Bon Appetit - June 2014 USA.pdf

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june 2014

bonappetit.com

F e at u r e s

64

summer 1, 2, 3Step one: Pick up perfect produce. Step two: Blow minds. Our summertime-and-the-living’s-easy guide to cooking (or not!) the best the season has to ofer.by julia kramer; recipes by alison roman

72

into the wildRich, meaty, real-deal wild salmon is a fleeting treat—yeah, it’s seasonal!—and Seattle chef Renee Erickson has six ways to savor it.

82

sqirl powrForget giant scones. L.A.’s coolest café is dishing up the future of restaurant food— and we can’t get enough of it.by matt duckor

92

Cherry bombIt may not be a classic yet, but trust us, our recipe for sour cherry pie is about to be the most stained page in this magazine.recipe by alison roman

94

all quiet on the western frontChristopher Kostow, the celebrated yet stealth chef, taps into Napa Valley’s true terroir.by chris ying

on the coVer

Sour Cherry Pie (for recipe, see page 93).Photograph by Gentl & Hyers. Food styling by Susie Theodorou. Prop styling by Angharad Bailey.

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HaVe a QuestION aBOut a reCIPe, Or a COMMeNt? E-mail us at [email protected], or contact the editorial ofices: Bon Appétit, 4 Times Square, New York, NY 10036. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS AND CHANGES OF ADDRESS, call 800-765-9419 (515-243-3273 from outside the U.S.A.) or e-mail [email protected]. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.

Driftwood isn’t the only beautiful thing ofered up by the waters of the Pacific Northwest.

P. 72

june

B o n A p p É t i t • V o l u m e 5 9 n u m B e r 6

Jewel-like greens from the gardens at Napa’s

Restaurant at Meadowood.

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B o n A p p e t i t . c o m

19

the BA arsenalBerries. Cream. Period.

20

the ChallengeSpinach: strong yet flexible.

22

we’re into itOur sun-loving staf’s beach-picnic

essentials.

24

the BA q&aSir Patrick Stewart on backstage potlucks and quiet time white wine.by alison rosen

26

the BA CheCklistBoutique veggie boxes, spotlight on squid, and more June musts.

28

the foodistAndrew Knowlton’s Father’s Day fantasy. (Yes, there is booze.)

32

the drinkWhy cofee cocktails have us buzzing.

sta rt e r s

35

fast, easy, freshSimple summery meals.by alison roman

44

the seasonal CooksCanal House dresses up the season’s great greens.by melissa

hamilton

and christopher

hirsheimer

48

the partyFire up your next fête with incendiary hot chicken from Nashville’s own Hattie B’s.

t H e ba k I tC H e N

14

r.s.V.p.Reader requests and editor favorites.

56

naVigatorBarcelona’s modest modern side.by geraldine

campbell

107

prep sChoolRavishing radishes, magical mayo, and much more.

114

baCk of the napkinCeeLo Green on his “intimate” food feelings.by alison rosen

C O lu M N s

in eVery issue 8 @bonappetit 12 editor’s letter 111 recipe index 111 sourcebook

6 bonappetit.com • JUne 2014

june

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F I N D , F O L L O W , A N D C O N N E C T W I T H U S O N L I N E

adam goldberg, the globe-hopping gourmand behind @alifewortheating,

takes over the BA instagram feed this month with photos from his most

recent travels. his insatiable appetite might lead him to tokyo, stockholm,

or deepest brooklyn. follow along with envy at @bonappetitmag.

Hot Dogs

nothing screams

“u.s.a.! u.s.a.!”

like this classic.

Morcilla

this bold blood

sausage is a

staple of spain.

cHorizo

mexico’s zesty

link of choice.

pair with beans!

Kolbasa

mother russia

likes this one with

braised cabbage.

bratwurst

a grilled brat and

a beer? gotta

be in germany.

Merguez

repping

algeria, lamb

with a spicy kick.

the FiFa World cup begins June 12

in brazil. we’re celebrating with a World

Cup of Sausage on bonappetit.com.

our experts break down each country’s

finest encased meat: chorizo,

landjäger, finocchiona—whatever they

call it. at right, a little pregame action.

linK bait

“How to create a @bonappetit recipe: just add za’atar and/

or aleppo pepper and top with Maldon sea salt. DONE!”

Think you’ve got Instagram

game? Hashtag

your posts #bareaders,

and we’ll round up

our favorite captures on bonappetit

.com.

The Inbox

We love your tough-but-fair Facebook comments, excited-

and-occasionally-outraged tweets, and—best of all—

actual letters! Here are a few of our favorite notes this month:

“Panini is already plural. It does not automatically become an English word

in need of an s to denote there are more than one.”

—@TweeTs_R_BeaT

“I cook salmon skin-side down. When almost half

done, pour enough vermouth to cover pan bottom.

Put on a lid and wait about two minutes and it will be

cooked perfectly.”

—JaneTTe H., via FaceBook, addRessing ouR lisT oF

common salmon misTakes

—nancy s., via FaceBook, adding To ouR lisT oF

common Food misspellings

instagram takeover

Previously, in Instagram

takeovers: Wolfgang

Puck and April Bloomfield

#TBT

Thinly pounded,

deep- fried chicken

cutlet sandwiches

are the lunch of

choice at the market in Pueblo,

Mexico.

published by condé nast

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Vice President–Scripted TV gina marChesChi Vice President–Branded Content & Sales Marketing anissa e. frey

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Editor in Chief

adam rapoport

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Editorial Director

thomas J. wallaceArtistic Director

anna Wintour

what’s the best

father’s day

gift you’ve ever

received?

“‘the free Pass,’ as my wife

calls it. she watches our son, i watch the

final round of the u.s. open for five straight

hours. glorious.”

—A.R.

“i love it whenever my kids

make me something crafty. for example, i won’t leave home

without my duct-tape business-card

holder.”

—G.F.

“Breakfast made by my

three daughters, the oldest of

whom was 12 at the time.”

—T.W.

“i’m new to this father’s

day thing—my kids are almost three and one— but the best thing i’ve

gotten to date is the gift of sleep! an extra hour

of nap time is like a daddy spa day.”

—A.S.

P h o t o g r a P h b y c h r i s t i n a h o l m e s

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editor’s letter

adam rapoport

editor in chief

follow

adam on

twitter and

instagram at

@rapo4

For easier beer retrieval,

add a little water to your

cooler.

If you were to drop by the Bon Appétit ofces at, say, 5 p.m. on a Thursday, it might feel more like a backyard barbecue than a workplace. You’d catch creative director Alex Grossman dipping into my fridge for a well-chilled American beer (I like to keep it classic, and real cold), while restaurant and drinks editor Andrew Knowlton mixes a highball and lectures me on the need for artisanal bitters. At some point, Alison Roman or Dawn Perry might come up from the test kitchen with a tray of hot-and-crispy this or creamy-and-tangy that, and take up Knowlton on his standing drink ofer.

Now, I’m not saying every ofce can or should operate like a T.G.I. Fridays. But I do know that when you work behind a desk, you spend the majority of your waking hours in the ofce—even in summer. So at BA, we try to make the most of it. Yes, we work plenty hard, but if there’s a going-away party or a birthday, we’ll absolutely pull out the Coleman cooler. And there will be a discussion about how to properly stock it (beer frst, then ice) and whether or not to add water (defnitely—it helps loosen things up, making for easy bottle withdrawal). And then, if the snacks are of the bagged variety, debates will likely ensue about the virtues of Nacho Cheese versus Cool Ranch.

At some point during the summer, most of BA’s editors will escape to the shore for a week to stoke the grill, fry up some crazy-hot chicken (page 48), and maybe bake a cherry pie (page 92). But mostly we’ll hunker down here in Times Square and make a magazine. And we’re good with that. We’re a staf that writes about food and drink, so we eat what we preach—no matter where we are.

T H I S I S S U M M E R

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r.s.v.p. ReadeRs’ FavoRite RestauRant Recipes

These dishes look as good as

they sound. We have

photos on our app and at

bonappetit .com/rsvp to prove it.

SHRIMP WITH MuSTaRd-

LIMe dIPPING SauCe

4 servings Cooking the shrimp with their

shells on helps them retain flavor; scoring

them along the back lets you remove

the vein and makes peeling easier. Win-win.

shrimp

1 ½ lb. shell-on large shrimp

Kosher salt

¼ cup plus 1 Tbsp. Old Bay

seasoning

3 lemons, halved

2 Tbsp. olive oil

2 Tbsp. chopped fresh flat-leaf

parsley

mustard-lime dipping sauce

½ cup mayonnaise

2 Tbsp. spicy brown mustard

1 tsp. fresh lime juice

1 tsp. honey

1 tsp. light brown sugar

½ tsp. English mustard powder

½ tsp. Worcestershire sauce

Hot sauce

Kosher salt

Lime wedges (for serving)

shrimp using kitchen shears and working

one at a time, cut along the length of

the backs of shrimp, cutting through shells

and just deep enough into flesh to expose

veins; remove veins.

Bring a large saucepan of salted water

to a boil and add ¼ cup old Bay seasoning.

squeeze lemon juice into water and add

lemon halves to saucepan; return water to

a boil. add shrimp, reduce heat, and simmer

until cooked through, about 3 minutes.

deaR Bon Appétit, My girlfriend and i are

obsessed with the peel ’n’ eat shriMp

at SoN of a GuN in los angeles, but we have

no idea how they Make theM. please help! —Landon Lewis, Los Angeles

THe eLvIS

makes 1 Bitter notes from grapefruit and ale

balance the floral sweetness of the gin and

liqueur—one sip and it will all make sense.

3 oz. fresh pink grapefruit juice

1 ½ oz. London dry gin

¼ oz. St-Germain (elderflower liqueur)

India Pale Ale (for serving)

Grapefruit twist (for serving)

combine grapefruit juice, gin, and liqueur

in a cocktail shaker. Fill shaker with ice

and shake until outside of shaker is frosty,

about 30 seconds. strain into a rocks

glass filled with ice and top off with ale.

Garnish with grapefruit twist.

deaR Bon Appétit,

I’ve been thinking about the Elvis beer cocktail from Town in Carbondale, Co, since I tried it last summer. It’s all of my favorite things in one drink! —CharLotte stoniCh, Los Angeles

transfer to a bowl of ice water and let cool.

drain and pat dry.

Just before serving, whisk oil and

remaining 1 tbsp. old Bay in a medium bowl.

add shrimp and parsley and toss to coat.

do ahead: shrimp can be cooked 1 day

ahead. cover and chill.

mustard-lime dipping sauce

Whisk mayonnaise, brown mustard, lime

juice, honey, brown sugar, mustard powder,

and Worcestershire sauce in a medium bowl;

season with hot sauce and salt. serve

shrimp with dipping sauce and lime wedges.

“the combo of creamy labneh and

pufed quinoa in the grain salad at Betony

in nyC strikes a perfect balance.”

BA sta f f P i c k

C l a i r e Sa f f i tz

Ass i stA n t Fo o d E d i to r

GRaIN SaLad WITH Puffed Red QuINoa aNd LaBNeH6 servings If pufing the quinoa feels like

too much, swap in some chopped toasted

nuts to get a similar crunchy texture.

1 ½ cups cooked red quinoa

(from about ½ cup dried)

2 Tbsp. vegetable oil

¼ tsp. sugar

½ cup olive oil, plus more

3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice, plus more

Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper

½ large shallot, finely chopped

3 Tbsp. chopped fresh chives

3 cups cooked grains (such as farro,

amaranth, bulgur, and/or barley;

from about 1 cup dried)

¾ cup labneh (Lebanese strained

yogurt) or plain Greek yogurt

3 cups mild sprouts (such as

pea and/or sunflower), divided

Flaky sea salt (such as Maldon)

preheat oven to 200°. spread out ½ cup

cooked quinoa on a rimmed baking sheet

and bake, tossing once, until quinoa is dry

and no longer sticks together, 30–45 minutes.

Heat vegetable oil in a large saucepan

over medium-high heat until almost smoking

(oil needs to be very hot). Remove from

heat, add dried quinoa, and quickly cover.

cook, shaking saucepan vigorously, just until

quinoa is pufed, which will happen almost

immediately. transfer quinoa to paper towels

to drain.

Whisk sugar, ½ cup olive oil, and 3 tbsp.

lemon juice in a medium bowl; season

with kosher salt and pepper. toss in shallot,

chives, cooked grains, remaining 1 cup

cooked quinoa, and half of pufed quinoa;

season with kosher salt and pepper.

spread labneh on plates. top with salad,

sprouts, and remaining pufed quinoa. drizzle

with oil and lemon juice; season with sea salt.

r.s.v.p.

deaR Bon Appétit,

the Spice Island Tea House in Pittsburgh makes the most incredible semolina cake. I haven’t been able to find a recipe that is anything like it. —dorey wheaLan-BueLL, Pittsburgh

BuRMeSe SeMoLINa Cake 12 servings Semolina flour is ground from

durum wheat and is usually used to make

pasta; toasting it deepens its flavor, and its

fine grain yields a tender, custardy cake.

2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted, cooled

slightly, divided, plus more

1 ¼ cups semolina flour

1 large egg

1 14-oz. can coconut milk

1 ½ cups half-and-half

⅓ cup sugar

1 tsp. kosher salt

Coconut ice cream and toasted

unsweetened coconut flakes

(for serving)

preheat oven to 425°. Butter an 8x8" baking

dish. toast semolina in a large dry skillet over

medium-high heat, stirring, until darkened

and nutty-smelling, about 2 minutes. Let cool.

Whisk egg, coconut milk, half-and-half,

sugar, salt, and 1 tbsp. butter in a large

saucepan. Gradually whisk in semolina and

bring mixture to a boil over medium-high

heat, whisking, until mixture is very thick and

pulls away from the sides of saucepan, about

4 minutes. scrape batter into baking dish.

Bake cake until golden brown and a

tester inserted into the center comes out

clean, 45–50 minutes. transfer dish to a

wire rack. Brush cake with remaining 1 tbsp.

butter; let cool slightly. serve with coco-

nut ice cream, topped with coconut flakes.

do ahead: cake can be baked 1 day

ahead; cover and chill.

Want us to get a restaurant recipe for you? E-mail us at [email protected]. Submissions become the property of Bon Appétit.Il

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JUNE 2014 • boNappEtit.com 19

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P h o t o g r a P h b y m i c h a e l g r a y d o n + n i k o l e h e r r i o t t

When berries are peaking, they rarely see the inside of my fridge. at the farmers’ market,

i handle comparison shopping by buying twice what i can carry. Some are devoured on site:

“mom, no one will know these even existed,” my younger son says as we shove blueberries

into our mouths. the walk home is all shortcake fantasies and cobbler dreams, but as i unpack

the containers, reality sets in. No baking today. instead, i tumble raspberries and blackberries

onto dishes, splash them with thick, cold heavy cream, and add a drizzle of maple syrup.

We sit on the stoop and eat them just like this, a sweet and fleeting feast. —Carla lalli MusiC

Still have leftovers? Find out the best

way to store your berries in Prep

School, page 110.

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20 bonappetit.com • june 2014

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P h o t o g r a P h s b y d a n n y k i m

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Tender stems are fine to eat, but

thicker stalks can be tough and stringy, even

when cooked. To remove quickly,

gather the whole bunch in one

hand and cut of woody parts in a

single move.

choP

shoP

Crispy shallots

Minty sPinach DiP

“A serving of

spinach disguised

as dip and an

excuse to eat pita

chips? Sold!”

—Dawn Perry,

senior food editor

Cook 1 trimmed

bunch flat-leaf

spinach in a pot

of boiling salted

water until wilted,

about 30 seconds;

drain and run under

cold water. Drain

well, squeeze out

as much liquid as

possible, and finely

chop. Mix spinach

with 1 thinly sliced

scallion, ¾ cup

sour cream, and 2

Tbsp. chopped

fresh mint; season

with salt and

pepper. Let sit at

room temperature

at least 15 minutes.

