ULTIMATE SULAWESI & HALMAHERA - Birding Tours -ULTIMATE SULAWE… · where we stood and gave us a...

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1 BirdQuest Tour Report: Ultimate Sulawesi & Halmahera www.birdquest-tours.com Sulawesi Pitta (all photos by Dave Farrow) ULTIMATE SULAWESI & HALMAHERA 6 – 26 SEPTEMBER 2014 LEADER: DAVE FARROW Another great Birdquest tour to Sulawesi and Halmahera, we enjoyed great success despite the effects of ever-increasing habitat destruction at some sites. On Sulawesi we enjoyed many superb endemics such as Green-backed, Lilac-cheeked, Sulawesi Dwarf and Great-billed Kingfishers, (some of the 14 Kingfisher species recorded!), a daytime roosting Sulawesi Scops Owls and both Ochre-bellied and Speckled

Transcript of ULTIMATE SULAWESI & HALMAHERA - Birding Tours -ULTIMATE SULAWE… · where we stood and gave us a...

   

1 BirdQuest Tour Report: Ultimate Sulawesi & Halmahera www.birdquest-tours.com

Sulawesi Pitta (all photos by Dave Farrow)

ULTIMATE SULAWESI & HALMAHERA

6 – 26 SEPTEMBER 2014

LEADER: DAVE FARROW Another great Birdquest tour to Sulawesi and Halmahera, we enjoyed great success despite the effects of ever-increasing habitat destruction at some sites. On Sulawesi we enjoyed many superb endemics such as Green-backed, Lilac-cheeked, Sulawesi Dwarf and Great-billed Kingfishers, (some of the 14 Kingfisher species recorded!), a daytime roosting Sulawesi Scops Owls and both Ochre-bellied and Speckled

   

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Boobooks, Cinnabar Boobook, Sulawesi Masked Owl, Sulawesi and Satanic Nightjars (to make five Nightjar species seen), that marvel of evolution the Maleo, Knobbed and Sulawesi Dwarf Hornbills, Red-eared and Oberholser’s Fruit Doves, Sulawesi Serpent Eagles, Sulawesi Hawk Eagles, Spot-tailed and Sulawesi Goshawks, Small Sparrowhawk, Purple-bearded Bee-eaters, Purple-winged Roller, Piping Crow, Malia, Hylocitrea, Red-backed and Sulawesi Thrushes, and the demure Matinan Flycatcher. On Halmahera we saw Beach, Common Paradise, Blue-and-white and Sombre Kingfishers, and had good encounters with Halmahera Boobook and Moluccan Scops Owl. Its a great place for Pigeons and Parrots, and we found Blue-capped, Grey-headed and Scarlet-breasted Fruit Doves, Spectacled and Cinnamon-bellied Imperial Pigeons, Moluccan King Parrot, White Cockatoo, Great-billed, Red-cheeked and Eclectus Parrots, Moluccan Hanging Parrot, Chattering and Violet-necked Lorys. We had stunning views at close range of Moluccan Scrubfowl, found Goliath Coucals, the odd Paradise Crow, Gurney’s Eagles, Halmahera Leaf Warbler and White-naped Monarch. We enjoyed the dawn lek of Standardwing Bird-of-Paradise, plus some icing on the cake that came in the form of a pair of Purple Dollarbirds performing in the early morning sun. Our ‘bird-of-the-trip’ came at close to the end of our visit, with a superb Red-bellied Pitta (or Sulawesi Pitta as it must now be called!) that thrilled us at close range and gave some stunning views, just one of the 274 bird species recorded.

We began our birding on this tour with an early drive up into the limestone hills of south Sulawesi, to Karaenta forest. Arriving in the half-light we ate our breakfast at the roadside as the birds awoke around us. Our target of Black-ringed White-eye held out for a little while, singing some way back from the road so we had to get into the forest to get views of this little endemic fellow. We continued birding along the road, finding a perched Sulawesi Goshawk, Green Imperial Pigeons of the race paulina, some fly-by Sulawesi Dwarf Hornbills and a passing Piping Crow. Some distant Ivory-backed Woodswallows were welcome, plus we saw Spotted Kestrel, Blue-backed Parrots, White-necked Myna and Yellow-sided Flowerpecker. Down at the base of the mountain we found Grey-sided Flowerpeckers, Black and Brown-throated Sunbirds and a male Black-naped Fruit Dove, and in nearby fields we saw Pale-headed Munias and White-shouldered Trillers. We then headed into slow traffic to reach the airport, where after some lunch we flew to Palu, a one hour flight followed by a three and a half hour drive, with a stop en route for a perched Sulawesi Serpent Eagle. We rolled into Wuasa and our home for the next five nights, greeted by some welcome home cooking.

Purple-bearded Bee-eater Citrine Flycatcher

We left our hotel in the dark the next morning, and very quickly scored on the first bird of the day, a Sulawesi Masked Owl that was sat on a church tower! Hallelujah! We continued uphill to the remnants of the roadside forest, and despite the light coming up and the dawn chorus being well under way, we were able to find a pair of Cinnabar Boobooks calling in the gloom. We also saw Great Eared Nightjar, to make it a flying start to our day here in Lore Lindu. We had been fearful that the diggers that were carving their way through the

   

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roadsides (roadworks!?) would have dramatically affected the birding here, but nonetheless we set about picking up birds such as Mountain and Black-fronted White-eyes, Blue-fronted Flycatcher, Island Verditer, Yellow-vented Whistler, Sulawesi Drongo, Fiery-browed Starling, a vocal Spot-tailed Goshawk and the noisy but furtive Malia. Around Lake Tambing we found Sulawesi Myzomela, Golden-mantled Racket-tails, Mountain Tailorbird, Brown Cuckoo Dove and Rusty-breasted Cuckoo. We decided to have a trial-run up the Anaso track, a stiff climb on a rocky path that is gradually becoming washed away – gone are the days when we could drive to the top! Ascending just a few hundred metres we found Sulawesi Leaf Warblers, Rusty-bellied Fantails, more Malia, a Hylocitrea, some splendid Purple-bearded Bee-eaters, Red-eared Fruit Doves and a pair of Satanic Nightjars sat roosting together. We headed down and back to our digs for lunch, en route viewing a nest of Small Sparrowhawk that had two well-grown juveniles balanced on top. In the afternoon we headed along the Sedoa river valley, and saw Sulawesi Hawk Eagles displaying over the ridge, Rufous-bellied Eagle, a distant perched Sulawesi Crested Myna, Purple Needletails, Sulawesi Triller, Knobbed Hornbills, White-bellied Imperial Pigeons, a tame Golden-headed Cisticola, Lemon-bellied White-eyes, and a swarm of Sulawesi Swiftlets.

Satanic Nightjar

As is so often the way, the following day was rather slower, as we had seen so much on the first outing. Little activity was obvious at first light, and we heard a Great Shortwing yet despite our best efforts going inside the dark forest he did not want to play. A Sulawesi Thrush sang nearby, and then he appeared very close to where we stood and gave us a great show, singing to us from a nearby lichen covered branch. We walked the roadsides where they were not too devastated by the diggers, adding Caerulean Cuckooshrikes together with a snowy-bellied Pygmy, a Superb Fruit Dove showed us his vivid colours, and we eventually found a Chestnut-backed Bush Warbler that broke cover, scuttling back and forward across a path like a mouse. A nice Gould's Bronze Cuckoo showed well in a dead tree, a Barred Honey Buzzard soared distantly, and on the lake were two Sunda Teal. Dropping down to the Sedoa valley we found a tree full of Yellow-and-Green Lorikeets and a perched Sulawesi Serpent Eagle, and after some afternoon rain we found some Sulawesi

   

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Blue Flycatchers, and a Barred Rail ran off the roadside. Local paddyfields hosted numerous Purple Herons, a flock of Wood Sandpipers and hundreds of Chestnut Munias, but little else could be seen in the rather tall rice crops.

