Urban Planning, Sanitation and Beautification Bureau · Figure 20: Manual weed control (picture...

Ministry of Urban Development and Housing

ከተማ ልማት እና ቤቶች ሚኒስቴር

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Manual for Private Garden Establishment and Management Manual No.10/2008

Issue No.1 Page i of 118

Manual No.10/2008

January, 2016

Addis Ababa, Ethiopia

Urban Planning, Sanitation and Beautification Bureau

Private Garden


ከተማ ልማትና ቤቶች ሚኒስቴር

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Issue No.1 Page ii of 118

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Table of contents Page No

1.1. Introduction 1

1.1.1. General 1

1.1.2. Definition of domestic/private urban gardens (DUG) 2

1.1.3. Suspicions associated with DUGs 3

1.1.4. Factors affecting the development of DUGs 3

1.2. Rationale of the Manual 4

1.3. How to use the Manual 5

1.4. Approaches and scope of application of the manual 5

1.5. Domestic/Private Garden Management Experiences 6

1.5.1. International Experiences 6

1.5.2. Domestic/Private Gardens in urban centers of Ethiopia 10

PART TWO: STRUCTURE OF THE MANUAL 13

2.1. Private garden establishment and designing 13

2.1.1. Garden planning 13

2.1.2. Laying out of the Private Garden 14

2.1.3. Companion planting 15

2.1.4. Compost Preparation 16

2.1.4. Plant Propagation 20

2.1.5. Land preparation 39

2.1.6. Medicinal and Aromatic plants in DUG 44

2.2. Physical components of private compound 45

2.2.1. Sculpture 46

2.2.2. Fountain 50

2.2.3. Shade 52

2.2.4. Fences 53

2.2.5. Walls, Piers, Steps 53

2.2.6. Sidewalk & Driveway Pavement Surfaces 54

2.2.7. Lighting 54

2.3. Private garden Maintenance 55

2.3.1. Weeding 55

2.3.2. Mulching 58



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2.3.3. Watering and water sources for private garden 60

2.3.4. Fertilization 64

2.3.5. Arboricultural operations 66

3.3.6. Shaping garden shrubs 72

2.3.7. Root pruning techniques 72

2.3.6. Matured garden tree felling & harvesting 75

2.3.7. Garden lawn mowing 78

2.4. Logistics and Finance Requirement 78

Appendices 78

Appendix 3: List of required materials and tools 78

References 78



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Issue No.1 Page iv of 118

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List of figures

Figure 1: Preparing and cutting ............................................................................................................. 23

Figure 2: Tip layering procedures ......................................................................................................... 24

Figure 3: Procedure of simple layering ................................................................................................. 24

Figure 4: Procedure of compound layering ........................................................................................... 25

Figure 5: Procedure of mound layering................................................................................................. 25

Figure 6: Procedure of air layering ....................................................................................................... 26

Figure 7: Grafting procedures of garden plants .................................................................................... 27

Figure 8: Tools and equipment for grafting and budding of garden plants ........................................... 28

Figure 9: Simple whip grafting procedures ........................................................................................... 29

Figure 10: Procedure of Tongue Whip Grafting ................................................................................... 30

Figure 11: Top cleft grafting procedures............................................................................................... 31

Figure 12: Side cleft grafting procedure ............................................................................................... 32

Figure 13: Top bark grafting procedures............................................................................................... 35

Figure 14: Side bark procedure ............................................................................................................. 36

Figure 15: Shipping grafting ................................................................................................................. 37

Figure 16: Procedure of T-budding ....................................................................................................... 38

Figure 17: Procedure of patch budding ................................................................................................. 38

Figure 18: Chip budding procedure ...................................................................................................... 39

Figure 19: Local sculpture made up of local materials in Ethiopia ....................................................... 47

Figure 20: Manual weed control (picture taken from Hawassa city) .................................................... 56

Figure 21: Tree pruning techniques ...................................................................................................... 70

Figure 22: Garden lawn mowing techniques (Picture taken from Bahir Dar) ...................................... 78



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PART ONE

BACKGROUND

1.1. Introduction

1.1.1. General

Urban growth is occurring at an alarming rate worldwide. In 2008, it was reported that over 50%

of the global human population lived in urban environments. Much of this urbanization is

occurring in developing countries, and is projected to account for 80% of the urban population of

the world by 2030; whereas, the developed world has already experienced an urban transition

with 80% of its people residing in urban centers (UNFPA, 2007). Similarly, with an average

growth rate of about 5% per annum, Ethiopia’s rate of urban growth is one of the fastest in the

world (NUPI, 2003). However, the country is still the least urbanized country in the world: only

about 16% of its population lives in urban areas. The urban population of Ethiopia is

concentrated in few urban centers, predominantly in Addis Ababa. Addis Ababa has experienced

highly accelerated population growth mainly due to natural urban population increase and

internal migration. Accordingly, the city has been undergoing horizontal expansion as a major

form of development throughout its history. The degree of the physical expansion of the built-up

area of the city has outpaced the capacity of the city government’s infrastructure and basic urban

services (Minwuyelet, 2005; Yirgalem, 2008).

As urbanization grows at unprecedented scale and the natural environment becomes increasingly

fragmented and fragile, the importance of urban green spaces is getting momentum in mitigating

these detrimental impacts. Urban green spaces are important for the provision of ecosystem

services, and plays important role in improvement of urban quality life, health and well-being

(Goddard, 2009). Various researches confirmed the roles of urban green infrastructure in terms of

ecosystem services (de Groot et al., 2002; Tratalos et al., 2007) and health agenda ((Tzoulas et

al., 2007).



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Private (domestic) gardens are among the most important components of urban green

infrastructure (UGIs), providing significant values to the well-being of urban dwellers. Unlike to

other urban green spaces, however, private gardens are highly heterogeneous (in terms of size,

form and function) due to the fact that they are privately owned and subject to variable

management (Cameron et al., 2012). Even though it is widely recognized that private urban

gardens are important components in many people’s lives, attitudes towards them and their

management vary considerably and this in turn affects the benefits they constitute.

1.1.2. Definition of domestic/private urban gardens (DUG)

While there may be some variations in defining their scopes and forms, it is commonly agreed

(as in Smith et al., 2011; Cameron et al., 2012) that private (domestic) urban gardens are defined

as:

Private spaces adjacent to or surrounding dwellings, which may variously comprise lawns,

ornamental and vegetable plots, ponds, paths, patios, and temporary buildings such as sheds and

greenhouses, and is either privately owned or rented.

The key element is that the residents have autonomy over the garden, though they may wish to

delegate responsibility to others (e.g. professional designer, hired gardener, etc.) This definition

attempts to exclude open green spaces, communal gardens and parks, although their design may

in many ways reflect those of private domestic gardens.

A. Benefits of DUGs:

Even though the strategic importance of urban private gardens is growing worldwide (Gaston et

al., 2005; Tratalos et al., 2007), their specific contribution is rarely assessed, and hence their

relative value within the wider urban green space is difficult to quantify (Loram et al., 2007).

But, the available evidence signify that, in many countries, private gardens are among the major

component of urban green space and have considerable socio-economic and environmental

benefits to the urban dwellers (Gross and Lane, 2007; Goddard et al., 2009). Domestic urban

gardens, due to their close proximity to residents and ease of accessibility to many, appear to

have greatest benefit on human health and well-being. Many horticultural fruit crops, vegetables



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and ornamental plants are often grown within urban private gardens. These crops have significant

contributions to the livelihood of urban residents: shade, amenity in private compounds,

medicinal values, food for subsistence, and cash income, to mention a few.

Besides, domestic urban gardens are known to have various cultural and environmental services.

They improve localized air cooling, help mitigate flooding and provide habitat for wildlife, and

have a potential to provide a forum for exercise and to facilitate respite from stress. Increasing

attention is also being given to the role of private gardens in maintaining biodiversity in urban

and sub-urban areas (Davies et al., 2009, Gaston, et al., 2005). Urban gardens are also reported to

have considerable emotional, psychological, healing and even spiritual values for many people

(Dunnett and Qasim, 2000).

1.1.3. Suspicions associated with DUGs

On the contrary, some management issues on private gardens may contribute to greenhouse gas

emissions rather than offsetting them. Their role in use of resources may veer to the negative side

of the equation (for instance, use of water, pesticides, and fertilizers). In some countries,

gardening activities have been directly responsible for the introduction of invasive species, with

huge negative consequences for the indigenous biodiversity and the economics associated with

eradication measures. It is also observed that the escalating rate in urbanization is putting severe

threats to urban private gardens. The proportion of areas devoted to domestic gardens is, thus,

decreasing through infill development, i.e. existing gardens being sold for development, or

newer housing stock having smaller gardens define the private domestic garden as the area

adjacent to a domestic dwelling (Mathieu et al., 2007).

1.1.4. Factors affecting the development of DUGs

The development of urban domestic gardens is affected by a number of socio-economic, bio-

physical and policy-related factors. For example, housing type and density influences the

proportion of green space available: greater housing density is linked to smaller garden sizes, but

not necessarily less urban green space (Smith et al., 2009). Socio-economic variables (e.g.



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population and housing density, education, home ownership) are also better predictors of the

extent and the type of vegetation cover in private gardens than solely bio-physical variables (e.g.

rainfall, soil fertility, solar radiation, etc., Luck et al., 2009). Reports also showed that larger

domestic gardens are associated with higher income or tertiary-educated residents and tend to

have proportionally more vegetation, greater diversity of plants, and more complex garden styles

(Daniels and Kirkpatrick, 2006).

These all urges to have baseline information on the status and impact of private urban garden and

develop standards and working manuals so that urban private gardens could be sustainably

developed as an important component of the newly emerging urban green infrastructures, and

thereby continue to be significant contributors to quality life in urban areas.

1.2. Rationale of the Manual

Even though domestic urban gardens (DUG) are among the major UGI components in most

towns/cities of Ethiopia, alike to most UGIs, efforts to promote their sustainable management

have been rudimentary. Inadequate knowledge regarding DUG development standards and the

lack of a practical manual to guide/support extension workers, communities and private

producers are believed to be detrimental for the development of DUGs. This working manual is

prepared to provide baseline information and standard procedures for the development of DUG

on sustainable basis. The Manual is, therefore, supposed to contribute to the promotion of

sustainable DUGs development in Ethiopia, and thereby complement to the development efforts

of the country which are geared towards green development and/or poverty alleviation.

Among others, the specific objective of the manual is to provide baseline information on:

a) General overview of DUG, their current status in Ethiopia, and their relevance for quality

urban life and sustainable development

b) Preparation of guidelines on layout and design of DUG by integrating the various

components (mainly the green, grey, and blue components)

c) Selection of appropriate plant species suitable for DUGs in different agro-ecologies

d) How to establish and maintain healthy and productive DUGs, and



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e) How to improve productivity of DUG through development of sound management plans

so as to exploit the multitudes of benefits

1.3. How to use the Manual

The basis for applying the standards and management options identified in this working manual

is the agro-climatic zone and the socio-economic settings. Any development practitioners

wishing to use this manual have to first consider the following parameters:

a) Agro-climatic zones

b) Land use plans and suitability

c) Soil types and fertility

d) Agricultural Farming Systems (crop production systems and animal husbandry)

e) Vegetation types (indigenous trees and shrubs)

f) Indigenous conservation practices

g) Availability of inputs for increased productivity

After identifying the local circumstances, development agents (extension workers) and other

interested bodies can select the best standards and/or management options addressed within this

working manual that best suits to their situations.

Hopefully, this manual will serve as a reference document while exercising development and

management of DUG at different levels in the country. We also recommend that development

practitioners, research and education institutions at various levels can make adjustments to for

their own situations.

1.4. Approaches and scope of application of the manual

The manual starts with a general overview of DUGs worldwide, their current status, the main

challenges and opportunities in their management endeavors, and the associated benefits they

provide. Then, some best practices, and the existing challenges and opportunities of DUGs are

described based on experiences of DUGs development in Ethiopia and elsewhere. The sub-



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sequent sections deal with the overall standards and procedures required for the development and

management of DUGs with due consideration to the different components.

In the preparation of the manual, information on existing situations of the DUG found in

different categories of urban areas and agro-ecologies of Ethiopia, which was gathered from field

surveys in the different categories of the urban centers of the country, was considered in addition

to the information generated from extensive literature reviews. Therefore, the manual is prepared

in a way to provide technical and managerial guidance for urban gardens in different towns and

cities of the country, which are located across varied agro-ecologies. It is also hoped that this

guide will further be updated and enriched in the future for use by any concerned bodies.

1.5. Domestic/Private Garden Management Experiences

1.5.1. International Experiences

Despite the growing awareness of their conservation potential and their multiple benefits, urban

private gardens are supported only by very limited ecological researches, mainly because

residential landscapes have long been viewed as fragmented ecosystems, where access to the

system is difficult owing to fragmented private ownership (Goddard et al., 2009). So far, parks

and reserves remained the main focus of urban nature conservation endeavors. Domestic gardens

are seldom included in estimates of the extent of such space, probably because of a paucity of

reliable information and because by their very nature, private gardens tend to lie outside the

immediate control (and hence management requirements) of local government and administrative

authorities.

The existing limited studies on private urban gardens, however, indicate that domestic gardens

make a substantial contribution to urban green space. All over the world, many of the urban

dwellings have private gardens associated with them, although the form that these spaces take

and the uses to which they are put vary considerably. Domestic urban gardens are also

increasingly being highlighted for their potential importance to biodiversity, and the ways in

which this biodiversity can be enhanced. It is also indicated that domestic gardens, perhaps more

than any other green space categories, fulfill multiple roles.



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A. DUG may provide:

a) a valuable wildlife habitat,

b) a multi-functional space for people,

c) an environmental resource to cushion the likely impacts of climate change, and

d) a significant leisure space and area for enjoyment of the outdoors and for the cultivation

of plants; the expression of people’s direct relationships with nature on their doorstep

Different studies reported the share and importance of private gardens as a backbone of urban

green space. For example, estimates of area of private gardens in the urban environment vary

from 16% (Stockholm, Sweden), through 22-27% in cities of UK, to 36% (Dunedin, New

Zealand (Loram et al., 2007; Mathieu et al., 2007). Particularly, domestic urban gardens are

major components of the total green space in many UK cities. Loram et al. (2007) found, for five

cities in the United Kingdom (UK), that domestic gardens constitute between 18% and 27% of

the urban area. Similar contributions were found in other cities. The garden area constitutes

typically between 36% and 47% of total urban green space, indicating their importance as a

backbone of urban green space. But in contrast to their importance, gardens belong to one of the

least studied habitats in urban areas (Mathieu et al., 2007).

With regard to the existing garden conservation strategies, early experiences and lessons can be

taken from selected cities in developed countries. The management of private gardens lies largely

outside direct government control and, therefore, various strategies exist for incentivizing home-

garden owners into environmentally-friendly gardening activities.

1) Initiatives by conservation NGOs and several conservation charities are now

commonplace in developed countries; for instance, in USA, Canada and cities of the UK,

and are providing advice and incentives for individuals or communities to ‘certify’ their

gardens or neighborhoods as biodiversity hotspots.

2) The recognition of gardens within government nature conservation strategies is also

growing. An increasing number of cities are producing documents aimed at protecting

garden biodiversity, particularly in the UK (e.g. the London private gardens action plan),

but also elsewhere, (e.g. Adelaide, South Australia) (Smith et al., 2011).



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3) Such campaigns and initiatives by various organizations have a huge potential for

enhancing urban environments by coordinating public management actions to produce

cumulative positive impacts on biodiversity.

The majority of private garden research has been undertaken in developed countries and

began with long-term studies of single gardens. Short-term studies of multiple gardens have

now been undertaken in various locations; most notably the Biodiversity in Urban Gardens in

Sheffield project (BUGS) made a range of garden studies within the city of Sheffield, UK.

Other similar studies are also reported in most cities of the UK. Therefore, the situation of

urban gardens of selected cities within the UK, in this case, that of the Sheffield city and the

capital London, is presented hereunder for the benefit of experience sharing.

B. Experiences of the city of Sheffield, a city in northern England

(Source: Gaston et al., 2005)

a) Coverage and size of domestic gardens: domestic gardens within the city have mean area

of about 151m2 and cover approximately 33km2, which is 23% of the predominantly

urban area of the city.

b) Garden features: the most commonly reported garden features include; ponds, nest

boxes, compost heaps, trees, lawns, and domestic cats. It was observed that the overall

numbers of ponds, nest boxes, trees and the like in domestic gardens in the city are

impressive (in some cases exceeding their densities in the wider countryside). It was,

therefore, noted that encouraging their wider provision through improvement in their

maintenance could have substantial effects.

c) Investment in garden management: the survey report reveals that there is considerable

time investment, making the urban domestic gardens most intensively managed areas

within the city. Of the surveyed dwellers that own private gardens, the occupants of

40.5% worked in their gardens more than once a week, 34.2% about once a week, and

25.2% did so than once a week.

d) In sum, the report on domestic urban gardens of the Sheffield city highlights that

domestic gardens within the city are increasingly being recognized as substantial

components of urban green space, and are of potential significance for the maintenance

of biodiversity within urban areas. It is, therefore, recommended that this contribution



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should not lightly be ignored in auditing the provision of such space in urban areas, in

determining the benefits that the space provides, or in considering how this space can be

best managed to maximize those benefits.