Serve with crudités

or pita chips.

4 servings

Tingly mint

Juicy melon

sPinach salaD

with Dates

“It’s everything

I want in a salad:

sweet, crunchy,

and bright.”

—Claire Safitz,

assistant food editor

Blend 2 pitted

dates, ⅓ cup

vegetable oil, 1 tsp.

finely grated lime

zest, and ¼ cup lime

juice in a blender

until smooth;

season with salt and

pepper. Heat ¼ cup

vegetable oil in a

medium saucepan

over medium-high

heat and cook

4 thinly sliced large

shallots, stirring

often, until golden

brown and crisp,

5–7 minutes; drain

on paper towels

and season with

salt. Toss 1 trimmed

bunch flat-leaf

spinach and ¾ cup

chopped dates with

dressing. Top with

shallots. 4 servings

Eat Your Spinach

run through a juicer, folded into party dip,

or served in an updated salad, the original “leafy

green” shows us its muscles (and its versatility)

sPinach-honeyDew cooler

“i’ll juice just about any green, but spinach is my go-to.

melon just sweetens the deal.”

—Alison Roman, senior associate food editor

Pass 1 bunch flat-leaf spinach, 2 cups cut-up honeydew

melon, and ½ lemon (peel and white pith removed) through

a juicer. serve over ice. (or, blend spinach and melon in

a blender, strain, and stir in 2 Tbsp. lemon juice.) Makes 2

The Challenge

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22 bonappetit.com • june 2014 P h o t o g r a P h s b y Z a c h d e s a r t ad

dit

ion

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1

Andrew

Knowlton

restaurant ed.

“I’m loving the

slightly effervescent

Ameztoi Txakolina

Rosato Rubentis

2012 rosé: It goes

with everything from

potato salad to cold

fried chicken.

Best of all, it’s got

a screwcap.”

$24; bottlerocket.com

2

CArlA lAlli

MusiC

food & features ed.

“My dream beach

outing involves

blue skies, gentle

waves, and

me crushing the

competition with

my ultrachic beach

tennis set.”

$140; fredericks andmae.com

3

Christine

MuhlKe

executIve ed.

“You can take a

blanket to the

beach, so why not

a duvet? steven

alan does such

good stripes; this

deserves to make

it out of the house.”

$149/queen size; westelm.com

4

Alex GrossMAn

creatIve dIr.

“Most umbrellas

stink. this titanium

one is light and

indestructible, and

the built-in

vents keep it from

blowing away.”

$90; coolibar.com

5

dAnielle wAlsh

assocIate weB ed.

“this stylish Tom

Black folding deck

chair reminds

me of the original

Barbie swimsuit.”

$245; lestoiles dusoleilnyc.com

6

stACey riverA

dIgItal dIr.

“My Fitzgerald Bag

holds everything:

toys, extra towels,

bathing suits—and

the square bottom

keeps it standing

upright in the sand.”

$265; luludklifestyle.com

A Day at the...

What do you pack for a trip to the shore?

From a comfy chair to the right wine,

our stafers share their beach-picnic essentials

by Joanna Sciarrino

4

3

2

6

1

5

The one thing always in our bag?

An egg sandwich.

Get the recipe at

bonappetit .com/beach

sandwich.

We’ re Into It

24 bonappetit.com • june 2014 P h o t o g r a P h b y b o r u o ’ b r i e n o ’ c o n n e l l

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So what’s the last thing you ate?

“An unconventional Cobb salad at Stone

Park Cafe in Brooklyn. It had a poached

egg surrounded by a crisp, deep-fried

breadcrumb shell. When I cut into it,

the yolk ran into the lettuce.”

What flavors do you love? “Savory

and intense. I’m English, and all English-

men are addicted to Marmite. My wife

[American singer Sunny Ozell] would

rather think it’s not in her kitchen.”

What repulses you? “Cooked mushrooms.

They’re slimy and old-tasting.”

Booze of choice. “Chivas and soda on

the rocks. Plain and simple.”

How do you take your coffee? “I used to

be a traditionalist—Kona Gold in a drip

maker—but I’m afraid I have fallen for the

new fashion of instant: We have a Keurig.

It’s fantastic. I like a little milk, no sugar.”

Tell us a childhood food memory. “Well, i was born in 1940. my father was

serving in the army, but when the war

was over we went away for a day to the

seaside. My father popped into a store,

and when he came out, he told me to

close my eyes. He put something in my

hand that felt so weird, I snatched my

hand away. I looked down, and on the

sidewalk was this yellowy-pinky furry-

looking fruit. It was a peach! It was the

most exotic taste I’d ever experienced.”

What’s in your greenroom? “Yorkshire

Gold tea, fruit, and chocolate digestive

biscuits. But most important: bottles

of white wine in the refrigerator. There

is nothing nicer than coming ofstage,

opening one, and sitting quietly.”

Any backstage food traditions?

“On Sunday afternoons, the crew, staf,

wig department, and even the actors

bring in homemade dishes. We set up a

picnic table under the stage, and every-

one shares brunch. I bring my wife’s

sea-salt brownies. They’re very popular.”

Who’s on your dream dinner party guest list? “President Obama and

his wife; Shakespeare; Marlon Brando;

jennifer Lawrence; randy newman;

and though he might make trouble, the

late Harold Pinter and his wife. That

sounds like a pretty good dinner party.”

—IntervIew by AlIson rosen

q u e s t i o n s f o r

10

Sir Patrick StewartThe theater legend and X-Men:

Days of Future Past star is all about Marmite, Keurig machines,

and his wife’s sea-salt brownies

For a video of Stewart talking boiled sheep heads, go to bonappetit.com/celebs

My wife makes the most sensational risotto. In trufle season, she shaves white trufles over it.”

LAST MEAL ON EARTH

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The BA Q&A


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Cocktails by the Pintthe june Summer

Cocktail Series from

ice cream gods Salt

& Straw combines

two things we love

about portland, or:

craft cocktails and

a chill, collaborative

vibe. For each of its

five boozy-delicious

flavors, the dairy

whizzes teamed

with a diźerent pDX

bartender—like

imperial’s brandon

Wise on chocolate

chip mint julep.

$65 for five pints;

saltandstraw.com

S C O O P

To mak squid at home, simply seaso wt salt ad pepper, grill,

ad serv wt a lemo wege.

Our New Healthy Cooking Bibleottolenghi fans, take note: Diana Henry’s bright

and beautiful recipes in A Change of Appetite

(mitchell beazley; $35) nail the flavors and ingredients

we’re craving these days. Fava bean purée and

cumin flatbread, hot-smoked salmon with rye berries,

gooseberry-almond spelt cake—we’re coming for you.

o r D e r

Seriously Elevated Plane FoodFinally, an airline

doing mealtime

right. JetBlue’s Mint

class, which begins

this month on the

jFK–LaX route, has

a menu adapted

from nYc’s Saxon

+ parole. Dishes

include corn soup

with huitlacoche

or beets three ways

(roasted, shaved,

pickled). From $599

one-way (including

a lie-flat seat!), it’s

a worthy indulgence.

jetblue.com

r e a D

Cult Vegetablesever wonder where thomas Keller

and grant achatz get their pristine,

unusual produce? the answer

is the Chef’s Garden, Lee jones’s

farm in Huron, oH. but here’s the

crazy thing: You can get the same

broccoli rabe blooms, pea shoots,

edible flowers, and more year-round

by ordering a box (hello, host gift!)

or joining the monthly cSa. $30

or $45 per box; farmerjonesfarm.com

S c o r e

C

H

E

C

K

L

I

S

T

T

H

E

everything you need to

eat, read, buy, and lick this month

e m b r ac e

Cephalopod ManiaWith chefs everywhere name-

checking montereys and port

judiths, one thing is clear: 2014

is the summer of squid. Chef

michael cimarusti cooks more

than 200 pounds a week at

connie and ted’s in Los angeles;

jeremy Sewall of boston’s

row 34 pairs it with pea-greens

pesto and Fresno chiles.

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P h o t o g r a P h s b y d a n n y k i m28 bonappetit.com • june 2014

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6 a.m.

Wake up early

and spend the

morning reading

The New Yorker

in my seersucker

Sleepy Jones

pajamas ($293;

sleepyjones.com).

10 a.m.

You shouldn’t

have! My family

gives me a Garmin

Forerunner 620

watch ($450; garmin

.com), and it’s of

for a run over the

Brooklyn Bridge.

7:30 a.m.

Watch ESPN

SportsCenter while

my daughters make

me biscuits stufed

with jimmy Dean

sausage (judge

away!) and slathered

with honey butter.

NooN

A picnic in the park

with my ladies. It

includes pimiento

cheese sandwiches,

grandma utz’s

potato chips, Ibérico

de bellota ham, and

Basque dry cider.

My Perfect Father’s Day

For 364 days of the year, I’m at the mercy

of my family and career. But there’s one day I get to do exactly

what I want. Here’s how it should go down

2 p.m.

Go biking

with my older

daughter, julep,

on her new Linus.

3 p.m.

Chill in a hammock on the Chattahoochee,

while listening to a Braves game on the radio.

But wait—this is Brooklyn. A patch of

park grass and a Mets game will have to do.

5 p.m.

Back at home, crack some ice for a

50-50 Martini: half gin, half dry vermouth,

a few drops of orange bitters, and a

grapefruit twist. Always stir, never shake.

5:30 p.m.

The ultimate

Father’s Day feast?

Pan-fried chicken

from The Gift

of Southern Cooking,

Anson Mills white

hominy grits, my

mom’s green beans,

buttery mashed

potatoes, more

biscuits, and spicy

pickled okra.

7 p.m.

Build Lego tree

houses with my kids

and then read them

james thurber’s

Many Moons. We all

fall asleep together.

9 p.m.

Wake up. Binge

on season four of

Game of Thrones.

midNight

Fall asleep again,

this time on the

couch—just like my

dad does.

This baby tracks

distance, heart rate, route, and

calories burned.

The Lil’ Dutchi ($319;

linusbike.com)

These beans should be

superporky and slow-cooked

until soft. ph

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FOODISTThe

Follow Andrew Knowlton on Instagram @andrewoknowlton

dad edition

To get Donna Knowlton’s green

beans recipe, go to bonappetit.com

/greenbeans


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P h o t o g r a P h b y m i c h a e l g r a y d o n + n i k o l e h e r r i o t t

All the Buzz

What happens when baristas and

bartenders get together? Coffee

cocktails, that’s what. here, three

of summer’s coolest, most cafeinated

concoctionsby Joanna Sciarrino

Every great cofee cocktail starts with an excellent cold brew. Hats of to Kickstand in L.A. and Slingshot Cofee Company in Raleigh, NC, but our favorite comes from Stumptown. The

bicoastal roaster wins hearts with its double-

filtered, ready-to-drink “stubbies”—no dilution necessary.

$4 for 12 oz.; stumptowncofee

.com for stores

cold

comfort

Prefer D.I.Y. cold brew? Get

the recipe at bonappetit.com

/coldbrew

Don’t be afraid to customize this cocktail.

Soy milk, almond milk, half-and-

half—it all works.

Dublin Iced Cofee

Soda & Swine,

San diego

A delicious mix

of caffeine,

dessert, and

danger.

Mix 2 oz. strong

cold-brew cofee,

2 oz. stout

(such as AleSmith

Speedway or

guinness), 1 ½ oz.

Irish whiskey,

and ¾ oz. simple

syrup in a highball

glass. Add ice to

fill. Gently pour in

½ oz. heavy cream

so it gradually

sinks into cofee;

sprinkle with

freshly grated

cinnamon.

Makes 1

Cafè Shakerato

BA teSt Kitchen

To take this

Italian classic in a

mocha direction,

add 1 oz. choco-

late syrup (we

like Monin brand

best) and cut

down the simple

syrup to ½ oz.

Combine 2 oz.

strong cold-brew

cofee and 1 oz.

simple syrup in

a cocktail shaker.

Fill shaker with

ice and shake

vigorously (this

is important;

you really want to

agitate the cofee)

until outside is

frosty and drink

is light and frothy,

about 1 minute.

Strain into

a small tumbler.

Makes 1

Alive and Kicking

Planter’S houSe,

St. louiS

For a simplified

version, skip

the Fernet and

increase the

amaro to 1 ¾ oz.

Combine

1 oz. strong cold-

brew cofee,

1 oz. Fernet, ¾ oz.

amaro (preferably

barolo chinato),

¾ oz. Compass

Box Whisky Co.

Orangerie or Grand

Marnier, and ¼ oz.

demerara simple

syrup in a cocktail

shaker. Fill shaker

with ice and shake

vigorously until

outside is frosty,

about 30 seconds.

Strain into a coupe

glass. Garnish with

an orange twist.

Makes 1

The Drink

P h o t o g r a P h s b y c h r i s t i n a h o l m e s JUNE 2014 • boNappEtit.com 35

W h a t t o c o o k r i g h t n o W : r e c i p e s , t i p s , a n d m e n u i d e a s f r o m o u r e x p e r t s

BA

F a s t , E a s y, F r E s h

Kick of your summer with steak tacos brightened by a crunchy new salsa, and speedy scallops with burst tomatoes

B y A l i s o n R o m A n

S i m p l y S u m m e r

To char tortillas, warm

them over a grill or stove-top gas burner. For the taco recipe,

see page 40.

36 boNappEtit.com • JUNE 2014

FA sT, E A sy, F R E s H

W e e k n i g h t f a v o r i t e s

Crushed Beets with Lemon Vinaigretteactive 30 minutes total 1 hour 20 minutes

4 servings This two-part cooking

technique adds layers of texture—a

creamy inside and a crisp outside.

2 lb. mixed small or medium beets

(such as chioggia, red, and/or

golden), scrubbed

6 tbsp. olive oil, divided, plus more


2 tbsp. finely grated lemon zest

2 tbsp. fresh lemon juice

¼ cup (lightly packed) fresh mint

leaves, plus more

2 tbsp. torn fresh dill, plus more

½ cup labneh (lebanese strained

yogurt) or plain greek yogurt

Flaky sea salt (such as maldon)

Preheat oven to 400°. Divide beets

between 2 large sheets of foil. Drizzle

beets on each sheet with ½ Tbsp. oil;

season with kosher salt and pepper and

wrap up foil around beets. Roast on a

rimmed baking sheet until tender, 40–50

minutes. Let cool slightly, then, using a

paper towel, rub skins from beets (they

should slip of easily). Crush beets with

the bottom of a small bowl (it’s alright if

they fall apart).

Meanwhile, whisk lemon zest, lemon

juice, and 2 Tbsp. oil in a large bowl; set

vinaigrette aside.

Heat 3 Tbsp. oil in a large skillet over

medium-high heat. Add beets, season with

kosher salt and pepper, and cook until

browned, about 4 minutes per side. Transfer

to bowl with vinaigrette, add ¼ cup mint

and 2 Tbsp. dill, and toss to coat. Serve

beets and dollops of labneh drizzled with

more oil, topped with more herbs,

and seasoned with pepper and sea salt.

calories 300 fat 22 g fiber 7 g »

wE’vE got a crush

For a totally new take on beets, just smash ’em. The flat surface gets nice and crispy in a hot skillet

A swoosh of luscious (and trendy) labneh adds

richness.for complEtE NUtritioNal

iNformatioN for thE rEcipEs iN this

story, go to bonappetit.com/recipes


Scallops with Hazelnuts and Warm Sun Gold Tomatoesactive 20 minutes total 20 minutes

4 servings See Prep School on page 110

for a mini-primer on searing scallops.