A very early start was required for our trek up the Anaso track, and we walked for the first hour in darkness, our breakfast portered up for us so we could eat once most of the exertion was completed! We pressed on to the upper reaches of the track up to 2300m, and although the whole mountain seemed so quiet you could have heard a pin drop, we enjoyed some good looks at Lesser and Greater Sulawesi Honeyeaters, Golden-mantled Racket-tails that were close enough for us to see their fine rackets, and Mountain Serins that offered typical views as they pinged overhead calling. We plodded onwards, up and back, finding a welcome Hylocitrea along the way. We were happy to get down again, but the lower forests were also rather quiet, yet at the end of the day we had a good look at a Sulawesi Serpent Eagle, and the two juvenile Small Sparrowhawks still sat in their nest, a pair of Knobbed Hornbill and some White-bellied Imperial Pigeons. Our final day at Lore Lindu began with an early attempt for Owls that drew a blank, though a Sulawesi Thrush sang sweetly from the big trees in the pre-dawn. The birding this morning consisted mainly of consolidating views of birds we had recorded previously, with a great look at a confiding Chestnut-backed Bush Warbler walking around on the ground singing, plus further views of Lesser Sulawesi Honeyeaters, Sulawesi Drongos and Caerulean Cuckooshrikes, and some nice close-ups of Blue-fronted Flycatchers and Rusty-bellied Fantails. New additions were Black-billed Koel and Sulawesi Pygmy Woodpecker, and post-dinner foray around the village was successful when we found a noisy pair of Speckled Boobooks that performed wonderfully.

Blue-fronted Flycatcher female Sulawesi Serpent Eagle

A final early trek up the Anaso track yielded some more Red-eared Fruit Doves and Purple-bearded Bee-eater, then it was time to move on. A short way down the road we found a tree filled with Grosbeak Starlings, Ivory-backed Woodswallows and a pair of Sulawesi Cicadabirds. Another stop along the road at lower altitudes produced a pair of Purple-winged Roller, and in hot fields and scrub near Palu we found Pale-headed Munias, Savanna Nightjar and Barred Buttonquail. Palu provided the venue for a memorable seafood lunch, then it was time to fly to Makassar for an overnight stop.

The following morning we managed to squeeze in a half hour visit to the Makassar fishponds on our way to the airport, where we were greeted by a Savannah Nightjar sitting on the ground, Buff-banded Rail, various waders including Marsh and Wood Sandpipers, Ruddy Turnstone, a group of Javan Plovers, White-necked Stilt and Little, Whiskered and Gull-billed Terns. We then flew to Ternate, a perfectly shaped volcano in the

   

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Moluccan Sea, and after landing on the skirt of the conical mountain we drove down to a jetty and boarded our boat across to Halmahera. We perched on the roof of the torpedo-shaped craft, and as we sped across the straits we saw a Wilson's Storm Petrel and some Bulwer’s Petrels, and inshore we saw Great Crested Tern. We then drove across the island to Subaim, where we just had enough time to reach the edges of the forest and found Cinnamon-bellied Imperial Pigeon, Rufous-bellied Triller, Long-billed Crow and Blyth's Hornbills before the sun went down. Waiting after dark we heard Moluccan Owlet-Nightjar and Halmahera Boobook, neither wanted to come and play though.

Chattering Lory White-streaked Friarbird

We headed back to the forest for the morning, and began birding up on a pass where we had an early score with a Moluccan King Parrot that gave us a brief show. White-streaked Friarbirds were in good number here, plus we found Red-flanked Lorikeets, some brilliant Chattering Lorys, a Halmahera Leaf Warbler singing from high in the trees, Scarlet-breasted Fruit Doves, Dusky-brown Oriole, the only White-naped Monarch of the tour, and good looks at a pair of vocal Paradise Crows. As we returned towards our hotel we saw two Gurney’s Eagle soaring high in the sky, then after some lunch we headed the short distance up the coast to Foli. Here we were to spend three nights in simple accommodation at the home of the village headman, in his purpose built shed, the ‘Guesthouse Jefri’. As soon as the heat had lessened a little, we headed out in the back of a pick-up along an old logging track. Blyth’s Hornbill are numerous here, plus we found Blue-capped and Grey-headed Fruit Doves, Halmahera Cuckooshrikes, noisy Eclectus Parrot, Great-billed Parrot, huge Goliath Coucals, Metallic Starlings in good number, a fine Halmahera Flowerpecker and the demure Dusky Honeyeater. A Dollarbird was briefly seen in flight, which seemed to look rather blue-ish... We lingered after dark, and were teased but eventually rejected by Moluccan Owlet Nightjars that refused to show.

The following morning we entered the forest in darkness, and took up position on a slope where we could hear the loud cacophony of a Standardwing Bird-of-Paradise at his lek. As the light dawned gradually, we had increasingly better views of a single male tumbling onto exposed perches with fanned wings, raised epaulettes of metallic green feathers across its front, cream coloured standards drooped over his back, all the time grinding out his machine-like calls. Another male called close by and a female was glimpsed briefly, but the lead male stayed to display in a very open patch, giving one of the best shows I have seen in a long time. The fairly recent find here of a conveniently located lek makes seeing this great bird all the more easy. We even had handrails and benches – rather unlike the pre-dawn two-hour trek we previously had to make, that included a river crossing in the dark! All very adventurous, but not to everyone’s taste! As the show wound down, we had a great look at a Common Paradise Kingfisher perched nearby. We continued further along the track where we found Violet-necked Lory, Moluccan Hanging Parrot, Moluccan (formerly Spectacled) Monarch, Pied Imperial Pigeons, Blue-and-White Kingfishers perched in a line like a shish

   

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kebab, a fine male Scarlet-breasted Fruit Dove, Northern Golden Bulbul, Slaty Flycatcher and Cream-throated White-eye. In the afternoon we had glimpses of Dusky Scrubfowl, had a good look at a noisy Gray’s Grasshopper Warbler, plus White-bellied Cuckooshrikes and a pair of Drab Whistler. As dusk fell, we heard a distant Barking Owl, but we scored with a nice view of a Halmahera Boobook, and Large-tailed Nightjars flew off the track as we headed homeward.

Wallace’s Standardwing Purple Dollarbird

The next morning we headed far up the track, and in the cool morning air we hit upon a hatching of termites coming out of the ground, and raucous calls alerted us to a pair of Purple Dollarbirds that came sailing overhead, gliding around over us as they hoovered up the winged insects, joined by Moustached Treeswifts and Spangled Drongos. What a great bird! The rest of the days birding produced new species such as the comical White Cockatoos, Spectacled Imperial Pigeon, Oriental Cuckoo, but was largely taken up with our hunt for Ivory-breasted Pitta. We spent hours in the gullies in the forest here, trying to get a look at the source of the loud wolf-whistles that were becoming monotonous mantras to us, and occasionally hearing their distinctive loud wing whirr. We managed to get brief looks at three birds, but for some reason they were all very shy, and all staying on the ground. We tried once again after dark to find Owlet Nightjars, but instead found a rare mammal; an Ornate Cuscus sat in a tree.