C. Experiences of the city of London, capital of England

(Source: Smith et al., 2011)

a) Coverage and size of domestic gardens: even if they are not yet properly documented,

domestic gardens make-up significant amounts of Landon’s land cover. It is estimated

that the total area of private gardens in London is about 37,900ha, which is

approximately 24% of the total area. The average garden area is about 200m2 per

dwelling.

b) Garden management: available evidences show that current trends in the loss of total

garden vegetation are harming garden resource both for wildlife and as mitigation for the

likely effects of climate change in the city. To reverse this trend, a set of management

options were suggested;

1) The first mechanism is public engagement, aimed at improving the quality of this

resource by appealing to people’s interests in maintaining environmentally-friendly

environments. In this case, voluntary nature conservation organizations, such as the

London Wildlife Trust, have an important role to engage with members of the public

and influence the garden management. For example, the Trust launched its ‘Garden

for a Living London’ campaign in July 2008 to raise awareness of the value of

London’s gardens and motivate individual garden owners to protect or improve the

quality of their garden as part of a broader neighborhood green space.

2) The second mechanism for change is legislation, regulation and policy, with effective

enforcement mechanisms. In the city of London, there is a requirement for planning

permission to be received in order to pave more than five square meters of a front

garden with traditional, impermeable driveways that do not provide for the water to

run to a permeable area (Communities and Local Government, 2008).



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Generally, it is observed that domestic gardens are undoubtedly an important component in many

people’s lives, but attitudes towards them are not uniform: to some, they are an essential element

of life providing ample opportunities to their health and well-being; whereas to others, they are at

best a parking lot, or worse, represent an additional chore to an already busy lifestyle (Cameron

et al., 2012). Thus, educational processes may be required to encourage engagement, especially

as society becomes increasingly displaced from the natural world and food cultivation, but

evidence is required of the clear benefits before such activity could be undertaken. The observed

small, but growing, body of research on garden biodiversity has focused largely on individual

gardens. Hence, the next step would be to extend landscape ecology framework to the study and

management of gardens, in effect by treating groups of gardens not as independent units but

instead as patches of interconnected habitat within the residential ecosystem. To its full

realization, collaboration between ecologists and social scientists, urban planners and

householders is highly required (Goddard et al., 2009).

1.5.2. Domestic/Private Gardens in urban centers of Ethiopia

A. Overview

The practice of private gardens is not new phenomenon to most urban centers in Ethiopia. But,

there is almost no documented information with regard to the status and values of private urban

gardens in Ethiopia, and yet they have not received due attention from development practitioners.

According to the field survey conducted in 36 selected urban centers in the country, which was

conducted between September and October 2014, different types of private/domestic gardens

were observed in the urban centers. They are generally found at varying management levels. The

infrastructural facilities (hardcapes) and vegetated landscapes (softcapes) of most private

gardens encountered are not properly established and are not up-to standard.

The plant species observed in most private gardens include both native and exotic plants

purposely planted for shade, ornamental and food (fruit) values. Observation from sample

private/home gardens in the selected urban areas reveals that the practice of cultivating fruit

trees, vegetables, agricultural crops, shade trees and ornamental plants is widely practiced.

Nevertheless, in most cases, the trees and shrubs planted in private gardens are found to interfere

with buildings and utility lines. And, due to the limited landholdings, most plant species are

closer to each other; there is no appropriate spacing and also lack timely follow-ups and tending



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operations. The practice of maintaining diverse multipurpose plant species is, however,

encouraging and might need some management issues to utilize to the best of its potential.

Therefore, development of standards and guiding manuals of this type would help a lot in

realizing their sustainable management.

In general, some of the best practices, and the existing challenges and opportunities observed

during the extensive field surveys are addressed shortly as follows:

a) Best practices of DUGs management in Ethiopia

The observation from sample private/home gardens in the different urban centers of the country

reveals that the practice of cultivating fruit trees, vegetables, agricultural crops, shade trees and

ornamental plants is widely practiced at private/home garden levels within the urban centers.

These practices have connotations with the livelihood of the urban dwellers, vise-a-vise

subsistence values and cash income to the farming communities. The practice of maintaining

diverse multipurpose plant species (e.g. fruit trees, ornamental plants, field crops, vegetables,

medicinal plants, shade trees and live fences) is encouraging and, upon promoting proper

management activities, DUG can be utilized to their best potential and continue contributing to

the tackle against poverty. Even if it is limited, it has also been observed that, in some urban

areas, good management practices were observed. Some of these management practices include,

watering, inter-cultivation, weeding, tending operations, and establishment of private nursery

sites and fencing.

B. Challenges and opportunities of DUG in Ethiopia

According to the field surveys undertaken in different urban areas of the country, the following

are identified as the major challenges and opportunities for most of the private urban gardens.

a) Challenges

1) Lack of awareness and attention to UGI in general and DUGs in particular from both

the government and public side

2) Technical deficiencies and management gaps: technical shortfalls with regard to

design, species selection, tending operations, interference of trees/shrubs with



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infrastructures, spacing among plants, weeding, waste management, fertilization and

other related management issues

3) Lack of material inputs and logistic facilities

4) Increasing population densities, and hence limited access to land

b) Opportunities

1) Emerging willingness and initiatives on development of UGI components (including

DUGs) as components of the green economy strategies (attention is being given from

the government)

2) Potentials of fund raising from global funding organizations working on UGIs

3) Availability of enough labor

4) Availability of diverse plant species that can adapt the different agro-ecologies that

can easily be integrated with other development sectors

5) Conducive agro-climatic conditions, etc.



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PART TWO

STRUCTURE OF THE MANUAL

2.1. Private garden establishment and designing

2.1.1. Garden planning

Like anything, spending time at the beginning to develop a plan for your garden will help serve

as a guidepost as you set about creating your garden dream.

A. Among the things to consider in your plan are:

a) Where’s the sun? You need lots of sun for a vegetable garden (at least 6 hours of direct

sunlight each day). Before you finalize your location choice, take a couple of days to

observe how the sun “visits” your space during the day and make sure there’s enough

sunlight to help your crops to grow.

b) Where are you going to get the water? Rainy days take on new meaning as they help

with the watering needs of your garden. It’s likely, though, that you will need to

supplement Mother Nature’s watering efforts with some of your own. Setting up your

garden close to an accessible source of water will provide an extra measure of

convenience for you as the season progresses.

c) How much space do you need? Even the smallest of spaces can become a great place

for the start of your private gardening “career.” Growing in containers is a good option

for those who live in apartments and growing crops such as beans and peas that can

climb upwards on walls can help you squeeze lots of gardening into a small area. And if

you have a lot of available space, you might want to think about a “more than one year”

plan for how your garden will develop over time.



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d) What’s the quality of your soil? Much of the success of your gardening efforts will

depend on your soil’s quality. A simple way to figure out the type of soil that you have in

your garden is to scoop a handful of soil and give it a squeeze. If you have sandy soil, it

will be crumbly and won’t hold its shape in your hand; sandy soils don’t retain much

moisture. If you have clay soil, it will form a lump when you squeeze it; clay soils get

sticky when wet and turn very hard when dry. Loam, the ideal garden soil, will form into

a ball when you squeeze it but will break apart easily. To improve any soil – sand, clay

or loam – add compost. Not only will it provide a nutrient boost but it will improve the

texture of your soil. Refer part VI, (a-f), UGIS, 2015.

2.1.2. Laying out of the Private Garden

Map out such things as the space available and what is around it. Write down what and where

you are going to plant your various vegetables, considering not only the space on the ground but

how you can take advantage of vertical gardening (“growing upwards”) to increase your garden

yields. Plan for spaces between the rows to allow you access to your plants and the work that will

have to be done throughout the season (e.g., weeding, watering, harvesting). As one year follows

another, remember that your garden’s design will need to reflect the rotation of crops throughout

your garden’s space. The same crop should not always be planted in the same location in your

garden every year. Rotating crops will help renew the soil, keeping it healthy and preventing

diseases and pest infestations.

Therefore, preparation of the garden site is an important key to growing desirable plants for the

success of garden. An area exposed to full or near full sunlight with deep, well-drained, fertile

soil is ideal. The site should also be located near a water supply and, if possible, away from trees

and shrubs that would compete with the garden for light, water, and nutrients. While these

conditions are ideal, many urban gardeners have a small area with a less than optimal site on

which to grow different plants species. Yet, it is still possible to grow a different fruits,

vegetable, species and ornamental as well as medicinal crops in once private garden by

modifying certain cultural practices and types of crops grown.

Setbacks among townhouses vary (such in the common practice of staggering units), townhouses



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shall provide the required 40 percent landscaping. Townhouses may only have limited space for

foundation plantings and may require smaller shrubs that may need minimal pruning as to not

encroach upon the sidewalk. Foundation planting may be provided for on side yard end unit of

townhouse within the required side yard setback of 3.0 meters. If end unit is flanking road or a

pedestrian corridor it is desirable to have foundation planting. Perennial flowers, ground covers,

and shrubs are encouraged to be planted along both sides of main entrance walkways not

exceeding 1 meter in mature/maintained height. Open lawn areas may be used on the property at

minimum width of 1.5 meters. Shrubs, groundcover or perennials may edge one or more sides of

the open lawn area where deemed necessary to break up areas of private open space. Side yard

fencing may be used for end units and shall be flush along property line where setback is 3.0

meters. A continuous hedge maintained at no more than 1.2 meters nor less than 750 mm may be

substituted for the fence along the frontage line. Fencing can continue around the rear property

line and convert to hedges one time only. Perimeter fence may only be recommended in some

instances where a property abuts a public park, utility corridor or a public corridor between two

residential properties. Only in these instances a contiguous fence or other method of buffering is

preferred, however is highly desirable for residents to have access to all usable public spaces (via

gate). Other methods of spatial separation may be used or substituted. A continuous wall may be

used along frontage when grade exceeds 5 percent. Wall also may extend around to side yard on

an end unit. For planting along walls, refer to the section on walls in the General Landscape

Elements section. In the occurrence that furnishings, decorative items and structures be provided

for a private garden, such as bench, trellis, statue, etc. It is preferred that such items be contained

directly around the perimeter or contained within garden. Private gardens and its furnishings may

be located within the rear yard of the property.

2.1.3. Companion planting

Much of the science of companion planting is figuring out what works for you. Many books can

give you guidelines about what plants work well together. Some plants are attractants, some

repellents, some can be inter-planted with your crops and flowers, and some compete too

vigorously and should be planted in separate companion planting. Therefore, Companion

planting is the practice of choosing which plants to place next to each other to encourage

beneficial effects between them, attract beneficial insects that eat pests etc. For example, sweet



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corn can provide shade and support for climbing beans. The Garden Planner does not specifically

show companion planting likes and dislikes when placing vegetables on the plan since it already

shows warnings for the best position based on crop rotation principles. However, there is no any

common companion planting combination as a standard form because different gardeners

approach companion planting differently.

2.1.4. Compost Preparation

Much of the science of companion planting is figuring out what works for you. Many books can

give you guidelines about what plants work well together. Some plants are attractants, some

repellents, some can be inter-planted with your crops and flowers, and some compete too

vigorously and should be planted in separate companion planting. Therefore, Companion

planting is the practice of choosing which plants to place next to each other to encourage

beneficial effects between them, attract beneficial insects that eat pests etc. For example, sweet

corn can provide shade and support for climbing beans. The Garden Planner does not specifically

show companion planting likes and dislikes when placing vegetables on the plan since it already

shows warnings for the best position based on crop rotation principles. However, there is no any

common companion planting combination as a standard form because different gardeners

approach companion planting differently mostly, depending on the garden size, preference of

species by the garden owner, and topography of the land. However, most literature indicated that,

the vegetable coverage of a certain garden may extend from 30 – 40% of the garden area ). Refer

part VI, number 9(a-c), UGIS, 2015.

A. What is needed to make compost?

a) Plant materials, both dry and green

1) Weeds, grasses and any other plant materials cut from inside and around fields, in

clearing paths, in weeding, etc.

2) Wastes from cleaning grain, cooking and cleaning the house and compound, making food

and different drinks, particularly coffee, tea, etc.

3) Crop residues: stems, leaves, straw and chaff of all field crops – both big and small –

cereals, pulses, oil crops, horticultural crops and spices, from threshing grounds and from

fields after harvesting.



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4) Garden wastes – old leaves, dead flowers, hedge trimmings, grass cuttings, etc.

5) Dry grass, hay and straw left over from feeding and bedding animals. Animal bedding is

very useful because it has been mixed with the urine and droppings of the animals.

6) Dropped leaves and stems from almost any tree and bush except plants which have tough

leaves or leaves and stems with a strong smell or liquid when crushed, like Eucalyptus,

Euphorbia, etc.

7) Stems of cactus, such as prickly pear, can be used if they are crushed or chopped up. They

are also a good source of moisture for making compost in dry areas (Kolla area). When

the compost is made correctly, the spines are destroyed.

b) Water

Enough water is needed to wet all the materials and keep them moist, but the materials should

not be made too wet so that they lack air and thus rot and smell bad. Both too little and too much

water prevent good compost being made.

Water does not need to be clean like drinking water. It can come from:

1) Collected rainwater;

2) Collected wastewater, e.g. from washing pots and pans, clothes, floors, etc.;

3) Animal urine; or

4) Human urine

5) Water can also be collected from ponds, dams, streams and rivers

c) Animal materials

1) Dung and droppings from all types of domestic animals, including from horses, mules,

donkeys and chicken, from night pens and shelters, or collected from fields.

2) Chicken droppings are important to include because they are rich in nitrogen.

3) Urine from cattle and people:

B. Compost preparation methods

a) Basket composting

The composting process has a number of educational opportunities that can enrich the learning

experience. Learning about and taking part in compost production allows pupils to learn and

improve upon many transferable skills. Skills such as team-building, communication and



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organization are needed to make a successful collection system in schools. These skills are

developed to an even greater degree if pupils become involved in training members of the

community about how to compost and its importance.

If materials for composting are in short supply, you can still make good use of them by using the

basket method of composting. It is especially useful for food production in home gardens. The

method is as follows:

1) Dig circular holes 60 cm in diameter and 60 cm deep -1st step

2) Line the bottom with material which is difficult to decompose (twigs, stalks)- 2nd

step

3) Add 8 cm of animal manure- 3rd step

4) Add 15 cm of green vegetation (young leaves that have a high water content)- 4th step

5) Add 0.5 cm of ash- 5th step

6) Repeat steps 3 to 5 until the hole is full

7) Cover with grass or leaves to prevent water and nutrient loss

8) Using thin sticks and weaving them together, mark the circular outline of the pit with a

round basket, 10cm in height.

b) Indore method compost preparation method

The Indore Method is much used for composting in layers.

1) Building the heap

The basis of the heap should consist of twigs and cane shoots. The following successive layers

are piled on top of this:

i. A layer of about 10 cm tough organic material which is difficult to decompose;

ii. A layer of about 10 cm fresh organic material which decomposes easily;

iii. A layer of 2 cm animal manure, compost or slurry from a biogas tank.

iv. A thin layer of soil; the soil should be collected come from the top layer (top 10 cm)

of clean (moist) soil (e.g. from under trees). This ensures that the right micro-

organisms are brought into the heap.

v. This sequence of layers is repeated until the heap has reached a final height of 1.5 to

2 meters. In this way the heap is composed of many layers. Building the heap should

be done quickly, preferably within a week.

2) Turning over



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During decomposition the heap has to be turned over regularly, in order that it remains well

aerated and all the material is converted into compost.

i. The first turning over of the heap should be done after 2 to 3 weeks.

ii. The heap is broken down and built up again next to the old heap.

iii. The layers are mixed and the heap is, as it were, turned upside down and inside out.

iv. Again, a foundation of coarse plant material is made first.

v. Then the drier and outer, less decomposed part of the old heap is placed in the

central part of the new heap.

vi. The drier material will have to be watered before the heap can be built up further.

This core is covered with the rest of the material. The original layered structure is

lost.

vii. The second turning over takes place after 3 weeks and it may even be necessary to

turn the heap over again for a third time.

viii. Repeat the moisture test and the temperature test a few days after each turning over

operation.

ix. Some substances, such as human urine and wood ash promote the growth of the

micro-organisms. A small amount of these in the heap is sufficient to accelerate their

growth. If the process has to be speeded up spread some urine or wood ash over the

thin layers of soil, but only in small quantities; too much ash kills the micro-

organisms. Urine, diluted with water 1:4 ratio is sprinkled over the heap, using a

watering can.

3) The advantages of this method are:

1) The process can be kept under control and runs smoothly, because the heap is turned

regularly;

2) Compost is produced in a short time.

It is essential to mix old and tough materials, which are difficult to decompose (crop residues,

small twigs), with young and sappy materials, which are easily decomposable (fruit, vegetable

skins, young leaves). This is because different types of organic matter contain different

proportions of carbon (C) and nitrogen (N). The micro-organisms who decompose the organic

matter need both carbon and nitrogen to function well.

The ideal ratio of carbon and nitrogen for starting a compost pile is: C: N ratio = 25-30: 1



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Examples of nitrogen-rich materials are:

Young leaves, all types of manures, fish meal, fish waste, urine, leguminous plants.

Examples of carbon-rich materials are:

Dry leaves, crop residues of maize, sugarcane, rice, etc., twigs, wood shavings, coffee pulp,

carton, etc.

Note: Be careful not to use toxic materials. For example, plant parts sprayed with chemical

pesticides can have an adverse effect on the decomposition and the quality of the compost.

Diseased material with rusts and viruses for example, should be kept to a minimum.

2.1.5. Plant Propagation

Plant propagation is the process of multiplying the numbers of a species, perpetuating a species

or maintaining youthfulness of a plant. There are two types of propagation: sexual and asexual.

Sexual propagation occurs when compatible pollen lands on the flower’s stigma, grows down the

style and fertilizes the egg in the flower’s ovary. The seed grows from the flower’s union of the

pollen and the egg and is often contained in a fruit or similar structure. Asexual propagation

involves regenerating a new plant from a vegetative part (root, stem or leaf) of one parent. The

new plant is genetically identical to the parent plant.

