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GKE

ISSUE97/2014

ISSN1312-8590

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If elections really reflect the state of a society, then the Octobersnap ballot in Bulgaria does not offer a very complimentary picture ofwhere this country is at at the moment. The election produced a veryfragmented parliament where eight parties will have to hammer outa consensus on lawmaking issues, a difficult if not impossible task ina country like Bulgaria. This indicates several things. Boyko Borisov'sGERB sidelined the Socialists, or BSP, by a large margin. The BSP,

which had been the largest party in Bulgaria so far and which has itsorigins in the Cold War-era Bulgarian Communist Party, splintered afate that had previously befallen pronouncedly democratic, anti-Communist groupings such as the SDS, in the early 2s. A numberof small parties emerged and made it past the 4 percent threshold.Apart from the Reformist Bloc, an assemblage of centre-right partiesthat favour further Euro-integration, these include the obviouslyincongruous Bulgaria Without Censorship as well as extremistnationalist pro-Russian parties such as Ataka and the National Frontfor the Salvation of Bulgaria.

The most important question to be asked, however, is not whetherBulgaria will have a relatively stable government in the foreseeablefuture, nor whether this parliament will be able to hold on for long. It iswhere Bulgaria's inchoate civil society stands in 24.

The answer, sadly, is not very favourable. The record-low turnoutindicated that it is one thing to spew out politically charged statuses onFacebook, another to use Twitter to organise flash mobs in the streets

of Sofia, and then a completely different thing to actually promptchange through the process of democracy, that is at the ballot boxes.To read more about why the quality of democracy in Bulgaria is on thedecline, turn to p4.


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PUBLISHERVagabond MEDIA

23 Budapest Street 1000 Sofiaphone: (+359 2) 983 3308

fax: (+359 2) 983 [email protected]

www.vagabond.bg

MANAGING EDITOR

Anthony [email protected]

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

Elena [email protected]

ASSISTANT EDITOR

Jane Keating

GRAPHIC DESIGN

Gergana [email protected]

DIRECTOR OF OPERATIONS

GREECE

Jeni [email protected]

MEDIA SALES

Alexandra [email protected]

Kristina [email protected]

Svetlana [email protected]

Tsvetelina [email protected]

Vanya [email protected]

CONTRIBUTORS

Bozhidara Georgieva

Dimana Trankova

Dimitar Ivanov

Iren Levi

Minka VazkresenskaStamen Manolov

PAPER

Cover: g/m2

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PRINTED IN BULGARIA

Janet-45 Print & Publishing,Plovdiv

COPYRIGHT

Vagabond Media. No partof this publication may be re-produced in any form withoutthe express written consent of

the publisher

ISSN 13128590Unless explicitly stated, the views and opinions expressed or implied in , Bulgaria's English

Monthly, are intended for entertainment only. The publisher assumes no responsibility, direct or implied,

for any advertising content. Products and services mentioned are subject to change without prior notice.

You are strongly advised to make proper research and seek professional advice before making any financial

commitment in response to advertising material

Pursuant to Article 7a, Paragraph 3 of the Bulgarian Compulsory Deposition of Printed and Other Works act

it is herewith declared that Anthony Georgieff is the sole proprietor of Vagabond Media Ltd.

Produced on Apple Macintosh

computer equipment only


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"Thisparliament will beworse than its predecessor. It is full of

garrulous people who can spit and spew, butare unfit for any lawmaking. If the Bulgarians

want such a pageant, let them have it."TATYANA DONCHEVA,

leader o Moement 21

"Myphone is ringing the

whole day, everyone is greetingme - Erdogan, the president ofPortugal... No other party hasbeaten the Communists two

times in a row!"BOYKO BORISOV

"Allpartiesare lined up as the

women at the windowsof a certain Amsterdam

district, and offerthemselves."VOLEN SIDEROV,

Ataka leader

"BoykoBorisovis as rightwing as the

English traffi

c."Writer IVAYLO "NOISY" TSVETKOV

"Wewill be neither agolden, nor a silver, nor a middlefi

nger in the new parliament."KRASIMIR KARAKACHANOV, leader o the VMROand the Patriotic Front


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Turkey's ambassador buildingon the past, looking to the future

interview and photography by Anthony Georgieff


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by Stamen Manolov

Email your answers [email protected]

and you can win a copy o

Wall-to-Wall,Poetry of Europe,Vagabond's guide

to the poetry walls o Soia.