A final morning walk along the logging track, and still new birds were to be found. We had a nice look at Common Cicadabird, our only Moluccan Starlings, Grey-streaked Flycatcher, Black-faced Munia and a great pair of Sombre Kingfishers sat in a huge tree. A Moluccan Pitta called from a deep and impenetrable gully but could not be tempted to come closer, but a family party of Goliath Coucals with noisy spotty juveniles provided a nice diversion. Having enjoyed some great birding and rather spartan living conditions, it was time to head off, say farewell to our hosts here and bob across the bay to Daru to meet our vehicles, a journey that provided a few Bridled and Common Terns and a couple of Red-necked Phalaropes. We drove to Tobelo, and after some dinner we headed further up the island to Galela, where we were ferried across to the black sand beach in outrigger canoes. A Moluccan Scops Owl showed well in a coconut palm before we embarked, and once on the beach we sat and waited for the Moluccan Scrubfowls to arrive. Local guides scoured the beach, until it was clear that we would have to just wait. After a couple of hours, a loud fluttering overhead heralded the arrival of one of these little dinosaurs that had come to lay his egg in the sand, and flicking on the light revealed him to be stood just a few metres from us, sat frozen in the torch beam so that we were able to see the colourful plumage of this strange fellow. Hurrah! We then re-crossed the inlet and headed home.

   

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Following our late night, we washed the black sand from our feet, and headed back towards Sidangoli. We made several roadside stops, but the heat of the day was on us quickly. A few birds seen included Greater Sand Plover, Manchurian Wagtails, a fly-over Brush Cuckoo, a Gurney's Eagle and a Black-chinned Whistler, before we rolled into Sidangoli. After lunch we made a cruise-by of the waterfront trees where we saw a shining example of a Beach Kingfisher, then crossed the straits back to Ternate. The crossing was uneventful, and then we headed into a welcome hotel for the night.

Moluccan Scrubfowl Blyth’s Hornbill

We had a spare morning on Ternate due to a late change in our onward flight time, so after breakfast we drove into town to view the house of Alfred Russell Wallace, an unassuming mansion with a yard full of domestic ducks. We continued from here to the crater lake of Danau Tolire, where we strolled around the forested lip of the caldera and found a perched Gurney's Eagle, a trio of fine Channel-billed Cuckoos, Blue-capped Fruit Doves, the ubiquitous Willy Wagtails, numerous White Cockatoos, a Torresian Crow and a Great Frigatebird that flew in for a look around. We then flew to Manado and drove out through the choked streets of the sprawling city to Kotamobagu, along the way finding Buff-banded Rail, Wood Sandpipers, Manchurian Wagtails, Slender-billed Crow and many Eastern Cattle Egrets in the roadside paddyfields.

We got up in the middle of the night to drive up to Gunung Ambang, with a pre-dawn walk up into the ever-retreating forest here. In the gloom of the dawn we heard at least two Scaly-breasted Kingfishers, but were unable to pinpoint their location, and after it got light we were unable to find where they sat silently in the forest. The forest itself was in bad shape, with many trees downed, the trail scoured deep by the illegal logging and many areas of previously dark damp forest had been opened up to the sunlight. We walked higher up the hill where we found the demure Matinan Flycatcher singing from a perch above our heads, plus we saw Island Verditer, Rusty-bellied Fantail, Yellow-vented Whistler, but little else of note. Outside the forest itself we saw Purple Needletails and Yellow-and-Green Lorikeets. Moving on, at a small roadside marsh we saw Dusky Moorhen, Wandering Whistling Ducks, Sacred Kingfisher and a fine Black Eagle. We continued to Tambun where we entered the Maleo protection area. Here the conservation project staff locate and transfer the huge eggs of this amazing bird and re-bury them in a pen where the chicks can hatch unmolested. Once the chicks dig their way out, they are kept overnight before releasing to the forest. We had the privilege of releasing two Maleo chicks that were less than a day old, and also got to see one of the enormous eggs. What a wonderful creature, and truly one of the most amazing products of evolution in the entire bird world! Their massive eggs weigh 250g, incubate for 60 days in the hot soil which remains between 32 and 36 degrees Celsius, and the chicks are totally ready to fly off into the forest on emerging! We were less lucky however with the adult, finding only an elusive bird that remained mostly hidden before disappearing.

   

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We returned to Tambun the following morning, but were again unsuccessful in finding an adult Maleo. We did however see Sulawesi Black Pigeon, Oberholser’s Fruit Dove, Bay Coucal, numerous Yellow-billed Malkoha, a Sulawesi Cicadabird, and Green Imperial Pigeons. We also visited a stretch of lush roadside forest, where we found a smart pair of Pied Cuckooshrikes that came and perched over our heads. After a break for the midday period we headed across the river from our accommodation, into the sad remnant of lowland forest remaining there. In the thicker parts we found Yellow-breasted Racket-tails that treated us to a chorus of their comical bugling, plus we had some nice views of Sulawesi Dwarf Hornbills. At the forest edge we saw some fly-by Ornate Lorikeets and Silver-tipped Imperial Pigeons, a perched Blue-backed Parrot, and more Yellow-billed Malkohas. As darkness fell, we saw a Sulawesi Masked Owl briefly, but the Sulawesi Scops Owls stayed high in the trees.

Ashy Woodpecker Pied Cuckooshrike

Having received word that four Maleo had gone to roost that evening, we decided to once again make the pre-dawn trip to Tambun, and this time we were in luck, and were rewarded with good views of three birds standing in the trees, ready to go to the ground and drop their eggs. Other birds were thin on the ground this morning despite our dogged persistence at creeping along the trails here. We drove slowly down the nearby lanes trying to get views of Barred Rails that would scuttle out of the roadside ditches, and found a soaring Spotted Harrier with a group of migrating Chinese Goshawk. Back at our lodging, a vigil by the riverside yielded a juvenile Lesser Fish Eagle, Common Kingfishers of the hispidoides race and White-breasted Waterhen, while a group of Black Kites soared over the fields. In the afternoon we headed out to Tapakolintang, where the highlight was a Gorontalo Macaque, plus we saw a Grey-headed Imperial Pigeon together with a flock of White-bellied Imperial Pigeons and a distant perched Sulawesi Crested Myna. The following morning, a short vigil by our accommodation produced a fine Barred Rail crossing the road, then we returned once more to Tapakolintang where things started hotting up with a lovely group of eight Sulawesi Crested Myna, many White-necked Myna and Grosbeak Starlings, plus our target of Small Sulawesi Hanging Parrot that appeared on cue, perched up in a bare tree. We had a good look at a Sulawesi Black Pigeon, Crimson Sunbirds and Ivory-backed Wood Swallows, had a glimpse of a Lilac-cheeked Kingfisher, and then it was time to hit the road. After a long drive we reached Tangkoko at the far eastern end of Sulawesi, where at a roadside overlook saw Silver-tipped and Grey-head Imperial Pigeons. Arriving at our guesthouse we were greeted by the sight of a roosting trio of Sulawesi Scops Owls sat in a bamboo clump, and at dusk we were lucky enough to see a Sulawesi Nightjar that briefly flew very close to us.

