The Complete Cook's Country TV Show Cookbook: Every Recipe, Every Ingredient Testing, Every...

THECOMPLETECOOK’SCOUNTRY

TVSHOWCOOKBOOK

EVERYRECIPEEVERYINGREDIENTTESTINGEVERYEQUIPMENTRATING

FROM

ALL7SEASONS

BYTHEEDITORSATAMERICA’STESTKITCHENPHOTOGRAPHYBYKELLER+KELLER

Copyright©2014byTheEditorsatAmerica’sTestKitchen

All rights reserved. No part of this bookmay be reproduced or -transmitted in anymanner whatsoeverwithoutwrittenpermissionfromthepublisher,except in thecaseofbriefquotationsembodied incriticalarticlesorreviews.

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TheCompleteCook’sCountryTVShowCookbookEveryRecipe,EveryIngredientTesting,EveryEquipmentRatingFromAll7Seasons

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Contents

PREFACE

WELCOMETOCOOK’SCOUNTRY

NavigatingthisE-Book

MasterRecipeListing

CHAPTER1AsGoodasGrandma’s

CHAPTER2Fork-in-the-RoadFavorites

CHAPTER3SteakhouseSpecials

CHAPTER4OurSundayBest

CHAPTER5Tex-MexFavorites

CHAPTER6EverybodyLovesItalian

CHAPTER7TheStateofGrilling

CHAPTER 8 Riseand-Shine Breakfasts and

Breads

CHAPTER9GreatAmericanCakesandCookies

CHAPTER 10 OldFashioned Fruit Desserts andPuddings

CHAPTER11SaveRoomforPie

SHOPPINGFOREQUIPMENT

STOCKINGYOURPANTRY

EPISODEDIRECTORY

CONVERSIONSANDEQUIVALENCIES

INDEX

NavigatingthisE-Book

ThiseBookincludesaTableofContentsthatallowsyoutojumptoanychapter.Andeachchapterhasitsowntableofcontentswithlinkstoeveryrecipeinthechapter.We have also created a Recipe Index that lists all the recipes in the book,

divided by chapter, in one place. You can access the Recipe Index from theTable of Contents. (It also appears at the end of the book.) Each title in theRecipeIndexisalinkthatwilltakeyoudirectlytothatrecipe.Thiscookbookisfilledwithsidebars; throughout thebookthereare links to

thismaterialwhereappropriate.Most eBook reading devices also offer a search function that allows you to

typeinexactlywhatyouarelookingfor.Pleasereadthedocumentationforyourparticular eBook reader for more information on its search function and anyothernavigationalfeaturesitmayoffer.

Preface

ThefarmhousewhereCook’sCountryisfilmedwasoriginallypartoftheSheldonfarmandlaterbecameknownastheCarverhouse.Thehouserequired

majorrenovationandwasalsomovedback12feetfromthemainroad.

DearHomeCook,ForyearsIhaddrivenbytheCarverhouse(thecurrenthomeofCook’sCountryfrom America’s Test Kitchen) when it was in a state of serious disrepair.Althoughjust12feetbackfromtheroad,itwashiddeninajungleofbushesandpoplar,theclapboardswerechippedandstained,andthefoundationwassinkingdownbadlyontherightside.Buthavingsomeexperienceinspectingoldhouses,Inoticedthattherooflinewasstraightandthatthelinesweregood.LittledidIrealize that someday Iwouldpurchase theold farmhouse and strip it back toprettymuchthebones.Itneededathoroughrehabilitation,exceptforthestraight

rooflineofcourse!Today,weusetheCarverhouseforshootingCook’sCountryfromAmerica’s

TestKitchenonpublictelevision.Itisjustdownfromthepostoffice(whichisabout the size of a 10-yard dumpster), across the street from one of threechurches in our town, and a few doors up from the town library, where, insummermonths,youcangoseeamovieonSaturdaynight.Itisalsoastone’sthrow from the firehouse where we celebrate Old Home Day in August andwherenumerousbarbecuesandchickendinnersaregiventhroughouttheyeartoraisemoneyfortheall--volunteersquad.Allofthishistoryisbywayofsayingthatthisisarealhousewitharealpast,

not some set constructed for a television show. The same can be said for themagazine,Cook’s Country, and the TV show. This is real regional Americanfood,fromthepastaswellasthepresent,anditcomesfromarealplacewhereitwas cooked by your grandmother or my great uncle. As they say in the artbusiness,thisfoodhas“provenance.”

Thisisoneofthethreechurchesintownanditsitsrightacrossthestreetfrom

theCarverhouse.

Ourgoal is toassembleandrehabilitateAmerica’sculinarypastandpresentby seeking out lost and regional recipes—ColoradoGreenChili,NatchitochesMeatPies, “Impossible”HamandCheesePie, ItalianCreamCake—andbringthemup todate and freshen themup for anewaudience.This isn’t “meals inminutes” or four-ingredient suppers—this is real cooking for real cooks.Sometimes we make up new favorites such as Skillet Lasagna or find betterwaystouseappliancessuchastheslowcooker,butthecookingwedoatCook’sCountry,justliketheoldhouse,startswithagoodfoundation.For almost 50 years, I have seen the sun rise overMinister Hill and gone

fishingintheGreenRiver.IhaveseenCharlieBentleyandhisfatherbeforehimdriveby inanoldFordpickup. Ihavewatched theyellow farmhousewhere Ihaddinnerasakidgothroughchangesoverthedecadesfromworkingfarm,tohomestead,toarentalpropertywithclotheshangingonalineonthesideporch.

Thefarmhousealsohasahorsebarnonthepropertythatisbuiltonamarblefoundation.Alargedairybarninbackisinpoorshapebutisstillstanding.

Good recipes like good places have good bones and theywearwell. That’swhatthiscollectionofrecipesisallabout:notjustacompletecollectionofallofthe recipes that have appeared on our TV show alongwith an ingredient andequipmentshoppingguide,butagroupofdishesthattellastoryaboutwhoweareandwherewecamefrom.Nowthattheserecipeshavebeenputthroughourexhaustivetestkitchenprocess,youcanalsorestassuredthatthefoodwillturnoutjustright,eventhefirsttimeyoumakeit.As a kid, I remember sitting in the front parlor of the yellow farmhouse

listeningtoFloydBentley,rheumyeyeslookingdownward,adeepcoughinhischest fromsmoking, tellstoryafterstoryabout thebrotherswhojackedadeerandgotcaught,or“LittleMan,”whowasbiggerthanarefrigerator,ortheoneabout theButler sisters,whohad just one pair of false teeth between them sotheytradedoffeverySaturdaynight.All of the recipes in this volume have stories, too, and yet they have been

updated, tested,andsprucedup towork inyourkitchen tonight.Thefoodwillsurpriseyouwhenyougetagoodtasteofit;it’sasmodernandfreshasthedayitwasfirstputtogether.

Ioftensitontheporchduringbreaksinthefilming—oneofthemanybenefitsoffilminginarealfarmhouse!

That reminds me of the story of a farmer during the Depression. He wentdowntoHoosickFallstogetbreakfastatthedinerandhebroughtalongtwobullcalves.HeleftthembythesideoftheroadinamakeshiftpenwithaFREEsignonit.Afterbreakfast,hewentoutandfoundthreecalves,nottwo.Hecouldn’tevengivethemaway!Alotofrecipesarelikethatthesedays;theyaresocommonplacethatnobody

wants them.But aswith a good horse or awell-trained dog, once you find agoodone,youneverletgo.That’showwefeelaboutthiscollectionofcountry

recipes—onceyoutryafew,you’llstickbyus.It’swortheverymouthful.Sothat’sourstory.That’swherewecomefrom.Andthat’swhywecareso

muchaboutthefoodinthisbookandonourtelevisionshow.WeinviteyoutotakeatasteofourpastandourpresentandtojoinusinarenewedappreciationofwhattheAmericankitchenhastooffer.

Cordially,ChristopherKimballFounderandEditor,Cook’sIllustratedandCook’sCountryHost,America’sTestKitchenandCook’sCountryfromAmerica’sTestKitchen

WELCOMETOCOOK’SCOUNTRY

This book has been tested,written, and edited by the folks atAmerica’s TestKitchen,averyreal2,500-square-footkitchenlocatedjustoutsideofBoston.Itis the home of Cook’s Country and Cook’s Illustrated magazines and is theMonday-through-Friday destination for more than three dozen test cooks,editors, foodscientists, tasters,andcookwarespecialists.Ourmission is to testrecipes over and over again untilwe understand how andwhy theywork anduntilwearriveatthe“best”version.

Filmedinarenovated1806farmhouse,Cook’sCountryfromAmerica’sTestKitchenfeaturesthebestregionalhomecookinginthecountryandreliesonthesamepractical,no-nonsenseapproachtocookingthathasmadeCook’sCountrymagazinesosuccessful.ChristopherKimball, the founder and editor ofCook’sCountry andCook’s

Illustratedmagazines,isthehostoftheshowandasksthequestionsyoumightask.It’sthejobofourchefs,JuliaCollinDavison,BridgetLancaster,andErinMcMurrer, to demonstrate our recipes.The chefs showChriswhatworks andwhatdoesn’t,andtheyexplainwhy.Intheprocess,theydiscuss(andshowyou)the best examples from our development process as well as the worst. JackBishopcontinuestochallengeChristolive-tastingsofkitchenstapleslikeeggnoodles, blue cheese dressing, and orange juice,whileAdamRied reveals thetestkitchen’stopchoicesforequipment,includingcookiesheets,slowcookers,aprons,andmore.

Althoughjustsixcooksandeditorsappearonthetelevisionshow,another50peopleworkedtomaketheshowareality.ExecutiveproducerMelissaBaldinoconceived and developed each episode along with co-executive producerStephanieStenderandleadproductionassistantKaitlinHammond.LynneOlverandMegRaglandassistedwithallthehistoricalreciperesearch.DebbyPaddockassistedwithphotographyresearch.Along with the on-air crew, executive chefs Erin McMurrer, Rebeccah

Marsters, and Dan Zuccarello helped plan and organize the 13 televisionepisodesshotinSeptember2013andranthe“backkitchen,”whereallthefoodthat appears on camera originated. Hannah Crowley, Amy Graves, and LisaMcManusorganizedthetastingandequipmentsegments.

During filming, chefs Danielle DeSiato-Hallman, Daniel Cellucci, SarahGabriel,LanLam,ChristieMorrison,SarahMullins,DanSouza,DianeUnger,CristinWalsh,andMeaghenWalshcookedallthefoodneededonset.KitchenassistantsShaneDrips,JenniferHernandez,andEricaSheridanalsoworkedlonghours. Chefs Alexxa Grattan, Ashley Moore, and Stephanie Pixley helpedcoordinatethekitchenwiththetelevisionsetbyreadyingprops,equipment,and

food.Assistant test kitchendirectorLeahRovner and senior kitchen assistantsMichelleBlodget,AlexxaGrattan,andMerylMacCormackwerechargedwithmakingsurealltheingredientsandkitchenequipmentweneededwereonhand.SpecialthankstodirectorJanMaliszewski,directorofphotography,Michael

McEachern, and editor and assistant director Travis Marshall. We alsoappreciate the hard work of the video production team, including RenaMaliszewski, Alisa Placas Frutman, Ken Fraser, Stephen Hussar, TomRobertson, Peter Dingle, Roger Macie, Gilles Morin, Joe Christofori, BrendaCoffey, JimHirsch, JeffHamel, JeremyBond,BobHirsch,EricEngler,MarcJameson, Ken Bauer, Kelly Emerson, Eric Joslin, and Brian Depaul Carey.ThanksalsotoDexterMediaandNickDakoulas,oursecondunitdirector.

WealsowouldliketothankNancyBocchino,BaraLevin,andVictoriaYuenatWGBH,andJudyBarlowatAmericanPublicTelevision,whichpresentstheshow.DCS by Fisher & Paykel, Chef’s Catalog, and Valley Fig Growers helped

underwritetheshowandwethankthemfortheirsupport.WealsothankAnneTraficante,KateMay,andMorganRyanforhandlingunderwriterrelationsand

DeborahBroideformanagingpublicity.

ApronsweremadebyCrookedBrook.PropsweredesignedanddevelopedbyRossMacDonald.ThankstomusicsupervisorChristopherSabec,AaronRedner,and the band Hot Buttered Rum. Thanks also to kitchen designer PaulWorthington.We also thank Doug Armstrong, Axel and Donna Blomberg, Charles and

Rachael Armstrong, Fred Pickering, Al Ducci’s, Rupert Rising Bread,Sherman’s Country Store, Depot 62, Dutton Farms, Someday Farm, theCommunity Food Cupboard, George’s Dry Cleaning Service, T&N Builders,Ronnie Savenor of Savenor’s Market in Boston, Massachusetts, VermontKitchenStore,rkMiles,ScottDickyandCherylSmithofShaw’ssupermarketinManchester, Vermont, J.K. Adams, Mettowee Mill Nursery, Rupert UnitedMethodistChurch,BarrowsHouse,TheDorset Inn,RocheBros.E-commerceDepartmentinWestRoxbury,Massachusetts,andWholeFoodsMarket.

CHAPTER 1: AS GOOD ASGRANDMA’S

MacaroniandCheesewithTomatoes

BestPotluckMacaroniandCheese

CreamyCheeseGrits

ChickenFlorentine

ChickenDivan

GlazedMeatloaf

MeatloafwithMushroomGravy

SwissSteakwithTomatoGravy

SalisburySteak

Milk-CanSupper

Pan-FriedPorkChops

SmotheredPorkChops

Cider-BraisedPorkChops

CrispyFishStickswithTartarSauce

StrawberryPretzelSalad

Nostalgiaisn’ttheonlyreasonmostofusthinkourGrandmother’s(ormother’s)dishestastedbest.Mostlikelyourforebearsinthekitchenreallywereexpertsatwhattheycooked—afterall,theycookedthesamedishesoverandoveragain.Itcan seemhard tobelieve today,butmosthomecookscookedoutof the samebook (or two)during their entire lifetime:books likeTheJoyofCooking,TheBostonCooking-SchoolCookbook(laterknownasTheFannieFarmerCookingSchool Cookbook), The Settlement Cook Book, and just a handful of others.Outside of cookbooks, newsstands didn’t bulge with dozens of cookingmagazines either. Women were more likely to turn to women’s servicemagazines, such as Ladies Home Journal and Good Housekeeping, whichtackledallmannerofdomesticissues,notjustcooking.Thesepublicationscameon the sceneafter theCivilWarandwerea terrific resourcewhen familywasnotathandtoshowanewbridetheropesofrunningahome.Thus,withaccessto a fairly small universe of recipes,most homecooksprepared the food theygrewupeating—-macaroniandcheese,meatloaf,andsmotheredporkchops—andalongtheway,clippedtheoccasionalrecipefromanewspaper,magazine,orbackof thebox,oftenfancyrestaurantdishes thatbecamesimplifiedforhomecooking,suchasChickenDivanandChickenFlorentine.Inthischapter,wegiveyou those recipes, made as good as we remember—and maybe even a littlebetter.

MACARONIANDCHEESEWITHTOMATOES

1 poundelbowmacaroni

Saltandpepper

1(28-ounce)canpetitedicedtomatoes

6 tablespoonsunsaltedbutter

½ cupall-purposeflour¼

teaspooncayennepepper

cupshalf-and-half

MacaroniandCheesewithTomatoesWHYTHISRECIPEWORKS To pack ourmac and cheesewith bright

tomato flavor, we discovered that undercooking the pasta and adding petitecanned diced tomatoes with their juices to the drained macaroni allowed themacaronitosoakupmoreofthetomatoflavor.Returningthepastatotheheatafterward allowed the noodles to absorb some of the tomato juice. Finally, toavoidacurdledsauce,weaddedfatintheformofhalf-and-half(cutwithsomechickenbroth)andamixofsharpandmildcheddarcheeses.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES8TO10

Letthefinisheddishrestfor10to15minutesbeforeyouserveit;otherwise,itwillbesoupy.

4

1 cupchickenbroth

1poundmildcheddarcheese,shredded(4cups)

8ouncessharpcheddarcheese,shredded(2cups)

1.Adjust oven rack tomiddleposition andheat oven to400degrees.Bring4quartswatertoboilinlargeDutchoven.Addmacaroniand1tablespoonsaltandcook,stirringoften,untiljustaldente,about6minutes.Drainpastaandreturntopot.Pourdicedtomatoeswiththeirjuicesoverpastaandstirtocoat.Cookovermedium-highheat,stirringoccasionally,untilmostofliquidisabsorbed,about5minutes.Setaside.

2.Meanwhile,meltbutter inmediumsaucepanovermediumheat.Stir inflourandcayenneandcookuntilgolden,about1minute.Slowlywhisk inhalf-and-halfandbrothuntilsmooth.Bringtoboil,reduceheattomedium,andsimmer,stirringoccasionally,untilmixture is slightly thickened,about15minutes.Offheat,whiskincheeses,1teaspoonsalt,and1teaspoonpepperuntilcheesesmelt.Poursauceovermacaroniandstirtocombine.

3.Scrapemixtureinto13by9-inchbakingdishsetinrimmedbakingsheetandbakeuntil topbegins tobrown,15 to20minutes.Let sit for10 to15minutesbeforeserving.

TO MAKE AHEAD: The macaroni and cheese can be made in advancethroughstep2.Scrapemixture into13by9-inchbakingdish,cool, layplasticwrapdirectlyonsurfaceofpasta,andrefrigerateforupto2days.Whenreadytobake, remove plastic, cover with aluminum foil, and bake for 30 minutes.Uncoverandbakeuntiltopisgoldenbrown,about15minutes.Letsitfor10to15minutesbeforeserving.

ANAUTOMATCLASSIC

Homecookshavelongputtheirstamponplain-Janemacaroniandcheese,stirringinsuchitemsas hot dogs or diced ham and peas. One appealing, old-fashioned variation, however, ispracticallyendangered:bakedmacaroniandcheesewithtomato.Thegeniusintherecipeisthatthe bright acid of the tomato cuts the richness of the cheese. Today, people of a certain ageremembertomatomacandcheesefondlyfromHornandHardart’sautomats.

Automats started in Germany in 1896 as a way to quickly feed hundreds of thousands ofworkersduring their lunchhour.The ideawasverymuch likea vendingmachine.Rather thanorderingtheirmealsthroughaserver,patronswoulddropcoinsintoaslottoopenaglassdoorinfrontofacompartmentholdingamenuitem.FrankHardartbroughtbacktheautomatideaafteravisit toGermany.Hardart, alongwith his partner, JosephB.Horn, hired an engineer to furthersimplifytheGermansystemsotheycouldtransformtheirtraditionallunchcounterintoanautomatin1902.

Asforoneoftheirmostpopularmenuitems,macaroniandcheesewithtomatoes,mostofushaveneverheardofit,muchlesstastedit.Automatsmaybeathingofthepast,butagoodrecipeformacaroniandcheeseshouldn’tbe.

BESTPOTLUCKMACARONIANDCHEESE

4slicesheartywhitesandwichbread,tornintoquarters

4tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,melted,plus4tablespoonsunsaltedbutter

¼

cupgratedParmesancheese

1 poundelbowmacaroni

Salt

5tablespoonsall-purposeflour

BestPotluckMacaroniandCheeseWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSUnlikemanymacaroniandcheeserecipes,

our Best Potluck Macaroni and Cheese is creamy, sturdy, and rich. Weprevented the sauce from separating and clumping when baked by usingevaporatedmilkandAmericancheese—thestabilizersintheseingredientskeptthe sauce from breaking, so that it emerged from the oven satiny smooth.Homemade bread crumbs, enriched with melted butter and Parmesan cheese,createdaflavorful,crisptopping.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES8TO10

BlockAmericancheesefromthedelicounterisbesthere,asprewrappedsinglesresultinadriermacandcheese.

3 (12-ounce)cansevaporatedmilk

2 teaspoonshotsauce

1 teaspoondrymustard

⅛

teaspoongroundnutmeg

8ouncesextra-sharpcheddarcheese,shredded(2cups)

5ouncesAmericancheese,shredded(1¼cups)

3ouncesMontereyJackcheese,shredded(¾cup)

1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Pulsebread, melted butter, and Parmesan in food processor until ground to coarsecrumbs,about8pulses.Transfertobowl.

2.Bring4quartswatertoboilinlargepot.Addmacaroniand1tablespoonsaltand cook, stirring often, until just al dente, about 6 minutes. Reserve ½ cupmacaronicookingwater, thendrainand rinsemacaroni incolanderundercoldrunningwater.Setaside.

3. Melt remaining 4 tablespoons butter in now-empty pot over medium-highheat.Stirinflourandcook,stirringconstantly,untilmixtureturnslightbrown,about1minute.Slowlywhisk inevaporatedmilk,hotsauce,mustard,nutmeg,and 2 teaspoons salt and cook until mixture begins to simmer and is slightlythickened, about 4 minutes. Off heat, whisk in cheeses and reserved cookingwateruntilcheesemelts.Stirinmacaroniuntilcompletelycoated.

4.Transfermixtureto13by9-inchbakingdishandtopevenlywithbread-crumbmixture.Bakeuntilcheeseisbubblingaroundedgesandtopisgoldenbrown,20to25minutes.Letsitfor5to10minutesbeforeserving.

TO MAKE AHEAD: The macaroni and cheese can be made in advancethroughstep3. Increaseamountof reservedmacaronicookingwater to1cup.Scrapemixtureinto13by9-inchbakingdish,cool,layplasticwrapdirectlyonsurfaceofpasta, and refrigerate forup to1day.Bread-crumbmixturemayberefrigerated for up to 2 days.When ready to bake, removeplastic, coverwithaluminum foil, andbake for30minutes.Uncover, sprinklebreadcrumbsovertop, and bake until topping is golden brown, about 20minutes longer. Let sitbeforeserving.

KEEPINGITTOGETHER

UsingalreadystabilizedingredientslikeAmericancheeseandevaporatedmilkensuresthatthischeesysaucedoesn’tbreakintheoven.

CREAMYCHEESEGRITS

½ cupfreshorfrozencornkernels3½

cupswater


4scallions,whitepartsminced,greenpartsslicedthin

1 cupmilk

½

CreamyCheeseGritsWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSGritsareasouthernstaple,buttheirappeal

canbelostinbland,glueyincarnations.Totakethisdown-homedishfromdulltodelicious,weneededtoworkonbothtextureandflavor.Replacingsomeofthecookingwaterwithmilkgaveacreamysweetnesstotheunadornedgrits.Asforthecheese,wefoundthatacombinationofMontereyJackandsharpcheddarlent both smoothness and pronounced cheesy flavor. To give the dish moredepth,wesautéedscallionwhitesandaddedrealpureedcornforanextraboostofcornflavor.Seethesidebarsthatfollowtherecipe.

SERVES4TO6

Thegritsarereadywhen theyaremostlycreamybutstill retaina littlebite. Ifthegritsgettoothick,whiskinalittlewater.Ifyouareusingfrozencorn,thawitfirst.

teaspoonhotsauce

Saltandpepper

1cupold-fashionedgrits

4ouncesMontereyJackcheese,shredded(1cup)

4ouncessharpcheddarcheese,shredded(1cup)

1.Pureecornand¼cupwaterinblenderuntilsmooth,about1minute;setaside.Melt2tablespoonsbutterinmediumsaucepanovermediumheat.Addscallionwhites and cook until softened, about 2 minutes. Stir in remaining 3¼ cupswater,milk,hotsauce,½teaspoonsalt,and½teaspoonpepperandbringtoboil.

2.Slowlywhiskgritsintosaucepanuntilnolumpsremain.Reduceheattolowandcook,stirringfrequently,untilthickandcreamy,about15minutes.

3. Off heat, stir in Monterey Jack, cheddar, pureed corn, and remaining 2tablespoonsbutteruntilincorporated.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Servesprinkledwithscalliongreens.

KNOWYOURCORN

CORNMEAL:Cornmealiscornkernelsthataredriedandgroundtoapowder.

GRITS:Grits are cornmeal, but thenamealso refers to the cookedporridge sopopular in theSouth.

HOMINYGRITS:Hominygritsarecornkernelswiththehullandbranremovedbeforegrinding.

POLENTA:Polentaiscornmeal,butthenamealsoreferstothecookedItalianporridge,whichistraditionallyenrichedwithbutterandParmesan.

WEIGHINGCHEESE

Our recipes specify cup amounts of cheese to reflect the habits of the typical home cook.Butcheese issoldbyweight,so it canbehard todeterminehowmuch tobuy.Also,oneperson’smeasuremaynotpreciselyequalanother’s.Tocomplicatematters,weclassifycheeseintothreecategories: hard, such as Parmesan and Pecorino Romano; semisoft, such as cheddar andMonterey Jack; and soft, such as feta, blue, and fresh goat cheeses. Each packs into cupmeasuresdifferently.Todevelopa standardweight for each cheesecategory,wegathered10test cooks and had eachweigh out 1-cup samples of each type.We averaged theweights toaccountfortheheavyandlighthandsofdifferentindividuals.Wefoundthat1cupofgratedhardcheeseequalsabout2ounces,whilethesamemeasureofsoftandsemisoftisabout4ounces.Andremember,whenmeasuringcheese,lightlypackmeasuringcupsmeantfordryingredients;don’t use liquid measuring cups, which will give you an inaccurate measurement for dryingredients.

CHICKENFLORENTINE

2 tablespoonsvegetableoil

12ounces(12cups)babyspinach

4(6-ounce)boneless,skinlesschickenbreasts,trimmed

Saltandpepper

1shallot,minced

garliccloves,minced

ChickenFlorentineWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSTorestorechickenFlorentinetoitselegant

roots,westartedwithfreshspinach.Topreventthewaterfromthespinachfromwashing out the other flavors in the dish, we drained excess liquid from thecookedspinachbypressing the leaveswith thebackofa spoon inacolander.For flavor, we seared the chicken breasts first and then poached them in thesaucebeforebroiling.Weusedcreamtomakethesaucesilkyandbuiltvolumewith equal amounts of chicken broth and water.We also added a squeeze oflemonjuiceandahitofzest,alongwithParmesancheesefor itsnutty,savorypunch.Seethesidebarsthatfollowtherecipe.

SERVES4TO6

We like tender, quick-cooking bagged baby spinach here; if using curly-leafspinach,chopitbeforecooking.

2

1¼

cupschickenbroth

1¼

cupswater

1 cupheavycream

6 tablespoonsgratedParmesancheese

1teaspoongratedlemonzestplus1teaspoonjuice

1.Adjustovenracktoupper-middlepositionandheatbroiler.Heat1tablespoonoilin12-inchskilletovermedium-highheatuntilshimmering.Addspinachandcook, stirring occasionally until wilted, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer spinach tocolander set over bowl and presswith spoon to release excess liquid.Discardliquid.

2.Patchickendrywithpapertowelsandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Wipeoutpan and heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil over medium-high heat until justsmoking.Cookchickenonbothsidesuntilgolden,4to6minutes.Addshallotand garlic to skillet and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in broth,water,andcreamandbringtoboil.

3. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until chicken is cooked through,about 10 minutes; transfer chicken to plate and tent with aluminum foil.Continuetosimmersauceuntilreducedto1cup,about10minutes.Offheat,stirin4tablespoonsParmesanandlemonzestandjuice.

4. Cut chicken crosswise into ½-inch-thick slices and arrange on broiler-safeplatter.Scatterspinachoverchickenandpoursauceoverspinach.SprinklewithremainingParmesanandbroiluntilgoldenbrown,3to5minutes.Serve.

DRAININGSPINACH

Asitcooks,spinachreleasesalotofmoisture,whichcanmakedisheslikeourChickenFlorentinewatery.Topreventthat,wetransferredthespinachtoacolanderandpressedtheleaveswithaspoon to force the liquidout.Wedrainednearly¼cupof liquid from the12ouncesofspinachusedinthisrecipe.

ENCHANTINGCHICKEN—WITHOUTAWAND

TheideaofchickenFlorentineasadishmadefromchicken,spinach,andacheesycreamsauceappearedinprintasearlyas1931,whenTheLowell(Mass.)SunbreathlesslydescribedChickenMornay Florentine as served at the Manhattan restaurant, Divan Parisien: “They make magicpassesoverspinach,thencoveritwithbreastsofchickenandaMornaysauce.”Inthe“TablesforTwo”columnofTheNewYorker,April25,1931,theDivanParisienwasdescribedas“aquietandextremelycivilizedrestaurantwithanassortedclientele....”Whatashamethen,thatoneoftheirmost popular dishes morphed to a 1960s casserole (made with frozen spinach, margarine,packagedbreadcrumbs,andcondensedsoups)andthentoweddingbanquetfareinthe1970sand’80s(breastsstuffedwithspinach,rolled,fried,andservedwithacheesysauce).Wewantedto deconstruct the casserole, unroll the spirals, and return chicken Florentine to its earliestversion:abright,elegant,streamlinedsautéwithapansauce.Nomagicpassesinvolved.

CHICKENDIVAN


1poundbroccoliflorets,cutinto1-inchpieces

2½

cupschickenbroth

¼ cupall-purposeflour


Saltandpepper

shallots,minced

ChickenDivanWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSOnce-trendychickenDivan’soriginalrecipe

callsformanydifferentcomponentsandevenmorecookingsteps.Wewantedtostaytruetotheoriginalflavorofthedishbutstreamlinethecookingprocess.Todothis,webatch-cookedthebroccolifirst,thenthechicken.Whilethebroccoliandchickenrested,weusedthesamepantoprepareoursauce.Andinsteadofmakingaseparatehollandaisesauce, like the traditionalchickenDivan recipesdemand, we whisked egg yolks and lemon juice together, then tempered themixturewiththehotpansauce,andwhiskedinbutterattheend.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES4

Useonesmallonioninsteadoftheshallots,ifdesired.

2

1 cupheavycream

½

cupdrysherry

2 teaspoonsWorcestershiresauce

3ouncesParmesancheese,grated(1½cups)

3 largeeggyolks

1 tablespoonlemonjuice


1.Adjustovenracktolower-middlepositionandheatbroiler.Heat1tablespoonoilinlargeskilletovermedium-highheatuntiljustsmoking.Addbroccoliandcook until spotty brown, about 1minute.Add½ cup broth, cover, and steamuntil just tender, about 1½ minutes. Remove lid and cook until liquid hasevaporated,about1minute.Transferbroccoli toplate linedwithpaper towels;rinseandwipeoutskillet.

2.Heatremaining2tablespoonsoilinnow-emptyskilletovermedium-highheatuntilsmoking.Meanwhile,placeflourinshallowdish.Seasonchickenwithsaltandpepperanddredgeinflourtocoat.Cookchickenuntilgoldenbrownonbothsides,4to6minutes.Transferchickentoplate.

3.Offheat,addshallotstoskilletandcookuntil justsoftened,about1minute.Addremaining2cupsbrothandcreamandscrapebrownedbitsfrombottomofpan.Returnchickentoskilletandsimmerovermedium-highheatuntilcookedthrough, about 10 minutes. Transfer chicken to clean plate and continue tosimmer sauce until reduced to 1 cup, about 10 minutes. Add sherry andWorcestershireandsimmeruntilreducedagainto1cup,about3minutes.

4.Stirin1cupParmesan.Whiskeggyolksandlemonjuiceinsmallbowl,thenwhisk in about ¼ cup sauce. Off heat, whisk egg yolk mixture into sauce inskillet,thenwhiskinbutter.

5. Cut chicken into ½-inch-thick slices and arrange on broiler-safe platter.Scatter broccoli over chicken and pour sauce over broccoli. Sprinkle withremaining½cupParmesanandbroiluntilgoldenbrown,3to5minutes.Serve.

BROCCOLIMAKESITTOTHEBIGTIME

It can seem hard to believe today, but broccoli, a key ingredient in chickenDivan, an elegantchicken dish from Manhattan’s Divan Parisien restaurant, was a relative latecomer to theAmericandiet.ThisheadlinefromTheNewYorkTimesin1926atteststoitsarrivalonthescene:“New Vegetables Vary our Menus: Broccoli, Artichoke, and Avocado Naturalized, and FennelEntersUnderForeignName—HomelyCarrotIsStillinDemand.”Broccoliaside,therestaurant’srecipe required a whole poached chicken and a sauce made with béchamel, hollandaise,Parmesancheese,andwhippedcream.Theingredientswerecombinedàlaminute(justbeforebeingplated)andbroiledtoperfection.Soundsgood,butifwe’recountingright,that’satleastfivepots, four recipes, and more time than we’d care to spend in the kitchen. No wonder most“modern” recipes relyoncannedsoup.Wewanted tobringDivan into the21stcenturywithoutcompromisingtheflavorsoftheoriginaldish.

GLAZEDMEATLOAF

GLAZE

1 cupketchup

¼

cuppackedbrownsugar

2½

tablespoonscidervinegar

½

teaspoonhotsauce

GlazedMeatloafWHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For our old-fashioned meatloaf, we cut

groundbeefwithanequalportionofsweetgroundporkforbetterflavor.Asforseasoning,westuckwith tradition: salt,pepper,Dijonmustard,Worcestershiresauce,thyme,parsley,sautéedonion,andgarlic.Toaddmoistureandstructure,weusedapanade(paste)ofmilkandsaltines.Combiningthepanadeinafoodprocessor and then pulsing it with the meat gave the loaf the most cohesive,tender structure. To evaporate the surface moisture that was inhibiting theformation of a crust,we broiled the loaf prior to baking and glazing. See thesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES6TO8

Bothgroundsirloinandgroundchuckworkwellhere,butavoidgroundround—itisgristlyandbland.

MEATLOAF

2 teaspoonsvegetableoil

1onion,choppedfine

2garliccloves,minced

17 saltines

⅓

cupwholemilk

1pound90percentleangroundbeef

1 poundgroundpork

2largeeggsplus1largeyolk

⅓

cupfinelychoppedfreshparsley

2 teaspoonsDijonmustard

2 teaspoonsWorcestershiresauce

½

teaspoondriedthyme

Saltandpepper

1.FORTHEGLAZE:Whiskallingredientsinsaucepanuntilsugardissolves.Reserve¼cupglazemixture, then simmer remainingglazeovermediumheatuntilslightlythickened,about5minutes.Coverandkeepwarm.

2.FORTHEMEATLOAF:Linerimmedbakingsheetwithaluminumfoilandcoat lightlywith vegetable oil spray.Heat oil in nonstick skillet overmediumheatuntilshimmering.Cookonionuntilgolden,about8minutes.Addgarlicandcookuntilfragrant,about30seconds.Transfertolargebowl.

3.Process saltinesandmilk in foodprocessoruntil smooth,about30seconds.Add beef and pork and pulse until well combined, about 10 pulses. Transfermeatmixture tobowlwith cooledonionmixture.Addeggs andyolk, parsley,mustard,Worcestershire,thyme,1teaspoonsalt,and¾teaspoonpeppertobowlandmixwithhandsuntilcombined.

4.Adjust1ovenracktomiddlepositionandsecondrack4inchesfrombroilerelement;heatbroiler.Transfermeatmixturetopreparedbakingsheetandshapeinto9by5-inchloaf.Broilonupperrackuntilwellbrowned,about5minutes.Brush2tablespoonsunreducedglazeovertopandsidesofloafandthenreturntoovenandbroiluntilglazebeginstobrown,about2minutes.

5.Transfermeatloaf to lower rack andbrushwith remainingunreducedglaze.Reduceoven temperature to350degreesandbakeuntilmeatloaf registers160degrees,40to45minutes.Transfer tocuttingboard, tentwithfoil,andletrestfor20minutes.Sliceandserve,passingremainingreducedglazeattable.

KETCHUP–THETRUFFLEOILOFTHE’20s?

Say“meatloaf”andmostAmericans think1950scomfort foodandMom,but thishumblerecipehassurprisinglyelegantrootsinanow-forgottendishcalled“cannelon.”Atypicalcannelonrecipefrom the original Boston Cooking-School Cookbook calls for chopping and seasoning beef,shaping it into a log, and bastingwithmelted butter as it bakes. Thewide availability ofmeatgrindersandtheadventofreliablerefrigerationmadegroundbeefahouseholdstapleintheearly20thcenturyandmeatloaf recipesgainedwidecirculation.Asa topping,butterwasusurpedbytomatosauceuntilketchupbecamepopularinthe1920s.TheHeinzcompanycreateda“HouseofHeinz”campaign to tout thegourmetappeal theirproductsgave toeverydaydishessuchasmeatloaf.Alongwiththeirketchup,HeinzsuggestedincorporatingotherHeinzproducts,suchasbeefsteaksauce, chili sauce,andolives intomeatloaf, or servingcubesofmeatloafwithpickleslices for an easy hors d’oeuvre. For our meatloaf, we skipped the gourmet aspirations andunnecessarymix-insforastellarversionofthe1950sfavorite.

MEATLOAFWITHMUSHROOMGRAVY

1 cupwater

¼ ouncedriedporcinimushrooms,rinsed

16 saltines

10ounceswhitemushrooms,trimmed

1 tablespoonvegetableoil

1onion,choppedfine

MeatloafwithMushroomGravyWHY THIS RECIPEWORKS As much as we love our classic Glazed

Meatloaf, a recipe for a rustic meatloaf with a deep brown crust and heartymushroom gravy piqued our interest. Sliced button mushrooms plus mincedporcini gave the gravy an earthy richness. To further boost the flavor of themeatloaf itself, we added the porcini soaking liquid and more buttonmushrooms, which we ground in a food processor and sautéed. To keep theproceduresimple,webakedthemeatloafinthesameskillet.Then,whiletheloafwasresting,weusedtheskilletandthemeatdrippings tobuildourgravy.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES6TO8

If you’re short the 2 tablespoons of meatloaf drippings needed to make thegravy,supplementthedrippingswithmeltedbutterorvegetableoil.

Saltandpepper


1 poundgroundpork

2 largeeggs

1tablespoonplus¾teaspoon

Worcestershiresauce


¾

teaspoonmincedfreshthyme

¼ cupall-purposeflour2½

cupschickenbroth

1.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento375degrees.Microwavewaterandporcini incoveredbowluntilsteaming,about1minute.Letsituntilsoftened, about5minutes.Strainporcini through fine-mesh strainer linedwithcoffeefilter,reservingliquid.Minceandreserveporcini.

2. Process saltines in food processor until finely ground, about 30 seconds;transfer to large bowl and reserve. Pulse 5 ounces of white mushrooms inprocessoruntilfinelyground,8to10pulses.

3.Heatoilin12-inchnonstickskilletovermedium-highheatuntilshimmering.Addonionandcookuntilbrowned,6to8minutes.Stirinprocessedmushroomsand¼ teaspoon salt andcookuntil liquid evaporates andmushroomsbegin tobrown,about5minutes.Addgarlicandcookuntil fragrant,about30seconds.Transfer to bowl with saltines and let cool to room temperature, about 15minutes.Wipeoutskilletwithpapertowels.

4.Addpork,¼cupreservedporciniliquid,eggs,1tablespoonWorcestershire,1teaspoonsalt, and¾ teaspoonpepper tocooledmushroom-saltinemixtureandkneadgentlyuntil nearly combined.Addbeef andkneaduntilwell combined.Transfermeatmixture to now-empty skillet and shape into 10 by 6-inch loaf.Bakeuntilmeatloafregisters160degrees,45to55minutes.Transfermeatloaftocarvingboardandtentlooselywithaluminumfoil.

5.Sliceremaining5ounceswhitemushrooms.Discardanysolidsinskilletandpour off all but 2 tablespoons fat. Heat fat over medium-high heat untilshimmering. Add sliced mushrooms and reserved porcini and cook, stirringoccasionally, until deep golden brown, 6 to 8 minutes. Stir in thyme and ¼teaspoon salt and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add flour and cook,stirringfrequently,untilgolden,about2minutes.Slowlywhiskinbroth,½cupreservedporcini liquid,and remaining¾ teaspoonWorcestershire, scrapingupany browned bits, and bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium and simmer,whiskingoccasionally,until thickened,10 to15minutes.Seasonwith salt andpeppertotaste.Slicemeatloafandservewithgravy.

ONESKILLET,STARTTOFINISH

ONTHESTOVEWebrowntheonionandgroundmushroomsforrobustflavor.

INTOTHEOVENWeshapeandbakethemeatloafinthesameskillet.

BACKTOTHESTOVEWhilethemeatloafrests,weuseitsdrippingstomakethegravy.

SWISSSTEAKWITHTOMATOGRAVY

1(3½-to4-pound)bonelesstopbladeroast,trimmed

Saltandpepper


1onion,halvedandslicedthin

2 tablespoonstomatopaste

1tablespoonall-purposeflour

SwissSteakwithTomatoGravyWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSThepointofSwisssteak is to transforma

tough,inexpensivecutofmeatintoadelicatemealsotenderyoucanalmosteatit with a spoon.Many recipes called for tenderizing themeat by pounding itbeforecooking,butweknowfromexperiencethatpoundingmeatdoesnothingtotenderizeit.Insteadwereliedonaslowbraisetocreatetheidealtexture.Toflavor theSwiss steakgravy,we found a combinationof sautéedonion, dicedtomatoes, and sun-dried tomatoes was ideal. See the sidebar that follows therecipe.

SERVES6TO8

Topblade roastmayalsobe labeledchuck roast firstcut, topchuck roast, flatironroast,orsimplybladeroast.


½

teaspoondriedthyme

1(14.5-ounce)candicedtomatoes

1½

cupschickenbroth

1tablespoonsun-driedtomatoespackedinoil,rinsed,patteddry,andminced

1 tablespoonmincedfreshparsley

1.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento300degrees.Cutroastcrosswise into quarters and remove center line of gristle from each quarter toyield8steaks.

2.Patsteaksdrywithpapertowelsandseasonlightlywithsaltandpepper.Heat1 tablespoon oil in Dutch oven over medium-high heat just until smoking.Brown4steaksonbothsides,about6minutes.Transfertoplateandrepeatwithremainingoilandsteaks.

3.Addoniontoemptypotandcookuntilsoftened,about5minutes.Addtomatopaste, flour, garlic, and thyme and cookuntil fragrant, about 1minute. Stir indicedtomatoesandbrothandbringtoboil.

4.Returnsteaksandanyaccumulatedjuicestopan.Cover,transfertoovenandcookuntil steaksare fork-tender,about2hours.Transfersteaks toplatter, tentwithaluminumfoil,andletrestfor5minutes.Skimfatfromsauce.Stirinsun-driedtomatoesandparsley.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Poursauceoversteaks.Serve.

PREPARINGBLADEROASTFORSWISSSTEAK

Topbladeroast,ashouldercutwithgreatflavor,hasapeskylineofgristlethatrunshorizontallythroughitscenter.FollowthesesimplestepstoremoveitandcutperfectSwisssteaks.

1.Placeroastoncuttingboardandcutcrosswiseinto4evenpieces.

2.Onepieceatatime,turnmeatonitssidetoexposelineofgristlethatrunsthroughitscenter.

3. Remove by slicing through meat on either side of gristle to yield 2 “steaks.” Repeat withremainingpiecesofbladeroasttoyieldtotalof8steaks.

SALISBURYSTEAK

½

cupmilk

7 tablespoonsinstantpotatoflakes


Saltandpepper


SalisburySteakWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSWewantedtorescuethisAmericanclassic

fromthefrozenfoodsaisleforagreatweeknightoption.Westartedbymixingapanade (a milk and bread paste) into ground beef to help bind the meat andpreservemoisture,butthistrickmadethedishtastetoomuchlikemeatloaf.Onalark,weaddedmashedpotatoesasseeninonerecipeandwereimpressedwiththe silky texture and great flavor of the patties. To make the dish easier, weswappedin instantpotatoflakes.Webrownedthepattiesonbothsidesand letthemfinishcookingintheextra-richmushroomandonionsauce,whichkeptthebeeftender.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES4

Whenshapingthepattiesinstep1,besuretowetyourhandstopreventsticking.Tawnyportordrysherrycanbesubstitutedfortherubyport.Donotusepotatogranules,whichaddanoff-flavor.

1 onion,halvedandslicedthin

1poundwhitemushrooms,trimmedandslicedthin

1 tablespoontomatopaste


1¾

cupsbeefbroth

¼

cuprubyport

1.Whiskmilkandpotatoflakesinlargebowl.Addbeef,½teaspoonsalt,and½teaspoon pepper and knead until combined. Shape into four½-inch-thick ovalpatties and transfer to parchment paper–lined plate.Refrigerate for at least 30minutesorupto4hours.

2.Melt1 tablespoonbutter in12-inchnonstick skilletovermedium-highheat.Cook patties until well browned on each side, about 10 minutes. Transfer toplate.

3.Addonionandremaining3tablespoonsbuttertonow-emptyskilletandcookuntil onion is softened, about5minutes.Addmushroomsand½ teaspoon saltand cookuntil liquid has evaporated, 5 to 7minutes. Stir in tomato paste andflourandcookuntilbrowned,about2minutes.Slowlystirinbrothandportandbringtosimmer.Returnpatties toskillet,cover,andsimmerovermedium-lowheatuntilcookedthrough,12to15minutes.Seasonsaucewithsaltandpeppertotaste.Serve.

TAKE2ASPIRIN—ORHAVESOMESALISBURYSTEAK

It’shardtoimaginethatchoppedsteakcouldbeconsideredhealthfood,butthat’sjustwhatDr.JamesHenrySalisburyhadinmindwhenheinventedhiseponymousdishasa“meatcure”forwounded and ill Civil War soldiers (who were instructed to eat it three times a day—with novegetables allowed). Some 60 years later, during the period of World War I food rations,restaurateurs ground up their lean beef scraps, shaped them into patties, dressed the cookedpattieswitharichmushroomcreamsauce,andcalleditSalisburysteak.Aroundthistime,recipesforSalisbury steak began showingup in cookbooks, butwith a nod toward the original recipe,instructions indicated that invalids should skip the sauce.DuringWorldWar II, Salisbury steakagainenjoyedpopularitybecauseitwasagreatwaytostretchmeat:creamofwheat,oats,andsoygritswerecommonfillers.Andin1965,SalisburysteakreallyhitthebigtimewhenSwansonintroduceditinaspecialthree-courseTVdinner.Impressedbyitsstoriedpast,wecouldn’tresistresurrectingthisAmericanclassic.

MILK-CANSUPPER


2½ poundsbratwurst(10sausages)

2poundssmallredpotatoes,unpeeled

1headgreencabbage(2pounds),coredandcutinto8wedges

3earscorn,husksandsilkremoved,earscutinto3pieces

Milk-CanSupperWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSTraditionally, cowboys layeredvegetables

andmeat(usuallysausage)intoagiantmilkcan,thencookeditoveranopenfireto feed large groups of cowhands.To bring this all-in-one dish into the homekitchen,weoptedtouseaDutchovenbutkeepthebasictechniqueoflayeringingredients according to cooking time. Browning the Bratwurst first createdflavorfulfond.Welinedthebottomofthepotwithsturdyredpotatoestoprotecttheothervegetables fromburning, andweadded thequick-cookinggreenbellpeppershalfwaythroughcooking.Traditionallagerasacookingliquidgaveourmeat-and-potatoesmealtoastydepth.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES6TO8

IfyourDutchovenisslightlysmallerthan8quarts,thelidmaynotclosealltheway when you start cooking. But as the contents of the pot cook, they willdecrease involume, soyou’ll soonbeable to clampon the lid.Use small redpotatoes,measuring 1 to 2 inches in diameter. Light-bodiedAmerican lagers,suchasBudweiser,workbestinthisrecipe.

6 carrots,peeledandcutinto2-inchpieces

1onion,halvedandcutthroughrootendinto8wedges

4garliccloves,peeledandsmashed

10 sprigsfreshthyme

2 bayleaves

Saltandpepper

1½

cupsbeer

2greenbellpeppers,stemmed,seeded,andcutinto1-inch-widestrips

1. Heat oil in 8-quart Dutch oven over medium heat until shimmering. Addbratwurst and cook until browned all over, 6 to 8minutes. Remove pot fromheat.Transferbratwursttocuttingboardandhalvecrosswise.

2. Place potatoes in single layer in now-empty Dutch oven. Arrange cabbagewedges in single layer on top of potatoes. Layer corn, carrots, onion, garlic,thyme,bay leaves,1 teaspoonsalt,and½teaspoonpepperovercabbage.Pourbeerovervegetablesandarrangebrownedbratwurstsontop.

3.Bringtoboilovermedium-highheat(wispsofsteamwillbevisible).Cover,reduce heat to medium, and simmer for 15 minutes. Add bell peppers andcontinue to simmer,covered,untilpotatoesare tender, about15minutes. (Uselongskewertotestpotatoesfordoneness.)

4.Transferbratwurstandvegetablestolargeservingplatter(orroastingpan,ifyourplatterisn’tlargeenough);discardthymesprigsandbayleaves.Pour1cupcookingliquidoverplatter.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Serve,passingremainingcookingliquidseparately.

TRAILTALK

Foodoftenoutlaststheculturethatcreatedit.Milk-cansupper,forexample,originatedasawayof feedingcowhandsaftera longdayofwork. It is still popular inpartsof theWestandupperMidwest,butthefoodlingoofthecowboyswhoonceatethisdishhasfadedaway.Somenamesfor individual dishes, such as calf slobber (for meringue), reflected the coarseness of traillanguage.Perhapsmostrevealingwasthenameforthe5-or10-galloncanthatservedasanall-purposecookingutensilthroughoutathousand-milecattledrive:Itwascalledthesquirrelcan,theuncomplimentarymonikercomingfromtheideathatitwasneveremptiedduringthecourseoftheentiredrivebut insteadbecame the receptacle forwhatever thecook found toadd to it. Inher1933article “RanchDictionof theTexasPanhandle,”authorMaryDaleBucknerdeclared, “It istrue thatwhen a spoon, cup, dipper or some small objectwas dropped into [the squirrel can],usuallynoonebotheredtoremoveit.”We’llstickwiththemilkcan.

PAN-FRIEDPORKCHOPS

1 teaspoongarlicpowder

½

teaspoonpaprika

½

teaspoonsalt

½

teaspoonpepper

¼


1cupall-purposeflour

Pan-FriedPorkChopsWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSNot all pork chops are created alike—for

pan-frying, we found that center-cut or bone-in pork chops worked best. Theboneaddedvaluableflavortothemeatandpreventeditfromdryingout.Simplydredgingtheporkchopsinflour,asmostrecipesinstructed,producedaspotty,insubstantial crust thatwouldn’t stayput.Wehavehad success letting flouredchicken rest before re-dredging and frying, and we wondered if the sametreatmentwouldworkforpork.Sureenough,ourdouble-dippedchopsemergedfromthepanwithahefty,crisp,golden-browncrust.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES4

Chopsbetween¾and1inchthickwillworkinthisrecipe.

4(8-to10-ounce)bone-inporkriborcenter-cutchops,about¾inchthick,trimmed

3slicesbacon,chopped

½

cupvegetableoil

1. Combine garlic powder, paprika, salt, pepper, and cayenne in bowl. Placeflourinshallowdish.Patchopsdrywithpapertowels.Cut2slitsabout2inchesapartthroughfatandconnectivetissueonedgeofeachchop.Seasonbothsidesofchopswithspicemixture, thendredgechops lightly in flour (donotdiscardflour).Transfertoplateandletrestfor10minutes.

2.Meanwhile,cookbaconin12-inchnonstickskilletovermediumheatuntilfatrendersandbaconiscrisp,5to7minutes.Usingslottedspoon,transferbacontopapertowel–linedplateandreserveforanotheruse.Donotwipeoutpan.

3. Add oil to fat in pan and heat over medium-high heat until just smoking.Returnchopstoflourdishandturntocoatchopsagain.Cookchopsuntilwellbrownedoneachside,6to8minutes.Serve.

BBQPAN-FRIEDPORKCHOPS

Replace first 5 ingredients with 3 tablespoons light brown sugar, 1 teaspoon chili powder, 1teaspoonpaprika,½teaspoonsalt,½teaspoondrymustard,¼teaspoongroundcumin,and¼teaspooncayennepepper.

HERBEDPAN-FRIEDPORKCHOPS

Replacefirst5ingredientswith½teaspoondriedmarjoram,½teaspoondriedthyme,¼teaspoondriedbasil,¼teaspoondriedrosemary(crumbled),¼teaspoondriedsage,pinchgroundfennel,and½teaspoonsalt.

PREVENTINGCURLYCHOPS

Porkchops—especiallythin-cutchops—haveatendencytocurlastheycook.Whenexposedtothehighheatofthepan,theringoffatandconnectivetissuethatsurroundstheexteriortightens,causingthemeattobuckleandcurl.Topreventit,wecuttwoslitsabout2inchesapartthroughthefatandconnectivetissueoneachchop.

BUCKLEDCHOPNoslits

FLATCHOPSlitscut

SMOTHEREDPORKCHOPS

1 teaspoononionpowder

½

teaspoonpaprika

Saltandpepper

¼


4(8-to10-ounce)bone-inblade-cutporkchops,about½inchthick,trimmed

1½

tablespoonsvegetableoil

SmotheredPorkChopsWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSBone-inchopswereamust forsmothered

porkchops,becausethebonekeptthemeatmoistandaddedflavortothesauce.Caramelizingtheonionsmadethesaucetoosweetandtookalmostanhour.Wehad better luck cooking them in butter until they were lightly browned. Weswapped out chicken broth in favor of meatier beef broth, which greatlyimproved the flavor of our sauce. Adding dried thyme, bay leaf, and cidervinegar bumped up the flavor even more. To thicken our broth, we made acornstarch-and-brothslurry.Theresults?Asilkysaucethatclungtoourchops.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES4

Chopsthickerthan½inchwon’tbefullytenderintheallottedcookingtime.

1 tablespoonunsaltedbutter

2onions,halvedandsliced¼inchthick


¼

teaspoondriedthyme

¾ cupplus1tablespoonbeefbroth

1 bayleaf

1 teaspooncornstarch

1 teaspooncidervinegar

1.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento300degrees.Combineonion powder, paprika, ½ teaspoon salt, ½ teaspoon pepper, and cayenne insmall bowl. Pat chops drywith paper towels.Cut 2 slits about 2 inches apartthrough fat andconnective tissueonedgeofeachchop.Rubchopswith spicemixture.

2. Heat oil in large skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Brownchopsonboth sides,6 to8minutes, and transfer toplate.Meltbutter innow-empty skillet overmediumheat.Cookonionsuntil browned, 8 to 10minutes.Addgarlicand thymeandcookuntil fragrant,about30seconds.Stir in¾cupbrothandbayleaf,scrapingupanybrownedbits,andbringtoboil.Returnchopsandanyaccumulatedjuicestopan,cover,andtransfertooven.Cookuntilchopsarecompletelytender,about1½hours.

3.Transferchopstoplatterandtentwithaluminumfoil.Discardbayleaf.Straincontents of skillet through fine-mesh strainer into large liquidmeasuring cup;reserve onions. Let liquid settle, then skim fat. Return 1½ cups defatted panjuices to now-empty skillet and bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium andsimmeruntilsauceisreducedto1cup,about5minutes.

4.Whisk remaining1 tablespoonbroth and cornstarch inbowluntil no lumpsremain.Whiskcornstarchmixtureintosauceandsimmeruntilthickened,1to2minutes. Stir in reserved onions and vinegar. Season with salt and pepper totaste.Serve.

PORKCHOPPERFECTION

Youmightthinksmotheredporkchopswereborninadinersomewhere.You’dbewrong.

“Smother”isanEnglishtermthatreferstoamethodofcookingmeat,poultry,or

gameslowlyinacoveredvessel.Thismethod,essentiallyabraise,goesbackatleast

tothe16thcentury.RecipesforsmothersfirstcametotheUnitedStatesfromEngland

duringtheRevolutionaryWar.AmeliaSimmons’sAmericanCookery,writtenin1796,includesarecipeforsmotheringachickenwithoysters,though

onions are the most common smothering agent. It is believed onions insmotherswere

usedtotonedownthegaminessofmeatorhideoff-flavors.Sailorssmotheredtheir

salt beef and salt pork rations with onions and potatoes when out to sea.Regional

variations soon developed throughout the country: New Englanders oftenmadesmothers

with fresh pork; in the South, Creole cooking advised against smotheringpork,but

recommendeditforbeef,chicken,andveal;andwhileothertraditionsintheDeep

Southdidsmotherpork,itwasmoretypicallytails,chitterlings,orothertough

or gamy parts—the parts of the pig most available to African-Americanslaves.Eventually,

porkchopsdidmakeitintothepot,andwe’regladtheydid.

CIDER-BRAISEDPORKCHOPS

6(8-to10-ounce)bone-inblade-cutporkchops,about1inchthick,trimmed

Saltandpepper


1onion,chopped

¼

cupapplebutter

tablespoonsall-purposeflour

Cider-BraisedPorkChopsWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSTheappleflavorincider-braisedporkchops

can be fleeting.We wanted tender, juicy chops infused with deep, rich ciderflavor.Tasterspreferred1-inchbladechops for theirheft, silkymeat, and richtaste.PattingthechopsdrybeforeaddingthemtotheheatedDutchovenhelpedthemdevelopa flavorfulcrust.Applecider lentbothsweetnessand tartness tothe braising mixture and sauce, while a bit of fresh thyme provided a headyherbalcomponent.Jarredapplebutteraddedfurtherappleflavor,anditsnaturalpectin gave the sauce a thick, glossy consistency. A splash of cider vinegarprovidedbrightness.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES6

Donotusechopsthinnerthan1inch.Instep3,afatseparatormakesquickworkofdefattingthesauce.

2


1 cupapplecider

1 sprigfreshthyme


1 tablespoonfinelychoppedfreshparsley

1.Adjustovenracktolower-middlepositionandheatovento300degrees.Patchops drywith paper towels. Cut 2 slits about 2 inches apart through fat andconnectivetissueonedgeofeachchop.Seasonchopswithsaltandpepper.HeatoilinDutchovenovermedium-highheatuntiljustsmoking.Brown3chopsoneachside, about8minutes; transfer toplate, and then repeatwith remaining3chops.

2.Pouroffallbut1tablespoonfatfrompotandcookonionovermediumheatuntil softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in 2 tablespoons apple butter, flour, andgarlicandcookuntilonioniscoatedandmixtureisfragrant,about1minute.Stirinciderandthyme,scrapingupanybrownedbitswithwoodenspoon,andbringto boil. Add browned chops and any accumulated juices to pot, cover, andtransfertooven.Braiseuntilchopsarecompletelytender,about1½hours.

3. Transfer chops to serving platter. Strain sauce, then skim off fat.Whisk invinegar,parsley,andremaining2tablespoonsapplebutter.Seasonwithsaltandpepper to taste. Serve, passing sauce at table. (Pork chops and sauce can berefrigerated separately for up to 2 days. To serve, reheat sauce and chopstogetherovermediumheatuntilchopsarewarmedthrough.)

3KEYSTOBETTERAPPLEFLAVOR

Cideralonewon’tprovidemuchappleflavor.Topackthetasteofapplesintoourporkchops,wesettledonatriplehelpingofappleproducts.

APPLEBUTTERApplebutterprovidesintenseappleandwarmspiceflavor.Italsohelpsthickenthesauce.

CIDERVINEGARFinishingwithasplashofcidervinegaraddsbrightnessandcomplexitytothesauce.

CIDERSweet-tartciderprovidesmostoftheliquidforthebraisingmixtureandsauce.

CRISPYFISHSTICKSWITHTARTARSAUCE


16 saltines

½ cupall-purposeflour

2 largeeggs

1 cupmayonnaise

2poundsskinlesscod,cutinto1-inch-thickstrips

Saltandpepper

CrispyFishStickswithTartarSauceWHY THIS RECIPEWORKS Forget the boxed varieties in the frozen

foods aisle—our homemade fish sticks are fresh and crisp, and fry up in justminutes.Ourrecipecallsforcod,buthalibut,haddock,andcatfishareallworthysubstitutes. Eggs beaten withmayonnaise helped our coating of crisp saltinesandfreshbreadcrumbsadheretothefish.Wepan-friedthefishintwobatchestoensuretheycookedupevenandcrisp.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES4

Besuretorinsethecapers,otherwisethetartarsaucewillbetoosalty.Halibut,haddock,orcatfishcanbesubstitutedforthecod.

¼ cupfinelychoppeddillpickles,plus1tablespoonpicklejuice

1tablespooncapers,rinsedandminced

1 cupvegetableoil

1.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento200degrees.Pulsebreadand saltines in food processor to fine crumbs, about 15 pulses; transfer toshallow dish. Place flour in second shallow dish. Beat eggs with ¼ cupmayonnaiseinthirdshallowdish.

2.Patfishdrywithpapertowelsandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Oneatatime,coatfishstripslightlywithflour,dipineggmixture,andthendredgeincrumbs,pressing on both sides to adhere. Transfer breaded fish to plate. Combineremaining¾cupmayonnaise,pickles,picklejuice,andcapersinsmallbowlandsetaside.

3.Heat½cupoil in large12-inchnonstickskilletovermediumheatuntil justsmoking.Fryhalfoffishstripsuntildeepgoldenandcrisponbothsides,about4minutes.Drain onpaper towel–linedplate and transfer to oven to keepwarm.Discardoil,wipeoutskillet,andrepeatwithremaining½cupoilandremainingfish.Servewithtartarsauce.

FISHSTICKS—PIONEERINGTHEFROZENFOODLANDSCAPE

Commercial freezingbrought fish to thepeople,but itwas the fishstick, introduced in1953byBirdsEye, thatgot them interested ineating fish.Why?Fishstickshavealwaysappealedonafew levels. The breading helps prevent the fish from sticking to the pan; their mild flavor andcrunchycrustappealtochildren;andconveniently,fishsticksrequireminimalcleanup.Overtheyears,neither theexpandedmarketcreatedby freezingnor thewildpopularityof fishsticksdidmuch toboost thenation’soverall fishconsumption.But fishsticksdid fireup the frozen foodsmarket, both in termsof the creativity of producersand theenthusiasmof consumers for new,convenient heat-and-eat food products. Before fish stickswent commercial in the frozen foodsindustry, theywere found at fishmarkets and delis along theEastCoast. And of course, theyweremadeathome.Homemademightnotbeasconvenientasthefrozentype,butwestillaimedforarecipethatwaseasyenoughforaweeknight.

STRAWBERRYPRETZELSALAD

6½

ouncespretzelsticks

2¼ cups(15¾ounces)sugar

12tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,meltedandcooled

8 ouncescreamcheese

1 cupheavycream

pounds(10½cups)frozenstrawberries,thawed

StrawberryPretzelSaladWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSThistri-layerMidwesternspecialtydoesn’t

muchresemblesalad,butthesweet-salty,creamy-crunchycombinationgrabbedour attention. We knew we could make this slightly offbeat potluck favoriteshinewithsomehomemadeelements.Wereplacedthe“whippedtopping”withrealcream,whichwewhippedintosoftenedcreamcheesewithsomesugarforatangy,not-too-sweetmiddlelayer.Thetoplayer,traditionallymadefromboxedJell-O,gotanupgradetoplaingelatinflavoredwithrealpureedstrawberryjuiceandslicedfrozenberries.Thetimeittooktomaketheseelementsfromscratchwaswellworththeextraeffort.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES10TO12

For a sturdier crust, use (thinner) pretzel sticks not (fatter) rods. Thaw thestrawberries in the refrigerator the night before you begin the recipe. You’llpuree2poundsofthestrawberriesandslicetheremaining1pound.

3

¼

teaspoonsalt

4½

teaspoonsunflavoredgelatin

½

cupcoldwater

1.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento400degrees.Spray13by9-inchbakingpanwithvegetableoilspray.Pulsepretzelsand¼cupsugarinfood processor until coarsely ground, about 15 pulses.Addmelted butter andpulseuntilcombined,about10pulses.Transferpretzelmixturetopreparedpan.Using bottom ofmeasuring cup, press crumbs into bottom of pan. Bake untilcrustisfragrantandbeginningtobrown,about10minutes,rotatingpanhalfwaythroughbaking.Setasidecrust,lettingitcoolslightly,about20minutes.

2.Usingstandmixerfittedwithwhisk,whipcreamcheeseand½cupsugaronmediumspeeduntillightandfluffy,about2minutes.Increasespeedtomedium-highand,withmixerstillrunning,slowlyaddcreaminsteadystream.Continuetowhipuntil soft peaks form, scrapingdownbowl as needed, about 1minutelonger. Spread whipped cream cheese mixture evenly over cooled crust.Refrigerateuntilset,about30minutes.

3.Meanwhile,process2poundsstrawberriesinnow-emptyfoodprocessoruntilpureed, about 30 seconds. Strain mixture through fine-mesh strainer set overmediumsaucepan,usingundersideofsmallladletopushpureethroughstrainer.Addremaining1½cupssugarandsalttostrawberrypureeinsaucepanandcookover medium-high heat, whisking occasionally, until bubbles begin to appeararoundsidesofpanandsugarisdissolved,about5minutes;removefromheat.

4.Sprinklegelatinoverwaterinlargebowlandletsituntilgelatinsoftens,about5minutes.Whiskstrawberrypureeintogelatin.Sliceremainingstrawberriesandstir into strawberry-gelatin mixture. Refrigerate until gelatin thickens slightlyand starts to cling to sides of bowl, about 30minutes. Carefully pour gelatinmixtureevenlyoverwhippedcreamcheeselayer.Refrigeratesaladuntilgelatinisfullyset,atleast4hoursorupto24hours.Serve.

SALADDAYS

Bakedbeans,marshmallows,fruitcocktail,flavoredgelatin,gratedAmericancheese,gingerale,sauerkraut...Dothewords“saladfixings”springtomind?

Probablynot,butthenyouaren’tawell-bred,middle-classladylivinginthefirsthalfofthe20thcentury.Hadyoubeenrearedon the tenetsof thedomesticsciencemovement thatdominatedAmericancookingatthattime,suchalistwouldindeedhavesuggestedsalad.Asa“progressivehousekeeper,”youwouldhavecringedattheveryideaofwhatwecallsaladtoday.

AsculinaryhistorianLauraShapirohasdetailed inPerfectionSalad:WomenandCookingattheTurnoftheCentury,vegetableshadtobetamed,andtheverybestwaytorenderuntidyrawvegetables harmless was to encase them in gelatin. After molding and chilling her salad, shecouldgild the lilywitha fewstuffedprunes, rococoswirlsof thinnedmayonnaise,andacarvedtomatotulip.

Pretzelsaladisadirectdescendentofsuch“FestiveforSpecialOccasionsSalads,”asBettyCrocker’s New Picture Cook Book grouped similar concoctions as late as 1961. Even today,despitetheCoolWhipandthestrawberryJell-O,pretzelsaladisnotdessert—it’sasalad.

CHAPTER 2: FORK-IN-THE-ROADFAVORITES

Batter-FriedChicken

HoneyFriedChicken

CreoleFriedChicken

Extra-CrunchyFriedChicken

NashvilleHotFriedChicken

ChickenNuggets

Gumbo

NewOrleansBarbecueShrimp

ChineseChickenSalad

PattyMelts

OklahomaFriedOnionBurgers

AtlantaBrisket

Slow-CookerBBQBeefBrisket

TennesseeWhiskeyPorkChops

Memphis-StyleWetRibsforaCrowd

BaltimorePitBeef

CincinnatiChili

ColoradoGreenChili

NatchitochesMeatPies

St.Louis–StylePizza

CrunchyPotatoWedges

CrispyPotatoTots

Beer-BatteredOnionRings

Whenmostofusthinkofeatingontheroad,wethinkofdiners,drive-ins,fast-food joints, and the like—most of which were the result of the rise of theautomobileandthehighwaysthatfollowed.Butbeforeautomobiles,trainswerethe preferredmode of travel for long journeys. Sure, trains often have diningcars—but that wasn’t always the case. Just after the Civil War, newly freedslaves,lookingforalivinginGordonsville,Virginia,hitontheideaoffeedinghungry train passengers passing through town. As John T. Edge describes inFried Chicken: An American Story (2004), a group of enterprising African-Americanwomenbegan sellingbatter-friedchicken (brined,dunked in aplainflour-waterbatter, and fried in lard), coffee, andpie topassengers through thewindowsofidlingtrains.Theycarriedtraysladenwithfoodfromtheirhomestothe tracks.This informal concessioncontinued for some60years.WhatbetterreasonforthetestkitchentoresurrectthisAmericanfavoritefortoday?

Colorful stories and great road food aren’t just limited to fried chicken, ofcourse.Thetestkitchen’sotherstopsincludeBaltimore,fortheirincomparablepit roast beef sandwichmadewith shaved barbecued beef slatheredwith tigersauce(agarlicky,creamysaucespikedwithhorseradish);St.Louis, forwafer-thinpizzatoppedwithgooey,smokycheese;andCincinnatiforitsfamouschili.What—you didn’t know Cincinnati boasts some of the country’s best chili?That’sthedelightofroadfood;youjustdon’tknowwhat’scomingaroundthe

corneruntilyougetthere.

BATTER-FRIEDCHICKEN

CHICKENANDBRINE

¼

cupsalt

¼

cupsugar

4pounds bone-in chicken pieces, breasts halved crosswise and leg quartersseparatedintothighsanddrumsticks,trimmed

BATTER

cupall-purposeflour

Batter-FriedChickenWHYTHISRECIPEWORKS The old-fashionedmethod of batter-fried

chicken calls for dipping chicken parts in a batter not unlike pancake batterbeforefrying.Forjuicymeat,webrinedourchicken.Toensureacrispcrust,wereplacedthemilkinourinitialbatterswithplainoldwater.Withmilk,thesugarsinthemilksolidsbrownedtoofastandproducedasoftcrust.Usingequalpartscornstarchandflourinthebatteralsohelpedensureacrispcrustonthechicken.Andbakingpowderaddedliftandlightnesswithoutdoughiness.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES4TO6

Youwillneedatleasta6-quartDutchovenforthisrecipe.

1

1 cupcornstarch

5 teaspoonspepper

2 teaspoonsbakingpowder

1 teaspoonsalt

1 teaspoonpaprika

½


1¾

cupscoldwater

3 quartspeanutorvegetableoil

1.FORTHECHICKENANDBRINE:Dissolvesaltandsugarin1quartcoldwaterinlargecontainer.Submergechickeninbrine,cover,andrefrigeratefor30minutesorupto1hour.

2.FORTHEBATTER:Meanwhile,combineflour,cornstarch,pepper,bakingpowder, salt, paprika, and cayenne in large bowl, add water, and whisk untilsmooth.Refrigeratebatterwhilechickenisbrining.

3. Setwire rack in rimmedbaking sheet.Add oil to largeDutch oven until itmeasuresabout2 inchesdeepandheatovermedium-highheat to350degrees.Usingtongs,removechickenfrombrineandpatdrywithpapertowels.Rewhiskbatter.Transferhalfofchickentobatterandturntocoat.Removechickenfrombatter,1pieceatatime,allowingexcesstodripbackintobowl,andtransfertooil. Fry chicken, adjusting burner as necessary to maintain oil temperaturebetween300and325degrees,untildeepgoldenbrownandbreastsregister160degreesandthighsanddrumsticksregister175degrees,12to15minutes.Drainchicken on prepared baking sheet. Return oil to 350 degrees and repeat withremainingchicken.Serve.

KEYSTOBESTBATTER-FRIEDCHICKEN

1.Whisktogetherwater,flour,bakingpowder,spices,andcornstarchtomakethinbatterforcrispcrust.

2.Afterdippingchickeninbatter,letexcessdripoff(backintobowl)toavoiddoughycoating.

3. To prevent chicken pieces from sticking together in oil, don’t crowd pot. Fry chicken in 2batches.

HONEYFRIEDCHICKEN

BRINEANDCHICKEN

½

cupsalt

½

cupsugar

3pounds bone-in chicken pieces (split breasts cut in half, drumsticks, and/orthighs),trimmed

HoneyFriedChickenWHYTHISRECIPEWORKS Really good honey fried chicken is juicy

andtenderontheinsidewithacrispy,sticky,honey-flavoredcoating.Tokeepthe meat moist, we brined the chicken first. For the coating, we dusted thechicken in cornstarch and dipped it in a thin cornstarch-and-water batter. Thehardest part was glazing the fried chicken in honeywithoutmaking the crustsoggy.Wefoundthatthekeywastodouble-frythechicken:Wepartiallyfriedthechicken,letitresttoallowmoisturefromtheskintoevaporate,thenfrieditagainforanincrediblycrunchycrustthatstayedcrispywhendunkedinaglazeofwarmhoneyandhotsauce.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES4

If using kosher chicken, do not brine.Youwill need at least a 6-quartDutchovenforthisrecipe.

BATTER

1½

cupscornstarch

¾

cupcoldwater

2 teaspoonspepper

1 teaspoonsalt


HONEYGLAZE

¾

cuphoney

2 tablespoonshotsauce

1. FORTHEBRINEANDCHICKEN: Dissolve salt and sugar in 2 quartscoldwaterinlargecontainer.Submergechickeninbrine,cover,andrefrigeratefor30minutesto1hour.

2. FOR THE BATTER: While chicken is brining, whisk 1 cup cornstarch,water,pepper,andsalttogetherinlargebowluntilsmooth.Refrigeratebatter.

3. Setwire rack inside rimmed baking sheet. Sift remaining½ cup cornstarchinto shallowbowl.Removechicken frombrineanddry thoroughlywithpapertowels.Workingwith1pieceatatime,coatchickenthoroughlywithcornstarch,shakingtoremoveexcess;transfertoplatter.

4.Addoil to largeDutchovenuntil itmeasuresabout2 inchesdeepandheatovermedium-highheatto350degrees.Whiskbattertorecombine.Usingtongs,transferhalfofchickentobatterandturntocoat.Removechickenfrombatter,1pieceata time,allowingexcess todripbackintobowl,andtransfer tohotoil.Fry chicken, stirring to prevent pieces from sticking together, until slightlygoldenandjustbeginningtocrisp,5to7minutes.Adjustburner,ifnecessary,tomaintain oil temperature between 325 and 350 degrees. (Chicken will not becookedthroughatthispoint.)Transferparcookedchickentoplatter.Returnoilto350degreesandrepeatwithremainingrawchickenandbatter.Leteachbatchofchickenrestfor5to7minutes.

5.Return oil to 350degrees.Return first batch of chicken to oil and fry untilbreasts register160degrees and thighs/drumsticks register175degrees,5 to7minutes.Transfertopreparedbakingsheet.Returnoilto350degreesandrepeatwithremainingchicken.

6.FORTHEHONEYGLAZE:Combinehoneyandhotsauce in largebowland microwave until hot, about 1½ minutes. Add chicken pieces to honeymixture,oneatatime,andturntocoat.Returntobakingsheet,skinsideup,todrain.Serve.

MAKINGABEELINEWEST

Thecommonhoneybee(ApismelliferaL.)isnotnativetoNorthAmerica.BritishsettlersboundforVirginiabroughthivesaboardships,alongwithpeacocks,pigeons,andrabbits,astheauthorofaletterfromtheVirginiaCompanyrecordedin1621.Duringthenext200years,thebeepopulationslowlyrolledwestward,pollinatingtheprairiesandthesettlers’cropsandprovidingpioneerswithhoney,wax,candles,andmedicine.NativeAmericanscalledthehoneybeethe“whiteman’sfly,”andtheysawthebeesthatswarmedaheadofthesettlersasathreat.“TheIndians…considerthem the harbinger of the white man,” Washington Irving wrote as he traveled through theOklahomaTerritory in1832. “As thebeeadvances, the Indianand thebuffalo retire.”Similarly,after visiting members of the Osage tribe in the Missouri Territory in 1836, writer AlphonsoWetmorereportedthat“theIndiansheldadayofmourningbecauseaswarmofbeeshadbeenfound.”

CREOLEFRIEDCHICKEN

SEASONEDBRINEANDCHICKEN

¼

cupsugar

3 tablespoonsWorcestershiresauce

3 tablespoonshotsauce

2 tablespoonssalt

1 tablespoongarlicpowder

CreoleFriedChickenWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSCreolefriedchickenrecipesshouldturnout

meatthatisdeeplyseasonedwiththecomplex,livelyheatofblack,white,andcayennepepper.Webuiltdepthofflavorinourfriedchickenwithathree-stepapproach: After brining the chicken, we sprinkled it with homemade Creoleseasoningforaddedflavorwithoutthedustysaltinessofpackagedspiceblends.Wealsoaddedseasoningtothechicken’sflourcoatingtolendapotentpunch.And for a peppery finish, we sprinkled the hot chicken with more seasoningwhenitcameoutoftheoil.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES4TO6

Instep1,donotsoakthechickenlongerthaneighthours,oritwillbetoosalty.Youwillneedatleasta6-quartDutchovenforthisrecipe.


CREOLECOATING

1 tablespoonpepper

1 tablespoondriedoregano

1 tablespoongarlicpowder

2 teaspoonsonionpowder

2 teaspoonscayennepepper

1 teaspoonwhitepepper

1 teaspooncelerysalt

2cupsall-purposeflour

1. FOR THE SEASONED BRINE AND CHICKEN: Dissolve sugar,Worcestershire,hotsauce,salt,andgarlicpowderin1quartcoldwaterinlargecontainer.Submergechickeninbrine,cover,andrefrigeratefor1hourorupto8hours.

2.FORTHECREOLECOATING:Combinepepper,oregano,garlicpowder,onionpowder,cayenne,whitepepper,andcelerysalt in largebowl; reserve¼cupspicemixture.Add flour tobowlwith remaining spicemixtureandstir tocombine.Setwirerackinrimmedbakingsheet.

3.Removechickenfrombrineandpatdrywithpapertowels.Sprinklechickenwith 3 tablespoons reserved spice mixture and toss to coat. Dredge chickenpieces in flourmixture. Shake excess flour from chicken and transfer towirerack.(Donotdiscardflourmixture.)

4.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento200degrees.Setcleanwirerackinrimmedbakingsheet.AddoiltolargeDutchovenuntilitmeasuresabout 2 inches deep and heat over medium-high heat to 375 degrees. Returnchickenpieces toflourmixtureand turn tocoat.Fryhalfofchicken,adjustingburnerasnecessary tomaintainoil temperaturebetween300and325degrees,until deep golden brown and breasts register 160 degrees and thighs anddrumsticksregister175degrees,10to12minutes.Transferchickentopreparedbaking sheet and place in oven. Return oil to 375 degrees and repeat withremaining chicken. Sprinkle crisp chicken with remaining 1 tablespoon spicemixture.Serve.

SECRETSTOBOLDLYFLAVOREDCREOLEFRIEDCHICKEN

1.Soakingchickeninbrineofsalt,sugar,Worcestershire,hotsauce,andgarlicpowderseasonschickenfully.

2. After brining, homemade Creole seasoning adds flavor without dusty saltiness of packagedspiceblends.

3.ThehomemadeCreoleseasoningalsolendspotentpunchtochicken’sflourcoating.

4.Forpepperyfinish,sprinklehotchickenwithmorehomemadeCreoleseasoningwhenitcomesoutofoil.

EXTRA-CRUNCHYFRIEDCHICKEN

2 tablespoonssalt

2 cupsplus6tablespoonsbuttermilk

1(3½-pound) whole chicken, cut into 8 pieces and trimmed (4 breast pieces, 2drumsticks,2thighs),wingsdiscarded



¾

Extra-CrunchyFriedChickenWHY THIS RECIPE WORKS: For well-seasoned, extra-crunchy fried

chickenwestartedbybrining thechicken inheavilysaltedbuttermilk.For thecrunchy coating, we combined flour with a little baking powder, then addedbuttermilk tomake a thick slurry,which clung tightly to themeat. Frying thechickenwith the lidonthepotforhalf thecookingtimecontainedthespatter-proneoilandkeptithot.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES4

Keepingtheoilatthecorrecttemperatureisessentialtoproducingcrunchyfriedchickenthatisneithertoobrownnortoogreasy.Youwillneedatleasta6-quartDutchovenfor this recipe. Ifyouwant toproduceaslightly lighterversionofthis recipe,youcan remove the skin from thechickenbefore soaking it in thebuttermilk.Thechickenwillbeslightlylesscrunchy.

teaspoondriedthyme

½

teaspoonpepper

¼

teaspoongarlicpowder

1 quartpeanutorvegetableoil

1. Dissolve salt in 2 cups buttermilk in large container. Submerge chicken inbrine,cover,andrefrigeratefor1hour.

2.Whisk flour, baking powder, thyme, pepper, and garlic powder together inlargebowl.Addremaining6tablespoonsbuttermilk;withyourfingersrubflourand buttermilk together until buttermilk is evenly incorporated into flour andmixtureresemblescoarse,wetsand.Setwirerackinsiderimmedbakingsheet.

3.Dredge chicken pieces in flourmixture and turn to coat thoroughly, gentlypressing flour mixture onto chicken. Shake excess flour from each piece ofchickenandtransfertopreparedbakingsheet.

4.Lineplatterwithtriplelayerofpapertowels.AddoiltolargeDutchovenuntilitmeasuresabout¾inchdeepandheatovermedium-highheatto375degrees.Place chicken pieces skin side down in oil, cover, and fry until deep goldenbrown,8 to10minutes.Remove lid after4minutes and lift chickenpieces tocheck for even browning; rearrange if some pieces are browning faster thanothers.Adjustburner,ifnecessary,tomaintainoiltemperaturebetween300and315 degrees. Turn chicken pieces over and continue to fry, uncovered, untilchickenpieces aredeepgoldenbrownon second sideandbreasts register160degreesand thighsanddrumsticks register175degrees,6 to8minutes.Usingtongs,transferchickentopreparedplatter;letstandfor5minutes.Serve.

EXTRA-SPICY,EXTRA-CRUNCHYFRIEDCHICKENAdd¼cuphotsaucetobuttermilk-saltmixtureinstep1.Replacedriedthymeandgarlicpowderwith2tablespoonscayennepepperand2teaspoonschilipowderinstep2.

STEPSTOANEXTRA-CRUNCHYCOATING

1.Soakchickeninbuttermilk-saltmixture.

2.Coatchickenwithbuttermilk-moistenedflour.

3.Addchickentohotoilandcoverpottocapturesteam.

4.Usetongstoflipchickenandfinishcookingwithcoveroff.

NASHVILLEHOTFRIEDCHICKEN

BRINEANDCHICKEN

½

cuphotsauce

½

cupsalt

½

cupsugar

1(3½-to4-pound)wholechicken,quartered

NashvilleHotFriedChickenWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSMimicking the heat of thisNashville hot

friedchickenwasharderthanweanticipated.Wecreatedaspicyexteriortothechicken by “blooming” the spices (cooking them in oil for a short period) tocreate a complex yet still lip-burning spicy flavor. We also added a healthyamountofhotsaucetoourbrinetoinjectspicyflavorintothechicken,makingtheflavormorethanskindeep.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES4TO6

Chicken quarters take longer to cook than smaller pieces. To ensure that theexteriordoesn’tburnbefore the insidecooks through,keep theoil temperaturebetween300and325degreeswhilethechickenisfrying.Youwillneedatleasta6-quartDutchovenforthisrecipe.ServethechickenastheydoinNashville,onwhitebreadwithpickles.

COATING


1 tablespooncayennepepper

½

teaspoonpaprika

½

teaspoonsugar

¼


Saltandpepper


1.FORTHEBRINEANDCHICKEN:Dissolvehotsauce,salt,andsugarin2quarts cold water in large container. Submerge chicken in brine, cover, andrefrigeratefor30minutesorupto1hour.

2. FOR THE COATING: Heat 3 tablespoons oil in small saucepan overmediumheatuntilshimmering.Addcayenne,paprika,sugar,garlicpowder,and½ teaspoon salt and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Transfer to smallbowl.

3. Setwire rack in rimmedbaking sheet.Remove chicken frombrine and patwith paper towels.Combine flour,½ teaspoon salt, and½ teaspoon pepper inlargebowl.Dredgechickenpiecestwoatatimeinflourmixture.Shakeexcessflour from chicken and transfer to prepared baking sheet. (Do not discardseasoned flour.)4. Adjust oven rack tomiddle position and heat oven to 200degrees.Setcleanwirerackinrimmedbakingsheet.AddremainingoiltolargeDutch oven until itmeasures about 2 inches deep and heat overmedium-highheatto350degrees.Returnchickenpiecestoflourmixtureandturntocoat.Fryhalf of chicken, adjusting burner as necessary to maintain oil temperaturebetween300and325degrees,untildeepgoldenbrownandbreastmeatregisters160degreesand legsregister175degrees,20 to25minutes.Drainchickenonpreparedbaking sheet andplace inoven.Returnoil to350degreesand repeatwithremainingchicken.Stirspicyoilmixturetorecombineandbrushoverbothsidesofchicken.Serve.

NASHVILLEEXTRA-HOTFRIEDCHICKENFor spiced oil in step 2, increase oil to ¼ cup, cayenne to 3½ tablespoons, and sugar to ¾teaspoonandadd1teaspoondrymustard.Continuewithrecipeasdirected.

QUARTERINGACHICKEN

1.Slicebetweendrumstickandbreast.Usehandstobendbacklegandpopoutjoint.

2.Cutthroughlegjoint.Donotseparatethighfromdrumstick.Repeatsteps1and2forotherlegquarter.

3. To separate breast from backbone, cut through ribs with kitchen shears on each side ofbackbone.

4.Cutthroughbreastbonetoseparatebreastandwingsectionintohalves.

CHICKENNUGGETS


2 cupswater


Saltandpepper


ChickenNuggetsWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSSomechickennuggetsrecipestaketheleast

desirable parts of the chicken and put them through a grinder.We opted forboneless,skinlesschickenbreasts.Briningthechickenpreventeditfromdryingout,andseasoningthebreastmeatcombateditsinherentlyblandflavor.Ground-up panko (Japanese-style bread crumbs) combined with flour and a pinch ofbakingsodaprovidedacrispybrownexteriorforournuggets.Usingwholeeggstoadherethecoatingmadethenuggetstooeggy.Eggwhitesalonedidn’thaveenough binding power, but we found that resting the nuggets before fryingsolvedtheproblem.

SERVES4TO6

Donotbrinethechickenlongerthan30minutesoritwillbetoosalty.Tocrushthepanko,placeitinsideazipper-lockbagandlightlybeatitwitharollingpin.Youwillneedatleasta6-quartDutchovenforthisrecipe.Thisrecipedoubleseasilyandfreezeswell.

1cuppankobreadcrumbs,crushed


½


½

teaspoonbakingsoda

3 largeeggwhites


1recipedippingsauce(recipesfollow)

1.Cuteachchickenbreastdiagonallyintothirds,thencuteachthirddiagonallyinto½-inch-thickpieces.Whiskwater,Worcestershire,and1tablespoonsaltinlargebowluntilsaltdissolves.Addchickenpieces,cover,andrefrigeratefor30minutes.

2.Remove chicken frombrine and pat drywith paper towels.Combine flour,panko, onion powder, 1 teaspoon salt,¾ teaspoon pepper, garlic powder, andbaking soda in shallow dish. Whisk egg whites in second shallow dish untilfoamy. Coat half of chicken with egg whites and dredge in flour mixture,pressinggently to adhere.Transfer toplate and repeatwith remainingchicken(don’tdiscardflourmixture).Letsitfor10minutes.

3.Adjustovenrack tomiddlepositionandheatoven to200degrees.Setwirerackinrimmedbakingsheet.AddoiltolargeDutchovenuntilitmeasuresabout¾ inch deep and heat overmedium-high heat to 350 degrees. Return chickenpiecestoflourmixtureandturntocoat,pressingflourmixturegentlytoadhere.Fryhalfofchickenuntildeepgoldenbrown,about3minutes, turninghalfwaythroughcooking.Transferchicken topreparedbakingsheetandplace inoven.Returnoilto350degreesandrepeatwithremainingchicken.Servewithdippingsauce.

TOMAKEAHEAD: Let fried nuggets cool, transfer to zipper-lock bag, andfreezeforupto1month.Toserve,adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento350degrees.Placenuggetsonrimmedbakingsheetandbake,flippingonce,untilheatedthrough,about15minutes.

½ cupyellowmustard⅓ cuphoney

Saltandpepper

HONEY-MUSTARDSAUCEMAKES¾CUP,ENOUGHFOR1RECIPECHICKENNUGGETS

Whiskmustardandhoney inmediumbowluntil smooth.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.

¾ cupapple,apricot,orhotpepperjelly

1 tablespoonwhitevinegar

½

teaspoonsoysauce

⅛


Pinchgroundginger

Pinchcayennepepper

Saltandpepper

SWEETANDSOURSAUCE

MAKES¾CUP,ENOUGHFOR1RECIPECHICKENNUGGETS

Whiskjelly,vinegar,soysauce,garlicpowder,ginger,andcayenneinmediumbowluntilsmooth.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.

¾ cupplus1tablespoonall-purposeflour½

cupvegetableoil

1onion,choppedfine

1greenbellpepper,stemmed,seeded,andchopped

1celeryrib,choppedfine

garliccloves,minced

GumboWHYTHIS RECIPEWORKS Our biggest challenge in making gumbo

wasfindinganeasierwaytopreparethedarkbrownroux,thefatandflourpastethatthickensthestewandaddsflavor.Wecreatedarelativelyhands-offrouxbytoasting the flouron thestovetop,adding theoil, and finishing the roux in theoven.For the soupbase,we startedbymakingour own shrimp stock, but theprocesswastime-consuming.Instead,weswitchedtostore-boughtchickenbrothfortified with fish sauce. Tasters preferred meaty chicken thighs to breastsbecausetheyhadmoreflavor.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES6TO8

Aheavycast-ironDutchovenyieldsthefastestovenroux.Ifalightweightpotisallyou’vegot,increasetheoventimeby10minutes.Thechickenbrothmustbeat room temperature to prevent lumps from forming. Fish sauce lends anessentialsavoryquality.Sincethesaltcontentoffishsaucevariesamongbrands,tastethefinishedgumbobeforeseasoningwithsalt.

5

1 teaspoonmincedfreshthyme

¼


1(14.5-ounce)candicedtomatoes,drained

3¾ cupschickenbroth,roomtemperature¼

cupfishsauce

Saltandpepper

2poundsbone-inchickenthighs,skinremoved,trimmed

8ouncesandouillesausage,halvedlengthwiseandslicedthin

2cupsfrozenokra,thawed(optional)

2poundsextra-largeshrimp(21to25perpound),peeledanddeveined

1.Adjustovenracktolowestpositionandheatovento350degrees.Toast¾cupflourinDutchovenovermediumheat,stirringconstantly,untiljustbeginningtobrown,about5minutes.Offheat,whiskinoiluntilsmooth.Cover,transferpottooven,andcookuntilmixture isdeepbrownandfragrant,about45minutes.(Rouxcanberefrigeratedfor1week.Touse,heatinDutchovenovermedium-highheat,whiskingconstantly,untiljustsmoking,andcontinuewithstep2.)2.TransferDutchoventostovetopandwhiskcookedrouxtocombine.Addonion,bell pepper, and celery and cook over medium heat, stirring frequently, untilvegetablesaresoftened,about10minutes.Stirinremaining1tablespoonflour,garlic, thyme, and cayenne and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Addtomatoes and cook until dry, about 1minute. Slowlywhisk in broth and fishsauce until smooth. Season chicken with pepper. Add chicken to vegetablemixtureandbringtoboil.

3. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, covered, until chicken is tender,about30minutes.Skimfatandtransferchickentoplate.Whenchickeniscoolenoughtohandle,cutintobite-sizepiecesandreturntopot;discardbones.

4.Stir insausageandokra, ifusing,andsimmeruntilheated through,about5minutes.Addshrimpandsimmeruntilcookedthrough,about5minutes.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Serve.(Gumbocanberefrigeratedfor1day.)TOMAKEAHEAD: Gumbo can bemade through step 3 and refrigerated for 3days.Toserve,bringgumbotosimmer,covered,inDutchoven.Removelidandproceedwithrecipeasdirected.

NEWCOMERTOTHEBAYOU

Asianfishsauce?Admittedly,it’sanunconventionalidea.Andhere’sthecoolpart:NewOrleanshas a well-established Vietnamese community; it began after the fall of Saigon. As far as weknow, we’re the first to put fish sauce in gumbo, but there’s no question that these newimmigrants to NewOrleans are having an impact on the city’s storied food traditions: They’vetossedlemongrassintocrawfishboils,organizedafarmers’marketwithsuchexoticitemsasngogai(anherb),bananabuds,andlonganfruit,andputthebanhmisandwichonthecity’smust-eatfoodlist,righttherenexttothecity’ssignaturepo’boys.

NEWORLEANSBARBECUESHRIMP

2poundsextra-large(21–25perpound)shrimp(seenote)

½

teaspoonsalt

½



6tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,cutinto6pieces

NewOrleansBarbecueShrimpWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSNamedforthe“barbecue”colorratherthan

the cookingmethod, thisNewOrleans skillet shrimp dish relies on a velvety,butter-basedsaucetoflavorpeel-onshrimp.Toachieveperfectlycookedshrimp,westartedbysearingthemfirsttopartiallycookthemandthenlaterreturnedtheshrimptothefinishedsaucetogentlycookthrough.Byusingarouxtothickenthesauceandsautéingthearomaticswithtomatopaste,wewereabletocreateasilky, flavorful sauce that clung perfectly to the shrimp. We replaced time-consuming seafood stockwith bottled clam juice, a technique the test kitchenhasusedbefore.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES4

Although authentic barbecue shrimp is always made with shell-on shrimp,peeledanddeveinedshrimpmaybeused.Light-ormedium-bodiedbeersworkbesthere.ServewithTabascosauceandFrenchbread,ifdesired.

2 teaspoonsall-purposeflour

1 teaspoontomatopaste

1 teaspoonmincedfreshrosemary


½

teaspoondriedoregano


¾

cupbottledclamjuice

½

cupbeer

1 tablespoonWorcestershiresauce

1.SEARSHRIMP:Patshrimpdrywithpapertowelsandsprinklewithsaltandcayenne.Heat1tablespoonoilinlargeskilletovermedium-highheatuntiljustsmoking.Cookhalfofshrimp,withoutmoving,untilspottybrownononeside,about1minute;transfertolargeplate.Repeatwithremainingoilandshrimp.

2.MAKESAUCE:Melt1tablespoonbutterinemptyskilletovermediumheat.Add flour, tomato paste, rosemary, thyme, oregano, and garlic and cook untilfragrant,about30seconds.Stirinclamjuice,beer,andWorcestershire,scrapingup any browned bits, and bring to boil. Return shrimp and any accumulatedjuicestoskillet.Reduceheattomedium-lowandsimmer,covered,untilshrimpare cooked through, about 2 minutes. Off heat, stir in remaining butter untilincorporated.Serve.

NOTYOURAVERAGEBARBECUESAUCE

Barbecue sauce conjures up an image of a thick, sticky tomato-basedmop, but NewOrleansBarbecueShrimpisbathedinaspicyherbedbuttersaucemadewiththeseingredients.

CLAMJUICEThebrinybitemakesasimplereplacementforfishstock.

BEERThemellow,slightlyhoppybitternessbalancestherichbutter.

WORCESTERSHIREOftenusedtoaddbold,ultrasavoryflavortodishes.

BUTTERAddingbuttertwicemakesarich,satinysauce.

CHINESECHICKENSALAD

2 oranges

¼

cupricevinegar

¼

cupsoysauce

3 tablespoonsgratedfreshginger

3 tablespoonssugar

tablespoonAsianchili-garlicsauce

ChineseChickenSaladWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSWeaimedtogivethisstalechainrestaurant

classic a freshmakeover. The salad-bar pile ons, from chowmein noodles tosnowpeastowaterchestnuts,gottheax.Instead,westartedwithcrispromainelettuce,napacabbage,bellpeppers,cilantro,andscallions.Tokeepthechickenfromtasting likeanafterthought,weeschewedrotisseriechicken.Wepoachedboneless, skinless chicken breasts in a flavorfulmixture of soy sauce, orangejuice,ricevinegar,andginger,settingasidesomeofthemixturetowhiskwithsesameandvegetableoils forabolddressing.Wefinished thedishwith freshorangesandroastedpeanuts.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES6

Youcansubstitute1mincedcloveofgarlicand¼teaspoonofcayennepepperfortheAsianchili-garlicsauce.

1


2 tablespoonstoastedsesameoil

4(6-to8-ounce)boneless,skinlesschickenbreasts,trimmed

2romainelettucehearts(12ounces),slicedthin

½ smallheadnapacabbage,coredandslicedthin(6cups)

2redbellpeppers,stemmed,seeded,andcutinto2-inch-longmatchsticks

1 cupfreshcilantroleaves

1cupsalted,dry-roastedpeanuts,chopped

6scallions,slicedthin

1.Cut thin slice from topandbottomofeachorange,exposing fruit.Sliceoffrind and pith, cutting from top to bottom. Working over bowl, cut orangesegmentsfromthinmembraneandtransfersegmentstosecondbowl;setaside.Squeezejuicefrommembraneintofirstbowl(juiceshouldmeasure¼cup).

2.Combineorangejuice,vinegar,soysauce,ginger,sugar,andchili-garlicsauceinbowl.Transfer½cupoforangejuicemixtureto12-inchskillet.Slowlywhiskvegetable oil and sesame oil into remaining orange juice mixture to makevinaigrette;setaside.

3. Bring orange juice mixture in skillet to boil. Add chicken, reduce heat tomedium-low, cover, and simmer until meat registers 160 degrees, 10 to 15minutes,flippinghalfwaythroughcooking.Transferchickentoplateandletrestfor5to10minutes.

4.Meanwhile, boil pan juices until reduced to¼ cup, 1 to 3minutes, and setaside.Using2forks,shredchickenintobite-sizepieces.Offheat,addchicken,anyaccumulatedjuices,and2tablespoonsvinaigrettetoskillet.Tosstocoatandletsitfor10minutes.

5. Toss lettuce, cabbage, bell peppers, cilantro, peanuts, and scallions withremaining vinaigrette in large bowl. Transfer to serving platter and top withchickenandoranges.Serve.

SHOPPING FOR AROMATIC ASIANINGREDIENTS

Consider keeping these three versatile ingredients on hand to add authentic Asian flavor to avarietyofdishes,includingourChineseChickenSalad.

RICEVINEGARThisJapanesevinegarissweetandmild.

ASIANCHILI-GARLICSAUCEIfyoulikegarlicandheat,you’llreachforthisbottleoften.

TOASTEDSESAMEOILThisaromatic,boldlyflavoredoilismadefromroastedsesameseeds.Itsflavordoesn’tholdupto

cooking,soadditoffheat.

PATTYMELTS

10 slicesheartyryesandwichbread

2 tablespoonswholemilk

¾

teaspoononionpowder

Saltandpepper

1½ pounds85percentleangroundbeef


onions,halvedandslicedthin

PattyMeltsWHY THIS RECIPEWORKS Because the ground beef patty for patty

melts is traditionallycookedtwice—brownedonce inbutterandasecondtimewhile the sandwich is griddled—many recipes produce something resemblingdried-outhockeypucks.Tosolvetheproblem,weincorporatedapanade(apasteofbreadandmilk)intothemeat.Tobumpuptheflavorofourburgers,weusedryebreadandonionpowderinthepanade.Coveringthecookingonionswiththepattiestrappedsomeofthesteamandhelpedtheonionstosoftenquicker.Thisalsoallowedtheflavorsofthemeattoseepintotheonionsandviceversa.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES4

Tomakesure themeltsholdtogether,useryebreadthat’sslicedabout½inchthick.

2

8ouncesSwisscheese,shredded(2cups)

1. Adjust oven rack tomiddle position and heat oven to 200 degrees. Tear 2piecesofbreadinto½-inchpieces.Usingpotatomasher,mashtornbread,milk,onion powder, ¾ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper in large bowl untilsmooth. Add beef and gently knead until well combined. Divide meat into 4equalportions.Shapeeachportioninto6by4-inchoval.

2.Melt1 tablespoonbutter in12-inchnonstick skilletovermedium-highheat.Cook 2 patties until well browned on first side, about 5minutes. Transfer tolargeplate,brownedsideup,andrepeatwithremaining2patties.

3.Pouroffallbut1teaspoonfatfrompan.Addonionsand½teaspoonsaltandcook,stirringoccasionally,untilgoldenbrown,5to7minutes.Arrangepatties,browned side up, on top of onions, pouring any accumulated juices into pan.Reduce heat to medium and cook, shaking pan occasionally, until onions aretenderandburgersarecookedthrough,about5minutes.

4.Divide1cupcheeseamong4slicesbread.Topwithpatties,onions,remainingcheese, and remaining bread. Wipe out skillet with paper towels. Melt 1tablespoon butter in now-empty skillet overmediumheat.Cook 2 sandwichesuntil golden brown and cheese ismelted, 3 to 4minutes per side. Transfer torimmed baking sheet and keep warm in oven. Repeat with remaining 1tablespoonbutterandremaining2sandwiches.Serve.

HEYDAYOFTHESANDWICH

Whenitcomestoinventivesandwiches,youcan’ttop1920sAmerica.Justadecadeearlier,NewYorkersweresaidtoeatonlysixtypesofsandwich:sardine,tongue,roastbeef,Swisscheese,liverwurst,andegg,accordingtoWilliamGrimes’sbookAppetiteCity:ACulinaryHistoryofNewYork. But three factors—Prohibition, the newfound popularity of automobiles, and women’sincreasingindependence—hadcreatedatearoomcrazeacrossthecountry,makingsandwichesso popular that one New Yorker counted nearly 1,000 different types. In these newly mintedsalons of sandwiches, customers chose among dubious combinations like cheese-ketchup,lemon-prune, and baked bean–celery. Cookbooks reflected the trend, offering other oddpartnerships,suchaspeanutbutterandchilisauce,nottomentionshreddedcoconut,cucumber,andmayonnaise.MakesElvis’sprizedsandwichoffriedpeanutbutter,banana,andbaconsoundalmosttame.

OKLAHOMAFRIEDONIONBURGERS

1largeonion,halvedandsliced⅛inchthick

Saltandpepper

12ounces85percentleangroundbeef


1 teaspoonvegetableoil

OklahomaFriedOnionBurgersWHY THIS RECIPEWORKS This Oklahoma specialty features a thin

pattyofgroundbeeftoppedwithacrispycrustofcaramelizedonionscookedonagriddle.Servedonabutterygrilledbunwithyellowmustard,dillpickles,andasliceofAmericancheese, thisexceptionalburger iswellwortha road trip.Tomake them at home,we sliced and salted the onions, then squeezed out theirexcessmoisture so they’dbrownquicklyand stick to theburgers.Wemashedtheonionsintotheburgers,thenputtheburgersonabutteredskilletonionsidedowntobrowntheonions.Thenweflippedtheburgersandturneduptheheattofinishcookingandgetanicesear.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES4

Amandolinemakesquickworkofslicing theonion thinly.Squeeze thesaltedonionslicesuntilthey’reasdryaspossible,ortheywon’tadheretothepatties.These burgers are traditionally served with yellow mustard and slices of dillpickle.

4slicesAmericancheese(4ounces)

4hamburgerbuns,butteredandtoasted

1.Combineonionand1teaspoonsaltinbowlandtosstocombine.Transfertocolander and let sit for 30minutes, tossingoccasionally.Using tongs, transferoniontocleandishtowel,gatheredges,andsqueezeoniondry.Sprinklewith½teaspoonpepper.

2.Divideonionmixtureinto4separatemoundsonrimmedbakingsheet.Formbeefinto4lightlypackedballsandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Placebeefballson top of onionmounds and flatten beef firmly so onion adheres and pattiesmeasure4inchesindiameter.

3. Melt butter with oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat. Usingspatula,transferpattiestoskillet,onionsidedown,andcookuntilonionisdeepgoldenbrownandbeginningtocrisparoundedges,6to8minutes.Flipburgers,increase heat to high, and cook until well browned on second side, about 2minutes.Place1 slice cheeseoneachbottombun.Placeburgersonbuns, adddesiredtoppings,andserve.

KEYSTOFRIEDONIONBURGERS

Afewtrickshelpedtheonionsadheretotheburgersandcaramelizeratherthanburn.

1.After you’ve salted theonionsand squeezed themdry, divide into four piles, place thebeefballsontop,andpress.

2.Browntheonionsideovergentlermediumheat.Thenfliptheburgersandturnuptheheattosearthebeefside.

ATLANTABRISKET

1(3½-pound)beefbrisket,flatcut,fattrimmedto¼inchthick

Saltandpepper


1poundonions,halvedandsliced½inchthick

AtlantaBrisketWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSAtlantabrisketisasouthernbraisefeaturing

onionsoupmix,ketchup,andAtlanta’sownCoca-Cola.Wewantedtokeeptheregionalcharmbutupdatetheconvenience-productflavor.Toseasonthebrisket,wepierceditwithafork,saltedit,andletitsitovernight.Foragreatcrust,wesearedthebrisketweigheddownwithaheavypot.Finally,forthecharacteristicbraising liquid, we mixed cola and ketchup and replaced the artificial-tastingsoup mix with our own blend of sautéed onions, onion and garlic powders,brownsugar,anddriedthyme.Themixturebothflavoredthemeatandbecameasweet,tangysauceforserving.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES6

Parchmentpaperprovidesanonreactivebarrierbetweenthecola-basedbraisingliquid and the aluminum foil. A whole brisket is comprised of two smallerroasts:theflatcutandthepointcut.Forthisrecipe,weprefertheflatcut,whichisrectangularinshapeandleanerthantheknobby,well-marbledpointcut.Theflat cut is topped with a thick fat cap; make sure that the fat cap isn’tovertrimmed.

