The Daily Coterie

Sunday, February 24, 2013Sunday, February 24, 2013

Show Directory

Inside!

Tuesday, September 17, 2013

front rowthe

BonjourSummer

(again!)

IT’SSHOWTIME!

Coterie SOLE COMMERCE+

Made in Italy

Coterie NY BOOTH 1825CONTEMPORARY SECTION

---------------- New York350 Bleecker St., New York646.998.3701

Beverly Hills358 N. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills310.288.0025

Europe +353(0) 1 634.50.67 North America 1.888.477.5436

www.sarahpacini.com

SP_Daily_18Sept2013_05.indd All Pages 13-09-06 10:45

Booth 3322 / 3423Javits - Level 3

BeltsScarvesApparelwww.suziroher.com

C OT E R I E Booth #9704 & 9803

514.281.9959

[email protected]

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CONCOURSE AREA at HALL 3ABBOOTH #4000

JONATHANADLER.COM

GROOVY GIFTABLES

What are your top brands? Kate: Is this a trick question? There are just too many! Some that do come to mind are Cut 25 and Calvin Rucker. What’s your plan of attack when hitting the fl oor? Kate: I plan to start at one end and work my way to the other—however long that takes. Katy: Start walking...and let the party begin!How do you stay energized? Kate: Getting a good night’s sleep the night before always helps, but seeing all the new collections is always energizing in and of itself!What are your tradeshow ensembles of choice?Kate: Comfort is key! But New York fashion is a “see-and-be-seen” environment. Sometimes you need to make a few sacrifi ces for style.Katy: For me it’s all about fl ats:

boots or my Celine slip-on sneakers.Who is the last great designer you discovered at a trade show?Katy: Pas du Calais blew me away. What’s a surefi re way for a brand to get your attention?Katy: I like collections that don’t have an “expiration date”. Looks that are classic enough to be timeless, or artisanal enough to not refl ect any time period. What are you most looking forward to this fall? Katy: UT longhorn football game weekends at By George bring lots of people, lots of energy, and lots of shopping!

your daily dose

WHO, WHAT, WEAR?! Bonjour trade show trendsetters and bienv-enue to spring! (Clothing, that

is.) This year, navigating the sea of booths has never been easier,

thanks to our handy guide. Let’s start downstairs on Level 1 where you’ll be greeted by the shimmer and sparkle of eveningwear next to the café and bridge. � Registration is on the street level (also known as Level 2), while up on Level 3 is all of Ready-

to-Wear, Jonathan Adler’s peppy, preppy lounge experience, plus the show-stopping shoe selection

of SOLE COMMERCE. There’s also TMRW, a not-so-brief rundown on future trends! � Finally, for those feelin’ washed out, there’s no better section to visit than denim on Level 4. Whew. Here’s to another

glorious Coterie season!�

GETTY IMAGES (3); BFANYC.COM; ALL OTHERS COURTESYFA S H I O N W E E K DA I LY. C O M

DAILY FRONT ROW, INC.

ON THE COVER: Karmen Pedaru in Michael Kors Spring

2014 Collection. Photographed by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images.

The Daily Coterie & Sole is a Daily Front Row Inc. publication. Copyright 2013. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. Requests for reprints

must be submitted in writing to: The Daily, Attn: Tangie Silva, 135 West 50th Street, 4th

Floor, New York, NY 10020.

To advertise call (212) 467-5785 Or e-mail: [email protected]

Guillaume BruneauCreative Director

Eddie RocheDeputy Editor

Managing EditorTangie Silva

Features EditorAlexandra Ilyashov

Fashion News EditorPaige Reddinger

Contributing EditorSara LiebermanWriter/Reporter

Dena SilverArt DirectorTeresa Platt

Contributing PhotographerGiorgio Niro

Contributing Photo EditorJessica Athanasiou-Piork

Imaging DirectorGeorge Maier

Contributing Imaging SpecialistMihai Cãlin-Simion

Contributing Copy EditorsJoseph Mills, Matt Weingarten

front rowthe

Editor in Chief, CEO Brandusa Niro

President, PublisherPaul Turcotte

Trade Publications DirectorCharles Garone

Account DirectorsJulie Humeas,

Hannah Sinclair

Marketing ManagerKelly Carr

Sales & Marketing CoordinatorSabrina Fares

Digital DirectorDaniel Chivu

Manufacturing OperationsMichael Esposito

Amy Taylor

Distribution Supervisor

All the chicest new lines to know at Coterie!10 Corso BOOTH: 4230, LEVEL 3Birds of Paradis by Trovata BOOTH: 4221, LEVEL 3Brochu Walker BOOTH: 1820, LEVEL 3

Garbe Luxe BOOTH: 4826, LEVEL 3Pleats Please by Issey Miyake BOOTH: 2220, LEVEL 3

Shakuhachi BOOTH: 4614, LEVEL 3

Suboo BOOTH: 5322, LEVEL 3X by Gottex BOOTH: 2837,

LEVEL 3

A MOMENT WITH... Tracy ReeseLEVEL 3, BOOTH: 1613Tell us about your spring collection!We have an Afro Cuban theme. There’s a lot of energy in the collection. There are beautiful fl orals, patterns and as always a lot of color. We’ve pumped up the embellishment.You and your models danced during your run through at Fashion Week!These models go from show to show to show. People are pulling at their hair, there’s no smiles, but they love an opportunity to show off their personality. We want the models to have a good time!

A MOMENT WITH...By George retailers Katy Culmo, owner and buyer, and Kate Sullivan, buyer

MODELS DO EAT! (LIGHT, OF COURSE…)Hey Adriana Lima, what’s in your fridge?• Luna & Larry’s Organic Coconut Bliss dark chocolate bars. Chocolate and coconut togeth-er is my guilty pleasure! I usually have a few stocked for when I have cravings.• Chobani greek yogurt—my girls love it, and it’s nutritious. Our favorite is the black cherry fl avor.• Blueberries! They’re rich in antioxi-dants and actually help you burn fat, so you

can eat as many as you want and not feel guilty. Sometimes I will throw

them in the freezer and eat them as a frozen dessert!

• Amazon Water. It’s so important to stay hy-drated, especially when you are running around all day. Water is also the key to great skin!

NEW AND NOTABLE…

STAY CONNECTED ON THE SCENE!

A MOMENT

Tracy Reese

For live Coterie coverage, #hashtag, message and update appropriately!

facebook.com/ENKCoterie, facebook.com/ENKInternational

@ENKCoterie, @ENKshows, #coterie13, #TMRW13

PLUS! If you’re low on battery, head to the charging stations near the 3D retail café, mezzanine, VIP registration and seating area in Crystal Palace, and by the Internet lounge across from 3B entrance.

TRACY REESE

your daily dose

SCENE Henry & Belle have joined libatious forces with Retail Goose, offering an early 3 p.m. cocktail hour today for all Coterie wanderers and retailers alike. Stop by booth 2027 to get your drink on! �

Eco-chicettes looking to save the planet one tree at a time should head over to Amour Vert (Booth: 5125, Level 3), where a simple photo can help rebuild forests devastated by wildfi res in Lake Tahoe, Calif. For every photo snapped and shared at Amour Vert’s photo hautespot, located next to the retail cafe on Level 3, the brand has partnered with American Forest to plant a tree. “We hope to get 5,000 to 10,000 trees planted in these three days,” says Chris-toph Frehsee, CEO and co-founder of Amour Vert. Their ultimate goal? “One-hundred-thousand trees by 2016, which is about 220 football fi elds, quite an area!” Finding quality sustainable fabrics proved tough for the “green” brand, so Amour Vert pioneered their own. “We were the fi rst to deliver a completely machine-washable organic cotton herringbone,” says Frehsee. Mother Nature is surely on this year’s Best Dressed List!

REBECCA MINKOFF IS ONE HOT MEXICANA MAMA! BOOTH: 4610, LEVEL 3Tell us about the Spring collection!

It’s for a strong Latin American woman, spanning the decades of

Frida Kahlo to multi-gener-ational women like Bianca

Jagger. There’s a lot of texture and embroidery.What’s the fi rst thing you want to do after a show?Go get Mexican food.

To eat…?Margaritas!How many will you have?Three.Go for the 4th! Salt or no salt?Salt!

DOUBLE ECO ALERT!

What’s your favorite scent? I’m a Bergamot guy. Although, I like the current “incense” trend, I fi nd myself always going back to the classic colognes. I’m also drawn to the new “molecular based” synthetic scents.Least favorite scent?I’m not into “Gourmand” fragrances. Scents that smell like food turn me off.

