VISITOR'S SURVIVAL KIT -MOZAMBIQUE

Introduction 1. Before the visit 1.1. Timing, contacts and visit program 1.1.1. High and low seasons and public holidays in Mozambique 1.1.2. Contacts to project partners 1.1.3. Contacts to KEPA 1.1.4. Preparing the program 1.2. Documents 1.2.1. Tickets 1.2.2. Visas 1.2.3. Customs 1.2.4. Others 1.3. Budgeting the visit 1.3.1. Travel costs 1.3.2. Costs of living 1.3.3. KEPA service charges 1.3.4. Ad hoc 1.3.5. Forms of payment 1.4. Information about the country 1.4.1. Internet links 1.4.2. KEPA library 1.4.3. Other recommended reading 1.5. Other aspects to be considered already before take-off 1.5.1. How to deal with people in general 1.5.2. How to deal with local authorities 1.5.3. A few recommendations and warnings 2. Welcome to Maputo City and Province 2.1. Accommodation 2.2. Money exchange & credit cards 2.3. Transport 2.4. Eating out 2.5. Sightseeing & entertainment 2.6. Shopping 2.7.Security 2.8. Communications 2.8.1. Post & fax services 2.8.2. Telephones 2.8.3. Mobile phones 2.8.4. Internet cafés & e-mail services 2.9. Important addresses & telephone numbers 3. Welcome to Cabo Delgado & Nampula 3.1. Accommodation 3.2. Money exchange & credit cards 3.3. Transport 3.4. Eating out 3.5. Sightseeing & entertainment 3.6. Shopping 3.7. Security & health 3.8. Communications 3.9. Important addresses & telephone numbers

Introduction

KEPA Mozambique receives close to a hundred visitors annually, and it seems that the number is constantly increasing. In order to facilitate the travel arrangements and the actual stay in Mozambique we decided to prepare this document, which is an improved version of the "Welcome to Maputo" leaflet distributed in the 1990’s. The main purpose is to give the visitor the basic information about the practicalities in one package and some hints on where to get more things to read. Also, hopefully this will help save the time of both the visitors themselves and the KEPA staff, as at least some information is readily available. We aim to improve and update this document regularly, so comments are very much appreciated; the intention is to do a thorough update at least twice a year. Of course this kind of a leaflet cannot contain all the necessary information; therefore please do not hesitate to ask, should you need something more.

1. Before the visit 1.1. Timing contacts and visit program 1.1.1. High and low seasons and public holidays in Mozambique Although we are lucky to be situated within the same time zone, it is good to remember the difference in the seasons between Finland and Mozambique. As you have winter, we have summer and vice versa. As you go on summer holidays around midsummer until August, here everybody is working. And when Mozambique practically closes down around mid-December until the beginning of February, you would be happy to receive your year-end reports and possibly make a monitoring visit to your project.

Another factor to be considered is the weather. Many people coming from Finland would probably prefer Mozambique's cool and dry winter months -were they not in the middle of the Nordic summer. A visit in the rainy season requires a few enquiries and arrangements, particularly if you intend to visit the provinces, travel to the districts or even visit suburbs of Maputo; at least you will need a 4x4 vehicle to do this, preferably also an experienced driver, and even so it might sometimes be impossible to reach every corner of the country. In the rainy season it also often happens that people get late to meetings due to transport problems etc.

One more difficulty related to the weather particularly in the hot season is that obviously your efficiency at work is not at its best, if you have just experienced a change of the temperature of 60-70 degrees within 24 hours. Furthermore, in the rainy season you should pay special attention to the use of insect repellents to avoid malaria mosquito bites. Generally, on health matters kindly consult your doctor for vaccinations and malaria prophylactics.

Around Maputo area the rainy season lasts normally from November until March-April; this is also the hottest time. May and August are usually rather cool and dry, June and July the coldest months (with night temperatures around 10-15 degrees and strong winds). September is the spring month with rapid changes from heat to chilly storms and occasional rainfall.

In the northern provinces of Cabo Delgado and Nampula the rainy season starts around December and ends in April; when it rains many places are inaccessible. Another point to be considered particularly when working on the countryside is that the harvesting period starts in July.

The weather conditions naturally have their consequences to the contents of your

suitcase. There can be drastic differences in the temperature between day-and nighttime, so it is best to be equipped with a variety of clothes. Normally, lightweight clothing can be worn, preferably in natural fibers, e.g. cotton. Long sleeves and pants should be worn in the evenings to prevent being bitten by mosquitoes. Take a few lightweight jerseys with you, though you may very well never need them. When it rains, it pours, so it is recommended to bring a light raincoat.

Furthermore, regarding the timing, most of the visits of FNGO representatives are rather short; from a few days to a couple of weeks. Consequently, attention should be paid to visit preparations to get the maximum out of your visit. Being well aware of your time and budget constraints, we would still like to recommend extending your visits for a few more days, since things simply do not happen in the same pace as in Finland. Flexibility and patience in situations with delays and cancellations is the only way to get anywhere; kindly also consider the extra time required for interpretations, moving from place to place etc.

Public holidays in Mozambique are another matter to add in your planning process. Below you will find a list of all annual public holidays. Additionally there are the "dia da cidade" (City Day) celebrations; every city and town has its own yearly day, usually the day when the town was founded. Maputo city day is 10 November, Nampula 22 August and Pemba 18 October. When a public holiday falls on a Sunday, the following Monday is off. Also, when a public holiday falls on a Tuesday or a Thursday, plenty of people have the previous Monday or the following Friday off as holiday or overtime compensation to enjoy a long weekend. Kindly note these facts when making your visit plans!!!!!

Public holidays:

New Year's Day 1 January Mozambican Heroes' Day 3 February Women's Day 7 April International Workers' Day 1 May Independence Day 25 June Lusaka Agreement / Victory Day 7 September Revolution Day 25 September Peace Day 10 OctoberChristmas / Family Day 25 December

Additionally the Government gives permission to the whole population or certain groups to take one or half a day off on special occasions ("tolerância de ponto"), for example Muslims on certain days of Ramadan, Christians at Good Friday, everybody on special days such as eclipse etc. It is not always possible to predict these occasional holidays -they are usually announced only 1-2 days in advance in the newspaper.

Weekends are normally for rest and relaxation, even for NGO activists and KEPA staff. Please respect people's privacy and need to recharge their batteries when making your visit plans.

1.1.2. Contacts to project partners Generally, we would like to encourage the Finnish NGOs to maintain as much direct contacts to the Mozambican project partners as possible -not only to release our time for other activities, but mainly to help improve the communication and understanding between the partners. This has proved useful for the success of the work.

Also, when planning a visit, it is important to consult or at least inform your counterpart organization well in advance about the timing, the purpose and the objectives of your visit. If your partner is a local NGO, the communication can be as informal as it normally is; a simple e-mail or fax communication is usually sufficient. But if you intend to discuss with government authorities, whether central or province level, municipal councils or other authorities, kindly pay attention to the formalities and the level of the persons to be contacted. An official letter to the relevant minister, director or governor takes you a huge step further, particularly when sent early and in Portuguese.

Especially if your visit includes official negotiations, it is important to find out who are the people who can actually make decisions and contact them directly. It is a good idea to present your ideas regarding the visit program and let your local partner take care of the arrangements, with our assistance if necessary.

In many cases there are technical problems in direct communication due to malfunctioning or nonexistent faxes and e-mails -in these cases you can use the KEPA Maputo and / or Pemba office facilities for your messages to be forwarded to your partners.

1.1.3. Contacts to KEPA As mentioned earlier, KEPA Mozambique receives plenty of visitors -which is good, as we have seen the positive impacts of face-to-face communication over the years. However, we would appreciate it very much, if you would inform us as early as possible about your visit plans, that is, if you intend to use our services. It is mainly the project adviser (liaison officer post was finished in 2007), who coordinates the services, but many things also involve other staff members, and therefore we all need to be prepared to receive you.

In the annex you will find a list of services provided by KEPA Mozambique for the FNGOs, as well as the prices for them. Please note that the charges are to cover the actual costs of your visits and other services agreed separately with each organization when drafting the service plan. The guidelines attached to the said plan also indicate the services covered by the annual membership fee of your organization. If your organization has not yet made the plan, please proceed with it at your earliest convenience in collaboration with the project advisers.

