CMAA International Wine Society

Wine Society News

Vol. 19 NO. 2 Spring 2006

Inside:The 2006 International Wine Society Board of Managers . . . 4

Tiny Bubbles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

The American Academy of Chefs Dinner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Book Review . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Conference Pictures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

What Does J Stand For? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Wine Society Members Indulge in a Taste of the Islands . . . 11

Wine Society Members Experience True Taste of Hawaiiat Pre-Conference Food and Wine Workshop . . . . . . . . . 13

Don't Miss Out on the Chile/Argentina Wineand Food Workshop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Another Year, Another Successful Wine Auction . . . . . . . . .15

Clubs Recognized for Exceptional Wine Programs . . . . . . . .16

World Wine Regions Sign Declaration to ProtectIntegrity of Place Names . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

Wine Society Annual Business Meeting Wine Test . . . . . . . .17

New Members . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

Wine Society Annual Business MeetingWine Test Answers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

By Patricia Reese

In an interview with Wine Society News, one of France’smost revered chefs, Alain Senderens, details his new venture, hisphilosophy of wine pairings and how two Michelin stars just mightbe better than three.

There are no more tablecloths or fresh-cut flowers at 9,place de la Madeleine, home of the former three-star, ArtDeco temple to cuisine, Lucas Carton. Its chef, AlainSenderens, unleashed a torrent of ink around the worldlast year when he announced that he was “giving back”his Michelin stars and opening up a new, more casualrestaurant, the eponymous Senderens.

Chef Senderens, who held three stars for 28 yearsstraight starting in 1978 at L’Archestrate until 2005 withLucas Carton, has long epitomized luxury dining. Yet inthe capitale of haute cuisine, a new aroma wafts in the air.Michelin chefs such as Alain Ducasse, Pierre Gagnaire,Joël Robuchon and Guy Savoy, are opening more casual,less expensive restaurants in Paris. Ducasse was at thebeginning of the wave with Aux Lyonnais in 2004, addingBenoît this year. There are also Gagnaire’s Gaya,Robuchon’s L’Atelier and Savoy’s three, including therotisserie Atelier Maitre Albert. Still, most have kept theirMichelin-starred day jobs while they promulgate casualdining on the side.

In contrast, Senderens’ change of heart, or rather plate,was a dramatic all-or-nothing switch. It followed a swirl ofevents—the aftermath of September 11, heart problems, thecost and stress of running a three-star restaurant and adress-code 9-1-1. The 35-year-old son of one of Senderens’faithful millionaire diners at Lucas Carton had shown up injeans and sneakers, sans cravatte et veste. Senderens, who wasintent on enforcing Lucas Carton’s dress code, “in consider-ation of the other diners,” had asked to speak with theyoung software entrepreneur when he arrived. “You havean old-fashioned way of thinking,” the young man told him.“Coat and tie are finished.”

The exchange got Senderens thinking—and whenSenderens thinks, things happen. Witness how his trips to

Letter from the HostBy Dolly Ammann, CCM

(continued on page 3)

Dear Wine Society Members:

I would like to thank all of youand the Nominating Committeefor affording me the opportunityto serve as your CMAAInternational Wine Society Hostin 2006. I promise to do all that Ican to keep moving our organiza-tion forward.

I would like to recognize ourimmediate past Host, MitchMarron, for the outstandingleadership and guidance that he has provided theSociety this past year. Mitch is one of those forwardthinking individuals who is exciting to work with.When Mitch took office last year, he felt that it wastime to review what we were providing the member-ship and focus on what needed to be done as we lookto the future. In the summer of 2005, Mitch calledtogether the Wine Society Board for a strategic plan-ning conference. There was a lot of synergy and enthu-

Dolly Ammann,2006 Host

(continued on page 2)

Senderens' Shining Stars -Are Two Better than Three?

Letter From The Host

Vol. 19 NO. 2 Spring 20062

siasm that resulted in an ambitious strategic plan that willlead the Society for the next few years. The focus was onmembership value, professional development, membershipgrowth, fiscal responsibility, research and development,image development and communications.

One of the important professional development initiativesfrom the strategic plan is a new BMI program on wine andfood that will be held at the Culinary Institute of America atGreystone. The first session will take place this October. Thecourse covers sensory evaluation of wines, the wines andwine regions of Europe, the wines and emerging wine regions of the New World and wine and food pairing with a hands-on cooking component.

Another initiative is a club staff wine training program on CD-ROM that will be distributed to Wine Society Memberssometime this year. I would like to thank Oliver Boudin, CCM, for developing this program.

The 2005 Italian Wine and Food Workshop conducted by Chuck Walter, CCM, was truly a fabulous experience. Itwas Chuck’s vision in the early 1980s that is responsible for CMAA having a wine tour program today. Over the years,Chuck has organized 24 of these outstanding and highly informative programs, and I am happy to announce that Chuckhas agreed to organize a tour to Austria and Hungary in 2008. Setting up one of these tours involves considerable workorganizing hotels, transportation, banquets and winery visits. There also are currency fluctuations and language problemsto deal with when working on an overseas trip. All in all, it takes about a year to arrange one of these programs, andChuck has been indefatigable in his efforts to create first-class educational opportunities for CMAA members. Thank youChuck for everything you have done.

This year will be another good year for wine and food workshops. The year kicked-off with the Pre-ConferenceHawaiian Food and Wine Workshop which provided participants with a full day to explore Chinatown, tour the fish andproduce markets and enjoy a unique culinary experience where fusion cuisine prepared from local Hawaiian products waspaired with fine wines. Kudos to Andy Curtis, CCM, and Alan Lum, CCM, for putting this workshop together.

The Pacific Northwest Wine and Food Workshop will be held the first week in May. Participants will travel throughWashington and Oregon’s Willamette Valley to discover some of the best wines from these regions. In the fall of 2006,there will be a wine tour to Chile and Argentina. I would like to thank John Hudson, CCM, for organizing this workshopand Jeremy Simmons, CCM, the workshop presenter. It promises to be an experience of a lifetime. At this time, there areonly a few openings left, and I would advise anyone who is interested in participating to send in your deposit right away. A2007 Australian Wine and Food Workshop is now in the planning stages.

I would like to thank Art Barajas, CCM, for chairing the Wine Auction. Art has been involved in the wine auction nowfor eight years. Despite injuring his hand this year in a freight elevator door while setting up the wine auction, Art has vol-unteered to chair the wine auction in Anaheim. Art, you are really a good sport! Between the wine auction and wristbandsales, the Wine Society raised around $30,000 for The Club Foundation. Thank you to everyone who participated — boththose who donated the wines and those who purchased them. Congratulations to the Metropolitan Chapter that took the“Bucky Award” for the largest donation of wine totaling around $15,000 in wholesale value.

Our Wine Society dinner at the Oahu Country Club was spectacular. I personally think that we have raised the baronce again. A very special thank you to Loren Pippen, CCM, Oahu Country Club General Manager, and Corey Voss,food and beverage manager, for a fabulous evening. Great food, great wine, great service, great entertainment and lots offun were had by all!

In closing, I would like to thank all International Wine Society members for your continuing support and all the WineSociety Board members, both past and present, for their hard work and many contributions.

In Vino Veritas

Dolly Ammann, 2006 Host

(continued from page 1)

Vol. 19 NO. 2 Spring 20063

Senderens' Shining Stars - Are Two Betterthan Three?

Asia starting in the late 1970s helped to create la nouvellecuisine and how an enologist’s comment led him to rethinkthe place of wine in pairings (see "Senderens on Wines").“I also saw that at lunch, people were not eating like theyused to, and I said to myself, we were in the wrong—evenif we could have kept [Lucas Carton] going until I retiredor sold it,” he said.