We awoke to the haunting whistles of Green-backed Kingfishers calling from the forest adjoining our lodge, which meant it was time to get into the Tangkoko forest! Our first stop produced a quartet of Ornate Lorikeets, then further into the woods we found several Green-backed Kingfishers, an elusive Sulawesi Pitta,

   

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Tabon Scrubfowl, and a very obliging Red-backed Thrush (one of a pair) that posed for photos at close range. A strangler fig was the roost site for some wonderful and spooky-looking Spectral Tarsiers, which feasted on some grasshopper snacks provided for them by our guides. We also saw a canopy-dwelling (and neck-breaking) Bear Cuscus, and a pair of Ochre-bellied Boobooks that blinked at us from their palm tree roost. In the afternoon we had a gentle cruise in small boats along mangrove creeks, finding a Little Pied Cormorant, Pink-necked Green Pigeons, White-rumped Cuckooshrikes, Grey-tailed Tattler, Common Sandpiper, Eurasian Whimbrel, and eventually a pair of vivid Ruddy Kingfishers and a fine Great-billed Kingfisher that posed for us in a mangrove tree.

Sulawesi Dwarf Kingfisher Ochre-bellied Boobooks

Our final morning at Tangkoko, and we had a reduced a target list of things to find Soon after first light we found our first, a Lilac-cheeked Kingfisher that sat confidingly in the forest gloom. Next we found a troop of Sulawesi Crested Macaques, strolling casually around us without a care, and we also able to consolidate views of some lively Ornate Lorikeets. From here we went deeper into the forest, ascending the slope that climbs towards the top of the volcanic hill, scouring the rattan undergrowth for Sulawesi Dwarf Kingfisher. We had something of a shock when both Bobby (our local guide) and then myself walked within inches of a large (and apparently venomous) Wagler's Palm Viper that was coiled around the thin branches of a little bush by the path, spotted only by the ever-observant Paul, who was third in the line! After many photos were taken, we were able to continue without having sustained any injuries, however at this point we had more or less hit a dead end in our search for the wee Kingfisher. As luck would have it, a call came from another guide who had found one, so we hurried down to see it, and were rewarded with prolonged close views of this obliging jewel. From here we had one last task, to try and see Isabelline Bush-hen, and in some scrub near the village we found a noisy pair that popped out of the thicket for us to give some nice views. We then returned to check out of our well-appointed guesthouse, and head for our final hotel. Situated on the coast near Manado, with a mangrove boardwalk and a view of Bunaken Island, some birding here at the end of the day produced White-rumped Cuckooshrikes, Grey-rumped Tattler, Greater and Lesser Sand Plovers, plus some Pied Imperial Pigeons. We then had a good feast washed down with pitchers of beer, and a final search around the hotel in the morning produced Eastern Osprey, White-winged Black Tern, Brown Shrike, Eurasian Whimbrel and some Peaceful Doves.

And so the time had come to leave and head homeward via Manado airport, and say farewell to traveling companions as we headed off in separate directions. We had enjoyed so many good birds, most of them endemic, colourful, and exciting. With the rate of habitat destruction in this part of the world, we should feel blessed to have seen as many birds as we did. This has to be the world’s most threatened region and the urgency to visit is now even more critical – go now before it’s all gone!

   

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Sulawesi Scops Owl

   

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 Purple Dollarbird

SYSTEMATIC LIST OF SPECIES RECORDED DURING THE TOUR The species names and taxonomy used in the report mostly follows Gill, F & D Donsker (Eds). IOC World Bird Names. This list is updated several times annually and is available at http://www.worldbirdnames.org. Species which were heard but not seen are indicated by the symbol (H). Species which were only recorded by the leader are indicated by the symbol (LO). Species which were not personally recorded by the leader are indicated by the symbol (NL). Species marked with the diamond symbol (◊) are either endemic to the country or local region or considered ‘special’ birds for some other reason (e.g. it is only seen on one or two Birdquest tours; it is difficult to see across all or most of its range; the local form is endemic or restricted-range and may in future be treated as a full species).

Bulwer’s Petrel Bulweria bulwerii Four seen en-route from Ternate to Halmahera. Wilson’s Storm-Petrel Oceanites oceanicus One seen en-route from Ternate to Halmahera. Tricolored Grebe Tachybaptus tricolor Seen near Tobelo and on Ternate. See Note. Great Frigatebird Fregata minor Singles seen at Sidangoli and over the lake on Ternate. Lesser Frigatebird Fregata ariel Many seen around Halmahera and Ternate, also at Tangkoko. Little Pied Cormorant Phalacrocorax melanoleucos A single at Tangkoko was a surprise. Purple Heron Ardea purpurea Odd birds seen around our route. Eastern Great Egret Egretta modesta A few singles seen in suitable habitats. White-faced Heron Egretta novaehollandiae (NL) One seen on the runway at Makassar. Little Egret Egretta garzetta A few encountered around our route, not common.. Pacific Reef Egret Egretta sacra A single seen on Ternate, another at Tangkoko. Eastern Cattle Egret Bubulcus coromandus Commonly seen on Sulawesi. Javan Pond Heron Ardeola speciosa Not uncommon on Sulawesi wetlands and paddies.

   

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Little Heron (Striated H) Butorides striatus Seen at Makassar fishponds, Toraut and Tangkoko. Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax A flock seen at dawn at Makassar fishponds. Woolly-necked Stork Ciconia episcopus A flock of seven soaring over Bantimurung. Eastern Osprey Pandion cristatus (LO) A single at Luley Resort. Pacific Baza ◊ Aviceda subcristata A brief view of one near Subaim. Barred Honey Buzzard ◊ Pernis celebensis Just one seen, at Lake Tambing. Black Kite Milvus migrans A small flock seen at Toraut over burning fields. Brahminy Kite Haliastur indus Seen regularly on both islands. White-bellied Sea Eagle Haliaeetus leucogaster A single seen at Tangkoko. Lesser Fish-eagle Ichthyophaga humilis A vocal juvenile perched by the river at Toraut. Sulawesi Serpent Eagle ◊ Spilornis rufipectus Multiple sightings around Sedoa and Tambing, also at Tambun. Spotted Harrier Circus assimilis A single soaring bird near Tambun with the following species. Chinese Goshawk Accipiter soloensis A migrant flock of eight birds near Tambun. Sulawesi Goshawk ◊ Accipiter griseiceps A perched bird at Karaenta, a glimpse of a vocal bird at Tangkoko. Spot-tailed Goshawk ◊ Accipiter trinotatus Good looks at one of a pair at Lake Tambing. Small Sparrowhawk ◊ Accipiter nanus An active nest at Lore Lindu with two well-grown juveniles still present. Black Eagle Ictinaetus malayensis Several sightings around the Dumoga Bone area.

Black Eagle Gurney’s Eagle

Gurney’s Eagle ◊ Aquila gurneyi Five birds seen on Halmahera, best was near Sidangoli. Rufous-bellied Eagle Hieraaetus kienerii A single seen distantly at Sedoa. Sulawesi Hawk-Eagle ◊ Spizaetus lanceolatus Several sightings around Lore Lindu, a single at Tapakolintang. Spotted Kestrel Falco moluccensis Singles seen regularly on Sulawesi, a couple on Halmahera. Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus A single seen cruising about at Sedoa. Wandering Whistling-Duck Dendrocygna arcuata Seen well near Kotamobagu, others at Toraut and Tambun. Sunda Teal ◊ Anas gibberifrons Two seen at Lake Tambing, others around Dumoga Bone. Philippine Scrubfowl ◊ Megapodius cumingii Some fair views of one at Tangkoko. Dusky Scrubfowl ◊ Megapodius freycinet Some poor looks at one at Foli, surprised at close range. Moluccan Scrubfowl ◊ Eulipoa wallacei Great close views of one on the beach near Galela. Maleo ◊ Macrocephalon maleo Three visits to Tambun was unusual, but great views were had of three. See note Red Junglefowl Gallus gallus (H) Heard at Tambun. Barred Buttonquail Turnix suscitator Two or three seen near Palu. Buff-banded Rail Gallirallus philippensis Seen at Makassar fishponds, also after rain at Toraut. Barred Rail ◊ Gallirallus torquatus A few sightings, at Sedoa, near Tambun and after rain at Toraut. Heard often. White-browed Crake Poliolimnas cinerea Nice views of several in the Dumoga Bone area. Isabelline Bush-hen ◊ Amaurornis isabellinus A good look at two in scrub at Tangkoko. White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus A couple seen along the riverside at Toraut. Dusky Moorhen Gallinula tenebrosa Two seen on a wetland near Kotamobagu.