A. The major methods of asexual propagation are as follows:

a) Cuttings (rooting a severed piece of the parent plant)

b) Layering (rooting a part of the parent and then severing it)

c) Grafting (joining a piece of shoot and dormant buds from one plant to a different

rootstock)

d) Budding (joining a bud from one plant to a different rootstock)

B. Sanitary Measures in Propagation Procedures

a) Sanitation during propagation is of the utmost importance to ensure industries continuous

development.

b) Within most industries there are likely to exist a series of regulations or procedures for the

propagation systems.



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c) The first line of defense against contamination is to isolate or strictly control access to the

propagation area.

d) Personnel that have access to propagation areas have to be provided with procedures on

preventing contamination.

e) All tools used must be dedicated to the specific areas and operations of propagation, and

should not be interchanged between different zones.

f) Propagation tools must be disinfected on regularly, and stored in a clean, dry area.

C. The detail description of each asexual propagation types is presented below

a) Cutting

1) Involves placing a detached section of a parent plant (stem, root or leaf) under conditions

that favor root and shoot development.

2) This method of propagation is rapid and accurate and used extensively by commercial

growers to increase stocks of plants that will not come true from seed

3) It is the commonest method of vegetative propagation

i. Cuttings can be classified as:

Stem Cuttings: on the basis of plant parts we extract for propagation, stem cuttings

classified in to three; these are Hardwood, semi-hardwood (ripe) and softwood

o Hardwood cuttings are taken in the dormant season when tissues are fully matured

and lignified through their entire length. This may be after leaves have dropped in

deciduous species.

o Semi-hardwood cuttings differ from softwood cuttings only in the maturity of the

wood. They are collected later in the growing season when the lower portion of the

cutting has become lignified (woody).

o Softwood cuttings are taken from woody plants when growth is still relatively soft

and succulent before tissues have matured and become woody.

Root Cuttings

o Root cuttings produce new shoots and renewal growth of the existing root piece.

o A plant that produces suckers freely from the roots under natural condition can be

propagated by root cuttings. Success is more likely if root cuttings are taken from



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young plants.

o New shoots adventitious bud whereas new roots develop from the old root or from the

base of the new shoot.

Leaf Cuttings

o Leaf cuttings comprise whole leaves with or without petiole.

o The cuttings are taken from plants that are thick and succulent.

o Adventitious shoots form at the base of the parent leaf and the original leaf rarely

becomes part of a new plant.

Leaf bud cuttings: comprises a leaf blade and petiole together with a small portion of the stem to

which the leaf is attached and includes the auxiliary bud at the base of the petiole.

Even though, cuttings can be classified as stem, leaf and root cuttings, but in this manual we are

only sticking on stem cutting because root cutting and leaf cutting are need some sophisticated

procedure, the probability of successfulness is less and also it needs skilled man power.

Therefore, these methods are not recommendable and practical to apply at household level

especially in Ethiopia case.

b) Selection of Materials for Cuttings:

1) Select stock plants that are healthy, vigorous and of known cultivar.

2) For hardwood cuttings select stocks with high carbohydrate and low nitrogen content.

3) Cuttings taken from young plants or shoots root better than those taken from old plants or

shoots.

4) Cuttings from lateral shoots root better than those from terminal shoots.

5) Take cuttings either before or after flowering. Don’t use flowering shoots for cuttings.

6) Note the growth habit of the plants. E.g. Coffee and Cacao.

c) Preparing Cuttings

1) Sanitation: The cutting propagation process fosters conditions that favor the development of

disease and insect problems. Because open wounds are avenues through which pest problems

can enter plants



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i.Select stock plants that are healthy, vigorous and of known cultivar.

ii.For hardwood cuttings select stocks with high carbohydrate and low nitrogen content.

iii.Cuttings taken from young plants or shoots root better than those taken from old plants or

shoots.

iv.Cuttings from lateral shoots root better than those from terminal shoots.

v. Take cuttings either before or after flowering. Don’t use flowering shoots for cuttings.

vi. The instruments used to prepare cuttings should be clean

vii. The cutting preparation area should be cleaned before and after cuttings are prepared

viii. Be careful not to damage leaves and cuttings (Damaged cuttings are more likely to have

problems in rooting both from disease and insects as well as from pre-mature aging of

damaged tissue)

Figure 1: Preparing and cutting

D. Layering

a) The development of roots on a stem while the stem is still attached to the parent plant is

called layering.

b) A layer is the rooted stem following detachment (removal) from the parent plant.

Most common types of layering are described below with their application procedure

1) Procedure of tip layering



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i.Dig a hole 3 to 4 inches deep

ii.Insert the tip of a current season’s shoot and cover it with soil

iii.The tip grows downward first, then bends sharply and grows upward. Roots form at the bend.

The re-curved tip becomes a new plant.

Figure 2: Tip layering procedures

2) Procedure of simple layering

i.Bend a low growing, flexible stem to the ground

ii.Cover part of it with soil, leaving the remaining 6 to 12 inches above the soil

iii.Bend the tip into a vertical position and stake in place. Wounding the lower side of the bent

branch may help in rooting. Simple layering mean making your propagated materials like

the below picture.

Figure 3: Procedure of simple layering

3) Procedure of compound layering

i. Bend the stem to the rooting medium as for simple layering, but alternately cover and

expose sections of the stem.



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ii. Wound the lower side of each stem section to be covered.

iii. Each section should have at least one bud exposed and one bud covered with soil. This

method works well for plants producing vine-like growth as you see on the below

picture.

Figure 4: Procedure of compound layering

4) Procedure of mound layering

i. Cut the plant back to 1 inch above the soil surface in the dormant season. Dormant buds

will produce new shoots in the spring.

ii. Mound soil over the new shoots as they grow. Roots will develop at the bases of the

young shoots.

iii. Remove the layers in the dormant season. Works well on heavy stemmed, closely

branched shrubs and rootstocks of tree fruits.

Figure 5: Procedure of mound layering



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5) Procedure of air layering

Differs, depending on whether the plant is a monocot or a dicot.

Figure 6: Procedure of air layering

i. Air Layering Monocots

Make an upward 1- to 1 1/2-inch cut about one-third through the stem. The cut is held

open with a toothpick or wooden match stick.

Surround the wound with moist, un-milled sphagnum moss (about a handful) that has

been soaked in water and squeezed to remove excess moisture.

Wrap the moss with plastic or aluminum foil and hold in place with twist ties or

electrician’s tape.

ii. Air Layering Dicots

With a sharp knife, make two parallel cuts about an inch apart around the stem and

through the bark and cambium layer.

Connect the two parallel cuts with one long cut.

Remove the ring of bark, leaving the inner woody tissue exposed. Scrape the newly bared

ring to remove the cambial tissue to prevent a bridge of callus tissue from forming. Apply

rooting hormone.

Wrap and cover using the same procedure as that described for monocots.

E. Grafting

Grafting is a technique by which two or more plant parts are joined together and eventually

grow as a single plant.



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Figure 7: Grafting procedures of garden plants

Characteristics of a good scion and rootstock

Scion Rootstock

a) Should be taken from the upper part of the tree.

b) Should be taken from vigorously growing

branches.

c) Length should be about 15–25 cm.

d) Diameter should be according to the size of the

stock, i.e. 6–12 mm in diameter.

e) Should be without flower buds.

k) Should have well developed vegetative buds

in a dormant stage.

f)Usually grown from seeds

l) Have well developed root system &

m) Resistance to soil-borne diseases

n) It should be tendered carefully before & after

the grafting

o) Adaptation to different soil types & pH

1) Requirements for a successful grafting operation

i.The stock and the scion must be compatible.

ii.Usually, the more closely related the plants the better the chance of the graft taking. For

example, apple to apple is much more successful than apple to pear

iii.The cambial region of the scion must be placed in close proximity with the cambium of the

stock.

iv.The cut surfaces must be held together tightly by wrapping, nailing, wedging, etc.



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v.Rapid healing of the graft union is necessary so that the scion may be supplied with water and

nutrients from the stock by the time the buds start to open.

vi.The grafting operation must be done when the stock and scion are in the proper physiological

stages.

vii.The scion buds need to be dormant. The stock needs to be capable of producing callus tissue

for the healing process to occur.

viii.For apples, dormant scion wood is collected during the winter and kept inactive by storing at

low temperatures. The stock may be dormant or active depending on the grafting method

used.

ix.Immediately after the grafting operation is completed, all cut surfaces must be protected from

desiccation.

x.The graft union may be covered with tape, grafting wax, or with moist materials covered with

some type of grafting frame.

xi.Proper care must be given to the grafts for a period of time after grafting.

xii.Care must be taken that shoots coming from the stock below the graft do not choke out the

desired growth from the scion.

xiii.It is recommended that the scion be supported to prevent breakage due to the wind or the

weight of the fruit.

xiv.The knife needs to be very sharp. A grafting knife needs to be razor-sharp to insure success. A

utility knife can be used instead of a grafting knife. Advantages of a utility knife over a

grafting knife include cost and no sharpening.

Basic tools of grafting and budding are:

Budding/grafting tape

Budding/grafting knife

Budding/grafting tape

Pruning shares

Figure 8: Tools and equipment for grafting and budding of garden plants



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2) The most common grafting methods are described below with their procedure

i. Whip Grafting

The whip graft is useful for plants that unite easily.

This method is useful for apples, mangos and pears.

It can be used to graft root, stem or top graft.

The diameter of the scion and rootstock should be the same, from the size of a pencil to

10-15 mm.

ii. Whip grafting has two types (namely Simple Whip Grafting and Tongue Whip Grafting)

Simple Whip Grafting

o This type of grafting practice includes the process of a simple sloping cut on both the

scion and the rootstock.

o The two parts should overlap each other perfectly.

o In any case, one rule must be followed: The wider the scion and root stock, the longer

the cut surface.

Simple Whip Grafting

Figure 9: Simple whip grafting procedures



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Tongue Whip Grafting

o This method is more common in practice, especially in the case of pear and apple

trees.

o It is used to graft thin stems.

o It may be used on roots, stems or tops.

o The scion should have two or three buds with the graft made below the bottom bud.

o The first cut is a 2-5 cm sloping cut at the bottom of the scion.

o The second cut is made with a distance 1/3cm from the tip of the first cut.

o The same process is repeated on the rootstock.

o In apple propagation, the tongue grafting is mainly used to graft on M4 (semi-

dwarfing – 5m height) and M9 (very dwarfing – 3m height) rootstock.

Tongue Whip Grafting

Figure 10: Procedure of Tongue Whip Grafting



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Top Cleft Grafting

o For this method, the scaffold limb of the stock should be 4-6 cm wide.

o It should be straight and growing vertically.

o It should be free from spurs, knots and cankers.

o The limb must be cut where the amputation point is keeping the limb from splitting or

the bark from peeling.

o After that, the stock must be split across the center to a depth of about 15 cm.

o Next, cut the scion 20 cm long and make two sloping cuts about 4-5 cm long.

o The wedge of the knife should be driven into the center of the split that was held apart

and subsequently joined with the scion and the stock in a way that the two cambia

will be in contact with each other.

o Usually, we use two dormant scions for the two opposite sides of the split.

Top Cleft Grafting

Figure 11: Top cleft grafting procedures



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Side Cleft Grafting

o The processes are similar to that of the top grafting method; however, grafting is done

on the upward side of the limb.

o Additionally, the limbs are not amputated until the grafting scion begins to shoot.

o The stocks are then split with a diagonal cut about 3-4 cm long and 1/2 cm deep and

are joined with the scion at the stock.

o The next step is to tie and wax the graft.

o The scion must be covered with a small, thin plastic bag that contains a piece of

paper to prevent the scion from drying up.

o This bag can be removed after 7-10 days.

o When the scion begins shooting, cut the limb closest to the grafting point.

Side Cleft Grafting

Figure 12: Side cleft grafting procedure



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3) Procedure of Approach grafting

i. Some trees are very difficult to graft such as mango and macadamia.

ii. In these cases we can use the approach grafting method.

iii. The main difference between these techniques and other methods are that the scion is

attached to its root system during the grafting process.

iv. Take two plants. One will be the rootstock and the other the scion.

v. Make the same cut on both stems at the same height.

vi. Hold the two stems together and tie them with tape.

vii. When the grafts have joined, remove the top of the rootstock plant with a cut above

the joining point and remove the bottom of the scion plant with a cut below the

joining point.

Approach Grafting



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F. Budding

a) Budding is a form of grafting. However budding utilizes only one bud and a small section

of bark with or without wood.

b) It is the principal means of propagating fruits like stone fruits (apple, pear, peach &

plum), citrus fruits, avocado and rose.

c) It is accomplished when the rootstock is in active growth (during late summer) than in

resting/dormant stage so that the cambium divides and the bark separate readily from the

wood.

1) Requirements

i. Rootstock should have the desired characteristics of vigor, proper growth habit, and

resistance to soil born pests as well as being easily propagated.

ii. Bark that slips on the stock plant /active growth stage

iii. Buds that is resting/dormant for insertion

iv. Compatibility b/n the bud and the stock

2) The most common budding are discussed below with their full procedure

i. Procedure of Top Bark Grafting

In this method the dormant scion should be used.

The stock should be grafted when the bark begins to slip. The first step is to cut squarely

across trunk (4-6 cm diameter).

After the scion is cut across, a slopping cut of about 4-6 cm is made, which is done above

the top bud (7-8 mm).

The scion must be joined at the surface against the side of the stock.

Finally, fix the scion with 2 nails and wax it once this is complete.

Keep the trunk below the joining point so that it can be free from sprouts and shoots.



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Top Bark Grafting

Figure 13: Top bark grafting procedures

Procedure of Side Bark Grafting

This technique is very similar to the top bark grafting.

The square cut is 2-3 cm long and 8-10 cm wide.

The joining part is then tied.

Nails are not used and the branch of the stock above the joining point should be cut off

after the scion begins shooting.

This method is most commonly used during the growing season.

Side Bark Grafting



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Figure 14: Side bark procedure

ii. Procedure of Slipping Bark Grafting

The technique has many similarities with the budding methods and can be applied during

the same period, when the bark peels easily off the stock.

The first step is to cut back the stock.

Next, make a 15-20 cm long cut on the bark from the point where the stock was cut back.

The cut is similar to the cut used for T-budding; however, only cut the bark for slipping

barks grafting.

The scion preparation is easy.

First, make a sloping cut on the stick.

A slight twist with the grafting knife may open the two flaps of bark.

After that, the scion should be inserted under the two flaps of bark by pushing it

downward.

Finally the incision should be closed with budding tape, which should be wrapped tightly

around the stem.

Slipping Bark Grafting



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Figure 15: Shipping grafting

iii. Procedure of T-budding

The “T” cut on the stock is done about 20-25 cm above the surface with a 2 cm long

vertical cut and a 7-8 mm long horizontal cut on the stock.

A slight twist with the budding knife may open the two flaps of bark.

After that, the bud should be inserted under the two flaps of bark by pushing downward.

If part of the bud remains above the horizontal cut, it must be cut off.

This will allow the flaps to be closed tightly.

Finally, the incision should be closed with budding tape, which should be wrapped tightly

around the stem.

Tying must start at the bottom or the top end of the incision.

After 3-4 weeks, the tape should be removed (if it did not already fall off).

At this time, the shield of the bud and the petiole may indicate the condition of the bud.

If the shield is shriveled and the petiole does not fall off at the touch, the bud is possibly

dead and the budding process should be repeated.



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Figure 16: Procedure of T-budding

iv. Procedure of Patch-budding

Patch-budding is used for thicker barked trees (walnut and pecan).

A patch of bark is removed and a same sized patch with the bud is inserted in its place.

Normally done during the growing season when the bark separates readily from the wood

along the cambial layer

Figure 17: Procedure of patch budding

v. Procedure of Chip-budding

Chip-budding does not use the protective bark flaps as T-budding does, but it also does

not use slipping bark.

The first step is to make a cut about 2-2.5 cm long with a depth of ¼ to 1/5 the diameter

of the stock.



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With a horizontal cut made on the bottom, the cutting can be removed. The bud can also

be cut off if necessary.

The bud stick and stock must be the same diameter.

The stock and scion must be placed together in such a way that allows the cambia of the

bud and stock to match together as much as possible.

Desiccation is a high risk when we use this method, therefore, the wound should be

wrapped tightly with grafting tape.

Figure 18: Chip budding procedure

2.1.6. Land preparation

A. Ornamental tree plants

Tree plants are generally planted alone, apart from other similar plants. Planting them usually

involves digging a single hole in the lawn or mulched bed. Such trees include most of the shade

trees, and many small flowering trees or large-maturing shrubs. When digging a single hole, it is

essential to make it deep and wide enough to accommodate the roots of the plant, whether it is

bare-root, balled and burlapped, or container grown. A hole that is 2.5-5cm wider than the

diameter of the root ball, but no deeper than the root ball, will allow ample room for good

backfill soil around the roots. Do not loosen the bottom of the hole or add topsoil below the root

ball of larger plants. The added weight of such plants often results in settling of the root ball and

possible root damage. When digging the hole for individual plants discard any existing sod or

place it in a compost pile. Place the good topsoil in one pile next to the hole and the poorer

subsoil in another pile. Do not use sod or any other materials in the bottom of the planting hole.

The root system of the plants should only be exposed to quality backfill soil. If the subsoil and/

or topsoil is heavy clay or extremely poor you may wish to amend the backfill soil with organic



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matter. With proper soil preparation, much of the native soil dug from the planting hole may be

used in the backfill operation.

a) Shrub and ground cover beds

When planting shrubs and ground covers in groups for a specific landscape effect, it is often

easier to consider the entire area to be planted as one single hole. If the bed can be worked up to

a depth of 25-30cm, you will have most of the labor for planting done. When the root system of

larger shrubs requires a hole deeper than 30cm, you will have to apply the same principles used

for tree plants. Working the soil in the entire area will improve the root development for all the

plants. Root penetration will be much easier and faster when each individual shrub or ground

cover plant does not have to establish itself in small holes opened in the native soil of the site.

