Woodcraft Magazine - May 2014 USA.pdf

7/23/2019 Woodcraft Magazine - May 2014 USA.pdf

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Projects, Techniques, and Products

VOL. 10/NO. 58 APRIL/MAY 14

MORE PROJECTS

LESSONS & PRODUCTS

p.36Easy-to-Build

p

BONUS PROJECT:LAZY SUSAN p.


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Freuds Quadra-Cut4 Cutter Design

RouterBits

U.S. Patent No. 8,899,252

Whats The Secret To Flawless EdgeProfiles With NO REWORK?

FreudsExclusive4 CutterDesign

12

34

OtherRouter Bit2 CutterDesign

For A Smooth Sanded Finish...

...Without The Rework!

For more information visit: www.freudtools.com/Quadra-Cut Red router bits are a registered trademark of Freud America, Inc. (US) 1-800-472-7307

Beading Roman Ogee Classical Cove & BeadRound Over

Now Quadra-Cut 4 Cutter Design is Available in 1/4" Shanks

Ideal for Any Project thatRequires a Flawless Finish!

13 different 1/4" shankrouter bits available in the

most popular profiles.

SCAN WITH MOBILE DEVICE

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3 GREAT SHOWROOMS!

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TECHNICAL SERVICE:

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INCLUDES BOTH REGULAR

& DADO BLADE INSERTS

BEAUTIFUL

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Motor: 2 HP, 110V/2 20V, single-phase Precision-ground cast iron table

with wings measures: 27" x 40" Arbor: 58" Arbor speed: 3850 RPM Capacity: 318" @ 90, 2316" @ 45 Rip capacity: 30" R, 12" L Quick-change riving knife Cast iron trunnions Approx. shipping weight: 404 lbs.

10" HYBRID TABLE SAW

G0715PONLY$79500

Motor: 2 HP, 110V/220V, single-phase, TEFC Precision-ground cast

iron table size: 17" sq. Table tilt: 45 R, 10 L

Cutting capacity/throat: 1614" Max. cutting height: 1218" Blade size: 13112" L (18"1" W) Blade speeds: 1700 & 3500 FPM Quick-release blade tension lever Approx. shipping weight: 342 lbs.

INCLUDES DELUXE

EXTRUDED ALUMINUM

FENCE, MITER GAUGE &12" BLADE

MADE IN TAIWAN

MADE IN TAIWAN

30THANNIVERSARY SPECIAL EDITION

14" DELUXE BANDSAW

30THANNIVERSARY SPECIAL

EDITION 17" BANDSAW

177335

177335

Motor: 1 HP, 110V/220V,single-phase, TEFC

Precision-ground castiron table size: 14" sq.

Table tilt: 45 R, 10 L Cutting capacity/throat: 1312" Max. cutting height: 6" Blade size: 9212"9312" L (18"34" W) Blade speeds: 1800 & 3100 FPM Approx. shipping weight: 247 lbs.

ULTIMATE 14" BANDSAW

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252923

Motor: 1 HP, 110V/220V,single-phase, TEFC


Table tilt: 45 R, 15 L

Cutting capacity/throat: 13

1

2

" Max. cutting height: 6" Blade size: 9212"9312" L (18"34" W) Blade speeds: 1500 & 3200 FPM Deluxe heavy-duty stand Upper & lower ball bearing blade guides All ball bearing construction Includes 38 blade Approx. shipping weight: 196 lbs.

Motor: 2 HP, 110V/220V, single-phase, TEFC


Table tilt: 45 R, 10 L Cutting capacity/throat: 1614" Max. cutting height: 1218" Blade size: 13112" L (18"1" W) Blade speeds: 1700 & 3500 FPM Quick-release blade

tension lever Approx. shipping weight:

346 lbs.

INCLUDES DELUXE EXTRUDED

ALUMINUM FENCE, MITER GAUGE &12" BLADE

17" 2 HP HEAVY-DUTY BANDSAW

$99$99shipping

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$99$99shipping

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10" LEFT-TILTINGTABLE SAWSwith Riving Knife & Cast Iron Router Table

Motor: 3 HP or 5 HP, 240V, single-phase Precision-ground cast iron table size with wings: 27" x 48" Arbor: 58"

Cutting capacity: 255

8" R, 8" L Max. depth of cut: 3" @ 90, 218" @ 45 Approx. shipping weight:

550 lbs.

$150$150shipping

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10" LEFT-TILTINGCONTRACTOR-STYLE TABLE SAWwith Riving Knife

Motor: 112HP, 110V/220V, single-phase Precision-ground cast iron table with wings Table size: 2514" x 40" Arbor: 58" Arbor speed: 4000 RPM Capacity: 318" @ 90, 214" @ 45

Rip capacity: 30" R, 12" L Encapsulated blade for

improved dust collection Camlock fence with micro-adjust Fence scales on left and right side of blade Approx. shipping weight: 208 lbs.

SALE$65000

175370

FREE 10"

CARBIDE-

TIPPED BLADE

$99$99shipping

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$99$99shipping

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MADE IN TAIWAN

MADE IN TAIWAN

MADE IN TAIWAN

MADE IN TAIWAN

19" HEAVY-DUTY BANDSAWS

Motor: 3 HP, 220V,single-phase, TEFC

Precision-ground castiron table size: 2634" x 19"

Table tilt: 45 R, 5 L Cutting capacity/throat: 1814"

Max. cutting height: 12" Blade size: 143" L (18"114" W) Blade speeds: 1700 & 3500 FPM Approx. shipping weight: 460 lbs.

DELUXE RESAW FENCE

INCLUDED

252923

232857

ALSO AVAILABLEG0514XFW/ FOOT BRAKE

ONLY$142500

MADE IN TAIWAN

CAST

IRON

WHEELS

SALE$87500


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15" PLANERS

CHOOSE EITHER 3

KNIFE OR SPIRAL

CUTTERHEAD

MODEL

Motor: 3 HP, 220V, single-phase

Precision-ground cast irontable size: 15" x 20"

Min. stock thickness: 316" Min. stock length: 8" Max. cutting depth: 18" Feed rate: 16 & 30 FPM Cutterhead speed:

4800 RPM Approx. shipping

weight: 660 lbs.

SALE $109500

SALE $169500

SALE $255000$179$179

shipping

lower48states

20" PLANER Motor: 5 HP, 240V, single-phase Maximum cutting width: 20" Maximum cutting height: 8" Minimum stock thickness: 316" Minimum stock length: 8" Maximum cutting depth: 18"

Feed rate: 16 FPM and 20 FPM Cutterhead diameter: 318" Cutterhead speed: 4800 RPM Feed rolls: solid serrated steel Table size: 20" x 2534" (20" x 5512" with extension) Overall dimensions: 5512"L x 3912"W x 4578"H Approximate shipping weight: 920 lbs.

SALE $165000

Motor: 5 HP, 220V, single-phase Jointer table size: 14" x 5912" Cutterhead dia.: 318" Cutterhead speed: 5034 RPM Max. jointer depth of cut: 18" Max. width of cut: 12"

Planer feed rate: 22 FPM Max. planer depth of cut: 18" Max. planer cutting height: 8" Planer table size: 1214" x 2318" Approx. shipping weight: 704 lbs.

12" JOINTER/PLANER COMBINATION MACHINES

CARBIDE

INSERT SPIRAL

CUTTERHEAD!

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Motor: 112HP, 110V/220V, single-phase,TEFC, 3450 RPM

Air suction capacity: 775 CFM Static pressure at rated CFM: 1.80" Intake port: 6" with included

5" optional port Impeller: 1312" Height: 6512" Built-in remote

control switch Approx. shipping

weight: 210 lbs.

Motor: 2HP, 240V, single-phase, 3450 RPM Motor amp draw: 9 Amps Air suction capacity: 1550 CFM Static pressure: 11" 6" inlet has removable "Y" fitting with two 4" openings Impeller: 1234" balanced cast aluminum Bag capacity: 5.7 cubic feet Standard bag filtration: 2.5 micron Portable base size: 2114" x 3312" Bag size (dia. x depth): 1912" x 33" Powder coated paint Height with bags inflated: 78" Approx. shipping weight: 122 lbs.

CYCLONE DUST COLLECTOR 2 HP DUST COLLECTOR with Aluminum Impeller

PLEATED FILTER IS

PROTECTED BY A

STEEL CAGE

FULLY MOBILE

WITH BUILT-IN

CASTERS W1049 2 STAGE

CYCLONE SEPARATOR

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BEAUTIFUL

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COLOR!

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MADE IN ISO 9001 FACTORY!