   

13 BirdQuest Tour Report: Ultimate Sulawesi & Halmahera www.birdquest-tours.com

Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus A few with the above species near Kotamobagu. White-headed Stilt Himantopus leucocephalus A quartet of birds seen at Makassar. Pacific Golden Plover Pluvialis fulva Seen at Makassar, and also on roadside paddies in northern Sulawesi. Javan Plover ◊ Charadrius javanicus At least six seen on the mud at Makassar fishponds. See note Lesser Sand-Plover (Mongolian P) Charadrius mongolus Good looks at some at the Luley Resort. Greater Sand-Plover Charadrius leschenaultii A couple at Daru, good views of several at the Luley Resort. Eurasian Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus Seen at Sidangoli, Tangkoko and the Luley Resort. Common Redshank Tringa totanus Not uncommon at Makassar, a handful also seen on roadside paddies. Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia A single at Makassar, also seen on rice paddies in northern Sulawesi. Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis A single noted at Makassar. Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola Common at Makassar, and also numerous on wet paddies on Sulawesi. Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos Seen regularly in suitable habitats. Grey-tailed Tattler Heteroscelus brevipes Singles seen at Sidangoli and Tangkoko, at least ten at the Luley resort.

Grey-tailed Tattler Greater Sand Plover

Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres At least two at Makassar. Long-toed Stint Calidris subminuta A distant singleton at Makassar. Red-necked Phalarope Phalaropus lobatus A handful on sea crossings around Halmahera, a few off Tangkoko. Long-tailed Jaeger Stercorarius longicaudus A single bird following a tern flock en route from Foli to Daru. Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybridus A fair number around the fishponds at Makassar. White-winged Black Tern Chlidonias leucopterus (LO) Four seen off of the Luley Resort. Gull-billed Tern Gelochelidon nilotica A single on Makassar fishponds. Common Tern Sterna hirundo A number of these at sea around Halmahera, also seen off Tangkoko. Bridled Tern Sterna anaethetus Four seen on the crossing from Foli, a single off Luley Resort. Little Tern Sterna albifrons Seen in number at Makassar and also at sea around Halmahera. Greater Crested Tern Sterna bergii A single bird came close at Sidangoli. Rock Pigeon (introduced) Columba livia Allegedly... Red Collared Dove Streptopelia tranquebarica A few noted around Palu, also in northern Sulawesi Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis Regularly seen in open country and cultivation. Brown Cuckoo-Dove ◊ Macropygia amboinensis Often seen, at Lore Lindu, in the forest at Foli, and elsewhere. Sulawesi Black Pigeon ◊ Turacoena manadensis A couple seen at Toraut, nice looks at Tapakolintang. Stephan’s Dove Chalcophaps stephani A couple of flight views at Tambun and Tangkoko. Peaceful Dove (Zebra D) Geopelia striata Seen in the garden of the Luley Resort. Pink-necked Green Pigeon Treron vernans Good looks at several examples in mangroves at Tangkoko. Grey-cheeked Green Pigeon ◊ Treron griseicauda Seen at Karaenta, more seen at Dumoga Bone and Tangkoko. Red-eared Fruit Dove ◊ Ptilinopus fischeri Showed very well on the Anaso track. Oberholser’s Fruit-dove ◊ Ptilinopus epius A good view at Tambun, others heard at Dumoga Bone. See note Scarlet-breasted Fruit Dove ◊ Ptilinopus bernsteinii Seen near Subaim, good views of more at Foli.

   

14 BirdQuest Tour Report: Ultimate Sulawesi & Halmahera www.birdquest-tours.com

Superb Fruit Dove Ptilinopus superbus Rather elusive but seen at Lore Lindu, heard at Foli and G. Ambang. Blue-capped Fruit Dove ◊ Ptilinopus monacha Rather common if furtive at Foli, also seen on Ternate. Grey-headed Fruit Dove ◊ Ptilinopus hyogaster The most visible and numerous Pigeon at Foli. Black-naped Fruit Dove Ptilinopus melanospila Seen well at Karaenta and Tambun, also at Tangkoko. White-bellied Imperial Pigeon ◊ Ducula forsteni Seen well at Lore Lindu and Tapakolintang. Grey-headed Imperial Pigeon ◊ Ducula radiata An immature at Tapakolintang, an adult at Tangkoko. Green Imperial Pigeon Ducula aenea Seen often around Dumoga Bone, also Tangkoko and Karaenta. See note Spectacled Imperial Pigeon ◊ Ducula perspicillata Very few this year, odd birds seen at Foli. Cinnamon-bellied Imperial Pigeon ◊ Ducula basilica A single seen near Subaim, heard only at Foli. Pied Imperial Pigeon Ducula bicolor Regular in the forest at Foli, also at Tangkoko and in mangrove at Luley. Silver-tipped Imperial Pigeon ◊ Ducula luctuosa A good number seen from an overlook at Tangkoko. Sombre Pigeon ◊ Cryptophaps poecilorrhoa (H) Heard twice along the Anaso track. Violet-necked Lory ◊ Eos squamata Some nice looks at these along the track at Foli. Ornate Lorikeet ◊ Trichoglossus ornatus Small groups in flowering trees at Tangkoko, also glimpsed at Toraut. Yellow-and-green Lorikeet ◊ Trichoglossus flavoviridis Good looks at Sedoa, also at Gunung Ambang. Chattering Lory ◊ Lorius garrulus A good show by four near Subaim, just a single at Foli. Red-flanked Lorikeet ◊ Charmosyna placentis Good views near Subaim, some flighty flocks at Foli. White Cockatoo ◊ Cacatua alba Great encounters with these at Foli, also in good number on Ternate.