How important is scent to a person’s identity? I always believe that clothes don’t make a man, but the man makes the clothes. Similarly, a scent shouldn’t defi ne a person, but it certainly can leave a memorable impact. It’s often the fi rst impression of a woman, and lasts the longest.Tell us one thing about perfumes that most people don’t know! Hmmm. One secret is to spray a fragrance on yourself before getting dressed so it radiates as you move and the body heats up. Most people “dab” a fragrance on the pulse points, which is a bit antiquated.

A MOMENT WITH Vicken Arslanian, Founder and President, EuroPerfumesBOOTH: 3715, LEVEL 3

GETTY IMAGES (4); BFANYC.COM; ALL OTHERS COURTESY

SNAP A PIC, PLANT A TREE!

A MOMENT WITH... Lubov AzriaBCBG, BOOTH: 5001, LEVEL 3What did you do this summer?Nothing! That’s the best.Tell us about the Spring collection!Next year it’s going to be 25 years of BCBG, so we went back to our archives and pulled out the pieces that really made a statement. When we looked at the pieces, we realized it’s not just that, it’s the process, which is to deconstruct. That’s what we do as designers. We use that as an idea. We played with the idea of taking something and making it into something else.We heard you had an unusual Fashion Week...We celebrated Rosh Hashanah at our corporate offi ces!

S’well water bottles have paired up with ENK on a refi llable bottle that can be watered up at stations throughout the venue. Bonus! S’well and WaterAid are donating a portion of their proceeds to maintain safe water.

SHIRT TALKIN’with Douglas and Odile Benjamin, designers and

co-founders of RaoulBOOTH: 5608, LEVEL 3

How did the idea for Raoul come about?Douglas: I went shirt shopping in London, and after a couple

months of wearing and washing them, the collars and the

cuffs started fraying. It looked like they were being washed in a dishwasher!Odile: He called a designer and me into his offi ce to start sourcing fabrics. How did you get into

designing for women?D: Women began coming into the stores and buying the smallest sizes of shirts and altering them to fi t. But

the alterations just looked horrible, so I said we should probably get into that market! O: One woman even asked me to make a halter shirtdress for her wedding! We realized there was a demand for a clean cut, but corporate brand with a feminine and luxurious feel.What does luxury mean to you?O: For us, luxury is about quality fabrics and an impeccable fi t.

Retail Goose, offering an early 3 p.m.

wanderers and retailers alike. Stop by

designing for women?D: into the stores and buying the smallest sizes of shirts and altering them to fi t. But

the alterations just looked horrible, so I

FA S H I O N W E E K DA I LY. C O M

MEXICANA MAMA! BOOTH: 4610, LEVEL 3BOOTH: 4610, LEVEL 3Tell us about the Spring

A MOMENT WITH

Douglas and Odile

Lubov Azria

your REBECCA MINKOFF

Amour Vert

your your dailydailydailydaily dose dose dose dosedaily dosedaily

Christoph Frehsee

www.indigenous.comCoterie NY — Level 3, Booth 5750

WORLDLY.VERSATILE.

SMART.

CARRANO

Kaylee Cho, Creative Director, Booth: 4635, Level 3, TMRW What is the brand about?The universe of my design is a mix between Scandinavian and Asian with a serene voice for wearable sensuality.Favorite fabric?If a fabric has sophisticated texture, even if it’s subtle in color, it gives me imagination to develop. Which retailers are you aiming to attract?The retailers that carry the aesthetic I admire, such as Alchemist, Curve, Satine, etc. If you had to wear one piece of clothing for the rest of your life, what would it be?My oversized Kimono Jacket! I bet every age I go through with this Jacket, I will look stylish.Preferred method of relaxation?I do yoga sometimes. When I reach the stress that I cannot handle, I try to go to Thailand where every-thing looks beautiful and Zen.

Rachel Zoe, Founder and Designer , Booth: 2120, Level 3What’s the ethos behind the brand?Creating clothes that are polished, modern, tailored and glamorous—and which embody a timeless sensibility.What’s your favorite fabric to design with?Are sequins too cliché? I can’t help it…I love them! I also love including leather in every collection.Favorite color?I love jewel tones and safari colors—camels, khakis,

greens and burnt sienna.What do you like most about fall?

Wool coats, over the knee boots, cashmere everything and layering. Dressing for fall is so much fun—

the options are so much more vast.Preferred method of relaxation?Spending time with my husband and son. They always put me at ease!LA sunshine or NYC craziness?Is that a trick question!?

Rachel Zoe, Founder and Designer , Booth: 2120, Level 3

RACHEL ZOE

Showing!Showing!Showing!WHO’S With so many brands to navigate in just three days, we’re here to help! Happy buying!

Kaylee Cho, Creative

KAYLEE CHO

and layering. Dressing for fall is so much fun—the options are so much more vast.

Preferred method of relaxation?

Bia Morsch, Designer, Booth: 7720, Level 3, Sole Tell us the history of the brand, please!It was created in 1989, with the idea to design a shoe of enor-mous quality and as comfortable as a fashion shoe can be. The label has gotten bigger ever since, and today is one of the fi ve most wanted shoe brands in Brazil. Carrano also sells to over 60 countries around the world!Favorite fabric to design with?I work with leather and prefer to use kid-skin. It’s a softer and lighter leather that

can be used in a lot of different styles.Which retailers are you aiming to attract this season?

Piperlime, Boomingdale’s, Saks and Barneys.Best part about the trade show circuit?

Seeing the clients’ reactions and the styles that they select. Favorite color?

Lately, I’m in a pink and yellow mood, but I love to wear black.

If you had to wear one accessory for the rest of your life, what would it be?

A high-heel pump…or a nice golden watch.Best part about the fall?

Everything can be sexier and outrageous.

Showing!Showing!

PHOTOG R APHS COU RTE SY TH E DE SIG N ERS


WILDFOX

LEVEL 3, BOOTH #6428LEVEL 3, BOOTH #6428WILDFOX.COMWILDFOX.COM

amymatto.com

Booth #2143

Lauren Gorski, Designer, Booth: 9704/9803, Level 1 Tell us the history of the brand, please!My family has been trendsetters in luxury outerwear for four decades. Being involved in the fast paced, high-energy family business essentially since birth I decided to reinvent and evolve it into a new direction creating the GORSKI Après-Ski fur trim lux jackets collection.What’s your favorite part about the fall?Getting to wear my new GORSKI outerwear piece! Do you have a favorite?Can I name a few?! My GORSKI Après-Ski jackets; a fabulous series of lightweight GORSKI vests made in layered silver fox—this season in emerald green and cross fox. We’re hopefully adding the violet-dyed silver fox soon! How do you relax? There’s too much happening to relax! Stowe is my fa-vorite resort town to ski, play tennis and spa.

Lauren Gorski, Designer,

GORSKI

Tanya Spivey, Executive Vice President of Design, Booth: 5420, Level 3 Do you have a favorite coat?My very fi rst Andrew Marc leather jacket that was a mixed media leather, wool and fur combo. It’s still my fi rst pick out of the closet, as it has withstood the test of time and never goes out of style. Leather, in general, will never not be trending.Preferred method of relaxation?What’s that?! Just kidding. Dinner and drinks with friends on my rooftop in the Lower East Side. You’re all invited! Call our VP Mktg and PR, Marlene McDade, for directions!Aside from designing, what other creative outlets do you have?I love to dance the night away at Dorian Gray’s in the LES! My husband and I are part-owners so they let me stay after-hours! I also love to travel.

What’s next for the brand?We are becoming a full fashion life-style brand. We have hired a very talented new men’s and women’s in-house design team that came from the contemporary design-er market. In addition, we are very pleased to be working with the award-winning designer Richard

Chai. It’s not just about outerwear anymore!

Naila Jaffer, Artistic Director, Booth: 1825, Level 3

Tell us about the brand, please!We are a unique blend of knitwear, prêt-à-porter and accessories made in Italy.How would you sum up the spring

collection?Light, in all its essence, sets the tone and energy of the collection, which is enhanced by glimmers of

color. There are four color palettes: Noir, Craie and Rouge for passion; Gris, Fumée and Bleu for vibrance; Vert profond, Vert tendre and Violet for depth; Taupe, tinted Crème and Yellow for brilliance. Perforated and textured leather accessories have the power to change and brand the new summer silhouette. The jew-elry further accentuates the theme of brilliance and light; and crystals transform the pieces into brilliant

alternatives.What have been the best sellers?