In addition, any needed soil amendments can be incorporated more easily and mixed with all the

soil available to the roots. If the soil at the planting site is very shallow or poor, you may wish to

consider replacing it with better quality topsoil. When this is necessary, you should remove the

soil to a depth of 20-38cm and blend the new topsoil with the existing topsoil to aerate a

transition zone between the existing soil and the new soil. For marginal cases of poor quality soil,

it may be more practical to remove some of the soil, mix it with good topsoil and organic matter,

then restore the original level of the soil in the bed.

When total soil removal from the bed area is not practical, it may be helpful to consider

incorporating raised planting beds into the area if the proposed landscape design will

accommodate such modification. Raised beds use better topsoil as the growing medium, which is

placed on top of the existing site soil. Some topsoil should be incorporated into the existing site

soil to provide a transition between the poor and better growing soil. Soil depths in a raised bed

should be adequate to support all the roots of the plants used. The edges of the raised beds should

also extend horizontally far enough to provide for the growth of the roots over time.

b) Special Planting Requirements for Bare-Root Plants

The hole for bare-root plants should be large enough to permit the roots to spread out in a normal

manner without cramping or twisting. If the roots are curled around the side of the hole, they will

tend to continue to grow in that direction and not extend out into the surrounding firmer soil to



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anchor the plant in the ground. Either trim the longest roots to fit the hole or increase the size and

shape of the hole to accommodate the existing root system. The hole should be deep enough to

allow for the natural existing downward spread of the root system. If the subsoil is very poor or

heavy clay, breaking up the bottom of the hole to allow for better drainage may help. Punching

holes into the bottom of the planting pit itself will create escape channels for water to drain away

from the root system. A firmed cone of soil should be placed in the bottom of the hole at a height

that will allow the plant to sit at the same height it grew in the nursery. The root collar, flare, or

point where the root system and plant stem join should be at the final soil grade or slightly

higher, but never lower for ornamental plants.

c) Special Planting Requirements for Balled and Burlapped Plants

Holes for planting should be prepared as described earlier (2.5-5cm wider than the diameter of

the root ball, and no deeper than the depth of the root ball) to provide adequate space for backfill

soil around the root system. If the soil quality at the site is poor, it is advisable to increase the

diameter of the hole by 50 percent to allow for a greater amount of better, less compact soil

around the root ball. Before completing the hole, check the root ball on the plant to make certain

that the root collar or flare is actually at the top of the root ball and not covered by several inches

of soil.

At planting, the root collar or root flare should be at the level of the final grade or even slightly

higher. If the root collar is covered with a layer of soil inside the root ball, determine the height

of the root ball from the collar to the base of the ball. This measurement should be the actual

depth of the planting hole to assure that the root system is at the proper depth in the soil. After

the plant has been set in the hole, you should remove this excess layer of soil from the top of the

root ball to expose the root collar. Do not remove the burlap before the plant is set in the planting

hole. The burlap will decompose in the soil and can be planted right along with the plant. When

the water has drained through the soil, continue filling the hole with soil until it is about 3/4 full.

Once the hole is 3/4 full with soil, loosen the burlap and cord around the top of the root ball, if

you have not already done so. The excess exposed burlap and cord can be cut away and

discarded, or folded down along the side of the uncovered root ball. Knotted burlap and cord

around the base of the plant break down slowly and may interfere with the growth of the plant.

Cut and remove all rope used to secure the ball and burlap to the trunk of the tree. Do not allow



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the burlap to extend above the soil surface, because it will act like a wick and draw needed soil

moisture away from the root ball below.

d) Special Planting Requirements for Container-Grown Plants

When planting container-grown plants, follow the same preparation in both the hole size and

planting depth as you would did for balled and bur-lapped plants. The container has to be

removed from this type of plant before it is set in the ground. Even some of the paper materials

used for containers break down slowly enough to restrict optimum root development in the soil.

Any circling roots in this type of container will continue in the same direction if the container is

set with the plant. Of course, plastic or metal materials would be even more harmful to root

expansion. Remove the container by either cutting it away or by inverting and knocking the edge

of the container sharply and lifting the container off of the root ball. One additional operation is

needed before the plant is set in the planting hole. Take a sharp knife or digging spade and cut an

X mark across the bottom of the root ball. Make the cut about one-quarter the depth of the entire

root ball. If there is a tight network of roots around the outer edge of the root ball, you should

also make several vertical cuts in the root ball from top to bottom.

The vertical cuts do not have to be deep, just enough to cut the pattern of the surface roots. By

making these cuts, you will encourage the new developing root system of the plant to expand

outward into the backfill soil. If the existing pattern of the roots in the container is not disturbed,

the roots frequently tend to grow in the same circular pattern established in the container. The

developing root system could strangle itself and cause the plant to decline after a few growing

seasons.

B. Safety Equipment

Always use the appropriate safety equipment during preparation and maintenance of private

garden like boots/Protective footwear, eye protection as well as hearing protection. Furthermore,

things should not be forgettable during any garden operation are the following

a) Always wear cut resistant gloves when working in facilities.

b) Wear a safety vest when working near traffic or in parking lots.

c) Wear a hard hat when cutting branches overhead.

d) A first aid kit should be available to workers in case they are injured on the job.



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e) Use a rake to gather leaves, trash, etc. from the facility.

f) Use a grabber rather than hands to pick up trash whenever possible

C. Planting techniques for shrub and tree crops (fruits, palms, and ornamental crops)

a) Planting of ornamental tree and shrub crops are usually carried out at the beginning of

rainy season.

b) Holes should be dug a head of planting as designed in the layout and this size should be

large enough to accommodate the roots of the planting materials.

c) Topsoil and sub soil should be placed separately and refill the hole with 50% top soil and

50% well-rotted manure

d) Bare rooted seedlings should be kept cool and roots must be kept moist and protect from

the sun

e) There must be close management such as watering disease and pest control for the newly

planted crops during the first year of planting.

D. Planting techniques for herbaceous crops (vegetables and other herbaceous crops)

a) Vegetables and other herbaceous crops can be propagated either by direct sowing and

transplanting methods.

i. Direct sowing: Sowed either by broadcasting or by seed drilling methods. In the case of

broadcasting method seeds are spread over the prepared land by throwing small

quantities of the seeds into the air close to the surface of the prepared land and the

method is the normal practice in sowing seeds of most leafy vegetables such as

Celosia, Amaranthus Corchorus. Whereas, seed drilling method is used for planting

small seeded vegetables in rows and to do so, shallow furrows are made at the

spacing recommended for the crop and the seed drilled along the furrows. This

method can also be used for some leafy vegetables such as Celosia, Amaranthus, and

Corchorus.

ii. Transplanting method: First their seedlings are raised in the nursery for a required

period of time before they are transplanted on the field. Seedlings are transplanted in

the morning or in the evening to avoid transplanting shock. For instance; tomato,

pepper, cabbage, eggplant, garden egg is planted by using transplanting method.



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Transplanting Techniques are clearing of site, removal of trash by burning,

preparation of bed, seedling sowing, watering and erecting of permanent supports for

shading.

2.1.7. Medicinal and Aromatic plants in DUG

Medicinal & Aromatic Plants (MAPs) are botanical raw materials (also known as herbal drugs)

that are primarily used for therapeutic, aromatic and/or culinary purposes as components of

cosmetics, medicinal products, health foods and other natural health products. They are also the

starting materials for value-added processed natural ingredients such as essential oils, dry and

liquid extracts and oleo-resins. There is a clear industrial demand for these natural products. In

addition, traditional health care practitioners, traditional healers and consumers at the household

level have all contributed to the demand for herbal medicinal products. Finished products made

from medicinal and aromatic plants are increasingly prescribed and bought over the counter.

The collection, use and trade of, as well as basic knowledge about MAPs are probably as old as

mankind, and remained an integral part of the culture of many people. A large segment of the

Ethiopian population (over 80% of the human population) relies on the use of traditional

medication to treat various ailments. Since time immemorial, these products have made a

significant contribution to human well-being.

A. Some of the economic importance of MAPs can be summarized as:

a) Household treatments (herbal medicine)

b) Valuable source of income for smallholders & entrepreneurs (e.g. traditional healers)

c) Valuable source of foreign currency (at national level)

d) Basic raw materials for industrial applications

In many cases the use of botanical raw material is much cheaper than using chemical alternative

substances. For some it would be the growing recognition that natural products have fewer or

even no side effects; for others it would be their accessibility and affordable costs that would tip

the scales. With the increasing global demands for the resources available, a number of important

plant species have become scarce in areas where they were previously abundant, and subjected to



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enormous natural and anthropogenic threats. If their collection and use is not regulated, some

species may become threatened with extinction. Cultivation of MAPs is thus a feasible

diversification enterprise for many small-scale farmers as demand is high, trade opportunities are

increasing and the income generating potential is good.

In this regard, cultivation of MAPs in DUG can be considered as an alternative option in the

process of cultivating and maintaining these multi-purpose plant species. As it was confirmed

during the extensive field surveys in the urban centers of the country, the practice of growing

these plant species is a common phenomenon in most of the DUGs. Therefore, there is a need to

further establish a standard for sustainable conservation of MAPs by introducing these crops into

the cropping systems of the country (in this case by considering the species in DUG). Focus

should be given to the highly praised and endangered species. There are a vast number of MAPs

that grow in the varied agro-ecological zones of the country. The first step should thus be

selection of appropriate species that can best perform in their respective niches (agro-ecological

zones). Besides, the socio-economic and cultural values of local communities need to be taken

into account. While working on MAPs, knowledge bases from indigenous people are of utmost

importance to identify the species, their uses and management issues.

In devising management activities for MAPs, attention should be geared towards the following,

which the DUG is part.

1) Community-based management (public awareness)

2) Urgent conservation measures, both in-situ and ex-situ conservation activities

Some of the medicinal plants identified elsewhere in Ethiopia (based on researches undertaken in

different parts of the country) are listed in Appendix 5.

2.2. Physical components of private compound

Hard landscape design, including paving, enclosure and street furniture, is an important element

in defining the character of the spaces between buildings and public open spaces.

Hard landscaping works can help to:

Provide a visual link to the surroundings



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Define and enclose space, and delineate public from private space

Provide security to private areas

Distinguish between pedestrian, cycle and vehicle movement

Provide suitable play space for children (this does not apply to bed-sits, accommodation

for the elderly or for students)

Materials must be appropriate, durable and of a good quality. Careful consideration must be

given to the design of hard surfaces such as streets, squares, open spaces, paved areas, footpaths

and driveways. The textures and colors of the materials chosen must be sympathetic to the

locality and be an integral part of the design. Walls, fences, metal railings and gates used to

define spaces and their usage have a major impact on the visual character of the development.

These should be carefully selected with local distinctiveness in mind and will need to be an

integral part of the overall design concept.

2.2.1. Sculpture

Sculpture is the branch of the visual arts that operates in three dimensions. Durable sculptural

processes originally used carving (the removal of material) and modeling (the addition of

material, as clay), in stone, metal, ceramics, wood and other materials Refer part VI, number

4.7(a),UGIS, 2015.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Visual_arts

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carving

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stone

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metal

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ceramic_art

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wood



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Figure 19: Local sculpture made up of local materials in Ethiopia

Stone

Stone sculpture is an ancient activity where pieces of rough natural stone are shaped by

the controlled removal of stone. Owing to the permanence of the material, evidence can be found

that even the earliest societies indulged in some form of stone work,

Metal

Bronze and related copper alloys are the oldest and still the most popular metals

for cast metal sculptures; a cast bronze sculpture is often called simply a "bronze". Common

bronze alloys have the unusual and desirable property of expanding slightly just before they set,

thus filling the finest details of a mold. Their strength and lack of brittleness (ductility) is an

advantage when figures in action are to be created, especially when compared to

various ceramic or stone materials

Glass

Glass may be used for sculpture through a wide range of working techniques, though the use of it

for large works is a recent development. It can be carved, with considerable difficulty

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stone_sculpture

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rock_(geology)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stone_carving

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bronze

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Copper_alloy

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Casting

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sculptures

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bronze_sculpture

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ceramic

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glass



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Wood

Wood carving has been extremely widely practiced, but survives much less well than the other

main materials, being vulnerable to decay, insect damage, and fire.

A. How to make sculpture

There are many types of sculpture but they can generally be split into two: addition sculpture

where material is largely added on to create the form (clay, wax, cardboard, peppier Mache etc.)

and reduction sculpture where material is entirely taken away in order to create the form (stone,

wood, ice, etc.)

a) Method 1: Adding –on sculpture

1) Sketch your sculpture. Always draw out the sculpture you plan on making first. It

doesn't have to be a great drawing, but it should help you get an idea of where everything

goes and how the shapes will meet up. Draw the sculpture from multiple angles. You may

want to draw a more detailed sketch as well, for areas that are highly detailed.

2) Create a base: if your sculpture will have a base, it is a good idea to build that first and

build the sculpture on the base. The base will be less structurally sound if added later.

You can build a base from wood, metal, clay, stone, or any other material you want.

3) Build an armature. "Armature" is a word sculptor’s use that just means "support

structure". It's like the bones for the sculpture. It keeps pieces from breaking off and while

not every part of the sculpture will need an armature, it's important for pieces like arms or

legs, which move away from the body and are easy breaking points.

Armatures can be made out of thin or thick gauge wire, plumping pipes, PVC pipe,

lumber, sticks, and dowels.

4) Fill in the basic form. Depending on what your sculpture will be made out of, you may

want to form an under layer with a different material. This is most common when

sculpting with polymer clay. An under layer can help reduce materials cost and weight, so

consider using one.

Common materials are newspaper, tin or aluminum foil, masking or painter's tape, and

cardboard.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wood_carving



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Loosely tape or join this filler material to your armature, forming just the basic shapes of

your sculpture. You want to leave yourself room to build with your final sculpting

material, though, so don't go overboard!

5) Add in details. One the general form seems complete, start blending, carving, and

generally creating the finer details. These are items like hair, eyes, the outlines and curve

of muscles, fingers, toes, etc. Detail your sculpture until it looks fairly finalized.

6) Add in textures. The final step in the actual sculpting is to add textures to your sculpture.

This is important for creating a more realistic look, but isn't necessary if you want to work

in a different style. You can use sculpting tools to add texture or you can create your own

from household tools.

With proper tools, the general rule of thumb is that the smaller the tip, the finer the detail

that tool is meant to create. Looped tools are for scraping off clay and any cutting edge is

for pretty much what you would think it would be for.

You can fashion your own tools from tin foil balls, black peppercorns, toothbrushes,

toothpicks, necklace chains, ball bearings, combs, sewing or knitting needles, knives, etc.

7) Cure your sculpture. You will need to bake your sculpture or allow it to dry, whichever

is appropriate for the material you chose. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for your

material.

8) Paint your sculpture. If you want your sculpture to be painted or colored, do so after

baking. You may need to use special paints, depending on the material you chose.

Painting polymer clay, for example, requires model enamel paint.

9) Mix media. You can create extra interest for your sculpture by mixing media. This can

make it seem more real or add interesting color and texture to a piece. Consider things

like using real fabric for clothing, or using fake or real hair instead of sculpting the hair.

b) Method 2 : Reduction Sculpture

1) Make a sculpture sketch. Start by making clay, wax, or other fast version of your

sculpture. This will be used as a "sketch". You will take measurements from it and use

those to carve the stone or other sculpting material.

2) Carve the basic form. You can take basic measurements from you sculpture and mark

the stone or wood where you know it will need to be cut. For example, if you know your

sculpture isn't going to be more than 14 inches (35.6 cm) high, you can cut away all



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material above 15 inches (38.1 cm). Leave some room for movement but certainly carve

out the basic shape of your sculpture.

3) Use a pointing machine. Using a pointing machine or other measuring device, begin to

measure your sculpture "sketch" and make the same locations and depths on your stone

or wood.

4) Carve in the details. Using tools appropriate for your material begin to chip away at the

material and even out the points that you made using the pointing machine.

5) Sand down your sculpture. Using gradually finer and finer sandpaper, sand down your

sculpture until it is as smooth as you want it to be.

6) Add any final extra details that you want

2.2.2. Fountain

Basic steps to create a unique, custom-made fountain

A. Step 1. Plan your fountain. Decide where you want to place your fountain, how large you

want it to be and how you want it to look. These factors will all influence what materials you

will need.

a) The fountain will be composed of three main elements: a water reservoir, a water pump

and a design feature.

b) The location must have easy access to an electrical outlet or the ability to run an

unobtrusive extension cord to power the pump. Refer part VII, number 4.3.2(b), UGIS,

2015.

B. Step 2. Gather the supplies.

a) A Reservoir. This can be any type of water-tight container, such as a plastic tub or even

plastic sheeting lining your reservoir hole if building underground. If building above

ground, consider making the reservoir part of the design, such as half a wine barrel, as

long as it will hold water.

b) A Water pump. Pumps can be purchased from most home improvement or landscape

supply stores. You will need a pump with enough power (measured in gallons per second)

to push the water up to the fountainhead..

c) Pipes and tubing. The pipes or tubing will deliver the water from the reservoir to the

fountainhead. Many water pumps will come with tubing, but if not, or if you need



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something specific for your design (such as copper pipe), you will need to purchase it

separately. Rubber tubing will be the easiest to work with.

d) Design features. These elements will depend entirely on your design, such as river stones

or a sculpted fountainhead. If your fountainhead of choice does not already have a hole,

you may need to drill one.

