VALVULITA · VALVULITA.COM Info gratis para que arregles tu auto 1x big red bush (in the large...

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Info gratis para que arregles tu auto

1x big red bush (in the large bracket that holds the gearlever shaft)

4x hard plastic bushes (only 2 needed, for bracket bolted to the gearbox)

2x big clear soft rubbery bushes (for the relay shaft)

2x small white soft rubbery bushes (for the ends of the shift rod)

2x rivets (un-needed, used for the red bush housing but no need to drill out old ones)

4x soft foamy washers (used on the short & long link rod ball joints)

Its also worth buying an uprated relay shaft bush from:

http://www.iol.ie/~locoblade/bushes.html

Will improve the forward back feel a great deal

Ok pop the bonnet and this is what you'll see, note I've already fitted the weighted shift rod:

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Remove the header tank and place it out of the way, this gives you loads of room to work in.

Pre 90 spec ones are just slotted into the bracket, 90 spec ones are held on with 2 bolts/studs

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under the black plastic trim bit. Don't forget to disconnect the level sensor if one is fitted!

The short & long rods with the plastic end caps have little clips to clamp the ends, carefully

unclip these, I snapped one off and had to make an emergency visit to the scrappy! Both rods

should then pop off with a little persuasion.

Lever the spring clips out of the metal shift rod and remove, make sure these don't ping off &

disappear!

Undo the 13mm nut on top of the relay shaft, and remove the large metal arm.

Loosen the 13mm pinch nut & bolt on the clamp on the gearlever shaft bracket, until it can be

removed (you might want to mark its position but Chances are the alignment will be out after

refitting all the bushes anyway!)

Remove the 3 13mm bolts holding the relay shaft bracket to the steering rack, and remove.

This is tricky, you have to wiggle the bracket about whilst holding the gearlever shaft as far

back as it will go, there is only just enough clearance!

Your engine bay will now look like this (note 2 of the gearbox linkage bracket bolts are circled):

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Now you have 2 choices, either remove the bracket bolted to the gearbox, or just unbolt the

lever from the bracket. If you wish to change the gearbox it would be a good plan to do it at

the same time as the only way to do it is to remove the linkage bracket. It also makes it easier

to fit the replacement bushes and refit the lever, plus you can clean it up nice

To remove the bracket:

Undo the large bolt through the middle of the gearbox mount.

Jack the gearbox up as far as possible, go slowly as the clutch arm will hit the inner wing.

Remove the bolts holding the linkage to the gearbox and it should slide out nicely

If you want to replace the gearbox mount, there are 2 smaller bolts holding the gearbox mount

in the subframe, remove these and you'll have JUST enough clearance to remove it and swap

in the new one.

To remove the lever from the bracket:

Simply remove the 13mm nut & bolt and the lever will slide off

Ok now you'll have a pile of linkage bits on your workbench, after cleaning em up with a wire

brush you'll have something like this:

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(notice I forgot to put the small plastic linkage and the lever mentioned above in the pic)

It should now be pretty obvious which bushes go where, if you are unsure I've listed the

locations above. The tricky one is the big red bush but it is possible to rip the old one out and

fit the replacement without drilling out the rivets, put it in a tub of warm water first to make it

a wee bit more flexible. Then as the red book says, re-assembly is the reverse of removal,

make sure you grease up the moving parts while you put it all back together

Now to set up the alignment, there is an alignment tool to make the job easy:

go on ebay, search for 'tool' in the car parts section and select 'vw' from the manufacturer,

theres usually a few on there.

But being a tight Northerner I just used an old cassette tape held in the gap between the

reverse gate & lockout lever with duck tape! Make sure you do the pinch bolt up tight, I made

the mistake (twice!!) of not doing it up enough and lost all my gears a day or so afterwards as a

result

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Job done:

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Gearstick housing replacement:

It's pretty straightforward to do but a bit fiddly. You can still get the repair kit from VW, part

number is 191 798 116A. I would recommend you get the genuine kit, this isn't a job you want

to be doing twice! It also helps if you get an alignment tool from Dave2227 off ebay, but this is

not essential.

1. Remove the gearstick gaitor & centre console to give you more room to work

2. Undo the 2 10mm nuts either side of the gearstick.

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Raise the car on ramps, or jack it up, if it's too low for ramps. Observe safe practice - use axle

stands, apply the handbrake, chock the wheels. Select neutral. Or if its a poverty spec you can

probably not bother raising it at all! on my 8v std GTI and driver suspension you could just go

straight under there and do it.

3. Remove the exhaust centre heat shield by removing the 6 nuts/clips holding it on, then

rotate it round the exhaust an off the car

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4. Shove the housing up into the car, it is only held in by gravity & grease at this point, then

remove the 4 13mm nuts holding the shiftbox to the car

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5. Now get back in the car, pull up on the stick and push down on the shiftbox, and Jiggle the

gearlever housing about until you can get it out, bit of a fiddle but it can be done!

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6. If the ball looks like it is worn you can remove it, if it looks OK I wouldn't bother! Its tricky,

you need to press the ball upwards while someone holds the gearlever down, then you need

to remove the split pin. Not an easy task!

It's much easier if you drop the gear lever down and out through the hole left by the absent

ball housing. You need to wiggle the stop plate gently through the aperture, then the white

plastic detent block through the same hole. A little pressure to move the exhaust sideways a

fraction helps and it's much easier with two people - one in the car and one under it. It will

come out, but needs fiddling.

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7. Refit the gearstick if you removed it in the previous step. Remember to be careful getting

the stop plate through the housing. Install the new ball housing its just as fiddly as getting the

old one out, some swearwords may need to be spoken!

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Other useful pics:

Gearstick removed (new ball fitted)

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Wear inside the ball housing - certainly enough to get you reverse instead of first. On my GTI

you could actually see through the bottom of the housing!

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Old and new balls; wear looked quite minimal, but in for a penny...

VALVULITA · VALVULITA.COM Info gratis para que arregles tu auto 1x big red bush (in the large...

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