This is one of Bulgaria's most popular seaside resorts at a timewhen... very few visitors come. The December, in Orthodoxhagiography the feast day of St Nicholas revered also asthe protector of seamen, is celebrated here with particularenthusiasm as the majority of those locals not involved withsummertime tourism are actually fishermen and live on the sea.The celebrations involve a huge party at the harbour, with freefish soup and plenty of drinks, some blessing of ships by thelocal priest, and in good weather a free cruise around the islandsin the bay.

Where in Bulgaria are you?

A

nthonyGeorgieff


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After a tough competition, the project of sculptors KrumDamyanov and Ivan Slavov, architects Georgi Gechev and BlagoyIvanov, and artists Vladislav Paskalev and Stoyan Velev was selected.Construction began in November 77 and the finished monumentwas unveiled on 28 November 8. Lyudmila Zhivkova did not live

to cherish the moment, as she had died on 2 July the same year.The Founders of Bulgaria monument is just incredible. Angularand made of exposed concrete, it is 4 metres long and 7 metreshigh. For the construction 2,4 tonnes of reinforced steel bars and, cubic metres of concrete were used.

For the monument, the architects chose two tall concrete structureswith zigzag outlines, symbolising the upward spiral of Bulgariannational evolution. The narrow passage between them is inhabitedby huge granite sculptures of early Bulgarian rulers and their retinue,

a striking gallery of grey angular faces on top of over-proportionedbodies.First in the line is, of course, Khan Asparuh. Hailed as the founder

of Bulgaria, he brought the Bulgarians south of the Danube,made alliances with the Slavic tribes who were living there, wona decisive battle against the Byzantines and signed a peace treatywhich legitimised his state as an international political entity. In theShumen monument, however, Khan Asparuh looks more menacingthan stately, with his deep eyes and huge Transformers-like arm

pointing at the sky. The horse behind him, which looks like it existsin at least six dimensions, adds to the sci-fi atmosphere.

Further along the concrete corridor, perched at a height of 8metres, are Asparuh's descendants, the khans Tervel and Krum. Theylook as menacing and grim as their predecessor, and things do notchange much when you finally reach Prince Boris and his son, KingSimeon the Great. It was Prince Boris who compelled the Bulgariansto adopt Christianity, while King Simeon extended the Bulgarianborders far and wide, encouraging culture to such an extent that his

reign was dubbed The Golden Age of Bulgaria. The years of theirrule were also the time when the Slavic alphabet was adopted anddeveloped in Bulgaria.

Top: The monument overlooks

Shumen and its surroundings, the

core of early Medieval Bulgaria

Bottom: A massive lion adorns the

top of the monument. According

to urban legend, it is hollow

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Christianity, military power and the alphabet are the main themesin this part of the monument. When you look up, the concrete wallsform a cross against the sky. A huge mosaic in black, white, red,gold and blue is dedicated to the evolution of the Slavic alphabet, itscreators Cyril and Methodius, and their disciples. This is the largestmosaic triptych in Europe, a task which took 2 artists to complete.

To get a good look at the monument's next imposing detail,you have to leave its concrete bowels and take several the more,the better steps away. Look up. A , tonnes lion made of

2, pieces of granite adorns the highest part of the monument.According to local lore, the lion commanding an imposing vista overShumen and indeed a large chunk of northeastern Bulgaria, ishollow, and has an elevator inside one of the supporting columns.Todor Zhivkov treated visiting Soviet leader Leonid Brezhnev tocoffee in the lion's mouth...