2 cupscola

1½

cupsketchup


2 teaspoonspackeddarkbrownsugar


1 teaspoondriedthyme

1.Using fork,pokeholesalloverbrisket.Rubentire surfaceofbrisketwith1tablespoonsalt.Wrapbrisketinplasticwrapandrefrigerateforatleast6orupto24hours.

2.Adjustovenracktolower-middlepositionandheatovento325degrees.Patbrisketdrywithpaper towels and seasonwithpepper.Heat2 teaspoonsoil in12-inchnonstickskilletovermedium-highheatuntiljustsmoking.Placebrisketfatsidedowninskillet;weighdownbrisketwithheavyDutchovenorcast-ironskillet and cookuntilwell brownedon bottom, about 4minutes.Removepot,flip brisket, and replace pot on top of brisket.Cook on second side untilwellbrowned,about4minuteslonger.Transferbriskettoplate.

3.Heatremaining2teaspoonsoilinnow-emptyskilletovermediumheatuntilshimmering.Add onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and goldenbrown,10to12minutes.Transferonionsto13by9-inchbakingdishandspreadoutinevenlayer.

4. Combine cola, ketchup, onion powder, sugar, garlic powder, thyme, 1teaspoonsalt,and1teaspoonpepperinbowl.Placebrisketfatsideupontopofonionsandpourcolamixtureoverbrisket.Placeparchmentpaperoverbrisketandcoverdishtightlywithaluminumfoil.Bakeuntiltenderandforkslipseasilyinandoutofmeat,3½to4hours.Letbrisket rest in liquid,uncovered, for30minutes.

5.Transferbriskettocarvingboard.Skimanyfatfromtopofsaucewithlargespoon.Slicebrisket againstgrain into¼-inch-thick slices and return tobakingdish.Servebrisketwithsauce.

TOMAKEAHEAD: Follow recipe through step 4.Allow brisket to cool insauce,cover,andrefrigerateovernightorupto24hours.Toserve,slicebrisket,return to sauce, and cover with parchment paper. Cover baking dish withaluminumfoilandcookin350-degreeovenuntilheatedthrough,about1hour.

GETTINGAGREATSEAR

Brisketisaflatcutofmeatthatcurlsupwhenyoutrytosearit.WefixedthisproblembyweighingdownthebrisketwithaheavyDutchoven(wrapped in foil tomakecleanupeasier) toensureamoreevensear.

SLOW-COOKERBBQBEEFBRISKET

SPICERUBANDBRISKET

½

cuppackeddarkbrownsugar

2tablespoonsmincedcannedchipotlechileinadobosauce

1 tablespoongroundcumin

1 tablespoonpaprika

Slow-CookerBBQBeefBrisketWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSBarbecuedbrisketintheslowcooker?You

bet.Tominimizethemoistureabsorbedbythebrisket(whichtraditionallyisn’tcookeddirectly in liquid),we cameupwith anunorthodox solution: elevatingthemeatoffthebottomoftheslowcookerwithaninvertedloafpan.Theliquidexudedfromthemeatduringcookingwasdrawnundertheloafpanbyavacuumeffect,whichmeantthattheslowcookermorecloselymimickedthedryheatofreal barbecue. To bump up the flavor of this liquid,we added sautéed onion,garlic,tomatopaste,andchipotlechiles.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES8TO10

Scoringthefatonthebrisketat½-inchintervalswillallowtherubtopenetratethemeat.Twodisposablealuminumloafpansstackedinsideoneanothercanbesubstitutedforthemetalloafpan.

2 teaspoonspepper

1 teaspoonsalt

1(4-to5-pound)brisketroast,fattrimmedto¼inchthickandscoredlightly

AROMATICSANDSAUCE


1onion,choppedfine


1 tablespoonchilipowder

1tablespoonmincedcannedchipotlechileinadobosauce


½ cupwater,plusextraasneeded¼

cupketchup

1 tablespooncidervinegar

¼

teaspoonliquidsmoke

Saltandpepper

1.FORTHESPICERUBANDBRISKET:Combinesugar,chipotle,cumin,paprika,pepper,andsaltinbowl.Rubsugarmixturealloverbrisket.Coverwithplasticwrapandletsitatroomtemperaturefor1hourorrefrigerateforupto24hours.

2. FORTHEAROMATICSANDSAUCE: Heat oil in 12-inch skillet overmedium-highheatuntilshimmering.Cookonionuntilsoftened,about5minutes.Add tomato paste and cook until beginning to brown, about 1minute. Stir inchili powder, chipotle, and garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds.Moundonionmixtureincenterofslowcooker,arrangeinvertedmetalloafpanoveronionmixture,andplacebrisketfatsideupontopofloafpan.Addwatertoslow cooker, cover, and cook on high until fork inserted in brisket can beremovedwithnoresistance,7to8hours(orcookonlowfor10to12hours).

3.Transferbrisketto13by9-inchbakingdish,coverwithaluminumfoil,andletrest for 30minutes. Carefully remove loaf pan from slow cooker. Pour onionmixtureandaccumulatedjuicesintolargebowlandskimfat.(Youshouldhaveabout2cupsdefattedjuices;ifyouhaveless,supplementwithwater.)

4.Transferbriskettocarvingboard,slicethinagainstgrain,andreturntobakingdish. Pour 1 cup reserved defatted juices over sliced brisket.Whisk ketchup,vinegar,andliquidsmokeintoremainingjuices.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Serve,passingsauceattable.

TOMAKEAHEAD:Instep3,wrapbriskettightlyinfoilandrefrigerateforupto3days.(Refrigeratejuicesseparately.)Toserve,transferfoil-wrappedbriskettobakingdishandheatin350-degreeovenuntilbrisketisheatedthrough,about1hour.Reheatjuicesinmicrowaveorsaucepansetovermediumheat.Continuewithrecipeasdirected.

PREVENTINGWATERLOGGEDBRISKET

Tominimizethemoistureabsorbedbythebrisket,weplacethemeatontopofa loafpan.Thejuicesexudedby themeataredrawnunder thepanbyavacuumeffect,creating lessmoisturedirectlybelowthemeat.

1.Pileonionmixtureunderinvertedloafpanandplacebrisketontop.

2. After cooking, remove loaf pan to release juices, whichmake a flavorful base for barbecuesauce.

TENNESSEEWHISKEYPORKCHOPS

½ cupJackDaniel’sTennesseeWhiskeyorbourbon½

cupapplecider

2 tablespoonspackedlightbrownsugar

4 teaspoonscidervinegar

1 tablespoonDijonmustard

½

teaspoonvanillaextract

TennesseeWhiskeyPorkChopsWHY THIS RECIPE WORKS We wanted a foolproof recipe for this

southern specialty. We started by making a whiskey-flavored marinade, thensteeped the chops in it for at least one hour prior to cooking.We cooked thechopsinahotskilletandthenusedthesamepantopreparetheglaze—brownedbitsleftbehindbythechopsinthepanaddeddeep,meatyflavor.Allowingthecooked chops to sit in the pan in the glaze for a fewminutes before servinghelpedensureitclungtothemeat.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES4

Bourbon tastes fine, but we think it’s worth purchasing the real deal—JackDaniel’s TennesseeWhiskey—for this recipe.Watch the glaze closely duringthe last few minutes of cooking—the bubbles become very small as itapproachestherightconsistency.

⅛ teaspooncayennepepper

4(8-to10-ounce)bone-in,center-cutporkchops,about1inchthick,trimmed


Saltandpepper


1. Whisk whiskey, cider, sugar, 2 teaspoons vinegar, mustard, vanilla, andcayenne together inbowl.Transfer¼cupwhiskeymixture to1-gallonzipper-lockbag,addporkchops,pressairoutofbag,andseal.Turnbagtocoatchopswithmarinadeandrefrigerate1to2hours.Reserveremainingwhiskeymixtureseparately.

2. Remove chops from bag, pat drywith paper towels, and discardmarinade.Heatoilin12-inchskilletovermedium-highheatuntiljustbeginningtosmoke.Seasonchopswith salt andpepper andcookuntilwell brownedonboth sidesandapeekintothickestpartofachopusingparingknifeyieldsstill-pinkmeat¼inch from surface, 6 to 8 minutes, flipping chops halfway through cooking.Transferchopstoplateandcovertightlywithaluminumfoil.

3.Add reservedwhiskeymixture to skillet and bring to boil, scraping up anybrowned bits with wooden spoon. Cook until reduced to thick glaze, 3 to 5minutes.Reduceheattomedium-lowand,holdingontochops,tipplatetoaddany accumulated juices back to skillet. Add remaining 2 teaspoons vinegar,whiskinbutter,andsimmerglazeuntilthickandsticky,2to3minutes.Removepanfromheat.

4.Returnchopstoskilletandletrestinpan,turningchopsoccasionallytocoatbothsides,until sauceclings tochopsandmeat registers145degrees,about5minutes.Transferchopstoplatterandspoonsauceover.Serve.

BREAKOUTTHEGOODSTUFF

Bourbon was fine, but we loved the deep, caramel-flavored glaze we got when using JackDaniel’sinthisrecipe.TennesseewhiskeydiffersfromKentuckybourbonbecauseofadistiller’strickcalledtheLincolnCountyprocess,inwhichthedistilledwhiskeyisfilteredoverhardmaplecharcoal. Then, like bourbon, it is aged in charred oak barrels,where it picks up its distinctivecaramelcolorandsmokyflavor.

MEMPHIS-STYLEWETRIBSFORACROWD

SPICERUB

¼

cuppaprika

2 tablespoonspackedbrownsugar

2 tablespoonssalt

2 teaspoonspepper


2 teaspoonsgranulatedgarlic

Memphis-StyleWetRibsforaCrowdWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSForthesesaucyMemphiswetribs,apotent

spice rubperformsdoubleduty, seasoning themeatandcreating thebackboneforourbarbecuesauce.Tyingtworackstogetherallowedustodoubleouryieldandcookfourheftyracksofribsatonce.Tokeeptheribsmoist,wegrilledthemoverindirectheatandbastedthemwithatraditional“mop”ofjuiceandvinegar.Afterafewhoursofsmokingonthegrill,webrushedtheribswithourflavorfulbarbecue sauce and transferred them to the steady, even heat of the oven tofinishtenderizing.

SERVES8TO12

BARBECUESAUCEANDMOP

1½

cupsketchup

¾ cupapplejuice,plus½cupformop¼

cupmolasses

¼ cupcidervinegar,plus¼cupformop¼

cupWorcestershiresauce

2tablespoonsyellowmustard,plus1tablespoonformop

2 teaspoonspepper

RIBS

4(2½-to3-pound)racksSt.Louis–stylespareribs,trimmed,membraneremoved

2cupswoodchips,soakedinwaterfor15minutesanddrained

1(13by9-inch)disposablealuminumroastingpan(ifusingcharcoal)or1(8½by6-inch)disposablealuminumpan(ifusinggas)

1.FORTHESPICERUB:Combineallingredientsinbowl.

2. FOR THE BARBECUE SAUCE ANDMOP: Combine ketchup, ¾ cupapple juice, molasses, ¼ cup vinegar,Worcestershire, 2 tablespoons mustard,and2tablespoonsspicerubinmediumsaucepanandbringtoboilovermediumheat.Reduceheattomedium-lowandsimmeruntilthickenedandreducedto2cups,about20minutes.Offheat,stirinpepper;setaside.Forthemop,whisk½cupapplejuice,¼cupvinegar,1tablespoonmustard,and¼cupbarbecuesaucetogetherinbowl.

3.FORTHERIBS:Patribsdrywithpapertowelsandseasonwithremainingspicerub.Place1rackofribs,meatysidedown,oncuttingboard.Placesecondrackofribs,meatysideup,directlyontopoffirstrack,arrangingthickendovertapered end. Tie racks together at 2-inch intervals with kitchen twine. Repeatwithremaining2racksofribsfortwobundles.Usinglargepieceofheavy-dutyaluminumfoil,wrapsoakedchipsinfoilpacketandcutseveralventholesintop.

4A. FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL: Open bottom vent halfway and placedisposableroastingpanon1sideofgrill.Fillpanwith2quartswater.Arrange3quartsunlitcharcoalbriquettesonothersideofgrill.Lightlargechimneystarterhalf filled with charcoal briquettes (3 quarts). When top coals are partiallycoveredwithash,pourevenlyoverunlitcoals.Placewoodchippacketoncoals.Setcookinggrateinplace,cover,andopenlidventhalfway.Heatgrilluntilhotandwoodchipsaresmoking,about5minutes.

4B. FORAGASGRILL: Place wood chip packet and disposable pan overprimary burner and fill pan with 2 cups water. Turn primary burner to high(leave other burners off), cover, and heat grill until hot and wood chips aresmoking,about15minutes. (Adjustprimaryburnerasneededtomaintaingrilltemperatureof275to300degrees.)

5.Cleanandoilcookinggrate.Placeribsoncoolersideofgrillandbastewithone-thirdofmop.Cover (positioning lidventover ribs for charcoal) andcookfor2hours,flippingandswitchingpositionsofribsandbastingagainwithhalfofremainingmophalfwaythroughcooking.

6.Adjustovenrackstoupper-middleandlower-middlepositionsandheatoven

to300degrees.Line2rimmedbakingsheetswithfoil.Cutkitchentwinefromracks.Transfer2racks,meatysideup,toeachsheet.Bastewithremainingmopandbakefor2hours,switchingandrotatingsheetshalfwaythroughbaking.

7.Removeribsfromovenandbrushevenlywith½cupbarbecuesauce.Returntoovenandcontinuetobakeuntiltender,bastingwith½cupbarbecuesauceandswitchingand rotating sheets twiceduringbaking, about45minutes. (Ribsdonotneedtobeflippedandshouldremainmeatysideupduringbaking.)Transferribstocarvingboard.Brushevenlywithremaining½cupbarbecuesauce, tentloosely with foil, and let rest for 20 minutes. Cut ribs in between bones toseparate.Serve.

BALTIMOREPITBEEF

TIGERSAUCE

½

cupmayonnaise

½

cuphotpreparedhorseradish

1 teaspoonlemonjuice

1garlicclove,minced

Saltandpepper

BaltimorePitBeefWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSBaltimoreisknownforitspitbeef,replete

withawell-seasoned,charredcrustandarosypinkinterior.Themeatisshavedpaperthin,piledontoakaiserroll,toppedwithahorseradish-ymayoknownastigersauce,andfinallycoveredwithslicedonions.Westartedbycuttingabeefytopsirloinroastinhalfandslow-cookedthemeatonthecoolsideofthegrill—afoil shield providedmaximumprotection so themeat didn’t dry out.Then formaximumchar,wegenerouslysearedbothpiecesallover.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES10

Whenshoppingforthepreparedhorseradish,buythebrined(notcreamy)varietyand,ifnecessary,drainit.

PITBEEF

4 teaspoonskoshersalt

1 tablespoonpaprika

1 tablespoonpepper


1 teaspoondriedoregano

¼


1(4-to5-pound)bonelesstopsirloinroast,trimmedandhalvedcrosswise

10 kaiserrolls

1onion,slicedthin

1.FORTHETIGERSAUCE:Whiskmayonnaise, horseradish, lemon juice,andgarlictogetherinbowl.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.(Saucecanberefrigeratedforupto2days.)

2. FOR THE PIT BEEF: Combine salt, paprika, pepper, garlic powder,oregano,andcayenneinbowl.Patroastsdrywithpapertowelsandrubwith2tablespoons seasoning mixture. Wrap meat tightly with plastic wrap andrefrigeratefor6to24hours.

3A. FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL: Open bottom vent halfway. Light largechimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts).When top coals arepartially coveredwith ash,pour evenlyoverhalfofgrill.Set cookinggrate inplace,cover,andopenlidventhalfway.Heatgrilluntilhot,about5minutes.

3B.FORAGASGRILL:Turnallburners tohigh,cover,andheatgrilluntilhot, about 15minutes.Leave primary burner on high and turn other burner(s)off.

4.Cleanandoilcookinggrate.Unwraproastsandplaceendtoendonlongsideof18by12-inchsheetofaluminumfoil.Looselyfoldoppositelongsideoffoilaround top of roasts. Place meat on cool part of grill with foil-covered sideclosest toheatsource.Cover (positioning lidventovermeat ifusingcharcoal)andcookuntilmeatregisters100degrees,45minutesto1hour.

5.Transferroaststoplateanddiscardfoil.Turnallburnerstohighifusinggas.Ifusingcharcoal,carefullyremovecookinggrateandlightlargechimneystarterthree-quarters filled with charcoal briquettes (4½ quarts).When top coals arepartially coveredwith ash, pour evenly over spent coals. Set cooking grate inplaceandcover.Heatgrilluntilhot,about5minutes.

6.Patroastsdrywithpapertowelsandrubwithremainingspicemixture.Placemeatonhotpartofgrill.Cook(coveredifusinggas),turningoccasionally,untilcharredonallsidesandmeatregisters120to125degrees(formedium-rare),10to20minutes.Transfermeattocarvingboard,tentlooselywithfoil,andletrestfor15minutes.Slicemeat thin againstgrain.Transfer slicedbeef to rolls, topwithonionslices,anddrizzlewithsauce.Serve.

PREVENTINGPITBEEFFROMDRYINGOUT

Evenwithindirectheat,thesidesoftheroastsclosesttothefirecanovercook.Asimplefoilshieldprotectsthem.

CINCINNATICHILI


2onions,choppedfine


2 tablespoonschilipowder


1½

CincinnatiChiliWHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Warm spices and a host of unexpected

garnisheslendCincinnatichilirecipestheiruniqueflavors—butcansometimesmuddle the dish. To recreate this Midwestern recipe in our own kitchen, wenarrowedouringredientlist tofourspices.Tomatopasteaddedrichnesstoourchili,whiledarkbrownsugargaveitasweettang.Boilingthebeefinwaterkeptitextremely tenderduringcooking—wecookedoursdirectly inourspicesandliquid to infuse the meat with their intense flavor. Serving our chili overspaghetti,andacombinationofcheese,onions, redbeans,andoystercrackers,gave us the true Cincinnati chili experience. See the sidebar that follows therecipe.

SERVES6TO8

Usecannedtomatosauceforthisrecipe—donotusejarredspaghettisauce.

teaspoonsgroundcinnamon

1garlicclove,minced

Saltandpepper

¼

teaspoongroundallspice

2 cupschickenbroth

2 cupscannedtomatosauce

2 tablespoonscidervinegar

2 teaspoonspackeddarkbrownsugar


1.HeatoilinDutchovenovermedium-highheatuntilshimmering.Cookonionsuntil softandbrownedaroundedges,about8minutes.Add tomatopaste,chilipowder, oregano, cinnamon, garlic, 1 teaspoon salt, ¾ teaspoon pepper, andallspice and cook until fragrant, about 1minute. Stir in chicken broth, tomatosauce,vinegar,andsugar.

2.Addbeefandstirtobreakupmeat.Bringtoboil,reduceheattomedium-low,andsimmeruntilchili isdeepbrownandslightly thickened,15 to20minutes.Seasonwithsalttotasteandserve.(Chilicanberefrigeratedforupto3daysorfrozenforupto2months.)

FIVEWAYSTOCINCINNATI

Thoseintheknowcanordertheirchiliwithoutasecondthought,butfortheuninitiated,here’saquickguidetothefivewaysofCincinnatichili.Thechili isalmostneverservedonitsown(one-way).Justdon’tforgettheoystercrackers!

TWO-WAYCHILIServedoverspaghetti.

THREE-WAYCHILIServedoverspaghettiandtoppedwithcheese.

FOUR-WAYCHILIServedoverspaghettiandtoppedwithonionsandcheese.

FIVE-WAYCHILIServedoverspaghettiandtoppedwithonions,redbeans,andcheese.

COLORADOGREENCHILI

3poundsbonelessporkbuttroast,trimmedandcutinto1-inchpieces

Salt

2pounds(10to12)Anaheimchiles,stemmed,halvedlengthwise,andseeded

3jalapeñochiles



ColoradoGreenChiliWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSThispopularsouthwesterndishboastsrich

bitesofporkinasaucedominatedbygreenchiles.Forourversion,weusedacombinationofAnaheimand jalapeñopeppers.Toachieve thecohesive flavorandmildvegetaltastethatweliked,weusedcanned,dicedtomatoesandmorethan 2 pounds of chiles, along with 3 pounds of boneless pork butt—ourpreferredcutforitsrichmeatiness.Toreducethehands-ontime,westartedtheporkwithwaterinacoveredpantorenderthefat,thenlettheevenheatoftheovencookthechili.Addingthejalapeñosjustbeforeservinggaveafreshhitofheat.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES6

Thechilescanberoastedandrefrigeratedupto24hoursinadvance.

2onions,choppedfine




4 cupschickenbroth

Cayennepepper

Limewedges

1.Combinepork,½cupwater,and½teaspoonsaltinDutchovenovermediumheat. Cover and cook for 20minutes, stirring occasionally. Uncover, increaseheat to medium-high, and continue to cook, stirring frequently, until liquidevaporatesandporkbrowns in itsown fat,15 to20minutes.Transferpork tobowlandsetaside.

2.Meanwhile, adjust 1oven rack to lowest position and second rack6 inchesfrom broiler element. Heat broiler. Line rimmed baking sheet with aluminumfoil and spraywith vegetable oil spray. ArrangeAnaheims, skin side up, andjalapeñosinsinglelayeronpreparedsheet.Placesheetonupperrackandbroiluntilchilesaremostlyblackenedandsoft,15to20minutes,rotatingsheetandflippingonlyjalapeñoshalfwaythroughbroiling.PlaceAnaheimsinlargebowland coverwith plasticwrap; let cool for 5minutes. Set aside jalapeños.Heatovento325degrees.

3.RemoveskinsfromAnaheims.ChophalfofAnaheimsinto½-inchpiecesandtransfer to bowl. Process remainingAnaheims in food processor until smooth,about10seconds;transfertobowlwithchoppedAnaheims.Pulsetomatoesandtheirjuiceinnow-emptyfoodprocessoruntilcoarselyground,about4pulses.

4.Heatoilinnow-emptyDutchovenovermediumheatuntilshimmering.Addonionsandcookuntillightlybrowned,5to7minutes.Stiringarlicandcuminandcookuntil fragrant,about30seconds.Stir in flourandcook for1minute.Stir in broth, Anaheims, tomatoes, and porkwith any accumulated juices andbringtosimmer,scrapingupanybrownedbits.Coverpot,transfertolowerovenrack,andcookuntilporkistender,1to1¼hours.

5. Without peeling, stem and seed jalapeños and reserve seeds. Finely chopjalapeños and stir into chili. Season chili with salt, cayenne, and reservedjalapeñoseedstotaste.Servewithlimewedges.

EASIERROASTEDCHILES

Roasting chileswhole and then seeding them—the usual procedure—makes amess: thewetseedssticktoeverything.WehalveandseedtherawAnaheims.It’sneaterandletsusskiptheusualflippingstep.Weleavethejalapenoswhole;theysoftenbutdon’tdeeplyroast.

READYFORROASTINGArrangethechilesheadtofootforthebestfit.

NATCHITOCHESMEATPIES

FILLING


¾ pound85percentleangroundbeef¾

poundgroundpork

Saltandpepper

1onion,choppedfine

greenbellpepper,stemmed,seeded,andminced

NatchitochesMeatPiesWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSSimilartoLatinAmericanempanadas,these

deep-fried hand pies from Louisiana are filled with savory ground meat andspices.Forthefilling,weusedequalpartsgroundbeefandporkalongwiththeclassicCreolecombinationofonions,greenbellpeppers,andapinchofcayenneforheat.Chickenbrothandflourmadethefillingcohesive.Usingchickenbrothratherthanmilkinthedoughgavethecrustasubtlesavoryflavor.Afterafewminutesinhotoil,theyemergedwithacrisp,flakycrustandpiping-hotfilling.

MAKES16PIES

You canmake the dough and the filling up to 24 hours ahead and refrigeratethemseparately.Youcanalsoshapeandfillthepies,refrigeratingthemforupto24hoursbeforefrying.UseaDutchoventhatholds6quartsormore.

1

6scallions,whitepartsminced,greenpartsslicedthin


¼



1 cupchickenbroth

DOUGH

4cups(20ounces)all-purposeflour

2 teaspoonssalt

1 teaspoonbakingpowder

tablespoonsvegetableshortening,cutinto½-inchpieces

8

1 cupchickenbroth

2largeeggs,lightlybeaten

1 quartvegetableoilforfrying

1.FORTHEFILLING:Heat2teaspoonsoilin12-inchskilletovermedium-highheat until just smoking.Addbeef, pork, 1 teaspoon salt, and½ teaspoonpepperandcook,breakinguppieceswith spoon,untilno longerpink,8 to10minutes.Transfermeattobowl.

2.Addremaining1tablespoonoiltonow-emptyskilletandheatovermedium-highheatuntilshimmering.Addonion,bellpepper,scallionwhites,½teaspoonsalt,and½teaspoonpepperandcookuntilvegetablesarejuststartingtobrown,3 to 5 minutes. Stir in garlic and cayenne and cook until fragrant, about 30seconds.

3.Returnmeatandanyaccumulated juices to skilletwithvegetables.Sprinkleflour over meat and cook, stirring constantly, until evenly coated, about 1minute. Add broth, bring to boil, and cook until slightly thickened, about 3minutes. Transfer filling to bowl and stir in scallion greens. Refrigerate untilcompletelycool,about1hour.(Fillingcanberefrigeratedforupto24hours.)4.FORTHEDOUGH:Processflour,salt,andbakingpowderinfoodprocessoruntil combined, about 3 seconds. Add shortening and pulse until mixtureresembles coarse cornmeal, 6 to 8 pulses.Add broth and eggs and pulse untildough just comes together, about 5 pulses. Transfer dough to lightly flouredcounter and knead until dough forms smooth ball, about 20 seconds. Dividedoughinto16equalpieces.(Doughcanbecoveredandrefrigeratedforupto24hours.)

5. Line rimmed baking sheetwith parchment paper.Workingwith 1 piece ofdoughata time, roll into6-inchcircleon lightly flouredcounter.Place¼cupfilling in center of dough round. Brush edges of dough with water and folddoughover filling.Press to seal, trimany raggededges,andcrimpedgeswithtines of fork. Transfer to prepared sheet. (Filled pies can be covered andrefrigeratedforupto24hours.)6.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatoven to200degrees.Setwire rack insecondrimmedbakingsheet.Addoil tolargeDutch oven until itmeasures about¾ inch deep and heat overmedium-highheatto350degrees.Place4piesinoilandfryuntilgoldenbrown,3to5minutes per side, using slotted spatula or spider to flip. Adjust burner, ifnecessary, tomaintain oil temperature between325 and 350degrees.Transferpies topreparedwire rack andplace in oven tokeepwarm.Returnoil to 350

degreesandrepeatwithremainingpies.Serve.

ST.LOUIS–STYLEPIZZA

SAUCEANDCHEESES

1(8-ounce)cantomatosauce


2 tablespoonschoppedfreshbasil

1 tablespoonsugar

2 teaspoonsdriedoregano

St.Louis–StylePizzaWHY THIS RECIPE WORKS With its wafer-thin crust, thick, sweet

tomato sauce, andgooeyProvel cheese,St.Louis–style pizza is unmistakable.Addingcornstarchtothedoughabsorbedmoistureandallowedthecrusttocrispin a conventional oven. We doctored a simple pizza sauce by adding sugar,tomatopaste,driedoregano,andfreshbasil.Thefreshherbwasn’ttypical,butitgavethepizzaaflavorfullift.Smoky,meltyProvelcheesewasdifficulttofindoutsidetheSt.Louisarea,sowecraftedarespectablesubstitutewithAmericancheese,MontereyJack,andliquidsmoke.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

MAKESTWO12-INCHPIZZAS

IfyoucanfindProvelcheese,use10ounces inplaceof theAmericancheese,MontereyJackcheese,andliquidsmoke.

8 ounceswhiteAmericancheese,shredded(2cups)

2ouncesMontereyJackcheese,shredded(½cup)

3 dropsliquidsmoke

DOUGH


2 tablespoonscornstarch

2 teaspoonssugar


1 teaspoonsalt

½

cupplus2tablespoonswater

2 tablespoonsoliveoil

1.FORTHESAUCEANDCHEESES:Whisktogethertomatosauce,tomatopaste,basil,sugar,andoreganoinsmallbowl;setaside.Tosscheeseswithliquidsmokeinmediumbowl;setaside.

2.FORTHEDOUGH:Combineflour,cornstarch,sugar,bakingpowder,andsalt in large bowl. Combinewater and olive oil in liquidmeasuring cup. Stirwatermixtureintoflourmixtureuntildoughstartstocometogether.Turndoughontolightlyflouredsurfaceandknead3or4times,untilcohesive.

3. Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position, place baking stone (or invertedbakingsheet)onrack,andheatovento475degrees.Dividedoughinto2equalpieces.Working with 1 piece of dough at a time, press into small circle andtransfertoparchmentpaperdustedlightlywithflour.Usingrollingpin,rollandstretch dough to form 12-inch circle, rotating parchment as needed. Liftparchmentandpizzaoffworksurfaceontoinvertedbakingsheet.

4.Topeachpieceofdoughwithhalfofsauceandhalfofcheese.Carefullypullparchment paper andpizza off baking sheet onto hot baking stone.Bakeuntilunderside is golden brown and cheese is completelymelted, 9 to 12minutes.Removepizzaandparchmentfromoven.Transferpizzatowirerackandletcoolbriefly.Assembleandbakesecondpizza.Cutinto2-inchsquares.Serve.

TOMAKEAHEAD: The dough can bemade in advance.At end of step 2,tightlywrapballofdoughinplasticwrapandrefrigerateforupto2days.

MEETMEINST.LOUIS

Youcanmaketerrificpizzawithoutyeast.Itmaysoundcrazytomostofus,butfolksinSt.Louishavebeendoing it foryears.With itswafer-thincrust; thick,sweet tomatosauce;gooeyProvelcheese(anotherlocalsecret);andsignaturesquareslices,St.Louis–stylepizzaisunmistakable.Imo’s,apopularlocalchain,iscreditedwithcreatingit,andit’ssaidthatfounderEdImo,aformertile-layer, subconsciously cut the circular pizza into tile-shaped squares (the “square beyondcompare,”asthejinglegoes).ThechainanditspizzahavesincecrossedintoIllinoisandKansas.

CRUNCHYPOTATOWEDGES





¾


CrunchyPotatoWedgesWHY THIS RECIPE WORKS We wanted a recipe for fast-food-style

crunchypotatowedgesthatwecouldprepareathome.Microwavingthepotatoesin a tightly covered bowl helped them obtain perfectly cooked interiors andnicelycrispedexteriors.For thecoating,addingbakingsoda tobuttermilkandreplacing some of the flourwith cornstarch resulted in crunchy, deep-golden-brownwedges.Finally,seasoningourcrunchypotatowedgeswithaspiceblendastheyprecookedinthemicrowave,thentossingthewedgesintheseasoningswhen they cameout of the oil, producedpotatoes thatwere flavored from theinsideout.

SERVES6

If you don’t have buttermilk, substitute 1 cup milk mixed with 1 tablespoonlemonjuice.Letthemixturesit15minutesbeforeusing.Youwillneedatleasta6-quartDutchovenforthisrecipe.

½ teaspoonpepper

3largerussetpotatoes(about1¾pounds),cutinto¼-inchwedges

¼ cuppeanutorvegetableoil,plus3quartsforfrying1½ cupsall-purposeflour½

cupcornstarch

1 cupbuttermilk

½

teaspoonbakingsoda

1.Combinesalt,onionpowder,garlicpowder,oregano,cayenne,andpepperinsmallbowl.

2. Toss potatowedgeswith 4 teaspoons spicemixture and¼ cup oil in largebowl; cover.Microwave until potatoes are tender but not falling apart, 7 to 9minutes, shaking bowl to redistribute potatoes halfway through cooking.Uncover anddrainpotatoes.Arrangepotatoeson rimmedbaking sheet and letcool until potatoes firm up, about 10minutes. (Potatoes can be held at roomtemperatureforupto2hours.)3.Setwirerackinrimmedbakingsheetandlinesecondbakingsheetwithtriplelayerofpapertowels.Addremaining3quartsoiltolargeDutchovenuntilitmeasuresabout2inchesdeepandheatovermedium-highheatto340degrees.Meanwhile,combineflourandcornstarchinmediumbowlandwhiskbuttermilkandbakingsodatogetherinlargebowl.Workingin2batches, dredge potato wedges in flour mixture, shaking off excess. Dip inbuttermilkmixture, allowing excess todripback intobowl, then coat again inflourmixture.Shakeoffexcessandplaceonwirerack.(Potatoescanbecoatedupto30minutesinadvance.)

4.Whenoilisready,addhalfofcoatedwedgesandfryuntildeepgoldenbrown,4 to 6minutes.Transferwedges to large bowl and tosswith 1 teaspoon spicemixture. Drain wedges on paper towel–lined baking sheet. Return oil to 340degreesandrepeatwithsecondbatchofwedges.Servewithextraspicemixtureonside.

TOMAKEAHEAD: Our Crunchy PotatoWedges freeze very well. Followsteps1through4,fryingeachbatchofwedgesuntiltheyarelightgoldenbrown,2 to 3 minutes. Do not toss with seasoning, and drain and cool potatoescompletelyonbaking sheet linedwithpaper towels.Freezewedgesonbakingsheet until completely frozen, about 2 hours, then transfer potatoes to zipper-lockbagforupto2months.Whenreadytoeat,heat3quartsoilto340degreesand cook in 2 batches until deep golden brown, about 3 minutes. Toss withseasonings,drain,andserve.

CREAMYBBQSAUCEMAKES1¼CUPS,ENOUGHFOR1RECIPECRUNCHYPOTATOWEDGES

Combine¾cupmayonnaise,¼cupbarbecuesauce,3tablespoonscidervinegar,1mincedgarlicclove,¼teaspoonpepper,and⅛teaspoonsaltinsmallbowl.

BUFFALOBLUECHEESESAUCE

MAKES1½CUPS,ENOUGHFOR1RECIPECRUNCHYPOTATOWEDGES

Combine¾ cupmayonnaise,¼ cup blue cheese salad dressing, 3 tablespoonshotsauce,1mincedgarlicclove,¼teaspoonpepper,and⅛teaspooncelerysaltinsmallbowl.

CURRIEDCHUTNEYSAUCE

MAKES1¼CUPS,ENOUGHFOR1RECIPECRUNCHYPOTATOWEDGES

Combine ¾ cup mayonnaise, ¼ cup yogurt, ¼ cup minced fresh cilantro, 3tablespoonsmangochutney,2teaspoonscurrypowder,¼teaspoonpepper,and⅛teaspoonsaltinsmallbowl.

CRISPYPOTATOTOTS

2¼

teaspoonssalt

2½ poundsrussetpotatoes,peeledandcutinto1½-inchpieces1½ tablespoonsall-purposeflour½

teaspoonpepper


CrispyPotatoTotsWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSLet’sfaceit,frozenpotatototsdon’tliveup

to our childhood memories. And many recipes simply mix coarsely groundpotatowithflourandegg,whichfryupintoraw,densenuggets.Wefoundthatparcooking the chopped potato in the microwave was a step in the rightdirection,butthetotswerestill tooheavy.Reducingtheflourandomittingtheegg helped, but the totswere still not light and fluffy.Tominimize the glueytextureofpotatostarch,wetriedprocessingthepotatoeswithwater.Perfection.Thissteprinsedofftheexcessstarch,andasmallamountofsaltinthemixturekepttheinteriordownywhite.

MAKES4DOZEN

If any large pieces of potato remain after processing, chop them coarsely byhand.Tomakehandlingtheuncookedtotseasier,useawetknifebladeandwethands.Oncethetotsareaddedtothehotoil,theymaysticktogether;resistthetemptation to stir and break themapart until after they have browned and set.Youwillneedatleasta6-quartDutchovenforthisrecipe.

1. Whisk 1 cup water and salt together in bowl until salt dissolves. Pulsepotatoesandsaltwaterinfoodprocessoruntilcoarselyground,10to12pulses,stirringoccasionally.Drainmixtureinfine-meshstrainer,pressingpotatoeswithrubberspatulauntildry(liquidshouldmeasureabout1½cups);discard liquid.Transferpotatoestobowlandmicrowave,uncovered,untildryandsticky,8to10minutes,stirringhalfwaythroughcooking.

2.Stirflourandpepperintopotatoes.Spreadpotatomixtureintothinlayeroverlargesheetofaluminumfoilandletcoolfor10minutes.Pushpotatoestocenterof foil and place foil and potatoes in 8-inch square baking pan. Push foil intocorners and up sides of pan, smoothing it flush to pan. Press potato mixturetightlyandevenlyintopan.Freeze,uncovered,untilfirm,about30minutes.

3.Meanwhile,adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento200degrees.Set wire rack in rimmed baking sheet. Add oil to large Dutch oven until itmeasures about¾ inchdeep andheat over highheat until 375degrees.Usingfoiloverhang,liftpotatoesfrompanandcutinto48pieces(5cutsin1directionand 7 in other). Fry half of potato tots until golden brown and crisp, 5 to 7minutes, stirring only after they are browned and set. Transfer to preparedbaking sheet and place in oven. Return oil to 375 degrees and repeat withremainingpotatotots.Serve.

TOMAKEAHEAD:Letfriedpotatototscool,transfertozipper-lockbag,andfreezeforupto1month.Toserve,adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatoven to400degrees.Placepotato totson rimmedbaking sheet andbakeuntilheatedthrough,12to15minutes.

CRISPYPOTATOTOTSFORACROWDDouble all ingredients for Crispy Potato Tots. Process and drain potato mixture in 2 batches.Microwaveentirepotatomixture for12 to14minutes, stirringhalfway throughcooking.Spreadpotato mixture over large sheet of foil to cool and press into 13 by 9-inch baking pan. Afterfreezing,cutpotatorectangleinhalfcrosswisebeforecuttingintopotatototsperrecipe.Fryin4batches.

BACON-RANCHPOTATOTOTSStir 1 tablespoon cider vinegar into potatoes after microwaving. Add 4 slices finely choppedcookedbacon,1teaspoononionpowder,½teaspoongarlicpowder,and½teaspoondrieddilltopotatoeswithflourinstep2.

PARMESAN-ROSEMARYPOTATOTOTSStir2mincedgarlicclovesintodrainedpotatoesbeforemicrowaving.Add1cupgratedParmesancheeseand2tablespoonsmincedfreshrosemarytopotatoeswithflourinstep2.

SOUTHWESTERNPOTATOTOTSAdd ½ cup shredded smoked gouda cheese, 3 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro, and 2tablespoonsmincedjarredjalapeñostopotatoeswithflourinstep2.

BEER-BATTEREDONIONRINGS

2sweetonions,peeledandslicedinto½-inch-thickrounds

3 cupsbeer

2 teaspoonsmaltvinegar

Saltandpepper


Beer-BatteredOnionRingsWHYTHIS RECIPEWORKSWe wanted sweet, tender onions for our

Beer-BatteredOnionRings.Wefoundthatsweetonionsworkedbest,andaftertestingmanydifferent batters,we settled on a beer, flour, salt, pepper, bakingpowder, and cornstarch batter. The beer gave the coating flavor, and thecarbonationalsoprovidedlifttothebatter.Bakingpowderyieldedacoatingthatwas thick and substantial, yet light, while cornstarch added crunch to thecoating. Before frying our onion rings, we soaked the onions in amixture ofbeer,maltvinegar,andsalttosoftenthemandbuildflavor.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES4TO6

Instep1,donotsoaktheonionroundslongerthantwohoursortheywillturnsoft and become too saturated to crisp properly. Ordinary yellow onions willproduce acceptable rings here. Cider vinegar can be used in place of maltvinegar.Youwillneedatleasta6-quartDutchovenforthisrecipe.

¾ cupall-purposeflour¾

cupcornstarch


1. Place onion rounds, 2 cups beer, vinegar,½ teaspoon salt, and½ teaspoonpepperin1-gallonzipper-lockbag;refrigeratefor30minutesorupto2hours.

2.Linerimmedbakingsheetwithtriplelayerofpapertowels.Addoil tolargeDutchovenuntilitmeasuresabout1½inchesdeepandheatovermedium-highheat to 350 degrees. While oil is heating, combine flour, cornstarch, bakingpowder,½teaspoonsalt,and¼teaspoonpepperinlargebowl.Slowlywhiskin¾cupbeeruntil justcombined(somelumpswill remain).Whiskinremainingbeer as needed, 1 tablespoon at a time, until batter falls fromwhisk in steadystreamandleavesfainttrailacrosssurfaceofbatter.

3.Adjustoven rack tomiddlepositionandheatoven to200degrees.Removeonions from refrigerator and pour off liquid. Pat onion rounds drywith papertowels and separate into rings. Transfer one-third of rings to batter. One at atime,carefullytransferbatteredringstooil.Fryuntilringsaregoldenbrownandcrisp,about5minutes,flippinghalfwaythroughfrying.Drainringsonpreparedbakingsheet,seasonwithsaltandpepper to taste,andtransfer tooven.Returnoil to 350 degrees and repeat 2 more times with remaining onion rings andbatter.Serve.

TROUBLESHOOTINGONIONRINGS

1. Toprevent raw, crunchyonions, soak rings in combinationof beer, vinegar, and salt,whichsoftensandflavorsrawonion.

2. Ifbatter is too thick, ringswillbedoughy; too thinand itwill runoff.Addbeergraduallyuntilbatterfallsfromwhisktoformribbontrail.

3.Toprevent fused rings, frybatteredonion rings insmallbatchesand transfer themoneatatimetohotoilsotheydon’tsticktogether.

CHAPTER 3: STEAKHOUSESPECIALS

GrilledSteakhouseSteakTips

BroiledSteaks

Char-GrilledSteaks

GrilledCowboy-CutRibEyes

GrilledSteakBurgers

BakedStuffedShrimp

FoolproofChickenCordonBleu

Slow-CookerFrenchOnionSoup

GarlicMashedPotatoes

DelmonicoPotatoCasserole

RoastedSalt-And-VinegarPotatoes

Super-StuffedBakedPotatoes

CrispyBakedPotatoFans

OliveOilPotatoGratin

Americahaslongbeenameatandpotatoesnation,butourloveofsteak(andallthings beef) originated in Britain. In England there were men’s dining clubscalled beefsteak clubs, and of course, the Beefeaters, the colorfully costumedguards at theTower ofLondonwhowere paid 24 pounds of beef permonth.

Niceworkifyoucangetit!Britishcolonistsinthe1700sbroughttheirloveofbeeftoAmericawiththem.IntheU.S.,steakhousesstartedtoproliferateinthe1880s, especially inNewYork. Refrigerated railroad carsmade it possible tosafelytransportmeatfromChicagobackeastandtootherpartsofthecountry.Thefirststeakhouseswereafarcryfromthesometimesposhandoftenfamily-friendly steakhouses of today. Think plenty of drinking and cursing and nowomen or children in sight. Thismen’s club atmosphere didn’t last long andeventually steakhouses became the restaurant of choice for generations ofAmericans.Inthischapter,weofferupnotjustrecipesforsteakhousefavoriteslikesteakandpotatoes,butotherpopulardishesthathavemadetheirwayontomenusover theyears, suchasFrenchOnionSoup,ChickenCordonBleu, andBakedStuffedShrimp.

GRILLEDSTEAKHOUSESTEAKTIPS

⅓

cupsoysauce

⅓

cupvegetableoil

3 tablespoonspackeddarkbrownsugar



GrilledSteakhouseSteakTipsWHYTHISRECIPEWORKS The sizzling arrival of cast-iron plates of

marinated steakhouse steak tips is often the most exciting part about them,becauseinreality,thefirstbiterevealschewymeatinanoverlysweetmarinade.Fortendertipswithgreatbeefyflavor,wereliedonsirloinsteaktips.Asforthemarinade,wereplacedtheusualculprits—ketchup,barbecuesauce,andcola—with a mixture of soy sauce, oil, dark brown sugar, and tomato paste forenhanced meaty flavor and maximum char. See the sidebar that follows therecipe.

SERVES4TO6

Sirloin steak tips are often labeled “flapmeat” and are sold as whole steaks,strips,andpieces.Forevenpieces,buyawholesteakofuniformsizeandcutitupyourself.

1 tablespoonpaprika

½

teaspoonpepper

¼


2½ poundssirloinsteaktips,trimmed

1.Whisksoysauce,oil,sugar,garlic,tomatopaste,paprika,pepper,andcayennetogether inbowluntilsugardissolves; transfer tozipper-lockbag.Patbeefdrywithpapertowels.Prickbeefalloverwithforkandcutinto2½-inchpieces.Addmeat to bagwith soy saucemixture and refrigerate for at least 2 or up to 24hours,turningoccasionally.

2A.FORACHARCOALGRILL:Openbottomventcompletely.Lightlargechimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts).When top coals arepartially coveredwith ash, pour evenly over grill. Set cooking grate in place,cover,andopenlidventcompletely.Heatgrilluntilhot,about5minutes.Leaveburnersonhigh.

2B.FORAGASGRILL:Turnallburners tohigh,cover,andheatgrilluntilhot,about15minutes.

3.Cleanandoilcookinggrate.Grillbeef(coveredifusinggas)untilcharredandregisters 130 to 135 degrees (formedium), 8 to 10minutes. Transfermeat toplatter,tentlooselywithaluminumfoil,andletrestfor5to10minutes.Serve.

COMMONINGREDIENTS,UNCOMMONRESULTS

Weengineeredourmarinadetogivethesteaktipsmaximummeatyflavorandsatisfyingtexture.Thesefamiliaringredientsmakeastrongteam,eachwithitsownparttoplay.

BROILEDSTEAKS

4tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,softened


1 teaspoonDijonmustard

Saltandpepper

1(13by9-inch)disposablealuminumroastingpan,3inchesdeep

BroiledSteaksWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSWeusuallyrelyonared-hotskilletor the

grillforourrecipesthatincludeputtingacrustysearonsteaks,butwewonderedif our oven’s broiler could do the job just as well. Starting the steaks at amoderate temperature took the chill off, and letting them rest before puttingthemunderthebroilerproducedevenlycookedmeat.Coveringthebottomofthepan with salt helped absorb the grease from the meat and greatly minimizedsmoking.Toensureagoodsearonoursteaks,weplacedawirerackovera3-inch disposable pan, to bring themeat closer to the heating element. See thesidebarsthatfollowtherecipe.

SERVES4

Tominimizesmoking,besuretotrimasmuchexteriorfatandgristleaspossiblefrom the steaks before cooking. Try to purchase steaks of a similar size andshapeforthisrecipe.Notethatyouwillneed2cupsofsalttolinetheroastingpan;thesaltwillabsorbdrippingsfromthesteakandminimizesmoking.

4strip,rib-eye,ortenderloinsteaks,1to2inchesthick,trimmed

1.Adjustovenrackstoupper-middleandlower-middlepositionsandheatovento 375 degrees.Beat butter, thyme,mustard,¼ teaspoon salt, and¼ teaspoonpepperinbowlandrefrigerate.

2.Spread2cupssaltoverbottomofaluminumpan.Pat steaksdrywithpapertowels, season with salt and pepper, and transfer to wire rack. Set rack overaluminum pan and transfer to lower oven rack. Cook 6 to 10 minutes, thenremovepanfromoven.Flipsteaks,patdrywithpapertowels,andletrestfor10minutes.

3.Heatbroiler.Transferpantoupperovenrackandbroilsteaks,flippingevery2to4minutes,untilmeatregisters120to125degrees(formedium-rare),6to16minutes,dependingonthicknessofsteaks(seechart).Transfersteakstoplatter,top with reserved butter mixture, and tent with aluminum foil. Let rest for 5minutes.Serve.

PERFECTLYBROILEDSTEAKS

The first step toperfectlybroiled steaks is knowingexactlyhow thick your steaksare.Usingaruler,measureeachsteakandthenfollowtheguidelinesbelow.

SteakThickness:1inchPrecook:6minutesBroil:Turnsteaksevery2minutesSteakThickness:1½ inches Precook: 8minutes Broil: Turn steaks every 3minutes Steak Thickness: 2 inchesPrecook:10minutesBroil:Turnsteaksevery4minutes

BROILERPREP

Sinceoven-rackpositioningvariesgreatly frommodel tomodel,wesuggestyouensurecorrectpositioningwithadryrunbeforeturningonyouroven.

Beforepreheatingyourovenandwithyourovenracksadjustedtotheupper-middleandlower-middlepositions,placeawirerackontopofa3-inch-deepdisposablealuminumpanandplaceiton theupper-middle rack.Place the steakson topof the rackandusea ruler tomeasure thedistancebetweenthetopofthesteaksandtheheatingelementofthebroiler.Foroptimalsearing,thereshouldbe½inchto1inchofspace.

Ifthereismorethan1inchofspace,here’showtoclosethegap:Elevatethealuminumpanbyplacingitonaninvertedrimmedbakingsheet;useadeeper-sideddisposablealuminumpan;orstackmultiplealuminumpansinsideoneanother.If there’s lessthan½inchofspace,adjusttheovenrackoruseashallowerpan.

HOWHOTISYOURBROILER?

It’sgoodtoknowifyourbroilerrunsrelativelyhot,average,orcold.Thisinformationallowsyoutoadjustthecookingtimeforthisrecipe(andothers)accordingly.Toseehowyourbroilerstacksup,heat itonhighandplaceasliceofwhitesandwichbreaddirectlyunder theheatingelementontheupper-middlerack.Ifthebreadtoaststogoldenbrownin30secondsorless,yourbroilerrunsveryhot, andyouwill need to reduce thecooking timebyaminuteor two. If thebread toastsperfectlyinoneminute,yourbroilerrunsaboutaverage.Ifthebreadtakestwominutesorlongertotoast,yourbroilerrunscoolandyoumayneedtoincreasethecookingtimebyaminuteortwo.

CHAR-GRILLEDSTEAKS

1 teaspoonsalt


4strip,rib-eye,ortenderloinsteaks,about1½inchesthick,trimmed

Pepper

Char-GrilledSteaksWHYTHISRECIPEWORKS Inorder to achieve a respectable crust on

our restaurant-style grilled steak, the exterior of the meat must be dry. Aftertryingnumerousdrying-outmethods,includingsaltingandaging,weconsideredthefreezer.Thefreezer’sintenselydryenvironmentsufficientlydehydratedthesteaks’ exteriors, and since we were only freezing them for a short time, theinteriorsremainedtenderandjuicy.Werubbedthesteakswithamixtureofsaltandcornstarchbefore freezing.The salt ensured theywerewell seasoned, andcornstarch,achampatabsorbingmoisture,allowedustocutthefreezingtimeinhalf.

SERVES4

Servewithoneofthesaucesthatfollow,ifdesired.

1.Combinesaltandcornstarch.Pat steaksdrywithpaper towelsand rubwithsaltmixture.Arrangeonwirerackset inrimmedbakingsheetandfreezeuntilsteaksarefirmanddrytotouch,atleast30minutesorupto1hour.

2A.FORACHARCOALGRILL:Openbottomventcompletely.Lightlargechimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts).When top coals arepartially coveredwith ash, pour evenly over grill. Set cooking grate in place,cover,andopenlidventcompletely.Heatgrilluntilhot,about5minutes.

2B.FORAGASGRILL:Turnallburners tohigh,cover,andheatgrilluntilhot,about15minutes.Leaveburnersonhigh.

3.Cleanandoilcookinggrate.Seasonsteakswithpepper.Grill(coveredifusinggas)untilmeatregisters120to125degrees(formedium-rare),8to16minutes,flippingsteakshalfwaythroughcooking.Transfer toplate, tentwithaluminumfoil,andletrestfor5minutes.Serve.

½

cupboilingwater

⅓

cupraisins

¼

cupketchup


2 tablespoonsDijonmustard

2 tablespoonsdistilledwhitevinegar

Saltandpepper

CLASSICSTEAKSAUCE

MAKES1¼CUPS,ENOUGHFOR1RECIPEGRILLEDSTEAKS

Raisinsadddepthandsweetnesstothissauce.

Combinewaterandraisinsinbowlandletsit,covered,untilraisinsareplump,about 5 minutes. Puree raisin mixture, ketchup,Worcestershire, mustard, andvinegar inblenderuntil smooth,30 seconds to1minute.Seasonwith salt andpeppertotaste.(Saucecanberefrigeratedfor1week.)

1sliceheartywhitesandwichbread,toasteduntilgoldenandtornintopieces

2tablespoonssliveredalmonds,toasted

1cupjarredroastedredpeppers,drained

1plumtomato,seededandchopped

2 teaspoonsredwinevinegar

1garlicclove,minced

⅛


1tablespoonextra-virginoliveoil

Salt

SPICYREDPEPPERSTEAKSAUCEMAKES1¼CUPS,ENOUGHFOR1RECIPEGRILLEDSTEAKS

ThispepperysauceisasimplifiedversionoftheSpanishclassic,romesco.

Process bread and almonds in food processor until finely ground, about 10seconds.Addredpeppers,tomato,vinegar,garlic,andcayenneandprocessuntilsmooth,about1minute.Seasonwithsalttotaste.(Saucecanberefrigeratedfor1week.)

½


¼

cupmincedredonion

¼

cupredwinevinegar


⅛

teaspoonredpepperflakes

¼

cupextravirginoliveoil

Saltandpepper

GARLIC-PARSLEYSTEAKSAUCEMAKES1¼CUPS,ENOUGHFOR1RECIPEGRILLEDSTEAKS

Alittleofthisaromaticvinaigrettegoesalongway.

Combine parsley, onion, vinegar, garlic, and pepper flakes in bowl. Slowlywhiskinoil.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.(Saucecanberefrigeratedfor1week.)

GRILLEDCOWBOY-CUTRIBEYES

2(1¼-to 1½-pound) double-cut bone-in rib-eye steaks, 1¾ to 2 inches thick,trimmed



2 teaspoonspepper

GrilledCowboy-CutRibEyesWHYTHISRECIPEWORKS Oversized cowboy-cut rib eyes offer big,

beefyflavor,butcookingthehugesteaksallthewaythroughwhileachievingaflavorfulsearedcrustischallenging.Weusedabareminimumofseasonings—salt, pepper, and oil—to highlight the flavor of the steaks. To cook them,weopted for a low and slow approach to start. To keep the fire burning longenough,we layeredunlit coalsunder litones.We let the steakscome to roomtemperaturebeforegrillingtocutdownoncookingtime,andthenslow-roastedthe steakson thecooler sideof thegrill until theywerealmostdone.Aquicksearoverhotcoalsgavethemaflavorfuldarkcrust.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES4TO6

Don’t start grilling until the steaks’ internal temperatures have reached 55degrees.Otherwise,thetimesandtemperaturesinthisrecipewillbeinaccurate.Youwillneedawirerackandarimmedbakingsheetforthisrecipe.

1.Setwire rack inside rimmedbaking sheet.Pat steaksdrywithpaper towelsand sprinkle all overwith salt. Place steaks on prepared rack and let stand atroomtemperatureuntilmeatregisters55degrees,about1hour.Rubsteakswithoilandsprinklewithpepper.

2A. FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL: Open bottom vent halfway. Arrange 4quarts unlit charcoal briquettes in even layer over half of grill. Light largechimney starter one-third filled with charcoal briquettes (2 quarts).When topcoals arepartially coveredwith ash, pour evenlyoverunlit coals.Set cookinggrate in place, cover, and open lid vent halfway.Heat grill until hot, about 5minutes.

2B.FORAGASGRILL:Turnallburners tohigh,cover,andheatgrilluntilhot, about15minutes.Turnprimaryburner tomedium-lowand turnoff otherburner(s).Adjustprimaryburnerasneededtomaintaingrilltemperatureof300degrees.

3.Cleanandoil cookinggrate.Place steaksoncooler sideofgrillwithbonesfacing fire.Cover andcookuntil steaks register75degrees,10 to20minutes.Flipsteaks,keepingbones facingfire.Coverandcontinue tocookuntil steaksregister95degrees,10to20minutes.

4. If using charcoal, slide steaks to hotter part of grill. If using gas, removesteaks from grill, turn primary burner to high, and heat until hot, about 5minutes;placesteaksoverprimaryburner.Coverandcookuntilwellbrownedand steaks register 120 degrees (for medium-rare), about 4 minutes per side.Transfersteakstocleanwireracksetinrimmedbakingsheet,tentlooselywithfoil,andletrestfor15minutes.Transfersteakstocarvingboard,cutmeatfrombone,andsliceinto½-inch-thickslices.Serve.

INPRAISEOFCOWBOYSTEAKS

Rib-eyesteaksaredeeplymarbled, tender,andbeefy—they’re from thesamepartof thesteerthat’s used for prime rib. Bone-in steaks (like these) havemore flavor than boneless, and theboneprotectsagainstovercooking.Ofspecialinterestistheexteriorbandoffatandmeatonaribeyecalledthedeckle;connoisseurssayitisthemostflavorfulpartofthecow.

BIGGERISBETTERCowboy-cutribeyesaredouble-thickbone-insteaks.Theytakelongertocookthansingle-

servingribeyes,sotheyhavemoretimetosoakupsmokygrillflavor.

GRILLEDSTEAKBURGERS

BURGERS




1 teaspoonpepper

½

teaspoonsalt

GrilledSteakBurgersWHY THIS RECIPEWORKS We wanted a burger with the big beefy

flavor and crusty char of a grilled steak. Ground sirloin, the most flavorfulground beef, was a natural choice, but unfortunately it’s also quite lean. Aseasonedbutteraddedrichnesstothesirloin,butsomethingwasmissing.Steaksauce!Inaboutfiveminutes,wesimmeredupourownintenselyflavoredsauce,perfectforservingwiththeburger,smearingonthebun,andevenmixingintothebeefbeforecooking.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES4

Usekaiserrollsorotherheartybunsforthesesubstantialburgers.

2 teaspoonssoysauce

1½ pounds90percentleangroundsirloin

4 hamburgerbuns

STEAKSAUCE


⅔

cupbeefbroth

⅓

cupraisins

2 tablespoonssoysauce


2 tablespoonsbalsamicvinegar


1.FORTHEBURGERS:Meltbutterin8-inchskilletovermedium-lowheat.Add garlic, onion powder, pepper, and salt and cook until fragrant, about 1minute.Pourallbut1tablespoonbuttermixtureintobowlandletcoolforabout5minutes.

2. FOR THE STEAK SAUCE: Meanwhile, add tomato paste to skillet andcookovermediumheatuntilpastebeginstodarken,1to2minutes.Stirinbroth,raisins,soysauce,mustard,vinegar,andWorcestershireandsimmeruntilraisinsplump, about 5 minutes. Process sauce in blender until smooth, about 30seconds;transfertobowl.

3.Add5 tablespoons cooledbuttermixture and soy sauce to groundbeef andgentlykneaduntilwellcombined.Shapeintofour¾-inch-thickpattiesandpressshallowdivotincenterofeach.Brusheachpattyalloverwith1tablespoonsteaksauce. Combine remaining 2 tablespoons cooled butter mixture with 2tablespoonssteaksauce;setaside.


4B.FORAGASGRILL:Turnallburners tohigh,cover,andheatgrilluntilhot,about15minutes.Leaveburnersonhigh.

5.Clean andoil cookinggrate.Grill burgers (covered if usinggas) untilmeatregisters120to125degrees(formedium-rare),3to4minutesperside,or130to135degrees(formedium),4to5minutesperside.Transferburgerstoplate,tentlooselywithaluminumfoil, and let rest for5 to10minutes.Brushcut sideofbunswithbutter–steaksaucemixture.Grillbuns,cutsidedown,untilgolden,2to3minutes.Placeburgersonbuns.Servewithremainingsteaksauce.

BUTTERMAKESITBETTER

Whyareoursteakhouseburgerssogood?Yep,butter.Groundsirloinhasgreatflavor,butit’salittle dry: Butter helps keep the burgers moist. Butter also gives richness and body to ourhomemadesteaksauce.Andweslatherbutteronthebunsbeforetoastingthemonthegrill.

FLAVOREDBUTTERForthemeat,sauce,andbuns.

BAKEDSTUFFEDSHRIMP


½

cupmayonnaise

¼

cupbottledclamjuice

¼


4scallions,choppedfine

BakedStuffedShrimpWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSThere are often twoproblemswithbaked

stuffedshrimp:mushy,blandstuffingandshrimpaschewyasrubberbands.Wewanted a recipe that produced crisp, flavorful stuffing and perfectly cookedshrimp.Forthestuffing,tasterspreferredthesweetflavoroffreshbreadcrumbs,toasted to ensure crispness. Butterflying the shrimp allowed us to press thestuffingintotheshrimp—astheshrimpcontractedintheoven,thestuffingwassealedintoplace.Topreventovercookedshrimp,yetstillachievecrispstuffing,wecookedtheshrimpforalongertimeatalowertemperature.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES4TO6

Inapinch,chickenbrothcanbesubstitutedfortheclamjuice.Asturdyrimmedbaking sheet can be used in place of the broiler pan bottom. Shrimp that arelabeledU12contain12orlessshrimpperpound.



2teaspoonsgratedlemonzestplus1tablespoonjuice

⅛


Salt

1¼ poundscolossalshrimp(U12),peeledanddeveined

1. Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and heat oven to 375 degrees.Pulse bread in food processor to coarse crumbs, about 10 pulses. Transfercrumbs tobroiler panbottomandbakeuntil golden anddry, 8 to 10minutes,stirringhalfway through cooking time.Remove crumbs fromoven and reducetemperatureto275degrees.

2. Combine toasted bread crumbs, mayonnaise, clam juice, parsley, scallions,mustard,garlic,lemonzestandjuice,cayenne,and¼teaspoonsaltinbowl.

3.Patshrimpdrywithpapertowelsandseasonwithsalt.Greaseemptybroilerpan bottom. To butterfly shrimp, use sharp paring knife to cut along (but notthrough)vein line, thenopenupshrimplikeabook.Usingtipofparingknife,cut1-inchopeningthroughcenterofshrimp.Arrangeshrimpcutsidedownonprepared pan.Divide bread-crumbmixture among shrimp, pressing to adhere.Bakeuntilshrimpareopaque,20to25minutes.

4. Remove shrimp from oven and heat broiler. Broil shrimp until crumbs aredeepgoldenbrownandcrispy,1to3minutes.Serve.

CREOLEBAKEDSTUFFEDSHRIMPWITHSAUSAGEThesmoky,meatyflavorofkielbasaisanicefoiltothesweetshrimpinthisvariation.

Omit cayenne and add 1 teaspoon Creole seasoning in step 2. Fold 4 ounces kielbasasausage,choppedfine,intofillingandproceedasdirected.

EASYSTEPSTOBAKEDSTUFFEDSHRIMP

Cuttingaholeclearthroughthecenterofeachbutterfliedshrimpmayseemlikeamistake,butitactuallygives theshrimpawayofholdingon to thestuffing.Theshrimparebutterfliedon theconvexsidebeforebeingflippedoverontothepan.

1.Useparingknifetocutalongbutnotthroughveinline,thenopenupshrimplikeabook.Cut1-inchopeningallthewaythroughcenterofshrimp.

2.Aftershrimphavebeenbutterfliedandopeningshavebeencut, flipshrimpoverontobroilerpansothattheywillcurlaroundstuffing.

3.Dividestuffingamongshrimp,firmlypressingstuffingintoopeningandtoedgesofshrimp.

FOOLPROOFCHICKENCORDONBLEU

25Ritzcrackers(about¾sleeve)


6tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,melted

8thinslicesdeliham(8ounces)

8ouncesSwisscheese,shredded(2cups)

(8-ounce)boneless,skinlesschickenbreasts,trimmed

FoolproofChickenCordonBleuWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSMakingchickencordonbleucanbefussy;

wewantedaneasierway.Wefoundcuttingapocketintothebreasttobemuchmore efficient than the traditionalmethodof pounding and rolling.Toget thesameswirleffectachievedbyrollingthechickenaroundthehamandcheese,wesimply rolled thehamslices intocylindersaroundshreddedcheeseand tuckedthecylindersintoeachchickenbreast.AddingahealthydoseofDijonmustardto the egg wash boosted the flavor of our chicken, as did supplementinghomemadebreadcrumbswithbutteryRitzcrackercrumbs.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES4TO6

To help prevent the filling from leaking, thoroughly chill the stuffed breastsbeforebreading.WelikeBlackForesthamhere.

4

Saltandpepper

3 largeeggs



1. Adjust oven racks to lowest and middle positions and heat oven to 450degrees.Pulsecrackersandbreadinfoodprocessoruntilcoarselyground,about15pulses.Drizzle inbutter;pulsea few times to incorporate.Bakecrumbsonrimmedbakingsheetonmiddlerack,stirringoccasionally,until lightbrown,3to5minutes.Transfertoshallowdish.Donotturnovenoff.

2.Topeachhamslicewith¼cupcheeseandrolltightly;setaside.Patchickendrywithpapertowels.Usingparingknife,cutintothickestpartofeachchickenbreasttocreatedeeppocketwithopeningof3to4inches.Stuffeachbreastwith2ham-and-cheeserollsandpressclosed.Seasonbothsidesofchickenwithsaltandpepper.Transfer chicken to plate, coverwith plasticwrap, and refrigerateforatleast20minutes.

3.Beat eggs andmustard in second shallowdish. Place flour in third shallowdish.Oneatatime,coatstuffedchickenlightlywithflour,dipintoeggmixture,anddredgeincrumbs,pressingtoadhere.(Breadedchickencanberefrigerated,covered, for 1 day.) Transfer chicken to clean rimmed baking sheet. Bake onlowestrackuntilbottomofchickenisgoldenbrown,about10minutes,andthenmovebakingsheettomiddlerackandreduceoventemperatureto400degrees.Bakeuntil goldenbrownandchicken registers160degrees,20 to25minutes.Transfertoplatter,tentwithaluminumfoil,andletrestfor5minutes.Serve.

STUFFING,STREAMLINED

1.Usingparingknife,cutintothickestpartofchickenbreasttocreatedeeppocketwithopeningof3to4inches.

2.Topeachsliceofhamwith¼cupshreddedcheese.Rollintotightcylinder.

3. Stuff each pocketwith 2 ham-and-cheese rolls and seal.Refrigerate chicken for at least 20minutesbeforebreading.

SLOW-COOKERFRENCHONIONSOUP

SOUP

2 poundsbeefbones


4poundsyellowonions,halvedandslicedthroughrootendinto¼-inch-thickslices

Saltandpepper

Slow-CookerFrenchOnionSoupWHYTHISRECIPEWORKS It can be a hassle to stand over a pot of

caramelizedonionswhenacravingforthisFrenchclassicstrikes.Welookedtotheslowcookerforsimplification.Replicatingthemeatyflavorofthesoupwasmoreofachallenge,astheslow,longcookingcanresultinwashed-outflavor.Wefoundthatsoysauce,sherry,andthymeaddedearlyonhelpedboostflavorand the addition of beef bones to store-bought chicken and beef brothsreproducedtherichmeatinessoftheclassic.Applebutterhighlightedtheflavoroftheonionswithoutdrawingattentiontoitselfandalsohelpedmakeforarich,silkybroth.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES6TO8

Afterhalving theonions, slice them through the rootend forhearty slices thatwillholduptolongcooking.Beefbonesarestockedinthefrozenfoodsaisleofmostsupermarkets.

1 tablespoonpackedbrownsugar


¾

cupapplebutter

¾

cupdrysherry


¼

cupsoysauce

2 cupschickenbroth

2 cupsbeefbroth

CHEESECROUTONS

1smallbaguette,cutinto½-inchslices

ouncesGruyèrecheese,shredded(2½cups)

1. FOR THE SOUP: Arrange beef bones on paper towel–lined plate.Microwaveuntilwellbrowned,8to10minutes.Meanwhile,setslowcookertohigh.Addbutter,cover,andcookuntilmelted.Addonions,2teaspoonssalt,1teaspoon pepper, brown sugar, and thyme. Stir apple butter, sherry, flour, andsoysaucetogetherinsmallbowluntilsmooth.Pouroveronionsandtosstocoat.Tuckbonesunderonionsaroundedgeofslowcooker.Coverandcookonhighheat until onions are softened and deep golden brown, 10 to 12 hours (startchecking onions after 8 hours). (Cooked onions can be refrigerated in airtightcontainerfor1day.)

2.Removebonesfromslowcooker.Heatbrothsinmicrowaveuntilbeginningtoboil.Stirintoslowcooker.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.

3.FORTHECROUTONS:Adjustovenracktoupper-middleposition(about6inchesfrombroilerelement)andheatovento400degrees.Arrangebreadslicesinsinglelayeronbakingsheetandbakeuntilbreadisgoldenatedges,about10minutes. Heat broiler. Divide cheese evenly among croutons and broil untilmeltedandbubbly,3to5minutes.

4.Ladlesoupintobowlsandtopeachwith2croutons.Serve.

SLICINGONIONSFORFRENCHONIONSOUP

Mostsouprecipesstartbychoppingormincingonions.ForourSlow-CookerFrenchOnionSoup,wewantedslices thatwouldretain theirshapethrough10to12hoursofgentlesimmering.Wefound thatcuttingonionswith thegrain (rather thanacross it)yieldedslicesdurableenough fortheslowcooker.

1.Usingchef’sknife,trimoffbothendsofonion.

2.Turnonionontocutendtosteadyitandsliceinhalf,throughrootend.

3.Peeleachhalf,placeflatsidedown,andcutonion,lengthwise,intoslices.

GARLICMASHEDPOTATOES

4poundsrussetpotatoes,peeled,quartered,andcutinto½-inchpieces

12tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,cutintopieces


1 teaspoonsugar

1½ cupshalf-and-half½

cupwater

GarlicMashedPotatoesWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSMakingmashed potatoes isn’t typically a

quickendeavor—addroastedgarlictothemixandyou’vereallygotaprojectonyour hands.We wanted a streamlined recipe.We cut the potatoes into smallpieces to promote even, quicker cooking. The small pieces also meant thepotatoes could better soak up garlicky flavor. Tomimic the flavor of roastedgarlic, we sprinkled in a little sugar while sautéing the garlic. Finally, wesimmeredthepotatoesinhalf-and-half,butter,andthesautéedgarlictoavoidthe“washing away” of flavor that can come from boiling in just water. See thesidebarsthatfollowtherecipe.

SERVES8TO10

Cuttingthepotatoesinto½-inchpiecesensuresthatthemaximumsurfaceareaisexposedtosoakupgarlickyflavor.

Saltandpepper

1. Place cut potatoes in colander. Rinse under cold runningwater until waterrunsclear.Drainthoroughly.

2.Melt4tablespoonsbutterinDutchovenovermediumheat.Cookgarlicandsugar,stirringoften,untilstickyandstrawcolored,3 to4minutes.Addrinsedpotatoes, 1¼ cups half-and-half, water, and 1 teaspoon salt to pot and stir tocombine.Bringtoboil,thenreduceheattolowandsimmer,coveredandstirringoccasionally,untilpotatoesare tenderandmostof liquid isabsorbed,25 to30minutes.

3. Off heat, add remaining 8 tablespoons butter to pot and mash with potatomasher until smooth.Using rubber spatula, fold in remaining¼ cup half-and-half until liquid is absorbed and potatoes are creamy. Season with salt andpeppertotaste.Serve.

FOLKREMEDIESFORREMOVINGGARLICODOR

Weknow firsthand thatgarlicodor ishard to remove fromyourhands.Thereareplentyof folkremedies for doing this:washingwithbaking soda, vinegar, lemon juice, salt, or toothpaste, orevenrubbingyourhandsonstainlesssteel.Doanyofthesetrickswork?Tofindout,wehadfivetestersmincegarlic and rub it on their hands, then try eachof themethods listed above (pluswashingwithsoapandwater).

Washingwithallofthesesubstanceslessenedtheodoratleastalittle,withbakingsodaandlemonjuiceoutperformingtheothers,andrubbingone’shandsonstainlesssteelsucceedingjustaswell.Why?Someofthearomaticcompoundsingarlicareweakacidsthatcanbeneutralizedby alkaline baking soda. Because not all aroma compounds are acidic, baking soda can’tneutralizetheodor100percent.Stainlesssteelremovessomeoftheodorwhenironatomsinthestainless steel exchange some of their electrons with sulfur atoms from the volatile aromacompounds,renderingthemnonvolatile(nonstinky).Lemonjuicecontainslemonoilsthatdissolvetheoil-solublearomacompoundsingarlic,plusitsownfragrancemaskstheremainingodor.Thebottomline?Lemonjuice,bakingsoda,andstainlesssteelallhelpalittle,butthereisnomagiccureforremovinggarlicsmellfromyourhands.

SECRETSTOGREATROASTEDGARLICFLAVOR

1.Cookthemincedgarlic(andalittlesugar)inbutteruntilthegarlicisstickyandstraw-colored;thisbloomsthegarlic’ssweetflavorandtempersitsharshness.

2.Fordeeplyintegratedgarlicflavor,tosstherawpotatoeswiththegarlic-buttermixture,addthehalf-and-halfandwaterdirectlytothepot,cover,andgentlycookuntiltender.

DELMONICOPOTATOCASSEROLE


1onion,choppedfine


2½

cupsheavycream

1½

cupschickenbroth

DelmonicoPotatoCasseroleWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSTorevive thisclassicpotatodish,wefirst

focused on how to prep the potatoes. Boiled cubed potatoes won out overshreddedbecausetheyheldtheirtexturebetterinthecasserole.Next,wesautéedonion and garlic, added cream and chicken broth (to cut the richness of thecream), and cooked the cubed potatoes in thismixture. Lemon juice and zestbroughtthecasserolewelcomebrightness.Forthecrustytopping,weturnedtoanunexpectedingredient:frozenshreddedhashbrowns.Wesautéedthethawedhashbrowns inbutter,cream,andchickenbroth toenhance their flavorbeforetoppingthecasserole.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES8TO10

Weprefer thebuttery flavorofYukonGoldpotatoeshere,butall-purposeandredpotatoesalsowork.Donotuserussets—theirhighstarchcontentwillmakethecasserolegluey.Forthetopping,wehadgoodresultswithOre-IdaCountryStyleHashBrowns,availableinthefrozenfoodsaisleofmostsupermarkets.

2½ poundsYukonGoldpotatoes,peeledandcutinto½-inchcubes⅛


Saltandpepper

1teaspoongratedlemonzestplus2teaspoonsjuice

5cups frozen shredded hash brown potatoes, thawed and patted drywith papertowels

1½ ouncesParmesancheese,grated(¾cup)¼

cupfinelychoppedfreshchives

1.Adjustovenracktoupper-middlepositionandheatovento450degrees.Melt1 tablespoon butter in Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Cook onion untilsoftened, about 3 minutes. Stir in garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30seconds.Stir in2cupscream,1cupbroth,YukonGolds,nutmeg,2 teaspoonssalt, and 1 teaspoon pepper. Bring to boil, then reduce heat to medium andsimmeruntilpotatoesaretranslucentatedgesandmixtureisslightlythickened,about10minutes.Offheat,stirinlemonzestandjuice.

2.Transferpotatomixtureto13by9-inchbakingdishandbakeuntilbubblingaround edges and surface is just golden, about 20 minutes. Meanwhile, meltremaining 2 tablespoons butter in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-highheat.Cook shredded potatoes until beginning to brown, about 2minutes.Addremaining½cupcream,remaining½cupbroth,and½teaspoonpeppertoskilletandcook,stirringoccasionally,untilliquidhasevaporated,about3minutes.Offheat,stirin½cupParmesanand2tablespoonschives.

3. Remove baking dish from oven and top with shredded potato mixture.Sprinkle with remaining ¼ cup Parmesan and continue to bake until top isgolden brown, about 20 minutes. Let cool for 15 minutes. Sprinkle withremaining2tablespoonschives.Serve.

TOMAKEAHEAD: Prepare through step 1, let cool completely, transfer tobaking dish, and refrigerate, covered with plastic wrap, for 1 day. To serve,proceedasdirectedinstep2,increasingbakingtimeto25to30minutes.

POTATOESWITHPANACHE

In1837,Delmonico’sopenedinlowerManhattanandarestaurantstarwasborn.Owned by two Swiss men, the restaurant served French-style cuisine andbecame themodel formanyother fashionable restaurantsof the era. Its lavishdiningroomservedsuchluxuriousfareaslobsterNewburg,bakedAlaska,andtheirsignaturepotatosidedish,Delmonicopotatoes.Thepotatoeswereboiled,finelyshredded,andcookedwithmilkandheavycream.Whenanordercamein,aservingofpotatoeswassprinkledwithParmesancheeseand“gratinéed”underthebroiler.The resultwasapotatogratinwithacreamy interior andacrusty,cheesytopping.Butlookupamodernrecipeforthisdishandyou’llmostlikelyfind a casserole made of overboiled chunks of potatoes baked in a creamycheddar sauce and topped with more cheese. We wanted to bring back thesimplicityandeleganceoftheoriginaldish,butmakeitmorepracticaltofeedacrowd.

ROASTEDSALT-AND-VINEGARPOTATOES


2 poundssmallredpotatoes

1¼

cupssalt

3 tablespoonsmaltvinegar

Pepper

RoastedSalt-and-VinegarPotatoesWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSCooking redpotatoes in a super-saturated

salt solution gave them incredibly creamy, well-seasoned interiors. After thepotatoeswereparcooked,wesmashedthemtoexposesomeofthepotatoflesh,brushedthemwithmaltvinegar,androastedthemonawell-oiledbakingsheetuntiltheexposedsurfacewasgoldenandcrispy.Afinalbrushwithmorevinegarwhenthepotatoescameoutoftheovenreinforcedtheaddictivesalty-sourflavorofthesespuds.Seethesidebarsthatfollowtherecipe.

SERVES4

Usesmallredpotatoes,measuring1to2inchesindiameter.Ifyouprefertousekoshersalt,youwillneed1½cupsofMorton’sor2½cupsofDiamondCrystal.Cidervinegarisagoodsubstituteforthemaltvinegar.

1.Adjustovenracktoupper-middlepositionandheatovento500degrees.Setwirerackinsiderimmedbakingsheet.Brushsecondrimmedbakingsheetevenlywithoil.Bring2quartswatertoboilinDutchovenovermedium-highheat.Stirinpotatoesandsaltandcookuntiljusttenderandparingknifeslipseasilyinandoutofpotatoes,20 to30minutes.Drainpotatoesand transfer towire rack; letdryfor10minutes.

2.Transferpotatoestooiledbakingsheet.Flatteneachpotatowithundersideofmeasuringcupuntil½inchthick.Brushpotatoeswithhalfofvinegarandseasonwithpepper.Roastuntilpotatoesarewellbrowned,25to30minutes.Brushwithremainingvinegar.Transferpotatoestoplatter,smashedsideup.Serve.

SCRUBTHEPOTATOES

Because the skins will be in the finished dish, it’s important to scrub the potatoes well beforecooking.

SALTOFTHEEARTH(ANDSEA)

Avarietyofsaltsareavailableinsupermarketstoday:table,iodized,kosher,andseasalt.What’sthedifference?Tableandiodizedsalt(simplytablesaltwith iodineadded)havefinegrainsandcontainanticakingagentsthathelpthemflowfreely.Koshersalt,sonamedbecauseitisusedinthe koshering process, has larger crystals and typically contains no additives. Both table andkoshersaltsareconsidered “refinedsalts”because theyaremined fromrocksaltdepositsandthen purified. Sea salt is harvested by evaporating seawater and therefore has a full, slightlymineralflavor.Thoughweusetablesaltinthevastmajorityofourrecipes,thechoiceisamatterof preference—except when it comes to our Roasted Salt-and-Vinegar Potatoes. While table,kosher,andseasaltsallperformedequallywellinthisrecipe,weadviseagainstusingiodizedsaltasitgivesthepotatoesanoticeablychemicalflavor.

MALTVINEGARSUBSTITUTES

For our salt-and-vinegar potatoes, we raided the English larder for a beloved condiment: maltvinegar.Britonscommonlydousefishandchipswithit,soweknewitwouldbeaperfectmatchforroastedpotatoes.Thevinegar,whichismadefromsproutedbarleygrains,givesthepotatoesapleasantlymalty, tangy taste.But if youdon’t have it, cider orwhitewine vinegars are goodsubstitutes.Avoidbalsamicandricevinegars,which tasters found toosweet,andredwineanddistilledwhitevinegars,whichweretooharsh.

SUPER-STUFFEDBAKEDPOTATOES

7 largerussetpotatoes

3tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,melted,plus3tablespoonsunsaltedbutter

Saltandpepper

1(5.2-ounce)packageBoursincheese,crumbled

½ cuphalf-and-half


¼

Super-StuffedBakedPotatoesWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSOurSuper-StuffedBakedPotatoes feature

fluffy potato, garlic, herbs, and creamy cheese in crispy potato-skin shells.Precookingthepotatoesinthemicrowaveshavedanhouroffthecookingtime.Andwhilemoststuffedbakedpotatorecipescallforcuttingthepotatoinhalf,wepreferredtolopoffjustthetopquarterofthepotato.Preparedthisway,thepotatoshellsheldmorefilling.Butafterhollowingoutthepotatoes,therewasn’tenoughstuffingtofilleachoneandmoundthefillingontop.Tomakethefillinggo further, we cooked an extra potato and used its flesh to top off the otherstuffedbakedpotatoes.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES6

Thisrecipecallsforsevenpotatoesbutmakessixservings;theremainingpotatoisusedforitsflesh.

cupchoppedfreshchives

1.Adjustovenrack tomiddlepositionandheatoven to475degrees.Setwirerack in rimmedbakingsheet.Prickpotatoesalloverwith fork,placeonpapertowel,andmicrowaveuntiltender,20to25minutes,turningpotatoesoverafter10minutes.

2.Sliceandremovetopquarterofeachpotato,letcoolfor5minutes,thenscoopoutflesh,leaving¼-inchlayerofpotatooninside.Discard1potatoshell.Brushremaining shells inside and outwith 3 tablespoonsmelted butter and sprinkleinteriorswith¼ teaspoon salt.Transferpotatoes, scooped sideup, topreparedbakingsheetandbakeuntilskinsbegintocrisp,about15minutes.

3. Meanwhile, mix half of Boursin with half-and-half in bowl until blended.Cook remaining3 tablespoonsbutter andgarlic in saucepanovermedium-lowheatuntil garlic is straw-colored,3 to5minutes.Stir inBoursinmixtureuntilcombined.

4.Setricerorfoodmillovermediumbowlandpressormillpotatoesintobowl.GentlyfoldinwarmBoursinmixture,3tablespoonschives,1teaspoonpepper,and½teaspoonsaltuntilwellincorporated.Removepotatoshellsfromovenandfillwithpotato-cheesemixture.TopwithremainingcrumbledBoursinandbakeuntil tops of potatoes are golden brown, about 15 minutes. Sprinkle withremainingchives.Serve.

BIGGER,BETTERSTUFFEDPOTATOES

During testing forourSuper-StuffedBakedPotatoes,we found thatmost recipescalled for thebakedpotatoestobecutrightinhalfbeforebeingfilled.Buttheseskimpyspudswerefarfromthesuper-stuffedgarlicpotatoeswewerelookingfor.Instead,wefoundthebestmethodwastocutoffonlythetopquarterofthepotato,leavingamuchmoresubstantialspudtostuff.

1.Sliceofftopquarterofmicrowavedpotato.

2.Usespoontoscoopoutinteriorofpotato,beingcarefultoleave¼-inchlayerofpotatoinshell.

CRISPYBAKEDPOTATOFANS

BREAD-CRUMBTOPPING

1sliceheartywhitesandwichbread,tornintoquarters


2ouncesMontereyJackcheese,shredded(½cup)

¼


1 teaspoonpaprika

½

CrispyBakedPotatoFansWHYTHISRECIPEWORKS For this showstopper side dish,we found

thatusingtherightkindofpotatoiskey.Therussetpotatowasthebestchoicebecause of its starchy flesh and fluffy texture. Taking the time to rinse thepotatoes of surface starch after theywere sliced prevented them from stickingtogether,while trimming off the end of each potato gave the remaining slicesroomtofanout.Topreventovercookingourspudsinthepunishingovenheat,weprecooked them in themicrowavebeforebaking.A toppingof freshbreadcrumbs,melted butter, two kinds of cheese, garlic powder, and paprika is thecrowningtouch.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES4

Toensurethatthepotatoesfanoutevenly,lookforuniformlyshapedpotatoes.


Saltandpepper

POTATOFANS

4 russetpotatoes

2tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil

Saltandpepper

1. FOR THE BREAD-CRUMB TOPPING: Adjust oven rack to middleposition and heat oven to 200 degrees. Pulse bread in food processor untilcoarsely ground, about 5 pulses. Bake bread crumbs on rimmed baking sheetuntildry,about20minutes.Letcoolfor5minutes,thencombinecrumbs,butter,Monterey Jack, Parmesan, paprika, garlic powder, ¼ teaspoon salt, and ¼teaspoon pepper in large bowl. (Bread-crumb topping can be refrigerated inzipper-lockbagfor2days.)

2. FORTHEPOTATOFANS:Heat oven to 450 degrees.Cut¼ inch frombottomandendsofpotatoes, then slicepotatoescrosswiseat¼-inch intervals,leaving¼ inchofpotato intact.Gently rinsepotatoesunder runningwater, letdrain, and transfer, sliced sidedown, toplate.Microwaveuntil slightly soft totouch,6to12minutes,flippingpotatoeshalfwaythroughcooking.

3.Linerimmedbakingsheetwithaluminumfoil.Arrangepotatoes,slicedsideup,onpreparedbakingsheet.Brushpotatoesalloverwithoilandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Bakeuntilskiniscrispandpotatoesarebeginningtobrown,25to30minutes.Removepotatoesfromovenandheatbroiler.

4.Carefullytoppotatoeswithstuffingmixture,pressinggentlytoadhere.Broiluntilbreadcrumbsaredeepgoldenbrown,about3minutes.Serve.

BLUECHEESEANDBACONBAKEDPOTATOFANSInstep1,substitute⅓cupcrumbledbluecheeseforMontereyJack.Instep4,sprinkle4slicesbacon,cookeduntilcrispandthencrumbled,overpotatoesjustpriortoserving.

PREPPINGBAKEDPOTATOFANS

These potatoesmay look difficult tomake, butwe found a few simple tricks to ensure perfectpotatofanseverytime.

1.Trim¼-inchslices frombottomandendsofeachpotato toallow them tosit flatand togiveslicesextraroomtofanoutduringbaking.

2.Chopsticksprovideafoolproofguideforslicingpotatopetalswithoutcuttingallthewaythroughpotato.

3.Gentlyflexopenfanswhilerinsingundercoldrunningwater;thisridspotatoesofexcessstarchthatcanimpedefanning.

OLIVEOILPOTATOGRATIN

2ouncesPecorino-Romanocheese,grated(1cup)

½ cupextra-virginoliveoil¼

cuppankobreadcrumbs

Saltandpepper

2onions,halvedandslicedthin


OliveOilPotatoGratinWHYTHISRECIPEWORKS Potato gratin is a notoriously heavy side

dish, ladenwithcreamandgooeycheese.Wewanted toshift the focusof thisclassic sidedish to thepotatoes.WechoseYukonGoldpotatoes for their richflavor andmoderate starch content,which helped themhold their shapewhencooked. Tossing the potatoes with fruity, flavorful extra-virgin olive oilheightened the flavor of the potatoes but didn’t overpower them. For a crisp,cheesytopping,wemixedmoreoliveoilwithpankobreadcrumbsandsprinkledthedishwithsharp,saltyPecorino-Romano.Foraddeddepth,weaddedsautéedonions,freshthyme,andgarlic.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES6TO8

The test kitchen’s favorite supermarket extra-virgin olive oil isColumela.Weprefertouseamandolinetocreatethin,evenslicesofpotato.


1cuplow-sodiumchickenbroth

3poundsYukonGoldpotatoes,peeledandsliced⅛inchthick

1. Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and heat oven to 400 degrees.Grease13by9-inchbakingdish.CombinePecorino,3 tablespoonsoil,panko,and½teaspoonpepperinbowl;setaside.

2.Heat2tablespoonsoilin12-inchskilletovermediumheatuntilshimmering.Add onions, ½ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper and cook, stirringfrequently,untilbrowned,about15minutes.Addgarlicand½teaspoonthymeand cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add ¼ cup broth and cook untilnearlyevaporated,scrapingupanybrownedbits,about2minutes.Removefromheat;setaside.

3. Toss potatoes, remaining 3 tablespoons oil, 1 teaspoon salt, ½ teaspoonpepper, and remaining ½ teaspoon thyme together in bowl. Arrange half ofpotatoesinprepareddish,spreadonionmixtureinevenlayeroverpotatoes,anddistribute remaining potatoes over onions. Pour remaining ¾ cup broth overpotatoes.Coverdishtightlywithaluminumfoilandbakefor1hour.

4.Removefoil,topgratinwithreservedPecorinomixture,andcontinuetobakeuntiltopisgoldenbrownandpotatoesarecompletelytender,15to20minutes.Letcoolfor15minutes.Serve.

SLICINGPOTATOES

Amandolinemakesquickworkofthinlyslicingpotatoes,butifyoudon’townone,cutasliceoffofonesideofeachpotatotocreateaflat,stablesurfaceforthinslicing.

CHAPTER4:OURSUNDAYBEST

Old-FashionedRoastTurkeywithGravy

CornbreadandSausageStuffing

HerbRoastChicken

RoastLemonChicken

AppleCiderChicken

One-PanRoastChickenwithRootVegetables

Skillet-RoastedChickenwithStuffing

ChickenandSlicks

MoravianChickenPie

GuinnessBeefStew

SundayBestGarlicRoastBeef

ClassicRoastBeefandGravy

HerbedRoastBeef

Herb-CrustedBeefTenderloin

HolidayStripRoast

ChuckRoastinFoil

CrownRoastofPork

Slow-CookerPorkPotRoast

Old-FashionedRoastPork

PuertoRicanPorkRoast

Cider-BakedHam

Parmesan-CrustedAsparagus

WhippedPotatoes

DuchessPotatoes

SyracuseSaltPotatoes

MashedPotatoCasserole

CreamyMashedSweetPotatoes

SweetCornSpoonbread

Is sunday dinner a lost tradition?Most peoplemight say yes.You’d certainlythinksofromaNewYorkTimesarticle,“SundayDinner,OldandNew,”whichlamentedthedeathoftheSundaydinner.Buthere’sthekicker:Thearticlewaspublishedin1929.Thepieceopines,“Thepaceofmodernlifeistoblame,andtwo of its major problems are specifically responsible.” The two majorproblems? Uppity servant girls wanting a day off and put-upon housewivesunwillingtopickuptheslack.Ifonlywomendidwhattheyweretold!

Class and gender issues aside,making time for a relaxing familymealwillprobablyalwaysbeachallenge.Still, sittingdown toenjoyahomemademealwith all the fixings is not a lost cause in our book. And preparing a Sundaydinner,especiallyamaincourselikeourSundayBestGarlicRoastBeef,Cider-BakedHam, orOne-PanRoastChickenwithRootVegetablesmight just giveyoualeguponweeknightmeals.Wesaythat’satraditionworthpreserving.

OLD-FASHIONEDROASTTURKEYWITHGRAVY

TURKEY

1(2-yard)packagecheesecloth

4 cupswater

1(12-to 14-pound) turkey, neck, giblets, and tailpiece removed and reserved forgravy

poundsaltpork,cutinto¼-inch-thickslices

Old-FashionedRoastTurkeywithGravyWHY THIS RECIPEWORKS For a roast turkey with moist, flavorful

meat, we tried a number of options until we discovered a technique used forages: barding. Similar to larding, it is a process ofwrapping strips of lard (orotheranimalfat)aroundthemeatsothatitslowlyreleasesflavorandmoisturethroughoutroasting.Afterpiercingtheskinoftheturkeybreastandlegswithafork,wecovered itwith thinslicesofsaltporkbefore layeringoncheesecloththathadbeensoakedinwaterandthenaluminumfoil.This insulated themeatandallowedthesaltporktoslowlymeltintheoven,bastingtheturkeywithrichfat.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES10TO12

Youwill need one 2-yard package of cheesecloth for this recipe.Becausewelayerthebirdwithsaltpork,weprefertouseanaturalturkeyhere;aself-bastingturkey(suchasafrozenButterball)maybecometoosalty.Ifusingaself-bastingturkey,omitthechickenbrothinthegravyandincreasetheamountofwaterto7cups.Makesuretostartthegravyassoonastheturkeygoesintotheoven.

1

GRAVY


1onion,chopped

5 cupswater

2 cupschickenbroth

4 sprigsfreshthyme

1 bayleaf


Saltandpepper

1.FORTHETURKEY:Adjustovenracktolowestpositionandheatovento350 degrees. Fold cheesecloth into 18-inch square, place in large bowl, andcoverwithwater.Tuckwingsbehindturkeyandarrange,breastsideup,onV-racksetinroastingpan.Prickskinofbreastandlegsofturkeyalloverwithfork,coverbreastand legswithsaltpork, topwithsoakedcheesecloth (pouringanyremaining water into roasting pan), and cover cheesecloth completely withheavy-dutyaluminumfoil.

2.Roast turkeyuntilbreast registers140degrees,2½to3hours.Removefoil,cheesecloth, and salt pork and discard. Increase oven temperature to 425degrees.Continuetoroastuntilbreastregisters160degreesandthighsregister175degrees,40minutesto1hourlonger.Transferturkeytocarvingboardandletrest30minutes.

3.FORTHEGRAVY:Meanwhile, heat oil in large saucepan overmedium-highheatuntilshimmering.Cookturkeyneckandgibletsuntilbrowned,about5minutes. Add onion and cook until softened, about 3 minutes. Stir in water,broth, thyme, and bay leaf and bring to boil. Reduce heat to low and simmeruntil reducedbyhalf,about3hours.Strainmixture throughfine-meshstrainerinto 4-cup liquid measuring cup (you should have about 3½ cups), reservinggibletsifdesired.

4.Carefully straincontentsof roastingpan into fat separator.Let liquid settle,thenskim,reserving¼cupfat.Pourdefattedpanjuicesintomeasuringcupwithgibletbrothtoyield4cupsliquid.

5.Heatreservedfatinemptysaucepanovermediumheatuntilshimmering.Stirin flour and cookuntil golden and fragrant, about 4minutes.Slowlywhisk ingiblet broth and bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer untilslightly thickened, about5minutes.Chopgiblets and add togravy, if desired,andseasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Carveturkeyandservewithgravy.

SALTPORK

Coveringthebreastandtopsofthelegsoftheturkeywithsaltporkhelpstoseasonthemeatandinsulate it fromovercooking.Don’t confuse salt porkwith bacon.Althoughboth come from thebellyof thepigandaresalt-cured,baconisheavilysmokedandistypically leanerandmeatier.Saltpork isunsmokedandusedprimarilyasaflavoringagent(traditionally indishes likebakedbeans)andisrarelyactuallyconsumed.Werecommendbuyingblocksofsaltpork(precutslicescandryout)andportioningitasneeded.Lookforsaltporkthathasatleastafewstreaksofmeatthroughout.Saltporkcanberefrigeratedforuptoonemonth.

CORNBREADANDSAUSAGESTUFFING

12cupspreparedcornbreadcutinto¾-inchcubes

1½ pounds andouille sausage, halved lengthwise and sliced into¼-inch-thick half-moons


2smallonions,choppedfine

3celeryribs,choppedfine

CornbreadandSausageStuffingWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSWewantedaturkeystuffingrichenoughto

standonitsownwithoutgravy.Wefoundouranswerincornbreadandsausage.Cornbread gives the stuffing more flavor than plain white bread.We wantedplentyofstuffing,sowechosetocookitinaDutchoven,whichislargeenoughtoaccommodate10 to12portions.Tocompensate for the loss in richnessandpoultry flavor we didn’t just rely on any sausage—we chose spicy andouillesausage.Addingchickenbrothtothestuffingfurtherboostedthemeatyflavorofourstuffingandhelpedkeepitfromdryingout.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES10TO12

Weprefer spicy andouille sausage in this recipe, but chorizoorkielbasaworkwell,too.Forthecornbread,useyourfavoriterecipe,store-boughtcornbread,orBettyCrockerGoldenCornMuffin andBreadMixor JiffyCornMuffinMix,bothofwhichwillworkfineinstuffing.

2 tablespoonsmincedfreshsage


1 teaspoonsalt

1 teaspoonpepper

4 cupschickenbroth

1.Adjustovenrackstoupper-middleandlower-middlepositionsandheatovento 400 degrees. Spread cornbread evenly over 2 rimmed baking sheets. Bakeuntil slightly crisp, 15 to 20minutes; let cool.Carefully removeupper-middlerackfromoven.

2.CooksausageinDutchovenovermedium-highheatuntillightlybrowned,5to7minutes.Transfertopapertowel–linedplateandpourofffatleftbehindinpot.Meltbutterovermedium-highheat,addonionsandcelery,andcookuntilsoftened, about 5minutes. Stir in sage, garlic, salt, and pepper and cookuntilfragrant,about1minute.Addbrothandsausage,scrapingupbrownedbitswithwoodenspoon.Addcornbreadandgentlystiruntilliquidisabsorbed.Coverandsetasidefor10minutes.(Stuffingcanberefrigeratedfor1day;letsitatroomtemperaturefor30minutesbeforebaking.)

3.Removelidandbakeuntiltopofstuffingisgoldenbrownandcrisp,about30minutes.Serve.

CORNBREADANDBACONSTUFFINGSubstitute1poundbacon,chopped,forsausage,3cupsfreshorfrozencornkernelsforcelery,and3thinlyslicedscallionsforsage.

DRYINGCORNBREAD

Although cornbread gives stuffing great flavor, it also adds a lot of moisture, making a soggybakedmess.Ifyouhavethetime,cubethecornbread,spreaditoutonbakingsheets,andletitsitovernightonthecounter.Ifyou’reinahurry(andwhoisn’taroundtheholidays?),popthebakingsheetsholdingthecornbreadintoa400-degreeovenuntilslightlycrisp,15to20minutes.

HERBROASTCHICKEN

1 cupchoppedfreshparsley

2 tablespoonschoppedfreshthyme

1 tablespoonchoppedfreshrosemary


Saltandpepper

HerbRoastChickenWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSDevelopingarecipeforaclassicherbroast

chicken proved surprisingly tricky. Stuffing the chicken with fresh herbsdeliveredzeroflavor,herbbuttermeltedoffthechicken,andinfusedoilfailedtoreallypenetrate themeat.Our solutionwas to slather the chickenwith a thickpasteoffreshherbsandgarlic,processeduntilsmooth,thenletitresttodevelopapronouncedherbal flavor.So that therewasplentyofmeat togoaround,weused two whole chickens instead of one. For a simple pan sauce, while thechicken rested we whisked the drippings with chicken broth, white wine,cornstarch, butter, and additional herb paste. See the sidebar that follows therecipe.

SERVES6TO8

Forevencooking,arrangethechickenssidebysideafewinchesapartontheV-rack,withthelegspointinginoppositedirections.


2(3½-to4-pound)wholechickens,gibletsdiscarded

1 cupplus2tablespoonswater

2 teaspoonscornstarch

1¼

cupschickenbroth

¼

cupdrywhitewine

2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,chilled

1. Process parsley, thyme, rosemary, garlic, 2 teaspoons salt, and 1 teaspoonpepper in food processor until paste forms, about 30 seconds. Reserve 1teaspoon herb paste for sauce. Combine 2 tablespoons herb paste with oil inbowl.Setasideherb-oilpasteandremainingherbpaste.

2. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees. Patchickensdrywithpapertowels.Usingyourfingers,gentlyloosenskincoveringbreastandthighs.Rubremainingherbpasteunderskinofeachchicken,makingsuretocoatbreast,thigh,andlegmeat.Rubherb-oilpasteoveroutsideofeachchicken. Tuck wings behind back and tie legs together with kitchen twine.Transferchickenstoplatter.Coverandrefrigerate1hour.

3.Arrangechickens2inchesapart,breastsidedown,onV-racksetinsidelargeroasting pan. Roast until thigh meat registers 135 to 140 degrees, 35 to 40minutes.Removechickensfromovenand,using2bunchesofpapertowels,flipbreast sideup (meat thatwas facing in shouldnowbe facingout).Pour1cupwaterintoroastingpan.Returnchickenstoovenandroastuntilbreastregisters160 degrees and thighs register 175 degrees, 25 to 30 minutes. Transfer tocarvingboardandletrestfor20minutes.

4.Whiskcornstarchwithremaining2tablespoonswaterinbowluntilnolumpsremain. Pour pan juices and any accumulated chicken juices into liquidmeasuring cup; skim fat. Transfer ½ cup defatted pan juices to mediumsaucepan.Add broth andwine and bring to boil. Reduce heat tomedium-lowand simmer until sauce is slightly thickened and reduced to 1¼ cups, 8 to 10minutes. Whisk in cornstarch mixture and simmer until thickened, 3 to 5minutes.Offheat,whiskinbutterandreservedherbpaste.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Carvechickensandserve,passingsauceattable.

HERBFLAVORTIMESTHREE

Togetdeeplyflavoredroastchicken,wetripleupontheherbpaste.

1.Separateskinfrommeatandrubherbpasteunderskin.

2.Applyherbpastemixedwitholiveoiltoexteriorofeachchicken.

3.Whiskteaspoonofherbpasteintosauceforafreshfinish.

ROASTLEMONCHICKEN

1(3½-to4-pound)wholechicken,gibletsdiscarded

3tablespoonsgratedlemonzestplus⅓cupjuice(3lemons)

1 teaspoonsugar

Saltandpepper

2 cupschickenbroth

RoastLemonChickenWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSThecitrusflavorinroastedlemonchicken

canbeharshor,on theflipside, totallyabsent.To infuse themeatwithbrightflavor,wecombined lemonzest, sugar,andsaltandrubbed it into thechickenundertheskin.Forevenmorelemonflavor,weroastedthechickeninasauceoflemonjuicemixedwithwater,morezest,andchickenbroth.Roastingthebirdatahightemperatureensuredthattheexposedskinbecamecrisp.Beforeserving,wereduced thesauce toconcentrate its flavorand thickened itwithbutterandcornstarchforsheen,body,andrichness.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES3TO4

Avoidusingnonstickoraluminumroastingpansinthisrecipe.Theformercancause the chicken to brown too quickly, while the latter may react with thelemonjuice,producingoff-flavors.

Water



1 tablespoonfinelychoppedfreshparsley

1.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento475degrees.Patchickendrywithpapertowels.Usingkitchenshears,cutalongbothsidesofbackbonetoremove it.Flattenbreastboneand tuckwingsbehindback.Usingyour fingers,gentlyloosenskincoveringbreastandthighs.Combinelemonzest,sugar,and1teaspoon salt in small bowl. Rub 2 tablespoons zest mixture under skin ofchicken. Season chicken with salt and pepper and transfer to roasting pan.(Seasonedchickencanberefrigeratedfor2hours.)

2.Whiskbroth,1cupwater, lemonjuice,andremainingzestmixture in4-cupliquidmeasuringcup,thenpourintoroastingpan.(Liquidshouldjustreachskinof thighs. If itdoesnot,addenoughwater toreachskinof thighs.)Roastuntilskin is golden brown and breast registers 160 degrees and thighs register 175degrees,40to45minutes.Transfertocarvingboardandletrestfor20minutes.

3.Carefullypour liquid frompan, alongwithanyaccumulatedchicken juices,into saucepan (you should have about 1½ cups). Skim fat, then cook overmedium-high heat until reduced to 1 cup, about 5minutes.Whisk cornstarchwith1 tablespoonwater in smallbowluntil no lumps remain, thenwhisk intosaucepan.Simmeruntil sauce is slightly thickened, about 2minutes.Off heat,whiskinbutterandparsleyandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Carvechickenandserve,passingsauceattable.

MORELEMONFLAVORINLESSTIME

Butterflyingthechickenmaybeunfamiliar,butthissurprisinglysimpleprocessmakesiteasiertoflavorthechickenwithlemon—anditspeedsroasting,too.

1.Usekitchenshearstocutoutbackbone.Flipbirdoverandpresstoflattenbreastbone.

2.Carefullyloosenskin,thenrubzestmixtureintobreast,thigh,andlegmeat.

3.Roastflattenedchickeninlemonysaucesothatitsflavorcanpermeatemeat.

APPLECIDERCHICKEN

3poundsbone-in chickenpieces, (split breastshalvedcrosswise, legsseparatedintothighsanddrumsticks),trimmed

Saltandpepper


1onion,choppedfine


AppleCiderChickenWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSWehada tallorderwithourAppleCider

Chicken:Ithadtotastelikeapples,andithadtohavesuper-crispskin.Cookingthechicken ina skillet, skin sidedown, thenmoving it toahotovenkept theskinexceptionallycrisp.Whenitcametoflavor,applecideralonedidn’tdothetrick.Wealsoneededfreshapples,applebrandy,andcidervinegartoflavorthechickenwithapplegoodness.Forthesauce,GrannySmithapplesweretoosour,while other varieties turned to mush when cooked. In the end, we preferredGolden Delicious, Cortland, or Jonagold apples, which held their shape andofferedsweetflavor.Seethesidebarsthatfollowtherecipe.