White Cockatoo Red-flanked Lorikeet

Eclectus Parrot ◊ Eclectus roratus Seen regularly at Foli, though no females seen. Red-cheeked Parrot ◊ Geoffroyus geoffroyi Common and visible at Foli. Yellow-breasted Racquet-tail ◊ Prioniturus flavicans A vocal party at Toraut, rather difficult to view in the canopy. Golden-mantled Racquet-tail ◊ Prioniturus platurus Often seen at Lore Lindu, close views on the Anaso track. Blue-backed Parrot ◊ Tanygnathus sumatranus Seen at Karaenta, better views at Toraut and Tangkoko. Great-billed Parrot ◊ Tanygnathus megalorhynchos Several seen at Foli. Moluccan King Parrot ◊ Alisterus amboinensis A rather brief though pleasing view of one near Subaim. Large Sulawesi Hanging-Parrot ◊ Loriculus stigmatus Seen frequently in northern Sulawesi. Moluccan Hanging-Parrot ◊ Loriculus amabilis A handful seen at Foli. Small Sulawesi Hanging-parrot ◊ Loriculus exilis Good looks at two in a bare tree at Tapakolintang Sulawesi Cuckoo (S Hawk-cuckoo) ◊ Cuculus crassirostris (H) Heard pre-dawn on the Anaso track. Oriental Cuckoo Cuculus optatus Singles seen at Foli and Toraut. Plaintive Cuckoo Cacomantis merulinus (H) One heard near Palu. Rusty-breasted Cuckoo Cacomantis sepulcralis Seen well at Lore Lindu, heard often in north Sulawesi. Brush Cuckoo Cacomantis variolosus One flew over us en route to Sidangoli from Tobelo. Gould’s Bronze Cuckoo Chrysococcyx russatus A nice look at one at Lore Lindu. Moluccan Drongo-cuckoo ◊ Surniculus musschenbroeki (H) Heard at Foli. Black-billed Koel ◊ Eudynamys melanorhyncha Rather elusive, singles seen at Lake Tambing and Tambun. Channel-billed Cuckoo ◊ Scythrops novaehollandiae Three perched in a tree by the lake on Ternate were nice.

   

15 BirdQuest Tour Report: Ultimate Sulawesi & Halmahera www.birdquest-tours.com

Yellow-billed Malkoha ◊ Phaenicophaeus calyorhynchus Notably common in north Sulawesi, also at Sedoa. Goliath Coucal ◊ Centropus goliath Rather visible at Foli, with two noisy recently fledged juvs also seen. Lesser Coucal Centropus bengalensis A handful seen on both main islands. Bay Coucal ◊ Centropus celebensis Some good views of these at Tambun and Toraut. Sulawesi Masked Owl ◊ Tyto rosenbergii A nice view of a bird sat on a church at Wuasa, also glimpsed at Toraut. Sulawesi Scops Owl ◊ Otus manadensis One seen at night at Toraut, three by day at our Tangkoko lodge. Moluccan Scops Owl ◊ Otus magicus Great looks at one at Galela, others heard at Foli. Ochre-bellied Boobook ◊ Ninox ochracea A roosting pair at Tangkoko were very pleasing. Barking Owl ◊ Ninox connivens (H) Heard on one evening at Foli. Halmahera Boobook ◊ Ninox hypogramma Seen on just one evening at Foli. Speckled Boobook ◊ Ninox punctulata Two seen well at Wuasa, one roosting in a house at Toraut.

Speckled Boobook Savanna Nightjar

Cinnabar Boobook ◊ Ninox ios A nice look at one pre-dawn near Lake Tambing, also heard at Ambang. See note. Moluccan Owlet-Nightjar ◊ Aegotheles crinifrons (H) Several heard over four nights, they just wouldn’t show! Heinrich’s Nightjar ◊ (Satanic N) Eurostopodus diabolicus A pair roosting by the Anaso track, a single nearby Great Eared Nightjar Eurostopodus macrotis Several seen, at Wuasa and Tambun. Large-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus macrurus Good looks at several at Foli, coming off the track in front of our car. Sulawesi Nightjar ◊ Caprimulgus celebensis A responsive male briefly came very close to us at Tangkoko. Savanna Nightjar Caprimulgus affinis Great looks at one at dawn at Makassar fishponds, another near Palu. Uniform Swiftlet Collocalia vanikorensis Common on Sulawesi. Halmahera Swiftlet ◊ Collocalia infuscata A good look at many of these en route to Subaim. Sulawesi Swiftlet ◊ Collocalia sororum Numerous birds seen well along the Sedoa river valley. Glossy Swiftlet Collocalia esculenta Common throughout. Purple Needletail ◊ Hirundapus celebensis Good numbers seen at Sedoa, a few at Gunung Ambang. House Swift Apus nipalensis Only seen around Makassar city. Asian Palm Swift Cypsiurus balasiensis A few at Tambun. Grey-rumped Tree Swift Hemiprocne longipennis Frequently seen on Sulawesi. Moustached Tree Swift ◊ Hemiprocne mystacea Seen well at Foli, though few in number this year. Green-backed Kingfisher ◊ Actenoides monachus Great looks at multiple examples at Tangkoko, also at Toraut. Scaly-breasted Kingfisher ◊ Actenoides princeps (H) Two calling birds pre-dawn at Gunung Ambang. Common Paradise-Kingfisher ◊ Tanysiptera galatea A great look at one at Foli. Lilac-cheeked Kingfisher ◊ Cittura cyanotis Two seen at Tangkoko, another showed briefly at Tapakolintang. Great-billed Kingfisher ◊ Halcyon melanorhyncha A good show by one in the mangroves at Tangkoko. Ruddy Kingfisher Halcyon coromanda A pair showed well in the mangroves at Tangkoko. Blue-and-white Kingfisher ◊ Halcyon diops Some nice looks at plenty of these at Foli. Sombre Kingfisher ◊ Halcyon funebris Two at Foli on our final morning, showing well in a huge tree. Collared Kingfisher Halcyon chloris Common on ‘forest edge’ on Sulawesi, also seen on Halmahera. Beach Kingfisher ◊ Halcyon saurophaga One showed well from our boat at Sidangoli.

   

16 BirdQuest Tour Report: Ultimate Sulawesi & Halmahera www.birdquest-tours.com

Sacred Kingfisher Halcyon sancta Good views near Kotamobagu, another at Tangkoko. Sulawesi Dwarf Kingfisher ◊ Ceyx fallax A final jewel to send us home, sitting quietly in the forest at Tangkoko. Variable Dwarf Kingfisher ◊ Ceyx lepidus (NL) One seen at Foli. Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis Nice views at Toraut, a few seen elsewhere. See note.

Green-backed Kingfisher Lilac-cheeked Kingfisher

Sombre Kingfisher Great-billed Kingfisher

Blue-tailed Bee-eater Merops philippinus Present on paddyfields near Makassar and Palu. Rainbow Bee-eater Merops ornatus Only seen at Karaenta on the first day. Purple-bearded Bee-eater ◊ Meropogon forsteni Some nice views of these beauties along the Anaso track. Purple-winged Roller ◊ Coracias temminckii A couple seen near Lore Lindu, and pairs at Tambun and Tangkoko. Purple Dollarbird ◊ Eurystomus azureus A superb encounter with two hawking termites at Foli. Sulawesi Dwarf Hornbill ◊ Penelopides exarhatus Seen at Karaenta, better views at Toraut. Knobbed Hornbill ◊ Rhyticeros cassidix A few seen at Lore Lindu, more regularly in north Sulawesi. Blyth’s Hornbill ◊ Rhyticeros plicatus In good number at Foli, also near Subaim. Sulawesi Pygmy Woodpecker ◊ Dendrocopos temminckii Several heard but only one seen, at Lore Lindu. Ashy Woodpecker ◊ Mulleripicus fulvus Nice looks at Tambun, others seen elsewhere in northern Sulawesi. Sulawesi Pitta ◊ Erythropitta celebensis = Red-bellied Pitta. A superb encounter at Tangkoko. See note Moluccan Pitta ◊ Erythropitta rufiventris (H) Heard at Foli. See note Ivory-breasted Pitta ◊ Pitta maxima Hard work this year at Foli, three seen but none performed. Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica Regularly noted, numerous on Halmahera. Pacific Swallow Hirundo tahitica Common throughout.