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Motor: 3 HP, 220V, single-phase Precision-ground cast iron table Table size with extension: 27" x 7434" Arbor: 58" Arbor speed: 4300 RPM

Max. depth of cut: 318" @ 90, 2316" @ 45 Max. rip capacity: 50" R, 12" L Max. dado width: 1316" Approx. shipping weight: 557 lbs.

10" CABINET TABLE SAWwith Riving Knife & Extension Rails

FREE 10"CARBIDE-

TIPPED BLADE

WOOD

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3 HP LEESON

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shipping

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Motor: 3 HP, 220V, single-phase, TEFC Precision-ground cast iron

table size: 9" x 7212" Max. depth of cut: 18" Max. rabbeting depth: 12"

Cutterhead dia.: 3" Cutterhead speed: 4800 RPM Cuts per minute: 20,000 (G0656P),

21,400 (G0656PX) Approx. shipping weight: 500 lbs.

8" JOINTERS

CHOOSE EITHER

4 HSS KNIVES

OR SPIRAL

CUTTERHEAD

MODEL

FREE SAFETY

PUSH

BLOCKS

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4 KNIFE CUTTERHEAD

VARIABLE SPEED PLANER/

MOULDER

Motor: 2 HP, 240V, single-phase, 12 Amps Precision-ground cast iron table and wings Maximum cutting width: 7" Maximum planing height: 712"

Maximum planing depth:1

8" Maximum moulding depth: 34" Feed rate: Variable Cutterhead type: Square Knife size: 718" x 112" x 14" HSS Cutterhead speed: 7000 RPM 4" dust port Rubberized steel feed rollers Powder-coated paint Approx. shipping weight: 324 lbs.

177335

247570

MADE IN TAIWAN

POUND FOR

POUND,THE BEST 20"

PLANER VALUE

IN THE WORLD!

208624

208624

208624


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LAGUNATOOLS.COM

Go to your Woodcraft dealer today to see whyeveryone is raving about the 14|Twelve bandsaw

115 Volt, 1HP

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Laguna Ceramic Guides

World Class Fit & Finish

Worm Gear Rack & Pinion

Dynamically Balanced Cast Wheels

Enclosed Stand, Hi/Low Rip Fence

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$1,097


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PhotographingYour Projects

You dont have to be a professional

photographer to take great shots of

your work that you can share with the

world. All you need are some basic

equipment and a bit of know-how.

Drawer Slides:The Inside Story

See whats out there in the world of

mechanical drawer slides before designing

and building your next cabinet. Find help in

Clear OutdoorFinishes

Check our your choices, then

pick the best product to protect

your next project from Mother

Natures worst.

Well-StockedShop: Lubricants

Whether greasing the worm gear

tables of your shop machines to

the job in this diverse roundup.

Frame-and-Panel Finesse

Discover the secrets for

when making frame-and-panel

29

56

46

70

51

Contents: Tools & Techniques

6 woodcraftmagazine.com April/May 2014

Departments

Mailbox

Hot New Tools

JessEm Clear-CutPrecision StockGuide

WoodRiver Silicone

Wax Polish

Tips & Tricks

WoodSense: Ipe

08

14

12

18

74


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Shop-Smart

Getting organized in the shop requires

having a lot of specialty storage on hand

for everything that makes a shop work,

from tools to accessories. Once your shop

and time savings increase tenfold. In

mobile assembly cart on page 62. It offers

dedicated storage for glues, assembly

screws, dowels, biscuits, nailers, a drill,and a driver. Just roll it up to your

assembly table, and youre ready

to fasten project parts together.

This project, however, is just

the tip of the iceberg in what

we have to offer in the way of

workshop storage. Working

with Schiffer Publishing,

LTD, we gathered our very

best shop storage projects

from past issues of Woodcraft

Magazineand placed them in our

most recent book in the Home

Woodworker Series. Titled Home

Workshop Storage, this comprehensive volume includes 21

projects for storing anything from your favorite hand tools

and portable power tools to clamps, lumber, sheet goods, and a

variety of power tool accessories. There are even step-by-step

plans to make base and wall shop cabinets in three styles.

Home Workshop Storageis a companion to our previous book

introduced in 2013, Home Workshop Setup: the Complete Guide.

It is here where we provide woodworkers with a shop planner

So, if you love your shop and you want to love it more with

various improvements and dedicated shop storage, nows your

chance. Order either of the two books by visiting the Woodcraft store

nearest you or www.woodcraft.com , or by calling (800) 535-4482.


Cutting InApril/May 2014

Jim Harrold

Paul Anthony

Joe Hurst-Wajszczuk

Art Director Chad McClung Shayne Hiles

Sharon Hambrick

John Blackford, Ken Bur ton, Marlen Kemmet,

Tom Kreger, Bill Sands, Pete Stephano

Gary Lombard

Vic Lombard

Kim McLaughlin

Kiah Harpool

Circulation Specialists, Inc.

U.S. and Canada, $19.97 for one year

Single copy, $5.99

(800) 542-9125

4420 Emerson Avenue, Suite A

P.O. Box 7020

Parkersburg, WV 26102-7020

(800) 542-9125 Fax: (304) 420-9840

Email:

Online:

(ISSN:1553.2461, USPS 024-953)

is published in January, March, May, July, September

and November and printed in the United States by

Woodcraft Supply, LLC, 4420 Emerson Ave., Suite A,

Parkersburg, WV 26104. Tel: (304) 485-2647. Periodical

Postage paid at Parkersburg, WV, and at additional

mailing offices. Copyright 2014 by Woodcraft

Supply, LLC. All rights reserved. POSTMASTER: Send

address changes to , P.O. Box

7020, Parkersburg, WV 26102-7020. Canada Post:

Publications Mail Agreement #40612608

Canada Returns to be sent to Pitney Bowes,

P.O. Box 25542, London, ON N6C 6B2

Printed in the USA

Working wood can be dangerous.

your machine owners manuals, using appropriate

guards and safety devices, and maintaining all your

tools properly. Use adequate sight and hearing

may be removed from tools shown in photographs


11/84

RETAIL FRANCHISE OPPORTUNITIES

For more information call (855) 923-7326,visit www.woodcraftfranchise.com,

or email: [email protected]

When woodworking is your passion, and

owning your own business is your goal,

Woodcraft can help you take your skill

and expertise to the retail level.

When I think about owning myown business

I think of Woodcraft

Carve a niche for yourself in woodworking with aWoodcraft retail store. It is difficult to overstate the

importance of a brand name with a reputation for

quality. The Woodcraft name is a tremendous asset.

If you are a woodworker, you already know what

we mean.

Now, after more than 80 years, the Woodcraft name

is even more recognizable than at any other time in

our history. Are you seriously looking for a franchise

opportunity? Are you passionate about woodwork-

ing? Would you like to consider opening a store in

your area?

Contact us today to find out how to

open the door to your Woodcraft

Retail Store!

We're building a business that transcends generations.

Having a Woodcraft franchise has helped us grow as a

family while preparing our next generation for success.

David & Aaron SappNashville, TN Franchise Owners

Openthedoor

toyourown

business!

F14WD05P

Woodcraft Franchise, LLC1177 Rosemar Road, P.O. Box 245Parkersburg, WV 26102-0245


12/84


Robert Sorby,

Athol Road, Sheffield S8 0PA, England.

Tel: 44+ 114 225 0700

Fax: 44+ 114 225 0710

E-mail: [email protected]

Web site: www.robert-sorby.co.uk

P r o u d l y m a d e i n S h e f f i e l d , E n g l a n d

The Robert Sorby

TurnMaster is the first tool in

the world to combine three

cutting edge technologies in

one flexible tool.

Cutters are available in

tungsten carbide, titanium

nitride (TiN) and high speed

steel (HSS) providing

unsurpassed range to

woodturners at every level.

a cut above

Robert Sorby

Benefits: All cutters interchangeable with one tool

Unique* indexable cutting head for three scraping options

Interchangeable cutter head no need to buy whole new tool

Flat underside for stability

High tensile torx screw / key for quick cutter release

*Patent pending

CARBIDE: TITANIUM: HSS

MYCHOICEOF

SHARPENER.

With Tormek, I can nally teach

students to efciently sharpen

their tools. Anyone can learn

how to achieve a superb

cutting edge in 10 seconds!

Fantastic system.

Professional WoodturnerCounty Carlow, Ireland

See the video from Glenns workshop atwww.tormek.com!


13/84

April/May 2014 woodcraftmagazine.com 11

913-377-2444

www.BigGatorTools.com

V-DrillGuides

LifetimeWarranty

Drill Straight - Every Time!

Can be used on at surfaces,round parts and corners.