SERVES3TO4

Plainbrandy,cognac,orCalvados(aFrenchapplebrandy)canbeusedinplaceoftheapplebrandy.

2 teaspoonsmincedfreshthyme

2teaspoonsall-purposeflour

1large Golden Delicious, Cortland, or Jonagold apple (8 ounces), peeled, cored,andcutinto¾-inchpieces

1 cupapplecider

¼

cupapplebrandy


1.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento450degrees.Patchickendry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat oil in 12-inchovenproofskilletovermedium-highheatuntiljustsmoking.Cookchickenskinsidedownuntilwellbrowned,about10minutes.Flipandbrownonsecondside,about5minutes.Transfertoplate.

2. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon fat from skillet. Add onion and cook untilsoftened, about 5 minutes. Stir in garlic, thyme, and flour and cook, stirringfrequently,untilfragrantandflourisabsorbed,about1minute.Addapple,applecider,and3tablespoonsapplebrandyandbringtoboil.

3.Nestlechickenskinsideupintosauceandroastinovenuntilbreastsregister160 degrees and thighs/drumsticks register 175 degrees, about 10 minutes.Transferchickentoplatter.Stirvinegarandremaining1tablespoonbrandyintosauceandseasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Serve,passingsauceattable.

PREVENTINGFLABBYSKIN

Weavoidflabbyskinwithahybridtechniquethatcombinesbraisingandpanroasting.

1.Brownchickenskinsidedowninskilletfor10minutesuntildeepbrown.Brownsecondsidefor5moreminutes.

2. Finish chicken, skin side up anduncovered, in hot oven.Be sure liquid does not submergechickenpieces.

APPLECIDERVERSUSAPPLEJUICE

Tomake cider, apples are simply cored, chopped, mashed, and then pressed to extract theirliquid. Most cider is pasteurized before sale, though unpasteurized cider is also available. Tomakeapplejuice,manufacturersfollowthesamestepsusedtomakecider,buttheyalsofiltertheextracted liquid to remove pulp and sediment. Apple juice is then pasteurized, and potassiumsorbate (a preservative) is often mixed in to prevent fermentation. Finally, apple juice issometimessweetenedwithsugarorcornsyrup.

Wetriedusingunsweetenedapplejuiceinrecipesforporkchopsandglazedhamthatcallforcider. Tasters were turned off by excessive sweetness in the dishes made with apple juice,unanimouslypreferring thosemadewith cider.Thismadesense:The filtrationprocessused inmakingjuiceremovessomeof thecomplex, tart,andbitter flavorsthatarestillpresent incider.(When we tested the pH level of both liquids, the cider had a lower pH than the apple juice,confirmingitshigherlevelofacidity.)Thebottomline:Whenitcomestocooking,don’tswapapplejuiceforcider.

ONE-PANROASTCHICKENWITHROOTVEGETABLES

12ouncesBrusselssprouts,trimmedandhalved

12ouncesredpotatoes,cutinto1-inchpieces

8ouncesshallots,peeledandhalved

4carrots,peeledandcutinto2-inchpieces,thickendshalvedlengthwise

6garliccloves,peeled


One-PanRoastChickenwithRootVegetablesWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSCookingvegetablesandchickentogetherin

the same pan often leads to unevenly cooked chicken and greasy, soggyvegetables.Togetthechickenandvegetablestocookatthesamerate,weusedchicken parts, which contain less overall fat than a whole chicken and don’tsmotherthevegetablesunderneath,whichwouldcausethemtosteam.Toensurethatthedelicatewhitemeatstayedmoistwhilethedarkermeatcookedthrough,we placed the chicken breasts in the center of the pan, with the thighs anddrumsticksaroundtheperimeter.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES4

Wehalvethechickenbreastscrosswiseforevencooking.UseBrusselssproutsnobiggerthangolfballs,aslargeronesareoftentoughandwoody.


2 teaspoonsmincedfreshrosemary

1 teaspoonsugar

Saltandpepper


3½ poundsbone-inchickenpieces (2splitbreastshalvedcrosswise,2drumsticks,and2thighs),trimmed

1.Adjustovenracktoupper-middlepositionandheatovento475degrees.TossBrussels sprouts, potatoes, shallots, carrots, garlic, 2 teaspoons thyme, oil, 1teaspoon rosemary, sugar,¾ teaspoon salt, and¼ teaspoonpepper together inbowl. Combine butter, remaining 2 teaspoons thyme, remaining 1 teaspoonrosemary,¼teaspoonsalt,and⅛teaspoonpepperinsecondbowl;setaside.

2. Pat chicken dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Placevegetablesinsinglelayeronrimmedbakingsheet,arrangingBrusselssproutsincenter.Placechicken,skinsideup,ontopofvegetables,arrangingbreastpiecesincenterandlegandthighpiecesaroundperimeterofsheet.

3.Brushchickenwithherbbutterandroastuntilbreastsregister160degreesandthighs/drumsticks register175degrees,35 to40minutes, rotatingpanhalfwaythroughcooking.Transferchickentoservingplatter,tentlooselywithaluminumfoil,andletrestfor5to10minutes.Tossvegetablesinpanjuicesandtransfertoplatterwithchicken.Serve.

ONE-PANROASTCHICKENWITHFENNELANDPARSNIPSReplaceBrusselssproutsandcarrotswith1fennelbulb,stalksdiscarded,bulbhalved,cored,andslicedinto½-inchwedges,and8ounces(4medium)parsnips,peeledandcutinto2-inchpieces.

PREPARINGFENNEL

1. Cut off stalks and feathery fronds. Trim very thin slice from base and remove any tough orblemishedouterlayer.

2.Cutbulbinhalfthroughbase.Usesmallsharpknifetoremovepyramid-shapedcone.

3.Cuteachhalfinto½-inchwedges.

SKILLET-ROASTEDCHICKENWITHSTUFFING

1(4-pound)wholechicken,gibletsdiscarded


2 tablespoonsmincedfreshsage

2 tablespoonsmincedfreshthyme

Saltandpepper

Skillet-RoastedChickenwithStuffingWHYTHISRECIPEWORKS To simplify Sunday-style stuffed chicken

intoaone-panmeal,wespedthingsupbytakingthestuffingoutofthechickenandmakingtheentiredishinjustoneskillet.Firstwesautéedthearomaticsforthestuffing,thenweplacedthechicken—brushedwithaflavorfulherbbutter—rightontop.Wescatteredthebreadcubesaroundthebirdandmovedtheskilletto the oven to simultaneously roast the chicken and toast the bread. As thechicken cooked, the bread soaked up its flavorful juices. Finally, while thechicken rested, a quick stir and a splash of brothmixed up the aromatics andmoistenedthestuffing.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES4

YoucanfindItalianbreadinthebakerysectionofyourgrocerystore.Takecarewhenstirringthecontentsoftheskilletinsteps4and5,astheskillethandlewillbeveryhot.

2 onions,choppedfine

2celeryribs,minced

7ouncesItalianbread,cutinto½-inchcubes(6cups)

⅓ cuplow-sodiumchickenbroth

1.Adjustovenracktolower-middlepositionandheatovento375degrees.Patchicken dry with paper towels. Melt 4 tablespoons butter in small bowl inmicrowave,about45seconds.Stirin1tablespoonsage,1tablespoonthyme,1teaspoonsalt,and½teaspoonpepper.Brushchickenwithherbbutter.

2.Meltremaining2tablespoonsbutterin12-inchovensafeskilletovermediumheat.Addonions,celery,½teaspoonsalt,and½teaspoonpepperandcookuntilsoftened, about 5minutes.Add remaining 1 tablespoon sage and remaining 1tablespoon thyme and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Off heat, placechicken, breast side up, on top of vegetables. Arrange bread cubes aroundchickeninbottomofskillet.

3.Transferskillettoovenandroastuntilbreastsregister160degreesandthighsregister175degrees,about1hour,rotatingskillethalfwaythroughroasting.

4. Carefully transfer chicken to plate and tent loosely with aluminum foil.Holding skillet handle with potholder (handle will be hot), stir bread andvegetablestocombine,cover,andletstandfor10minutes.

5.Addbrothandanyaccumulatedchickenjuicefromplateandcavitytoskilletand stir to combine. Warm stuffing, uncovered, over low heat until heatedthrough, about 3minutes. Remove from heat, cover, and let sitwhile carvingchicken.Transferchickentocarvingboard,carve,andservewithstuffing.

CHOPPINGONIONSFINELY

1.Halveonionthroughrootend,thenpeelonionandtrimtop.Makeseveralhorizontalcutsfromoneendofoniontootherbutdon’tcutthroughrootend.

2.Makeseveralverticalcuts.Besuretocutuptobutnotthroughrootend.

3.Rotateonionsorootendisinback;sliceonionthinlyacrosspreviouscuts.Asyouslice,onionwillfallapartintochoppedpieces.

CHICKENANDSLICKS

1½ poundsbone-inchickenthighs,trimmed

2(12-ounce)bone-insplitchickenbreasts,halvedcrosswiseandtrimmed

Saltandpepper

6tablespoonsplus2cupsall-purposeflour


1onion,chopped

ChickenandSlicksWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSAdistantcousintochickenanddumplings,

chickenandslicksofferstenderchickeninarich,flavorfulbrothbutswapsthetraditional biscuit-styledumpling for a thick, chewy,noodlelikeversion.For aflavorfulbase,webrownedthechickenbeforesimmeringitinthebroth;bone-inpiecesprovidedthebestflavor.Whileauthenticrecipescallforlardintheslicks,we replaced it with more readily available vegetable oil, plus some of therenderedfatfromourchicken.Cookingtheslicksinanalreadythickenedbrothcaused them to break apart, so we cooked them in the broth before addingtoastedflourtothickenit.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES4TO6

Ifyou’reshortonchickenfatattheendofstep1,supplementitwithvegetableoil.


7½

cupschickenbroth

2 bayleaves

¼

cupchoppedfreshparsley

1.Patchickendrywithpaper towelsandseasonwithsalt andpepper.Toast6tablespoonsflourinDutchovenovermediumheat,stirringconstantly,untiljustbeginningtobrown,about5minutes.Transferflourtomediumbowlandwipeoutpot.Heat1tablespoonoilinnow-emptyDutchovenovermedium-highheatuntil just smoking. Cook chicken until browned all over, about 10 minutes;transfer to plate.When chicken is cool enough to handle, remove and discardskin.Pourfat(youshouldhaveabout2tablespoons)intosmallbowl;reserve.

2.Addonionand1tablespoonoiltonow-emptypotandcookovermediumheatuntilsoftened,about5minutes.Stirinthymeandcookuntilfragrant,about30seconds.Add7 cupsbroth, chicken, andbay leaves andbring toboil.Reduceheat to lowand simmer, covered,until breasts register160degrees and thighsregister175degrees,20to25minutes.Removefromheatandtransferchickento clean plate. When chicken is cool enough to handle, shred into bite-sizepieces,discardingbones.

3. Meanwhile, combine remaining ½ cup chicken broth, reserved fat, andremaining1 tablespoonoil in liquidmeasuring cup.Process remaining2 cupsflour and ½ teaspoon salt in food processor until combined. With processorrunning, slowly pour in broth mixture and process until mixture resemblescoarsemeal. Turn dough onto lightly floured surface and knead until smooth.Divideinhalf.

4.Rolleachdoughhalfinto10-inchsquareabout⅛inchthick.Cuteachsquareinto twenty5by1-inchrectangles.Placehandfulofnoodles insingle layeronparchmentpaper–linedplate,coverwithanothersheetofparchment,andrepeatstacking with remaining noodles and additional parchment, ending withparchment.Freezeuntilfirm,atleast10minutesorupto30minutes.

5.Returnbrothtosimmerandaddnoodles.Cookuntilnoodlesarenearlytender,12to15minutes,stirringoccasionallytoseparate.Remove1cupbrothfrompotandwhisk into reserved toasted flour. Stir broth-flourmixture into pot, beingcareful not to break up noodles, and simmer until slightly thickened, 3 to 5minutes.Addshreddedchickenandparsleyandcookuntilheatedthrough,about1minute.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Serve.

MAKINGSLICKS

1. Roll each dough half into 10-inch square of⅛ inch thickness. Then, using sharp knife, cutdoughintotwenty5by1-inchrectangles.

2.Stackslicksbetweenlayersofparchmentandfreezebrieflybeforesimmering.

MORAVIANCHICKENPIE

CRUST

½ cupsourcream,chilled

1largeegg,lightlybeaten

2½ cups(12½ounces)all-purposeflour1½

teaspoonssalt

12tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,cutinto½-inchpiecesandchilled

PIE

MoravianChickenPie WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Protestant immigrants from the Czech

provinceMoraviasettledinPennsylvaniaandlaterNorthCarolinaandbroughtwith them such homey dishes asMoravian cake, cookies, and chicken pie, asatisfyingdouble-crustedpiefilledwithshreddedchickenandservedwitharichgravy.Searingthechicken(amixofbreastsandthighs)helpedtorenderitsfat,whichweusedinarouxtothickenthegravy.Formoistchicken,wepoacheditin chicken broth and used that broth to give our gravy flavor. As for the piecrust, we found that sour cream helpedmake for a rich, flaky crust that wasremarkablyeasytorollout.

SERVES8

2 (10-to12-ounce)bone-insplitchickenbreasts,halvedcrosswiseandtrimmed

3(5-to7-ounce)bone-inchickenthighs,trimmed

Saltandpepper


3 cupschickenbroth

1 bayleaf


¼ cupall-purposeflour¼ cuphalf-and-half


1.FORTHECRUST:Combinesourcreamandegginbowl.Processflourandsalt in food processor until combined, about 3 seconds. Add butter and pulseuntil only pea-size pieces remain, about 10 pulses. Add half of sour creammixtureandpulseuntilcombined,5pulses.Addremainingsourcreammixtureandpulseuntildoughbeginstoform,about10pulses.

2. Transfer mixture to lightly floured counter and knead briefly until doughcomestogether.Dividedoughinhalfandformeachhalfinto4-inchdisk.Wrapeachdiskinplasticwrapandrefrigerateforatleast1hourorupto2days.

3.Linerimmedbakingsheetwithparchmentpaper.Remove1doughdiskfromrefrigeratorand let sit for10minutes.Workingon lightly flouredcounter, rollinto12-inchroundandtransferto9-inchpieplate,leaving½-inchoverhangallaround.Repeatwith seconddoughdisk and transfer to prepared baking sheet.Coverbothdoughroundswithplasticwrapandrefrigeratefor30minutes.

4.FORTHEPIE:Patchickendrywithpapertowelsandseasonwithsaltandpepper.HeatoilinlargeDutchovenovermedium-highheatuntiljustsmoking.Cookchickenuntilbrowned,about10minutes; transfer toplate.Pourfat (youshould have 2 tablespoons; supplement with butter if necessary) into bowl;reserve.Whenchickeniscoolenoughtohandle,removeanddiscardskin.Addbroth,chicken,andbayleaftonow-emptypotandbringtoboil.Reduceheattolowandsimmer,covered,untilbreasts register160degreesand thighs register175degrees,14to18minutes.Transferchickentobowl.Whenchickeniscoolenough to handle, shred into bite-size pieces, discarding bones. Pour broththroughfine-meshstrainerintosecondbowlandreserve(youshouldhaveabout2¾cups);discardbayleaf.

5.Adjustovenracktolowestpositionandheatovento450degrees.Heatbutterand reserved fat in now-empty pot over medium heat until shimmering. Addflourandcook,whiskingconstantly,untilgolden,1to2minutes.Slowlywhiskin 2 cups reserved broth and half-and-half and bring to boil. Reduce heat tomedium-lowandsimmergravyuntil thickenedandreducedto1¾cups,6 to8minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Combine 1 cup gravy withshreddedchicken;reserveremaininggravyforserving.

6.Transferchickenmixturetodough-linedpieplateandspreadintoevenlayer.

Topwithseconddoughround,leavingatleast½-inchoverhangallaround.Folddoughundersothatedgeoffoldisflushwithrimofpieplate.Fluteedgesusingthumbandforefingerorpresswithtinesofforktoseal.Cutfour1-inchslitsintop. Brush pie with egg and bake until top is light golden brown, 18 to 20minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 375 degrees and continue to bake untilcrust isdeepgoldenbrown,10 to15minutes.Letpiecoolonwire rackforatleast45minutes.

7.Whenreadytoserve,bringremaining¾cupreservedgravyandremaining¾cupreservedbrothtoboilinmediumsaucepan.Simmerovermedium-lowheatuntil slightly thickened, 5 to 7minutes. Seasonwith salt and pepper to taste.Servepiewithgravy.

GUINNESSBEEFSTEW

1(3½-to4-pound)bonelessbeefchuck-eyeroast,pulledapartatseams, trimmed,andcutinto1½-inchpieces

Saltandpepper


2onions,choppedfine



GuinnessBeefStewWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSGuinnessbeefstewoftencapturesonlythe

bitternessandnoneof thedeep,caramelizedflavorsof thebeer.Wefound thetricktorich,maltyflavorwastoaddsomeofthebeerattheendofcookingsothattheheatdidn’tdullthecomplexflavors.Wealsoaddedalittlebrownsugartobalancesomeof thebitterness.We loved the ideaof justdumping themeatintothepotwithoutsearing,buttheflavorwaslacking.Tocompensate,wefirstbrowned theonionsand tomatopaste, thencooked the stewuncovered so thatthemeatcouldbrownintheoven.Seethesidebarsthatfollowtherecipe.

SERVES6TO8

UseGuinnessDraught,notGuinnessExtraStout,whichistoobitter.


3 cupschickenbroth

1¼

cupsGuinnessDraught

1½

tablespoonspackeddarkbrownsugar


1½ poundsYukonGoldpotatoes,unpeeled,cutinto1-inchpieces

1poundcarrots,peeledandcutinto1-inchpieces

2 tablespoonsmincedfreshparsley

1. Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 325 degrees.Seasonbeefwithsaltandpepper.HeatoilinDutchovenovermedium-highheatuntil shimmering. Add onions and ¼ teaspoon salt and cook, stirringoccasionally,untilwellbrowned,8to10minutes.

2.Addtomatopasteandgarlicandcookuntilrust-coloredandfragrant,about2minutes.Stir in flourandcookfor1minute.Whisk inbroth,¾cupGuinness,sugar,andthyme,scrapingupanybrownedbits.Bringtosimmerandcookuntilslightlythickened,about3minutes.Stirinbeefandreturntosimmer.Transfertoovenandcook,uncovered,for90minutes,stirringhalfwaythroughcooking.

3.Stirinpotatoesandcarrotsandcontinuecookinguntilbeefandvegetablesaretender,about1hour,stirringhalfwaythroughcooking.Stirinremaining½cupGuinnessandparsley.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotasteandserve.

COOKITUNCOVERED

Moststewrecipesstartbysearingmeatinbatchesonthestovetop.Foraneasierbeefstew,weskipthatstepbutkeeptheflavorbycookingthestewuncoveredintheoven;theopenpotallowsthemeat on top to take on flavorful browning. In addition, the liquid reduces, concentrating inflavorandtexture,whilethemeatcooks.

PREPARINGACHUCKROAST

1. Pull apart roast at its major seams (marked by lines of fat and silverskin). Use a knife asnecessary.

2.Withasharpchef’sknifeorboningknife,trimoffanythicklayersoffatandsilverskin.Cutmeatintopiecesasdirectedinrecipe.

SUNDAY-BESTGARLICROASTBEEF

BEEF

8largegarliccloves,unpeeled

1(4-pound)topsirloinroast,fattrimmedto¼inch

GARLIC-SALTRUBlargegarliccloves,minced

SundayBestGarlicRoastBeef WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Is there a more affordable roast beef

alternativetopriceyprimerib?Onethatisfastertocookandfullofrich,beefy,tenderflavor?Inour testing,wefoundouranswerwith topsirloin.Skippingastovetopsear,webrownedtheroastintheovenatahightemperatureandthenreducedtheoventemperaturetocooktheroastthroughwithoutlosingtoomuchmoisture. And to give our roast an extra layer of savory flavor, we turned togarlic. A three-pronged attack yielded roast beef with great garlic flavor:Westuddedtheroastbeefwithtoastedgarlic,rubbeditwithgarlicsalt,andcoateditwhileitcookedwithagarlicpaste.

SERVES6TO8

Lookforatopsirloinroastthathasathick,substantialfatcapstillattached.Therendered fatwill help to keep the roastmoist.Whenmaking the jus, taste thereducedbrothbeforeaddinganyoftheaccumulatedmeatjuicesfromtheroast.Themeatjuicesarewellseasonedandmaymakethejustoosalty.Ifyoudon’thaveaheavy-dutynonstickroastingpan,abroilerpanbottomworkswell,too.

3


½

teaspoonsalt

GARLICPASTE

½

cupoliveoil

12largegarliccloves,cutinhalflengthwise

2 sprigsfreshthyme

2 bayleaves

½

teaspoonsalt

Pepper

JUS

1½

cupsbeefbroth

1½

cupschickenbroth

1. FOR THE BEEF: Toast garlic in 8-inch skillet over medium-high heat,tossing frequently, until spotty brown, about 8minutes. Set aside.When coolenoughtohandle,peelandcutinto¼-inchslivers.Usingparingknife,make1-inch-deepslitsalloverroastandinserttoastedgarlicintoslits.

2.FORTHEGARLIC-SALTRUB:Combinegarlic,thyme,andsaltinsmallbowlandruballoverroast.Placeroastonlargeplateandrefrigerate,uncovered,foratleast4hoursorpreferablyovernight.

3.FORTHEGARLICPASTE:Heatoil,garlic,thyme,bayleaves,andsaltinsmall saucepan over medium-high heat until bubbles start to rise to surface.Reduce heat to low and cook until garlic is soft, about 30 minutes. Let coolcompletely,thenstrain,reservingoil.Discardherbsandtransfergarlictosmallbowl. Mash garlic with 1 tablespoon garlic oil until paste forms. Cover andrefrigeratepasteuntilreadytouse.Coverandreservegarlicoil.

4.Adjustovenracktomiddleposition,placenonstickroastingpanonrack,andheatovento450degrees.Usingpapertowels,wipegarlic-saltruboffbeef.Rubbeef with 2 tablespoons reserved garlic oil and season with pepper. Transfermeat,fatsidedown,topreheatedpanandroast,turningasneededuntilbrownedonallsides,10to15minutes.

5.Reduceoventemperatureto300degrees.Removepanfromoven,turnroastfat sideup,and,usingspatula,coat topwithgarlicpaste.Returnmeat toovenandroastuntilitregisters120to125degrees(formedium-rare),50minutesto1hour,10minutes.Transfer tocarvingboard,cover looselywithaluminumfoil,andletrestfor20minutes.

6.FORTHEJUS:Pourofffatfromroastingpanandplacepanoverhighheat.Addbeefbroth and chickenbroth andbring toboil, scrapingupbrownedbitswithwoodenspoon.Simmer,stirringoccasionally,untilreducedto2cups,about5minutes.Addaccumulatedjuicesfromroastandcookfor1minute,thenpourthroughfine-meshstrainer.Sliceroastcrosswiseinto¼-inch-thickslices.Servewithjus.

CLASSICROASTBEEFANDGRAVY

1(4-pound)topsirloinroast,fattrimmedto¼inch

Saltandpepper


8ounceswhitemushrooms,trimmedandchopped

2onions,choppedfine

ClassicRoastBeefandGravyWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSFor tender, juicy roastbeef,wechose top

sirloinroastwithathickfatcap,whichrenderedasthebeefroastedandkeptitmoist. Searing each side before roasting helped to develop a flavorful crust.Though the right roasting temperature produced juicy meat (our roast havingexpelledverylittleliquid),itleftpreciousfewdrippingsintheroastingpanfromwhich tomakegravy.Agoodamountofbeefbroth,plus the rendered fat andfond left behind from searing the meat, provided volume and richness, whilemushrooms, redwine, andWorcestershire sauce amped up the flavor. See thesidebarsthatfollowtherecipe.

SERVES6TO8

Forthebestflavorandtexture,refrigeratetheroastovernightaftersalting.Ifyoudon’thaveaV-rack,cook theroastonawirerackset insidearimmedbakingsheet.

1 carrot,peeledandchopped

1celeryrib,minced




1 cupredwine

4 cupsbeefbroth

1 teaspoonWorcestershiresauce

1.Patroastdrywithpapertowels.Rub2teaspoonssaltevenlyovermeat.Coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateforatleast1hourorupto24hours.

2.Adjustovenracktolower-middlepositionandheatovento275degrees.Patroastdrywithpaper towelsandrubwith1 teaspoonpepper.Heatoil inDutchovenovermedium-highheatuntil just smoking.Brown roast all over, 8 to12minutes,thentransfertoV-racksetinsideroastingpan(donotwipeoutDutchoven).Transfer to oven and cook untilmeat registers 120 to 125 degrees (formedium-rare),1½to2hours.

3.Meanwhile,addmushroomstofat left inDutchovenandcookuntilgolden,about5minutes.Stirinonions,carrot,andceleryandcookuntilbrowned,5to7minutes.Stir in tomatopaste,garlic,andflourandcookuntil fragrant,about2minutes. Stir in wine and broth, scraping up any browned bits with woodenspoon.Bring toboil, then reduceheat tomediumand simmeruntil thickened,about10minutes.Straingravy,thenstirinWorcestershireandseasonwithsaltandpepper;coverandkeepwarm.

4.Transfer roast tocarvingboard, tentwithaluminumfoil, and let rest for20minutes.Sliceroastcrosswiseinto½-inch-thickslices.Servewithgravy.

FLAVORBUILDERS

A combination of sautéed mushrooms, tomato paste, beef broth, and Worcestershire saucemimickedtheroasted,beefyflavoroftraditionalgravymadewithpandrippings.

TOPSIRLOIN—THERIGHTCUT

Throughextensive testingofeverycutofbeef, the testkitchenhassettledon topsirloinasourfavoriteinexpensiveroast.Lookforaroastwithatleasta¼-inchfatcapontop;thefatrendersintheoven,bastingtheroastandhelpingtokeepitmoist.

HERBEDROASTBEEF

⅓

cupmincedfreshparsley

1shallot,minced





HerbedRoastBeefWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSForaroastbeefdressedtoimpresswithout

mucheffort,weturnedtoaswirlofherbsandmustard.Tostart,wecombinedfreshherbswiththemustard,butterfliedtheroast,andspreadtheherbsovertheinteriorofthemeatbeforefoldingitbacktogetherandsecuringitwithtwine.Asimple herbbutter, spreadover the resting roast,melted andmingledwith thenatural juices of themeat, creating a flavorful saucewithout the need to dirtyanotherpan.Seethesidebarsthatfollowtherecipe.

SERVES6TO8

Forevendeeperseasoning,refrigeratetheroastovernightafterfillingitwiththeherbmixtureinstep2.

1 (4-pound)topsirloinroast,fattrimmedto¼inch

1 tablespoonsalt

1 tablespoonpepper

1. Combine parsley, shallot, and thyme in bowl. Transfer 2 tablespoons herbmixturetosecondbowlandstirin1tablespoonoilandmustarduntilcombined.Addbuttertoremainingherbmixtureandmashwithforkuntilcombined.

2.Butterflyroastbyslicinghorizontallythroughmiddleofmeat,leavingabout½inchofmeatintact,andrubroastinsideandoutwithsaltandpepper.Spreadherb-mustard mixture over interior of meat, fold roast back together, and tiesecurelywithkitchentwineat1-inchintervals.Refrigerateforatleast1hourorupto24hours.

3.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento275degrees.Patroastdrywithpaper towels.Heat remaining1 tablespoonoil in12-inch skillet overmedium-highheatuntiljustsmoking.Brownroastallover,8to12minutes,thenarrangeonV-racksetinsideroastingpan.Transfertoovenandroastuntilmeatregisters120to125degrees(formedium-rare),1½to2hours.

4. Transfer roast to carving board, spread with herb-butter mixture, tent withaluminum foil, and let rest for 20 minutes. Remove twine and slice roastcrosswiseinto¼-inch-thickslices.Serve.

HERBSGALORE

Freshparsleyandthymeflavorboththeinteriorandexteriorofourroast.

1.Butterflyroastbyslicinghorizontallythroughmiddleofthemeat.Leaveabout½inchofmeatintact,thenopenitlikeabook.

2.Afterseasoningmeat,spreadherb-mustardmixtureoverinteriorofmeat.

3.Foldmeatbacktoitsoriginalposition,thentiesecurelyat1-inchintervalswithkitchentwine.

4.Forsecondhitofherbflavorafterroastiscooked,spreaditwithherbbutter.

FASTSEAR,SLOWROASTFORBEEF

Topromotebrowningwhenroastingbeef,youwanttheoventobeveryhot.Unfortunately,evenifyou remove the roast when the center is pink, you’ll find a thick, unsightly band of gray,overcookedmeatatitsedge;alowtemperaturedoesabetterjobofcookingthemeatevenly.Sowebrownmostbeefroastsonthestovetoptobuildaflavorfulcrust,thenroastthemgentlyforauniformlyrosy,juicyinterior.

1.Searingtheroastassuresaflavorful,deepbrowncrust.

2.Roastingatalowtemperature(275degrees)keepsthemeatmoistandsucculent.

HERB-CRUSTEDBEEFTENDERLOIN

1(6-pound) whole beef tenderloin, trimmed, tail end tucked, and tied at 1½-inchintervals

Koshersaltandcrackedpeppercorns

2 teaspoonssugar

2slicesheartywhitesandwichbread,tornintopieces

2½ ouncesParmesancheese,grated(1¼cups)½

Herb-CrustedBeefTenderloinWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSThoughbeeftenderloinoffersincomparable

tenderness, its flavor couldoftenuse someembellishment.Togive themeat aflavorboost,weturnedtoa thickherbedcrust.Butherbscanburneasily, losetheirflavorinahotoven,orjustfalloffthemeat.Cookingtheroastintheovenatahightemperatureforpartofthetimegaveusaperfectlycaramelizedexteriorthatmade applying anherbpaste easy.AddinggratedParmesan cheese to thepastegaveitnuttyflavorandhelpedthepasteadheretothemeat.Freshparsleyand thyme provided a flavorful coating and for a crisp texture, we relied onbreadcrumbs.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES12TO16

Makesuretobeginthisrecipetwohoursbeforeyouplantoputtheroastintheoven. The tenderloin can be trimmed, tied, rubbed with the salt mixture, andrefrigeratedupto24hoursinadvance;makesuretobringtheroastbacktoroomtemperaturebeforeputtingitintotheoven.



2teaspoonsplus2tablespoonschoppedfreshthyme


1 recipeHorseradishCreamSauce

1.Setwire rack in rimmedbakingsheet.Pat tenderloindrywithpaper towels.Combine 1 tablespoon salt, 1 tablespoon pepper, and sugar in small bowl andrub all over tenderloin. Transfer to prepared baking sheet and let sit at roomtemperaturefor2hours.

2.Meanwhile, pulse bread in food processor to fine crumbs, about 15 pulses.Transfer bread crumbs to medium bowl and toss with ½ cup Parmesan, 2tablespoons parsley, 2 tablespoons oil, and 2 teaspoons thyme until evenlycombined.Wipeoutfoodprocessorwithpapertowelsandprocessremaining¾cupParmesan,6tablespoonsparsley,¼cupoil,2tablespoonsthyme,andgarlicuntilsmoothpasteforms.Transferherbpastetosmallbowl.

3. Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and heat oven to 400 degrees.Roasttenderloinfor20minutesandremovefromoven.Usingscissors,carefullycut kitchen twine and remove it. Coat tenderloinwith herb paste, then bread-crumbtopping.Roastuntilmeatregisters120to125degrees(formedium-rare)andtoppingisgoldenbrown,20to25minutes.(Iftoppingbrownsbeforemeatreaches preferred internal temperature, lightly cover with aluminum foil forremainder of roasting time and remove while roast rests.) Let roast rest,uncovered, for 30minutes onwire rack. Transfer to carving board and carve.ServewithHorseradishCreamSauce.

½

cupsourcream

½

cupheavycream

¼ cuppreparedhorseradish,drained


1garlicclove,minced

¼

teaspoonsugar

Saltandpepper

HORSERADISHCREAMSAUCE

MAKESABOUT1CUP

Mixallingredientsinbowl;addsaltandpeppertotaste.Coverandletstandatroomtemperaturefor1to1½hourstothicken.(Saucecanberefrigeratedforupto2days.)

PREPARING HERB-CRUSTED BEEFTENDERLOIN

1.Toensureevencooking, fold thin, taperedendunder roast, then tieentire roastwithkitchentwineevery1½inches.Roastfor20minutes.

2.Removeroastfromoven,sniptwinewithscissors,andremovebeforeaddingherbpasteandbread-crumbmixture.Returntooventofinishcooking.

HOLIDAYSTRIPROAST

1(5-to6-pound)bonelesstoploinroast,fattrimmedto¼inch

2 tablespoonspeppercorns

1 tablespooncorianderseeds

1 tablespoonyellowmustardseeds


2 tablespoonskoshersalt

HolidayStripRoastWHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For an occasion-worthy, beefy top-loin

roast,wewantedasearedcrustandaperfectmedium-rarethroughout,butmostrecipeswefoundcouldonlygiveusoneor theother.Gentlyroastingina lowovenuntil themeatwasalmostdoneand thensetting itunder thebroiler forafewminutesachievedbothresultswithoutthehassleofpan-searing.Scoringthefatcapbeforecookinghelpedthefat torenderandthesurfacetocrisp.Weletthemeatsitovernightwithaspiceandherbrub(andplentyofsalt)toensureaperfectlyseasoned,flavorfulroast,andserveditwithabright,freshsalsaverdetocomplementtherichmeat.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES8TO10

ServewithSalsaVerde(recipefollows).

2 tablespoonschoppedfreshrosemary

1 teaspoonredpepperflakes

1. Pat roast dry with paper towels. Using sharp knife, cut ½-inch crosshatchpattern through fat cap,¼ inchdeep.Tiekitchen twine around roast at 2-inchintervals.Grind peppercorns, coriander seeds, andmustard seeds to texture ofcoarse sand in spice grinder. Combine spice mixture, oil, salt, rosemary, andpepperflakesinbowluntil thickpasteforms.Rubpastealloverroastandintocrosshatch.Wraproastwithplasticwrapandrefrigeratefor6to24hours.

2.Setwirerackinsiderimmedbakingsheet.Onehourbeforecooking,unwrapmeatandplaceonpreparedrack,fatsideup.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionand heat oven to 275 degrees. Transfer roast to oven and cook until meatregisters115degrees,about90minutes,rotatingsheethalfwaythroughcooking.Removeroastfromovenandheatbroiler.

3.Returnroasttoovenandbroilonmiddleovenrackuntilfatcapisdeepbrownand interiorof roast registers125degrees, 3 to5minutes.Transfer to carvingboard, tent loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest for 20 minutes. Removetwineandcarveintothinslices.Serve.

2slicesheartywhitesandwichbread,torninto1-inchpieces

1cupextra-virginoliveoil

¼ cuplemonjuice(2lemons)

4 cupsfreshparsleyleaves

¼ cupcapers,rinsed

4anchovyfillets,rinsed


½

teaspoonkoshersalt

SALSAVERDE

MAKESABOUT1½CUPS

Mincethegarlicbeforeprocessingit,oritwon’tbreakdownenough.Thissaucecan be prepared up to two days in advance and refrigerated. Before serving,bringittoroomtemperatureandstirtorecombine.

Process bread, oil, and lemon juice in food processor until smooth, about 10seconds.Addparsley,capers,anchovies,garlic,andsaltandpulseuntilmixtureisfinelychopped,about5pulses,scrapingdownbowlasneeded.

THERIGHTGRIND

Aspartoftherubfortheroast,wegrindpeppercornswithmustardseedsandcorianderseedstothetextureofcoarsesand.Sincetheseingredientsareirregularlysizedandofvaryingdensities,thetexturewon’tbeuniform,whichisOK.Thecorrectgrindlookslikethis.

COARSEANDIRREGULAR

CHUCKROASTINFOIL

RUB



2 teaspoonspackedlightbrownsugar

2 teaspoonssalt

ChuckRoastinFoilWHY THIS RECIPEWORKS Traditionally, this lazy cook’s pot roast

involves rubbing a chuck roast with onion soupmix, wrapping it in foil, andcooking it in the oven until tender.While we liked the ease of this dish, weweren’tfansofitsartificial,saltytaste.Todeveloponionyflavorwithease,westartedwith onion powder and salt, but ditched themonosodium glutamate infavorofsoysauce,whichenhancedtheroast’sbeefyflavor.Brownsugaraddedsweetness and depth, while a surprise ingredient, a little espresso powder,provided toasty complexity. Dividing the roast into two halves allowed us toapplymoreoftheflavorfulspicerubtoitsexterior.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES4TO6

Youwillneedan18-inch-wide rollofheavy-dutyaluminumfoil forwrappingthe roast. We prefer to use small red potatoes, measuring 1 to 2 inches indiameter,inthisrecipe.

1 teaspoonpepper


1 teaspooninstantespressopowder


½

teaspoonceleryseeds

CHUCKROAST

1(4-pound)bonelessbeefchuck-eyeroast,pulledapartatseams,fattrimmedto¼inch,andtiedat1-inchintervals

2onions,peeledandquartered

1poundsmallredpotatoes,quartered

4carrots,peeledandcutinto1½-inchpieces

2 bayleaves

2 tablespoonssoysauce

1.FORTHERUB:Adjustovenracktolower-middlepositionandheatovento300degrees.Combineallingredientsinsmallbowl.

2.FORTHECHUCKROAST:Patroastdrywithpapertowels.Placetwo30by 18-inch sheets of heavy-duty aluminum foil perpendicular to each otherinside large roasting pan. Place onions, potatoes, carrots, and bay leaves incenterof foil anddrizzlewith soy sauce.Set roastson topofvegetables.Rubroasts all over with rub. Fold opposite corners of foil toward each other andcrimp edges tightly to seal. Transfer pan to oven and cook until meat iscompletelytender,about4½hours.

3.Remove roasts fromfoilpouchandplaceoncarvingboard.Tentmeatwithfoil and let rest for 20minutes.Remove onions and bay leaves.Using slottedspoon,placecarrotsandpotatoesonservingplatter.Straincontentsofroastingpan through fine-mesh strainer into fat separator. Let liquid settle, then pourdefattedpanjuicesintoservingbowl.

4.Removekitchentwinefromroasts.Sliceroaststhinagainstgrainandtransferto platter with vegetables. Pour ½ cup pan juices over meat. Serve withremainingpanjuices.

BACKINFASHION

FamilyCirclemagazineonceaskedPegBracken,authorofthemega-bestsellingIHatetoCookBook, to select her greatest-hits list for the hate-to-cook set. Her list included such gems asStayabedStew(“Forthosedayswhenyou’reennegligee,enbed,withamurderstoryandaboxofbonbons”)andtheBasicI-Hate-to-CookMuffin(madebycombiningbeerandmuffinmix).Butoneclassicsuper-easydishofthedaywasnotablyabsent:chuckroastwithinstantonionsoup.“Donetodeath,”Brackenexplained,adding,“Irememberyearsagowheneveryworkingwifeinthelandwassprinklingapackageofdriedonionsoupmixontoachunkofchucksteak...thethingwasbiggerthanaHula-Hoop,anditdied,ofcourse,ofover-exposure.”Butguesswhat?Thehulahoopisback,andinitsnewincarnation,chuckroastinfoilispoisedfromacomeback,too.

CROWNROASTOFPORK

Koshersaltandpepper


2 tablespoonsmincedfreshrosemary


(8-to10-pound)porkcrownroast

CrownRoastofPorkWHY THIS RECIPE WORKS A crown roast—two bone-in pork loin

roaststiedtogetherinaround—canfeedaholidaycrowdandoffersadramaticpresentation,but itsshapepresentsseriouschallenges toevencooking.Simplyroastingityieldedmeatovercookedontheoutsideandundercookedaroundtheinnercircle.Thesolution?Weturnedtheroastupsidedowntoallowmoreairtocirculateandtobetterexposethethickestpartoftheroasttotheheat.Foraside,weoptedforpotatoes,shallots,andapplesroastedinthepanalongsidethemeat.Pureeingtheapplesintoarichpansaucegaveusbothfruityflavorandanice,thickconsistency.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES10TO12

Acrownroastistwobone-inporkloinroaststiedintoacrownshape,withtheribbonesfrenchedandchinebonesremoved.Thiscanbedifficulttodo,soaskyourbutchertomakethisroastforyou.Wewrapextrakitchentwinearoundthewidestpartoftheroasttoprovidemoresupportwhenflipping.Usepotatoesthatmeasure1to2inchesindiameter.

1

2 poundssmallredpotatoes

10ouncesshallots,peeledandhalved

2GoldenDeliciousapples,peeled,cored,andhalved


½

cupapplecider

1 cupchickenbroth

1.Combine3tablespoonssalt,1tablespoonpepper,thyme,rosemary,andgarlicinbowl;reserve2teaspoonsforvegetables.Patporkdrywithpapertowelsandrubwith remaining herb salt.Wrap kitchen twine twice aroundwidest part ofroastandtietightly.Refrigerateroast,covered,for6to24hours.

2. Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 475 degrees.Place V-rack inside large roasting pan. Toss potatoes, shallots, apples, 4tablespoons butter, and reserved herb salt in large bowl and transfer to pan.ArrangeroastbonesidedowninV-rackandbrushwithremaining4tablespoonsbutter.Roastuntilmeatiswellbrownedandregisters110degrees,about1hour.

3.Removeroastfromovenandreduceoventemperatureto300degrees.Using2bunches of paper towels, flip roast bone side up.Add apple cider to pan andreturntooven,rotatingdirectionofpan.Roastuntilmeatregisters140degrees,30to50minutes.Placemeatoncarvingboard,tentlooselywithaluminumfoil,andletrestfor15to20minutes.

4.Transferapplehalvestoblenderandpotatoesandshallotstobowl.Pourpanjuices into fat separator, let liquid settle for5minutes, thenpour intoblender.Add chicken broth to blender with apples and pan juices and process untilsmooth, about 1 minute. Transfer sauce to medium saucepan and bring tosimmerovermediumheat.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Coverandkeepwarm. Remove twine from roast and slice meat between bones. Serve withvegetablesandsauce.

COOKINGCROWNROASTOFPORKEVENLY

1. Using kitchen twine,make 2 loops aroundwidest part of the roast and tie securely to helpcrownholditsshapewhenflipped.

2.PlaceporkbonesidedownonV-rackandadjustbonestosteadyroast.Roastabout1hour,untilmeatregisters110degrees.

3.Usingpapertowelstoprotectyourhands,fliphotroastbonesideupandsetitbackonV-racktofinishcookingingentleoven.

SLOW-COOKERPORKPOTROAST

2(2½-to3-pound)bonelessporkpicnicshoulderroasts,trimmed

Saltandpepper


2onions,chopped


Slow-CookerPorkPotRoastWHYTHISRECIPEWORKS Pork shoulder’s fat content andmarbling

mean it requires lowandslowcooking tobecome tender—making it anaturalfor the slow cooker. For a full-flavored sauce, we browned the pork, thensautéed onions and garlic with tomato paste in the browned bits left behindbeforeaddingthemtotheslowcooker.Alittleinstanttapiocaproducedjusttherighttextureinthebraisingliquid.Whitewineaddedbrightnessandasplashofwhitewinevinegar,stirred inat theendofcooking, refreshed thewineflavor.Heartyrootvegetablesanddicedtomatoes,whichcookedalongwiththeroast,balancedtheflavors.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES8

This roast is sometimes sold in elastic netting that must be removed beforecooking.Ifyoucannotfind2½-to3-poundporkpicnicshoulderroasts,youcansubstitute one 6-pound pork picnic shoulder roast; cut it into two pieces andprepareasdirected.


½

cupwhitewine

1(28-ounce)candicedtomatoes,drained

3 tablespoonsinstanttapioca


1poundcarrots,peeled,halvedlengthwise,andcutinto2-inchpieces

1poundparsnips,peeled,halvedlengthwise,andcutinto2-inchpieces

2 teaspoonswhitewinevinegar

1.Openeachroastandtrimanyexcessfat,thentieeachroastwithkitchentwineat1½-inchintervalsandoncearoundlengthofroasts.Patroastsdrywithpapertowelsandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Heat2 teaspoonsoil in12-inchskilletover medium-high heat until just smoking. Brown roasts all over, about 10minutes.Transfertoslowcooker.

2.Addonionsand2teaspoonsoiltonow-emptyskilletandcookuntilbrowned,about5minutes.Addgarlic and tomatopasteandcookuntil fragrant, about1minute.Stirinwineandsimmer,scrapingupbrownedbitswithwoodenspoon,untilthickened,about2minutes.Stirintomatoes,tapioca,andthyme;transfertoslowcooker.

3.Tosscarrots,parsnips,¼teaspoonsalt,¼teaspoonpepper,andremaining2teaspoonsoilinbowluntilvegetablesarewellcoated.Scattervegetablemixtureoverpork.Coverandcookonlowuntilmeatistender,9to10hours(orcookonhigh4to5hours).

4.Transferroaststocarvingboard, tentwithaluminumfoil,andletrestfor10minutes. Remove twine from roasts and cut meat into ½-inch-thick slices;transfer toservingplatter.Usingslottedspoon, transfercarrotsandparsnips toplatterwithpork.Stirvinegarintosauceandseasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Serve,passingsauceseparately.

TWOROASTSAREBETTERTHANONE

Weliketousetwosmallerroastsfor thisrecipe,becausethemeatcooksmorequicklyandthesmall roasts are easier to manage in the slow cooker—and to find in the supermarket. Mostboneless pork shoulder roasts come bound in string netting, which is difficult to remove aftercooking.Weprefer tocut thenettingoffbeforecooking, trim the roasts,and then tieeachonewithkitchentwine.

1.Removenettingfromporkroasts.Openeachroastandtrimanyexcessfat.

2.Tie roastsseparately.Toensureevencooking, foldsmaller lobesunder, then tieeach roastwithkitchentwineevery1½inchesaroundcircumferenceandoncearoundlength.

OLD-FASHIONEDROASTPORK

6pounds boneless pork butt roast, fat trimmed to ⅛ inch, tied lengthwise andcrosswise


2teaspoonspeppercorns,cracked

1½

teaspoonssalt


Old-FashionedRoastPorkWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSForthisSundaydinner–worthyporkroast,

weskippedleanloinsandoptedforadeeplyflavoredandinexpensiveporkbuttroast, which we flavored with a spice rub of cracked peppercorns, rosemary,sage,fennelseeds,andgarlic.Cookingtheroastinalowovenforsevenhoursrendered its fat and softened its tough connective tissue. For easy slicing, werefrigerated the cooked roast overnight until firm, then reheated it in the ovenwhilewemadeasimplesaucefromapplecider,applejelly,andcidervinegar.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES8

Aheavyroastingpanwith3-inchsides is thebestchoice for this recipe,butashallow broiler pan alsoworkswell. Boneless pork butt roast is often labeledBostonbuttinthesupermarket.

1 tablespoonchoppedfreshsage

1tablespoonfennelseeds,chopped

2largeredonions,cutinto1-inchwedges

1 cupapplecider

¼

cupapplejelly


1.Adjustovenracktolower-middlepositionandheatovento300degrees.Patporkdrywithpaper towels.Combinegarlic,peppercorns, salt, rosemary,sage,andfennelseedsinsmallbowl.Rubroastwithherbmixture.

2.Transfer to roastingpanandcookfor3hours.Scatteronionwedgesaroundroast, tossing onions in pan drippings to coat. (If roast has not produced anyjuices, toss onions with 1 tablespoon vegetable oil before adding to pan.)Continue roastinguntilmeat is extremely tender and skewer inserted incentermeetsnoresistance,3½to4hours.(Checkpanjuiceseveryhourtomakesuretheyhavenotevaporated. Ifnecessary,add2cupswater topanandscrapeupbrownedbits.)

3.Transfer roast to largebakingdish,placeonions inmediumbowl,andpourpandrippingsinto2-cupliquidmeasuringcup,addingenoughwatertomeasure1½cups.Letroast,onions,anddrippingscoolfor30minutes,covereachwithplasticwrap,andrefrigerateovernight.

4.Onehourbeforeserving,adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento300degrees.Cutmeatinto¼-inchslicesandoverlapinlargebakingdish.Skimofffatfrompandrippingsandtransferdrippingsandreservedonionstomediumsaucepan.Addcider,jelly,andvinegarandbringtoboilovermedium-highheat,then reduce to simmer.Spoon½cup sauce over pork slices and cover bakingdishwithaluminumfoil.Placeinovenandheatuntilveryhot,30to40minutes.

5.Justbeforeserving,reducesauceuntildarkandthickened,10to15minutes.Servepork,spooningonionmixtureovermeatorpassingseparately.

SECRETSTOOLD-FASHIONEDFLAVOR

1.Trimanyexcessfatfrompork,leavingbehind⅛-inch-thicklayer.Tietrimmedroasttightlyintouniformshape,lengthwiseandthencrosswise.

2.Rubmixtureofrosemary,sage,fennelseeds,garlic,salt,andpepperoverroast.

3.Roastporkfor3hours,addonionwedges,andcontinuetoroastuntilmeatisextremelytender,3½to4hoursmore.

PUERTORICANPORKROAST

1½ cupschoppedfreshcilantroleavesandstems

1onion,choppedcoarse

¼

cupkoshersalt

¼

cupoliveoil

10garliccloves,peeled

2 tablespoonspepper

PuertoRicanPorkRoastWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSFamousforitscrispyskin,thisPuertoRican

dishoflong-cooked,heavilyseasonedporkroastshouldresultinflavorfulmeatalong with its trademark crispy exterior.We rubbed a picnic shoulder with asaltysofrito(apasteofaromaticsandherbs)thedaybeforeroasting,whichkeptthemeatmoistandpackeda flavorpunch.We then roasted theporkskin-sidedown, covered, which helped transform tough collagen into gelatin. Next, weremoved the foil cover to ensure that our pork didn’t taste steamed, and thenturnedtheroastskinsideuponaV-racktodrytheskintoprepareitforthelaststep—aquickroastatveryhighheat.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES8TO10

Dependingontheirsize,youmayneedtwobunchesofcilantro.Crimpthefoiltightly over the edges of the roasting pan in step 2 to minimize evaporation.MakesuretospraytheV-rackinstep3.



1(7-pound)bone-inporkpicnicshoulder

1tablespoongratedlimezestplus⅓cupjuice(3limes)

1. Pulse 1 cup cilantro, onion, salt, oil, garlic, pepper, oregano, and cumin infoodprocessoruntilfinelyground,about15pulses,scrapingdownsidesofbowlasneeded.Patporkdrywithpapertowelsandrubsofritoallover.Wrapporkinplasticwrapandrefrigerateforatleast12hoursorupto24hours.

2.Adjustovenracktolower-middlepositionandheatovento450degrees.Pour8 cupswater in large roasting pan.Unwrap pork and place skin side down inpan. Cover pan tightlywith aluminum foil and roast for 90minutes. Removefoil,reduceoventemperatureto375degrees,andcontinuetoroastfor2½hours.

3.Removepanfromoven.SprayV-rackwithvegetableoilspray.Gentlyslidemetal spatula under pork to release skin from pan. Using folded dish towels,graspendsofporkandtransfertoV-rack,skinsideup.Wipeskindrywithpapertowels. Place V-rack with pork in roasting pan. If pan looks dry, add 1 cupwater.Return toovenandroastuntilporkregisters195degrees,about1hour.(Addwaterasneededtokeepbottomofpanfromdryingout.)

4.Linerimmedbakingsheetwithfoil.Removepanfromoven.TransferV-rackand pork to prepared sheet and return to oven. Immediately increase oventemperature to 500 degrees. Cook until pork skin is well browned and crispy(when tapped lightly with tongs, skin will sound hollow), 15 to 30 minutes,rotatingsheethalfway throughcooking.Transferpork tocarvingboardand letrestfor30minutes.

5. Meanwhile, pour juices from pan into fat separator. Let liquid settle for 5minutes, thenpouroff1cupdefattedjuicesintolargebowl.(If juicesmeasurelessthan1cup,makeupdifferencewithwater.)Whiskremaining½cupcilantroandlimezestandjuiceintobowl.

6.Removecrispyskinfromporkin1largepiece.Coarselychopskinintobite-sizepiecesandsetaside.Trimanddiscardexcessfatfrompork.Removeporkfromboneandchopcoarse.Transferporktobowlwithcilantro-limesauceandtosstocombine.Servepork,withcrispyskinonside.

CREATINGCRISPYSKIN

ElevatingtheroastonaV-racktofinishcookingcrispsuptheflavorfulskin.

CIDER-BAKEDHAM

1cinnamonstick,brokenintoroughpieces

¼

teaspoonwholecloves

3¼

quartsapplecider

8 cupsicecubes

Cider-BakedHamWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSHamglazedwithsweetapplecidercertainly

soundsgreat,butmostrecipeslackseriousappleflavor,nottomentiontheycallforfrequentbasting.Forarelativelyhands-offhamthatwasinfusedwithlotsofapple flavor, we marinated the ham in apple cider spiked with warm spices.Bakingthehaminanovenbagguardedagainstdried-outmeat.Andtogiveourham a crusty, spicy-sweet exterior,we rolled back the bag once the hamwasheated through, slathered on reduced apple cider, pressed amixture of brownsugarandblackpepperallover,andsliditbackintotheovenuntilcaramelized.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES16TO20

Wepreferabone-in,uncut,curedhamforthisrecipe,becausetheexteriorlayerof fat can be scored and helps create a nice crust.A spiral-sliced ham can beused instead, but there won’t be much exterior fat, so skip the trimming andscoringinstep2.Thisreciperequiresnearlyagallonofciderandalargeovenbag. In step 4, be sure to stir the reduced cidermixture frequently to preventscorching.

1 (7-to10-pound)curedbone-inhalfham,preferablyshankend


1 cuppackeddarkbrownsugar

1 teaspoonpepper

Largeovenbag

1.Toastcinnamonandclovesinlargesaucepanovermediumheatuntilfragrant,about3minutes.Add4cupsciderandbringtoboil.Pourspicedciderintolargestockpotorcleanbucket,add4cupsciderandice,andstiruntilmelted.

2. Meanwhile, remove skin from exterior of ham and trim fat to ¼-inchthickness.Scoreremainingfatat1-inchintervalsincrosshatchpattern.Transferhamtocontainerwithchilledcidermixture(liquidshouldnearlycoverham)andrefrigerateforatleast4hoursorupto12hours.

3.Discard cidermixture and transfer ham to largeovenbag.Add1 cup freshcidertobag,tiesecurely,andcut4slitsintopofbag.Transfertolargeroastingpanandletstandatroomtemperaturefor1½hours.

4.Adjustovenracktolowestpositionandheatovento300degrees.Bakeuntilhamregisters100degrees,1½to2½hours.Meanwhile,bringremaining4cupsciderandmustardtoboilinsaucepan.Reduceheattomedium-lowandsimmer,stirringoften,untilmixtureisverythickandreducedto⅓cup,about1hour.

5.Combinesugarandpepperinbowl.Removehamfromovenandletrestfor5minutes. Increase oven temperature to 400 degrees. Roll back oven bag andbrushhamwithreducedcidermixture.Usingyourfingers,carefullypresssugarmixture onto exterior of ham. Return to oven and bake until dark brown andcaramelized,about20minutes.Transferhamtocarvingboard,tentlooselywithaluminumfoil,andletrestfor15minutes.Carveandserve.

SECRETSTOCIDER-BAKEDHAM

1.Soakinghaminspice-infusedciderlendsconcentratedflavor.

2.Bakinghamwithacupofciderinovenbagkeepsmeatmoistandlendsevenmoreciderflavor.

3.Brushinghamwithstickyciderreductionprovidesbigappleflavorandabaseforcrust.

4.Pressingmixtureofbrownsugarandpepperontohamgivesexteriorspicy-sweet,cracklycrust.

PARMESAN-CRUSTEDASPARAGUS

2pounds(½-inch-thick)asparagus,trimmed

Saltandpepper


¾

cuppankobreadcrumbs

1tablespoonunsaltedbutter,meltedandcooled

Parmesan-CrustedAsparagusWHYTHISRECIPEWORKS Simply roasting asparagus and topping it

with shaved Parmesan gives you limp spears and rubbery cheese. To getperfectlycrisp-tenderasparagus,wefirstsaltedittoriditofexcessmoisture.Fora cheesy coating that would stay put on the slender spears, we whipped acombinationofhoneyandeggwhitestosoftpeaks,dippedtheasparagusinthemixture, then coated them with a mixture of bread crumbs and Parmesan.Finally, to reinforce the Parmesan flavor, we sprinkled the spears with morecheeseattheendofroasting.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES4TO6

Avoid pencil-thin asparagus for this recipe. Work quickly when tossing theasparaguswiththeeggwhites,asthesaltontheasparaguswillrapidlybegintodeflatethewhites.

Pinchcayenne

2 largeeggwhites

1 teaspoonhoney

1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees. Linerimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil and spray with vegetable oil spray.Usingfork,pokeholesupanddownstalksofasparagus.Tossasparaguswith½teaspoonsaltandletstandfor30minutesonapapertowel–linedbakingsheet.

2. Meanwhile, combine 1 cup Parmesan, panko, butter, ¼ teaspoon salt, ⅛teaspoonpepper,andcayenneinbowl.Transferhalfofpankomixturetoshallowdishandreserveremainingmixture.Usingstandmixerfittedwithwhisk,whipegg whites and honey on medium-low speed until foamy, about 1 minute.Increasespeedtomedium-highandwhipuntilsoftpeaksform,2to3minutes.Scrape into 13 by 9-inch baking dish and toss asparagus inmixture.Workingwith 1 spear at a time, dredge half of asparagus in panko and transfer toaluminum foil–lined baking sheet. Refill shallow dish with reserved pankomixtureandrepeatwithremaininghalfofasparagus.

3.Bakeasparagusuntil justbeginning tobrown,6 to8minutes.Sprinklewithremaining ½ cup Parmesan and continue to bake until cheese is melted andpankoisgoldenbrown,6to8minutes.Transfertoplatter.Serve.

MAKINGTHECOATINGSTICK

1.Perforateandsalttheasparagustodrawoutexcessmoisturethatcouldsaturatethecrumbs.

2.Whipeggwhitestohelpcrumbsadhere.Addhoneyforflavorandextrastickingpower.

3.Workwith1spearatatimetokeepthebreadcrumbsfromclumping.

WHIPPEDPOTATOES

4poundsrussetpotatoes,peeledandcutinto1-inchpieces

1½

cupswholemilk


2 teaspoonssalt

½

teaspoonpepper

WhippedPotatoesWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSConventionalwisdomholds that anything

but the gentlest treatment turnsmashed potatoes into wallpaper paste, but wethink our mixer-whipped spuds prove otherwise. For the lightest, fluffiestpotatoes,wefoundhigh-starchrussetsworkedbest.Boilingthepotatoesaddedextrawater,resultinginaflat,notfluffy,finisheddish.Thebesttechniquewastorinseexcessstarchfromtherawpotatoes,steamthem,andthendrytheminthepotonthestovetopoverlowheat.Thisprocessmadethemfluffierandbetterable to absorb the warm butter-and-milk mixture during whipping. See thesidebarsthatfollowtherecipe.

SERVES8TO10

Ifyoursteamerbaskethasshortlegs(under1¾inches),thepotatoeswillsitinwateras theycookandgetwet.Toprevent this,useballsofaluminumfoilassteamer basket stilts. A stand mixer fitted with a whisk yields the smoothestpotatoes,butahand-heldmixermaybeusedaswell.

1.Placecutpotatoesincolander.Rinseundercoldwateruntilwaterrunsclear,about1minute.Drainpotatoes.FillDutchovenwith1inchwaterandbringtoboil.PlacesteamerbasketinDutchovenandfillwithpotatoes.Reduceheattomediumandcook,covered,untilpotatoesaretender,20to25minutes.

2.Heatmilk,butter,salt,andpepperinsmallsaucepanovermedium-lowheat,whiskinguntilsmooth,about3minutes;coverandkeepwarm.

3.PourcontentsofDutchovenintocolanderandreturnpotatoestodrypot.Stirover lowheatuntilpotatoesare thoroughlydried,about1minute.Usingstandmixerfittedwithwhisk,breakpotatoesintosmallpiecesonlowspeed,about30seconds.Addmilkmixtureinsteadystreamuntilincorporated.Increasespeedtohighandwhipuntilpotatoesarelightandfluffyandnolumpsremain,about2minutes.Serve.

CHOOSINGYOURMIXINGMETHOD

Don’t try this recipe inyour foodprocessor—itssharpbladescutopen thestarchgranulesandturn thepotatoes toglue.Thebeatingmotionof themixermakessmooth, fluffypotatoeseverytime.

DON’TDOITAfoodprocessor’sblademakesglueymashedpotatoes.

WHIPSMARTUsethemixerforlight,fluffywhippedpotatoes.

WHIPITGOOD

Inall likelihood,whippedpotatoesowetheirmid20th-century fameto theSunbeamMixmaster.Theappliance,firstmanufacturedin1930andquicklyenshrinedasthemust-havekitchentoolforAmericanhousewives,actuallyhadaMix-FinderDialsettingforwhippedpotatoes—speed4or5,dependingonthemodel.Whippingpotatoes in theMixmaster, themanufacturerclaimed,saved“one-thirdthetimeusuallytakenbyhand.”Butthen,thismachinepromisedtimesavingsonjustabout every kitchen task. The 17 available attachments on early models included not only aslicer/shredderandan icecreammaker,butalsoabutter churn,a stringbeanslicer, and (ourpersonalfavorite)apeasheller.It’snowonderthiskitchentoolbecameperhapsthemostfamousapplianceofthe20thcentury.

DUCHESSPOTATOES

3 poundsrussetpotatoes

1 cupheavycream

6tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,cutinto¼-inchpiecesandsoftened

1largeeggplus1largeyolk,lightlybeaten

1¼

teaspoonssalt

½

DuchessPotatoesWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSDuchesspotatoes takemashedpotatoes to

thenextlevel,enrichingthemwitheggandpipingthemintodecorativerosettesbefore baking. To cook our spuds, we tried boiling, but this made themwaterlogged; baking dried them out. Parcooking them in the microwave andfinishingtherosettesinahotovenprovedbest.Forapotatomixturethatwastherighttextureforpiping,westirredinbutter,eggs,andcreamwhilethepotatoeswere still hot, then added more butter once the potatoes had cooled. Bakingpowderensuredourpicture-perfectDuchessPotatoeshadtheperfectairy,lighttexturetomatch.Seethesidebarsthatfollowtherecipe.

SERVES8

For the smoothest,most uniform texture, use a foodmill or ricer tomash thepotatoes.Choosepotatoesofthesamesizesothattheycookevenly.

teaspoonpepper

½

teaspoonbakingpowder

Pinchnutmeg

Vegetableoilspray

1. Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and heat oven to 475 degrees.Meanwhile, prick potatoes all over with fork, place on plate, and microwaveuntiltender,18to25minutes,turningpotatoesoverafter10minutes.

2.Cutpotatoesinhalf.Whencoolenoughtohandle,scoopfleshintolargebowlandmashuntilnolumpsremain.Addcream,3tablespoonsbutter,eggandyolk,salt,pepper,bakingpowder,andnutmegandcontinuetomashuntilpotatoesaresmooth. Let cool to room temperature, about 10 minutes. Gently fold inremainingbutteruntilpiecesareevenlydistributed.

3.Transferpotatomixturetopipingbagfittedwith½-inchstartip.Pipeeight4-inch-wide mounds of potato onto rimmed baking sheet. Spray lightly withvegetableoilsprayandbakeuntilgoldenbrown,15to20minutes.Serve.

TOMAKEAHEAD:Oncepipedontobaking sheet, potatoes canbecoveredloosely with plastic wrap and refrigerated for 24 hours. Remove plastic andspraylightlywithvegetableoilspraybeforebaking.

TWOPATHSTOPERFECTPIPING

Withapastrybag fittedwithastar tip,makingbeautifulduchesspotatoes ischild’splay. Ifyoudon’thaveapastrybag,don’tworry:There’sanothereasyway.

WITHPASTRYBAG: Pipe 4-inch circle of potatomixture onto baking sheet.Continue to pipeupwardincirclestoform3-inch-highpeak.

WITHOUTPASTRYBAG:Scooppotatomixtureintozipper-lockbag,snipoff1corner,andpipeasdirected.Usetinesofforktocreaterippledsurface.

FREEZERFRIENDLY

OurDuchessPotatoes freezebeautifully,which is handy, as they’re ideal for a party.Pipe themoundsontoarimmedbakingsheetandthencoverlightlywithplasticwrap.Freezefor2hoursuntilsolidandtransferthepotatoestoanairtightcontainer(orleavethemonthebakingsheetifyou’vegotthespace).Whenyouarereadytobakethem,arrangeonarimmedbakingsheet(orsimply remove the plastic), spray lightly with vegetable oil spray, and bake according to ourrecipe.Theycangostraightfromfreezertooven,andtheywon’tevenneedanyextratime.

SYRACUSESALTPOTATOES

8 cupswater

14 ouncessalt

3poundssmallwhiteorredpotatoes


2 tablespoonsmincedfreshchives

SyracuseSaltPotatoesWHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For Syracuse salt potatoes with a well-

seasonedcrustandultra-creamyinterior,wecutbackontheusual3cupsofsalt,which resulted in overly salty potatoes.We found that white or red potatoesprovedbest,buttheyneededtobeboiledinthesaltedwaterwhole—iftheywerecut or peeled, they absorbed toomuch salt.Though these potatoes are usuallyservedwith plainmelted butter for dipping, we found that adding chives andblackpeppertothebutterbroughtthisdishtonewheights.Seethesidebarsthatfollowtherecipe.

SERVES6TO8

Youwillneed1¼cupsofnoniodizedtablesalt,1½cupsofMortonkoshersalt,or2½cupsofDiamondCrystalkoshersalttoequal14ounces.Weprefertousesmallpotatoes,measuring1to2inchesindiameter,inthisrecipe.

1 teaspoonpepper

1.Setwirerackinrimmedbakingsheet.BringwatertoboilinDutchovenovermedium-high heat. Stir in salt and potatoes and cook until potatoes are justtender,20 to30minutes.Drainpotatoesand transfer topreparedbakingsheet.Letdryuntilsaltycrustforms,about1minute.

2.Meanwhile,microwavebutter,chives,andpepperinmediumbowluntilbutterismelted,about1minute.Transferpotatoestoservingbowlandserve,passingbutterseparately.

SALTMAGIC

Justoutofthesaltywater,thepotatoeswilllooklikeanyotherboiledpotato.

One minute after they’ve been drained, the characteristic salt crust will appear on the potatoskins.

The high salinity means the cooking water gets hotter than normal, resulting in extra-creamypotatoflesh.

SELLINGSALTPOTATOES

Saltpotatoeshasitsoriginsinthemid-1800swhenIrishsaltworkersintheSyracuseareawouldcookunpeelednewpotatoesinhugeevaporationvatsfilledwithboilingsaltwater.In1914,JohnHinerwadel, ownerofaneponymouscentralNewYork clambakecompany,beganofferingsaltpotatoesonhismenu.TheybecamesopopularthatMr.Hinerwadelstartedsellingsaltpotatokits—completewithasackofsmallwhitepotatoesandapacketofsalt—sopeoplecouldmakethepotatoesathome.TheredandwhitebagsofpotatoeswiththesignatureredandyellowsunarestillsoldintheSyracusearea.

MASHEDPOTATOCASSEROLE

4poundsrussetpotatoes,peeledandcutinto1-inchchunks


½ cuphalf-and-half½

cupchickenbroth


1garlicclove,minced

2 teaspoonssalt

MashedPotatoCasseroleWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSMost recipes formashed potato casserole

simplydumpmashedpotatoesinabakingdishandpopitintheoven,butthesedishes always end up bland, gluey, and dense. We wanted a casserole thatdelivered fluffy, buttery, creamypotatoes nestled under a savorygolden crust.Usinghalf-and-half insteadof the traditionalheavycreamlightenedtherecipe,andcuttingitwithchickenbrothkeptthepotatoesmoist.Beatingeggsintothepotatomixturehelpeditachieveafluffy,airytexture.Forboldflavor,weaddedDijonmustardandfreshchives.Seethesidebarsthatfollowtherecipe.

SERVES8

Thecasserolemayalsobebakedina13by9-inchpan.

4 largeeggs

¼

cupfinelychoppedfreshchives

1. Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and heat oven to 375 degrees.Bringpotatoesandwatertocoverby1inchtoboilinlargepotoverhighheat.Reduceheattomediumandsimmeruntilpotatoesaretender,about20minutes.

2. Heat butter, half-and-half, broth,mustard, garlic, and salt in saucepan overmedium-lowheatuntilsmooth,about5minutes.Keepwarm.

3. Drain potatoes and transfer to large bowl. Using stand mixer fitted withpaddle, beat potatoes on medium-low speed, slowly adding half-and-halfmixture,until smoothandcreamy,about1minute.Scrapedownbowl;beat ineggs,1atatime,untilincorporated,about1minute.Foldinchives.

4. Transfer potatomixture to greased 3-quart baking dish. Smooth surface ofpotatoes, thenuse fork tomakepeakeddesignon topof casserole.Bakeuntilpotatoes rise and begin to brown, about 35minutes. Let cool for 10minutes.Serve.

SECRETSTOPERFECTMASHEDPOTATOCASSEROLE

1.Whenpouredintocasseroledish,mashedpotatoeswilllookverysoupy.Theywillfirmupandriseinoven.

2.Forbetterbrowningandanimpressivepresentation,useforktomakepeakeddesignontopofcasserole.

CAN EVAPORATED MILK BE SUBSTITUTED FOR HALF-AND-HALF?

Sorry, the answer is no. We know this because we substituted evaporated milk (whole milkcooked to remove half thewater, resulting in 8 percentmilk fat) in a handful of our recipes—scallopedcorn,mashedpotatoes,vanillapudding,andcarrotsoup—thatcall forhalf-and-half(amixture of milk and cream that ranges from 10.5 percent to 18 percent milk fat). The savorydishesmadewithevaporatedmilkinplaceofhalf-and-halftastedtinny,andthedessertsweretoosweet.

Not willing to give up, we diluted the evaporated milk with water to approximate its pre-evaporated state (4 percentmilk fat) and then used it in place of the half-and-half in our testrecipes.Tastersdidn’tlikethateither,detectingamildlycookedflavor.Wetriedothersubstitutes:Heavycream,becauseofitshighmilk-fatcontent(atleast36percent)mutedthebrightflavorsinourrecipes;wholemilkmadethefoodlessrich,nosurprise,buttheflavorsremainedlively.Wewereable tobestapproximateour localbrandofhalf-and-halfbyusingeither⅔cupskimmilkplus⅓cupheavycreamor¾cupwholemilkplus¼cupheavycream.Ofcourse,todothisyou’llneedtohaveheavycreamonhand.

Ifyouhaveheavycreamandeitherskimorwholemilk,youcanmixupagoodsubstituteforhalf-and-half. If you don’tmind a slightly thinner consistency and lighter flavor, wholemilk willworkinmostrecipes.

⅓CUPHEAVYCREAM+⅔CUPSKIMMILK=1CUPHALF-AND-HALF

¼CUPHEAVYCREAM+¾CUPWHOLEMILK=1CUPHALF-AND-HALF

CREAMYMASHEDSWEETPOTATOES

2poundssweetpotatoes,peeled,quartered,andsliced¼inchthick


3 tablespoonsheavycream

1 teaspoonsugar

Saltandpepper

CreamyMashedSweetPotatoesWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSDeeplyflavored,earthy,andsubtlysweet,

mashedsweetpotatoeshardlyneedalayerofmarshmallowstomakethemintoatempting side. For a silky and full-flavoredmash,we found the secretwas tothinlyslicethepotatoesandcookthemcovered,onthestovetop,overlowheatinasmallamountofbutterandcream.Oncethesweetpotatoeswerefall-aparttender,theycouldbemashedrightinthepot—nodraining,nostraining,nofuss.Addinganotherspoonfulofcreamwhenwemashedthepotatoesenrichedthemevenmore.Seethesidebarsthatfollowtherecipe.

SERVES4TO6

ThisrecipecanbedoubledandpreparedinaDutchoven,butthecookingtimewillneedtobedoubledaswell.

1.Combinesweetpotatoes,butter,2tablespoonscream,sugar,½teaspoonsalt,and¼ teaspoon pepper in large saucepan.Cook, covered, over low heat untilpotatoesarefall-aparttender,35to40minutes.

2.Off heat, add remaining 1 tablespoon cream andmash sweet potatoeswithpotatomasher.Serve.

HERBEDMASHEDSWEETPOTATOESWITHCARAMELIZEDONIONIfyouprefer,substitute¼teaspoondriedthymeforthethymesprig.

Add 1 sprig fresh thyme to saucepan in step 1.While sweet potatoes are cooking, melt 1tablespoonbutter in8-inchnonstickskilletandadd1smallonion,chopped,¼ teaspoonsugar,and¼teaspoonsalt.Cookoverlowheatuntilonioniscaramelized,about15minutes.Removethymeandmashpotatoesasdirected.Stirinonionand1tablespoonsourcream.

SMOKEHOUSEMASHEDSWEETPOTATOES

Add ⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper to saucepan in step 1. Mash sweet potatoes with ½ cupshreddedsmokedGoudacheeseandcoverwithliduntilcheesemelts,about1minute.Sprinklewith6sliceschoppedcookedbaconand1thinlyslicedscallion.

NO-BOILSWEETPOTATOES

Boilingsweetpotatoesinlotsofliquid—asyouwouldregularpotatoes—isnotagoodidea.Sweetpotatoeswillsoakuptoomuchwater,andtheresultingmashwillbeasoggymess.Bettertocookthem inasmallamountof liquid.Just2 tablespoonsofheavycream(plusa littlebutter),alongwith the water released from the sweet potatoes as they cook, is enough to steam them totenderness.

THESLICEISRIGHT

Itisimperativetocutthesweetpotatointothin,evenslicestoensureperfectcooking.

1.Quartereachpeeledsweetpotatolengthwise.

2.Cuteachquarterinto¼-inchslicescrosswise.

SWEETCORNSPOONBREAD

1 cupcornmeal

2¾

cupswholemilk


2 cupsfreshcorn

1 teaspoonsugar

1 teaspoonsalt

SweetCornSpoonbread WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For a fluffy, soufflé-style sweet corn

spoonbreadwithdeepcornflavor,wefocusedonflavor,thentexture.Sautéingthe corn in butter, before steeping it inmilk and pureeing it, ensured that thesweetcornflavorpermeatedourspoonbread.Tomakesurethecornmealdidn’timpartagrittytexture,wesoakeditinthemilkbeforehand.Andtoguaranteeastablefoamandanimpressiverise,webeattheeggwhiteswithabitofcreamoftartar.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES6

You will need three ears of corn to yield 2 cups. Frozen corn, thawed anddrainedwell,canbesubstitutedforthefreshcorn.

⅛ teaspooncayennepepper

3largeeggs,separated

¼

teaspooncreamoftartar

1.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento400degrees.Grease1½-quart soufflé dish or 8-inch baking dish.Whisk cornmeal and¾ cupmilk inbowluntilcombined;setaside.

2.MeltbutterinDutchovenovermedium-highheat.Cookcornuntilbeginningto brown, about 3 minutes. Stir in remaining 2 cups milk, sugar, salt, andcayenneandbringtoboil.Offheat,covermixtureandletsteepfor15minutes.

3. Transfer warm corn mixture to blender or food processor and puree untilsmooth.Return topotandbring toboil.Reduceheat to lowandaddcornmealmixture,whisking constantly, until thickened, 2 to3minutes; transfer to largebowlandletcooltoroomtemperature,about20minutes.Oncemixtureiscool,whiskineggyolksuntilcombined.

4.Usingstandmixerfittedwithwhisk,beateggwhitesandcreamof tartaronmedium-lowspeeduntilfoamy,about1minute.Increasespeedtomedium-highandwhipuntilstiffpeaksform,3to4minutes.Whiskone-thirdofwhitesintocorn mixture, then gently fold in remaining whites until combined. Scrapemixtureintoprepareddishandtransfertooven.Reduceoventemperatureto350degreesandbakeuntilspoonbreadisgoldenbrownandhasrisenaboverimofdish,about45minutes.Serveimmediately.

INDIVIDUALSPOONBREADSTo make individual spoonbreads, divide batter among 6 greased 7-ounce ramekins. Arrangeramekins on rimmed baking sheet and bake as directed, reducing cooking time to 30 to 35minutes.

EGGWHITES101

Eggwhitesaremosteasilywhipped inaverycleanmetalbowlwithapinchofcreamof tartar,whichpromotesstabilization.

SOFTPEAKSSoftpeakswilldroopslightlydownwardfromtipofwhiskorbeater.

STIFFPEAKSStiffpeakswillstanduptallontheirown.

OVERWHIPPEDOverwhippedeggwhiteswilllookcurdledandseparated;ifyoureachthispoint,startoverwith

newwhitesandcleanbowl.

CHAPTER5:TEX-MEXFAVORITES

UltimateSpicyBeefNachos

UltimateSeven-LayerDip

ChunkyGuacamole

California-StyleFishTacos

EasyChickenTacos

EasierChickenChimichangas

SmokySalsaVerde

AuthenticBeefEnchiladas

EasyChiliconCarne

Five-AlarmChili

Mexicanmigrationtotheunitedstatesbeganattheendofthe19thcentury.Asimmigrants adapted to available foods and American tastes, Mexican foodmorphed into a new cuisine—less spicy and less labor-intensive. During thetranslationprocess,manyoftheMexicanoriginalsbecamemeatierandheavier.(AsimilarphenomenonoccurredwhenItaliandisheswereadaptedintheU.S.,withrecipesbecomingcheesierandricher.)Forexample,enchiladasandtacos,which had been commonly served in Mexico as street food (and eaten as asnack),madetheirwayontorestaurantmenusinnewways,slatheredwithsauceand cheese and rounded out with rice and beans. As Tex-Mex food becamepopular in all regions of the country, dishes were increasingly Americanized.Today,somemightarguethatTex-Mexis themostpopularAmericanregionalcuisine. Taco and enchilada kits have become supermarket staples, whileburritosareascommononthefast-foodsceneasburgers.

Ingeneral,ourapproachtoTex-Mexcookingistohonorthecomplexoriginsof these dishes and their unique cross-border heritage, whilemaking sure thefood is fresh and vibrant. We focus on several Tex-Mex favorites (no kitsrequired),suchasheartybeefynachos,chickentacosperfectforanyweeknight,andstick-to-yourribschiliconcarnethatreliesonsupermarketingredientsbutdoesn’tskimponcomplexflavor.

ULTIMATESPICYBEEFNACHOS

REFRIEDBEANS

½

cupcannedrefriedbeans

3 tablespoonsshreddedpepperJackcheese

1tablespoonchoppedcannedjalapeños

SPICYBEEF

UltimateSpicyBeefNachosWHY THIS RECIPEWORKS Too often, nacho recipes produce soggy

chips loaded down with bland, greasy beef, dry beans, and cold strings ofcheese. Instead, we wanted hearty nachos that are crisp, flavorful, and fresh.Boldlyseasoningourbeefwithamixtureofspicesandotherflavoringscausedtheflavortopop.Whilemanynachorecipescallforcheddarcheese,wefounditdidn’tmeltnearlyaswellaspepperJack,whichmeltedsmoothlyandaddedakick,too.

SERVES8

In addition to ourOne-MinuteSalsa (recipe follows), garnish the nachoswithsourcream,choppedcilantro,anddicedavocado.


1smallonion,choppedfine


1 tablespoonchilipowder

1 teaspoongroundcumin

½


1 teaspoonsalt



1 teaspoonpackedbrownsugar

1½ teaspoonsmincedcannedchipotlechileinadobosauce,plus1teaspoonadobosauce

½

cupwater

2 teaspoonslimejuice

1(9.5-ounce)bagtortillachips

1poundpepperJackcheese,shredded(4cups)

2jalapeñochiles,slicedintothinrings

1recipeOne-MinuteSalsa

1.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento400degrees.

2. FOR THE REFRIED BEANS: Pulse ingredients in food processor untilsmooth,about10pulses.Transfertobowlandcoverwithplasticwrap.

3.FORTHESPICYBEEF:Heat oil in large skillet overmediumheat untilshimmering. Cook onion until softened, about 4 minutes. Add garlic, chilipowder,cumin,oregano,andsaltandcookuntil fragrant,about1minute.Addbeefandcook,breakingmeat into smallbitswithwooden spoonand scrapingpan bottom to prevent scorching, until no longer pink, about 5 minutes. Addtomato paste, sugar, chipotle, and adobo sauce and cook until paste begins todarken,about1minute.Addwater,bringtosimmer,andcookovermedium-lowuntilmixtureisnearlydry,5to7minutes.Stirinlimejuiceandtransfermixturetoplatelinedwithseverallayersofpapertowels.Usemorepapertowelstoblotupexcessgrease.

4.TOASSEMBLE:Spreadhalfofchipsonlargeovensafeservingplatterorin13by9-inchbakingdish.Dollophalfofbeanmixtureoverchips, thenspreadevenly.Scatterhalfofbeefmixtureoverbeans,topwith2cupscheeseandhalfof jalapeños.Repeatwith remaining chips, beans, beef, cheese, and jalapeños.Bakeuntilcheeseismeltedandjustbeginningtobrown,12to14minutes.Servewithsalsaandothersuggestedgarnishes.

½

smallredonion

¼

cupfreshcilantroleaves

2tablespoonsjarredjalapeños,drained

1 tablespoonlimejuice

1garlicclove,peeled

¼

teaspoonsalt

1(14.5-ounce)candicedtomatoes,drained

ONE-MINUTESALSA

MAKESABOUT1CUP

Makesuretodrainboththetomatoesandthejalapeñosbeforeprocessing.Thesalsawillkeepfortwodaysintherefrigerator.Seasontotastebeforeserving.

Pulse onion, cilantro, jalapeños, lime juice, garlic, and salt in food processoruntil roughly chopped, about 5pulses.Add tomatoes andpulseuntil chopped,about2pulses.Transfermixturetofine-meshstraineranddrainbriefly.Serve.

ULTIMATESEVEN-LAYERDIP

4largetomatoes,cored,seeded,andchoppedfine

2jalapeñochiles,stemmed,seeded,andminced

3 tablespoonschoppedfreshcilantro

6scallions(2minced,4withgreenpartsslicedthinandwhitepartsdiscarded)

2tablespoonsplus2teaspoonslimejuice(2limes)

UltimateSeven-LayerDipWHY THIS RECIPE WORKS With bold Southwestern flavors and an

appealing ingredient list, seven-layer dip recipes sound like a hit. But mostversionsof thispartyclassicassume thatguestswon’tnotice themessy layersandtiredflavors.Inourversion,cannedblackbeansstoodinforrefriedbeans,while garlic, chili powder, and lime juice added flavor. We found that sourcreamon itsownquicklywatereddownourdip,butcombining itwithcheesegavethislayermorestructure.Seethesidebarsthatfollowtherecipe.

SERVES8TO10

This recipe is usually served in a clear dish so you can see the layers. For acrowd,double therecipeandserve ina13by9-inchglassbakingdish. Ifyoudon’t have time to make fresh guacamole as called for, simply mash threeavocadoswith3tablespoonslimejuiceand½teaspoonsalt.

Salt

1(15-ounce)canblackbeans,drainedbutnotrinsed


¾

teaspoonchilipowder

1½

cupssourcream

1poundpepperJackcheese,shredded(4cups)

1recipeChunkyGuacamole

Tortillachips

1. Combine tomatoes, jalapeños, cilantro,minced scallions, and 2 tablespoonslimejuiceinmediumbowl.Stirin⅛teaspoonsaltandletstanduntiltomatoesbegintosoften,about30minutes.Strainmixtureintobowlanddiscardliquid.

2.Pulseblackbeans,garlic,remaining2teaspoonslimejuice,chilipowder,and⅛ teaspoonsalt in foodprocessoruntilmixture resembleschunkypaste,about15pulses.Transfertobowlandwipeoutfoodprocessor.Pulsesourcreamand2½cupspepperJackuntilsmooth,about15pulses.Transfertoseparatebowl.

3.Spreadbeanmixtureevenlyoverbottomof8-inchsquarebakingdishor1-quartglassbowl.Spreadsourcreammixtureevenlyoverbeanlayerandsprinkleevenlywithremaining1½cupscheese.Spreadguacamoleovercheeseandtopwithtomatomixture.Sprinklewithslicedscalliongreensandservewithtortillachips. (Dip can be refrigerated for up to 24 hours. Let dip stand at roomtemperaturefor1hourbeforeserving.)

ULTIMATESMOKYSEVEN-LAYERDIPCook4slicesbaconin10-inchskilletovermedium-highheatuntilcrisp,about8minutes.Drainonpaper towel–lined plate and crumble. Pulse 1 to 3 teaspoonsminced canned chipotle chile inadobosaucewithblackbeansinstep2.Garnishdipwithcrumbledbaconalongwithscallions.

PROCESSINGYOURPICO

Although the pico de gallo topping in our Ultimate Seven-Layer Dip adds lots of fresh flavor,choppingalltheingredientsbyhandtakessomework.Wefoundthatafoodprocessorgetsthejobdone,butthetexturewon’tbeasperfectlyuniformaspicomadebyhand.Tomakepicodegallointhefoodprocessor,startbypulsingjalapeñoswithcilantrountilfinelychopped.Thenaddquartered, cored, and seeded tomatoes and pulse in 1-second bursts until the tomatoes areevenlychopped.Addmincedscallionsandlimejuice.Strainasinstructed.

SEEDINGJALAPEÑOS

Mostoftheheatinachilepepperisintheribsandseeds.Aneasywaytoremovebothissimplyto cut the pepper in half lengthwise, then, starting at the end opposite the stem, use amelonballertoscoopdowntheinsideofeachhalf.(Youcanalsousethesharpedgeofthemelonballertocutoffthestem.)

CHUNKYGUACAMOLE

2scallions,greenandwhitepartsseparatedandslicedthin

1jalapeñochile,stemmed,seeded,andminced

1smallgarlicclove,minced

¼ teaspoonfinelygratedlimezestplus2tablespoonsjuice

3avocados,halved,pitted,andcubed


ChunkyGuacamole WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS The best guacamole starts with ripe

avocados, but other ingredients often overwhelm their delicate flavor. Tasterslikedtheflavorofmincedgarlicinguacamole,butthoughtrawonionswerejusttooharsh.Instead,scallionslentamelloweronionflavor.Steepingtheminlimejuice for a few minutes before combining them with the avocados mellowedtheirflavorevenmore.Toprovidesometexturalcontrasttoourguacamole,wechopped the avocados and thenmashed just two-thirds of the chunks. See thesidebarsthatfollowtherecipe

MAKESABOUT3CUPS

Preparingtheguacamoleaheadoftimehelpstheflavorsmarry,butitshouldnotbe prepared more than one day in advance. To prevent the dip from turningbrown,pressasheetofplasticwrapdirectlyontothesurfaceandrefrigerateuntilreadytouse.WepreferpebblyHassavocadostothesmootherFuertevariety.

1.Combinescallionwhites,jalapeño,garlic,andlimejuiceinlargebowl.Letsitfor30minutes.

2.Add two-thirds of avocado pieces to bowlwith jalapeñomixture andmashwith potato masher until smooth. Gently fold remaining avocado pieces intomashedavocadomixture.Gentlystir inlimezest,scalliongreens,andcilantro.Seasonwithsalttotaste.Serve.

RIPENINGAVOCADOS

Avocadoshaveanotoriouslysmallwindowofperfectripeness.Tosee ifwecouldbroadenthistimeframe,weboughtacaseofunripeavocadosandripenedthematroomtemperatureandinthe refrigerator threeways:on thecounter (or refrigerator shelf), enclosed inapaperbag,andenclosedinapaperbagwithpiecesofgreenapple(fruitgivesoffethylenegas,whichhelpsmanyfruitsandvegetablesripenmorequickly).Wealsotriedtwomoreesoterictechniques:buryingtheavocadosatroomtemperatureinflourandinrice.Intheend,theonlythingthatmatteredwasthetemperatureatwhichtheavocadoswerestored.

Atroomtemperature,rock-hardavocadosripenedwithintwodays,butmanyofthemendedupripeningunevenly,developingsoftspotsandairpocketsononeside justastheothersidewasripening.Aftercompletelyripening,theylastedtwodaysonaverageifkeptatroomtemperature(stored in the fridgeafter ripening, they lasted five days).Avocados ripened in the refrigerator,whetherinabagoroutintheopen,tookaroundfourdaystosoften,butdidsoevenly.Storedinthefridge,theylastedafullfivedaysbeforestartingtoshowsignsofoverripening.

Thebottomline:Ifyouneedyouravocadostoripensoonerratherthanlater,keepthemonthecounter.Otherwise,forbetterquality,you’rebetteroffputtingtheminthefridgeandallowingthemtoripenslowly.Ineithercase,storetheripenedfruitinthefridgetoextenditsshelflife.

PREPARINGAVOCADOFORGUACAMOLE

1.Halveavocado.Strikepit sharplywith chef’s knife.Twist blade to removepit, thenusedishtoweltopullpitoffblade.

2. Place avocado half on dish towel to secure it andmake½-inch crosshatch slices into fleshwithoutcuttingthroughskin.

3.Insertspoonbetweenskinandfleshtoseparatethetwo.Gentlyscoopoutavocadocubes.

CALIFORNIA-STYLEFISHTACOS

PICKLEDONIONS

1smallredonion,halvedandslicedthin

2jalapeñochiles,stemmedandslicedintothinrings

1 cupwhitewinevinegar

2 tablespoonslimejuice

California-StyleFishTacosWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSWewantedourCalifornia-Style fish tacos

tobelight,fresh,andsimple,withaperfectbalanceofflavorsandtextures.Anultrathinbeerbatterusingacombinationofflour,cornstarch,andbakingpowderproved tobe ideal forgettinga light,crispycoatingon thedelicatewhite fish.Quick-pickled onions and jalapeños added tart spiciness, and tossing shreddedcabbage with the pickling liquid just before serving added flavor withoutovercomplicating the dish. Lime juice and sour cream added tang to thetraditionalcreamywhitesauce.

SERVES6

Althoughthisrecipelooksinvolved,allthecomponentsareeasytoexecuteandmostcanbemadeinadvance.Light-bodiedAmericanlagers,suchasBudweiser,workbesthere.Cutthefishonaslightbiasifyourfilletsaren’tquite4incheswide.Youshouldendupwithabout24piecesoffish.Servewithgreensalsa,ifdesired.

1 tablespoonsugar

1 teaspoonsalt

CABBAGE

3 cupsshreddedgreencabbage

¼ cuppicklingliquidfrompickledonions½

teaspoonsalt

½

teaspoonpepper

WHITESAUCE

½

cupmayonnaise

½

cupsourcream

2 tablespoonslimejuice

2 tablespoonsmilk

FISH

2poundsskinlesswhitefishfillets,suchascod,haddock,orhalibut,cutcrosswiseinto4by1-inchstrips

Saltandpepper

¾ cupall-purposeflour¼

cupcornstarch


1 cupbeer


24(6-inch)corntortillas,warmed

1 cupfreshcilantroleaves

1.FORTHEPICKLEDONIONS:Combineonionand jalapeños inmediumbowl.Bringvinegar, limejuice,sugar,andsalt toboil insmallsaucepan.Pourvinegarmixtureoveronionmixtureandletsitforat least30minutes.(Pickledonionscanbemadeandrefrigeratedupto2daysinadvance.)

2.FORTHECABBAGE:Tossallingredientstogetherinbowl.

3.FORTHEWHITESAUCE:Whiskallingredientstogetherinbowl.(Saucecanbemadeandrefrigeratedupto2daysinadvance.)

4.FORTHEFISH:Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento200degrees. Set wire rack inside rimmed baking sheet. Pat fish dry with papertowelsandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Whiskflour,cornstarch,bakingpowder,and 1 teaspoon salt together in large bowl.Add beer andwhisk until smooth.Transferfishtobatterandtossuntilevenlycoated.

5.AddoiltolargeDutchovenuntilitmeasuresabout¾inchdeepandheatovermedium-highheatto350degrees.Workingwith5to6piecesatatime,removefish from batter, allowing excess to drip back into bowl, and add to hot oil,brieflydragging fish along surfaceofoil toprevent sticking.Adjust burner, ifnecessary, tomaintainoil temperaturebetween325and350degrees.Fry fish,stirringgentlytopreventpiecesfromstickingtogether,untilgoldenbrownandcrispy,about2minutesperside.Transferfishtopreparedwirerackandplaceinoventokeepwarm.Returnoilto350degreesandrepeatwithremainingfish.

6.Dividefishevenlyamong tortillas.Topwithpickledonions,cabbage,whitesauce,andcilantro.Serve.

EASYCHICKENTACOS



2 teaspoonsmincedcannedchipotle

chileinadobosauce

¾

cupchoppedfreshcilantro

½

EasyChickenTacos WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS We like the convenience of boneless,

skinlesschickenbreasts in tacos,but theycanbedry.After tryingavarietyofcookingmethods,we found that poaching producedmeat thatwas tender andmoist.Chipotlechilesgaveourpoachingliquidasmoky,full-bodiedflavorandorange juice offered a touch of sweetness that tempered its vivid acidity. Formorerobustflavor,wecalledontwokitchenstaples:Worcestershiremimickedthecomplexflavorofdarkmeat,andmustardaddedsharpnessthatbalancedthesweetorangejuiceandsmokychipotle.Seethesidebarsthatfollowtherecipe.

SERVES6

Towarmthetortillas,wraptheminfoilandheatthemina350-degreeovenfor15minutes.Topthetacoswithshreddedlettuce,gratedcheese,dicedavocado,choppedtomato,andsourcream.

cuporangejuice



1 teaspoonyellowmustard

Saltandpepper

12(6-inch)flourtortillas

1.Melt butter in large skillet overmedium-high heat.Add garlic and chipotleandcookuntil fragrant,about30seconds.Stir in½cupcilantro,orange juice,andWorcestershire andbring to boil.Add chicken and simmer, covered, overmedium-low heat untilmeat registers 160 degrees, 10 to 15minutes, flippingchickenhalfwaythroughcooking.Transfertoplateandtentwithaluminumfoil.

2.Increaseheattomedium-highandcookuntilliquidisreducedto¼cup,about5minutes.Offheat,whisk inmustard.Using2 forks, shredchicken intobite-sizepiecesandreturntoskillet.Addremaining¼cupcilantrotoskilletandtossuntilwellcombined.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Servewithtortillas.

STORINGCANNEDCHIPOTLECHILES

Whenarecipeusesjustateaspoonortwoofchipotlechiles,here’showtostoretherestofthecan.

Cannedchipotlechilesarejalapeñosthathavebeenripeneduntilred,smoked,andpackedina tangy tomato-based adobo sauce. Since the size of chipotles varies, in the test kitchen wemeasurethembymincedteaspoons.Couldwestoreleftoversinthefreezer,orwouldtheylosetheirpotency?Tosee,wepureedseveralcansandfrozemeasuredteaspoonsonaplasticwrap–coveredplate.Onceour“chipotlechips”werehard,wepeeledthemofftheplasticandtransferredthemtoazipper-lockfreezerbag.

Weeks laterwemadeasalsaandacasserolewith thefrozenchipotlesandcomparedthemwiththesamedishesmadewithchilesfromanewlyopenedcan.Mosttasterscouldn’ttellthetwoapart.Thechipotleswillkeep forup to twomonths in the freezerandshouldbe thawedbeforeyouusethem.Thechileswillalsolastfortwoweeksintherefrigerator.

SHREDDINGCHICKEN

Holdoneforkineachhand,withtinesfacingdown.Inserttinesintochickenandgentlypullforksawayfromeachother,breakingmeatapartandintolongthinshreds.

SURPRISEINGREDIENTS

In other recipes, you’d call these ordinary ingredients. But in a taco? Together, they addunexpecteddepthanddimensiontooursimplechickentacos.

YELLOWMUSTARD,WORCESTERSHIRESAUCE,ORANGEJUICE,ANDBUTTER

EASIERCHICKENCHIMICHANGAS

1¼

cupschickenbroth

1tablespoonmincedcannedchipotlechileinadobosauce

½ cuplong-grainwhiterice

Saltandpepper


1tablespoonpeanutorvegetableoil,plus3cupsforfrying

1onion,choppedfine

garliccloves,minced

EasierChickenChimichangasWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSForgetabout tastelessfillings.Wesimmer

thechickenandriceforourchimichangasinachipotlebroth,infusingthemwitha smoky bite through and through. As for construction, we noticed that thestandard burrito-style wrapping method left us with doughy tortilla ends andfilling that fell out. We created an easy new folding technique that kept thefillingputwithoutanyflourybites.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES4

Ifusingacast-ironDutchoven,increasethebrothto1¾cups,adding1¼cupsinstep2.ServewithSmokySalsaVerde.

2

1 teaspoonchilipowder

½

teaspoongroundcumin

1(15-ounce)canpintobeans,rinsed

4ouncessharpcheddarcheese,shredded(1cup)

⅓


1tablespoonall-purposeflour

1 tablespoonwater

4(10-inch)flourtortillas

1.Whiskbrothandchipotletogetherin2-cupliquidmeasuringcup.Combine½cup chipotle broth, rice, and ¼ teaspoon salt in bowl. Cover bowl andmicrowaveuntilliquidiscompletelyabsorbed,about5minutes.Meanwhile,patchickendrywithpapertowelsandseasonwithsaltandpepper.

2. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in Dutch oven over medium-high heat until justsmoking.Addonionandcookuntilsoftened,about5minutes.Stiringarlic,chilipowder,andcuminandcookuntilfragrant,about30seconds.Addremaining¾cupchipotlebroth,parcookedrice,andbeansandbringtoboil.

3.Reduce heat tomedium-low, add chicken, and cook, covered, until chickenregisters 160 degrees and rice is tender, about 15 minutes, flipping chickenhalfwaythroughcooking.Transferchickentocuttingboardandletrestfor5to10 minutes. Cut chicken into ½-inch pieces and combine with rice and beanmixture,cheddar,andcilantroinlargebowl.Washnow-emptypot.

4.Whisk flour and water together in small bowl. Stack tortillas on plate andmicrowave,covered,untilpliable,about1minute.Workingoneatatime,placeone-quarterofchickenmixtureincenterofwarmtortilla.Brushedgesoftortillawithflourpaste.Wraptopandbottomoftortillatightlyoverfilling.Brushendsoftortillawithpasteandfoldintocenter,pressingfirmlytoseal.

5.Setwirerackinrimmedbakingsheet.Heatremaining3cupsoilincleanpotover medium-high heat until 325 degrees. Place 2 chimichangas, seam sidedown, in oil. Fry, adjusting burner as necessary to maintain oil temperaturebetween300and325degrees,untilchimichangasaredeepgoldenbrown,about4minutes, turning themhalfway through frying.Drain onpreparedwire rack.Bringoilbackto325degreesandrepeatwithremainingchimichangas.Serve.

GLUEANDFOLD

Theusualburrito-stylewrappingmethodleftusbetweenthedevilandthedeepbluesea:Eitherthefillingleakedoutinthepotofoilortheendsofthetortillanevercrisped.Ournewchimichangafoldingtechniquesolvesbothproblems.

1.Place filling inmiddleof tortilla.Brush tortilla’scircumferencewith flour-and-waterpaste.Thepasteactsasglue,lettingyousecurelysealchimichanga.

2.Afteryou’vefolded2opposingsidestowardcenterandpressedthemtoseal,brushopenflapswithmorepaste.Foldflapsinandagainpressfirmlytosealchimichangashut.

SMOKYSALSAVERDE

1poundtomatillos,husksandstemsremoved,rinsedwellanddried

1smallonion,quartered

1jalapeñochile,stemmed,halved,andseeded

1garlicclove,peeled

1 teaspoonoliveoil

½

cupfreshcilantroleaves

SmokySalsaVerdeWHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Our recipe for salsa verde includes the

typical ingredients: tomatillos,onions,garlic, jalapeño,and lotsofcilantro.Totempertheirsharplyacidicflavor,webroiledthetomatillosjustuntiltender.Wealsobroiled theother vegetables toprovide subtle smokiness.Our recipe callsforalargeamountofcilantrotoensurethatitsflavorstandsoutfromtheotheringredients.Seethesidebarsthatfollowtherecipe.

MAKES1¼CUPS

Thissalsa isespeciallygoodservedwithourEasierChickenChimichangas,ortry it with just about anything you’d serve salsa with, such as tortilla chips,grilledsteak,orscrambledeggs.

1 tablespoonlimejuice

Salt

1. Adjust oven rack 5 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Tosstomatillos,onion,jalapeño,andgarlicwithoilandplaceonaluminumfoil–linedrimmed baking sheet. Broil, shaking pan occasionally, until vegetables arelightlycharred,10to12minutes.Coolslightly,about5minutes.

2.Addvegetables,cilantro,limejuice,and¼teaspoonsalttofoodprocessorandpulseuntilcoarselyground,5to7pulses.Seasonwithsalttotaste.Serve.(Salsacanberefrigeratedforupto3days.)

TOMATILLOS

Calledtomatesverdes(greentomatoes)inmuchofMexico,smallgreentomatilloshaveatangier,morecitrusyflavorthantruegreentomatoes.Whenchoosingtomatillos,lookforpale-greenorbswith firm flesh that fills and splits open the fruit’s outer papery husk, whichmust be removedbeforecooking.Avoid tomatillos thatare tooyellowandsoft,as thesespecimensarepast theirprimeandwilltastesourandmuted.

REVIVINGTIREDHERBS

Werarelyuseanentirebunchofherbsatonce,andinevitablyafewdayslatertheyarelookingless-than-freshandwehave to throw themoutandstartallover. Is thereaway to revive tiredherbs?Witha little research,wefoundthatsoakingherbs inwater restores thepressureof thecellcontentsagainstthecellwall,causingthemtobecomefirmerasthedehydratedcellsplumpup.So,afterpurposelylettingseveralbunchesofparsley,cilantro,andmintsitintherefrigeratoruntil theybecamelimp,sorry-lookingversionsoftheirformerselves,wetriedbringingtheherbsback to life by soaking them in tepid and cold water. We found that soaking herbs (stemstrimmed)for10minutesincoldwaterperksthemupbetterthantepidwater.Theseherbshadafresherlookandanimprovedtexture.

AUTHENTICBEEFENCHILADAS



2 teaspoonsgroundcoriander

2 teaspoonsgroundcumin

1 teaspoonsugar

Salt

AuthenticBeefEnchiladasWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSTraditionalbeefenchiladasrecipesrequire

simmeringsteakforhours.Conveniencerecipescallforhamburgerandcannedsauce.We wanted to find a middle ground. For a deeply flavored sauce, wereliedonchilipowderand tomatosauce,alongwithonions,garlic,andspices.Slicingbeefy, inexpensiveblade steaks into smallpieces cutour cooking timeconsiderably.Authenticrecipesfrythecorntortillasandthendiptheminsaucetosoftenandseason them. Instead,wesoftened the tortillas in themicrowave.Oncefilled,toppedwithsauceandcheese,andbaked,ourenchiladastastedliketherealdeal.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES4TO6

Cutbackonthepickledjalapeñosifyoulikeyourenchiladasonthemildside.

1¼ poundstopbladesteaks,trimmed


2onions,chopped


½

cupwater

8ouncesMontereyJackormildcheddarcheese,shredded(2cups)

⅓


¼ cupchoppedcannedjalapeños

12(6-inch)corntortillas

1.Combinechilipowder,garlic,coriander,cumin,sugar,and1teaspoonsaltinsmallbowl.Patmeatdrywithpaper towels and sprinklewith salt.Heatoil inDutchovenovermedium-highheatuntilshimmering.Cookmeatuntilbrownedonboth sides, about6minutes.Transfermeat toplate.Addonions topot andcookovermediumheatuntilgolden,about5minutes.Stiringarlicmixtureandcookuntil fragrant, about 1minute.Add tomato sauce andwater andbring toboil.Returnmeatandjuicestopot,cover,reduceheattolow,andgentlysimmeruntil meat is tender and can be broken apart with wooden spoon, about 1½hours.

2.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento350degrees.Strainbeefmixture over medium bowl, breaking meat into small pieces; reserve sauce.Transfermeattobowlandmixwith1cupcheese,cilantro,andjalapeños.

3.Spread¾cupsauceinbottomof13by9-inchbakingdish.Place6tortillasonplate and microwave until soft, about 1 minute. Spread⅓ cup beef mixturedowncenterofeachtortilla,rolltortillastightly,andsetinbakingdishseamsidedown.Repeatwithremainingtortillasandbeefmixture(youmayhavetofit2ormoreenchiladasdownthesidesofthebakingdish).Pourremainingsauceoverenchiladas and spread to coat evenly. Sprinkle remaining1 cup cheese evenlyoverenchiladas,wrapwithaluminumfoil,andbakeuntilheatedthrough,20to25minutes.Removefoilandcontinuebakinguntilcheesebrownsslightly,5to10minutes.Serve.