So Senderens rethought his restaurant from top to bot-tom. He drew a line down the middle of his wine cellar andauctioned half off to finance the renovations. He hiredtrendy interior designer Noé Duchaufour-Lawrance, whomarried space-age furnishings with the Art Deco interior.He put together a menu that ran between 100 and 120euros per person ($120-$145), including the paired glassesof wine—up to 75 percent less than the cost of a meal atLucas Carton. He cut unnecessary expenses—out went thetablecloths, fresh-cut flowers, expensive table settings,etc.—things that cost about 300,000 euros ($362,000) peryear and had nothing to do with the cuisine. Orchids andbare composite tables are now the ordre du jour. Herevamped his wine list, increasing the selection of reason-ably priced wines (offering a selection of 10 reds and 10whites at six price points between 23 to 96 euros per bottleor $28-$116), and slashed mark-ups, now two to three timescost. He opted for less expensive ingredients, using, forexample, monkfish instead of turbot or smaller calibers oftruffles, which offer the same quality on the plate. Therestaurant would be open seven days per week, instead offive, with a bar serving tapas and sushi until 1:30 a.m. toboot. Lucas Carton closed on July 9 and Senderensemerged on September 19, very much like the butterfly onhis new logo.

The verdict is in and his vision of post-9/11 luxuryseems an unqualified success. He now serves 1,200 mealsper month, double of what he used to do, and there’s awaiting list for tables. The clientele, mainly French, hasgotten younger in age, and the ambiance is more modernand relaxed, he said. At the request of his regulars, he haseven put back some of his signature dishes on the menu,such as a simplified canard apicius, duck roasted withhoney and spices, inspired by a 2,000-year-old Romanrecipe. He even said that, much to the disbelief of thegrands châteaux, he is doubling his order of their wines.“I’ve never sold so much before,” he said. Michelin even“gave back” two of his three stars—despite Senderens’grousing about having rendered his stars in the first placebecause of the enormous overhead of keeping up three-star appearances.

As for what’s next, the 66-year-old says he doesn’thave any plans to head off to the Far West, Viva-Las-

Vegas style, like chefs-in-arms Robuchon, Ducasse andSavoy. He professes he is happy running his restaurantand consulting business, where he works with agro-indus-trial titans on the elaboration—and down to the advertis-ing—of heat-and-eat meals for the masses—or “adaptedluxury” as he calls it.

Senderens on Wines: Which Comes First,the Wine or the Dish?

It has been said that many who dine chez Senderens go asmuch for his wine pairings as for the food. On the menu, hepairs each dish, including appetizers and most desserts, witha specific glass of wine or spirits. “Nothing is left to chance,”he said about his pairings. He points out that about 80 per-cent of his patrons opt for the wine pairings on the menu,while an adventurous 10 percent pluck up the courage toselect their own wines from the list.

On his most recent menu, for example, the entréepoached foie gras in a Chinese boullion (27 euros or $33) ispaired with a glass of 2004 Domain Mosse Marie Besnard(Loire/Anjou, 13 euros or $15.50), with the followingtasting note: “Poached, the foie gras preserves its consis-tency all the while conferring a marrow-like texture thatnecessitates an expansive, supple wine, without beingsweet. The hearty boullion calls for an aromatic wine withhints of vegetable.” On the menu, one also finds a diluted10-year-old Talisker whiskey served with smoked salmonas well as a Lucas Carton holdover, Fourme d’Ambertcheese, served with a cherry-spiked brioche and a 1997Rozès Port.

Most days, Senderens tastes between 15 and 20 bottlesof wine with his sommelier. Once he finds a wine he likes,he first “reflects” upon it—then applies his culinary skills.In the kitchen, he “surrounds himself” with a tray filledwith, for example, zests of orange and lemon, ginger andother spices that might marry well with the dish he has inmind. And in a Platonic pursuit of perfection, he cooksand tastes until he concludes the ideal marriage betweenthe two. “This is the only way I can do it anymore,” hesaid, “I can’t imagine a dish without the wine. … 90 per-cent of my ideas come from tasting the wines [first].”

Senderens’ wine list is built on French wines, repre-senting about 85% of the list, with the non-French winesmainly coming from the Old World, in particular fromAustria and Italy. There are a handful of New Worldwines, such as a 1996 Robert Mondavi, in addition toselections from South Africa, New Zealand and Australia.When asked why he doesn’t offer more New Worldwines, Senderens cites two reasons. First, he said his cui-

(continued from page 1)

(continued on page 4)

Senderens' Shining Stars - Are Two Betterthan Three?

Vol. 19 NO. 2 Spring 20064

sine marries better with the Old World wines in terms oftaste and acidity, and second, he finds that Old Worldwines age better. Plus, noted this grand ami of wine growersin shrugging his shoulders, the French wine industry is incrisis right now.

It was a critical comment about his wine list in theearly 1980s from the celebrated French enologist JacquesPuisais, founder of the French Taste Institute and authorof three books, including “Le Goût Juste des Vins et desPlats” (1985, Flammarion), that pushed him to rethinkthe place of wine at his table. Until then, the dish hadalways come first with the wine as an afterthought. Thebottle of wine is a finished work of art once it is opened,he remarks, but when you cook, the recipe is never exact-ly the same twice as you are modifying it until the veryend. Thus, he concludes that it is only in putting the winefirst that you will find the perfect marriage between thetwo. “There’s a logical pairing between a particular wineand dish,” he said.

So Senderens set out on a journey to become moreknowledgeable about wine. He took courses at theuniversities of Bordeaux and Dijon (Burgundy), and startedoffering several pairings on the menu. It was such a successthat by the mid-1980s, he completely switched his menuover to this format, where all dishes were offered withwines he had personally selected.

When he talks about taste and pairings, he talks about“forms” in his mouth. This is why, for example, Senderensadvises against drinking red wines with cheese. They donot “fit.” The red wine overwhelms the cheese and leaves

a bad taste in your mouth, he maintains. Putting the twotogether is “unnatural.” He suggests pairing Roquefort(the real, insists this former Roquefort consultant, withthe greenish tint, not the blue) with a Sauternes orMunster with a Gewürztraminer. “When one takes noteof these grand pairings [with cheese], you realize that it iswith white wines,” he said.

Senderens equates taste with culture, and surpassingone’s cultural boundaries means expanding one’s gustativeuniverse. In recounting the first time he ate snake soup inAsia, Senderens recalls how he could hardly touch it.Watching the snake being skinned was completelyrevolting to him. Little by little, however, he got used toeating it. Now, one of the first things he does when hegoes to Hong Kong is have the driver pull over to a road-side stand for a steaming, snake-filled bowl. “Taste is amuscle,” he lectures, “you must exercise it.” Messieurs,Mesdames, to your palates.

On a personal note, this will be the last articlethat I will write on a regular basis for the WineSociety News. I have been honored to contribute tothe newsletter, and I hope that you have found thearticles enjoyable and useful. I would like to thankformer hosts Tom Bertani, CCM, Mitch Marron,and Dolly Ammann, CCM, your hard-workingeditor and communications director BridgetGorman Wendling, and last but not least,“Sparky,” for their support and guidance.