C. Step 3. Assemble the fountain parts

a) If building below ground, dig a hole that will fit the water reservoir snugly. Be sure to leave 2

inches (5 cm) of drainage gravel beneath the reservoir. If you wish to hide the power cord,

you will need to dig a separate trench out from the reservoir hole.

b) Fit the pump in the reservoir before adding water. Ensure all tubing and power connections fit

and function properly.

c) Add your design elements. The water pump should remain accessible for adjustment, repair

and cleaning, either by leaving an opening or door, or with easy disassembly.

d) Fill the fountain with enough clean water to fully submerge the water pump and keep it

submerged while in operation when water will be cycling through the upper part of the

fountain.

Figure 20: Garden fountain

D. Step 4. Adjust water flow

Turn on water pump (adjusting pressure if needed) and arrange the fountain's design elements to

ensure the water returns to the reservoir. The look and sound of the fountain can also be adjusted

this way by tweaking the angle of the fountainhead and any obstacles in the path of the water

flow.

E. Step 5. Hide any rough spots or visible mechanisms with design features such as stones or

plants. Refer part VI, number 4.7(b & c), UGIS, 2015.



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2.2.3. Shade

A. The following methods can be used to provide a cool place when it is hot:

a) Design the shaded space to capture and channel breezes. For example, orientate openings

towards incoming breezes.

b) Provide shade to the openings of shade structures. For example, when putting up a

marquee, place it so a nearby tree will shade the entrance.

c) Add eaves to the design of built shade. This will cool the space immediately outside the

shade structure, which will help the shaded area to be cooler.

d) Prevent surfaces such as sand or concrete from heating up, as this can cause the air

surrounding these surfaces to become hotter, which may make a nearby shade structure

hotter.

e) Shade the surface, change it or select a surface that does not get too hot.

B. What is quality shade?

Well-designed and correctly positioned shade provides protection from UV radiation where it is

needed, at the right time of day and at the right time of year.

a) Well-designed shade ensures that:

1) The outdoor space is comfortable to use in all seasons



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2) A barrier protects users from direct and indirect sources of UV radiation

3) The shade is attractive, practical and environmentally friendly.

2.2.4. Fences

Fences provide enclosure, create privacy and can alter the microclimate of a site. The style and

materials of fencing can frame a building, integrate a development into the landscape and provide

an intimidating or welcoming character. Fences provide definition between public and private

spaces and are an integral component of landscaping. The following points should be considered

when selecting fences: Refer part VI, number 4.6(a-d), UGIS, 2015.

a) Height, scale, materials and detailing should reflect the site, adjacent properties,

streetscape, and architectural character of houses or surrounding buildings.

b) Height is suggested at typically no higher than 1.2 meters within 4 meters of a street and

have either flat wide boards and are decoratively cut or square pickets.

c) Metal fences‐ with or without piers should be 1.2 meters in height and can range from

simple, vertical balusters to very ornate geometries. Piers should be a minimum of 450

mm wide, not to exceed 915 mm in width.

2.2.5. Walls, Piers, Steps

a) Design retaining walls to be consistent with the proposed building (repeat those on new

building’s exterior and nearby existing facades).and adjacent properties.

b) Walls shall be between 610 mm and 1.2 meters. These walls enclose either a planting

edge or simply the front lawn.

c) Walls should turn to follow the sidewalk as an edging and create the low piers that border

the front steps to the porch.

d) Piers and walls can be capped with stone, brick, shaped brick, cut brick or dressed coping

stone 38 mm to 76 mm thick. The cap may overhang the wall.

e) Walls and piers should be constructed of concrete, natural stone, brick, or decorative

block and be min. 203 mm wide.



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f) Piers shall be a minimum of 450 mm wide, not to exceed 914 mm in width. Poured

concrete retaining walls may have a smooth or decorative finish. Treated timber retaining

walls are not permitted.

If there is significant grade change above 1.0 meter, there should be two sets of steps with 2

landings. Steps may be brick, stone, slate, concrete pavers, concrete, or stamped colored

concrete. Retaining walls should be stepped to reduce individual heights. Refer part VI, number

4.6(a-d), UGIS, 2015.

2.2.6. Sidewalk & Driveway Pavement Surfaces

Many new permeable versions of traditional impervious paving products are available that allow

water to soak in rather than run off, thereby reducing the quantity of rainwater runoff. In the

process, the porous material filters runoff as well as allowing it to infiltrate the soil beneath.

Sidewalks, driveways, pathways, parking areas, and patios should be designed and constructed

with permeability.

The most common types of permeable pavement include pervious/permeable concrete, porous

asphalt and open-grid pavers. Permeable pavement typically cost more per square foot than the

impervious counterparts. However, the overall environmental benefits (water quality, reduction

in flooding and erosion) can benefit everyone and the need for more expensive rainwater

infrastructure can be avoided. Permeable pavement, especially open-grid pavers, is also useful

around trees to allow water and air to reach the tree roots. Sidewalks may range a minimum

width of 1.2 meters from front of curb or 1.2 meters in width on private property Refer part VII,

number 4.3.2(a), UGIS, 2015.

2.2.7. Lighting

Lighting of buildings, houses and their surroundings should accomplish either the illumination of

streets, parking lots, and walkways, or the subtle illumination of specific details of the buildings

and landscaping.



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a) Lighting shall be compatible with the scale of buildings and should not exceed 4.6

metres in height or not higher than the elevation of the nearest building, whichever is

lesser.

b) The placement of the lighting fixtures should match the fixtures attached to the nearest

building and should be compatible with the design of the building and should be as

unobtrusive as possible.

c) Freestanding light fixtures for private property are encouraged to be placed near the front

property line adjacent to driveway or front walkway.

d) Freestanding lights shall match light fixtures on house porch or sidelights on the house

entrance.

e) Light fixtures may also have a decorative feature to accent the house and landscape, such

as location for house number, planter, or mailbox.

f) During lighting we have to consider the age of occupants and the presence of disabilities.

Our threshold for visual perception increases with age; the elderly require far more light

to safely navigate a property than do younger people. They may also be less able to see

contrast in brightness, putting them at risk for missing steps or tripping on field stones.

g) Target areas include pathways, steps, pools, water features, tripping hazards should be

considered during lighting.

h) Diffusion light sources are most commonly used in garden lighting like, PAR38 halogen

reflector bulb, MR16 or 12- volt (automotive) halogen bulb, halogen bulbs in reflector

and metal halide bulbs

i) Higher wattage, wide beam bulbs are often used for general illumination of major shrub

borders and spreading trees

1) A low voltage spread light provides pool of light around the path or low

planting. Refer part VI, number 4.3(a-e), UGIS, 2015.

2.3. Private garden Maintenance

2.3.1. Weeding

Weeds are plants growing in places where they are not wanted and thus, may compute for



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resources with the intentionally installed plants in the garden. Therefore, removal of unwanted

vegetation has to be conducted so as to reduce competition and promote the growth of the

purposely planted plants in the garden.

Figure 21: Manual weed control (picture taken from Hawassa city)

Although there are different methods of weeding, manual weeding using simple hand tools or a

chainsaw is appropriate. The best time to tackle weeding chores is right after irrigating or a

rainfall. It is easiest to pull or dig weeds out in their entirety when the ground is soft. After weeds

are pulled or dug out, remove them entirely from the garden. Some weeds can grow back or go to

seed if left where they are. Keep weeds out of the compost pile unless able to maintain heat high

enough to kill any weed seeds. Most home compost piles do not get that hot. Weeds compete

with desirable plants for light, nutrients, water, and space. Weeds can also harbor insect and

disease pests that can spread to desirable plants of the garden and may pose a health hazard to

humans. Refer part VI, number 3(q), UGIS, 2015

a) Cultural Weed Control

The best strategies of this method of weed controlling in the landscape garden include mulching,

hand-pulling, using tools such as the hoe and rototiller, and preventing existing weeds from

going to seed.

Mulching around plants will go a long way toward reducing the ability of weeds to cause

problems. Organic mulches tend to cool the soil, as well as conserve soil moisture and reduce

weed germination. Materials such as chipped or shredded bark, hay, grass clippings, or pine



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needles should be applied 2-4 inches deep and replenished as needed. Grass clippings treated

with pesticide, especially herbicide, should not be used. Plastic mulch tends to warm the soil and

is best used on warm-season vegetables such as tomatoes, melons, squash, and peppers. Fabric

weed barriers have been useful for reducing weed growth in permanent landscape plantings.

b) Chemical Weed Control

In some situations, chemical weed control (herbicides) may be useful to prevent or eradicate

certain weeds. Some herbicides work only to prevent weed seeds from germinating, while others

must be applied after the weeds are already growing. Some herbicides are labeled for use on

selected vegetable crops, while some can only be used on certain ornamental plants.

1) Pre-emergence, selective herbicides

This should be applied to the soil prior to weed seed germination and work best if mixed

in to the upper 1-2 inches of soil or watered in. Used to kill annual grass and broad-

leaved weed seedlings as they germinate, but it will not kill emerged weeds.

Examples: DCPA (Dacthal, Weed & Grass Preventer, and many others), trifluralin

(Preen, Treflan, and many others), bensulide (Betasan, Prefar, Squelch). dichlobenil

(Casoron). EPTC (Eptam), simizine (Princep), oryzalin (Surflan).These herbicides may

be applied to tree, shrub, and flower beds, and some fruit & vegetable crops.

2) Post-emergence, Selective Herbicides

In this case the herbicide should be applied after weeds are already up and growing.

They can present a problem by drifting onto non-target plants. Examples for broad-

leaved weed control, particularly in lawn and in brush-killers: 2, 4-D and MCPP.

Examples for grass weed control: fluazifop-butyl, Fusilade and sethoxydim. Uses may

include lawn, tree, shrub, and flower beds, and some fruit crops.

3) Non-selective, post-emergence herbicides

Applied after weeds are already up and growing. These to apply in this case are

circulared within the weed plant, giving a better chance of killing the roots of perennial

weeds and danger of drift to non-target plants. Some root uptake is possible, but

herbicide is generally applied to foliage. Examples: glyphosate, triclpy and many other.

Uses may include tree, shrub, and flower beds, walks, patios, and driveways.



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2.3.2. Mulching

Mulching is generally used to improve the soil around plants, but it also gives a neat, tidy

appearance to the garden and can reduce the amount of time spent on tasks such as watering and

weeding. Mulches help soil retain moisture in summer, prevent weeds from growing and protect

the roots of plants in winter.

Mulches are loose coverings or sheets of material placed on the surface of cultivated soil.

Mulches can be applied to bare soil or to cover the surface of compost in containers. Mulches can

be split into two main groups; biodegradable and non-biodegradable. Refer part VI, number 3(q),

UGIS, 2015

a) Depending on the type of mulch used, there are many benefits of mulching including:

1) Help soils retain moisture in summer

2) Suppress weeds

3) Improve soil texture

4) Deter some pests

5) Protect plant roots from extreme temperatures

6) Encourage beneficial soil organisms

7) Provide a barrier for edible crops coming into contact with soil

8) Give a decorative finish

Mulches can be categorized as biodegradable mulches and non-biodegradable

1) Biodegradable mulches

These break down gradually to release nutrients into the soil and help improve its structure.

Layers will need replacing when the material has fully rotted down. Among the best materials are

leaf mould, garden compost, wood chippings, and rotted manure.

2) Non-biodegradable

Non-biodegradable mulches do not boost the fertility or structure of the soil, but they do suppress

weeds, conserve moisture and some have added advantage of looking decorative. Slate, shingle,



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pebbles, gravel, stone chippings and other decorative aggregates are often used as mulch. Sea

shells, tumbled glass and similar materials can be used on the surface of containers.

i. When mulch should be applied?

Mulches are best applied from mid- to late spring and autumn, when the soil is moist and warm.

It is best to avoid applying mulches in winter and early spring as the soil is too cold, and in

summer, when it will be dry. They can be applied around new plantings or to established beds

and specimen plants.

ii) Method of mulch application

Beds and borders can be mulched entirely, taking care not to smother low growing plants or to

pile mulches up against the stems of woody plants.

a) To be effective, biodegradable mulches need to be 5cm-7.5cm thick

b) Lay mulches over moist soil, after removing weeds, including their roots, when the soil is

not frozen

c) When creating new beds, planting through mulch sheets is effective

d) Single trees and specimen shrubs are best mulched to the radius of the canopy

iii) Problems associated with mulching

If laid correctly there is generally no problem with mulches. However, if they are in direct

contact with the stems of trees or specimen shrubs they can cause the stem to soften, making it

vulnerable to diseases. Depending on the quality of the material there is a possibility of

introducing weeds, pests and diseases to the garden and, with woodchips there is a slight risk of

introducing fungus. Once mulch has added to the soil it will need to apply extra water to reach

the roots of the plants beneath.

There is no need to remove mulches to apply fertilizers. Fertilizers are spread over mulches in

late winter and are washed down to plant roots by rain. A buildup of mulch can produce a hard

layer, which is difficult for water to penetrate. Avoid this by only replacing mulch when it has

completely rotted away.

https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile.aspx?PID=304



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2.3.3. Watering and water sources for private garden

It is well known that too little water can cause plants to wilt and even die. But over-watering can

produce similar problems as the roots rot (a problem to which young plants in pots are very

prone). In addition, stress caused by irregular watering can cause some plants to bolt yielding a

very poor crop. Thus, supplying the right amount of water is essential to ensuring that producing

a bountiful harvest of fruit and vegetables from the garden. Refer part VI, number 10.3 (a),

UGIS, 2015.

a) Sources of water

The water needed to supply an irrigation scheme is taken from a water source. The most common

sources of water for irrigation include rivers, reservoirs and lakes, and groundwater.

1) Tapping water from river

Water for irrigation has to be carried from the river, the reservoir, the lake or the groundwater to

the field. This can be done in two different ways:

i.Making use of gravity; a simple gravity system can only be used if the water level of the river

or reservoir is higher than the level of the site in the irrigation scheme;

ii.Using a pump to lift the water above ground level and then let it flow to the fields.

2) Direct river diversion

Irrigation is supplied with water that is directly diverted from the river without any structures,

dams or other devices. The off take canal is directly excavated through the river bank and no gate

is provided. Consequently, there is no control of the discharge into the canal. The diverted

discharge depends on the water level in the river. That means the discharge will be high during

periods of high water and low during periods with a low water level.

3) River diversion using a weir

During periods of high river discharges, water will flow over the weir. The water level upstream

of the weir will show little variation during the year, and it will remain higher during the dry

season than it would without the weir.



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Since the water level upstream of the weir is higher than it would normally be, the off take

structure can be closer to the irrigation area. Consequently, the main irrigation canal can be

shorter.

i) Pumping from a river

Cost of pumping water increases with the size of the scheme. The cost of a weir, however,

depends largely on the size of the river and only partly on the size of the scheme. Therefore,

pumping is often used to irrigate small areas whose sources of water are larger rivers. Also, this

may be a much less expensive solution than building a weir. Pumping is essential if irrigation by

gravity is not possible.

b) Tapping water from lakes and reservoir

i. Water tapping from a reservoir

Water stored in a valley usually has a higher level than the valley bottom downstream of the

dam. Because of this difference in level, the valley can be irrigated by a gravity system. Water

can be taken from the reservoir via a concrete or steel pipe. This pipe connects the reservoir to an

irrigation canal downstream. A valve is usually located on the upstream end of the pipe to control

the discharge water into the canal.

ii. Pumping from a lake or reservoir

The fields located around the reservoir upstream of a dam or surrounding a natural lake are

higher than the reservoir or lake's water table. Irrigation here will only be possible with the help

of pumps. Pumps installed at reservoirs and lakes must be able to handle these fluctuations,

which are not only vertical, but which are even more pronounced horizontally, because the water

recedes back to the lowest parts of the reservoir.

A dead branch of a river can also be made to function as a reservoir. The branch is filled with

water during the wet season and closed off during the dry season so that the stored water may be

used. Due to the low water level, pumps will normally be needed to irrigate fields from such a

reservoir.



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iii) Ground water

Groundwater is an important source of irrigation water, especially for small-scale irrigation

projects. Because groundwater is only available below ground level, it must be lifted, or pumped.

Pumping groundwater from wells is a well-known method of utilizing groundwater.

iv) Pumping from wells

To tap groundwater, a well must be dug deeper than the groundwater level. The groundwater

then seeps through the pores of the surrounding soil or porous rock into the well until the level of

water in the well is the same as the level of the groundwater.

A. Considerations of watering

a) Understanding the soil

1) Loam soil: is the ideal soil for water retention and plant growth because it holds

water and drains well. This type of soil needs deeply watering but infrequently.

2) Clay soil: feels sticky, holds moisture for long periods, but can become

compacted and impervious and it absorbs water slowly. So it is easy to waste

water that will run off the surface rather than penetrate to the root zone. Water it

deeply at long intervals, watering it slowly, so that the water can soak in.

3) Sandy soil: feels gritty, is thirsty and will take in a lot of water but dries out

quickly. Water can be wasted because it just drains away or because the soil is

water repellent. If the soil is sandy it should be applied smaller amounts of water

more often.

B. Improving the soil

The key to saving water is to improve the soil. Add organic matter to improve both sandy and

clay soil. Types of organic matter include, compost, green manure, animal manure, grass

clippings and composted horticulture bark. Lime will improve clay soil and gypsum works on

some clay soils. Apply a mulch thickly (7cm) to wet soil; keep it away from the base of trunks

and stems; reapply regularly, loosen regularly to ensure water penetration.

C.Understanding the plants

The rate at which plants lose water through transpiration varies with the type of plant and



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location. Where possible choose low water use plants suited to a conditions and group plants

with similar water needs so it can possible to water different parts of the garden differently,

whether by hand or with separate irrigation zones. It is best to give trees, shrubs, many perennials

and turf thorough soakings rather than light surface watering to encourage deeper roots. Deep

rooted warm season turf can survive on relatively infrequent watering. Annuals, vegetables and

plants in pots may need shorter, more frequent watering.