When communicating with KEPA kindly use at least English as the language of written communication, if you cannot write Portuguese. This particularly if you wish the information to be forwarded or explained to your Mozambican partner, but also to facilitate the work of our national colleagues for example in the absence of the Finnish speaking persons. Our time is very limited, and even an English language communication could save bits of it, since your partner would understand at least parts of the message, and just consult the rest. Or, if a translation of an entire document is needed, obviously an English-Portuguese translator is far easier to come by than a Finnish-Portuguese one. If you need and / or prefer to have documents translated in Finland into / from Portuguese, but do not know translators, please contact the KEPA Helsinki office for contact information.

1.1.4. Preparing the program As referred to in the contacts chapter, it is mainly you and your partner who are responsible for the visit program, but KEPA project adviser often coordinate this activity and put the program together. If you are planning your first-ever visit before actually having started any cooperation with anyone, we might be able to assist you to establish the contacts -if informed well in advance. As for everything, kindly give us enough time to make the necessary arrangements for you. The higher the level in the hierarchy, the more

difficult to get an appointment with the person. Please be prepared to last minute changes and delays, and please leave enough space for interpretations and moving from one place to the other.

As a general rule, it is possible to visit maximum four organizations per working day. There was a change of the Government working hours (so called horario unico) in such a way that the lunch break is only 30 minutes long and the formal work day ends at 3.30 PM. However, individual timetables are used so please consult beforehand as the systems are different in different organizations.

1.2. Documents 1.2.1. Tickets Several travel agents in Finland sell flights to Mozambique, and your organization might already have a regular one you always use. Agents recommended by KEPA and its member organizations include:

Travelzon, Helsinki, Raija Räty, tel: 09-5840 9300, email raija.raty@travelzon.fi

Matka-Ekspertit, Helsinki, Marja Güngör, tel: 09-6187 3342, fax: 09-6187 3301, email marja.gungor@travelexperts.fi

In addition, to consult this web site might be useful: Ajankohtaiset matkauutiset www.viatravelzon.fi.

1.2.2. Visas Everybody from any country needs a visa for Mozambique. Single entry tourist visas are granted at the airport as well as the land borders. This type of visa costs 25 USD for people coming from a country where there is a Mozambican embassy or consulate, and 20 USD for those coming from where there is none. You get the visa at the airport / land border simply by filling a form at the border control and waiting for a little while for the immigration officials to process it.

If you need a visa for more than 30 days, or / and a multiple entry visa, you should get in touch with the Mozambican Embassy. The closest one is situated in Stockholm, and for some reason it still requires invitation letters even for short-term tourist visas. The instructions of the Embassy are as follows:

Contacts: Embaixada da República de Moçambique, Embassy of the Republic of Mozambique,mail address: P.O.Box 5801, 10248 Stockholm, Sweden, visiting address: Sturegatan 46, 4th floor, 11436 Stockholm, tel/fax: +46-8-6638650 (from 10h to 12h) e-mail: Info@embassymozambique.se Opening times: Monday to Friday 10h00 to 13h00 Website: www.mozambique.mz/governo/minec/msuecia

Instructions for the granting of visa to Mozambique The following documents must be submitted:

1. One (1) form "Request for Entry to Mozambique" correctly filled in and signed by the applicant. The forms must be filled in, in Portuguese or English only, in Capital Letters. The visa forms can be downloaded from the website mentioned above.

2. Two recent photos for applicants visiting Mozambique for the first time or one recent photo of those who have been in Mozambique before. 3. Passport which must be valid at least six months beyond the required stay in Mozambique. 4. For Business People: Invitation letter from Institutions, Business partners to contact or Letter from their Companies confirming the need to go to Mozambique; Criminal register not older than one month, duly stamped at the Foreign Ministry of Finland. 5. Private visitors: A letter from their hosts confirming lodging and financial guarantee. 6. Tourists: Copy of a return ticket and should have an amount correspondent to 50US$ for each entry and 15US$ for each staying day. Visitors are not requested to prove this at the Embassy but they might be requested to do so at the entry border. 7. The Visa Fees are to be paid in advance in Swedish Kronor only (Cash or Bank Cheque). - Normal (5 days) Urgent (2 days) - Single entry 200SEK (max. 30 days) Single entry 300 SEK - Transit 200SEK (max.7 days) Transit (300SEK) - Multiple 360SEK (max. 90 days) Multiple (450SEK) However, there might be some changes in these fees, so please consult with the Embassy. The visa must be used within 60 days from the day of issue.

Please, mention your telephone number on the application for any contact if needed, and send a Self Addressed Envelope + porto (from Sweden - 60SEK and from the other Nordic countries - 80SEK).

As for the invitation letter, your Mozambican counterpart or KEPA Mozambique can fax one to you or directly to the Embassy in Stockholm when requested. Please give the dates and the purpose of your visit, your full name and date of birth and your passport number as well as the validity of thepassport, in order to facilitate drafting of the letter.

The issue of what kind of visa you should apply for is basically as follows: - always apply for a "business people" or a tourist visa, single or multiple entry depending on whether you wish to visit other countries in the region and get back to Mozambique or not; in the invitation letter the purpose of the visit should be explained as "experience exchange between cooperating organizations" or the like; - if you have a work contract in Mozambique, you will need to start the process of getting a work and residence permit; being a lengthy and complicated process, it is better to consult these cases individually instead of explaining it all here.

Most Finnish visitors get their visas at the border / airport or in Stockholm, but there are other options as well, if you happen to be travelling around the region. The closest consulates are in Nelspruit, South Africa (100 km from the Mozambican border) and Mbabane, Swaziland. There is a bus connection from Johannesburg to Nelspruit and onwards to Maputo and from Mbabane to Maputo. In both consulates you simply fill in a visa request form, leave your passport and around 85 Rands in the morning, and go back in the afternoon with your receipt to pick up your passport. No invitation letters are required and normally there are no problems or special questions regarding your visit. The only issue to be noted is that for some reason the consulate in Mbabane requires at least three empty pages in your passport to grant a visa.

1.2.3. Customs and border control When you arrive as a visitor there are normally no special procedures at the customs. Just fill in the arrival form, have your passport stamped and open your luggage if requested.

However, if you bring valuable equipment to the country, you might be subject to customs fees, which are on the high side. In the rare cases where visitors wish to send materials or equipment before their visit to their project partners, please count with a customs fee of up to 25% of the value of the goods (if you do not have receipts, the fee will be estimated, probably on the high side) and a lengthy paper work. Should you wish to send something, be prepared for a process of 2-3 months, the costs of official translations of all documentation etc. Some FNGOs have experience of this and may be consulted e.g. through the KEPA Helsinki office.

1.2.4. Others In Mozambique everyone has to carry an identity card or a passport at all times. As it is not recommended to run around with your passport, you might consider bringing another valid ID, and getting certified copies of your passport and visa as soon as you get to Mozambique. The notary certifies the copies, and at least together with another original document they are sufficient. Also a copy of passport with a stamp of the Finnish Embassy in Maputo is approved. Though lately the police officers require the original ones. If you wish to drive, bring your national and international driver's licenses with you. For renting a car you will need a credit card and a deposit fee. About credit cards and other money matters, please see chapter 1.3.5.

A yellow fever vaccination is required when entering the country, specially if you come directly from a country where it is endemic. If you dont have the vaccination certificate, you will have to take the vaccination at the airport. The same goes for the Johannesburg airport, even if only in transit.

1.3. Budgeting the visit 1.3.1. Travel costs For the travel costs from Finland to Mozambique and back please consult your travel agent; however, be prepared to pay at least 1000 euro for the flights. In-country travel in Mozambique 350 euro, return to Nampula around 500 euro and to Pemba 600 and some. There are some special rates to some destinations within the country, but not all, and the discount tickets require bookings at least four days in advance plus a bit of good luck. There was another airline company operating in the country but it does not work anymore due to financial problems. However, the LAM is constantly renewing its air craft and is in the same time decreasing the ticket prices.