   

17 BirdQuest Tour Report: Ultimate Sulawesi & Halmahera www.birdquest-tours.com

Manchurian Wagtail Motacilla [tschutschensis] tschutschensis In number at Daru and at Gunung Ambang. Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea A couple of singles seen. Caerulean Cuckoo-Shrike ◊ Coracina temminckii Several good looks at these at Lore Lindu. Pied Cuckoo-Shrike ◊ Coracina bicolor Good views of a pair at Tapakolintang. White-rumped Cuckoo-Shrike ◊ Coracina leucopygia Four at Tangkoko, a couple more at Luley Resort. White-bellied Cuckoo-Shrike Coracina papuensis Several sightings at Foli. Halmahera Cuckoo-Shrike ◊ Coracina parvula A handful seen at Foli. Pygmy Cuckoo-Shrike ◊ Coracina abbotti Nice looks at two at Lore Lindu. Common Cicadabird Coracina tenuirostris A male seen well along the track at Foli. Sulawesi Cicadabird ◊ Coracina morio Three seen at Lore Lindu, another at Tambun. Sulawesi Triller ◊ Lalage leucopygialis Seen at Sedoa with a nest, also seen at Tambun and Tapakolintang. White-shouldered Triller ◊ Lalage sueurii A few seen in open country around Makassar and Palu. Rufous-bellied Triller ◊ Lalage aurea One of the commoner species in the forest on Halmahera. Sooty-headed Bulbul Pycnonotus aurigaster Common in parts of Sulawesi, introduced nonetheless. Northern Golden Bulbul ◊ Thapsinillas longirostris Regularly encountered at Foli. Sulawesi Drongo ◊ Dicrurus montanus Several encountered in the higher forests at Lore Lindu. Spangled Drongo Dicrurus bracteatus Common and very audible at Foli. Hair-crested Drongo Dicrurus hottentottus Regularly encountered in the northern part of Sulawesi.

White-bellied Cuckooshrike Hair-crested Drongo

Dusky-brown Oriole ◊ Oriolus phaeochromus A couple seen near Subaim, one or two in the forest at Foli. Black-naped Oriole Oriolus chinensis Regularly encountered on Sulawesi. Slender-billed Crow Corvus enca Commonly found in northern Sulawesi, with striking calls. Piping Crow ◊ Corvus typicus A fly-by of a vocal bird at Karaenta. Long-billed Crow ◊ Corvus validus A handful seen, near Subaim and at Foli though never commonly. Torresian Crow (Australian C) Corvus orru A single seen at Danua Tolire on Ternate. Paradise Crow ◊ Lycocorax pyrrhopterus Great views near Subaim, a single at Foli. Standardwing Bird of Paradise ◊ Semioptera wallacii A striking display at the lek at Foli, one of my best yet. Sulawesi Babbler ◊ Trichastoma celebense Regularly encountered, mostly by voice, in many Sulawesi localities. Malia ◊ Malia grata Nice views on several occasions at Lore Lindu, also at Gunung Ambang. Great Shortwing ◊ Heinrichia calligyna (H) Heard at Lore Lindu, not playing along though despite multiple attempts Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius A single seen near Sidangoli. Red-backed Thrush ◊ Zoothera erythronota A great close look at a pair at Tangkoko. Sulawesi Thrush ◊ Cataponera turdoides A superb encounter with a confiding songster at Lore Lindu. Pied Chat Saxicola caprata Seen around Wuasa paddies, also near Palu. Flyeater Gerygone sulphurea Not uncommon at Lore Lindu, also heard at Tangkoko and Luley Resort. Chestnut-backed Bush-Warbler ◊ Bradypterus castaneus Several tries, eventually good views at Lore Lindu. Gray’s Grasshopper Warbler ◊ Locustella fasciolata Some good views at Foli, many heard calling and singing.

   

18 BirdQuest Tour Report: Ultimate Sulawesi & Halmahera www.birdquest-tours.com

Mountain Tailorbird Orthotomus cuculatus Common at Lore Lindu, also at Gunung Anbang. Sulawesi Leaf Warbler ◊ Phylloscopus sarasinorum Seen regularly in the Lore Lindu forests. Halmahera Leaf-warbler ◊ Phylloscopus henrietta A singing bird showed fairly well near Subaim. See note. Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis Seen at Makassar and at Wuasa paddies. Golden-headed Cisticola Cisticola exilis A showy little songster at Lore Lindu. Grey-streaked Flycatcher Muscicapa griseisticta One at Foli, three in northern Sulawesi. Island Verditer Flycatcher ◊ Eumyias panayensis Regular sightings at Lore Lindu, also seen at Gunung Ambang. Snowy-browed Flycatcher Ficedula hyperythra Several seen at Lore Lindu, including a spotty juvenile. Little Pied Flycatcher Ficedula westermanni A couple of males showed briefly at Lore Lindu. Blue-fronted Flycatcher ◊ Cyornis hoevelli A few seen at Lore Lindu, tame around Lake Tambing. Matinan Flycatcher ◊ Cyornis sanfordi A demure little fellow with very threatened habitat, at Gunung Ambang.

Matinan Flycatcher Golden-headed Cisticola

Sulawesi Blue Flycatcher ◊ Cyornis omissus Nice close views of singing males at Sedoa, plus a juvenile. Pale Blue Monarch ◊ Hypothymis puella A few seen around Sulawesi; at Tambun they were nest-building. White-naped Monarch ◊ Monarcha pileatus One of these lovelies seen singing well near Subaim. Moluccan Monarch ◊ Monarcha bimaculatus Frequent sightings at Foli. Slaty Flycatcher ◊ Myiagra galeata A couple seen along the track at Foli. Shining Monarch ◊ Piezorhynchus alecto A female seen briefly at Foli. Willie Wagtail Rhipidura leucophrys An extremely common roadside bird on Halmahera. Rusty-bellied Fantail ◊ Rhipidura teysmanni Not uncommon in the forest at Lore Lindu, also seen on G. Ambang. Citrine Flycatcher ◊ Culicicapa helianthea Frequently encountered at Lore Lindu, also at Gunung Ambang. Hylocitrea ◊ (Yellow-flanked Whistler) Hylocitrea bonensis Two seen along the Anaso track. See note. Maroon-backed Whistler ◊ Coracornis raveni (H) Heard only despite repeated efforts at Lore Lindu. Yellow-vented Whistler ◊ Pachycephala sulfuriventer Common at Lore Lindu, also seen at Gunung Ambang. Black-chinned Whistler ◊ Pachycephala mentalis Two seen at Foli, one near Sidangoli. See note. Drab Whistler ◊ Pachycephala griseonota A vocal pair seen well, others heard often, at Foli. White-breasted Wood-Swallow Artamus leucorhynchus Frequent on both islands. Ivory-backed Wood-Swallow ◊ Artamus monachus Seen at Karaenta, Lore Lindu, and at Tapakolintang. Brown Shrike Lanius cristatus One in the garden of Luley Resort. Moluccan Starling ◊ Aplonis mysolensis Only two seen at Foli, despite our searching. Short-tailed Starling Aplonis minor Some good numbers seen at Lore Lindu and Sedoa. Asian Glossy Starling Aplonis panayensis A couple seen along the road near Kotamobagu. Metallic Starling Aplonis metallica The commoner Starling on Halmahera, with a red eye. Many juveniles seen. Sulawesi Crested Myna ◊ Basilornis celebensis One at Sedoa, a group of eight at Tapakolintang. White-necked Myna ◊ Streptocitta albicollis Seen at Karaenta and at several sites in the north of Sulawesi. Fiery-browed Starling ◊ Enodes erythrophris Regularly encountered in the higher forests at Lore Lindu. Grosbeak Starling ◊ Scissirostrum dubium Numerous in lower altitude Sulawesi forests, also seen at Lore Lindu.