The Sarah Pacini classics are still the top sellers. We’ve added new features such as contrasting graphics, the tattoos series and, again, the stone-wash effect.Do you have a favorite color?Black. It remains discreet and timeless.Best part about fall?

Different fabrics are worn and layered on top of each other: knitwear with leather, leggings

with leather boots.

Naila Jaffer, Artistic Director, Booth: 1825, SARAH PACINI

Design Studio of Etienne Aigner, Booth: 7805, Level 3, Sole Tell us the history of the brand, please!We’ve been around for over 50 years and it all started with a man, his leather tools and an intention to make something beautiful and useful.How has the brand’s history maintained?Well...there is always “WWED”—What Would Etienne Do—and that means that it has to be beautiful and practical, no excuses! Favorite luxe material to work?A favorite? That’s like asking if you have a favorite child!How massive is your own personal shoe collection?It’s extensive. A sore subject with my cohabitants, so much that it has multiple zip codes!Aside from designing, what other creative outlets do you have?Hunting beautiful oddities on Etsy, eBay or any vintage site, for that matter. I can’t resist a stoop sale either! If you had to wear one pair of shoes for the rest of your life, what would it be?My Italian handmade sandals from Francesco on via Santo Spirito in Florence, Italy.Favorite part about the trade show circuit?Espresso in plastic cups!Favorite part about fall?Those few days when you can wear an open toe and a sweater.

Design Studio of Etienne Aigner, Booth: 7805,

ETIENNE AIGNER

WHO’S Showing


Tanya Spivey, Executive Vice President of Design, Booth: 5420, Level 3 Do you have a favorite coat?My very fi rst Andrew Marc leather jacket that was a mixed media leather, wool and fur combo. It’s still my fi rst pick out of the closet, as it has withstood the test of time and never goes out of style. Leather, in general, will never not be trending.Preferred method of relaxation?What’s that?! Just kidding. Dinner and drinks with friends on my rooftop in the Lower East Side. You’re all invited! Call our VP Mktg and PR, Marlene McDade, for directions!Aside from designing, what other creative outlets do you have?I love to dance the night away at Dorian Gray’s in the LES! My husband and I are part-owners so they let

What’s next for the brand?

Tanya Spivey, Executive Vice President Tanya Spivey, Executive Vice President

ANDREW MARC

VISIT US AT BOOTH 2120 | INQUIRIES: [email protected]

LIM_DFR_AUG13_FIN.indd 1 8/21/13 2:53 PM

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ASPIGABEYOND SKINCOCOROSE LONDONLAIDBACK LONDONLONDON SOLEMA BY MARION AYONOTENORTHERN COBBLERPENELOPE CHILVERSSAVE YOUR SOLEUNITED NUDE

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BRITISHTHE

INVASIONTHE BRITISH FOOTWEAR ASSOCIATION BRINGS SOLE COMMERCE

TOP BRANDS AND THE LATEST TRENDS FROM THE U.K.

Amour Vert is the eco-fashion company that puts fashion first. For every purchase of an Amour Vert t-shirt we will plant a tree in America. Our partner, American Forests®, has been a leader in protecting and restoring forests since 1875. This program allows us to directly give back to the environment and to future generations. Visit our photo booth at the Coterie retail café on level 3 and we will plant a tree on your behalf. Our goal: Plant 100,000 trees by 2016. Get involved.

To become a stockist visit booth #5125 on level 3

www.amourvert.com

Britta Reynolds, Designer, Booth: 5750, Level 3 Tell us a brief history of the brand, please!Co-founders Scott Leonard and Matt Reynolds believe in the simple idea

that when people go to work, they should not have to leave their hearts at home. In our early years,

Idigenous was a very small com-pany built on a very big idea:

to create clothing that truly honored both people and

planet. As a result, Idigenous has become recognized as a pio-neer of fair trade and

organic fashion.Describe the current collection in three words!

Free spirited, worldly and re-imagined.

How do you stay green? I’m really into the idea of collabor-

ative consumption as a way to keep products in play. I like to swap out rather than always buy new to prolong the life of a garment. Biggest misconception about being an organic or fair trade

brand? That you can’t have great style and be eco! There is no need to compromise great design to be green. Green is gorgeous! The Idigenous line is a smart and versatile choice for the fashionista who always wants to look her best, and a worldly choice for the passionista who cares about the social and environmental impact of the purchases she makes.How are your designs impacting the fashion community? I think that the modern woman today realizes that having more doesn’t equate to higher heights of happiness. She is looking to re-imagine her needs, and through design we are trying to outfi t her new way of thinking. One season wear has become so passé. Who would the attendees be at your dream dinner party? Right now Judy Wicks is high up there on my invite list. She started White Dog Café and pioneered the go-local movement. The Dalai Lama, Steven Colbert, Meryl Streep, Abigail Adams, since I just watched the John Adams HBO series with my 12-year-old and also David Bromstad.

Design Team of Design History, Booth: 5843, Level 3 What’s the ethos behind the brand?Great fi t, forward shapes and sharp price points.Do you have a favorite fabric to design with?For fall, we love the luxury of cashmere. For spring, we work with the softness and drape of our viscose knits. Between those two you can build a whole wardrobe and accessorize with some great shoes or a new handbag.Favorite part about the trade show circuit?Interacting with our buyers and seeing them react to new product. We also love meeting new accounts from all over the world!Which retailers are you aiming to attract?Intermix, Shop Bop, Revolve Clothing, and SINGER22. We’re also aiming to expand our West Coast business!What is the universal sweater every wom-an should own?A go-to cowl neck. They fl atter the neck and face and pair well with statement necklaces.Best part about fall?Getting to wear soft cardigans again!

Design Team of Design

Britta Reynolds, Designer, Booth:

INDIGENOUS

and be eco! There is


Yamin Levy, Designer, Booth: 6812, Level 3What’s your attention-getting booth tactic this season?It’s all about the bling and color.What’s new for the brand this year?We’ve added a home collec-tion. I’m having fun blinging everything and anything. I just blinged out a mirror, which has the WOW affect!Where did you fi nd inspiration? The south of France.What’s your favorite exotic skin to work with? Python…in all colors.What pairs best with your sandals? A fabulous pair of pedicured feet.

Koren Ray, Co-Founder

and Chief Visionary Offi cer, Booth: 3825, Level 3

Tell us a brief history of the brand please!Twenty-two years ago, my mother, Toni Ray, de-

signed the fi rst Hobo collection on her dining room table. We drove those fi rst funky leather

bags to New York in a beat-up old van we rescued from a fi eld and used it on week-ends to sell on the road. And now?

We are excited to be returning to the road with the launch of our Mobile Hobo, a travel-

ing showroom designed to refl ect the interior of our fl agship store in downtown Annapolis, Maryland. For a brand like Hobo, hitting the road makes perfect sense. It refl ects our free spirit and returns us to our heritage. Where did the name Hobo come from?It was inspired by the individual spirit of those who live by their own rules. It invites you to get out and travel life in style.

Koren Ray,

HOBO

DESIGN HISTORY

Koren Ray, Co-Founder Koren Ray,

WHO’S Showing

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See What The World Will Be Wearing

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Karen Okada, Designer, Booth: 6140, Level 3Who’s the typical Laila Jayde customer?A contemporary customer that looks for easy-to-wear garments and appreciates a good value.Do you have a trade show dress code?Comfortable, with great shoes.Excited about any specifi c trends this season?Our bright modern stripes on tops, dresses and skirts.Let’s talk basics. What can’t you live without? I love my Helmut Lang graph-ite silk tank.Which designer do you admire most?Yves Saint Laurent.

Karen Okada, Designer,

LAILA JAYDE

Hoppel van Nifterick, Art Director, Booth: 7621, Level 3, SoleTell us the history of the brand, please!Fred de la Bretonière started design-ing and producing shoe and bag collec-tions in 1970 in Amsterdam after fi rst making bracelets and belts. After fi nish-ing The Art Academy in The Hague, he started his own leather workshop in the centre of Amsterdam to develop

and build up three different fashion shoe lines: ‘Fred de la Bretonière’ (fi ne lady shoes, casual with a classic twist), ‘Shab-bies Amsterdam’ (outdoor experience,

cool and nonchalant) and ‘Fretons’ (sneaker line, sporty and casual). What are your goals for the trade shows this season?Getting the US market excited for Shabbies Amsterdam and Fretons!Favorite part of trade show circuit?Being among other shoe designers. You re-ally feel the competition. I feel like an athlete!Favorite color?If I have to mention one, it’s, of course, the ‘natural’ color since it’s the basic of all colors in leather.

