Taco Bracket

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    20 TmOuThO.Om Jul 26Aug 1, 2012

    To achieve a perfect al pastor taco

    takes effort and skill. Pork, once

    marinated in chilies and achiote

    powder, must be sliced, stacked onto a

    vertical spit and flame-grilled until the

    exterior is caramelized. (Too many

    places griddle marinated pork to

    order.) A smart restaurant will perch a

    pineapple atop the spit so that a fruity

    glaze drips down to lacquer the meat

    Sliced off in strips and nestled in a

    corn tortilla, this pork is the crowning

    achievement of the taco arts

    A pork fiend pits his favoriteal pastortacos against each other in a 16-tortilla

    face-off. By Nick Kindelsperger

    Photograph byNicole Radja

    Prize pig

    3916 W 26th St (773-762-3380,taqueriasatotonilco.com)

    1708 W Lawrence Ave (773-275-0703)

    132 S Ashland Ave (312-733-7772,lalagartijataqueria.com)

    Maxwell Street Market

    3949 W 71st St (773-582-9701,zacatacos.net)

    814 W Randolph St (312-455-8114,decero.hellotacos.com)

    1206 W Lawrence Ave (773-275-5321)

    4418 W 63rd St (773-284-1003)

    2859 W Chicago Ave (773-235-2859)

    1531 N Damen Ave (773-235-4039,bigstarchicago.com)

    4429 W Diversey Ave (773-292-0400)

    Maxwell Street Market

    Taqueria la Flor de MeXico

    upTown Taqueria

    la lagarTija

    Taquerias aToTonilco

    Taquerias

    aToTonilco

    Taquerias

    aToTonilco

    ZacaTacos

    de cero

    carMelas Taqueria

    rubis

    Taqueria el pasTor

    Taqueria ricardo

    big sTar

    Taco el jalisciense

    2001 N Western Ave (773-772-4944,arturos-tacos.com)

    Maxwell Street Market

    arTuros

    Manolos

    4019 W North Ave (773-276-0768)

    birria HuenTiTan

    Tierra calienTe

    1402 N Ashland Ave (773-772-9804)

    rubis

    rubis

    rubis

    Taqueria

    el pasTor

    big sTar

    big sTar

    ZacaTacos

    Tierra

    calienTe

    Manolos

    Manolos

    Manolos

    Manoloswinner!

    Al pastor loves a crowd. The morecustomers there are, the less opportunity

    the meat has to sit around and dry out.This helps to explain why the best alpastor tacos come from the packedMaxwell Street Market, held on Sundaysin the South Loop (Desplaines Street fromRoosevelt Street to Harrison Street; seeour Maxwell taco crawl on page 22). Rubisand Manolos both spin towering hunksof red-hued pork, crowned with pineappleand cooked by the glow of charcoal. Onmy last visit, Manolos pastor was a littlejuicier, and the charcoal aroma a littlestronger. But the real answer is to try both.

    la lagarTija