TRIMMINGBLADESTEAKS

After testing variousbeef cuts,we found that bladesteaks (whichare cut from thechuck)hadenoughmarblingtoproducesilky,flavorfulshreddedbeefforourenchiladas.Theonlytrickistocutawaythecenterstripofgristle,whichisveryeasytodobecausethestripisinplainsightinthemiddleofeachsteak.Simplyhalveeachsteaklengthwiseandthensliceawaythegristle,asshownhere.

EASYCHILICONCARNE


2teaspoonsmincedcannedchipotlechileinadobosauce

4slicesbacon,choppedfine

1(3½-to4-pound)bonelessbeefchuck-eyeroast,pulledapartatseams, trimmed,andcutinto1-inchpieces

Saltandpepper

EasyChiliconCarne WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Many chili con carne recipes call for

toasting and grindingwhole chiles.Wewanted to create a simpler, authentic-tastingversion.Forthemeat,wesettledonbeefchuck,ourfavoritecutforstewsbecause its substantial marbling provides rich flavor and tender texture afterprolongedcooking.Toaddasmokymeatinesstoourchili,webrownedthebeefin bacon fat instead of oil.We added a jalapeño for brightness and heat andmincedchipotleforsmoky,spicydepth.Afewtablespoonsofcornmuffinmix,inplaceofmasaharina(cornflour),helpedthickenourchiliandgaveitasilkytexture.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES6TO8

Ifthebacondoesnotrenderafull3tablespoonsoffatinstep1,supplementitwithvegetableoil.Ifdesired,servechiliwithchoppedonion,avocado,shreddedcheese,limewedges,and/orhotsauce.

1 onion,choppedfine

1jalapeñochile,stemmed,seeded,andchoppedfine



1½

teaspoonsgroundcumin

½


4 cupswater


2 tablespoonsyellowcornmuffinmix

1.Processtomatoesandchipotleinfoodprocessoruntilsmooth.CookbaconinDutch oven overmedium heat until crisp, about 8minutes. Transfer bacon topapertowel–linedplateandreserve3tablespoonsbaconfat.

2. Pat beef dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat 1tablespoonreservedbaconfatinnow-emptyDutchovenovermedium-highheatuntil just smoking.Brownhalfofbeef, about8minutes.Transfer tobowlandrepeatwith1tablespoonbaconfatandremainingbeef.

3.Add remaining 1 tablespoon bacon fat, onion, and jalapeño to again-emptyDutchovenandcookuntilsoftened,about5minutes.Stirinchilipowder,garlic,cumin, and oregano and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in water,pureed tomato mixture, bacon, browned beef, and sugar and bring to boil.Reduceheat to lowandsimmer,covered, for1hour.Skimfatandcontinue tosimmeruncovereduntilmeatistender,30to45minutes.

4.Ladle1cupchililiquidintomediumbowlandstirinmuffinmix;coverwithplastic wrap. Microwave until mixture is thickened, about 1 minute. Slowlywhisk mixture into chili and simmer until chili is slightly thickened, 5 to 10minutes.Seasonwithsaltandpepper to taste.Serve. (Chilicanbe refrigeratedforupto3days.)

SILKYSAUCE

Ourchiligetssilkytextureandahintofcornflavorfromtheadditionofcornmuffinmix.

THESECRETINGREDIENT

FIVE-ALARMCHILI

2ounces(4to6)driedanchochiles,stemmed,seeded,andcutinto1-inchpieces

3½

cupswater

1(28-ounce)canwholepeeledtomatoes

¾

cupcrushedcorntortillachips

¼ cupcannedchipotlechileinadobosauceplus2teaspoonsadobosauce


Five-AlarmChiliWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSAsthenameimplies,five-alarmchilishould

bespicyenough tomakeyoubreaka sweat—but ithas tohave rich,complexchile flavor as well.We used a combination of dried anchos, smoky chipotlechilesinadobosauce,freshjalapeños,andchilipowdertocreatelayersofspicyflavor. Ground beef added meaty bulk, and pureeing the chiles along withcanned tomatoes andcorn chips addedextrabodyandanother layerof flavor.Mellowedwith a bit of sugar and enrichedwith creamypintobeans, our chiliwaswellbalancedand spicywithoutbeingharsh.See the sidebar that followstherecipe.

SERVES8TO10

Lookforanchochilesintheinternationalaisleatthesupermarket.Light-bodiedAmericanlagers,suchasBudweiser,workbesthere.Servechiliwithlime,sourcream,dicedtomato,dicedavocado,scallions,andcornbread.

2pounds85percentleangroundbeef

Saltandpepper

2poundsonions,choppedfine

2jalapeñochiles,stemmed,seedsreserved,andminced


2 tablespoonsgroundcumin



2 teaspoonsgroundcoriander

2 teaspoonssugar

1 teaspooncayennepepper

1½

cupsbeer

3(15-ounce)canspintobeans,rinsed

1.Combine anchos and1½cupswater inbowl andmicrowaveuntil softened,about 3minutes.Drain and discard liquid. Process anchos, tomatoes and theirjuice,remaining2cupswater,tortillachips,chipotle,andadobosauceinblenderuntilsmooth,about1minute;setaside.

2.Heat2teaspoonsoilinDutchovenovermedium-highheatuntiljustsmoking.Addbeef,1teaspoonsalt,and½teaspoonpepperandcook,breakinguppieceswith spoon,until all liquidhas evaporatedandmeatbegins to sizzle,10 to15minutes.Drainincolanderandsetaside.

3.Heatremaining4teaspoonsoilinnow-emptyDutchovenovermedium-highheatuntilsimmering.Addonionsandjalapeñosandseedsandcookuntilonionsare lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Stir in garlic, cumin, chili powder,oregano, coriander, sugar, and cayenne and cook until fragrant, about 30seconds.Pourinbeerandbringtosimmer.Stirinbeans,reservedchile-tomatomixture,andreservedcookedbeefandreturntosimmer.Cover,reduceheattolow,andcook, stirringoccasionally,until thickened,50 to60minutes.Seasonwithsalttotaste.Serve.

FIVEHITSFORFIVE-ALARMCHILI

JALAPEÑOBringsfreshvegetableflavor

CHIPOTLEINADOBOInstantshortcuttosmokiness

CHILIPOWDERWouldn’tbechiliwithoutit

CAYENNEAddsrawheat

ANCHOAddsdepth,complexity,andmildheat

CHAPTER 6: EVERYBODY LOVESITALIAN

Slow-CookerMinestrone

Slow-CookerItalianSundayGravy

MeatballsandMarinara

Slow-CookerMeatballsandMarinara

Slow-CookerBakedZiti

SkilletChickenParmesan

SkilletLasagna

SpinachandTomatoLasagna

BakedManicottiwithMeatSauce

GrandmaPizza

ItalianPotRoast

PorkChopswithVinegarPeppers

Today, spaghetti and meatballs, lasagna, chicken parmesan, and other ItalianfavoritesseemjustasathomeontheAmericantableasmeatloafandapplepie.Butthe

popularity

of Italian cuisine in theUnited States actually tookmany years to build. Itbegan,

ofcourse,with Italian immigrants.Between1890and1920,about4millionItalian-born

immigrants (almost one-quarter of all American immigrants) came to theStates.World

WarIgaveItalianfooditsfirstmainstreampush,asnewspapersandmagazinearticles

at that time referred to Italian cuisine as “the food of our allies.”Unfortunately,

manypastarecipesof thedaycalledforboilingpastafor30minutesuntil itwas

practicallymush.ButwithProhibition in the1920scamespeakeasies,manyofwhich

were run by Italians (or Sicilians) who knew what they were doing in thekitchen,

andthusdinersdevelopeda tasteforaproperlycookedplateofpasta.Pastawith

tomato sauce, an inexpensive meal, also fit right in on the American tableduring

the tough timesof theDepression.Later,AmericanGIs returningfromItalypost–World

War II brought a love of Italian food back with them. And by this timeHollywoodhad

jumped on the Italian food bandwagon—who can forget the charmingspaghetti-eating

scene in 1955’s Lady and the Tramp—forever cementing the popularity ofItalianfood

in American culture. In this chapter, we include several Italian favorites,including

slow-cookerversionsofmeatballsandmarinaraandSundaygravyalongwitheasier

andquickerapproachestolasagna,manicotti,andchickenParmesan.

SLOW-COOKERMINESTRONE

1cupdriedmedium–sizewhitebeans,rinsedandpickedover


2onions,choppedfine

4carrots,peeledandcutinto½-inchpieces


(28-ounce)canwholepeeledtomatoes,coarselycrushedbyhand

Slow-CookerMinestroneWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSTotranslateaclassicminestronetotheslow

cooker,weneededtofindacombinationofvegetablesthatwouldcookthroughin thesameamountof time.Greenbeans took too long tobecome tender.Wescrappedcauliflowerbecauseitsflavoroverwhelmedthesoup.Zucchinisquashand Swiss chardwon out for texture and their similar cooking times. Cannedbeans disintegrated in the soup, so we used dried white beans. We startedcookingthebeansinthesoupalongwithsomesoftenedcarrotsandonions,thenaddedthesquashandchardandpastatowardtheendofcookingsotheywouldbeperfectlytender.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES6TO8

We recommend using great Northern or cannellini beans here. Serve theminestronewithgratedParmesancheese.

1

8 cupschickenbroth

3 cupswater

2cupsfreshbasilleaves,chopped


¼


2mediumzucchini,quarteredlengthwise,seeded,andsliced¼inchthick

8ouncesSwisschard,stemmedandchopped

½ cupsmalldriedpasta,suchasditalini,orzo,orsmallelbows

Saltandpepper

1.Bringbeansandenoughwatertocoverby1inchtoboilinmediumsaucepanover high heat. Reduce heat to low and simmer, covered, until beans are justbeginningtosoften,about20minutes.Drainbeansandtransfertoslowcooker.

2. Heat 3 tablespoons oil inDutch oven overmedium heat until shimmering.Addonionsandcarrotsandcookuntilsoftened,about5minutes.Stir ingarlicandcookuntilfragrant,about30seconds.Addtomatoesandtheirjuiceandcookuntil pan is nearly dry, 8 to 12 minutes. Stir in broth, water, ½ cup basil,oregano,andpepperflakesandbringtoboil;transfertoslowcooker.Coverandcookuntilbeansaretender,6to7hoursonlowor5to6hoursonhigh.

3. Stir zucchini, Swiss chard, and pasta into slow cooker and cook on high,covered,untilpastaistender,20to30minutes.Stirinremaining1½cupsbasilandremaining3tablespoonsoil.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotasteandserve.

TOMAKEAHEAD:Soupcanbemadethroughstep2andrefrigeratedforupto 2 days. To finish, bring to boil inDutch oven. Stir in zucchini, chard, andpasta;reduceheattolow;andsimmeruntilpastaistender,about10minutes.

TIMINGISEVERYTHING

First theonions, carrots, and tomatoesgo into the slow cookerwith thebroth to createa rich,long-simmered backbone of flavor. Thenwe add the quick-cooking zucchini, Swiss chard, andpastatowardtheendsotheydon’tovercook.

HEADSTARTSautéedvegetablesandcannedwholetomatoesseasonthebroth.

LASTMINUTEThemoredelicatevegetablesareaddedwiththepastaneartheendofcooking.

SLOW-COOKERITALIANSUNDAYGRAVY


1 poundsweetItaliansausage

1 poundhotItaliansausage

2onions,chopped


Slow-CookerItalianSundayGravyWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSWelovetheflavorandheartinessofSunday

gravy,butnotthelaundrylistofingredientsorhoursofmonitoringthestovetop.Forastreamlinedrecipe,weturnedtoourslowcookerandnarrowedthemeatselection down to three: flank steak, formeaty flavor; country-style spareribs,for tender, fall-off-the-bonemeat;andsausage, for itsspicy,sweetkick.Usingthe flavorful drippings left behind from browning the sausage to sauté ouraromatics infused the whole dish with flavor. And a combination of draineddiced tomatoes, canned tomato sauce, and tomato paste ensured a rich, thicksauce.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES8TO10

Mostsausagehasenoughseasoningtomakeextrasaltunnecessary.Thisrecipemakesenoughtosauce2poundsofpasta.Welikerigatoni,ziti,orpennewiththissauce.

2 teaspoonsdriedoregano

1(6-ounce)cantomatopaste

½

cupdryredwine

1(28-ounce)candicedtomatoes,drained


2poundsbone-incountry-styleporkspareribs,trimmed

1(1½-pound)flanksteak,trimmed


Pepper

1.HeatoilinDutchovenovermedium-highheatuntiljustsmoking.Addsweetsausageandcookuntilwellbrownedandfatbeginstorender,about8minutes.Using slotted spoon, transfer sausage to paper towel–lined plate to drain, thenplaceinslowcooker.Repeatwithhotsausage;transfertoslowcooker.

2.Cookonions in rendered fat overmediumheat untilwell browned, about 6minutes.Stiringarlicandoreganoandcookuntilfragrant,about1minute.Addtomatopasteandcookuntilitbeginstobrown,about5minutes.Stirinwineandsimmer, scraping up browned bits, until wine is slightly reduced, about 3minutes.Transfertoslowcooker.Stirindicedtomatoesandtomatosauce.

3.Submergespareribsandsteakinsauceinslowcooker.Coverandcookuntilmeatistender,8to10hoursonlowor4to5hoursonhigh.

4. About 30minutes before serving, remove ribs, steak, and sausages and setaside until cool enough to handle. Shred ribs and steak into small pieces,discardingexcessfatandbones;slicesausagesinhalfcrosswise.Skimfatfromsurfaceof sauce, thenstir sausagesandshreddedmeatback into sauce.Stir inbasilandseasonwithpeppertotaste.Serve.(Gravycanberefrigeratedforupto3days.)TOMAKEAHEAD:Slow-CookerItalianSundayGravycanbemadeinadvancethroughstep2.Afterstirringindicedtomatoesandtomatosauce,addbrowned sausages and simmer over medium-low heat until cooked through,about12minutes.Refrigeratesausageandsauceinairtightcontainerforupto2days.Tocookgravy,warmsauceandsausagestogetherovermediumheatuntilheatedthrough;transfertoslowcooker.Proceedwithstep3.

THEMEATMATTERS

For our easySlow-Cooker ItalianSundayGravy,we narrowed down themeat to the followingcombination,whichoffersthebesttasteandtexture.

ITALIANSAUSAGESBrowningthesausagesinadvancehelpsbuilddeepflavor.

FLANKSTEAKThisleancutaddsbeefyflavorwithouttoomuchgrease.

COUNTRY-STYLESPARERIBSThesemeatyribsbecomefall-aparttenderinaslowcooker.

MEATBALLSANDMARINARA

ONIONMIXTURE

¼

cupoliveoil

3onions,choppedfine



¾

MeatballsandMarinara WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Meatballs and marinara sauce are the

epitomeofcomfortfood,exceptwhenyou’rethecook.Fryingthemeatballscanbemessyandtakeagoodchunkoftimewhenworkinginbatches.Foraneasiermethod,weturnedtotheovenandroastedourmeatballsatahightemperature,which ensured they developed a nice, browned crust. To keep our meatballsmoistandtender,weaddedapanade(apasteofmilkandbread).Inadditiontogroundbeef,usingItaliansausagefortheporkgavethemeatballsaflavorboost,asdidsimmeringtheminthesauceafterbaking.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES8

Tokeeptherecipeeasyandstreamlined,themeatballsandsaucestartwiththesameonionmixture.Thisrecipemakesenoughtosauce2poundsofpasta.


MARINARA


1 cupdryredwine

1 cupwater

4(28-ounce)canscrushedtomatoes

1ounceParmesancheese,grated(½cup)

¼

cupchoppedfreshbasil

Salt

1–2

teaspoonssugar

MEATBALLS

4slicesheartywhitesandwichbread,tornintopieces

¾

cupmilk

8ouncessweetItaliansausage,casingsremoved

2ouncesParmesancheese,grated(1cup)

½


2 largeeggs


1½

teaspoonssalt

2½ pounds80percentleangroundchuck

1.FORTHEONIONMIXTURE:Heatoil inDutchovenovermedium-highheatuntilshimmering.Cookonionsuntilgolden,10to15minutes.Addgarlic,oregano,andpepperflakesandcookuntil fragrant,about30seconds.Transferhalfofonionmixturetolargebowlandsetaside.

2.FORTHEMARINARA:Add tomatopaste to remainingonionmixture inpot and cook until fragrant, about 1minute.Addwine and cook until slightlythickened,about2minutes.Stirinwaterandtomatoesandsimmeroverlowheatuntilsauceisnolongerwatery,45minutesto1hour.StirinParmesanandbasilandseasonwithsaltandsugartotaste.

3. FOR THEMEATBALLS: Meanwhile, adjust oven rack to upper-middleposition and heat oven to 475 degrees. Add bread and milk to bowl withreservedonionmixtureandmashtogetheruntilsmooth.Addsausage,Parmesan,parsley,eggs,garlic,andsalttobowlandmashtocombine.Addbeefandkneadwith hands until well combined. Lightly shape mixture into 2½-inch roundmeatballs (about 16meatballs total), place on rimmed baking sheet, and bakeuntilwellbrowned,about20minutes.

4. Transfer meatballs to pot with sauce and simmer for 15 minutes. Serve.(Meatballsandmarinaracanbefrozenforupto1month.)

WELL-SEASONEDMEATBALLSWITHOUTTHEMESS

We bypassed the messy frying step and baked our meatballs in a super-hot oven instead toensure a nicely brown crust. Simmering themeatballs in the sauce briefly allows the sauce toseasonthemeat,andviceversa.

1.Bakemeatballsinveryhotoventoensurebrownedcrust.

2.Simmermeatballsinsaucefor15minutesbeforeservingforflavorfulsauceandmeatballs.

SLOW-COOKERMEATBALLSANDMARINARA

ONIONMIXTURE


2onions,choppedfine




Slow-CookerMeatballsandMarinaraWHYTHISRECIPEWORKS To infuse our slow-cookermeatballs and

marinara saucewithdepthof flavor,weused lotsofonion,garlic, and tomatopasteandsautéedthembeforeaddingthemtotheslowcooker.Microwavingthemeatballsbeforeaddingthemtotheslowcookerrenderedjustenoughfat(whichwediscarded)toensurethesaucewouldn’tbegreasy.Tobindandmoistenthemeatballs, we traded in the usual panade (a paste of milk and bread), whichcaused them to break apart in the slow cooker, for cream and shreddedmozzarellacheese.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES6

Microwave themeatballs on a largeplateor in a casseroledish to contain therenderingfat.Thisrecipemakesenoughtosauce1½poundsofpasta.

½


¼

teaspoonsalt

MARINARA

½

cupredwine


MEATBALLS

4ouncesItaliansausage,casingsremoved

2ouncesmozzarellacheese,shredded(½cup)


2 largeeggs


¾

teaspoonsalt

1¼ pounds85percentleangroundbeef



2 tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshbasil

Salt

1.FORTHEONIONMIXTURE:Heatoil inDutchovenovermedium-highheatuntilshimmering.Addonions,tomatopaste,garlic,oregano,pepperflakes,and salt and cook until softened and lightly browned, about 8 to 10minutes.Transferhalfofonionmixturetolargebowlandsetaside.

2.FORTHEMARINARA:Addwine toremainingonionmixture inpotandcookuntilslightlythickened,about2minutes.Stirintomatoes,thentransfertoslowcooker.

3.FORTHEMEATBALLS:Addsausage,mozzarella,Parmesan,eggs,garlic,and salt to bowlwith reserved onionmixture.Mashwith potatomasher untilsmooth.Addbeefandcreamtobowlandkneadwithhandsuntilwellcombined.Lightlyshapemixture into2-inchroundmeatballs(about12total).Microwavemeatballsonlargeplateuntilfatrendersandmeatballsarefirm,4to7minutes.Nestlemeatballsintoslowcooker,discardingrenderedfat.Coverandcookuntilmeatballsaretenderandsauceisslightlythickened,4to5hoursonlow.

4.Letmeatballsandsaucesettlefor5minutes, thenskimfatfromsurfaceandstirinParmesanandbasil.Seasonwithsalttotaste.Serve.

TOMAKE AHEAD: Slow-Cooker Meatballs andMarinara can be made inadvancethroughshapingmeatballsinstep3.Uncookedmeatballsandsaucecanberefrigeratedinseparateairtightcontainersforupto24hours.Whenreadytocook,addsaucetoslowcookerandproceedwithmicrowavingmeatballsinstep3.

MICROWAVINGMEATBALLS

Insteadofbrowningthemeatballsonthestovetoporintheoven,wemicrowavedthem.Justfiveminutes isenough toset theexteriorandkeep them from fallingapart in theslowcooker.Theprecookingalsorenderedsomeofthefat,minimizingthegreaseinourmarinarasauce.

SLOW-COOKERBAKEDZITI


1poundhotorsweetItaliansausage,casingsremoved

1onion,chopped


½


½

teaspoonsalt

Slow-CookerBakedZitiWHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Pasta in a slow cooker? You bet. But

achievingwell-cooked pasta andmelty cheese in the slow cooker takes somestrategy.Borrowinga technique fromrisottowas thekey toperfectpasta—westirred the rawpasta into the browned sausage andonionmixture, coating thestarch infatandpreventing thepasta frombloating in theslowcooker.Togetcheese thatwas evenlymelted, we added it after cooking and let it sit in theresidualwarmthoftheturned-offslow-cooker.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES6

OurfavoritecrushedtomatoesareTuttorossoCrushedTomatoesinThickPureewithBasil.

½

teaspoonpepper

8ounces(2½cups)ziti

1(28-ounce)cancrushedtomatoes


8ounces(1cup)whole-milkricottacheese

4ouncesmozzarellacheese,shredded(1cup)

2 tablespoonsthinlyslicedfreshbasil

1.Makealuminumfoilcollarforslowcookerbyfolding2(18-inch-long)piecesoffoiltomake2(18by4-inch)strips.Lineperimeterofslowcookerwithfoilstripsandspraywithvegetableoilspray.

2. Heat oil in Dutch oven over medium-high heat until just smoking. Cooksausage,breakinguppieceswithspoon,untilwellbrowned,6to8minutes.Addonionandcookuntil lightlybrowned,about5minutes.Stir ingarlic,oregano,salt,andpepperandcookuntilfragrant,about1minute.

3. Reduce heat to medium-low. Add ziti and cook, stirring constantly, untiledges of pasta become translucent, about 4minutes. Off heat, stir in crushedtomatoesand tomatosauce, scrapingupanybrownedbits.Transfermixture toprepared slow cooker. Cover and cook on low until pasta is tender, about 3hours.

4.Usingtongs,removefoilcollarfromslowcooker.Dollopricottaoverzitiandsprinklewithmozzarella.Cover and let sit for 20minutes to let cheesesmelt.Garnishwithbasilandserve.

KEYSTEPSTOGREATSLOW-COOKER“BAKED”ZITI

1.Topreventburning,foldaluminumfoilintotwostripsandusethemtolinetheperimeteroftheslowcooker.

2.Afterhours in theslowcooker,pasta turnsslimyandbloated.Toavoid that,we firstsauté itwiththesausageandonion.

SKILLETCHICKENPARMESAN

2slicesheartywhitesandwichbread,tornintolargepieces


2½ ouncesParmesancheese,grated(1¼cups)¼

cupchoppedfreshbasil

1(28-ounce)cancrushedtomatoes


SkilletChickenParmesanWHYTHISRECIPEWORKS To streamline chicken Parmesan and still

keep its flavors and textures intact, we browned boneless, skinless chickenbreasts,whichwehadslicedintocutlets,inanonstickpan,thenmadeasimpletomatosauceandsimmeredthechickenrightinthesaucesoitcouldabsorbtheflavors.For the cheesy layer,we supplemented the traditionalmozzarellawithprovolone (preferably the sharp variety) for a much richer flavor. And ratherthanbreadingthechicken,wesprinkledthebreadcrumbs,whichwetoastedandseasonedwithParmesanandbasil, over the finisheddish so they stayedultra-crisp.Seethesidebarsthatfollowtherecipe.

SERVES4

Weliketheassertiveflavorofsharpprovolonehere,butmildprovoloneworkswell,too.

Saltandpepper


½ cupall-purposeflour


3ouncesmozzarellacheese,shredded(¾cup)

3ouncesprovolonecheese,shredded(¾cup)

1.Pulsebreadinfoodprocessortocoarsecrumbs,about10pulses.Toastbreadcrumbsin12-inchnonstickskilletovermedium-highheatuntilbrowned,about5minutes,andtransfertobowl.Tosswith1tablespoonoliveoil,¼cupParmesan,andhalfofbasil.Inseparatebowl,combineremaining2tablespoonsoliveoil,¼cupParmesan,remainingbasil,tomatoes,garlic,andsaltandpeppertotaste.

2.Usingsharpknife,andholdingchickensecurely,sliceeachbreasthorizontallyinto2cutletsofeventhickness.Placeflourinshallowdish.Seasonchickenwithsalt and pepper and dredge in flour.Heat 2 tablespoons vegetable oil in now-emptyskilletovermedium-highheatuntilshimmering.Add4cutletsandcookuntilgoldenbrownonbothsides,about5minutes.Transfertoplateandrepeatwithremainingcutletsandremaining1tablespoonvegetableoil.

3. Reduce heat tomedium-low and add tomatomixture to now-empty skillet.Returncutletstopaninevenlayer,pressingdowntocoverwithsauce.Sprinklemozzarella,provolone,andremaining¾cupParmesanoverchicken.Coverandcookuntilcheeseismelted,about5minutes.Sprinklewithbread-crumbmixtureandserve.

MAKINGCUTLETS

Tomake chicken cutlets from chicken breasts, use your hand to hold chicken breast in place,keepingyourfingersstraightandparalleltobreast.Usingsharpchef’sknife,startatthickestpartofbreastandsliceitinhalfhorizontally,producing2evencutlets.

SHREDDINGSEMISOFTCHEESE

Semisoft cheeses likemozzarellacanbemessy tograte.Tokeep theholesof thegrater fromclogging, lightly coat that side of the box grater with vegetable oil spray before shredding thecheese.

SKILLETLASAGNA

1(28-ounce)candicedtomatoes

Water

1 tablespoonoliveoil

1onion,choppedfine

Saltandpepper


SkilletLasagnaWHYTHIS RECIPEWORKS To get our lasagna fix without spending

hoursinthekitchen,wemadetheentiredish,fromstart tofinish, ina12-inchskillet.Aftersautéingaromatics,webrownedourmeatinthepan,thenaddedthenoodles and sauce. Meatloaf mix (a blend of ground beef, pork, and veal)contributed deep, meaty flavor. Canned diced tomatoes and tomato sauce,thinnedwithwater,providedampleliquidtocookournoodlesandthickenedtojust the right consistency after abrief simmer.For a rich, creamy topping,wedroppedbigdollopsof ricottacheeseover thenoodlesandcovered thepansothey’dmelt.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES4TO6

A12-inchnonstickskilletwithatight-fittinglidworksbestforthisrecipe.

⅛


1 poundmeatloafmix

10curly-edgedlasagnanoodles,brokeninto2-inchlengths


1ounceParmesancheese,grated(½cup),plus2tablespoons,grated

8ounces(1cup)whole-milkorpart-skimricottacheese


1. Place tomatoes in 4-cup liquid measuring cup. Add water until mixturemeasures4cups.

2.Heatoilin12-inchnonstickskilletovermediumheatuntilshimmering.Addonion and ½ teaspoon salt and cook until onion begins to brown, about 5minutes. Stir in garlic and pepper flakes and cook until fragrant, about 30seconds.Addmeatandcook,breakingupmeat intosmallpieceswithwoodenspoon,untilitisnolongerpink,about4minutes.

3.Scatterpastaovermeatbutdonotstir.Pourtomatomixtureandtomatosauceoverpasta,cover,andbringtosimmer.Reduceheattomedium-lowandsimmer,stirringoccasionally,untilpastaistender,about20minutes.

4. Off heat, stir in½ cup Parmesan and seasonwith salt and pepper to taste.Dollopheapingtablespoonsofricottaovertop,cover,andletsitfor5minutes.Sprinklewithbasilandremaining2tablespoonsParmesan.Serve.

SKILLETLASAGNAWITHSAUSAGEANDREDPEPPERSubstitute1poundItaliansausage,casingsremoved, formeatloafmix.Add1choppedredbellpeppertoskilletwithonion.

SECRETSTOSKILLETLASAGNA

1.Sautéonion,garlic,andmeatinskillet,thenscatterbrokenlasagnanoodlesovermeat.

2.Pourdiced tomatoesand tomato sauceovernoodles, cover, and cookuntil pasta is tender,about20minutes.

3.StirinParmesananddollopwithricotta,thencoverskilletandletcheesesoftenoffheat.

SPINACHANDTOMATOLASAGNA

30 ouncesfrozenchoppedspinach


1onion,choppedfine


⅛


SpinachandTomatoLasagnaWHYTHISRECIPEWORKS Tomake a spinach lasagnaworthy of its

name,weincreasedtheamountofspinach.Frozenspinachtastedjustasgoodasfreshandcutdownonkitchentime.Forthemosteventexture,weusedthefoodprocessortochopthespinach.Forextraspinachflavorweincludedsomeofthedrainedspinachliquid(wecombineditwiththericottainthefoodprocessor)butnot enough tomake the lasagnawatery. To keep the spinach flavor front andcenter, we nixed the traditional creamy béchamel in favor of a fresh, herb-fleckedtomatosaucebutstilllayeredinplentyofmozzarellaandParmesanforrichness.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES8TO10

Our favorite brand of no-boil lasagna noodles is Barilla. You can thaw thespinach overnight in the refrigerator instead ofmicrowaving it, but be sure towarmthespinachliquidtohelpsmooththericotta.

2 (28-ounce)canscrushedtomatoes

Saltandpepper


1½ pounds(3cups)whole-milkorpart-skimricottacheese


2 largeeggs

12no-boillasagnanoodles

12ounceswhole-milkmozzarellacheese,shredded(3cups)

1.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento375degrees.Microwavespinach in covered large bowl until completely thawed, about 15 minutes,stirringhalfwaythroughcooking.Squeezespinachdry,reserving⅓cupliquid.Pulsespinachinfoodprocessoruntilground,8to10pulses,scrapingdownbowlevery fewpulses.Wipeout large bowlwith paper towels.Transfer spinach tonow-emptybowl;setaside.

2.Heatoilinlargesaucepanovermediumheatuntilshimmering.Addonionandcookuntilsoftened,about5minutes.Stir ingarlicandpepperflakesandcookuntil fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add tomatoes, ½ cup processed spinach, 1teaspoonsalt,and½teaspoonpepperandcookuntilslightlythickened,about10minutes.Offheat,stirin3tablespoonsbasil;setaside.

3. Process ricotta and reserved spinach liquid in food processor until smooth,about 30 seconds. Add Parmesan, remaining 3 tablespoons basil, eggs, 1½teaspoons salt, and½ teaspoonpepperandprocessuntil combined.Stir ricottamixtureintoremainingprocessedspinach.

4.Coverbottomof13by9-inchbakingdishwith1¼cups sauce.Topwith3noodles and spread one-third of ricottamixture evenly over noodles. Sprinklewith⅔cupmozzarellaandcoverwith1¼cupssauce.Repeattwice,beginningwithnoodlesandendingwithsauce.Topwithremaining3noodles, remainingsauce,andremaining1cupmozzarella.

5.Cover pan tightlywith aluminum foil sprayedwith vegetable oil spray andbakeuntilbubblingaroundedges,about40minutes.Discardfoilandcontinuetobake until cheese is melted, about 10 minutes. Let cool on wire rack for 30minutes.Serve.

KEYSTOSPINACHFLAVOR

Forlasagnathatactuallytasteslikespinach,wetookathree-prongedapproach.

• Increasing theamountofspinach to triple theamountcalled for inmost recipesguaranteed ithadadistinctpresence.

•Addingsomeofthespinachwater,fromsqueezingthespinachdrytopreventasoggylasagna,tothericottacheeseensuredacreamy,spinach-flavoredfilling.

•Choppingthespinachinthefoodprocessorproducedafine,eventexturethatdistributednicelyinboththecheesefillingandthesauce.

BAKEDMANICOTTIWITHMEATSAUCE

MEATSAUCE

1onion,chopped

6 ouncesthinlysliceddelipepperoni



BakedManicottiwithMeatSauceWHYTHIS RECIPEWORKS For fuss-free but flavorful manicotti, we

started by substituting no-boil lasagna noodles for themanicotti tubes.Brieflysoakingtheminhotwatermadethempliableandeasytorollup.Usingthefoodprocessortobreakdownthegroundbeefalloweditsflavortopermeatethesaucequicklysoitneededjustashortsimmer.Forevenmoremeatyflavor,weaddeda popular pizza topping—pepperoni—which gave the sauce a spicy backbone.To liven up the filling,we included assertive provolone, plus a portion of theprocessedgroundbeefandpepperoni;asingleegghelpedtobinditalltogether.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES6TO8

You will need 16 no-boil lasagna noodles for this recipe. The test kitchen’spreferred brand, Barilla, comes 16 noodles to a box, but other brands containonly12.Itisimportanttoletthedishcoolfor15minutesafterbaking.


¼



Saltandpepper

MANICOTTI

1½ pounds(3cups)ricottacheese

10ouncesmozzarellacheese,shredded(2½cups)

6ouncesprovolonecheese,shredded(1½cups)


¼

cupfinelychoppedfreshbasil

½

teaspoonsalt

½

teaspoonpepper

16no-boillasagnanoodles

1.FORTHEMEATSAUCE:Adjustovenracktoupper-middlepositionandheat oven to 375 degrees. Pulse onion and pepperoni in food processor untilcoarsely ground, about 10 pulses. Add beef and pulse until thoroughlycombined,5to8pulses.

2.Transfermixturetolargesaucepanandcookovermediumheat,breakingupmixturewithwoodenspoon,untilnolongerpink,about5minutes.Usingslottedspoon,transfer1cupmeatmixturetopapertowel–linedplateandreserve.Addgarlic, tomato paste, and pepper flakes to pot and cookuntil fragrant, about 1minute.Stir in tomatoesandsimmeruntilsauce isslightly thickened,about20minutes.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.(Meatsaucecanberefrigeratedforupto3days.)3.FORTHEMANICOTTI:Combinericotta,2cupsmozzarella,1 cup provolone, egg, basil, salt, pepper, and reserved meat mixture in largebowl.Pour1inchboilingwaterinto13by9-inchbakingdishandslipnoodlesinto water, one at a time. Let noodles soak until pliable, about 5 minutes,separatingnoodleswith tipofknife toprevent sticking.Removenoodles fromwaterandplace insingle layeroncleandish towels;discardwateranddryoffbakingdish.

4.Spreadhalfofmeatsauceoverbottomofbakingdish.Spread¼cupricottamixtureevenlyoverbottomofeachnoodle.Rollnoodlesuparoundfillingandlay them seam side down in baking dish. Spread remaining sauce over top tocover pasta completely. Cover dish tightlywith aluminum foil and bake untilbubbling around edges, about 40 minutes. Remove foil and sprinkle withremaining½cupmozzarellaand½cupprovolone.Bakeuntilcheeseismelted,about5minutes.Letcoolfor15minutes.Serve.

MANICOTTIMADEEASY

Manicottishellsarehardtofillwithouttearing.Foreasy-to-fillmanicotti,wefoundabettersolutioninno-boillasagnanoodles.

1.Aftersoakingno-boillasagnanoodlesbrieflyinhotwater,spreadfillingacrossbottomofeachandrollintotube.

2.Arrangerolledmanicottiseamsidedownoversauceinbakingdish.

GRANDMAPIZZA

DOUGH


¾

cupwater

1½ cups(8¼ounces)breadflour2¼ teaspoonsinstantorrapid-riseyeast

1 teaspoonsugar

¾

teaspoonsalt

GrandmaPizzaWHY THIS RECIPEWORKS Grandma pizza is a thin-crust pan pizza

toppedwithamodestamountofcheese, thenwithchunksof tomatoes.To re-createthisLongIslandspecialty,breadflourandlengthykneadinggaveusthechewycrustwewanted,butthedoughwasdifficulttostretchthin.Proofingthedoughonthesamesheetpanthatweusedtobakethepizzaletitstretchonitsownasitproofed.Forafresh,easytomatotoppingthatwouldn’tmakeourcrustsoggy,wetosseddraineddicedtomatoeswithsalt,oliveoil,garlic,andoregano.Baking the pizza on the lowest rack then cooling it on a wire rack perfectlycrispedthebottomcrust.Seethesidebarsthatfollowtherecipe.

SERVES4

If the dough snaps backwhenyou press it to the corners of the baking sheet,coverit,letitrestfor10minutes,andtryagain.

TOPPING

1(28-ounce)candicedtomatoes




¼

teaspoonsalt

8ouncesmozzarellacheese,shredded(2cups)

¼



1. FOR THE DOUGH: Coat rimmed baking sheet with 2 tablespoons oil.Combinewaterand remaining1 tablespoonoil in1-cup liquidmeasuringcup.Using standmixer fittedwithdoughhook,mix flour,yeast, sugar, and saltonlow speeduntil combined.Withmixer running, slowly addwatermixture andmixuntildoughcomestogether,about1minute.Increasespeedtomedium-lowandmixuntil dough is smooth and comes away fromsidesof bowl, about 10minutes.

2.Transferdoughtogreasedbakingsheetandturntocoat.Stretchdoughto10by6-inchrectangle.Coverlooselywithplasticwrapandletriseinwarmplaceuntil doubled in size, 1 to 1½ hours. Stretch dough to corners of pan, coverlooselywith plastic, and let rise inwarmplace until slightly puffed, about 45minutes.Meanwhile, adjustoven rack to lowestpositionandheatoven to500degrees.

3.FORTHETOPPING:Placetomatoesincolanderanddrainwell.Combinedrainedtomatoes,oil,garlic,oregano,andsaltinbowl.CombinemozzarellaandParmesaninsecondbowl.Sprinklecheesemixtureoverdough,leaving½-inchborderaroundedges.Topwithtomatomixtureandbakeuntilwellbrownedandbubbling,about15minutes.Slidepizzaontowirerack,sprinklewithbasil,andletcoolfor5minutes.Serve.

EASYRISE

Ourmethod lets thedoughproof righton thesheet.Spreaddoughonoiledbakingsheet, thencoverwithplasticwrapandsetitasidetorise.

WHEREWASGRANDMAPIZZABORN?

In a 2003 piece in the Long Island newspaperNewsday, writer EricaMarcustraced grandma pizza’s origins to Umberto’s Pizzeria in New Hyde Park.AccordingtoMarcus, in theearly1970sproprietorUmbertoCorteowouldaskhispizzamantocreateasimplepizzaliketheonehismotherusedtomakeinItaly.TheCorteosopenedasecondpizzeria,KingUmberto’s,innearbyElmont.Itwas later bought by two formerUmberto’s pizzamakers,who built a best-selling itemoutof their formerboss’sfavorite lunch,naming itgrandmapizzasometime in the late1980s.Within10years,otherLong Islandpizzeriaswereofferingthepie,andaphenomenonwasborn.

ITALIANPOTROAST

1(3½-to4-pound)bonelessbeefchuck-eyeroast,trimmed,tiedat1-inchintervals

Saltandpepper


1onion,chopped

1celeryrib,minced

poundcreminiorwhitemushrooms,trimmedandquartered

ItalianPotRoastWHYTHISRECIPEWORKS The bolder cousin of American-style pot

roast, ItalianPotRoast trades the potatoes, carrots, and gravy formushrooms,onion,andathicksaucebasedontomatoes,redwine,garlic,andherbs.Forourversion, we startedwith a chuck-eye roast for its beefy flavor and ample fat.Canned diced tomatoes, tomato sauce, and tomato paste gave us a thick, richsauce; a double dose of red wine added depth and brightness. Simmering awhole head of garlicwith our roast ensured themeat and saucewere infusedwithmellowgarlicflavor.Seethesidebarsthatfollowtherecipe.

SERVES4TO6

Startcheckingtheroastfordonenessaftertwohours;ifthereisalittleresistancewhenproddedwithafork,it’sdone.Light,sweeterredwines,suchasaMerlotorBeaujolais,workespeciallywellwiththisrecipe.

1



½

cupcannedtomatosauce

½

cupwater

1 cupredwine

2 teaspoonssugar

1largegarlichead,outerpaperyskinsremoved,halved

1 sprigfreshthyme

1 sprigfreshrosemary

1.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento300degrees.Patroastdrywithpapertowelsandseasonwithsaltandpepper.

2. Heat oil in Dutch oven over medium-high heat until just smoking. Brownroastonallsides,8to12minutes.Transferroasttolargeplate.Reduceheattomedium, add onion, celery, mushrooms, and tomato paste and cook untilvegetablesbegintosoften,about8minutes.Adddicedtomatoes,tomatosauce,water,½cupwine,sugar,garlic,andthyme.Addroast,withaccumulatedjuices,topotandbringtosimmerovermedium-highheat.Placepieceofaluminumfoiloverpot,coverwithlid,andtransferpottooven.

3.Cookuntilroastisjustfork-tender,2½to3½hours,turningroastafter1hour.Removelidandfoilandletroastrestfor30minutes,skimmingfatfromsurfaceofliquidafter20minutes.Transferroasttocarvingboardandtentwithfoil.

4.Remove and reserve garlic head and skim remaining fat.Add remaining½cup wine to pot, bring to boil over medium-high heat, and cook until saucebeginstothicken,about12minutes.Meanwhile,carefullysqueezegarlicclovesfrom their skins and mash into paste. Add rosemary to pot and simmer untilfragrant, about 2minutes.Remove rosemary and thyme sprigs, stir inmashedgarlic,andseasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.

5.Removetwinefromroastandslicemeatagainstgraininto½-inch-thickslicesorpullapart intolargepieces.Transfermeat toservingplatterandpour¾cupsauceovermeat.Serve,passingremainingsauceseparately.

GETTINGTHEGARLICRIGHT

Here’showwetonedownthegarlicinourItalianPotRoastsoitoffersmellow,notoverpowering,flavor.

1.Afterslicingwholeheadofgarlicinhalf,addittopottosimmerwithroast.

2.Once roast isdone,squeezegarliccloves from theirskinsandmashgarlicwith fork to formpaste.Stirgarlicpastebackintosauce.

FITTOBETIED

Atiedroastwillcookevenlyandwon’tfallapartduringthelongcookingtime.Ifyourroastdoesn’tcometied,simplytiepiecesofkitchentwinearounditat1-inchintervals.

PORKCHOPSWITHVINEGARPEPPERS

3 tablespoonssugar

Saltandpepper

4(8-to10-ounce)bone-inporkribchops,1inchthick,trimmed

⅓ cupall-purposeflour


1onion,halvedandslicedthin

garliccloves,lightlycrushedandpeeled

PorkChopswithVinegarPeppersWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSChoosingtherightporkchopandtheright

kindofpepperswasessentialtogettingthisdishright.Wedecidedonthick-cut,bone-inribchops,whichwebrinedbrieflytoensureseasonedandmoistmeat.Jarred sweetvinegarpeppersheldup tobraising, andhadamild tang thatweliked.Togivelong-cookedflavortoourquick-cookedbraisingsauce,weaddedasecretingredient—anchovyfillets—whichlentsavorydepthbutdidnotimpartany fishy flavor.We thickened the sauce in twoways: by flouring the chops(which also aidedbrowning) andby reducing the sauce slightly after the porkwasdone.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES4

OurfavoritechickenbrothisSwansonChickenStock.

8

2anchovyfillets,rinsed,patteddry,andminced

2cupsthinlyslicedsweetgreenvinegarpeppers

1 sprigfreshrosemary

1 cupchickenbroth

½

cupredwinevinegar


1. Dissolve sugar and 3 tablespoons salt in 1½ quarts cold water in largecontainer.Addchops,cover,andrefrigeratefor30minutesorupto1hour.

2. Place flour in shallow dish. Remove chops from brine. Pat chops drywithpaper towels and seasonwith pepper.Workingwith 1 chop at a time, dredgebothsides in flour, shakingoffexcess.Heat1 tablespoonoil in12-inchskilletover medium-high heat until just smoking. Add chops and cook until wellbrownedonfirstside,5to7minutes.Flipchopsandcookonsecondsidefor1minute;transfertoplate,brownedsideup.

3.Reduceheattomediumandaddremaining1tablespoonoil,onion,garlic,andanchoviestonow-emptyskillet.Cook,stirringfrequently,untilonionissoftenedand golden brown, 6 to 8minutes.Add peppers and rosemary and cook untilpeppersbegintocaramelize,about5minutes.Addbrothandvinegarandbringtoboil.

4.Arrange chops, browned side up, in skillet and add any accumulated juicesfrom plate. Reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer until chops register 145degrees,6to10minutes.Transferchopstoservingplatterandtentlooselywithaluminumfoil.

5.Increaseheattohighandboilsauceuntilslightlythickened,about3minutes.Off heat, stir in butter and season with salt and pepper to taste. Stir anyaccumulated juices fromplatter into sauce.Discard rosemary and spoon sauceoverchops.Serve.

FINISHINGAPANSAUCEWITHBUTTER

Addbuttertopansaucesoffheattopreventthebutterfromseparatingandleavinganoilslickontop.Buttergivesoursaucerichnessandbody.

CHAPTER 7: THE STATE OFGRILLING

HuliHuliChicken

CornellBarbecuedChicken

AlabamaBarbecuedChicken

ClassicBarbecuedChicken

GrilledButterfliedLemonChicken

GrilledChickenWings

GrilledChickenLegQuarters

BarbecuedPulledChicken

CaliforniaBarbecuedTri-Tip

ShreddedBarbecuedBeef

JucyLucyBurgers

GreenChileCheeseburgers

Chicago-StyleBarbecuedRibs

TexasBarbecuedBeefRibs

Lexington-StylePulledPork

SouthCarolinaPulledPork

SmokedDouble-ThickPorkChops

GrilledThin-CutPorkChops

St.LouisBBQPorkSteaks

Chinese-StyleGlazedPorkTenderloin

Chinese-StyleBarbecuedSpareribs

BarbecuedCountry-StyleRibs

SouthDakotaCorncob-SmokedRibs

GrilledMustard-GlazedPorkLoin

Wood-GrilledSalmon

GrilledJalapeñoandLimeShrimpSkewers

GrilledCornontheCob

CaliforniaBarbecuedBeans

GrilledPotatoHoboPacks

GrilledCaesarSalad

TangyAppleCabbageSlaw

MemphisChoppedColeslaw

All-AmericanPotatoSalad

AmishPotatoSalad

RanchPotatoSalad

DillPotatoSalad

TexasPotatoSalad

ThewaywecookoutdoorstodayisduetotwoenterprisingAmericans.ThefirstwasHenryFordoftheFordMotorCompany.IntheearlydaysoftheautomobilebusinesswhenFordmanufacturedtheModelT,thecarwaspartiallybuiltwithwoodenparts.Theassemblyprocessgeneratedalotofwoodscraps.Notonetolet things go towaste, Ford took advantage of a charcoal-makingprocess thathad been around since the 1890s—one in which wood could be burned tocharcoal,mixedwithabinder,and formed intobriquettes.Fordputoneofhisrelativesinchargeofhisnewcharcoalbriquette–makingbusiness.Therelative’sname? E.G. Kingsford, a moniker that went on to become synonymous withbriquettes.

The second American who made an unlikely contribution to the state ofmodern grillingwasGeorge Stephen, ametal worker whoworked forWeberBrothersMetalinChicagointhe1950s.Frustratedwiththelimitedfunctionalityof the flat, open grills of the time, called braziers, he began tinkering andeventuallycreatedthekettlegrill.Stephenwasactuallyworkingonabuoyatthemetal shop when he became inspired by its shape and applied it to his grill

project.The bottomhalf became the base of the grill and the top half the lid.Aftersomeexperimentation,herealizedthatheneededtopunchholesinthelid,toallowoxygentoenterandkeeptheflamesgoing.Thiskettledesignremainsthe standard for charcoal grills today. Of course, years later, gas grills havebecomepopular.Whilegasisundeniablyconvenient,puristsremainloyaltotheauthenticallysmokyflavoroffoodcookedonacharcoalgrill.

Whichever grill you prefer to cook on, join us as we crisscross the UnitedStates to share allmanner of grilling and barbecue recipes and a host of easysidestocompleteyourmeal.Let’sfireupthegrill!

HULIHULICHICKEN

CHICKEN

2(3½-to4-pound)wholechickens

2 quartswater

2 cupssoysauce


garliccloves,minced

HuliHuliChickenWHY THIS RECIPEWORKS Authentic Hawaiian huli huli chicken is

typicallysomethinghomecooksbuyinsteadofmake.Thebirdsarecontinuallybasted with a sticky-sweet glaze and “huli”-ed, which means “turned” inHawaiian. For the teriyaki-like glaze,we developed a versionwith soy sauce,ricevinegar,ginger,garlic,chilisauce,ketchup,brownsugar,andlotsandlotsof pineapple juice.We boiled the sauce down until it was thick, glossy, andsweet.TomimicaHawaiianrotisserie,wespreadthecoalsinasinglelayer.Thedirectheatrenderedthefatandcrispedtheskin,butthechickenwasfarenoughfromthecoalstoavoidburning.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES4TO6

When basting the chickenwith the glaze in step 4, be careful not to drip toomuchofitontothecoalsorflamesorthegrillmayflareup.

6

1 tablespoongratedfreshginger

GLAZE

3(6-ounce)canspineapplejuice

¼

cuppackedlightbrownsugar

¼

cupsoysauce

¼

cupketchup

¼

cupricevinegar



teaspoonschili-garlicsauce

2


1. FOR THE CHICKEN: Using kitchen shears, cut along both sides ofbackbone to remove it.Trimanyexcess fator skinatneck.Flip chickenoverand,usingchef’sknife,cut throughbreastbonetoseparatechickenintohalves.Repeatwithotherchicken.Combinewaterandsoysauceinlargebowl.Heatoilin large saucepan over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add garlic andginger and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir into soy saucemixture.Addchickenandrefrigerate,covered,foratleast1hourorupto8hours.

2. FOR THEGLAZE: Combine pineapple juice, sugar, soy sauce, ketchup,vinegar, garlic, ginger, and chili-garlic sauce in empty saucepan and bring toboil. Reduce heat to medium and simmer until thick and syrupy (you shouldhaveabout1cup),20to25minutes.Usinglargepieceofheavy-dutyaluminumfoil,wrapsoakedchipsinfoilpacketandcutseveralventholesintop.

3A. FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL: Open bottom vent halfway. Light largechimneystarterthree-quartersfilledwithcharcoalbriquettes(4½quarts).Whentopcoalsarepartiallycoveredwithash,pourevenlyovergrill.Placefoilpacketoncoals.Setcookinggrateinplace,cover,andopenlidventopenhalfway.Heatgrilluntilhotandwoodchipsaresmoking,about5minutes.

3B.FORAGASGRILL:Placewoodchippacketdirectlyonprimaryburner.Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot and wood chips aresmoking,about15minutes.Turnallburnerstomedium-low.(Adjustburnersasneeded tomaintaingrill temperatureof350degrees.)4.Cleanandoilcookinggrate.Removechickenfrombrineandpatdrywithpapertowels.Placechickenskinsideupongrill(donotplacechickendirectlyabovefoilpacket).Coverandcookchickenuntilwellbrownedonbottomandthighsregister120degrees,25to30minutes.Flipchickenskinsidedownandcontinuetocook,covered,untilskiniswellbrownedandcrispandthighsregister175degrees,20to25minuteslonger.Transfer chicken to platter, brushwith half of glaze, and let rest for 5minutes.Serve,passingremainingglazeattable.

TOMAKEAHEAD:Bothbrineandglazecanbemadeaheadandrefrigeratedforupto3days.Donotbrinechickenforlongerthan8hoursoritwillbecometoosalty.

HULIHISTORYLESSON

In1955,HawaiianchickenfarmerErnieMorgadoservedsomelocalfarmersbarbecuedchickenshe’dmadewithhismom’shomemade teriyaki-stylesauce.They liked it somuch thatMorgadosoonlaunchedacateringbusinessusingspeciallydesignedbarbecuetroughsthatheldchickenhalvesbetweentwogrates.Whenthechickenswerereadytoturn,theworkerswouldyell“Huli!”(turn, inHawaiian),andall thechickenswouldberotated inonego.MorgadonamedhissauceHuliHuli.

CORNELLBARBECUEDCHICKEN

CHICKEN


¼

cupsalt

3½

cupscidervinegar

CornellBarbecuedChickenWHYTHISRECIPEWORKS Invented in the1940sbyRobertBaker, a

CornellUniversityprofessor,thistangy,crisp-skinnedgrilledchickenrecipehasbeena starattractionat theNewYorkStateFairever since.Grilling twosplitchickens over gentle direct heat worked best here. To crisp the skin withoutburning it, we started the chicken skin side up to render the fat slowly, thenflippedthechickenskinsidedowntobrownuntilcrisp.Thetraditionalpoultryseasoningworkedgreatasarubbuttasteddustyinthesauce,sowereplaceditwithfreshrosemaryandsage.Dijonmustardcontributedevenmoreflavortothesauceandthickeneditperfectly.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES4TO6

Donotbrinethechickenlongerthantwohoursorthevinegarwillturnthemeatmushy.Poultryseasoningisamixofherbsandspicesthatcanbefoundinthesupermarketspiceaisle.

SEASONINGANDSAUCE

1 tablespoongroundpoultryseasoning

Saltandpepper

½

cupcidervinegar


1 tablespoonchoppedfreshsageleaves


½

cupoliveoil

1. FOR THE CHICKEN: Using kitchen shears, cut along both sides ofbackbone to remove it.Trimanyexcess fator skinatneck.Flip chickenoverand,usingchef’sknife,cut throughbreastbonetoseparatechickenintohalves.Repeat with other chicken. In large container, dissolve salt in vinegar and 2quartswater.Submergechickensinbrine,cover,andrefrigeratefor1to2hours.

2. FOR THE SEASONING AND SAUCE: Combine poultry seasoning, 2teaspoonssalt,and2teaspoonspepperinsmallbowl;setaside.Processvinegar,mustard,sage,rosemary,½teaspoonsalt,and½teaspoonpepperinblenderuntilsmooth,about1minute.Withblenderrunning,slowlyaddoiluntilincorporated.Transfervinegarsaucetosmallbowlandreserveforbastingchickeninsteps5and6.

3.Removechickensfrombrine,patdrywithpapertowels,andrubevenlywithpoultry seasoningmixture.Measureout¾cupvinegar sauceand set aside forcooking;reserveremainingsauceforserving.

4A.FORACHARCOALGRILL:Openbottomventcompletely.Lightlargechimneystarterthree-quartersfilledwithcharcoalbriquettes(4½quarts).Whentopcoalsarepartiallycoveredwithash,pourevenlyovergrill.Setcookinggrateinplace,cover,andopenlidventhalfway.Heatgrilluntilhot,about5minutes.

4B.FORAGASGRILL:Turnallburners tohigh,cover,andheatgrilluntilhot, about 15 minutes. Turn all burners to medium-low. (Adjust burners asneededtomaintaingrilltemperaturearound350degrees.)

5.Cleanandoilcookinggrate.Placechickenskinsideupongrillandbrushwith6 tablespoons vinegar sauce for cooking. Cover and cook chicken until wellbrownedonbottomandthighsregister120degrees,25to30minutes,brushingwithmoresauceforcookinghalfwaythroughgrilling.

6. Flip chicken skin side down and brush with remaining sauce for cooking.Cover and continue to cook chicken until skin is golden brown and crisp andbreasts register 160degrees and thighs register 175degrees, 20 to 25minuteslonger.

7.Transferchickentocarvingboardandletrestfor10minutes.Carvechickenandservewithreservedsauce.

THECHICKENMANOFCORNELLUNIVERSITY

Robert Baker (1921–2006) developed the recipe for Cornell chicken while employed atPennsylvaniaStateUniversity,buthisrecipedidn’ttakeoffuntilhehadmovedontotheAnimalSciencesDepartmentatCornellUniversity(hisalmamater)andpublishedit inaschool journal.This vinegary chickenwasn’tDr.Baker’sonly contribution to theculinaryworld:Healsohadahandindevelopingthevacuumpackagingstillusedbymuchofthepoultryindustryandwastheinventorofchickennuggets,turkeyham,andchickenhotdogs.

ALABAMABARBECUEDCHICKEN

SAUCE

¾

cupmayonnaise


2 teaspoonssugar

½

teaspoonpreparedhorseradish

AlabamaBarbecuedChickenWHYTHISRECIPEWORKS ForAlabama-inspired barbecued chicken,

we ditched the tomato and slathered a mayonnaise-based sauce on hickory-smoked chicken. Smoking generally takes hours, but our recipe expedites theprocessby cutting the chickens inhalf andcooking them in themiddleof thegrill,sandwichedbetweenpilesofsmokingcoalstoppedwithhickorychips.Wecoated our chickens with the traditional Alabama mixture of seasonedmayonnaiseandvinegartwotimesduringcookingsothehotchickenabsorbedthesauceandwasflavoredthroughandthrough.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES4TO6

Hickorywoodchipsaretraditionalhere;however,anytypeofwoodchipswillwork fine. Twomediumwood chunks, soaked in water for one hour, can besubstitutedforthewoodchipsonacharcoalgrill.

½ teaspoonsalt

½

teaspoonblackpepper

¼


CHICKEN

1 teaspoonsalt

1 teaspoonblackpepper

½




1(13by9-inch)disposablealuminumroastingpan(ifusingcharcoal)

1. FOR THE SAUCE: Process ingredients in blender until smooth, about 1minute.Refrigerateforatleast1hourorupto2days.

2.FORTHECHICKEN:Combine salt, pepper, and cayenne in small bowl.Usingkitchenshears,cutalongbothsidesofbackbone toremove it.Trimanyexcessfatorskinatneck.Flipchickenoverand,usingchef’sknife,cutthroughbreastbone to separate chicken into halves. Repeat with other chicken. Patchickensdrywithpapertowelsandrubthemevenlywithspicemixture.Usinglargepieceofheavy-dutyaluminumfoil,wrapsoakedchips in foilpacketandcutseveralventholesintop.

3A. FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL: Open bottom vent halfway and placedisposablepanincenterofgrill.Lightlargechimneystarterfilledwithcharcoalbriquettes(6quarts).Whentopcoalsarepartiallycoveredwithash,pourinto2evenpilesoneithersideofpan.Placewoodchippacketon1pileofcoals.Setcookinggrateinplace,cover,andopenlidventhalfway.Heatgrilluntilhotandwoodchipsaresmoking,about5minutes.

3B.FORAGASGRILL:Placewoodchippacketdirectlyonprimaryburner.Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot and wood chips aresmoking,about15minutes.Turnallburnerstomedium-low.(Adjustburnersasneededtomaintaingrilltemperaturearound350degrees.)

4.Cleanandoilcookinggrate.Placechickenskinsidedownongrill(incenterof grill if using charcoal). Cover (positioning lid vent over chicken if usingcharcoal)andcookchickenuntilwellbrownedonbottomandthighsregister120degrees,35to45minutes.

5.Flip chicken skin sideup.Cover andcontinue to cookchickenuntil skin isgoldenbrownandcrispandbreastsregister160degreesandthighsregister175degrees,15to20minuteslonger.

6.Transferchicken tocarvingboardandbrushwith2 tablespoonssauce.Tentchicken with foil and let rest for 10 minutes. Brush chicken with remainingsauce,carve,andserve.

KEEPINGBBQINTHEFAMILY

Big Bob Gibson’s, famous for its white mayonnaise-based sauce, has been serving hickory-smoked barbecue in Decatur, Alabama, since 1925. Now run by Big Bob’s grandchildren andgreat-grandchildren,therestauranthasexpandedseveraltimes.Thecurrentpitsmokercancook175chickens,110slabsofribs,and60wholeturkeysatthesametime.AlthoughBigBobusedthe sauce mostly on chicken, his grandson Don McLemore says nowadays people put it oneverythingfromporktopotatochips.

CLASSICBARBECUEDCHICKEN

QUICKBARBECUESAUCE

3cupsstore-boughtbarbecuesauce

½

cupmolasses

½

cupketchup

¼

cupcidervinegar

ClassicBarbecuedChickenWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSDespite its popularity, barbecued chicken

recipescausegrillersplentyofheadaches.Mostrecipescallforsearingchickenquickly over high heat, but we found that starting the chicken over low heatslowlyrendered the fatwithout thedangerof flare-ups.Usingamethodcalled“grill roasting” ensured thatwe had almost completely cooked chicken beforewewerereadytoaddoursauce.Wecreatedathick,complexlayerofbarbecueflavor for our grilled chicken by applying the sauce in coats and turning thechicken frequently as it cooked overmoderate heat and then finishing it overhigherheat.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES4TO6

Don’ttrytogrillmorethan10piecesofchickenatatime;youwon’tbeabletolinethemuponthegrillasdirectedinstep5.

3 tablespoonsbrownmustard



CHICKEN

1 teaspoonsalt

1 teaspoonpepper

¼



1(13by9-inch)disposablealuminumroastingpan(ifusingcharcoal)

1. FOR THE BARBECUE SAUCE: Whisk all ingredients in mediumsaucepanandbringtoboilovermedium-highheat.Reduceheattomediumandcookuntilsauceisthickandreducedto3cups,about20minutes.(Saucecanberefrigeratedinairtightcontainerforupto1week.)

2.FORTHECHICKEN:Combine salt, pepper, and cayenne in small bowl.Patchickendrywithpapertowelsandrubevenlywithspicemixture.

3A. FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL: Open bottom vent completely. Placedisposablepanon1sideofgrill.Lightlargechimneystarterfilledwithcharcoalbriquettes(6quarts).Whentopcoalsarepartiallycoveredwithash,pourevenlyoverhalfofgrill,oppositepan.Setcookinggrate inplace,cover,andopenlidventcompletely.Heatgrilluntilhot,about5minutes.

3B.FORAGASGRILL:Turnallburners tohigh,cover,andheatgrilluntilhot, about 15minutes.Leave primary burner on high and turn other burner(s)off.(Adjustprimaryburnerasneededtomaintaingrill temperaturearound350degrees.)

4.Cleanandoilcookinggrate.Placechicken, skinsidedown,oncool sideofgrill.Cover(positioninglidventoverchickenifusingcharcoal)andcookuntilchicken begins to brown, 30 to 35minutes.Measure out 2 cups of sauce forbrushingchicken.

5.Slidechickenintosinglelinebetweenhotandcoolsidesofgrillandcontinuetocook,uncovered,flippingchickenandbrushingwithhalfofsauceforcookingevery5minutes,untilsticky,about20minutes.

6.Slidechickentohotsideofgrillandcontinuetocook,flippingandbrushingchickenwithremainingsauceforcooking,untilwellglazedandbreastsregister160degreesandthighs/drumsticksregister175degrees,about5minutes.

7.Transferchickentoplatter,tentlooselywithaluminumfoil,andletrestfor10minutes.Servewithreservedsauce.

BARBECUEDCHICKEN,SLOWANDLOW

Firstgrill roasting, thenbastingovermoderateheat,and finally finishingwithmorebastingoverhigherheatensuresrendered,saucy,perfectlycookedchicken.

1.Cookchickenskinsidedownandcoveredoncoolsideofgrillforabout30minutes.

2.Movechickenintoasinglelinenearcoals;basteandturnchicken.Thenmovepiecesdirectlyovercoalstocaramelizesauce.

GRILLEDBUTTERFLIEDLEMONCHICKEN

CHICKENANDRUB


2teaspoonsgratedlemonzest(reservelemonforvinaigrette)

2 teaspoonssalt

1 teaspoonpepper

1(13by9-inch)disposablealuminumroastingpan

GrilledButterfliedLemonChicken WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For perfectly grilled butterflied lemon

chicken,we banked all the coals on one side of the grill, placing the chickenoppositethecoalsandsettingthelidonthegrill.Thisallowedthefatunderthechicken’s skin to render slowly and the relatively gentle heat resulted in amoister bird. Placing the chickenon the grill skin side down reduced cookingtime and allowed themost fat to render—a final sear directly over the dyingcoalsat theendofcookingcrispedandbrowned theskinnicely.To finish thechickenwith intense lemon flavor,wecaramelized lemonhalvesover thegrillandmadeasaucefromtheirjuice.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES8

VINAIGRETTE

4lemons,halved;pluszested,halvedlemonfromrub

2 tablespoonsmincedfreshparsley


1garlicclove,minced

1 teaspoonsugar

½

teaspoonsalt

½

teaspoonpepper

⅔ cupextra-virginoliveoil

1.FORTHECHICKENANDRUB: Setwire rack in rimmedbaking sheet.Using kitchen shears, cut along both sides of backbone to remove it. Flattenbreastbone.Use your hands to loosen skin over breast and thighs and removeanyexcessfat.Repeatwithotherchicken.Combinelemonzest,salt,andpepperin bowl. Rub zest mixture under chicken skin and tuck wings behind back.Transfer chickens to prepared baking sheet and refrigerate, uncovered, for 30minutes.(Chickensmaybeprepareduptothispoint24hoursinadvance;allowchickenstositatroomtemperaturefor30minutesbeforegrilling.)

2A. FORACHARCOALGRILL: Open bottom vent completely and placedisposablepanon1sideofgrill.Lightlargechimneystarterfilledwithcharcoalbriquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered in ash, pour intosteeplybankedpileagainstsideofgrill(oppositedisposablepan).Evenlyscatter20unlitcoalsontopofhotcoals.Setcookinggrateinplace,cover,andopenlidventcompletely.Heatgrilluntilhot,about5minutes.

2B.FORAGASGRILL:Turnallburners tohigh,cover,andheatgrilluntilhot, about 15 minutes. Leave primary burner on high and turn off otherburner(s).(Adjustprimaryburnerasneededtomaintaingrilltemperaturearound350degrees.)

3.Cleanandoilcookinggrate.Placelemonhalves,cutsidedown,onhotsideofgrill and cook until deep brown and caramelized, 5 to 8minutes. Transfer tobowl.

4.Placechickenskinsidedownoncoolsideofgrill,withlegsclosertohotside.Cover(positioninglidventoverchickenifusingcharcoal)andcookuntilskiniswellbrowned,45to55minutes.

5.Slidechickentohotsideofgrillandcontinuetocook(coveredifusinggas)until deeply browned and breasts register 160 degrees and thighs register 175degrees,about5minuteslonger.Transferchickentocarvingboard,tentlooselywithaluminumfoil,andletrestfor10minutes.

6. FOR THE VINAIGRETTE: While chicken cooks, squeeze⅓ cup juicefromgrilled lemons intobowl.Stir inparsley,mustard,garlic, sugar, salt, andpepper,thenslowlywhiskinoiluntilemulsified.

7. Carve chicken and transfer to serving platter. Pour⅓ cup vinaigrette overchickenandserve,passingremainingvinaigretteseparately.

BUTTERFLYINGAWHOLECHICKEN

1.Cutthroughbonesoneithersideofbackboneandtrimanyexcessfatorskinatneck.

2.Flipchickenoveranduseheelofyourhandtoflattenbreastbone.

GRILLEDCHICKENWINGS

½

cupsalt

2poundschickenwings,wingtipsdiscarded,trimmed

1½

teaspoonscornstarch

1 teaspoonpepper

GrilledChickenWingsWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSTogetcrisp,well-renderedchickenwings,

we tossed thewings in cornstarch (and spices) and grilled themover a gentlemedium-lowheat.Webegangrillingwiththethickerskinsidefacingupsothatthefatcouldslowlyrender,andthenweflippedthewingsattheendofcookingto crisp the skin. Also, though we normally cook white chickenmeat to 160degrees,wingsarechock-fullofcollagen,whichbeginstobreakdownupwardsof 170 degrees. Cooking thewings to 180 degrees producedmeltingly tenderwings.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

MAKES2DOZENWINGS

Ifyoubuywholewings,cutthemintotwopiecesbeforebrining.Don’tbrinethewingsformorethan30minutesorthey’llbetoosalty.

1.Dissolvesaltin2quartscoldwaterinlargecontainer.Prickchickenwingsalloverwithfork.Submergechickeninbrine,cover,andrefrigeratefor30minutes.

2.Combinecornstarchandpepperinbowl.Removechickenfrombrineandpatdrywithpapertowels.Transferwingstolargebowlandsprinklewithcornstarchmixture,tossinguntilevenlycoated.

3A.FORACHARCOALGRILL:Openbottomventcompletely.Lightlargechimney starter half filledwith charcoal briquettes (3 quarts).When top coalsarepartiallycoveredwithash,pourevenlyovergrill.Setcookinggrateinplace,cover,andopenlidventcompletely.Heatgrilluntilhot,about5minutes.

3B.FORAGASGRILL:Turnallburners tohigh,cover,andheatgrilluntilhot,about15minutes.Turnallburnerstomedium-low.

4.Cleanandoilcookinggrate.Grillwings(covered ifusinggas), thickerskinsideup,untilbrownedonbottom,12to15minutes.Flipchickenandgrilluntilskin is crisp and lightly charred and meat registers 180 degrees, about 10minutes.Transferchickentoplatter,tentlooselywithaluminumfoil,andletrestfor5to10minutes.Serve.

BBQGRILLEDCHICKENWINGSReducepepper to½ teaspoon.Add1 teaspoon chili powder, 1 teaspoonpaprika,½ teaspoongarlicpowder,½teaspoondriedoregano,and½teaspoonsugartocornstarchmixtureinstep2.

CREOLEGRILLEDCHICKENWINGS

Add ¾ teaspoon dried oregano, ½ teaspoon garlic powder, ½ teaspoon onion powder, ½teaspoonwhitepepper,and¼teaspooncayennepeppertocornstarchmixtureinstep2.

TANDOORIGRILLEDCHICKENWINGS

Reduce pepper to½ teaspoon. Add 1 teaspoon garammasala,½ teaspoon ground cumin,¼teaspoon garlic powder, ¼ teaspoon ground ginger, and ⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper tocornstarchmixtureinstep2.

PREPPINGGRILLEDCHICKENWINGS

1.Puncturingeachwingwitha fork letsbrineeasilypenetratemeatandgives rendered fatanescaperoute.

2.Quicksaltwaterbrineseasonswingsandkeepsthemjuicy.

3. Right before grilling, dust wings with mixture of cornstarch (to prevent sticking) and blackpepper.

GRILLEDCHICKENLEGQUARTERS



1 tablespoonsugar

2teaspoonsgratedlimezestplus2tablespoonsjuice

2teaspoonsplus¼cupextra-virginoliveoil

GrilledChickenLegQuartersWHYTHISRECIPEWORKS Chicken leg quarters seem like a perfect

candidateforthegrill—therichlegandthighmeathasplentyofskintocrispup.Butthethickjointtakeslongertocookthantherestoftheleg,sogrillingoftenresults in overcooking. To remedy this, we took a two-pronged approach. Topreparethechicken,wemadeslashesdowntothebone,atechniqueoftenusedfor large cuts ofmeat.This helped the chicken cook evenly, and also ensureddeep seasoning. We then used our two-level grilling technique, starting thechicken over a low flame, then searing it over a hot fire. A citrus-y dressingprovidedawelcomehitofbrightness.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES4

Agarlicpressmakesquickworkofmincing the6clovescalled forhere.Youcan use 1 teaspoon of dried oregano in place of the fresh called for in thedressing.Donot(ever)usedriedcilantro.

1½ teaspoonsgroundcumin

1 teaspoonpepper

½


4(10-ounce)chickenlegquarters,trimmed


2 teaspoonschoppedfreshoregano

1. Combine garlic, salt, sugar, lime zest, 2 teaspoons oil, cumin, pepper, andcayenne in bowl andmix to form paste. Reserve 2 teaspoons garlic paste fordressing.

2.Positionchickenskinsideuponcuttingboardandpatdrywithpapertowels.Leaving drumsticks and thighs attached, make 4 parallel diagonal slashes inchicken:1acrossdrumsticks,1acrosslegjoints;and2acrossthighs(eachslashshould reach bone). Flip chickenover andmake1more diagonal slash acrossbackofdrumsticks.Rubremaininggarlicpastealloverchickenandintoslashes.Refrigeratechickenforatleast1hourorupto24hours.

3A.FORACHARCOALGRILL:Openbottomventcompletely.Lightlargechimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts).When top coals arepartially coveredwith ash,pour two-thirds evenlyoverhalfofgrill, thenpourremainingcoalsoverotherhalfofgrill.Set cookinggrate inplace, cover, andopenlidventcompletely.Heatgrilluntilhot,about5minutes.

3B.FORAGASGRILL:Turnallburners tohigh,cover,andheatgrilluntilhot,about15minutes.Turnprimaryburnertomediumandturnotherburner(s)tolow.(Adjustprimaryburnerasneededtomaintaingrilltemperatureof400to425degrees.)

4.Cleanandoilcookinggrate.Placechickenoncoolersideofgrill,skinsideup.Coverandcookuntilundersideofchickenislightlybrowned,9to12minutes.Flip chicken, cover, and cook until leg joint registers 165 degrees, 7 to 10minutes.

5.Transferchickentohottersideofgrill,skinsidedown,andcook(coveredifusinggas)untilskiniswellbrowned,3to5minutes.Flipchickenandcontinuetocookuntillegjointregisters175degrees,about3minuteslonger.Transfertoplatter,tentlooselywithaluminumfoil,andletrestfor5to10minutes.

6. Meanwhile, whisk lime juice, remaining ¼ cup oil, cilantro, oregano, andreservedgarlicpastetogetherinbowl.Spoonhalfofdressingoverchickenandserve,passingremainingdressingseparately.

MAKINGFLAVORFUL,WELL-COOKEDCHICKENLEGQUARTERS

1. SLASH: Make bone-deep slashes in each quarter so the seasonings canpenetrateandthemeatcooksmorereadily.

2.RUB:Massagethegarlickyseasoningpasteintotheslashesandalloverthechickenandrefrigerateforupto24hours.

BARBECUEDPULLEDCHICKEN

CHICKEN

1 cupsalt

2(4-pound)wholechickens,gibletsdiscarded

Pepper


BarbecuedPulledChicken WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Barbecuing is the perfect method for

cooking fattycutsofporkorbeef,but relatively leanchicken isanother story.Forbarbecuedpulledchickenwithasmokyflavorandmoist,tendermeat,we’dhavetocomeupwithsometricks.Briningthebirdskeptthewhitemeatmoistand juicy, and arranging the chickens on the grillwith the breastmeat fartherfrom the heat source than the dark meat evened out the cooking times. Wetweaked our favorite barbecue sauce to better complement the chicken,increasingthevinegar tobalancethesweetnessandswappingtherootbeerforcoffeetoboostthesmokyflavor.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

MAKESENOUGHFOR8SANDWICHES

Weprefer tohalve thechickensourselves,butyoumaybeable tobuyhalvedchickensfromyourbutcher.

SAUCE


1onion,choppedfine

4 cupschickenbroth

1¼

cupscidervinegar

1 cupbrewedcoffee

¾

cupmolasses

½

cuptomatopaste

½

cupketchup

2 tablespoonsbrownmustard

1 tablespoonhotsauce

½


¼

teaspoonliquidsmoke

1. FOR THE CHICKEN: Dissolve salt in 4 quarts cold water in largecontainer. Remove backbones from chickens and split chickens in halflengthwisethroughcenterofbreastbone.Usingmetalskewer,poke20holesallovereachchickenhalf.Submergechickenhalvesinbrine,cover,andrefrigeratefor1hour.Removechickenhalves frombrine,patdrywithpaper towels,andseasonwithpepper.Usinglargepieceofheavy-dutyaluminumfoil,wrapsoakedwoodchipsinfoilpacketandcutseveralventholesintop.

2.FORTHESAUCE:Meanwhile,heatoil inDutchovenovermedium-highheat until shimmering. Add onion and cook until softened, about 5 minutes.Whisk inbroth,vinegar, coffee,molasses, tomatopaste,ketchup,mustard,hotsauce, and garlic powder and bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium-low andsimmeruntilmixtureisthickandreducedto4cups,about65to75minutes.Stirinliquidsmoke;reserve1cupsauceforserving.(Saucecanberefrigeratedforupto2days.)

3A. FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL: Open bottom vent halfway. Light largechimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts).When top coals arepartially coveredwith ash, pour into steeply banked pile against side of grill.Placewoodchippacketoncoals.Setcookinggrateinplace,cover,andopenlidventhalfway.Heatgrilluntilhotandwoodchipsaresmoking,about5minutes.

3B.FORAGASGRILL:Placewoodchippacketoverprimaryburner.Turnallburnerstohigh,cover,andheatgrilluntilhotandwoodchipsaresmoking,about15minutes.Leaveprimaryburneronhighandturnoffotherburner(s).

4.Cleanandoilcookinggrate.Placechickenhalvesskinsideuponcoolsideofgrillwith legsclosest toheatsource.Coverandcookuntilbreastsregister160degreesand thighs register175degrees,75 to85minutes.Transferchicken tocarving board, tent looselywith foil, and let rest until cool enough to handle,about15minutes.Removeanddiscardskin.Pullmeatoffbones,separatingdarkand lightmeat.Roughlychopdarkmeat into½-inchpieces.Shredwhitemeatintothinstrands.

5.Addchickentopotwithsauceandcookovermedium-lowheatuntilchickeniswarmedthrough,about5minutes.Serveonhamburgerrolls,passingreservedsauceseparately.

HALVINGCHICKENS

1.Placechickenbreastsidedownoncuttingboard.Usekitchenshearstocutalongeithersideofbackbone;removebackbone.

2.Flipchickenanduseyourhandtoflatten.Usingchef’sknife,cutlengthwisethroughbreastbonetoseparatechickenintohalves.

CALIFORNIABARBECUEDTRI-TIP



¾

teaspoonsalt

1(2-pound)tri-tiproast,trimmed

1 teaspoonpepper

CaliforniaBarbecuedTri-TipWHYTHISRECIPEWORKS Unlike other barbecue recipes, California

barbecued tri-tip recipes call for cooking themeat (bottom sirloin roast) overhighheatandseasoningitonlywithsalt,pepper,garlic,andthesweetsmokeofthegrill.Thisconsistentlyproducesacharredexteriorandveryrarecenter—butwewantedtheoutsidecookedlessandtheinsidecookedmore.Toachievethis,we pushed all the coals in our grill to one side,which created a hot zone forcooking and a cooler one for finishing themeat slowly. To prevent themeatfromtasting toosmoky,weheldoffon thewoodchipsuntilafterwe’dsearedthemeat.

SERVES4TO6

Ifyoucan’tfindtri-tip,bottomroundsteakwillalsowork.Twomediumwoodchunks,soakedinwaterforonehour,canbesubstitutedforthewoodchipsonacharcoal grill. Serve with Santa Maria Salsa (recipe follows) and CaliforniaBarbecuedBeans.Wepreferthisroastcookedmedium-rare.

¾

teaspoongarlicsalt


1.Combinegarlic,oil,andsaltinbowl.Patmeatdrywithpapertowels,pokeitabout 20 times on each sidewith fork, and rub it evenlywith garlicmixture.Wrapmeatinplasticwrapandletsitatroomtemperatureforatleast1hourorrefrigerateforupto24hours.(Ifrefrigerated, letsitat roomtemperaturefor1hourbeforegrilling.)Beforecooking,unwrapmeat,wipeoffgarlicpasteusingpapertowels,andrubitevenlywithpepperandgarlicsalt.Usinglargepieceofheavy-dutyaluminumfoil,wrapsoakedchipsinfoilpacketandcutseveralventholesintop.

2A.FORACHARCOALGRILL:Openbottomventcompletely.Lightlargechimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts).When top coals arepartially coveredwith ash,pour evenlyoverhalfofgrill.Set cookinggrate inplace,cover,andopenlidventcompletely.Heatgrilluntilhot,about5minutes.


3.Cleanandoilcookinggrate.Grillmeatonhotsideofgrilluntilwellbrownedonbothsides,about10minutes.Transfermeattoplate.

4.Placewoodchippacketdirectlyoncoalsorprimaryburner.Ifusinggas,leaveprimaryburneronhighandturnotherburner(s)off.

5.Placemeatoncoolsideofgrill.Cover(positioninglidventovermeatifusingcharcoal) and cookuntilmeat registers 120 to 125degrees (formedium-rare),about20minutes.

6.Transfermeattocarvingboard, tentlooselywithaluminumfoil,andletrestfor20minutes.Slicemeatthinagainstgrainandserve.

2poundstomatoes,coredandchopped

2 teaspoonssalt

2jalapeñochiles,stemmed,seeded,andchoppedfine

1smallredonion,choppedfine


¼ cuplimejuice(2limes)¼


1garlicclove,minced

⅛


⅛

SANTAMARIASALSA

MAKESABOUT4CUPS

Thedistincttextureofeachingredientispartofthissalsa’sidentityandappeal,sowedon’trecommendusingafoodprocessor.

teaspoonWorcestershiresauce

1.Place tomatoes instrainer setoverbowlandsprinklewithsalt;drain for30minutes. Discard liquid. Meanwhile, combine jalapeños, onion, celery, limejuice,cilantro,garlic,oregano,andWorcestershireinlargebowl.

2.Adddrained tomatoes to jalapeñomixture and toss to combine.Coverwithplasticwrapandletstandatroomtemperaturefor1hourbeforeserving.(Salsacanberefrigeratedforupto2days.)

SHREDDEDBARBECUEDBEEF

SPICERUBANDBEEF

1 tablespoonsalt

1 tablespoonpepper


1(5-to6-pound)bonelessbeefchuck-eyeroast,trimmedandquartered

ShreddedBarbecuedBeefWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSForourShreddedBarbecuedBeef,wecuta

chuck roast into quarters. The smaller pieces of beef absorbed more smokeflavorandcookedmuchfaster.Aftercookingthemeatinadisposableroastingpan on the cooler side of the grill for a few hours, we flipped all 4 pieces,wrappedthepaninfoil,andplacedtheroastintheoventofinishcooking.Forabarbecue saucewith richer flavor,we sautéed the onions in beef fat from thepan. Chili powder and pepper added bite, while ketchup, vinegar, coffee,Worcestershiresauce,brownsugar,andthebeefjuicesroundedouttheflavors.

SERVES8TO10

Ifyoupreferasmoothbarbecuesauce,strainthesaucebeforetossingitwiththebeef instep5.We like toserve thisbeefonwhitebreadwithplentyofpicklechips. Three medium wood chunks, soaked in water for one hour, can besubstitutedforthewoodchipsonacharcoalgrill.

1 (13by9-inch)disposablealuminumroastingpan


BARBECUESAUCE

1onion,choppedfine


½

teaspoonchilipowder

1¼

cupsketchup

¾

cupbrewedcoffee

½

cupcidervinegar

½

cuppackedbrownsugar


½

teaspoonpepper

1.Combine salt, pepper, and cayenne in small bowl. Patmeat drywith papertowelsandrubevenlywithspicemixture.Wrapmeatinplasticwrapandletsitat room temperature for at least 1 hour or refrigerate up to 24 hours. (Ifrefrigerated, let sit at room temperature for 1 hour before grilling.) Beforecooking, unwrapmeat and transfer to disposable pan.Using 2 large pieces ofheavy-dutyaluminumfoil,wrapsoakedchips in2 foilpacketsandcut severalventholesintops.

2A.FORACHARCOALGRILL:Openbottomventcompletely.Lightlargechimney starter half filledwith charcoal briquettes (3 quarts).When top coalsare partially coveredwith ash, pour into steeply banked pile against 1 side ofgrill.Placewoodchippacketsoncoals.Setcookinggrate inplace,cover,andopenlidventhalfway.Heatgrilluntilhotandwoodchipsaresmoking,about5minutes.

2B.FORAGASGRILL:Placewoodchippacketsdirectlyonprimaryburner.Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot and wood chips aresmoking, about 15 minutes. Leave primary burner on high and turn otherburner(s) off. (Adjust primary burner as needed to maintain grill temperaturebetween250 and300degrees.)3. Place panofmeat on cool side of the grill.Cover(positioninglidventovermeat ifusingcharcoal)andcookuntilmeat isdeepred,about2hours.Duringfinal20minutesofgrilling,adjustovenracktolower-middlepositionandheatovento300degrees.

4.Flipmeatoverinpan,coverpantightlywithfoil,androastbeefinovenuntilforkslipseasilyinandoutofbeef,2to3hours.

5.Transfermeattolargebowl,tentlooselywithfoil,andletrestfor30minutes.Whilemeatrests,skimfatfromaccumulatedjuicesinpan;reserve2tablespoonsfat.Straindefattedjuices;reserve½cupjuice.Combineonionandreservedfatinmediumsaucepanandcookovermediumheatuntilonionhassoftened,about10 minutes. Add garlic and chili powder and cook until fragrant, about 30seconds.Stirinketchup,coffee,vinegar,sugar,Worcestershire,pepper,andanyaccumulatedmeatjuicesandsimmeruntilthickened,about15minutes.Using2forks,pullmeatintoshreds,discardinganyexcessfatorgristle.Tossmeatwith½cupbarbecuesauce.Serve,passingremainingsauceattable.

JUCYLUCYBURGERS

2slicesheartywhitesandwichbread,torninto1-inchpieces

¼

cupwholemilk


¾

teaspoonsalt

½

JucyLucyBurgersWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSMinneapolistavernsarefamousfortheJucy

Lucy, amoist beef burger stuffedwithAmerican cheese.Replicating the JucyLucy seemed easy enough—but our burgers, cooked towell-done tomelt thecheeseinside,weredryandtoughorthecheesemeltedthroughthemeat,leavingan empty cavernwhere the cheese had been.Tokeep the cheese in place,wecreatedadouble-sealedpocketbywrappingthecheeseinsideasmallbeefpattyandthenmoldingasecondpattyaroundit.Addingamixtureofbreadandmilk,mashedintoapaste,tothegroundbeefkepttheburgersmoistandjuicy.Seethesidebarsthatfollowtherecipe.

SERVES4

BuytheAmericancheesefromthedelicounter,andaskthemtosliceitintoa½-inchslabfromwhichyoucancutfourbigcubestofillthecenteroftheburgers.One or two percent low-fat milk can be substituted for the whole milk. Thecheesycenteroftheseburgersismoltenhotwhenfirstremovedfromthegrill,sobesuretolettheburgersrestforatleastfiveminutesbeforeserving.

teaspoonpepper


1(½-inch-thick)piecedeliAmericancheese,quartered

1.Inlargebowlandusingpotatomasher,mashbread,milk,garlicpowder,salt,and pepper into smooth paste. Add beef and lightly kneadmixture until wellcombined.

2.Dividemeatinto4equalportions.Usinghalfofeachportionofmeat,encasecheese to formminiburgerpatty.Mold remaininghalf-portionofmeataroundmini patty and seal edges to form ball. Flatten ball with palm of your hand,forming¾-inch-thickpatty.Coverandrefrigeratepattiesforatleast30minutesorupto24hours.

3A.FORACHARCOALGRILL:Openbottomventcompletely.Lightlargechimney starter half filledwith charcoal briquettes (3 quarts).When top coalsarepartiallycoveredwithash,pourevenlyovergrill.Setcookinggrateinplace,cover,andheatgrilluntilhot,about5minutes.

3B.FORAGASGRILL:Turnallburners tohigh,cover,andheatgrilluntilhot,about15minutes.Turnallburnerstomedium.

4.Cleanandoilcookinggrate.Layburgersongrillandcook,withoutpressingonthem,untilwellbrownedonbothsidesandcookedthrough,12to16minutes,flipping burgers halfway through grilling. Transfer burgers to platter, tentlooselywithaluminumfoil,andletrestfor5minutesbeforeserving.

HOWTOFORMAJUCYLUCY

Toavoidaburgerblowout,it’sessentialtocompletelysealinthecheese.

1.Usinghalfofeachportionofmeat,encasecheesetoformminiburgerpatty.

2.Moldremaininghalf-portionofmeataroundminipattyandsealedgestoformaballandflattentoform¾-inchpatty.

THEGREATLUCYDEBATE

AdebatestillragesastowheretheJucyLucywascreated.TwoMinnesotataverns,Matt’sBarandthe5–8Club,claimtohavecreatedtheburgerinthe1950s.Asthestorygoes,acustomerrequestedaburgerwiththecheesesealedinthemiddle.Whenhebitin,thehotcheesespurtedoutandheexclaimed,“That’sonejuicyLucy!”Asfortheunusualspelling,that’sstillamystery.

GREENCHILECHEESEBURGERS

3Anaheimchiles,stemmed,halved,andseeded

3jalapeñochiles,stemmed,halved,andseeded

1onion,slicedinto½-inch-thickrounds

1garlicclove,minced

Saltandpepper

GreenChileCheeseburgersWHY THIS RECIPEWORKS For our version of NewMexico’s green

chile cheeseburgers—groundbeef patties grilled to a crustybrownand toppedwithchoppedfire-roastedchilesandasliceofcheese—wepreferredtheflavorandfatof85percentleangroundbeef.Forthetopping,weusedmildAnaheimchilesandspicyjalapeñosforacomplexchileflavor.Wegrilledthechileswithonions, thenquicklychoppedthemwithfreshgarlic in thefoodprocessor.Forevenmorechileflavor,wepureedsomeofthechiletoppingintoasmoothpasteandmixeditintotherawgroundbeef.Thisgaveusburgerswithsatisfyingheatthroughandthrough.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES4

Instep3,youmayneedtoaddateaspoonortwoofwatertothefoodprocessortohelpprocessthechilemixture.Pressingashallowdivotinthecenterofeachburgerpattykeepstheburgersflatduringgrilling.


4 slicesdeliAmericancheese



2.Cleanandoil cookinggrate.PlaceAnaheims, jalapeños,andonionongrill,cover,andcookuntilvegetablesarelightlycharredandtender,4to6minutes,flipping halfway through cooking. Transfer vegetables to bowl, cover, and letcool 5minutes.Remove skins from chiles and discard; separate onion roundsintorings.

3. Transfer chiles and onion to food processor, add garlic, and pulse untilcoarselychopped,about5pulses.Transferallbut¼cupchoppedchilemixtureto empty bowl and season with salt and pepper; set aside. Process remainingmixtureuntilfinelychopped,about45seconds,scrapingdownbowlasneeded.

4.Combinebeef,finelychoppedchilemixture,½teaspoonsalt,and¼teaspoonpepperinlargebowlandlightlykneaduntilwellcombined.Shapeintofour¾-inch-thickpattiesandpressshallowdepressionincenterofeach.

5.Placeburgersongrill,cover,andcookuntilwellbrownedonfirstside,3to5minutes. Flip burgers, top with reserved coarsely chopped chile mixture andcheese, and continue to cook, covered, until cheese ismelted and burgers arecookedtodesireddoneness,3to5minutes.Serve.

CHILEPINCHHITTER

For complex green chile flavor outside of New Mexico, we found that a combination of mildAnaheimsandspicyjalapeñoshasanicepepperybalance.

MILDHEATAnaheimchilesaddamildlysweet,grassyflavor.

SPICEISNICEJalapeñochileshavejustenoughheattostanduptothebeefinessoftheburger.

CHICAGO-STYLEBARBECUEDRIBS

SPICERUBANDRIBS

1 tablespoondrymustard

1 tablespoonpaprika

1 tablespoonpackeddarkbrownsugar

1½

teaspoonsgarlicpowder

Chicago-StyleBarbecuedRibs WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Chicago-style barbecued ribs recipes

typicallycallforsmokingtheribsatabout200degreesforatleasteighthours.Thisslow-and-lowcookingmethoddeliversthemoist,tendermeatthatdefinesChicago ribs. We wanted to replicate the same method at home. To shortencookingtime,westartedourrecipeonthegrill—wheretheribspickedupgoodcolorandsmokeflavor—andfinishedthemintheoven.Placingpansofwateronthegrillandintheovensteamedtheribs,makingthemextramoistandtender.ForChicago-style barbecue sauce,we used celery salt, allspice, and plenty ofcayennepepper.

SERVES4TO6

The dry spices are used to flavor both the rub and the barbecue sauce. Onemediumwoodchunk,soakedinwaterfor1hour,canbesubstitutedforthewoodchipsonacharcoalgrill.Whenremoving theribsfromtheoven,becareful tonotspillthehotwaterinthebottomofthebakingsheet.

1½

teaspoonsonionpowder

1½

teaspoonscelerysalt


½


2racksbabybackribs(about1½poundseach),trimmed

1cupwoodchips,soakedinwaterfor15minutesanddrained


SAUCE

1¼

cupsketchup

¼

cupmolasses

¼

cupcidervinegar

¼

cupwater

⅛

teaspoonliquidsmoke

1.FORTHESPICERUBANDRIBS:Combinedrymustard,paprika,sugar,garlicpowder,onionpowder,celerysalt,cayenne,andallspiceinbowl.Measureout and reserve 2 tablespoons spice mixture for sauce. To remove chewymembrane from ribs, loosen itwith tip of paring knife and,with aid of papertowel,pull itoff slowly in1bigpiece.Pat ribsdrywithpaper towelsand rubevenly with spice mixture. Wrap meat in plastic wrap and let sit at roomtemperatureforatleast1hourorrefrigerateforupto24hours.(Ifrefrigerated,letsitatroomtemperaturefor1hourbeforegrilling.)

2.FORTHESAUCE:Whiskallingredientswithreserved2tablespoonsspicerubinbowl.Usinglargepieceofheavy-dutyaluminumfoil,wrapsoakedchipsinfoilpacketandcutseveralventholesintop.

3A.FORACHARCOALGRILL:Openbottomventcompletely.Lightlargechimney starter filledwith charcoalbriquettes (6quarts).Add2 cupswater todisposable pan and place it on 1 side of grill. When top coals are partiallycovered with ash, pour into steeply banked pile against other side of grill,opposite pan ofwater. Placewood chip packet on coals. Set cooking grate inplace,cover,andopenlidventcompletely.Heatgrilluntilhotandwoodchipsaresmoking,about5minutes.

3B.FORAGASGRILL:Placewoodchippacketdirectlyonprimaryburner.Add2cupswater todisposablepanandplace itonsecondaryburner.Turnallburners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot and wood chips are smoking,about15minutes.Turnprimaryburnertomediumandturnotherburner(s)off.(Adjust primary burner as needed to maintain grill temperature around 325degrees.)

4.Cleanandoilcookinggrate.Place ribsmeat sidedownongrilloverwater-filled pan; ribsmay overlap slightly. Cover (positioning lid vent overmeat ifusing charcoal) and cook until ribs are deep red and smoky, about 1½ hours,flippingandrotatingrackshalfwaythroughgrilling.Duringfinal20minutesofgrilling,adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento250degrees.

5.Setwirerackinrimmedbakingsheetandaddjustenoughwatertocoverpanbottom.Transferribstorackandcovertightlywithfoil.Continuetocookribsinovenuntilforkslipseasilyinandoutofmeat,1½to2hours.

6.Removeribsfromoven,tentwithfoil,andletrestfor30minutes.Brushribsevenlywith half of sauce. Slice ribs between bones and servewith remainingsauce.

TEXASBARBECUEDBEEFRIBS

TEXASBARBECUESAUCE


½ smallonion,choppedfine


1½

teaspoonschilipowder

TexasBarbecuedBeefRibsWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSTraditionalTexasbarbecuedbeef ribs are

placedinpitsforupto10hours.Thesmokeslowlypermeatesthemeat,meltingaway fat, building flavor, and creating an unforgettable crust. We wanted astreamlinedrecipe.Tospeedthingsup,wefirstturnedtosteamingtheribsintheovenonatrayofwatercoveredwithaluminumfoil,whichtenderizedtheribs.Wethenmovedtheribs to thegrill,wherewesmokedthemover indirectheat(bankingallthecoalstoonesideofthegrillandplacingtheribsontheemptyside)usingwoodchips.Thesurfaceofthemeatdriedandformedaspicy,crustybark.

SERVES4

Beefribsaresold inslabswithup tosevenbones,butslabswith three tofourbonesareeasiertomanageonthegrill.Ifyoucannotfindribswithasubstantialamount of meat on the bones, don’t bother making this recipe. One mediumwoodchunk,soakedinwaterforonehour,canbesubstitutedforthewoodchipsonacharcoalgrill.

1½ teaspoonspepper

½

teaspoondrymustard

2 cupstomatojuice

6 tablespoonsdistilledwhitevinegar



2 tablespoonsmolasses

Salt

RIBS


4 teaspoonschilipowder

1 tablespoonsalt

2 teaspoonspepper

½


3–4 beefribslabs(3to4ribsperslab,about5poundstotal),trimmed

1cupwoodchips,soakedinwaterfor15minutesanddrained

1.FORTHESAUCE:Meltbutterinmediumsaucepanovermediumheat.Addonion and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in garlic, chili powder,pepper,anddrymustardandcookuntilfragrant,about30seconds.Stirintomatojuice, vinegar,Worcestershire, sugar, andmolasses and simmer until sauce isreduced to 2 cups, about 20minutes. Seasonwith salt to taste. (Sauce can berefrigeratedinairtightcontainerfor1week.)

2.FORTHERIBS:Combinesugar,chilipowder,salt,pepper,andcayenneinbowl.Pat ribs drywith paper towels and rub themevenlywith spicemixture.Coverribswithplasticwrapandletsitatroomtemperaturefor1hour.

3.Adjustovenrack tomiddlepositionandheatoven to300degrees.Setwireracksetinrimmedbakingsheetandaddjustenoughwatertocoverpanbottom.Arrange ribs on rack and cover tightlywith aluminum foil.Bake until fat hasrenderedandmeatbegins topullawayfrombones,about2hours.Usinglargepieceofheavy-dutyfoil,wrapsoakedchips in foilpacketandcutseveralventholesintop.

4A. FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL: Open bottom vent halfway. Light largechimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts).When top coals arepartiallycoveredwithash,pourintosteeplybankedpileagainst1sideofgrill.Placewoodchippacketoncoals.Setcookinggrateinplace,cover,andopenlidventhalfway.Heatgrilluntilhotandwoodchipsaresmoking,about5minutes.

4B.FORAGASGRILL:Placewoodchippacketdirectlyonprimaryburner.Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot and wood chips aresmoking, about 15 minutes. Leave primary burner on high and turn otherburner(s) off. (Adjust primary burner as needed to maintain grill temperaturebetween250and300degrees.)

5.Cleanandoilcookinggrate.Placeribsmeatsidedownoncoolsideofgrill;ribs may overlap slightly. Cover (positioning lid vent over meat if usingcharcoal) and cook until ribs are lightly charred and smoky, about 1½ hours,flippingand rotating rackshalfway throughgrilling.Transfer to cuttingboard,tentwithfoil,andletrestfor10minutes.Servewithbarbecuesauce.

LEXINGTON-STYLEPULLEDPORK

SPICERUBANDPORK

2 tablespoonspaprika

2 tablespoonspepper


1 tablespoonsalt

(4-to5-pound)bonelessporkbuttroast,trimmed

Lexington-StylePulledPorkWHYTHISRECIPEWORKS Traditional vinegar-basedLexington-style

pulled pork recipes take hours to prepare.We wanted to simplify this recipewithoutsacrificingflavor.Todoso,weusedacombinationofgrillingandovenroastingtoreducethecookingtimefromalldaytojustafewhours.ToinfuseourLexington-stylepulledporkwithamplesmokeflavordespitetheabbreviatedcooking time,wedoubled theamountofwoodchipsweused.See the sidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES8

Bonelessporkbutt(alsolabeledBostonbutt)isoftenwrappedinelasticnetting;besuretoremovethenettingbeforerubbingthemeatwiththespicesinstep1.Fourmediumwoodchunks,soakedinwaterforonehour,canbesubstitutedforthewoodchipsonacharcoalgrill.

1


LEXINGTONBARBECUESAUCE

1 cupwater

1 cupcidervinegar

½

cupketchup

1 tablespoongranulatedsugar

¾

teaspoonsalt

½

teaspoonpepper

½


1.FORTHESPICERUBANDPORK:Combinepaprika,pepper,sugar,andsalt in bowl. Pat meat dry with paper towels and rub it evenly with spicemixture.Wrapmeatinplasticwrapandletsitatroomtemperatureforatleast1hourorrefrigerateforupto24hours.(Ifrefrigerated,letsitatroomtemperaturefor 1 hour before grilling.)Using2 large pieces of heavy-duty aluminum foil,wrapsoakedchipsin2foilpacketsandcutseveralventholesintops.

2A. FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL: Open bottom vent halfway. Light largechimney starter half filledwith charcoal briquettes (3 quarts).When top coalsare partially coveredwith ash, pour into steeply banked pile against 1 side ofgrill.Placewoodchippacketsoncoals.Setcookinggrate inplace,cover,andopenlidventhalfway.Heatgrilluntilhotandwoodchipsaresmoking,about5minutes.

2B.FORAGASGRILL:Placewoodchippacketsdirectlyonprimaryburner.Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot and wood chips aresmoking, about 15 minutes. Turn primary burner to medium and turn otherburner(s) off. (Adjust primary burner as needed to maintain grill temperaturearound275degrees.)

3. Clean and oil cooking grate. Place meat on cool side of grill. Cover(positioninglidventovermeatifusingcharcoal)andcookuntilporkhasdark,rosycrust,about2hours.Duringfinal20minutesofgrilling,adjustovenracktolower-middlepositionandheatovento325degrees.

4.Transferporktolargeroastingpan,coverpantightlywithfoil,androastporkinovenuntilforkslipseasilyintoandoutofmeat,2to3hours.Removeporkfromtheovenandletrest,stillcoveredwithfoil,for30minutes.

5.FORTHESAUCE:Whisk together all ingredientsuntil sugar and salt aredissolved.When cool enough to handle, unwrap pork and pullmeat into thinshreds,discardingexcessfatandgristle.Tossporkwith½cupbarbecuesauce,servingremainingsauceattable.

NORTHCAROLINABARBECUEBATTLE

IntheeasternpartofNorthCarolina, it’s justnotbarbecueunlessit’sawholehog.Knownasapig pickin’, this type of barbecue starts with a split hog and ends with succulent meat andcrackling-crispskin.Themeatisthenliterallypickedfromthebonesandlightlyseasonedwithathinvinegarandpeppersauce.WesternCarolinianseschewthewholehogandgostraightfortheporkshoulder—themostmarbledandmeatiestchunkoftheanimal.Theporkshoulderiscookedjustlikethewholehog,butthesauceisenrichedwithjustenoughketchupandsugartotaketheedgeofftheacidity.

SOUTHCAROLINAPULLEDPORK

SPICERUBANDPORK

3 tablespoonsdrymustard

2 tablespoonssalt

1½

tablespoonspackedlightbrownsugar

2 teaspoonspepper

SouthCarolinaPulledPorkWHYTHISRECIPEWORKS This regional recipe, nicknamedCarolina

Gold,demandsmorethanjustalast-minutedoseofboldflavors.Acombinationofgrillingandovenroastingreducesthecookingtimefromalldaytojustfourorfivehours.Weusedaspicerub,whichincludeddrymustardtojump-startthemustard flavor of the sauce.Most South Carolina barbecue sauce recipes useyellowmustard,whichourtasterspraisedforitsbrighttang.Brushingtheporkwith the sauce before itwent into the oven produced a second hit ofmustardflavor;tossingtheshreddedporkwiththeremainingsaucegavethemeatafinallayerofmustardflavor.

SERVES8

Bonelessporkbutt(alsolabeledBostonbutt)isoftenwrappedinelasticnetting;besuretoremovethenettingbeforerubbingthemeatwiththespicesinstep1.The cookedmeat can be shredded or chopped. Two wood chunks, soaked inwaterfor15minutes,canbesubstitutedforthewoodchipsonacharcoalgrill.

2 teaspoonspaprika

¼


1(4-to5-pound)bonelessporkbuttroast,trimmed


MUSTARDBARBECUESAUCE

½

cupyellowmustard

½


¼

cupdistilledwhitevinegar


1 tablespoonhotsauce

1 teaspoonsalt

1 teaspoonpepper

1.FORTHESPICERUB:Combinedrymustard,salt,sugar,pepper,paprika,andcayenneinbowl.Patmeatdrywithpapertowelsandrubitevenlywithspicemixture.Wrapmeatinplasticwrapandletsitatroomtemperatureforatleast1hourorrefrigerateupto24hours.(Ifrefrigerated,letsitatroomtemperaturefor1hourbeforegrilling.)Using2largepiecesofheavy-dutyaluminumfoil,wrapsoakedchipsin2foilpacketsandcutseveralventholesintops.

2A.FORACHARCOALGRILL:Openbottomventcompletely.Lightlargechimney starter half filledwith charcoal briquettes (3 quarts).When top coalsare partially coveredwith ash, pour into steeply banked pile against 1 side ofgrill.Placewoodchippacketsoncoals.Setcookinggrate inplace,cover,andopenlidventhalfway.Heatgrilluntilhotandwoodchipsaresmoking,about5minutes.

2B.FORAGASGRILL:Placewoodchippacketsdirectlyonprimaryburner.Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot and wood chips aresmoking,about15minutes.Turnprimaryburnertomedium-highandturnotherburner(s) off. (Adjust primary burner as needed to maintain grill temperaturearound325degrees.)