1) Stage of plants growth and water requirement

The plants in the garden need different levels of water depending on their stages of growth, their

position in the garden, the soil type, weather conditions and the variety. For example if a plants

grow on a sandy soil (which does not hold water) it may need to water every day in the height of

summer and incorporate organic matter such as compost to aid moisture retention. On the other

hand, crops grown on clay soils (which are more moisture retentive) need watering less often.

However, the addition of organic matter will help break up heavy clay soils so they do not

become waterlogged in heavy rains.

Generally, plants need watering more often if they are grown under cover (such as greenhouse)

or in a container where there is less soil to absorb moisture). Moreover, consider the position of

the plants growing in the garden. In full sunlight, water from the soil’s surface will evaporate

more quickly than in the shade.

Many vegetables need extra water when in flower or when fruiting. For example legumes (such

as beans and peas), sweet potatoes and sweet corn require more water when in flower. Tomatoes

and squash plants benefit from extra water when their fruit is developing. Peas and beans will

develop heavier pods if watered regularly after flowering but too much water early on will result

in extra leafy growth and fewer flowers and fruit. Leafy greens and root vegetables require

regular watering throughout their growth.

2) Amount of water

Over-watering of plants can create the perfect conditions for disease to thrive and may also

encourage slugs. If water runs off the soil, it can wash away valuable nutrients. Root systems will



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not develop properly; for example, the plants will develop weak, shallow root systems which are

less resistant to drought. If plants are allowed to sit in water, they will be starved of oxygen.

Avoid over-watering plants by checking the soil’s moisture level below the surface before

watering. If plants are growing in containers, ensure adequate drainage by placing gravel in the

base to allow excess water to drain away.

Seedlings require particular care. The soil or compost should be moist but not wet. When starting

seeds off, water them with a fine mist to avoid saturating the compost or washing the seeds away.

Once the seedlings are growing well, a good technique to use is to dip the pot into a tray of water

rather than watering from above. The water should not come above half way up the pot and after

a short time; it can be removed, drained well and returned to its place.

3) Rescuing a wilted plant

If plants are wilting, it is likely to be due to too much, or too little, water. If the soil is dry above

and below the surface, water immediately regardless of the time of day and, if possible, shade the

plant from the sun or if the plants grow in containers, move them into a shady position.

If the wilting is due to too much water, check to see if the plant is sitting in water (ensure water

can drain away from the base if growing in a container). If the soil is waterlogged, puncture the

soil to aid drainage.

2.3.4. Fertilization

Fertilizer application can improve tree and shrub growth and can help them tolerate stresses like

winter damage, drought, or pests but only if the elements applied are lacking in the soil. Fertilizer

is not a miracle cure and can actually burn roots and foliage if applied too heavily.

A.Types of fertilizer

Gardens plant may be grown using either organic or inorganic fertilizers. Plants do not

differentiate between nutrients from organic and chemical fertilizers; the form absorbed by plant

roots from both sources is identical.



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The supplemental nutrients usually needed by plants growing in native soils are nitrogen (N),

iron (Fe), and sometimes phosphorus (P). Potassium (K) and minor elements are usually found in

adequate supply in native soils.

Be sure any fertilizer used does not contain weed killers. Fertilizer-herbicide combinations are

often sold for use on lawns but contain herbicides that can and do damage trees and shrubs.

Soluble, quick-release fertilizers should be applied as the root system will quickly take up the

nutrients. Slow-release fertilizers can be applied almost any time, including from late fall to early

spring. The nutrients in these fertilizers are much more slowly available, making application

timing less critical.

a) Organic fertilizers

1) are made from plants and/or animals or their byproducts

2) Common organic fertilizers include manure, etc.

3) Have low nutrient contents and generally are slower acting than inorganic types.

Plants can use chemical fertilizers as soon as they are applied. Soil bacteria and fungi must act on

most organic nutrient sources to change them into a usable form. Thus, if organic fertilizers apply

to the garden plants, it may need to add a small amount of a source of more readily available

nitrogen early in the season to ensure adequate plant nutrition until the organic sources become

available to plants.

b) Methods of applying fertilizer

Regardless of the method to use, keep the following facts in mind:

1) The nitrogen in chemical fertilizers is highly water-soluble and is carried to the roots by

irrigation and rain. Thus, do not need to mix these materials into the soil, but water the

garden if rain does not fall within a day after applying them.

2) Organic sources of nitrogen are most accessible to plants if mixed into the top 2–3 inches

of soil.

3) Phosphate moves slowly in the soil. It will obtain best results by banding phosphate

containing fertilizer 2 inches below the seed by tilling it into the soil during spring

preparation.



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4) Apply potassium fertilizers into the soil using the banding or broadcast methods. Do not

allow potassium fertilizers to contact plant roots.

i. Broadcast

Scatter the material uniformly over the surface. If an application method is not mentioned,

broadcasting is implied.

ii. Band

Place the fertilizer in a trench about 3 inches deep. The corner of a hoe works well to make the

trench. Sow seeds 1.5-2 inches above and to the side of the fertilizer. The plant roots quickly

absorb the nutrients and grow rapidly.

iii. Side-dress

Scatter the fertilizer material close to growing plants. Keep fertilizer granules off leaves to

prevent burning. Nitrogen is very soluble and need not be mixed with the soil. A fertilizer blend

containing nitrogen, phosphate, and potash should be lightly scratched in, but take care to avoid

damaging plant roots. Apply irrigation so the plants can absorb the nutrients.

2.3.5. Arboricultural operations

A. Pruning ornamental garden trees and shrubs

Pruning is the act of cutting or removing tree branches. The pruning needs of a tree vary by

species and growth habit. Conifers require less pruning and training than deciduous or

broadleaved trees, and fruit trees are primarily pruned to increase fruit production. There are

different reasons to prune tree and shrubs of private garden.

Trees and shrubs should be examined annually for pruning requirements. Too often, pruning is

ignored for several years and thus, some trees and most shrubs become overgrown and often

weak, making drastic pruning is necessity to bring the plant back to usefulness. To prune

successfully,

a) Know the reason to prune

b) Be aware the appropriate time of pruning

c) Follow proper techniques using proper tools: why, when, and how.



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1) Reason to prune

Pruning is necessary to maintain a healthy, vigorous tree or shrub. Specifically, pruning is

practiced to:

i. Maintain or reduce plant size

Pruning can prevent a plant from overgrowing its space in the landscape and eliminates the need

for drastic cutting of crowded, overgrown plants. It can allow for growth of plants under or

adjacent to the pruned plant. It can also serve to reduce leaf area on newly planted trees and

shrubs. This promotes survival through transplanting and consequent root loss.

ii. Prune to avoid undesirable growth

Pruning can encourage plant vigor through the removal of weak, overcrowded growth. Such

thinning often improves the visual balance or symmetry of the plant.

iii. Prune to promote plant health

Remove dead or dying branches injured by disease, severe insect infestation, animals,

storms, or other adverse mechanical damage.

Remove branches that rub together.

Remove branch stubs

iv. Prune to maintain the intended purposes of trees/shrubs

Encouraging flower and fruit development

Maintaining a dense hedge

Maintaining a desired plant form or special garden forms

Removal of the current year’s old, faded flowers and fruit clusters will promote flower buds for

the following season.

v. Safety pruning

Pruning can minimize the hazard of limbs interfering with power lines or overgrowing structures.

Remove dead branches

Have hazardous trees taken down



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Prune out weak or narrow-angled tree branches that overhang homes, parking areas, and

sidewalks – anyplace falling limbs could injure people or damage property

vi. Prune to improve trees/shrub appearance

Appearance in the landscape is essential to the plants usefulness. For most landscapes, a plant's

natural form is best. Avoid shearing shrubs into tight geometrical forms that can adversely affect

flowering unless it needs to be confined or trained for a specific purpose. When plants are

properly pruned, it is difficult to see that they have been pruned! Prune to:

Control plant size and shape

Keep shrubby evergreens well-proportioned and dense

Remove unwanted branches, waterspouts, suckers, and undesirable fruiting structures that

detract from plant appearance

B.pruning time of garden tree/shrubs for specific purpose

Timing of pruning is based on the flowering, fruiting, or growth habits of a plant, its tendency to

bleed and the fact that pruning usually stimulates a flush of re-growth. Most plants can be pruned

at almost any time of year without jeopardizing basic survival. However, it is preferable to prune

specific plants at specific points in the year.

a) Pruning according to season of bloom

Trees and shrubs that flower before the end of June should be pruned immediately after

flowering. Flower buds develop during the previous season’s growth, thus, the flowers for the

current year’s bloom developed last year and overwintered in the bud. If pruned before spring

flowering, the flower buds will be removed, thus eliminating flowering.

Other trees and shrubs, those which flower after the end of June, should be pruned in winter or

early spring before new growth starts. These plants develop flower buds during the spring of the

flowering season. Certain plants may be lightly pruned both before and after flowering. This

often increases flower and fruit production, and several may produce a second bloom during the

year.

1) Fruit trees/shrubs pruning

Shrubs or trees that are prized for their fruit should be pruned after the fruit harvested. Although



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they may flower early in the season, the fruit should be allowed to develop. After the fruit has

lost its appeal, then prune.

2) Pruning coniferous evergreen trees/shrubs

To promote a compact plant, ornamental coniferous evergreens trees/shrubs can be pruned in late

spring as the new branches elongate, but before they become stiff. Otherwise, they, like

broadleaved evergreens, can be pruned whenever the wood is not frozen. However, coniferous

types will generally not develop new shoots on older wood, so it is not advisable to cut back

beyond the living foliage portion of the branches

b) Pruning hedges

After the initial pruning at planting, hedges need to be pruned often. Once the hedge reaches the

desired height, prune the new growth back whenever it grows another 6 to 8 inches. Prune to

within 2 inches of the last pruning. Hedges may be pruned twice a year, in spring and again in

mid-summer, to keep them dense and attractive. Prune hedges so they are wider at the base than

at the top, to allow all parts to receive sunlight and prevent legginess. Refer part VI, number

10.4(a-h), UGIS, 2015.

c) Pruning technique

At the time of cutting a large branch greater than one inch in diameter, use the 3-cut method to

reduce the weight of the branch. This will avoid splitting the branch and stripping bark.

Step 1: Make an undercut about 12 inches from the trunk.

Step 2: Make a top cut farther out on the limb.

Step 3: Remove the stub with final cut; do not cut flush against the trunk; leave the collar



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Figure 22: Tree pruning techniques

d) Pruning practices harm trees

i. Target cut and Flush cut

Correct: Target cuts leave the branch collar intact, so the tree tissue can grow over a

wound and seal it.

Wrong: Flush cuts create a large wound around the branch collar, which is hard for the

tree to seal or compartmentalize.

ii. Topping and tipping

It is pruning practices that harm trees and should not be used. It is the pruning of large upright

branches between nodes, is sometimes done to reduce the height of a tree. Epicormic is obvious

to be developed due to this type of tree pruning.

Tipping

The consequences of tipping practice on trees are poor quality of tree in terms of health and

shape. It is the practice of cutting lateral branches between nodes to reduce crown width. This

practice results in the development of epicormic sprouts or in the death of the cut branch back to

the next lateral branch below. These epicormic sprouts are weakly attached to the stem and

eventually will be supported by a decaying branch.

e) General rules of tree pruning

1) Prune all weak, diseased, dead and crossing branches



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2) Use proper pruning techniques and maintain the branch collar

3) Keep the main leader, otherwise the tree will lose its form and shape

4) Do not remove more than one-third of the tree’s original crown

5) Do not use a chain saw unless well trained and experienced

6) Wear Personal protective materials — hard hat, gloves, safety glasses

7) Know the limits and the limits of the tools

f) Caution while tree pruning

Do not over prune a tree.

During the process, step back and examine the tree from all viewpoints.

Do not remove more than 25% of the tree canopy each year.

1) Do not remove more than 25% of the foliage on a branch or limb each year

2) This will stress the tree and it may produce weakly attached branches

Do not cut back to a branch that is less than 1/3 or 1/2 the size of the main branch.

3) It is important to selectively remove branches throughout the tree; not just the

lowest branches which can be accessible. This can cause a tall spindly tree to

form, and it can also reduce trunk flare and girth of the tree.

4) Lower branches help keep the vigor in the lower portion of the tree and this is

especially important in conifer

g) Types of pruning

1) Crown thinning

Crown thinning is the selectively removing branches on young trees throughout the crown. This

promotes better form and health by increasing light penetration and air movement. Strong

emphasis is on removing weak branches. This type of pruning is not recommended to overdo on

mature trees.

2) Crown raising

This type of pruning is the removing of lower branches on developing or mature trees to allow

more clearance above lawns, sidewalks, streets, etc.

3) Crown reduction



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Crown reduction is removing larger branches at the top of the tree to reduce its height. When

done properly, crown reduction pruning is different from topping because branches are removed

immediately above lateral branches, leaving no stubs. Crown reduction is the least desirable

pruning practice. It should be done only when absolutely necessary.

4) Crown Cleaning

It is the selective removal of dead, dying and disease wood from the crown.

3.3.6. Shaping garden shrubs

At the time of shaping shrubs, achieve optimum results by honoring their natural habit. Use

restraint. Respect the fact that each shrub is genetically programmed for a certain size, profile,

and branching pattern. Make cuts that support these features and preserve the essential character

of the plant. Lollipop shapes look unattractive on the front lawn. Leave the highly stylized

pruning- topiary, pollarding, and bonsai.

3) Method of shaping

Step 1: The first step is to cut back excessively long branches. Clip them off where a leaf

emerges back on the stem near the main mass of foliage. Avoid making them all identical

lengths.

Step 2: Reach deep within the dense tangle of branches, clip off particularly large or twiggy ones

to the point where they join a main branch.

Step 3: Once its general shape is established, give the shrub a final once-over. Be sure no

branches rub against walls or tangle in nearby plants.

2.3.7. Root pruning techniques

Root pruning is the selective removal of tree roots. It is done when conflicts between tree roots

and existing infrastructure (such as sidewalks and driveways) or underground utilities (such as

water or sewer lines) have been identified. Root pruning may be necessary to repair damaged

hardscape, reduce the potential hazards, or correct girdling roots.



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Excavate the root zone using an air-spade and/or by hand digging prior to root pruning. This

allows for exposure of the roots for easy identification and clean cuts. Make all cuts with a clean,

sharp saw. In some cases, a stump grinder may be used to cleanly cut roots. Root pruning cuts

should not be made with an axe, a back-hoe bucket, or ditch excavating machine. These tools

tend to shatter and splinter roots, promoting decay and decline. After removing the offending

roots, add coarse gravel as a base for a new sidewalk or pavers. Determine the presence of

girdling roots and remove if necessary. Ideally, all root pruning cuts should be at least a distance

of five times the trunk diameter from the outside of the trunk. The closer to the trunk the roots

are pruned the greater the effect on the tree.

A.Pruning Herbaceous Plants

A certain amount of maintenance is needed to keep a garden looking its best. This minimal effort

may mean all the difference between a garden that is mediocre and one that evokes compliments

from neighbors. Deadheading, disbudding, pinching back, heading back, cutting back and

thinning are all necessary pruning techniques. These chores will encourage plants to bloom for

longer periods of time and improve overall plant appearance and health.

a) Deadheading

Deadheading is the removing spent or old flowers of plants of the garden. Annual plants will

produce many flowers throughout the growing season without much maintenance, while

perennial flowering plants only flower for a 2 to 3 week period. However, they will both bloom

more profusely over a longer period of time if they are deadheaded regularly. Deadheading is

removing old or spent flowers by cutting or pinching flowers off. This practice helps extend the

flowering season by stimulating plants to continue flowering. Annual plants must complete their

life cycle in one growing season, from seed germination and plant growth to flowering and seed

production. Removing flowers from both annuals and perennials before seeds form, at least every

five to seven days, will interrupt this natural progression, preventing them from setting seeds,

and stimulating the plant to try again and complete the process. Be aware that only specific

perennials will re-bloom or have a prolonged bloom time when deadheaded and that sometimes

the second flush will produce fewer, smaller blooms. Also, allowing a plant to go to seed, or

form seeds, will drain energy from it, not only resulting in less flowers, but a decreased growth

rate and smaller leaves.



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b) Disbudding

Disbudding is the removing of side buds of a plant. Gardeners who want their plants to produce a

limited number of large flowers rather than numerous small ones should disbud their plants.

Instead of cutting off mature spent flowers, disbudding is the process of removing young side

buds and leaving the one terminal bud. The purpose for this is to direct the plant’s energy toward

inducing one, or sometimes a few buds, to grow into very large flowers. This technique is often

used for flowers entered into contests where flower size is judged, although it may be done in the

home garden for a showy effect. Plants should be disbudded when lateral buds are large enough

to handle.

c) Pinching

Pinching removes the terminal bud, or the tip of the vegetative shoot, along with the first set of

leaves. It is only necessary to use fingers or a fingernail to remove this portion of the stem since

it is often soft and fleshy.

Although some potential blooms are sacrificed, plants that are pinched back will produce even

more flowers during the growing season. Once a plant is pinched, new lateral stems will grow

from the stem that was pinched and each of these lateral stems usually sets flower buds. Pinching

also:

1) Prevents some herbaceous plants from growing tall and spindly, by maintaining a

compact form and increasing flower numbers, and can help shape plants if a few stems

have grown longer than surrounding stems.

2) Can be used to stagger bloom time and produce a constant bloom effect. To achieve this,

it will be necessary to pinch 1/3 of the stems during one session and another 1/3 of the

stems each week for two more weeks. Make sure that do not pinch 1/3 of the stems on

only one side of the plant, rather evenly pinch plants on all sides so that flowering is

uniform.

d) Heading back

Plants that look straggly or overgrown are good candidates for heading back. Heading back

should remove stems to just above a lateral bud approximately 1/4 to 1/2 inch above the bud. The

newly trimmed plant should have a natural appearance as opposed to a sheared, formal look.