Santé, mes amis! Patricia Reese

(continued from page 3)

The 2006 International Wine Society Board of Managers

HostDolly Ammann, CCMMeadow Springs CCammanndo@cmaa.org

CellarmasterRonald A. Banaszak, CCM

Long Beach YCbanaszar@cmaa.org

KitchenmasterAndrew Curtis CMP, CCM

India House Clubcurtisan@cmaa.org

CellarerEdward T. Brennan, Jr., CCM

brennane@cmaa.org

KitchenerMichael C. Kraus, CCM

krausmic@cmaa.org

Admin. ScribeMatt S. Oggero, CCM

Bohemian ClubOggeroMa@cmaa.org

TreasurerOliver Boudin, CCM

Wichita Falls CCboudinol@cmaa.org

BarristerArt Barajas, CCM

South Hills CCbarajasa@cmaa.org

ToastmasterRobert A. Gombas, II, CCM

Sunset CCgombasro@cmaa.org

Board MemberMitchell B. MarronOceanside G & CCmarronmi@cmaa.org

Board MemberChristina A. Toups, CCM

Ridglea CCcattoups@cmaa.org

Board MemberJoseph F. Basso, MCM

Tam O’Shanter CCbassojos@cmaa.org

Vol. 19 NO. 2 Spring 20065

Cellar NotesTiny Bubbles

By Dolly Ammann, CCM

The theme song of Don Ho, the famous Hawaiian enter-tainer, is “Tiny Bubbles.” While Don Ho was not at theCMAA International Wine Society Business Meeting, therewere lots of “tiny bubbles in the wine.” Taittinger Champagnewas the wine with all the tiny bubbles, courtesy of JeromeJeandin, national sales director for Champagne Taittinger,Korbrand Corporation.

Jerome entertained us with quips and his outrageoussense of humor as he led us through a tasting of sevenChampagnes that represented some of the world’s finestbubbly. The first was an elegant and delightful Brut laFrancaise made from 40 percent Chardonnay, 30 percentPinot Noir and 30 percent Pinot Meunier. The wine wasaged for 36 months in the cellar. The French Champagneregulation requires that a Brut NV Champagne be aged aminimum of 15 months. All of the wines we tasted in thiscategory were aged well beyond that point. Next was thePrestige Rosé, made from 55 percent Pinot Noir, 30 percentChardonnay and 15 percent Pinot Meunier. It was aged 30months in the cellar. I marveled at the wine’s brilliant pinkcolor and fine bubbles. It had an intensely fruity nose. Onthe palate, it was velvety with subtle flavors of wild straw-berries. Third in the line up was Prélude, a marvelous winewith all grapes from Grand Crus vineyards. The blend is 50percent Chardonnay and 50 percent Pinot Noir. It was keptin the cellar for 48 months. The wine was pale yellow with acreamy ring of mousse. There were exotic floral aromas andspicy cinnamon notes. The first sip was intensely citrus. Thisgave way to a more mellow taste of white peaches. The winewas rich and elegant.

French Champagne regulations require vintageChampagnes to be aged a minimum of 36 months in the cel-lar. The Taittinger Brut Millésimé 1999 that we tasted wasaged 60 months. Taittinger only produces a vintageChampagne when the harvest has been an outstanding one

with top- quality fruit. This wine was exceptional in everyway, with brilliant highlights, tiny bubbles and intense aro-mas. It was lively and powerful with a long finish. I won-dered if it could get any better than this and then came theComtes de Champagne tête de couvée.

Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs 1998 inMagnum was simply to die for. The color was a pale yellow.The bubbles were very fine and light. It had an intense bou-quet that was subtle and highly complex at the same time. Itwas luscious with lemony flavors and floral hints. It was amagnificent wine full of finesse. The grapes were 100 percentChardonnay from Grands Crus vineyards exclusively. Onlythe first pressing is used for the tête de cuvée.

The last of our tiny bubbles to savor was Comtes deChampagne Rosé 1999. Of all the marvelous wines, this onewas my favorite. It had a beautiful rose salmon color withfine mousse. The nose was delicate with exotic fruit comingthrough. On the palate, the Pinot Noir came through withsubtle flavors of dark red fruit. It was a wine of great com-plexity. The blend was 70 percent Pinot Noir and 30 percentChardonnay from the most renowned Grands Crus of the area.

What a wonderful way to spend a rainy afternoon inHawaii. Jerome was a wonderful presenter who kept uslaughing and enjoying. At the end, there was a standingovation. This was a seminar none of us will ever forget.

Jerome Jeandin, who was born in France, has a bachelor's degreein economics and master's degree with merits in business law from theSorbonne. His post-graduate work includes International BusinessLaw at the Sorbonne and an MBA with merits specialized in interna-tional sales (London) and Champagne Institute Ay. Before coming towork for Taittinger, his career experience included several positions ininternational marketing.

Cellar NotesThe American Academy of Chefs Dinner

Vol. 19 NO. 2 Spring 20066

By Tom Bertani, CCMThe annual Academy of Chefs Dinner, held in conjunc-

tion with the St. Louis Chefs De Cuisine, took place onMonday, March 13, 2006, at Algonquin Golf Club. It wasquite a gala event.

Upon arrival, guests, who were resplendent in blackties and formal gowns, were welcomed by doorman extra-ordinaire and general manager of Algonquin Golf Club,Mass Shakiba. Once inside, legions of attentive serverspassed amuse gueule that tantalized the palate, enhancedby a fabulous sparkling wine from Napa, Falconer, Blancde Blancs, 1997. All too soon, the dinner bell rang andguests were led to impeccably set and adorned dinnertables to begin their culinary odyssey.

The first course was a tour de force: Spring Halibutand Lobster Rossini, a whimsical play on “Beef Rossini.”The dish was served with roasted halibut “cheek,” lobster,smoked oysters and a slice of foie gras, complimented bychervil butter and garnished with fresh micro greens andpastry fleuron. It was magnificent; the chervil added atouch of bitterness, the butter sauce was rich and themicro-greens added a touch of “heat” and texture. Thecourse was heightened by an excellent (and aptlymatched) accompanying wine, Chablis, Collet, Vaillons,Premier Cru, 2002.

The second course, cream of wild mushroom soup withfennel cream and thyme-scented croutons, was wonderful.The wild mushroom provided a wonderful smokiness andearthiness to the soup, the fennel cream added a touch oflicorice and the croutons added texture.

I am not a fan of intermezzo orpalate “cleansing” courses thatfeature “ices” or sorbets, which iswhy I did not sample the springonion and mint sorbet. However,it was seemingly well-preparedand enjoyed by others.

The main course continued thisdazzling culinary experience:potato-wrapped roasted garlicscented loin of lamb and braisedshank crepinette. It was presentedas if it was a painter’s palette,with each of the offerings artfullyplaced around the plate. Thelamb loin was delicious, encasedin tender shredded and brownedpotatoes. The lamb shank, slow

roasted and removed from the bone, was sublime. Bothwere accented nicely by the puree of celery root and winereduction sauce and fresh assorted vegetables in the cen-ter of the plate. The wine offered was an Italian –Dorigo, Refosco, 2003, and once again, matched quitewell with the dinner offering.

A combination salad and cheese course followed, andthough it may seem repetitive of me, it too was outstand-ing, both pleasing to the eye and the palate. Tossed babygreens and aged Gouda were enhanced by “fig jam,” can-died Missouri black walnuts, a whole baby pear, minia-ture and peeled, as well as poached in Port wine, withtomato cracker. The flavor combinations were sensational(ethereal). Adding immensely to this course was aGerman Kabinett: Niersteiner Bruchen, Strub, 2004,which paired exquisitely with the cheese, fruit and nuts.Bellisima!