3. Clean and oil cooking grate. Place meat on cool side of grill. Cover(positioninglidventovermeatifusingcharcoal)andcookuntilporkhasdark,rosycrust,about2hours.Duringfinal20minutesofgrilling,adjustovenracktolower-middlepositionandheatovento325degrees.

4. FOR THE MUSTARD BARBECUE SAUCE: Whisk yellow mustard,sugar,vinegar,Worcestershire,hotsauce,salt,andpepperinbowluntilsmooth.Measureout½cupsauceandsetasideforcooking,reservingremainingsauceforserving.

5.Transferporktoroastingpanandbrushevenlywithsauceforcooking.Coverpantightlywithfoilandroastporkinovenuntilforkslipseasilyinandoutofmeat,2to3hours.

6.Removeporkfromovenand let rest, stillcoveredwith foil, for30minutes.When cool enough to handle, unwrap pork and pull meat into thin shreds,discardingexcessfatandgristle.Tossporkwithreservedsauceandserve.

SMOKEDDOUBLE-THICKPORKCHOPS

¼


1 tablespoongroundfennel


1 tablespoongroundcoriander

SmokedDouble-ThickPorkChopsWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSMostgrilleddouble-thickporkchoprecipes

resultinacharredexteriorandrawmeat,orgraymeatthattastessteamed.Wewanted our pork chops to have great taste and tenderness. Cooking our porkchopsoverindirectheatmadeforjuicyandtendermeat.Weusedwoodchipsonthegrilltoinfusetheporkwithanicelevelofsmokeflavor.Coatingthedouble-thickporkchopswitharubofbrownsugarandpotentherbsandspiceshelpedproduceaflavorfulcrust,andquickgrillingoverhotcoalsattheendofcookinggave the crust a crisp texture and rich mahogany color. See the sidebar thatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES6TO8

Wepreferbladechops,whichhavemorefat topreventdryingoutonthegrill,but leaner loin chops will also work. Two medium wood chunks, soaked inwater for one hour, can be substituted for thewood chips on a charcoal grill.These chops are huge. You may want to slice the meat off the bone beforeserving.

1 tablespoonpaprika

1 teaspoonsalt

1 teaspoonpepper

4(1¼-to1½-pound)bone-inblade-cutporkchops,about2inchesthick,trimmed


1.Combine sugar, fennel, cumin, coriander, paprika, salt, andpepper inbowl.Patporkchopsdrywithpaper towelsandrub themevenlywithspicemixture.Wrapchopsinplasticwrapandrefrigerateforatleast1hourorupto24hours.Usinglargepieceofheavy-dutyaluminumfoil,wrapsoakedchipsinfoilpacketandcutseveralventholesintop.

2A. FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL: Open bottom vent halfway. Light largechimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts).When top coals arepartially covered with ash, pour into pile on 1 side of grill. Place wood chippacket on coals.Set cookinggrate inplace, cover, andopen lidvent halfway.Heatgrilluntilhotandwoodchipsaresmoking,about5minutes.

2B.FORAGASGRILL:Placewoodchippacketdirectlyonprimaryburner.Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot and wood chips aresmoking, about 15 minutes. Turn primary burner to medium and turn otherburner(s) off. (Adjust primary burner as needed to maintain grill temperaturearound275degrees.)

3.Cleanandoilcookinggrate.Placeporkchopsoncoolsideofgrillwithbonesides facing hot side of grill. Cover (positioning lid vent over pork if usingcharcoal)andcookuntilmeatregisters145degrees,50minutesto1hour.Slidechopsdirectlyover fire (hot sideongasgrill) andcook,uncovered,untilwellbrowned,about4minutes, flippingchopshalfwaythroughgrilling.Transfer toplatterandletrestfor20minutes.Serve.

CUTTINGYOUROWNDOUBLE-THICKPORKCHOPS

Welikejuicyblade-endchopsthatareatleast2inchesthickforourSmokedDouble-ThickPorkChopsrecipe.Ifyoucan’tfindthemprepackagedatyourgrocerystore,justbuya4½-to5-poundbone-inblade roastandcut it into2-inchportionsyourself. If cuttingyourownchops,askyourbutcher or meat department manager if the chine bone (a part of the backbone) has beenremovedfromthebaseoftheroast—thisthickbonecanmakecarvingdifficult.Ifthechinebonehasnotbeenremoved,askthebutchertocutthechopsforyou.

GRILLEDTHIN-CUTPORKCHOPS

6bone-inriborcenter-cutporkchops,about½inchthick,trimmed

¾

teaspoonsalt


1 teaspoonpackedbrownsugar

½

teaspoonpepper

1 teaspoonmincedfreshchives

GrilledThin-CutPorkChopsWHYTHISRECIPEWORKS Usually, by the time thin-cut pork chops

pick up char on the grill, the insides have dried out. To ensure that our porkchops would brown quickly, we partially froze them to eliminate excessmoisture from the exterior. Salting them first prevented them fromdrying outand allowed us to skip brining. A combination of softened butter and brownsugarspreadoverthechopsresultedinaflavorfulgolden-browncrustwhentheycameoffthegrill.Andachiveandmustard-spikedbutteraddedevenmoreflavortothefinishedchops.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES4TO6

Topreventthechopsfromcurling,cuttwoslitsabout2inchesapartthroughthefataroundtheoutsideofeachrawchop.

½

teaspoonDijonmustard

½

teaspoongratedlemonzest

1.Setwirerackinrimmedbakingsheet.Patchopsdrywithpapertowels.Cut2slits,about2inchesapart,throughouterlayeroffatandsilverskinoneachchop.Rubchopswithsalt.Arrangeonpreparedrackandfreezeuntilchopsarefirm,atleast30minutesbutnomorethan1hour.Combine2tablespoonsbutter,brownsugar,andpepperinsmallbowl;setaside.Mixremaining2tablespoonsbutter,chives,mustard,andzestinsecondsmallbowlandrefrigerateuntilfirm,about15minutes.(Butter-chivemixturecanberefrigerated,covered,for1day.)



3.Patchopsdrywithpapertowels.Spreadsoftenedbutter-sugarmixtureevenlyoverbothsidesofeachchop.Grill,covered,overhotfireuntilwellbrownedandmeat registers 145 degrees, 6 to 8 minutes, flipping chops halfway throughgrilling.Transferchopstoplatterandtopwithchilledbutter-chivemixture.Tentwithaluminumfoilandletrestfor5minutes.Serve.

SPICYTHAIGRILLEDTHIN-CUTPORKCHOPSSubstitute 1½ teaspoons Asian chili-garlic sauce, 1 teaspoon minced fresh cilantro, and ½teaspoongratedlimezestforchives,mustard,andlemonzest.

CARIBBEANGRILLEDTHIN-CUTPORKCHOPSSubstitute 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger, ½ teaspoon minced fresh thyme, and ½ teaspoongratedorangezestforchives,mustard,andlemonzest.

MEDITERRANEANGRILLEDTHIN-CUTPORKCHOPSSubstitute1½teaspoonsblackolivetapenadeand½teaspoonmincedfreshoreganoforchivesandmustard.

THINISTHENEWTHICK

For juicy, nicely charred chops, try our method: salting, freezing, and brushing with softenedbutterbeforegrilling.Saltingensuresjuicychops;freezingpromotescrustformationbydryingtheexteriorandaddingvaluableminutestothecookingtime;butteracceleratesbrowningandaddsrichnesstotheleanmeat.

WOULDYOUEATTHIS?Grilledstraightfromthepackage,thischopisdry,pale,andbland.

NOWYOU’RETALKINGSalted,frozen,buttered,thengrilled,thischopisjuicy,browned,andflavorful.

ST.LOUISBBQPORKSTEAKS

SPICERUBANDPORKSTEAKS


1 tablespoonpaprika

2 teaspoonsdrymustard

2 teaspoonspepper

St.LouisBBQPorkSteaksWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSSt.LouisBBQporksteaksarelittle-known

inotherpartsofAmerica,butinSt.Louis,theyaresopopularthatporksteaksareonpermanentsale infamilypacksat thesupermarket.Wefoundtherewasnosubstituteforporksteak,sotheonlyoptionwastocutourown.WeorderedabonelessBostonbuttandcutitinhalfcrosswise,thenturnedeachpieceonendtoslice1-inch-thicksteaks.Inspiredbyatestkitchenrecipeforbratsandbeer,weusedamethodofsear,simmer,searagain.Thisuntraditionalprocessgivesthesteaksanicechar,candylikeedges,andsucculent,slightlychewyinteriors.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES4

Bonelessporkbutt isalsolabeledBostonbutt.Ifporksteaksareavailable,usethem and increase the cooking time in the sauce to 1 to 1½ hours. We useBudweiserinthisrecipe,sinceit’smadeinSt.Louis,butanymild-tastingbeerwilldo.

1 teaspoononionpowder


1 teaspoongroundcumin

1 teaspoonsalt

¼


1(5-to6-pound)bonelessporkbuttroast,slicedcrosswise,trimmed,andeachhalfcutintothreeorfour1-inch-thicksteaks

BARBECUESAUCE

2 cupsbeer

1½

cupsketchup

¼

cupA.1.SteakSauce

¼





1 teaspoonhotsauce

1 teaspoonliquidsmoke


1.FORTHESPICERUBANDPORKSTEAKS:Combine sugar, paprika,drymustard,pepper,onionpowder,garlicpowder,cumin,salt,andcayenneinbowl. Pat pork steaks dry with paper towels and rub them evenly with spicemixture.Wrapporkinplasticwrapandrefrigerateforatleast1hourorupto24hours.

2. FORTHEBARBECUE SAUCE:Whisk all ingredients together in bowlandtransfertodisposablepan.

3A. FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL: Open bottom vent halfway. Light largechimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts).When top coals arepartially coveredwith ash, pour evenly over grill. Set cooking grate in place,cover,andopenlidventhalfway.Heatgrilluntilhot,about5minutes.

3B.FORAGASGRILL:Turnallburners tohigh,cover,andheatgrilluntilhot, about 15minutes.Leave primary burner on high and turn other burner(s)off.(Adjustprimaryburnerasneededtomaintaingrill temperaturearound350degrees.)

4. Clean and oil cooking grate. Place pork steaks on hot side of grill. Cook(covered if using gas) until well browned on both sides, about 10 minutes,flippingsteakshalfwaythroughgrilling.

5. Transfer pork steaks to sauce in pan and coat thoroughly. Cover pan withaluminumfoilandplaceongrill.Cover (positioning lidventoverpan ifusingcharcoal) and cook steaks until fork-tender and they register 190 degrees, 45minutesto1hour.Removesteaksfrompanandgrilluntillightlycharredaroundedges,4to8minutes,flippingsteakshalfwaythroughgrilling.

6. Transfer steaks to serving platter, tent looselywith foil, and let rest for 10minutes.Skimexcessfatfromsauceandservewithsteaks.

MAKINGPORKSTEAKS

1.Sliceporkcrosswiseinhalfandremoveanylargepiecesoffat.

2.Rotateandstandeachhalfofporkbutton itscutendandcuteachhalf into threeor four1-inch-thicksteaks.

CHINESE-STYLEGLAZEDPORKTENDERLOIN

2(12-to16-ounce)porktenderloins,trimmed

½

cupsoysauce

½

cupapricotpreserves

¼

cuphoisinsauce

¼

cupdrysherry


Chinese-StyleGlazedPorkTenderloinWHYTHISRECIPEWORKS For an easy take onChinese-style glazed

and charred pork,we turned to the grill and opted for pork tenderloin,whichcooks quickly over a hot fire. Butterflying and pounding the meat gave usmaximum surface area for our glaze. A combination of thick, sweet apricotpreserves and ketchup flavored with hoisin, fresh ginger, sesame oil, sherry,garlic, and five-spice powder gave us a salty-sweet sauce that acted as bothmarinade and glaze. Continuously flipping and glazing the pork creates acharred,caramelized—butnotburnt—exterior.See thesidebar that follows therecipe.

SERVES4TO6

Leftoverporkmakesanexcellentadditiontofriedriceornoodlesoup.

1 tablespoontoastedsesameoil


1teaspoonfive-spicepowder

1 teaspoonpepper

¼

cupketchup

1 tablespoonmolasses


1. Lay tenderloins on cutting boardwith long side running parallel to counteredge. Cut horizontally down length of each tenderloin, stopping½ inch fromedge so tenderloin remains intact. Working with one at a time, open uptenderloins, place between 2 sheets of plastic wrap, and pound to ¾-inchthickness.

2.Combinesoysauce,preserves,hoisin,sherry,ginger,sesameoil,garlic,five-spice powder, and pepper in bowl.Reserve¾ cup ofmarinade. Place pork inlargezipper-lockbagandpourremainingmarinadeintobagwithpork.Sealbag,turntocoat,andrefrigerateforatleast30minutesorupto4hours.

3.Combinereservedmarinade,ketchup,andmolassesinsmallsaucepan.Cookovermediumheatuntilsyrupyandreducedto¾cup,3to5minutes.Reserve¼cupglazeforglazingcookedpork.


4B.FORAGASGRILL:Turnallburners tohigh,cover,andheatgrilluntilhot,about15minutes.Turnallburnerstomedium-high.

5.Clean and oil cooking grate. Pat pork drywith paper towels, then rubwithvegetableoil.Grillpork(coveredifusinggas)untillightlycharredonfirstside,about2minutes.Flipandbrushgrilledsideofporkevenlywith2 tablespoonsglaze.Continue grilling until lightly charred on second side, about 2minutes.Flip and brush evenly with 2 more tablespoons glaze. Repeat flipping andglazingtwicemore,untilporkregisters140degreesandisthicklyglazed,about4minuteslonger.Transferporktocuttingboardandbrushwithreservedglaze.Tentlooselywithaluminumfoilandletrestfor5minutes.Sliceandserve.

PREPARINGTHETENDERLOINS

1.Place tenderloinsoncuttingboardandsliceeachdownside, leaving½ inchofmeatuncut.Openeachtenderloinlikeabook.

2. Place each butterflied tenderloin between two sheets of plastic wrap. Usingmeat pounder,poundeachto¾-inchthickness.

CHINESE-STYLEBARBECUEDSPARERIBS

2(2½-to3-pound)racksSt.Louis–stylespareribs,trimmed

8blackteabags,preferablyorangespiceorEarlGrey

1½

cupsketchup

1 cupsoysauce

Chinese-StyleBarbecuedSpareribsWHY THIS RECIPE WORKS We began our Chinese-Style Barbecue

Spareribsbyremovingthetoughmembraneontheundersideoftheribs.Insteadofcookingtheribsonthegrilltheentiretime,wefoundthatcookingtheminthesauce in the oven and then finishing them on the grill allowed for deeplyseasonedChinese-styleribsandeliminatedtheneedtomarinatethem.Sincethesmoke fromwood chipswas overpowering,we replaced thewood chipswithorangespiceorEarlGreyteabagssoakedinwater,wrappedinfoil,andplacedon the hot coals for a mellow, smoky flavor that complemented the Asianseasonings.

SERVES6

Full-sizespareribsarefatty,plusthey’retoolargetofitonthegrill.Ifyoucan’tfindSt.Louis–stylespareribs(whichhavebeentrimmedofthebrisketboneandsurroundingmeat), substitute baby back ribs and begin to check for donenessafter 1 hour on the grill. Cover the edges of the ribs looselywith foil if theybegintoburnwhilegrilling.

1 cuphoisinsauce

1 cupsugar

½

cupdrysherry



2 teaspoonstoastedsesameoil

1½

teaspoonscayennepepper


1 cupredcurrantjelly

1.Toremovechewymembranefromribs,loosenitwithtipofparingknifeand,withaidofpaper towel,pull itoffslowly in1bigpiece.Cutribracks inhalf.Coverteabagswithwaterinsmallbowlandsoakfor5minutes.Squeezewaterfromteabags.Usinglargepieceofheavy-dutyaluminumfoil,wrapteabagsinfoilpacketandcutseveralventholesintop.

2.Adjustovenrack tomiddlepositionandheatoven to300degrees.Whisk1cupketchup, soy sauce, hoisin sauce, sugar, sherry, garlic, ginger, sesameoil,and cayenne in large bowl; reserve½ cup for glaze.Arrange ribs,meaty sidedown, indisposablepanandpour remainingketchupmixtureover ribs.Coverpan tightly with foil and cook until fat has rendered andmeat begins to pullawayfrombones,2to2½hours.Transferribstolargeplate.Pourpanjuicesintofatseparator.Letliquidsettleandreserve1cupdefattedpanjuices.

3.Simmerreservedpanjuicesinmediumsaucepanovermedium-highheatuntilreducedto½cup,about5minutes.Stir injelly,reservedketchupmixture,andremaining½cupketchupandsimmeruntilreducedto2cups,10to12minutes.Reserveone-thirdofglazeforserving.

4A.FORACHARCOALGRILL:Openbottomventcompletely.Lightlargechimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts).When top coals arepartially coveredwith ash, pour evenly over half of grill. Place tea packet oncoals.Setcookinggrateinplace,cover,andopenlidventcompletely.Heatgrilluntilhotandteaissmoking,about5minutes.

4B.FORAGASGRILL:Placeteapacketdirectlyonprimaryburner.Turnallburners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot and tea is smoking, about 15minutes.Leaveprimaryburneronhighandturnotherburner(s)off.

5.Cleanandoilcookinggrate.Arrangeribs,meatysidedown,oncoolsideofgrillandcook,covered,untilribsaresmokyandedgesbegintochar,about30minutes.

6.Brushribswithglaze,flip,rotate,andbrushagain.Coverandcook,brushingwithglazeevery30minutes,untilribsarefullytenderandglazeisbrownedandsticky,1to1½hours.Transferribstocuttingboard, tentwithfoil,andletrestfor10minutes.Servewithreservedglaze.

TOMAKEAHEAD:Ribs andglaze canbe prepared through step 3 up to 2daysinadvance.Onceribsarecool,wraptightlyinfoilandrefrigerate.Transferglaze tomicrowave-safebowl,coverwithplasticwrap,and refrigerate.Beforeproceeding with step 4, allow ribs to stand at room temperature for 1 hour.Beforeproceedingwithstep6,microwaveglazeuntilwarm,about1minute.

BARBECUEDCOUNTRY-STYLERIBS

1 tablespoonsalt

2poundsbonelesscountry-styleporkribs,trimmed

¾



2 tablespoonspaprika


BarbecuedCountry-StyleRibsWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSBonelesscountry-styleribspresentseveral

cookingchallenges.Eachpiecenotonlyvarieswildlyfromthenext,butisalsoamishmashofleanwhitemeatandrichdarkmeat.Unfortunately, if theribsarecookedtooptimizethewhitemeat, thenthedarkmeatstaystough,andif theyarecookedtooptimizethedarkmeat,thewhitemeatturnsdry.Toevenoutthecooking,webrinedtheribssothatthewhitemeatwouldstayjuicyandpoundedtheribs toaneven¾-inch thickness to“breakdown”thefattierdarkmeat.Asforflavor,adoublelayerofbarbecuespiceandsauceandaquicksmokeonthegrillworkedwonders.Seethesidebarsthatfollowtherecipe.

SERVES4TO6

Foreasierpounding,cutanyribsthatarelongerthan5inchesinhalfcrosswise.

1 tablespoononionpowder

¾

teaspoonpepper

¼


6 tablespoonsketchup

1 tablespooncidervinegar

¼ cupwoodchips,soakedinwaterfor15minutesanddrained

1.Dissolvesaltin2cupscoldwaterinlargecontainer.Placeribs,cutsidedown,between2sheetsofplasticwrapandpoundto¾inchthickness.Submergeporkinbrine,cover,andrefrigeratefor30minutesto1hour.

2. Combine sugar, chili powder, paprika, drymustard, onion powder, pepper,andcayenneinshallowdish.Transferhalfofmixturetobowlandstirinketchupandvinegar;setaside.

3. Remove pork from brine and pat dry with paper towels. Dredge pork inremaining spicemixtureand transfer toplate.Using largepieceofheavy-dutyaluminumfoil,wrapsoakedchipsinfoilpacketandcutseveralventholesintop.

4A. FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL: Open bottom vent halfway. Light largechimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts).When top coals arepartiallycoveredwithash,pourevenlyoverhalfofgrill.Placewoodchippacketoncoals.Setcookinggrateinplace,cover,andopenlidventhalfway.Heatgrilluntilhotandwoodchipsaresmoking,about5minutes.

4B.FORAGASGRILL:Placewoodchippacketdirectlyonprimaryburner.Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot and wood chips aresmoking, about 15 minutes. Leave primary burner on high and turn otherburner(s)off.

5. Clean and oil cooking grate. Place pork on cool side of grill, cover(positioninglidventovermeatifusingcharcoal),andcookuntilmeatregisters125degrees,3to5minutes.Brushporkwithketchupmixtureandgrill,brushedside down, over hot side of grill until lightly charred, 2 to 3 minutes. Brushsecond sideofpork, flip, andgrilluntil lightlycharredandmeat registers145degrees,2 to3minutes.Transferpork toplatter, tent looselywith foil,and letrestfor5to10minutes.Serve.

COUNTRY-STYLERIBS

Country-styleribsaren’tribsatall.They’rewell-marbledporkchopscutfromthebladeendoftheloin. We bought dozens of these chops while testing this recipe and found that they wereinconsistentlyshapedandsized.What’smore,these“ribs”hadwidelyvaryingproportionsoflightand darkmeat. To help level the culinary playing field and ensure even cooking,we poundedeachpieceintoaneven¾inchthickness.

MISMATCHEDMEATEach“rib”containsbothlightanddarkmeat.

ENSURINGEVENCOOKING

The white and dark meat in country-style ribs cook at different rates—the white meat cooksquickly,while thedarkmeat is slower to tenderize.Toequalize them,webrinedandpounded.Brining kept thewhitemeat fromdrying out,while pounding the ribs thin let them cook faster,helpfulsincelongcookingtimesaccentuatedifferencesincooking.Thinkofafastcarandaslowcarstartingfromastoplightatthesametime.Thirtysecondsafterthelightturnsgreen,thetwocarswon’tbefarapart.Butafter10minutes,theywillbe.

SOUTHDAKOTACORNCOB-SMOKEDRIBS

SAUCE

1 cupketchup

¼

cupwater

1 tablespoonpepper

1 tablespoononionpowder

SouthDakotaCorncob-SmokedRibs WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Corncob-smoking, a South Dakota

specialty,mayseemodd,butitgivesmeatasubtlesmokinesshardwoodscan’tmatch. For barbecued ribs with mild, nutty sweetness, but without thecomplicatedbarbecuingrig,welayeredcharcoalonourgrillwithfreshcorncobs(withthekernelsremoved)andafoilpacketofcornmeal.Thecornmealgavetheribs an initial blast of smoky flavor, and the fresh cobs offered long-lastingsmoke and a nutty aroma. We basted the ribs with a simple ketchup-basedbarbecuesaucewithplentyofgarlicandsomeceleryseedsforsticky,sweetribsthatwecouldn’tgetenoughof.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES4TO6

Agasgrillcan’tdo thesecorncobribs justice,sopleaseusecharcoal.The testkitchen’sfavoriteketchupisHeinzOrganic.Touseupsomeoftheleftovercorn,tryourrecipeforSweetCornSpoonbread.


1 tablespoonlightcornsyrup

1 tablespoongranulatedgarlic

2 teaspoonsceleryseeds

½

teaspoonliquidsmoke

RIBS


1 teaspoonsalt

½

teaspoonpepper

2(2½-to3-pound)racksbabybackporkribs,trimmedandmembraneremoved

1 cupcornmeal

6corncobs,kernelsremovedandreservedforanotheruse


1. FOR THE SAUCE: Whisk all ingredients together in medium bowl; setaside.

2.FORTHERIBS:Combinesugar,salt,andpepperinbowl.Patribsdrywithpapertowelsandrubwithsugarmixture;setaside.Usinglargepieceofheavy-dutyaluminumfoil,wrapcornmeal infoilpacketandcutseveralventholes intop.

3.Openbottomventsofcharcoalgrillhalfway.Placedisposablepanon1sideofgrillandfillpanwith2quartswater.Arrange3quartsunlitcharcoalbriquetteson opposite side of grill. Place cobs on top of unlit briquettes. Light largechimney starter filled halfway with charcoal briquettes (3 quarts). When topcoalsarepartiallycoveredwithash,pourovercobsandunlitbriquettes.Placecornmealpacketoncoals.Setcookinggrate inplace,cover,andopen lidventhalfway.Heatgrilluntilhotandcornmealissmoking,about5minutes.

4. Clean and oil cooking grate. Place ribs,meat side up, on cool part of grilloppositecoals.Cover,positioninglidventoverribs,andcookuntilribsaredeepredand tender,3½ to4hours, rotatingandswitching ribseveryhour. (Donotflip ribs.) During last 30 minutes of cooking, baste ribs every 10 minutes,rotatingandswitchingribseachtime.Transferribstocarvingboard,tentlooselywith foil, and let rest for 15 to 20minutes.Cut ribs in betweenbones. Serve,passingremainingsauceseparately.

FAILEDCORNCOBTESTS

InSouthDakota,bushelsofdried,strippedcorncobsimpartaspecialflavortoribs.Toreplicateit,weleftnokernelunturned.ItwasAforeffort,buttheseattemptswereabust.

Sooty:Unhuskedearsofcorn.

Sooty:Huskedearswiththecornintact.

Toomuchwork:Husked,stripped,andoven-dried.

Burnttaste:Poppedpopcorn.

GRILLEDMUSTARD-GLAZEDPORKLOIN

½ cupwhole-grainmustard

6 tablespoonsapplejelly

2 tablespoonspackeddarkbrownsugar


1largegarlicclove,minced


GrilledMustard-GlazedPorkLoinWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSTwosurefirewaystodressupaporkroast

aretogiveitaflavorful,deeplycaramelizedcrustonthegrillandserveitwithasavory-sweetmustardglaze.Ourmustard-glazedporkloinhas thebestofbothworlds. Leaving our roast untrimmed addedmoisture and flavor—and scoringthe fat kept it from tasting too fatty. For themustard glaze, apple jellywas aperfectcomplementtothespicycrunchofgrainymustard,andbothmarriedwellwiththeotherglazeingredients—brownsugar,garlic,andfreshthyme.Tofullyinfuse our pork loinwithmustard flavor,we applied the glaze before, during,andaftergrilling.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES6TO8

Dijonandyellowmustardsalsoworkwellintheglaze,butmakecertaintouseapplejelly,notapplebutter.Lookforaporkroastwithabout¼inchoffatontopandtietheroastat1-inchintervalstoensureanevenshape.

¾

teaspoonpepper

½

teaspoonsalt

1boneless pork loin roast (2½ to 3 pounds), fat scored lightly, tied at 1-inchintervals

1.Whiskmustard, jelly, sugar, oil, garlic, thyme, pepper, and salt together inbowl.Measure out⅔ cup sauce and set aside for cooking; reserve remainingsauceforserving.Beforegrilling,patporkloindrywithpapertowelsandcoatitevenlywith⅓cupsauceforcooking.

2A. FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL: Open bottom vent halfway. Light largechimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts).When top coals arepartially coveredwith ash,pour evenlyoverhalfofgrill.Set cookinggrate inplace,cover,andopenlidventhalfway.Heatgrilluntilhot,about5minutes.

2B.FORAGASGRILL: Turn all the burners to high, cover, and heat grilluntil hot, about 15 minutes. Leave primary burner on high and turn otherburner(s) off. (Adjust primary burner as needed to maintain grill temperaturearound350degrees.)

3. Clean and oil cooking grate. Place pork loin on hot side of grill. Cook(coveredifusinggas)untilwellbrownedonallsides,12to15minutes,turningasneeded.

4. Flip pork loin fat side up and slide to cool side of grill.Brushporkwith 2tablespoons sauce for cooking. Cover (positioning lid vent over pork if usingcharcoal)andcontinuetocookuntilmeatregisters140degrees,25to40minuteslonger,brushingevery10minuteswithremainingsauceforcooking.

5.Transferporklointocarvingboard, tentlooselywithaluminumfoil,andletrest for 15 minutes. Remove twine, cut meat into ¼-inch-thick slices, andtransfer to serving platter.Whisk any accumulated juices into reserved sauce,spoonovermeat,andserve.

THEBENEFITSOFSCORING

Scoringfatmeansusingasharpknifetocutashallowcross-hatchpatternintothefatlayer.Usegentlepressureandavoidcuttingthroughthefatandintothemeat,whichwillresultinmoistureloss. Scoring helps the fat to render (basting the meat and keeping it moist as it cooks) andcreatesanunevensurfacethatholdstheglaze.

WOOD-GRILLEDSALMON

1½

teaspoonssugar

½

teaspoonsalt

¼

teaspoonpepper

4(6-to8-ounce)skin-onsalmonfillets,about1¼inchesthick


cupswoodchips,soakedinwaterfor15minutesanddrained

Wood-GrilledSalmonWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSTocreatetheflavorofcedarplanksinour

wood-grilled salmon (without having tomail-order them),we settled onwoodchipsandmadeindividualaluminumfoiltraystoholdthechipsandsalmon.Toprevent the salmon from sticking to thewood chips,we left the skin on, as iteasilyseparatedfromthecookedfish.Pokingafewslitsinthebottomofthefoilallowedmoreheattoreachthewoodchips,whichcausedthemtoreleasemoreoftheirwoodsy—butnotoverlysmoky—flavor.Coatingeachfilletwithathinlayerofoliveoilanda lightsprinklingofgranulatedsugarproducedagolden,mildlysweetexterior.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES4

Anyvarietyofwoodchipswillworkhere,butaromaticwoodssuchascedarandaldergivethemostauthenticflavor.

1. Combine sugar, salt, and pepper in bowl. Pat salmon fillets drywith papertowels,thenbrushfleshsideswithoilandrubevenlywithsugarmixture.Using4largesheetsofheavy-dutyaluminumfoil,crimpedgesofeachsheettomake4trays, eachmeasuring7by5 inches.Perforatebottomof each traywith tipofparingknife.Dividewoodchipsamongtraysandlay1filletskinsidedownontopofwoodchipsineachtray.



3.Cleanandoilcookinggrate.Placetraysongrill.Cook(coveredifusinggas)until center is still translucent when checked with tip of paring knife andregisters125degrees(formedium-rare),about10minutes.

4.Transfer trays towirerack, tent looselywithfoil,andletrestfor5minutes.Slidemetal spatulabetween skin and fleshof fish, transfer fish toplatter, andserve.

BARBECUEDWOOD-GRILLEDSALMONAdd¾teaspoonchilipowderand¼teaspooncayennepeppertosugarmixtureandsubstitute1tablespoonDijonmustardmixedwith1tablespoonmaplesyrupforoilinstep1.

LEMON-THYMEWOOD-GRILLEDSALMON

Add2teaspoonsmincedfreshthymeand1½teaspoonsgratedfreshlemonzesttosugarmixtureandsubstitute2tablespoonsDijonmustardforoilinstep1.

ANEASIERWAYTOPLANKEDSALMON

Cooking salmon on a cedar plank infuses it with gentle wood flavor rather than overwhelmingsmokiness.Here’showtogetthesamegreattaste,minusthemail-orderplank.

1.Crimp4sheetsoffoiltomaketrays.Usingparingknife,pokesmallslitsinbottomoftrays.

2.Place soakedwoodchips in foil traysandarrangesalmonskin sidedowndirectly on topofwoodchips.

3.Oncesalmoniscooked,slidemetalspatulabetweenfleshandskin;fishshouldreleaseeasily.

GRILLEDJALAPEÑOANDLIMESHRIMPSKEWERS

MARINADE

1–2 jalapeñochiles,stemmed,seeded,andchopped



1teaspoongratedlimezestplus5tablespoonsjuice(3limes)

½

teaspoongroundcumin

¼

GrilledJalapeñoandLimeShrimpSkewersWHY THIS RECIPEWORKS We wanted tender, juicy, shrimp with a

smoky, charred crust and chile flavor that was more than just superficial. Toachieve this, we sprinkled one side of the shrimp with sugar to promotebrowningandgrilledthissideoverthehotsideofthegrillforafewminutesandthen flipped the skewers to finishgently cookingon the cool sideof thegrill.Creatingaflavorfulmarinadethatdoubledasasaucegaveourshrimpskewersaspicy,assertivekick.Andbutterflyingtheshrimpbeforemarinatingandgrillingthem opened up more shrimp flesh for the marinade and finishing sauce toflavor.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES4

Wepreferflatmetalskewersthatareatleast14incheslongforthisrecipe.


½

teaspoonsalt

SHRIMP

1½ poundsextra-largeshrimp(21to25perpound),peeledanddeveined½

teaspoonsugar

1 tablespoonmincedfreshcilantro

1. FOR THE MARINADE: Process all ingredients in food processor untilsmooth,about15seconds.Reserve2 tablespoonsmarinade; transfer remainingmarinadetomediumbowl.

2.FORTHESHRIMP:Patshrimpdrywithpapertowels.Tobutterflyshrimp,useparingknifetomakeshallowcutdownoutsidecurveofshrimp.Addshrimpto bowl withmarinade and toss to coat. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30minutesorupto1hour.



4.Cleanandoilcookinggrate.Threadmarinatedshrimponskewers.(Alternatedirectionof each shrimpasyoupack them tightlyon skewer to allowabout adozenshrimptofitsnuglyoneachskewer.)Sprinkle1sideofskeweredshrimpwith sugar.Grill shrimp, sugared side down, over hot side of grill (covered ifusinggas),untillightlycharred,3to4minutes.Flipskewersandmovetocoolsideofgrill (ifusingcharcoal)or turnallburnersoff (ifusinggas),andcook,covered,untilothersideofshrimpisnolongertranslucent,1to2minutes.Usingtongs, slide shrimp into cleanmedium bowl and tosswith reservedmarinade.Sprinklewithcilantroandserve.

GRILLEDREDCHILEANDGINGERSHRIMPSKEWERSReplacemarinade with 1 to 3 seeded and chopped small red chiles (or jalapeños), 1mincedscallion,3tablespoonsricevinegar,2tablespoonssoysauce,1tablespoontoastedsesameoil,1tablespoongratedfreshginger,2teaspoonssugar,and1mincedgarlicclove.Prepareandgrillshrimpasdirected.Replacecilantrowith1thinlyslicedscallionandservewithlimewedges.

GRILLEDCARIBBEANSHRIMPSKEWERSReplacemarinadewith1to2seededandchoppedhabaneroorserranochiles,¼cuppineapplejuice,2tablespoonsoliveoil,1tablespoonwhitewinevinegar,3mincedgarliccloves,1teaspoongratedfreshginger,1teaspoonpackedbrownsugar,1teaspoondriedthyme,½teaspoonsalt,and¼ teaspoon ground allspice. Prepare and grill shrimp as directed. Replace cilantrowith 1tablespoonmincedfreshparsley.

HOWTOSKEWERSHRIMP

1.Makeshallowcutdownoutsidecurveofshrimptoopenupflesh.

2.Alternatedirectionofeachshrimpasyoupackthemtightlyonskewer.

GRILLEDCORNONTHECOB

Saltandpepper

8earscorn,husksandsilksremoved

8tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,softened,or1recipeflavoredbutter

GrilledCornontheCob WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS: Grilling corn sounds like a simple

proposition—butourresearchfounddozensofvariationsonthecookingmethodfor this classic summer vegetable. For a recipe that produced corn with adistinctlygrilledtasteandlightlycharredkernels,wegrilledthecornunhusked.(Tastersdidn’t like thegrassyflavor thecorn tookonwhenwegrilled it in itshusk.) The grill imparted great flavor to our grilled corn, but also made thekernelstoughanddry.Toavoidthis,wesoakedthehuskedcorninsaltedwaterbeforegrilling,whichkeptthekernelsmoistandseasonedthemaswell.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES4TO6

Ifyourcornisn’tassweetasyou’dlike,stir½cupofsugarintothewateralongwith thesalt.Avoidsoaking thecorn formore than8hours,or itwillbecomeoverlysalty.

1.Inlargepot,stir½cupsaltinto4quartscoldwateruntildissolved.Addcornandletsoakforatleast30minutesorupto8hours.



3.Clean and oil cooking grate.Grill corn, turning every 2 to 3minutes, untilkernelsare lightlycharredallover,10 to14minutes.Removecorn fromgrill,brushwithsoftenedbutter,andseasonwithsaltandpepper.Serve.

CHESAPEAKEBAYBUTTERMAKESABOUT8TABLESPOONS,ENOUGHFOR8EARSOFCORN

Usingfork,beat8tablespoonssoftened,unsaltedbutterwith1tablespoonhotsauce,1teaspoonOldBayseasoning,and1mincedgarlicclove.

LATIN-SPICEDBUTTERMAKESABOUT8TABLESPOONS,ENOUGHFOR8EARSOFCORN

Using fork, beat 8 tablespoons softened, unsalted butter with 1 teaspoon chili powder, ½teaspoongroundcumin,½teaspoongratedlimezest,and1mincedgarlicclove.(Sprinklecobswith½cupgratedParmesan,ifdesired.)

BASILPESTOBUTTER

MAKESABOUT8TABLESPOONS,ENOUGHFOR8EARSOFCORN

Using fork, beat 8 tablespoons softened, unsalted butter with 1 tablespoon basil pesto and 1teaspoonlemonjuice.

BARBECUE-SCALLIONBUTTERMAKESABOUT8TABLESPOONS,ENOUGHFOR8EARSOFCORN

Usingfork,beat8tablespoonssoftened,unsaltedbutterwith2tablespoonsbarbecuesauceand1mincedscallion.

AGOODSOAK

Thegrillimpartsgreatflavorbutcanmakecorntoughanddry.Soakingthehuskedcorninsaltedwaterkeepsthekernelsmoistandseasonsthem,too.

CALIFORNIABARBECUEDBEANS

4slicesbacon,choppedfine

½ pounddeliham,choppedfine

1onion,choppedfine


1poundpinkkidneybeans,soakedin6cupswaterovernightanddrained

CaliforniaBarbecuedBeansWHYTHISRECIPEWORKS California barbecued beans recipes use a

beanvarietyandchilisaucerarelyfoundoutsideofCalifornia.Wewantedtore-createthisrecipewithnationallyavailablesupermarketingredients.Pinkkidneybeans proved to be a good stand-in for the hard-to-find pinquito beans. Somerecipessuggestusingjarredtacosaucealoneiftheoriginalrecipe’srequisiteredchili saucecan’tbe found,butwe found its tasteand texture too thin. Instead,augmentingthesaucewithacombinationoffriedbacon,ham,onion,andgarlicwith tomato puree, brown sugar, and drymustard perfectly captured the chilisauce’sbite.Seethesidebarsthatfollowtherecipe.

SERVES4TO6

Ifyoucanfindthem,pinquitobeans(avarietygrownintheSantaMariaValley)aretraditionalinthisdish.BottledtacosauceisavailableintheMexicanaisleofmostgrocerystores.Don’taddthe tomatopuree, tacosauce,brownsugar,andsalt before the beans have simmered for an hour; they will hinder the propersofteningofthebeans.

6 cupswater

1 cupcannedtomatopuree

½

cupbottledtacosauce



Salt

¼



1.CookbaconandhaminDutchovenovermediumheatuntil fat rendersandbaconandhamare lightlybrowned,5 to7minutes.Addonionandcookuntilsoftened, about 5 minutes. Stir in garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30seconds.Addbeansandwaterandbringtosimmer.Reduceheattomedium-low,cover,andcookuntilbeansarejustsoft,about1hour.

2. Stir in tomato puree, taco sauce, sugar, drymustard, and 2 teaspoons salt.Continue tosimmer,uncovered,untilbeansarecompletely tenderandsauce isthickened, about 1 hour. (If mixture becomes too thick, add water.) Stir incilantroandvinegarandseasonwithsalt.Serve.(Beanscanberefrigeratedforupto4days.)

SORTINGDRIEDBEANS

Itisimportanttorinseandpickoverdriedbeanstoremoveanystonesordebrisbeforecooking.Tomake the taskeasier,sortdriedbeansona largewhiteplateoronawhite, rimmedcuttingboard.Theneutralbackgroundmakesanyunwantedmatteracinchtospotanddiscard.

QUICK-SOAKINGBEANS

Ifyoudon’twanttosoakthebeansovernight,thereisafasterway.Simplycoverthebeanswithwater in a Dutch oven, bring them to a boil over high heat, and let them boil for 5 minutes.Removethebeansfromtheheatandallowthemtosit,covered,inthehotwaterfor1hour.Drainthebeansandproceedwiththerecipeasdirected.Thequick-soakedbeanstastejustasgoodasbeansthataresoakedovernight.

GRILLEDPOTATOHOBOPACKS

2poundsYukonGoldpotatoes(about3large),scrubbed


2garliccloves,peeledandchopped


1 teaspoonsalt

½

teaspoonpepper

GrilledPotatoHoboPacksWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSWewantedtorescuethiscampfireclassic,

whichtoooftenresultsinunevenlycookedspuds.Aftermultipletests,wefoundthatYukonGoldswere preferred to starchy,mealy russets and “slippery” redpotatoes. To ensure evenly grilled potatoes, we cut them into evenly sizedwedgesandmicrowaved themfora fewminutesbeforegrilling them.Tossingthe potatoeswith a little oil prevented them from sticking to the foil. See thesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES4

Tokeepthepacksfromtearing,useheavy-dutyaluminumfoilortwolayersofregularfoil.Also,scrapethecookinggratecleanbeforegrilling.

1. Cut each potato in half crosswise, then cut each half into 8wedges. Placepotatoesinlargebowlandwraptightlywithplasticwrap.Microwaveuntiledgesof potatoes are translucent, 4 to 7 minutes, shaking bowl (without removingplastic) to redistribute potatoes halfway through cooking. Carefully removeplastic and drain well. Gently toss potatoes with oil, garlic, thyme, salt, andpepper.

2.Cutfour14by10-inchsheetsofheavy-dutyaluminumfoil.Workingwith1ata time, spread one-quarter of potato mixture over half of foil, fold foil overpotatoes,andcrimpedgestightlytoseal.


3B. FORAGASGRILL: Turn all burners tomedium-high, cover, and heatgrilluntilhot,about15minutes.

4.Grillhobopacksoverhotfire,covered,untilpotatoesarecompletelytender,about 10minutes, flipping packs halfway through cooking. Cut open foil andserve.

SPANISH-STYLEGRILLEDPOTATOHOBOPACKSPrepare Grilled Potato Hobo Packs, adding 6 ounces thinly sliced cured chorizo sausage, 1seededand chopped red bell pepper, and1 teaspoonpaprika to cookedpotatoesas they aretossedinstep1.

VINEGARANDONIONGRILLEDPOTATOHOBOPACKSPrepare Grilled Potato Hobo Packs, microwaving 1 halved and thinly sliced small onion withpotatoesinstep1.Add2tablespoonswhitewineorredwinevinegartocookedpotatoesastheyaretossedinstep1.

SPICYHOMEFRYGRILLEDPOTATOHOBOPACKSPrepareGrilledPotatoHoboPacks,omittingchoppedgarlic.Add1teaspoonpaprika,½teaspoongarlicpowder,½teaspoononionpowder,and¼teaspooncayennepeppertocookedpotatoesastheyaretossedinstep1.

MAKINGPOTATOHOBOPACKS

1.Microwavepotatoesfirsttohelpthemcookquicklyonthegrill.

2.Arrangemicrowavedpotatoesonfoil,foldover,andcrimp.

3.Flippackshalfwaythroughgrillingforevenlycharredpotatoes.

GRILLEDCAESARSALAD

DRESSING


1garlicclove,minced

½

cupmayonnaise

½ ounceParmesancheese,grated(¼cup)

1 tablespoonwhitewinevinegar

GrilledCaesarSaladWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSGrilledsaladmayseemlikeanoxymoron,

but we were intrigued by the idea of the flavors of a classic Caesar saladenrichedwiththesmokycharofthegrill.Wefoundthatcompactromaineheartsheldtheirshapebetterthanwholeheads.Wehalvedthemlengthwisetoincreasetheir surfacearea,makingsure tokeep thecore intact so the leavesdidn’t fallapartonthegrill.Topreventsticking,webrushedtheleaveswithdressing.Just1to2minutesoverahotgrillgaveusasmokyandcharred(notwilted)exterior.To keep things simple, we replaced the croutons with slices of crusty breadgrilledalongsidethelettuce.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES6

OurfavoriteParmesancheeseisBoar’sHeadParmigiano-Reggiano.



2anchovyfillets,rinsed

½

teaspoonsalt

½

teaspoonpepper

¼ cupextra-virginoliveoil

SALAD

1(12-inch)baguette,cutonbiasinto5-inch-long,½-inch-thickslices


1garlicclove,peeled

3romainelettucehearts(18ounces),halvedlengthwisethroughcores

½ ounceParmesancheese,grated(¼cup)

1. FOR THEDRESSING: Combine lemon juice and garlic in bowl and letstand for 10 minutes. Process mayonnaise, Parmesan, lemon-garlic mixture,vinegar, Worcestershire, mustard, anchovies, salt, and pepper in blender forabout30seconds.Withblenderrunning,slowlyaddoil.Reserve6tablespoonsdressingforbrushingromaine.


2B.FORAGASGRILL:Turnallburners tohigh,cover,andheatgrilluntilhot,about15minutes.Leaveallburnersonhigh.

3.FORTHESALAD:Cleanandoilcookinggrate.Brushbreadwithoilandgrill(overcoalsifusingcharcoal),uncovered,untilbrowned,about1minuteperside.Transfer to platter and rubwith garlic clove.Brush cut sides of romainewithreserveddressing;placehalfofromaine,cutsidedown,ongrill(overcoalsifusingcharcoal).Grill,uncovered,untillightlycharred,1to2minutes.Movetoplatterwithbread.Repeat.Drizzleromainewithremainingdressing.SprinklewithParmesan.Serve.

SALADPREPFORGRILLEDCAESAR

Wegettwicetheflavorbyusingthedressingbeforeandaftergrilling.

1.BrushhomemadeCaesardressingontohalvedromaineheartsbeforegrilling.

2.Grilldressedromainehalvesonjustonesidetokeeplettucefromwilting.

3.Oncecharredlettucecomesoffgrill,finishitwithmoreCaesardressing.

TANGYAPPLECABBAGESLAW

1mediumheadgreencabbage(2pounds),coredandchoppedfine(12cups)

2 teaspoonssalt

2GrannySmithapples,coredandcutintothinmatchsticks



TangyAppleCabbageSlawWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSWewantedtodiscoverthesecretstotender

cabbage, crunchy apples, and the sweet and spicy dressing that brings themtogether in this Southern barbecue side dish. Because cabbage is relativelywatery,wesaltedthecutcabbagetodrawoutexcessmoisturebeforedressingit,whichpreventedmoisturefromdilutingthedressinglaterandleavinguswithawateryslaw.GrannySmithapplesworkbest in thisslawrecipe—tasters lovedtheirsturdycrunchandtartbite.Cidervinegargavethedressingafruityflavor,whileredpepperflakes,choppedscallions,andmustardaddedsomepunch.Seethesidebarsthatfollowtherecipe.

SERVES6TO8

Instep1, thesalted, rinsed,anddriedcabbagecanbe refrigerated inazipper-lockbagforupto24hours.Topreptheapples,cutthecoredapplesinto¼-inch-thickplanks,thenstacktheplanksandcutthemintothinmatchsticks.

½ cupcidervinegar

½

cupsugar


¼


1. Toss cabbage and salt in colander set over medium bowl. Let stand untilwilted,about1hour.Rinsecabbageundercoldwater,drain,drywellwithpapertowels,andtransfertolargebowl.Addapplesandscallionsandtosstocombine.

2.Bringoil,vinegar,sugar,mustard,andpepperflakestoboilinsaucepanovermedium heat. Pour over cabbagemixture and toss to coat. Coverwith plasticwrapandrefrigerateatleast1hourorupto1day.Serve.

CUTTINGAPPLESFORSLAW

1.Cutcoredapplesinto¼-inch-thickplanks.

2.Stackplanksandcutthemintothinmatchsticks.

VINEGARPRIMER

Although cider vinegar and white vinegar aremade by the same process, the similarities endthere.Vinegar ismadeby turning fermented liquid intoaceticacidbyaddingcertainbacteria tothe liquid. Cider and distilled vinegars are made by the same process but start with differentliquids:Cidervinegarbeginswithapplecideranddistilledvinegarwithethylalcohol(alsoknownas grain alcohol). Although both vinegars are commonly used in pickle recipes (and are oftensubstitutedforeachother),theydohavedistinctlydifferentflavors.Weliketousesweetercidervinegarinsweetpickles,reservingwhitevinegarforapplicationssuchassourpickles,wherewewantaciditywithoutaddedflavor.Whilecidervinegarisfineinasweetsaladdressing,wedon’tthinkdistilledvinegaraddsmuchtoanydressing.Ingeneral,wefindthatvinegarsthatstartwithwinearethebestchoiceforsaladdressings.

CIDERVINEGARSweetcidervinegarbeginswithapplecider.

DISTILLEDVINEGARAcidicdistilledvinegarbeginswithethylalcohol.

MEMPHISCHOPPEDCOLESLAW

1headgreencabbage(2pounds),coredandchoppedfine(12cups)

1jalapeñochile,stemmed,seeded,andminced

1carrot,peeledandshreddedonboxgrater

1smallonion,peeledandshreddedonboxgrater

2 teaspoonssalt

¼

MemphisChoppedColeslawWHY THIS RECIPE WORKS The high water content of cabbage is

typically to blame for watery slaws. We salted our cabbage to draw out theexcess moisture. Memphis Chopped Coleslaw is usually studded with celeryseeds and crunchy green peppers and tossed with an unapologetically sugarymustarddressingthat’sbalancedbyabracinghitofvinegar.Toensureourslawboastedbrash,balancedflavor,wequicklycookedthespicydressingtomeldtheflavors and tossed the hot dressing with the cabbage. The salted cabbageabsorbedthedressingandbecameseasonedinsideandout.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES8TO10

Instep1, thesalted,rinsed,anddriedcabbagemixturecanberefrigeratedinazipper-lockbagforupto24hours.

cupyellowmustard

¼

cupchilisauce

¼

cupmayonnaise

¼

cupsourcream

¼

cupcidervinegar

1 teaspoonceleryseeds

⅔


1.Tosscabbage, jalapeño, carrot,onion, and salt in colander setovermediumbowl. Let stand untilwilted, about 1 hour. Rinse cabbagemixture under coldwater,drain,drywellwithpapertowels,andtransfertolargebowl.

2.Bringmustard,chilisauce,mayonnaise,sourcream,vinegar,celeryseeds,andsugartoboilinsaucepanovermediumheat.Pourovercabbageandtosstocoat.Coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerate1hourorupto1day.Serve.

HOWTOCHOPCABBAGE

1.Cutthecabbageintoquarters,thentrimanddiscardthehardcore.

2.Separatethecabbageintosmallstacksofleavesthatflattenwhenpressed.

3.Cuteachstackofcabbageleavesinto¼-inchstrips.

4.Cutthestripsinto¼-inchpieces.

ALL-AMERICANPOTATOSALAD

2 largeeggs

Salt

2poundsYukonGoldpotatoes,peeledandcutinto¾-inchcubes

3tablespoonsdillpicklejuice,plus¼cupfinelychoppeddillpickles

1 tablespoonyellowmustard

All-AmericanPotatoSaladWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSForflavorfulall-Americanpotatosalad,we

decidedtousefirm-texturedYukonGoldpotatoesbecausetheyholdtheirshapeaftercookingandwon’tturnmushyinthesalad.Ourrecipebenefitedfromthesweetnessofanunexpectedingredient:picklejuice.Wedrizzledthestill-warmpotatoes with a mixture of pickle juice and mustard. The hot potatoes easilyabsorbed the acidic liquid and tasted seasoned through to the middle. Acombination of mayonnaise and sour cream formed the base of our creamydressing,seasonedwithclassicadditionslikeceleryseeds,celery,andchoppedhard-cookedeggs.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES4TO6

Makesurenottoovercookthepotatoesorthesaladwillbequitesloppy.Keepthe water at a gentle simmer and use the tip of a paring knife to judge thedonenessof thepotatoes. If theknife insertseasily into thepotatopieces, theyaredone.

¼

teaspoonpepper

½

teaspoonceleryseeds

½

cupmayonnaise

¼

cupsourcream

½ smallredonion,choppedfine


1.Bringeggs,1½ teaspoons salt, and1quartwater toboil in small saucepan.Removepanfromheat,coverandletsitfor10minutes.Transfereggstobowlfilledwithicewaterandletcoolfor5minutes,thenpeelandchopcoarse.

2.Placepotatoesinlargesaucepanwithcoldwatertocoverby1inch.Bringtoboiloverhighheat,add1teaspoonsalt,reduceheattomedium-low,andsimmeruntilpotatoesaretender,10to15minutes.

3.Drain potatoes thoroughly, then spread out on rimmedbaking sheet.Mix 2tablespoonspicklejuiceandmustardtogetherinsmallbowl,drizzlepicklejuicemixtureoverhotpotatoes,andtossuntilevenlycoated.Refrigerateuntilcooled,about30minutes.

4. Mix remaining tablespoon pickle juice, chopped pickles, ½ teaspoon salt,pepper, celery seeds, mayonnaise, sour cream, red onion, and celery in largebowl.Tossincooledpotatoes,cover,andrefrigerateuntilwellchilled,about30minutes. (Salad can be refrigerated for up to 2 days.)Gently stir in eggs, justbeforeserving.

DON’TTHROWOUTTHEJUICE

Pickle juice tossedwith just-cooked potatoes gives them a tangy flavor that’s not as harsh asstraightvinegarandhasagentlesweetness,too.

AMISHPOTATOSALAD

3poundsYukonGoldpotatoes,peeledandcutinto¾-inchchunks

Saltandpepper

⅓

cupcidervinegar

¼

cupsugar

2 tablespoonsyellowmustard

AmishPotatoSaladWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSAmishpotatosaladisdistinctforitscreamy

cooked dressing and sweet-and-sour flavor. We modernized this recipe byditching the labor-intensivedressing,which is traditionally enrichedwith eggsandgentlycookedoveradouble-boiler.Tokeep the rich tastewith lesswork,we processed a hard-cooked egg yolk into the dressing base of vinegar andsugar.Sprinklingafewtablespoonsofthetangydressingoverthehotpotatoesinfusedthemwithflavor.Thenwetossedthecooledpotatoeswiththerestofthedressing, enrichedwith sour cream, for a cool, creamypotato saladwithgreatold-fashionedflavor.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES8

Youcansubstituteanequalamountofcelerysaltfortheceleryseed,butifyoudo, eliminate the table salt from the dressing.Make sure to use sturdyYukonGoldshere;fluffyrussetswillfallapartinthesalad.

4 largehard-cookedeggs,peeled(recipefollows)

½

teaspoonceleryseed

¾

cupsourcream


1.Bringpotatoes,1tablespoonsalt,andenoughwatertocoverby1inchtoboilin largepotoverhighheat.Reduceheat tomediumandsimmeruntilpotatoesarejusttender,about10minutes.

2.Meanwhile,microwavevinegarandsugarinsmallbowluntilsugardissolves,about 30 seconds. Process vinegar mixture, mustard, 1 hard-cooked egg yolk(reservewhite),celeryseed,and½teaspoonsaltinfoodprocessoruntilsmooth,about30seconds.Transfertomediumbowl.

3.Drainpotatoes thoroughly and transfer to largebowl.Drizzle2 tablespoonsdressing over hot potatoes and, using rubber spatula, gently toss until evenlycoated. Refrigerate until cooled, at least 30 minutes, stirring gently once toredistributedressing.

4.Whisk sour cream into remainingdressing.Add remainingeggwhite and3hard-cooked eggs to dressing and, using potatomasher,mash until only smallpieces remain. Add dressing and celery to cooled potatoes, tossing gently tocombine.Coverandrefrigerateuntilchilled,about30minutes.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Serve.(Saladcanberefrigeratedforupto2days.)

4 largeeggs

FOOLPROOFHARD-COOKEDEGGS

MAKES4EGGS

Youcandoubleortriplethisrecipeaslongasyouuseapotlargeenoughtoholdtheeggsinasinglelater,coveredbyaninchofwater.

Bring eggs and enoughwater to cover by 1 inch to boil inmedium saucepan over high heat.Removepan fromheat,cover,and letsit10minutes.Meanwhile, fillmediumbowlwith4cupswater and 1 tray of ice cubes. Transfer eggs to icewater bathwith slotted spoon; let sit for 5minutes.Peeleggs.

SWEETONSWEET-AND-SOUR

LikemostotherresourcefulColonialAmericans,theAmishturnedtopicklingasawaytopreservefruitsandvegetablesfor long(prerefrigeration)winters.Itwasn’t justpracticalitythatdrovethemtopickling,however.TheAmishpeople’spenchantforthesesweet-and-sourflavorsisalsorootedin thegroup’snativeGermany,where richdishesareoften finishedwithasplashofvinegarorservedwith vinegar-spiked sides, suchas sauerkraut. TheAmish table, it’s said, is incompletewithout “seven sweets and seven sours.” A cornucopia of delicious foods reflects this Amishpredilection,fromwatermelonrindandcantaloupepicklestochowchow,pickledbeetsandeggs,andAmishpotatosalad,whichisseasonedwithplentyofvinegarandsugar.

RANCHPOTATOSALAD

3poundsredpotatoes,peeledandcutinto¾-inchchunks

Salt

¾

cupmayonnaise

½

cupbuttermilk

¼

cupwhitewinevinegar

¼ cupdrainedjarredroastedredpeppers,choppedfine

RanchPotatoSaladWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSBottledranchdressingsoundslikeaquick

waytodressuppotatosalad,butmanyrecipesaresurprisinglydullandbland.Wefoundthatpeelingthepotatoes(welikedredspuds)allowedthemtoabsorbmoredressing.Forthedressing,wedoubledtheamountofcilantrousedinmostrecipesandaddedfreshgarlicandscallionsforawelcomebite.Dijonmustardandvinegarprovidedacidityandbite,whilechoppedroastedredpeppersmadeasweetcounterpoint.Tobetterseasonthepotatoes,wetossedthehotspudsfirstwithjusttheDijonmustardandvinegar.Andjustadashofdrieddilllentmoreherbflavor.Seethesidebarsthatfollowtherecipe.

SERVES6TO8

Wepreferwhitewinevinegarhere,butwhiteandcidervinegarsareacceptablesubstitutes.

3 tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshcilantro

3scallions,choppedfine

1garlicclove,minced

⅛

teaspoondrieddill

2 teaspoonspepper


1.Bring potatoes, 1 tablespoon salt, and enoughwater to cover potatoes by 1inchtoboilinlargepotoverhighheat.Reduceheattomediumandsimmeruntilpotatoes are just tender, about 10 minutes. While potatoes simmer, whiskmayonnaise,buttermilk,2 tablespoonsvinegar, redpeppers, cilantro, scallions,garlic,dill,1teaspoonsalt,andpepperinlargebowl.

2.Drain potatoes thoroughly, then spreadout on rimmedbaking sheet.Whiskmustardandremainingvinegarinsmallbowl.Drizzlemustardmixtureoverhotpotatoesandtossuntilevenlycoated.Refrigerateuntilcooled,about30minutes.

3. Transfer cooled potatoes to bowl with mayonnaise mixture and toss tocombine. Cover and refrigerate until well chilled, about 30 minutes. Serve.(Saladcanberefrigeratedforupto2days.)

BETTERPOTATOTEXTURE,ANDFASTER,TOO

WediscoveredsomeinterestinginformationaboutboilingpotatoeswhiledevelopingourrecipeforRanchPotatoSalad.Mostrecipesforboiledpotatoescallforstartingthespudsincoldwatersothattheywillcomeuptotemperatureslowlyandcookevenlythroughout.Inanattempttoshortenthecookingtime,wetriedlettingthewaterboilbeforeaddingthepotatoes.Inaside-by-sidetest,weweren’tsurprised that tasterspreferred thepotatoesstarted incoldwater for theiruniformlycreamy texture. We were surprised, however, to find that the total cooking time for potatoesstartedincoldwaterwaslessthanforthosestartedinboilingwater.

HIDDENVALLEYRANCHDRESSING

Theoriginal ranchdressing firstbecamepopularat theHiddenValleyGuestRanchnearSantaBarbara,Calif.,inthelate1950s.ItbeganasadriedherbmixturethatSteveHenson,theranch’sowner, combined with mayonnaise and buttermilk to make a creamy, tangy dressing for theranch’shousesalad. Itwassowell received thatguestsclamored forbottlesof thedressing totakehomewiththem.Recognizingthepotentialofhisconcoction,Hensonbeganmarketingthemix insmallpackets,and the rest is culinaryhistory.The littlepacketsarestill around,but thedressingreallytookoffin1983whenmanufacturersfiguredouthowtobottlethiscreamydressinginashelf-stableformat.

DILLPOTATOSALAD

¼

cupwhitewinevinegar

3tablespoonsmincedfreshdill,plus½cupleavesandstems,choppedcoarse

3poundsYukonGoldpotatoes,peeledandcutinto¾-inchpieces

Saltandpepper

½

cupmayonnaise

¼

cupsourcream

DillPotatoSaladWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSWewanted potato saladwith vibrant dill

flavor throughand through.Todoso,weseasonedourpotatosaladwith threerounds of dill: first as an herb sachet while the potatoes simmered, next as apiquant dill vinegar, and finally as a fresh sprinkle. A dressing based on acombinationofcreamymayonnaiseandtangysourcream,accentedwithDijonmustard, provided the perfect backdrop for our dill flavor to shine. See thesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES8

Useboth dill stems and chopped leaves (sometimes called fronds) in the herbsachet.GreyPouponisourfavoritebrandofDijonmustard.


3scallions,greenpartsonly,slicedthin

1.Combinevinegarand1tablespoonminceddill inbowlandmicrowaveuntilsteaming,30to60seconds.Setatroomtemperatureuntilcool,15to20minutes.

2.Meanwhile, place choppeddill insidedisposable coffee filter and tie closedwith kitchen twine. Bring potatoes, dill sachet, 1 tablespoon salt, and enoughwatertocoverpotatoesby1inchtoboilinlargepotoverhighheat.Reduceheattomediumandsimmeruntilpotatoesarejusttender,about10minutes.

3.Drainpotatoesthoroughly,thentransfertolargebowl;discardsachet.Drizzle2tablespoonsdillvinegaroverhotpotatoesandgentlytossuntilevenlycoated.Refrigerateuntilcooled,about30minutes,stirringonce.

4.Whiskmayonnaise,sourcream,remainingdillvinegar,mustard,½teaspoonsalt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper together until smooth. Add dressing to cooledpotatoes.Stir in scallions and remaining2 tablespoonsminceddill.Cover andrefrigeratetoletflavorsmeld,about30minutes.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Serve.(Saladcanberefrigeratedforupto2days.)

DILLTHREEWAYS

ThreeroundsoffreshdillseasonourDillPotatoSalad.

INFUSEWeaddapacketofchoppeddilltothewaterinwhichthepotatoessimmer.

MARINATEWesteepvinegarwithminceddillanduseittodressthehotpotatoes.

MINCEWesprinkleextraminceddilloverthedressedpotatosalad.

TEXASPOTATOSALAD

½

cupredwinevinegar

1½

tablespoonssugar

Saltandpepper

1 teaspoonyellowmustardseeds

½ smallredonion,slicedthin

2jalapeñochiles(1slicedintothinrings;1stemmed,seeded,andminced)

poundsYukonGoldpotatoes,peeledandcutinto¾-inchpieces

TexasPotatoSaladWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSTexans take their potato saladup a notch

withaheftydoseofmustardandspicychoppedjalapeños.Forourversion,westartedwithclassicpotatosalad,usingfirmYukonGoldpotatoes,whichhavearich earthy flavor andhold their shape after cooking, and amayonnaise-baseddressing seasonedwithonion, celery seeds, anddill pickles.To thisweaddedplentyofboldyellowmustardandspicyjalapeños.Wetemperedthejalapeños’raw bite by quick-pickling them in a mixture of vinegar, sugar, and mustardseeds.Weusedtheleftoverpicklingsolutiontoflavorthehotpotatoes.Apinchofcayenneaddedextrakick.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES8

Annie’s Naturals Organic Yellow Mustard is our favorite brand of yellowmustard.

3

6 tablespoonsmayonnaise

6 tablespoonsyellowmustard

¼


2largehard-cookedeggs,cutinto¼-inchpieces

1celeryrib,minced

1.Combine vinegar, sugar, 1½ teaspoons salt, andmustard seeds in bowl andmicrowave until steaming, about 2 minutes. Whisk until sugar and salt aredissolved.Addonionand jalapeñosandsetasideuntilcool,15 to20minutes.Strain onion and jalapeños through fine-mesh strainer set over bowl. Reservepickledvegetablesandvinegarmixtureseparately.

2.Meanwhile,combinepotatoes,8cupswater,and1 tablespoonsalt inDutchovenandbringtoboiloverhighheat.Reduceheattomediumandsimmeruntilpotatoesarejusttender,10to15minutes.

3.Drainpotatoesthoroughly,thentransfertolargebowl.Drizzle2tablespoonsreservedvinegarmixtureoverhotpotatoesandtossgentlyuntilevenlycoated.(Reserve remaining vinegar mixture for another use.) Refrigerate until cool,about30minutes,stirringoncehalfwaythroughchilling.

4. Whisk mayonnaise, mustard, ½ teaspoon pepper, and cayenne together inbowl until combined. Add mayonnaise mixture, reserved pickled vegetables,eggs, and celery to potatoes and stir gently to combine. Seasonwith salt andpepper to taste. Cover and refrigerate to let flavors blend, about 30 minutes.Serve.(Saladcanberefrigeratedforupto2days.)

KEEPINGPOTATOSALADSAFE

Thoughmayonnaiseisoftenblamedforspoiledpotatosalads,itisrarelytheproblem.Infact,it’sthepotatoes thataremore likely togobad.Thebacteriausually responsible forspoiledpotatosaladisfoundinsoilanddust,anditthrivesonstarchyfoodslikepotatoes.Nomatterwhatkindofdressingyouuse,don’t leaveanypotatosaladout formore than twohours (onehour if thetemperatureisabove90degrees),andpromptlyrefrigerateanyleftoversinacoveredcontainer.

CHAPTER 8: RISE-AND-SHINEBREAKFASTANDBREADS

Better-Than-the-BoxPancakeMix

FluffyCornmealPancakes

DutchBaby

Beignets

FluffyDiner-StyleCheeseOmelet

“Impossible”Ham-and-CheesePie

HomemadeBreakfastSausage

Short-OrderHomeFries

CornmealBiscuits

CatHeadBiscuits

Southern-StyleSkilletCornbread

PerfectPopovers

MorningGloryMuffins

UltimateCinnamonBuns

QuickerCinnamonBuns

MorningBuns

MonkeyBread

EnglishMuffinBread

BrownSodaBread

DakotaBread

Intherushtogetoutthedoormostmornings,manyAmericansturntoaquick,easybreakfastlikeabowlofcerealoragrab-and-gobreakfastbar.Sit-down,hotbreakfastsarereservedforleisurelyweekendmornings.Ourforebears,however,often required a substantial breakfast to fuel them through a labor-intensivemorning—and there was little leisure associated with it. In her 1869 novelOldtownFolks,HarrietBeecherStowedescribedbreakfastfromtheperspectiveofoneof thecharacters,whowasrecallingabreakfastfromtheRevolutionaryWarperiodinMassachusetts:“…IcaninformallwhomitmayconcernthatryeandIndianbreadsmokinghot,onacoldwintermorning, togetherwithsavorysausages, pork, and beans, formed a breakfast fit for a king, if the king hadearneditbygettingupinacoldroom,washinginice-water, tumblingthroughsnow-drifts,andfodderingcattle.”Toward the end of the 19th century, American breakfast began to change

significantly as the nation industrialized and its citizens soughtwork in cities.Anincreasingawarenessofthehealthconsequencesofameat-heavydiet,pairedwith a less active lifestyle, helped to drive the success of prepared breakfastcereals,whichalsofulfilledanotherconcernoftheindustrialage—convenience.

Inthischapter,weskipbreakfastcerealandinsteadtakealookatsomemoresatisfying tried-and-true breakfast favorites such as pancakes (with a nod toconvenience,wecreatea recipeaseasyasamix,but far tastier),adiner-styleomelet (whygoout forbreakfastwhenwecanshowyouhowtoget thesameresults at home?), and buttery, sweetmorning buns (just like those from yourfavoritebakery,butsomucheasier).Putonthecoffeeandgetreadytoriseandshine.

BETTER-THAN-THE-BOXPANCAKEMIX


2cups(8ounces)cakeflour

1cup(3ounces)nonfatdrymilkpowder

¾ cup(3⅓ounces)maltedmilkpowder⅓ cup(2⅓ounces)sugar

2 tablespoonsbakingpowder

1 teaspoonbakingsoda

Better-Than-the-BoxPancakeMixWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSForour takeonpancakemix thatdelivers

both store-bought ease and from-scratch taste, we combined all-purpose flourwithcakeflour;thisduoyieldedsturdyyettendercakes.Togivepancakesmadefrom our mix complexity and depth, we added an unusual ingredient, maltedmilkpowder,whichimpartedasweet,nuttyflavor.Thoughmostmixescallforshortening,weoptedforbutter,whichgaveusmoister,moreflavorfulpancakes.Using buttermilk instead of milk when mixing the batter gave us high-risingpancakes—the acid of the buttermilk reactswith the baking soda, causing thebattertobubbleandrise.Seethesidebarsthatfollowtherecipe.

MAKESABOUT6CUPS,ENOUGHFOR24PANCAKES

Maltedmilkpowdermight seemoddhere, but it gives thepancakes adeeper,morecomplexflavor.

1 tablespoonsalt

12tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,cutinto½-inchpieces

Process all ingredients in food processor until no lumps remain and mixtureresembleswet sand, about 2minutes. (Pancakemix canbe frozen for up to 2months.)

BETTER-THAN-THE-BOXPANCAKESTo make 8 pancakes, whisk 2 cups Better-Than-the-Box Pancake Mix, 2 lightly beaten largeeggs,and½cupbuttermilkinlargebowluntilsmooth.Using¼-cupmeasure,portionbatterintolightly oiled12-inchnonstick skillet or griddle in 4 placesand cookovermedium-lowheat untilgoldenbrown,about2minutesperside.Repeatwithremainingbatter.Serve.(Ifyoudon’thavebuttermilk,whisk1½teaspoonslemonjuiceorwhitevinegarinto½cupwholeorlow-fatmilkandletsituntilslightlythickened,about10minutes.)

NOTJUSTFORMILKSHAKES

To give our pancakes complexity and depth, we added malted milk powder to the mix. Thisproduct ismade frommalted barley that has been evaporated and pulverized, and sometimesincludesflourorevaporatedmilkpowder.Thoughitismorecommonlyusedtomakemilkshakes,we found it added a sweet, nutty flavor to the pancakes made from our Better-Than-the-BoxPancakeMix.

ISTHEPANREADYFORPANCAKES?

Aproperlyheatedpanorgriddleisessentialtomakingperfect,golden-brown,fluffypancakes.Askillet that has not been properly heated and is too cool will produce pale, gummy pancakes.Here’satest tomakesureyourpan ishotenough:Dropatablespoonofbatter in itscenter. If,afteroneminute,thepancakeisgoldenbrownonthebottom,thepanisready.Ifitremainsblond—orisclosetoburning—adjusttheheataccordingly.

PALE,GUMMYPANCAKE

PERFECT,FLUFFYPANCAKE

FLUFFYCORNMEALPANCAKES

1¾

cupsbuttermilk

1¼ cups(6¼ounces)cornmeal

2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,cutinto¼-inchpieces

¾ cup(3¾ounces)all-purposeflour

2 tablespoonssugar

1¾

teaspoonsbakingpowder

½

teaspoonbakingsoda

½

FluffyCornmealPancakes WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Getting the height and lightness of

traditionalpancakeswiththerobustflavorandtextureofcornmealpancakesistougherthanitseems.Coarselygroundcornmealcanbesandy,anditlackstheglutennecessary tosupporta fluffy internalstructure.Wefound thatwecouldusemore cornmealbyheating itwith someof thebuttermilk to soften it first.Soakingthecornmealalsothickenedthebatter,helpingitridehigherinthepaninsteadofspreadingout.Lettingthebattersitforafewminutesbeforegriddlingthecakesallowedthebuttermilktoreactwiththebakingsoda,whichresultedinfluffier,airierpancakes.Seethesidebarsthatfollowtherecipe.

MAKESABOUT15(4-INCH)PANCAKES

OurfavoritecornmealisArrowheadMillsWhole-GrainCornmeal.

teaspoonsalt

2 largeeggs

2½

teaspoonsvegetableoil

1.Adjustovenrack tomiddlepositionandheatoven to200degrees.Setwirerackinsiderimmedbakingsheetandplace inoven.Whisk1¼cupsbuttermilkand cornmeal together in medium bowl. Stir in butter, cover, andmicrowaveuntil slightly thickened around edges, about 90 seconds, stirring once halfwaythroughcooking.Letsit,covered,for5minutes.

2.Whiskflour,sugar,bakingpowder,bakingsoda,andsaltinlargebowl.Beateggs and remaining½ cup buttermilk together in 1-cup liquidmeasuring cup.Whisk eggmixture into cornmealmixture.Whisk cornmealmixture into flourmixture.Letsitfor10minutes.

3.Heat½ teaspoonoil in12-inchnonstick skillet overmedium-lowheat untilshimmering. Using paper towels, carefully wipe out oil, leaving thin film onbottomofpan.Using level¼-cupmeasure foreachpancake,dropbatter for3pancakesintopan.Cookuntiledgesaresetandbubblesbegintoformontopsofpancakes,about90seconds.Flip,thencookuntilsecondsideisgoldenbrown,about2minuteslonger.Transfertopreparedbakingsheetinoven,coverlooselywithaluminumfoil,andrepeatwithremainingoilandbatter.Serve.

THEVIRTUESOFPANCAKEPATIENCE

Forthefluffiestpancakes,letthefinishedbattersitfor10minutesbeforegriddlingthecakes.Therestgives thebakingsodaextra time to reactand form largeairbubbles, lightening thebatter,ergothepancakes.Withaheartywholegrainlikecornmeal,youwantalltheliftyoucanget.Thistrickworkswithanypancakebattermadewithwholegrains.

CHOOSINGTHERIGHTCORNMEAL

Cornmeal,orgroundprocessedcornkernels,isavailableinallmannerofsizesforuseindifferentapplications.Inmostcases,werecommendchoosingstone-groundovercommerciallyproducedcornmealontwocounts:Firstofall,stone-groundcornmealhasamorerustictexturebecauseofthestone’sroughgrindingsurface(companieslikeQuakerusesmoothsteelrollersthatproduceveryfine,uniformcornmeal).Andsecondly,stone-groundcornmealhasafullerflavorbecauseitcontainsboththehullandoil-richgermofthecornkernel,whichcommercialproducersextractforbettershelflife.

DUTCHBABY


1cup(5ounces)all-purposeflour

¼

cupcornstarch

2teaspoonsgratedlemonzestplus2tablespoonsjuice

1 teaspoonsalt

DutchBabyWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSAbig,puffypancake,aDutchbabypuffs

and rises as it bakes, then falls in the center a fewminutes out of the oven,resulting in abowl-shapedbreakfast treatwith crisp sides anda thin, custardybottom.Forourversionwestartedwitha12-inchskillet;itsgentlyslopingwallspromotedanevenrise.Brushingthepanwithoilandpreheatingit in theovenhelped ensure the sides had the texture we wanted and jump-started thepancake’srise.Sincefatstendtomakebakedgoodstenderratherthancrisp,weusedskimmilkinourbatter.Forevenmorecrispness,wereplacedsomeoftheflourwithcornstarch.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES4

Youcanusewholeorlow-fatmilkinsteadofskim,butthetexturewon’tbeascrisp.Servewithanassortmentofberriesandlightlysweetenedwhippedcream,ifdesired.

3 largeeggs

1¼

cupsskimmilk

1tablespoonunsaltedbutter,meltedandcooled

1 teaspoonvanillaextract

3tablespoonsconfectioners’sugar

1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees. Brushbottom and sides of 12-inch skillet with oil. Heat skillet in oven until oil isshimmering,about10minutes.

2. Meanwhile, combine flour, cornstarch, lemon zest, and salt in large bowl.Whiskeggsinsecondbowluntilfrothyandlight,about1minute.Whiskmilk,butter,andvanillaintoeggsuntilincorporated.Whiskone-thirdofmilkmixtureintoflourmixtureuntilno lumpsremain, thenslowlywhisk inremainingmilkmixtureuntilsmooth.

3.Carefullypourbatterintoskilletandbakeuntiledgesaredeepgoldenbrownandcrisp,about20minutes.Transferskillettowirerack,sprinklepancakewithlemonjuiceandconfectioners’sugar,andcutintowedges.Serve.

EASYSTEPSTOMAKINGADUTCHBABYPANCAKE

1.Brushbottomandsidesofpanwithvegetableoiltoguaranteecrispexterior.

2.Heatgreasedpanbeforecarefullypouringinbattertoinitiaterise.

3.Bakeinhot450-degreeoventoensurehighrise.

4.Sprinkledeflatedpancakewithlemonjuiceandconfectioners’sugarbeforeserving.

BEIGNETS

1cupwater,heatedto110degrees

3 tablespoonsgranulatedsugar

1tablespooninstantorrapid-riseyeast


¾

teaspoonsalt

BeignetsWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSToreplicatethecrisp,airytextureandtangy

flavor of these classic New Orleans doughnuts, we began by using plenty ofyeast,kick-startingitwithwarmwaterandsugartodevelopitsflavor.Weaddedextrawaterforasuper-hydrateddough,sothatassoonasthewetdoughhitthehot oil, it created lots of steam, giving our beignets an open, honeycombedstructure.Sincewetdoughistrickytorollout,weletitriseintherefrigeratortofirm it up.A fewminutesof frying and a showerofpowdered sugar, andourbeignetswerereadytobeenjoyed,BigEasystyle.Seethesidebarsthatfollowtherecipe.

MAKESABOUT2DOZENBEIGNETS

This dough is very wet and sticky, so flour the counter and baking sheetgenerously.You’llneedaleasta6-quartDutchovenforthisrecipe.

2 largeeggs

2tablespoonsplus2quartsvegetableoil

Confectioners’sugar

1.Combinewater,1tablespoongranulatedsugar,andyeastinlargebowlandletsit until foamy, about 5 minutes. Combine flour, remaining 2 tablespoonsgranulatedsugar,andsaltinsecondbowl.Whiskeggsand2tablespoonsoilintoyeastmixture.Add flourmixture and stir vigorouslywith rubber spatula untildoughcomestogether.Coverbowlwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateuntilnearlydoubledinsize,about1hour.

2.Setwirerackinsiderimmedbakingsheet.Linesecondsheetwithparchmentpaper and dust generously with flour. Place half of dough on well-flouredcounter and pat into rough rectanglewith floured hands, flipping to coatwithflour.Roll dough into¼-inch-thick rectangle (roughly 12 by 9 inches).Usingpizzawheel,cutdoughintotwelve3-inchsquaresandtransfertoflouredbakingsheet.Repeatwithremainingdough.

3.AddremainingoiltolargeDutchovenuntilitmeasuresabout1½inchesdeepandheatovermedium-highheatto350degrees.Fry6beignets,adjustingburneras necessary to maintain oil temperature between 325 and 350 degrees, untilgoldenbrown,about3minutes, flippinghalfway through frying.Usingslottedspoon or tongs, transfer beignets to prepared baking sheet. Return oil to 350degrees and repeatwith remaining beignets.Dust beignetswith confectioners’sugarandserveimmediately.

FORMINGBEIGNETS

This dough is very wet, which allows a network of delicate holes to develop in the beignets.However,wetdoughcanbetrickytoworkwith.Here’showtoeasilyshapeandcutthebeignets:

1.Dustcounterandrollingpingenerouslywithflourbeforeyourolloutchilledbeignetdough.

2.Cut3-inchsquareswithpizzawheel.

AFASTERWAYTOFLAVOR

Startingwithafulltablespoonofyeastandproofingitinwarmwaterjump-startsthefermentationprocess,givingourbeignetscomplexflavorafterjusta1-hourrise.

FLUFFYDINER-STYLECHEESEOMELET

3tablespoonsheavycream,chilled

5largeeggs,roomtemperature

¼

teaspoonsalt


ouncessharpcheddarcheese,shredded(½cup)

FluffyDiner-StyleCheeseOmeletWHYTHISRECIPEWORKS For a tall, fluffydiner-worthyomelet,we

ditchedthewhiskforanelectricmixer,whichhelpedusincorporateairintotheeggs. Cream added richness, but when we added it to the whipped eggs, theomeletlostitsfluffiness.Combiningthecreamandeggsbeforewhippingdidn’tworkeither—thefat inthecreammadeit impossibletowhipair intotheeggs.Instead,wewhippedthedairyfirst, thenfoldedit intothewhippedeggs.Afterlettingthebottomoftheomeletsetonthestovetop,wepoppedtheskilletintoapreheatedoven,andjustsixminuteslaterhadapuffy,fluffyomelet,cookedtoperfection.

SERVES2

Although this recipe will work with a standmixer, a hand-heldmixer makesquickworkofwhippingsuchasmallamountofcream.Tomake twoomelets,double this recipe and cook the omelets simultaneously in two skillets. If youhaveonlyoneskillet,prepareadoublebatchofingredientsandsethalfasideforthesecondomelet.Besuretowipeouttheskilletinbetweenomelets.

2

1recipeomeletfilling(optional)(recipesfollow)

1.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento400degrees.Usingstandmixerfittedwithwhisk,whipcreamonmedium-lowspeeduntilfoamy,about1minute. Increasespeed tohighandwhipuntilsoftpeaksform,1 to3minutes.Set whipped cream aside. Using dry, clean bowl andwhisk attachment, whipeggsandsaltonhighspeeduntil frothyandeggshave tripled in size, about2minutes.Gentlyfoldwhippedcreamintoeggs.

2. Melt butter in ovensafe 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium-low heat,swirlingpantocoatbottomandsides.Addeggmixtureandcookuntiledgesarenearly set, 2 to 3 minutes. Sprinkle with ¼ cup cheddar and half of omeletfilling, if using, and transfer to oven. Bake until eggs are set and edges arebeginningtobrown,6to8minutes.

3.Carefullyremovepanfromoven(handlewillbeveryhot),sprinkleeggswithremaining ¼ cup cheddar and remaining omelet filling, if using, and let sit,covered,untilcheesebeginstomelt,about1minute.Tiltpanand,usingrubberspatula,pushhalfofomeletontocuttingboard, then foldomeletover itself toformhalf-moonshape.Cutomeletinhalfandserve.

4ounceshotorsweetItaliansausage,casingsremoved


1smallonion,chopped

½ redbellpepper,chopped

Saltandpepper

SAUSAGEANDPEPPERFILLING

MAKESENOUGHFOR1RECIPEFLUFFYDINER-STYLEOMELET

Cooksausagein10-inchnonstickskilletovermediumheat,breakingupclumpswithwooden spoon, until browned, about 6minutes.Transfer topaper towel–lined plate.Add butter, onion, and bell pepper to now-empty skillet and cookuntilsoftened,about10minutes.Stirinsausageandseasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.

1largeYukonGoldpotato,peeledandcutinto½-inchpieces

4slicesbacon,chopped


Saltandpepper

LOADEDBAKEDPOTATOFILLING

MAKESENOUGHFOR1RECIPEFLUFFYDINER-STYLEOMELET

Microwavepotato,covered,inlargebowluntiljusttender,2to5minutes.Cookbaconin10-inchnonstickskilletovermediumheatuntilcrisp,about8minutes.Transferbacon topaper towel–linedplate;pouroffallbut1 tablespoonbaconfat.Addpotatotoskilletandcookuntilgoldenbrown,about6minutes.Transferpotato to bowl, add cooked bacon, and stir in scallions. Seasonwith salt andpeppertotaste.

“IMPOSSIBLE”HAM-AND-CHEESEPIE

1tablespoonunsaltedbutter,softened,plus2tablespoonsmelted

3 tablespoonsfinelygratedParmesancheese

8ouncesGruyèrecheese,shredded(2cups)

4ouncesthicklysliceddeliham,chopped

4scallions,minced

½ cup(2½ounces)all-purposeflour¾

“Impossible”Ham-and-CheesePieWHYTHISRECIPEWORKS “Impossible” pie is a 1970s phenomenon

that promises a pie “crust”without rolling out finicky dough. Traditionally, asimpleBisquickbatterwaswhiskedwitheggsandpouredovervegetables,meat,and cheese and baked. To give our “crust” a crispy, browned exterior, webuttered the pie dish and coated it with Parmesan cheese. We replaced theBisquickwith a simplebatterof flour, bakingpowder, eggs, andcreamyhalf-and-half.Doublingthenumberofeggsmadeforaricher,custardypie.Forthefilling,wechose ingredients that required aminimumofprepwork: scallions,diceddeliham,andGruyèrecheese.Seethesidebarsthatfollowtherecipe.

SERVES8

Usearasp-stylegraterorthesmallestholesonaboxgraterfortheParmesan.


½

teaspoonpepper

¼

teaspoonsalt

1cuphalf-and-half



⅛


1.Adjustovenracktolowestpositionandheatovento350degrees.Grease9-inchpieplatewithsoftenedbutter,thencoatplateevenlywithParmesan.

2. Combine Gruyère, ham, and scallions in bowl. Sprinkle cheese-and-hammixtureevenly inbottomofpreparedpiedish.Combineflour,bakingpowder,pepper,andsaltinnow-emptybowl.Whiskinhalf-and-half,eggs,meltedbutter,mustard, and nutmeg until smooth. Slowly pour batter over cheese-and-hammixtureinpiedish.

3.Bakeuntilpie is lightgoldenbrownandfillingisset,30to35minutes.Letcoolonwirerackfor15minutes.Sliceintowedges.Servewarm.

FINGERFOOD

Toserveour“Impossible”Ham-and-CheesePieasanhorsd’oeuvreatyournextparty,forgothepie plate and instead bake it in an 8-inch square baking dish. Slice it into 1-inch squares andservewarmoratroomtemperature.

GRATINGHARDCHEESE

WhengratingParmesanandotherhardcheeses,weusearasp-stylegraterbecauseitproduceslighter,fluffiershredsofcheesethatmeltseamlesslyintoallkindsofdishes.

HOMEMADEBREAKFASTSAUSAGE

2 poundsgroundpork

1 tablespoonmaplesyrup

1garlicclove,minced

2 teaspoonsdriedsage

1½

teaspoonspepper

HomemadeBreakfastSausage WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Commercially made breakfast sausage

alwaysdisappointswhenitcomestoflavor,tastingeithertoosweetorsalty,ortooblandorhighlyseasoned,sowedecidedtomakeourown.Westartedwithground pork with some fat in it (lean meat was neither fatty nor flavorfulenough) and amped up its mild flavor with classic breakfast sausage flavors:garlic,sage,thyme,andcayennepepper.Aspoonfulofmaplesyrupsweetenedthepattiesnicely.Tocombinethemeatmixture,wekneadeditgentlywithourhands,butwerecarefulnot toovermix it,whichwould toughen themeat.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES8

Avoid leanor extra-leangroundpork; itmakes the sausagedry, crumbly, andlessflavorful.

1 teaspoonsalt

½

teaspoondriedthyme

⅛



1.Combinepork,maplesyrup,garlic,sage,pepper,salt,thyme,andcayenneinlarge bowl.Gentlymixwith hands untilwell combined.Usinggreased¼-cupmeasure,dividemixtureinto16pattiesandplaceonrimmedbakingsheet.Coverpattieswithplasticwrap,thengentlyflatteneachoneto½-inchthickness.

2.Melt1tablespoonbutterin12-inchnonstickskilletovermediumheat.Cookhalfofpattiesuntilwellbrownedandcookedthrough,6to10minutes.Transfertopapertowel–linedplateandtentwithaluminumfoil.Wipeoutskillet.Repeatwithremainingbutterandpatties.Serve.

TO MAKE AHEAD: Follow recipe through step 1. Refrigerate uncookedpattiesforupto1dayorfreezeforupto1month.Toserve,proceedasdirectedinstep2,increasingcookingtimeto14to18minutes.

DRIEDHERBS

We use plenty of dried herbs in the test kitchen, but we don’t use every dried herb. That’sbecausedelicateleafyherbs,suchasbasil,parsley,chives,mint,andcilantro,becomemustyandstale-tastingwhendried.Butheartierherbs,suchasoregano,sage,andthyme,drywellandaregoodsubstitutesforfreshinmostrecipes—especiallythoseinwhichtheherbswillcookinliquid(such as stews and sauces).We’ve found that two herbs, tarragon and dill, fall into amiddlecategory:Theydoaddflavorintheirdriedform,butthatflavorismoremutedthanthatprovidedbyotherdriedherbs.

Afewgeneral rules:Useonlyhalfasmuchdriedherbsas fresh,andaddthemat thesametimeasyouwouldaddfresh.Driedherbslosetheirpotency6to12monthsafteropening;youcantestdriedherbs for freshnessby rubbing thembetweenyour fingers—if theydon’tsmellbright,throwthemawayandbuyanewjar.

Herearethedriedherbsweuseinthetestkitchenandourfavoriteusesforeach:

OREGANOGreatintomatosauces,chili,MexicanandLatindishes,andsprinkledonpizza.Driedoreganodoesnothavethesamesharpbiteasfresh,butitdoeshaveadistinctandrecognizablefloral

element.

SAGEWepreferrubbed(orfinelycrumbled)sagetothegroundorchoppedkinds.Usewithpoultry,

stuffings,pork,andfull-flavoredvegetables(likesquash),andinbuttersauces.

ROSEMARYWorkswellinlong-cookeddishes(especiallythosewithItalianflavors)likesoups,stews,and

braises.Toomuchdriedrosemarycanturnadishbitter,sousesparingly.

MARJORAMThispungentherbisespeciallygoodwithbeans,lamb,andotherredmeats.

SHORT-ORDERHOMEFRIES

1½ poundsYukonGoldpotatoes,cutinto¾-inchpieces


1onion,choppedfine

½

teaspoongarlicsalt

½

teaspoonsalt

Pepper

Short-OrderHomeFriesWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSThougha commercial-gradegriddlehelps

our local diner serve up home fries with a perfectly crispy exterior, the realsecret isprecookingthepotatoes.Roastingorboilingourspudstooktoomuchtimeforaquickbreakfastside,soweturnedtothemicrowavetojump-starttheircookingbeforefryingtheminalargeskillet.Wefoundthatpackingthepotatoesdownwithaspatulaandcooking thema fewminutesbefore turning themandthenrepeatingthesestepsensuredtheywereevenlybrownedandextra-crunchy.Finally,westirredinsomesautéedonionandgarlicsalttogiveourhomefriesadeep,savoryflavor.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES4

AlthoughwepreferthesweetnessofYukonGoldpotatoes,othermedium-starchpotatoes,suchasredpotatoes,canbesubstituted.Ifyouwanttospicethingsup,addapinchofcayennepepper.

1.Placepotatoesand1tablespoonbutterinlargebowlandmicrowave,covered,untiledgesofpotatoesbegintosoften,5to7minutes,stirringhalfwaythroughcooking.

2.Meanwhile,melt1tablespoonbutterin12-inchnonstickskilletovermediumheat. Add onion and cook until softened and golden brown, 8 to 10minutes.Transfertosmallbowl.

3.Meltremaining2tablespoonsbutterinnow-emptyskilletovermediumheat.Addpotatoesandpackdownwithspatula.Cook,withoutmoving,untilbottomsof potatoes are brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Turn potatoes, pack down again, andcontinue tocookuntilwellbrownedandcrisp,5 to7minutes.Reduceheat tomedium-low and continue to cook until potatoes are crusty, 9 to 12minutes,stirringoccasionally.Stirinonion,garlicsalt,andsaltandseasonwithpeppertotaste.Serve.

GREEKDINER-STYLEHOMEFRIES

Omitgarlicsaltandadd1tablespoonlemonjuice,2mincedgarliccloves,and½teaspoondriedoreganotopotatoesalongwithonioninstep3.

HOMEFRIESWITHFRESHHERBS

Add 1 teaspoon each chopped fresh basil, parsley, thyme, and tarragon topotatoesalongwithonioninstep3.

THERIGHTSPUDSFORHOMEFRIES

High-starch, low-moisturepotatoes,suchas russets,maybegreat forbakingandmashing,butwhen it comes to home fries, they are not the best choice. The fluffy flesh of these potatoesbreaksdownintheskillet, leavingnothingbutagreasypoolofstodgyspuds.Fortendertubersthatretaintheirtexture,weprefermedium-starchvarieties,suchasYukonGoldandredpotatoes.Theyholdtheirshapeintheskillet,developagreatcrust,andfryuptoabeautifulgoldenbrown.

RUSSETPOTATOESAfalling-apartmess

YUKONGOLDPOTATOESIntact,crisp,andbrowned

CORNMEALBISCUITS

1cup(5ounces)cornmeal

1¼

cupsbuttermilk

1 tablespoonhoney


1 tablespoonbakingpowder

CornmealBiscuitsWHY THIS RECIPE WORKS A good cornmeal biscuit combines the

tender,fluffycrumbofatraditionalbiscuitwiththedistinctcornmealflavorofcornbread.Tomake thedough,weused a foodprocessor to cut chilledbutterquicklyintoourdryingredients.Soourbiscuitswouldtaste likecornmeal,butwouldn’thaveitsdry,grittytexture,wesoakedthecornmealinbuttermilk;just10minuteswasenoughtosoftenit.Abitofhoneyprovidedasubtlesweetnessthat drew out the corn flavor evenmore.Kneading the dough briefly prior tocutting out rounds ensured evenly textured biscuits that rose to an impressiveheight.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

MAKES12BISCUITS

If you don’t have buttermilk, you can substitute clabbered milk; whisk 1tablespoonlemonjuiceinto1¼cupsofmilkandletthemixturesituntilslightlythickened, about 10 minutes. Avoid coarsely ground cornmeal, which makesgrittybiscuits.

½

teaspoonbakingsoda

1 teaspoonsalt


1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees. Linerimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.Whisk cornmeal, buttermilk, andhoneytogetherinlargebowl;letsitfor10minutes.

2. Pulse flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in food processor untilcombined,about3pulses.Scatterbutterevenlyover topandcontinue topulseuntil mixture resembles coarse meal, about 15 pulses. Add flour mixture tobuttermilkmixtureandstiruntildoughforms.

3.Turndoughoutontolightlyflouredcounterandkneaduntilsmooth,8to10times.Patdough into9-inchcircle, about¾ inch thick.Using2½-inchbiscuitcutter dipped in flour, cut out rounds and transfer to prepared baking sheet,dipping cutter in flour after each cut. Pat remaining dough into ¾-inch-thickcircle,cutroundsfromdough,andtransfertobakingsheet.

4. Bake until biscuits begin to rise, about 5 minutes, then reduce oventemperatureto400degreesandbakeuntilgoldenbrown,8to12minuteslonger,rotatingbakingsheethalfwaythroughbaking.Letbiscuitscoolonbakingsheetfor 5 minutes, then transfer to wire rack. Serve warm or let cool to roomtemperature.(Biscuitscanbestoredatroomtemperatureforupto2days.)

STEPSTOTENDER,FLUFFYCORNMEALBISCUITS

OurCornmealBiscuitshavethemoist,flavor-packedcrumbofcornbreadandthefluffystatureofastampedbiscuit.

1. Soak cornmeal in buttermilk for soft crumb without too much cornmeal grit before mixingtogetherdough.

2.Transferdoughtolightlyflouredcounterandkneadbrieflybeforepattinginto9-inchcircle.

3.Usebiscuitcuttertocutdoughintorounds,dippingcutterintoflourbetweencuts.

CATHEADBISCUITS

1½ cups(7½ounces)all-purposeflour1½ cups(6ounces)cakeflour


½

teaspoonbakingsoda

1 teaspoonsalt

8tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,cutinto½-inchpiecesandsoftened

tablespoonsvegetableshortening,cutinto½-inchpieces

CatHeadBiscuitsWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSAsbigasacat’shead, thesetender,moist

biscuitsthatoriginatedintheAppalachianregionboastagolden-brown,craggytop and downy, soft sides.Many Southern bakers rely onWhite Lily flour toensure a tender texture, but since this flour isn’t readily available everywhere,wesubstitutedanequalmixofcakeflourandall-purposeflour.Forbiscuitswitha fluffy texture, we relied on softened butter and shortening, worked in withwarm hands. Scooping the dough into a round cake pan, so themoundsweretouching, gave us baked biscuitswith tender, soft sides. See the sidebars thatfollowtherecipe.

MAKES6BISCUITS

If you don’t have buttermilk, you can substitute clabbered milk; whisk 1tablespoon lemon juice into1¼cupsmilkand let themixture situntil slightlythickened,about10minutes.Therecipewillalsoworkwith3cupsWhiteLilyflourinplaceofboththeall-purposeandcakeflours.

4

1¼

cupsbuttermilk

1. Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and heat oven to 425 degrees.Grease 9-inch round cake pan. Combine all-purpose flour, cake flour, bakingpowder, baking soda, and salt in large bowl. Using fingertips, rub butter andshortening into flour mixture until mixture resembles coarse meal. Stir inbuttermilkuntilcombined.

2.Usinggreased½-cupmeasureorlargespring-loadedicecreamscoop,transfer6heapingportionsofdoughintopreparedpan,placingfivearoundedgeandoneincenter.

3.Bakeuntilpuffedandgoldenbrown,20to25minutes,rotatingpanhalfwaythrough baking. Let biscuits cool in pan for 10minutes, then transfer towirerack.Serve.(Biscuitscanbestoredatroomtemperatureforupto2days.)

FORMINGCATHEADBISCUITS

Manybiscuitsarekneaded, rolled,stampedout,and thenbakedonsheetpans.ForCatHeadBiscuits,we instead scoop the sticky, shaggy dough and nestle the biscuits in a cake pan. (Aspring-loaded ice cream scoop does the job neatly and quickly.) All snuggled together, they’reforcedtorise,ratherthanspread,andthesidesstaysoftandwhite.

FLOURMIXOLOGY

Southernbakers swearbyWhiteLily all-purpose flour,which they saymakesbiscuits soft anddowny,exactlythetexturewesoughtforourCatHeadBiscuits.Butwhatifyoudon’t liveintheSouthandcan’teasilyget yourhandsonabag?We foundwecould replicate it bycombiningequalamountsofordinaryall-purposeflour(madefromamixofhigh-andlow-glutenwheats)andcakeflour(asoft,fine-texturedflour).

ALL-PURPOSEFLOURContributesstructure

CAKEFLOURContributessoftness

WHITELILYThesoftandfluffystandard-bearer

SOUTHERN-STYLESKILLETCORNBREAD

2¼ cups(11¼ounces)cornmeal

2 cupsbuttermilk

¼

cupvegetableoil


2 largeeggs

Southern-StyleSkilletCornbread WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Savory skillet-baked Southern-style

cornbread should boast hearty corn flavor, a sturdy,moist crumb, and a darkbrowncrust.Fortherighttexture,weusedfinelygroundcornmeal.Toastingitintheovenforafewminutesintensifiedthecornflavor.Buttermilkaddedasharptangthatworkedwellwiththecorn,andsoakingthecornmealinthebuttermilkhelpedtosoftenitsoourcornbreadwasmoistandtender.Whenitcametothefat,acombinationofbutter(forflavor)andvegetableoil(whichcanwithstandhigh heat without burning) worked best, and greasing the pan with bothdeliveredthecrispcrustwewereafter.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES12

If you don’t have buttermilk, you can substitute clabbered milk; whisk 2tablespoonslemonjuiceinto2cupsofmilkandletthemixturesituntilslightlythickened,about10minutes.Wepreferacast-ironskillethere,butanyovensafe10-inchskilletwillworkfine.Avoidcoarselygroundcornmeal,asitwillmakethecornbreadgritty.



¾

teaspoonsalt

1.Adjustovenrackstolower-middleandmiddlepositionsandheatovento450degrees. Heat 10-inch cast-iron skillet onmiddle rack for 10minutes. Spreadcornmeal over rimmed baking sheet and bake on lower-middle rack untilfragrantandcolorbeginstodeepen,about5minutes.Transferhotcornmeal tolargebowlandwhiskinbuttermilk;setaside.

2.Carefullyaddoiltohotskilletandcontinuetobakeuntiloilisjustsmoking,about 5minutes. Remove skillet from oven and add butter, carefully swirlingpanuntil butter ismelted.Pour all but 1 tablespoonoilmixture into cornmealmixture, leaving remaining oil mixture in pan. Whisk eggs, baking powder,bakingsoda,andsaltintocornmealmixture.

3.Pourcornmealmixtureintohotskilletandbakeuntiltopbeginstocrackandsidesaregoldenbrown,12to16minutes,rotatingpanhalfwaythroughbaking.Letcornbreadcoolinpanfor5minutes,thenturnoutontowirerack.Serve.

SECRETSTOSAVORYSOUTHERN-STYLESKILLETCORNBREAD

1.Toastcornmealtogivebreadrichercornflavor.

2.Soakcornmealinbuttermilktosoftencornmealandensuretenderyetsturdycrumb.

3.Greaseandthoroughlyheatpantocreatecrispcrust.

PERFECTPOPOVERS

3 largeeggs

2cups1percentor2percentlow-fatmilk,heatedto110degrees


2cups(11ounces)breadflour

1 teaspoonsalt

PerfectPopoversWHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For golden-brown popovers that really

popped,weusedbreadflourinsteadofall-purposeflourinthebatter—thebreadflour’shigherproteincontentensuredthehighestriseandcrispiestcrust.Restingthebatterbeforebakingpreventedthepopoversfromsettinguptooquickly.Wefirstbakedourpopoversatahightemperaturetojump-starttheinitialrise,thenturnedtheovendownsotheywouldcookthroughevenly.Toletsteamescape(whichcancausepopoverstocollapse),wepokedaholeinthetopofeachonewhen they were almost done baking, and then again as they cooled. See thesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

MAKES6POPOVERS

Greasingthepanwithshorteningensuresthebestrelease,butvegetableoilspraymay be substituted; do not use butter. Bread flour makes for the highest andsturdiest popovers, but 2 cups (10 ounces) of all-purpose flour may besubstituted.

1 teaspoonsugar

1. Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees.Grease6-cuppopoverpanwith shortening, then flourpan lightly.Whisk eggsuntil light and foamy inmedium bowl. Slowlywhisk inmilk and butter untilincorporated.

2. Combine flour, salt, and sugar in large bowl.Whisk three-quarters ofmilkmixtureintoflourmixtureuntilnolumpsremain,thenwhiskinremainingmilkmixture.Transferbatterto4-cupliquidmeasuringcup,coverwithplasticwrap,and let sit at room temperature for 1 hour. (Alternatively, batter can berefrigeratedforupto1day.Bringtoroomtemperaturebeforeproceeding.)

3.Whiskbattertorecombine,thenpourintopreparedpan(batterwillnotreachtop of cups). Bake until just beginning to brown, about 20 minutes.Withoutopeningovendoor, decreaseoven temperature to300degrees and continue tobakeuntilpopoversaregoldenbrown,35to40minuteslonger.Pokesmallholein top of each popover with skewer and continue to bake until deep goldenbrown,about10minuteslonger.Transferpantowirerack,pokepopoversagainwithskewer,andletcoolfor2minutes.Removefrompanandserve.

TOMAKEAHEAD:Cooledpopoverscanbestoredat roomtemperature forupto2days.Toserve,adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento400degrees.Heatpopoversonrimmedbakingsheetuntilcrispandheatedthrough,5to8minutes.

MUFFINTINPOPOVERSIf you don’t have a popover pan, you can bake the popovers in a 12-cup muffin tin—with asacrificeinstature.Toensureevencooking,useonlytheouter10cupsofthetin.

Greaseandflourouter10cupsofmuffintin,thenfill¼inchfromthetop(youmayhavesomebatterleftover).Reduceinitialbakingtimeinstep3to15minutes,andreducesecondarybakingtime to20 to25minutesafteroven temperaturehasbeen lowered.Pokepopoversasdirectedandcontinuetobakeforanother10minutes.

POPOVERSGONEWRONG

POPNEVERShort,squatpopoversoccurwhentherecipecalls forcakeflour,whichdoesn’tprovideenoughstructuretothebatter.Usingtoo littlebattercanalsomakeforsquatpopovers,ascananoventhat’snothotenough.

POPUNDERDeflatedpopoversoccurwhentheyaren’tbakedlongenoughtosetupproperlyoraren’tpokedduringbakingtoallowthesteamtoescape.

POPUGLYMisshapenpopoversarecausedbyusingapreheated,oiledpan.Thebatterthatfirsthitsthepanimmediatelyrisesupthroughthewetbatter,resultinginanuglyshape.