The airport taxes are abolished and included already in your ticket, even in the email tickets.

Even domestic flight returns have to be reconfirmed 72 hours before the flight; no extra fees are charged for these ones. Instead, as you reconfirm your international flight at a travel agent, you pay 11 USD service charges. If you reconfirm directly at the airline, no charges are applied. Please do not forget to make sure your confirmation is taken care of - if needed, KEPA staff can do it for you.

In-country travel by land is far cheaper than by air, but of course requires much more time and patience. The distances are huge (e.g. Maputo-Pemba 2578 km, Maputo-Nampula 2149 km, Pemba-Nampula 438 km) and the road conditions vary from one province or district to the other. When planning your province visits, please find out the various options (bus, train, car), the road conditions depending on the season, the required time to cover a certain distance, fuel supplies on the way etc. Traveling on the countryside by road is an excellent way to get to know a bit about the life in the country, and it's not even hopelessly

expensive -- why not try to arrange time for this during your next visit?

1.3.2. Costs of living The cost of living in Mozambique is relatively, if not incredibly, high, particularly in and around the capital. Pension/hotel accommodation costs anything between 40 and 200 USD/Euro per day per person (although there are a couple of backpackers-style places with lower prices), lunch/dinner around 10-20 USD/Euro and upwards just for the basics, taxi in the city area 5-10 USD/Euro etc. As you get to know the places, the people and the language, you are likely to find somewhat cheaper options, but for most short-term visitors particularly Maputo takes quite a bunch of cash. If you happen to need a clinic, please bear in mind that the costs are high (a basic consultation can be as high as from 100 USD upwards at the foreign-run clinics, 25-30 USD at Mozambican-owned private clinics), and normally credit cards or direct invoicing of your insurance company are not always accepted.

1.3.3. KEPA service charges For the member organizations of KEPA, some basic services are included in the annual membership fee of your organization. However, we have to charge you for telephone and fax costs, fuel and mileage on trips outside the inner city area, and of course costs of the services we do not provide ourselves but contract someone from outside for, such as translation and interpretation services, sightseeing tours etc. Kindly bear this in mind when calculating your visit budget. More information on the services and the charges can be provided by KEPA staff.

1.3.4. Ad hoc As you probably know as a more or less experienced traveler, it is always good to have some extra money in your pocket for unpredictable expenses. The clinic fees were already mentioned above. It can also happen that for one reason or another you might have to change the date of your return. Apart from those, you will most probably take your project partners out for lunch, dinner or a drink. In Mozambique it is not customary for everybody eating out together to contribute to the bill; usually the one who invites takes care of the costs of the entire group. As the wealthy partner you might be expected to take on this responsibility. Also you might like to contract someone to take you sightseeing etc in your (in most cases little) spare time, or arrange a trip to the countryside or e.g. South Africa or Swaziland over the weekend. Not to mention the temptations of the crafts market and art exhibitions, bookshops and cd stores.

1.3.5. Forms of payment The local currency is the Metical, the current exchange rate of which is 1 USD against around 24 New Meticais /three zeroes were taken out from the previous notes in 2007), 1 EUR around 35 MZN. The currency rate specially between new metical and USD has been quite stable for many years.

Forget the Traveler's cheques completely. It is a good idea to bring your credit card instead, if you have one, as it is far more practical and useful theses days. The number of places where you can make payments with credit cards is growing all the time, with the exception of the countryside. There are many ATM's in Maputo and even in the province capitals where you can withdraw cash meticais with your visa or visa electron card (given you remember the code), and they are working better and better. However, be aware of eventual burglers and robbers, dont let anyone to ¨help¨ you and keep on eye on the persons behind you.

It is advisable to keep a little spare cash somewhere safe. The maximum ATM withdrawal is five thousand meticais, which you can do twice, and the service charges are the normal international withdrawal ones (2-3 Euros plus 1-2 %). ATM's do not give you a balance statement, so if you think you might need to check your balance when in Mozambique, consider getting an internet bank service at your Finnish bank, if you do not have one. Some banks also accept withdrawals at the counter with a visa (but not visa electron) card when presented with your passport, but the service charges vary greatly. Some are as high as 35 USD, and there is a (low) maximum limit per transaction. But in a few places there are no charges whatsoever, given you withdraw your money in meticais. Banks are open to public Monday-Friday from 08.00h to 15.00h all day long. Please ask KEPA staff, if you need more details.

If you do not have plastic money or prefer to leave it at home, bring cash dollars or euros (carefully hidden of course). USD and South African Rand are the most common currencies exchanged in Mozambique, and nowadays you can exchange your Euros in all places as well, at least in Maputo. There are plenty of exchange bureaus in Maputo and some in the provinces, doing their business more efficiently and at better rates than the banks; normally the most common currency rates are written on a board. The bureaus are a perfectly legal parallel market. However, it is advisable to ask for a receipt at the exchange bureaus.

There is no need to change money in the street, and there is not even a lively market around, apart from the land borders. Do NOT get into the business; even at the borders you can find a bureau or an ATM. In the provinces where you cannot find an exchange bureau, there are at least some shopkeepers or café/restaurant/guest house owners who exchange money. The rates of foreign currency used to be significantly lower in the provinces than in the capital, but he situation is slowly changing to become more balanced everywhere. If on tight budget and worried about the rates, consider getting a good money belt before your trip (comes in handy anyway for keeping essentials safe).

More details on money matters also in the relevant city and province chapters.

1.4. Information about the country 1.4.1. Internet links First of all, go to www.kepa.fi and www.mozambique.mz and search all the links there. For more travel-oriented reading, check for example www.lonelyplanet.com/destinations.

Other interesting and useful links include: Suomi - Moçambique - seura http://www.kaapeli.fi/mosambik/ Ministry of Foreign Affairs http://www.formin.fiMCL - Monikulttuurinen kirjasto http://www.lib.hel.fi/mcl/maat/mozambiq.htm CIA World Factbook http://www.cia.gov/cia/publications/factbook/geos/mz.html Moçambique on-line http://www.mol.co.mz/ SARDC Mozambique http://www.mozambique.mz/sardcmoz/ Eduardo Mondlane University Informatics Centre http://www.mozambique.mz/ Africa South of Sahara http://www_sul.stanford.edu/depts/ssrg/africa/moz.html

1.4.2. KEPA library The KEPA Helsinki library has a collection of materials on development issues and a variety of countries, including Mozambique. Please consult the librarians for your preferred selection, visit the library or get a distance loan to the library around your corner. Materials recommended by the KEPA library include the following:

This is Mozambique / Michler, Ian, London : New Holland Publishers Ltd, 1999 Mozambique: Rising from the ashes / Waterhouse, Rachel, London : Oxfam, 1996 Mozambique: the Troubled Transition: from socialist construction to free market capitalism / Abrahamsson, Hans; Anders Nilsson, London: Zed Books, 1995 Mozambique: The tortuous road to democracy / Cabrita, João M. Hampshire, New York: PALGRAVE, 2000 Hanlon, Joseph: Mozambique: the revolution under the fire London: Zed Books, 1984 Hanlon, Joseph: Mozambique: Who Calls the Shots? London, 1991 Renamo: from terrorism to democracy in Mozambique? / Vines, Alex York: Centre for Southern African Studies/Eduardo Mondlane Foundation/James Currey Ltd., 1996 Hanlon, Joseph: Peace without profit: how the IMF blocks rebuilding in Mozambique / Hanlon, Joseph Dublin/Oxford: James Currey/The Irish Mozambique Solidarity, 1996. Mosambikin taistelu / Mondlane, Eduardo, 2. painos, Helsinki: Like; Suomen Rauhanpuolustajat Mondlane, Eduardo: The struggle for Mozambique, Harmondsworth: Penguin Books, 1969 A History of Mozambique / Newitt, Marilyn, London: C. Hurst & Co. (Publishers) Ltd. Mozambique and the great flood of 2000 / Christie, Frances; Hanlon, Joseph, London: James Currey, EAEP, Indiana University Press, Sustainable development in Mozambique / Ferraz, Bernando; Munslow, Barry (eds.), Oxford: James Currey; Trenton N.J.: Africa World Press Vuohia ja utopioita : Mosambikilainen omalla maallaan / Heino, Erja-Outi, Helsinki : Like Short stories from Mozambique / Bartlett, Richard (ed.), Johannesburg: COSAW Publishing, 1995 Republic of Mozambique: Interim poverty reduction strategy paper / International Monetary Fund IMF; Republic of Mozambique, 2000 also on the internet: http://www.imf.org/external/NP/prsp/2000/moz/01/INDEX.HTM Aid to Mozambique: An end to dependence? / van Diesen, Arthur, London : Christian Aid, 1999 also on the internet: http://www.christian_aid.org.uk/indepth/9907moza/mozambi1.htm Southern Africa in transition : A gendered perspective / McFadden, Patricia (et al.) (eds.), Harare: SAPES Books, (Southern Africa Political Economy Series) Hanlon, Joseph: Beggar your neighbours : apartheid power in Southern Africa, London, Bloomington : CIIR, 1986 Recently Joseph Hanlon has published a book titled There are bicycles but is there development.