This commercial-quality blade is idealfor rip and cross cutting two-sidedplywood, whether finished or un-finished. It is also perfect for crosscutting solid woods. In fact, theresno comparable blade on the markettoday.

The Ply Veneer Worker (PVW) uses

the same high-precision technologythats behind our popular WoodworkerII blade. Designed for cutting woodproducts only

The PVWs list price is $23 lessthan our Duraline Hi-A/T.

It delivers flawless cuts withoutsplintering or fuzz. You never haveto worry about chip-outs on top orbottom surfaces. No scoring blade isneeded.

It lasts up to 300% longer betweensharpenings. The PVW is made ofsuper-strong C-4 micrograin carbidefor extra durability. Like other For-rest blades, it ishand-straightenedtoensure perfect flatness and has a siderunout of +/- .001.

The PVW is superbly engineered. It

features a 10 hook, 70 teeth, and ahigh alternate top bevel grind. Youcan count on this exceptional productto give you vibration-free performanceand long life.

All Forrest blades, including the newPVW, aremade in the U.S.A.and havea 30-day, money-back guarantee. Soorder today from your Forrest dealer orretailer, by going on-line, or by callingus directly.

www.ForrestBlades.com1-800-733-7111(In NJ, call 973-473-5236) 2014 Forrest Manufacturing Code WC

NEW FROM FORREST!

Ply Veneer Worker BladeDesigned Specifically for Cutting Plywood and Plywood Veneers


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Mailbox

Regarding the Light Rightstory in the Feb/March 2014issue, I would like to add thathalogen bulbs should not betouched by bare human hands.The oil on your skin will leavea residue on the bulb causing

a hot spot. Over time, this willreduce the bulbs lifespan.The solution: when changinga halogen bulb, wear gloves,or grab it with a clean cloth.Andy Barton,Camarillo, California

Back in the Oct/Nov 2008

issue, you featured apendulum baby cradle. Atthe time my daughter wasstill in college, but I thoughtthe cradle was so nice Ishould cut the plan out andsave it for someday. Well,that someday has come,and I wanted to share with It was a wonderful design

that resulted in a familyheirloom destined tooutlive me for generations.Thank you for giving methe plan for that legacy.Joe Snyder,Louisa, Virginia

Long liveyour lightbulbs

A real keeper

Go against thegrain and findyour groove

Let your passion for wood lead you into

a new business with Furniture Medic, the

worlds largest furniture and wood repair

and restoration franchise.

Extensive training Low initial investment Financing available

800-230-2360furnituremedicfranchise.com

Own your own business

2013 Furniture Medic Limited Partnership. All rights reserved.


15/84


Ive always used free wood I

picked up from some place for

projects. Recently, I bought twospecial pieces of wood that were

coated with wax. How do I deal

with removing the wax? I saw

one suggestion about sanding it

off. Simple enough, but do you

have any other suggestions?

Ken Earle, San Carlos, California

Ken, freshly-sawn exotic

hardwoodssuch as ebony and

rosewoodtypically have moisturelevels that range anywhere from

14% to 35% (compared to the

6% to 8% moisture content of

kiln-dried hardwood). Wax is a

simple means of slowing down

the drying process after rough

milling and during shipping to

prevent splitting and checking.

Wax can affect glues and

skin deep. If youre dealing with a

turning blank, the most effective

way to remove the wax is to shave

it off at the lathe. If youre using

the board for some other type of

project, simply saw or plane off

the coating. (To save wood, youcan scrape off the wax with a card

scraper or hand plane it to expose

bare wood.) Some woodworkers

also use acetone to wipe away

any remaining wax residue.

Jim Harrold, editor-in-chief

Chime inHave comments about the

readers?

Magazine, PO Box 7020,

Parkersburg, WV 26102.

Errata errors

visit

Wax

From the editors of

Woodcraft Magazine

96pages

Everything you need to

develop an organized and

highly efficient workshop.

Call today 1-800-225-1153or go online at

www.woodcraft.com


16/84

14 woodcraftmagazine.com April/May 2014 JessEm photo: Manufacturer; DrillBlock photo: Larry Hamel-Lambert

Hot New Tools

By necessity, most woodworkers own an

arsenal of guards and featherboards for their

router tables. The reason for such sizeable

some compromise. Better control often means

JessEms latest accessory combines safety

and control while providing a clear view of your

14" T-slot, the one-way feed rollers mount at a

5 inward angle so that they hold stock down

against the table and pull it toward the fence as

its fed past the bit. The rollers have a 234" total

916" below the center of the horizontal T-slot

in your fence. Considering its ability to assist

with everything from grooves, to dadoes, toraised panels, once you attach the jig to your

fence, you might wind up keeping it there.

#158903,

Tester: Peter Collins

router tables

JessEm Clear-Cut

Precision Stock Guide

For those spring and summer

projects that are too big to schlep

to the drill press, heres a jig that

can help you drill perpendicular

drill holes precisely where

in the palm of your hand. This

(ranging in size from 18to 12")

housed within an ergonomic

base thats designed to grip onto

stock. To use, simply line up the

centering lines on the sides of

the guide with the crosshairs on

your stock, hold the jig, and drill .

#158941,

Tester: Peter Collins

bulls-eye


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Hot New Tools

For those who burn through

rolls of kraft paper when gluing

reusable solution. Flexible and

564

pads and installed

Tester: Kent Harpool

WoodRiver Silicone Bench Mats

HOLEY GALAHAD

A Window To Your Work

Round Profile / Flat Profile

Coarse, Medium, Fine Grits

Durable Tungsten Carbide

Vision Is EverythingLANCELOT

Cuts In Any Direction

22 Tooth / 14 Tooth

Three Center Hole Sizes

Tandem Disc Combos

Fits 41/2Angle Grinders

800-942-1300 katools.com

JeffroUitto.com


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April/May 2014 17

Those who use wax on their hand

tools and machine tables appreciate

the way that the coating reduces

friction but accept the fact that

wax doesnt do much to stave off

rust. ProtecTool offers the same

slip but also contains corrosion

inhibitors that provide an extra

chemical barrier against corrosion.

Due to its creamy consistency,the product goes on like other

waxes; simply wipe it on, wait,

then buff. According to the manufacturer, the

wax hardens upon exposure to air to create

by-side tests, tools treated with ProtecTool

better than those treated with regular wax.

#158701,Tester: Kent Harpool

Bora ProtecTool, 100ml

High Performance

American Quality

Simple to Use

Turning Tools | Hollowing Tools | Chucks | Accessories

S L TSnap- Lock

TM

THEWOODTURNING SYSTEM

The worlds only chuck

with quick change jawsand Zoom Ring

Toll-Free: (866) 963-0294 | See the new video atEasyWoodTools.com

Exclusive Features:Now FREE with every Easy Chuck purchase

EASY CHUCKING SCREWThe worlds first double-ended chucking screw

Easy Chucking Screw Patent Pending


20/84


Tips & Tricks

TOPTIP

Share a Slick Tip.Win Cash or a Prize!Heres your chance to help someone become a

Top Tipwill receive a

. Runners-up will receive

for an non-illustrated

one. Winning entries become the property of

. Send your original ideas to:

Tips & Tricks,

oremail

.

Important:Please include

your phone number,

as an editor will need

to call you if your

Locating light precisely where its needed

at the bench makes doing detail work

much easier, whether its laying out joints,

cutting dovetails, or simply reading wood

grain. This sliding bracket lets me position

my articulating-arm lamp anywhere

along the length of my workbench. The

bracket was designed to grip the edge

of a recessed tool tray, but it can be

the vertical block a tad longer than the

height of your benchs back rail to ensure

and bottom blocks on the tablesaw, initially

work with stock thats oversized in length

for safety. Alternatively, create the lipped

areas by gluing on separate strips of wood.

Dont glue the bottom block as youll want to

remove the bracket when necessary, such as

when laying large panels on your benchtop.

Andy Rae, Asheville, North Carolina

Lip catches top sideof bench tray.

Lip catchesunderside ofbench tray.

Trim-head screw

Drill hofor lamstem.

14-20 knob

14-20 hangerbolt

34"

212"

6"

34"

12"


21/84


Picture this jigHave you ever pulled out a jig that you havent

used in a while and realized that you dont entirely

remember how to set it up or use it? Me, too. To

prevent that, Ive added a new tool to my shopan

inexpensive digital camera. After setting up a

jig and any attendant tools, I take a few

relevant snapshots, print them out, and

tape them to the jig and/or stash the images

in a jig setup folder for future reference.

This approach works well as long as I can

remember where I keep the camera.