MORNINGGLORYMUFFINS

¾ cup(2¼ounces)sweetenedshreddedcoconut,toasted½ cupwalnuts,toasted2¼ cups(11¼ounces)all-purposeflour¾ cup(5¼ounces)sugar1½

teaspoonsbakingsoda

½


1 teaspoongroundcinnamon

¾

teaspoonsalt

1(8-ounce)cancrushedpineapple

MorningGloryMuffinsWHYTHIS RECIPEWORKS Morning glory muffins are chock-full of

nuts, fruit, carrots, and spices. But all these tempting add-ins can make forheavy,densemuffins,soourfirstmovewastostrainthefruitandpressouttheextra juice topreventourmuffinsfrombeingsoggy.Tokeepthebright, fruityflavorintact,wesimplysavedthereleasedfruitjuice,reduceditonthestovetop,and added the concentrated syrup back to the batter. To keep the nuts andcoconutfrombecomingmealyorsoggyinthefinishedmuffins,wetoastedandprocessed them.At last, ourmuffinswere truly glorious. See the sidebar thatfollowstherecipe.

MAKES12MUFFINS

Thoughweprefergoldenraisinshere,ordinaryraisinswillwork,too.

1GrannySmithapple,peeled,cored,andshredded


3 largeeggs


1½ cupsshreddedcarrots(2to3carrots)

1 cupgoldenraisins

1.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento350degrees.Spray12-cupmuffin tinwith vegetable oil spray. Process coconut andwalnuts in foodprocessoruntil finelyground,20to30seconds.Addflour,sugar,bakingsoda,bakingpowder,cinnamon,andsaltandpulseuntilcombined.Transfermixturetolargebowl.

2. Place pineapple and shredded apple in fine-mesh strainer set over liquidmeasuringcup.Pressfruitdry(youshouldhaveabout1cupjuice).Bringjuiceto boil in 12-inch skillet overmedium-high heat and cook until reduced to¼cup,about5minutes.Letcoolslightly.Whiskmeltedbutter,cooledjuice,eggs,and vanilla together until smooth. Stir wet mixture into dry mixture untilcombined.Stirinpineapple-applemixture,carrots,andraisins.

3. Divide batter evenly among muffin cups. Bake until toothpick inserted incentercomesoutclean,24to28minutes,rotatingpanhalfwaythroughbaking.Letmuffins cool inmuffin tin onwire rack for 10minutes. Removemuffinsfrom tin and let cool for at least 10minutes before serving. (Muffins can bestoredatroomtemperatureforupto3days.)

SECRETSTOGLORIOUSMORNINGGLORYMUFFINS

1. Toasting the coconut and walnuts heightens their flavor, and processing them in a foodprocessoruntilfinelygroundpreventssoggy,stringycoconutandmealynuts.

2.Pressingthejuiceoutoftheshreddedappleandpineapplebeforestirringthemintothebatterkeepsthemuffinsfrombeinggummyandwet.

3.Reducingthereleasedfruit juiceonthestovetop(downfrom1cupto¼cup)andaddingthesyruptothebatterprovidesabright,fruityflavorwithoutaddingtoomuchmoisture.

ULTIMATECINNAMONBUNS

DOUGH

¾ cupwholemilk,heatedto110degrees2¼ teaspoonsinstantorrapid-riseyeast


4¼ cups(21¼ounces)all-purposeflour½

cupcornstarch

½ cup(3½ounces)granulatedsugar1½

teaspoonssalt

12tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,cutinto12piecesandsoftened

UltimateCinnamonBunsWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSGooeysoftball-sizecinnamonbunsarethe

ultimate breakfast treat. For the base of ours, we turned to a buttery, tenderbriochedough.Addingcornstarchtotheall-purposeflourinthedoughmadethebuns especially tender. For a filling with great flavor, we combined a goodamount of cinnamon—noother spices necessary—with brown sugar. Softenedbutterhelpedkeepthefillingfromspillingoutaswerolledupthedough.Bakedtogether,thebutterandcinnamonsugarturnedintoarich,gooeyfilling.Athick,tangy glaze of cream cheese, confectioners’ sugar, andmilk ensured our bunsreallylookedthepart.

MAKES8BUNS

Forsmallercinnamonbuns,cutthedoughinto12piecesinstep3.

FILLING

1½ cupspacked(10½ounces)lightbrownsugar1½

tablespoonsgroundcinnamon

¼

teaspoonsalt


GLAZE

1½ cupsconfectioners’sugar

4ouncescreamcheese,softened

1 tablespoonwholemilk


1.FORTHEDOUGH:Makefoilslingfor13by9-inchbakingpanbyfolding2longsheetsofaluminumfoil;firstsheetshouldbe13incheswideandsecondsheet shouldbe9 incheswide.Laysheetsof foil inpanperpendicular toeachother,withextra foilhangingoveredgesofpan.Push foil intocornersandupsides of pan, smoothing foil flush to pan. Grease foil.Whisk milk and yeasttogetherinliquidmeasuringcupuntilyeastdissolves,thenwhiskineggs.

2.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandplaceloaforcakepanonbottomofoven.Using standmixer fittedwith dough hook,mix flour, cornstarch, sugar,andsaltonlowspeeduntilcombined.Addwarmmilkmixtureinsteadystreamandmixuntildoughcomestogether,about1minute.Increasespeedtomediumandaddbutter,1pieceatatime,untilincorporated.Continuetomixuntildoughissmoothandcomesawayfromsidesofbowl,about10minutes(ifdoughisstillwetand sticky, addup to¼cup flour,1 tablespoonat a time,until it releasesfrombowl).Turndoughoutontocounterandkneadtoformsmooth,roundball.Transferdoughtomediumgreasedbowl,coverwithplasticwrap,andtransfertomiddlerackofoven.Pour3cupsboilingwaterintoloafpaninoven,closeovendoor,andletdoughriseuntildoubledinsize,about2hours.

3. FOR THE FILLING: Combine sugar, cinnamon, and salt in small bowl.Removedoughfromovenandturnoutontolightlyflouredcounter.Rolldoughinto18-inchsquareand,leaving½-inchborderaroundedges,spreadwithbutter,then sprinkle evenly with sugar mixture and lightly press sugar mixture intodough. Startingwith edge closest to you, roll dough into tight cylinder, pinchlightly to seal seam, and cut into 8 pieces. Transfer pieces, cut side up, topreparedpan.Coverwithplasticandletriseinovenuntildoubledinsize,about1hour.

4. FORTHEGLAZEANDTOBAKE: Remove buns and water pan fromoven and heat oven to 350 degrees. Whisk all glaze ingredients together inmedium bowl until smooth. Remove plastic and bake buns until deep goldenbrown and filling is melted, 35 to 40 minutes, rotating pan halfway throughbaking.Transfer towire rack, top bunswith½ cup glaze, and let cool for 30minutes.Usingfoiloverhang,liftbunsfrompanandtopwithremainingglaze.Serve.

TOMAKE AHEAD: Follow recipe through step 3, skipping step of lettingbunsrise.Placebunsinpan,coverwithplasticwrap,andrefrigerateforupto1day.Tobake,letsitatroomtemperaturefor1hour.Removeplasticandproceedwithstep4.

QUICKERCINNAMONBUNS

FILLING

¾ cuppacked(5¼ounces)lightbrownsugar¼ cup(1¾ounces)granulatedsugar

1 tablespoongroundcinnamon

⅛

teaspoonsalt


QuickerCinnamonBunsWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSRich,gooey,homemadecinnamonbunscan

takeupwardsof3hourstoprepare.Wewantedthesametender,yeastyresultsinhalfthetime.Foraquickerrise,wesupplementedtheyeast(whichweproofedinwarmmilkforextraspeed)withbakingpowder.Amere2minutesofhand-kneading and a single 30-minute rise were enough to give us the flavor andtexture we were looking for.We used a cooler-than-normal oven to give theyeasttimetoriseanddevelopflavorbeforethetopsofthebunsset.Brownsugarandbutter inthefillingandatouchofvanillainourtangycreamcheeseglazemadethesebunsultra-richandindulgent.

MAKES8BUNS

Sincethefilling,dough,andglazeallrequiremeltedbutter,it’seasiertomeltall10 tablespoons in a liquidmeasuring cup and divvy it up as needed. Stir themeltedbutterbeforeeachusetoredistributethemilksolids.Wedevelopedthisrecipeusingadarkcakepan,whichproducesdeeplycaramelizedbuns.Ifyourcakepan is light-colored, adjust the oven rack to the lowest position, heat theovento375degrees,andincreasethebakingtimeto29to32minutes.


DOUGH

1¼ cupswholemilk,roomtemperature

4teaspoonsinstantorrapid-riseyeast


2¾ cups(13¾ounces)all-purposeflour2½


¾

teaspoonsalt


GLAZE




½


⅛

teaspoonsalt

1cup(4ounces)confectioners’sugar,sifted

1. FORTHEFILLING: Combine brown sugar, granulated sugar, cinnamon,and salt inbowl.Stir inmeltedbutter andvanilla untilmixture resembleswetsand;setaside.

2. FOR THE DOUGH: Grease dark 9-inch round cake pan, line withparchment paper, and grease parchment. Pour ¼ cupmilk in small bowl andmicrowave until 110 degrees, 15 to 20 seconds. Stir in yeast and 1 teaspoonsugarandletsituntilmixtureisbubbly,about5minutes.

3.Whiskflour,bakingpowder,salt,andremaining5teaspoonssugartogetherinlargebowl.Stirin2tablespoonsbutter,yeastmixture,andremaining1cupmilkuntildoughforms(doughwillbesticky).Transferdoughtowell-flouredcounterandkneaduntilsmoothballforms,about2minutes.

4. Roll dough into 12 by 9-inch rectangle, with long side parallel to counteredge.Brushdoughalloverwith2tablespoonsbutter,leaving½-inchborderonfaredge.Sprinkledoughevenlywithfilling,thenpressfillingfirmlyintodough.Using bench scraper ormetal spatula, loosen dough from counter.Roll doughawayfromyouintotightlogandpinchseamtoseal.

5.Rolllogseamsidedownandcutinto8equalpieces.Standbunsonendandgently re-formends thatwerepinchedduringcutting.Place1bun incenterofprepared pan and others around perimeter of pan, seam sides facing in.Brushtops of buns with remaining 2 tablespoons butter. Cover buns loosely withplasticwrapandletrisefor30minutes.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento350degrees.

6.Discardplasticandbakebunsuntiledgesarewellbrowned,23to25minutes.Loosen buns from sides of pan with paring knife and let cool for 5 minutes.Invert large plate over cake pan. Using potholders, flip plate and pan upsidedown;removepanandparchment.Reinvertbunsontowire rack,setwire rackinsideparchment-linedrimmedbakingsheet,andletcoolfor5minutes.

7.FORTHEGLAZE:Placecreamcheese in largebowlandwhiskinbutter,milk, vanilla, and salt until smooth.Whisk in sugar until smooth. Pour glazeevenlyovertopsofbuns,spreadingwithspatulatocover.Serve.

MORNINGBUNS

DOUGH


1 tablespoonsugar

2¼ teaspoonsinstantorrapid-riseyeast¾

teaspoonsalt

24tablespoons(3sticks)unsaltedbutter,cutinto¼-inch-thickslicesandchilled

cupsourcream,chilled

MorningBuns WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Morning buns rely on a complicated

croissantlikedough that requiresbothsubstantialeffortand time.Foraneasierpath,weswitchedtoaquickdoughclosertopuffpastry.Insteadofrollingthebutter into thedry ingredientson thecounter,wemoved itall toazipper-lockbagandrolledeverythingrightinthebag.Toproducemultiplelayersinthisrichpastry, we rolled the dough into a rectangle, then into a cylinder, and gentlypatteditflat.Ablendofbrownandwhitesugaraddedasubtlemolassesflavortothefilling,whileorangezestinstilleditwithbrightcitrusnotes.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

MAKES12BUNS

Ifthedoughbecomestoosofttoworkwithatanypoint,refrigerateituntilit’sfirmenoughtoeasilyhandle.

1

¼ cuporangejuice,chilled

3 tablespoonsicewater

1 largeeggyolk

FILLING

½ cup(3½ounces)granulatedsugar½ cuppacked(3½ounces)lightbrownsugar

1 tablespoongratedorangezest

2 teaspoonsgroundcinnamon


1.FORTHEDOUGH:Combine flour, sugar,yeast, and salt in largezipper-lock bag.Add butter to bag, seal, and shake to coat. Press air out of bag andreseal.Rolloverbagseveraltimeswithrollingpin,shakingbagaftereachroll,untilbutterispressedintolargeflakes.Transfermixturetolargebowlandstirinsourcream,orangejuice,water,andeggyolkuntilcombined.

2.Turndoughontoflouredcounterandkneadbrieflytoformsmooth,cohesiveball. Roll dough into 20 by 12-inch rectangle. Starting with short edge, rolldoughintotightcylinder.Patcylinderflatto12by4-inchrectangleandtransferto parchment paper–lined rimmed baking sheet. Cover with plastic wrap andfreezefor15minutes.

3.FORTHEFILLING:Line12-cupmuffin tinwithpaperor foil linersandspraywithvegetableoilspray.Combinegranulatedsugar,brownsugar,orangezest, cinnamon, andvanilla inmediumbowl.Removedough from freezer andplace on lightly floured counter. Roll dough into 20 by 12-inch rectangle andsprinkleevenlywithfilling,leaving½-inchborderaroundedges.Startingatlongedge,rolldoughintotightcylinderandpinchlightlytosealseam.Trim½inchdoughfromeachendanddiscard.Cutdoughinto12piecesandtransfer,cutsideup,topreparedtin.Coverlooselywithplasticandrefrigerateforatleast4hoursorupto1day.

4.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandplaceloaforcakepanonbottomofoven.Removeplastic frombunsandplace inoven.Pour3cupsboilingwaterintoloafpaninoven,closeovendoor,andletbunsriseuntilpuffedanddoubledinsize,20to30minutes.Removebunsandwaterpanfromovenandheatovento425degrees.Bakeuntilbunsbegintorise,about5minutes,thenreduceoventemperature to 325 degrees.Bake until deep golden brown, 40 to 50minutes,rotatingpanhalfway throughbaking.Letbunscool inmuffin tinonwire rackfor5minutes,thentransfertowirerackanddiscardliners.Servewarm.

TO MAKE AHEAD: Follow recipe through step 3, skipping step ofrefrigerating buns. Freeze buns, in muffin tin, until firm, about 30 minutes.Transferbuns,withliners, tozipper-lockbagandfreezeforupto1month.Tobake,returnbunstomuffintin,coverwithplastic,andrefrigerateforatleast8hoursorupto1day.Proceedwithstep4.

KEYSTEPSTOFLAKYPASTRY

1.Flattenflour-coatedbutterintolongflakesbypressingairoutofbag,sealingit,androllingoveritafewtimeswithrollingpin.

2.Addbutter-flourmixturetobowlandstirinsourcream,orangejuice,water,andeggyolk.Thenmixandkneadbrieflybeforerollingdough.

MONKEYBREAD

DOUGH

2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,softened,plus2tablespoonsmelted

1cupmilk,heatedto110degrees

⅓ cupwater,heatedto110degrees¼ cup(1¾ounces)granulatedsugar2¼ teaspoonsinstantorrapid-riseyeast3¼ cups(16¼ounces)all-purposeflour

2 teaspoonssalt

MonkeyBreadWHYTHISRECIPEWORKS Itmight have a funny name, butmonkey

breadisasoft,sweet,sticky,ultra-cinnamonytreat(itsmonikerprobablyreferstohow it’spulledapart and stuffed intoeagermouths).Toexpedite the risingandproofingofthedough,andensureourbreadhadplentyofyeastyflavor,weusedagoodamountofinstantyeast.Butterandmilkhelpedkeepthedoughrichandmoist,andalittlesugarmadethebreadsweetenoughtoeatonitsown.Adip inbutterandcinnamonsugargave themonkeybreada thick,caramel-likecoatingafteritsstintintheoven.Andadrizzleofasimpleglazefinisheditoff.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES6TO8

Makesuretouselightbrownsugarinthecoatingmix;darkbrownsugarhasastrongermolasses flavor thatcanbeoverwhelming.Afterbaking,don’t let thebreadcoolinthepanformorethan5minutesoritwillsticktothepanandcomeoutinpieces.Monkeybreadisbestservedwarm.

BROWNSUGARCOATING

1cuppacked(7ounces)lightbrownsugar



GLAZE

1cup(4ounces)confectioners’sugar

2 tablespoonsmilk

1.FORTHEDOUGH:Grease12-cupnonstickBundtpanwithsoftenedbutter;setaside.Combinemilk,water,meltedbutter, sugar,andyeast in2-cup liquidmeasuringcup.

2.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandplaceloaforcakepanonbottomofoven. Using stand mixer fitted with dough hook, mix flour and salt on lowspeed.Slowlyaddmilkmixtureandmixuntildoughcomestogether(ifdoughistoowetanddoesn’tcometogether,addupto2tablespoonsmoreflour).Increasespeed tomedium and knead until dough is shiny and smooth, 6 to 7minutes.Turndoughontolightlyflouredcounterandkneadbrieflytoformsmooth,roundball.Placedough in largegreasedbowl, coat surfacewithvegetableoil spray,andtransfertooven.Pour3cupsboilingwaterintoloafpaninoven,closeovendoor,andletdoughriseuntildoubledinsize,50minutesto1hour.

3. FOR THE BROWN SUGAR COATING: While dough rises, combinesugar and cinnamon in small bowl. Place melted butter in second bowl. Setaside.

4. TO FORMTHEBREAD: Gently remove dough from bowl and pat intorough8-inchsquare.Usingbenchscraperorknife,cutsquareintoquarters,thencuteachquarter into16pieces.Rolleachpieceofdough intoaball.Workingwithoneatatime,dipeachballinmeltedbutter,allowingexcessbuttertodripoff, then roll in sugarmixture. Layer dough balls in prepared pan, staggeringseamswheredoughballsmeet.Coverpantightlywithplasticwrap, transfer tooven,andletrestuntildoughballsarepuffyandhaverisen1to2inchesfromtopofpan,50minutesto1hour,10minutes.

5.Removedoughballsandwaterpanfromoven;adjustovenracktomedium-lowpositionandheatovento350degrees.Removeplasticandbakeuntiltopofdoughisdeeplybrownedandcaramelbeginstobubblearoundedges,30to35minutes,rotatingpanhalfwaythroughbaking.Letmonkeybreadcoolinpanfor5minutes,thenturnoutonplatterandletcoolslightly,about10minutes.

6. FOR THE GLAZE: Meanwhile, whisk sugar and milk together in smallbowluntilsmooth.Usingwhisk,drizzleglazeoverwarmmonkeybread,lettingitrunovertopandsidesofbread.Servewarm.

FORMINGMONKEYBREAD

After forming doughballs, dip eachone inmelted butter and sugar and thenplace in greasedBundtpan,staggeringseamswheredoughballsmeet.

ENGLISHMUFFINBREAD

Cornmeal

5cups(27½ounces)breadflour

4½ teaspoonsinstantorrapid-riseyeast

1 tablespoonsugar

2 teaspoonssalt


cupswholemilk,heatedto120degrees

EnglishMuffinBreadWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSWiththeirchewyinteriors,crunchycrusts,

andcraggytexture,Englishmuffinsareatreat—butthey’realsoalotofwork.Forano-fussrecipewithoutthekneading,rolling,cutting,orgriddling,wemadeasimpleloafbreadwiththeflavorandtextureofEnglishmuffins.Protein-richbreadflourgavetheloafachewyyetlightconsistency,andbakingsodacreatedthe all-important honeycombed texture. Heating the milk before mixing thedoughactivated theyeast and shortened the rising time.We simplymixed thedough,letitrise,thenbakeditinloafpansuntilthecrustwaswellbrownedandtheinteriorwasperfectlycraggy.Seethesidebarsthatfollowtherecipe.

MAKES2LOAVES

Servethisbreadwithbutterandjam.

1.Greasetwo8½by4½-inchloafpansanddustwithcornmeal.Combineflour,yeast,sugar,salt,andbakingsodainlargebowl.Stirinhotmilkuntilcombined,about 1 minute. Cover dough with greased plastic wrap and let rise in warmplacefor30minutes,oruntildoughisbubblyandhasdoubled.

2.Stirdoughanddividebetweenpreparedloafpans,pushingintocornerswithgreasedrubberspatula.(Pansshouldbeabouttwo-thirdsfull.)Coverpanswithgreasedplasticandletdoughriseinwarmplaceuntil itreachesedgesofpans,about 30minutes. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 375degrees.

3.Discardplasticandtransferpanstooven.Bakeuntilloavesarewellbrownedandregister200degrees,about30minutes,rotatingandswitchingpanshalfwaythroughbaking.Turnloavesoutontowirerackandletcoolcompletely,about1hour.Slice,toast,andserve.

TRICKSTOTHERIGHTTEXTURE

TogiveourEnglishMuffinBread theproperchewandporous texture,weneededa few tricks.High-proteinbreadflourallowsmoreglutentodevelopinthebatterforasatisfyinglychewyloaf.Stirring baking soda in with the other dry ingredients gives the bread extra rise for anappropriatelycoarse,honeycombedtexture.

AWELL-DRESSEDTABLE

Bytheendofthe19thcentury,theEnglishwerelosingtheirtasteforEnglish-stylemuffins,butintheU.S. theyhadbecomesuchapopularbreakfastbread that theproperlysetbreakfast tablerequired special dishes for serving them. Victorians, of course, were ardent believers that thecorrect home environment shaped correct behavior; proper dining and tableware, especially,equatedwith proper civilization. Sowealthy families had specific dishware for everything, fromglass or silver vases for celery to custom dishes to hold bananas to specialized vessels andutensilsforservingsardines.Anddon’tforgetasparagusforks.

BROWNSODABREAD


1½ cups(8¼ounces)whole-wheatflour½

cuptoastedwheatgerm

3 tablespoonssugar

1½

teaspoonssalt


BrownSodaBreadWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSForabrownsodabreadwithgoodwheaty

flavorbutwithoutagummy,densetexture,westartedbyfindingtherightratioofwhole-wheat to all-purpose flour.Toastedwheatgermplayedup the sweet,nuttyflavorofthewholewheat.Tokeepthetexturelight,weneededplentyofleavening; baking soda alone gave the bread a soapy taste, so we used acombinationofbakingsodaandbakingpowder.Justatouchofsugarandafewtablespoons of butter kept our bread wholesome but not “health foody,” andbrushing a portion of themelted butter on the loaf after baking gave it a richcrust.Seethesidebarsthatfollowtherecipe.

MAKES1LOAF

Toastedwheatgermissoldinjarsatwell-stockedsupermarkets.


1¾

cupsbuttermilk


1.Adjustovenracktolower-middlepositionandheatovento400degrees.Linerimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Whisk all-purpose flour, whole-wheatflour,wheatgerm,sugar,salt,bakingpowder,andbakingsodatogetherinlargebowl.Combinebuttermilkand2tablespoonsmeltedbutterin2-cupliquidmeasuringcup.

2.Addwetingredientstodryingredientsandstirwithrubberspatulauntildoughjustcomestogether.Turnoutdoughontolightlyflouredcounterandkneaduntilcohesivemassforms,about8turns.Patdoughinto7-inchroundandtransfertoprepared baking sheet. Using sharp serrated knife, make ¼-inch-deep crossabout5 inches longon topof loaf.Bakeuntilskewer inserted incentercomesoutcleanandloafregisters195degrees,45to50minutes,rotatingbakingsheethalfwaythroughbaking.

3.Removebreadfromoven.Brushwithremaining1tablespoonmeltedbutter.Transferloaftowirerackandletcoolforatleast1hour.Serve.

BROWNSODABREADWITHCURRANTSANDCARAWAY

Add1cupdriedcurrantsand1 tablespooncarawayseeds todryingredients instep1.

FASTEST.BREAD.EVER.

Noyeast,norisetime,andalmostnokneadingorshaping.

Measureandwhiskdryingredients:5minutes

Measureandcombinewetingredients:2minutes

Stirwetintodry:1minute

Kneadbriefly:1minute

Shapesimply:1minute

Totalworktime:10minutes

MIMICKINGWHOLE-MEALFLOUR

Classic brown Irish soda bread is robust and moist with a delicious wheaty sweetness.Traditionally, thisbreadaddscoarse,whole-meal flour to theall-purpose flourused in themorefamiliarIrishsodabreadtogetthatuniquelywheatyflavor.Butwhole-mealflourishardtofindintheUnitedStates.Many recipessimply substituteordinarywhole-wheat flour,whileothers skipthewhite flourentirely,combining thewhole-wheat flourwithpractically theentirecontentsofanaturalfoodsstore.Predictably,theformerproducedloaveswithwanwheatflavor,whilethelattermadeloaveswithgreattastebutheavy,crumblytextures.

Togettherightflavorandtexture,wetriedvariousratiosofall-purposeandwhole-wheatfloursuntilwelandedon2cupsofwhiteflourcombinedwith1Ɖcupsofwhole-wheatforaloafwithnicewheatflavorandmildsweetness.Toroundoutthatflavorandplayupthetoasty,nuttyaspects,wetriedaddingbyturnswheatgerm(theembryoofthewheatberry),wheatbran(theouterlayerof thegrain that’s removed tomakewhite flour),andoatmeal (whichwe toastedandground tomakeoat flour).All of themgaveour loaf thecomplexwheatinesswewereafter, but thebranrequiredatriptoaspecialtystore,whiletheoatsneededbothtoastingandprocessing.Toastedwheat germ is sold in convenient jars at the supermarket, so that’swhatweuse to enrich ourwheatyloaf.

Acombinationofwhole-wheatflour,all-purposeflour,andtoastedwheatgermgiveourloafbothrobustflavorandtender,moisttexture.

DAKOTABREAD

2cupswarmwater(110degrees)

1½ cups(7½ounces)seven-grainhotcerealmix

2 tablespoonshoney


3½ cups(19¼ounces)breadflour1¾

teaspoonssalt

teaspooninstantorrapid-riseyeast

DakotaBreadWHYTHISRECIPEWORKS This hearty loaf from the breadbasket of

Americausuallycontainsadauntingvarietyof floursandseeds.Weshortenedtheingredientlistbyusingseven-graincerealmix.Thisoneeasyadditiongaveour loaf hearty texture and complex flavor. To round it out, we stirred someseedsintothebatterandsprinkledmoreontopoftheloaf.Startingthebreadinahot oven created an initial “spring,” giving the loaf a lighter crumb, thenloweringthetemperaturepreventedtheseedsfromburning.High-proteinbreadflourallowedourloaftorisehigh,andapanofwaterintheovenpreventedthecrustfromsettingbeforethebreadhadfullyrisen.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

MAKESONE10-INCHLOAF

In step 2, if the dough is still sticking to the sides of themixing bowl after 2minutes,addmoreflour1tablespoonatatime,upto3tablespoons.Besuretousehotcerealmix,notboxedcoldbreakfastcereals,whichmayalsobelabeled“seven-grain.”

1

3tablespoonsraw,unsaltedpepitas

3tablespoonsraw,unsaltedsunflowerseeds

1 teaspoonsesameseeds

1 teaspoonpoppyseeds


1.Greaselargebowl.Linerimmedbakingsheetwithparchmentpaper.Inbowlofstandmixer,combinewater,cereal,honey,andoilandletsitfor10minutes.

2.Addflour,salt,andyeasttocerealmixture.Fitstandmixerwithdoughhookandkneadonlowspeeduntildoughissmoothandelastic,4to6minutes.Add2tablespoonspepitasand2tablespoonssunflowerseedstodoughandkneadfor1minutelonger.Turnoutdoughontolightlyflouredcounterandkneaduntilseedsareevenlydistributed,about2minutes.

3.Transferdoughtogreasedbowlandcoverwithplasticwrap.Letdoughriseatroomtemperatureuntilalmostdoubledinsizeandfingertipdepressionindoughspringsbackslowly,60to90minutes.

4.Gently press downon center of dough to deflate.Transfer dough to lightlyflouredcounterandshapeintotightroundball.Placedoughonpreparedsheet.Coverdough looselywithplasticand let riseat room temperatureuntil almostdoubledinsize,60to90minutes.

5.Adjustovenrackstoupper-middleandlowestpositionsandheatovento425degrees. Combine remaining 1 tablespoon pepitas, remaining 1 tablespoonsunflower seeds, sesame seeds, and poppy seeds in small bowl. Using sharpknife,make¼-inch-deepcross,5incheslong,ontopofloaf.Brushloafwitheggandsprinkleseedmixtureevenlyovertop.

6.Place8½by4½-inchloafpanonlowestovenrackandfillwith1cupboilingwater.Placebakingsheetwithdoughonupper-middlerackandreduceovento375degrees.Bakeuntilcrustisdarkbrownandbreadregisters200degrees,40to50minutes.Transferloaftowirerackandletcoolcompletely,about2hours.Serve.

THERIGHTMIX

OurDakotaBreadrecipecallsforbreadflour(foranappropriatelychewytexture)supplementedwithseven-grainhotcerealmix,whichprovidesthebreadwithnuttydepth.Don’tconfuseseven-grainhotcerealwithseven-graincoldcereal;thelatterwillharmthetextureoftheloaf.

HOTTOTROTSeven-grainhotcereal

CHAPTER 9: GREAT AMERICANCAKESANDCOOKIES

RedVelvetCake

ChocolateBlackoutCake

TunnelofFudgeCake

LaneCake

StrawberryDreamCake

StrawberryPokeCake

TexasSheetCake

ChocolateÉclairCake

MagicChocolateFlanCake

TresLechesCake

AngelFoodCake

ChiffonCake

ItalianCreamCake

CreamCheesePoundCake

Cold-OvenPoundCake

ChocolateCreamCupcakes

HotFudgePuddingCake

LemonPuddingCake

LemonIceboxCheesecake

MeltingMoments

Slice-and-BakeCookies

FairyGingerbread

JoeFroggers

BlackandWhiteCookies

WhoopiePies

Whenmostofusthinkofcake,wethinkoflight,moistlayercakesswathedinfluffyfrostingor rich, fine-crumbedpoundcakes,but thesecakesaremostlya20th-century innovation. Prior to 1850, most cakes were leavened with eggs(and/oryeast)andwereoftenpackedwithdriedfruitandnuts—thinktraditionalfruitcakeandyou’reon theright track.Theyrequiredastrongarmtomixandwere heavy, dense affairs.Chemical leaveners such as creamof tartar, bakingpowder, and baking soda revolutionized cakemaking in the late 19th century,cuttingoutnotonlymuchofthelaborandpreparationtimebutalsothecost—eggscouldbeveryexpensive.Caseinpoint:ArecipeforPlainWhiteCakefromDixieCookery (1867) instructs the reader to “creama pound and a quarter ofbutter, andbeat it into apoundandahalf of sugar andapoundandahalf offlouralternatelywiththebeatenwhitesofthirtyeggs.”Thirtyeggs!

Inthischapterweincludeawidevarietyofbelovedcakes,includingetherealAngel Food Cake and its easier cousin, Chiffon Cake (whose inventor usedvegetableoilasthesecretingredient),aswellasvibrantRedVelvetCake(withits tangy cream cheese frosting), Strawberry Poke Cake (a cake borne of amarketingcampaignforJell-O),andmanymore.Cookiesgettheirduehere,too.Incontrasttothelaborandtimeinvolvedin

preparing a cake (even amodern one), it’s a cinch tomakemost cookies andthey’re in and out of the oven in minutes—making their appeal to childrenundeniable.Inkeepingwiththeirkid-friendlyqualities,it’snowondersomanycookieshavefancifulnames.Inthefollowingpages,weincluderecipesforsuchcookies as Fairy Gingerbread, Joe Froggers,MeltingMoments, andmore. So

pouryourselfaglassofcoldmilkandjoinusaswere-createclassiccakesandcookiesthatadultsandkidsalikewillenjoy.

REDVELVETCAKE

CAKE

2¼ cups(11¼ounces)all-purposeflour1½

teaspoonsbakingsoda

Pinchsalt

1 cupbuttermilk

2 largeeggs

1 tablespoondistilledwhitevinegar

RedVelvetCakeWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSAlthoughtheexactoriginsofthiscakeare

muddled, the appeal of a tender, shockingly bright red cake swathed in fluffycreamcheesefrostingisundeniable.Foracakewithanextra-tendercrumb,weusedtwounexpectedingredients:buttermilkandvinegar.Theyreactedwithourrecipe’s baking soda to create a fine, tender crumb.We also zeroed in on theperfectamountofcocoathatwouldaddadarkhuetoourcakeaswellaslendingitapleasantcocoaflavor.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES12

Thisrecipemustbepreparedwithnaturalcocoapowder.Dutch-processedcocoawillnotyieldthepropercolororrise.


2 tablespoonscocoa

2tablespoons(1ounce)redfoodcoloring


1½ cups(10½ounces)granulatedsugar

FROSTING


4cups(16ounces)confectioners’sugar

16ouncescreamcheese,cutinto8pieces,softened

1½

teaspoonsvanillaextract

Pinchsalt

1.FORTHECAKE:Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento350degrees.Greasetwo9-inchroundcakepans,linewithparchmentpaper,greaseparchment,thenflourpans.Whiskflour,bakingsoda,andsaltinmediumbowl.Whiskbuttermilk,eggs,vinegar,andvanillain4-cupliquidmeasuringcup.Mixcocoawithfoodcoloringinsmallbowluntilsmoothpasteforms.

2. Using stand mixer fitted with paddle, beat butter and sugar together onmedium high speed until pale and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Reduce speed tomedium-low and add flourmixture in 3 additions, alternatingwith buttermilkmixturein2additions,scrapingdownbowlasneeded.Addcocoamixtureandbeat onmedium speed until completely incorporated, about 30 seconds. Givebatter final stir by hand. Scrape batter into prepared pans and bake untiltoothpickinsertedincentercomesoutclean,about25minutes.Letcakescoolinpans on wire rack for 10 minutes. Remove cakes from pans, discardingparchment,andletcoolcompletelyonrack,about2hours.(Cooledcakescanbewrappedtightlyinplasticwrapandkeptatroomtemperatureforupto1day.)3.FORTHEFROSTING:Usingstandmixerfittedwithpaddle,beatbutterandsugaronmedium-highspeeduntilpaleandfluffy,about2minutes.Addcreamcheese,1pieceatatime,andbeatuntilincorporated,about30seconds.Beatinvanillaandsalt.Refrigerateuntilreadytouse.

4.Whencakesarecooled,coveredgesofcakeplatterwithstripsofparchment.Place 1 cake layer on platter. Spread 2 cups frosting evenly over top, right toedgeof cake.Topwith secondcake layer,press lightly to adhere, then spreadremaining frosting evenly over top and sides of cake. Carefully removeparchmentstripsbeforeserving.(Cakecanberefrigeratedforupto3days.)

LOSTANDFOUND

Redvelvet cake fell out of fashion in the1970samidst health scares relating to reddye#2 (asimilarfatebefellredM&Ms,eventhoughthecandiesnevercontainedthedyeinquestion).Onceconsumers were convinced that other red dyes were safe, red candies made it back into theM&Msassortment(in1987)andredvelvetcakesstartedacomebackinbakeries.

CHOCOLATEBLACKOUTCAKE

PUDDING

1¼ cups(8¾ounces)granulatedsugar¼

cupcornstarch

½

teaspoonsalt

2cupshalf-and-half

1 cupwholemilk

ouncesunsweetenedchocolate,chopped

ChocolateBlackoutCakeWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSChocolateblackoutcake,atenderchocolate

layercakesandwichedtogetherwithapuddinglikefillingandcoveredwithcakecrumbs,wascreatedbythenow-shutteredEbinger’sbakeryinBrooklyn.Wesetouttocreateourownversion.Westartedbyaddingcocoapowdertothebutterwewerealreadymeltingforthecake.Heatingthecocoainthebutterproducedacakethatwasdarkandrich.Andtocomplementthechocolateflavorofthecake,wemadeachocolaty,dairy-richpuddingwithacombinationofmilkandhalf-and-half,whichgaveitavelvety, lushquality.Seethesidebar thatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES10TO12

Besuretogivethepuddingandthecakeenoughtimetocooloryou’llendupwithrunnypuddingandgummycake.

6

2 teaspoonsvanillaextract

CAKE

1½ cups(7½ounces)all-purposeflour


½

teaspoonbakingsoda

½

teaspoonsalt


¾ cup(2¼ounces)Dutch-processedcocoa

1 cupbrewedcoffee

1 cupbuttermilk


1cup(7ounces)granulatedsugar

2 largeeggs


1.FORTHEPUDDING:Whisksugar,cornstarch,salt,half-and-half,andmilkin large saucepan. Set pan over medium heat. Add chocolate and whiskconstantlyuntil chocolatemelts andmixturebegins tobubble, 2 to4minutes.Stirinvanillaandtransferpuddingtolargebowl.Placeplasticwrapdirectlyonsurfaceofpuddingandrefrigerateuntilcold,atleast4hoursorupto1day.

2.FORTHECAKELAYERS:Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatoven to325degrees.Grease two8-inch roundcakepans, linewithparchmentpaper, grease parchment, then flour pans.Whisk flour, bakingpowder, bakingsoda,andsaltinbowl.

3.Meltbutterinlargesaucepanovermediumheat.Stirincocoaandcookuntilfragrant,about1minute.Offheat,whiskincoffee,buttermilk,brownsugar,andgranulatedsugaruntildissolved.Whiskineggsandvanilla,thenslowlywhiskinflourmixture.

4.Dividebatterevenlybetweenpreparedpansandbakeuntiltoothpickinsertedincentercomesoutclean,30to35minutes.Letcakescoolinpansonwirerackfor 15minutes. Remove cakes from pans, discarding parchment, and let coolcompletelyonwirerack,about2hours.

5. TOASSEMBLE THECAKE:Working with 1 cake layer at a time, cutcakeshorizontallyinto2layersusinglong,serratedknife.Crumble1cakelayerintomedium crumbs and set aside. Cover edges of cake platterwith strips ofparchment.Place1cakelayeronplatter.Spread1cuppuddingovertop,righttoedgeofcake.Topwithsecondlayer;presslightlytoadhere.Repeatwith1cuppuddingandlastcakelayer.Spreadremainingpuddingevenlyovertopandsidesofcake.Sprinklecakecrumbsevenlyovertopandsidesofcake,pressinglightlytoadherecrumbs.Carefullyremoveparchmentstripsbeforeserving.(Cakecanberefrigeratedforupto2days.)

LOSTICON

Ebinger’s Baking Company opened in 1898 on Flatbush Avenue in Brooklyn and grew into achainofmorethan60storesbeforegoingbankrupt in1972.StartedbyArthurEbinger,abakerwhoemigratedfromGermanywithavastcollectionofrecipes,thebusinessgrewto includehiswife and their three sons. During its heyday, Ebinger’s was a point of bragging rights forBrooklynites, as celebrities and the well-to-do fromManhattan never went to Brooklyn withouttaking home a cake or one of Ebinger’s other specialties, which included challah, rye bread,pumpkinpie,Othellos(filledminispongecakescoveredinchocolate),andcrumbbuns.

TUNNELOFFUDGECAKE

CAKE

¾ cup(2¼ounces)Dutch-processedcocoa,plusextrafordustingpan½

cupboilingwater

2ouncesbittersweetchocolate,chopped


TunnelofFudgeCake WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS We wanted to resurrect the classic

childhood favorite tunnel of fudge cake without the benefit of a prepackagedcakemix.Dutch-processedcocoagaveourcakedeepchocolateflavor.Addingmelted chocolate to the batter made our cake moister and contributed morechocolate punch. Slightly underbaking the cake was the first step towardachievingtheidealconsistencyforthetunnel.Replacingsomeofthegranulatedsugarwith brown sugar and cutting back on the flour and butter provided theperfectenvironmentforthefudgyinteriortoform.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES12TO14

Foranaccuratemeasurementofboilingwater,bringa fullkettleofwater toaboil,thenmeasureoutthedesiredamount.Donotuseacaketester,toothpick,orskewer to test the cake—the fudgy interior won’t give an accurate reading.Instead,removethecakefromtheovenwhenthesidesjustbegintopullawayfromthepanandthesurfaceofthecakespringsbackwhenpressedgentlywithyourfinger.

2cupspecansorwalnuts,choppedfine


1 teaspoonsalt


1 tablespoonvanillaextract

20tablespoons(2½sticks)unsaltedbutter,softened


¾ cuppacked(5¼ounces)lightbrownsugar

CHOCOLATEGLAZE

¾

cupheavycream

¼

cuplightcornsyrup

8ouncesbittersweetchocolate,chopped

½


1.FORTHECAKE:Adjustovenracktolower-middlepositionandheatovento 350 degrees. Grease 12-cup Bundt pan and dust with cocoa powder. Pourboilingwateroverchocolateinmediumbowlandwhiskuntilsmooth.Letcooltoroomtemperature.Whiskcocoa,flour,pecans,confectioners’sugar,andsaltinlargebowl.Whiskeggsandvanillain4-cupliquidmeasuringcup.

2.Usingstandmixerfittedwithpaddle,beatbutter,granulatedsugar,andbrownsugar on medium-high speed until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes. On lowspeed, add egg mixture until combined, about 30 seconds. Add chocolatemixtureandbeatuntilincorporated,about30seconds.Beatinflourmixtureuntiljustcombined,about30seconds.

3. Scrape batter into prepared pan, smooth batter, and bake until edges arebeginningtopullawayfrompan,about45minutes.Letcoolinpanonwirerackfor1½hours, then invertontoservingplateand letcoolcompletely,at least2hours.

4. FOR THE GLAZE: Heat cream, corn syrup, and chocolate in smallsaucepanovermediumheat,stirringconstantly,untilsmooth.Stirinvanillaandsetasideuntilslightlythickened,about30minutes.Drizzleglazeovercakeandletsetforatleast10minutes.Serve.(Cakecanbestoredatroomtemperatureforupto2days.)

BIRTHOFTHEBUNDTPAN

MetallurgicalengineerH.DavidDalquistinventedtheBundtpanin1950attherequestofbakersinMinneapoliswhowereusingold-fashionedceramicpansofthesamedesign.Dalquistturnedtocastaluminumtoproduceapanthatwasmuchlighterandeasiertouse.SalesofhisBundtpan(anamehetrademarked)wereunderwhelminguntilEllaHelfrich’sTunnelofFudgeCakemadeitsdebutin1966.ThePillsburyCompanyquicklyreceivedover200,000requestsforthepan,andtomeetdemandDalquist’scompany,NordicWare,wentinto24-hourproduction.Over50millionBundtpanshavebeensoldworldwide.

LANECAKE

CAKE

1cupwholemilk,roomtemperature

6largeeggwhites,roomtemperature


2¼ cups(9ounces)cakeflour1¾ cups(12¼ounces)sugar


1 teaspoonsalt

tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,cutinto12piecesandsoftened

LaneCakeWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSLanecakeisatall,fluffy,snow-whitecake

filledwitharich,sweetmixtureofeggwhites,butter,raisins,and“awineglassfullofgoodwhiskey.”Oursimplifiedrecipecappedthenumberoflayersattwo,and using a food processor streamlined much of the tedious prep work.Replacing sugar with boiled corn syrup in our frosting quickly brought thewhipped egg whites to a safe temperature without resorting to a candythermometerorcomplicated(andunreliable)guesswork.

SERVES10TO12

12

FILLING

5 tablespoonsbourbon

1 tablespoonheavycream


Pinchsalt

⅓

cupsweetenedshreddedcoconut

¾

cuppecans

¾

cupgoldenraisins


¾

cupsweetenedcondensedmilk

½


FROSTING


¼


¼ cup(1¾ounces)sugar⅔

cuplightcornsyrup


1.FORTHECAKE:Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento350degrees.Greasetwo9-inchroundcakepans,linewithparchmentpaper,greaseparchment,thenflourpans.Whiskmilk,eggwhites,andvanillain4-cupliquidmeasuring cup.Using standmixer fittedwithpaddle,mix flour, sugar, bakingpowder,andsaltonlowspeeduntilcombined.Addbutter,1pieceatatime,andbeatuntilonlypea-sizepiecesremain.Addhalfofmilkmixture,increasespeedtomedium-high,andbeatuntillightandfluffy,about1minute.Reducespeedtomedium-low,addremainingmilkmixture,andbeatuntilincorporated,about30seconds.Givebatterfinalstirbyhand.

2. Scrape batter into prepared pans andbake until toothpick inserted in centercomesoutclean,20 to25minutes.Letcakescool inpansonwirerackfor10minutes. Remove cakes from pans, discarding parchment, and let coolcompletely on racks, about 2 hours. (Cooled cakes can be tightly wrapped inplasticwrapandstoredatroomtemperatureforupto2days.)

3.FORTHEFILLING:Whiskbourbon, cream, cornstarch, and salt inbowluntil smooth. Process coconut in food processor until finely ground, about 15seconds. Add pecans and raisins and pulse until coarsely ground, about 10pulses. Melt butter in large skillet over medium-low heat. Add processedcoconut mixture and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden brown andfragrant, about 5minutes. Stir in bourbonmixture and bring to boil. Removefromheatandaddcondensedmilkandvanilla.Transfertomediumbowlandletcool to room temperature, about 30 minutes. (Filling can be refrigerated inairtightcontainerfor2days.Bringfillingtoroomtemperaturebeforeusing.)4.FORTHEFROSTING:Usingstandmixerfittedwithwhisk,whipeggwhitesandcreamoftartaronmedium-highspeeduntilfrothy,about30seconds.Withmixer running, slowly add sugar and whip until soft peaks form, about 2minutes;setaside.Bringcornsyruptoboilinsmallsaucepanovermedium-highheat and cook until large bubbles appear around perimeter of pan, about 1minute.Withmixer running, slowlypourhot syrup intowhites (avoidpouringsyrup onto beaters or it will splash). Add vanilla and beat until mixture hascooledandisverythickandglossy,3to5minutes.

5.Coveredgesofcakeplatterwith stripsofparchment.Place1cake layeronplatter.Spreadfillingovercake,thentopwithsecondcakelayer,pressinglightly

toadhere.Spreadremainingfrostingevenlyovertopandsidesofcake.Carefullyremoveparchment strips before serving. (Cake can be refrigerated for up to 2days.)

STRAWBERRYDREAMCAKE

CAKE

10ouncesfrozenwholestrawberries(2cups)

¾ cupwholemilk,roomtemperature



2¼ cups(9ounces)cakeflour1¾ cups(12¼ounces)granulatedsugar


StrawberryDreamCakeWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSStrangeasitmayseem,thevastmajorityof

existingstrawberrycakerecipesturntostrawberryJell-Oforflavor.Hopingtoavoid this artificial solution,weperformed test after test to figureout thebestwaytoflavorourcakewithactualstrawberries.Anystrawberrysolidswreakedhavoc on the tender cake, but strained and reduced strawberry juices kept ourcake light and packed a strawberry punch.Not to be left behind, the reservedstrawberrysolidsenrichedthefrostingwithmoreberryflavor.

SERVES8TO10

Be sure to allow the cream cheese to soften so that it blends into a smoothfrosting.

1 teaspoonsalt


FROSTING


2¼ cups(9ounces)confectioners’sugar

12ouncescreamcheese,cutinto12piecesandsoftened

Pinchsalt

8ouncesfreshstrawberries,hulledandslicedthin(about1½cups)

1.FORTHECAKE:Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento350degrees.Greasetwo9-inchroundcakepans,linewithparchmentpaper,greaseparchment,thenflourpans.

2. Transfer strawberries to bowl, cover, andmicrowave until strawberries aresoftandhavereleasedtheirjuices,about5minutes.Placeinfine-meshstrainersetoversmallsaucepan.Firmlypressfruitdry(juiceshouldmeasureatleast¾cup); reservestrawberrysolids.Bring juice toboilovermedium-highheatandcook,stirringoccasionally,until syrupyandreduced to¼cup,6 to8minutes.Whiskmilkintojuiceuntilcombined.

3.Whiskstrawberry-milkmixture,eggwhites,andvanillainbowl.Usingstandmixerfittedwithpaddle,mixflour,sugar,bakingpowder,andsaltonlowspeeduntilcombined.Addbutter,1pieceatatime,andmixuntilonlypea-sizepiecesremain, about 1minute.Addhalf ofmilkmixture, increase speed tomedium-high,andbeatuntillightandfluffy,about1minute.Reducespeedtomedium-low,addremainingmilkmixture,andbeatuntilincorporated,about30seconds.Givebatterfinalstirbyhand.

4. Scrape batter into prepared pans andbake until toothpick inserted in centercomesout clean, 20 to 25minutes, rotating pans halfway throughbaking.Letcakes cool in pans on wire rack for 10 minutes. Remove cakes from pans,discardingparchment,and letcoolcompletelyon rack,about2hours. (Cooledcakescanbetightlywrappedwithplasticwrapandstoredatroomtemperaturefor up to 2 days.) 5. FORTHE FROSTING: Using standmixer fitted withpaddle,mix butter and sugar on low speed until combined, about 30 seconds.Increasespeedtomedium-highandbeatuntilpaleandfluffy,about2minutes.Addcreamcheese,1pieceatatime,andbeatuntilincorporated,about1minute.Add reserved strawberry solids and salt and mix until combined, about 30seconds.Refrigerateuntilreadytouse,upto2days.

6.Patstrawberriesdrywithpapertowels.Coveredgesofcakeplatterwithstripsofparchment.Place1cakelayeronplatter.Spread¾cupfrostingevenlyovertop, right toedgeofcake.Press1cupstrawberries ineven layerover frostingand cover with additional ¾ cup frosting. Top with second cake layer, presslightly to adhere, then spread remaining frosting evenly over top and sides of

cake.Garnishwith remaining strawberries.Carefully remove parchment stripsbeforeserving.(Cakecanberefrigeratedforupto2days.)

STRAWBERRYPOKECAKE

CAKE

2¼ cups(11¼ounces)all-purposeflour


1 teaspoonsalt

1 cupwholemilk


StrawberryPokeCakeWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSStrawberrypokecakewasinventedin1969

asawaytoincreaseJell-Osales.Itquicklybecamepopularthankstoitsfestivelook and easy assembly. But we encountered two problems: dull strawberryflavor and soggybox-mix cake.For a sturdier cake thatwouldhold up to hotgelatin,weoptedtomakeourownwhitecakefromscratch.Andtoimprovethestrawberry flavor of the Jell-O, we combined it with the juice from cookedstrawberries.Makingahomemade“jam”fromtheberrysolidsandspreadingthemixtureontopofthecakegaveourcakeanextralayerofflavor.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES12

The top of the cakewill look slightly overbaked—this keeps the crumb frombecomingtoosoggyafterthegelatinispouredontop.

6 largeeggwhites


1¾ cups(12¼ounces)sugar

SYRUPANDTOPPING

4 cupsfrozenstrawberries

½

cupwater

6tablespoons(2⅔ounces)sugar

2 tablespoonsorangejuice

2tablespoonsstrawberry-flavoredgelatin

2cupsheavycream,chilled

1.FORTHECAKE:Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento350degrees. Grease 13 by 9-inch baking pan, line with parchment paper, greaseparchment,thenflourpan.Whiskflour,bakingpowder,andsaltinbowl.Whiskmilk,vanilla,andeggwhitesin4-cupliquidmeasuringcup.

2.Usingstandmixerfittedwithpaddle,beatbutterandsugaronmedium-highspeed until pale and fluffy, about 2 minutes, scraping down bowl as needed.Reducespeedtolowandaddflourmixturein3additions,alternatingwithmilkmixture in 2 additions, beating after each addition until combined, about 30secondseachtime,scrapingdownbowlasneeded.Givebatterfinalstirbyhand.Scrapeintopreparedpanandbakeuntil toothpick inserted incentercomesoutclean,about35minutes.Letcakecoolcompletelyinpan,atleast1hour.Oncecool,cakecanbewrappedinplasticwrapandkeptatroomtemperatureforupto2days.

3. FOR THE SYRUP AND TOPPING: Heat 3 cups strawberries, water, 2tablespoonssugar,andorangejuiceinmediumsaucepanovermedium-lowheat.Coverandcookuntilstrawberriesaresoftened,about10minutes.Strainliquidinto bowl, reserving solids, then whisk gelatin into liquid. Let cool to roomtemperature,atleast20minutes.

4.Meanwhile,poke50deepholesallovertopofcakewithskewer.Evenlypourcooled liquid over top of cake. Wrap with plastic wrap and refrigerate untilgelatinisset,atleast3hoursorupto2days.

5.Pulsereservedstrainedstrawberries,2tablespoonssugar,andremaining1cupstrawberriesinfoodprocessoruntilmixtureresemblesstrawberryjam,about15pulses.Spreadmixtureevenlyovercake.Using standmixer fittedwithwhisk,whip cream with remaining 2 tablespoons sugar on medium-low speed untilfoamy,about1minute.Increasespeedtohighandwhipuntilsoftpeaksform,1to3minutes.Spreadcreamoverstrawberries.Serve.(Cakecanberefrigeratedforupto2days.)

PERFECTINGTHEPOKE

Findingtherightpokingdevicewasn’tassimpleasyoumight think.Toothpicksweretoosmall,while straws, handles ofwooden spoons, pencils, and fingerswere too big. Awooden skewerfinallydidthetrick.Butjustpokingdidn’tcreatealargeenoughholefortheliquidtoseepinto.Inordertocreatedeeplinesofredcoloragainstthewhitecrumb,wehadtopokeandthentwisttheskewertoreallyseparatethecrumb.

1. Using skewer, poke about 50 deep holes over cake, being careful not to poke through tobottom.Twistskewertoenlargeholes.

2.Slowlypourcooledgelatinmixtureevenlyoversurfaceofcakeanditwillslowlysoakintocake.

TEXASSHEETCAKE

CAKE


2cups(14ounces)granulatedsugar

½

teaspoonbakingsoda

½

teaspoonsalt

largeeggsplus2largeyolks

TexasSheetCakeWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSTexas sheet cake is a huge, pecan-topped

chocolate-glazed cake.For the cake,we reliedon a combinationof butter andvegetable oil, which produced a dense, brownielike texture. To increase thefudgy chocolate flavor, we used both cocoa powder and melted semisweetchocolate.Replacingmilkwith heavy cream gave the icingmore body,whileaddingcornsyrupproducedalustrousfinish.Thekeytocreatingthesignaturefudgylayerbetweencakeandicingwastoletthewarmicingsoakintothehotcake. We poured the icing over the sheet cake straight out of the oven andsmootheditwithaspatula.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES24

Toastthepecansinadryskilletovermediumheat,shakingthepanoccasionally,untilgoldenandfragrant,aboutfiveminutes.

2

¼

cupsourcream


8ouncessemisweetchocolate,chopped

¾

cupvegetableoil

¾

cupwater

½ cup(1½ounces)Dutch-processedcocoa


CHOCOLATEICING


½

cupheavycream


1 tablespoonlightcornsyrup



1cuppecans,toastedandchopped

1.FORTHECAKE:Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento350degrees. Grease 18 by 13-inch rimmed baking sheet. Combine flour, sugar,baking soda, and salt in large bowl. Whisk eggs and yolks, sour cream, andvanillainanotherbowluntilsmooth.

2.Heatchocolate,oil,water,cocoa,andbutter in largesaucepanovermediumheat, stirring occasionally, until smooth, 3 to 5 minutes. Whisk chocolatemixture into flour mixture until incorporated. Whisk egg mixture into batter,then pour into prepared baking pan. Bake until toothpick inserted into centercomesoutclean,18to20minutes.Transfertowirerack.

3.FORTHEICING:About5minutesbeforecakeisdone,heatbutter,cream,cocoa,andcornsyrupinlargesaucepanovermediumheat,stirringoccasionally,until smooth.Off heat,whisk in sugar and vanilla. Spreadwarm icing evenlyoverhotcakeandsprinklewithpecans.Letcakecool to room temperatureonwirerack,about1hour, thenrefrigerateuntil icing isset,about1hour longer.Cutinto3-inchsquares.Serve.(Cakecanberefrigeratedforupto2days.)

TIMINGISEVERYTHING

Thekey toperfectlymoistTexassheetcake is to let thewarm icingsoak into thehotcake.Assoonasthecakecomesoutoftheoven,pourthewarmicingoverthecakeanduseaspatulatospreadtheicingtotheedgesofthecake.Thiscreatesthefudgylayerbetweentheicingandthecake.

CHOCOLATEÉCLAIRCAKE



1 teaspoonsalt

5 cupswholemilk



1¼

ChocolateÉclairCakeWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSThisno-bakedessert is typicallymadeby

layering amixture of instant vanilla pudding andCoolWhip between grahamcrackers and topping it with chocolate frosting.We loved the convenience ofthese store-bought items, but our enthusiasmwanedwhen confronted by theirflavor.With a couple of easy techniques (a quick stovetop pudding, whippedcream,andamicrowave-and-stirglaze)andverylittleactivetime,weproduceda from-scratch version that easily trumped its inspiration. See the sidebar thatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES15

Sixouncesof finelychopped semisweet chocolatecanbeused inplaceof thechips.


2 tablespoonswater

2¾ cupsheavycream,chilled

14 ouncesgrahamcrackers

1 cupsemisweetchocolatechips

5 tablespoonslightcornsyrup

1.Combinesugar,cornstarch,andsaltinlargesaucepan.Whiskmilkintosugarmixtureuntil smoothandbring toboil, scrapingbottomofpanwithheatproofrubberspatula,overmedium-highheat.Immediatelyreduceheattomedium-lowandcook,continuingtoscrapebottom,untilthickenedandlargebubblesappearon surface, 4 to 6 minutes. Off heat, whisk in butter and vanilla. Transferpudding to large bowl and place plastic wrap directly on surface of pudding.Refrigerateuntilcool,about2hours.

2.Sprinklegelatinoverwater inbowland let sit until gelatin softens, about5minutes. Microwave until mixture is bubbling around edges and gelatindissolves,15 to30 seconds.Using standmixer fittedwithwhisk,whip2cupscreamonmedium-lowspeeduntilfoamy,about1minute.Increasespeedtohighandwhipuntil softpeaks form,1 to3minutes.Addgelatinmixtureandwhipuntilstiffpeaksform,about1minute.

3.Whiskone-thirdofwhippedcream intochilledpudding, thengently fold inremainingwhippedcream,1scoopata time,untilcombined.Coverbottomof13 by 9-inch baking dishwith layer of graham crackers, breaking crackers asnecessary to line bottom of pan. Top with half of pudding–-whipped creammixture (about 5½ cups) and another layer of graham crackers. Repeat withremainingpudding–-whippedcreammixtureandremaininggrahamcrackers.

4.Microwavechocolatechips,remaining¾cupcream,andcornsyrupinbowl,on 50 percent power, stirring occasionally, until smooth, 1 to 2 minutes. Letglazecooltoroomtemperature,about10minutes.Covergrahamcrackerswithglazeandrefrigeratecakefor6to24hours.Serve.(Cakecanberefrigeratedforupto2days.)

THEWORSTCOLLEGEFOODEVER

TheReverendSylvesterGraham,theinventorofthegrahamcracker,wasn’tquiteasmuchfunasthat crisp treatmight have you believe. In fact, hewas a food zealot, convinced that a diet ofnothingbutwaterandgrahamcrackers—originallya“health food”madefromwhole-wheat flourand honey—would turn you into a better person. Some 170 years ago, the administrators atOberlin College, a small liberal-arts school in Ohio, grew enamored of Graham’s ideas anddecidedtofeedstudentsaccordingtohisprinciples.(Andyouthinkyourcollegefoodwasbad?)Oberlinstudentswereencouragedtoabstainfromconsumingmeat,tea,andcoffee—exceptfor“crustcoffee”madefromtoastandboiledwater.Theywerediscouragedfromeatingbutterandpastriesandevenfromseasoningtheirfood.(Aslegendhasit,aprofessoractuallylosthisjobforbringing a pepper shaker to the dining-hall table.)Oberlin students complained so vociferouslythatthecollegewasforcedtoabandonitsdiningplan,andtheGrahamdiet(ifnothiseponymouscracker)fadedintoculinaryhistory.

MAGICCHOCOLATEFLANCAKE

CAKE

½

cupcaramelsauceortopping

½ cupplus2tablespoons(3⅛ounces)all-purposeflour⅓ cup(1ounce)cocoapowder½

teaspoonbakingsoda

⅛

teaspoonsalt

ouncesbittersweetchocolate,chopped

MagicChocolateFlanCakeWHY THIS RECIPEWORKS This unique dessert combines a layer of

fudgychocolatecakeanda layerof rich, caramel-coated flan that “magically”switchplacesastheybake.Westartedwithaneasydump-and-stircakerecipe.Thecake’sflavorwasgreat,butitwassoggyduetothemoisturefromtheflan.Cuttingsomeofthebuttermilkandsugarfromthecakebatterdidthetrick.Tohelpour flan firmup,we swapped someof the eggyolks forwhole eggs andaddedcreamcheese.Thecreamcheesealsolenttheflanatanginessthatoffsetits sweetness.Convenient store-boughtcaramelsauce topped italloff.See thesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES16

It’sworthusinggood-qualitycaramelsauce,suchasFatToadFarmGoat’sMilkCaramel.Ifyourblenderdoesn’thold2quarts,processtheflanintwobatches.Thecakeneedstochillforatleast8hoursbeforeyoucanunmoldit.

4


½

cupbuttermilk

½ cup(3½ounces)sugar

2 largeeggs


FLAN

2(14-ounce)canssweetenedcondensedmilk

2½

cupswholemilk

6 ouncescreamcheese

6largeeggsplus4largeyolks

1.FORTHECAKE:Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento350degrees. Grease 12-cup nonstick Bundt pan. Microwave caramel until easilypourable,about30seconds.Pourintopantocoatbottom.Combineflour,cocoa,bakingsoda,andsalt inbowl;setaside.Combinechocolateandbutterinlargebowlandmicrowaveat50percentpower,stirringoccasionally,untilmelted,2to4minutes.Whiskbuttermilk,sugar,eggs,andvanillaintochocolatemixtureuntil incorporated. Stir in flour mixture until just combined. Pour batter overcaramelinpan.

2.FORTHEFLAN: Process all ingredients inblenderuntil smooth, about1minute.GentlypourflanovercakebatterinBundtpanandplaceBundtpaninlarge roastingpan.Place roastingpanonoven rackandpourwarmwater intoroastingpanuntilitreacheshalfwayupsideofBundtpan.Bakeuntiltoothpickinserted in cake comes out clean and flan registers 180 degrees, 75 to 90minutes.TransferBundtpantowirerack.Letcooltoroomtemperature,about2hours, then refrigerate until set, at least 8 hours. (Remove roasting pan fromovenoncewaterhascooled.)3.PlacebottomthirdofBundtpaninbowlofhottapwaterfor1minute.Invertcompletelyflatcakeplatter,placeplatterovertopof pan, and gently turn platter and pan upside down. Slowly remove pan,allowingcarameltodrizzleovertopofcake.Serve.

MODULATETHEHEAT

Awaterbath,orbain-marie,makesforamoreeven,temperatebakingenvironment.Simplyplaceyourbakingvesselinalargervessel(weusearoastingpan)andpartiallyfillthelatterwithwater.

TRESLECHESCAKE

MILKMIXTURE

1(14-ounce)cansweetenedcondensedmilk

1(12-ounce)canevaporatedmilk

1 cupheavycream


TresLechesCakeWHYTHISRECIPEWORKS A great tres leches cake—a sponge cake

soaked with a mixture of “three milks” (heavy cream, evaporated milk, andsweetenedcondensedmilk)—shouldbemoistbutnotmushyandsweetbutnotsickeninglyso.Foranidealversion,weneededtomakeourcakesturdyenoughtohandlethemilkmixture,soweusedwhippedwholeeggsinsteadoftheusualeggwhites.Althoughsometreslechesrecipesuseequalamountsofevaporatedmilk,sweetenedcondensedmilk,andcream,wefoundthatcuttingbackonthecreamproducedathickermixturethatdidn’toversaturatethecake.

SERVES12

Thecakeisbestfrostedrightbeforeserving.

CAKE



1 teaspoonsalt

½

teaspoongroundcinnamon


1 cupwholemilk


2cups(14ounces)sugar


TOPPING

1 cupheavycream

3 tablespoonscornsyrup


1. FOR THE MILK MIXTURE: Pour condensed milk into large bowl.Microwave covered at 50 percent power, stirring every 3 to 5 minutes, untilslightlydarkenedandthickened,9to15minutes.Removefrommicrowaveandslowly whisk in evaporated milk, cream, and vanilla. Let cool to roomtemperature.

2.FORTHECAKE:Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento325degrees.Greaseandflour13by9-inchbakingdish.Whiskflour,bakingpowder,salt, and cinnamon in bowl.Heat butter andmilk in small saucepan over lowheatuntilbutterismelted;removefromheatandsetaside.

3.Usingstandmixerfittedwithwhisk,whipeggsonmediumspeeduntilfoamy,about 30 seconds. Slowly add sugar and continue to whip until fullyincorporated, 5 to 10 seconds. Increase speed tomedium-high andwhip untilmixtureisthickandglossy,5to7minutes.Reducespeedtolow,addmilk-buttermixture and vanilla, and mix until combined, about 15 seconds. Add flourmixturein3additions,mixingonmediumspeedaftereachadditionandscrapingdownbowlasneeded,untilflourisfullyincorporated,about30seconds.Usingrubberspatula,scrapebatterintoprepareddish.Bakeuntiltoothpickinsertedincentercomesoutclean,30to35minutes.Transfercaketowirerackandletcoolfor10minutes.

4.Usingskewer,pokeholesat½-inchintervalsintopofcake.Slowlypourmilkmixtureovercakeuntilcompletelyabsorbed.Letsitatroomtemperaturefor15minutes,thenrefrigerate,uncovered,for3hoursorupto24hours.

5. FOR THE TOPPING: Remove cake from refrigerator 30 minutes beforeserving. Using stand mixer fitted with whisk, whip cream, corn syrup, andvanilla on medium-low speed until foamy, about 1 minute. Increase speed tohighandwhipuntilsoftpeaksform,1 to3minutes.Spreadovercakeandcutinto3-inchsquares.Serve.

ANGELFOODCAKE

1cupplus2tablespoons(4½ounces)cakeflour

¼

teaspoonsalt


12 largeeggwhites

1½

teaspoonscreamoftartar

AngelFoodCakeWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSThekeytoangelfoodcakeisvoluminous,

stableeggwhites.Amerespeckofyolkprecludesthemfromwhippingtopeaks.We had equal successwith both cold and room-temperature eggwhites. Coldwhitesachievedthesamevolumeasroom-temperaturewhites; theyjust tookafew minutes longer. Cream of tartar offered some insurance against deflatedwhitesbecause its acidityhelped stabilize theeggwhites.Cake flourwasalsoimportant—all-purpose flour produced a chewy, gummy cake. See the sidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES10TO12

Donot use all-purpose flour in this recipe as itwill give the cake a breadliketexture. You will need a 12-cup tube pan with a removable bottom for thisrecipe.Ifyourpanhas“feet”thatriseabovethetopedgeofthepan,letthecakecool upside down; otherwise, invert the tube pan over a large metal kitchenfunnelor theneckof a sturdybottle.Cakecanbe servedplainordustedwithconfectioners’sugar.

1.Adjustovenrackto lower-middlepositionandpreheatovento325degrees.Whisk flour and salt in bowl. Process sugar in food processor until fine andpowdery,about1minute.Reservehalfofsugarinsmallbowl.Addflourmixtureto food processor with remaining sugar and process until aerated, about 1minute.

2.Usingstandmixerfittedwithwhisk,whipeggwhitesandcreamoftartaronmedium-lowspeeduntilfoamy,about1minute.Increasespeedtomedium-high.Slowlyaddreservedsugarandwhipuntilsoftpeaksform,about6minutes.Addvanillaandmixuntilincorporated.

3. Sift flour-sugarmixture over eggwhites in 3 additions, folding gentlywithrubberspatulaaftereachadditionuntilincorporated.Scrapemixtureinto12-cupungreasedtubepan.

4. Bake until skewer inserted into center comes out clean and cracks in cakeappeardry,40 to45minutes.Letcool, inverted, to roomtemperature,about3hours.Tounmold,runknifealonginteriorofpan.Turnoutontoplatter.Serve.

CHOCOLATE-ALMONDANGELFOODCAKEReplace½ teaspoon vanilla extract with½ teaspoon almond extract in step 2. Fold 2 ouncesfinelygratedbittersweetchocolateintobatterfollowingflourinstep3.

CAFÉAULAITANGELFOODCAKEAdd1tablespooninstantcoffeeorespressopowdertofoodprocessoralongwithflourinstep1.Replace½teaspoonvanillawith1tablespooncoffeeliqueurinstep2.

KEYSTEPSTOANGELFOODCAKE

1.GRINDSUGAR:Processgranulatedsugar infoodprocessoruntilpowdery. It’llbefine, light,andwon’tdeflateeggwhites.

2.STABILIZEEGGWHITES:Addcreamoftartartoeggwhitesatstartofwhipping.Oncewhitesbecomefoamy,addhalfofsugar—gradually.

3.SIFTFLOURINBATCHES:Gentlysiftflour-sugarmixtureoverbeateneggwhitesinadditionstoavoiddeflatingwhites.

4.COOLUPSIDEDOWN: Invertcakeuntil it iscompletelycool,about threehours. Ifyoudon’thavepanwithfeet,invertitoverneckofsturdybottle.

CHIFFONCAKE


1 teaspooncreamoftartar

1½ cups(10½ounces)sugar1⅓ cups(5⅓ounces)cakeflour


½

teaspoonsalt

¾

cupwater

ChiffonCakeWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSChiffoncakeshouldhavetheairyheightof

angelfoodcakewiththerichnessofpoundcake.Forourchiffoncakerecipe,weeliminatedtheunnecessarystepofsiftingthedryingredients.Wealsoperfectedthemethodforbeatingoureggwhites—slowlyaddingsugaroncetheeggshadbeenbeaten to soft peaks and then continuing tobeat themuntil just stiff andglossy—to avoid little pockets of cooked egg whites. See the sidebar thatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES10TO12

Separatetheeggswhenthey’recold;it’seasier.Youwillneeda16-cuptubepanwitha removablebottomfor this recipe. Ifyourpanhas“feet” that riseabovethetopedgeofthepan,letthecakecoolupsidedown;otherwise,invertthetubepanoveralargemetalkitchenfunnelortheneckofasturdybottle.

½

cupvegetableoil


1. Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 325 degrees.Using standmixer fittedwithwhisk, whip eggwhites and cream of tartar onmedium-highspeeduntilsoftpeaksform,about2minutes.Withmixerrunning,slowly add 2 tablespoons sugar and whip until just stiff and glossy, about 1minute;setaside.

2. Combine flour, remaining sugar, baking powder, and salt in large bowl.Whiskwater, oil, eggyolks, andvanilla inmediumbowluntil smooth.Whiskwet mixture into flour mixture until smooth. Whisk one-third whipped eggwhitesintobatter,thengentlyfoldinremainingwhites,1scoopatatime,untilwellcombined.Scrapemixtureinto16-cupungreasedtubepan.

3. Bake until skewer inserted into center comes out clean and cracks in cakeappear dry, 55 minutes to 1 hour, 5 minutes. Let cool, inverted, to roomtemperature,about3hours.Tounmold, turnpanrightsideupandrunflexibleknifearoundtubeandouteredge.Usetubetopullcakeoutofpanandsetitoninvertedbakingpan.Cutbottomfree.Invertcakeontoservingplateandgentlytwisttubetoremove.Serve.

ORANGECHIFFONCAKEReduce total sugar to 1¼cups.Replacewaterwith¾cuporange juiceandadd1 tablespoongratedorangezestalongwithvanilla instep2.Forglaze,whisk3 tablespoonsorange juice,2tablespoonssoftenedcreamcheese,and½ teaspoongratedorangezest inmediumbowluntilsmooth.Add1½cupsconfectioners’sugarandwhiskuntilsmooth.Pourglazeovercooledcake.Letglazesetfor15minutes.Serve.

LETMEOUTTAHERE!

Likeangel foodcake,chiffoncake isbaked inanungreasedpan.Why?Thestifflybeateneggwhites need to cling to the pan to rise. If the panwere greased, they couldn’t. Here’s how toremoveitfromthepan.

1.Whencakeiscool,turnpanrightsideupandrunflexibleknifearoundtubeandouteredge.

2.Usetubetopullcakeoutofpanandsetitoninvertedbakingpan.Cutbottomfree.

3.Invertcakeontoservingplateandgentlytwisttubetoremove.

ITALIANCREAMCAKE

CAKE

1½ cupssweetenedshreddedcoconut,toasted

1cupbuttermilk,roomtemperature


2½ cups(10ounces)cakeflour


¾

teaspoonsalt

ItalianCreamCakeWHYTHISRECIPEWORKS Although the name is a mystery (there’s

nothingItalianaboutthiscake),theappealofthissouthernspecialtyisobvious:tender yellow cake with coconut and pecans, doused in tangy cream cheesefrosting.But the recipeswe foundproducedgummycakeswithweak coconutflavor.Cakeflourmadeamoretendercrumb,andheat-activatedbakingpowderensured the cakewould rise evenly in the oven. To boost coconut flavor, weadded it twice—pulverized, toasted coconut added flavor to the cake withoutdryingitout,andcreamofcoconutampedupthefrosting.Finally,wecoatedthesidesinablanketoftoastedpecans.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES8TO10

Toast thecoconutandnuts ina350-degreeovenuntilgoldenbrown,10 to12minutes.Watchcarefullyandstiroccasionallytopreventburning.

½

teaspoonbakingsoda


4tablespoonsshortening,cutinto4pieces



2cups(8ounces)pecans,toastedandchopped

FROSTING


2¼ cups(9ounces)confectioners’sugar½

cupcreamofcoconut

½


Pinchsalt

16ouncescreamcheese,cutinto8piecesandsoftened

1.FORTHECAKE:Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento350degrees.Greasetwo9-inchroundcakepans,linewithparchmentpaper,greaseparchment, then flour pans. Process coconut in food processor until finelyground, about 1 minute. Combine coconut, buttermilk, and vanilla in 2-cupliquid measuring cup and let sit until coconut is slightly softened, about 10minutes;reserve.

2. Combine flour, baking powder, salt, and baking soda in bowl.Using standmixer fitted with paddle, beat butter, shortening, and sugar on medium-highspeeduntilpaleandfluffy,about3minutes.Addeggs,oneata time,andbeatuntil combined. Reduce speed to low and add flour mixture in 3 additions,alternating with 2 additions of reserved coconut-buttermilk mixture, scrapingdownbowlasneeded.Add¾cuppecansandgivebatterfinalstirbyhand.

3. Scrape equal amounts of batter into prepared pans andbake until toothpickinsertedincentercomesoutclean,28to32minutes.Coolcakesinpansonwirerackfor10minutes.Removecakesfrompans,discardingparchment,andcoolcompletely,about2hours.(Cooledcakescanbewrappedwithplasticwrapandstoredatroomtemperatureforupto2days.)

4.FORTHEFROSTING:Usingstandmixerfittedwithpaddle,mixbutterandsugar on low speed until combined, about 30 seconds. Increase speed tomedium-high and beat until pale and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Add cream ofcoconut,vanilla, and salt andbeatuntil smooth, about30 seconds.Addcreamcheese, one piece at a time, and beat until incorporated, about 1 minute.Refrigerateuntilreadytouse.

5.Whencakesarecooled,spread1½cupsfrostingover1cakeround.Topwithsecondcake roundandspread remaining frostingevenlyover topandsidesofcake. Press remaining pecans onto sides of cake. Serve. (Cake can berefrigeratedforupto2days.Bringtoroomtemperaturebeforeserving.)

COCONUT:TOAST,GRIND,SOAK

Tobringouttheflavoroftheshreddedcoconut,wetoastitina350-degreeovenuntilitisgoldenbrown(about10minutes).Tohelpthecoconutflavorpermeatethecake,wegrindittomealinthefoodprocessor.Buttoasted,groundcoconutishardanddry,arealprobleminsuchadeliciouslysoft,moistcake.Tomoistenandsoftenthecoconutmeal,wesoakitinbuttermilkbeforeaddingittothecakebatter.

CREAMCHEESEPOUNDCAKE


1 teaspoonsalt

4largeeggsplus2largeyolks,roomtemperature

¼

cupmilk


cups(21ounces)sugar

CreamCheesePoundCakeWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSInthisdeliciousvariationonclassicpound

cake, we added cream cheese for richness, tangy flavor, and an especiallyvelvety texture.We let the pure flavors of eggs, butter, and the cream cheesetakecenterstage,addingonlyafewteaspoonsofvanillaandamoderateamountof sugar. To achieve a tight, fine crumb and a velvety texture, we left theleaveneroutaltogetherandusedlower-proteincakeflour.Extraeggyolkskeptthe cake moist and tender. Finally, a low oven took a little longer, but itproduced a perfect golden-brown crust and a moist, tender interior. See thesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES12TO14

Ifyoudonothavecakeflouronhand,youcansubstitute⅞cupall-purposeflourand2tablespoonscornstarchforeachcupofflour.

3

24tablespoons(3sticks)unsaltedbutter,softened


1.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento300degrees.Greaseandflour12-cupnonstickBundtpan.Combine flourand salt inbowl.Whiskeggsandyolks,milk,andvanillatogetherin2-cupliquidmeasuringcup.

2.Usingstandmixerfittedwithpaddle,beatsugar,butter,andcreamcheeseonmedium-highspeeduntilpaleandfluffy,about3minutes.Reducespeedtolowand very slowly add eggmixture, mixing until incorporated (batter may lookslightly curdled). Add flour mixture in 3 additions, scraping down bowl asneeded.Givebatterfinalstirbyhand.

3.Scrapebatter intopreparedpanandgently tappanoncounter to releaseairbubbles. Bake until toothpick inserted in center comes out clean, 80 to 90minutes,rotatingpanhalfwaythroughbaking.Coolcakeinpanonwirerackfor15minutes.Removecakefrompanandcoolcompletely,about2hours.Serve.(Cakecanbestored,wrappedinplasticwrap,atroomtemperaturefor3days.)

1poundstrawberries,hulledandchopped(3cups)

1cup(7ounces)sugar


1poundrhubarb,sliced¼-inchthick

Pinchsalt

STRAWBERRY-RHUBARBCOMPOTE

MAKES4CUPS

Thecompotecanbe refrigerated forup tooneweek. It’sdeliciousdrizzledonpoundcakeoricecreamorstirredintoyogurtoroatmeal.

1.Tossstrawberrieswith½cupsugarandlemonjuiceinmediumbowl.Transferstrawberry mixture to fine-mesh strainer set over medium saucepan and letstand,stirringoccasionally,for30minutes.Donotwashbowl.

2.Returnstrawberriestobowl.Addrhubarb,remaining½cupsugar,andsalttostrawberryjuicesinpanandbringtoboilovermedium-highheat.Reduceheattomedium-lowandcook,stirringoccasionally,untilrhubarbissoftandliquidhasthickened,6to8minutes.

3. Stir strawberries into pan and remove fromheat.Transfer compote to bowlandletcooltoroomtemperature,about45minutes.Serve.

PREPARINGABUNDTPAN

To ensure a clean release, make a simple paste from 1 tablespoon melted butter and 1tablespoonflour(orcocoapowderforchocolatecakes)andapplyittopanwithpastrybrush.

COLD-OVENPOUNDCAKE


½


1 teaspoonsalt

1 cupwholemilk


Cold-OvenPoundCake WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS This thrifty pound cake, which was

designedtosaveongasbynotrequiringapreheatedoven,isanespeciallytallcakeandboastsacrispcrust.Tocreatealightcrumb,weusedleanerwholemilkinsteadoftheheavycreamcalledforinmostrecipes.Swappingoutall-purposeflour for cake flour yielded an even finer,more delicate crumb for our poundcake.Wealsousedbakingpowder,whichproducedcarbondioxidebubblesthatgaveourcake its rise.Putting thepoundcake intoacoldoven,as is tradition,gavethecarbondioxidemoretimetoproducegreaterrise.Seethesidebarsthatfollowtherecipe.

SERVES12

You’llneeda16-cuptubepanforthisrecipe;ifnotusinganonstickpan,makesure to thoroughlygreasea traditionalpan. In step2,don’tworry if thebatterlooksslightlyseparated.

20 tablespoons(2½sticks)unsaltedbutter,softened

2½ cups(17½ounces)sugar

6 largeeggs

1.Adjustovenracktolower-middleposition.Greaseandflour16-cuptubepan.Combine flour, baking powder, and salt in bowl. Whisk milk and vanilla inmeasuringcup.

2.Usingstandmixerfittedwithpaddle,beatbutterandsugaronmedium-highspeeduntil lightandfluffy,about2minutes.Beat ineggs,oneata time,untilcombined.Reducespeedtolowandaddflourmixturein3additions,alternatingwithmilkmixture in 2 additions, scrapingdownbowl as needed.Mixon lowuntilsmooth,about30seconds.Givebatterfinalstirbyhand.

3.Pourbatterintopreparedpanandsmoothtop.Placecakeincoldoven.Adjustoven temperature to 325 degrees and bake, without opening oven door, untilcakeisgoldenbrownandskewer insertedincentercomesoutclean,1hour,5minutesto1hour,20minutes.

4.Letcakecoolinpanonwirerackfor15minutes.Removecakefrompanandletcoolcompletelyonrackabout2hours.Serve. (Cakecanbestoredat roomtemperatureforupto2days.)

ACOLDOVENREALLYMAKESADIFFERENCE

Curiosity ledustotrybakingourCold-OvenPoundCakeinapreheatedoven.Thecakebakedmore quickly (no surprise), but it was squat and lacked the thick crust we’d come to expect.Evidently, thehotovenstopped thesmallamountof leavener inour recipebefore itsworkwasdone.AnditturnsoutthecrustonourCold-OvenPoundCakeisformedbymoistureintheovenreactingwithstarchinthebatter.Ahotovenisdrierthanacoldoven(heatevaporatesmoisture),sotherewasn’tenoughmoistureinthepreheatedoventoformanice,thickcrust.

SQUATCAKEApreheatedovenproducesasquat,crustlesscakewiththisrecipe.

PERFECTCAKEIncontrast,acoldovenproducesahighriseandathickcrust.

WHYPAYFORPREHEATING?

Gas ovens became widely available in the United States during the first decades of the 20thcentury.Becausetheseovensweremoreexpensivethantheirwood-andcoal-firedcounterparts,gas companies had to get creative inmarketing them.One popular tacticwas to develop andpromoterecipesstartedinacoldoven,withthehookthatconsumerscouldsavemoneyintheirgasovensbynotpayingfor“needless”preheating.Hence:Cold-ovenpoundcake.

CHOCOLATECREAMCUPCAKES

CUPCAKES


½

teaspoonbakingsoda

¼

teaspoonsalt

½

cupboilingwater

ChocolateCreamCupcakesWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSPackagedchocolate creamcupcakesare a

childhood treat. But try one today and you’re met with wan chocolate cakeencasing salty whipped vegetable shortening. We knew we could do better.Blooming cocoa in boiling water and adding chocolate chips and espressopowdergaveourcupcakesplentyofchocolatedepth.Combiningmarshmallowcrèmeandtherightamountofgelatingaveustheperfectcreamyfilling.Tofillourcupcakeswithoutapastrybag,weusedaparingknifetocutinvertedconesfromthetopsofthecupcakes,addedthefrosting,andpluggedtheholes.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

MAKES12CUPCAKES

Toensureanappropriatelythickfilling,besuretousemarshmallowcrème(suchas Fluff or Kraft Jet-Puffed Creme), notmarshmallow sauce. For an accuratemeasurementofboilingwater,bringafullkettleofwatertoaboil,thenmeasureoutthedesiredamount.

⅓ cup(1ounce)cocoa⅓ cup(2ounces)semisweetchocolatechips

1 tablespooninstantespressopowder

¾ cup(5¼ounces)sugar½

cupsourcream

½

cupvegetableoil

2 largeeggs


FILLING

¾

teaspoonunflavoredgelatin

3 tablespoonswater

4tablespoons(½stick)unsaltedbutter,softened


Pinchsalt

1¼ cupsmarshmallowcrème

GLAZE

½

cupsemisweetchocolatechips


1.FORTHECUPCAKES:Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento 325 degrees. Spray 12-cup muffin tin with vegetable oil spray and flour.Combine flour, baking soda, and salt in bowl.Whiskwater, cocoa, chocolatechips,andespressopowderinlargebowluntilsmooth.Addsugar,sourcream,oil, eggs, and vanilla and mix until combined. Whisk in flour mixture untilincorporated. Divide batter evenly among muffin cups. Bake until toothpickinsertedincentercomesoutwithfewdrycrumbsattached,18to22minutes.Letcupcakescool in tinonwire rack for10minutes, then turnoutontowire rackandletcoolcompletely.

2.FORTHEFILLING:Sprinklegelatinoverwater in largebowland let situntil gelatin softens, about 5 minutes. Microwave until mixture is bubblingaroundedgesandgelatindissolves,about30seconds.Stirinbutter,vanilla,andsaltuntilcombined.Letmixturecooluntiljustwarmtotouch,about5minutes,thenwhisk inmarshmallowcrèmeuntil smooth; refrigerate until set, about 30minutes.Transfer⅓ cupmarshmallowmixture topastrybag fittedwith smallplaintip;reserveremainingmixtureforfillingcupcakes.

3.FORTHEGLAZE:Microwavechocolateandbutterinsmallbowl,stirringoccasionally, until smooth, about 30 seconds. Let glaze cool to roomtemperature,about10minutes.

4. Insert tipofparingknifeat45-degreeangleandabout¼ inchfromedgeofcupcake,cutcone from topofeachcupcake,andcutoffallbut top¼ inchofcone,leavingcirculardiskofcake.Fillcupcakeswith1tablespoonfillingeach.Replacetops,frostwith2teaspoonscooledglaze,andletsit10minutes.Usingpastry bag, pipe curlicues across glazed cupcakes. Serve. (Cupcakes can bestoredatroomtemperatureforupto2days.)

FILLINGTHECUPCAKES

1. Inserttipofparingknifeat45-degreeangleabout¼inchfromedgeofcupcake.Cutoutandremovecakecone.Cutoffallbuttop¼inchofcone,leavingcirculardiskofcake.

2. Using spoon, fill each cupcake with marshmallowmixture and then top with reserved cake“plug.”Theglazeandthecurlicueswillhideyourhandiwork.

HOTFUDGEPUDDINGCAKE

1cup(7ounces)sugar




¼

teaspoonsalt

HotFudgePuddingCakeWHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Most hot fudge pudding cakes end up

looking rich and fudgy but have very little chocolate flavor. For chocolatepudding cake that tasted as good as it looked,we folded semisweet chocolatechipsintothebatter,whichaddedanotherlayerofchocolateflavorandensuredplenty of gooey pockets in the baked cake.Vegetable oil,whichmost recipescall for,was flavorless, andwe found substitutingmeltedbutter improvedourpuddingcake’s flavor.UsingDutch-processedcocoa,which is lessacidic thannatural cocoa powder, produced a richer chocolate taste. See the sidebar thatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES6TO8

Foranaccuratemeasurementofboilingwater,bringa fullkettleofwater toaboil, then measure out the desired amount. Do not overbake this cake or thepudding saucewill burn in thepan and the cakewill bedry, not fudgy.Storeleftovers, covered with plastic wrap, in the refrigerator. Reheat individualservingsinamicrowaveonhighpoweruntilhot(aboutoneminute).

½ cupmilk


1 largeeggyolk


½

cupsemisweetchocolatechips

1 cupboilingwater

Vanillaicecreamorwhippedcream

1.Adjustovenrack tomiddlepositionandheatoven to350degrees.Spray8-inchsquarebakingpanwithvegetableoilspray.Whisk½cupsugarwith¼cupcocoainsmallbowl.

2.Whiskflour,remaining½cupsugar,remaining¼cupcocoa,bakingpowder,andsaltinlargebowl.Whiskmilk,butter,eggyolk,andvanillainmediumbowluntil smooth.Stirmilkmixture into flourmixtureuntil just combined.Fold inchocolatechips(batterwillbestiff).

3.Usingrubberspatula,scrapebatterintopreparedpanandspreadintocorners.Sprinklereservedcocoamixtureevenlyovertop.Gentlypourboilingwaterovercocoa.Donotstir.

4.Bakeuntiltopofcakelookscracked,sauceisbubbling,andtoothpickinsertedinto cakey area comes outwithmoist crumbs attached, about 25minutes. Letcoolinpanonwirerackforatleast10minutes.Toserve,scoopwarmcakeintoindividualservingbowlsandtopwithvanillaicecreamorwhippedcream.

BABYPUDDINGCAKESPutafancyspinonthishomeyrecipebybakingupindividualpuddingcakes.

Sprayeight6-ounceovenprooframekinsorcoffeecupswithvegetableoilspray.Filleachwith2 tablespoonsbatter.Topeachwith1½ tablespoonscocoamixture, followedby2 tablespoonsboilingwater.Arrangecupsonrimmedbakingsheetandbakeuntiltopsarejustcracked,20to25minutes.

ISITDONEYET?

Thishighlyunconventionalcakebreaksmostoftheusualrules,includinghowtojudgewhenit’sreadytocomeoutoftheoven.

1.Whenthetopiscrackledlikeabrownieandthesauceisbubblingupfromthebottom,it’stimetostart testing fordoneness.For themostaccurate test, insert the toothpickclose to theedge,where the cake is firmest. (Don’t insert the toothpick in the center, where the cake should begooey.)

2.Thetoothpickshouldhavelarge,moistcrumbs—butnogooeybatter—attached.Checkatleasttwospotstobecertainthatwhat’sstickingtothetoothpickisn’tjustameltedchocolatechip.

LEMONPUDDINGCAKE

¼ cup(1¼ounces)all-purposeflour

2 teaspoonscornstarch



2tablespoonsgratedzestand½cupjuicefrom4lemons


1¼ cupswholemilk,roomtemperature

2 quartsboilingwater

LemonPuddingCakeWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSForthebrightestlemonflavorinourlemon

puddingcake,weusedafullhalf-cupoflemonjuice.Tocoaxevenmoreflavorfromthelemons,wecreamedabitofgratedzestwiththebutterandsugar.Abitof cornstarch gently firmed the pudding layer without muddying the lemonflavor.Topreventthetoplayerofthecakefromdeflating,webeatsugarintotheeggwhites.Thisstabilizedthewhitesandresultedinahigh,golden,andfluffycake.Forthecreamiesttexture,itwasimportanttobakethecakeinawaterbath.Thehotwaterprotectedthepuddingfromcookingtooquickly.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES8

Thisdessertisbestservedwarmoratroomtemperaturethesamedayitismade.

1.Adjustovenracktolowestpositionandheatovento325degrees.Grease8-inchsquarebakingdish.Whiskflourandcornstarchinbowl.Usingstandmixerfitted with paddle, beat ½ cup sugar, butter, and lemon zest onmedium-highspeeduntillightandfluffy,about2minutes.Beatineggyolks,1atatime,untilincorporated. Reduce speed to medium-low. Add flour mixture andmix untilincorporated.Slowlyaddmilkandlemonjuice,mixinguntiljustcombined.

2. Using clean bowl and whisk attachment, beat egg whites on medium-highspeeduntil soft peaks form, about 2minutes.Withmixer running, slowly addremaining¾cupsugaruntilwhitesarefirmandglossy,about1minute.Whiskone-thirdofwhitesintobatter,thengentlyfoldinremainingwhites,1scoopatatime,untilwellcombined.

3.Placecleandishtowelinbottomofroastingpanandarrangepreparedbakingdishontowel.Spoonbatterintoprepareddish.Carefullyplacepanonovenrackandpourboilingwater intopanuntilwater comeshalfwayup sidesofbakingdish.Bakeuntilsurfaceisgoldenbrownandedgesareset(centershouldjiggleslightlywhengently shaken), about 1 hour.Transfer dish towire rack and letcool for at least 1 hour. To serve, scoop warm cake into individual servingbowls.

USINGAWATERBATH

Thewaterlowersthetemperaturesurroundingthebakingdishforgentle,evencooking.

1.Topreventbakingdishfromsliding,linebottomofroastingpanwithcleandishtowel.

2.Set roastingpanonoven rackandcarefullypourboilingwater intopan,halfwayupsidesofbakingdish.

3. After baking, promptly remove baking dish from water. Let water cool beforemoving waterbath.

LEMONICEBOXCHEESECAKE

CRUST

10lemonsandwichcookies,brokenintopieces(about1¼cups)


1 teaspoongratedlemonzest

LemonIceboxCheesecakeWHYTHISRECIPEWORKS Inabakedcheesecake, tart lemon juice is

mellowedbytheheatoftheoven.Forouriceboxversionoflemoncheesecake,weneeded to dial back the lemon juice to compensate for the lack of baking.Lemon curd, a rich, tangy spread made from eggs, butter, cream, sugar, andlemonjuice,addedcrisplemonflavorwithouttheundesirablechewinessofzestortheprocessedflavoroflemonextract.Usinglemoncookiesinsteadofgrahamcrackersforthecrustcreatedanadditionallayeroflemonflavor.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES12TO16

Letthedissolvedgelatinmixturecooldownforafewminutes,orthegelatinwillseize when combined with the filling.We tested our cheesecake with severalstorebrandsoflemonsandwichcookies;allworkedwell.

CURD

¼ cup(1¾ounces)sugar

1largeeggplus1largeyolk

Pinchsalt

2 tablespoonslemonjuice



FILLING

2¾


¼ cuplemonjuice(2lemons)1½ poundscreamcheese,cutinto1-inchpiecesandsoftened¾ cup(5¼ounces)sugar

Pinchsalt

1¼ cupsheavycream,roomtemperature

1.FORTHECRUST:Adjust oven rack tomiddle position andheat oven to350 degrees. Process cookies in food processor until finely ground, about 30seconds.Addbutter andzest andpulseuntil combined, about10pulses.Pressmixture intobottomof9-inch springformpan.Bakeuntil lightlybrownedandset,about10minutes.Letcoolcompletelyonwirerack,atleast30minutes.

2.FORTHECURD:While crust is cooling,whisk sugar, egg andyolk, andsalt together in small saucepan. Add lemon juice and cook overmedium-lowheat, stirringconstantly,until thickandpuddinglike,about3minutes.Removefrom heat and stir in butter and cream. Press through fine-mesh strainer intosmallbowlandrefrigeratelemoncurduntilneeded.

3.FORTHEFILLING:Sprinklegelatinoverlemonjuiceinsmallbowlandletstanduntilgelatinsoftens,about5minutes.Microwaveuntilmixtureisbubblingaroundedgesandgelatindissolves,about30seconds.Setaside.

4.Using standmixer fittedwith paddle beat cream cheese, sugar, and salt onmediumspeeduntilsmoothandcreamy,scrapingdownsidesofbowlasneeded,about 2 minutes. Slowly add cream and beat until light and fluffy, about 2minutes.Addgelatinmixtureand¼cupcurd, increasespeed tomedium-high,andbeatuntilsmoothandairy,about3minutes.

5. Pour filling into cooled crust and smooth top. Pour thin lines of remainingcurd on top of cake and lightly drag paring knife or skewer perpendicularlythroughlinestocreatemarbledappearance.Refrigerateuntilset,atleast6hours.Removesidesofpan.Serve.(Cheesecakecanberefrigeratedforupto3days.)

SWIRLSHOWSTOPPER

Making a swirl with the lemon curd on top of the cheesecake is absurdly easy and awfullyimpressive.

1.Usemeasuringcuptopourcurdin4thinlinesontopofcheesecake.

2.Dragparingknifeorskewerperpendicularlythroughlinestocreatemarbleddesign.

MELTINGMOMENTS

½

cupRiceKrispiescereal




1¼ cups(5ounces)cakeflour¼ cup(1¼ounces)cornstarch⅛

teaspoonsalt

MeltingMomentsWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSThesedelicatebuttercookiesliterallymelt

in your mouth, thanks to the generous amount of cornstarch in the dough.Unfortunately, the cornstarch leaves behind a chalky residue with each bite.After settling on the maximum amount of cornstarch we could use withoutdetection, we scoured supermarket shelves in search of other low-protein dryingredients to replace the remainder.We replaced all-purpose flourwith cakeflourandchoseconfectioners’sugarovergranulated,butwestillneededmorebulk.Thesolution?RiceKrispies!Thegroundcerealaddedthevolumewewerelooking for without toughening the crumb. See the sidebar that follows therecipe.

MAKESABOUT6DOZENCOOKIES

Ifthedoughgetstoosofttoslice,returnittotherefrigeratortofirmup.

⅔ cup(2⅔ounces)confectioners’sugar

1. Process Rice Krispies in blender until finely ground, about 30 seconds.Combine 4 tablespoons butter and cream in large bowl and microwave untilbutterismelted,about30seconds.WhiskinprocessedRiceKrispiesandvanillauntilcombined.Letcoolslightly,5to7minutes.

2. Combine flour, cornstarch, and salt inmedium bowl; reserve.Whisk sugarinto cooled butter mixture until incorporated. Add remaining 12 tablespoonsbutter,whiskinguntilsmooth.Stirinflourmixtureuntilcombined.

3.Workingwithhalf ofdoughat a time,dollopdough into8-inch stripdowncenterof14by12-inchsheetofparchmentpaper.Fold1longsideofparchmentover dough. Using ruler, press dough into tight 1-inch-wide log. Repeat withremainingdoughandanothersheetofparchment.Refrigeratedoughuntilfirm,about 1 hour. (Dough can bewrapped in plasticwrap and aluminum foil andfrozen for up to 1 month.) 4. Adjust oven racks to upper-middle and lower-middle positions and heat oven to 300 degrees. Line 2 baking sheets withparchment. Cut dough into ¼-inch slices and place 1 inch apart on preparedbaking sheets. Bake until set but not brown, 18 to 22minutes, switching androtatingbaking sheets halfway throughbaking.Let cool completelyon sheets,about15minutes.Repeatwithremainingdough.Serve.(Cookiescanbestoredatroomtemperatureforupto2days.)

CRESCENTCOOKIESAfterstep2,transferdoughtopastrybagfittedwith½-inchstartip.Pipe1½-inch-longcrescentsontopreparedbakingsheets.Refrigeratedoughuntilfirm,about30minutes.Bakeasdirected.

JAMTHUMBPRINTCOOKIES

Afterstep2,transferdoughtopastrybagfittedwith½-inchplaintip.Pipe1-inch-wideand½-inch-high dough rounds onto prepared baking sheets. Using back of¼-teaspoonmeasuring spoondippedinwater,makeindentationincenterofeachround.Refrigeratedoughuntilfirm,about30minutes.Bakeuntilset,18to20minutes,switchingandrotatingsheetshalfwaythroughbaking.Filleachdimplewith½teaspoonjamandbakefor5minutes.

ROUNDSPRITZCOOKIES

Afterstep2,transferdoughtopastrybagfittedwith½-inchstartip.Pipe1-inch-wideand½-inch-highdoughroundsontopreparedbakingsheets.Refrigeratedoughuntilfirm,about30minutes.Bakeasdirected.

HANDLINGSOFTDOUGH

Thehighproportionofbuttertoflourmakesthedoughforthesecookiesverysoftandchallengingtohandle.Withthistechnique,youcaneasilyrollitintoalog.

1.Dollophalfofdoughinstripdowncenterofsheetofparchment.

2.Pullingparchmenttaut,userulertopressdoughintotightlog

SLICE-AND-BAKECOOKIES

⅓ cup(2⅓ounces)granulatedsugar


½

teaspoonsalt

12tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,cutintopiecesandsoftened


1 largeeggyolk


Slice-and-BakeCookiesWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSWesetouttocreateaslice-and-bakecookie

recipethatwouldcombinebothcrispnessandrichbutterandvanillaflavor—ineffect, shortbread shaped into a convenient slice-and-bake log. Using bothgranulated sugar and light brown sugar gave the cookies a richness andcomplexitythattastersliked.Weusedthefoodprocessortocombineourrecipeingredientsquicklywithoutwhippingintoomuchair—ourcookieshadthefine,shortbreadliketexturewewereafter.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

MAKESABOUT40COOKIES

Besurethatthecookiedoughiswellchilledandfirmsothatitcanbeuniformlysliced.

1. Process granulated sugar, brown sugar, and salt in food processor until nolumpsofbrownsugar remain, about30 seconds.Addbutter,vanilla, andyolkandprocessuntil smoothandcreamy,about20seconds.Scrapedownsidesofbowl,addflour,andpulseuntildoughforms,about15seconds.

2.Turnoutdoughonto lightly flouredcounterandroll into10-inch log.Wraptightlywith plasticwrap and refrigerate until firm, at least 2 hours or up to 3days. (Doughcanbewrapped in foil and frozen forup to1month.)3.Adjustoven racks to upper-middle and lower-middle positions and heat oven to 350degrees.Line2bakingsheetswithparchmentpaper.Slicechilleddoughinto¼-inchroundsandplace1inchapartonpreparedbakingsheets.Bakeuntiledgesarejustgolden,about15minutes,switchingandrotatingbakingsheetshalfwaythroughbaking.Letcool10minutesonsheets,thentransfertowirerackandletcool completely. Repeat with remaining dough. (Cookies can be stored inairtightcontaineratroomtemperatureforupto1week.)

COCONUT-LIMECOOKIESIn step 1, add 2 cups sweetened shredded coconut and 2 teaspoons grated lime zest to foodprocessoralongwithsugarsandsalt.

WALNUT-BROWNSUGARCOOKIES

Instep1,add2more tablespoonsbrownsugarand1cupchoppedwalnuts to foodprocessoralongwithsugarsandsalt.

ORANGE-POPPYSEEDCOOKIES

Instep1,add¼cuppoppyseedsand1tablespoongratedorangezesttofoodprocessoralongwithsugarsandsalt.

GLAZEME

WelovethesimplicityofourSlice-and-BakeCookies,butaconfectioners’sugarglazeisaneasyway todress themup. If theglaze is too thick tospread, thin itwith1 tablespoonwater.Eachglazemakesenoughfor1recipeSlice-and-BakeCookies.

GINGER-LIMEGLAZE

Whisk1tablespoonsoftenedcreamcheese,1teaspoongroundginger,and2tablespoonslimejuiceinmediumbowluntilcombined.Whiskin1½cupsconfectioners’sugaruntilsmooth.

MALTEDMILKGLAZE

Whisk1tablespoonsoftenedcreamcheese,1tablespoonmaltedmilkpowder,1teaspoonvanillaextract,and2tablespoonsmilkinmediumbowluntilcombined.Whiskin1½cupsconfectioners’sugaruntilsmooth.

CAPPUCCINOGLAZE

Whisk 1 tablespoon softened cream cheese, 1 tablespoon instant espresso powder, and 2tablespoonsmilk inmedium bowl until combined.Whisk in 1½ cups confectioners’ sugar untilsmooth.

PEANUTBUTTERANDJELLYGLAZE

Whisk1tablespooncreamypeanutbutter,2tablespoonsstrawberryjelly,and1tablespoonwaterinmediumbowluntilcombined.Whiskin1½cupsconfectioners’sugaruntilsmooth.

FAIRYGINGERBREAD

1½

teaspoonsgroundginger

¾ cupplus2tablespoons(4⅜ounces)all-purposeflour½

teaspoonbakingsoda

¼

teaspoonsalt


tablespoons(4ounces)packedlightbrownsugar

FairyGingerbreadWHY THIS RECIPEWORKS Original recipes for fairy gingerbread, a

cookiepopularinthe19thcentury,meltedinourmouthsbutwerealsoseverelylacking in flavor. A bit of vanilla extract and salt helped boost the flavor.Doubling the ginger added a much-needed kick, but without any competingflavorsitwasoverwhelming.Wecutbackalittleandtoastedthegroundgingertobringoutitsnaturalflavor.Gratingfreshgingerstraightintothebatteraddedevenmoreintensegingerflavor.Switchingfrombreadflourtoall-purposeflourmade thebatter slightlyeasier tospread.A littlebakingsodahelped retain thecookies’airycrispness.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

MAKES5DOZENCOOKIES

Use cookie or baking sheets that measure at least 15 by 12 inches. Don’t bedisconcertedbythescantamountofbatter:Youreallyaregoingtospreaditverythin.Use the edges of the parchment paper as your guide, covering the entiresurface thinly and evenly. For easier grating, freeze a 2-inch piece of peeledgingerfor30minutes,thenusearasp-stylegrater.

9

4 teaspoonsgratedfreshginger

¾


¼ cupwholemilk,roomtemperature

1.Adjustovenrackstoupper-middleandlower-middlepositionsandheatovento 325 degrees. Spray 2 rimless baking sheets (or inverted rimmed bakingsheets) with vegetable oil spray and cover each with 15 by 12-inch sheetparchment paper. Heat ground ginger in small skillet over medium heat untilfragrant,about1minute.Combineflour,toastedginger,bakingsoda,andsaltinmediumbowl.

2.Usingstandmixerfittedwithpaddle,beatbutterandsugaronmedium-highspeeduntil lightandfluffy,about2minutes.Addfreshgingerandvanillaandmix until incorporated. Reduce speed to low and add flour mixture in 3additions,alternatingwithmilkin2additions;scrapedownbowlasneeded.

3.Evenlyspread¾cupbattertocoverparchmentoneachpreparedsheet(batterwillbevery thin).Bakeuntildeepgoldenbrown,16 to20minutes, switchingand rotatingbaking sheetshalfway throughbaking. Immediately scorecookiesinto3by2-inchrectangles.Letcoolcompletely,about20minutes.Usingtipofparing knife, separate cookies along score marks. (Cookies can be stored inairtightcontaineratroomtemperaturefor3days.)