Todor Zhivkov attended the opening of the monument, an eventseen as the peak of the celebrations of the ,th anniversary ofthe founding of Bulgaria. Many of the Communist top brass were

in attendance, and the series of ribbon-cutting events included theopening of a brand new aluminium factory in Shumen, and the newhistory museum in Preslav.

The mosaic triptych is the biggest

in Europe, and was made by 12

artists. One of them decided to

mark the news of the birth of his

son in an unusual way: he placed ablue pebble, instead of a black one,

in the beard of St Cyril, the author

of the first Slavonic alphabet

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Previous spread: Khans Tervel and

Krum, with quotes from Byzantine

chronicles about their deeds

Top: The monument outline

should resemble the evolution of

Bulgarian nation from Medieval

grandeur to bright Communist

future

Bottom: Khan Asparuh, founder

of Bulgaria

Even at the time, many people in Shumen were far from happy withthe Founders of Bulgaria monument. Today some citizens complainthat this showpiece of past glory was built at the expense of ordinarypeople, who were suffering severe shortages of anything from

tomatoes and toilet paper to housing. Estimates of how many blocksof flats might have been built with the reinforced concrete used forthe monument vary from five to 2.

Others, however, are proud of the thing, which is on the list ofthe National Tourist Sites of the Bulgarian Tourist Union, andthe mosaics and the grey figures of the early Bulgarian rulers are apopular spot for wedding pictures. The tourist office has respondedto the demand by offering wedding ceremonies inside or around themonument.

After the collapse of Communism in 8, and in the followingdecades of economic difficulties, there was no money for themaintenance of the monument. The elements took over and in 2,one of the legs of Khan Asparuh's horse collapsed. It was replacedwith a replica made of artificial stone, but maintenance remains aproblem. If she notices you, the lady at the ticket office will chargeyou a few leva for an entry ticket.

There are two ways to reach the Founders of Bulgaria monument.You can climb all the , steps of the grandiose staircase which

starts with four griffons and a water cascade at the theatre inShumen. The other option is to go by car; the monument is about sixkilometres from Shumen.

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--'King' o Black Sea waters'attacks' Bulgarian coast in

early autumnby Minka Vazkresenska; photography by Anthony Georgieff

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Eating fish in Bulgaria can be a complicated business. Along theBlack Sea, the smell of deep fried sprats is everywhere, and the menusof seaside restaurants offer mussels and jack mackerel, bluefish andturbot. All over the country, expensive establishments attempt to lureyou in with frozen salmon and bass, octopus, shrimps and squid allimported from somewhere, mainly Greece. Sushi is trendy, and most

Bulgarians eat carp for St Nikola's feast on December.None of the above mentioned varieties of fish and seafood,however, evokes such awe, anticipation and generates as manyheadlines as thepalamud, or Black Sea bonito.

A migratory fish, the bonito live in huge shoals that spend thewinter in the Aegean and Marmara seas. In spring, the bonito passthrough the Bosporus and enter the Black Sea. There they swim,spawn, eat smaller fish, and grow fatter from September until the endof November. Then, together with the new generation of bonito,

they return to the Marmara and the Aegean seas. During this legof the migration, thepalamudpass by the Bulgarian coast, wherefishermen vie to catch as many as they can from the shoals of bonito.

The reason for this infatuation with bonito lies both in its sizeand its taste. When they reach Bulgarian waters, the bonito havealready reached their optimum weight, at about two kilograms. Thebones are nothing to worry about, and the flesh is smelly, juicy andpleasantly fatty.Palamudtastes best when prepared in the simplestpossible way grilled and served with lots of fresh lemon and onions.