Robert Lopez, Los Angeles, California

Shop-made Over the years, I have replaced many of the thin

stock blades in my vintage hand planes withmodern aftermarket blades. Looking for a way to

put an old blade to good use, I combined it with a

handy tool for various trimming chores and for

removing dried glue at intersecting project parts.

To make a plane like this, begin with a block of

wood about 1" thick, exactly as wide as the blade,

and about 12" shorter. Bevel the front half of the

block down to about 38" for a good grip, and ease

the edges for comfort. Shape a bit of hardwood to

plug in place to the underside of the body, and then

epoxying a 12

the surface of the block to hold the blade in place.

Alejandro Balbis, Longueuil, Quebec

Plane body

12 magnet

Glue blade slot

Stock block

The American Woodshopwith Scott & Suzy Phillips

Season 21 -American OriginalsFreeform Designs& Hand Skill Solutions

Presented by - WBGUPublic TelevisionWBGU Public Television presents13 PBS TV shows of The AmericanWoodshop American Originals.

Season 21 shares woodworking tipsfor every skill level. Techniques include:turning, joinery, tool tune-ups, making jigs,bench building, and furnituremaking!Get your tools out!

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The American WoodshopIs Sponsored By:Woodcraft Supply, Kreg Tool Company,

Easy Wood Tools & Gorilla Glue 2014 Sylvan Tool Works, Inc. All Rights Reserved


22/84


Tips & Tricks

Panel-raising guardSuccess at raising panels on the router

The two router table accessories that

throughout the cuts, ensuring a smooth

38

12

The

38

Paul Anthony, senior editor

Featherboard

guard extends outover the bit in frontof the featherboard.


23/84


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24/84


For a recent project, I needed to

drill accurately centered holes

into some wooden balls I had

purchased, so I came up with

this jig to hold them securely on

the drill press. To make the jig,

board from a short piece of stock

whose thickness approaches the

radius of the ball to be drilled.

Cut a 14" slot in it, and screw it to

a baseboard thats long enough

to span your drill press table.

Then drill a hole through the

upper board using a holesaw.

(I used a Vermont American

#18401 adjustable-diameter

holesaw, which allows slight

upsizing to accommodate the

typical variance of wooden balls

from their nominal diameters.)

drill press with a standard twist

bit whose diameter matches

that of your holesaws pilot bit.

Lower the bit into the pilot hole

in the baseboard to center the

jig under the drill chuck. After

clamping the baseboard to the

table in this position, switch out

the bit with the one youll use

to drill the ball, and pinch a ball

in the jig by clamping across

the slot. Now youre ready to

drill a perfectly centered hole.

John Hutchinson, Delaware, Ohio

Ball-drilling jig

Baseboard

Tips &


25/84


The perfect way to cut

logs the traditional way.

The Lynx saw range

Available at Woodcraft

Tel: +44 114 2725387


26/84


This frame, with its lapjoint construction, features

several signature elements

from the Arts & Crafts era.

They include the overhanging

beveled cap, tapered stiles,

decorative square buttons,

and quartersawn white oak.

Sized for a 57"photo or pieceof art, you can build it to stand

on its own or hang on a wall.

Start with theframe members1 Cut the stiles (A), bottomrail (B), and top rail (C) to the

sizes listed in the Cut List.

2 Lay out the 14"-deep rabbetsand dadoes on the back face

of each stile (A), using the

dimensions in Figure 1. Install

a dado set in your tablesaw,

along with a miter gauge,

auxiliary fence, and stop. Raise

the dado set 14", and make a test

cut in 34"-thick scrap to verify

the depth. Now, cut rabbets

and dadoes in the stiles, setting

the stop as needed. Cut the

mating 14"-deep rabbets on

the front faces of the top and

lap joints. The back surfaces

of the mating parts should be

3 Glue and clamp therails (B, C) to the stiles (A),

checking for square. Wipe off

any glue squeeze-out with

a clean, moistened rag.

Arts & CraftsPicture FrameKeep a loved one close at handwith this wall hanging or stand.

By Marlen Kemmet

Overall dimensions: 838"w 178"d 1038"h


27/84


28/84

6 Referring to Figure 1, markthe tapered outside edges of the

frame, and cut the taper using

a bandsaw. Cut just outside

the line, and then sand to the

line to remove saw marks.

Add the cap, support,

1 At the tablesaw, cut a 34"-thickoak workpiece to 6 958"

for the cap (D). Install a

zero-clearance insert, and

prepare it for a 30 cut. With the

blade raised and angled at 30

from vertical, slide the fence

over 14" from it. Make Cut 1

and Cut 2,shown in Figure 2,

safety. Tilt the blade to vertical,

adjust the fence 17

8" from it, andrip the cap to width (Cut 3).

2 Cut a 18"-thick hardboard

the rabbeted opening.

3 Drill four 116"pilot holes in theback of the frame for mounting

the turn buttons around the

rabbeted opening. (I located

the holes 38" from the rabbet.)

4 Sand the frame (A/B/C)

and cap (D) through 220 grit.Center, glue, and clamp the cap

to the top edge of the frame

5 To use the frame for tabletopdisplay, cut the support (E). Start

with a 126 612" workpiece for

safety. Install a zero-clearance

insert, and angle your tablesaw

blade 30 from vertical. Adjust


Use a 14

B

Figure 2:

(Begin w/34 6 958

Cut 1:Chamferedge at 30.

Cut 2:Bevel-rip

14"

Cut 2:Chamfer edge at 30.

Cut 3:Rip cap to width.

Cut 1:Chamferends at 30. Cut 3:Miter-

Cap

18"

(Begin w/1 6 61


29/84

the fence 18" from the blade.

With the workpiece on edge and

pushblock to chamfer the

support (Cut 1in Figure 2).

Angle the blade 20 from vertical.

Move the fence 214" from it, and,

table, bevel-rip the supports

opposite edge (Cut 2). (See

Side Viewin

Figure 1.) Miter-cut the ends

of the support at 10 (Cut 3).

6 Carefully locate and gluethe support (E) in place so the

frame leans down at 20. (I used

masking tape to hold the piece in

place.) For a wall-mounted frame,

fasten in place a sawtooth picture

Center it on the top rail (C).

7 Finish-sand and stain theframe. (I used General Finishes

Black Cherry thinned 30% with

water. I then applied three coats

of Watco Lacquer, Satin, Spray.)

8 To create the buttons (G), ripa strip of walnut to 14148".

ends in the square mortises.

Lightly bevel-sand four 45

chamfers on the ends of the

strip, as shown in Photo C.

9 Crosscut a 12"-long buttonfrom each end of the strip, and

repeat for all six buttons. (I used

the Olson 35-231 saw and mini-

miter box set, but any miter box

up a stop for consistent button

lengths.) Glue the buttons in

place. The buttons are sized

to stand proud of the frame

surface 18". Add the turn buttons

to the back of the frame. Insert

the glass, picture, and back.


Picture Frame Cut ListPart Thickness Width Length Qty. Matl

A* 3

4" 2" 95

8" 2 QWOB* 12" 112" 834" 1 QWO

C Top rail 12" 114" 838" 1 QWO

D* Cap 34" 178" 958" 1 QWO

E* Support 12" 218" 6" 1 QWO

F Back 18" 512" 712" 1 HBD

G* 14" 14" 12" 6 W

Materials:QWO = Quartersawn White Oak, HDB = Hardboard, W = Walnut

Hardware/Supplies:(1) Sawtooth picture frame hanger, picture frame glass.

Convenience-PLUS

BUYING GUIDE1. 12" SH, 12" CL

#828705 $57.47

2. #140347 $21.99

3. 34" Length, 10/pkg. #146010 $5.29

4. General Finishes Wood Stain, Water Based,

#818820 $11.49

5. #146950 $9.50

woodcraft.com

C

About Our Author

A founding member of the

San Diego Woodworking

career in woodworking and

He likes building furniture and

home accents in the Greene


30/84

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31/84


Part of the satisfaction ofworking wood is showing off

your projects. In this Internet

age of social media, that often

means photographing your work

and posting it on Facebook,

Google Plus, Flickr, or your own

photo blog. If youre an aspiring

professional, good photos can

also serve as exhibit entries or

strong portfolio material to help

sell your work. So if you count

a camera among your tools,

why not put it to its best use?

If youve felt that your photos

dont measure up to the quality

of your woodworking, or if you

have even avoided the attempt

entirely, take heart. Good

photos result from suitable

lighting and composition

more than costly gear.

Armed with your camera,

some relatively inexpensive

lighting equipment, and the

here, you can produce photos

that do your projects proud.