MAKINGFAIRYGINGERBREAD

WhilemakingseveraldozenbatchesofFairyGingerbread,wehadtimetoperfectourtechnique.Thecookiesaremadewithanunusualmethodwe’dneverencounteredbefore.Here’show:

1.Toformcookiesofrequisitethinness,usesmalloffsetspatulatospreadbattertoedgesof15by12-inchsheetofparchmentpaper.

2.Immediatelyafterremovingcookiesfromoven,usechef’sknifeorpizzawheeltoscore3by2-inchrectangles.Workquicklytopreventbreaking.

3.Oncecookiesarecool,traceoverscoredlineswithparingknifeandgentlybreakcookiesapartalonglines.

JOEFROGGERS

⅓ cupdarkrum(suchasMyers’s)

1 tablespoonwater

1½

teaspoonssalt


¾

teaspoongroundginger

½


JoeFroggersWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSJoefroggers,fromarecipethatdatesback

morethan200years,areincrediblymoist,spicy,slightlysaltycookies,foundinbakeries along the North Shore ofMassachusetts.We wanted to develop ourownrecipe.Dissolvingsaltintoourrecipe’srumandwatergavethecookieitsdistinctive salty flavor.Ginger, allspice, nutmeg, and cloves contributedwarmspiceflavor.Manyrecipeswefoundinourresearchcalledforlard,butwefoundthatusingbuttermadeforamoreflavorfulcookie.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

MAKES2DOZENCOOKIES

Placeonlysixcookiesoneachbakingsheet—theywillspread.Ifyoudon’towna3½-inchcookiecutter,useadrinkingglass.Usemild(notrobustorblackstrap)molasses.Makesuretochillthedoughforafull8hoursoritwillbetoohardtorollout.

¼


⅛

teaspoongroundcloves

1 cupmolasses


8tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,softenedbutstillcool

1cup(7ounces)sugar

1. Stir rum, water, and salt in small bowl until salt dissolves. Whisk flour,ginger,allspice,nutmeg,andclovesinmediumbowl.Stirmolassesandbakingsoda in liquid measuring cup (mixture will begin to bubble) and let sit untildoubledinvolume,about15minutes.

2.Usingstandmixerfittedwithpaddle,beatbutterandsugaronmedium-highspeeduntilfluffy,about2minutes.Reducespeedtomedium-lowandgraduallybeat inrummixture.Addflourmixturein3additions,beatingonmedium-lowuntiljustincorporated,alternatingwithmolassesmixturein2additions,scrapingdown sides of bowl as needed. Give dough final stir by hand (doughwill beextremely sticky). Cover bowl containing dough with plastic wrap andrefrigerateuntilstiff,atleast8hoursorupto3days.

3.Adjustovenrackstoupper-middleandlower-middlepositionsandheatovento375degrees.Line2bakingsheetswithparchmentpaper.Workingwithhalfofdoughatatimeonheavilyflouredcounter,rolloutto¼-inchthickness.Using3½-inch cookie cutter, cut out 12 cookies. Transfer 6 cookies to each bakingsheet,spacingcookiesabout1½inchesapart.Bakeuntilcookiesaresetandjustbeginning to crack, about 8 minutes, switching and rotating baking sheetshalfway through baking time. Let cookies cool on sheets on wire rack 10minutes,thentransfercookiestoracktocoolcompletely.Repeatwithremainingdough.(Cookiesmaybestoredinairtightcontainerforupto1week.)

SALTYHISTORY

Joe froggers date back more than 200 years to Black Joe’s Tavern, located in Marblehead,Massachusetts,a seaside townnorthofBoston.A freedslaveandRevolutionaryWarveteran,JosephBrown(knownasOldBlackJoe),andhiswife,Lucretia(affectionatelyknownasAuntieCresse), opened the tavern in a part of Marblehead called Gingerbread Hill. Besides servingdrinks (mostly rum), Joe and Auntie Cresse baked cookies: large, moist molasses and rumcookies made salty by the addition of Marblehead seawater. These cookies were popularsustenanceon long fishingvoyages,as theyhadnodairy tospoiland thecombinationof rum,molasses,andseawaterkeptthemchewyforweeks.

AccordingtoSamuelRoadsJr.’sHistoryandTraditionsofMarblehead,publishedin1879,thefunnynameforthesecookiesreferredtothelilypads(similar insizeandshapetothecookies)and largecroaking frogs thatwould fill thepondbehindJoe’s tavern.ThusthecookiesbecameknownasJoefroggers.

BLACKANDWHITECOOKIES

COOKIES

1¾ cups(8¾ounces)all-purposeflour½


¼

teaspoonbakingsoda

⅛

teaspoonsalt


BlackandWhiteCookiesWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSThesecakeycookiesareadeli favorite in

NewYork,butrarelydotheyliveuptothehype.Wewantedtoimproveuponthe classic chocolate-vanilla combination. To get the “cookie” just right, wemadeseveralsmallbuthigh-impactadjustments.Wedialedbacktheamountofbakingsodaandbakingpowdertogetridofunwantedairbubbles,addedmorevanillaextracttoheightentheflavor,andusedjustenoughsourcreamtomakethe cookies tender but not sticky.Corn syrupmade the glaze thick and shiny,whilemilkmade it creamy and spreadable. Cocoa powder kept the chocolateglazeflavorfulandsimple.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

MAKES12COOKIES

Twelvecookiesdoesn’tsoundlikemuch,butthesecookiesarehuge.You’llgetneater cookies if you spread on the vanilla glaze first. This recipe provides alittleextraglaze,justincase.


1 largeegg


⅓

cupsourcream

GLAZE

5cups(20ounces)confectioners’sugar,sifted


2 tablespoonscornsyrup


½

teaspoonsalt

3 tablespoonsDutch-processedcocoapowder,sifted

1.FORTHECOOKIES:Adjustovenrackstoupper-middleandlower-middlepositions and heat oven to 350 degrees. Line 2 baking sheetswith parchmentpaper.Combineflour,bakingpowder,bakingsoda,andsaltinbowl.

2.Usingstandmixerfittedwithpaddle,beatbutterandsugaronmedium-highspeeduntilpaleandfluffy,about2minutes.Addeggandvanillaandbeatuntilcombined.Reducespeedtolowandaddflourmixturein3additions,alternatingwith2additionsofsourcream,scrapingdownbowlasneeded.Givedoughfinalstirbyhand.

3. Using greased ¼-cup measure, drop cookie dough 3 inches apart ontopreparedbakingsheets.Bakeuntiledgesarelightlybrowned,15to18minutes,switchingandrotatingsheetshalfwaythroughbaking.Letcookiescoolonsheetsfor5minutes,thentransfertowireracktocoolcompletely,about1hour.

4.FORTHEGLAZE:Whisk sugar, 6 tablespoonsmilk, corn syrup, vanilla,and salt together in bowl until smooth. Transfer 1 cup glaze to small bowl;reserve. Whisk cocoa and remaining 1 tablespoon milk into remaining glazeuntilcombined.

5.Workingwith1cookieatatime,spread1tablespoonvanillaglazeoverhalfof undersideof cookie.Refrigerate until glaze is set, about 15minutes.Coverother half of cookieswith 1 tablespoon chocolate glaze and let cookies sit atroom temperature until glaze is firm, at least 1 hour. Serve. (Cookies can bestoredatroomtemperatureforupto2days.)

GLAZINGBLACKANDWHITECOOKIES

1. Using a butter knife or offset mini spatula, glaze half of the underside of each cookie withvanillaglaze.Chillthecookiesintherefrigeratorfor15minutessotheglazecanstarttoharden.

2.Glazetheotherhalfofeachcookiewithchocolateglaze,andletthecookiessituntiltheglazesets,aboutonehour.

WHOOPIEPIES

CAKES


½ cup(1½ounces)Dutch-processedcocoapowder


½

teaspoonsalt



WhoopiePies WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS We wanted a light, airy cake for our

whoopiepies,soweusedthecreamingmixingmethod,blendingthebutterandsugarwithamixeruntil fluffyandnearlywhite incolor.Wealsoused lotsofDutch-processed cocoa powder and vanilla in our recipe for full flavor and adeep, dark-colored crumb. And for a cleaner, fuller flavor, we replaced theshortening (or lard) found in most recipes with butter. See the sidebar thatfollowstherecipe.

MAKES6PIES

Don’t be tempted to bake all the cakes on one baking sheet; the batter needsroomtospreadintheoven.

1largeegg,roomtemperature


1 cupbuttermilk

FILLING


1¼ cups(5ounces)confectioners’sugar1½

teaspoonsvanillaextract

⅛

teaspoonsalt

2½ cupsmarshmallowcrème

1. FORTHECAKES: Adjust oven racks to upper-middle and lower-middlepositions and heat oven to 350 degrees. Line 2 baking sheetswith parchmentpaper.Whiskflour,cocoapowder,bakingsoda,andsaltinmediumbowl.

2.Usingstandmixerfittedwithpaddle,beatbutterandsugaronmedium-highspeed until fluffy, about 4 minutes. Beat in egg until incorporated, scrapingdownsidesofbowlasnecessary,thenbeatinvanilla.Reducespeedtolowandbeat in flourmixture in3 additions, alternatingwithbuttermilk in2 additions.Givebatterfinalstirbyhand.

3. Using⅓-cup measure, scoop 6 mounds of batter onto each baking sheet,spacing mounds about 3 inches apart. Bake until cakes spring back whenpressed,15to18minutes,switchingandrotatingbakingsheetshalfwaythroughbaking.Letcoolcompletelyonbakingsheets,atleast1hour.

4.FORTHEFILLING:Usingstandmixerfittedwithpaddle,beatbutterandsugar onmedium speeduntil fluffy, about 2minutes.Beat in vanilla and salt.Beat in marshmallow crème until incorporated, about 2 minutes. Refrigeratefilling until slightly firm, about 30 minutes. (Bowl can be wrapped andrefrigeratedforupto2days.)5.Dollop⅓cupfillingoncenterofflatsideof6cakes. Top with flat side of remaining 6 cakes and gently press until fillingspreads to edge of cake. Serve. (Whoopie pies can be refrigerated for up to 3days.)

WHAT’SUP,WHOOPIEPIE?

Where did whoopie pies originate? BothMaine and Pennsylvania—the Pennsylvania Dutch ofLancasterCounty, tobespecific—claimwhoopiepiesastheirown.Maine’searliestclaimdatesback to 1925, when Labadie’s Bakery in Lewiston first sold whoopie pies to the public. Someresearch showed that the Berwick Cake Company began manufacturing Whoopie! Pies (theexclamationpointwaspartof thename) in1927.Thesesourcesclaim thatwhoopiepieswerenamed after the musical Whoopie; Whoopie had its debut in Boston in 1927. In addition,MarshmallowFluff,akey ingredient inmanywhoopiepie recipes,hadbeen invented innearbyLynnsevenyearsearlier.

What about Pennsylvania’s claim on whoopie pies? We found an article in a copy of theGettysburgTimesfrom1982thatspokeofachocolatecakesandwichwithafluffycreamcenter.ThesesandwicheswerecalledgobsandweresoldbytheDutchMaidBakeryofGeistown.Whilethenamewasdifferent, thedescription (andahugepicture) showed that thesewerenodoubtwhoopiepies.TheDutchMaidBakerypurchasedtherightstothegobin1980fromtheHarrisandBoyer Baking Company also of Pennsylvania, which had startedmanufacturing gobs in 1927.MainemighthaveafewyearsonPennsylvaniawhenitcomestowhoopiepies,butwho’stoknowforsure?

CHAPTER 10: OLD-FASHIONEDFRUITDESSERTSANDPUDDINGS

BakedAppleDumplings

AppleFritters

Cranberry-AppleCrisp

MaineBlueberryGrunt

SkilletPeachCobbler

BananaPudding

NewOrleansBourbonBreadPudding

SummerBerryPudding

Whilefreshfruit,likeacrispappleorajuicypeach,shouldsufficefordessert,itso often doesn’t. Enter thrifty, humble, but oh-so-sat-isfying American fruitdesserts like dumplings, fritters, cobblers, and crisps. But what is Americanfruit? Blueberries and cranberries, sure. But apples and peaches are not asquintessentiallyAmericanasyoumightthink.ApplesgottheirstartinAmericafromseedsbroughtbyEnglishcolonists(thefirstappleorchardwasplantedonaslopeinBostoninwhatisnowBeaconHill),whilepeachesgottheirfootholdinFlorida,Louisiana,andGeorgia,courtesyoftheSpanishexplorerswhoarrivedthereinthelate16thcentury.

Ofthemyriadofappledessertsseennow,classicappledumplingsandapplefrittersaretwoofourfavorites.Inthe19thcentury,everyhomemakercouldtosstogether abiscuit or piedoughanddeftlywrap it around stuffed apples.Theytiedupthedumplingsincheesecloth,boiledorsteamedthem,andservedthemwith sauce; latter-day cooks prefer to bake them.We’re not sure when appledumplingsfelloutoffavor,butwesetouttoresurrectthem.Thesamegoesforapple fritters. Today, these apple-studded pastries seem to be elbowing outmuffins and scones at coffee shops, butwewere surewecoulddobetter.Wewantedafritterpackedwithwarm-spicedappleflavor—crispontheoutsideandmoist,notgreasy,within.Amongthesimplestfruitdessertsouttherearecobblers,crisps,andthefunny-

named grunts. But soggy toppings, too-thick (or too-thin) fillings, andunbalancedfruitflavorwereafewofthechallengeswe’dtackleincreatingourversions.Inthischapter,we’llshowyouhowtomakefruitdessertsthebesttheycanbe.

BAKEDAPPLEDUMPLINGS

DOUGH


3 tablespoonssugar


¾

teaspoonsalt


tablespoonsvegetableshortening,cutinto½-inchpiecesandchilled

BakedAppleDumplings WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Apple dumplings are a homespun

combination of warm pastry, concentrated apple flavor, raisins, butter, andcinnamon, but too often the apples turn too soft or are unevenly baked. Thepastrycanalsoturngummyfromtheapples’juices.Wefoundthatbiscuitdoughwas easier to workwith than pie dough and did a great job of absorbing theliquidfromtheappleswithoutgettingmushy.Ratherthanbakingthedumplingsin syrup as some recipes instruct, we served our sauce on the side, whichpreservedthedumplings’texture.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES8

Useamelonballerorametalteaspoonmeasuretocoretheapples.Servewarm,withCiderSauce(recipefollows).

5

¾

cupcoldbuttermilk

APPLEDUMPLINGS




3tablespoonsgoldenraisins,chopped

4 GoldenDeliciousapples

2eggwhites,lightlybeaten

1.FORTHEDOUGH:Process flour, sugar,bakingpowder, and salt in foodprocessoruntilcombined,about15seconds.Scatterbutterandshorteningoverflour mixture and pulse until mixture resembles wet sand, about 10 pulses;transfer to bowl. Stir in buttermilk until dough forms. Turn out onto lightlyflouredworksurfaceandkneadbrieflyuntildoughiscohesive.Pressdoughinto8 by 4-inch rectangle.Cut in half,wrap each half tightly in plasticwrap, andrefrigerateuntilfirm,about1hour.

2.FORTHEAPPLEDUMPLINGS:Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento425degrees.Combinesugarandcinnamoninsmallbowl.Insecondbowl,combinebutter, raisins,and3 tablespoonscinnamonsugarmixture.Peelapples and halve through equator. Remove core and pack butter mixture intoeachapplehalf.

3.Onlightlyflouredcounter,rolleachdoughhalfinto12-inchsquare.Cuteach12-inch square into four 6-inch squares. Working with one at a time, lightlybrush edges of dough square with egg white and place apple, cut side up, incenterofeachsquare.Gatherdough1corneratatimeontopofapple,crimpingedgestoseal.Usingparingknife,cutventholeintopofeachdumpling.

4. Line rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Arrange dumplings onpreparedbakingsheet,brush topswitheggwhite,andsprinklewith remainingcinnamonsugar.Bakeuntildoughisgoldenbrownandjuicesarebubbling,20to25minutes.Letcoolonbakingsheetfor10minutes.Serve.

1 cupapplecider

1 cupwater

1cup(7ounces)sugar

½




CIDERSAUCEMAKESABOUT1½CUPS

Bringcider,water,sugar,andcinnamontosimmerinsmallsaucepanandcookover medium-high heat until thickened and reduced to 1½ cups, about 15minutes.Offheat,whisk inbutter and lemon juice.Drizzleoverdumplings toserve.

WRAPPINGDUMPLINGS

1.Foldcornersofdoughuptoencloseapplehalves,overlappingandcrimpingtoseal.

2.Arrangedumplingsonbakingsheet,brushwitheggwhite,andsprinklewithcinnamonsugar.

APPLEFRITTERS

FRITTERS

2GrannySmithapples,peeled,cored,andcutinto¼-inchpieces


⅓ cup(2⅓ounces)granulatedsugar


1 teaspoonsalt

AppleFrittersWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSApplefrittersshouldbecrispontheoutside,

moistwithin, and singout apple flavor.Toooften, recipes for fritters produceleaden, soggy pastries with undercooked interiors. We found that the bestsolution was to dry the apples with paper towels and mix themwith the dryingredients. The dry ingredients absorbed the moisture that would otherwisehave leached out during frying.As for the batter,we found that replacing themilk with apple cider reinforced the sweet apple flavor. And a quick glaze,spikedwithmore cider andwarm spices and spooned over the warm fritters,addedanotherlayerofappleflavor.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

MAKES10FRITTERS

We likeGranny Smith apples in these fritters because they are tart and crisp.Applejuicedoesn’thaveenoughflavor—-youreallydoneedthecider.


¼


¾

cupapplecider



3 cupspeanutorvegetableoil

GLAZE


¼

cupapplecider

½


¼


1. FOR THE FRITTERS: Spread prepared apples in single layer on papertowel–-linedbaking sheet andpat thoroughlydrywith paper towels.Combineflour, sugar,bakingpowder, salt, cinnamon, andnutmeg in largebowl.Whiskcider,eggs,andmeltedbutter inmediumbowluntilcombined.Stirapplesintoflourmixture.Stirincidermixtureuntilincorporated.

2.Setwirerackinrimmedbakingsheet.HeatoilinDutchovenovermedium-highheatto350degrees.Use⅓-cupmeasuretotransfer5heapingportionsofbatter to oil. Press batter lightly with back of spoon to flatten. Fry, adjustingburnerasnecessary tomaintainoil temperaturebetween325and350degrees,until deepgoldenbrown, 2 to3minutesper side.Transfer fritters topreparedwire rack.Bringoilback to350degreesand repeatwith remainingbatter.Letfritterscoolfor5minutes.

3.FORTHEGLAZE:While fritterscool,whisksugar,cider,cinnamon,andnutmeg in medium bowl until smooth. Top each fritter with 1 heapingtablespoonglaze.Letglazesetfor10minutes.Serve.

FORMINGFRITTERS

1.Use⅓-cupmeasureandspoontocarefullyandgentlyportionbatterintohotoil.

2.Usespoontogentlypressoneachfritter.Flattenedshapehelpsinteriorcookthrough.

CRANBERRY-APPLECRISP

TOPPING

¾ cup(3¾ounces)all-purposeflour½ cuppacked(3½ounces)lightbrownsugar½ cup(3½ounces)granulatedsugar



¾ cup(2¼ounces)old-fashionedrolledoats

FILLING

pound(4cups)freshorfrozencranberries

Cranberry-AppleCrispWHYTHIS RECIPEWORKS Although it’s hard to imagine that apple

crisp needs much improving upon, we liked the tartness and texture thatcranberries added to one of our favorite standard dessert recipes. Rawcranberriesproved toobitter, butwe founddriedcranberries andcooked freshberriesmadecranberry-applecrispwiththebesttasteandtexture.Andweusedtapiocatothickenthefruitjuicesinsteadofcornstarchorflour.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES8TO10

If you can’t find Braeburn apples, Golden Delicious will work. Serve withvanillaicecreamorwhippedcream.

1

1¼ cups(8¾ounces)granulatedsugar¼

cupwater

2½ poundsGrannySmithapples,peeled,cored,halved,andcutinto½-inchpieces2½ poundsBraeburnapples,peeled,cored,halved,andcutinto½-inchpieces

1 cupdriedsweetenedcranberries


1.FORTHETOPPING:Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento400degrees.Pulseflour,brownsugar,granulatedsugar,cinnamon,andbutterinfoodprocessoruntilmixturehastextureofcoarsecrumbs(somepea-sizepiecesofbutterwill remain), about 12pulses.Transfer tomediumbowl, stir in oats,and use fingers to pinch topping into peanut-size clumps. Refrigerate whilepreparingfilling.

2. FORTHE FILLING: Bring fresh cranberries, ¾ cup sugar, and water tosimmer in Dutch oven over medium-high heat and cook until cranberries arecompletely softened andmixture is jamlike, about 10minutes.Scrapemixtureinto bowl.Add apples, remaining½ cup sugar, and dried cranberries to now-emptyDutchovenandcookovermedium-highheatuntilapplesbegintoreleasetheirjuices,about5minutes.

3.Offheat,stircranberrymixtureandtapiocaintoapplemixture.Pourinto13by 9-inch baking dish set in rimmed baking sheet and smooth surface evenlywithspatula.

4.TOASSEMBLE:Moundtoppingoverfillingincenterofdish,thenuseyourfingers to rake topping out toward edges of dish and bake until juices arebubbling and topping is deep golden brown, about 30minutes. (If topping isbrowning tooquickly, looselycoverwithpieceofaluminumfoil.)Letcoolonwirerackfor10minutes.Serve.

TO MAKE AHEAD: After pinching topping into small clumps in step 1,transfermixturetozipper-lockbagandrefrigerateforupto5daysorfreezeforupto1month.Thecookedfillingcanberefrigeratedforupto2days.Tobake,sprinklechilledtoppingevenlyoverchilledfilling,looselycoverwithfoil,andbakefor20minutes.Uncoverandbakeuntiljuicesarebubblingandtoppingisdeepgoldenbrown,15to20minuteslonger.

CRISPESSENTIALS

1.Cookcranberries,sugar,andwateruntilmixtureisthickandjammy.

2.Moundtoppingincenterofdish,thenuseyourfingerstoraketoppingouttowardedgesofdish.

MAINEBLUEBERRYGRUNT

FILLING

2½ pounds(8cups)blueberries½ cup(3½ounces)sugar½


2 tablespoonswater

1teaspoongratedlemonzestplus1tablespoonjuice


MaineBlueberryGrunt WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS This 19th-century fruit dessert boasts

sweetened stewed berries covered with drop biscuit dough that is covered tosteam and cook through.We found the idea of a simple stovetop fruit dessertappealing,butstandardrecipesproducedwashed-outfruitandasoggytopping.Toimprovetherecipe,wecookeddownhalfoftheberriesuntiljammy,andthenstirredintheremainingberries.Abitofcornstarchfurtherthickenedthefilling.Forafluffybiscuittopping,weplacedadishtowelunderthelidduringcookingtoabsorbcondensation.Asprinkleofcinnamonsugaroverthefinisheddessertprovidedsweetcrunch.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES12

Donotusefrozenblueberrieshere,astheywillmakethefillingwatery.Youwillneedacleandishtowelforthisrecipe.

TOPPING

¾

cupbuttermilk

6tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,meltedandcooledslightly


2¼ cups(11¼ounces)all-purposeflour1½


½

teaspoonbakingsoda

½

teaspoonsalt

½ cup(3½ounces)sugar½


1.FORTHEFILLING:Cook4cupsblueberries,sugar,cinnamon,water,andlemon zest in Dutch oven over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, untilmixture is thick and jamlike, 10 to 12 minutes. Whisk lemon juice andcornstarchinsmallbowl,thenstirintoblueberrymixture.Addremaining4cupsblueberries and cook until heated through, about 1 minute; remove pot fromheat,cover,andkeepwarm.

2. FOR THE TOPPING: Combine buttermilk, butter, and vanilla in 2-cupliquid measuring cup. Whisk flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and 6tablespoons sugar in large bowl. Slowly stir buttermilk mixture into flourmixtureuntildoughforms.

3.Usingsmall icecreamscoopor2 largespoons,spoongolfball–-sizedoughpiecesontopofwarmberrymixture(youshouldhave14pieces).WraplidofDutchovenwith cleandish towel (keeping towel away fromheat source) andcover pot. Simmer gently until biscuits have doubled in size and toothpickinsertedincentercomesoutclean,16to22minutes.

4. Combine remaining 2 tablespoons sugar and cinnamon in small bowl.Remove lid and sprinkle biscuit topping with cinnamon sugar. Serveimmediately.

SECRETSTOGREATGRUNT

1.Usesmallicecreamscooptodropevenlysizedballsofbiscuitdoughoverwarmfilling.

2.Acleandish towelbeneath lidabsorbscondensationduringcooking,keepingbiscuit toppinglightandfluffy.

3.Asprinklingofcinnamonsugaraddscrunchycontrasttosteamedbiscuits.

SKILLETPEACHCOBBLER

FILLING


5poundspeaches,peeled,halved,pitted,andcutinto½-inchwedges


⅛

teaspoonsalt


SkilletPeachCobblerWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSWewantedapeachcobblerthatavoideda

watery filling and soggy topping. To do this, we turned to a skillet andconcentratedthepeachflavorbyfirstsautéingthepeachesinbutterandsugartoreleasetheirjuices,thencookingthemdownuntilalltheliquidhadevaporated.Tokeepthefillingfrombeingtoomushy,wewithheldsomeofthepeachesfromsautéing, adding them just before baking. We also made the biscuits sturdyenough tostandup to the fruitbymixingmeltedbutter rather thancoldbutterintothedryingredients.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES6TO8

Four pounds of frozen sliced peaches can be substituted for fresh; there is noneedtodefrostthem.Startstep2whenthepeachesarealmostdone.

1½

teaspoonscornstarch

TOPPING



1½


¼

teaspoonbakingsoda

¼

teaspoonsalt

¾

cupbuttermilk



1.FORTHEFILLING:Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento425degrees.Meltbutterin12-inchovensafenonstickskilletovermedium-highheat.Addtwo-thirdsofpeaches,sugar,andsaltandcook,covered,untilpeachesreleasetheirjuices,about5minutes.Removelidandsimmeruntilallliquidhasevaporatedandpeachesbegin tocaramelize,15 to20minutes.Add remainingpeachesandcookuntilheatedthrough,about5minutes.Whisklemonjuiceandcornstarchinsmallbowl,thenstirintopeachmixture.Coverskilletandsetasideoffheat.

2.FORTHETOPPING:Meanwhile,whiskflour,5tablespoonssugar,bakingpowder,bakingsoda,andsaltinmediumbowl.Stirinbuttermilkandbutteruntildough forms. Turn dough out onto lightly floured work surface and kneadbrieflyuntilsmooth,about30seconds.

3. Combine remaining 1 tablespoon sugar and cinnamon. Break dough intorough 1-inch pieces and space them about ½ inch apart on top of hot peachmixture.Sprinklewithcinnamonsugarandbakeuntil toppingisgoldenbrownandfillingisthickened,18to22minutes.Letcoolonwirerackfor10minutes.Serve.

PEELINGPEACHES

1.Withparingknife,scoresmallXatbaseofeachpeach.

2.Lowerpeachesintoboilingwaterandsimmeruntilskinsloosen,30to60seconds.

3.Transferpeachesimmediatelytoicewaterandletcoolforabout1minute.

4.Useparingknifetoremovestripsofloosenedpeel,startingatXonbaseofeachpeach.

BANANAPUDDING

PUDDING

7slightlyunderripelargebananas(2½pounds),unpeeled


8 largeeggyolks


6cupshalf-and-half

½

BananaPuddingWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSWewantedourbananapuddingtoberich

and creamy, so we opted for half-and-half instead of milk in the puddingcomponent.Roastingthebananasintensifiedtheirflavorandhelpedbreakthemdown so we could incorporate them more easily into the pudding. Adding asqueezeoflemonjuicetotheroastedbananaspreventedthemfrombrowninginthe refrigerator. Even whole cookies became sodden and pasty when layeredwithhotpudding.Wesolvedtheproblembysimplywaitingforthepuddingtocoolalittlebeforeassemblingthedessert.

SERVES12

Ifyourfoodprocessorbowlholdslessthan11cups,pureehalfthepuddingwiththe roastedbananas and lemon juice in step3, transfer it to a largebowl, andwhiskintherestofthepudding.

teaspoonsalt




1(12-ounce)boxvanillawafers

WHIPPEDTOPPING

1cupheavycream,chilled

1 tablespoonsugar

½


1.FORTHEPUDDING:Adjustovenracktoupper-middlepositionandheatoven to325degrees.Place3unpeeledbananasonbakingsheetandbakeuntilskinsarecompletelyblack,about20minutes.Letcoolfor5minutes.

2.Meanwhile,whisk½cup sugar, eggyolks, and cornstarch inmediumbowluntil smooth. Bring half-and-half, remaining 1 cup sugar, and salt to simmerover medium heat in large saucepan. Whisk ½ cup simmering half-and-halfmixture intoeggyolkmixture to temper.Slowlywhisk temperedyolkmixtureinto saucepan. Cook, whisking constantly, until mixture is thick and largebubblesappearatsurface,about2minutes.Removefromheatandstirinbutterandvanilla.

3.Transferpuddingtofoodprocessor.Addwarmpeeledroastedbananasand2tablespoons lemon juice andprocess until smooth.Scrape into large bowl andplaceplasticwrapdirectlyonsurfaceofpudding.Refrigerateuntilslightlycool,about45minutes.

4. Peel and cut remaining bananas into ¼-inch slices and toss in bowl withremaining1tablespoonlemonjuice.Spoonone-quarterofpuddinginto3-quarttrifle dish and topwith layer of cookies, layer of sliced bananas, and anotherlayerofcookies.Repeattwice,endingwithpudding.Placeplasticwrapdirectlyonsurfaceofpuddingandrefrigerateuntilwafershavesoftened,atleast8hoursorupto2days.

5. FOR THEWHIPPED TOPPING: Using stand mixer fitted with whisk,whip cream, sugar, and vanilla on medium-low speed until foamy, about 1minute.Increasespeedtohighandwhipuntilstiffpeaksform,1to3minutes.(Whipped cream can be refrigerated for 4 hours.) Top banana pudding withwhippedcream.Serve.

TOASTEDCOCONUTBANANAPUDDING

Replace2cupshalf-and-halfwithone16-ouncecanunsweetenedcoconutmilkin step 2. Sprinkle ¼ cup toasted sweetened shredded coconut over whippedcream–-toppedpuddingbeforeserving.

PEANUT-YBANANAPUDDINGIn step 4, sandwich 2 vanilla wafers around 1 banana slice and ½ teaspooncreamypeanutbutter(you’llneed½cuptotal).Assemblebyalternating layersofpuddingandcookie-bananasandwiches,endingwithpudding.Sprinkle¼cupchoppedsalteddry-roastedpeanutsoverwhippedcream–-toppedpuddingbeforeserving.

NEWORLEANSBOURBONBREADPUDDING

1(18-to20-inch)baguette,torninto1-inchpieces(10cups)

1 cupgoldenraisins

¾

cupbourbon

6tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,cut into6piecesandchilled,plusextra forbakingdish

8 largeeggyolks

1½ cupspacked(10½ounces)lightbrownsugar

NewOrleansBourbonBreadPuddingWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSThebestbourbonbreadpudding isa rich,

“scoopable” custard that envelops the breadwith a balance of sweet spicinessand robust bourbon flavor. Tearing a crusty baguette into ragged pieces, thentoasting them,gave thepudding a rustic look andkept thebread from turningsoggy in the custard.We used amixture of 3 parts cream to 1 partmilk andreplacedthewholeeggswithyolksforarich,creamycustardthatdidn’tcurdle.Oncethecustardsetupintheoven,wesprinkledcinnamon,sugar,andbutterontopandletitbakeuntilthetoppingwascaramelized.

SERVES8TO10

This bread pudding is great on its own, but for a little more punch, drizzleBourbon Sauce over individual servings. A bakery-quality French baguettemakesthisdishevenbetter.

3 cupsheavycream

1 cupwholemilk


1½

teaspoonsgroundcinnamon

¼

teaspoonnutmeg

¼

teaspoonsalt


1.Adjustoven rack tomiddlepositionandheatoven to450degrees.Arrangebreadinsinglelayeronbakingsheetandbakeuntilcrispandbrowned,about12minutes, turning pieces over and switching baking sheets halfway throughbaking.Letbreadcool.Reduceoventemperatureto300degrees.

2.Meanwhile,heatraisinswith½cupbourboninsmallsaucepanovermedium-high heat until bourbon begins to simmer, 2 to 3 minutes. Strain mixture,reservingbourbonandraisinsseparately.

3.Butter13by9-inchbroiler-safebakingdish.Whiskeggyolks,brownsugar,cream,milk, vanilla, 1 teaspoon cinnamon, nutmeg, and salt together in largebowl.Whisk in reservedbourbonplus remaining¼cupbourbon.Add toastedbreadandtossuntilevenlycoated.Letmixturesituntilbreadbeginstoabsorbcustard,about30minutes,tossingoccasionally.Ifmajorityofbreadisstillhard,continuetosoakfor15to20minutes.

4.Pourhalfofbreadmixtureintopreparedbakingdishandsprinklewithhalfofraisins. Pour remaining bread mixture into dish and sprinkle with remainingraisins.Coverwithaluminumfoilandbakefor45minutes.

5. Meanwhile, mix granulated sugar and remaining ½ teaspoon cinnamon insmallbowl.Usingyourfingers,cut6tablespoonsbutterintosugarmixtureuntilsizeofsmallpeas.Removefoilfrompudding,sprinklewithbuttermixture,andbake, uncovered, until custard is just set, 20 to 25minutes. Remove puddingfromovenandheatbroiler.

6. Once broiler is heated, broil pudding until top forms golden crust, about 2minutes. Transfer towire rack and cool at least 30minutes or up to 2 hours.Serve.

1½

teaspoonscornstarch

¼

cupbourbon

¾

cupheavycream

2 tablespoonssugar

Pinchsalt

2teaspoonsunsaltedbutter,cutinto8pieces

BOURBONSAUCE

MAKESABOUT1CUP

Whiskcornstarchand2tablespoonsbourboninsmallbowluntilwellcombined.Heatcreamandsugarinsmallsaucepanovermediumheatuntilsugardissolves.Whiskincornstarchmixtureandbringtoboil.Reduceheattolowandcookuntilsauce thickens, 3 to 5 minutes. Off heat, stir in salt, butter, and remaining 2tablespoonsbourbon.Drizzlewarmsauceover individual servings. (Saucecanberefrigeratedforupto5days.)

SUMMERBERRYPUDDING

8(¼-inch-thick)sliceschallah,crustsremoved

12ouncesstrawberries,hulledandchopped(2cups)

8ouncesblackberries,halved(1½cups)

8ounces(1½cups)blueberries

5ounces(1cup)raspberries

½ cup(3½ounces)granulatedsugar

SummerBerryPuddingWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSAlthoughourinitialtestsofthistraditional

British “pudding” were fairly disastrous, we knew that good bread and freshsummerberriescouldmakeadeliciousdessert.Therectangularshapeofaloafpanprovedamorestablemoldthantraditionalroundbowls.Westaledchallahbread(our topchoice for its flavorand texture) in theovenforaddedsupport.Sincethemoisturecontentoffreshberriescanvary,westrainedthejuicefromthefillinganddippedthebreadinitourselves.Cookingonlyhalfoftheberriesand mixing the rest in later brightened the filling, and apricot preserves andgelatinhelpedthepuddingkeepitsshape.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES6

Fillinanygapsinpuddingcrustswithtoasttrimmings.

1 teaspoonunflavoredgelatin

2 tablespoonscoldwater

½ cup(5½ounces)apricotpreserves


1tablespoonconfectioners’sugar

1.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento350degrees.Line8½by4½-inchloafpanwithplasticwrap,pushingplasticintocornersandupsidesofpan and allowing excess to overhang long sides. Make cardboard cutout justlargeenoughtofitinsidepan.

2.Placechallahonwireracksetinrimmedbakingsheet.Bakeuntildry,about10 minutes, flipping challah and rotating sheet halfway through baking. Letchallahcoolcompletely.

3. Combine strawberries, blackberries, blueberries, and raspberries in bowl.Transferhalfofmixturetomediumsaucepan,addgranulatedsugar,andbringtosimmer over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally. Reduce heat to low andcontinuetocookuntilberriesreleasetheirjuicesandraspberriesbegintobreakdown,about5minutes.Offheat,stirinremainingberries.After2minutes,strainberriesthroughfine-meshstrainersetovermediumbowlfor10minutes,stirringberriesoncehalfwaythroughstraining(donotpressonberries).Reserveberryjuice.(Youshouldhave¾to1cup.)

4.Sprinklegelatinoverwater inbowland let sit until gelatin softens, about5minutes. Microwave until mixture is bubbling around edges and gelatindissolves, about 30 seconds.Whisk preserves and gelatin mixture together inlargebowl.Foldinstrainedberries.

5.Trim4slicesofchallahtofitsnuglysidebysideinbottomofloafpan(youmayhaveextrachallah).Dipslicesinreservedberryjuiceuntilsaturated,about30 seconds per side, then place in bottom of pan. Spoon berry mixture overchallah.Trimremaining4slicesofchallah tofitsnuglysidebysideon topofberries (you may have extra challah). Dip slices in reserved berry juice untilsaturated, about 30 seconds per side, then place on top of berries. Cover panloosely with plastic and place in 13 by 9-inch baking dish. Place cardboardcutout on top of pudding. Top with 3 soup cans to weigh down pudding.Refrigeratepuddingforatleast8hoursorupto24hours.

6.Usingstandmixerfittedwithwhisk,whipcreamandconfectioners’sugaronmedium-lowspeeduntilfoamy,about1minute.Increasespeedtohighandwhipuntil soft peaks form,1 to3minutes.Transfer to servingbowl.Removecans,cardboard, and plastic from top of pudding.Loosen pudding by pulling up on

edgesofplastic.Place invertedplatterover topof loafpanandflipplatterandpan upside down to unmold pudding. Discard plastic. Slice pudding withserratedknifeandservewithwhippedcream.

CONSTRUCTINGSUMMERBERRYPUDDING

1.Saturatedried,trimmedchallahwithreservedberryjuicesandplaceinbottomofplasticwrap–linedpan.

2.Spoonsweetened four-berrymixtureoverchallah,and topwith fourmoreslicesofsaturatedchallah.

CHAPTER11:SAVEROOMFORPIE

Double-CrustPieDough

ClassicSingle-CrustPieDough

No-FearSingle-CrustPieDough

ShakerLemonPie

PeachesandCreamPie

AppleSlabPie

Old-FashionedPecanPie

IceboxKeyLimePie

Mile-HighLemonMeringuePie

RaspberryChiffonPie

IceboxStrawberryPie

FrenchSilkChocolatePie

ChocolateAngelPie

English settlers were the first to bring their love of pies TO U.S. soil. TheEnglish had long enjoyed savory,meat-filled pies and on occasion, fruit pies.When faced with the abundance of berries and other fruit on American soil,settlersnaturallyfilledtheirpieswithwhatwasonhand,suchaspumpkinandcranberries.Overtheyearsregionalspecialtiesbegantodevelop.

American pies like pecan piewere originallymadewith sorghum ormaplesyrup. InTexas,where everything is big, apple slabpiewas created to feed acrowd.Shaker lemonpiewasborneof theShakers’ frugal insistenceonusingevery bit of the fruit: peel, pith, and all, andKey lime pie relies on Florida’splethoraofKeylimes—thoughwefoundthatregularlimesworkjustfine(andyoudon’thavetojuiceasmany!).Early pie crusts were not the tender, flaky pastry we know today. In fact,

Englishpieswerecalled“coffers”or“coffins,”asin“box,”andthecrustwasasturdy paste which served as a lid to keep the ingredients juicy and preventscorching—itwas not eaten.Luckily, times have changed. In this chapter,weoffer not just traditional pastry dough,madewith a combination of butter andvegetable shortening for great flavor and tender, flaky texture, but a second

variety of pie dough, which boasts the tang of cream cheese and requires norolling—yousimplypat thedough intoapieplate.Wecall itNo-FearSingle-CrustPieDough.Nowthere’snoexcuseforyounottobakeafresh,homemadepieduringtheholidaysoratanyothertimeofyear.


2 tablespoonssugar

1 teaspoonsalt

8tablespoonsvegetableshortening,cutinto¼-inchpiecesandchilled

12tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,cutinto¼-inchpiecesandchilled

6–8

tablespoonsicewater

Double-CrustPieDoughMAKESENOUGHFORONE9-INCHPIE

1. Process flour, sugar, and salt in food processor until combined, about 5seconds.Scattershorteningovertopandprocessuntilmixtureresemblescoarsecornmeal, about 10 seconds. Scatter butter over top and pulse until mixtureresemblescoarsecrumbs,about10pulses.Transfertobowl.

2.Sprinkle6tablespoonswateroverflourmixture.Usingrubberspatula,stirandpress dough until it sticks together. If dough does not come together, stir inremainingwater,1tablespoonatatime,untilitdoes.

3.Dividedoughinto2evenpiecesandflatteneachinto4-inchdisk.Wrapdiskstightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour. Let chilled dough softenslightlyoncounterbeforerolling.


1 tablespoonsugar

½

teaspoonsalt

4tablespoonsvegetableshortening,cutinto¼-inchpiecesandchilled

6tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,cutinto¼-inchpiecesandchilled

3–4

tablespoonsicewater

ClassicSingle-CrustPieDoughMAKESENOUGHFORONE9-INCHPIE

1. Process flour, sugar, and salt in food processor until combined, about 5seconds.Scattershorteningovertopandprocessuntilmixtureresemblescoarsecornmeal, about 10 seconds. Scatter butter over top and pulse until mixtureresemblescoarsecrumbs,about10pulses.Transfertobowl.

2.Sprinkle3tablespoonswateroverflourmixture.Usingrubberspatula,stirandpress dough until it sticks together. If dough does not come together, addremaining 1 tablespoonwater. Flatten dough into 4-inch disk, wrap tightly inplasticwrap,andrefrigeratefor1hour.

3.Letchilleddoughsoftenslightly.Lightly flourcounter, thenrolldough into12-inch circle and fit it into 9-inch pie plate. Trim, fold, and crimp edges ofdough.Wrapdough-linedpieplateinplasticandplaceinfreezeruntildoughisfullychilledandfirm,about30minutes,beforeusing.

ROLLINGANDFITTINGPIEDOUGH

1. Roll dough outward from its center into 12-inch circle. Between every few rolls, give doughquarterturn.

2.Tossadditionalflourunderneathdoughasneededtokeepdoughfromstickingtocounter.

3.Looselyrolldougharoundrollingpin,thengentlyunrollitoverpieplate.

4.Liftdoughandgentlypressitintopieplate,lettingexcesshangoverplate.


2 tablespoonssugar

¼

teaspoonsalt


2ouncescreamcheese,softenedbutstillcool

No-FearSingle-CrustPieDoughMAKESENOUGHFORONE9-INCHPIE

Anyone canmake this pat-in-the-pan pie dough—no rolling or transferring ofdoughtothedishrequired.Creamcheesehelpsmakethisdougheasytohandleandhelps ensure a tender crust.Make sure you press the dough evenly into aglasspieplate;ifyouholdthedough-linedplateuptothelight,youwillbeabletoclearlyseeanythickorthinspots.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

1. Lightly coat 9-inch Pyrex pie plate with vegetable oil spray.Whisk flour,sugar,andsalttogetherinbowl.

2. Using stand mixer fitted with paddle, beat butter and cream cheese onmedium-high speed until completely homogeneous, about 2minutes, stoppingonceor twice toscrapedownbeaterandsidesofbowl.Addflourmixtureandmix onmedium-low speed untilmixture resembles coarse cornmeal, about 20seconds.Scrapedownsidesofbowl.Increasemixerspeedtomedium-highandbeat until dough begins to form large clumps, about 30 seconds. Reserve 3tablespoonsofdough.Turnremainingdoughontolightlyflouredcounter,gatherintoball,andflatteninto6-inchdisk.Transferdisktogreasedpieplate.

3.Pressdoughevenlyoverbottomofpieplatetowardsides,usingheelofyourhand.Holdplateuptolighttoensurethatdoughisevenlydistributed.Withyourfingertips,continuetoworkdoughoverbottomofplateandupsidesuntilevenlydistributed.

4.Onflouredcounter,rollreserveddoughinto12inchrope.Divideinto3piecesandrolleachpieceinto8-inchrope.Arrangeropes,evenlyspaced,aroundtopofpie plate, pressing and squeezing to join them with dough in plate and formuniform edge.Use your fingers to flute edge of dough.Wrap dough-lined pieplate inplasticwrapandplace in freezeruntildough is fullychilledand firm,about30minutes,beforeusing.

NO-FEARPIEDOUGH

1.Holdpieplateuptolighttocheckthicknessofdough;itshouldbetranslucent,notopaque.Payattentiontocurvededges.

2. Roll reserved dough into three 8-inch ropes. Arrange ropes around perimeter of pie plate,leavingsmall(about1-inch)gapsbetweenthem.

3.Squeezeropestogether.

4.Createaflutededge,dippingyourfingersinflourifdoughissticky.

SHAKERLEMONPIE

1recipeDouble-CrustPieDough

3largelemons,slicedthinandseeded

1¾ cups(12¼ounces)sugar⅛

teaspoonsalt

1 tablespooncornstarch

4 largeeggs


ShakerLemonPieWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSMostShakerlemonpierecipesmixlemon

slices—peelandall—withsugarandeggstoformacustardyfilling.Butunlesswemaceratedthelemonslicesfor24hours,thepieturnedoutbitter.Wewantedtospeedup this recipe formodern times.First,wesqueezed theseeded lemonslices and reserved the juice for the filling.Then,we simmered the slices andthenadded them to the fillingwith theuncooked juice forbright lemon flavorwithoutanymaceratingtime.Seethesidebarsthatfollowtherecipe.

SERVES8

Haveanextralemononhandincasethethreeslicedlemonsdonotyieldenoughjuice.Clickhereformoreinformationonrollingandfittingpiedough.

1.Roll1diskofdoughinto12-inchcircleonlightlyflouredcounter,thenfititinto 9-inch pie plate, letting excess dough hang over edge; coverwith plasticwrapandrefrigeratefor30minutes.Rollotherdiskofdoughinto12-inchcircleonlightlyflouredcounter,thentransfertoparchmentpaper–linedbakingsheet;coverwithplasticandrefrigeratefor30minutes.

2.Adjust oven rack to lowest position andheat oven to425degrees.Squeezelemonslicesinfine-meshstrainersetoverbowl;reservejuice(youshouldhave6tablespoons).Bringdrainedslicesand2cupswater toboil insaucepan, thenreduce heat to medium-low and simmer until slices are softened, about 5minutes.Drainwell anddiscard liquid.Combine softened lemon slices, sugar,salt,and¼cupreservedlemonjuiceinbowl;stiruntilsugardissolves.

3. Whisk cornstarch and remaining 2 tablespoons lemon juice in large bowl.Whiskeggsintocornstarchmixture,thenslowlystirinlemonslicemixtureuntilcombined. Pour into chilled pie shell. Brush edges of doughwith 1 teaspooncream.Looselyrollsecondpieceofdougharoundrollingpinthengentlyunrollitoverpie.Trim,fold,andcrimpedges,andcut4ventholesintop.Brushtopwithremaining2teaspoonscream.

4.Bakeuntillightgolden,about20minutes,thendecreaseoventemperatureto375degreesandcontinuetobakeuntilgoldenbrown,20to25minutes.Letpiecoolonwirerackforatleast1hour.Serve.(Piecanberefrigeratedfor2days.)

BUILDINGBOLD,NOTBITTER,LEMONFLAVOR

Usingslicedwholelemons,pithandall,canproduceanoverwhelminglybitterfilling.Wefoundafewtrickstocreatebrightlemonflavorwhiletemperingthebitternessofthepith.

1.Squeezeseededlemonslicesandreservejuiceforfilling.

2.Simmerslicestomellowbitternessofpithandthenaddthemtofillingwithuncookedjuice.

THESLICEISRIGHT

WhiledevelopingourrecipeforShakerLemonPie,wefoundthatusingaknifetoevenlycutthelemonsintopaper-thinsliceswasadifficultandtime-consumingtask.Wehadbetterresultswithamandoline(orV-slicer),whichproducedperfectlythinslicesinnotimeatall.Ifyoudon’thaveamandoline,wedidfindanotherpieceofkitchenequipmentthatwillmaketheprocesseasier—thefreezer.Poppingthelemonsintothefreezerforabout30minutesfirmsthemupforbetterhandslicing,whichisbestaccomplishedwithaserratedknife.

SHAKERCOOKING

TheShakers’foodwasneverornateandwasalwayshealthyandheartyenoughtosupporttheirindustrious,hard-workinglifestyle.Shakersscrubbed—ratherthanpeeled—theirvegetables(and,inthecaseofShakerLemonPie,theircitrusfruit)tominimizewaste.Theywerealsopioneersinusingexactmeasurementsincookingatatimewhenmanyrecipescalledfora“dash,”“glob,”or“handful”ofsomething.

PEACHESANDCREAMPIE

1recipeClassicSingle-CrustPieDough,fittedinto9inchpieplateandchilled

2poundsripebutfirmpeaches,peeled,halved,andpitted

2tablespoonsplus½cup(4⅓ounces)sugar


¼

teaspoonsalt

⅓

PeachesandCreamPieWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSOld-fashioned recipes for this pie call for

simply arranging peaches in a pie crust, dousing them with fresh cream, andbaking. But today’s commercial cream gave us a milky, lumpy, and blandpuddle rather than a rich filling. To thicken the cream,wewhisked in a littleflourand twoeggsyolks.But the juicypeacheswreakedwateryhavoconourcustardy pie filling.Roasting them in the oven evaporated their excess liquid,andadustingofsugarencouragedcaramelizingforevenmoreflavor.Prebakingthecrustensureditwouldstaycrispandflakyaftertheroastedfruitandfillingwereadded.Seethesidebarsthatfollowtherecipe.

SERVES8

Keepaneyeonthepeachesat theendof theirbakingtimetoensure that theydon’tscorch.

cupheavycream

2 largeeggyolks

½


1.Adjustovenrackstoupper-middleandlower-middlepositionsandheatovento 375 degrees. Line chilled crustwith double layer of aluminum foil and fillwithpieweights.

2.Placepeachhalvescutsideuponfoil-linedrimmedbakingsheetandsprinklewith2tablespoonssugar.Bakepeachesonupper-middlerackuntilsoftenedandjuiceisreleased,about30minutes,flippinghalfwaythroughbaking.

3. After 30 minutes, place crust on lower-middle rack and, while peachescontinue to roast, bake until edges are lightly browned, about 15 minutes.Remove crust from oven and carefully remove foil and weights. Continue tobakeuntil bottomof crust is light goldenbrownandpeaches are caramelized,about5minuteslonger.Coolcrustandpeachesfor15minutes.

4.Reduce oven temperature to 325 degrees.Cut peach halves lengthwise intoquarters.Arrangepeachesinsinglelayerovercrust.Combineremaining½cupsugar, flour, and salt in bowl. Whisk in cream, egg yolks, and vanilla untilsmooth. Pour cream mixture over peaches. Bake until filling is light goldenbrownandfirmincenter,45to55minutes.Coolpieonwirerackforatleast3hours.Serve.

TWICE-BAKEDPEACHES

Eatapeachoutofhand,anditsjuicinessisnosmallpartofwhatmakesitsogood.Butcookthefruit,andthatsamehighwatercontentcanruinpeachpie,especiallywhencoupledwithcream.Toevaporatethepeachjuicesandconcentratethepeachflavor,weroastedthefruitbeforefillingthepie.Asprinkleofsugarhelps thepeachhalvescaramelize.Plus, tosave time,whileyou’reroastingthefruitononerackoftheoven,youcanprebakethecrustonanother.

BLINDBAKINGAPIECRUST

Thecrustsformanypiesandtartsarebakedbeforefilling(thisiscalledblindbaking)sothattheystaygoldenbrown,crisp,andflakyoncefilled.

1.Linechilledpiecrustwithdoublelayerofaluminumfoil,coveringedgestopreventburning.

2.Fillcrustwithpieweightsorpenniesandbakeuntillightlybrowned,about15minutes.

3.Removepieweightsand foil andcontinue tobakeuntil lightgoldenbrown,about5minuteslonger.

APPLESLABPIE

PIE

3½ poundsGrannySmithapples,peeled,cored,halved,andslicedthin3½ poundsGoldenDeliciousapples,peeled,cored,halved,andslicedthin1½ cups(10½ounces)granulatedsugar½

teaspoonsalt

1½ cups(4ounces)animalcrackers

2(16-ounce)boxesrefrigeratedpiedough


AppleSlabPieWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSUnlikeatraditionalapplepie,aslabpieis

preparedinabakingsheetandcanfeedupto20people.Itsfillingisthickenedtoensureneatslicing,anditscrustistoppedwithasugaryglaze.Butrollingoutthedough for thismammothpieprovedproblematic, asdidmaking the fillingthick enough to hold up to slicing. Gluing two sturdy store-bought cruststogetherwithwaterandthenrollingthedoughintoalargerectangleallowedusto get the crust into the large pan without a tear. To give the crust a sweet,buttery flavor, we rolled it in crushed animal crackers. Tapioca thickened thefillingwellwithoutmakingitstarchy.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES18TO20

Wepreferan18by13-inchnonstickrimmedbakingsheetforthispie.Ifusingaconventionalbakingsheet,coatitlightlywithvegetableoilspray.




GLAZE

¾ cupreservedapplejuice(fromfilling)


1tablespoonunsaltedbutter,softened

1¼ cups(5ounces)confectioners’sugar

1.FORTHEPIE:Combineapples,1cupsugar,andsalt incolandersetoverlargebowl.Letsit, tossingoccasionally,untilapples release their juices,about30minutes. Press gently on apples to extract liquid and reserve¾ cup juice.Adjustovenracktolower-middlepositionandheatovento350degrees.

2.FORTHEBOTTOMCRUST:Pulsecrackersandremaining½cupsugarinfoodprocessoruntil finelyground, about20pulses.Dust counterwithcrackermixture, brushhalf of 1 pie roundwithwater, overlapwith secondpie round,and dust top with cracker mixture. Roll out dough to 19 by 14 inches andtransfer to rimmed baking sheet. Brush doughwith butter, cover looselywithplasticwrapandrefrigerate.

3. FOR THE TOP CRUST: Roll remaining 2 dough rounds together withremainingcrackermixturetoa19by14-inchrectangle.

4. Toss drained apples with tapioca, cinnamon, and lemon juice and arrangeevenlyoverbottomcrust,pressinglightlytoflatten.Brushedgesofbottomcrustwithwaterandarrangetopcrustonpie.Presscruststogether.Useparingknifeto trim any excess dough.Use fork to crimp and seal outside edgeof pie andthen pierce top of pie at 2-inch intervals. Bake until pie is golden brown andjuicesarebubbling,about1hour.Letpiecoolonwirerackfor1hour.

5. FORTHEGLAZE:While pie is cooling, simmer reserved apple juice insaucepanovermediumheatuntilsyrupyandreducedto¼cup,about6minutes.Stir in lemon juice and butter and let cool to room temperature. Whisk inconfectioners’ sugar and brush glaze evenly over warm pie. Let pie coolcompletely, at least 1 hour longer. Serve. (Pie can be refrigerated for up to 1day.)

HOWTOMAKEAPPLESLABPIE

1.Usewaterto“glue”together2store-boughtpiecrusts.

2.Addflavortothebottomcrustbyrollingitoutinmixtureofcrushedcookiecrumbsandsugar.

3.Aftertransferringbottomcrusttobakingdish,brushitwithmeltedbutterforextrarichness.

4.Topfilledpiewithsecond“double”crustanduseforktotightlysealedgesofcrust.

OLD-FASHIONEDPECANPIE

1 cupmaplesyrup


½

cupheavycream

1 tablespoonmolasses

4tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,cutinto½-inchpieces

½

teaspoonsalt

Old-FashionedPecanPie WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS The pecan pies of today bear little

resemblancetotheir19-th-centuryinspiration.Couldwere-createold-fashionedpecan pie without using modern-day processed corn syrup? Many traditionalsyrups(cane,sorghum)producedagreatpie,butwehadtomailawayforthoseingredients.Intheend,combiningmaplesyrupwithbrownsugarandmolassesreplicatedtheold-fashionedversionsperfectly.Westartedthepieatahighoventemperature to ensure the bottom crust was crisp and golden brown and thendroppedthetemperaturetofinishbaking.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES8TO10

ServewithBourbonWhippedCream(recipefollows),ifdesired.

6 largeeggyolks,lightlybeaten

1½ cups(6ounces)pecans,toastedandchopped

1recipeClassicSingle-CrustPieDough,fittedinto9-inchpieplateandchilled

1.Adjustovenracktolowestpositionandheatovento450degrees.Heatsyrup,sugar,cream,andmolassesinsaucepanovermediumheat,stirringoccasionally,until sugar dissolves, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool for 5minutes.Whiskbutterandsaltintosyrupmixtureuntilcombined.Whiskineggyolksuntilincorporated.

2.Scatterpecansinpieshell.Carefullypourfillingover.Placepieinovenandimmediately reduce oven temperature to 325 degrees. Bake until filling is setandcenterjigglesslightlywhenpieisgentlyshaken,45minutesto1hour.Letpiecoolonrackfor1hour, thenrefrigerateuntil set,about3hoursorup to1day.Bringtoroomtemperaturebeforeserving.

1 cupheavycream

2 tablespoonsbourbon

1½

tablespoonspackedlightbrownsugar

½


BOURBONWHIPPEDCREAM

MAKESABOUT2CUPS

Although any style of whiskey will work here, we like the smokiness ofbourbon.

Usingstandmixerfittedwithwhisk,whipcream,bourbon,sugar,andvanillaonmedium-lowspeeduntilfoamy,about1minute.Increasespeedtohighandwhipuntilstiffpeaksform,about2minutes.(Whippedcreamcanberefrigeratedfor4hours.)

MOVEOVER,KARO

Before cloying Karo syrup monopolized the market, pies were made with many other, lessprocessed typesofsyrup, includingsorghum(made fromacerealgrass)andcane(made fromthe boiled-down juice of the sugarcane plant). These syrups still exist, and you canmail-orderthem, or travel to places like Louisiana or Kentucky to find them.We tasted a range of suchsyrups,includingSteen’s100%PureCaneSyrupandTownsend’sSweetSorghum,thentriedtoduplicate their complex flavors from products we could buy at the supermarket. In the end, acombinationofthreeordinarysweetenerscreatedanold-fashionedflavorthateasilybestedKaro.

Molassesbringsarobust,slightlybitterquality.

Lightbrownsugaraddswarmthandcarameltones.

Maplesyrupaddsdelicatecomplexity.

ICEBOXKEYLIMEPIE

CRUST

8wholegrahamcrackers,brokenintosmallpieces

2 tablespoonssugar


IceboxKeyLimePieWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSAuthenticKeylimepierecipesusedtobe

simpleanduncooked—but theycontained raweggs, ano-no inmodern times.WewantedtodevelopanegglessKeylimepierecipeasbrightandcustardyastheoriginal.Inlieuofusingeggyolks,wefoundtherightratioofinstantvanillapudding,gelatin,andcreamcheesetothickenourIceboxKeyLimePie’sfillingintoaperfect,smoothconsistency.Afullcupoffreshlimejuiceproducedapiewithbracinglimeflavor.Limezestaddedanotherlayerofflavor,andprocessingthezestwithalittlesugaroffsetitssournessandeliminatedtheannoyingchewybits.Seethesidebarsthatfollowtherecipe.

SERVES8TO10

Useinstantpudding,whichrequiresnostovetopcooking,forthisrecipe.Donotbetemptedtousebottledlimejuice,whichlacksdepthofflavor.

FILLING

¼ cup(1¾ounces)sugar

1tablespoongratedlimezestplus1cupjuice(8limes)


1(14-ounce)cansweetenedcondensedmilk

⅓

cupinstantvanillapuddingmix

1¼



1.FORTHECRUST:Adjust oven rack tomiddle position andheat oven to350degrees.Process crackers and sugar in foodprocessoruntil finelyground,about30seconds.Addmeltedbutterinsteadystreamwhilepulsinguntilcrumbsresembledampsand.Sprinklemixture into9-inchpieplate andusebottomofdry measuring cup to press crumbs firmly into bottom and sides. Bake untilfragrantandbrownedaroundedges,12to14minutes.Letcoolcompletely.

2.FORTHEFILLING:Process sugarandzest inclean foodprocessoruntilsugarturnsbrightgreen,about30seconds.Addcreamcheeseandprocessuntilcombined,about30seconds.Addcondensedmilkandpuddingmixandprocessuntil smooth, about 30 seconds. Scrape down sides of bowl. Sprinkle gelatinover2tablespoonslimejuiceinsmallbowlandletsituntilgelatinsoftens,about5 minutes. Heat in microwave for 15 seconds; stir until dissolved. Withprocessorrunning,pouringelatinmixture,remaininglimejuice,andvanillaandmixuntilthoroughlycombined,about30seconds.

3.Pour filling intocooledcrust, coverwithplasticwrap,and refrigerate foratleast 3hoursor up to2days.To serve, let pie sit at room temperature for 10minutesbeforeslicing.

BIGGERLIMES=LESSWORK

WhendevelopingourrecipeforIceboxKeyLimePie,wefoundtheflavorofKeylimesandregularsupermarketlimes(calledPersianlimes)tobealmostidenticalinourpierecipe.Buttherewasabigdifferenceinsqueezingtime.

KEYLIMESWehadtosqueeze40Keylimestoyield1cupofjuice.

PERSIANLIMESJustsixtoeightPersianlimesgaveusallthejuiceweneeded.

AMYSTERYOFPIEHISTORY

BeforeGailBordeninventedsweetenedcondensedmilkin1856,drinkingmilkwasahealthrisk,as there was no pasteurization or refrigeration for fresh milk. The shelf-stability and safety ofsweetenedcondensedmilkmade itespeciallypopular inareas like theFloridaKeys,where thehotclimatepromotedrapidspoilageofanythingperishable.Likemanyofouriconicfoods,nooneknowsforsurewhenorbywhomthefirstKeylimepiewasmade,butwithcannedmilkineverypantrybythe1870sandanabundanceoftinyKeylimesthroughoutthearea,itwasonlyamatteroftime.Mostfoodhistorianstracethehistoryofthispiebacktothe1890s,buttherearethose—especiallyintheKeys—whoclaimtherecipeisdecadesolder.

MILE-HIGHLEMONMERINGUEPIE

1recipesingle-crustpiedough,fittedinto9-inchpieplateandchilled

LEMONFILLING


1cuplemonjuiceplus2tablespoonsgratedzest(5lemons)

½

cupwater


Mile-HighLemonMeringuePieWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSWewanteda lemonmeringuepiewithan

impressivelytallandfluffytopping,sowemadethemeringuewithahotsugarsyrupandaddedabitofcreamoftartartotheeggwhitesaswebeatthem.Thisensured that themeringuewas cooked through and stable enough to be piledhigh on top of the filling. For our pie’s bright citrus flavor, we flavored thefillingwithlemonzestandlemonjuiceandthen,toensurethefillingwassilkysmooth,westrainedoutthezest.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES8TO10

YoucanuseClassicSingle-CrustPieDoughorNo-FearSingle-CrustPieDoughforthispie.Thispieisbestservedonthedayit’smade.

¼

teaspoonsalt

8 largeeggyolks


MERINGUE

1cup(7ounces)sugar

½

cupwater

4 largeeggwhites

Pinchsalt

½


½


1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 375 degrees. Linechilledcrustwithdoublelayerofaluminumfoilandfillwithpieweights.Bakeuntilpiedoughlooksdryandislightincolor,25to30minutes.Removeweightsand foilandcontinue tobakecrustuntildeepgoldenbrown,10 to12minuteslonger.Letcrustcoolonwireracktoroomtemperature.

2.FORTHEFILLING:Whisksugar,lemonjuice,water,cornstarch,andsalttogether in large saucepan until cornstarch is dissolved.Bring to simmer overmedium heat, whisking occasionally until mixture becomes translucent andbegins to thicken,about5minutes.Whisk ineggyolksuntilcombined.Stir inlemonzestandbutter.Bringtosimmerandstirconstantlyuntilmixtureisthickenoughtocoatbackofspoon,about2minutes.Strainthroughfine-meshstrainerinto cooled pie shell and scrape filling off underside of strainer. Place plasticwrapdirectly on surfaceof filling and refrigerate until set andwell chilled, atleast2hoursorupto1day.

3.FORTHEMERINGUE:Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento400degrees.Combinesugarandwaterinsmallsaucepan.Bringtovigorousboilovermedium-highheat.Oncesyrupcomestorollingboil,cook4minutes(mixturewillbecomeslightlythickenedandsyrupy).Removefromheatandsetasidewhilebeatingwhites.

4. Using stand mixer fitted with whisk, whip egg whites in large bowl atmedium-lowspeeduntilfrothy,about1minute.Addsaltandcreamoftartarandwhip,gradually increasingspeedtomedium-high,untilwhitesholdsoftpeaks,about2minutes.Withmixerrunning,slowlypourhotsyrupintowhites(avoidpouringsyrupontowhiskoritwillsplash).Addvanillaandwhipuntilmeringuehascooledandbecomesverythickandshiny,5to9minutes.

5. Using rubber spatula, moundmeringue over filling, making sure meringuetouchesedgesofcrust.Usespatulatocreatepeaksallovermeringue.Bakeuntilpeaks turn goldenbrown, about 6minutes.Let pie cool onwire rack to roomtemperature.Serve.

MAKINGAMERINGUEMOUNTAIN

1.Use rubber spatula to pressmeringue onto edge of pie crust. Thiswill keepmeringue fromshrinking.

2.Usespatulatomakedramaticpeaksandswirlsallovermeringue.

RASPBERRYCHIFFONPIE


FRUIT

12ounces(2½cups)frozenraspberries

3tablespoonspectin(-Sure-Jell)


RaspberryChiffonPieWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSRaspberrychiffonpiecanoftenbeweakon

berryflavor.Wewantedtoproduceanintenselyflavoredpie,soweincludedalayerofsweetened,thickenedfruitonthecrustandbeneaththechiffon.Wealsostiffened our recipe’s chiffon filling by using extra gelatin and a little creamcheese,whichenabledittoholdadditionalraspberrypureeforevenmoreflavor.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES8TO10

YoucanuseClassicSingle-CrustPieDoughorNo-FearSingle-CrustPieDoughforthispie.Theraspberry-flavoredgelatinisimportantforthecolorandflavorof the chiffon layer; do not substitute unflavored gelatin. For an accuratemeasurementofboilingwater,bringafullkettleofwatertoaboil,thenmeasureoutthedesiredamount.

Pinchsalt

5ounces(1cup)freshraspberries

CHIFFON

3tablespoonsraspberry-flavoredgelatin

3 tablespoonsboilingwater



TOPPING

1¼ cupsheavycream,chilled

2 tablespoonssugar


2.FORTHEFRUIT:Cookfrozenberriesinmediumsaucepanovermedium-highheat,stirringoccasionally,untilberriesbegintogiveuptheirjuice,about3minutes.Stirinpectinandbringtofullboil,stirringconstantly.Stirinsugarandsalt and return to full boil. Cook, stirring constantly, until slightly thickened,about2minutes.Pourthroughfine-meshstrainerintomediumbowl,pressingonsolids to extract as much puree as possible. Scrape puree off underside ofstrainerintobowl.

3. Transfer ⅓ cup raspberry puree to small bowl and let cool to roomtemperature. Gently fold fresh raspberries into remaining puree. Spread fruitmixtureevenlyoverbottomofcooledpieshellandsetaside.

4. FORTHECHIFFON: Dissolve gelatin in boilingwater in bowl of standmixer. Fit stand mixer with paddle, add cream cheese and reserved⅓ cupraspberrypuree,andbeatonhighspeed,scrapingdownbowlonceortwice,untilsmooth, about 2 minutes. Add cream and beat on medium-low speed untilincorporated,about30seconds.Scrapedownbowl.Increasespeedtohighandbeatuntilcreamholdsstiffpeaks,1to2minutes.Spreadevenlyoverfruitinpieshell.Coverpiewithplasticwrap.Refrigerateuntilset,atleast3hoursorupto2days.

5.FORTHETOPPING:Whenreadytoserve,fitstandmixerwithwhiskandwhip cream and sugar on medium-low speed until foamy, about 1 minute.Increasespeedtohighandwhipuntilstiffpeaksform,1to3minutes.Spreadorpipeoverchilledfilling.Serve.

TWOLAYERS,TWOTHICKENERS

FORTHEFRUITLAYER:Forthebottomlayer,weusedSure-Jell(pectin)toachieveaconcentratedraspberryflavorandtexture.Therearetwoformulationsof Sure-Jell.We found that the original formulamade the smoothest, thickestbottomlayeroffruit.

FORTHECHIFFONLAYER:Afewtablespoonsofraspberrygelatinmadeforgreatstabilityandcolorinthecreamychiffonlayerandreinforcedtheberryflavor.

ICEBOXSTRAWBERRYPIE


FILLING

2pounds(7cups)frozenstrawberries

1 tablespoonunflavoredgelatin

IceboxStrawberryPieWHY THIS RECIPEWORKS Frozen strawberries, which are great for

cooking, form thebaseofour strawberrypie.Wecooked themdown inadrysaucepanuntiltheyreleasedtheirjuiceandthemixturewasthick,concentrated,andflavorful.Becausestrawberriesarelowinpectin,thenaturalthickenerfoundincitrusfruitsandmanyotherplants,weaddedsomelemonjuice,whichperkeduptheflavorandtightenedthetextureofthefillingalittle.Tothickenthefillingfurther, we added a bit of unflavored gelatin. Then we mixed in freshstrawberriesforafreshfinishwithbig,berryflavor.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES8

YoucanuseClassicSingle-CrustPieDoughorNo-FearSingle-CrustPieDoughfor this pie. In step 2, it is imperative that the cooked strawberry mixturemeasure 2 cups; anymore and the filling will be loose. If your fresh berriesaren’tfullyripe,youmaywanttoaddextrasugartotasteinstep3.


2 tablespoonswater

1cup(7ounces)sugar

Pinchsalt

1poundfreshstrawberries,hulledandslicedthin

TOPPING


3 tablespoonssugar

½


1 cupheavycream

1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 375 degrees. Linechilledcrustwithdoublelayerofaluminumfoilandfillwithpieweights.Bakeuntilpiedoughlooksdryandislightincolor,25to30minutes.Removeweightsand foilandcontinue tobakecrustuntildeepgoldenbrown,10 to12minuteslonger.Letcrustcooltoroomtemperatureonwirerack.

2.FORTHEFILLING:Cookfrozenberriesinlargesaucepanovermedium-lowheat until berries begin to release juice, about 3minutes. Increase heat tomedium-high and cook, stirring frequently, until thick and jamlike, about 25minutes(mixtureshouldmeasure2cups).

3. Sprinkle gelatin over lemon juice andwater in small bowl. Let stand untilgelatin is softened and mixture has thickened, about 5 minutes. Stir gelatinmixture,sugar,andsaltintocookedberrymixtureandreturntosimmer,about2minutes.Transfertobowlandcooltoroomtemperature,about30minutes.

4.Foldfreshberriesintofilling.Spreadevenlyinpieshellandrefrigerateuntilset,about4hours.(Filledpiecanberefrigeratedfor24hours.)

5. FOR THE TOPPING: Using stand mixer fitted with whisk, beat creamcheese, sugar, and vanilla on medium speed until smooth, about 30 seconds.Withmixerrunning,addcreamandwhipuntilstiffpeaksform,about2minutes.Dollopindividualslicesofpiewithtoppingandserve.

DON’TMAKETHISMISTAKE

Instep2,besure toaccuratelymeasure the reducedstrawberrymixture:You’llneedexactly2cups.Scrapethestrawberrymixtureintoalargeliquidmeasuringcup.Ifitmeasuresmorethan2cups,returnittothepantocookdown.Itmayseemfussytostoptomeasure,butthepiewillnotsetorsliceproperlyifyouhavemorethan2cupsofthestrawberrymixture.

MEASUREMETICULOUSLY

FRENCHSILKCHOCOLATEPIE



3 largeeggs

¾ cup(5¼ounces)sugar

2 tablespoonswater

8ouncesbittersweetchocolate,meltedandcooled

FrenchSilkChocolatePie WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS This prize-wining icebox pie with a

sophisticatednameoriginallycalledforraweggs.Testingshowedthatwecouldcooktheeggswithsugaronthestovetop,almostlikemakingacustard.Oncetheegg and sugarmixture was light and thick, we removed it from the heat andcontinuedwhippingituntilitwasfullycooled.Bittersweetchocolatefoldedintothe cooled egg and sugarmixturemade for a piewithmore intense chocolateflavor.Andtolightenthefilling’stexture,weincorporatedwhippedcream.Seethesidebarsthatfollowtherecipe.

SERVES8TO10

YoucanuseClassicSingle-CrustPieDoughorNo-FearSingle-CrustPieDoughforthispie.Servewithlightlysweetenedwhippedcream.


8tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,cutinto½-inchpiecesandsoftened


2.Usingstandmixerfittedwithwhisk,whipcreamonmedium-lowspeeduntilfoamy,about1minute.Increasespeedtohighandwhipuntilstiffpeaksform,1to3minutes.Transferwhippedcreamtosmallbowlandrefrigerate.

3. Combine eggs, sugar, and water in large heatproof bowl set over mediumsaucepanfilledwith½inchbarelysimmeringwater(don’tletbowltouchwater).Using hand-heldmixer set atmedium speed, beat eggmixture until thickenedandregisters160degrees,7to10minutes.Removebowlfromheatandcontinueto beat egg mixture until fluffy and cooled to room temperature, about 8minutes.

4.Addchocolateandvanillatocooledeggmixtureandbeatuntilincorporated.Beatinbutter,fewpiecesatatime,untilwellcombined.Usingspatula,foldinwhippedcreamuntilnostreaksofwhiteremain.Scrapefillingintopieshellandrefrigerateuntilset,atleast3hoursorupto24hours.Serve.

WHISKINGCHOCOLATEINTOSILK

1.Beatingeggsandsugartogetherindoubleboilerincorporatesairandgivesfillinglight,etherealtexture.Wheneggmixturereaches160degrees,itwillbeverythick.Removeitfromheat.

2.Continuebeatingeggmixtureuntilitisfluffyandcool.Thenaddmeltedchocolateandbeatinsoftenedbutterforrichflavorandsilky-smoothtexture.

THEPILLSBURYBAKE-OFF

In1949,GeneralMillslaunchedthe“GrandNationalRecipeandBakingContest”(laterknownasthePillsburyBake-Off). Itwasheldat theposhWaldorf-AstoriaHotel inNewYork.Thegrand-prizewinner(forNo-KneadWaterRisingTwists)broughthome$50,000;EleanorRooseveltwasoneof the luminariesonhand topresent theawards.Since then,manyprize-winningPillsburyrecipeshavebecomepartofourculinaryheritage,among themFrenchSilkChocolatePie (theexoticname reflects the international curiosityof postwarAmerica),OpenSesamePie in1954(which caused a run on sesame seeds nationwide), and Peanut Blossom Cookies (with aHershey’sKissinthemiddle).

CHOCOLATEANGELPIE

FILLING

9ouncesmilkchocolate,choppedfine

5ouncesbittersweetchocolate,choppedfine

3 largeeggyolks

1½

tablespoonsgranulatedsugar

½

teaspoonsalt

ChocolateAngelPieWHYTHISRECIPEWORKSChocolate angelpie is a lavishversionof

chocolatecreampiewithcreamychocolatemousse,fluffywhippedcream,andan airy meringue crust. For a light, crisp crust, 2½ hours in a low oven wasnecessary.Topreventthecrustfromstickingtothepan,wereliedoncornstarch,bothintheeggwhitesanddustedoverthepieplate.Weloadednearlyapoundof chocolate into the filling bymaking a cooked custard. Using two kinds ofchocolate lentdepthandcomplexity.To finish,we topped thepiewith lightlysweetened whipped cream and a sprinkling of cocoa powder for a decadent,supremelychocolatydessert.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

SERVES8TO10

Servetheassembledpiewithin3hoursofchilling.

½ cuphalf-and-half1¼ cupsheavycream,chilled

MERINGUECRUST

1tablespooncornstarch,plusextraforpieplate

½ cup(3½ounces)granulatedsugar

3 largeeggwhites

3 Pinchcreamoftartar

½


TOPPING

1⅓ cupsheavycream,chilled

2tablespoonsconfectioners’sugar

Unsweetenedcocoapowder

1.FORTHEFILLING:Microwavemilkchocolateandbittersweetchocolatein large bowl at 50 percent power, stirring occasionally, until melted, 2 to 4minutes. Whisk egg yolks, sugar, and salt together in medium bowl untilcombined,about1minute.Bringhalf-and-halftosimmerinsmallsaucepanovermedium heat. Whisking constantly, slowly add hot half-and-half to egg yolkmixture in2additionsuntil incorporated.Returnhalf-and-halfmixture tonow-empty saucepan and cook over low heat, whisking constantly, until thickenedslightly,30secondsto1minute.Stirhalf-and-halfmixtureintomeltedchocolateuntilcombined.Letcoolslightly,about8minutes.

2.Usingstandmixerfittedwithwhisk,whipcreamonmedium-lowspeeduntilfoamy,about1minute.Increasespeedtohighandwhipuntilsoftpeaksform,1to 3minutes.Gentlywhisk one-third ofwhipped cream into cooled chocolatemixture.Foldinremainingwhippedcreamuntilnowhitestreaksremain.Coverandrefrigerateforatleast3hours,oruntilreadytoassemblepie.(Fillingcanbemadeupto24hoursinadvance.)3.FORTHEMERINGUECRUST:Adjustovenracktolower-middlepositionandheatovento275degrees.Grease9inchpie plate and dust well with extra cornstarch, using pastry brush to distributeevenly.Combinesugarand1tablespooncornstarchinbowl.Usingstandmixerfittedwithwhisk,whip eggwhites and cream of tartar onmedium-low speeduntilfoamy,about1minute.Increasespeedtomedium-highandwhipwhitestosoft, billowymounds, 1 to 3minutes. Gradually add sugarmixture andwhipuntilglossy,stiffpeaksform,3to5minutes.Addvanillatomeringueandwhipuntilincorporated.

4.Spreadmeringueintopreparedpieplate,followingcontoursofplatetocoverbottom, sides, and edges. Bake for 1½ hours. Rotate pie plate, reduce oventemperature to200degrees, andbakeuntil completelydriedout, about1hourlonger. (Shellwill riseabove rimofpieplate; somecracking isOK.)Letcoolcompletely,about30minutes.

5. FOR THE TOPPING: Spoon cooled chocolate filling into cavity of pieshell,distributingevenly.Usingstandmixerfittedwithwhisk,whipcreamandsugaronmedium-lowspeeduntilfoamy,about1minute.Increasespeedtohighandwhipuntil stiffpeaks form,1 to3minutes.Spreadwhippedcreamevenlyover chocolate. Refrigerate until filling is set, about 1 hour.Dustwith cocoa.

Slicewithsharpknifeandserve.

BUSTEDCRUST

Theeggwhitecrust ispartofwhatdistinguishesangelpie.Toavoidasticky,brokenmeringueshell,weaddedcornstarchtothewhites,andwegreasedthepieplateanddusted itwithmorecornstarch.

MERINGUEMESSDon’tletthishappentoyou.

ShoppingForEquipment

Withawell-stockedkitchen,you’llbeabletotakeonanyrecipe.Butthere’ssomuchequipmentout thereon themarket,howdoyoufigureoutwhat’swhat?Price often correlates with design, not performance. Over the years, our testkitchen has evaluated thousands of products. We’ve gone through copiousroundsoftestingandhaveidentifiedthemostimportantattributesineverypieceof equipment, so when you go shopping you’ll know what to look for. Andbecauseourtestkitchenacceptsnosupportfromproductmanufacturers,youcantrustourratings.Pricesinthischartarebasedonshoppingatonlineretailersandwillvary.SeeAmericasTestKitchen.comforupdatestothesetestings.

KNIVESANDMORE

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AmcoEnameledCitrusSqueezers$11.95,lime$12.95,lemon$15.95,orangePORTIONSCOOP

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Fante’sStainlessPortionScoop#16(2-ounce)$11.99

ICECREAMSCOOP

WHATTOLOOKFORStainlesssteelSlim,comfortablehandleThinbowledgeforeasierscooping


RösleIceCreamScoop$20

MEATPOUNDER

WHATTOLOOKFORAtleast1½poundsinweightVerticalhandleforbetterleverageandcontrol


NorproGrip-EZMeatPounder$17.50

BENCHSCRAPER

WHATTOLOOKFORSturdybladeBevelededgeforeasycuttingandscrapingComfortablehandlewithplastic,rubber,ornylongrip


Dexter-Russell6”DoughCutter/Scraper–Sani-SafeSeries$7

BOWLSCRAPER

WHATTOLOOKFORCurvedshapewithcomfortablegripRigidenoughtomovedoughbutflexibleenoughtoscrapeupbatterThin,straightedgedoublesasdoughcutterorbenchscraper


iSiBasicsSiliconeScraperSpatula$5.99

ROLLING PIN (Must-Have Items)

WHATTOLOOKFORModerateweight(1to1½pounds)19-inchstraightbarrelSlightlytexturedwoodensurfacetogripdoughforeasyrolling


J.K.AdamsPlainMapleRollingDowel$13.95

MIXING BOWLS (Must-Have Items)

WHATTOLOOKFORGoodtohavebothstainlesssteelandglass(formixing,microwaving,andholdingpreppedingredients)Setsof6to9nestingbowlsrangingincapacityfromabout1¼ouncesto4quarts(forglass)and2cupsto8quarts(forstainlesssteel)


Littledifferenceamongvariousbrands

MINIPREPBOWLS

WHATTOLOOKFORSturdyandsomewhatheavybowlstopreventtippingRoomy6-ouncecapacityGlasstoresiststainsandnotabsorbodorsDishwasher-andmicrowave-safe


Pyrex6-OunceDessertDishes,Setof4$6.99

OVEN MITT (Must-Have Items)

WHATTOLOOKFORForm-fittingandnotoverlybulkyforeasymaneuveringMachinewashableFlexible,heat-resistantmaterial


Kool-Tek15-InchOvenMittbyKatchAll$44.95

BestBuy:OrkaPlusSiliconeOvenMittwithCottonLining$14.95

COOKIECUTTERS

WHATTOLOOKFORMetalcuttersThin,sharpcuttingedgeandroundorrubber-griptopDepthofatleast1inch



PASTRYBRUSH

WHATTOLOOKFORSiliconebristles(heat-resistant,durable,andeasytoclean)Perforatedflaps(totrapliquid)AngledheadtoreachtightspotsComfortablehandle


OXOGoodGripsSiliconePastryBrush$6.99

SPLATTERSCREEN

WHATTOLOOKFORDiameterofatleast13inchesLollipop-shapeddesignTightlywovenmeshface


Amco13-InchSplatterScreen$15.95

BOUILLONSTRAINER/CHINOIS

WHATTOLOOKFORConicalshapeDepthof7to8inchesAtleastonehookonrimforstability


WincoReinforcedExtraFineMeshBouillonStrainer$33.78

COLANDER (Must-Have Items)

WHATTOLOOKFOR4-to7-quartcapacityMetalringattachedtobottomforstabilityManyholesforquickdrainingSmallholessopastadoesn’tslipthrough


RSVPInternationalEndurancePrecisionPierced5-QuartColander$25.99

FINE-MESH STRAINER (Must-Have Items)

WHATTOLOOKFORAtleast6inchesindiameter(measuredfrominsideedgetoinsideedge)Sturdyconstruction


CIAMastersCollection6¾InchFineMeshStrainer$27.50

SPIDERSKIMMER

WHATTOLOOKFORLong,angledmetalhandleWovenwirebasketShallow,flatbasketlip


WMFProfiPlus13-cmWokMeshStrainer$18

FOODMILL

WHATTOLOOKFORInterchangeabledisksforfine,medium,andcoarsepureesStainlesssteelEasytoturn


CuisiproStainlessSteelFoodMill$105

FATSEPARATOR

WHATTOLOOKFORPitcher-styleWide-shapedspoutforpouringStrainerforcatchingsolids4-cupcapacity


TrudeauGravySeparatorwithIntegratedStrainer$11.41

POTATO MASHER (Must-Have Items)

WHATTOLOOKFORSolidmashingdiskwithsmallholesComfortablegrip


WMFProfiPlusStainlessSteelPotatoMasher$15.99

SALAD SPINNER (Must-Have Items)

WHATTOLOOKFORErgonomicandeasy-to-operatehandpumpWidebaseforstabilityFlatlidforeasycleaningandstorage


OXOGoodGripsSaladSpinner$29.99

STEAMERBASKET

WHATTOLOOKFORCollapsiblestainlesssteelbasketwithfeetAdjustableandremovablecenterrodforeasyremovalfrompotandeasystorage


OXOGoodGripsPop-UpSteamer$16.99

MORTARANDPESTLE

WHATTOLOOKFORHeavy,stablebasewithtall,narrowwallsRoughinteriortohelpgripandgrindingredientsComfortable,heavypestle


Frieling“Goliath”MortarandPestleSet$49.95

INNOVATIVEMORTARANDPESTLE

WHATTOLOOKFORHeavyceramicballquicklycrushesspicesandgarlicDishwasher-safe


JamieOliverFlavourShaker$29.95

MEASURINGEQUIPMENTDRYMEASURINGCUPS(Must-HaveItems)

WHATTOLOOKFORStainlesssteelcups(heftyanddurable)MeasurementmarkingsthatarevisibleevenoncethecupisfullEvenlyweightedandstableLonghandlesthatarelevelwiththerimofthecup


AmcoHouseworksProfessionalPerformance4-PieceMeasuringCupSet$14.95

LIQUID MEASURING CUPS (Must-Have Items)

WHATTOLOOKFORCrisp,unambiguousmarkingsthatinclude¼and⅓cupmeasurementsHeatproof,sturdycupwithhandleGoodtohaveinavarietyofsizes(1,2,and4cups)


Pyrex2-CupMeasuringCup$5.99

ADJUSTABLEMEASURINGCUP

WHATTOLOOKFORPlungerlikebottom(witha tightsealbetweenplungerand tube) thatyoucan set to correct measurement, then push up to cleanly extract stickyingredients(suchasshorteningorpeanutbutter)1-or2-cupcapacityDishwasher-safe


KitchenArtProAdjustA-Cup$12.95

MEASURING SPOONS (Must-Have Items)

WHATTOLOOKFORLong,comfortablehandlesRimofbowlflushwithhandle(makesiteasyto“dip”intoadryingredientand“sweep”acrossthetopforaccuratemeasuring)Slimdesign


CuisiproStainlessSteelMeasuringSpoonSet$11.95

KITCHEN RULER (Must-Have Items)

WHATTOLOOKFORStainlesssteelandeasytoclean18inchesinlengthLarge,easy-to-readmarkings


Empire18-InchStainlessSteelRuler$8.49

DIGITALSCALE

WHATTOLOOKFOREasy-to-readdisplaynotblockedbyweighingplatformAtleast7-poundcapacityAccessiblebuttonsGram-to-ounceconversionfeatureRoomyplatform


OXOFoodScale$49.99

BestBuy:Soehnle65055DigitalScale$29.75

THERMOMETERSANDTIMERSINSTANT-READTHERMOMETER(Must-HaveItems)

WHATTOLOOKFORDigitalmodelwithautomaticshutoffQuick-responsereadingsin10secondsorlessWidetemperaturerange(-40to450degrees)LongstemthatcanreachinterioroflargecutsofmeatWaterresistant


ThermoWorksSplash-ProofSuper-FastThermapen$96

BestBuys:ThermoWorksSuper-FastPocketThermometer$19

CDNProAccurateQuick-ReadThermometer$16.95

OVEN THERMOMETER (Must-Have Items)

WHATTOLOOKFORClearlymarkednumbersforeasyreadabilityHangmodelorstablebaseLargetemperaturerange(upto600degrees)


Cooper-AtkinsOvenThermometer(model#24HP)$6

CANDYTHERMOMETER

WHATTOLOOKFORDigitalmodelEasy-to-readconsoleMountingclip(toattachprobetothepan)


ThermoworksChefAlarm$59

MEAT-PROBETHERMOMETER

WHATTOLOOKFORLongcordCleardigitaldisplay


ThermoWorksOriginalCookingThermometer/Timer$24

BARBECUETHERMOMETER

WHATTOLOOKFORSimultaneouslychecksfoodandgrilltemperatureEasytoreadHeatprooffinger-gripDishwasher-safe


PolderDualSensorMeatandOvenThermometer$10

REFRIGERATOR/FREEZERTHERMOMETER

WHATTOLOOKFORCleardigitaldisplayWireprobeformonitoringrefrigeratorandfreezersimultaneously


MaverickCold-ChekDigitalRefrigerator/FreezerThermometer$19.99

REMOTETHERMOMETER

WHATTOLOOKFORTemperature probe attached to base that rests outside oven or grill andpagerfornotificationEasytouse


TaylorWirelessThermometerwithRemotePagerPlusTimer$21.95

KITCHEN TIMER (Must-Have Items)

WHATTOLOOKFORLengthytimerange(1secondtoatleast10hours)AbilitytocountupafteralarmgoesoffEasytouseandread


Polder3-in-1Clock,Timer,andStopwatch(model#898-95)$15.12

MULTI-EVENTKITCHENTIMER

WHATTOLOOKFOREasytoreadandsettimersShowsataglancewhichtimerisgoingoffDurable,solidconstruction


AmericanInnovativeChef’sQuadTimer$29.99

BAKEWAREGLASSBAKINGDISH(Must-HaveItems)

WHATTOLOOKFORDimensionsof13by9inchesLargeenoughtoholdcasserolesandlargecrispsandcobblersHandles


PyrexBakeware9×13-InchBakingDish$12.99

BROILER-SAFEBAKINGDISH

WHATTOLOOKFORLarge,easy-to-griphandlesStraightsidesforeasyservingLightweightporcelain


HICPorcelainLasagnaBakingDish$29.95

METAL BAKING PAN (Must-Have Items)

WHATTOLOOKFORDimensionsof13by9inchesStraightsidesNonstick coating for even browning and easy release of cakes and barcookies


Williams-SonomaGoldtouchNonstickRectangularCakePan$32.95

SQUARE BAKING PANS (Must-Have Items)

WHATTOLOOKFORStraightsidesLightgoldordarknonsticksurfaceforevenbrowningandeasyreleaseofcakesGoodtohaveboth9-inchand8-inchsquarepans


Williams-SonomaNonstickGoldtouchSquareCakePan$26,8-inch$27,9-inchBestBuy:ChicagoMetallicGourmetware8-InchNonstickSquareCakePan$6

ROUND CAKE PANS Best all-around (Must-Have Items)

BestforcakeStraightsidesLightfinishfortall,evenbakingNonsticksurfaceforeasyrelease


NordicWareNaturalsNonstick9-inchRoundCakePan$14.32

Best for browning (Must-Have Items)

WHATTOLOOKFORDarkfinishisidealforpizzaandcinnamonbunsNonstick


ChicagoMetallicNonStick9”RoundCakePan$10.97

PIE PLATES (Must-Have Items)

WHATTOLOOKFORGlasspromotesevenbrowningandallowsprogresstobemonitored½-inchrim(makesiteasytoshapedecorativecrusts)ShallowangledsidespreventcrustsfromslumpingGoodtohavetwo


PyrexBakeware9-InchPiePlate$8.16

LOAF PANS (Must-Have Items)

WHATTOLOOKFORLightgoldordarknonsticksurfaceforevenbrowningandeasyreleaseGoodtohaveboth8½by4½-inchand9by5-inchpans


Williams-Sonoma8½×4½-InchNonstickGoldtouchLoafPan$21

BestBuy:Baker’sSecret9×5-InchNonstickLoafPan$5

SPRINGFORMPAN

WHATTOLOOKFORNonstickcoatedbaseTightsealbetweenbandandbottomofpan(preventsleakage)Evenbrowning


NordicWareProForm9-InchLeakProofSpringformPan$15

COOKIESHEET

WHATTOLOOKFORThickaluminumheatsandbrownsevenlyWon’twarpwithrepeateduseRaisededgesforeasymaneuveringNonstick,spacioussurface


VollrathWear-EverCookieSheet(NaturalFinish)$15.99

MUFFIN PAN (Must-Have Items)

WHATTOLOOKFORNonsticksurfaceforevenbrowningandeasyreleaseWide,extendedrimsandraisedlipforeasyhandlingCupcapacityof½cup


WiltonAvantiEverglideMetal-SafeNonstick12-CupMuffinPan$13.99

COOLING RACK (Must-Have Items)

WHATTOLOOKFORGrid-stylerackwithtightlywoven,heavy-gaugebarsShouldfitinsideastandard18by13-inchrimmedbakingsheetDishwasher-safe


CIABakeware12×17-InchCoolingRack$15.95

BestBuy:LibertywareHalf-SizeSheetPanGrate$5.25

BAKER’SCOOLINGRACK

WHATTOLOOKFORSturdyrackFourcollapsibleshelvesUnitfoldsdownforeasystorage


LindenSwedenBaker’sCoolingRack$17.99

BISCUITCUTTERS

WHATTOLOOKFORSharpedgesAsetwithavarietyofsizes


Ateco11-PiecePlainRoundCutterSet$14.99

BUNDTPAN

WHATTOLOOKFORHeavyweightcastaluminumSilverplatinumnonsticksurfaceforevenbrowningandeasyreleaseClearlydefinedridges15-cupcapacity


NordicWareAnniversaryBundtPan(model#50037)$26.95

TARTPAN

WHATTOLOOKFORTinnedsteelforevenbrowningandeasyreleaseRemovablebottomIf you bake a lot, it’s good to have multiple sizes, though 9 inches isstandard


KaiserTinplate9-InchQuichePanwithRemovableBottom$9

TUBEPAN

WHATTOLOOKFORHeavypan(atleast1pound)Heavybottomforleak-freesealDarknonsticksurfaceforevenbrowningandeasyrelease16-cupcapacityFeetonrim


ChicagoMetallicProfessionalNonstickAngelFoodCakePan$19.95

PULLMANLOAFPAN

WHATTOLOOKFORSquared-offpan(4by4inches)NonstickaluminizedsteelforeasycleanupLightsurfaceforevenbrowning


USAPan13by4-inchPullmanLoafPanandCover$33.95

BAKER’SEDGEPAN

WHATTOLOOKFORAttachedcuttinggridDarknonsticksurfaceforeasyrelease


Baker’sEdgeBrowniePan$34.95

RAMEKINS

WHATTOLOOKFORSturdy, high-fired porcelain (chip-resistant and safe for use in oven,broiler,microwave,anddishwasher)Foroneall-purposeset,capacityof6ouncesanddiameterof3inches


Apilco6-OunceRamekins$29forasetoffourBAKINGSTONE

WHATTOLOOKFORSubstantialbutnottooheavytohandleDimensionsof16by14inchesClay,notcement,forevenlybrownedcrusts


TheBaker’sCataloguePizzaBakingStonebyOldStoneOven$54.95

SMALLAPPLIANCESFOODPROCESSOR(Must-HaveItems)

WHATTOLOOKFOR14-cupcapacitySharpandsturdybladesWidefeedtubeShould come with basic blades and discs: steel blade, dough blade,shredding/slicingdisc


CuisinartCustom14-CupFoodProcessor$199

STANDMIXER

WHATTOLOOKFORPlanetaryaction(stationarybowlandsinglemixingarm)PowerfulmotorBowlsizeofatleast4½quartsSlightlysquatbowltokeepingredientsinbeater’srangeShouldcomewithbasicattachments:paddle,doughhook,metalwhisk


KitchenAidProLineSeries7-quartBowlLiftStandMixer$549.95

BestBuy:KitchenAidClassicPlusSeries4.5-quartTilt-HeadStandMixer$229.99

HAND-HELD MIXER (Must-Have Items)

WHATTOLOOKFORLightweightmodelSlimwirebeaterswithoutacentralpostDigitaldisplaySeparateejectorbuttons(notpartofthespeeddial)Varietyofspeeds


CuisinartPowerAdvantage7-SpeedHandMixer$59.95

BLENDER (Must-Have Items)

WHATTOLOOKFORMixofstraightandserratedbladesatdifferentanglesJarwithcurvedbaseAtleast44-ouncecapacityHeavybaseforstability


Vitamix5200$449

BestBuy:BrevilleBBL605XLHemisphereControlBlender$200

IMMERSIONBLENDER

WHATTOLOOKFOREasytooperateandlightweightDetachableshaftforeasycleaningWidebladecagesofoodcancirculate


KitchenAid3-SpeedHandBlender$59.99

ELECTRICGRIDDLE

WHATTOLOOKFORLargecookingarea(about21by12inches)Attachedpull-outgreasetrap(won’ttipover)Nonsticksurfaceforeasycleanup


BroilKingProfessionalGriddle$99.99

ELECTRICJUICER

WHATTOLOOKFORIdealformakingalargeamountoffruitorvegetablejuiceCentrifugal,notmasticating,modelforfresher-tastingjuice3-inch-widefeedtubeEasytoassembleandclean


BrevilleJuiceFountainPlus$149.99

ADJUSTABLEELECTRICKETTLE

WHATTOLOOKFORHeatswatertoarangeofdifferenttemperaturesAutomaticshutoffSeparatebaseforcordlesspouringVisiblewaterlevel


ZojirushiMicomWaterBoiler&Warmer$114.95

BestBuy:Chef’sChoice688ElectricSmartKettle$99.99

COFFEEMAKER

WHATTOLOOKFORThermalcarafethatkeepscoffeehotandfreshwithcapacityofatleast10cupsShortbrewingtime(6minutesisideal)Copper,notaluminum,heatingelementEasy-to-fillwatertankClear,intuitivecontrols


TechnivormMoccamaster10-CupCoffeeMakerwithThermalCarafe$299

BestBuy:Bonavita8-CupCoffeeMaker$149

MEATGRINDER

WHATTOLOOKFORAll-metalmachineMotorizedgrinderwithreversemodeforuncloggingstuckpiecesEasytoassemble


WaringProProfessionalMeatGrinder$199.99

BestBuy:KitchenAidFoodGrinderAttachment$48.74

DEEPFRYER

WHATTOLOOKFORLarge,widebasketensuresevenheatexposureRecoversheatquicklyafterfoodisadded

NOTE:Weprefertodeep-fryinaDutchovenforsuperiortemperaturecontrolandlargercapacity,butadeepfryercanbeusefulforFrenchfriesandotherlow-temperaturefriedfoods.


WaringProProfessionalDeepFryer$139.95

PORTABLEINDUCTIONBURNER

WHATTOLOOKFORLargecookingsurfaceforevenheatingofpansBasicpushbuttonsanddialcontrolsforeaseofuse


MaxBurtonInductionCookTop$124.25

ICECREAMMAKER

WHATTOLOOKFORMinimum1½-quartcapacityRemovablecanisterandbladeforeasycleaning


WhynterSNÖProfessionalIceCreamMaker$330.99

BestBuy:CuisinartAutomaticFrozenYogurt,IceCream,andSorbetMaker(model#ICE-21)$49.95

PRESSURECOOKER

WHATTOLOOKFORStainless steel rather than aluminum for more durable construction thatdoesn’treacttoacidicfoodsStovetopmodelwith lowsides andwidebase for easyaccess andbetterbrowningandheatretentionPressureindicatorthatiseasytoseeandinterpretataglance


FisslerVitaquick8LiterPressureCooker(8.5quart)$280

BestBuy:FagorDuo8-QuartPressureCooker$109.95

SLOWCOOKER

WHATTOLOOKFORAtleast6-quartcapacity(4-quartcapacityforsmallslowcookers)InserthandlesClearlidtoseeprogressoffoodDishwasher-safeinsertIntuitivecontrolswithprogrammabletimerandwarmingmode


Large:Crock-PotCountdownTouchscreenDigitalSlowCooker$129.99

Small:Cuisinart4-QuartCookCentral3-in-1Multicooker$129.95

TWO-SLOTTOASTER

WHATTOLOOKFORQuartzheatingelementforevenheatingClearwindowtomonitorbrowningAmpleroomforlargeorthickbreadslicesorbagels


MagimixbyRobot-CoupeVisionToaster$249.95

BestBuy:KitchenAid2SliceManualHigh-LiftLeverToasterwithLCDDisplay$89.99

TOASTEROVEN

WHATTOLOOKFORQuartzheatingelementsforsteady,controlledheatRoomybutcompactinteriorSimpletouse


TheSmartOvenbyBreville$249.95

BestBuy:HamiltonBeachSet&ForgetToasterOvenwithConvectionCooking$99.99

TABLETOPGRILL

WHATTOLOOKFORLargegrillingareaEasytoclean


DelonghiAlfredoHealthyIndoorGrill$53.99

WAFFLEIRON

WHATTOLOOKFORAudiblealertHeat-resistanthandlesMultipledonenesssettings


Chef’sChoiceWaffleProExpress$69.95

GRILLINGEQUIPMENTGASGRILL

WHATTOLOOKFORLargegrillingarea(atleast350squareinches)Built-inthermometerTwoburnersforvaryingheatlevels(threeisevenbetter)AttachedtableFatdrainagesystem


WeberSpiritE-210$399

CHARCOALGRILL

WHATTOLOOKFORSturdyconstructiontoefficientlymaintainheatWell-designedcookinggrate,handles,lids,andwheelsGenerouscookingsurfaceLargecharcoalcapacityWell-positionedairventsGasignitiontoinstantlyandeasilylightcoalsAshcatcherforeasycleanup


WeberPerformerPlatinum22.5-InchCharcoalGrillwithTouch-n-GoGasIgnition$349

BestBuy:WeberOne-TouchGold22.5-InchCharcoalGrill$149

PORTABLECHARCOALGRILL

WHATTOLOOKFORAmplecookingsurfacewithraisedlipCoverthatcanbesecuredfortravelLightweightbutdurable


WeberSmokeyJoeGoldPortableCharcoalGrill$34.70

SMOKER

WHATTOLOOKFORLargecookingareaWaterpanMultipleventsforprecisetemperaturecontrol


WeberSmokeyMountainCookerSmoker,18½Inch$299

CHIMNEYSTARTER

WHATTOLOOKFOR6-quartcapacityHolesincanistersoaircancirculatearoundcoalsSturdyconstructionHeat-resistanthandleDualhandleforeasycontrol


WeberRapidfireChimneyStarter$14.99

GRILLTONGS

WHATTOLOOKFOR16inchesinlengthScalloped,notsharpandserrated,edgesOpenandcloseeasilyLightweightModerateamountofspringytension


OXOGoodGrips16-InchLockingTongs$14.99

GRILLBRUSH

WHATTOLOOKFORLonghandleReplaceable,long-lastingsteelpadsforscrubbing


GrillWizard18-inchChinaGrillBrush$31.50

GRILLSPATULA

WHATTOLOOKFORHandleatleast12inchesinlengthSharpcuttingedge


WeberOriginalStainlessSteelSpatula$14.99

BASTINGBRUSH

WHATTOLOOKFORSiliconebristlesAngledbrushheadHandlebetween8and13inchesHeat-resistant


ElizabethKarmel’sGrillFriendsSuperSiliconeAngledBarbecueBastingBrush$9.95

BARBECUEGLOVES

WHATTOLOOKFORExcellentheatprotectionGloves,ratherthanmitts,fordexterityLongsleevestoprotectforearms


StevenRaichlenUltimateSuedeGrillingGloves$29.99perpairSKEWERS

WHATTOLOOKFORFlatandmetal3/16inchthick


Norpro12-InchStainlessSteelSkewers$6.85forasetofsixRIBRACK

WHATTOLOOKFORSturdilysupportssixracksofribsDoublesasroastingrack(whenflippedupsidedown)Nonstickcoatingforeasycleanup


CharcoalCompanionNonStickReversibleRoasting/RibRack$14.95

GRILLLIGHTER

WHATTOLOOKFORFlexibleneckRefillablechamberwithlarge,easy-to-readfuelwindowComfortablegrip


ZippoFlexibleNeckUtilityLighter$18.35

ELECTRICCHARCOALSTARTER

WHATTOLOOKFORLong,offsetheatingelementQuick-to-heat


GrillDomeRapid-LiteElectricCharcoalStarters$34.95

DISPOSABLEGRILL

WHATTOLOOKFORKitincludesaluminumpan,metalgrate,andcharcoalLargegrillingarea(about12by10inches)Afteruse,canbethrownawayorrecycled


EZGrillDisposableInstantGrill,Large$10.99

OUTDOORGRILLPAN

WHATTOLOOKFORNarrowslitsandraisedsidessofoodcan’tfallthroughoroffSturdyconstructionwithhandles


WeberStyle6435ProfessionalGradeGrillPan$19.99

ROTISSERIEATTACHMENT

WHATTOLOOKFOREasytoassembleMultiplemeat-stabilizingprongs

NOTE: To ensure it fits, we recommend you purchase a rotisserie attachment from themanufacturerofyourgrill.