It was fitting that the finale to this gastronomique adven-ture was another visually beautiful and sinfully richcourse: Gateau Monica - layered chocolate Genoisechocolate, meringue and Valrhona chocolate ganache,served with kiln-dried cherry sauce and black cherry icecream in a pecan wafer tuille. The flavor combinationsworked in harmony, each heightening the taste sensations.It was truly hedonistic; a chocolate lover’s dream. ACabernet Sauvignon from Australia, Mitolo, Serpico,2003, paired nicely with the chocolate. The evening wasnot over, however, as assorted petit fours and Ports wereoffered in the kitchen, which was quite a nice send off.

Accolades to the Culinary team of Algonquin GolfClub led by “St. Louis Chefs De Cuisine, Chef of theYear, 2006,” Craig Meyer, CEC, and assisted by ErikWright, sous chef, Mike Kennell, sous chef, and guestchef Daniel Pliska, CEC (executive chef of the UniversityClub of Columbia, MO). Accolades also go to the serviceteam led by Laurie Schwetz, clubhouse manager; GregTaube, dining room manager; Meghan Hearst, assistantcatering manger, and all the waiters and waitresses whoso expertly served all guests.

It was a memorable evening that will not soon beforgotten. Being in the food and beverage business, it didnot go unnoticed by me (and I am sure not by numerousothers) that the flawless and masterful culinary offeringsand table service were only achieved through hours ofhard work by the many individuals who are dedicated totheir craft and to the multi-talents of all those who assist-ed with the event. It is with sincere appreciationthat we say thanks to all of you.

Vol. 19 NO. 2 Spring 20067

Book Review:Judgment of Paris by George TaberMuch More Than a Book About a Wine Tasting

Reviewed by Orley Ashenfelter

George Taber has written much more than a book about awine tasting. Sure, the Judgment of Paris must be the mostfamous organized wine tasting of all time. And sure,California cabernet and chardonnay wines topped fineFrench products on French soil with French judges at a timewhen such an outcome (1976) was considered impossible byeveryone — not just the French!

But Taber’s book is more than the story of a wine tasting.In the same way that Sea Biscuit is more than a story abouta horse race and The Jackie Robinson Story is more than astory about baseball, Judgment of Paris is the story of thedevelopment of the California wine industry and of the per-sonalities who made it happen. If ever a story about winecould rise above the ubiquitous “cooking, wine and spirits”category and find a wider public, this is it.

As the only journalist present for this historic event, Taber,a long time business reporter who was then at Time maga-zine, is uniquely situated to set the record straight. Tabertells his story by following the history of the two men whomade the winning American wines: Mike Grgich, then wine-maker at Chateau Montelena, who produced the chardon-nay, and Warren Winiarski, founder of Stag’s Leap WineCellars, who produced the cabernet. Both these men havewonderful, classic American life stories of movement fromnothing to something. Mike Grgich (born in Croatia 82 yearsago as Miljenko Grgic?) arrived in the Napa Valley on aGreyhound bus in the summer of 1958 via Canada, where hehad immigrated in the hopes of a better life (and with $32sewn into a shoe)! Warren Winiarski, formerly a lecturer atthe University of Chicago in their (now defunct) GreatBooks program, followed Route 66 to California with hiswife and two young children with the same goal. Both mencertainly had some familiarity with the products they wereabout to produce, but this was a far cry from what you canlearn in a university today in Davis, Bordeaux orRoseworthy (the famous enology program in Australia).

We learn a lot about the paths these men take and howthey ended up being in the right place at the right time.Some of the common features of their good fortune seemalmost eerie. Though Robert Mondavi gets a whole chapterdevoted to him, the name that crops up over and over is J.Leland (Lee) Stewart. Amazingly, both Grgich’s andWiniarski’s first jobs in Napa were as assistants to Stewart.Connected to the Stanford family, Stewart’s SouverainVineyard provided some of the finest early examples of Napacabernet sauvignon. (I have recently tasted Souverain caber-nets from the 1960s that remain delicious.) These early days

in the Napa Valley were days of cooperation, convivialityand a lot of learning by doing.

The research behind Taber’s writing is truly staggering.Taber tracks down the story behind the wine makers of allthe wines in the competition, both American and French. Welearn that the Veedercrest Chardonnay in the competitionwas made by Al Baxter, a bohemian spirit if ever there wasone, who was a Professor of Philosophy at Berkeley and theauthor of the mystery novel Stay Me with Flagons! (The winedidn’t do so well, however, ranking ninth out of 10.)

There is a big payoff to Taber’s research, and especially tohis felicitous writing style. We see it best in Chapter 19,where hetells thestory of the“StunningUpset.”Taber doestwo thingsadmirably inthis chapter.First, he setsthe recordstraight.(Here Ihave a dis-claimer to make: I have published my own statistical analysisof the results of this wine tasting in a paper at this Website.As Taber correctly points out, however, the official tabula-tion did not include the scores of the English and Americanjudges, who organized the event, while mine did! Thoughthe overall results are not altered by this change, I am happyto stand corrected.) As Taber says, “...a whole mythologyabout the tasting grew up...as people in both California andFranc embellished the event....In fact, my major objective inwriting this book was to set the record straight.”

And then Taber brings to life the complex interaction ofthe judges and their own reactions to the wines. Standinglike a fly on the wall, while the judges tasted the wines blind-ly, Taber reports, “I soon realized that the judges werebecoming totally confused. The panel couldn’t tell the differ-ence between the French ones and those from California.”And, as they say, the rest is history.

Orley Ashenfelter is a Princeton Professor of Economics, author ofLiquid Assets and friend of the Wine Society. This article wasreprinted with his permission. For more information, please visitwww.liquidasset.com.

Vol. 19 NO. 2 Spring 20068

Pho

tos

Cou

rtes

yof

Bru

ceM

athe

wsWine Society Members Gathered In

Vol. 19 NO. 2 Spring 20069

Hawaii for Food, Wine and Camaraderie

Vol. 19 NO. 2 Spring 200610

Cellar NotesWhat Does J Stand For?

By Oliver Boudin, CCMSince my early days of visiting this enchanted place —

in the wine country of Northern California — I have beenattracted to the more traditional wineries that have madethe wine country what it is today. Among them are

Beringer, Buena Vista andMondavi wineries, and whenthey were on my schedule tovisit 13 years ago, they repre-sented the main entertainmentworld of Napa. It is interestingto see how much this haschanged today, but that is atopic for another time. My firstadventure in Napa was duringmy honeymoon when I wasable to con my new bride intodriving from Texas to NapaValley. This alone was some-

what of an adventure, as I have often thought about thediscovery of the West with that mysterious world to findat the end. Back then Napa and Sonoma had a muchsmaller number of wineries to visit. Throughout my manyvisits since that time, I have had the opportunity to visitdozens of wineries, domains and chateaux that representthe heartland of American winemaking. However, out ofthe entire lot of properties, one was always on my check-list to visit and revisit time after time.

Jordan Vineyard, out of Sonoma, nestled in the hills ofthe Russian Valley and overlooking some of the greatestvineyards in the United States, is a majestic 18th centurydesign chateau that stands in some of the most beautifulrolling hills in Northern California. Jordan Winery’s styleof winemaking is deeply rooted in tradition. The flagshiplabel has always been their traditional CabernetSauvignon that we have all learned to respect and enjoy.This stampede wine has been Tom Jordan’s pride sincethe winery was born in 1972. So, when in the late 1980sthe “J” label appeared on the shelves with this methodchampenoise sparklingwine, many were sur-prised that Jordanwould pull out of theircomfort zone of mak-ing CabernetSauvignon or

Chardonnay and come outwith a new packaging and anew varietal. Without a doubt,the birth of this new sparklingwine delighted Jordan enthusi-asts. The packaging wasattractive and the wine itselfwas showing nicely, laced withtoasty almond, lush apple andcitrus flavors. Interestingly, thecreation of “J” had little to dowith Tom Jordan, but ratherhis daughter, Judy, who

founded J Vineyard & Winery in 1986. If you go see theJordan Winery today and ask about the “J” label, youwill get a blank look and probably no answer to yourquestion as Jordan is trying to separate the “J" from theJordan label or, more correctly, trying to give Judy allthe merit that the success that J has experienced in just afew years.