The investment? Well, aside from

your camera, a basic selection

of decent gear can be aquired

respectable shop machine. You

can get started for less, as well

discuss, but you have to invest

a few bucks to get good shots.

A rudimentary starter setup

Photographing

Your ProjectsShow your work at its best.By John Blackford and Paul Anthony


32/84


The Necessary Gear

Camera and tripodYou can use any camera to shoot

your work, ranging from a DSLR

like the one shown in Photo A,

enormous selection of strobe

units (Photo B

Photo C

Hot lightingusing bulbs as

strong as 500 wattsis less

Photo D

much light, those with at least

(Photo E

Photo C

A

D

B

E

C

Use a camera tripod for steady


33/84

Photos: John Blackford, Paul Anthony April/May 2014 woodcraftmagazine.com 31

For best results, place a light on

each side of the camera, aiming

each toward the project at about

90 to the other light. Initially,

set one strobe twice as bright

as the other. (If using hot lights,

use a 250-watt bulb in one

light and a 500-watt bulb in the

other.) This will create enough

shadow to give the project

some depth while avoiding

You can move the lights

around and adjust brightness

to emphasize important details

such as joinery in the workor

illuminate either the background

or areas that are too dark. Other

options include combining a

single light with secondary

illumination bounced off a white

Another reason to use

avoid the harsh, unattractive

shadows produced by a very

small light source such as the

bulb itself. By bouncing the

(See photo, page 32), shooting

through a white translucent

umbrella, or using a soft box,

you effectively increase the size

of the light source and soften

shadows in the process. A soft

box holds the lamp within dark

material and faced with diffusion

fabric. (See photos above.)

Note that the size of a light is

relative to its distance from the

subject. Just as moving a light

forward boosts illumination,

it also increases the effective

size of the light. Use this to

your advantage. For example,

to alleviate harsh shadows,

try moving the lights closer

even a small light can cast

soft shadows when close in.

consists of a single light aided by

Two lights plus a many challengingarrangements the two main lights

fail to reach.

The most basic setupconsists of a single light the project. This has limited

One of the bestsetups uses two and intensityallows greater

One light and aboard

Two lights and aboard

One light

Two lights

Project

Project

Project

Project

Camera

Camera

Camera

Camera

Umbrella

UmbrellaUmbrella

Umbrella

Umbrella Umbrella

Posterboard

Posterboard


34/84


At an aperture of f4, the depth of

which you may or may not want.

and light control

The size of the lens opening(the aperture) affects both

control. Smaller apertures

(higher numbers) produce

36" from a 50mm lens at f4 is

1.89", while at f11 its 5.38".

admits twice as much light.

Light size affects the type of

shadow. A small light produces

sharp shadows and an abrupt

transition from light to dark.

(See the photo below left).

A larger light produces soft

shadows and a smoother

transition (below right).

As shown in the diagram at

equal to the square of its

distance; therefore, doubling the

distance yields only a quarter

of the light (two f-stops).

in 116

Lamp

Proper f22 f11 f2.8f16 f8 f5.6 f4

2' (Y)

(X)

(14X)

(116X)

4' (2Y)

8' (4Y)


35/84


Underexposure.The photo

White balanceAccurately capturing in photos

the warm, inviting colors of the

woods you use in your projects

can be a challenge. When

shooting JPEG images, setting

your camera's white balance for

whatever light youre using (such

work well enough. When shooting

RAW format (which captures all

color adjustments must be made

during computer processing

afterward. That's because the

camera's white balance settings

are bypassed in RAW format.

Tip Alert

ExposureExposure refers to the amount

of light the camera records. A

properly exposed photowhich

will yield similar tones to the

subjectresults from capturing

the correct amount of light. You

can adjust exposure by changing

the intensity of your lights, their

distance from the project, the

or the size of the aperture. With

hot lights, you can also vary the

Proper Exposure.

Overexposure.


36/84


Successful photography depends

on following an organized

approacheven though you

may end up varying the

plan as you proceed. Follow

these general guidelines to

produce a nicely composed,

well-exposed photo, such as

the one of this small table.

1Pull your seamless paper downonto your staging to create a

very gradual roll-off at its rear

edge. Place your project near the

center and well away from the

paper wall. Then position the

piece and camera in tandem for

best composition. In the case of

a rectilinear piece like this table,

angle it to indicate its depth, and

raise the camera enough to show

the table top without featuring it.

2Position the main light toilluminate the broadest forward

surface of the project, and

shadows cast by the main light.

3Adjust the main light toilluminate the main surfaces

without washing out detail. If

necessary, reposition it to create

on the bead at the bottom of this

light to between half and three-

quarters of the main's intensity.

4Take a test shot with thecamera set at f8 and ISO 100 to

inset in Photo Aindicates proper

exposure. But we can do better.

(The widest, tallest section of

the histogram represents the

most prominent visual data.) If

the image is too dark, open the

camera aperture one stop (from

f8 to f5.6) to double the amount

of light recorded. If the image is

too light, close the aperture one

stop to f11. As you change the

Use the cameras

histogram to ensure

histogram is located center-right.

yielding a clear, well-lit photo

match in size in both eyes.

Check the focus by zooming in

on your cameras LCD screen to

near and far edges. If blurry, use

smaller f-stops such as f11 or f16.

A B


37/84

aperture, the peak portion of the

histogram will shift left or right.

Adjust exposure to shift the bulk

of the histogram about two-thirds

to the right without any clipping

against the edges. When using

strobes, shutter speed changes

won't help; just leave the shutter

set to the synchronization speed

shown in your camera manual.

5Initially focus about one-thirdof the way into the depth of your

project. Placing the center point

of your autofocus system on

that spot will generally produce

the best overall sharpness.

After taking a shot, zoom in on

the spot using the LCD panel

if necessary. Check the front

and back edges of the table for

sharpness (see the photo at far

left, opposite), and reduce the

aperture (to a higher number) if

6Take another test shot, andtweak the light balance, focus,

and composition as needed. If

shadows crawl up the vertical

part of the background, do

one of the following: Raise the

lights, move the project closer

light to wash out the shadow.

7If the project itself stillhas undesirably dim areas,

however necessary to bounce

light into those spaces.

8At this point, you should beprett y close to home. Take one

it for focus, composition,

proper exposure, and any

odd shadows or highlights

that may need correction. (To

really scrutinize the picture,

temporarily slip the memory

card into a computer for

viewing on a larger screen.)

Photo B showsthe completed

photograph of our example. The

table is attractively positioned,

in focus, accurately exposed,

and well lit with nice contrast

and no undesirable shadows

or distracting elements.


Detail Shots

About Our Authors

Sources


38/84


Family members and friendswill enjoy the good times aroundthis accommodating outdoor

project that seats up to eight

happy diners. Theres nothing

tricky about the construction.

Plugged exterior-grade screws

and waterproof glue bond the

2-by parts together, guaranteeing

years of use. A hole at the

tabletops center allows you

to insert an umbrella to shield

diners from intense sunlight.

The chevron-shaped benches

attached to the cross supports

allow for easy-access seating,

unlike standard picnic table

designs, which force you to climb

over the seats to sit down. For

plans for the complementary

lazy Susan, see page 44.

Note:To protect against rot

and insects, I used western

red cedar. Other outdoor wood

choices include redwood, cypress,

and pressure-treated pine.

OctagonalPicnic Table

By Bill Sands

Overall dimensions: 9134"w 29"h


39/84


Figure 1:

Notch Detail

Figure 2:

#8 212"ext. screw

#8 212" ext.

#8 3" ext. screw

#8 3" ext. screws

#8 3" ext. screws

#8 3" ext. screw

412"

134"

Notch (to match

Align leg to frontedge of base.

6712

6712

671

2

6712

671

2

6712

20"

6"

60

60

45 4545 45

ends at 67

112 rounded over

holes 34" infrom edges.

Round over edge

#20 biscuits

38

Round over edge.

6712


40/84


Build the cross framesNote: Before building, take aminute to inspect your stock

and select the best boards for

each section. Any chips, knots,

or bad spots should be kept

on the underside faces or cut

out when laying out parts. Any

crowned faces should face up

once fastened in place to better

shed water. The most visible

parts, or those that will be in

contact with arms and legs, must

be smooth and splinter free.

1 Now, working with eitherdimensional lumber or thicker

stock that you joint and planeto the part thicknesses in the

Cut List, crosscut the left and

right seat frame parts (A) and

left and right tabletop frame

parts (B) to length. Also, cut

the eight spacers (C) to size.

(See Figure 1for reference.)