Hoppel van Nifterick, Art Director, Hoppel van Nifterick, Art Director, cool and nonchalant) and

SHABBIES AMSTERDAM & FRETON

Jennifer Garcia, Women’s Denim Designer, Booth: 109, Level 4Tell us the history of the brand, please! 7 For All Mankind was founded in 2000. The Los Angeles-based premium denim brand quickly

earned critical acclaim due to its innovations in fi t, fabric and fi nish. It now offers denim, sportswear and accessories collections for men, women and kids.

Favorite part about the trade show circuit? Its a great opportunity for us to meet and mingle with industry people, and really obtain honest feedback. Boyfriend jeans: Yay or nay?

Absolute yay! It’s such a versatile piece of denim that you can wear day to night. They’re incredibly comfortable paired with a simple tank and sandals or fl ats, depending

on the season, or you can add a great pointed pump a sleek silk top with a great statement jacket. The options are endless. Every girl needs a boy-

friend jean in her closet. When do you think the low-

slung look will return? Hopefully never... 7FAM is all

about that great fi t!Aside from designing clothes, what other

creative outlets do you have? I love interior design. It’s a great way to channel my creativity

and get inspiration for my designs. Preferred method of

relaxation? Weekend getaways to Palm

Springs or Joshua Tree. I instantly unwind, relax and enjoy myself. I love to be active as well, so I’ve been doing a lot of running and

hiking and yoga classes.

Jennifer Garcia, Women’s Denim Designer,

7 FOR ALL MANKIND

David Sack, Co-Creative Director, Booth: 6810, Level 3

Tell us the history of the brand, please! Streets Ahead was born in Santa Monica in 1982. We are still designing and manufac-turing our high-end accessories locally 31

years later!What does the name mean?

Streets Ahead comes from the South African expres-sion “Streets ahead of the rest.”Favorite part about the trade show circuit?Meeting up with friends and eating out in New York City. Are belts a useful tool or a way of life?Not only are belts a work of art that make a simple outfi t look incredible, but they can be used to tow a car, strap your bike on the roof racks or simply to walk the dog.

David Sack, Co-Creative Director, Booth:

STREETS AHEADDavid Sack, Co-Creative Director, Booth:

6810, Level 3Tell us the history of the brand, please! Streets Ahead was born in Santa Monica

turing our high-end accessories locally 31 years later!

What does the name mean?Streets Ahead comes from the South African expres-

David Sack, Co-Creative Director, Booth:

Comfortable, with great

JAVITS CENTER - LEVEL 1 - HALL 1E

BOOTH # 9405

SPRING 2014 COLLECTION

Tell us about Yoana Baraschi Blue!I started it as a cocktail-directed collection and had an overwhelming response. The Neiman Marcus evenin-gwear division picked it up immediately, saying that it was new and fresh and they needed that kind of spirit. And your collaboration with Conscious Commerce?Conscious Commerce is an organization started by Olivia Wilde and Barbara Burchfield. Olivia started it because she firmly believes that you make decisions that influ-ence the world simply by purchasing things. We decided to do something together, and seeing that Anthropologie has been an amazing retail partner over the past nine years, I pitched them the idea. They purchased a couple thousand dresses and I’m giving 100 percent of my own profits to Olivia’s organization. Wow! That’s generous.And Anthropologie is matching my donation to New Light, an organization started by this woman in Calcutta who has dedicated her life to taking young women out of the red light district and re-educating them, putting them through school and offering their kids medical as-sistance. I think it’s important to give meaning to a pretty thing and it feels good to offer this to the consumer. What’s it like working with Olivia?Oh, she’s amazing. She is a highly intelligent, articulate and very motivated person. She’s just a pleasure to be with because she’s very normal and down to earth. You’ve introduced so many prints over the years. How do you decide what’s in and out?I am totally unfaithful when it comes to prints. We work with design studios across the world who do original art and we have an incredibly talented in-house print designer. But each season it’s clear to me and my team if

something is a Yoana print or not. There has to be a cer-tain language or sexiness or tongue-in-cheek element, regardless of what we’re doing that particular season.Speaking of seasons, any new silhouettes that you’re excited about for spring?We’ve always been known for very fitted-to-the body dresses that we do in a million interpretations. But this spring, I returned to the volume of the frock dress to ac-centuate the bottom through big, bias-cut skirts, skater skirts, pleats or even organza underlay.

Are you more of a dress girl or a pants girl?In the summer I wear pencil skirts and tank tops, and in the winter I wear boots and tight pants. If I have just a tank top and a slim garment on, I can try on the clothes on top of it and I don’t need to strip. When the pattern-makers pin it, they won’t pin the clothing I’m wearing underneath. I have about 50 tank tops from Topshop that are disposable for fittings.You’re the fit model for the brand?Just at the creative stage.Do you attend the trade shows?Every single Coterie since we started the business I have been there! I want to know my customers and I want them to know me. What’s your favorite part about attending?I like counting the orders at the end of the day! And then what?I go to my country house in Sullivan County. It’s called the “Wild West.” Zane Grey used to write there!What do you do when you’re out there?My jam enterprise takes over! Recently I went to an or-chard and bought a barrel of peaches for $23 dollars then I got the cans and the sugar. I don’t use recipes, so each batch has a different flavor. How country chic! Can you remember the last pair of shoes you bought?These amazing Aquazzura ankle boots—and this is the third color I’ve bought them in.They must be comfortable!They are incredibly comfortable. I did buy two other pairs of shoes from Free Lance in Paris, too.We’re sensing a shoe obsession…A little bit!


From embroidery in Paris to shoes in Milan, Yoana Baraschi is certainly well-traveled when it comes to fashion. After a decade of designing an eponomyous collec-tion that reflects all that globetrotting, it’s no wonder the Romanian-born designer finds comfort at home in the country mak-ing jam. (In fabulous footwear, of course.)BY DENA SILVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO

LUXE be a lady

Booth: 2230, level 3

FA S H I O N W E E K DA I LY. C O M G E T T Y I M A G E S ( 2 ) ; B FA N Y C . C O M ; A L L O T H E R S C O U R T E S Y

Background please! I ‘ve been in the contemporary market for the last eight years. Prior to taking on my current role, I was a senior buyer for Advanced Contemporary. Before that I was a dress buyer at Saks, and prior to that I was in the dress market at Lord & Taylor.Which Saks stores do you shop for? All 41 locations in the U.S.!How long have you been perusing the tradeshow fl oors?For more than a decade!What’s your plan of attack when arriving at a show?

We go with a list of the vendors we absolutely want to cover and map out booth numbers so we can be super-effi cient. Inevitably, as we roam the aisles we dis-cover new brands and unexpected trends and our schedules go out the window.How do you stay energized all day? It used to be lots of coffee, but now my team and I are on a juice kick. Joe Dahan of Joe’s Jeans is always well-stocked, so we visit him often.Who’s the most recent designer you discovered at a trade show?For us, it’s less about fi nding new brands and more about identifying key fashion items and trends. Are you anticipating anything particular this season?I have a feeling we’ll be seeing a lot of jumpsuits and crop tops. Though, my team and I aren’t sure who over 25 is willing to bare their midriff nowadays.Who do you look forward to seeing at the shows? People like Nicola Guarna, of Robert Rodriguez. I make a point of seeing him because he brightens everyone’s day. It’s also fun to see my dress vendors: That market is so much fun and full of characters.

How many years have you been perusing the tradeshow fl oors?Ten years.What’s your plan of attack when arriving at a show?I try to fi nd out which trends and styles will be in for the coming season, as well as looking at color palettes and fabrics.How do you stay energized all day?We try to stay focused on one or two specifi c categories each day.Do you have a go-to tradeshow uniform?Jeans and a T shirt.Speaking of jeans! What are your favorite washes and fi ts? For women, J Brand leather leggings. For men, I like a straight leg with a dark wash.

What did you do prior to opening Beckley?I spent a few years in Los Angeles in the restau-rant business opening Social Hollywood

alongside Jeffrey Chodorow. I always knew I would end up in fashion, as my great grandfather opened one of the fi rst fi ne clothing shops on the Vegas strip in the Twenties. Retail is in my blood!How many years have you been perusing the tradeshow fl oors?Six years.Top brands, please! I love, and personally live in, Phil-lip Lim, Helmut Lang, ALC, Opening Ceremony, CUT 25 and Citizens Of Humanity. Who’s the most recent designer you discovered at a trade show?American Retro! It’s a brand I love from Paris.