1.4.3. Other recommended reading Articles in Kumppani and other KEPA publications, as well as the newsletters of the member organizations are a good start. For those with time and interest in traveling in Mozambique and the region, the travel section of any decent bookshop should have something to offer -but please note that things change rapidly, and even if you have the latest edition in your hand luggage, it might not be accurate anymore by the time you land in Maputo, particularly as far as the prices are concerned.

1.5. Other aspects to be considered already before take-off 1.5.1 How to deal with people in general There are several aspects to be paid attention to as it comes to dealing with people in Mozambique. On the first glance the atmosphere seems to be nicely relaxed and informal, but on the other hand certain manners are rather formal, starting from the various ways of talking to people (although this is revealed more for those who are familiar with the

Portuguese language), dressing codes in different situations and all the formalities one needs to go through when dealing with whatever issue.

The basic rule is, as anywhere in the world, that if you are friendly, things can be dealt with. In situations where things do not go the way you expect, please keep in mind that you are a visitor and will not change anything by losing your temper -the only thing you do is make the issue even more complicated for yourself. Respect and patience are key words.

The way you dress and act determine very much the degree of respect you show to the other person, and the respect you receive. It is not necessary to run around in a three piece suit all the time, but neither it is correct to show up at an official meeting in beach gear. Unfortunately, no definite rules can be given on this aspect, but you'd better bear this in mind when packing your suitcase. Observing the people in your environment is the best guidance you can have in this respect.

When you meet someone, it is customary not to get directly to the issue (as is often done in Finland) without asking how the other person is doing and, if you know the person and his/her family, it is polite to enquire the well-being of the family members as well. If you do not know the people personally, a few polite remarks about work will do.

If you do not have the possibility to learn to speak Portuguese to the extent that you would not need interpretation, it would still help a lot to learn at least the basic greetings. Furthermore, please pay attention to the hard-working interpreter and give her/him enough time to do the job, pause often and try to be logical to facilitate the conversations.

1.5.2. How to deal with local authorities, for example the police The same basic rules as above apply here as well: patience and politeness are the prerequisites of getting along. ALWAYS have all the necessary documentation, such as travel documents, driving licenses etc. in order. Do what you are requested to do, unless it means a security risk for you or someone else. Sometimes you might be asked to pay bribes to the police, but it is advisable to try to avoid this - you are well off, if you can speak Portuguese and joke your way out of the situation.

There are various types of police officials, with different duties and different uniforms. The ones in blue and white uniforms are the traffic police who have the right to administer fines for example, the ones in gray uniforms can only ask to see your documents and take you to a police station if they think there is a problem. The ones with reddish hats and khaki uniforms are the President's security men, and the ones in Maputo with brownish uniforms are the Municipal Police Force. Everybody else running around in uniform are either soldiers (hardly ever seen in the streets) or staff of private security companies that are many, particularly in the capital.

If you have a problem that needs police involvement, it is advisable to go to the Police station number four (Esquadra 4) on Avenida Kim Il Sung, also known as the diplomatic police where most foreigners go (despite this fact you can not expect to find a police officer who speaks English or anything else apart from Portuguese).

1.5.3. A few recommendations and warnings On health matters, please consult your doctor well in advance in order to check your vaccinations and decide about the malaria prophylactics. As the pharmacies in Mozambique do not always stock a full range of medication, bring your regular medication

with you. Include a health insurance in your travel preparations, just to be on the safe side with the high cost of private clinics. Bring insect repellents with you. Always check the quality of drinking water or stick to bottled mineral water or other bottled drinks, if you are not sure. Protect yourself against HIV/AIDS and other STD's; the local condom brand Jeito is sold at a low price at practically every supermarket, kiosk and gas station in the country.

It is good to know already before your departure that taking photographs and video filming is strictly prohibited in and around strategic places, such as airports, government buildings, prisons, the residences of the President of the Republic (you are not even allowed to walk on the same side of the street where the President lives) and a few other high government officials, the U.S. Embassy and its residences and a few other places. Please adhere to these rules to avoid investigations and the loss of your film or the entire camera.

Before you arrive, make sure you have the details of the place where you are going to stay and you know how to get there. Many visitors who stay at the major hotels can pick up the hotel transport included in your room charge at the airport; in this case there is a driver with the hotel sign and mostly a minibus to receive you. Many people ask KEPA staff for a lift; in this case please indicate your exact timetable well in advance and ask for confirmation. Even if done so and received an ok message, take the name and address of your pension/hotel with you, because it can happen that your pick-up car breaks down on the way, gets stuck in the traffic or something. In these cases you can pick up a taxi, given you have small denominations of dollars with you, or go to the exchange counter at the airport to get some meticais.

The taxis of Maputo are generally safe; just agree the price beforehand, since there are no meters. A trip from the airport to the city costs currently around 300 - 400 new meticais (12-16 USD). Prices change rapidly as the fuel costs go up. Normally the taxi drivers have receipts with them, but it is good to check this as well before stepping into the car. There are usually some cabs at the airport even late at night when ever there is a scheduled flight.

2. Welcome to Maputo City and Province 2.1. Accommodation Of course you can contact the hotel or guest house directly, if you like, but if you find it easier, we at KEPA can help you with your room reservation as well as reserving the services you need (e.g. airport shuttle), given you send us your preferences and your flight schedule in advance. Some of the recommended places to stay in the city include the following:

(Note that even when phoning from Maputo, you have to dial 21 as Maputo town code, from abroad +258 21 and the number)

Mozaika Guest House, Avenida Agostinho Neto 169, Maputo, tel: 303939, 303965, fax: 303956, e-mail: mozaika_guesthouse@hotmail.com A small and colorful retreat with a homely atmosphere. Various standards of rooms plus one apartment with kitchen, all air-conditioned and with cable-tv and telephone. Services include internet, swimming pool, airport pick-up. Prices vary from 80 USD for a single to 140 USD for an apartment. The friendly staff grants a special discount on the room prices for NGO people. Slightly difficult but possible access for disabled.

Hotel África, Avenida Paulo Samuel Kankhomba 789, Maputo, tel: 312437/9, fax: 312441 A small and friendly family business close to Avenida Mao Tse Tung, clean and

comfortable. Prices from 40 USD upwards. Not accessible for disabled.

Pensão Fátima, Avenida Mao Tse Tung 1317, Maputo, tel: 302994 A basic backpackers style place with common bathrooms, a kitchen and a comfy relaxing garden. Nice atmosphere for those not after luxuries. Prices around 600 new meticais for a single/double room, less for a bed in the dormitory or a tent in the garden. Difficult access for disabled due to narrow doors.

Residencial Hoyo-Hoyo, Avenida Francisco O Magumbwe 837, Maputo, tel: 490701 / 494273 / 494297, fax: 490724 Centrally located, convenient spot within walking distance of Julius Nyerere etc. Prices from 40 USD upwards. Not accessible for disabled.

Jacaranda - residencial. Relatively new, calmly situated close to the Polana Shopping center, Avenida Armando Tivane 65, Maputo, tel: 486371, cel phone 82 323 5180; email jacaranda@tvcabo.co.mz

Hotel Terminus, Avenida Francisco O Magumbwe 587, Maputo, tel: 491305/6 / 491333 / 491316, fax: 491284, e-mail: termhot@terminus-hotel.com Upmarket hotel with airport pick-up, restaurant, internet services and a good location. Prices 80 USD single, 90 and upwards for double. Accessible for disabled with some assistance, if room reservation in the ground floor.