This separation has been more and more visible in thepast few years, when Judy took the logical path of exper-imenting with Pinot Noir (theprimary varietal used forChampagne) with more than250 acres of estate vineyards,150 of which are planted withPinot Noir. Today, Judy has adiversified portfolio of wineincluding Pinot Noir from theRussian Valley and a small lotoverlooking the Russian Valleycalled Nichole’s. Probably one ofmy favorites, it is also experi-menting with some Pinot Gris,Syrah, Viognier and a few otherinteresting varietals. With Oded Shakked as winemaker,or wine grower, as he likes to be referred to due to hisstrong belief that everything begins on the vineyards,Judy Jordan has created a world of her own that she hasbuilt on her own merit with some fantastic wines anddeserves everyone’s attention.

So what does “J” stand for? It stands for Judy, but italso symbolizes her family name, Jordan, that willalways be associated with tradition in winemaking.

Vol. 19 NO. 2 Spring 200611

Society HappeningsWine Society Members Indulge in a Taste of the Islands

By Dolly Ammann, CCM

A Taste of the Islands was the theme of this year’s CMAAInternational Wine Society Dinner held at the OahuCountry Club on Tuesday,February 28. As you drive upthe Pali Highway, crossingfrom the leeward to thewindward side of the island,about midway up you findthe Oahu Country Clubnestled in the verdantNuuanu Valley with moun-tains soaring on either side.From the clubhouse loungeand dining room windows,one looks down the moun-tain, across the beautifullymanicured golf course to seethe imposing skyline ofHonolulu and the clear bluewaters of the Pacific Oceanbeyond. To say that the viewis spectacular is an under-statement.

The CMAA Conferenceopening event, the Club Tour,was held the night before theWine Society Dinner. TheOahu Country Club was oneof the three clubs hosting theClub Tour. With 1,800 clubmanagers and guests visitingeach club, the Oahu CountryClub staff had the challengeof preparing for a seven-course gourmet dinner withnine wines for 130 guests onthe following night. Whilesome managers would not have attempted such an ambitiousundertaking, General Manager Loren Pippen, CCM, andFood and Beverage Manager Cory Voss knew that theirwell-trained and highly motivated staff was up to the chal-lenge. The dinner that night represented the finest inHawaiian hospitality and a superlative culinary experiencethat will long be remembered by everyone who attended.

The spirit of Aloha and the magic of Polynesia was evidentfrom the minute guests arrived. The air was laden with theperfume of flower leis. Hawaiian music welcomed everyoneto an elegant evening of fine cuisine and marvelous wines.The festivities began with copious amounts of Tattinger

Champagne poured during the reception. There was roastKahlua suckling pig, sushi bar delicacies and caviar to savorwith Champagne before dinner was served.

When the dinner bellsounded, guests made theirway into the dining room tofind their places at elegantlyappointed tables gleamingwith silver, crystal glasswareand gorgeous tropical flowers.Wine Society Host DollyAmmann, CCM, andCellarmaster Ron Banasack,CCM, teamed up to welcomeguests with an Aloha greeting.Dolly thanked Oahu CountryClub President Phil Shimminfor hosting the dinner. Theevening’s honored guestswere Marty Clubb, ownerand winemaker at L’Ecole #41Winery, John Bookwalter ofJ. Bookwalter Winery andJeff Peda from InniskillinWines.

The first course was anupdated version of aHawaiian classic, a royalsteamed lau lau with islandmoi, opakapaka, uni gingerscallion sauce. This dish wasbeautifully presented and fab-ulous in every regard. It wasaccompanied by a L’Ecole #412004 “Walla Voila” CheninBlanc. This elegant wine isproduced from old vines,coming from a vineyard in

the Rattlesnake Hills, in a classic Vouvray style. Vibrantlyfruity and fragrant, it displays light citrus and orange blos-som aromas. It’s flavors of zesty lemon, pear and applepaired perfectly with the dish.

The second course, Mauka & Makai, was a Kahukuprawn with Kahlua duck springroll over sweet potato mashwith Hawaiian fruit relish. Two wines were offered with thiscourse, a classic Trimbach 2004 Gewürtztraminer from Alsaceand a J. Bookwalter 2005 Riesling from the Columbia Valley.Both wines, while stylistically different, paired beautifullywith the tropical flavors in the dish. A touch of residual

(continued on page 12)

Classic Hawaiian entertainment group "puamana" provided duringthe reception.

Wine Society Host Dolly Ammann, CCM, with John Bookwalter ofJ. Bookwalter Winery.

Society HappeningsWine Society Members Indulge in a Taste of the Islands

Vol. 19 NO. 2 Spring 200612

sweetness in the Reisling wasa good match for the sweet-ness in the fruit sauce. Bothwines exhibited good acidityand excellent balance.

The third course wasHukilau salad with Ahi, Opihiand Kona lobster poke saladwith Ogo dressing accompa-nied by Waimanalo greenshighlighted with squid luausauce. This exotic sauce is alocal Hawaiian specialty.Since this was the highlight ofthe course, it was matchedwith a magnificent L’Ecole No.41, Seven Hills Vineyard Estate2003 Merlot. The wine had ele-gance and finesse. This wasan adventuresome pairing thatworked remarkably well. Whowould think of pairing aMerlot with a salad featuringseafood? Even those whosepallet found the pairing not totheir liking enjoyed thisintensely complex Merlot.

The fourth course was aKau’ula tomato lomi sorbet tocleanse the pallet.

The entrée was Kamuelapride beef tenderloin withHamakua hon dhimeji mush-room, truffled Yukon mashedpotato on Taro cake, braisedShangai cabbage and stir-frylong beans. A Joseph Phelps2003 Le Mistral and a J.Bookwalter 2003 CabernetSauvignon were served withthe entrée. Both wines wereexcellent choices. Le Mistral isa blend of Syrah, Grenache,Petit Sirah and AlicanteBouschet from MontereyCounty. The wine is saturatedwith black fruit flavors withhints of roast meat, licoriceand spice. Full-bodied with well-integrated soft tannins, thewine had just the right balance to compliment the dish. The

J. Bookwalter CabernetSauvignon has 4 percentMalbec and 4 percent Merlotblended in. The fruit comesfrom the Horse Heaven Hillsand Red Mountain appella-tions. The wine has a toastyspiciness with flavors ofcherries, cassis and allspice.The wine is elegant andrefined with good structure.It was excellent with the beefentrée.

The cheese course was anovelty. It was baked smokedcheddar wrapped in follageand served with caramelizedcherry sauce. An aromaticL’Ecole No. 41, 2002 Apogee,Pepper Bridge Vineyard wasserved with this course.Apogee is a Bordeaux-styleblend of CabernetSauvignon, Merlot, Malbecand Cabernet Franc. Thewine has spicy aromas ofnutmeg and clove with a longfinish packed with dark fruit,chocolate and mint.