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Since these buds will emerge at different points on the stems, the shape and size of the plant and

the direction of new growth can be somewhat controlled by the location of the bud that is left at

the end of the cut. Heading back can stimulate development of smaller shoots and buds lower on

the stem, resulting in denser growth. To be effective, only a small percentage, for example 25

percent of the top growth, should be removed from perennials in a single season. Heading back

in combination with thinning will also help control the stimulation of new, dense growth.

e) Cutting back

Cutting back the entire top of a declining perennial to the ground or near ground level will

promote vigorous new growth. This technique can even extend the life of certain perennials that

flower themselves to exhaustion, and rejuvenate them. Cutting back can even stagger flowering if

stems are cut back at weekly intervals. This technique is also done at different times of the

growing seasons for different purposes.

1) Cutting back before flowering will help with height control and stagger flowering if 1/3

of the stems are cut back during one session and another 1/3 are cut back each week for

two more weeks.

2) Cutting back can also enhance the overall presence of a plant. Cutting back will promote

new, vigorous, healthy growth for a good late-season foliage show.

3) Cutting back after flowering is used for maintenance, by preventing plants from becoming

woody or lanky, and can encourage new growth and sometimes new blooms.

2.3.8. Matured garden tree felling & harvesting

Tree felling is the removal of tree to ground level. This takes the form of a straight fell and can

be carried out at any time of the year except in certain defined circumstances.

Sectional felling or dismantling techniques are used for trees which cannot be felled for reasons

of space or proximity to vulnerable structures. Trees are usually only removed entirely when

there is no other option. This may be for safety reasons as when a tree is decaying or dead, their

location to property & buildings, highways, gardens, and even other trees. Tree felling within the

confines of a property, particularly in an urban environment, can be an intricate and potentially

dangerous process. Because of this most trees need to be dismantled. No two trees are the same



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and each may require very different methods of controlled felling and removal. It is

recommended on the safest and most cost-effective method in each situation.

Tree dismantling is the process of bringing an entire tree to ground in small sections. Cutting

down a tree should never be taken lightly, unless of course the arborists are taller than the tree to

be removed. To cut a small- to medium-sized tree down, then follow all the safety rules to avoid

damage and injury, and direct it away from home.

If a tree is causing an unacceptable risk to people or property, and it cannot be remedied by a

reduction, it will need to be removed. This happens most frequently when a tree is very near

buildings causing possible subsidence, or when a tree is diseased, damage or dying through

natural causes. It is mostly older trees that will need removing but young trees sometimes

inherent defects that cannot be pruned out. In these cases then felling and replacing the young

tree is a good option.

In most cases, when buildings are erected close to mature trees, the tree will not cause

subsidence. We sometime find that poor implication assessments pay little regard to mature trees,

so mechanical damage to roots in particular will cause the trees demise. In these situations felling

in confined spaces will call for a careful specialist approach. Where there is unrestricted access,

use a series of tree roping techniques that allows dismantling the trees safely and without

structural damage to property. Where access is limited, use a crane to carry away each section.

Refer part VI, number 10.5(a-d), UGIS, 2015.

A. Create a Plan

Before cutting a tree down, there must be a plan. Look at the tree to gauge the balance of the

branches, as well as any leaning. Trees tend to fall on the side that has the most branches, due to

excess weight, and if it is leaning, you can bet it will want to fall in that direction. Select a

general direction, or path, for the tree that avoids most landscaping and other trees, while falling

in the opposite direction of the house. Base the path on your observation of lean and branch

balance, if there is any. Remember to take into account the rough height of the tree, since cutting

it away from home might send it in the direction of another. If this is the case, choose a direction

that aims toward the yard of your neighbor, and not the house. Leaning or heavily weighted trees



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often snap or fall earlier than intended, and if the weight or lean isn't headed in the proper

direction, your house gets an unexpected guest.

a) Prepare the Site

Remove all objects that can be moved from around the tree. This includes outdoor furniture,

expensive landscaping, decorations, cars and more. Do not just move things out of the planned

path of the tree, but on all sides just to be safe. Once everything is out of the way, outline your

planned path by spray painting or laying down garden hose. Give yourself a wide path of at least

10 feet, with the sides of the path angling out from the tree, similar to a triangle. No one should

step inside this path while the tree is being cut. In addition to ground level preparation, prepare

the tree as well. Trim out any dead branches to prevent them falling during the cutting process.

b) Second Pair of Eyes

Safety first' is the motto when preparing to cut down a tree. While cutting a tree you should

always have a spotter that has only one job -- to watch the tree. The spotter is given the

responsibility of calling out to others if the tree starts leaning in the wrong direction, as well as

when the tree starts to fall, no matter what direction it is going. Since he is most aware of the

tree, he can also move the cutter out of the way if he sees something go wrong.

c) Cutting the Tree

To fell a tree in the direction you want it to go, you need only follow a few guidelines for making

the cuts. The overall goal is to make a V-shaped notch on the side of the tree facing the direction

you want it to fall. Once cut properly, the tree will collapse on this side and fall along the correct

path. The first cut is made at a 45-degree angle, cutting down and into the tree to a point that is

1/4 of the way into the trunk. This is the first of the notch cuts along the side of the tree that faces

the direction you want it to fall. Repeat the cut from below, sawing up into the trunk to meet the

end point of the other cut and forming the V or notch. The tree will only be standing at this point

due to the back uncut portion of the truck, which is acting as a tension point holding the notched

gap of trunk apart. Make the third cut to fell the tree on the opposite side of the trunk, slicing into

it just above the point of the V notch. This cut releases the tension, and the tree will collapse on

the notch side, landing the tree along your chosen path, away from the house.



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2.3.9. Garden lawn mowing

Mowing of the garden grass or established turf as part of the private garden is to cut the tall grass

using machine to the appropriate height. Mow only when the lawn is dry; mowing a wet lawn

creates unattractive clumps of clippings that can harm the lawn. Cut at the correct height for the

type of grass. Typically, cool-season grasses should be cut higher and warm-season grasses

shorter. If the correct height is not sure, remove only 1/3 of the length of the blades of grass.

Keep the mower blade sharp to get a clean cut that is disease-resistant. Alter the mowing pattern

each time so the grass will not lean in one direction.

Figure 23: Garden lawn mowing techniques (Picture taken from Bahir Dar)

If there are cool-season grasses in the garden, do not mow it as frequently during hot, dry

weather. Longer grass blades can help provide shade for the roots. Refer part VI, number 10.3(a),

UGIS, 2015.

2.3.10. Logistics and Finance Requirement

The establishment and development of green infrastructure needs different activities at different

phases. Earth work, hardscape work, soft cape work and maintenance are the major activities

which should be done when establishing any kind of green infrastructure.

Budget and labor or man powers are critically important to accomplish the activities of garden

landscaping projects. However, the number of labor and the total cost required depends on the

area/size, site condition and purposes of the garden. The other cost which should be considered

when landscaping a particular GI is, the budget to purchase materials like planting material, tools



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and equipment. Therefore, rough estimating the number of labor and total cost per square meter

to establish a garden is the best way. The required labor and cost per meter square to establish

and private garden landscaping is shown in appendix 4. In addition to the required daily laborers,

professionals and experts should be involved. Thus, professionals in urban forestry and greening,

landscape architectures, horticulture, construction, engineering and other relevant fields should

be involved. Therefore, budget should be allocated for the professionals to be involved in the

project.

Landscaping of GI needs tools and equipment and these materials should be available for those

who working on landscaping activities. There are different factors which can affect the prices of

the materials and may vary every year or month. The costs for garden tools/materials are shown

on appendix 5.



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Effective date

This Ethiopia national Manual for Manual for Private Garden Establishment and

Management shall be entered in to force as of January, 2016.

H.E Mekuria Haile

Minister for Ministry of Urban Development & Housing



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Appendices

Appendix 1: Private Garden Food Crops Plants

Botanical Name Common Name Varieties Spacing Agro-ecological zone Description

Lowlands Midlands Highlands

Different Fruit Crops and their Varieties

C. sinesis Sweet orange Valencia

5-8m

dependin

g on the

species

**

Widely adapted in the tropic and subtropical

regions. Propagated both by seed and

budding.

Washington naval

Hamalin

Chamuti

Masambi

Pera

C. aurantium Sour orange

C. reticulata Mandarin Clementine

Dancy

Fairchild

Fremont

C. paradisi Grape fruit



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C. gradis Shaddock and

rootstock

s

C. limon Lemon

C. medica Citron

C. aurantifolia Lime Mexcan, west Indian

or key lime

Tahiti, Persian or bears

Vitus species Grape 3m x 3m ** * Propagated both by seed and cutting

methods. It’s a very drought tolerant but

profitable yield adequate moisture is

important during growing season.



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Musaceae Banana Gros Michel 2m x

2.5m

** ** Fast-growing plant. Widely adapted in

tropical and subtropical regions and

propagated by median sucker, water sucker,

peeper and corm bits. Detail description of

each propagation type are described below

A. Sward sucker- the most important

planting material

have narrow leaves and broad

rhizome

emerge from the ground and in

conical form

have strong connection with the

mother plant ( that is why it develop

thick corm-stored food)

B. Water sucker – they are not as such

important to use as planting material

develop broad leaves and narrow

rhizomes (low food storage due to

little connection with the mother

plant as a result they have poor

establishment)

they develop from superficial buds

of the old rhizome

C. Peppers- they are very young suckers

used for establishment of nursery

D. Median sucker – they are somewhat

large and they pass the sward sucker

stage

they are used for refilling purpose

E. Corm bits- they are prepared by splitting

the corm in to different pieces depending on

the number of buds



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Ananas comosus Pineapple 30cm x

60cm

** Herbaceous perennial with the height up to

90-100cm.grown in warmest temperate

regions.

Mangifera

indica

Mango Keitt 10m x

10m

** *

It is grown well in tropical regions;

propagated both by seed grafting or budding Tommy Atkins

Apple Mango

Persea species

(have three

ecological races)

Avocado Hass 6 meters

x 6

meters

for

grafted

plant

9m x 9m

for

seedling

**

**

**

Well adapted to cool climate of the tropics

and subtropics. Partially it also adapted in

the most cold areas

Pinkerton

Fuerte

Bacon

Ettinger

Nabal



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Carica papaya Papaya 2.7m x

2.7m

** Grown throughout the tropics where they

thrive in frost-free areas below 1500m in

elevation.

Tolerant of drought once established but in

areas with a pronounced dry season little

fruit will be set except during the wet

season. Propagation by seed

Psidium guajava

L.

Tropical Guava 6m x5m * ** Propagated by seeds. The seed keep high

viability even after long storage.

Fragaria

ananassa

Strawberry ** ** It need full sun. Soil should have good

surface and internal drainage as well as

organic matter.

Malus domestica Apple Anna 45cm

apart

**

Adapted in the moist tropical highland

areas

Winter banana

Prunus persica Peach Mc Red 3m x 3m * **

Florida Red

Florida Bell

Genus Prunus Plum Beauty 5-6m **



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Different Vegetable Crops and their Varieties

Beta vulgaris

var. vulgaris

Beetroot 8-12 ** ** Biennial grow as annual. Require cool

weather in order to develop deep red color

best temperature ranges 16-180c. Tolerant to

alkaline soil. Best thrives on fairly deep

friable sandy soil loam

Asparagus

officinalis L

Asparagus 4-5 ** ** It grows very well in warm climatic

conditions. Plants are not difficult to grow

and will thrive under a variety of conditions.

They tolerate drought, though the yield and

quality are greatly reduced.

Brassica

oleraceae

Cabbage Have different varieties 45-60

**

**

Used in salad shredded or chopped and the

stems also boiled alone and mixture of

vegetable and meat. Cool season crop. Soil-

all types but not acidic and the pH of 6.5-

6.8 best

Daucus carota L Carrot Have Different 30-40 A cool season crop best temp 16-240c



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Varieties ** ** ** elevation more than 500m above sea level

for economic yield. Well drained soil is

suitable with pH ranges 5.8-7. Primary

consumed fresh either alone or conjunction

with other dishes.

Brassica

oleracea

Cauliflower Glacier 45-60 ** ** Used as a raw in salad with dips and best

stem in cheese sauce. Cool moist climate is

best for ideal growth of the cauliflower.

More all less the same soil type with

cabbage and pH of 6 -7.5 best.

Cucumis sativus Cucumber Slicing cucumber

cultivar

23-30

**

*

Cucumber vegetables uses as a fresh or

processed vegetable. Warm season crop.

Loam soil supplied with Om and well

drained are more favorable.

Pickling cucumber



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Solonaum

melongena

Eggplant 46-76 ** * Perennial woody herb the leaves oval and

hairy. A warm season crop optimum temp

22-300c. Warm fertile sandy loam soil with

good organic matter is essential and pH

ranges 5.5-6.8 is satisfactory

Allium sativum Garlic 3-7 * ** Monocot, flower is invariably sterile. For

optimum bulbing it requires high

temperature. Grow normally in low rainfall

areas with irrigation during early vegetative

stage.

Lactuca sativa Lettuce 25-30 * ** ** Herbaceous annual with milk juice, in its

vegetable it is rosette and short stemmed.

Cool season crop with the ideal temperature

ranges 10-200c

Allium cepa

var.cepa

Onion Have Different

Varieties

3-10 ** Grow as annual but is biennial for seed

production. It is a cool season crop which



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adapts a temperature of 13-240c due to this

it can tolerate light frost but the ideal and

optimum temperature ranges from 20-250c.

Fertile sandy, silt loam or peat soil is

excellent

Capsicum spp. Pepper Hot Pepper 30-60 ** * Used in cooking and commercial flavor.

Temperature slightly higher than tomato is

required. More sensitive to cool weather.

Sweet Pepper

Lycopersicon

esculentum Mill

Potato 25-45 ** ** Potato prefers a cool temperate climate but

it can also thrive under warm day

temperatures provided night temperatures

are cool, otherwise tuber formation will be

poor.

Cucurbita

maxima

Pumpkin 91-152 ** ** Leaves of pumpkins are edible and used as a

cooked form while the fruit used as boiled

or roasted. Adapt tropical Africa climate

temp 250c fairly low humidity. Deep soils



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with rich in organic matter suitable. Annual

crop it is trailing and climbing type.

Ipomoea batatas Sweet potato Have Different

Varieties

25-46 ** ** Require warm conditions for growth and

cool cloudy conditions, and cold nights (less

than 8oC) retard crop development. Prefer

sandy to sandy-loam soils with pH 5.1 to

6.3.

Lycopersicon

esculentum

Tomato Have Different

Varieties

30-61

**

** Annual herbs. Warm season crop very

sensitive to temperature. Therefore,

optimum temp for growth 21-240c. It

require moisture throughout the growth

period

Citrullus lanatus Watermelon 61-91 ** * Warm season vegetable. Require four month

frost free weather. Optimum Temperature

ranges 25-300c and it require plentiful rain

fall



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Beta Vulgaris

var.cicla

Swiss chard 10-15 for

direct

seeded

20-30 for

transplant

ed

** ** * Biennial grow as annual, the edible portion

is young leaves. Cool season crop which

cannot bolted with high temperature.

Phaseolis

vulgaris

Green beans 5-7 ** ** Grow in many different soils however; the

less ideal soils for beans are those with high

content of sand or clay and with very low

pH. The optimal pH lies between 6 and 7.5.

Require soil temperatures of at least 8-10 °C

for germination and at least 12°C air

temperature.

Different Spice Crops

Aframomum

angustifolium

Cardamom

(Yeshaikimam)

3-6cm * ** A perennial herb, belonging to the ginger

family. It is an expensive spice known as

‘Queen of spices’. It needs a rainfall of 2000

to 5000 mm per annum with a uniform

distribution and no distinct dry season.



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Aframamum

korarima

Korarima 2m x 2m ** ** ** Grows naturally at altitude ranging from

1000-2000 meters. It needs high organic

matter soil.

Allium cepa Onion 3-10cm Grow as annual but is biennial for seed

production. It is a cool season crop which

adapts a temperature of 13-240c due to this

it can tolerate light frost but the ideal and

optimum temperature ranges from 20-250c.

Fertile sandy, silt loam or peat soil is

excellent

Allium sativum Garlic 10cm

apart

* ** Monocot, flower is invariably sterile. For

optimum bulbing it requires high

temperature. Grow normally in low rainfall

areas with irrigation during early vegetative

stage.

Zingiber

officinale

Ginger 2.5-5cm ** ** For optimum growth it needs long rainy

season up to 1200mm rainfall if not the



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production should be supported by

irrigation. High organic matter soil type is

best.

Curcuma longa

L.

Turmeric (Ird) 15cm

apart

** ** Used as a ground spice and in curry powder,

mainly as a food-coloring agent as well as a

coloring material in the textile industry.

Can be grown up to an altitude of 2000m in

areas with high rainfall.

Pepper nigrum

L.

Pepper ‘kundo-

berbere’

2-4cm ** ** Growth successfully in wider range, from

1250m to extremely lowlands areas, where

there is high rainfall throughout the year.

Cinnamomum

zeylanicum

Cinnamon ‘

Kerefa’

2m x 2m ** ** An evergreen tree. It can grow well in

almost all soil types under a wide variety of

tropical conditions ranging from semi-dry to

wet zone. It requires a warm and wet

climate with average temperature of 200c to

300c and high rainfall.

Ellettaria

cardamomum

Hill 3m x 3m ** ** Hill known as India cardamom. For

optimum growth it needs warm climatic



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conditions, and more than 1500mm annual

rainfall.

Nigella sativa Black cumin 5-6cm ** Used as a flavor in alcohol and food. And

also used as a medicine. Waina-dega and

Dega area are suitable growing areas with

annual rainfall ranges 120-400mm.