   

19 BirdQuest Tour Report: Ultimate Sulawesi & Halmahera www.birdquest-tours.com

Lesser Sulawesi Honeyeater ◊ Myza celebensis Some very good looks at these at Lore Lindu. Greater Sulawesi Honeyeater ◊ Myza sarasinorum Also seen unusually well, along the Anaso track. White-streaked Friarbird ◊ Melitograis gilolensis Plenty near Subaim, also a few seen at Foli. Dusky Honeyeater Myzomela obscura Regularly seen at Foli. Sulawesi Myzomela ◊ Myzomela chloropeta A couple of males seen at Lore Lindu. Brown-throated Sunbird Anthreptes malacensis A few seen at Bantimurung. Black Sunbird ◊ Nectarinia aspasia Rather numerous on Halmahera, also seen on Sulawesi. Olive-backed Sunbird Nectarinia jugularis Seen regularly on Halmahera, also widespread on Sulawesi. Crimson Sunbird Aethopyga siparaja Seen well at Sedoa and at Tapakolintang. Yellow-sided Flowerpecker ◊ Dicaeum aureolimbatum Regularly encountered on Sulawesi. Crimson-crowned Flowerpecker ◊ Dicaeum nehrkorni Just a couple of sightings, at Sedoa. Halmahera Flowerpecker ◊ Dicaeum schistaceiceps Good views of a couple of males at Foli. Grey-sided Flowerpecker ◊ Dicaeum celebicum Seen fairly regularly on Sulawesi. Mountain White-eye Zosterops montanus Fairly common at Lore Lindu. Lemon-bellied White-eye ◊ Zosterops chloris Seen commonly along the Sedoa valley, also near Palu. Black-ringed White-eye ◊ Zosterops anomalus Seen well eventually at Karaenta Forest. Cream-throated White-eye ◊ Zosterops atriceps Good looks at one at Foli, others heard only. Black-fronted White-eye ◊ Zosterops atrifrons Not uncommon around Lore Lindu. Streak-headed Dark-eye ◊ Lophozosterops squamiceps Regularly encountered at Lore Lindu. Tree Sparrow Passer montanus Commonly found around villages and cultivation. Black-faced Munia ◊ Lonchura molucca A few seen at Foli. Scaly-breasted Munia Lonchura punctulata Scattered sightings in suitable habitat. Chestnut Munia Lonchura atricapilla Rather common on Sulawesi, and abundant at Wuasa. Pale-headed Munia ◊ Lonchura pallida A few seen at Makassar, more numerous in rice paddies near Palu. Mountain Serin ◊ Serinus estherae At least four seen flying overhead on the Anaso track. MAMMALS Bear Cuscus Ailurops ursinus A single at Tangkoko, resting in the canopy of a tall tree. Ornate Cuscus (Moluccan C) Phalanger ornatus A surprise find at night at Foli. Sulawesi Dwarf Squirrel Prosciurillus murinus The little dark squirrel we saw most often. Sulawesi Giant Squirrel (Red-bellied S) Rubrisciurus rubriventer (NL) One at Lore Lindu. Spectral Tarsier Tarsius spectrum At least four seen at roost at Tangkoko. Cute, but possibly evil... Moor Macaque Macaca maura A single seen at Karaenta forest. Sulawesi Crested Macaque Macaca nigra Some fine beasts seen moving in troops at Tangkoko. Gorontalo Macaque Macaca nigrescens A single seen at Tapakolintang. Tonkean Macaque Macaca tonkeana (NL) A single seen in the Sedoa river valley. REPTILES & AMPHIBIANS Monitor sp Varanus sp A beast seen at Foli. Wagler’s Palm-viper Tropidolaemus wagleri celebensis The beautiful and scary-looking snake at Tangkoko ‘Dirty Great Black Snake’ One on the trail at Foli, thick bodied and 1.5m long, another sp at Gunung Ambang.

   

20 BirdQuest Tour Report: Ultimate Sulawesi & Halmahera www.birdquest-tours.com

NOTES TO THE SYSTEMATIC LIST Tricolored Grebe Tachybaptus tricolor Split from Little Grebe T. ruficollis, this has a range from Java and Sulawesi through to the Solomon Islands. The race concerned in vulcanorum. Maleo ◊ Macrocephalon maleo Three visits to Tambun was unusual, but we eventually had great views three birds. It is truly a marvel of evolution, laying its eggs in the volcanically heated sand, which hatch after 60 days, and the newly hatched chick can fly immediately! Many thanks once again to the WCS and government researchers who are doing such a great job of protecting the birds there. There are some 50 or 60 pairs visiting here, and the hatchery held an incredible 450 eggs last season. The project seems to be helping these birds! It is endemic to the Sulawesi subregion, and classified as ‘Endangered’ by BirdLife International. The entire population is somehow estimated at just 5000, and is declining due to exploitation and human disturbance. In some areas, the populations have declined by up to 90% since 1950! Javan Plover Charadrius javanicus This is not well described in the field guide, however there are some good pictures at www.orientalbirdimages.org that show the long lanky pale legs, chunky build, long bill, rusty-hued cheek and breast patches and dusky rear collar. Oberholser’s Fruit-dove Ptilinopus epius This form (epia in Coates & Bishop) was previously lumped with Sula Fruit-dove P. mangoliensis and Banggai Fruit-dove P. subgularis; with the name Maroon-chinned Fruit-dove P. subgularis being applied to the enlarged species. Green Imperial Pigeon Ducula aenea The interesting paulina subspecies sports an attractive rufous nape that forms a shaggy mane, surely a tempting split! Cinnabar Boobook Ninox ios: Only described in 1999 from Gunung Ambang, the Lore Lindu birds show a slight plumage difference to the northern birds in that they are speckled with cream on the belly. Endemic to Sulawesi. Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis These birds that look superficially like Blue-eared Kingfishers A. meninting are of the race hispidoides . Sulawesi Pitta Erythropitta celebensis Now that Red-bellied (Blue-breasted) Pitta Pitta erythrogaster has been split 16 ways, the birds on Sulawesi are now referred to this. Moluccan Pitta Erythropitta rufiventris As with the above, this is the new name for the form found on Halmahera. Malia Malia grata: The race at Lore Lindu with chestnut wings and tail is stresemanni, while the Gunung Ambang bird with olive green wings and tail is recondita. After suggestions that these strange Sulawesi endemics are related to babblers or bulbuls, they have now been found to be related to grassbirds and certain other warblers in the Locustellidae. Endemic to Sulawesi. Halmahera Leaf-warbler Phylloscopus henrietta Coates & Bishop lump this form in Island Leaf-warbler. P. poliocephalus. Black-chinned Whistler Pachycephala mentalis Coates & Bishop lump this form in Australian Golden Whistler P. pectoralis, using the name Common Golden Whistler for the enlarged species. Black-chinned is endemic to the north Moluccas.

   

21 BirdQuest Tour Report: Ultimate Sulawesi & Halmahera www.birdquest-tours.com

Hylocitrea Hylocitrea bonensis A Sulawesi endemic that never seems to call, is always rather hard to see, yet somehow we always manage to find it! This has been found to be unrelated to Whistlers, and more closely related to Waxwings, and has been placed in its own family Hylocitridae. The common name Hylocitrea is thus more appropriate.

 

Spectral Tarsier