Other mouthwatering methods of preparation include cured bonito,when the fish is cut into round pieces and marinated in oil, salt, blackpepper and bay leaves. You can down a lot of rakiyawith this. Ahtopol, Bulgaria's Bonito Capital


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Heritage fom ve centurieso imperial dominationabounds throughout country

by Dimana Trankova; photography by Anthony Georgieff

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As you travel through Bulgaria you will inevitably be confrontedby remnants of its Ottoman past: mosques, water fountains, bridges,forts, baths and public buildings. It would be strange if you werenot Bulgaria spent years under Ottoman domination. Itbegan with the invasion at the end of the 4th Century, whichbrought chaos to the Balkans and destroyed the Second Bulgarian

Kingdom, and ended for the different parts of the Balkans inhabitedby Bulgarians between the 878 San Stefano Peace Treaty and the2- Balkan Wars. The heritage of the Ottomans, however,remains contentious, provoking sometimes heated debate amongBulgarians, and is more often than not hijacked for political purposesby politicians of various shades and opinions.

The reasons are many, varied and too complex to explain in detailhere, but in the minds of the overwhelming majority of Bulgariansthose years of "Turkish yoke" were a dark age of an economic

and cultural backwater, of blood-letting and slavery, and of atrocitiescommitted by Muslims against Christians. Yet, Bulgarians under theOttomans were allowed to own property, and managed to ensure thesurvival of their own national church, set up schools, spoke Bulgarianand traded all over the empire and abroad. There is little doubt thatthe Ottomans greatly influenced the lifestyle, culture and landscapeof the Bulgarian lands; a new cuisine was developed you alreadyknow the similarities and differences between Bulgarian, Greek andTurkish meatballs and baklava. Turkish, Arabic and Persian words

entered the Bulgaria language, and the architecture and the urbanlandscape also changed, acquiring a distinct Middle Eastern feel thatremains to this day.

Previous spread: The Devil's Bridge

near Ardino, in the Rhodope, is 56

metres long and 13 metres high

Plovdiv boasts the earliestclocktower in the Balkans, and

the beautiful 15th Century Cuma

Mosque

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Unlike cuisine and language, however, the material heritage of theOttomans is not obvious everywhere. Most of it was lost during thewaves of modernisation in the late th-early 2th centuries, andin the mass reconstruction of town centres in the s-8s. Yet,there are still many fascinating examples of Ottoman heritage, andno visit to Bulgaria would be complete without exploring what willalways be a major part of Bulgaria's history.

Understandably, with their tall minarets, mosques are the mostobvious example of Ottoman architecture in Bulgaria. Sofia, which

under the Ottomans alternated between prosperity and decline,now has only one functioning mosque, the Banyaba. Built in 7,it stands in the oldest inhabited part of Sofia. The ruins of RomanSerdica lie beneath it, and the steaming mineral springs, the StalinistCentral Department Store, and the bustle of Pirotska Street and theWomen's Market are nearby.

In fact, Sofia has two more surviving mosques, but they have beenconverted into a museum and a church. Built in 4-4, the GreatMosque has nine domes, covered with lead. Since the 88s, the

building has been used as a museum of archaeology.The th Century Imaret Mosque is the creation of the influentialOttoman architect Mimar Sinan. Until the end of the th Century,the mosque stood outside the city boundaries and after 878 wasturned into a prison. In -, the mosque was remodelled intoone of Sofia's most beautiful churches, Sveti Sedmochislenitsi.

Plovdiv, Bulgaria's second largest city, has preserved two fascinatingold mosques. The th Century Dzhuma Mosque is a monumentof national importance and stands by the remains of the ancient

Roman stadium. Down the road is the Imaret Mosque, also from theth Century. Its minaret with a zigzag pattern laid in brick is trulyamazing.

1Since the 1880s, Sofia'sArchaeological Museum has been

housed in a former mosque

2The 17th Century KurunluMosque in Silistra is now

abandoned

3The women's balcony atYambol's Old Mosque, from the

15th Century

4Plovdiv's most impressiveOttoman bath, Chifte Banya, is

now a contemporary art gallery

5In 1906, the mosque atUzundzhovo was turned into

a church

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Besides mosques and shrines, there is a host of other examples ofOttoman heritage scattered throughout Bulgaria.