What’s your plan of attack when arriving at a show?I very methodically locate the brands that I need to see via the show’s map, and once that’s complete, I love to explore new brands and see what’s on tap with emerging designers. How do you stay energized all day?I try to go for a run in the morning. I have a good breakfast and, of course, I drink a ton of coffee and water to keep me going.Do you have a go-to tradeshow uniform?An Alexander Wang tee, my Beckley by Melissa navy leather jacket and Citizens of Humanity Rocket Denim.Any trends you’re on the lookout for this season?I love to fi nd exciting prints and graphic pieces.Where can we catch you post-show?Soho House’s rooftop bar, if the weather permits. What do you love about autumn?Meeting new clients and styling them in our boots, chunky knits, and high-waisted denim.

BECKLEY BOUTIQUE Melissa Akkaway, designer and owner, BeckleyBoutique.comSHOP

AROUND THE CLOCK!Whether you want to go big or go boutique, there’s no shortage of superb retailers scouring Coterie for the next bestsellers destined to fl y off shelves. A trio of covetable retailers spilled their tricks for working the trade show circuit. Savvy vendors, take note!

SAKS FIFTH AVENUE Denise V. Magid, VP DMM of Contemporary Sportswear, Saks.com

NATIONAL JEAN COMPANYSteve Simon, owner , DenimHabit.com

Irmgard QuintSALES MANAGER USA

9400 Hierba RoadAgua Dulce, CA 91390 USAT: +1 661 268 0235E: [email protected] E: [email protected]

Headquarters: Estral bvProfessor Asserweg 20a

5144 NC Waalwijk The NetherlandsT: +31(0)416 322 556F: +31(0)416 322 590

E: [email protected]

www.fretons.comwww.shabbiesamsterdam.com

www.bretoniere.nl

SOLE COMMERCE, Javits Centre NYC, Level 3 Booth # 7621.

For every Sole a Soul

Dutch Debutant Fred de la Bretonière: Shabbies Amsterdam and FRETONS.

SoleCommerseNY.indd 2 14-09-13 16:20

How often do you do yoga in a miniskirt?I do yoga six days a week, but one or two days a week around this time of the year I need to stretch in the offi ce!How long have you been a yogi?Since college. But in 2004, I met [yoga instructor] Eddie Stern through Moby. They were best friends and punk rockers together in the Eighties. Moby became a rock star and Eddie became a yoga guru. I told him, “I do a little yoga,” and he told me to come to his 6:30 a.m. class the next day. I don’t think he thought I would ever show up. But I went and I went every day after that. What kind of yoga do you practice? I do Ashtanga, which is a more rigid practice because you learn different series and do the same poses every day. It’s not like a lead class, where the instructor says, “Everyone do the downward dog.” Everyone does their own practice. Does it calm you?With Ashtanga, it’s about focusing on your practice, your poses, and your breathing, and the calmness is supposed to come. It truly helps keep me in balance. Especially leading up to your show…It’s my least favorite week of the year! Why?I’m in a state of focusing on the collection, the bodies, what the fabric prices are, and all this stuff, and also styling the show. It uses the left and right side of the brain at the same time and it’s one big headache. And the whole world is on vacation and you’re in this intense mind-set. I really celebrate Labor Day because it’s labor day.Do you drink more at this time of year?Drinking makes things worse! It makes you tired and cranky, and you can’t focus. Tell us about the Spring collection.We continued the feel of street style, but in a more bohemian, romantic way. I feel like we’re having this moment where day dressing is extending into night so I wanted things that were casual and romantic at the same time. I went on this trip to Turkey and it was really inspiring both in terms of color and fabric, as well as this juxtaposition of vintage and new. And you’re apartment hunting at the same time? We’ve been renting a townhouse for a year and half and we’re not big fans of six fl oors. We’re always like, “Where is Scarlet? Where is Eloise?” and then we’re running down the stairs. We’re moving to TriBeCa into a loft space. How’d you like the New York Post story a few weeks ago about you checking out a $23 million penthouse?It was so obnoxious and it was actually very incorrect. I kind of poked my head into the building. I saw the ground fl oor and wanted to see the space because I’m always looking for cool architecture for events. I didn’t even see the penthouse. It was even funnier because the story went online and blogs were saying it was Michael Eisner’s wife

that was looking. So I was like, “My husband is not 70 years old!” It also said that I live in Los Angeles! I was like, “Oh, by the way, I have 300 people in New York City that work for me in an offi ce that I am at most of my life.”We still like Page Six…Me too! Sometimes you need a distraction when you don’t want to think about work or anything spiritual or important in the world. How else did you summer?We were in Malibu most of July. I went back and forth and the girls stayed out there. It was kind of great because I could work Monday through Thursday and go be with them Thursday to Sunday. It’s really beautiful and peaceful out there. And for me, driving fi ve hours to go to Montauk, I’d rather fl y fi ve hours and be in Malibu. Any fab neighbors?Malibu is all fabulous. I do yoga with a fun little crowd, like Mike Diamond from the Beastie Boys and Tamra Davis. They have a little yoga shell at their house and I practice there. My friends Susie and Rene Lopez are always out there. Rachel Zoe’s son and Scarlet swim together. It’s Malibu—everyone is someone everywhere you walk. But at the same time, I feel a real sense of anonymity while I’m there because that’s not really my world. Will we see an Alice + Olivia perfume anytime soon?We’ve been talking about it. There needs to be a perfume concept for the more contemporary woman that really doesn’t wear strong perfume. I don’t feel my contemporaries wear perfume the way our mothers did. It’s a different kind of era, so I want to do something that I feel is appropriate to the brand and to our consumers. But it has to be the right time. Maybe in a year or two.What are you obsessed with these days?Over-the-knee boots, plaid skirts, and magic. What kind of magic?I’m not sure. We’re having a magic dinner party on Thursday, so every guest has to do tricks.What’s your trick?I think I’m going to do something about love and kindness. That’s my other obsession right now, love and kindness. We are starting this project called “The Love and Kindness Project.” We’re installing these trees and then we’re putting all sorts of cool things on the trees, like little messages in a bottle and vintage books, and people can come and take one and replace it with another message. You’re a pretty positive person!Most of the time! I’m also very honest. I have “truthfulness” tattooed on my wrist. Do people always know where they stand with you?Yes. I’m not fake. If I’m happy with something then I’m really happy and encouraging. But if something is bad, I won’t sugarcoat. If I’m not honest with my staff and my team, I’m not being very honest with myself.

How does Alice + Olivia’s Stacey Bendet get ready for Coterie? Impromptu yoga ses-sions in her offi ce, bien sûr! The Daily visited her downtown headquarters to see how this powerhouse designer gets her body all Bendet into shape. Namaste! BY EDDIE ROCHE PHOTOGRAPHED BY GIORGIO NIRO

When’s the last time you ate corn?In Malibu, at a barbecue. Do you know what I love? Cornfi elds, like in the Hamptons. They are so beautiful. What fl ower grosses you out?A wispy willow.What’s in your fridge?A salad from One Lucky Duck. That’s my usual salad—the raw food salad. What’s your monthly dry cleaning bill? Don’t get me in trouble with my parents! When was the last time you were at the post offi ce to buy stamps?I honestly can’t remember. I also can’t remember the last time I wrote a check.