¼ cup coarsely chopped skin-on

hazelnuts

3 tbsp. olive oil, divided


1 ½ lb. large sea scallops, side muscle

removed, patted dry

1 pint sun gold or grape tomatoes

1 small shallot, finely chopped

1 tbsp. white wine vinegar

2 tbsp. fresh tarragon leaves

Preheat oven to 350°. Toast hazelnuts on a

rimmed baking sheet, tossing occasionally,

until golden brown, 8–10 minutes. Toss with

1 Tbsp. oil; season with salt and pepper.

L i g h t n i n g - Fa st d i n n E r s

It’s too nice out to spend all day at the stove. Choose quick-cooking proteins like scallops and skirt steak, then add summer’s best ingredients

Meanwhile, heat remaining 2 Tbsp. oil

in a large cast-iron or nonstick skillet over

medium-high heat until almost smoking.

Season scallops with salt and pepper; cook

until golden brown and just cooked through,

about 3 minutes per side. Transfer to a plate.

Pour of most liquid in skillet. Add tomatoes

and shallot, season with salt and pepper,

and cook, tossing, until some tomatoes have

burst, about 4 minutes. Mix in vinegar and

serve with scallops topped with tarragon and

hazelnuts. calories 310 fat 16 g fiber 2 g

Steak Tacos with Cilantro-Radish Salsaactive 20 minutes total 20 minutes

4 servings Radishes make a crunchy salsa

for these—or any other taco you’re serving

this summer. Our farmers’ market guide to

radish varieties is in Prep School on page 108.

2 tbsp. vegetable oil, divided

1 lb. skirt or flank steak


½ cup fresh cilantro leaves with tender

stems, divided

4 radishes, trimmed, chopped

2 spring onions or 4 scallions,

white and pale-green parts only,

thinly sliced

½ serrano chile or jalapeño, seeds

removed if desired, finely chopped

2 tbsp. fresh lime juice

8 corn tortillas, warmed

2 oz. queso fresco or cotija cheese,

crumbled

Heat 1 Tbsp. oil in a large skillet over high

heat. Season steak with salt and pepper and

cook about 5 minutes per side for medium-

rare. Let steak rest 5 minutes.

Meanwhile, chop half of cilantro and

toss with radishes, onions, chile, lime juice,

and remaining 1 Tbsp. oil in a medium bowl.

Season radish salsa with salt and pepper.

Slice steak and serve on tortillas

topped with radish salsa, queso fresco, and

remaining cilantro.

calories 440 fat 21 g fiber 3 g

A very short shopping

list morphs into a very

elegant meal.



Green Minestrone

active 30 minutes total 30 minutes

4 servings Adding the veggies in phases,

from longest cooking first to fastest

last, guarantees the ideal texture for each.

6 tbsp. olive oil, divided

1 leek, white and pale-green parts

only, chopped

½ small fennel bulb, finely chopped

½ small yellow onion, finely chopped

2 celery stalks, thinly sliced

4 cups low-sodium vegetable or

chicken broth

2 small carrots, peeled, thinly sliced

lengthwise on a mandoline

1 cup fresh shelled peas or fava

beans (from about 1 lb. pods)

or frozen


½ cup fregola, ditalini, or other

tiny pasta

1 ½ cups (lightly packed) fresh flat-leaf

parsley leaves

½ shallot, finely chopped

2 red pearl onions or ¼ small red

onion, thinly sliced

shaved Parmesan (for serving)

Heat 2 Tbsp. oil in a large heavy pot

over medium heat. Cook leek, fennel, yellow

onion, and celery, stirring occasionally,

until softened but not taking on any color,

about 5 minutes. Add broth; bring to a boil,

reduce heat, and simmer until vegetables

are just tender, 10–15 minutes.

Add carrots and peas and simmer until

carrots are just tender, about 5 minutes;

season with salt and pepper.

Meanwhile, cook pasta in a large pot of

boiling salted water, stirring occasionally,

until al dente. Drain and add pasta to soup.

While pasta is cooking, process parsley

and remaining 4 Tbsp. oil in a food processor

to a coarse paste, transfer to a small bowl,

and mix in shallot. Season pesto with salt

and pepper. Serve soup topped with pesto,

pearl onions, and Parmesan.

calories 340 fat 22 g fiber 5 g

a s o u p Fo r s u m m E r

Loads of market produce and bright herbs give classic minestrone a seasonal twist

Our super- green soup was

inspired by Rosemary’s in

New York.



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P h o t o g r a P h s b y h i r s h e i m e r & h a m i l t o n44 bonappetit.com • JUne 2014

T H E S E A S O N A L COO KS

S a l a d d a y S

Local lettuces are finally rearing their heads this month. The Seasonal Cooks show you four ways to dress them for dinner

b y m e l i s s a h a m i l t o n a n D c h r i s t o p h e r h i r s h e i m e r

Crisp-tender lettuce with

Lemon-Anchovy Vinaigrette.

Turn the page for the recipe.

Early last month, when the earth had warmed up but the air was still cool, we scattered tiny lettuce seeds in our gardens. Now we’re harvesting the tender leaves, along with the sorrel and wild arugula that come back every year. Add to that the lettuces of every variety that we gather from our local farmstands and markets (not to mention the bunches brought by friends), and we begin to satisfy our annual jones for a good salad.

The leaves we love ofer the trinity of vitality, texture, and favor. We take care to choose a dressing that complements them, rather than overwhelms. For example, we serve thick, creamy dressings like Green Goddess on hardy, tight-headed lettuces that can hold the weight,

and thinner dressings and vinaigrettes on sturdy and delicate leaves alike.

When it comes to making a basic vinaigrette, these are our building blocks: We like an oil-to-acid ratio of 4:1, and use lemon juice, vinegar (sometimes rice; seldom balsamic), even soy sauce for acid. (As for that ratio, we want the acid to just lif up the vinaigrette from being oily. We don’t want pushback from it!) Experiment to create your own house vinaigrette. Just remember: It’s worth the splurge for top-quality extra-virgin olive oil because it carries the other favors.

Also remember that really good dressing can be almost efortless: We make what we’ve come to call our Canal House Classic Vinaigrette right in the bottom of

a well-loved wooden bowl. First we grate a clove of garlic into a pungent paste, adding salt and pepper for seasoning and grit. Next, in goes a dollop of Dijon and a splash of red wine vinegar. Then we drizzle in our very best olive oil, whisking until the dressing emulsifes. A taste tells us if it needs more oil or vinegar. Once the balance is right, we cross serving spoons in the bowl and pile the lettuces on top; this holds the greens above the dressing until it’s time to toss it all together.

A few years ago, we cooked a big-deal meal for an illustrious food writer. At the end of the evening, our knowing guest of honor thanked us, noting, “That salad was simply delicious.” We took it as the highest compliment.


Canal House Classic Vinaigretteactive 5 minutes total 5 minutes

Makes about ½ cup Make this once with

measuring spoons and cups; the next time,

just eyeball it, adjusting any or all of the

ingredients to suit your palate. Then you can

call it your classic.

1 small garlic clove, finely grated

2 Tbsp. red wine vinegar

2 tsp. Dijon mustard

½ cup olive oil


Whisk garlic, vinegar, and mustard in a small

bowl. Gradually whisk in oil until emulsified;


Do aheaD: Dressing can be made 2 days

ahead. Transfer to a jar; cover and chill.

Simplest Asian Dressingactive 5 minutes total 5 minutes

Makes about ½ cup The delicate flavor

of rice vinegar along with the other Asian

ingredients in this vinaigrette is ideal

on tender greens like mizuna or mâche.

½ small garlic clove, finely grated

1 Tbsp. reduced-sodium soy sauce

2 tsp. unseasoned rice vinegar

½ cup olive oil

½ tsp. toasted sesame oil


Whisk garlic, soy sauce, and vinegar in a

small bowl. Gradually whisk in olive oil, then

sesame oil (dressing will thicken slightly);




Lemon-Anchovy Vinaigrette active 5 minutes total 5 minutes

Makes about ⅔ cup A lighter, brighter

option for all you Caesar salad lovers.

2 lemons

4 anchovy fillets packed in oil,

drained, finely chopped

½ cup olive oil

¼ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes


Cut all peel and white pith from lemons;

discard. Working over a medium bowl, cut

t h e s e a s o n a l c o o ks

B e s t - d r e s s e d s a l a d

lemons along sides of membranes to release

segments into bowl. Squeeze in juice

from membranes and discard membranes.

Mix in anchovies, oil, and red pepper

flakes, breaking up lemon segments against

the side of the bowl with a spoon; season

with salt and pepper.



Canal House Green Goddess Dressingactive 5 minutes total 5 minutes

Makes about ¾ cup This is

equally good drizzled over hard-boiled

eggs or with crudité for dipping.

½ bunch watercress, tough stems

removed, coarsely chopped

(about 2 cups)

4 anchovy fillets packed in oil, drained

½ cup mayonnaise

2 Tbsp. sour cream

½ cup (lightly packed) fresh flat-leaf

parsley leaves


2 Tbsp. chopped fresh tarragon

1 Tbsp. white wine vinegar


Purée watercress, anchovies, mayonnaise,

sour cream, parsley, chives, tarragon, and

vinegar in a blender until smooth; season




Washing,

drying, and

storing SalaD GreenS

Wash as soon as we

get home from the

market, we pick through

loose-leaf greens and

pull apart head lettuces,

discarding any leaves

that are tough or

blemished. We gently

swish the greens in

a large bowl of cold

water, allowing any dirt

to settle to the bottom,

lifting the leaves out

of the water, repeating

until the leaves are clean.

Dry Sometimes we use

a salad spinner, but it

can bruise the leaves. We

prefer to lay the damp

lettuce on a clean dish

towel, gently roll it up,

and slip the whole thing

into a big plastic bag.

Store Kept in the

fridge’s crisper, the

greens are ready to use

at a moment’s notice.

They’ll last this way for

up to a week.

Super, simple Four ingredients add up to big flavor in the Lemon-Anchovy Vinaigrette. Just don’t forget the salt and pepper!

48 bonappetit.com • JUne 2014 P h o t o g r a P h s b y J e r e m y l i e b m a n

T H E P A R T Y

W i n n e r , W i n n e r ,

H o t C H i C k e n D i n n e rRestaurants around the country are

featuring the Nashville specialty hot chicken— and with good reason: It’s as delicious

as it is spicy (and it’s very spicy). Local spot hattie b’s shows us how it’s done

T h e

g r e a T e s T

T h i n g s i n c e… do like locals:

serve the chicken

atop sliced soft

white bread.

For Hattie B’s black-eyed pea

salad recipe, go to bonappetit.com /blackeyedpeas

50 bonappetit.com • apRiL 2014

the menu

T H E PA RT Y

h o t C h i C k e n

When folks in nashville say hot,

they mean it. take the local dish,

hot chicken: the meat is dunked in

hot sauce–laced buttermilk, then

fried, its crisp skin lacquered with

cayenne oil. heat seekers devour

white bread to quell the flames.

And then they reach for another

piece. Restaurants like hattie B’s

and Prince’s, the dish’s originator,

know the routine: the first bite

is a challenge, but then the sweet-

salty-spicy alchemy pulls ’em in.

Don’t just stand the heat—revel in it.

Nashville-Style Hot Chickenactive 1½ hours total 4½ hours

8 servings no doubt about it, six

tablespoons of cayenne is a lot, but that’s

what hattie b’s considers “medium.” for a

milder heat, decrease to two tablespoons.

2 3 ½–4-lb. chickens, each cut into

10 pieces (breasts halved)

1 tbsp. freshly ground black pepper

2 tbsp. plus 4 tsp. kosher salt

4 large eggs

2 cups buttermilk or whole milk

2 tbsp. vinegar-based hot sauce

(such as tabasco or texas Pete)

4 cups all-purpose flour

Vegetable oil (for frying; about

10 cups)

6 tbsp. cayenne pepper

2 tbsp. dark brown sugar

1 tsp. chili powder

1 tsp. garlic powder

1 tsp. paprika

White bread and sliced pickles

(for serving)

special equipment: A deep-fry

thermometer

toss chicken with black pepper and

2 tbsp. salt in a large bowl. Cover and chill

at least 3 hours.

Whisk eggs, buttermilk, and hot sauce

in a large bowl. Whisk flour and remaining

4 tsp. salt in another large bowl.

Fit a Dutch oven with thermometer; pour

in oil to measure 2". heat over medium-high

heat until thermometer registers 325°. Pat

chicken dry. Working with 1 piece at a time,

dredge in flour mixture, shaking of excess,

then dip in buttermilk mixture, letting

excess drip back into bowl. Dredge again in

flour mixture and place on a baking sheet.

Working in 4 batches and returning oil to

325° between batches, fry chicken, turning

occasionally, until skin is deep golden brown

and crisp and an instant-read thermometer

inserted into thickest part of pieces registers

160° for white meat and 165° for dark,

15–18 minutes. transfer to a clean wire rack

set inside a baking sheet. Let oil cool slightly.

Whisk cayenne, brown sugar, chili

powder, garlic powder, and paprika in a

medium bowl; carefully whisk in 1 cup frying

oil. Brush fried chicken with spicy oil. Serve

with bread and pickles.

Do aheaD: Chicken can be seasoned

1 day ahead. Keep chilled. »

the Plan

One day ahead

Season chicken with

salt and pepper.

Assemble the banana

pudding (minus

the meringue).

The morning of

Make the slaw. Whisk

dry ingredients for the

chicken’s cayenne mix.

90 minutes

before serving

Start frying! (You

should finish just before

guests arrive.) Keep

chicken warm in

a 250°-degree oven.

Just before serving

Brush chicken with

spicy oil. Right before

dessert, make the

meringue; top pudding.

Nashville-Style Hot Chicken

Classic Coleslaw

Banana Meringue Pudding


fo

od

st

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by

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ian

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Classic Coleslawactive 15 minutes total 15 minutes

8 servings hattie b’s version of this

traditional fried chicken side tastes like

coleslaw should: crunchy, a little creamy,

and with enough vinegar to keep it bright.

best of all: it will help put out the fire.

1 cup mayonnaise

1 ½ tbsp. apple cider vinegar

1 tbsp. honey

¾ tsp. celery seeds

1 tsp. kosher salt

½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper

½ medium green cabbage, very thinly

sliced (about 4 cups)

½ medium red cabbage, very thinly

sliced (about 4 cups)

2 medium carrots, peeled; julienned

or grated

Whisk mayonnaise, vinegar, honey, celery

seeds, salt, and pepper in a large bowl to

combine. Add green and red cabbage and

carrots to dressing and toss to coat. Cover

and chill until ready to serve.

Do aheaD: Coleslaw can be made

8 hours ahead. Keep chilled.

Banana Meringue Puddingactive 45 minutes total 6 hours 45 minutes

(includes chilling)

8 servings to check if your meringue is stif,

lift the beaters out of the bowl and upend

them: the peaks should stick straight up.

puDDing

4 large eggs

⅔ cup sugar

¼ cup cornstarch

4 cups whole milk

2 tbsp. unsalted butter

2 tsp. vanilla extract

Pinch of kosher salt

assembly

1 11-oz. box vanilla wafer cookies

3 ripe bananas, thinly sliced

4 large egg whites

½ cup sugar

puDDing Lightly whisk eggs in a large bowl

just to blend. Whisk sugar and cornstarch

in a medium saucepan. Gradually whisk milk

into sugar mixture and heat over medium

heat, whisking often, until very warm to

the touch. Gradually whisk half of hot milk

mixture into eggs, then whisk egg mixture

back into milk mixture in saucepan.

Cook, whisking constantly, until thickened

and whisk leaves a trail in pudding (it

should be the consistency of mayonnaise),

about 4 minutes. Remove from heat,

add butter, vanilla, and salt and whisk until

butter is melted and mixture is smooth.

Strain pudding through a fine-mesh sieve

into another large bowl. Cover pudding

with plastic wrap, pressing directly onto the

surface. Chill until cool, about 2 hours.

assembly Spread one-third of pudding

evenly in a 2-qt. baking dish. top with half of

cookies and half of bananas. Repeat layers

one more time and top with remaining third

of pudding. Cover and chill at least 4 hours.