2 Lay out the centered notcheson both faces of the seat frame

parts (A) and tabletop frame parts

(B), where shown in the Detail

in Figure 1. (Here, measure

the thickness of the combined

frame parts and spacer [C]

when sandwiched together for

the notch widths. The mating

the shoulder cuts as shown in

Photo A. Then make multiple cuts

between the shoulder cuts to the

baseline of the notch. Cut out the

waste with a chisel and mallet.

Repeat for the other notches.

3 At the mitersaw, bevel-cutthe ends of the left and right

seat frame parts (A) and left

and right tabletop frame parts

(B) at 6712, referring to Figure 1

for the bevel orientations.

4 as a workbench, group the left

and right frame parts (A) and the

left and right frame parts (B),

Use a backsaw to cut the notch shoulders, guiding

A B

C

Tip Alert

As seen in Photo C, I cut a

drilled two 116

didnt contact each other.

Base line


41/84


orienting each group with theirnotches up. Align the part ends,

and clamp them together and

to the workbench. Clean up the

notches, as shown in Photo B.

5 On a level surface, test-assemble the interlocking seat

(A) and table (B) cross frames,

in Figure 2and as shown

in Photo C. Disassemble.

6Use exterior glue in all of the

joints. Reassemble the frame

parts. Mark the screw-hole

locations, and drill counterbored

pilot holes. Starting at the mating

notch joints, drive four exterior-

grade 3" screws vertically to join

the seat and table frame pieces (A

and B). Drive 3" screws through

the frame sides and into spacers

(C). Repeat for all spacer joints.

Cut the parts andassemble the seat bases1 Using 112"-thick 512"-wide stock, cut the table legs

(D), seat bases (E), and seat

legs (F) to length and at the

angles shown inFigure 2.

2 Place a seat leg (F) on a tableleg (D) aligning the bottom ends

using a backstop, as shown in

Photo D.Strike a reference line

on the table leg. This will comeinto play in Step 4and again

when attaching the seat cross

frame later. Similarly, strike lines

on the remaining legs. Continue

the lines across the edges and

opposite faces of the table legs.

3 As shown in Photo E, fastena seat base (E) to two seat legs

(F) using three 3" screws per

leg driven into counterbored

holes. Note that the seat legs

of the seat bases, as shown

in Figure 1. Repeat for all

four seat base assemblies.

4 Make a pair of angledseat base spacers, as shown inFigure 2. Next, clamp a table

leg (D) in your bench vise with

the top end down, aligning the

reference lines with the surface

of your benchtop. Now, using the

spacers, fasten a seat base/seat

legs assembly (E/F) to the bottom

end of the leg with 3" screws and

exterior glue, as shown in Photo F.

Mark and counterbore three

centered holes in the joining

parts and drive the screws.

Repeat to make the remaining

three base assemblies (D/E/F).

D E

F

to bench


42/84

5 Cut eight seat cleats (G) to size,and glue and screw them with212" screws to the inside faces of

the seat legs (F). Extend them 78"

beyond the outside edges of the

legs, and make their top edges

Add the base assembliesto the seat cross frames1 Strike lines 1334" to strikein from the ends across the

top edges of the seat cross

frames assembly (A/C). This

line tells where the table legs

(F) intersect the top edges of

the seat frames assembly.

2 Clamp a pair of scrapalignment stops along the top ofthe reference lines on the sides

of the base assembly (D/E/F/G)

in place between the seat frames

(A), aligning the reference lines

and resting the stops on the

top edges of the frames. Next,

mark the screw locations on the

outside face of one seat frame.

(As before, I made and used a

plywood marking jig for this.)

Slide the base assembly out of the

way, and apply glue in the base

assembly/seat frames mating

area, as shown in Photo G.

3 Slide the base assembly (D/E/F/G) into place, as shown inPhoto H. Once all the key parts

align, drill counterbored holes

for 3" screws. Repeat the process

for attaching the remaining

base assemblies to the seat

frames cross assembly (A/C).

Form the tabletopperimeter frames

1Set up your mitersaw to

2212 (once cut, the miter angle

of the board will be 6712).

Verify the angle with a test

cut. Using a stop to establish

consistent lengths, angle-cut the

top perimeter boards (H) and

the bottom perimeter boards

(I) to length. See Figure 2.

2 Using a square, or with a shop-made marking jig as shown in

Figure 3and Photo I,mark the

biscuit locations on the ends of

the perimeter boards (H, I). Note:

All top perimeter boards receive

biscuit slots; only the mating

ends of the bottom perimeter

board pairs receive slots.

3 Adhere a 38"-thick spacer toyour biscuit jointerwith double-

faced tape, and cut biscuit

slots that are centered on the

thickness of the top and bottom


Set aside the base assembly with its alignment

stops while spreading glue on the hard-to-

placing a straightedge across the top ends of the

seat legs and top edges of the seat frames.

G H

Figure 3: Biscuit Slot Marking Jig

Alignment stop

Alignment sto

Fence58 58 10"glued or screwed in place

Base18 314 10"


43/84


perimeter boards (H, I). Alignthe centerline of the tool with

the marks made in Step 2. Cut

the slots, as shown in Photo J.

4 Build the perimeter framesassembly jig in Figure 4using

scrap plywood and solid stock.

5 Drill pocket holes onthe bottom faces of the top

perimeter boards (H) at the

ends to fortify the biscuit joints

and to snug up the pieces during

assembly. Position the holes at

least 34" in from the edges.Be

sure the hole locations do not

cause the screws to exit the

edges of the perimeter boards.

surface, apply glue in the slots,

insert the biscuits, and place

two top perimeter pieces bottom

faces up in the assembly jig.

Drive the pocket screws to snug

the joint. Move the assembly

and fasten another perimeter

board, as shown in Photo K. Fit

a spacer under the cantileveredend of the assembly to keep

it level. Add a fourth board to

make one-half of the octagonal

top perimeter frame. Build the

other half. Let the glue set up.

6 Drill two pocket holes on thebottom faces of the non-mating

ends of the bottom perimeter

boards making up the four

chevron-like frame sets. Use

the assembly jig to glue up the

sets. Set the four frame sets

aside to let the glue cure.

7 Next, glue and screw the twohalf frames together to make

the octagonal top perimeterframe. (I used a strap clamp

to help tighten one half frame

against the other.) After the

glue sets up, remove the strap.

1 With the octagonal perimeterframe (H) top face down on a

large assembly surface, place the

tabletop cross frames assembly

(B/C) on the octagons bottom

face. Insert and clamp scrap

112"-thick leg spacers between

the tabletop frame parts to

Hold the biscuit marking jig fence along the

outside edge of the perimeter boards to mark

consistent biscuit slot centers with a pencil.

place, align the biscuit joiner centerline with

the mark, and plunge-cut the slot.

clamped to its fence, glue and screw the top perimeter boards end to end.

I J

K

packing tape or coat of wax

to the jig to keep the parts

Biscuit slotmarking jig

12" thick spacer

Perimeter frames

38" thick spacer

Centered slot


44/84


Photo L

2

Photo M 1

Cut and install the

tabletop boards1

Cut List Figure 2

2

38

3

4

5

1

Add the base and seats1

Figure 4: Perimeter Frames Assembly Jig

Check the distance from the octagons corners to

the ends of the tabletop cross frames to center

top cross frames assembly and octagon.

L M

112"-thickleg spacer

Leg spacer

Fence112 112 1534"

#8 12

Base12 13 30"

2212


45/84


the center of the tabletop cross

frames opening on the bottom

face of the center tabletop

board (L). Drill a small pilot hole

through the board. Next, saw a

112 112 36" piece of scrap.

2 Apply glue on the inside faces

of the ends of the table frames(B/C). Carefully lift the base

assembly, turn it upside down,

the (B) members of table

frames. Insert the 112"-square

piece into the center openings

of the frames to align the seat

frames over the table frames.

Remove the 112" piece. Now,

counterbore holes, and drive 3"

screws to secure the base to thetabletop, as shown in Photo N.

3 octagonal picnic table right side

Using a 112

the umbrella hole, guiding on the

pilot hole drilled in Step1.

Lay out the seat parts (M, N)

to the sizes in the Cut List

and as shown in Figure 2. Cut

same spacing for the tabletop

boards, fasten the seat parts

G), using glue and 212" screws

in counterbored holes.

4 Cut plugs from cedar scrap.Then, glue the plugs in place

to cover up the hardware.

plane or sand them even.

5 Sand the octagonal picnic

table to 180 grit. Using a

14"-radius round-over bit in a

handheld router, round over the

umbrella opening and all exposed

seat and table edges. Wipe the

sprayed on Sikkens Cetol SRD.)

