March 28, 2013 March 28, 2013

O ne of the most interesting facts relating to what is identified as “Sherry” is that it actu-

ally consists of a wide variety of wines. Within the Sherry “family,” one can find a great range of colors, tastes, aromas, textures, and sensations. The unique method of production and aging leads to the elaboration of many different types of wines, all of which belong to the same Denomination of Origin. The wines will range in color from a very pale straw-like yellow to a deep mahogany, and will range in taste from extremely dry to very sweet. Accordingly, there exists a Sherry to please everyone´s palate. This variety in wines also means that they will easily pair with a number of different dishes from almost every type of cuisine.DRY SHERRIES - “VINOS GENERO-SOS” Dry sherries are made with the Palomino variety of grape. They have experienced complete fermentation, therefore there is hardly any sugar left in the base wine. Dry Sherries can be further divided into:a) those that undergo biological aging under the “velo de flor” and are fortified to 15% vol. as in the case of FINO and MANZANILLA.b) those subjected to an oxidative or physico-chemical aging and which are fortified to around 17.5% vol. such as OLOROSOc) and two intermediate styles: AMON-TILLADO and PALO CORTADOa) Fino and Manzanilla have been forti-fied to 15% vol. and have aged exclusively

under the film of yeast called “velo de flor” which protects them from the oxygen in the air and, therefore, results in their pale and light color. The flavors conveyed by the flor are unique in the world of wines. FINO: Depending on the aging time spent in the barrel, the color of a Fino can range from bright straw-yellow to pale gold. Most of the best Finos spend between 4 to 7 years aging in a barrel. The resulting wine has a sharp, delicate bouquet reminiscent of almonds and herbs with a hint of fresh dough. It should be served cold, between 7º and 9ºC. MANZANILLA: As we have mentioned in our previous articles, both Fino and Manzanilla are produced in the same way. However, Manzanilla is only aged in the town of Sanlúcar de Barrameda. Due to its proximity to the sea, the Guadalquivir river and the Doñana marshlands, Man-zanilla has a very distinctive character with a fresh, fragrant aroma of flor and notes of strong salinity. It is dry and fresh with a tangy nutty palate and a balanced structure. It´s taste is very persistent. Just like a Fino, it should be served very cold. Food Pairing: Both Finos and Manzanil-las, go well with most tapas, seafood, or pescaito frito ( fried fish). In our tastings, we have served them with a good Spanish ham, salmorejo ( a tomato based cold soup), olives, and vinegar-based salads, especially sherry-based vinegar. Pairing them with sushi was also a crowd-pleaser. b) Oloroso is fortified to a minimum

of 17% vol. and will age while being exposed to oxygen. Depending on the years of aging, its color may vary from amber to mahogany, with a strong aroma reminiscent of walnuts. In older oloro-sos we can find notes of leather, caramel and wood. It is full-bodied and round. The word oloroso means “fragrant” and, years ago, many Spanish gentlemen from the Jerez region would put drops of it on a handkerchief and wear it in their top coat pocket almost as often as they would wear an elegant, cologne scent.Food Pairing: It is best served between 13º and 14ºC. It pairs well with red meats, cured Manchego cheese, and stews. We have offered it with Beef Bourgignon and have discovered a per-fect pairing.c) Amontillado and Palo Cortado Amontillado is an elegant wine which has undergone both biological and oxidative aging and , as a result, makes it complex and interesting. It is one of my favorite sherries. It ranges from pale topaz to amber in color. Its subtle, delicate bou-quet has aromas which are reminiscent of hazelnuts and vegetation, and it also has notes of aromatic herbs and caramel. It is soft and smooth in the mouth and has a dry finish and lingering after-taste. It is best served cool between 11º and 12ºC.Food Pairing: It goes very well with blue fish, white meat, soups and consommés, and with difficult-to-pair vegetables such as artichokes and asparagus. Try it with salmon-wrapped asparagus or a Coctel de Camarón (a Mexican ceviche-style shrimp cocktail).

Palo Cortado is the most mysterious and special type of sherry. It is a com-plex wine that is the result of an early transition from development under flor to oxidative aging. This used to occur naturally when the flor failed to develop at an early stage. But now. it is more a matter of selection on the basis of the organoleptic qualities of the wine. After a few months development under flor, it is fortified to 18-20% alcohol, and develops into a wine which can best be described as one that is halfway be-tween an Amontillado and an Oloroso. It combines the delicate bouquet of an amontillado with the body and palate of an Oloroso. The color ranges from chestnut to mahogany with a complex bouquet . It also contains citric and lactic notes suggestive of fermented butter. It has a deep, rounded, ample palate and a delicious lingering finish. Food Pairing: It is called a ¨Meditation Wine¨ so try this: sit in a comfortable place, listen to some of your favorite music, close your eyes and dream away while you enjoy this amazing sherry. But, if you would like to match it with some food, a nice cod brandade, some beef loin with wild mushrooms, or some fabada( a special type of bean stew from Asturias), will definitely satisfy your taste buds.Today we have looked at Vinos Gen-erosos or dry sherries. In our next Discover Sherry article we will learn about sweet sherries and a very special group of mature sherries.Until then, enjoy your sherry. Try a new type. They are all worth the experience.

Virginia MillerSherry Wine Educator