The dessert was created bythe pastry chef specifically topair with an Inniskillin 2003Oak Aged Vidal Ice Wine fromthe Niagra Penninsula. Thedessert was a fabulous choco-late coconut chiffon towerwith raspberry compote andTahitian vanilla friandise.The wine was luscious, richand complex, with flavors offresh nectarine, tangerine,litchi and exotic spices. Itwas a mouthful of utter deca-dence to savor and remem-ber. Then, after Kona coffee,it was time to retire to thepatio for some after-dinnerPort, ice wines and cigars.

(continued from page 11)

Royal Steamed Lau Lau with Island Moi, Opakapaka, Uni GingerSauce.

Host Dolly Ammann, CCM and Cellarmaster Ron Banasack, CCM,welcome guests with a big Aloha.

From left to right; Oahu Country Club President Phil Shimmin,Carol Shimmon, Loren Pippin, CCM, Carol Pippin, Oahu CountryClub Wine Committee Chair Bill Dixon, Pat Dixon, Kun HwaGehres, Rainer Gehres

Vol. 19 NO. 2 Spring 200613

Society HappeningsWine Society Members Experience True Taste of Hawaii at Pre-ConferenceFood and Wine Workshop

By Andrew Curtis, CCM, CMP

First, I would like to thank everyone who actually put thiswonderful workshop together. Allan Lum, CCM, generalmanager of the Waialae Country Club, was our on-site coor-dinator in Hawaii who handled all the requests from the“Mainland” and developed the program. Our speaker andtour guide was Jo McGarry, who was also “discovered” byAllan. She is a well-known radio personality, prolific writerand a food and beverage specialist for the Hawaiian experi-ence. She also writes a daily column for a major Honolulunewspaper, the Star Bulletin and was an incredible source ofinformation. Last but not least, Kathi Driggs at CMAAHeadquarters, our fearless leader of logistics and HonoraryWine Society member, coordinated this challenging schedule.She controlled the event costs, secured the transport, pur-chased the speaker’s gift and confirmed the attendees whilemaintaining her usual perfect timing to get us off on time.What a great way to start a workshop.

We departed at 6:00 a.m. from the Hilton HawaiianVillage bus depot, and it was indeed a quiet ride toHonolulu’s United Fishing Agency. This was a chance to seehow the daily fishing catch is brought it, handled, auctionedand delivered to its final destination. It truly is an amazingprocess handled by amazing people. Upon arrival, we splitinto four groups, each with a representative of the agency toguide us through the process. Leading our group was BrooksTekenaka, the head of the Agency. Brooks shared his knowl-edge and expertise of the Hawaiian fishing industry andexplained how fishing in Hawaii is tightly controlled withrestrictions on what can be caught and how it is handleduntil it arrives at the agency.

Net fishing is not allowed; only hooks on a baited line. Theline can go out for three or four miles. Each boat may go out

for three days, or sometimes, up to three weeks, dependingon the fishing spot. The crews are well-respected and arepersonally trained by the captain of the boat. The logicbehind that is if each member of the crew is treated well,they in turn will treat the fish with the same respect. Thistranslates into an undamaged, higher quality product and,ultimately, a higher price for the catch. This really soundslike the way we try to run our clubs, only our membersreplace the fish. Perhaps the hook is the initiation fee andthe bait is the “perceived value” of belonging? One notablestatistic was that this agency processes more than 8 millionpounds of tuna annually. Perhaps the largest tuna catch inthe world?

We then moved on to a scenic tour of Chinatown with Jopointing out the best restaurants in the area. We stopped atthe Harbor View restaurant for an 8:30 a.m. breakfast ofDim Sum. Thanks again to Jo, the owner, Li May Tang, hadagreed to open up three hours early just to accommodate us.A wonderful selection of dumplings, crispy treats and othergoodies prepared us for our next stop.

After breakfast, we moved onto Ranch 99, an unusualmarket that enclosed an Asian supermarket and combinedfood market. You could buy interesting food to take home orsit and enjoy the food of several cultures. Pigs ears, piguterus or cow intestines anyone?

Next, we took a short ride to Nalo Farms to see how thefinest “greens” are grown, processed, shipped and, ultimately,end up on the plates of the best restaurants in Hawaii.

Dean Okimoto, the owner, gave us a personal tour of hisfarm. As you can see from the photographs, it was a mostpicturesque location. He explained that it only takes threeweeks from planting a seed to harvesting the greens.

(continued on page 14)

Auctioneer going down the line with prospective buyers making priceoffers (from $6-$10 per pound depending on the quality of tuna).

Yellow fin tuna are ready for auction at Honolulu's United FishingAgency.

Society HappeningsWine Society Members Experience True Taste of Hawaii at Pre-ConferenceFood and Wine Workshop

Vol. 19 NO. 2 Spring 200614

What an amazingly short time. He finished the tour with atasting of the “greens” of Nalo Farms along with his ownprivate label salad dressing.

Finally, we returned to the bus and were on our way toRoy’s. Jo took us on a scenic detour so that we could enjoysome of the beauty of the Island. Roy Yamaguchi had actuallyopened early for us as well. It was wonderful to see the abun-dant effort that was put into a lunch for our group to enjoy. Westarted with fresh yellow fin tuna tartare, then on to a garlicchili Kona Kampachi. A brief intermezzo of Maine lobster cap-puccino followed by a seared sea scallop and foie gras enclosedin polenta. The entrée was Szechwan grilled rack of lamb withblack sticky rice and a red wine curry. The finale was a “BigIsland pineapple upside down cake” with a dark rum caramelsauce. All the courses were paired with Roy’s personal selec-tion of matching wines, from a light and refreshing Prosecco tohis desolation Cabernet Sauvignon. It had to be the best six-course luncheon I have ever had, accompanied by Roy’s out-standing service and gracious hospitality.

What a wonderful wayfor the attending WineSociety Members to endtheir workshop! Wereceived a quality educa-tion and were able toexplore the island. All-in-all, it was a magnificentday out away fromConference!

Postscript:During our five-day

Conference directlyfollowing the workshop,I was stopped by severalparticipants to tell mehow much they enjoyedthe day and how well itwas executed. On behalf of those who were recognizedearlier and made it successful, it was indeed a pleasure.

(continued from page 13)

Jo McGarry highlighting the scenic views of the island.

Nalo Farms: from seed to full bloom in three weeks.

One of several swordfishing boatsjust returning from a three-weektrip.

Society HappeningsDon't Miss Out on theChile/Argentina Wine and FoodWorkshop!

There are stillspaces available forthe Chile/ArgentinaFood and WineWorkshop being heldOctober 21-29, 2006.The workshop willstart in Santiago,Chile, and end inBuenos Aires,Argentina. Attendeeswill receive 30Education credits forcomplete attendanceand successful completion of the written exam. The work-shop fee is $1,850 per person. For more information and toregister, please visit http://www.cmaa.org/winesoc/2006ChileTrip.pdf.

Please plan on joining the group. You are guaranteed agreat time and a wonderful, educational experience!

Vol. 19 NO. 2 Spring 200615

Society HappeningsAnother Year, Another Successful Wine Auction

By Art Barajas, CCM

Last year, as the Wine Society began planning for theWine Auctions at the 2006 World Conference in Hawaii,several issues and concerns were discussed regardingwhether or not the auctions would be successful. Themain concern was related to the cost of shipping items toHawaii. Next, concerns were voiced as to whether theauctions could raise as much money in Hawaii as theyhad in past years and whether the Wine Society shouldjust give it a break for a year.