Just before serving, heat broiler. Using

an electric mixer on medium speed, beat

egg whites until foamy. With motor running,

gradually add sugar. Increase speed to

medium-high and beat until stif peaks form.

Spoon meringue over pudding and

swirl decoratively. Broil until meringue is

dark brown in spots, about 1 minute.

Do aheaD: Pudding (without meringue)

can be assembled 2 days ahead. Keep chilled.

F i n i s h i n g

T o u c h do-ahead banana

pudding gets a final flourish of toasted

meringue.

T H E PA RT Y

h o t C h i C k e n

56 bonappetit.com • June 2014 P h o t o g r a P h s b y g u n n a r k n e c h t e l

N A V I G A T O Ra glass of house vermouth—an old-school aperitif that’s all the rage again— at Morro Fi.

b a r c e l o n a f o r

t h e P e o P l e

The best bites this food-obsessed city has to ofer used to require reservations and muchos euros.

Today, all you need to do is hit the streets in Sant Antoni, scarf a bomba, and quaf a vermouth

B y G e r a l d i n e C a m p B e l l

58 bonappetit.com • June 2014

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Barcelona has earned international bragging rights for its far-out gastronomy (foams! spheres! airs!), but now down-to-earth and, frankly, more soul-satisfying foods are hitting the tables of the moment. Low-key cafés, ingredient-driven fare, and straightforward presentations are the new norm. The return to simpler food may be the one good thing to come of la crisis. Spain’s economic downturn has Michelin-starred chefs trading tasting menus for tapas bars, beachside shacks, and ice cream shops. And those unfussy cocktails— like G&Ts and vermouth and soda—are back in vogue, too. Here, ten ways to enjoy Barcelona’s modern modest side.

1 Shop Like a Chefla boqueria is still

Barcelona’s best

market—and also its

most touristy. The

earlier in the morning

you get there, the

fewer elbows you’ll

have to throw at

ruthless grandmothers.

How to navigate it:

Skip the center

aisle, where prices are

higher. And if you want

to be mistaken for a

local, take a pass on

the juices and spendy

cut fruit as well.

Order the eggs with

baby squid at El Quim,

the always-packed

stall at the southeast

corner of the market.

Go in the morning or

after 3 p.m. for a seat.

Buy jamón, sliced

superthin, plus

fresh Catalan cheeses

from the Empordà

region, from Joan la

llar del Pernil.

Go outside for

the best vegetables,

but be sure to arrive

well before 2 p.m.,

when the farmers

pack it in for the day.

naviGator

barcelona

for

aDDresses

of the

restaurants

anD hotels

in this

story, see

sourcebooK

on page 111.La Boqueria

Vinçon

Federal

4 Explore the New “It” Hood The working-class

neighborhood of Sant

Antoni, near the tour-

isty Gothic Quarter,

has gone from sleepy

to stylish thanks to the

spate of cafés, bars,

and vintage shops that

have popped up.

Most are concentrated

on the Carrer del

Parlament, including

the Aussie-founded

Federal, which has a

spare, Scandinavian

vibe and a rooftop

terrace. At night, par-

ties spill out onto the

streets. But on mellow

Sunday mornings, you

can grab brunch, read

a book, and wander

the charming streets.

2 Say Buenos Días to BreakfastThe morning spread

at hotel omm—

including plum cake

and anise brioche,

meats and cheeses,

Sicilian blood orange

juice, and made-to-

order eggs—is worth

rousing yourself from

your designer mattress

for. Stick around for

lunch or dinner, too,

as the Roca brothers

(the men behind one

of the world’s top

restaurants, El Celler

de Can Roca, in Girona)

oversee those menus

at this serene property.

3 Tap Your Inner Dalí You can’t legally

bring jamón Ibérico

into the U.S., so

instead consider a

kitschy blow-up ham

from Vinçon. The

design emporium also

has cheap-chic salt

cellars, voodoo doll

toothpick holders, and

all kinds of fun and

functional knickknacks.

Phot

ogra

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(cov

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PROMOT ION

Now Available To Go

Available on the iPad®, Kindle Fire, and NOOK Tablet™

Already a magazine subscriber? For tablet access, download the Bon Appétit

app and enter your subscription number from the mailing label.

Get both the print and digital issues of Bon Appétit

for one great introductory price.

Go to bonappetit.com/go/amazon to subscribe.

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naviGator

barcelona

9 Go GalicianDon’t even try to

tackle the 3,500-label

list at Monvínic, the

ultramodern wine bar,

restaurant, and multi-

lingual library. Instead,

just ask one of the six

sommeliers to recom-

mend a vino tinto from

Galicia. The region,

traditionally known for

its whites, is turning

out surprisingly ele-

gant, complex, and

buzz-generating reds,

from producers includ-

ing Algueira and

Quinta da Muradella.

5 Sip VermouthStylish twentysome-

things have made this

fortified wine their

go-to aperitif. Head to

Morro Fi, a garage-

turned-bar, for the

house vermouth (on

the rocks, with an

orange slice) and salty

snacks like anchovy-

stufed olives and

thick-cut potato chips.

6 Snack in Your Flip-FlopsMake the 15-minute

walk from the city

center to Sant

Sebastià beach, where

la guingueta de la

barceloneta ofers an

elevated rif on the

chiringuito, or snack

bar, thanks to Ferran

Adrià acolyte Carles

Abellán. Think haute

hot dogs (get the New

York, with pickles and

crispy onions) and

pizzas like tomato,

basil, and sardine.

Finish with ice cream

from rocambolesc,

Jordi Roca’s hyper-

inventive gelateria.

7 Drink a Gin TónicaGin and tonics

continue to be an

obsession for the

Spanish, who have put

their own spin on the

classic cocktail. They

serve them in balloon

glasses with giant ice

cubes and creative

garnishes, like tonka

beans and cardamom.

Every bar in town

has a handful of gins,

but grab a stool at

Ideal cocktail bar,

which pairs a vintage

vibe with the most

extensive list around:

some 110 gins and

22 tonics.

8 Eat Where Albert Adrià Is CookingWith five restaurants

in his growing empire,

El Bulli’s former pastry

chef is the hottest—

and most prolific—

cook in town. Ignore

the madcap decor at

the big top–like

tickets and focus on

the procession of

thrilling small plates,

like quivering olive

spheres, paper cones

filled with pufed,

safron-spiced squid

chips, and hollow “air

baguettes” wrapped in

paper-thin slices of

Ibérico ham. It’s the

best example of

Spain’s still-lingering

molecular gastronomy

movement, which

means you’ll need to

book a table here well

in advance.

Ideal Cocktail Bar

10 Have a BallThe bomba is to Barce-

lona tapas bars what

a bagel is to New York

delis. And the best

place to get this deep-

fried, meat-filled

potato ball is at the

tiny, no-frills la cova

Fumada. Go for lunch

and squeeze in beside

the salty old men.

La Cova Fumada

Tickets

La Guingueta de la Barceloneta

Morro Fi

PH

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NK

SUM MER

14 ’

p. 64 The secrets to simple

summer dishes

p. 72 Six new ways to

celebrate salmon

p. 82 Breakfast all day at

L.A.’s coolest café

p. 92 As easy as (sour)

cherry pie

p. 94 The best chef you’ve

never heard of—yet

Meadowood’s

Christopher

Kostow visits

the restaurant’s

culinary garden

with Charlie.


by J u l i a K r a m e r

recipes by a l i s o n r o m a n

photographs by

C h r i sto p h e r t e sta n i

a

ba

p r i

m e r

In summertime, the living is easy—and the cooking should be, too. With market-fresh ingredients peaking left and right, there’s no better time than now (and next month, and the month after that) to blow minds with dishes so simple, you barely even need a recipe

Peach + Burrata + Tarrago

n

Gril

led E

gg

pla

nt

+ R

ico

tta

Sa

lata

+ D

ill

Canta

loupe + Scamorza + Mint

Th

e O

rig

ina

l: T

om

ato

+ M

ozz

are

lla +

Bas

il

Roasted Red Pepper + Feta + Chive

The easiest way

to slice a tomato?

Use a basic

serrated knife. It

does a fine job

cutting through the

delicate skin

and flesh of the

tomato without

smushing it.

Done right, the caprese’s timeless combination of tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, and basil is more than the sum of its parts. That’s

why every component counts: You must seek out the best ingredients, use your fanciest olive oil, and sprinkle on the Maldon and

coarsely ground pepper. Master these essentials and the caprese formula can be endlessly (and brilliantly) adapted, as seen here.

the caprese

pro t

i p p

ro tip

Bean Salad

with lemon

and herBS

Toss 2 cups fresh

cooked shell beans

(such as cannellini

or cranberry) or one

14-oz. can cannellini

beans or chickpeas,

rinsed, 6 oz. green

beans (trimmed,

cut into 1" pieces),

¼ cup fresh parsley

leaves with tender

stems, ¼ cup olive

oil, 3 Tbsp. chopped

fresh chives, 2 Tbsp.

chopped capers,

1 Tbsp. finely grated

lemon zest, 2 Tbsp.

lemon juice, and

½ tsp. Aleppo pepper

or ¼ tsp. crushed

red pepper flakes in

a large bowl; season


6 servings

German Potato

Salad with dill

Cover 2 lb. halved

small waxy potatoes

with cold salted

water, bring to a

boil, and cook until

tender; drain and

transfer to a large

bowl. Meanwhile,

heat ¼ cup olive

oil in a medium

skillet over medium-

high heat. Add

½ chopped onion;

season with salt

and pepper. Cook,

stirring often, until

soft, about

5 minutes. Remove

from heat and mix

in ¼ cup apple cider

vinegar. Add to

potatoes along with

4 sliced scallions,

2 Tbsp. chopped

fresh dill, and 1 tsp.

toasted caraway

seeds and toss,

crushing potatoes

slightly; season with

salt and pepper.

6 servings

Barley,

Fennel, and

Beet Salad

Toss 2 cups cooked

barley (from about

⅔ cup dried), 1 thinly

sliced fennel bulb,

2 thinly sliced small

golden beets,

½ thinly sliced small

red onion, ¼ cup

chopped toasted

almonds, and ¼ cup

torn fresh mint in

a large bowl with

¼ cup olive oil and

3 Tbsp. Sherry

vinegar or red wine

vinegar; season


6 servings

Sweeter vegetables like fennel and beets are delicious ra

w; ju

st be

su

re to

slic

e th

em

thin

ly.

Three picnic essentials join the caprese in the summer salads hall of fame. First we have our go-to grain salad, packed

with crunchy fresh vegetables. Next up: the modern-day, crowd-pleasing potato salad (no mayo, thanks), without which

no barbecue is complete. And last but not least, a dish that captures fresh shell beans’ fleeting season. Potlucks, we’re ready.

the sIDes

The skirt is a

funny-looking steak:

It’s long and

thin, with a grain

that runs crosswise.

Slicing across—

rather than with—

the grain is the

difference between

a chewy bite

and a tender one.

Start at one corner,

making slices

at a 45-degree angle

across the width

of the steak—the

thinner the better.

salt-

and-

pepper

steaK

Cut 1 ½ lb. skirt

steak into 4 pieces;

season with salt

and pepper.

Grill over medium-

high heat until

medium-rare, about

4 minutes per side.

Let rest 5 minutes

before thinly slicing

against the grain.

4 servings

What’s inexpensive, versatile, and crazy tasty? Skirt steak. It also cooks in a flash, which makes it tailor-made for grilling.

One downside: It can be dry if overcooked, so don’t get distracted! Nail the timing and slice it properly, and the results will

be transcendental. And that’s just the first day. Throw an extra steak on the grill and you can dig into leftovers all week long.

the steak

in taCoS

Sauté onions and

crushed red pepper

flakes in a cast-iron

pan—no oil, so they

get all smoky—then

add slices of day-

after skirt steak and

cook until crisp.

in a taGliata

Lay cold slices

of steak atop a bed

of arugula, followed

by good Parm, a

glug of olive oil, and

a squeeze of lemon.

in a SandwiCh

Pile sliced steak

on a grilled baguette

with paprika-spiked

mayo, thinly sliced

onion, and a

mess of fresh herbs.

u s e t h e

l e f t o v e r s

pro t

i p p

ro tip

m

aste

r r

ecip

e

StrawBerry-

GinGer

lemonade

Muddle 3 hulled

strawberries in

a highball glass.

Add 4 oz. Lemon-

Ginger Brew

and stir well. Fill

glass with ice

and garnish with

a lemon slice.

Makes 1

extra-Stormy

dark

and Stormy

Combine 2 oz.

Lemon-Ginger Brew

and 2 oz. dark

rum in a highball

glass filled with ice,

then top of with

club soda. Garnish

with a lime wedge

and candied ginger.

Makes 1

K e e p i t g - r at e db o o z e i t u p

fa r m e r s ’ m a r K e t

a d v i C e

hoW to shop

rule one: try

to shop on a weekday,

when it’s more sane.

rule two: If you

see something unusual

at a stand, ask the

farmer how long it’ll be

around. this might

be the one time you

can get sour cherries!

rule three: Buy

berries and other

delicate fruit last; pack

them carefully on

top or in a separate bag.

there’s nothing

sadder than $20 worth

of smashed peaches.

No, it’s not green juice. It’s Lemon-Ginger Brew, a creation of food and features editor Carla Lalli Music. To make it, she

simmers ginger in water to make a zingy base, then balances it with lemon juice and agave nectar. Mix it with muddled

strawberries for a twist on pink lemonade or add rum to make it a cocktail. Whatever you do, keep a pitcher handy at all times.

the elIxIr

lemon-

ginger brew

Pulse 8 oz. ginger,

peeled and chopped,

in a food processor to a

coarse paste. Bring

ginger and 6 cups water

to a boil in a medium

saucepan; reduce heat

and simmer until

reduced to 3 cups, 30–40

minutes. Strain into a

large jar and mix in

½ cup lemon juice and

⅓ cup agave syrup or

pure maple syrup; add

more lemon juice

or agave, if desired. Let

cool; cover and chill.

Do aheaD: Brew can

be made 2 weeks ahead.

Keep chilled.

Makes about 3½ cups

m

aster

r

ecip

e

So you’re at the farmers’ market, wandering from stall to stall. Everything looks amazing! You buy a bushel of greens, some wacky-

hued tomatoes, a little ricotta from the cheese lady. Then you get home and…um, now what? Pasta is what, but not the heavy, wintry

kind. This is its featherlight cousin, in which the noodles are a canvas upon which your vegetables can find their expression.

the pasta

Spaghetti is

only the beginning:

Try these recipes

with whatever

noodles you like.

For this easy

tomato sauce, we’re

into campanelle

and tubular paccheri.

ZuCChini

and leekS

Cook ½ lb. cavatelli;

drain, reserving

¾ cup cooking liquid.

Meanwhile, heat

¼ cup olive oil in a

large skillet over

medium heat. Add

1 chopped large leek,

white and pale-green

parts only, and

¾ tsp. crushed red

pepper flakes; season


Cook, stirring often,

until soft, about

5 minutes. Add 2

grated large zucchini

and cook, stirring

occasionally, until

soft, about 5 minutes.

Toss in pasta and

cooking liquid; cook

until sauce coats

pasta, about 2

minutes. Toss in

⅓ cup grated

Pecorino. 4 servings

tomatoeS

and

anChovy

Butter

Cook ½ lb. spaghetti;

drain, reserving

½ cup cooking liquid.

Meanwhile, heat

4 Tbsp. unsalted

butter in a large

skillet over medium

heat. Cook 2 anchovy

fillets and 4 sliced

garlic cloves, stirring

often, until

anchovies are broken

down and garlic is

soft, about 4 minutes.

Add 2 lb. quartered

medium tomatoes;

season with salt and

pepper and cook,

stirring occasionally,

until falling apart,

8–10 minutes. Toss

in pasta and cooking

liquid; cook until

sauce coats pasta,

about 2 minutes.