RandomQuestions: 5

Getting

BENDY Like Bendet

I N S E T S : F I R S T V I E W FA S H I O N W E E K DA I LY. C O M

BOOTH: 2610, LEVEL 3

What is the difference between your two lines?Artelier is more contemporary; there are some dresses included in it, but they’re sportswear. The Nicole Miller Collection is more of a casual look, featuring separates and dresses.Was there a particular reason you felt compelled to spin off this line?I was getting typecast in the dress department, so I realized I needed to create another label to get into sportswear. It’s much edgier and appeals to the younger customer. Although, I feel like customers can be any age these days.Explain please!I just think no one wants to dress to look old. Might as well dress young! That’s one thing I always say about French women, that they always dress young. You’ll see these older women, still going topless on the beach and wearing Azzedine Alaïa. And they can always pull it off.Speaking of the French, your new collection was inspired by the gardens in Versailles. Have you been there recently?Not recently, but I have been and I have a photography book about Versailles. There’s also a big show at the Mary Boone Gallery now featuring a picture that Robert Polidori took of the renovation of Versailles. It was so coincidental, I couldn’t believe it.Have you designed anything other than clothes or accessories?Once we made an airplane for Harrah’s Casino, which was really fun. We’ve also done a Ferrari and a Harley-Davidson.Give us some dish on your Instagram account. Is it really you posting?I do my own Instagram! I tend to have the most success with posting pictures of shoes or accessories, as well as landscapes. Plus, a New York City skyline always gets a lot of hits. Sometimes I put together

little scenarios with a vintage piece from our archives, that go all the way back to the Eighties, with a more recent piece of mine.Let’s talk prints. How are yours made?It’s impossible to draw prints anymore, and everything is done digitally and photographically. So sometimes we use images I’ve taken. It’s become so elaborate now with layers upon layers and expositions of things, it’s certainly not like the old days when you’d take out a pencil and draw something. Maybe we’ll get back to that one of these days.What’s your prints preference?I do wear a lot of solids because it’s easier, but if I’m going to an event, I actually prefer to wear a print. It makes more of a statement. You really can’t wear prints more than once though, especially the ones from the European designers. You show up at a party with your $4,000 dress, but you’d have to leave the country to wear it again. I can wear it once in Paris, once in New York, and that’s it!What are you looking forward to this fall?Well, we’ve signed up with a new shoe licensee and have this whole new collection.Oh, tell us more!They’re built around the belief that platforms are never going away. I don’t like any shoes that aren’t comfortable, so that will be an important thing.Comfortable platforms? You’re sure of it? I’m wearing them now! Although I’m still not as tall as a model in these. What did you do this summer?I went to Italy and Saint-Tropez in June, just for a vacation.Any other travel plans for the future?We’re doing a show in Columbia, where we will be showing our Spring collection.

As the doyenne of fashion, Nicole Miller has been faithfully outfitting women in decadent cocktail dresses for 27 years, and this ginger-haired designer shows no sign of slowing down. So buckle up, hold on and enjoy the joy ride!BY DENA SILVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO

It’s Miller TiMe



www.ewaiwalla.se

Booth nr: 10008

Level 1, Hall 1E

Coterie Nr 2.indd 1 8/30/2013 2:50:20 PM

Visit us at Coterie, Booth 6430

Daily Front Row per Coterie.indd 1 28/08/13 17:07

First things first! Why is Sonia by Sonia Rykiel relaunching?We wanted to embed the brand in other significant places beyond Paris.What kind of gal wears the diffusion label?The Sonia by Sonia Rykiel girl is a contemporary French girl who goes out, is excited by life, and is intensely focused on the now. She’s into street style. In the latest collection, the look gets a bit more androgynous. Sounds very different from your grandmother’s original namesake line! What’s new for the hip offshoot line?It has a refreshed flagship in Paris, a new logo, and a new website. Sounds digitally savvy! So what is the SBSR girl’s favorite form of social media?She does it all! But to her, Instagram is the best. Where can New Yorkers snag the collection? Kirna Zabete and Shopbop.com. If this new girl was hanging out in New York on any given Saturday, what would she be doing?She would definitely go to the MoMA, the Brooklyn Flea, and Landmark Sunshine Cinema. She would be going from Brooklyn to Harlem looking for the newest exhibition; she’d go to galleries in Chelsea and shop at Kirna Zabete. She’s a girl who likes a bit of everything. Oh, and she’d go to Ladurée for macarons!If she were in Paris, would she choose Left Bank or Right Bank?Left Bank, but there’s so much going on over on the Right Bank—it’s really cosmopolitan, cool, and arty. She would be traveling to both banks with a big sense of freedom. Tell us about the silhouettes and the color palettes for the Spring season.It’s very fresh, graphic, and colorful. The fabrics highlight the body, but they aren’t tight or constraining. It’s a new sense of sensuality. The colors are very intense and there are a lot of stripes, baby cats, heart prints, and pastel colors. It is strong, but shows softness.How long have you been involved in the company in the U.S.?It’s been three years. I’ve been involved a lot of my life, obviously, because I grew up in this world and saw the whole evolution. I think I really

understand the demographic, and I love the brand. It’s really wonderful to bring this beautiful French universe to Americans. I think they’re really receptive to it.When you’re in New York, do you frequent French restos for a dose of home?There are a couple of French places in New York, but I love American culture! That’s why I came here. I love going to very American places that you would probably think are so uncool, like speakeasies and diners. Those are the things that make me dream about America. I go back to Paris enough so thatI

can enjoy New York for what it is. There’s such diversity in New York...it would be such a shame to just go to the French places!What are your Parisian haunts?I always go to The Cartier Foundation for Contemporary Art in the 14th arrondissement. They usually have amazing artists; it’s kind of like a small Georges Pompidou. I learned about a lot of artists for the first time there, because it was close to where I lived as a little girl. I also go to the Musée d’Orsay and The Centre Pompidou because they always have interesting exhibitions. And beyond the museum scene? I always go to my hairdresser, Delphine Courteille, who’s on the Right Bank. She is a longtime friend and she does my mom’s hair, my grandmother’s hair, and my hair. She used to do photoshoots, but she opened her own salon, Studio 34. I like to go to La Closerie des Lilas, a very nice restaurant owned by Café de Flore. Also, I love going to le Jardin du Luxembourg to relax and walk around.Besides your Paris jaunts, your father, Simon Burstein, is based

in London as the CEO of Browns. You must do a lot of traveling! How many stamps do you have in your passport?I have so many, you have no idea! I’m always afraid of losing it. I have no more space!Your grandmother rose to fame thanks to her knits! What’s your favorite?I really love the new sweaters for Fall/Winter, designed by our new artistic director, Geraldo da

Conceiçao. He did a beautiful interpretation. So will Sonia by Sonia Rykiel get a Paris runway slot of its own?It will be part of what’s going to happen in the future...

FA S H I O N W E E K DA I LY. C O MP O R T R A I T : B E T H

G A R R A B R A N T ; L O O K B O O K : C O U R T E S Y

As the U.S. PR Director for Sonia Rykiel and Sonia by Sonia Rykiel, Lola Rykiel epitomizes the label founded by her brilliant grand-mère. With a big relaunch on the docket and a stylish family legacy to uphold, how’s the New York-based chicster keeping her Parisian cool? The full scoop, right this way! BY DENA SILVER

Oooh Lola!Booth: 1512, level 3

Booth 9616

[email protected]

Tel: 954.578.5687Fax: 954.578.4431

www.planetclothingonline.com

What are you showing at Coterie, Karen?We’ll be showing several new groups. Urban Jungle is a flower story with animal prints. Cosmic Code is our collaboration with Anna Sui: it’s a trip around the world, with Masai and Burmese elements. Lastly, Fashion Tribe is an ethnic-inspired group, for which we bought the beads from this guy, Mohammed, who supports his whole village in Africa. Where is he located exactly?I have no idea! I have his beeper number, I beep him, and he brings beads. Wild! Going back a bit, what was the first jewelry piece you designed?Our first pieces were crystals strung onto suede. We called it Erickson Beamon Crystal To Wear. That was officially my first line.Did you have any formal training as a jewelry designer?I studied at this crazy school, the College for Creative Studies in Michigan, and I majored in oil painting. The only class that I really didn’t excel in in was my jewelry class. I got A’s in everything except jewelry making. Isn’t that funny?Yes! Why do you think that was?I saw things differently than other people. I was never normal.Did your Detroit upbringing have an influence on your designs?One hundred percent! Detroit was the epicenter of rock ‘n’ roll. What do you think about it now?Well, things haven’t been going so great there, have they? Hopefully the city is going to crumble...and then come back to life.Like a phoenix?Exactly. Maybe the city had to get that bad for people to get it together. I believe that Detroit will rise again.

That’s the spirit! So, how famil-iar are you with the Coterie scene?We’ve been doing Coterie since Coterie started! How did you end up as a Coterie pioneer of sorts?Someone told me that a new show was starting and that I needed to be a part of it. He told me it was going to change trade shows. Once I heard that, I jumped on it immediately. We were one of the original exhibitors.How long ago was that?I’m pretty bad with numbers; let’s just say it was a long time ago!How has Coterie changed?It’s gotten bigger and bigger, but the most amazing thing about it is that no matter how big it’s gotten, they’ve kept to their core concept of “fashion first.” That’s why I love showing there. I find Coterie to be so relevant. Your designs are quite the statement pieces! What’s your take on delicate jewelry?I collaborated with Donna Karan at one point, and we wanted to make pieces so intimate and per-sonal you’d never take them off. We called it Sleeping Jewelry. The concept was that you’d

sleep in jewelry and never take it off. It was a huge fad in the Nineties. I loved making little things, but I don’t like to be limited by size and structure. I’m really tiny; I’m only five feet tall. So I don’t want to be limited in my designs. I think big; I married the tallest guy I could find! My husband is

six foot five.Do you plan your outfits around your jewelry or vice versa?Neither! I don’t plan out that stuff. I’m an Aquarius, so any kind of commit-

ment scares me. Even committing to something the night before is too much planning ahead.How important is family to your business?It’s all family! My daughter Monique Erickson is my brand manager and muse. My other daughter, Mandie Erickson, runs Seventh House PR. And my hus-band Eric Erickson works with me on Erickson Beamon also.