Hotel Avenida, Avenida Julius Nyerere 627, Maputo, tel: 492000, fax: 499600, e-mail: h.avenida@teledata.mz, home page: www.hotelavenida.co.mz Services are as at Terminus, but the atmosphere is perhaps even a bit fancier. Difficult access for disabled.

2.2. Money exchange & credit cards Please see chapter 1.3.5. "Forms of payment" for general observations on this matter.

There are plenty of exchange bureaus in Maputo city, and the number seems to be constantly growing. There are quite a few on Avenida Mao Tse Tung and Avenida 24 de Julho, including the Polana Shopping one (the on ly one open on week-ends). In some supermarkets (e.g. Luz) and restaurants (e.g. Mundo's, at the corner of Nyerere and Mondlane) it is possible to pay the bill in dollars or rands and get the change in meticais. Some cafés, such as Nautilus (corner of Nyerere and 24) and restaurants such as Mundo's change rands and dollars over the counter, and many kiosks and tobacconists (e.g. Kanimambo on Julius Nyerere) also exchange money. There are nowadays plenty of ATMs as well but in case of technical problems or long queus, it is advisable to keep a small amount of extra cash somewhere safe.

2.3. Transport There are several taxi stations in town nowadays. There is one by the OMM roundabout, another one between the said roundabout and Supermercado Luz, in front of the Mobil petrol station, and others i.e. by Hotel Polana (Av. Julius Nyerere), Piri-Piri (Av. 24 de Julho), Pensão Martins (Av. 24 de Julho), Hotel Tivoli (Av. 25 de Setembro and Hotel Santa Cruz (Av. 24 de Julho).

Some of the taxi services are as follows:

- Praça de Taxi Hotel Avenida, Av. Eduardo C. Paulo-Matola 1169, tel: 781098

- Praça de Taxi Hotel Polana, Av. Julius Nyerere, tel: 493255 - Praça de Taxi Hotel Cardoso, Av. Mártires de Mueda (Museu), tel: 494334 - Praça de Taxi Hotel Moçambicano, Av. Filipe S. Magaia 999, tel: 303360 - Praça de Taxi Hotel Santa Cruz, Av. 24 de Julho, tel: 302977 - Praça de Taxi da Ortopedia do HCM, Av. Eduardo Mondlane 797, tel: 428493 - Praça de Taxi da Maternidade do HCM, Av. Agostinho Neto, tel: 494562 - Praça de Taxi da Mao Tse Tung, Av. Mao Tse Tung, tel: 416497 - Praça de Taxi Hotel Rovuma, Rua da Rádio, tel: 304449 - Sr. António, mobiles: 082-309788, 082-841454

Public transport is not very well organized; buses and minibuses ('chapas´) operate in and around the city, but it requires knowing the routes pretty well to be able to use these. If you decide to use public transport, be careful when getting in and out, as the reckless drivers will not wait for you to get both of your legs in/outside before dashing off, and beware of pickpockets! The drivers are also speeding a lot so this is not the safest way of traveling.

In Maputo Province the only option apart from the public buses and chapas is getting a lift or driving a rented car. Please inquire your project partners or KEPA staff about the possibilities.

2.4. Eating out The main restaurant area of Maputo is along Julius Nyerere Avenue, where you'll find e.g. the new Restaurante Vintage (Indian cuisine), Mundo's (pizza, Mexican, South-African), El Greco (pizza and fish), Pirata (pizza, sea food), Manjar dos Deuses (upmarket Portuguese), Mi Casa (upmarket Portuguese), Rodízio Real (Brazilian all-you-can-eat buffet), and many others. Feira Popular is an amusement area downtown with a large variety of restaurants (Escorpião has nice fish and Coqueiro serves local dishes, whereas the French Cuisine can be enjoyed at Pinga / Pierre & Pierre -this one is also known for its excellent and friendly service. Other options include Portuguese, Chinese etc. cuisine). In the new office area on the opposite side of 25th of September Avenue, you can find Japanese cuisine, Kentucky Fried Chicken and others. There are always changes as some restaurants close and some open again under a different name, as is the case with Pequim on Av Nyerere, now called Dolce Vita.

One more popular area for lunch, dinner or snacks is the beach side: Marisqueira Sagres is known for its excellent Portuguese style seafood. Right next to it are the pretty new snack bar – cafés Mira Mar and Salsa Latina, and almost opposite the latter the new snack-bar / beer garden Ximixwene. Further on the beach, a few km out of town are the Gaivota Restaurant inside the Clube Marítimo with reasonable seafood (the 20 new meticais -around a dollar -entrance fee will be reimbursed if the tickets are presented when asking for the bill for a whole meal, not for snacks only) and the legendary and crowded Restaurant Costa do Sol, and even a bit further Vila dos Pescadores. Opposite Clube Marítimo there is the fish market where you can purchase your sea food at the market stalls and have it prepared in the little barracks while enjoying a drink in the shade of the trees - nice atmosphere and well prepared reasonably priced food. Restaurant Zambi in the down town bythe sea, close to Catembe ferry, has been opened again, with excellent sea food. In the same area thereis a Waterfront restaurant, with a swimming pool, and live music some evenings during a week.

A few others to add to the selection of the city are The Cottage on Eduardo Mondlane with its Italian and Ethiopian cuisine, Mimmo´s on 24 de Julho with economic pizza-pasta dishes and a few other things, 1908 on Eduardo Mondlane, a beautiful old building with

excellent food and a great atmosphere, Ponto Final on Eduardo Mondlane with a variety of chicken dishes and Piri-Piri at the corner of 24 de Julho and Nyerere, one of the oldest places in town and famous for its chili chicken. Tchova in the Museu zone has Thai food in a garden setting. New restaurants and cafés open up all the time. Basic local food is available at the beach kiosks during weekends, as well as at some market places and cafés in town.

Maputo street cafés are nice spots to sit back and observe the life of the city. Try Nautilus (24 de Julho, Estoril (Mao Tse Tung), Wimbi (Eduardo Mondlane) or Continental (25 de Setembro). All these serve nice espresso coffee, soft drinks, beers and mostly also light snacks, pastries, cakes and ice cream.

In Maputo province probably the nicest options are the type of places where you purchase your meat or chicken (rarely fish) per kilo in a shop, sit back at the backyard with a cool drink waiting until the staff has grilled your meat and prepared your side orders, and enjoy your meal in a no-fussatmosphere. Some of these places look like garden restaurants (quinta), whereas others look outside more like butchery shops. In Matola town there is also a reasonable Portuguese style restaurant called "A Barraca", and there are a couple of places of the same standard e.g. in Marracuene, Manhiça and Namaacha.

As far as the safety of the food is concerned, generally we would consider it much better than in many other countries; however, it sometimes happens that people have stomach problems either because of the food or something else. As a general rule it can be said that the more lively the place seems to be, the less common it is to end up with trouble due to the fast turn-over of the ingredients. If the place looks deserted or there is nobody eating, it might be a good idea to go somewhere else. It is advisable to avoid ice cubes in your drink, since they are not always prepared out of boiled / filtered water.

2.5. Sightseeing & entertainment The main tourist attractions in Maputo are the National Art Museum (Museu Nacional de Arte), the Iron House and the Railway station (Casa de Ferro e Estação de Comboios) both designed by a certain Mr. Eiffel, the Cathedral, the Fort (a Fortaleza de Maputo), the Curio Market (o mercado de artesanato, on Saturday mornings in the Baixa ' downtown, a large variety of handicraft products are available there), Artedif, shop of handicraft products on Marginal. Other places of interest are the Núcleo de Arte (an art gallery where artists work and exhibit/sell their work), Mozarte (a handicraft project of youth with workshops, a café and a shop), the Natural History Museum, the Mozambican Photographic Association at Nyerere, the Camões Institute (Instituto Camões), the Center of Brazilian Studies (CEB) and the French-Mozambican Cultural Center (exhibitions, library, newspapers, concerts, dance shows, café etc.) For nostalgists, the Museum of the Revolution is The place to go.