Toss in chopped

tender herbs

(such as flat-leaf

parsley, tarragon,

and/or chives).

4 servings

Corn, GreenS,

and riCotta

Cook ½ lb.

orecchiette; drain,

reserving ¾ cup

cooking liquid.

Meanwhile, cook

2 oz. chopped bacon

in a large skillet

over medium heat,

stirring occasionally,

until brown and crisp,

5–8 minutes. Add

2 cups fresh corn

kernels and cook,

tossing occasionally,

until tender, about

5 minutes. Add 8 cups

chopped Swiss

chard leaves; season


Cook, tossing often,

until wilted, about 5

minutes. Toss

in pasta and cooking

liquid; cook until

sauce coats pasta,

about 2 minutes.

Serve dolloped with

4 oz. ricotta and

topped with

torn fresh basil.

4 servings

pro t

i p p

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Farm

ers

oft

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ell b

ruis

ed o

r soft

tom

atoes (w

hich will w

ork great for this recipe) at a discount—all you have to do is ask.

FO

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S B

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Paletas aren’t just for kids.

To spike these recipes,

add up to 1/3 cup alcohol to

each batch. We like gin

with the blackberry, vodka

with raspberry, and

tequila with cucumber.

For tips on

making ice pops,

see our video at

bonappetit.com

/icepops

BlaCkBerry-tarraGon

PaletaS

Purée 1 ½ pints

blackberries,

1 cup simple syrup,

¼ cup fresh lemon

juice, and 2 Tbsp.

fresh tarragon

leaves until smooth.

Strain through a

fine-mesh sieve into

a large measuring

cup, divide among

ice-pop molds,

insert sticks, and

freeze until solid,

at least 6 hours.

Makes 8

raSPBerry-melon PaletaS

Remove skin and

seeds from half of

a 3-lb. cantaloupe.

Purée flesh with

½ pint fresh

raspberries, 1 cup

simple syrup,

2 Tbsp. fresh lemon

juice, and 2 Tbsp.

unseasoned rice

vinegar until smooth.

Strain through a


a large measuring

cup, divide among

ice-pop molds,

insert sticks, and

freeze until solid,

at least 6 hours.

Makes 8

CuCumBer- lime PaletaS

Purée 1 peeled

large cucumber

(10–12 oz.) with

1 cup simple syrup,

⅓ cup fresh lime

juice, and 1 tsp.

finely grated peeled

ginger until smooth.

Strain through a


a large measuring

cup, divide among

ice-pop molds,

insert sticks, and

freeze until solid,

at least 6 hours.

Makes 8

Pop quiz: what month

are local strawberries

at their peak?

that’s a trick question;

it depends on

where you live. Ange-

lenos might be biting

into juicy berries in

April, while such a thing

is but a glimmer in a

New Yorker’s eye. What

to do? Let the quality

of the produce around

you dictate which

ingredients star in your

recipes—not the

other way around. tear

out these pages and

refer to them through-

out June, July, August,

and early september.

fa r m e r s ’ m a r K e t

a d v i C e

WhAt to BuY

Why do we love Mexican ice pops? Let us count the ways: They’re perfectly cool on a sweltering day; they’re surprisingly

easy to throw together; they highlight the season’s very best produce because they’re made with puréed fresh fruit; and—best

of all—they make people’s eyes light up when you serve them. (You’re just going to have to trust us on that last one.)

the paleta

pro t

i p p

ro tip

p

res

s p

lay

summer

fruit

Crisp

oat topping

Pulse ¾ cup old-

fashioned oats,

⅓ cup all-purpose

flour, ¼ cup light

brown sugar, and

½ tsp. kosher salt

in a food processor

to blend. Pulse in 1

stick cut-up chilled

unsalted butter

until no dry spots

remain. Transfer

to a bowl and work

in ¼ cup old-

fashioned oats with

your fingers.

assembly

Toss 8 cups sliced

stone fruit, berries,

or pitted cherries

with 1 cup sugar,

2 Tbsp. cornstarch,

1 tsp. finely grated

lemon, lime, or

orange zest, 2 Tbsp.

lemon, lime, or

orange juice, and

a pinch of kosher

salt. Transfer

mixture to a 1½-qt.

baking dish, scatter

oat topping over

mixture, place on

a baking sheet,

and bake at 375°

until fruit juices

are bubbling and

topping is golden

brown, 60–70

minutes. Transfer

to a wire rack

and let cool 1 hour.

8 servings

the CrumBle

Try swapping in

unsweetened coconut

flakes, sliced almonds,

chopped pecans, or

sunflower seeds at the

end for all or part

of the ¼ cup of oats.

the FillinG

Mix in a little grated

peeled ginger

(great with cherries),

lemon thyme

(delicious with

berries), or a pinch

of cinnamon.

Whatever you

do, don’t

underbake your

crisp! Pull it

out too soon

and the top will

not brown

perfectly and the

juices will

not thicken.

s w i t C h i t u p

the crIsp

pro t

i p p

ro tip

m

aster

r

ecip

e

If you ever need convincing that simpler is better, behold the warm, bubbly baked fruit dish with a crumbly, crunchy cap

known as the fruit crisp. Master the wondrously light, streusel-like topping, and you can use it throughout summer whether

you have quarts of strawberries, pounds of peaches, or whatever else. Life is complicated; dessert doesn’t have to be.

Wild salmon isn’t

cheap, but it’s worth it.

It’s a fish you can feel

good about eating, and

not just because it’s

delicious. Here are a

few points to consider

next time you’re

making choices at the

fish counter:

In terms of taste, wild

salmon is richer, with

a deeper flavor than

farmed. The absence

of color-boosting dyes

means the vivid orange

flesh you’re looking at

is the real thing. And

that fresh, salty flavor?

It comes from the

ocean, not an added

saline solution.

Like baseball and

tomatoes, salmon has

a season. Most wild

salmon spawn in

summer and are at their

fit, fat, flavorful best

before swimming

upstream to reproduce.

Look for fresh wild

salmon from May

through September.

Out of season, frozen

wild salmon (often

sold thawed) is your

best bet.

Both wild and

farmed salmon are

heart-healthy, rich in

omega-3 fatty acids.

But farmed salmon

can be contaminated

with PCBs, heavy

metals, and pesticide

residue, and carries

plenty of environmental

baggage.

—CREE LEFAVOUR,

AUTHOR, FISH


Smoked Salmon Tartines with Fried Capers

4 s e r v i n g s Find hot-smoked salmon, a

Pacific Northwest delicacy, at specialty

grocers. Erickson’s favorite brand is

available at lokifish.com.

½ small red onion, very thinly sliced

⅔ cup Champagne vinegar or white

wine vinegar

¼ cup vegetable oil

2 Tbsp. capers, rinsed, patted dry

8 slices country-style bread,

toasted or grilled

1 cup crème fraîche


1 lb. hot-smoked salmon, flaked


Olive oil (for drizzling)

Toss onion and vinegar in a small bowl; let

stand at least 1 hour to pickle.

Heat oil in a small skillet over medium-

high heat. Working in 2 batches, fry capers

until opened and crisp, about 30 seconds.

Drain on paper towels.

Spread toasts with crème fraîche and

season with salt and pepper. Top with

smoked salmon, drained pickled red onion,

fried capers, and chives; drizzle with oil.

Do aheaD: Onion can be pickled 1 day

ahead. Cover and chill.

renee reCoMMenDsGo bubbly! Classic Argyle Vintage Brut 2010 ($27) is a good match for the smokiness of the salmon.

Slow-Cooked Salmon with Turnips and Swiss Chard

4 s e r v i n g s This low-heat method is very

gentle, lending the salmon a velvety texture.

4 6-oz. pieces skinless salmon fillet

4 Tbsp. olive oil, divided

1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest

Kosher salt

4 garlic cloves, peeled, smashed

1 ½ lb. small turnips, scrubbed, halved,

quartered if large

Freshly ground black pepper

2 bunches Swiss chard

1 small shallot, finely chopped

¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro

¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf

parsley

1 Tbsp. fresh lime juice

1 tsp. toasted sesame oil

Toasted sesame seeds (for serving)

Preheat oven to 250°. Place salmon in a

large baking dish; drizzle with 2 Tbsp. olive

oil, sprinkle with lemon zest, and gently

rub into flesh. Season with salt and scatter

garlic around. Bake until salmon is medium-

rare (mostly opaque but still slightly

translucent in the center), 30–35 minutes.

Meanwhile, combine turnips, 1 Tbsp. olive

oil, and 1 cup water in a large skillet; season

with salt and pepper. Bring to a simmer,

cover, and cook until turnips are fork-tender,

15–20 minutes. Uncover and cook, tossing

occasionally, until liquid is evaporated and

turnips are golden, 5 minutes.

While turnips are cooking, remove

ribs and stems from Swiss chard leaves.

Thinly slice ribs, stems, and leaves

crosswise. Heat remaining 1 Tbsp. olive

oil in another large skillet over medium-

high heat. Cook shallot and Swiss

chard ribs and stems, stirring often, until

beginning to soften, about 3 minutes.

Add Swiss chard leaves and cook, tossing

often, until leaves are wilted, about

2 minutes. Toss in cilantro, parsley, and

lime juice; season with salt.

Drizzle salmon with sesame oil. Serve

salmon with Swiss chard and turnips,

topped with sesame seeds.

renee reCoMMenDsChoose something acidic and fruity, like

Division-Villages “l’Isle Verte” 2013 Chenin Blanc ($20), produced in Portland, OR,

from Washington State grapes.

Poached Salmon with Artichoke Confit4 s e r v i n g s Both the salmon and the

artichokes are poached in spice- and herb-

infused liquids, adding layers of subtle

aromatic flavor.

vegetables

5 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice, divided

4 artichokes

6 sprigs thyme

4 garlic cloves, peeled

2 bay leaves

1 Tbsp. black peppercorns

3 ½ cups olive oil

½ cup fresh fava beans (from about

½ lb. pods) or frozen, thawed

Kosher salt

½ cup shelled fresh peas (from about

½ lb. pods) or frozen, thawed

¾ cup green olives, coarsely

chopped

½ cup pea shoots (tendrils) or fresh

flat-leaf parsley leaves

with tender stems

½ cup torn fresh mint leaves


salMon anD asseMbly

4 sprigs flat-leaf parsley

4 sprigs dill

1 lemon, thinly sliced

2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

1 cup dry white wine

1 Tbsp. black peppercorns

Kosher salt

4 6-oz. skinless salmon fillets

vegetables Add 3 Tbsp. lemon juice to a

large bowl of cold water. Working with

1 artichoke at a time, remove tough dark

outer leaves. Using a serrated knife, trim top

of artichoke to just above the heart. Trim

stem, leaving about 1" intact. Using a paring

knife or vegetable peeler, remove dark outer

layer from stem. Halve artichoke lengthwise

and scoop out choke with a spoon. Transfer

artichoke to lemon water to prevent

discoloration.

Drain artichokes; pat dry. Cook with thyme,

garlic, bay leaves, peppercorns, and oil in a

large saucepan over medium heat until oil

around artichokes is bubbling. Reduce heat

and cook, turning artichokes occasionally,

until stems are tender when pierced with a

knife, 15–20 minutes; let cool in oil.

Meanwhile, if using fresh fava beans,

cook in a medium saucepan of boiling salted

water until tender, about 4 minutes. Using a

slotted spoon, transfer to a colander set in a

bowl of ice water. Drain and peel; place in a

large bowl. (If using frozen fava beans, cook

2 minutes; do not peel.)

Return water in saucepan to a boil; add

peas and cook until tender, about 2 minutes.

Drain; transfer to colander in ice water. Drain

and add to bowl with fava beans.

Using a slotted spoon, transfer artichokes

to bowl with peas and fava beans. Add ¼ cup

artichoke cooking oil, olives, pea shoots,

mint, and remaining 2 Tbsp. lemon juice; toss

and season with salt and pepper.

Do aheaD: Artichokes can be poached

1 day ahead. Keep in oil; cover and chill.

salMon anD asseMbly Bring parsley,

dill, lemon slices, lemon juice, wine,

peppercorns, and 3 cups water to a simmer

in a large saucepan over medium heat;

season with salt. Add salmon; cover. Reduce

heat and simmer gently until just opaque

throughout, 6–8 minutes. Using a large

spatula, remove salmon and lemon slices

from poaching liquid. Serve salmon with

artichoke salad and lemon slices.

renee reCoMMenDsTry the dry Whidbey Island Winery 2012 Madeleine

Angevine ($17), made just of Puget Sound.

Chinook

Also known as king, its nicely fatty flesh is

ideal for slow-roasting.

SoCkeye

Sometimes called red salmon, it has vibrant

red-orange flesh and a profound flavor

that stands up well to assertive seasonings.

Another reason to choose wild salmon: the wonderful variety available. Here are the five types of Pacific salmon—and what to do with them:

Coho

More subtle in flavor and texture

than other types, it’s a smaller fish, making it

great for roasting or grilling whole.

Pink

It has a lower fat content and is mostly

available canned. If you find fillets, grill them.

Chum

Sometimes labeled dog or keta salmon, it’s

prized for its roe. The comparatively

low oil content of its delicately flavored

flesh means it’s better for smoking

or for quick-cooking methods that won’t dry

it out, like pan-searing and grilling.

—JOAnnA SCIARRInO

P. 78

Photographs shot at Four Winds * Westward

Ho Camp in Deer Harbor, Washington.

JUne 2014 • bonappetit.com 81

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Butter-Basted Salmon

with Hazelnut Relish 4 s e r v i n g s Cooking the salmon skin side

down maximizes its crispy potential; brown

butter carries nutty flavor into the flesh.

½ cup blanched hazelnuts

1 garlic clove, chopped

1 cup (packed) fresh cilantro leaves

with tender stems

½ cup (packed) fresh flat-leaf parsley

leaves with tender stems

1 Tbsp. capers

1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest

½ cup olive oil

Kosher salt

1 Tbsp. vegetable oil

4 6-oz. pieces skin-on salmon fillets

2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into

pieces

2 heads Little Gem or other small

lettuce, leaves separated

Preheat oven to 400°. Toast hazelnuts on a

rimmed baking sheet, tossing occasionally,

until golden brown, 6–8 minutes. Let cool.

Pulse garlic, cilantro, parsley, capers,

lemon zest, and ¼ cup hazelnuts in a food

processor until finely chopped. With machine

running, gradually add olive oil; season relish

with salt. Coarsely chop remaining hazelnuts.

Heat vegetable oil in a large ovenproof

skillet over medium-high heat. Season

salmon with salt and cook, skin side down,

until skin is crisp (do not disturb), about

4 minutes. Add butter and cook, basting

constantly, 1 minute. Transfer to oven and

roast salmon, basting once, until medium-

rare (mostly opaque but still slightly

translucent in the center), about 3 minutes.

Serve salmon, skin side up, with lettuce,

topped with relish and chopped hazelnuts.

Do aheaD: Relish can be made 6 hours

ahead. Cover and chill.

renee reCoMMenDsPick a wine that can match the brightness of the

relish, like the Cristom 2013 Pinot Gris ($19).

Roasted Salmon with Potatoes

and Herbed Crème Fraîche4 s e r v i n g s Crème fraîche delivers tang

along with creamy butterfat to this

deconstructed salad; Greek yogurt can be

substituted if you wish.