Fortresses are probably the most spectacular. In the early centuriesof Ottoman rule, while the empire was still expanding, erectingnew fortifications in the Bulgarian lands was not a priority becausethey would soon be far from the borders. However, when theOttoman conquest stopped at Vienna in 8 and the empirestarted to contract, the erection of forts became of vital importance.The sultans responded by hiring European military engineers and

architects to construct forts using the latest designs and techniques.When Bulgaria gained independence in 878, some of these weredestroyed, but a few were preserved, mostly along the Danube.

The most picturesque of the surviving Ottoman fortresses is atBelogradchik. Its citadel is protected by strong walls overlooked bysome of the most remarkable formations of the natural phenomenon,the Belogradchik Rocks. In nearby Vidin, the most recent layout ofthe Baba Vida fortress dates from Ottoman times. The fortress aboveSilistra designed by German military engineer Helmuth von Moltke

was finished in time for the Crimean War and still housed an activeregiment at the beginning of the 2th Century.From the end of the th Century, city life in the European parts

of the Ottoman Empire was regulated by the chimes of an increasingnumber of clocktowers. The earliest one was in Plovdiv, built atopthe appropriately named Sahat Tepe, or Clock Hill.

By the end of the th Century there was not a town of importancein the Bulgarian lands without a clocktower. Many of these buildingswere lost in subsequent decades, but an incomplete list of the most

interesting ones should include the clocktowers in Razgrad (84),Berkovitsa (72), Etropole (7), Dobrich (7th Century), Svishtov(7) and Sevlievo (777).

1Osman Baba tekkeis the shrineof a 16th Century spiritual leader,

and is a major pilgrimage site in

Haskovo region

2Few Bulgarians are aware thatthe lighthouse adorning Bulgaria's

easternmost tip at Shabla was built

in the 1850s on the orders

of Sultan Abdlmecid I

3Ibrahim Pasha Mosque inRazgrad is one of Bulgaria's finest,

but has been abandoned for

decades

4Bulgaria's longest Ottomanbridge, Mustafa Pasha inSvilengrad, is 295 metres long

and has 21 arches

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Water is very important to Muslims and, though public baths wereknown in the Balkans from the time of the Romans, their heyday wasin Ottoman times. Cities and towns were dotted with large and smallhamams, or public baths, and hot mineral springs added healingproperties to the pleasure of bathing. Like clocktowers, baths werebuilt and happily used by Christians too.

Many of these baths were still in use well into the 2th Century,but today most of the surviving hamamsare abandoned, including

the ones in Kalofer, Berkovitsa, Gotse Delchev and Banya, nearRazlog. Some were luckier and were turned into galleries or evenrestaurants. In Plovdiv, Chifte Banya, or Double Bath, now houses acontemporary art gallery, and in Kavarna the old hamamhas becomea maritime museum.

In Ottoman times, public water fountains were usually a gift from alocal benefactor to the community. The most common type of waterfountains were ornate slabs built into walls, but larger, freestanding,roofed examples with several outlets after the imperial fashion in

Constantinople were also erected. Perhaps the most beautiful ofthese is the freestanding water fountain, dating from , in thecentre of Samokov, a now sleepy town which in the Middle Ages andthe Ottoman period was a busy mining centre.

The Ottomans were dedicated builders of stone bridges and startedconstruction in the th Century, as soon as they felt secure in theirnewly-conquered lands.

The longest Ottoman bridge in Bulgaria is the Mustafa PashaBridge, built in 2, at a major crossing on the Maritsa River, now

the town of Svilengrad. It is 2 metres long and has 2 arches, thewidest of which has a span of 8 metres. The bridge is still in use bylocal traffic.