Any other collaboration as of late?We teamed up with Aerin Lauder last year, and the latest collection has already shipped. We had access to all of Estée Lauder’s jewelry...and that lady knew how

to dress! There’s this one necklace that Aerin really wanted us to find inspiration in. So we had this huge, 24-karat gold necklace that was probably worth $300,000, traveling back and forth in taxis with an intern! When can we expect to see round two of your ready-to-wear line?Hopefully, if we move in time, we’ll be presenting another ready-to-wear collection in February of this year. We got hit really badly by hurricane Sandy. My whole office was under eight feet of water, and we lost everything: the sewing machines, the patterns, the fabrics. In December we’ll be taking an additional 4,000 square feet, and we’ll restore my workroom. We’re resilient.

FA S H I O N W E E K DA I LY. C O MS T i L L S : C o u r T e S Y

Romancing the StoneS Erickson Beamon has collaborated with the biggest names in the fashion biz—think Givenchy, Donna Karan, and Zac Posen—but Karen Beamon, co-founder of the bauble brand, hasn’t forgotten about her Detroit roots. Returning to Coterie for her 27th year, this tiny designer’s joaillerie continues to pack a big punch!BY DENA SILVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO

Karen Beamon and her daughters Mandie and Monique erickson


BOOTH 2933 www.lamarquecollection.com

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How long have you been coming to Serendipity?Since I was at Parsons! Forever! Steven Meisel and I would come to get hot chocolate.You and Steven went to school together. Did you know there was something special about him?Oh, yeah. He was so beautiful. He came walking into my drawing class and I was like, “Who is that?” He asked me to the lunchroom to come sit with him and I was like, “Are you kidding?” What do you think of his work and infl uence today?He’s a genius. When you look at his body of work, it’s mind-blowing. He outdoes himself every time—the discoveries he’s made with models and the careers he’s made. He’s a force.You also have a long history with one of the founding partners of Serendipity, Mr. Bruce…I was scared of him. You can imagine how dashing he was with his black hair and moustache. As I got older, we’ve gotten to be friendly and go out to eat together. What do you normally get here?The young chicken sandwich with Irish soda bread. Your fi rst show had Naomi Campbell in it. Do tell!She’s probably walked in more shows for me than any other model. She and Linda Evangelista helped me get all the other models and they would wear my dresses. It got to the point where I heard Karl [Lagerfeld] was complaining, “Who is this Anna?” That gave me the confi dence that maybe I could do something. How about the new crop of models?When I started, it was the height of the supermodel. There was a reason they were supermodels. When they put on your clothes, it was magic. They then would say, “Why is Naomi in front of me? I don’t want to go out after her. I should go in front of her!” They’d look on the board and count how many looks the other models were wearing. They’d beg for another outfi t. It was so nerve-wracking. Now

most of the models don’t look at the board. Are you still in touch with Naomi?We had lunch this summer and we text a lot. Do you miss the early days?Yeah. Ignorance is bliss and you don’t really know what you’re getting yourself into. It wasn’t so bottom line back then. It’s very different now!There was more forgiveness. I feel bad for the designers starting out now. It’s grueling. You need big investment bankers now. I started my business in my apartment.

You launched your cosmetics line in 1999. Was that scary at the time?It was a natural progression for me. They wanted my cosmetics to look like accessories, not just a beauty product. I loved that, because I’m obsessive about

packaging.Tell us about your new perfume.

It’s called La Vie de Bohème and it’s our 14th perfume. For years I’ve always worn Secret

Wish, which we launched nine years ago, but this could be the new one for me. You’ve been a big advocate of fashion

staying in the garment district…All the uniqueness in New York City that made

it special is disappearing. It’s turning into a giant mall. The New York that I love had

quirky places like this, neighborhoods where you could go for fl owers or Spanish food. It’s all getting homogenized.

Do you ever attend any other shows during Fashion Week?Sometimes. If somebody comes into my offi ce and says I should look at so and so, I’ll look at it. I always like to see what Marc Jacobs is doing, because that’s always so exciting and I can’t wait to go shopping! I’m more excited about the European designers, though. What about the new generation?It’s going to be harder and harder for them to do well unless they get substantial fi nancial backing and develop a brand identity. In this day and age, so much of it is bottom line and numbers. It’s a little

scary. That’s happened to everything from baseball to art. Everything that used to be a pastime is now just big business. There’s too much product now. I can’t imagine how a new company can do that.How do you feel about the rumors of the fashion world moving to Hudson Yards?It remains to be seen. It depends on how much of the craftsmanship and tradition they can still maintain. Is it only going to be showrooms? Is there not going to be any actual making of clothing? Are the rents going to be so prohibitive that nobody can really manufacture here anymore? What happens to the industry? Does it turn out like [it did in] England and all the designers have to go elsewhere? Probably. Why aren’t more designers talking about this?Because most designers make clothes overseas. Lastly, are you going to get dessert?We can share something! I rarely get to go out to eat for lunch, so the frozen hot chocolate is a real treat.

Who knew Anna Sui was obsessed with Serendipity? We sipped a frozen hot chocolate with the fashion icon and talked Meisel, Naomi, and living la vie bohème. BY EDDIE ROCHE PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO


SUI-SPOT

F I R S T V I E W


Your skills are impressive! Are you going to leave us

and join Dancing with the Stars?Absolutely. We’ve scheduled that in for

2042. [laughs] It’s so much fun though, right? The thing with swing is the man leads, and because I run my own company, telling everyone what to do all day, it’s actually a nice reverse to come and dance, and [have

him] indicating what I should be doing. I fi nd that really liberating. Is it going to be a dip or a rock back?What made you decide to take the lessons?I always wanted to do it. Did you ever see the movie Swing Kids? It’s brilliant. It’s about these Jewish kids in

Germany during the Second World War, and they would

go do big swing dances. In Germany, in those times, they were really frowned upon,

and in the end it gets busted up by the Hitler Youth. It’s kind of got a lot of dark undertones. But it’s a fascinating movie and I just always thought the swing dancing looked like so much fun. So what’s your history on the dance fl oor? I danced ballet until I was about 19. I loved it! I stopped for awhile, when I was a pre-teenager—you know how

boys and things distract—but then I went back at it when I was 16. I often reference dance studios in the architecture of

our stores, or just generally. Dance studios are really

happy places to be. There’s something

about the vibe of a dance studio. Flashdance was my favorite movie! When I did jazz I would tape my foot like Jennifer Beals’ character. She used to tape her foot and wore black

leotards. We couldn’t get them in New Zealand in the Eighties so I had to wear, like, big black knickers. I would put that record on in my room and dance. It’s always been such a great creative outlet for me.

When was the last time you went out dancing?

I was just talking about this with my instructor. He has these big dance nights, but I can’t get my husband to come out dancing with me! So, I’m looking

for a partner. Your husband’s not into it?He is! It’s a great couples thing. My husband

loves dressing up. He always wears a hat, tie, and linen suit. It would be right up his alley.

What does he do?He’s an illustrator. He’s a bit of a character.Where did you two meet?We met at a bar called Sapphire Lounge. Do you remember it? You’re probably a bit younger. Everyone seems a bit younger now. It was downin the Lower East Side, in the Nineties. He was a DJ there. Does he work from home?[Laughs] Are you just curious about my husband? He works from home. We have three kids. He and the babysitter take care of them, and he illustrates while they’re at school.Got it. So where do you go out dancing now?And where did you used to go?We went to Twilo. It gets my heart racing thinking about it. You could smoke then. Everyone would just be smoking away. The theater for Sleep No More is in the building where Twilo was. When I went to the show I was having this weird, spatially shifting moment. I thought if I walked outside now it could be 1996! I thought if I could wish it hard enough, I’d open that door and I’d be on another plane.