Potatoes

1 ½ lb. small waxy potatoes, scrubbed

Kosher salt

2 Tbsp. olive oil

salMon anD asseMbly

1 1 ½-lb. piece skin-on salmon

1 Tbsp. olive oil, plus more for

drizzling

Kosher salt

½ cup crème fraîche

2 Tbsp. chopped fresh chives, dill,

and/or tarragon, plus tarragon

and dill sprigs for serving

2 radishes, trimmed, thinly sliced

Potatoes Place potatoes in a medium

saucepan and add cold water to cover by 1";

season with salt. Bring to a boil, reduce heat,

and simmer until tender, 15–20 minutes;

drain and pat dry. Let cool slightly, halve

potatoes and toss with oil; season with salt.

salMon anD asseMbly Preheat oven to

400°. Place salmon, skin side down, on a

parchment-lined rimmed baking sheet; rub

with 1 Tbsp. oil and season with salt. Roast

until medium-rare (mostly opaque but still

slightly translucent in the center), 10–15

minutes. Break up salmon into pieces,

removing skin if desired.

Whisk crème fraîche and chopped herbs

in a small bowl; season with salt.

Spread herbed crème fraîche on plates

and top with salmon, potatoes, radishes,

and tarragon and dill sprigs; drizzle with oil.

renee reCoMMenDsFor a rich dish like this, Erickson likes àMaurice

Cellars 2012 Columbia Valley Viognier ($28), a white with hints of honey from one of

her favorite local wineries.

Cured Salmon with

Fennel and Carrot Salad1 2 s e r v i n g s Weighing down the salmon

fillet with heavy cans as it cures

will press excess liquid out of the flesh

to ensure a firm texture.

salMon

1 ¼ cups kosher salt

½ cup sugar

½ cup chopped fennel fronds

¼ cup gin or aquavit

1 1 ½-lb. piece skin-on salmon fillet

salaD anD asseMbly

2 medium carrots, peeled, very

thinly sliced

1 medium fennel bulb, very thinly

sliced, plus 1 Tbsp. chopped

fennel fronds

1 lemon, very thinly sliced

3 Tbsp. olive oil


Kosher salt

1 cup plain Greek yogurt

Fennel flowers or fennel pollen

(optional)

sa l M o n Mix salt, sugar, fennel fronds, and

gin in a medium bowl (mixture should feel

like wet sand). Spread half of salt mixture in

a shallow baking dish. Place salmon on top

and cover with remaining salt mixture.

Press a sheet of plastic wrap over salmon

and place a smaller dish or heavy pan on top

(it should be small enough to fit inside the

dish so it rests directly on top of salmon).

Add a couple of heavy cans to empty baking

dish to weigh down salmon. Chill, turning

occasionally, until flesh is firm and slightly

darkened in color, 1–2 days. Rinse salmon

and pat dry.

Do aheaD: Salmon can be cured 1 week

ahead. Tightly wrap and chill.

salaD anD asseMbly Toss carrots, fennel

bulb, and lemon slices with oil and lemon

juice in a large bowl; season with salt and

let sit at room temperature until slightly

softened, about 30 minutes.

Thinly slice cured salmon at an angle

against the grain.

Season yogurt with salt, spread on

plates, and top with cured salmon, fennel

and carrot salad, fennel fronds, and fennel

flowers, if using.

renee reCoMMenDsYou want a dry and citrusy wine,

like the Syncline 2013 Picpoul ($20).

In case we haven’t made ourselves clear, we love wild salmon. But we’re fans

of other tasty, responsibly sourced fish, too. One way to find them: Join a

CSF, the fish-filled sibling of the CSA (you know, where members get boxes of

produce). A community-supported fishery membership will get you a regular

supply of fresh seafood, caught locally using sustainable practices. Your

subscription supports small-scale fisheries and helps keep your seafood from

being sourced from abroad. To find a CSF near you, visit localcatch.org. —J.S.

L.A.’s SqirL is more than a café

but not quite a restaurant,

serving the kind of breakfast

(brioche toast with ricotta and

small-batch jam) and lunch (rice bowls and “Kabbouleh”!)

that we want to eat all day long

by

m at t d u c ko r

photographs by

m i c h a e l g r ay d o n

+ n i ko l e h e r r i ot t


Chicken Salad with Crème Fraîche and rye4 servings We’d serve this dressed-down

chicken salad for brunch, pack it

for lunch, or make it as a light dinner on

a hot summer night.

1 large skin-on, bone-in chicken

breast (12–14 oz.)

4 Tbsp. olive oil, divided


¾ cup fresh fava beans (from about

¾ lb. pods) or frozen, thawed

½ small fennel bulb, thinly sliced

1 scallion, thinly sliced

2 Tbsp. coarsely chopped fresh

tarragon

1 Tbsp. Sherry vinegar

or red wine vinegar

½ cup crème fraîche

½ small English hothouse cucumber,

very thinly sliced lengthwise

on a mandoline

¼ cup flat-leaf parsley leaves

½ tsp. finely grated lemon zest

2 tsp. fresh lemon juice

8 slices Danish rye bread or

other dense health bread,

toasted if desired


Preheat oven to 425°. Place chicken on

a small rimmed baking sheet and rub with

1 Tbsp. oil; season with kosher salt and

pepper. Roast until golden brown and

cooked through, 25–30 minutes. Let cool,

then shred into bite-size pieces.

If using fresh fava beans, cook in a large

saucepan of boiling salted water until

tender, about 4 minutes. Drain and transfer

to a bowl of ice water. Drain and peel.

(If using frozen fava beans, cook 2 minutes;

transfer to a bowl of ice water, then drain.)

Toss in a large bowl with fennel, scallion,

tarragon, vinegar, chicken, and remaining

3 Tbsp. oil; season with kosher salt, pepper,

and more vinegar, if desired.

Meanwhile, whisk crème fraîche in a

medium bowl to soft peaks (it will look flufy);

season with kosher salt.

Toss cucumber with parsley, lemon zest,

and lemon juice in a small bowl; season

with kosher salt and pepper.

Serve chicken salad with bread,

cucumber, and a dollop of crème fraîche,

topped with sea salt and more pepper.

Do aheaD: Chicken can be cooked

2 days ahead; cover and chill. Shred just

before using. Fava beans can be cooked

2 days ahead; cover and chill.

Sorrel rice Bowls with Poached Eggs4 servings This “put an egg on it” dream

dish is a must-order menu item at Sqirl.

If using kale, you may want to add more

lemon juice to mimic sorrel’s tart sharpness.

2 cups short-grain brown rice

Kosher salt

1 cup (lightly packed) sorrel or kale

leaves (ribs removed, if using kale)

¼ cup olive oil


1 Tbsp. distilled white vinegar

4 large eggs

1 large watermelon radish or 2 red

radishes, very thinly sliced

2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice, divided

½ preserved lemon, flesh removed,

peel finely chopped

1 Tbsp. chopped fresh dill, plus

more for serving

2 oz. feta, preferably sheep’s milk,

crumbled

Hot sauce


Cook rice in a large pot of boiling salted

water until tender, 45–50 minutes.

Drain rice, return to pot, cover, and let

sit 10 minutes. Spread out on a baking

sheet and let cool completely.

Purée sorrel, oil, and 1 Tbsp. water

in a food processor until smooth; season


Meanwhile, bring 2" water to a boil in a

large saucepan; reduce heat so water is at a

gentle simmer and add vinegar. Crack an egg

into a small bowl, then gently slide egg into

water. Repeat with remaining eggs, waiting

until whites are opaque before adding the

next (about 30 seconds apart). Poach until

whites are set and yolks are still runny, about

3 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer

eggs to paper towels as they are done.

Toss radish with 1 Tbsp. lemon juice in a

small bowl; season with kosher salt.

Toss rice, preserved lemon, 1 Tbsp. dill,

remaining 1 Tbsp. lemon juice, and ⅓ cup

sorrel purée in a medium bowl; season with

kosher salt and pepper and mix in more

sorrel purée, if desired.

Serve sorrel rice topped with poached

eggs, radish, feta, hot sauce, more dill,

and sea salt.

Do aheaD: Rice can be cooked 2 days

ahead; cover and chill. Sorrel purée can

be made 2 days ahead; cover and chill.

Bring rice and purée to room temperature

before serving.

the beginning, there was toast.

Specifically, slices of burnt brioche,

topped with homemade ricotta and

spread to the very edges with small-

batch jam in flavors like strawberry–

rose geranium. And with that, Jessica

Koslow turned a year’s kitchen

experience (followed by a three-year

stint as a producer for American

Idol) into Sqirl. What began in 2011

as an upstart preserves operation

quickly spawned a sliver of a café

serving breakfast and lunch in Silver

Lake, Los Angeles’s neighborhood

du jour. Suddenly, people were

waiting 20 minutes for that toast—in

carbophobic L.A.!—forming a literal

breadline to the tiny storefront.

And they kept coming back for

dishes that, at the time, didn’t exactly

come of as crowd-pleasers on paper:

a brown-rice bowl with sorrel pesto

and preserved Meyer lemon; Danish

rye topped with chicken and favas;

and “Kabbouleh,” the vegetal equivalent

of a viral video. But Koslow’s dishes

managed to galvanize the very narrow

crossover of food writers and L.A. salad

obsessives. Turns out that in her hands,

breakfast and lunch are what people

want to eat all day long. (Cookies, too.)

So, why no dinner service? “Breakfast

is the natural progression of the jam,”

explains Koslow, 33, who also saw

an opportunity to bring “an expertise

and desire for experimentation into

meals that don’t necessarily have it.”

For her bravery to go beyond eggs

Benedict, she received four stars

from LA Weekly, among other raves.

Even when many chefs have traded

pork kidneys for kale, the vegetable-

focused menu that Koslow changes

daily stands out. She and chef de

cuisine Ria Dolly Barbosa Wilson might

take something that she refers to

as “grandma-traditional,” like ricotta

cavatelli, execute it perfectly, and then

elevate it to the realm of greatness

by, say, grating cured emu egg yolk

on top. It’s a high-low mix she likens to

wearing H&M with an Hermès watch.

Koslow will soon extend her reach

into another storefront, where she’ll

sell what she calls picnic provisions.

Sqirl still won’t serve dinner, but its

fans—of which there are many here

at BA—will happily eat lunch (and toast)

for dinner if Koslow’s at the stove.

gUtter

what’s the

secret to

sqirl’s most

popular dish?

Start with thin

slices of brioche,

and toast

until extra dark.

Then slather

homemade ricotta

and jam to the

very edges. Knife

and fork definitely

required.

People wait 20 minutes for Sqirl’s toast, forming a literal breadline to the tiny storefront.

gUtter

lemon cake

with raspberries

and pistachios

P. 9 1

black

sesame carrot

cake recipe

at bonappetit

.com/sqirl

clockwise

from top left:

Table-shopping; kale toast;

Koslow on the line; SorrEL

riCE BowL with PoAChEd

Egg (recipe, p. 84); cookie

attack; CriSPy Brown riCE

“KABBouLEh” (recipe, p. 91);

kitchen inspiration board;

server Chloe Godard; LEmon

CAKE with rASPBErriES

And PiStAChioS

(recipe, p. 91); ChiCKEn

SALAd with CrèmE FrAîChE

And ryE (recipe, p. 84);

juicing; rhubarb lemonade.

The breakfast

bar scene.

brown rice

porridge

with hazelnuts

and jam

P. 9 1

in Jessica Koslow’s hands,

breakfast and lunch are what people want to

eat all day long. (Cookies, too.)

carrot

pancakes

with salted

Yogurt

Koslow likens her high-low culinary mix to wearing h&m with an hermès watch.

For more

recipes, go to

BonAPPEtit

.Com/SqirL


about 3 minutes per side. Transfer to

paper towels to drain. Repeat to make

2 more pancakes, adding more oil to

skillet if needed.

Meanwhile, season yogurt with kosher

salt and pepper. Toss greens with lemon

juice and remaining 1 Tbsp. oil; season


Serve carrot pancakes with salad

and salted yogurt, seasoned with sea salt

and more pepper.

Lemon Cake with raspberries and Pistachios

8 s e r v i n g s Choose a mild, not-too-

peppery olive oil for this tender cake;

something fruity will complement

the lemony sweetness, but an assertively

bitter oil will overwhelm.

Nonstick vegetable oil spray

1 ¾ cups all-purpose flour

1 ½ tsp. baking powder

½ tsp. kosher salt

4 large eggs

1 ¼ cups plus 2 Tbsp. sugar

2 tsp. vanilla extract

2 Tbsp. finely grated lemon zest

1 Tbsp. plus ¼ cup fresh lemon juice

¾ cup olive oil

1 cup fresh raspberries

(about 4 oz.)

3 Tbsp. chopped unsalted,

raw pistachios

Preheat oven to 350°. Coat a 9" diameter

cake pan with nonstick spray. Whisk flour,

baking powder, and salt in a small bowl.

Using an electric mixer, beat eggs and

1 cup sugar until light and flufy, about

5 minutes. With mixer running, add vanilla

and 1 Tbsp. lemon juice, then gradually

add oil, mixing just until combined. Fold

in lemon zest and dry ingredients.

Scrape batter into prepared pan and

smooth top. Scatter berries over cake, then

pistachios and 2 Tbsp. sugar. Bake cake

until a tester inserted into the center comes

out clean, 45–55 minutes.

Meanwhile, bring remaining ¼ cup sugar

and remaining ¼ cup lemon juice to a boil

in a medium saucepan, stirring to dissolve

sugar; let lemon syrup cool.

Transfer hot cake (still in pan) to a wire

rack and immediately brush with lemon syrup

(use all of it). Let cake cool completely in pan.

Do aheaD: Cake can be made 2 days

ahead. Store wrapped tightly at room

temperature.

Brown rice Porridge with hazelnuts and Jam

4 s e r v i n g s At Sqirl, they make almond milk

from scratch. You can, too (really):

Visit bonappetit.com/nutmilk for our recipe.

⅓ cup blanched hazelnuts

4 cups unsweetened almond milk

1 cup short-grain brown rice

¼ cup sugar


½ vanilla bean, split lengthwise

¼ cup jam (such as plum, apricot,

or peach)

Preheat oven to 350°. Toast hazelnuts

on a rimmed baking sheet, tossing

occasionally, until golden brown, 8–10

minutes. Let cool, then coarsely chop.

Combine almond milk, rice, sugar,

salt, and 4 cups water in a large saucepan;

scrape in vanilla seeds and add pod.

Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer,

stirring occasionally, until rice is very

tender and mixture resembles loose

rice pudding or oatmeal, 60–70 minutes.

Remove vanilla pod. Serve porridge

topped with jam and hazelnuts.

Carrot Pancakes with Salted yogurt

4 s e r v i n g s With a texture somewhere

between a latke and a pancake, these

vegetarian fritters are also gluten-free.

(Thanks, chickpea flour!)

4 large eggs, beaten to blend

1 lb. carrots (about 8 medium),

peeled, coarsely grated

⅓ cup chopped fresh cilantro

¼ cup chickpea flour


3 Tbsp. (or more) olive oil, divided

1 cup plain whole yogurt

1 cup spicy greens (such as baby

mustard greens, watercress,

or arugula)



Mix eggs, carrots, cilantro, and chickpea

flour in a large bowl (mixture will be loose);

season with kosher salt and pepper.

Heat 2 Tbsp. oil in a large skillet,

preferably cast iron, over medium-high

heat. Scoop two ½-cupfuls of carrot mixture

into skillet, pressing each to ½" thickness.

Cook, rotating skillet occasionally for even

browning, until pancakes are golden brown, Fo

od

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ty

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Crispy Brown rice “Kabbouleh”

4 s e r v i n g s Is it crazy to cook rice, dry

it out, and then deep-fry it? Maybe a little

bit. But when you taste this unique and

addictively crunchy twist on tabbouleh,

you’ll appreciate the efort.

2 Tbsp. dried currants

2 Tbsp. distilled white vinegar

¾ cup short-grain brown rice

Kosher salt

Vegetable oil (for frying;

about 2 cups)

1 ½ cups coarsely chopped

cauliflower florets

½ small bunch curly kale, ribs and

stems removed, leaves coarsely

chopped (about 2 cups)

½ small English hothouse cucumber,

finely chopped

1 scallion, thinly sliced

⅓ cup olive oil

2 tsp. Aleppo pepper or ½ tsp.

crushed red pepper flakes

2 tsp. sumac (optional)


special equipment: A deep-fry

thermometer

Combine currants and vinegar in a small

bowl; let sit at least 2 hours and up to 1 day.

