Waves
description
Transcript of Waves
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Waves
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Classifying Waves
Waves are classified according to type of force that disturbs the water to make the wave
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Wind Waves
• Wave progresses as the water moves in a circular path
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Orbital Motion of Wind Waves
• Water moves in orbits
• Orbits get smaller the deeper you go.
• At a depth equal to ½ the wavelength, there is no more water motion or the wave base.
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Deep Water vs. Shallow Water Waves• Deep-water wave – when a wave is
traveling in water deeper than ½ its wavelength.– Speed is controlled by it’s wavelength.
Longer waves are faster.
• Shallow-water wave- When a wave is traveling in water shallower than ½ its wavelength. – Speed is controlled by water depth – Friction with the bottom slows down
the wave and flattens the orbit.
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Variables Controlling Wind-Wave Energy
• Wind velocity – wind must be moving faster than the wave for energy transfer to continue.
• Wind duration – Winds that blow for a short time will not generate large waves
• Fetch – Uninterrupted distance over which wind blows without changing direction. Longer fetch = larger waves.
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Variables Controlling Wind-Wave Energy
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Internal Waves• Waves that occur
at the boundaries of water layers of different densities.
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Surf and Breaking Waves
• In deep water waves break when their height to wavelength ratio exceeds one to seven = H:L ratio exceeds 1:7
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• Very destructive• Wave does not break, but rolls onto beach
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• Wave curls and forms a tunnel• Expert surfers love these (totally tubular)
or (pipe dreams)
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• Gentlest of wave interactions• Easiest to learn to surf on
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Surf• Plunging Breakers – characterized by a curl as the top of
the wave pitches through the air before splashing into the bottom…Beaches with a steep incline
• Spilling Breakers – characterized by the top of the wave tumbling and sliding down the front of the wave as it decelerates slowly.—Beaches with a gentle slope
• Surging Breakers – on very steep beaches that are almost like walls