We had half the battle won when The Club Foundationagreed to once again pay for the shipping cost to get thedonations to the auction clearinghouse. Special thanks tothe staff at the Pacific Club for taking on the task of serv-ing as the clearinghouse. Joe Clark and Kelly Nishimuradid a great job of storing the donations and communicat-ing with us on the mainland the status of shipmentsreceived. This is not an easy thing to do when most of thedonations are shipped just before the reimbursementdeadline and occasionally a box gets delivered with pur-ple stuff leaking from it.

The next issue we addressed was how to make auctionitems a perceived value to potential bidders? What couldwe do to convince managers to bid high, bid often andstill feel that they had gotten a deal when they shipped theiritems home?

To make up a possible shortfall, Andy Curtis, CCM, cameup with the great idea of having wristbands made up thatsaid “International Wine Society for CF.” Andy’s idea turnedout to be successful, while we didn’t sell them all, we raised$5,065 through sale of wristbands.

Time for a change! With the previously mentioned topicsout on the table, we had to change the criteria a bit. Wewanted to elevate the event to a new level. We increased theminimum value of each box shipped for reimbursement to$500. It appears that this change did exactly what we want-ed it to do. Every year, we have been getting better and bet-ter donations, but I think the quality of this year’s donationsto the auctions tops all previous.

The 2006 auctions could not be such a success if weren’tfor the 19 chapters that donated and the volunteers whohelped with all of the setup. Thanks to Dolly Ammann,CCM, and her husband, Kurt, Craig Wilberg, Oliver BoudinCCM, (the three different wineries represented to pour ondifferent days was a great change), Andy Curtis, CCM, RonBanaszak, CCM, Brent Tartamella, CCM, and the 21 stu-

dents from the Cal Poly Pomona student chapter. Lastly,thank goodness for our National staff for their organizationalskills. Without Melissa Low and her team, the auctionswould have taken a lot more time.

When all the dust finally settled, we were able to sort outwho won the ultimate prize - the Bucky Trophy. The smallchapter award went to the Alabama chapter, the mediumchapter award went to the St. Louis District and the largechapter award went to the Metropolitan chapter.Congratulations to each of these chapters; they received a$1,000 grant from The Club Foundation. The winner of theBuckey Trophy was the Metropolitan chapter. It alsoreceived an additional $1,000 grant for the most overalldonations.

It’s a lot of fun seeing new wines. What is even moreenjoyable is the opportunity to see long-time friends, meetnew friends and talk wine as well as share wine. The successof the event is ultimately measured by how much money israised. We raised $24,105 in the silent auction and $5,560 inthe live auction, plus the money from the wristbands for atotal raised for The Club Foundation of $34,730.

I look forward to seeing everyone next year in Anaheim,CA. The Conference location is just a hop, skip and a jumpdown the freeway for me; most likely, I will again be sortingthrough all the donations. Thanks again to all those whodonated, volunteered, bid or just stopped by to look.

Congratulations and Thank You to the ChaptersThat Sent Donations to Hawaii for the Auction!

Your efforts are appreciated!

Overall Bucky Award Winner –Metropolitan Chapter donated $15,000 +

In each chapter size category, the following chaptersdonated the most wine by value and will receive an

education grant from The Club Foundation!

Large – Metropolitan

Medium – St. Louis Chapter donated $1,300

Small – Alabama Chapter donated $2,000

Society HappeningsClubs Recognized for Exceptional Wine Programs

Vol. 19 NO. 2 Spring 200616

2005 Wine Program Awards Winners Announced

CMAA’s International Wine Society announced the winners for the third annual Wine Program Awards at this year’sWorld Conference in Hawaii. The objective of the Wine Program Awards is to recognize the best club wine programs on anannual basis and to laud CMAA member-managed clubs that establish and maintain fine wine programs for their member-ship. These awards are meant to be a hallmark of quality and assurance of an eminent wine program and should be used tomarket the club’s food and beverage program to its membership. Awards are given in the categories of merit and distinction.

Congratulations to this year’s winners!

Awards of DistinctionHouston Country Club Houston, TXThe Los Angeles Country Club Los Angeles, CA Valley Hunt Club Pasadena, CA

Award of MeritBellerive Country Club St. Louis, MOCatawba Island Club Port Clinton, OHCenter Club Costa Mesa, CAChevy Chase Club Chevy Chase, MDElk River Club Banner Elk, NCFairbanks Ranch Country Club Rancho Santa Fe, CAHeritage Club Mason, OHInterlachen Country Club Edina, MNSailfish Point Country Club Stuart, FLThe Reserve Club Indian Wells, CA

Information on the Wine Program Awards can be found on ClubNet® at www.cmaa.org/winesoc.

(continued on page 17)

IWS Host Dolly Ammann, CCM, presents special award toChuck Walter, CCM, for outstanding service to CMAA wineeducation programs.

GrapevineWorld Wine Regions Sign Declaration to Protect Integrity of Place Names

Producers of Champagne, Port and Sherry joined winemak-ers from Napa Valley, Oregon and Washington State at theVin Expo last July in signing a declaration of joint principlesstating the importance of location to wine and the need to pro-tect place names.

The unprecedented meeting marked the beginning of abroad-based, collaborative effort on the part of wine tradeassociations that focuses on educating consumers about theimportance of wine origins and the practice of clear and accu-rate labeling.

This show of support led to the Napa Summit held in Napaa few weeks later, at which Champagne, Port and Sherry rep-resentatives met with representatives from Oregon,Washington and the Napa Valley in order to form the Allianceof Wine Regions.

The Declaration

Whereas, it is acknowledged that there are extraordinaryplaces on Earth from which great wine is consistently pro-duced.

Whereas, the names of these places are printed on labelsside-by-side with the names of the producers to identify theorigin of the wine.

Whereas, wine, more than any other beverage, is valuedbased on its association to its place of origin.

Whereas, even before modern technology allowed us to tiespecific definitions to soils, terrain and climates of noted wineregions, winemakers were drawn to these special places.

Vol. 19 NO. 2 Spring 200617

GrapevineWorld Wine Regions Sign Declaration to Protect Integrity of Place Names

(continued from page 16)

(continued on page 18)

GrapevineWine Society Annual Business Meeting Wine Test

Each year, Wine Society members are eager to seethe answers the infamous annual wine test. Here arethe questions to the 2006 test which was administeredat the Annual Wine Society Business Meeting byTerrence Polcari.

The members who scored the highest were TomSporadino, David Hill, CCM, Dolly Ammann, CCM,Kirk Reese, CCM, Paul Anthony, CCM, and MattOggero, CCM. The managers then participated in ablind tasting, with Matt Oggereo, CCM, emerging vic-torious.

The answers can be found on page 20.

True or False1. ____ Champagnes second fermentation process is

called “remuage.”

2. ____ The term “sur lie” describes wines that have beenkept on their lees and have not been racked or filtered priorto bottling.

3. ____ Hogshead barrels with the capacity of 300 to 315litres are commonly used in France and the United States.

4. ____ “Dosage” is the term used denoting sugar that isadded to a sparkling wine before disgorgement.

5. ____ The other main sweet wine producing districtalong with Sauternes in the Bordeaux Region is Barsac.

6. ____ A shallow, dimpled silver cup used by sommeliersfor tastings is called a Tastevin.

7. ____ Many of the world’s finest Rieslings have the zestycharacter of petrol.

8. ____ The Ugni Blanc grape is widely used to make fineCognac and Armangnac.

9. ____ Grenache is traditionally used in Bordeaux blendsto add color and tannin.

10. ____ The Margaret River is located on the easternside of Australia.