Cook rice in a large saucepan of

boiling salted water until tender, 45–50

minutes. Drain rice, return to pot, cover,

and let sit 10 minutes. Spread out on

a baking sheet; let dry out overnight in

an unlit oven or on countertop.

Fit a medium saucepan with thermometer

and pour in vegetable oil to measure 2". Heat

over medium-high heat until thermometer

registers 350°. Working in 4 batches, cook

rice until golden and pufed, about 1 minute.

Using a fine-mesh sieve, transfer pufed

rice to paper towels to drain; season with

salt and let cool.

Meanwhile, pulse cauliflower in a

food processor until finely chopped. Transfer

to large bowl. Working in batches, pulse

kale in food processor until finely chopped

(be careful not to turn into a purée),

adding to cauliflower as you go. Add

pufed rice, currants with soaking liquid,

cucumber, scallion, olive oil, Aleppo pepper,

and sumac, if using; toss to combine

and season with salt, black pepper, and

more vinegar, if desired.

Do aheaD: Rice can be fried 5 days

ahead. Store airtight at room temperature.

fo

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ad

ba

ile

y.

in a food processor. Add

butter and pulse until mixture

resembles coarse cornmeal.

Whisk egg yolks and ¼ cup

ice water in a small bowl and

drizzle over flour mixture.

Pulse, drizzling in more ice

water as needed, until dough

just comes together (a few

dry spots are okay).

Gently knead dough on a

lightly floured surface until no

dry spots remain, about 1 min-

ute. Divide dough in half and

pat each piece into a disk; wrap

in plastic. Chill at least 2 hours.

Do aheaD: Dough can

be made 3 days ahead. Keep

chilled.

Filling anD assembly Preheat

oven to 425°. Let dough sit

at room temperature to soften

slightly, about 5 minutes. Roll

out 1 disk of dough on a lightly

floured surface to a 12" round.

Transfer to a parchment-lined

baking sheet and chill. Repeat

with remaining disk of dough.

Combine granulated

sugar and lime zest in a large

bowl, rubbing together with

your fingertips to release oils

in zest. Whisk in cornstarch and

salt until there are no lumps

in cornstarch. Add cherries and

toss to coat.

Carefully transfer 1 crust to

a 9" pie dish. Lift up edges and

allow dough to slump down

into dish. Trim edges to even

out crust if needed. Scrape in

cherry filling.

Using a ¾"-diameter pastry

tip or cookie cutter, punch

out holes in remaining crust,

covering an area just smaller

than the diameter of pie

dish.* Place over filling. Fold

edge of top crust underneath

edge of bottom crust and

press together to seal. Crimp

as desired. (Alternatively,

assemble pie, then cut X’s

or slits into crust.)

Brush crust with egg

and sprinkle with demerara

sugar. Chill pie until crust is

firm, 20–30 minutes.

Place pie on a parchment-

or foil-lined baking sheet.

Bake until crust is golden,

about 30 minutes. Reduce

oven temperature to 350°

and bake, tenting with foil if

crust is browning too quickly,

until juices are bubbling and

crust is deep golden brown,

50–60 minutes longer. Transfer

to a wire rack and let cool

at least 4 hours before slicing.

Do ahe aD: Pie can

be baked 1 day ahead. Store

tightly wrapped at room

temperature.

8 s e r v i n g s Adding almond

flour to the pastry dough

makes for a super-tender,

toasty-looking crust.

Crust

⅓ cup almond flour

¼ cup granulated sugar

1 tsp. kosher salt

2 ½ cups all-purpose

flour, plus more

for surface

1 cup (2 sticks) chilled

unsalted butter,

cut into pieces

2 large egg yolks

Filling anD assembly

All-purpose flour

for surface

1 cup granulated sugar

1 Tbsp. finely grated

lime zest

3 Tbsp. cornstarch


3 lb. fresh sour

cherries, pitted,

or 6 cups frozen

sour cherries

1 large egg, beaten

to blend

Demerara sugar or

granulated sugar

(for sprinkling)

Crust Pulse almond flour,

granulated sugar, salt, and

2 ½ cups all-purpose flour

How do you become one of

the youngest chefs in America

to earn three Michelin stars

while remaining completely

under the radar? Christopher

Kostow stealthily masters the Napa Valley

by Chris Ying

photographs by

Peden + MunK

rutabaga

baked in salt

and soil,

as presented

tableside.

o p p o s i t e :

Larder manager

Cameron

Cole rahtz and

Christopher

Kostow

(right) forage.


grasp of terroir with being located in a place that has afuence and that is very close to a major metropolitan area. That’s like the best of all possible worlds.”

T h e R e sTau R a n T aT M e a d owo o d

is part of a 250-acre resort of unspeak-able loveliness. Amenities include tennis courts, croquet lawns, swimming pools, a health spa, a nine-hole golf course, hiking trails, a vintner’s club…. It’s silly to even list them, because Meadowood is one of those places where you can basically ask for anything and someone will make it happen. It’s so adept at making you feel good, I wager you could drag an anar-chist gutter punk from Haight-Ashbury to Meadowood, and—if they were sure no one was watching—they’d be singing “I Could Have Danced All Night” in no time.

The restaurant itself is one of ten in America to earn three stars from the Michelin Guide—and one of only three west of New York City. A third Michelin star is generally reserved for restaurants that pamper the holy bejesus out of their guests: Service is always fawless (the ser-vice at Meadowood, under the all-seeing watch of restaurant director Nathaniel Dorn, is easygoing while still deeply attuned to a guest’s every possible need); the menus will push things in terms of decadence or grandiosity, but never at the expense of the diner’s absolute com-fort. Think of it as skydiving with an instructor—intoxicating, sure, but with a buddy strapped to your back to ensure the sofest possible landing.

The global restaurants that are often noted for the most exhilarating cook-ing tend to be

to get a closer look at the ruins, specu-lating excitedly about what the occupants of each room might have been doing a century ago. As I listened to him, I could begin to see why he had been so eager to get up here.

Napa Soda Springs, with its rich legacy and deep ties to this land, is a link to the past to which he can tie his restaurant.

“Once you learn about and experience something like the Soda Springs, a place like Meadowood starts to make a lot more sense,” Kostow explained.

As we drove away, I asked him to esti-mate the value of the property. “I don’t know,” he said. “Priceless? It’s 900 acres of mountainside land in Napa Valley.” One sensed a feeling of inevitability that the land would eventually fall out of the control of preservationist souls like the current owners—and that, at some point, it will be paved over by more vineyards or a new resort. In the Napa Valley, wine is where the money and the focus are—ofen at the expense of everything else. “The Val-ley has a deep history but a thin veneer,” Kostow explained. Hence his kinship with and interest in Napa Soda Springs and the era it represents: when great restaurants and great food were as much a part of the fabric of the Valley as wine. For their part, Kostow and his team are trying to break up the monoculture of the wine grape in a garden located less than a mile from the restaurant, on a parcel of land that he shares with a Montessori school. The garden yields a signifcant percentage of the herbs, greens, root vegetables, fowers, fruits, and, most recently, snails that the restaurant uses.

“We have an opportunity to have real terroir in a way that very few places do,” he said. “And we’re able to couple that

twisting half-hour drive through hobby vineyards and

vertiginous sheep pastures did nothing positive for

my hangover. The 20 or so courses — plus beverage

pairings — from dinner the previous night were soon

threatening to make a reappearance in the front seat

of chef Christopher Kostow’s car. But early this morning

was the only chance we were going to have to see a

nearly forgotten wonder of California up close.

So I held it together, barely.During the last few decades of the

19th century, Napa Soda Springs was a lavish compound for wealthy socialites, who would travel by ferry and train, then carriage, to the resort, arriving at the entrance of the towering Rotunda Hotel, which could be seen from all over the Val-ley. Visitors to the Springs would work up a sweat on the tennis and croquet lawns, refresh themselves from the naturally efervescent springs, repair to the dining room for “the best of everything to eat,” dance, and then the men would retire to the Club House for cigars and whiskey. More than 120 years ago, the Napa Valley was already a top destination for rich peo-ple looking to part ways with their money.

Kostow, the cerebral 37-year-old chef of the Restaurant at Meadowood in St. Hel-ena, is prone to obsessing over arcana, especially when it comes to the Napa Valley. He’d been trying for months to get a closer look at the ruins of the Soda Springs. (The resort fell into disrepair after the death of its benefactor and developer, Col. John P. Jackson, in 1900.) But at every turn, he’d met resistance: the nay-saying of the Napa County His-torical Society, barbed-wire fencing, no

trespassing signs, even, it’s been said, armed patrols. Every now and then, he would drive to the edge of the 900-acre plot just to peer in, before scampering of lest someone spot him and, you know, pos-sibly shoot him.

But fnally, a barrage of e-mails and phone calls had worn down the property’s current owner, who’d agreed to take him on a rare tour. As we walked the grounds, Kostow, with his thick wooden glasses and a Tintin-esque swoop in his hair, clambered over crumbling foundations

A

(continues on page 100)

Kostow crafts

a dish at the

Restaurant at

Meadowood.

m o r e

m e a d o w o o d

To see Kostow’s

Poussin Baked in

Bread from start

to finish, go to

bonappetit.com

/meadowood

Whipped

yogurt with

salted wild

plum, black

sesame,

and shiso.

K o s t o w d o w n p l ay s h i s u s e o f l u x u r y i n g r e d i e n t s , l i K e h o w w h e n y o u ’ r e a r e a l

b a l l e r y o u d o n ’ t n e e d t o t e l l a n y o n e h o w m u c h y o u s p e n t o n y o u r w a t c h .

The pottery

studio of Richard

Carter, a Kostow

collaborator.


two-star places. Noma in Copenhagen, though widely considered to be the home of the most exciting restaurant meal on earth, has famously been denied a third star for years. In a way, Kostow is chasing the same ghost as Noma’s chef, René Redz-epi. Their goal is to connect diners to the specifc favors of their respective regions and to build a reputation for great, pro-gressive cooking where one had not previously existed.

Dinner at Meadowood is a decidedly less buttoned-up affair than at other three-stars. From the moment you walk through the thick wooden doors, you’re struck with the sense of being in a home. Not your home, probably—more like the woodsy summerhouse of a Scandinavian art dealer—but a home nonetheless. The wooden walls are washed with a thin cement glaze that’s warmed by frelight. Guests congregate in the Rotunda (a happy echo of Napa Soda Springs) and

adjoining bar area, and loosen up with a few carefully constructed, invariably interesting cocktails—think herbes de Provence–infused vermouth with berga-mot tincture—before proceeding into the dining room.

Once you’re comfortably nestled into a leather chair, a series of canapés appear in quick succession and Kostow immediately begins to toy with your expectations of tex-ture and temperature. A bite-size shell of black olive meringue flled with whipped olive oil catches you of guard with its frmness. One is programmed to be wary of anything hard when eating an olive, but the shell collapses in a satisfying crunch, and you’re hit with a briny sweetness that I can only describe as olive tofee. Next, fromage blanc and cured lemon in a thin cracker shell that bursts like a Fruit Gush-ers candy. Diminutive baby vegetables (turnip, carrot, radish) lightly fermented overnight in Champagne yeast are by turns spicy and astringent. A kale chip,

pufy and ethereal like a Chinese shrimp cracker, is topped with a purée seasoned like Spanish chorizo and packs a meaty savoriness—without the meat.

The main body of the menu—a choice between eight to ten or 15 to 20 courses, for $225 and $500 respectively—progresses in related pairs or trios, grouped like movements of a symphony. The freshness of perfectly cooked asparagus pervades a bowl of brined whelk, then highlights a dish of surf clam, smoked goat’s butter, and sprouted seeds and grains. The sweet, chewy abductor muscle of the surf clam shows up in the next course, topped with walnuts and walnut oil.

“What’s important to me as a diner is rhythm and speed and cadence,” Kostow explains. “I don’t like meals where I’m sitting there for hours and hours and hours, and there’s 25 minutes between each course. The sort of things that you can do with dishes in twos or threes keeps the diner much more engaged.”

Kostow’s collaboration with potter richard Carter; persimmons ready to be dried.

(continued from page 96)

The Restaurant

at Meadowood’s

artful larder.

The rutabaga

from page 95,

carved and

served with

aerated maple,

pecan, and

white truffle.


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Punctuating these explorations into the multiple uses of single ingredients are moments of unfettered luxury—this is a grand restaurant, afer all. Raw spiny-tail lobster is wrapped in lardo, topped with caviar, and set in a spoonful of rich pork stock. A glistening, mahogany Parker House roll stands by for juice-soaking duty. Here, and throughout the menu, Kostow downplays his use of luxury ingre-dients, like how when you’re a real baller you don’t need to tell anyone how much you spent on your watch. The caviar is hid-den under tiny succulent leaves, seasoning rather than gilding the lobster.

“There needs to be a perception of value, but I think our diners are extremely sophisticated,” he says. “I want them to experience luxury, but it’s more our def-nition of luxury.” Kostow describes it as “concern and care. I don’t think anyone leaves feeling like they weren’t incredibly cared for.”

In a moment between courses during my last dinner there, the couple next to me, seeing that I was being treated with familiarity and what they perceived to be extra-special kindness, leaned over and asked, “Are you a regular?”

In my notebook, I have a note that reads: Ha! I thought they were regulars.

’ll adMiT ThaT i neveR ThoughT to visit Meadowood until a few months ago. When it landed its third Michelin star in 2011, I imagine I let out a puz-zled: “What the hell is Meadowood?”

“We are a restaurant in a town of 5,000 people,” Kostow explains. “We’re not in a major city. We’re expensive. We’re not easy to fnd. But what we do is very timely.”

It all raises the question: If Meadowood were in New York or San Francisco or Chi-cago, would Kostow be a celebrity by now? His career has been a rocket screaming through the upper echelons of fne din-ing, picking up accolades and stars with startling frequency. Kostow studied philosophy at Hamilton College in New York State before cooking in San Diego, Paris, and Montpellier, France; he was a sous chef under Daniel Humm while he was running the best kitchen in San Francisco, at Campton Place, and then moved on to his frst head chef position, at Chez TJ in Mountain View, an hour south of San Francisco. Kostow quickly earned a Michelin star at Chez TJ—then

a second—before arriving at Meadowood in 2009 and, just two years later, becom-ing the fourth youngest chef ever to be awarded three stars.

Though he accomplished most of this on the DL, Kostow and Meadowood are now primed to storm the scene. In 2013, the James Beard Foundation named him the best chef in the West. He has a line of ceramics due out this summer and a cook-book in the fall. Yet in our conversations, I sense a distinct anxiety at the prospect of being launched into the spotlight.

“I don’t need to be famous,” he says. “I think the idea of chefs being famous is a joke. Your most famous chef is less famous than your least famous person on Dancing

with the Stars.”I discuss all of this with him during

another drive on the serpentine dirt roads of the Valley, this time to meet his friend and new business partner, the sculp-tor and ceramics artist Richard Carter. Carter’s studio is a breathtaking home-stead from the 1870s, tucked in a small unincorporated stretch of North Napa called Pope Valley. The place gives the impression of a hippie commune that’s been injected with the industrious energy of a tech start-up. In a converted prune-drying shed, primitive-looking kilns yield rustic plates, bowls, and pitchers that will ultimately form the basis of the Carter/Kostow line of ceramics.

The prototypes are thick, with slow curves, like something primordial that has been barely tamed into elegance. The clay is speckled with iron that burns into random rust-brown fecks in the glaze. The inspiration for the serving bowl shape is an old tractor part. The look is defnitely of this place, if not necessarily this time.

