The Universal Table Saw Sled

Do Precision Work – Even with Inexpensive Table Saws!

Table saw blades always tend to move the wood while the cut is being made. This is why it's so difficult to get accurate angle cuts with a table saw. With less expensive saws, the miter slot is often a little wider than standard miter gauge bars. This makes accurate cuts extremely difficult to achieve.

For really precise work you need to: Make or buy a table saw sled that enables you to position your workpiece accurately for the cut. Securely clamp your workpiece in place so it will not move while the cut is being made. Make sure the miter bar on your sled fits snugly in the table saw slot so there is no side to side

movement of the sled. Keep your hands safely away from the blade.

With this sled, the miter bar fits perfectly in your table saw's slot. You can get the same accuracy with aninexpensive saw, as with an expensive cabinet shop saw!

This table saw sled and the accompanying accessories enable you to position a variety of workpiece shapes and sizes in the precise position you need. The T-track enables you to securely clamp your workpieces.

Click the links below to download the free plans for the Table Saw Sled Accessories

Safety Handles 3 Point Clamp Miter Fence Taper Jig Tenoning Jig

Getting the Most from Your Table Saw

A wise person once said: If you pay a fair price and buy something good, you only pay when you buy it. If you buy something cheap that’s basically not up to par, you’ll pay every time you use it.

For really accurate work, here are some important considerations regarding table saws:

The Machine itself: Your table saw needs to have a smooth, flat surface with miter gauge slots that are machined

to exactly 3/4” wide. Both the miter slots and rip fence must be exactly parallel to the sides of the saw blade.

Your saw should have a solid metal top, either machined steel or cast iron. The less expensivecontractors saws have a plastic top. These are light weight and easier to move around at a construction site, but not well suited for precision wood shop work.

The mechanism that raises and lowers the blade height should work smoothly and remain in place when set.

Click here for examples of some really excellent quality table saws.

The Miter Gauge: For precision miter cuts, you need a really good miter gauge. The miter bar must fit snugly in the table saw slots. The gauge must have accurate and positive stops at 0º, 22-1/2º, 30º and 45º for the most

common angles. The miter gauge fence should be high enough that you can clamp your work piece so it

cannot move during the cut. Should have a sliding stop so you can cut multiple pieces to the exact same length. Click here for examples of some really excellent quality miter gauges.

The Rip Fence: For precision rip cuts, you need a first class rip fence. Except for the most expensive table saws, the rip fence that ships with the saw tends be be

barely adequate. The rip fence should slide smoothly and must consistently lock parallel to the saw blade. It should include accurate measuring scales and lock solidly in place. Click here for examples of some really excellent quality rip fences.

The Saw Blade: It doesn’t take much thought to realize that precise cuts depend on sharp teeth. The quality

and condition of your saw blade is as important as anything else on your table saw. If the teeth are dull, you may be able to force the wood through the saw but you’ll have some

serious sanding to do later. The act of sanding diminishes the accuracy of any cut you make. If the blade wobbles even a little, your cuts won’t be accurate. The shape and angle of the teeth is also important. The teeth must be securely welded to the

blade and precisely ground so each tooth cuts exactly like the one before and the one after it. Click here for examples of some really excellent quality saw blades.

The Universal Table Saw Sled

The first step in building this project is to build the basic table saw sled. The various accessories you can build later, are used to align and secure the workpiece. The handles provide convenience and safety.

Step 1. Cutting the Parts

Parts You'll Need for the Basic sled:

One 12" by 24" piece of 1/2" MDF board One 12" by 3" piece of 1/2" MDF board One 12" by 2 1/4" piece of 1/2" MDF board Four 8 1/4" by 5 5/8" pieces of 1/2" MDF board One 12" by 24" piece of 1/2" MDF board One 3/4" by 24" by 1/2" piece of hardwood or UHMW plastic Three 12" long pieces T-Track (should be 1/2" thick) Two 7 1/2" long pieces T-Track (should be 1/2" thick)

Parts Drawings

Step 2. Measure the Miter Bar Slot Distance The miter bar needs to be placed so that the edge of the table saw sled is flush with the edge of the saw blade. This serves two purposes:

1. It minimizes splintering on your workpiece. (Works like a zero

clearance table saw insert.) 2. You can see exactly where the blade will make the cut.

The drawing to the left shows a quick and easy way to accurately measure this distance. The correct distance is indicated by the blue arrows. Next, you will cut a slot in bottom of the sled bottom.

Step 3. Cut the Slot for the Miter Bar

First, cut a piece of scrap wood to the exact width of your miter bar slots. It should fit snugly in the slot so it slides easily but has no side to side movement. This is the exact width of the slot you'll cut in the next step. You need to cut a 1/8" deep slot down the bottom surface of your sled's base asindicated in the drawing to the left. The width was determined in the previous step. The distance of the slot from the edge of the sled base, (indicated by the blue arrows), is the measurement you made in Step 1.

Step 4. Attach the Surface Tiles and T-Track

Note the arrangement of the surface tiles and t-track in the drawing to the left. Using your choice of either contact cement or glue, attach the surface tiles to the top surface of the sled base. These tiles must be positioned so the t-track fits between them. Ensure the screw holes,(red arrows), are above the miter bar slot,(blue arrows).

Position the T-Track as shown. Note the gap at the ends of the center pieces of T-Track in the close-up image, (green arrow). This provides an opening for inserting T-Track bolts.