In the province of Maputo the Chissano Museum and Gallery (Museu Galeria Chissano), situated in Bairro de Fomento, Matola Norte, is an absolute must for those with even a slight interest in Mozambican art. Apart from a vast collection of sculptures of the late Master Chissano himself, the museum contains works of his students, other sculptors, and a few painters, including Malangatana. More recent works of local artists can be bought in the gallery part.

For concerts and dance shows check the newspapers or ask KEPA staff to do it for you; normally there is something going on at least weekly in the French-Mozambican Cultural Center and CineÁfrica, Gil Vicente, Rua dÁrte, occasionally at the Culture House (Casa da

Cultura de Alto-Maé) and a few other places. Also, The Association of Musicians sometimes has live music on the backyard of its premises (just off Vladimir Lenin, close to the Eduardo Mondlane corner), and occasionally there are concerts in the fair area FACIM as well as at the stadiums. In the suburbs of Maputo there are sometimes excellent music sessions in a very local atmosphere -but you need your own transport and a bunch of friends to get there and back, and first of all to find the places. For theater and art exhibitions, it is advisable to check out the newspaper or ask the people you know. The best way to be informed is just listen to your friends. Things change rapidly in Maputo these days; therefore it is advisable to ask about new places and safe ways to get there and back!

As restaurants, also new bars open up and old ones close down all the time in town. For example África Bar next to Cine África (24 de Julho) has live music from Wednesday to Sunday. The little bar called Modaskavalu upstairs of Teatro Avenida (25 de Setembro) often has live music on Friday and Saturday nights. But you should be careful, go only with friends at night and do not carry valuables with you.

For sports and recreation try the hotel gyms, Samy’s Gym at Kim Il Sung, Physical at the Maritimo, the tennis court of Tunduru (Rua de Rádio, tel: 427027), or the swimming pools at Coconuts (Av. Marginal, tel: 490261,490382), Oasis Park (Av. Vladimir Lenine, 3071, tel: 418483), Clube Naval (Av. Marginal, tel: 492690), Waterfront (Praça Robert Mugabe) or Kaya Kwanga (321 D. João de Castro, tel: 492706). The upmarket hotels also have swimming pools, with a special fee being charged from nonresidents; Hotel Cardoso has a popular Sunday poolside buffet lunch for around 10 USD.

If you prefer an outing on the countryside or the beach outside the Maputo hassle, the easiest option is to catch the ferry at Maputo port to Catembe on the other side of the bay; the ferry takes about 20 minutes, and you have fantastic views of the Maputo skyline, a chance to have nice walk in a village atmosphere and a reasonable lunch at one of the restaurants near the jetty. There are also faster small boats going over all the time. Other options include Macaneta Beach about 50 km north, where you can find white-washed sandy beaches and a few Beach Lodges to stay/eat (you will need a 4x4 though, and cross the Inkomati river on a ferry to get to the beach), and Namaacha, a town on the Swaziland border, with a perfect picnic spot by the waterfalls. Inhaca Island about 40 km east of Maputo is an important marine research center and a popular weekend getaway -ask your hotel staff or a travel agent for flights or flight & accommodation packages, or you can get there and back by boat during the same day, reservations at hotel or directly Vodacom 84 2201 610. The boat goes from the Porto de Pesca downtown, close to the craft market, Praca de 25 de Junho.

The KEPA staff has a few friends who are sometimes willing to help guide visitors on sightseeing, cultural explorations and night life/bar hopping tours on request. Please note that none of these volunteering guides has an expense account. Normal courtesy and politeness sometimes include that you invite your (Mozambican) guide for dinner or a drink at least. Or, if you agree about a tour, you might as well agree about a guidance fee straight away.

2.6. Shopping Shops are open generally Monday to Friday 08.00 to 13.00 and 15.00 to 18.00, Saturday 08.00 to 13.30. Some supermarkets are open later than this, such as Luz (Av. Vladimir Lenin), o Vosso Supermercado (Zona Militar, between Av. Mao Tse Tung and Av. Kenneth Kaunda) and L&M (24 de Julho) until 19.00 and Mahomed Lda (Rua de Kassuende, near

Julius Nyerere) until 19.00. The vegetable market (Mercado Janet) at the corner of Lenin and Mao Tse Tung, as well as the Central Market (Mercado Central) along 25 de Setembro have a variety of fruit, vegetables and other goods. More markets, supermarkets, street stalls selling fruit etc. can be found all over the city, for instance on Avenida 24 de Julho there are a few places. The Franca Centro Comercial (24 de Julho) and the new Polana Shopping (corner of 24 and Nyerere) offer a selection of shops. The latest and fanciest supermarket, the Maputo Shopping center, is situated in downtown, in the end of Av Vladimir Lenin, with a huge number of different and expensive shops but also including cheaper ones as Mr Price.

For souvenirs many visitors like to go to the crafts market open on Saturdays downtown close to Café Continental and the Maputo Fort -although the somewhat pushy vendors might easily get on your nerves, also beware of pickpockets. An easier atmosphere to do your souvenir shopping is Artedif, a cooperative of disabled people on the Marginal street by the beach side, offering a variety of crafts at reasonable fixed prices, or the Mozarte handicraft project close to the National Museum of Art. A women's cooperative runs Tritique Batiks shop in a small side street off Julius Nyerere, close to Hotel Avenida. In the streets, particularly in front of Hotel Polana, Hotel Cardoso and Piri Piri, people also sell local handicrafts; learn to bargain if not used to it yet.

For art, check out the Núcleo de Arte exhibition or any other exhibition open at the time of your visit. Museu Chissano in Matola also has a gallery part with contemporary art, mainly sculptures. For both art and handicrafts Shanty Craft in Bairro Triunfo on the beach close to Costa do Sol is well worth a visit.

Maputo bookshops are rather well equipped: check out the Editora Escolar on 24 de Julho, Paulinas on Eduardo Mondlane, Mabuko next to Dolce Vita, the bookshop of Polana Shopping, or the University bookshop on the campus of Eduardo Mondlane University and on Av. Karl Marx. For music lovers, Sensações (next to Mundo’s) has a limited collection of cd's and cassettes, as well as Conga on Eduardo Mondlane; Globe Music also on Eduardo Mondlane offers a wider variety of popular music, especially Mozambican and other African, and the Commercial Center Franca (former Interfranca) on 24 de Julho and Polana Shopping also have little cd stores.

If you are ready to part with a rather handsome bunch of cash to get a new look, there are several places around to make batik dresses, shirts, trousers etc. Many women also like to have their hair done in the African style - please ask your project partners or KEPA staff, if interested.

Pharmacies are situated e.g. in the following addresses:

Farmácia Apotheka, Polana Shopping Center, Farmácia Avenida, 24 de Julho 2617, Farmácia Central, Av. Karl Marx 426, Farmácia Moderna, Av. Eduardo Mondlane 1425, Farmácia Calendula, Av. Mao Tse Tung 222, Farmácia Gardenia, Rua Teixeira Botelho 400.

There are 2 pharmacies open 24 hours, Farmácia Socorro behind the Central Hospital on Av. Agostinho Neto, and Farmácia Carreira on Av. Mao Tse Tung. For the rest, the local newspaper informs the public daily of which one will be open that evening. If there is an urgent need for medication, the doctor attending you will be able to help. At the clinics you can normally get at least the first medication enough until the following day.

2.7. Security The security situation in the City of Maputo changes rapidly, so it is advisable to ask people about it as soon as you get here. The crime rate in general seems to be going up, but the type of "popular" kinds of crime varies quickly -this week it might be mere pick-pocketing, next week car robberies, next month armed assaults in houses etc. As a general rule it can be said that in terms of crime November-January is the worst time, as some people do not hesitate using any means to get into the consumption hystery of the Year End holidays. Therefore a few precautions are necessary, but please note that the purpose of this chapter is NOT to get you scared, let alone cancel your visit. We who live here will give you more updated information once you get here, so do not worry too much!

