Waves n Characteristics of All Wind-generated Waves n Deep Water Waves n Shallow Water Waves n Other...
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Transcript of Waves n Characteristics of All Wind-generated Waves n Deep Water Waves n Shallow Water Waves n Other...
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WavesWaves
Characteristics of All Wind-generated Waves
Deep Water Waves
Shallow Water Waves
Other Water Waves
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Parts of WavesParts of Waves• Crest and Trough Crest and Trough
• Wavelength (L)Wavelength (L)
• Wave Height (H)Wave Height (H)
depends on wind speed, open depends on wind speed, open distance (fetch), wind durationdistance (fetch), wind duration
• Period (T)Period (T)
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Motion of Water MoleculesMotion of Water MoleculesCircularCircular motion to depth equal to motion to depth equal to
one half of the wavelengthone half of the wavelength
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Deep Water Waves Deep Water Waves
• Water depthWater depth > one-half wavelength > one-half wavelength
• All wind-generated waves in open All wind-generated waves in open ocean, but many other waves, tooocean, but many other waves, too
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Deep Water Waves (cont.)Deep Water Waves (cont.)
•SEASEA: within storm regions: within storm regions
– Choppy/Chaotic surfaceChoppy/Chaotic surface– Contrast with Contrast with SWELLSWELL
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Deep Water Waves (cont.)Deep Water Waves (cont.)
• SWELLSWELL: outside of storm regions: outside of storm regions
– Smooth shapeSmooth shape– Sorted by wavelengthSorted by wavelength
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Shallow Water WavesWaves
• Waves in Waves in water depth water depth less than less than 1/201/20 of wavelength of wavelength
• Often associated with surf zoneOften associated with surf zone
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Shallow Water Waves (cont)Shallow Water Waves (cont)
Varieties of Varieties of Surf:Surf:
Consider slope Consider slope of ocean floorof ocean floor
• PlungingPlunging
• SpillingSpilling
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spilling
plunging
surging
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Wave Speed (L/T)
• Deep WaterDeep Water– Speed = 1.56T Speed = 1.56T – T= period or time between two T= period or time between two
successive crestssuccessive crests
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Wave Speed (L/T)
• Shallow water wave speedShallow water wave speed = = 3.1 x square root Depth3.1 x square root Depth
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Wave RefractionWave Refraction
• Bending of wave crestsBending of wave crests
• Waves approach beach at angleWaves approach beach at angle
• One part One part of crest reaches shallow of crest reaches shallow water first and water first and slows downslows down
• Waves become more parallel to shoreWaves become more parallel to shore
Drawing of beach…..Drawing of beach…..
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Wave Refraction
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Refraction along irregular Refraction along irregular coastcoast
• note note distribution of distribution of wave energywave energy
• most of energy strikes headlandsmost of energy strikes headlands
• causes erosion of headland, causes erosion of headland, deposition in baysdeposition in bays
• coastal straightening coastal straightening occursoccurs
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Other Ocean WavesOther Ocean Waves
• Tsunamis Tsunamis
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TsunamisTsunamis
• Seismic sea waves Seismic sea waves ( tidal waves)( tidal waves)
• disturbance of ocean floordisturbance of ocean floor– volcanic eruptionvolcanic eruption– certain earthquakescertain earthquakes– landslideslandslides
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Tsunamis (cont)Tsunamis (cont)
• speed greater than speed greater than 700 km/hr700 km/hr
• wavelength greater than wavelength greater than 200 km200 km
• crests can exceed crests can exceed 30 m 30 m as reach as reach shoreshore
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Information on tsunamisInformation on tsunamis
• http://http://nctr.pmel.noaa.govnctr.pmel.noaa.gov//