Step 5. Attach the Miter Slot Bar

When the glue is dry, position the miter slot bar in the slot on the bottom of thetable saw sled base. Using the holes already drilled in the surface tiles as guides, drill through the sled base and the miter slot bar with a 3/32" drill bit. (These will be the pilot holes for the miter slot bar.) Next, remove the miter slot bar and countersink the four holes in the surface tiles for #6 flathead screws. Now, enlarge the four holes in the tiles and sled base with a 9/64" bit. (This provides the correct diameter holes for the screw shanks.) Finally, attach the miter slot bar with 1 1/4" #6 flathead screws.

Step 6. Apply Sandpaper to the Surface Tiles

Finally, cut pieces of 120 grit sandpaper to the size of each surface tile and apply it to the surface tiles with contact cement. The sandpaper helps hold the workpieces securely in place.

This completes your table saw sled. Now you're ready to make the Zero Clearance Side Extension .

The Zero Clearance Side Extension

The side extension is important for two reasons:

It prevents the end of the workpiece from breaking off before the cut is finished. (It provides a surface on the left side of the saw blade that is the same height as the surface of the table saw sled.)

It's minimizes tearout on the left side of the saw blade. Having a supporting surface against theedge of the blade helps the blade make a clean cut. Otherwise, the blade's teeth tend to push the wood fibers in a downward direction which tears fibers away from the wood.

The Side Extension is quite simple to build. It's basically just two layers of 1/2" thick MDF board with a strip of wood to sit in your saw's miter gauge slot. This keeps it in a fixed position so it doesn't move while making cuts.

Since the table saw sled has sandpaper glued to the top surface, you should add the same thickness of sandpaper to the bottom surface of the side extension. This makes it exactly the same height of the sled's surface. (I'm sure it goes without saying, but if the sandpaper were on the top surface would make the workpiece hard to push.)

Step 1. Measure the Length & Width

Determine the width and length of your Table Saw Sled Side Extension as shown in the image to the left.

The length is the same as the front to back measurement of yourtable saw. The width is the distance from the left edge of your table saw's blade to the left edge of you table saw.

Step 2. Cut the Parts

Top Surface and the Base. These are two identical pieces of 1/2 thick MDF board. The length and width are the measurements you made in Step 1.

Miter Slot Strip. This can be made of any wood you have available. The length is 1/2" longer than the length of the Base and Top Surface pieces.

Stop Tab. This piece is the width of the Miter Slot Strip and 1/2" long by 1/2" thick.

Step 3. Measure the Miter Bar Slot Distance

The wooden miter slot strip needs to be placed so that the edge of the sled extension is flush with the edge of the saw blade.

The drawing to the left shows a quick and easy way to accurately measure this distance. The correct distance is indicated by the blue arrows. You will cut a slot in bottom of the side extension base to accommodate this strip in the next step.

Step 4. Cut the Slot for the Miter Bar

Cut a 1/8" deep slot on the bottom surface of your side extension's baseas indicated in the drawing to the left. The width of this slot is the sameas the width of your table saw's miter gauge slot. (Indicated by the red arrows.)

The distance of the slot from the edge of the sled base, (indicated by the blue arrows), is the measurement you made in Step 2.

Step 5. Attach Base & Top - Drill Small Holes

With contact cement or wood glue, attach the top surface to the base as shown to the left. Be sure the edges of the Top Surface and base are flush on all four sides. When the glue is dry, position the Miter Slot Strip so it is flush with the end of the base at the rear and sticks out 1/2" in the front as indicated by the blue arrows in the drawing.

Clamp the Miter Slot Strip in place and drill four 3/32" holes completely through the Top Surface, Base, and Miter Slot Strip. These holes should be placed directly above the slot for the Miter Slot Strip. The outer holes are 2" from each end. The two center holes should be equally spaced between the two end holes.

Step 6. Attach the Miter Slot Strip

Remove the Miter Slot Strip and enlarge the four holes though the Top Suface and Base with a 9/64" drill bit. This makes the holes the proper shank hole size for #6 wood screws.

Next, countersink these holes on the Top Surface for a #6 flathead wood screw. Position the Miter Slot Strip as in the previous step and secure it with 1 1/4" long #6 flat wood screws.

Next, attach the Stop Tab with a 2 1/2" long machine screw with the appropriate nut and washers. (In dicated by the blue arrow.)

Step 7. Attach Sandpaper to the Base.

Finally, turn the assembled side extension upside down and glue piecesof 120 grit sandpaper to the bottom surface of the base with contact cement.

This ensures the top surface of the side extension is the same height as the top surface of the sled and still permits the workpieces to slide easily.

This completes your table saw sled side extension.

Inner Surface Panel(4 Required)

5 5/8 "

8 1/4 "(1 Required)

2 1/4" Surface Panel

12 "

2 1/4 "

(1 Required)

3" Surface Panel

12 "

3 "

(1 Required)

Sled Base

24 "

12 "

Miter Track Bar (1 Required)

24 "

The width of the Miter Slot Bar is determined in Step 2 of the Assembly Instructions.

12 "

T-Track (Must be 1/2" thick)

(3 Required)

7 1/2 "

T-Track (Must be 1/2" thick)

(2 Required)

Table Saw Sled

Shop Drawings - Parts Dimensions

Copyright (c) 2015 BobsPlans.com LLC

Table Saw Sled

Shop Drawings - Hole Layout

Copyright (c) 2015 BobsPlans.com LLC

2 3/4 "

1 1/2 "

2 3/4 "

4 "

4 "

2 3/4 "

2 3/4 "

1 1/2 "

3" Surface Panel

Inner Surface Panel

Inner Surface Panel

2 1/4" Surface Panel

Using a 3/32" bit, drill one hole through each of the four surface panels as shown. Then, countersink these screws so the screwheads will be below the surface.

These holes are for attaching the miter slot bar.

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