Top: The Agushev Konaks, in the

Rhodope village of Mogilitsa

Bottom: The so-called Roman Wallin Sofia is actually an Ottoman

open air prayer site from the 15th

Century


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Buzzing megalopolissits on two continents,two-hour drive fom

Bulgarian border

by Bozhidara Georgieva;photography by Anthony Georgieff

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Turks make up the majority of Istanbul's inhabitants, but eventhis group is far from homogenous. With only about 28 percent

of the population being native to the megalopolis, Istanbul hasswelled with internal migrants attracted by its booming economy,daring infrastructure projects, top class universities and the promiseof prosperity. Growing at a rate of more than percent annually,Istanbul is now home to Turks from all corners of the country, withthe most numerous communities coming from Sivas and Kastamonu.

The result is a variety of local traditions thrown together andsometimes lost in the multi-cultural vortex of Istanbul. Walking thestreets or taking public transport you are confronted with the sight of

women dressed in everything from colourful hijabs, to miniskirts, tothe omnipresent blue jeans. Men favour suits, or stone-washed jeansmade by some up and coming local menswear brand.

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Historical turbulence and political changes in the -2thcenturies have diminished the population of these groupsin Istanbul. Today they are only a tiny presence in the fabricof the city, but their faces and voices, businesses, homes andgraveyards, churches and synagogues are still there, forming animportant and visible part of the heritage in neighbourhoodssuch as Galata and its surroundings.

Westerners have been a part of the human conundrum ofthe megalopolis since the time of the Byzantine Empire. Theycame here as traders and businessmen, diplomats and tutors,and some of them stayed.

The diversity of inhabitants has resulted in a diversity ofcultures, behaviours, religions and cuisines. In the central areasof European Istanbul mosques, churches, and synagogues rubwalls in the contested and limited space. The air is thick withthe scent of the typical kebabs and stuffed vegetables from the

simple restaurants serving the ordinary people, while a rangeof fine dining restaurants vie for Michelin stars with theirreworking of Ottoman cuisine. Shopping opportunities areeverywhere, from the touristy lanes of the Grand Bazaar andthe more genuine experience of the Misir Bazaar, to the flashyshopping malls and Istiklal Caddesi, the city's oldest and mostrefined (nowadays somewhat over-refined) shopping street.

Trying to catch your breath in overpopulated Istanbul canmake you think that somehow the world has managed to cram

itself into a nutshell, and you are right at the centre of thepandemonium, but to lose yourself among the noise and jostleof thousands of people is one of Istanbul's greatest pleasures.


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...

ZDRAVINA PENEVA,from Varna, guessed correctly that thesite we have shown you in the picture of Where in BulgariaAre You? in Vagabond 95-96, is the 1,300 Years BulgariaMonument in Shumen. Zdravina wins the poetic guide Wall-to-Wall, Poetry o Europe.

Zdravina works for the Ministry of Interior. She reads Vagabondbecause she is curious of what new and interesting from thecountry will be covered in each issue. She is also happy that someof the articles are translated into the Bulgarian. In Bulgaria ,

Zdravina recommends the taste of the Bulgarian hospitality, thewonderful food, and beautiful places like Plovdiv and VelikoTarnovo. What Zdravina doesn't like in Bulgaria are the currentpessimistic atmosphere, the reluctancy of many Bulgariansto love their country, and the emigration of young and cleverpeople.

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,

When it comes to location, service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in thevery heart of thecity butthe building itself is part of the architectural heritage of the

Sofia, Sveta Nedelya Sqphone: 2 8 4www.theluxurycollection.com/sofia


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Varna, Slivnitsa Blvdphone: 2 84 ; fax: 2 84 www.hotelplazabg.com

very heart of the city, but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital. The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls. This summer Sofia Hotel

Balkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests. Until September they canenjoy free transfer, free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge. And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan.

To make the most of Varna, go for the centre and the Plaza Hotel. Right in front

of the Sea Garden, the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture, bathtub, air-conditioning, and free Wi-Fi. The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna. The location in the heart of the city is perfect, just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby.

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