Gas:WeberGasBarbecueRotisserie$79.99

Charcoal:WeberKettleRotisserie$119.99

SMOKERBOX

WHATTOLOOKFORCastironforslowheatingandsteadysmokeEasytofill,empty,andclean


GrillProCastIronSmokerBoxmadebyOnwardManufacturingCompany$12.79

WOOD,FORSMOKING

WHATTOLOOKFORHickorywoodforbold,smokyflavorLong-lastingchunksforcharcoalgrillsWoodchipsforgasgrills



VERTICALROASTER

WHATTOLOOKFORHelpspoultrycookevenly8-inchshaftkeepschickenabovefatanddrippingsinpanAttachedbasincatchesdrippingsforpansauceSturdyconstruction


NorproVerticalRoasterwithInfuser$27.95

BestBuy:ElizabethKarmel’sGrillFriendsPorcelainChickenSitterStand,12Inches$11.99

PROPANEINDICATOR

WHATTOLOOKFOREasy-to-readdialAccuratelymeasurespropanebyweight


GrillGaugePropaneTankScale$13.99

SPECIALTYPIECESAPPLECORER

WHATTOLOOKFORComfortablegripSharpteethBladediameteratleast¾inchandlengthatleast3½inches


OXOGoodGripsCorer$6.50

APPLESLICER

WHATTOLOOKFORSharp,serratedcorerwith1-inchdiameterAbilitytocut8or16slicesComfortablehandle


Williams-SonomaDial-a-SliceAppleDivider$19.95

CORNSTRIPPER

WHATTOLOOKFORSaferthanusingchef’sknifeAttachedcuptocatchkernelsComfortablegripandsharpblade


OXOGoodGripsCornStripper$11.99

NUTCHOPPER

WHATTOLOOKFORSharp,sturdystainlesssteelchoppingtinesDishwasher-safe


ProgressiveInternationalHeavyDutyNutChopper$8.89

GRILLPAN

WHATTOLOOKFORCast-ironpanwithenamelcoatingforheatretentionandeasycleanupTallridges(4to5.5mmhigh)tokeepfoodaboverenderedfatGenerouscookingarea


Staub12-InchAmericanSquareGrillPanandPress$219.95

BestBuy:LodgePre-SeasonedSquareGrillPan&RibbedPaniniPress$18.97(presssoldseparatelyfor$14.58)STOVETOPGRIDDLE

WHATTOLOOKFORAnodizedaluminumforevenheatingNonstickcoatingLightweight(about4pounds)Heat-resistantloophandlesAtleast17by9inches(largeenoughtospantwoburners)

Pourspoutfordraininggrease


AnolonAdvancedDoubleBurnerGriddle$48.95

FONDUEPOT

WHATTOLOOKFORFinelyadjustableelectricheatcontrolRemovableinsertforeasycleanup


TrudeauElectric11-Piece3-in-1FondueSet$79.99

OYSTERKNIFE

WHATTOLOOKFORSturdy,flatbladewithslightlycurvedtipforeasypenetrationSlim,nonstickhandleforsecure,comfortablegrip


R.MurphyNewHavenOysterKnife$16.65

SILICONEMICROWAVELID

WHATTOLOOKFORThin, silicone round to cover splatter-prone food during microwaveheatingEasytocleanDoublesasjaropener


PiggySteamer$18

PASTRYBAG

WHATTOLOOKFORPlastic-coated canvas pastry bag (for durability and easy cleanup) ordisposablebagsLargebag(about18inchesinlength)foreasiergrippingandtwistingAccommodatesstandard-sizetips


Ateco18-InchPlastic-CoatedPastryBag$4.45

CHEESEWIRE

WHATTOLOOKFORComfortableplastichandlesNarrowwire


Fante’sHandledCheeseWire$2.99

PIZZAWHEEL

WHATTOLOOKFORClearplasticwheeltopreventdamagetopansComfortable,soft-griphandleThumbguardtoprotectfingers


OXOGoodGrips4-InchPizzaWheelforNonstickPans$11.95

OXOGoodGrips4-InchPizzaWheel$13.50

POTATORICER

WHATTOLOOKFORLargehopperthatcanhold1¼cupsslicedpotatoesInterchangeablefineandcoarsedisksSturdy,ergonomichandles


RSVPInternationalPotatoRicer$13.95

CUPCAKEANDCAKECARRIER

WHATTOLOOKFORFitsbothroundandsquarecakesandcupcakesSnaplocksNonskidbaseCollapsesforeasystorage


ProgressiveCollapsibleCupcakeandCakeCarrier$29.99

CAKELIFTER

WHATTOLOOKFORSturdybutsmallandslightlyflexibleRoundedcornersforvisibilityComfortableoffsethandle


FatDaddio’sCakeLifter$11.88

REVOLVINGCAKESTAND

WHATTOLOOKFORElevatedrotatingstandsoyoucanholdthespatulasteadyforeasyfrosting


AtecoProfessionalIcingTurntable$66.99

BestBuy:AtecoPlasticRevolvingCakeStand$19.95

CREAMWHIPPER

WHATTOLOOKFORSlimcanisterforone-handedsqueezingSlendermetaltiptomakerosettesandmounds


LissProfessionalPolishedStainlessSteelCreamWhipper(1-pint)$149.95

SPICE/COFFEEGRINDER

WHATTOLOOKFORElectric,notmanual,grindersDeepbowltoholdampleamountofcoffeebeansEasy-to-controltextureofgrindGoodtohavetwo,oneeachforcoffeegrindingandspicegrinding


KrupsFast-TouchCoffeeMill$19.99

TEAPOT

WHATTOLOOKFORContainedultrafine-meshstrainerkeepstealeafdregsseparateOne-piecedesignforeasycleaning


AdagioTeasIngenuiTEA$14.95

TRAVELMUG

WHATTOLOOKFORSimple,leakproofliddesignGoodheatretentionEasy-to-cleananddishwashersafe


TimolinoIcon16-OuncesSignatureVacuumTravelMug$28

WINEOPENER

WHATTOLOOKFOREasy-to-gripchromebodyHingedfulcrumforleverageTeflon-coatedwormwithzerofriction


Pulltap’sClassicEvolutionCorkscrewbyPulltex$39.95

ELECTRICWINEOPENER

WHATTOLOOKFORSturdy,quietcorkscrewBroadbasethatrestsfirmlyonbottle


WaringProProfessionalCordlessWineOpener$39.95

WINEAERATOR

WHATTOLOOKFORLong,tubelikedesignthatexposeswinetoairasitisbeingpouredNeat,hands-freeaerating


NuanceWineFiner$49.95

COCKTAILSHAKER

WHATTOLOOKFORDouble-walledcanistertopreventcondensationforslip-freegrippingConvenientpop-upspoutTight-sealinglid


MetrokaneFliptopCocktailShaker$29.95

BEERSAVERS

WHATTOLOOKFORFitbothglassandplasticbottlesPreservecarbonationforupto48hours


SavebrandsBeerSavers$6.99forsix-pack

COOLER

WHATTOLOOKFORInsulatinglayerofplasticliningLightweight,durable,sturdy,andeasytomove,evenwhenfullEasytoclean


CaliforniaCoolerBagsT-RexLargeCollapsibleRollingCooler$75

SELTZERMAKER

WHATTOLOOKFOREasytouseandeasytocontrolleveloffizzLargecharger(producingabout60litersofseltzer)


PenguinStarterKitbySodaStream$199.95

VACUUMSEALER

WHATTOLOOKFORThick,strongplastictokeepfoodsealedandfrost-freeRollsofplasticforcustom-sizebagsCountertop,heat-sealedmodels


PragotradeVacuumSealerPro2300$469.95

BestBuy:FoodSaverV2450VacuumSealerKit$99.99

COMPOSTBUCKET

WHATTOLOOKFORPlasticpailtocollectfoodscrapsforcomposterCarbonfilterpreventsodorsfromescapingandallowsoxygentoentersodecompositioncanoccurEasytoopenlidthatlatchessecurelyinplace2.4-galloncapacity


ExacoTradingKitchenCompostWasteCollector$19.98

FIREEXTINGUISHER

WHATTOLOOKFOREasytooperatePowerful,controlledspray


KiddeKitchenFireExtinguisher(model#21005753/FX10K)$18.97

KITCHENSUPPLIESPARCHMENTPAPER(Must-HaveItems)

WHATTOLOOKFORSturdypaperforheavydoughsEasyreleaseofbakedgoodsAtleast14incheswide


ReynoldsParchmentPaper$2.50

PLASTIC WRAP (Must-Have Items)

WHATTOLOOKFORClingstightlyandrestickswellPackagingwithsharpteeththataren’texposed(toavoidsnagsonclothingandskin)Adhesivepadtoholdcutendofwrap


GladClingWrapClearPlastic$2.59

BUTTERSAVER

WHATTOLOOKFORFitstheendofstandard-sizestickofbutterKeptbutterfrompickingupoff-flavorsformorethanaweekMeasures1tablespoon


SavebrandsButterSaver$4.99

PAPERPLATES

WHATTOLOOKFORLargesurfaceareaSturdyenoughtosupportheavyfoodPlastic-coatedtorepelgreaseandmoisture


VanityFairImpressionsDinnerPlates,11Inches$3.79for14platesFOODSTORAGECONTAINER

WHATTOLOOKFORSnap-stylesealwithridgeonundersidetoensuretightsealLow,flatrectangleforeasystorageandmoreefficientheatingandchillingMadeofplasticfreeofBPA(bisphenol-A)


SnapwareAirtight8-CupRectangleFoodStorageContainer$7.99

DISHTOWEL

WHATTOLOOKFORThincottonforabsorbencyandflexibilityDriesglasswarewithoutsteaksWashescleanwithoutshrinking


Williams-SonomaStripedTowels$19.95forsetof4

APRONS

WHATTOLOOKFORAdjustableneckstrapandlongstringsFullcoverage;chestareareinforcedwithextralayeroffabricStainswashoutcompletely


BragardTravailApron$26.95

LIQUIDDISHDETERGENT

WHATTOLOOKFORHighconcentrationofsurfactantstowashawayoilCleanscent


Mrs.Meyer’sCleanDayLiquidDishSoap,Lavender$3.99for16fluidounces(25centsperounce)

StockingYourPantry

Using thebest ingredients isoneway toguarantee success in thekitchen.Buthow do you know what to buy? Shelves are filled with a dizzying array ofchoices—and price does not equal quality. Over the years, the test kitchen’sblind tasting panels have evaluated thousands of ingredients, brand by brand,sidebyside,plainandinpreparedapplications,todeterminewhichbrandsyoucan trust and which brands to avoid. In the chart that follows, we share theresults, revealingour top-ratedchoicesand theattributes thatmade themstandout among the competition. And because our test kitchen accepts no supportfrom product manufacturers, you can trust our ratings. SeeAmericasTestKitchen.comforupdatestothesetastings.

http://AmericasTestKitchen.com

ANCHOVIES

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

OrtizOil-PackedSpanish

WHYWELIKEITPleasantlyfishy,saltyflavor,notoverwhelmingorbland

Firm,meatytexture,notmushy

Alreadyfilletedandreadytouse,unlikesalt-packedvariety

RUNNERS-UP

FlottSalt-Packed

APPLESAUCE

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Musselman’sLite

WHYWELIKEITAn unusual ingredient, sucralose, sweetens this applesauce without overpowering its

fresh,brightappleflavor

Pinchofsaltboostsflavoraboveweak,bland,andtoo-sweetcompetitors

Coarse,almostchunkytexture,notslimylikeapplesaucessweetenedwithcornsyrup

RUNNERS-UP

Musselman’sHomeStyle

BACON,SUPERMARKET

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

FarmlandThickSlicedSmoked

WHYWELIKEITGoodbalanceofsaltinessandsweetness

Smokyandfullflavored,notone-dimensional

Verymeaty,nottoofattyorinsubstantial

Crispyetheartytexture,nottoughordry

RUNNERS-UP

Boar’s Head Brand Naturally Smoked Sliced and Hormel Black Label Original BARBECUESAUCE

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Bull’s-EyeOriginal

WHYWELIKEITSpicy,freshtomatotaste

Goodbalanceoftanginess,smokiness,andsweetness

Robustflavorfrommolasses

Sweetenedwithsugarandmolasses,nothigh-fructosecornsyrup,whichcaramelizesand

burnsquickly

BEANS,CANNEDBAKED

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

B&MVegetarian

WHYWELIKEITFirmandpleasanttexturewithsomebite

Sweetenedwithmolassesforcomplexityanddepth

RUNNERS-UP

Bush’sBestOriginalandVanCamp’sOriginalBEANS,CANNEDBLACK

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Bush’sBest

WHYWELIKEITClean,mild,andslightlyearthyflavor

Firm,almostaldentetexture,notmushyorpasty

Goodamountofsalt

RUNNERS-UP

GoyaandProgresso

BEANS,CANNEDCHICKPEAS

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Pastene

WHYWELIKEITFirmyettendertexturebestspastyanddrycompetitors

Cleanchickpeaflavor

Enoughsalttoenhancebutnotoverwhelmtheflavor

RUNNERS-UP

Goya

BEANS,CANNEDREDKIDNEY

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Goya

WHYWELIKEITSweetwithstrongbeanflavor

Beautifulred,plumpbeans

Smooth,creamytexture,notmushy,chalky,ortoofirm

Flavorboostfromaddedsugarandsalt

RUNNERS-UP

S&W

BEANS,CANNEDWHITE

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

GoyaCannellini

WHYWELIKEITClean,earthyflavor

Smooth,creamyinteriorwithtenderskins

Notfullofbrokenbeanslikesomecompetitors

RUNNERS-UP

Bush’sBestCannelliniBeansWhiteKidneyBeansBEANS,REFRIED

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

TacoBellHomeOriginals

WHYWELIKEITWell-seasonedmixture

Super-smoothtexture,notoverlythick,pasty,orgluey

RUNNERS-UP

GoyaTraditionalRefriedPintoBeansandOldElPasoBREAD,MULTIGRAIN

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Nature’sOwnSpecialty12Grain

WHYWELIKEITSubstantial,chewyslices

Nutty,heartyseedsthroughoutandtoppedwithrolledoats

Usesnowhiteflour

RUNNERS-UP

Arnold12Grain,PepperidgeFarm15Grain

BREAD,WHITESANDWICH

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

ArnoldCountryClassics

WHYWELIKEITSubtlesweetness,nottastelessorsour

Perfectstructure,nottoodryortoosoft

RUNNERS-UP

PepperidgeFarmFarmhouseHeartyWhite

BREAD,WHOLE-WHEATSANDWICH

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

PepperidgeFarm100%WholeWheat

WHYWELIKEITWhole-grain,nutty,earthyflavor

Dense,chewytexture,notgummyortoosoft

Nottoosweet,containsnocornsyrupandhaslowsugarlevel(unlikecompetitors)

RUNNERS-UP

Rudi’sOrganicBakeryHoneySweetWholeWheatNOTE:AvailableonlyeastoftheMississippiRiver.

BREADCRUMBS,PANKO

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Ian’sPanko

WHYWELIKEITCrisp,withasubstantialcrunch

Nottoodelicate,stale,sandy,orgritty

Oil-freeandwithoutseasoningsorundesirableartificialflavors

BROTH,BEEF

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Rachael Ray Stockin-a-Box All-Natural Beef Flavored Stock

WHYWELIKEITDeepbeefyprofilewithrichnotesandgelatin-likebody

Flavor-enhancingingredientssuchastomatopasteandyeastextract

RUNNERS-UP

CollegeInnBoldStockTenderBeefFlavor

BROTH,CHICKEN

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

SwansonChickenStock

WHYWELIKEITStrongchickenflavor,notwatery,beefy,orvegetal

Heartyandpleasantaroma

Roastednotes,notsour,rancid,orsaltylikesomecompetitors

Flavor-boostingingredientsincludecarrots,celery,andonions

RUNNERS-UP

BetterThanBouillonChickenBase

BROTH,VEGETABLE

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

SwansonVegetarian

WHYWELIKEITBalancedvegetableflavorwithcarrotandcelerynuances

Highconcentrationofvegetableproductnotfoundincompetitors

Highsodiumcontentenhancesvegetableflavors

NOTE:Despitethisbroth’shighconcentrationofartificialadditivesandsalt,itistheonlybrothwefoundwithacceptableflavor.

BROWNIEMIX

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

GhirardelliChocolateSupreme

WHYWELIKEITRich,balancedchocolateflavorfrombothnaturalandDutch-processedcocoa

Moist,chewy,andfudgywithperfecttexture

RUNNERS-UP

BarefootContessaOutrageous

BUTTER,UNSALTED

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

PlugráEuropean-Style

WHYWELIKEITSweetandcreamy

Complextangandgrassyflavor

Moderateamountofbutterfatso that it’sdecadentandglossybutnotsorich thatbaked

goodsaregreasy

RUNNERS-UP

LandO’LakesandVermontCreameryEuropean-StyleCHEESE,AMERICAN,PRESLICED

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

LandO’Lakes

WHYWELIKEITStrongcheesyflavor,unlikesomecompetitors

Slightlyrubberybutpleasantlygooeywhenmelted

Highercontentofcheeseculturecontributestobetterflavor

RUNNERS-UP

KraftDeliDeluxeWhite

CHEESE,ASIAGO

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

BelGioioso

WHYWELIKEITSharp,tangy,andcomplexflavor,notmild

Firmandnottoodry

Melts,shreds,andgrateswell

CHEESE,BLUE

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Fordressingsanddips:Stella

WHYWELIKEITSweet,balanced,andmildflavor,nottoopungent

Wetandextremelycrumblytexturesimilartofeta

RUNNERS-UP

DanishBlue

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Foreatingoutofhand:Stilton

WHYWELIKEITBalanceofbuttery,nutty,sweet,andsaltyflavors

Fairlyfirmwithsliceableyetcrumblytexture

RUNNERS-UP

Roquefort

CHEESE,CHEDDAR,EXTRA-SHARP

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

CabotPrivateStock

WHYWELIKEITBalanceofsalty,creamy,andsweetflavors

Considerablebutwell-roundedsharpness,notoverwhelming

Firm,crumblytexture,notmoist,rubbery,orspringy

Agedatleast12monthsforcomplexflavor

RUNNERS-UP

Cabot Extra-Sharp, Grafton Village Cheese Company Premium, Cabot Sharp, and TillamookSpecialReserve

CHEESE,CHEDDAR,PRESLICED

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

TillamookSharp

WHYWELIKEITSlightlycrumbly,notrubberyorprocessed,texturecharacteristicofblockcheddar

Strong,tangy,andsaltyflavor,notblandortoomild

RUNNERS-UP

CabotAllNaturalSharpandCrackerBarrelNaturalSharpCHEESE,CHEDDAR,PREMIUM

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

MiltonCreameryPrairieBreeze

WHYWELIKEITEarthycomplexitywithnutty,buttery,andfruityflavors

Dryandcrumblywithcrystallinecrunch,notrubberyoroverlymoist

Agednomorethan12monthstopreventoverlysharpflavor

RUNNERS-UP

Cabot Clothbound, Tillamook Vintage White Extra Sharp, and Beecher’s Flagship ReserveCHEESE,CHEDDAR,REDUCED-FAT

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

CrackerBarrelReducedFatSharp

WHYWELIKEITAmplecreaminess

Strongcheesyflavor

Goodforcooking

RUNNERS-UP

Cabot50%LightSharp

CHEESE,CHEDDAR,SHARP

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

CabotSharpVermont

WHYWELIKEITSharp,clean,andtangyflavor

Firm,crumblytexture,notmoist,rubbery,orspringy

Agedaminimumof12monthsforcomplexflavor

RUNNERS-UP

TillamookSharp,CrackerBarrelSharpWhite,andGraftonVillageCheeseCompanyCHEESE,COTTAGE

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

HoodCountryStyle

WHYWELIKEITRich,well-seasoned,andbutteryflavor

Velvety,creamytexture

Pillowycurds

RUNNERS-UP

Friendship4%CaliforniaStyleandBreakstone’s4%SmallCurdCHEESE,CREAM

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Philadelphia

WHYWELIKEITRich,tangy,andmilkyflavor

Thick,creamytexture,notpasty,waxy,orchalky

RUNNERS-UP

OrganicValley

CHEESE,FETATESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Mt.VikosTraditionalFeta

WHYWELIKEITStrongtangy,saltyflavor

Creamy,densetexture

Pleasingcrumblytexture

RUNNERS-UP

ValbresoFeta

CHEESE,FONTINATESTKITCHENFAVORITE

For eating out of hand: Fontina Val d’Aosta

WHYWELIKEITStrong,earthyaroma

Somewhatelastictexturewithsmallirregularholes

Grassy,nuttyflavor—butcanbeoverpoweringincookeddishes

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Forcooking:BelGioioso

WHYWELIKEITSemisoft,super-creamytexture

Mildlytangy,nuttyflavor

Meltswell

CHEESE,GOAT

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

LauraChenel’sChèvre

WHYWELIKEITRich-tasting,grassy,tangyflavor

Smoothandcreamybothunheatedandbaked

Highsaltcontent

RUNNERS-UP

VermontCreamery,Chevrion,CypressGrove

CHEESE,GRUYèRE

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Gruyère Reserve Wheel (Peney-Le-Jorat)

WHYWELIKEITGrassy,saltyflavor,notblandorpedestrian

Creamyyetdrytexture,notplastickylikesomecompetitors

Agedaminimumof10monthsforstrongandcomplexflavor

Meltsespeciallywell

RUNNERS-UP

GruyèreSalé

CHEESE,MOZZARELLATESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Galbani (formerly Sorrento) Whole Milk

WHYWELIKEITCreamyandbutterywithcleandairyflavor

Soft,notrubbery,chew

RUNNERS-UP

KraftLow-MoisturePartSkim,Boar’sHeadWhole-MilkLowMoisture,andKraftShreddedLow-MoisturePart-Skim

CHEESE,PARMESAN

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Boar’sHeadParmigiano-Reggiano

WHYWELIKEITRichandcomplexflavorbalancestanginessandnuttiness

Dry,crumblytextureyetcreamywithacrystallinecrunch,notrubberyordense

Agedaminimumof12monthsforbetterflavorandtexture

RUNNERS-UP

IlVillagioParmigiano-ReggianoandBelGioiosoCHEESE,PEPPERJACK

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Boar’s Head Monterey Jack Cheese with Jalapeño

WHYWELIKEITButtery,tangycheese

Clean,balancedflavorwithassertivespice

RUNNERS-UP

TillamookPepperJackCheese

CHEESE,PROVOLONE

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

ProvoloneVernengo

WHYWELIKEITBold,nutty,andtangyflavor,notplastickyorbland

Firm,drytexture

RUNNERS-UP

BelGioiosoSlicedMild

CHEESE,RICOTTA,PART-SKIM

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Calabro

WHYWELIKEITClean,freshflavor,notrancidorsourfromadditionofgumsorstabilizers

Creamytexturewithperfectcurds,unlikechalky,grainy,andsoggycompetitors

RUNNERS-UP

FreshlymadericottacheesewithoutgumsorstabilizersCHEESE,SWISS

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

For cheese plate: Edelweiss Creamery Emmenthaler

WHYWELIKEITSubtleflavorwithsweet,buttery,nutty,andfruitynotes

Firmyetgentlygivingtexture,notrubbery

Agedlongerforbetterflavor,resultinginlargereyes

Mildlypungentyetbalanced

RUNNERS-UP

EmmiKaltbach

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Forcheeseplateorcooking:EmmiEmmenthalerCheeseAOC

WHYWELIKEITCreamytexture

Saltymildnesspreferableforgrilledcheesesandwiches

RUNNERS-UP

Forcookingonly:Boar’sHeadGoldLabelImportedCHICKEN,WHOLE

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Mary’sFreeRangeAir-Chilled

WHYWELIKEITGreat,savorychickenflavor

Verytender

Air-chilledforminimumwaterretentionandcleanerflavor

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Bell & Evans Air-Chilled Premium Fresh

WHYWELIKEITFirmandtendertexture

Fullchickenflavor

Moistandjuicy

CHICKEN,BREASTS,BONELESSSKINLESS

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Bell&EvansAir-Chilled

WHYWELIKEITJuicyandtenderwithcleanchickenflavor

Notsaltedorbrined

Air-chilled

Agedonboneforatleastsixhoursafterslaughterforsignificantlymoretendermeat

RUNNERS-UP

SpringerMountainFarmsandEberly’sFreeRangeYoungOrganicCHILIPOWDER

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Morton&Bassett

WHYWELIKEITBold,full-flavoredheat

Multidimensionalflavorfromablendofcayenneandotherchiles

Spicesthatcomplementbutdon’toverwhelmthechiles

RUNNERS-UP

PenzeysSpices

CHOCOLATE,DARK

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Ghirardelli 60% Cacao Bittersweet Chocolate Premium Baking Bar

WHYWELIKEITCreamytexture,notgrainyorchalky

Complexflavorwithnotesofcherryandwinewithslightsmokiness

Balanceofsweetnessandbitterness

RUNNERS-UP

CallebautIntenseDarkL-60-40NV(60%Cacao)CHOCOLATE,MILK

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

DoveSilkySmooth

WHYWELIKEITIntense,full,richchocolateflavor

Super-creamytexturefromabundantmilkfatandcocoabutter

Notoverwhelminglysweet

RUNNERS-UP

Endangered Species All-Natural Smooth and Green & Black’s Organic CHOCOLATE, MILK

CHIPS

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Hershey’s

WHYWELIKEITBoldchocolateflavoroutshinestoo-sweet,weakchocolateflavorofotherchips

Complexwithcaramelandnuttynotes

Higherfatcontentmakestexturecreamierthangrainy,artificialcompetitors

CHOCOLATE,DARKCHIPS

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Ghirardelli60%CacaoBittersweet

WHYWELIKEITIntense,complexflavorbeatsone-dimensionalflavorofcompetitors

Lowsugarcontenthighlightschocolateflavor

Highamountofcocoabutterensurescreamy,smoothtexture,notgrittyandgrainy

Wider,flattershapeandhighpercentageoffathelpchipsmeltbetterincookies

RUNNERS-UP

Hershey’sSpecialDarkMildlySweet

CHOCOLATE,UNSWEETENED

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Hershey’sUnsweetenedBakingBar

WHYWELIKEITWell-rounded,complexflavor

Assertivechocolateflavoranddeepnotesofcocoa

RUNNERS-UP

Valrhona Cacao Pate Extra 100% and Scharffen Berger Unsweetened Dark CHOCOLATE,WHITECHIPS

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

GuittardChoc-Au-Lait

WHYWELIKEITCreamytexture,notwaxyorcrunchy

Silkysmoothmeltabilityfromhighfatcontent

Complexflavorlikehigh-qualityrealchocolate,noartificialoroff-flavors

RUNNERS-UP

GhirardelliClassicWhite

CINNAMON

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

PenzeysExtraFancyVietnameseCassia

WHYWELIKEITWarm,fragrantaromawithclove,fruity,andslightlysmokyflavors

Mellowstartwithspicyfinish

Strongyetnotoverpowering

Notharsh,bitter,dusty,orgritty

RUNNERS-UP

Smith andTruslowFreshlyGroundOrganic andAdamsGroundNOTE:Available throughmailorder,Penzeys(800-741-7787,www.penzeys.com).

http://www.penzeys.com

COCOAPOWDER

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Hershey’sNaturalUnsweetened

WHYWELIKEITFull,strongchocolateflavor

Complexflavorwithnotesofcoffee,cinnamon,orange,andspice

RUNNERS-UP

Droste

COCONUTMILK

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Forsavoryrecipes:Chaokoh

WHYWELIKEITStrongcoconutflavor

Smoothandcreamytexturesuperiortocompetitors

Notverysweet,idealforsavoryrecipeslikesoupsandstir-fries

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Forsweetrecipes:Ka-Me

WHYWELIKEITRich,velvetytexture,nottoothinorwatery

Fruityandcomplexflavor,notmildorbland

Idealsweetnessfordesserts

COFFEE,WHOLEBEAN,SUPERMARKET

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Dark roast: Millstone Colombian Supremo

WHYWELIKEIT

Deep, complex, and balanced flavor without metallic, overly acidic, or otherwise

unpleasantnotes

Smokyandchocolatywithabitter,notburnt,finish

RUNNERS-UP

StarbucksCoffeeHouseBlend

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Medium roast: Peet’s Coffee Café Domingo

WHYWELIKEITExtremelysmoothbutbold-tastingwithastrongfinish

Richchocolateandtoastflavors

Fewdefectivebeans,lowacidity,andoptimalmoisture

RUNNERS-UP

MillstoneBreakfastBlend

COFFEE,DECAF

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

MaxwellHouseDecafOriginalRoast

WHYWELIKEITSmooth,mellowflavorwithoutbeingacidicorharsh

Complex,withaslightlynuttyaftertaste

MadewithonlyflavorfulArabicabeans

RUNNERS-UP

Peet’sDecafHouseBlendGroundandStarbucksCoffeeDecafHouseBlendCORNMEAL

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

ArrowheadMillsWholeGrain

WHYWELIKEIT

Clean,purecornflavorcomesfromusingwhole-grainkernels

Idealtextureresemblingslightlydamp,finesand,nottoofineortoocoarse

CURRYPOWDER

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

PenzeysSweet

WHYWELIKEITBalanced,neithertoosweetnortoohot

Complexandvividearthyflavor,notthin,bland,orone-dimensional

NOTE:Availablethroughmailorder,Penzeys(800-741-7787,www.penzeys.com).


DINNERROLLS,FROZEN

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Pillsbury Oven Baked Dinner Rolls/Crusty French

WHYWELIKEITFluffyinsideswithcrispycrusts

Closetohomemadetexture

EGGWHITES,PROCESSED

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Eggology100%EggWhites

WHYWELIKEITWorkwellineggwhiteomelets

Pasteurized;safeforuseinuncookedapplications

Makesatisfactorybakedgoods

FIVE-SPICEPOWDER

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

FrontierNaturalProductsCo-op

WHYWELIKEITNicedepth,notone-dimensional

Balancedheatandsweetness

RUNNERS-UP

DynastyChineseFiveSpices,McCormickGourmetCollectionChinesFiveSpice,Dean&DeLucaFiveSpiceBlend,andMorton&BassettChineseFiveSpiceFLOUR,ALL-PURPOSE

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

KingArthurUnbleached

WHYWELIKEITFresh,toastyflavor

Nometallictasteorotheroff-flavors

Consistentresultsacrossrecipes

Madetender,flakypiecrust,heartybiscuits,crispcookies,andchewy,sturdybread

RUNNERS-UP

Gold Medal Enriched Bleached Presifted, Gold Medal Unbleached, and Heckers/CeresotaUnbleachedEnrichedPresifted

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

PillsburyUnbleachedEnriched

WHYWELIKEITClean,toasty,andheartyflavor

Nometallicorotheroff-flavors

Consistentresultsacrossrecipes

Madeflakypiecrust,chewycookies,andtenderbiscuits,muffins,andcakes

FLOUR,WHOLE-WHEAT

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

KingArthurPremium

WHYWELIKEITFinelygroundforheartybutnotoverlycoarsetextureinbreadandpancakes

Sweet,nuttyflavor

RUNNERS-UP

Bob’sRedMillOrganic

FRENCHFRIES,FROZEN

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

AlexiaOrganicYukonSelectFries

WHYWELIKEITCrispyexteriorswithfluffy,creamyinteriors

Earthy,potato-yflavor

RUNNERS-UP

Ore-IdaGoldenFries

GIARDINIERATESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Pastene

WHYWELIKEITSharp,vinegarytang

Crunchymixofvegetables

Mellowheatthat’spotentbutnotoverpowering

RUNNERS-UP

ScalaHot

GNOCCHITESTKITCHENFAVORITE

GiaRussaGnocchiwithPotato

WHYWELIKEITTender,pillowliketexture

Nicepotatoflavor

Slightlysourtastethatdisappearswhenpairedwithtomatosauce

RUNNERS-UP

DeCecco

GRITS

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

AnsonMills

WHYWELIKEITFull,ripe,freshcornflavor

Nicechewwhilestillthickandcreamy

RUNNERS-UP

ArrowheadMills,Bob’sRedMill

HAM,BLACKFORESTDELITESTKITCHENFAVORITE

ForCooking:Dietz&Watson

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

For Eating on Its Own: Abraham’s Black Forest Prosciutto Ham

WHYWELIKEITGoodtexture

Nicehamflavor

Concentrated,silkytexture

Intensehamflavorwithboldsmokiness

HAM,COUNTRY

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Harper’s Grand Champion Whole Country Ham

WHYWELIKEITAged3to6months

Porkyandcomplex,withrobustflavorandbalancedsaltlevels

Availableonlineorinsomesouthernsupermarkets

RUNNERS-UP

Burgers’ Smokehouse Ready to Cook Country Ham; Edwards Virginia Traditions UncookedVirginiaHam

HAM,SPIRAL-SLICED,HONEY-CURED

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Cook’s Spiral Sliced Hickory Smoked Honey

WHYWELIKEITGoodbalanceofsmokiness,saltiness,andsweetness

Moist,tenderyetfirmtexture,notdryortoowet

Clean,meatyhamflavor

HOISINSAUCE

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Kikkoman

WHYWELIKEITBalancessweet,salty,pungent,andspicyflavors

Initialburnmellowsintoharmoniousandaromaticblendwithoutbitterness

HORSERADISH

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Boar’sHeadPureHorseradish

WHYWELIKEITNopreservatives,justhorseradish,vinegar,andsalt(foundinrefrigeratedsection)

Naturalflavorandhotwithoutbeingoverpowering

RUNNERS-UP

Ba-TamptePreparedHorseradish

HOTDOGS

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Nathan’sFamousBeefFranks

WHYWELIKEITMeaty,robust,andheartyflavor,notsweet,sour,ortoosalty

Juicybutnotgreasy

Firm,craggytexture,notrubbery,mushy,orchewy

RUNNERS-UP

HebrewNationalBeefFranks

HOTFUDGESAUCE

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Hershey’sHotFudgeTopping

WHYWELIKEITTruefudgeflavor,notweakoroverlysweet

Thick,smooth,andbutterytexture

HOTSAUCE

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Huy Fong Sriracha Hot Chili Sauce and Frank’s RedHot Original

WHYWELIKEITRightcombinationofpunchyheat,saltiness,sweetness,andgarlic

Full,richflavor

Mildheatthat’snottoohot

RUNNERS-UP

OriginalLouisiana,TapatioSalsaPicante

ICECREAMBARS

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Dove Bar Vanilla Ice Cream with Milk Chocolate

WHYWELIKEITRich,prominentchocolateflavor

Thick,crunchychocolatecoating

Dense,creamy,icecreamwithpurevanillaflavor

Milkchocolate,notcoconutoil,listedfirstincoatingingredients

RUNNERS-UP

Häagen-DazsVanillaMilkChocolateAllNatural,BlueBunnyBigAlaska,andGoodHumorMilkChocolate

ICECREAMCONES

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

JoyClassicWaffleCones

WHYWELIKEITLightlysweet,withvanilla,toasty,andnuttyflavors

Crunchyandcrispbutnotoverlyhard

Individualpaperjacketskeepthingsneat

RUNNERS-UP

JoySugarCones,KeeblerWaffleCones,KeeblerSugarCones,Comet(Nabisco)SugarCones

ICECREAM,CHOCOLATE

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Ben&Jerry’s

WHYWELIKEITDeep,concentratedchocolateflavor,nottoolightorsweet

Denseandcreamytexture

RUNNERS-UP

Friendly’sRich&CreamyClassicChocolateIceCreamICECREAM,VANILLATESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Ben&Jerry’s

WHYWELIKEITComplexyetbalancedvanillaflavorfromrealvanillaextract

Sweetnesssolelyfromsugar,ratherthancornsyrup

Creamyrichnessfrombotheggyolksandsmallamountofstabilizers

RUNNERS-UP

Häagen-DazsVanilla

ICEDTEATESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Looseleaf:

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

TazoIcedBlackTea

WHYWELIKEITDistinctiveflavorwithherbalnotes

Balancedlevelofstrengthandastringency

RUNNERS-UP

LuzianneandTetleyPremiumBlend

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Bottled, with lemon: Lipton PureLeaf

WHYWELIKEITBright,balanced,andnaturalteaandlemonflavors

Usesconcentratedtealeavestoextractflavor

RUNNERS-UP

GoldPeak

JUICE,FROZENORANGECONCENTRATE

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Minute Maid Original Frozen Concentrated Orange Juice

WHYWELIKEITFull-bodiedorangeflavor

Goodtexture,includessomepulp

RUNNERS-UP

Tropicana100%JuiceFrozenConcentratedOrangeJuiceKETCHUP

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

HeinzOrganic

WHYWELIKEITClean,puresweetnessfromsugar,nothigh-fructosecornsyrup

Bold,harmoniouspunchofsaltiness,sweetness,tang,andtomatoflavor

RUNNERS-UP

Hunt’sandSimplyHeinz

LEMONADE

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Natalie’sNaturalLemonade

WHYWELIKEITNatural-tasting lemon flavor from20percent real lemon juice,without artificial flavorsor

off-notes

Perfectbalanceoftartnessandsweetness,unlikemanyoverlysweetcompetitors

RUNNERS-UP

SimplyLemonadeandMinuteMaidPremiumFrozenConcentrateMACARONI&CHEESE

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

KraftHomestyleClassicCheddar

WHYWELIKEITReinforcesflavorwithblueandcheddarcheeses

Usescreamy,clingyliquidcheesesauce

Drynoodles,ratherthanfrozen,forsubstantialtextureandbite

Crunchy,butterybreadcrumbtopping

RUNNERS-UP

KraftVelveetaOriginal

MAPLESYRUP

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Maple Grove Farms Grade A Dark Amber

WHYWELIKEITCleanyetrichmapleflavor,nottoomild,harsh,orartificialinflavor

Moderatesweetnessbestsoverwhelminglysugarycompetitors

Idealconsistency,neithertoothinnortoothicklikepancakesyrupsmadefromcornsyrup

RUNNERS-UP

Highland Sugarworks Grade B (especially in baking) and Camp Grade A Dark AmberMAYONNAISE

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

BluePlateReal

WHYWELIKEITGreatbalanceoftasteandtexture

Richer,deeperflavorfromusingeggyolksalone(noeggwhites)

Shortingredientlistthat’sclosetohomemade

RUNNERS-UP

Hellmann’sReal,Hellmann’sLight,andSpectrumOrganicNOTE:Hellmann’s isknownasBestFoodswestoftheRockies.

MAYONNAISE,LIGHT

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Hellmann’sLight

WHYWELIKEITBright,balancedflavorclosetofull-fatcounterpart,notoverlysweetlikeotherlightmayos

Notascreamyasfull-fatbutpassabletexture

RUNNERS-UP

Hellmann’sCanolaCholesterolFree

NOTE:Hellmann’sisknownasBestFoodswestoftheRockies.

MIRIN(JAPANESERICEWINE)TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

EdenMirinRiceCookingWine

WHYWELIKEITRoastedflavorthatiscaramel-likeandrich

Subtlesalty-sweetandbalancedflavor

RUNNERS-UP

Sushi Chef Mirin Sweetened Sake and Kikkoman Aji-Mirin Sweet Cooking Rice SeasoningMOLASSES

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Brer Rabbit All Natural Unsulphured Mild Flavor

WHYWELIKEITAcidicyetbalanced

Strongandstraightforwardraisin-ytaste

Pleasantlybitterbite

RUNNERS-UP

Plantation Barbados Unsulphured and Grandma’s Molasses Unsulphured Original MUSTARD,YELLOW

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Annie’sNaturalsOrganic

WHYWELIKEITListsmustardseedssecondintheingredientsforrichmustardflavor

Goodbalanceofheatandtang

Relativelylowsaltcontent

RUNNERS-UP

Gulden’s,French’sClassic,andWestbraeNaturalMUSTARD,DIJON

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

GreyPoupon

WHYWELIKEITPotent,bold,andveryhot,notweakormild

Goodbalanceofsweetness,tanginess,andsharpness

Notoverlyacidic,sweet,orone-dimensionallikecompetitors

RUNNERS-UP

MailleDijonOriginaleTraditionalandRolandExtraStrongMUSTARD,COARSE-GRAIN

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

GreyPouponHarvestCoarseGround

WHYWELIKEITSpicy,tangyburstofmustardflavor

Highsaltcontentamplifiesflavor

Containsnosuperfluousingredientsthatmaskmustardflavor

Big,roundseedsaddpleasantcrunch

Justenoughvinegar,nottoosourorthin

RUNNERS-UP

GreyPouponCountryDijon

OATS,ROLLED

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

For hot cereal: Bob’s Red Mill Organic Extra Thick

WHYWELIKEITRichoatflavorwithnutty,barley,andtoastynotes

Creamy,cohesivetexture

Plumpgrainswithdecentchew

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Forbaking:QuakerOld-Fashioned

WHYWELIKEITPlump,almostcrunchytexturewithaslightchew,notglueyormushy

Hearty,oaty,andtoastyflavor

Subtlysweetwithanaturaltaste

OATS,STEEL-CUT

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Bob’sRedMillOrganic

WHYWELIKEITRichandcomplexoatflavorwithbuttery,earthy,nutty,andwhole-grainnotes

Creamyyettoothsometexture

Moistbutnotsticky

RUNNERS-UP

Arrowhead Mills Organic Hot Cereal, Country Choice Organic, and Hodgson’s Mill PremiumNOTE:Notrecommendedforbaking

OLIVEOIL,CALIFORNIATESTKITCHENFAVORITE

CaliforniaOliveRanchArbequina

WHYWELIKEITRoundandfull,sweetoliveflavorwithlittlebitternessorpungency

Complexwithfruity,nutty,andbutterynotesandfresh,pureoliveaftertaste

RUNNERS-UP

Sciabica’sSevillanoVarietyFallHarvest

OLIVEOIL,EXTRA-VIRGIN

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Columela

WHYWELIKEITButteryflavorthatissweetandfullwithapepperyfinish

Aromaticandfruity,notblandorbitter

Cleantaste,comparabletoafresh-squeezedolive,outshinesbland,greasycompetitors

RUNNERS-UP

LuciniItaliaPremiumSelectandColavita

OLIVEOIL,REGULAR

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Colavita

WHYWELIKEITPeppery,fruityflavors

Boldflavor,nottooblandormildlikesomecompetitors

Losesmostflavorwhenheatedto300F,sonotspecificallyrecommendedforcooking

RUNNERS-UP

FilippoBerio

ORANGEJUICE

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Natalie’s Orchid Island Juice Company

WHYWELIKEITBlendofHamlin,Pineapple,andValenciaoranges

Fresh,sweet,andfruityflavorwithoutoverlyacidic,sour,orfrom-concentratetaste

Gentlerpasteurizationhelpsretainfresh-squeezedflavor

Pleasantamountoflightpulp

RUNNERS-UP

TropicanaPurePremium100%PureandNaturalwithSomePulpPANCAKEMIX

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

HungryJackButtermilk

WHYWELIKEITFlavorfulbalanceofsweetnessandtangwell-seasonedwithsugarandsalt

Light,extrafluffytexture

Requiresvegetableoil(alongwithmilkandegg)toreconstitutethebatter

RUNNERS-UP

AuntJemimaOriginal

PAPRIKATESTKITCHENFAVORITE

TheSpiceHouseHungarianSweet

WHYWELIKEITComplexflavorwithearthy,fruitynotes

Brightandbold,notblandandboring

Rich,toastyaroma

RUNNERS-UP

Penzeys Hungary Sweet (available through mail order, Penzeys, 800-741-7787,www.penzeys.com)NOTE:Availableonly throughmailorder,TheSpiceHouse (312-274-0378,www.thespicehouse.com).


http://www.thespicehouse.com

PASTA,CHEESERAVIOLITESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Rosetto

WHYWELIKEITCreamy,plush,andrichblendofricotta,Romano,andParmesancheeses

Pastawithnice,springybite

Perfectdough-to-fillingratio

RUNNERS-UP

BuitoniFourCheeseandCelentano

PASTA,CHEESETORTELLINITESTKITCHENFAVORITE

BarillaThreeCheese

WHYWELIKEITRobustly flavored filling from combination of ricotta, Emmentaler, and Grana Padano

cheeses

Tender pasta that’s sturdy enough towithstand boiling but not so thick that it becomes

doughy

RUNNERS-UP

SeviroliandBuitoniThreeCheese

PASTA,EGGNOODLES

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

PennsylvaniaDutchWideEggNoodles

WHYWELIKEITBalanced,butteryflavorwithnooff-flavors

Lightandfluffytexture,notgummyorstarchy

RUNNERS-UP

De Cecco Egg Pappardelle; Light ‘n Fluffy Egg Noodles, Wide PASTA, ELBOW MACARONITESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Barilla

WHYWELIKEITRichflavorfromeggyolks

Firm,chewybite

Widecorkscrewshape

RUNNERS-UP

Mueller’s

PASTA,FRESH

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

BuitoniFettuccine

WHYWELIKEITFirmbutyielding,slightlychewytexture,nottoodelicate,gummy,orheavy

Faintbutdiscernibleeggflavorwithnochemical,plasticky,orotherwiseunpleasantflavors

Rough,poroussurfaceabsorbssaucebetterthandriedpasta

PASTA,LASAGNANOODLES

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

No-boil:Barilla

WHYWELIKEITTasteandtextureoffreshpasta

Delicate,flatnoodles

RUNNERS-UP

RonzoniandPastaDeFino

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Whole-wheat: Bionaturae Organic 100% Whole Wheat

WHYWELIKEITComplexnutty,richwheatflavor

Substantialchewytexturewithoutanygrittiness

RUNNERS-UP

DeLallo100%Organic

PASTA,PENNE

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Mueller’sPenneRigate

WHYWELIKEITHeartytexture,notinsubstantialorgummy

Wheaty,slightlysweetflavor,notbland

RUNNERS-UP

Benedetto Cavalieri Penne Rigate and De Cecco PASTA, SPAGHETTI TEST KITCHENFAVORITE

DeCeccoSpaghettiNo.12

WHYWELIKEITRich,nutty,wheatyflavor

Firm,ropystrandswithgoodchew,notmushy,gummy,ormealy

RUNNERS-UP

Rustichella D’Abruzzo Pasta Abruzzese di Semola di Grano Duro, Garofalo, and DeLalloSpaghettiNo.4

PASTA,SPAGHETTI,WHOLE-WHEAT

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Bionaturae100%WholeWheat

WHYWELIKEITChewy,firm,andtoothsome,notmushyorrubbery

Fullandnuttywheatflavor

RUNNERS-UP

BarillaPLUSMultigrain

PASTASAUCE

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

BertolliTomato&Basil

WHYWELIKEITFresh-cooked,balancedtomatoflavor,notoverlysweet

Pleasantlychunky,nottoosmoothorpasty

Notoverseasonedwithdryherbslikecompetitors

RUNNERS-UP

Francesco Rinaldi Traditional Marinara, Prego Marinara Italian, and Barilla Marinara PASTASAUCE,PREMIUM

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

VictoriaMarinaraSauce

WHYWELIKEITNice,brightaciditythatspeaksofrealtomatoes

Robustflavorcomparabletohomemade

RUNNERS-UP

ClassicoMarinarawithPlumTomatoesandOliveOilPEANUTBUTTER,CREAMY

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Skippy

WHYWELIKEITSmooth,creamy,andspreadable

Goodbalanceofsweetandsaltyflavors

RUNNERS-UP

JifNaturalandReese’s

PEPPERCORNS,BLACK

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Kalustyan’sIndianTellicherry

WHYWELIKEITEnticingandfragrant,notmusty,aromawithflavortobackitupandmoderateheat

Fresh,complexflavoratoncesweetandspicy,earthyandsmoky,fruityandfloral

RUNNERS-UP

Morton & Bassett Organic Whole (widely available) NOTE: Available only by mail order,Kalustyan’s(800-352-3451,www.kalustyans.com).

http://www.kalustyans.com

PEPPERONI,SLICED

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

MargheritaItalianStyle

WHYWELIKEITNicebalanceofmeatinessandspice

Tangy,freshflavorwithhintsoffruitylicoriceandpepperyfennel

Thinsliceswiththerightamountofchew

RUNNERS-UP

Boar’sHead

PEPPERS,ROASTEDRED

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

DunbarsSweet

WHYWELIKEITBalanceofsmokinessandsweetness

Mild,sweet,andearthyredpepperflavor

Firmtexture,notslimyormushy

Packed in simple yet strong brine of salt andwaterwithout distraction of other strongly

flavoredingredients

RUNNERS-UP

Cento

PICKLES,BREAD-AND-BUTTER

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Bubbies

WHYWELIKEITSubtle,brinytang

All-naturalsolutionthatusesrealsugar,nothigh-fructosecornsyrup

PICKLES,WHOLEKOSHERDILL

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Boar’sHead

WHYWELIKEITAuthentic,garlickyflavorandfirm,snappycrunch

Balancedsalty,sour,andgarlicflavors

Freshandrefrigerated,notprocessedandshelf-stable

RUNNERS-UP

Claussen

PIECRUST,READY-MADE

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Wholly Wholesome 9” Certified Organic Traditional Bake at Home Rolled Pie Dough

WHYWELIKEITPalmoilgivesitatender,flakytexturewithoutartificialtaste

Soldinsheetssoyoucanuseyourownpieplate

Slightlysweet,richflavor

PIZZA,CHEESE,FROZEN

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

California Pizza Kitchen Crispy Thin Crust Margherita

WHYWELIKEITPleasingcombinationofflavorsandfreshtastewithnooffensiveoff-flavors

Lowinpreservativesascomparedtothecompetition

Chunksoftomatoinplaceofsauce

RUNNERS-UP

Freschetta Ultra ThinGolden BakedCrispy 5-Cheese, Tombstone Extra CheeseOriginal, andAmy’s

PORK,PREMIUM

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Snake River Farms American Kurobuta (Berkshire) Pork

WHYWELIKEITDeeppinktint,whichindicateshigherpHlevelandmoreflavorfulmeat

Tendertextureandjuicy,intenselypork-yflavor

RUNNERS-UP

D’Artagnan Berkshire Pork Chops (Milanese-Style Cut) and Eden Farms French-Cut KurobutaPork

POTATOCHIPS

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Lay’sKettleCookedOriginal

WHYWELIKEITBigpotatoflavor,nooffensiveoff-flavors

Perfectlysalted

Slightlythickchipsthataren’ttoodelicateorbrittle

Nottoogreasy

RUNNERS-UP

Herr’sCrisp’NTastyandUtz

POTATOCHIPS,REDUCEDFAT

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

CapeCod40%ReducedFat

WHYWELIKEITRealpotatoflavorwithexcellentcrunchandtexture

Containonlypotatoes,canolaoil,andsalt

Withlesssodiumthanmanycompetitors,theyhavejusttherightbalanceofsalt

RUNNERS-UP

Lay’sKettleCookedReducedFatExtraCrunchyPRESERVES,RASPBERRY

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Smucker’s

WHYWELIKEIT

Clean,strongraspberryflavor,nottootartorsweet

Notoverlyseedy

Ideal,spreadabletexture,nottoothick,artificial,oroverprocessed

RUNNERS-UP

TrappistRedRaspberryJam

PRESERVES,STRAWBERRY

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Welch’s

WHYWELIKEITBig,distinctstrawberryflavor

Natural-tastingandnotoverwhelminglysweet

Thickandspreadabletexture,notrunny,slimy,ortoosmooth

RUNNERS-UP

Smucker’sandSmucker’sSimplyFruitSpreadableFruitRELISH,SWEETPICKLE

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

CascadianFarm

WHYWELIKEITPiquant, sweet flavor, lacks out-of-place flavors such as cinnamonand clove present in

competitors

Freshandnaturaltaste,freeofyellowdye#5andhigh-fructosecornsyrup

Goodtexture,notmushylikecompetitors

RUNNERS-UP

HeinzPremium

RICE,ARBORIO

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

RiceSelect

WHYWELIKEITCreamierthancompetitors

Smoothgrains

CharacteristicgoodbiteofArborioriceinrisottowherealdenteisideal

RUNNERS-UP

RisoBaricellaandRienzi

RICE,BASMATITESTKITCHENFAVORITE

TildaPure

WHYWELIKEITVerylonggrainsexpandgreatlywithcooking,aresultofbeingagedforaminimumofone

year,asrequiredinIndia

Ideal,fluffytexture,notdry,gummy,ormushy

Nuttytastewithnooff-flavors

Sweetaroma

RUNNERS-UP

KohinoorSuper

RICE,BROWN

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

GoyaBrownRiceNaturalLongGrain

WHYWELIKEITFirmyettendergrains

Bold,toasty,nuttyflavor

RUNNERS-UP

LundbergOrganicLongGrainBrown

RICE,LONG-GRAINWHITE

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Lundberg Organic Long Grain White Rice

WHYWELIKEITNutty,buttery,andtoastyflavor

Distinct,smoothgrainsthatoffersomechewwithoutbeingoverlychewy

RUNNERS-UP

CarolinaEnrichedExtraLong-GrainandCanillaExtraLong-GrainEnrichedRICE,READY

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

MinuteReadytoServeWhiteRice

WHYWELIKEITParboiledlong-grainwhitericethatisreadyinlessthan2minutes

Toasted,butteryflavor

Firmgrainswithaldentebite

SALSA,HOT

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

PaceHotChunky

WHYWELIKEITGoodbalanceofbrighttomato,chile,andvegetalflavors

Chunky,almostcrunchytexture,notmushyorthin

Spicyandfierybutnotoverpowering

RUNNERS-UP

Newman’sOwnAllNaturalChunkyHotandHerdezHotSalsaCaseraSALSA,MEDIUM

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Chi-Chi’s Medium Thick and Chunky Salsa

WHYWELIKEITFresh,balancedflavor;vegetablesarefirmandcrunchy

Jalapeñochilesformedium-levelheat

SALT

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

MaldonSeaSalt

WHYWELIKEITLightandairytexture

Delicatelycrunchyflakes

Notsocoarseastobeoverlycrunchyorgrittynorsofineastodisappear

RUNNERS-UP

Fleur de Sel de Camargue, Morton Coarse Kosher, and Diamond Crystal Kosher SAUSAGE,BREAKFAST

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

FarmlandFullyCookedPorkLinks

WHYWELIKEITBigporkflavor,notblandoroverlyspiced

Goodbalanceofsaltinessandsweetnesswithpleasantlylingeringspiciness

Tender,super-juicymeat,notrubbery,spongy,orgreasy

RUNNERS-UP

FarmlandOriginalPorkLinks

SOUP,CANNEDCHICKENNOODLE

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

MuirGlenOrganic

WHYWELIKEITOrganicchickenandvegetablesandplentyofseasoningsgive ita fresh tasteandspicy

kick

Firm,notmushy,vegetablesandnoodles

Nooff-flavors

RUNNERS-UP

ProgressoTraditional

SOUP,CANNEDTOMATO

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

ProgressoVegetableClassicsHearty

WHYWELIKEITIncludesfresh,unprocessedtomatoes,notjusttomatopureelikesomecompetitors

Tangy,slightlyherbaceousflavor

Balancedseasoningandnaturalsweetness

Mediumbodyandslightlychunkytexture

RUNNERS-UP

ImagineOrganicVineRipened

SOYSAUCE

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Forcooking:LeeKumKeeTabletop

WHYWELIKEITPleasantlysaltyyetsweetwithhighsodiumandsugarcontent

Depthofflavorbalancessalty,sweet,roasted,andfruitynotes

Aromaticinriceandteriyaki

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

For dipping: Ohsawa Nama Shoyu Organic Unpasteurized

WHYWELIKEITLowersodiumcontentallowsclean,mellowtastetoshineinuncookedapplications

Rich and nuanced flavorwith sweet, floral, and caramel notes resulting from traditional,

slow-brewedproduction

STEAKSAUCE

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Heinz57Sauce

WHYWELIKEITMellow,restrainedflavorthatdoesn’toverpowerthemeat

Fruity,sweetandtangyflavorwithhintsofheatandsmoke

Smoothtexturewithenoughbodytoclingtosteakwithoutbeinggluey

RUNNERS-UP

Lea&Perrins

SWEETENEDCONDENSEDMILK

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

BordenEagleBrandWholeMilk

WHYWELIKEITMadewithwholemilk;creamierindessertsandbalancesmoreassertivenotesfromother

ingredients

RUNNERS-UP

NestléCarnation

TARTARSAUCE

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

LegalSeaFoods

WHYWELIKEITCreamy,nicelybalancedsweet/tartbase

Lotsofvegetablechunks

RUNNERS-UP

McCormickOriginal

TEA,BLACK

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

For plain tea: Twinings English Breakfast

WHYWELIKEITBright,bold,andflavorfulyetnottoostrong

Fruity,floral,andfragrant

Smooth,slightlyastringentprofilepreferredforteawithoutmilk

RUNNERS-UP

PGTips

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Forteawithmilk:TazoAwake

WHYWELIKEITClean,strongtaste

Smokyandfruitywithnotesofclove,cinnamon,andvanilla

Aromaticbutnotoverwhelming

Goodbalanceofflavorandintensity

Moreastringentprofilestandsuptomilk

RUNNERS-UP

TetleySpecialtyEnglishBreakfast

TERIYAKISAUCE

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

AnnieChun’sAllNatural

WHYWELIKEITDistinctteriyakiflavorwithoutoffensiveordominantflavors,unlikecompetitors

Smooth,richtexture,nottoowateryorgluey

TOMATOES,CANNEDCRUSHED

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Tuttorosso in Thick Puree with Basil

WHYWELIKEITChunkytexture,notpasty,mushy,orwatery

Bright,freshtomatotaste

Balanceofsaltiness,sweetness,andacidity

RUNNERS-UP

Muir GlenOrganic with Basil and Hunt’s Organic NOTE: Available only in New England,Mid-Atlanticregion,andFlorida.

TOMATOES,CANNEDDICED

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Hunt’s

WHYWELIKEITBright,freshtomatoflavorthatbalancessweetandtart

Firmyettendertexture

RUNNERS-UP

MuirGlenOrganicDicedTomatoes

TOMATOES,CANNEDPUREED

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

MuirGlenOrganicTomatoPuree

WHYWELIKEITFulltomatoflavorwithoutanybitter,sour,ortinnynotes

Pleasantlythick,evenconsistency,notwateryorthin

RUNNERS-UP

Hunt’s,Progresso,andCento

TOMATOES,CANNEDWHOLE

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

MuirGlenOrganic

WHYWELIKEITPleasingbalanceofboldacidityandfruitysweetness

Firmyettendertexture,evenafterhoursofsimmering

RUNNERS-UP

Hunt’s

TOMATOPASTE

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Goya

WHYWELIKEITBright,robusttomatoflavors

Balanceofsweetandtartflavors

RUNNERS-UP

PasteneandContadina

TORTILLACHIPS

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Santitas Authentic Mexican Style White Corn

WHYWELIKEITMildandpleasantlysaltyflavor,notbland,artificial,orrancid

Sturdyyetcrunchyandcrisptexture,notbrittle,stale,orcardboardlike

RUNNERS-UP

Tostitos 100%White Corn Restaurant Style, GreenMountain Gringo All Natural, and TostitosNaturalYellowCornRestaurantStyle

TORTILLAS,FLOUR

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

OldElPaso6-InchFlourTortillas

WHYWELIKEITThinandflakytexture,notdoughyorstale

Madewithplentyoffatandsalt

RUNNERS-UP

Mission

TOSTADAS,CORN

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

MissionTostadasEstiloCasero

WHYWELIKEITCrisp,crunchytexture

Goodcornflavor

Flavorandtexturethataresubstantialenoughtostanduptoheartytoppings

RUNNERS-UP

Charras

TUNA,CANNED

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

WildPlanetWildAlbacore

WHYWELIKEITRich,fresh-tasting,andflavorful,butnotfishy

Hearty,substantialchunksoftuna

RUNNERS-UP

American Tuna Pole Caught Wild Albacore and Starkist Selects Solid White Albacore TUNA,CANNEDPREMIUM

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Nardin Bonito Del Norte Ventresca Fillets

WHYWELIKEITCreamy,delicatemeatandtenderyetfirmfillets

Full,richtunaflavor

RUNNERS-UP

TonninoTunaVentrescaYellowfininOliveOilTURKEY,WHOLE

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

EmpireKosher

WHYWELIKEITMoistanddensetexturewithoutbeingwatery,chewy,orsquishy

Meaty,fullturkeyflavor

Butterywhitemeat

Kosheringprocessrendersbriningunnecessary

RUNNERS-UP

Good Shepherd Ranch Heritage (available throughmail order, Good Shepherd Turkey RanchInc.,785-227-5149,www.reeseturkeys.net)VANILLABEANS

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

McCormickMadagascar

http://www.reeseturkeys.net

WHYWELIKEITMoist,seed-filledpods

Complex,robustflavorwithcaramelnotes

RUNNERS-UP

SpiceIslandsBourbon

VANILLAEXTRACT

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

McCormickPure

WHYWELIKEITStrong,richvanillaflavorwhereothersareweakandsharp

Complexflavorwithspicy,caramelnotesandasweetundertone

RUNNERS-UP

RodellePureandGoldMedalImitationbyC.F.SauerCo.

VEGETABLEOIL

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

CriscoNaturalBlendOil

WHYWELIKEITUnobtrusive, mild flavor for stir-frying and sautéing and for use in baked goods and in

uncookedapplicationssuchasmayonnaiseandvinaigrette

Neutraltasteandabsenceoffishyormetallicflavorswhenusedforfrying

RUNNERS-UP

MazolaCanolaOil

VINEGAR,APPLECIDER

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Maille

WHYWELIKEITDeep,warmprofilewithsweet,mellow,andsmoothciderflavor

Balanceofrichnessandtanginess

Complexwithnotesofhoneyandcaramelwithclearappleflavor

RUNNERS-UP

SpectrumNaturalsOrganicUnfiltered

VINEGAR,BALSAMIC

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

LuciniGranRiservaBalsamico

WHYWELIKEITSweet,nuancedflavorlackinganyharshnessorastringency

Smoothandthickliketraditionalbalsamic,nottoothinorlight

Balanceoftanginessandsweetnesswithcomplexityandaslightacidiczing

RUNNERS-UP

MonariFederzoniofModenaandOrtalliofModenaVINEGAR,REDWINE

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

LaurentDuClos

WHYWELIKEITCrispredwineflavorbalancedbystrongerthanaverageacidityandsubtlesweetness

Complexyetpleasingtastefrommultiplevarietiesofgrapes

RUNNERS-UP

PompeianGourmetandSpectrumNaturalsOrganicVINEGAR,WHITEWINE

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Forcooking:ColavitaAged

WHYWELIKEITBalanceoftanginessandsubtlesweetness,notoverlyacidicorweak

Fruity,bright,andperfumed

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

For vinaigrettes: Spectrum Naturals Organic

WHYWELIKEITRich,darkflavortastesfermentedandmalty,notartificialorharsh

Fruityflavorwithcaramel,earthy,andnuttynotes

YOGURT,GREEKFULL-FAT

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Olympus Traditional Greek Yogurt Strained, Plain 10% Fat

WHYWELIKEITRichtasteandsatinytexture,notthin,watery,orsoupy

Buttery,tangyflavor

RUNNERS-UP

GreekGodsTraditionalPlainandFageTotalYOGURT,GREEKNONFAT

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

Olympus Traditional Greek Nonfat Yogurt Strained, Plain

WHYWELIKEITSmooth,creamyconsistency,notwateryorpudding like fromadded thickeners,suchas

pectinorgelatin

Pleasantlytangy,well-balancedflavor,notsourormetallic

RUNNERS-UP

VoskosGreekPlainNonfat,BrownCowPlainGreek0%Fat,andDannonGreekPlain0%Fat

YOGURT,LOW-FATSTRAWBERRY

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

DannonFruitontheBottom

WHYWELIKEITGoodstrawberryflavor,nottoosweet,sour,orbland

Pleasantlythick,notwateryorrunny

Noartificial,plasticky,orotherwiseunwelcomeflavorsasinmanycompetitors

RUNNERS-UP

Wallaby Organic Creamy Australian-Style and Fage 2% All Natural Greek Strained YOGURT,WHOLE-MILK

TESTKITCHENFAVORITE

BrownCowCreamTopPlain

WHYWELIKEITRich,well-roundedflavor,notsourorbland

Especiallycreamy,smoothtexture,notthinorwatery

Higherfatcontentcontributestoflavorandtexture

RUNNERS-UP

StonyfieldFarmOrganicPlain

EpisodeDirectory

SEASONONE2008EPISODE101

ForgottenCakes

StrawberryPokeCake


EPISODE102SundayDinner



EPISODE103FeedingaCrowd,Italian-Style



EPISODE104SouthernRegionalRecipes



EPISODE105

AutumnSupper

OldFashionedRoastPork


EPISODE106All-AmericanPicnic



EPISODE107

EasyasPie

RaspberryChiffonPie


EPISODE108SteakhouseFavorites

BroiledSteaks


EPISODE109BarbecuedChicken



EPISODE110RegionalChops



EPISODE111

MidwesternFavorites


CincinnatiChili

EPISODE112CaliforniaGrilling



SantaMariaSalsa

EPISODE113DinerFavorites



SEASONTWO2009

EPISODE201

OldFashionedRoastBeefDinner


PerfectPopovers

EPISODE202Pucker-UpPies


IceboxKeyLimePie

EPISODE203RiseAndShine



EPISODE204SurefireSeafood

Wood-GrilledSalmon

BakedStuffedShrimp


EPISODE205FudgyCakes

TunnelofFudgeCake

HotFudgePuddingCake

EPISODE206TexasChili

EasyChiliConCarne


EPISODE207SouthernBBQ



EPISODE208Fail-SafeThanksgiving

OldFashionedRoastTurkeywithGravy


EPISODE209

FriedChickenDinner

CreoleFriedChicken

GrilledCornontheCob

EPISODE210Ranch-StyleBarbecue


RanchPotatoSalad

EPISODE211StovetopDesserts

SkilletPeachCobbler

MaineBlueberryGrunt

EPISODE212

PerfectPork



EPISODE213HistoricalCakes

RedVelvetCake

Cold-OvenPoundCake

SEASONTHREE2010

EPISODE301TwoPerfectPies

ShakerLemonPie

IceboxStrawberryPie

EPISODE302FamilyDinnerFavorites

GlazedMeatloaf

CrunchyPotatoWedges

EPISODE303

OldFashionedPork

Pan-FriedPorkChops



EPISODE304

SouthernComfortFood

Batter-FriedChicken

SweetCornSpoonbread

EPISODE305

BeefMeetsGrill


Char-GrilledSteaks

EPISODE306EverybodyLovesChocolate


TexasSheetCake

EPISODE307

HeartyItalianMeals

ItalianPotRoast


EPISODE308NorthernCookout



JucyLucyBurgers

EPISODE309TheChemistryOfCakes

LemonPuddingCake

AngelFoodCake

EPISODE310SouthwesternSuppers


EasyChickenTacos

EPISODE311BreakfastShowstoppers

MonkeyBread

DutchBaby

EPISODE312

ChickenTwoWays

RoastLemonChicken


EPISODE313UltimateHamDinner

Cider-BakedHam


CornmealBiscuits

SEASONFOUR2011

EPISODE401RoastBeefDinner

HerbedRoastBeef

WhippedPotatoes

EPISODE402

IceboxDesserts



EPISODE403FancyChicken


AppleCiderChicken

EPISODE404TropicalBarbecue

HuliHuliChicken


EPISODE405

SouthernClassics

Gumbo

LaneCake

EPISODE406RetroDesserts

BananaPudding

ChiffonCake

EPISODE407FamilyFavorites



EPISODE408NotJustForKids

ChickenNuggets


EPISODE409

FriedChickenAndBiscuits


CatHeadBiscuits

EPISODE410RoadFoodAtHome



EPISODE411AutumnDesserts

BakedAppleDumplings

OldFashionedPecanPie

EPISODE412Grilling




EPISODE413St.LouisCooking



SEASONFIVE2012

EPISODE501HeartyAutumnDinner

SmotheredPorkChops

AppleFritters

EPISODE502BreakfastBreads

MorningGloryMuffins

MorningBuns

EPISODE503DixieChicken

ChickenandSlicks

MoravianChickenPie

EPISODE504ItalianFavoritesRevisited



EPISODE505SimpleSummerSupper


DillPotatoSalad

EPISODE506FunModernCakes

StrawberryDreamCake


EPISODE507

UpscaleMeatandPotatoes


DuchessPotatoes

EPISODE508ThrilloftheGrill

GrilledChickenWings


EPISODE509ForgottenCookies

MeltingMoments

FairyGingerbread

EPISODE510Super-EasyComfortFood


ChuckRoastinFoil

EPISODE511

ChickenforEveryone!



SmokySalsaVerde

EPISODE512

GreatAmericanCookout

BaltimorePitBeef


EPISODE513DinnerattheDiner

PattyMelts

CrispyPotatoTots

SEASONSIX2013

EPISODE601

PicnicintheCountry

HoneyFriedChicken

AmishPotatoSalad

EPISODE602Company’sComing

CrownRoastofPork


EPISODE603OldFashionedSweetEndings

PeachesandCreamPie


EPISODE604

GreatAmericanMeatandPotatoes

AtlantaBrisket

RoastedSalt-and-VinegarPotatoes

EPISODE605ItalianMadeEasy

GrandmaPizza


EPISODE606BackyardBarbecue



EPISODE607HomespunBreakfastTreats


EnglishMuffinBread

EPISODE608

IrishCountryCooking

GuinnessBeefStew

BrownSodaBread

EPISODE609SweetonTexas

TresLechesCake


EPISODE610GetYourChileFix


Five-AlarmChili

EPISODE611DessertonBourbonStreet


Beignets

EPISODE612FavoriteswithaChineseAccent


ChineseChickenSalad

EPISODE613

ComfortFoodClassics


HerbRoastChicken

SEASONSEVEN2014

EPISODE701ShortOrderBreakfastClassics

QuickerCinnamonBuns

”Impossible”Ham-and-CheesePie

EPISODE702

DressingUpMeatandPotatoes

HolidayStripRoast


EPISODE703

BlackandWhiteDesserts

ChocolateAngelPie


EPISODE704FreshandSpicySpinstoPorkRoastandTacosPuertoRicanPorkRoast


EPISODE705OldFashionedSundaySuppers



EPISODE706SteakhouseSpecialsOfftheGrill


GrilledCaesarSalad

EPISODE707DinnerfromthePrairie

Milk-CanSupper

DakotaBread

EPISODE708

MemphisRibsandPretzelSalad



EPISODE709SweetEndingsfromtheIcebox

ItalianCreamCake

SummerBerryPudding

EPISODE710NewOrleansShrimpandCreamyGrits


CreamyCheeseGrits

EPISODE711GreatGrilledChickenandTexasPotatoSaladGrilledChickenLegQuarters

TexasPotatoSalad

EPISODE712

OklahomaOnionBurgersandLouisianaMeatPiesOklahomaFriedOnionBurgers


EPISODE713ColoradoChiliandSlowCookerBakedZitiColoradoGreenChili


1teaspoon

=4.9292milliliters,roundedupto5milliliters

1ounce =28.3495grams,roundeddownto28grams

ConversionsandEquivalencies

Somesaycooking isascienceandanart.Wewouldsay thatgeographyhasahandinit,too.FlourmilledintheUnitedKingdomandelsewherewillfeelandtastedifferentfromflourmilledintheUnitedStates.Sowecannotpromisethatthe loafofbreadyoubake inCanadaorEnglandwill taste the sameas a loafbaked in the States, but we can offer guidelines for converting weights andmeasures.Wealsorecommendthatyourelyonyourinstinctswhenmakingourrecipes. Refer to the visual cues provided. If the bread dough hasn’t “cometogether inaball,”asdescribed,youmayneed toaddmoreflour—evenif therecipedoesn’ttellyouto.Youbethejudge.The recipes in this book were developed using standard U.S. measures

followingU.S. government guidelines. The charts below offer equivalents forU.S.,metric,andimperial(U.K.)measures.Allconversionsareapproximateandhavebeenroundedupordowntothenearestwholenumber.

EXAMPLE:

VOLUMECONVERSIONS (U.S. toMetric) 1 teaspoon=5milliliters 2teaspoons=10milliliters1tablespoon=15milliliters2tablespoons=30milliliters¼cup=59milliliters⅓cup=79milliliters

½cup=118milliliters

¾cup=177milliliters

1cup=237milliliters

1¼cups=296milliliters

1½cups=355milliliters

2cups(1pint)=473milliliters2½cups=592milliliters

3cups=710milliliters

4cups(1quart)=0.946liter1.06quarts=1liter

4quarts(1gallon)=3.8litersWEIGHTCONVERSIONS

½ounces=14grams

¾ounces=21grams

1ounce-28grams

1½ounces=43grams

2ounces=57grams

2½ounces=71grams

3ounces=85grams

3½ounces=99grams

4ounces=113grams

4½ounces=128grams

5ounces=142grams

6ounces=170grams

7ounces=198grams

8ounces=227grams

9ounces=255grams

10ounces=283grams

12ounces=340grams

16ounces(1pound)=454grams

CONVERSIONSFORINGREDIENTSCOMMONLYUSEDINBAKING

Bakingisanexactingscience.Becausemeasuringbyweightisfarmoreaccuratethanmeasuringby-volume,andthusmore likely toachievereliableresults, inour recipeswe provide ouncemeasures in addition to cupmeasures formanyingredients.Refertothechartbelowtoconvertthesemeasuresintograms.

1CupAll-PurposeFlour*=5ounces=142grams1CupWhole-WheatFlour=5½ounces=156grams 1 CupGranulated (white) Sugar = 7ounces = 198grams 1 Cup Packed BrownSugar (light or dark) = 7 ounces = 198 grams 1CupConfectioners’ Sugar = 4 ounces = 113grams1CupCocoaPowder=3ounces=85gramsButter†

4Tablespoons(½stick,or¼cup)=2ounces=57grams8Tablespoons(1stick,or½cup)=4ounces = 113 grams 16Tablespoons (2 sticks, or 1 cup) = 8 ounces = 227 grams *U.S. all-purpose flour, themost frequentlyused flour in thisbook,doesnotcontain leaveners,assomeEuropean floursdo.These leavened floursarecalledself-risingorself-raising. If youareusingself--risingflour,takethisintoconsiderationbeforeaddingleaveningtoarecipe.

IntheUnitedStates,butterissoldbothsaltedandunsalted.Wegenerallyrecommendunsaltedbutter.Ifyouareusingsaltedbutter,takethisintoconsiderationbeforeaddingsalttoarecipe.

OvenTemperatures225Fahrenheit=105Celcius=¼GasMark(Imperial)250Fahrenheit=120Celcius=½GasMark (Imperial) 275 Fahrenheit = 130 Celcius = 1 GasMark (Imperial) 300 Fahrenheit = 150Celcius = 2 Gas Mark (Imperial) 325 Fahrenheit = 165 Celcius = 3 Gas Mark (Imperial) 350Fahrenheit=180Celcius=4GasMark(Imperial)375Fahrenheit=190Celcius=5GasMark(Imperial)400Fahrenheit=200Celcius=6GasMark(Imperial)425Fahrenheit=220Celcius=7GasMark(Imperial)450Fahrenheit=230Celcius=8GasMark(Imperial)475Fahrenheit=245Celcius=9GasMark(Imperial)

CONVERTING TEMPERATURES FROM AN INSTANT-READTHERMOMETER

We include doneness temperatures in many of the recipes in this book. Werecommendaninstant-readthermometerforthejob.Refertotheabovetabletoconvert Fahrenheit degrees toCelsius.Or, for temperatures not represented inthechart,usethissimpleformula:Subtract32degreesfromtheFahrenheitreading,thendividetheresultby1.8

tofindtheCelsiusreading.

EXAMPLE:

“Roastchickenuntilthighsregister175degrees.”

Toconvert:

175°F–32=143°143°÷1.8=79.44°C,roundeddownto79°C

†

MasterRecipeListing

CHAPTER 1: AS GOOD ASGRANDMA’SMacaroniandCheesewithTomatoes


CreamyCheeseGrits

ChickenFlorentine

ChickenDivan

GlazedMeatloaf



SalisburySteak

Milk-CanSupper

Pan-FriedPorkChops

SmotheredPorkChops




CHAPTER 2: FORK-IN-THE-ROADFAVORITES

Batter-FriedChicken

HoneyFriedChicken

CreoleFriedChicken



ChickenNuggets

Gumbo


ChineseChickenSalad

PattyMelts


AtlantaBrisket




BaltimorePitBeef

CincinnatiChili

ColoradoGreenChili



CrunchyPotatoWedges

CrispyPotatoTots


CHAPTER 3: STEAKHOUSESPECIALS


BroiledSteaks

Char-GrilledSteaks


GrilledSteakBurgers

BakedStuffedShrimp





RoastedSalt-And-VinegarPotatoes




CHAPTER4:OURSUNDAYBEST


CornbreadandSausageStuffing

HerbRoastChicken

RoastLemonChicken

AppleCiderChicken



ChickenandSlicks

MoravianChickenPie

GuinnessBeefStew



HerbedRoastBeef


HolidayStripRoast

ChuckRoastinFoil

CrownRoastofPork




Cider-BakedHam


WhippedPotatoes

DuchessPotatoes




SweetCornSpoonbread

CHAPTER5:TEX-MEXFAVORITES



ChunkyGuacamole


EasyChickenTacos


SmokySalsaVerde


EasyChiliconCarne

Five-AlarmChili

CHAPTER 6: EVERYBODY LOVESITALIAN







SkilletLasagna



GrandmaPizza

ItalianPotRoast


CHAPTER 7: THE STATE OFGRILLING

HuliHuliChicken





GrilledChickenWings





JucyLucyBurgers














Wood-GrilledSalmon


GrilledCornontheCob



GrilledCaesarSalad




AmishPotatoSalad

RanchPotatoSalad

DillPotatoSalad

TexasPotatoSalad

CHAPTER 8: RISE-AND-SHINEBREAKFASTANDBREADS



DutchBaby

Beignets





CornmealBiscuits

CatHeadBiscuits


PerfectPopovers

MorningGloryMuffins


QuickerCinnamonBuns

MorningBuns

MonkeyBread

EnglishMuffinBread

BrownSodaBread

DakotaBread

CHAPTER 9: GREAT AMERICANCAKESANDCOOKIES

RedVelvetCake


TunnelofFudgeCake

LaneCake

StrawberryDreamCake

StrawberryPokeCake

TexasSheetCake



TresLechesCake

AngelFoodCake

ChiffonCake

ItalianCreamCake


Cold-OvenPoundCake


HotFudgePuddingCake

LemonPuddingCake


MeltingMoments


FairyGingerbread

JoeFroggers


WhoopiePies

CHAPTER 10: OLD-FASHIONEDFRUITDESSERTSANDPUDDINGS

BakedAppleDumplings

AppleFritters


MaineBlueberryGrunt

SkilletPeachCobbler

BananaPudding


SummerBerryPudding

CHAPTER11:SAVEROOMFORPIE




ShakerLemonPie

PeachesandCreamPie

AppleSlabPie


IceboxKeyLimePie


RaspberryChiffonPie

IceboxStrawberryPie


ChocolateAngelPie

Index

A|B|C|D|E|F|G|H|I|J|K|L|M|N|O|P|Q|R|S|T|U|V|W|X|Y|Z

AAlabamaBarbecuedChicken


Americancheese


JucyLucyBurgers


AmishPotatoSalad

Anchovies

GrilledCaesarSalad

SalsaVerde

AngelFoodCake

CaféauLait

Chocolate-Almond

Appetizers

ChunkyGuacamole

SmokySalsaVerde


UltimateSmokySeven-LayerDip


Applecider.SeeCider

Apple(s)

AppleCiderChicken

CabbageSlaw,Tangy

-CranberryCrisp

Dumplings,Baked

Fritters

MorningGloryMuffins

SlabPie

Appliances,small,ratingsof

Asparagus,Parmesan-Crusted

AtlantaBrisket


Avocados

ChunkyGuacamole

removingfleshfrom

ripening

storing



BBabyPuddingCakes

Bacon

andBlueCheeseBakedPotatoFans

andCornbreadStuffing

LoadedBakedPotatoOmeletFilling

-RanchPotatoTots

SmokehouseMashedSweetPotatoes


BakedAppleDumplings


BakedStuffedShrimp

Bakeware,ratingsof

BaltimorePitBeef

BananaPudding

Peanut-y

Toasted-Coconut



BarbecuedWood-GrilledSalmon

BarbecueSauces

Chicago-Style

CreamyBBQ

Lexington

Mustard

Quick

Texas

Barbecue-ScallionButter

BarbecueShrimp,NewOrleans

BasilPestoButter

Batter-FriedChicken

BBQBeefBrisket,Slow-Cooker

BBQGrilledChickenWings

BBQPan-FriedPorkChops

Beans

CaliforniaBarbecued

dried,quick-soaking

dried,sorting


Five-AlarmChili





Beef

AtlantaBrisket


BaltimorePit

bladesteaks,trimming

Brisket,Slow-CookerBBQ

BroiledSteaks


Char-GrilledSteaks

chuckroast,preparing

ChuckRoastinFoil

CincinnatiChili

ClassicRoast,andGravy

EasyChiliconCarne

Enchiladas,Authentic

Five-AlarmChili

GarlicRoast,SundayBest

GlazedMeatloaf



GrilledSteakBurgers


HerbedRoast

HolidayStripRoast

ItalianPotRoast

JucyLucyBurgers



Nachos,UltimateSpicy



PattyMelts

Ribs,TexasBarbecued

SalisburySteak

ShreddedBarbecued

SkilletLasagna



steaks,broilingtimesfor

Stew,Guinness


Tenderloin,Herb-Crusted

topbladeroast,removinggristlefrom

Beer

-BatteredOnionRings

GuinnessBeefStew

Milk-CanSupper

Beignets

Berry(ies)


IceboxStrawberryPie

MaineBlueberryGrunt

RaspberryChiffonPie

StrawberryDreamCake

StrawberryPokeCake


Strawberry-RhubarbCompote

Summer,Pudding



Biscuits

CatHead

Cornmeal


Blueberry(ies)

Grunt,Maine

SummerBerryPudding

BlueCheese

andBaconBakedPotatoFans

Sauce,Buffalo

Bourbon

BreadPudding,NewOrleans

LaneCake

Sauce

WhippedCream

BreadPudding

NewOrleansBourbon

SummerBerryPudding

Breads

BrownSoda

BrownSoda,withCurrantsandCaraway

CatHeadBiscuits

CornmealBiscuits

Dakota

EnglishMuffin

Monkey

MorningBuns

MorningGloryMuffins

MuffinTinPopovers

PerfectPopovers

QuickerCinnamonBuns



seealsoTortillas

Broccoli

ChickenDivan

BroiledSteaks

Broilers,cookingwith

BrownSodaBread

BrownSodaBreadwithCurrantsandCaraway

Brusselssprouts


BuffaloBlueCheeseSauce

Burgers


GrilledSteak

JucyLucy

OklahomaFriedOnion

PattyMelts

Butter,flavored

Barbecue-Scallion

BasilPesto

ChesapeakeBay

Latin-Spiced

CCabbage

AppleSlaw,Tangy


ChineseChickenSalad

chopping


Milk-CanSupper

CaesarSalad,Grilled

CaféauLaitAngelFoodCake

Cakes

AngelFood

CaféauLait

Chocolate-Almond

BabyPudding

Chiffon

Chiffon,Orange

ChocolateBlackout


ChocolateÉclair

HotFudgePudding

ItalianCream

Lane


LemonPudding

MagicChocolateFlan

Pound,Cold-Oven

Pound,CreamCheese

RedVelvet

StrawberryDream

StrawberryPoke

TexasSheet

TresLeches

TunnelofFudge

WhoopiePies



CappuccinoGlaze

CaribbeanGrilledThin-CutPorkChops

Carrots

ChuckRoastinFoil

GuinnessBeefStew

Milk-CanSupper

MorningGloryMuffins



CatHeadBiscuits

Cheddarcheese



CreamyCheeseGrits




Cheese



Blue,andBaconBakedPotatoFans

Blue,Sauce,Buffalo

ChickenDivan





GrandmaPizza


GrilledCaesarSalad

Grits,Creamy


JucyLucyBurgers

Macaroniand,BestPotluck

Macaroniand,withTomatoes


Omelet,FluffyDiner-Style


Parmesan-RosemaryPotatoTots

PattyMelts

Pie,“ImpossibleHam-and-,”

semisoft,shredding


SkilletLasagna

SkilletLasagnawithSausageandPeppers




SouthwesternPotatoTots







weighing,forrecipes

seealsoCreamCheese

Cheesecake,LemonIcebox

ChesapeakeBayButter


Chicken

AppleCider

Barbecued

Alabama

Classic

Cornell

Pulled

breasts,preparingcutletsfrom

Chimichangas,Easier

CordonBleu,Foolproof

Divan

Florentine

Fried

Batter-

Creole

Extra-Crunchy

Extra-Spicy,Extra-Crunchy

Honey

NashvilleExtra-Hot

NashvilleHot

Gumbo

HuliHuli

LegQuarters,Grilled

Lemon,GrilledButterflied

Nuggets

Parmesan,Skillet

Pie,Moravian

Roast

withFennelandParsnips,One-Pan

Herbed

Lemon

withRootVegetables,One-Pan

Salad,Chinese

shredding

Skillet-Roasted,withStuffing

andSlicks

Tacos,Easy

whole

butterflying

cuttinginhalf

cuttingintoquarters

Wings,Grilled

BBQ

Creole

Tandoori

ChiffonCake

ChiffonCake,Orange

Chilepeppers

ColoradoGreenChili

EasyChickenTacos

EasyChiliconCarne

Five-AlarmChili


GrilledShrimpSkewers

Caribbean

JalapeñoandLime

RedChileandGinger

One-MinuteSalsa

PickledOnions

SantaMariaSalsa

seedingjalapeños

SmokySalsaVerde

storingcannedchipotles

TexasPotatoSalad




Chili

Cincinnati

ColoradoGreen

conCarne,Easy

Five-Alarm

Chimichangas,EasierChicken

ChineseChickenSalad



Chocolate

-AlmondAngelFoodCake

BabyPuddingCakes


BlackoutCake

CreamCupcakes

ÉclairCake

FlanCake,Magic

HotFudgePuddingCake

Pie,Angel

Pie,FrenchSilk

TexasSheetCake

TunnelofFudgeCake

WhoopiePies

ChuckRoastinFoil

ChunkyGuacamole

Cider

AppleCiderChicken

-BakedHam

-BraisedPorkChops

comparedtoapplejuice

Sauce

Cilantro

EasyChickenTacos

One-MinuteSalsa


SmokySalsaVerde

tired,reviving

CincinnatiChili

Cinnamon

Buns,Quicker

Buns,Ultimate

MonkeyBread

MorningBuns




ClassicSteakSauce

Coconut

ItalianCreamCake

LaneCake

-LimeCookies

MorningGloryMuffins

Toasted-,BananaPudding

Coffee

CaféauLaitAngelFoodCake

CappuccinoGlaze

Cold-OvenPoundCake

ColoradoGreenChili

Cookies

BlackandWhite

Coconut-Lime

Crescent

FairyGingerbread

JamThumbprint

JoeFroggers

MeltingMoments

Orange–PoppySeed

RoundSpritz

Slice-and-Bake

Walnut–BrownSugar

WhoopiePies

Corn

ontheCob,Grilled

CornbreadandBaconStuffing

CreamyCheeseGrits

IndividualSpoonbreads

Milk-CanSupper

Sweet,Spoonbread

Cornbread

andBaconStuffing

andSausageStuffing

Southern-StyleSkillet

Corncob-SmokedRibs,SouthDakota


Cornmeal

about

Biscuits


Pancakes,Fluffy


SweetCornSpoonbread


CreamCheese

IceboxKeyLimePie

ItalianCreamCake



PoundCake

RedVelvetCake

StrawberryDreamCake


CreamyBBQSauce

CreamyCheeseGrits


CreoleBakedStuffedShrimpwithSausage

CreoleFriedChicken

CreoleGrilledChickenWings

CrescentCookies



CrispyPotatoTots

CrispyPotatoTotsforaCrowd

CrownRoastofPork

CrunchyPotatoWedges

Cupcakes,ChocolateCream

CurrantsandCaraway,BrownSodaBreadwith

CurriedChutneySauce

DDakotaBread


Desserts

AppleFritters

BakedAppleDumplings

BananaPudding

Peanut-y

Toasted-Coconut


MaineBlueberryGrunt


SkilletPeachCobbler

SummerBerryPudding

seealsoCakes;Cookies;Pies(sweet)

DillPotatoSalad

Dips

BuffaloBlueCheeseSauce

ChunkyGuacamole

CreamyBBQSauce

CurriedChutneySauce

Honey-MustardSauce

One-MinuteSalsa

SantaMariaSalsa

Seven-Layer,Ultimate

Seven-Layer,UltimateSmoky

SmokySalsaVerde

SweetandSourSauce


Doughnuts.SeeBeignets

DuchessPotatoes

Dumplings,BakedApple

DutchBaby

EEasierChickenChimichangas

EasyChickenTacos

EasyChiliconCarne

Eggs


FoolproofHard-Cooked

Enchiladas,AuthenticBeef

EnglishMuffinBread

Equipment,ratingsof

bakeware

grillingequipment

handytools

kitchensupplies

knivesandmore

measuringequipment

potsandpans

smallappliances

specialtypieces

thermometersandtimers


Extra-Spicy,Extra-CrunchyFriedChicken

FFairyGingerbread

Fennel

andParsnips,One-PanRoastChickenwith

preparing

Fish

Sticks,Crispy,withTartarSauce

Tacos,California-Style

Wood-GrilledSalmon

Barbecued

Lemon-Thyme

seealsoAnchovies

Five-AlarmChili




FoolproofHard-CookedEggs

FrenchOnionSoup,Slow-Cooker


Fritters,Apple

GGarlic

MashedPotatoes

odor,removingfromhands

-ParsleySteakSauce

RoastBeef,SundayBest

Ginger

FairyGingerbread

JoeFroggers

-LimeGlaze

GlazedMeatloaf

Glazes

Cappuccino

Ginger-Lime

MaltedMilk

PeanutButterandJelly

Goudacheese



Grahamcrackers


IceboxKeyLimePie

Grains

CreamyCheeseGrits

DakotaBread


seealsoCornmeal

GrandmaPizza

Gravy

ClassicRoastBeefand

Mushroom,Meatloafwith

OldFashionedRoastTurkeywith

GreekDiner-StyleHomeFries


Greens

ChickenFlorentine

ChineseChickenSalad

GrilledCaesarSalad



seealsoCabbage

Grilleddishes


BaltimorePitBeef





Char-GrilledSteaks








GrilledCaesarSalad


GrilledChickenWings

BBQ

Creole

Tandoori

GrilledCornontheCob




Spanish-Style

SpicyHomeFry

VinegarandOnion

GrilledShrimpSkewers

Caribbean

JalapeñoandLime

RedChileandGinger

GrilledSteakBurgers



Caribbean

Mediterranean

SpicyThai

HuliHuliChicken

JucyLucyBurgers









Wood-GrilledSalmon

Barbecued

Lemon-Thyme

Grillingequipment,ratingsof

Grits

about

CreamyCheese

Gruyèrecheese



Guacamole

Chunky



GuinnessBeefStew

Gumbo

HHalf-and-half,substitutesfor

Ham

-and-CheesePie,“Impossible,”


Cider-Baked


Handytools,ratingsof

Herb(ed)

-CrustedBeefTenderloin

dried,cookingwith

MashedSweetPotatoeswithCaramelizedOnions

Pan-FriedPorkChops

RoastBeef

RoastChicken

tired,reviving

HolidayStripRoast

HomeFrieswithFreshHerbs


HoneyFriedChicken

Honey-MustardSauce

Horseradish

CreamSauce

TigerSauce

HotFudgePuddingCake

HuliHuliChicken

I

IceboxKeyLimePie

IceboxStrawberryPie



Ingredients,tastingsof

anchovies

applesauce

bacon

barbecuesauce

beans,canned

breadcrumbs

breads

broths

browniemix

butter,unsalted

cheeses

chicken

chilipowder

chocolateandchocolatechips

cinnamon

cocoapowder

coconutmilk

coffee

cornmeal

currypowder

dinnerrolls

eggwhites,processed

five-spicepowder

flours

Frenchfries,frozen

giardiniera

gnocchi

grits

ham

hoisinsauce

horseradish

hotdogs

hotfudgesauce

hotsauce

icecream

icedtea

juice,frozenorange

ketchup

lemonade

macaroniandcheese

maplesyrup

mayonnaise

mirin

molasses

mustard

oats

oliveoils

orangejuice

pancakemix

paprika

pastas

pastasauces

peanutbutter

peppercorns

pepperoni

peppers,roastedred

pickles

piecrust,ready-made

pizza,frozen

pork,premium

potatochips

preserves

relish

rice

salsa

salt

sausages

soups,canned

soysauce

steaksauce

sweetenedcondensedmilk

tartarsauce

tea

teriyakisauce

tomatoes,canned

tortillachips

tortillas

tostadas

tuna,canned

turkey

vanillabeansandextract

vegetableoil

vinegars

yogurts

ItalianCreamCake

ItalianPotRoast

JJamThumbprintCookies

JoeFroggers

JucyLucyBurgers

KKitchensupplies,ratingsof

Knivesandmore,ratingsof

LLaneCake

Lasagna

Skillet

Skillet,withSausageandPeppers

SpinachandTomato

Latin-SpicedButter

Lemon(s)

Chicken,GrilledButterflied

Chicken,Roast

IceboxCheesecake

MeringuePie,Mile-High

Pie,Shaker

PuddingCake

SalsaVerde

-ThymeWood-GrilledSalmon

Lettuce

ChineseChickenSalad

GrilledCaesarSalad

LexingtonBarbecueSauce


Lime

-CoconutCookies

-GingerGlaze

Key,Pie,Icebox

LoadedBakedPotatoOmeletFilling

MMacaroniandCheese,BestPotluck



MaineBlueberryGrunt

MaltedMilkGlaze

Manicotti,Baked,withMeatSauce

Marshmallowcrème


WhoopiePies


Measuringequipment,ratingsof

Meat

scoringfaton

seealsoBeef;Pork


MeatballsandMarinara,Slow-Cooker

Meatloaf,Glazed


MediterraneanGrilledThin-CutPorkChops

MeltingMoments




Milk-CanSupper

Minestrone,Slow-Cooker

Mint,tired,reviving

Molasses

JoeFroggers

MonkeyBread

MontereyJackcheese



CreamyCheeseGrits



MoravianChickenPie

MorningBuns

MorningGloryMuffins

Mozzarella


GrandmaPizza




Muffins,MorningGlory

MuffinTinPopovers

Mushroom(s)


Gravy,Meatloafwith

ItalianPotRoast

SalisburySteak

Mustard

BarbecueSauce

-GlazedPorkLoin,Grilled

-HoneySauce

NNachos,UltimateSpicyBeef

NashvilleExtra-HotFriedChicken






Noodles

ChickenandSlicks

Nuts.SeePecan(s);Walnut(s)

OOklahomaFriedOnionBurgers





One-MinuteSalsa

One-PanRoastChickenwithFennelandParsnips


Onion(s)

Caramelized,HerbedMashedSweetPotatoeswith

choppingfinely

Fried,Burgers,Oklahomaa

PattyMelts

Pickled

Rings,Beer-Battered

SmotheredPorkChops

Soup,French,Slow-Cooker

Orange(s)

ChiffonCake

ChineseChickenSalad

–PoppySeedCookies

PPancake(s)

Better-Than-the-Box

DutchBaby

FluffyCornmeal

Mix,Better-Than-the-Box

Pan-FriedPorkChops

BBQ

Herbed

Parmesan

BlueCheeseandBaconBakedPotatoFans

ChickenDivan


-CrustedAsparagus


GrilledCaesarSalad


-RosemaryPotatoTots

SkilletChicken

SkilletLasagna



Parsley

-GarlicSteakSauce

SalsaVerde

tired,reviving

Parsnips

andFennel,One-PanRoastChickenwith


Pasta



ChickenandSlicks

CincinnatiChili


SkilletLasagna





PattyMelts

Peach(es)

Cobbler,Skillet

andCreamPie

peeling

PeanutButter

andJellyGlaze

Peanut-yBananaPudding

Pecan(s)

ItalianCreamCake

LaneCake

Pie,OldFashioned

TexasSheetCake

TunnelofFudgeCake

PepperJackcheese




Pepperoni


Pepper(s)

Milk-CanSupper

Red,SteakSauce,Spicy

andSausageOmeletFilling

andSausages,SkilletLasagnawith

Vinegar,PorkChopswith

seealsoChilepeppers

PerfectPopovers

Pesto,Basil,Butter

PickledOnions

PieDough

blindbaking

Double-Crust

rollingandfitting

Single-Crust,Classic

Single-Crust,No-Fear

Pies(savory)

“Impossible”Ham-and-Cheese

MoravianChicken

NatchitochesMeat

Pies(sweet)

AppleSlab

ChocolateAngel

FrenchSilkChocolate

IceboxKeyLime

IceboxStrawberry

LemonMeringue,Mile-High

PeachesandCream

Pecan,OldFashioned

RaspberryChiffon

ShakerLemon

Pineapple

HuliHuliChicken

MorningGloryMuffins

PitBeef,Baltimore

Pizza,Grandma

Pizza,St.Louis–Style

Polenta,about

Popovers,MuffinTin

Popovers,Perfect

Pork




Chops

BBQPan-Fried

Cider-Braised

cookingtip

GrilledThin-Cut

GrilledThin-Cut,Caribbean

GrilledThin-Cut,Mediterranean

GrilledThin-Cut,SpicyThai

HerbedPan-Fried

Pan-Fried

SmokedDouble-Thick

Smothered

TennesseeWhiskey

ChopswithVinegarPeppers

ColoradoGreenChili

country-styleribs,about

CrownRoastof

GlazedMeatloaf


Loin,GrilledMustard-Glazed



PotRoast,Slow-Cooker

Pulled,Lexington-Style

Pulled,SouthCarolina

Roast,OldFashioned

Roast,PuertoRican

salt,about

scoringfaton

SkilletLasagna



Steaks,St.LouisBBQ

Tenderloin,Chinese-StyleGlazed

seealsoBacon;Ham;Sausage(s)

Potato(es)

Baked,Fans,BlueCheeseandBacon

Baked,Fans,Crispy

Baked,Super-Stuffed

bakedstuffed,preparingpotatofor

Casserole,Delmonico

ChuckRoastinFoil

CrownRoastofPork

Duchess

Gratin,OliveOil

GreekDiner-StyleHomeFries

GuinnessBeefStew

HoboPacks,Grilled

Spanish-Style

SpicyHomeFry

VinegarandOnion

HomeFrieswithFreshHerbs

LoadedBaked,OmeletFilling

Mashed,Casserole

Mashed,Garlic

Milk-CanSupper

One-PanRoastChickenwithFennelandParsnips


RoastedSalt-and-Vinegar

Salad

All-American

Amish

Dill

Ranch

Texas


SyracuseSalt

Tots

Bacon-Ranch

Crispy

Crispy,foraCrowd

Parmesan-Rosemary

Southwestern

Wedges,Crunchy

Whipped

seealsoSweetPotatoes

Potsandpans,ratingsof

PretzelStrawberrySalad

Provolone



Pudding

Banana

Banana,Peanut-y

Banana,Toasted-Coconut

Bread,NewOrleansBourbon

SummerBerry


QQuickBarbecueSauce

QuickerCinnamonBuns

RRaisins

ClassicSteakSauce

LaneCake

MorningGloryMuffins


SteakSauce

RanchPotatoSalad

Raspberry(ies)

ChiffonPie

SummerBerryPudding

Recipeandculinaryhistory

BigBobGibson’srestaurant

Bundtpans

chickenDivan

chickenFlorentine

chuckroastinfoil

cold-ovenrecipes

Cornellchicken

cowboyfoodlingo

Delmonicopotatoes

Delmonico’srestaurant

DivanParisienrestaurant

Ebinger’sBakingCompany

frozenfishsticks

gelatin-basedsalads

grandmapizza

Heinzketchup

HiddenValleyRanchDressing

honeybeesinAmerica

HornandHardart’sautomats

“huli”-edchicken

Joefroggers

JucyLucyburgers

macaroniandcheese

meatloaf

NewOrleansVietnamesecommunity

NorthCarolinabarbecue

OberlinCollegediningplan

PillsburyBake-Off

properdiningandtableware

Salisburysteak

sandwiches

ShakerLemonPie

smotheredporkchops

St.Louis–stylepizza

SunbeamMixmaster

sweet-and-sourflavors

sweetenedcondensedmilk

Syracusesaltpotatoes

whoopiepies

RedVelvetCake

Rhubarb-StrawberryCompote

Rice


Ricottacheese


SkilletLasagna




RoastedSalt-and-VinegarPotatoes

RoastLemonChicken

Rosemary-ParmesanPotatoTots

RoundSpritzCookies

Rum

JoeFroggers

SSalads

Chicken,Chinese

GrilledCaesar


Potato,All-American

Potato,Amish

Potato,Dill

Potato,Ranch

Potato,Texas

StrawberryPretzel


SalisburySteak

Salmon,Wood-Grilled

Barbecued

Lemon-Thyme

Salsa

One-Minute

SantaMaria

Verde

Verde,Smoky

Salt-and-VinegarPotatoes,Roasted

Saltpork,about

SaltPotatoes,Syracuse

Sandwiches

BaltimorePitBeef


PattyMelts

seealsoBurgers

SantaMariaSalsa

Sauces

Bourbon

BuffaloBlueCheese

Cider

CurriedChutney

Honey-Mustard

HorseradishCream


One-MinuteSalsa

SalsaVerde

SantaMariaSalsa



SmokySalsaVerde

Steak

Classic

Garlic-Parsley

SpicyRedPepper

SweetandSour

Tartar,CrispyFishStickswith

Tiger

White

seealsoBarbecueSauces

Sausage(s)


andCornbreadStuffing

CreoleBakedStuffedShrimpwith

Gumbo


Milk-CanSupper

andPepperOmeletFilling

andPeppers,SkilletLasagnawith




Spanish-StyleGrilledPotatoHoboPacks

ShakerLemonPie

Shellfish.SeeShrimp

Sherry

ChickenDivan



Shrimp

BakedStuffed

BakedStuffed,Creole,withSausage

Gumbo

NewOrleansBarbecue

skewering

Skewers,Grilled

Caribbean

JalapeñoandLime

RedChileandGinger


SkilletLasagna


SkilletPeachCobbler


Slaws


TangyAppleCabbage











SmokySalsaVerde

SmotheredPorkChops

Soups

Slow-CookerFrenchOnion






Spanish-StyleGrilledPotatoHoboPacks

Specialtypieces,ratingsof

SpicyHomeFryGrilledPotatoHoboPacks

SpicyRedPepperSteakSauce

SpicyThaiGrilledThin-CutPorkChops

Spinach

ChickenFlorentine

andTomatoLasagna

Spoonbread,SweetCorn

Spoonbreads,Individual

Squash.SeeZucchini



SteakSauce

Classic

Garlic-Parsley

SpicyRedPepper

Stews

GuinnessBeef

Gumbo

seealsoChili

Strawberry(ies)

DreamCake

Pie,Icebox

PokeCake

PretzelSalad

-RhubarbCompote

SummerBerryPudding

Stuffing

CornbreadandBacon

CornbreadandSausage

Skillet-RoastedChickenwith

SummerBerryPudding



SweetandSourSauce

SweetCornSpoonbread

SweetPotatoes

CreamyMashed

HerbedMashed,withCaramelizedOnions

SmokehouseMashed

Swisscheese


PattyMelts



TTacos

Chicken,Easy

Fish,California-Style

TandooriGrilledChickenWings


TartarSauce,CrispyFishStickswith

TennesseeWhiskey

about

PorkChops


TexasBarbecueSauce

TexasPotatoSalad

TexasSheetCake

Thermometersandtimers,ratingsof

TigerSauce

Toasted-CoconutBananaPudding

Tomatillos

about

SmokySalsaVerde

Tomato(es)


GrandmaPizza

Gravy,SwissSteakwith

Lasagna,Spinachand

MacaroniandCheesewith


One-MinuteSalsa

SantaMariaSalsa


SkilletLasagna







Tools,handy,ratingsof

Tortillas




EasyChickenTacos


TresLechesCake

TunnelofFudgeCake

Turkey,OldFashionedRoast,withGravy

UUltimateCinnamonBuns




VVeal

SkilletLasagna

Vegetables

Root,One-PanRoastChickenwith


seealsospecificvegetables

Vinegar

andOnionGrilledPotatoHoboPacks

primeron

WWalnut(s)

–BrownSugarCookies

MorningGloryMuffins

TunnelofFudgeCake

WhippedCream,Bourbon

WhippedPotatoes

WhiteSauce

WhoopiePies

Wood-GrilledSalmon

Barbecued

Lemon-Thyme

ZZiti,Slow-CookerBaked

Zucchini


PHOTOCREDITS

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