11. ____ The northern Cote du Rhone has less crus thanthe south.

12. ____ Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay make up Blanc deBlanc Champagne.

Multiple Choice13. France's northern most wine-making region is:

a) Loire c) Alsaceb) Champagne d) Chablis

14. Wild Horse Valley is located in:a) San Luis Obispo c) Montereyb) Santa Barbara d) none of the above

15. The German name for Botrytis Cinera, “The NobleRot”:

a) Edelfaule c) Erbachb) Erzeugarabfullung d) Erden

16. The sweet wines of the Cote du Rhone are called:a) Hermitage c) Beaumes de Veniseb) Cote Rotie d) Tavel

Whereas, the names of these places are familiar and synony-mous with quality.

Whereas, we respectfully submit that the place where wineis grown plays a very important role in a consumer’s selectionprocess.

Whereas, we are furthermore united in our belief that thegeographic place names of wine regions are the sole birthright

of the grapes that are grown there, and when these namesappear on wines that do not contain grapes from that region,they lose their integrity and their relevance to consumers.

Therefore, be it resolved that we, as representatives of someof the world’s leading wine regions, join together in supportingefforts to maintain and respect the integrity of these placenames, which are fundamental tools for consumer identificationof great wine-growing regions and the wines they produce.

GrapevineWine Society Annual Business Meeting Wine Test

Vol. 19 NO. 2 Spring 200618

17. The appellation of Redwood Valley is in:a) Mendocino County c) Sierra Foot Hillsb) Monterey County d) Sonoma County

18. In Italy, the term used to designate selected grapesfrom the uppermost part of the bunches that are left to dryor raisinate on racks after picking is:

a) Recioto c) Anjoub) Amabile d) Calabria

19. The Brix content within fermented grape juice refersto amount of:

a) acidity c) sugarb) fruit flavors d) none of the above

20. The Pomerol District in the Bordeaux region primarlyproduces wines made from:

a) Cabernet c) Petit Verdot b) Sauvignon Blanc d) Merlot

21. A Greek wine to which pine sap or resin has beenadded, giving it a woody, pitch flavor, is known as:

a) Recolte c) Regnieb) Retsina d) no such thing

22. Gisborne is an appellation associated with:a) New Zealand c) Victoriab) Australia d) South Africa

23. Italy’s version of the red Zinfandel is called:a) Corvina c) Passitob) Sangiovese d) none of the above

24. Alicante is another term for the grape:a) Pinot Gris c) Malbecb) Grenache d) Sauvignon

25. Which is not one of the Bordeaux varietals:a) Cabernet Sauvignon c) Mouvedrab) Petit Verdot d) Merlot

26. The sweetest and rarest of all sherry is:a) Amontillado c) Olorosob) Pedro Ximenez d) Cream

27. Mount Veeder is in what California AVA:a) Napa County c) Montereyb) Sonoma County d) none of the above

28. Savennieres is made from what grape:a) Chenin Blanc c) Pinot Blancb) Sauvignon Blanc d) none of the above

29. The space between the top of the wine and the head ofthe bottle or cask is called:

a) Trie c) Veraisonb) Ullage d) both a and b

30. A term used when referring to the deliberate removalof tannins:

a) maderized c) mutageb) passerillage d) leaching

31. Tannins are imparted into wine by:a) grape skins c) barrelsb) seeds and stems d) all of the above

32. Vinho Verde is produced in what country?a) France c) Italy b) Spain d) Portugal

Fill in the Blank 33. What is the northern most growing region of

Burgundy?

34. What is the famous German-speaking wine region inFrance?

35. Name any three of seven Grand Cru Vineyards ofChablis.

36. Name any of the three major districts of Bordeaux.

37. The French abbreviation A.O.C. stands for whatterm?

38. The American abbreviation A.V.A. stands for whatterm?

39. Identify Germany’s three major white wine grapes.

40. What is the grape that produces the great wines ofBarolo and Barbaresco?

41. What are the three major levels of Spanish Rioja?

42. Sercial and Malmsey are types of?

(continued from page 17)

(continued on page 19)

Vol. 19 NO. 2 Spring 200619

GrapevineWine Society Annual Business Meeting Wine Test

Match the Appellations to the Appropriate A.V.A. Extra Credit Name the 10 Cru Beaujolais.

43. _____ Sonoma County a) Umpqua Valley 44. _____ Napa County b) Paso Robles, Edna Valley45. _____ Monterey c) Dry Creek, Chalk Hill46. _____ Mendocino d) Columbia Valley47. _____ Sacramento e) Wild Horse Valley, Atlas Peak48. _____ San Luis Obispo f) Anderson Valley, McDowell Valley49. _____ Washington g) Lodi50. _____ Oregon h) Carmel Valley

(continued from page 18)

The Wine Society Would Like to Welcome its Newest Members:

Mrs. Teresa AndersonCity Club of Forth Worth

Mr. Mario BotindariBanyan Golf Club

Mr. Brian Carlson, CCMBahia Corinthian Yacht Club

Mr. Arthur J. Crouch, CCMRidgewood Country Club

Mr. Matthew DavidIndian Hills Country Club

Mr. Scott FantonThe Reserve Clu

bMr. Robert J.Green, Jr., CCMCountry Club of the North

Mr. Mark GrishamOld Waverly Golf Club

Mr. Stephen HurdTuscon Country Club

Mr. Nathan JohnsonWakonda Club

Mr. Larry KatzSummit Club South Bend

Mr. Craig LopesThe Moorings Club

Mr. Colin Mack-AllenBelle Haven Country Club

Mr. David MartelBalboa Yacht Club

Mr. Peter A. McEachernBlack Rock Country Club

Mr. Steven L. Padulsky, CCMAlgonquin Club

Ms. Rachel PendergrastOakland Hills Country Club

Mr. Brian S. ReevesAugusta National Golf Club

Mr. Andy RosenfieldThe Country Club

Mr. Michael D. Seabrook, CCMThe Club at Mediterra

Mr. Michael ThackersonFort Worth Club

Mr. David R. Tyson, CCMBelle Haven Country Club

Mr. Michael WolcottMaryland Golf and Country Club

GrapevineAnswers to Wine Society Business Meeting Wine Test on page 17.

Vol. 19 NO. 2 Spring 200620

(Each answer worth 2 points) (Answer Key)

True or False

1. T 6. T

2. T 7. T

3. F 8. T

4. F 9. F

5. T 10. F

6. T 11. F

7. T 12. F

Multiple Choice

13. b 23. d

14. d 24. b

15. a 25. c

16. c 26. b

17. a 27. a

18. a 28. a

19. c 29. b

20. d 30. d

21. b 31. d

22. a 32. d

Fill in the Blank

33. Chablis

34. Alsace

35. Les Clos, Vandesir, Valmur, Bougros, Blanchot,

Preuses, Greuovilles

36. Mendoc, Graves, Entre, Deux Mers, Pomorol,

Bourg, Blye, St. Emillion

37. Appellation d’origine Controlee

38. American Viticulture Area

39. Riesling, Silvander, Muller-Thurgau

40. Nebbiolo

41. Crianza, Reserva, Gran Reserva

42. Maderia

Match the Appellations to the Appropriate A.V.A

43. c 47. d

44. e 48. b

45. a 49. g

46. f 50. h

Extra Credit (Each answer worth 1 point)

Name the 10 Cru Beaujolais:

1. Brouilly 6. Julienas

2. Cote de Brouilly 7. Morgon

3. Chenas 8. Moulin a Vent

4. Chiroubles 9. Regnie

5. Fleurie 10. Saint Amour