Daytime it is normally quite ok to walk around the main streets of Maputo, excluding the Marginal beach area and the small streets going down towards the beach from Friedrich Engels Avenue, where several robberies have been reported. For your own safety, do not carry large amounts of money or other valuables with you on your walks. A camera hanging on your neck is practically an invitation...as well as too-good-looking jewelry and watches. Parks are not the safest places anywhere in the world, and Maputo is not an exception.

Generally it is also better to avoid places where there are no street lights or other people, and not get accompanied by people you do not know. The downtown area is one of the zones where plenty of property changes owners; it is better to get used to the city a bit before exploring every corner of Baixa. Please also ask us to explain on the spot where the zone everybody calls Colombia is situated; being the drug dealing center of the city it is not exactly safe, not even daytime. Dont walk in Baixa on Sundays as there are very few persons around and it is easy to get robbed, specially in the neighbourhood of the Jardim Tunduru park.

Do not display your money in public, and keep your bulk wallet in a secure place (NOT in the back pocket, preferably for example in a money belt under your clothes). Just keep a small amount of cash somewhere handy.

If you stay in Mozambique for a longer time, it is advisable to ask KEPA staff to get you a copy of your passport and visa, verified by the local notary public (the only officially recognized copy). This comes in handy if you prefer not to move around with the original, and if you lose your passport despite all the precautions. Please keep your ID or passport, your tickets and all other important documents in a secure place! If you wish, you can keep your valuables in the safe of the KEPA office. Thefts from hotel safes have not been reported for years either.

As according to the Mozambican law, everyone is required to carry an ID card at all times. However, it is very seldom that the police ask for the documents daytime. At night, particularly when moving around by taxi, the police often require to see ID's. It is recommended to bring an official (or official looking) ID with you to Mozambique, so as not to be forced to run around with your passport. This alone is, however, not valid but good to have as a support document in addition to the verified copies of your passport and visa. If you are caught without a valid ID or passport, you will be escorted to the police station after which you will have to get someone to come by with your documents to prove you are "legal" in the country.

The Finnish Embassy in Maputo recommends that Finnish citizens register themselves in the Embassy, if staying longer than a few days or a couple of weeks.

In Maputo province it is generally not necessary to keep as alert as in the city, but keep on with the normal precautions anyway. Driving around after sunset is not a good idea, not only here, but anywhere in the country, and not only due to possible crime but also due to the somewhat unpredictable road conditions etc. The more touristy the place the more opportunists around; but then again, many tourist facilities have taken their own security measures. Generally in the country any place outside the capital is more peaceful than The Very City. Be also careful when driving as there are quite a many drunk drivers around, specially in the week-ends.

Kindly check the latest information on security matters with KEPA staff. Generally it is advisable to join together with a few people when going out in the evening.

2.8. Communications 2.8.1. Post & fax services The main post office is situated on the Avenida 25 de Setembro downtown, and a smaller branch operates on Av. Mao Tse Tung, opening hours Monday to Friday 07.45-12.00 and 14.00-17.00 plus Saturday mornings. The Mozambican mail service is neither one of the most efficient nor reliable ones in the world. Please also note the relatively high cost of sending mail: 50-60 new meticais for a post card is pretty much on the high side! The most reliable post office might be the one at the airport.

If you need to send faxes, you can use the KEPA fax machine against a fixed fee per page, defined according to the destination. There is a fax service in the post office, but the cost is far higher than ours.

2.8.2. Telephones To call outside Mozambique, dial 00 + the country code + the city code (minus the first number) + the phone number. The dialing code from outside for Mozambique is 258, the city code for Maputo is 21 from outside the country, and from inside. Making phone calls from hotels is expensive; you can save by buying a phone card (telecartão) from a supermarket or a tobacconist and using the street phone cabins or other public phones.

2.8.3. Cell phonesThe Finnish mobiles work in Mozambique without major problems. Of course the cost of calling and receiving is considerably higher than at home. It is wise to buy a local pre-paid card, Mcel or Vodacom.

Getting a Mozambican line is easy with the Giro-pre-paid system: just get to the nearest Mcel shop, pay around 120 new meticais for a SIM card, insert it in your mobile -and start chatting after half an hour. To recharge more speaking time you can buy a Giro code card with programming instructions at either 100 up to 600 at Mcel, kiosks, supermarkets and gas stations. With Giro you can call and send sms all over. There are people selling giros practically in each street corner these days.

If you stay for a long time and need a cost breakdown of your calls, get a contract with detailed billing: however, to obtain this you normally need a local employer, a bank account, and/or a residence permit. There are contracts for national access only, or both national and international connection -for these you pay a (high) deposit fee, and choose from two price ranges for fixed costs and call charges.

2.8.4. Internet cafés & e-mail services In the accommodation chapter the places with internet access were already mentioned.

Other places to go are Connection Time Internet Café upstairs the Hotel Avenida block (entrance next to Restaurant Mundo's at Nyerere), Teledata along 24 de Julho opposite to Franca shopping centre, and another one in Coop at the corner of Kenneth Kaunda and Rua da França. At the KEPA office there is one computer available for project partners and visitors free of charge.

For those staying longer, opening a local account is easy: there are several service providers in town, consult the details e.g. at KEPA.

2.9. Important addresses & telephone numbers Embassy of Finland Address: Avenida Julius Nyerere 1128, Maputo Tel: +258-21-482400, 492300 Fax: 490661 e-mail: sanomat.map@formin.fi Opening hours: Monday-Thursday 7.30-15.45, Friday 7.30-12.45

KEPA Address: Rua Simões de Silva, 62, Bairro Central, Maputo Tel: +258-21-316 008 /country director Fax: 316 009 e-mail: kepa@kepa.co.mz Opening hours: Monday-Thursday 08.00-16.00, Friday 08.00-15.00

Emergency Police: head commando office tel. 21 325 031, emergency numbers 01119 (land line) and 01112 (cell phone). It is better to check the numbers as they are changing all the time, and others are not functioning any more. Sommershield Clinic tel. 21-493924/5, Clinica Especial Central Hospital tel. 21-324633, 321349, cell 82 3192640; Clínica 222 + ambulance service, Av. 24 de Julho, tel: 222; Clinica Cruz Azul urgent tel.82 304 0030, general 21-305151; Dentist Dente Feliz, close to Mundos, Av. J. Nyerere 657, 1st floor, 21-491426; Dentamed, Av Francisco O Magumbwe,954, tel. 21-493370.

In case of an emergency that you are not able to sort out yourself, call country director Ritva Parviainen, tel. 21-316 008 (office) or 82-311 4260 (mobile).

3. Welcome to Cabo Delgado & Nampula As some KEPA and FNGO visitors go up north as well, and as we would very much like to encourage you to get more involved with the northern provinces, we deemed it useful to have a small chapter on Cabo Delgado province in this document as well. As you already might know, KEPA has a small office in Pemba, with two program officers. You can expect to have the similar kind of services you have in and around Maputo. Even if the headquarters of your partner organization were situated in Maputo, but had some activities in the north, it is a good idea to visit the provinces to see the very different reality outside the capital. Given the huge distance between north and south of the country, both in geographical and cultural terms, the difference is remarkable. Life in the provinces is not as hectic as it is in Maputo, allowing you to concentrate on whatever you are doing. Besides, people are very welcoming, perhaps due to the fairly limited contacts they have with other parts of the world until now -there are interesting local initiatives going on for which good partnerships could provide plenty of assistance. And, as you can see in the

following detailed chapters, traveling and staying in the provinces is not as difficult as you might imagine.

3.1. Accommodation Complexo Nautilus, Wimbi Beach, comfortable and secure small round houses from 60 USD upwards, with private bathroom, fridge, tv, air-con, water kettle, veranda. Accessible for disabled. Has a very nice restaurant, breakfast included in the price.

Pemba Beach Hotel, the fairly new luxury place, rooms starting from 160 USD upwards. Accessible for disabled.

Complexo Caracol, Wimbi Beach, clean, secure and comfortable, 52 USD for single, around 60 for double with private bathroom, with fridge, tv, air-con, water kettle, veranda. Basic room with bathroom with only cold water around 35 USD. Accessible for disabled for the part of the ground floor rooms, with some slight difficulty though. No breakfast included.