When you aren’t designing or dancing, you’re an obsessive...reader? I read a book called The Interestings by Meg Wolitzer. Don’t know if you’ve heard of it. I wouldn’t put it in my pile of highly-recommended. I think it should be called The Uninterestings. I did read a fascinating novel, Life After Life by Kate Atkinson. It’s about that whole sliding door theme, like there’s a path you can take and you can go that way, or what your whole life would have been if you had turned this direction as opposed to the other.What would have been your sliding doors story if you didn’t become a designer?Defi nitely something in a creative fi eld, like the costumes for the NYC Ballet, or a makeup artist. Let’s sidetrack and talk about your collection. It’s what I call modern romantic. I had seen a movie over the summer about Renoir, and there was a line he said, to paraphrase, “There’s so much ugliness in the world, why not do something pretty?” And that’s how I feel. My collections are always very feminine. But,

defi nitely, my girl is wanting it to be more modern and slightly tomboy. You know, I always like things to be a little bit punky and little bit tomboy, but still sort of with the modern romantic approach. Are you still having fun?We’re in a really good space at the moment. You go through times as a designer where the momentum of fashion shifts. I’m always known for very feminine stuff. I remember Kal Ruttenstein was such a big supporter of mine, and he once said, “What happens if Annie Hall comes back into fashion?” And I would think, “Why would you say that?” But it’s true and he had seen it a hundred times. You adjust and you move. I want to be a better designer and give my customer something she didn’t know she wanted.Why did Kal say that to you?!I think he was just being fl ip. Just being fl ip!

TAYLOR MADE MOVES

Who knew Rebecca Taylor has been dancing since she was a teenager?! The Daily joined the New Zealand native for a swing dance lesson at Chelsea’s Swing Studios, where we found out what’s tapping her toes these days. Kid ain’t bad! BY EDDIE ROCHEPHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO

FA S H I O N W E E K DA I LY. C O M R U N W AY : F I R S T V I E W


Your motto is “17 to 70” and you design dresses up to “queen size.” Talk to us about your fascination with size and age.No matter the age or size, a woman wants to feel comfortable while looking beautiful. I enjoy designing dresses that appeal to both young and old, as well as all shapes and sizes. I spend many hours ensuring each dress is perfectly tailored and use luxurious linings and stretch fabrics for their comfort and ease. The fi rst item you ever designed was your sister’s wedding dress. Was she a tough customer?Luckily, it was easy because she trusts my design sense 100 percent. It was an unforgettable experience to be able to share that moment with her.You began showing in New York in 2007. What do think has changed the most about the fashion industry in the past fi ve years? The Internet and social media have become increasingly important. How have your designs changed?My collections are more tightly

edited and cohesive than in seasons past. Curvaceous celebrities love your gowns. Why do you think that is?I have always focused on fi t. The placement of a drape or pleat is crucial to how a dress will fl atter a fi gure, and I work diligently to achieve this. Who are your fashion heros?Madame Grès, for her exquisite draping and

Cristóbal Balenciaga for transforming the silhouette.

Is there anyone you’d really like to see in one of your gowns? I’d love to work with Lily Collins on a red carpet moment. That would be fun.This year marks your 30th anniversary

in the business. What are you doing to celebrate? We partnered with a

blogger named Chriselle Lim on a 30th anniversary collection and

shot the look book in the Santa Ynez Valley Wine Country. It turned out beautifully.We saw you on Instagram reading Vogue’s September issue. Is that your favorite magazine?I read them all!How would you describe the SS14 collection?Feminine, yet commanding. You’ve said that to avoid being a “starving artist” in Japan, you ran away to Los Angeles when you were 25. What was your favorite thing to do in Cali?I loved, and still love, going to museums to appreciate art and get inspired. During your student apprenticeship, you worked with costume designer Bill Whitten creating costumes for performers like Elton John, Stevie Wonder, and The Jackson 5. Any celeb encounters you’d like to share?Not really, no. To me, they were just ordinary people and I had no clue how important they really were in pop culture. Maybe it’s because of my not knowing that my apprenticeship with Bill lasted as long as it did. What’s one thing very few people know about you?I like cooking. What do you like about working with Octavia Spencer?Octavia is as genuine and loyal as they come, which is very inspiring, especially in Hollywood. We have a mutual admiration for each other. I am overjoyed for her success.

FA S H I O N W E E K DA I LY. C O M F I R S T V I E W ( 6 ) ; G E T T Y I M A G E S ( 2 )

When shapely celebs want to strut their stuff, they turn to Tadashi Shoji, the king of glamour! As he celebrates 30 years in the gown game, we quizzed him about his devotion to craft, exceptional staying power, and newest muse, Octavia Spencer. BY JULIE ZIGOS

Oscar winner Octavia Spencer

“Every design he sends me has been a dream gown.”

-Octavia Spencer

Warning:CURVES Ahead BOOTH: 11403, LEVEL 1

Javits Center, Level 4 - Booth 210 // joesjeans.com


Confession: Of all of the iconic supermodels you’ve shot, who’s the most fun to shoot with?If I answer that question, I would be killed by tomorrow.What do you think of the modern mania for retouching? The ease of using Photoshop shows a contemporary image of women that is totally unacceptable. Future generations will ask themselves what our problem was and why we loved to create these monsters of perfection.What would you change about the fashion business?I would wish for less marketing and more “naiveté,” knowing that I’m

the one who’s “naive” here. There is this ruth-less copying of the people with talent from the people with less talent. You see photographers working in their studios with other photographers’ pictures on the walls for inspiration. Nobody just sits down and thinks what he wants to do! All these images will not last long. What do you make of celebs replacing models

on the covers of fashion magazines? Covers are there to sell magazines. I think ac-tresses are more interesting than models at this moment, but that might change again. How did Vladimir approach you? We’ve known each other through Carine [Roit-feld] and from amfAR events in Cannes. I was impressed to see him open his gallery, and by the shows he has done. When he came to us proposing a show, we did not think long! He’s a great young spirit. What’s your favorite photo in the show?This might change from day to day! But I think my favorite portrait in the show is of Amber Valletta looking down on Fifth Avenue from a Rockefeller Center balcony. There is an incredible magic in her face.Will your kids pursue photography?Yes, I have a son who is an art photographer; he works with his girlfriend under the name “Lucie and Simon.” They are both very strong and pas-sionate. He’s trying hard not to be known as my son, but his images are amazing and worlds away from mine. What do you like to shoot when you’re not shooting fashion?I’ve been working for more than a year on a very special project called “Testament,” which is about fi lmed portraits of death row inmates who have no possibility for appeals anymore. The inmates are fi lmed for 35 minutes very close up, while looking in a small mirror. No words are used, no talking, no explaining, no questions, no answers. What was your Fashion Week schedule like this season ? I don’t go to fashion shows anymore, with very few exceptions. I try not to get my inspiration from the fashion shows and even less from the magazines. This helps me to have a different angle for my inspiration.

THROUGH LINDBERGH’SLENS

Since shooting Anna’s legendary fi rst Vogue cover circa 1988, the inimitable Peter Lindbergh has photographed everyone from Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, and Linda Evangelista to Madonna. A crop of 35 shots hand-selected by the icon will be on display at Valdimir Re-stoin Roitfeld’s UES gallery at 5A East 78th St. through October 4. So how does he feel about the perils of Pho-toshop, all those celeb magazine covers, and the newest crowd of young artists? BY ALEXANDRA ILYASHOV & PAIGE REDDINGER

G E T T Y I M A G E S ( 2 )

early spring | spring 2014

Coterie Booth #6245

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FA S H I O N W E E K DA I LY. C O M G E T T Y ( 7 ) ; B FA N Y C . C O M ( 4 ) ; F I R S T V I E W . C O M ( 6 ) ; P AT R I C K M C M U L L A N . C O M ( 3 ) ; S H U T T E R S T O C K

Fall is in the air, darlings, and we’re in the mood for some

major makeovers. Are vous?

CHIC-OVERS

Viva Italia! Donatella Prada, meet Miuccia Versace!

Billionaire brandsmithTory Burch in Ashish.

Fashion imperatrix Anna Wintourin DSquared2.

Super-duo Stefano Gabbana & Domenico Dolce in their own designs.

Mayor Bloomberg’s ripped up the traffi c lanes, why not this Emporio Armani T-shirt?

Martha Stewart’s new Match.com outfi t.

Michael Kors’ mullet-chic look is perfect for La Linds. Business up top, party down below!

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The Daily Coterie

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