Drill counterbored pilot holes through the table frames and into

N

Octagonal Picnic Table Cut List

Part Thickness Width Length Qty. Matl

A 112" 312" 88316" 4 C

B 112" 312" 48" 4 C

C Frame spacers 112" 312" 312" 8 C

D Table legs 112" 512" 3318" 4 C

E Seat bases 112" 512" 24" 4 C

F Seat legs 112" 512" 14" 8 C

G Seat cleats 112" 112" 9" 8 C

H Top perimeter boards 112" 512" 21516" 8 C

I 112" 512" 1618" 8 C

J* Outside tabletop boards 112" 512" 2812" 2 C

K*Outside adjacent tabletopboards

112" 512" 391516" 2 C

L Center tabletop boards 112" 512" 4012" 3 C

M

boards112" 512" 26" 8 C

N 112" 512" 2358" 8 C

Materials:C = Cedar

Hardware/Supplies:#8 212" and #8 3" exterior-grade screws;

Convenience-PLUS

BUYING GUIDE

1. #153577 $2.75

2. #142693 $8.99

3. #85O13 $5.29

Router Fence Dust 12"

4. #148483 $20.99

#8 212

woodcraft.com Prices subject to change without notice.

4. $54.99

Above item is available at amazon.com. Pricesubject to change without notice.


46/84


Passing the ketchup andmustard around the picnic

table just got a whole lot easier

with this table topper. Glue

and splines hold the perimeter

of the table frame together. A

lazy Susan bearing hidden in

a channel underneath allows

for the rotation, while a hole

in the center of the assembly

accommodates an umbrella

shaft. With the stock and

bearing on hand, you can build

the piece in an afternoon.

Make the perimeter frame1 Starting with an 8'-longcedar 26 or a piece of 6/4

cedar of similar length and

width, mill the wood to 114"

thick by 312" wide for the

perimeter frame pieces (A).

2 Install a 34"-wide dado set inyour tablesaw, and raise it 34"

above the table. Adjust the fence

1" from the dado set, and begin

cutting a 178"-wide channel, 34"

deep, on one face of the board.

Adjust the fence as necessary to

achieve the channels full width.

(This will be the bottom face;

the edge in contact with the

fence will be the outside edge.)

3 Using a 14" dado set and a

it, cut a 14" rabbet, 34" deep along

the top face and inside edge of the

board, where shown in Figure 1.

4 Adjust your mitersaw tothe right to cut at 6712 (or

2212, depending on your saws

settings). Set up a 4"-wide

stopblock on the right side of the

blade for an 8"-long cut to create

the trapezoids making up the

perimeter frame. Now, make a

test cut on a 312"-wide piece of

scrap. Swing the blade to 671

2to the left. Slide the test piece

against the stop and make the

cut. Verify the angles and length.

Next, set the blade to 6712 right,

right end of the perimeter board

stock. Set the blade to 6712 to

the left, slide the mitered end of

the board to the stop, and cut the

Repeat the procedure to cut theremaining seven frame pieces.

5 Using an exterior-grade glue

up the perimeter frame pieces

(A) to form an octagon, clamping

with a strap clamp. Let the glue

set up and remove the strap.

6 Make the slot-cutting jig inFigure 2 for your tablesaw using

scrap 34" MDF or plywood. Shape

a pair of add-on fences to suit

the octagonal frame, and adhere

them to the jigs tall fence using

double-faced tape. Install a saw

bottomed kerf, and raise the blade

to cut 34"-deep into the corners of

the octagonal frame. Adjust the

saw fence to center the slot cuts

in the edge of the frame. Now,

place the frame on the jig, clamp

slot. Similarly, cut the remaining

slots at each perimeter joint.

7 Resaw enough 1"-wide spline

(I used walnut for contrast.)

Cut the pieces to length, work

glue into the slots with a thin

applicator, and tap the splines in

place. After the glue sets, trim

edges of the octagonal frame.

HardworkingLazy SusanGive your outdoor dining table a new spin.

By Bill Sands Overall dimensions: 1912"w 1912"d 114"h


47/84

Figure 2:

April/May 2014 45

Add the tabletop boards,stabilizer, and bearing1 Cut enough 34"-thick stockto 318" wide for the outside

tabletop boards (B) and

inside tabletop boards (C).

2

of the outside tabletop boards (B)at 6712

snugly against the inside edges of

the octagonal frame. Fit the pieces

in place, as shown in Figure 1.

3 Measure the distance betweenthe outside tabletop boards

(B). Subtract from this number

the combined widths of the

two inside tabletop boards (C).

Divide the remainder by three

for the spacing between thetabletop boards once in place.

4 Cut the inside tabletopboards (C) to length. Using the

established spacing, set the

boards on the octagonal frame

opening parallel to the outside

tabletop boards (B), and mark

corners of the tabletop boards,

and pin (or clamp) all the pieces

in place in the frames rabbet.

5 Cut the octagonal stabilizer (D)to the size in the Cut List. Center

and glue it in place, orienting the

grain at a 45 angle to the grain

direction of the tabletop boards.

6 Drill a centered 112" hole foran umbrella shaft in the lazy

Susan assembly (A/B/C/D).

7 With a 14" radius round-overbit in a router table or handheld

router, round over the edges of

the lazy Susan and the 112" hole.

Avoid letting the bearing dip

into the gap between the boards.

Sand the assembly through 220

(I used Sikkens Cetol SRD.)

8 Center the bearing in thechannel in part A, and screw

it in place. The rubber feet

extend below the assembly.

Lazy Susan Cut List

Part Thickness Width Length Qty. MatlA 114" 312" 8" 8 C

B 34" 18" 1134" 2 C

C 34" 18" 13" 2 C

D 34" 12" 512" 1 C

Materials:Hardware/Supplies: 14

Convenience-PLUSBUYING GUIDE

1316 516

woodcraft.com

Figure 1:

112

18 34

114

18 34

34

2212

312 13

34

34 14

14

14 34


48/84


In truth, the great outdoors isntthat great for wood. Sunlight(UV radiation), moisture, plus

a host of insects and microbes

are all dead-set on turning your

project back into the dirt from

whence it came. Paint provides

the best defense; unfortunately,

the pigments that protect also

cover up the woods grain and

your workmanship. If you want

the woodand your workto shine

days isnt as clear as it once was.

In addition to a host of familiar

offerings, advanced chemistry

restrictions) has created a bunch of

new options. Choice can be a good

thing, but with so many products

silently sitting side-by-side on the

store shelf, its easy to get confused.

To help you make sense of your

options, Ive divided outdoor clear

and provided examples to illustrate

the range of products within each

group. Additionally, Ive included

two outside of the box products

that deserve consideration.

next project, start by comparing

the major differences, such as

application ease and service

life, and select a category. Next,

check the attributes within each

subcategory, and pick a winner.

(To make quick sense of the facts,

skip ahead to the chart on p. 50.)

This shouldnt come as a surprise,

but eventually, weather will win.

That said, if you choose the right

product and do what it takes to keep

up its defenses, you can help your

project hold out for many years.

Clear OutdoorFinishesWeather will eventually win,but heres how to play good defense.

By Joe Hurst-Wajszczuk


49/84

VarnishesPros:

Cons:

April/May 2014 47

Whether the can says spar

(varnishes are a traditional

safe to assume that the product

enough to withstand outdoor

conditions and to protect against

moisture and UV radiation.

Varnishes are intended to be

built up to create thick physical

Alkyd(Oil-Based) VarnishesTraditional oil-based varnishes

lead the pack in durability. Most

can hold their own for 2 to 3

years before they look chalky.

involves scuff-sanding the

topcoat and applying a fresh coat.

maintenance. If damage makes

need to completely strip the

project and start from scratch.

With a top-quality natural

does take time. Factoring in the

drying t imes and the requisite

and a few more days before

the project is ready for use.

Acrylic(Water-Based) VarnishesAs with most water-based

not raise the grain. In terms

varnishes are whiter than

neither had the color-sapping

acrylics. The color clarity also

allows you the ability to use

this varnish as a protective

topcoat on painted projects.

no further. Acrylics cure

considerably faster than oil-

based varnishes and quicker than

I could apply a smooth coat of

acrylic in roughly half the time

it took to brush out and tip off

The biggest surprise was how

much easier acrylics were to

corn up when scuff-sanding

that you sand a lot to correct

be the reason to try acrylic.

Whether acrylics resist

better than alkyds remains

plenty of reasons why you

should give acrylics a try.


50/84


Oil/Varnish BlendsIn theory, oil/varnish blends

combine the best of both worlds.

to apply (with a brush, rag, or

garden sprayer) than heavier-

bodied varnishes. The resins

offer additional protection

against moisture and abrasion.