I ask Kostow if he’ll use the plates at Meadowood, and he hesitates before saying, “Eventually, yes.” When I press a little fur-ther, Kostow reveals a reluctance to share what he’s building out here in the woods. It seems like it’s related to the feeling of anxiety he expressed to me about publiciz-ing Napa Soda Springs. He’d like for more people to know about it, to understand that Meadowood is part of an illustrious lineage of fantastical resorts, but he also voiced numerous reservations about my bringing it up in this article. At the end of the day, he’s a champion of the art, the people, the stories, and the food of the Napa Valley because he loves it here. He’s wary of what sharing these things means: people covet-ing it, imitating it, taking it, ruining it.

And so, Kostow is planting his roots deep into the Napa soil, making sure he’ll be around to see his work through. “I plan to be here for the long run,” he says. “Who else is going to be the steward of this place and these products?” He speaks dreamily about another restaurant, something big and bustling and simple, spearheaded by his longest-tenured lieutenants—it’s the typical dream of a fne-dining chef who works under constant scrutiny. It’s also a distraction from the confict at the core of what he does these days. Meadowood has quietly grown into one of the fnest res-taurants you’ve probably never heard of. Kostow knows it’s for the best that he get out and bang the drum for the restaurant, but part of him wants to keep this place and these lovely things to himself, if only for a moment more.

chris ying is a former line cook, onetime

publisher of McSweeney’s Books, and now

the editor in chief of Lucky Peach magazine.

“ I t h I n k t h e

I d e a o f c h e f s

b e I n g fa m o u s

I s a j o k e ,”

s ay s k o s t o w.

“ y o u r m o s t

fa m o u s c h e f I s

l e s s fa m o u s

t h a n y o u r

l e a s t fa m o u s

p e r s o n o n

D a n c i n g w i t h

t h e S ta r S .”

JUNE 2014 • boNappEtit.com 107 P h o t o g r a P h s b y z a c h d e s a r t

prep schoolT e c h n i q u e s , T i p s , a n d m o r e f r o m T h e b o n a p p é T i T T e s T k i T c h e n

c u tawayc R u S t

As fruit

pies bake, they release

steam, which is why

the top crust needs

to be vented (trapped

moisture equals soggy

pastry). Cutting simple

slits is fine, but

we love the way these

circular cutouts look.

It’s easy: Use the point

of a large pastry tip

(about ¾" diameter) to

punch out circles in

the dough, leaving a 3"

border. Be sure to

allow a little space

between them to avoid

tears. —Alison RomAn

from p. 93

For a diferent

look, arrange

the holes in a tidy

concentric pattern.

MAKE MORE MAYO

The magic of mayo starts with

a strong emulsion. Even more

magical? You can customize

it endlessly. Add harissa paste,

chopped chiles, anchovies,

cayenne, grated garlic,

cornichons, shallots...stop

us anytime. —A.R.

P r e P s c h o o l

Radish greens are peppery,

like arugula— eat them!

Choose firm, perky-looking radishes with taut (not cracked) flesh.

Claire Saffitz,

assistant

food editor

TEST KITCHEN TALK

4 E astEr Egg

Can be red, pink,

white, or purple in

color; similar in

taste and texture

to Cherry Belle.

3 FrEnch

BrE akFast

Mild in flavor and

ultra-crunchy,

great for eating raw

as well as roasting.

1 WatErmElon

Prized for its stun-

ning inner beauty

(and sturdiness),

it’s best shaved raw

or lightly pickled.

2 chErry BEllE

The red, round

supermarket

radish. Slice thin

and toss into salads

or onto tacos.

5 Bl ack spanish

The spiciest of

them all; excellent

for pickling or

grating (like you

would horseradish).

Whisk egg

yolk, mustard, and

lemon juice in a

small bowl to blend.

Whisking

constantly, drizzle

in oil, drop by drop,

until mayonnaise

starts to thicken.

Continue

whisking, adding oil

in a steady stream.

Mayonnaise should

be thick and glossy.

Plastic squeeze bottles are

standard issue in restaurant

kitchens, where chefs use

them to keep sauces, cooking

oils, and dressings within arm’s

reach. This is one of those

pro tools that works just as well at home. In the BA Test

Kitchen, we decant big cans of olive oil into smaller

bottles and keep them next to our stove-tops, along

with vegetable oil and sticky stuf, like honey and agave.

Paper-towel collars absorb drips, and painter’s tape is

handy for making labels. —CARlA lAlli musiC

Pitting olives used to be

one of those purgatorial

kitchen tasks, until

I learned this trick: Crush a couple

of olives at a time under

the flat side of your chef’s

knife, pressing gently for

softer types, such as Gaeta,

and giving the firmer ones like Cerignola a

good whack. The pits should pop right out.

Anything I can dip in butter and salt is my idea of a perfect food. That’s why I love radishes—

from French Breakfasts, with their diminutive size and oblong shape (fine, they’re my favorite), to spicy

Easter Eggs and the mild tasting but visually vibrant watermelon radish. —A.R.

T h e C R U N C h b U N C hfrom p. 40

1

2

3

4

5


BOTTLE

SERVICE

ill

Us

tr

at

ioN

s:

br

Uc

E h

Ut

ch

iso

N (

ma

yo

), d

EN

isE

NE

st

or

(p

or

tr

ait

)

P r e P s c h o o l

Beautifully browned scallops are easy to achieve if you

know where to start. At the fish counter, ask for additive-free “dry”

scallops. (“Wet” scallops are soaked in a preservative that also

adds water; they won’t sear as well and expel liquid as they cook.)

High heat and a hands-of approach take care of the rest. —A.R.

T h e s C a l l o p e d g efrom p. 40

1 Blot scallops

dry With

papEr toWEl

Remove surface mois-

ture before seasoning

(do this even if they’re

“dry”). Preheat a

cast-iron pan over

medium-high heat.

2 makE surE

thE oil is hot

There should be

an audible sizzle

when you

add the scallops.

Don’t disturb

them—you risk

tearing the flesh.

3 sE ar First,

thEn turn

Check by peeking

underneath. If

the underside

is browned and

scallops release

easily, turn to sear

the second side.

BERRY BASICS

In-season berries are delicate. To keep them for a day

or two, refrigerate in a single layer on a baking sheet lined

with paper towels. Rinsing will only hasten their demise, so hold

of until you’re ready to use them. —C.L.M.

from p. 19

Fo

od

st

yl

iNg

by

al

iso

N r

om

aN

bon appétit is a registered trademark of advance magazine publishers inc. copyright © 2014 condé nast. all rights reserved. printed in the u.s.a. volume 59, no. 6. Bon Appétit (ISSn 0006-6990) is published monthly by Condé nast, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. principal office: The Condé nast Building, 4 Times Square, new York, nY 10036. S. I. newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Oficer; Robert A. Sauerberg, Jr., President; John W. Bellando, Chief Operating Oficer & Chief Financial Oficer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Oficer. Periodicals postage paid at new York, nY, and at additional mailing ofices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement no. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration no. 123242885-RT0001. Canada Post: Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 874, Station Main, Markham, On L3P 8L4. postmaster: send all uaa to cfs. (see dmm 707.4.12.5); non-postal and military facilities: send address corrections to Bon Appétit, P.O. Box 37614, Boone, IA 50037-0614. for subscriptions, address changes, adjustments, or back issue inquiries: Please write to Bon Appétit, P.O. Box 37614, Boone, IA 50037-0614, call 800-765-9419, or e-mail [email protected]. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. subscribers: If the Post Ofice alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within eight weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to Bon Appétit Magazine, 4 Times Square, new York, nY 10036. For reprints, please e-mail [email protected] or call 717-505-9701, ext. 101. For reuse permissions, please e-mail [email protected] or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at BonAppetit.com. To subscribe to other Condé nast magazines on the World Wide Web, visit CondenastDigital .com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that ofer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these ofers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 37614, Boone, IA 50037-0614 or call 800-765-9419. bon appétit is not responsible for the return or loss of, or for damage or any other injury to, unsolicited manuscripts, unsolicited artwork (including, but not limited to, drawings, photographs, and transparencies), or any other unsolicited materials. those submitting manuscripts, photographs, artwork, or other materials for consideration should not send originals, unless specifically requested to do so by bon appétit in writing. manuscripts, photographs, and other materials submitted must be accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope.

21 3

sourcebook

COOK THE COVER

Sour Cherry Pie p. 93

APPETIZERs

Cured Salmon with Fennel and Carrot Salad p. 81

Minty Spinach Dip p. 20

Shrimp with Mustard-Lime Dipping Sauce p. 14

BREAKfAsT

Brown Rice Porridge with Hazelnuts and Jam p. 91

BEVERAGEs

Alive and Kicking p. 32

Caffè Shakerato p. 32

Dublin Iced Coffee p. 32

The Elvis p. 14

Extra-Stormy Dark and Stormy p. 68

Spinach-Honeydew Cooler p. 20

Strawberry-Ginger Lemonade p. 68

sOUP

Green Minestrone p. 43

sALADs

Barley, Fennel, and Beet Salad p. 66

Bean Salad with Lemon and Herbs p. 66

German Potato Salad with Dill p. 66

Grain Salad with Puffed Red Quinoa and Labneh p. 17

Spinach Salad with Dates p. 20

MAIN COURsEs

fIsH, sEAfOOD

Butter-Basted Salmon with Hazelnut Relish p. 81

Poached Salmon with Artichoke Confit p. 78

Roasted Salmon with Potatoes and Herbed Crème Fraîche p. 81

Scallops with Hazelnuts and Warm Sun Gold Tomatoes p. 40

Slow-Cooked Salmon with Turnips and Swiss Chard p. 78

Smoked Salmon Tartines with Fried Capers p. 78

MEAT

Salt-and-Pepper Steak p. 67

Steak Tacos with Cilantro-Radish Salsa p. 40

POULTRY

Chicken Salad with Crème Fraîche and Rye p. 84

Nashville-Style Hot Chicken p. 50

VEGETARIAN

Carrot Pancakes with Salted Yogurt p. 91

Sorrel Rice Bowls with Poached Eggs p. 84

PAsTA

Cavatelli with Zucchini and Leeks p. 69

Orecchiette with Corn, Greens, and Ricotta p. 69

Spaghetti with Tomatoes and Anchovy Butter p. 69

VEGETABLEs,

sIDE DIsHEs

Classic Coleslaw p. 54

Crispy Brown Rice “Kabbouleh” p. 91

Crushed Beets with Lemon Vinaigrette p. 36

DREssINGs,

MIsCELLANEOUs

Canal House Classic Vinaigrette p. 47

Canal House Green Goddess Dressing p. 47

Lemon-Anchovy Vinaigrette p. 47

Lemon-Ginger Brew p. 68

Simplest Asian Dressing p. 47

DEssERTs

Banana Meringue Pudding p. 54

Blackberry-Tarragon Paletas p. 70

Burmese Semolina Cake p. 17

Cucumber-Lime Paletas p. 70

Lemon Cake with Raspberries and Pistachios p. 91

Raspberry-Melon Paletas p. 70

Sour Cherry Pie p. 93

Summer Fruit Crisp p. 71

recipe index JUNE 20 14

TRAVEL PLANNER

R.s.V.P. pp. 14–17betony 41 W. 57th St., NYC; 212-465-2400; betony-nyc.com son of a gun 8370 W. Third St., Los Angeles; 323-782-9033; sonofagunrestaurant.com the spice island tea house 253 Atwood St., Pittsburgh; 412-687-8821; spiceislandteahouse.com town 348 Main St., Carbondale, CO; 970-963-6328; towncarbondale.com

THE ba Q&A:

sIR PATRICK sTEwART p. 24 stone park cafe 324 Fifth Ave., Brooklyn, NY; 718-369-0082; stoneparkcafe.com

THE DRINK:

COffEE COCKTAILs p. 32 planter’s house 1000 Mississippi Ave., St. Louis; 314-696-2603; plantershousestl .com soda & swine 2943 Adams Ave., San Diego; 619-269-7632; sodaandswine.com

NAVIGATOR:

BARCELONA pp. 56–60 la boqueria 91 La Rambla; +34-933-18-25-84; boqueria.info la cova fumada 56 Carrer del Baluart; +34-932-21-40-61 federal 39 Carrer del Parlament; +34-931-87-36-07; federalcafe.es/barcelona la guingueta de la barceloneta Platja de Sant Sebastià; carlesabellan.es /la-guingueta-de-la-barceloneta hotel omm 265 Carrer del Rosselló; +34-934-45-40-00; hotelomm.es ideal cocktail bar 89 Carrer d’Aribau;

+34-934-53-10-28; idealcocktailbar.com joan la llar del pernil La Boqueria, Stall 667, 91 La Rambla; +34-933-17-95-29 monvÍnic 249 Carrer de la Diputació; +34-932-72-61-87; monvinic.com/en morro fi 171 Carrer del Consell de Cent; morrofi.cat el quim La Boqueria, Stall 608, 91 La Rambla; +34-933-01-98-10; elquimdelaboqueria.com/en rocambolesc 50 Carrer de Santa Clara, Girona; +34-972-41-66-67; rocambolesc.com tickets 164 Avinguda del Paral•lel; +34-932-92-42-53; ticketsbar.es/web/en vinÇon 96 Passeig de Gracia; +34-932-15-60-50; vincon .com/en

INTO THE wILD pp. 72–81buck bay shellfish farm 77 EJ Young Rd., Olga, WA; 360-376-5280; buckbayshellfishfarm.com inn at ship bay 326 Olga Rd., Orcas Island, WA; 877-276-7296; innatshipbay.com long live the kings 1326 Fifth Ave., Suite 450, Seattle; 206-382-9555; lltk.org the whale wins 3506 Stone Way N, Seattle; 206-632-9425; thewhalewins.com

sQIRL POwR pp. 82–91sqirl 720 N. Virgil Ave., Los Angeles; 323-284-8147; sqirlla.com

ALL QUIET ON THE wEsTERN

fRONT pp. 94–103the restaurant at meadowood 900 Meadowood Ln., St. Helena, CA; 707-967-1205; therestaurantatmeadowood.com

back of the napkin

CeeLo’s desert-island

dessert, written in L.A. on March 14,

2014. His Yorkie took

a chunk out of the corner.

C e e L o G r e e n“I don’t eat a lot of junk food anymore,

but I sure remember it,” sighs CeeLo Green,

recording artist and former coach on The

Voice. “I used to go through boxes of Little

Debbies. I liked Star Crunch, and of course

those oatmeal pies.” These days, the “Forget

You” singer, who is starring in a new reality

show on TBS (CeeLo Green’s The Good Life),

keeps things more moderate on the food

front. Sure, he still puts potato chips on

hot dogs, but instead of snack cakes, he goes

for Pinkberry. About that frozen yogurt:

Green is devoted and evangelical, rattling

of favorite flavors and admitting that he

usually knows what he wants to order

before he even arrives. “I’m a regular—

I’m like Norm from Cheers,” he laughs. Just

don’t expect too many dirty details. “My

relationship with food is intimate. I don’t eat

and tell.” —Alison Rosen

Fo

oD

ST

YL

ING

BY

AL

ISo

N A

TT

eN

Bo

ro

uG

h.

Pr

oP

ST

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BY

kA

Le

N k

AM

INS

kI.

IL

Lu

ST

rA

TIo

N B

Y M

r.

MA

Ne

L.

k

Ar

Te

LL

DA

rk

Go

LD

CIN

DY

LA

MP,

AB

Ch

oM

e.C

oM

.

w e i r d e s t i t e m i n

h i s f r i d g e

“Baby food for puppies.

I just got a Yorkie

named Zu.”

c r e a t u r e o f

c o m f o r t

“I may sample at Pinkberry,

but when I find a flavor I like,

I’m pretty committed to it.”

P h o t o g r a P h b y D a n n y K i m

Bon Appetit - June 2014 USA.pdf

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