Trachyspermum

ammi

White cumin 30cm

apart

** Primarily used for medicinal and extracting

essential oils. It growth in wide ranges of

soil types. Tropical area is suitable.

Trigonella

foenum -

graecum L.

Fenugreek

:abesh”

10cm

apart

** ** It widely grown in Dega and weyna Dega

zones. It can also grow in different types of

soil but loam soil is the best one.

Propagated through seed.

Coriandrum

sativum L.

Coriander 15cm

apart

** ** Coriander (also called cilantro) is native to

the Mediterranean but cultivated worldwide

as a culinary herb. The stems, leaves, roots

and seeds are all used in cooking. Can

tolerate warm and drought conditions.

Highlands and midlands are suitable zones.



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Appendix 2: Private Garden Ornamental Plants Species

Botanical Name Common Name Agro-ecological zone Purposes Descriptions

Lowlands Midlands Highlands

Phoenix reclinata

Wild date palm

*

**

**

Ornamental

foliage and

flowering trees

and shrubs

It grows in Dry and Moist Kolla

and Weyna Dega agroclimatic

zones.

Borassus aethiopum

African fan palm

*

**

It widely grown along flood plains

and water courses in the Moist and

Wet Kolla and Weyna Dega

agroclimatic zones. Propagated

through seed.

Delonix regia

**

**

Widely planted in Bereha and Dry

and Moist Kolla agroclimatic

zones. Propagated through seed.

Araucaria araucana Araucaria ** **

Hibiscus Rosa sinensis

Red Hibiscus

*

**

**

Red hibiscus is a large shrub or

small tree that grows up to 4.7m

tall. It cultivated widely

throughout the tropical and

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Araucaria_araucana



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subtropical areas.

Spathodea campanulata ** ** Once established it is drought

resistant. It does well in Bereha

and Moist and Wet Kolla and

Weyna Dega agroclimatic zones.

Propagated through seed.

Callestimon citrinus ** **

Azadirachta indica ** ** ** It is widely grown in the Dry and

Moist Kolla and Moist Weyna

Dega agroclimatic zones.

Propagated seed.

Grevillea robusta * ** Grows in Dry, Moist and Wet

Weyna Dega and Dega

agroclimatic zones. Propagated

through seed

Geranium spp. Geranium

Herbaceous

All are the common annuals useful

as cut flowers and foliage plant

Zinnia elegans Zinnia ** **

Tagetes spp. Marigold * **



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Viola tricolor Pansy * ** Flowing and

Foliage plants

species. In intensive and close

management they can widely

growth in different agro-ecological

areas like tropical and sub-tropical

regions. Propagated by stem

Impatiens balsamina impatiens * **

Digitalis Carnations

*

**

Flowering plants widely grown in

the moist and coolest area.

Propagated through cutting. Deep,

friable and sandy loam is best.

Lilium spp. Lilium * **

Ficus elastic Ficus spp. ** ** The leathery leaves come in many

sizes and colors. Widely grown in

highlands and midlands zones.

Aloe vera aloe vera It is well known for its succulent

leaves and the many uses of the gel

obtained from them. Food, food

supplements, herbal remedies and

cosmetics. Cultivated plant but

naturalized populations occur in

dry, often rocky and exposed



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areas.

Roses spp. Roses * ** ** It grown in different agro-

ecological zones and different soil

types. Used for aesthetic and

recreational aspects. propagated by

cutting

Chrysanthemums

grandiflorum

Chrysanthemums

**

**

**

Its distribution is seen almost

throughout the world and is also

commonly known as "Glory of the

East". There is hardly any other

garden flower which has such

diverse and beautiful range of

color, shapes, and height as that of

Chrysanthemum. Propagated

through cutting.

Ferns spp.

Ferns

**

**

**

Herbaceous

Flowing and

Foliage plants

Ferns have been common

houseplants. Naturally tolerate the

lower light intensities and

moderate temperatures of a typical



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home. Propagation by spores,

budding and by division of the

rhizomes.

Turf grass spp. Different turf grass ** ** ** Turf grass has different species

and varieties which adopted in the

wider agro-ecological zones as

well as in different soil types.

Propagated both by seed and

vegetative means.

Duranta spp. Different Duranta spp. * ** ** Shrubs or small trees. Grown

widely in tropical and sub-tropical

areas.



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Appendix 3: List of required materials and tools

Shovels – used for digging and lifting, for moving earth, sieving soil and soil mixing

Spades -- cutting and digging in a heavy soil

Garden fork – thick, heavy tines, used to turn over soil.

Pitchfork – lighter, longer tines, used to move light, loose materials.

Picks: Loosen soil that is very hard and very rocky.

Mattocks: Loosen soil that is hard but not rock-hard, Loosen soil that is laced with roots,

Loosen soil that is full of stumps.

Rakes: made for breaking up spaded soil, smoothing seedbeds and removing leaves

Hoes: Used for cultivation (chopping, loosening and moving light soil), Weeding (cutting off

weeds at or just below soil surface)

Hand pruners or Secateurs – Used to cut branches up to ¾-inch in diameter.

Watering can----it can be made of metal or plastic; and it should have a capacity of 10-12L;

kitted up with fined-perforated sprinkler to avoid damage to young plants and dentition of

root from splashing water

Wheel barrel---- for transferring all kinds’ materials; potting soil, seedling ready for

delivery…etc.

Ranging pole: It is used for marking surveyed stations or intermediate stations. It is also

useful in marking straight lines

Cultivator: designed for breaking up soil crusts, cultivating, and uprooting rootstocks

Garden line: It is used for lining up beds and for making straight line when planting.

Watering can: It is used for sprinkling water over young seedlings and for irrigation during

dry season farming.

Tape: A tape is used for taking short or detailed measurement on the field.

Asphalt: Bituminous concrete or asphalt is composed of aggregates bound together with

asphalt cement, Porous asphalt pavements is used on parking lots, driveways, sidewalks,

local roads and temporary roads and ramps.



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Concrete consists of binding material called cement, composed of lime, silica, alumina and

gypsum, that is mixed with sand, aggregate and water. Concrete is also used to make precast

paver stones of various shapes, sizes, finishes and colors

Brick from kiln-fired clay or shale has been used as paving pathways, sidewalks and as a

building material

Stone is a durable paving surface that is available in either natural or synthetic form.

Wood and wood products are used in the construction of decks walks and steps

Sand is often used as a sub base for other paving material such as brick and paver blocks.

Gravel has been used for years as a road and path surface.



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Appendix 4: Cost and labor estimation for private garden landscaping

Activities Required Materials Unit Unit Cost

(Birr)

Man-day

(MD)

Remark

Site preparation (earth

work)

Cutting and filling Digging hoe, spade,

shovel, scoop

M3 65-90 750 MD/ha

Leveling Garden spade,

scoop,

M2 15-30 600 MD/ha

Green components

establishment

Lawn grass

installation

Grass M2 87-120 500 MD/ha

Flower planting Flower plants M2 5-10 20MD/ha Cost to purchase flowers is not

included

Shrub planting Fruit and ornamental

shrubs

No. 5-10 1 MD/50

shrubs

Cost to purchase shrubs is not

included

Tree planting Fruit, ornamental

and shade trees

No 5-10 1 MD/50 trees Cost to purchase trees is not

included

Fountain (installation

and construction)

Curve stone Cement, sand and

concrete stone

M2 80-120 30MD/a 12m2

fountain

Cost for both labor and the

required materials

Tiles Terrazzo & ceramic M2 420-480 40MD/a 12m2 Cost for both labor and the



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fountain required materials

Decorative partition

installation

Decorative(ceramic

structures) and

fixtures

Point/

no

1000-

1200

20MD/a 12m2

fountain


required materials

Water line installation Pipe and fixtures Meter

linear

(ML)

108 4MD/500ML Cost for both labor and the

required materials

Light installation Wire, switch, bulbs

and poles

Point/

no.

90-250 4MD/500ML Cost for both labor and the

required materials

Furnishing Seats (wood,

bamboo, concrete,

etc)

Spot 5000-

7500

16 Cost for both labor and the

required materials.

Cultural lodge

installation and

construction

Wall and roof

installation

Wood, bamboo and

bamboo products

(e.g. ties.), thatch

M2 400-500 150MD/a

200m2 lodge


required materials

Foundation, basement

and floor installation

Cement, sand, curve

and concrete stones

M2 500-530 85MD/a

200m2 lodge


required materials

Tiles Terrazzo and

ceramic

M2 420-480 120MD/a

200m2 lodge


required materials



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Water line installation Pipe and fixtures Meter

linear

(ML)

108 4MD/500ML Cost for both labor and the

required materials


and poles

Point/

no

90-250 4MD/500ML Cost for both labor and the

required materials

Furnishing Seats, bins, etc. spot 5000-

7500

16MD/spot Cost for both labor and the

required materials

Walking trail/pathway

installation


concrete stone

Meter

linear

(ML)

80-120 6 Cost for both labor and the

required materials

Tiles Cobblestone and

terrazzo, ceramic

M2 420-480 6 Cost for both labor and the

required materials

Water line installation Pipe and fixtures ML 108 4MD/500 ML Cost for both labor and the

required materials


and poles

Point/

No.

90-250 4MD/500 ML Cost for both labor and the

required materials

Furnishing Seating and bins Spot 5000-

7500

16 Cost for both labor and the

required materials.



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Toilet installation Ground cutting and

digging

Digging hoe, spade,

shovel, scoop

M3 65-90 750 MD/ha


concrete stone

Meter

linear

(ML)

80-120 6 Cost for both labor and the

required materials

Wall and roof

installation

Wood products and

roof cover (local

materials)

M2 100-150 30MD/a 16m2

toilet


required materials

Child play ground Ground cutting and

filling

Digging hoe, spade,

shovel, scoop

M3 65-90 750 MD/ha

Leveling Sand, grass M2 15-30 600 MD/ha

Play facility

installation

Wood, steel, plastic

and synthetic

materials

spot 4000-

5000

12MD/spot Cost for both labor and the

required materials

Waste treatment and

management

Litter bin/garbage Plastic and synthetic

containers

Point/

no

80-120 1MD/15 point Cost for both labor and the

required materials

Biogas installation Sand, cement, Point/ 9000- 40MD/point Cost for both labor and the



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concrete stone, no 10000 required materials

Maintenance of green

components

Watering M2 2.80-

8/month

20MD/ha Cost for watering and the water

Weeding M2 5

ETB/mo

nth

20MD/ha Cost only for weeding

Fertilizing Fertilizers M2 3.5-

6/month

20MD/ha Cost for fertilizing and the

fertilizer

Pruning Pruning tools No. 5-10 1MD/32 trees Cost only for small and

medium trees pruning

Turf grass mowing Grass mowing

machine

M2 7

ETB/mo

nth

20MD/ha Cost only for grass mowing

and the rent of the machine



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Appendix 5: List of medicinal plants and their use and growth habits

(a) Commonly marketed MPs

No Scientific name Vernacular name Habit Part

used

Medicinal use

1 Carissa spinarum Agam/Hagmssa Shrub Roots Evil eye, epilepsy

2 Croton

macrostachyus

Bisana/Bakanissa Tree Roots Gonorrhea

3 Echinops kebericho Kebericho/Karabicho Herb Rootstock Abdominal problem

4 Embelia schimperi Enqoqo/Hanqu Liana/

Shrub

Fruit seeds Tapeworm

5 Glinus lotoides Metere Herb Fruit Tapeworm

6 Hagenia abyssinica Kosso/Heto Tree Flowers Tapeworm

7 Hydnora johannis Dechmerech Root

parasite

Whole plant Nightmare

Astringent

8 Jatropa curcas Shrub Fruit Evil eye, abdominal

problem

9 Olea europea ssp

cuspidata

Woira/Ejersa Tree Bark Renal problems/

mouth

bleeding

10 Plumbago zeylanica Amera Herb Leaves/fruit Various

11 Rumex abyssinicus Meqmeqo Herb Root Diarrhea

12 Securidaca

longepedunculata

Itesemenahe Shrub Roots/bark/le

aves

Diarrhea/

various

13 Silene microselen Wegert Herb Root Evil eye/ tapeworm

14 Taverneria

abyssinica

Dingetegna Shrub Roots/

bark/

leaves

Various/ sudden

illness



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15 Thymus schimperi Tosegn Herb Leaves Gonorrhea

16 Warburgia

ugandensis

Befti Tree Bark Malaria

17 Withania somnifera Gizawa Shrub Root Various illness/ Evil

eye

(b) Some Endemic Medicinal Plants of Ethiopia and their Conservation Status

No. Scientific Name Family Common Name Cons.

Status

1 Acanthus sennii Acanthaceae Sokoru/Kossoru NT

2 Aframomum corrorima Zingiberaceae Kororima VU

3 Alchemilla haumannii Rosaceae Endrif VU

4 Artemisia abyssinica Asteraceae Chqugn VU

5 Bothriocline schimperi Asteraceae

LC

6 Bidens macroptera Asteraceae Kelo/Adey abeba LC

7 Cineraria abyssinica Asteraceae

LC

8 Clematis longcauda Ranunculaceae Fiti/Azohareg LC

9 Coccinia abyssinica Cucurbitaceae Anchote LC

10 Crassocephalum macropappum Asteraceae

LC

11 Crotalaria rosenii Fabaceae Shashamane NT

12 Crotolaria agatiflora subsp.erlangeri Fabaceae Shashamane NT

13 Cussonia ostinii Araliaceae

NT

14 Cyphostemma molle Vitaceae

NT

15 Echinops ellenbeckii Asteraceae

EN

16 Echinops kebericho Asteraceae Kebericho VU

17 Echinops longisetus Asteraceae

LC

18 Erythrina brucei Fabaceae Walena/Wolensu/Korch/Q

uara LC

19 Erythrina burana Fabaceae Burana VU

20 Euphorbia dalettiensis Euphorbiaceae

EN



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21 Euphobia piscidermis Euphorbiaceae Kolkol(Arab) CR

22 Euphorbia dumalis Euphorbiaceae

LC

23 Helichrysum gofense Asteraceae VU

24 Hypagophytum abyssinicum Crassulaceae

VU

25 Impatiens rothii Balsaminaceae

LC

26 Impatiens tinctoria subsp. abyssinica Balsaminaceae Insosila LC

27 Inula confertiflora Asteraceae Haxxawii NT

28 Justicia diclipteroides subsp.

aethiopica Acanthaceae Weed NT

29 Kalanchoe petitiana Crassulaceae Indaula LC

30 Kanahia carlsbergiana Asclepiadaceae Kertassa EN

31 Kniphofia foliosa Asphodalaceae Lela LC

32 Kniphofia isoetifolia Asphodeliaceae

LC

33 Laggera tomentosa Asteraceae Qes bedeje NT

34 Lippia adoensis Verbenaceae Sukahi/Kusaye/kese LC

35 Lobelia rhynchopetalum Campanulaceae Tarura NT

36 Maytenus serrata Celastraceae

VU

37 Millettia ferruginea Fabaceae Birbira LC

38 Phagnalon abyssinicum Asteraceae

LC

39 Rhus glutinosa Anacardiaceae Imbis/tatessa LC

40 Satureja paradoxa Lamiaceae

NT

41 Sedum baleensis Crassulaceae Buri EN

42 Senecio myriocephalus Asteraceae Agadena LC

43 Sideroxylon oxyacanthum Sapotaceae Faraqassa NT

44 Solanecio gigas Asteraceae Burkitu LC

45 Solanum marginatum Solanaceae Hiddi LC

46 Taverniera abyssinica Fabaceae Dingetegna CR

47 Thunbergia ruspolii Acanthaceae

LC

48 Thymus schimperi Lamiaceae Tosigni LC



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49 Trifolium calocephalum Fabaceae

NT

50 Urtica simensis Urticaceae Sama/dobi NT

51 Vepris dainellii Rutaceae Arabe LC

52 Vernonia leopoldii Asteraceae Regi LC



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Appendix 6: Costs for garden materials

No Items descriptions Unity Quantity Unity cost

(Birr)

Total

1 Garden tools

1.1 Wheel Barrow No 1 250

1.2 Pick Axe No 1 256

1.3 Spade No 1 120

1.4 Hoe No 1 168

1.5 Rake 12 Finger No 1 250

1.6 Machete No 1 42

1.7 Shovel No 1 223.5

1.8 3-finger No 1 221

1.9 Axe (3kg.china made) No 1

1.10 Axe (4kg. Mark) No 1

1.11 Watering Can- Plastic No 1

1.12 Root pruning scissors No 1

1.13 Training saw No 1



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1.14 Hedge Scissors No 1

1.15 Bow Saw No 1

1.16 Measuring Tape 50cm No 1

1.17 Measuring Tape 50cm No 1

1.18 Sickle No 1

1.19 Line Levellers No 1

1.20 Mesh wire M2 1

1.21 Digging hoe No 1 240

1.22 Crow Bar No 1 50

1.23 Mattock No 1

1 Pruning equipments No 1

1.1 Bypass Pruner (different kinds No 1 1100

1.2 Premium Pruning Loppers No 1 1760

1.3 A Folding Pruning Saw No 1 80

1.4 Long-Reach Hand Pruner No 1 120

1.6 German Angled Bypass Pruner No 1 1470

2 Thinning Equipments

2.1 Gas-powered chainsaws No 1 6279

2.1 Battery powered chainsaw 1 4200

3 Turf grass management

equipment

3.1 Grass cutter machine (Mower) No 1 4400

3.2 Grass Trim-Shears No 1 488

http://www.garrettwade.com/premium-pruning-loppers/p/11G12.01/

http://www.garrettwade.com/long-reach-hand-pruner/p/45T02.17/

http://www.garrettwade.com/german-angled-bypass-pruner/p/18A01.01/

http://www.garrettwade.com/grass-trim-shears/p/45T02.16/



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