However, while blends offer

barrier still doesnt do much to

block moisture or vapor. And

while most blends contain UV

inhibitors, not much defense

can be packed into a clear coat

thats only a few microns thick.

If the piece spends most of its

days outdoors, you should plan

on making regular inspections

as soon as the wood appears dull

(about every year). The good

news is that oil/varnish blends

project might only require a light

scrubbing or power-

washing before its

ready for recoating.

Furthermore,

repairs are easy. If the wood

starts to stain or turn grey,

you can usually get away

with spot-sanding and then

applying a few touch-up

coats to the problem spot.

Hardening OilsTung oil is one of the few

naturally-hardening oils that

is suitable for outdoor use. To

use, simply wipe it on, wait, andthen wipe off, and wait (each

coat requires a day or two to

tung oil offers a decent defense

against moisture; however,

because it lacks UV inhibitors,

projects exposed to sunlight

will eventually turn grey.

Made from a blend of natural

oils (including linseed), Odies Oxi

Oil is solvent-free and nontoxic.

In contrast to slow-curing tung

oil, Odies looks good after only

one coat and dries in only 72

hours. To use, simply apply with

a rag or abrasive pad, give theoil 30 minutes to sink into the

wood, and then buff off the excess.

Because it contains natural

waxes and UV inhibitors, Odies

has an edge over tung oil when it

comes to combating moisture and

sunlight, but the barrier is still

thin. To keep defenses up, youll

need to monitor your project

and apply a fresh coat when the

surface starts to appear dry.

and easy to apply and provide the most natural feel and

appearance. Unfortunately, in comparison to varnishes, these

Mother Nature. And because most oils cure so soft, you cant

expect multiple coats to create a thicker, more durable defense.

As a group, oils are the most easily misunderstood becausethe products have completely different makeups. To understand

your choices, it helps to divide this category into subgroups:

hardening, oil/varnish blends, and polymerized oils.

OilsPros:

No sanding required between coats

Finish will not chip or peel

Cons:

Most oils cannot be built up


51/84

When shopping for clear wood

OneTime Wood Protector

Woodlife Classic

One-Time And Woodlife Classic

April/May 2014 49

Polymerized OilsAlthough not evident from the

label, Tru-Oil is different enough

to deserve a special category. This

polymerized (polymerization

refers to a cooking

process in an oxygen-free

environment) product isessentially partially-

cured. Once exposed

to oxygen, the oil

cures harder, faster,

and glossier than

tung oil and most oil/

varnish blends. With

multiple coats, its

possible to build up

that can hold its ownagainst the elements.

The downside to the

polymerization process is that the

curing clock is already ticking.

Compared to other oils and

blends, Tru-Oil tacks up quickly

and may develop tiny cracks if

its applied too thick. For these

reasons, it should be reserved

for smaller, more manageable

scales and gun stocks.

Looking at Linseed Oil? Look elsewhere.

Safety Alert

Online Extra


52/84


Outdoor Clear Finishes Comparison ChartProduct Type Cost Recd

coatsWaterResistance(Moisture/Vapor)

UVResistance

Mildewresistance

Film-Building

Cleanup Drying(hours)

Notes

Tung Oil Oil $20.99/qt. Rag, brush 5 Y/N N N N Mineralspirits

24 excess or gummy.

OdiesOxi Oil

Oil $27.99/9 oz. Rag, brush 1-2 Y/N Y N N Mineralspirits orD-Limo-nene

72 Wax providesmoistureresistance.

GeneralFinishesOutdoor Oil

Oil/Var-nish

$17/qt. Rag, brush 2 Y/N Y Y N Mineralspirits

10 Darkensslightly

WatcoTeak Oil

Oil/Var-nish


10 Recom-mened forhardwoods(mahogany,teak, ipe).

WatcoExteriorWood

Oil/Var-nish


10 Recom-mended forSlight yellow

Tru-Oil Polymer-

ized Oil

$17/8 oz. Rag, spray

(aerosol can)

5 Y/Y N Y Y Mineral

spirits

24 Apply in

thin layers toavoid cracks.Does notyellowwith age.

System 3Spar

Oil $40/qt. Brush 9-12 Y/Y Y N Y Mineralspirits

24-48 Can beappliedover epoxy.Darkens

VarathaneSpar

Oil $19/qt. Brush 3 Y/N Y N Y Mineralspirits

72 Darkens

BehlensWWVarnish

Oil $23/qt. Brush 3 Y/N Y N Y MineralSpirits

24-48 Nearly color-less. Darkensless thanother oils.

Waterlox(Sealer andMarineFinish)

Oil $32/qt.$43/qt.

Brush, rag 31 sealer/2 top

Y/Y Y N Y Mineralspirits

72-96 Sandingnot requiredfor adhesionof next coat.Darkens

Varathane Acrylic $16/qt. Brush, roller,sprayer

4 Y/Y Y N Y Soap andwater

24 Can besanded in2 hours.

GF Exterior450

Acrylic $23/qt. Brush, roller,sprayer

3Y/Y Y Y Y Soap and

water24 Can be

sanded in 2hours. Worksas topcoat onGF paints. Notrecommendedfor ipe or teak.

OneTime AcrylateResin

$35/qt. Brush, roller,sprayer

1 Y/N Y N N MineralspiritsorSimpleGreen

24-48 100% solid;requires UVto cure. No

WoodlifeWoodPreserva-

Acrylic $12/qt. Brush, roller,sprayer, dip

3 Y/Y N Y Y Soap andwater

24 Sealerand primer.Above-grounduse only.EPAregisteredmildewcide.


53/84


Frame-and-panel constructionhas been used for centuries to

build cabinet doors, case sides,

and other assemblies. It is so

attractive you might think it was

designed that way just for looks.

But it was actually devised as an

elegant solution to the perennial

problem of wood movement.

The problem is that a simple

solid wood panel expands and

contracts across its width in

response to seasonal changes in

humidity. So if such a single-slab

panel was used as a cabinet door,

for example, it might swell shut

during high summer humidity

and shrink enough to show

unsightly gaps during winters

low humidity. With frame-and-

unglued inside a frame where its

allowed to expand and contract

while the frame maintains a

consistent overall size. Brilliant.

Of course, panels can also

be made from plywood, MDF,

and other stable man-made

materials. This approach offers

the beauty of frame-and-panel

construction without the

wood movement problems.

Whatever style you choose, its

not hard to build frame-and-

panel assemblies, especially

with the st ile-and-rail router

bit sets available these days

for the frame joinery. However,

designing and making assemblies

well requires some nuance and

a basic understanding of wood

movement. Here, Ive compiled

a handful of tips and techniques

your frame-and-panel work.

Frame-and-Panel FinesseLooks and longevity are in the details.By Paul Anthony


54/84

How it works


Wood is hygroscopic; that is, it absorbs moisture

from the air. And when it does, the moisture

swells the cell walls, causing the wood to expand

across its grain. Conversely, when moisture in

the air decreases, the wood will shrink acrossits grain. This response to changing seasonal

humidity must be factored into the design

of a piece of furniture if its to last. Frame-

and-panel construction is a solution that

allows a wide solid wood panel to expand and

contract freely within grooves in the frame.

The frame consists of stiles (the vertical

members) and rails (the horizontal members)

that are relatively narrow, so they wont

substantially change dimension over the

seasons. This dimensionally stable constructionhouses the panel within the frame grooves. A

tongue at the panel perimeter tucks into the

between the two even as the

panel changes width.

into its frame, leave a gap

between the panel sides and

the stile grooves to allow for

wood movement. (Because

the panel wont change length,

between its rail grooves.) A

that the fully expanded panel

wont muscle the frame joints

apart. Likewise, you dont want

a fully contracted panel to pull

entirely away from its grooves.

In the case of man-made

materials (e.g., plywood

and MDF), the frame serves

to restrain the panel from

warping and to hide any ugly

from the aesthetics borrowed

from traditional frame-and-

panel design. And because

a plywood panel is stable, it

can be glued into the frame

grooves, making for a virtually

indestructible assembly.

Door Anatomy

Wood Movement

Top rail

Tongue

Bevel

Dowel or otherpin throughrear face keepspanel centered.

No expansiongap needed inrail grooves.

Expansion gap

Negligiblemovement acrossgrain of narrow

No movement

No movement

Solid wood expandsand contracts onlyacross the grain.

Solidwoodpanel sitsungluedin framegrooves.


55/84

Although most panels can

simply be categorized as either

in small shops today are cut on

thickness. The simplest approach

is to

Woodcraft Magazine - May 2014 USA.pdf

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