Complexo Sal, Wimbi Beach, conditions and prices more or less as at Caracol, but some apartments even have a kitchen. Accessible for disabled for the part of the ground floor rooms, with some slight difficulty though.

Pemba Camp Site, c/o Mr. Russell Bott, C.P. 191, Pemba, e-mail: russbott@hotmail.com An Australian-run site right on the beach, with dormitories for 3-6 USD per bed, bungalows / chalets for 15 USD per chalet, reasonable meals, communal kitchen & bathrooms, a container to store your gear, security ok, solar energy for daytime / generator for night time. Also a popular spot for dinners & drinks. Sandy yard makes the place difficult for wheelchairs.

Outside Pemba in the districts of Cabo Delgado your options are the guest houses (pensão); in any town there are a few. Normally everybody in Montepuez, Moçimboa-da-Praia etc. knows the location, so there's no use to explain everything here. Prices vary from 7 to 15 USD per room, depending if you want your own bathroom or not. Running water is not always available, but the helpful staff will get you buckets of water for taking a bath. Accessible for disabled with some difficulty.

3.2. Money exchange & credit cards Please see chapter 1.3.5. "Forms of payment" for general observations on this matter.

At least for now, banks are almost the only places to change money in the north. As indicated earlier, it is often possible to find shop keepers etc. who exchange money, but at least find out the rates of the day before getting into the business.

In Pemba there are a couple of BIM EXPRESSO ATM's opposite KEPA office which give meticais with VISA or VISA electron card; also cash withdrawal with VISA is possible at the BIM counter. Credit card payments are accepted in very few places generally in the provinces.

Things change rapidly, so please inquire about new facilities before your trip.

3.3. Transport Getting there:

Maputo-Pemba, flights almost every day, some of which go via Beira or Nampula, discount flights on late evenings, normal prices around 500 euros, flight time Maputo-Pemba approx. 3-4 hours (varies a bit depending if there are stop-overs or not).

LAM is operating twice a week from Maputo through Pemba to Dar-es-Salaam and Nairobi. The prices vary but a normal price eg from Maputo to Dar-es-Salaam return is more or less the same as Maputo-Pemba.

Please note that the LAM discount tickets have to be bought at least 4 days in advance, often the discount seats are full, reservations recommended to be made 1-2 weeks before the trip whenever possible.

Getting around: The most common way for KEPA and FNGO visitors to get around is the service vehicle of the program officer. However, there are other options, as anywhere: the public buses and chapas run between the district capitals and there is for example a seven-hour bus service between Pemba and Nampula. In Nampula province you can reach quite a few locations by train that runs between Nacala, Nampula town and Cuamba (the latter in Niassa province). In Cabo Delgado the situation improved significantly as the new road between Pemba and Montepuez opened; a continuation of this one is under construction, and once finished it will finally connect Lichinga, the capital of Niassa province with Cabo Delgado.

At Pemba airport there is a new car rental service called Moti-Rent-a-Car, tel: 072-21687, fax: 07221688, e-mail motimoz@teledata.mz. There are no taxis so far that run from the airport to town on a regular basis, but the main hotels do provide transport for their customers. In Pemba town there is no public transport, probably due to the small size of the place, but recently taxis have appeared in the streets.

The towns and villages of these provinces are fairly small and reasonably safe, so walking around is normally not a problem - apart from the temperature that might be too much for you.

3.4. Eating out Restaurante Nautilus, Restaurante Mar e Sol and Restaurante / Discoteca Wimbi on Wimbi Beach serve (surprise!) nice fish & seafood dishes, among other things. Have a dip in the clear blue ocean while waiting for your lunch. On the other side of the beach road there is the newly opened Super Wimbe with a similar selection than the others.

Café-Pastelaria Flor da Avenida in the main street close to KEPA office has meals, snacks and cakes, and a comfortable setting.

Portuguese Restaurant in the area opposite the Hotel Cabo Delgado has cheap and good typical Portuguese food. Restaurante Viking and Pemba Take Away in the center seem more like snack-bar / drinking joints.

In other parts of the province you find several places in each district capital at least, and on the way numerous roadside snack-bars and kiosks for your basic needs. Often a goat stew is served at lunch time, so that is the quickest option apart from the egg sandwiches available practically anywhere. Grilled chicken with chips or xima ('thick maize porridge) is

very common as well. Fish is generally available on the coastal area, but not so much far from the ocean (and perhaps it is not such a good idea to eat seafood if in doubt of its age). If you are a no-meat eater, your options are pretty limited; but you will not go hungry either, as there is often some traditional non-meat food and plenty of fresh fruit available.

Anywhere in the country, do not forget to stick to bottled drinks and keep stocks of mineral water with you. Soft drinks are sold in any kiosk, shop and market (although often warm where there are no facilities). When traveling around, mineral water is the best thing to have, and preferably in such quantities that you will not be in total trouble if there is a delay for some reason. Take good care of the balance of liquids and salts in your body: add salt to your food and drink enough water. Coffee drinkers are not very well off, since the occasional power cuts might stop the machines of the few cafeterias that serve "real" coffee; heavy coffee drinkers carry jars of instant coffee powder all the way from Maputo as it is hard to come by in the north, and the chickory mixture that is referred to as coffee is merely a bad joke. Beers and other drinks are widely available in bars, restaurants, shops and markets -there are a few no-alcohol places around, though.

3.5. Sightseeing & entertainment In the north, probably the best entertainment is simply observing the sceneries and the life of the people. On the coast it is the beach that offers you various possibilities for relaxation, e.g. snorkeling, diving, swimming in Pemba, or picnic on the beaches. Ask your project partners about music and dance shows, discos or other places to go.

3.6. Shopping In the towns you will find several shops, supermarkets and markets for all your basic needs, but should you need some "special" or luxury items or for example a certain type of medication on your way, you had better take these things with you. For souvenirs and gifts the best options are the Maconde art workshops in and around Pemba, and a youth crafts cooperative on Wimbi Beach opposite restaurant Nautilus (however, bear in mind that the exportation of ebony is prohibited, and that the white-yellowish stuff used for crafts is indeed ivory).

3.7. Security and health Please see the security section above for general observations on this matter, but kindly also note that in the provinces the crime rate is not as high as in the capital area. Particularly violent crime does not happen nearly as often as in Maputo; in the provinces it s more petty theft and the like. Although you can with good reason feel more relaxed outside than inside Maputo, it is still better to keep going with your normal precautions and keep carrying some sort of identification documents with you. Also consult your project partners and / or KEPA staff about the latest developments.

No super-special precautions (as compared to a visit to Maputo) are needed as far as health matters are concerned as you go to the north. However, it is good to know that malaria cases are somewhat more common than in the capital; consider prophylactics and don't forget repellents. If you get sick, the province hospital is the only option in Pemba.

3.8. Communications Public telephones are available in the towns and most of the district capitals. In Pemba you can make phone calls and send faxes at the main post offices as well. On Wimbi Beach there’s also a public phone that works with an impulse counter, this one you find next to Super Wimbe restaurant. KEPA Pemba can help you with the communications; if you use the phone and fax in our office, the normal service fees as in the Maputo office will

be charged. To call outside of Mozambique works the same way as in Maputo, and for calling you when in the north, people should use the province prefixe: (0)72 for Cabo Delgado.

The mobile phone system works in the provinces and in most of the districts, however Mcel might have some disturbances in lines every now and then. It might also be that there are some geographical areas where there is no coverage even if there should be.

There is an Internet facility in connection with a crafts shop in the main street of Pemba, and another one on the beach next to Super Wimbe in connection with the public phone service.

3.9. Important addresses & telephone numbers KEPA Pemba, C.P.262, Pemba, tel/fax: 272-20576, street address; Av. Eduardo Mondlane, Edificio Sant' Egidio, Caixa Postal 262, Pemba.

This document has been put together by Tarja Valtonen, liaison officer of KEPA Mozambique, with the kind and invaluable assistance of colleagues of our offices in Maputo, Pemba and Helsinki. 28 November 2001, one update made on 25 June 2004 by Katja Kari, and the latest update on 28 January 2009 by Ritva Parviainen.