Cook's Illustrated 075

7/22/2019 Cook's Illustrated 075

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N R SV Y-FV JY b A S

I L U S T R A T E D

BBQ Puled Chicken

Backyard Grlled

PizzaCrisp, Chewy, and Ea

Grillig Pork Loin

Blueberry BuckleButte Cake, Crunchy Streusel

Tastig Whiteine Vinegars

Best Brands for Cooking, Saads

Illusrated Gue toEssential Coowar

Ratig Ove MttsAre High-Tech Designs Worth $

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2/36

July August 05

2 Notes from ReadersReaders ask question s and suest solutions

4 Quick TipsQu ick and ea ways to peror eveday tasks rocoing toatoes and washing herbs to aplying spice rubsand h usking co

6 Gill-Roasted Pork LoinInexensive and ea to ind a bonel ess pork loin roastsees nicely suted to grling Why ten is it so oten dryand lavoless? B Y E ZA B E H GE M A N

8 Perfect oliWhen a king this si pe enc ce te key is toavoid a bitter garlic atertasteBY SAAH WSON

9 Restaurant-Style riled

Pizza at Homeut or bla nd ost hoeade veions o this restauntcassic cant coe c lose Could we ake gril led pizza asuccess or the bacard cook BY MATHEW CA D

2 Bst Barbecued lled ChickenMost recpes stick wih boneless breasts and bottledsauce How about a barbecue sandwich that rivals pulledpok in a ction o the tie? BY SEAN AWE

IS Simple Fruit SalsasMushy and bl and or just pla n weird ost ruit salsas issthe ark So how do you ake a siple one with clearreeshn g avor? BY MAHEW CA

6 A Ge o EsseniaCookwareo outit your kitchen witho ut breaking the bank i nvest incoo be an d versatile He res our asterlist o what to buy and why BY SEAN AWE

8 Tai Chile Bee at omeThis dis h oers an eotic change o pace ro Ch inesestir-ries ut who has shrip paste taarind pulpgalangal and p al sugar pus three ho urs to ake dnner?BY EBECCA HAYS

2 Veggie Brgers Worth therobletore-bought veie buers border on inedible but osthoeade renditions are a lot o work Could

we develop a recipe that was really worth the eort?BY SAAH WISON

22 Improving Blueberry BucleHow can a si le yelow cake batter support an en tirequart o blueberries without turning heavy and so?ink cooke dough BY DAWN YANAG HAA

2 Buildig a Bette BondieHad a chewy ull -lavored bondie lately? No?Wel neither had we BY MATHEW CAD

26 reat Witess white wine vinegar a generic coo di? r doesbrand atte? We discovered the answers i n a bott le onailpolish reover BY JOYO HEEMAN

28 Mitt aradeven itts once cost no ore than the undaynewspaer but today a high- tech pai r runs Webraved trias by ire water and grease to uncover the(ve) painul truth B Y J OY ON HE E M A N WHG A H C N G N G S M I H

3 Kitcen Notsest results buying tips and advice related to stories astand present directly ro the est kitchenBY DAWN YANAGI HAA

32 Equipent CoerReviews o new ites udates on past tests and sources

or products used in this issueB Y G A H C I N G I N G S M H

UU he ail iar garden (o r Aerican) cucuber has a thick dark green skin a n isost oten used in salads and cudits Mild sweet Engish (or hothouse) cucubers are culti

vated to produce thinner skns and ewer seeds Japanese cucubers are long and sender: used

eeon they add crunch and lavor to olled sushi The sall thin editerranean cu cuber isfirly stigh and s uicy ther han te ven sale r are resh coichon s whic h are al ost

always seen in t heir pickled or he ost co on ly used pickling cu cu ber is the Kirby easily

recognizable or its squat war appearance Leon cucubers colored and shaped like their

naesake ar e ve seedy yet de licaey lavored

i

(oJ z Bnn B n) n Bn

r list rental information, contact: Clientogc, 1200 Habor Bvd. 9th Floo Weehawken NJ 07087 20186-800 20186724.Ediorial Oice 17 Station St. Bookne MA 0244 67221000 fax 61722-72. Subscption nques call 800268442Postmaster Sen all new oders subscpton nqies an changeof-addess notices to Cook's Ilustated P.O Box7446 Re Oak, lA -0446

COOK S l l f ! T HA t; V

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Fonder and Editor Crstopher KmExective Editor jack Bisop

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Test Cooks Erik BruceGarth CingnsSean werRache ToomeyDiane nger-MNna WesSah Wson

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Kitchen Assistants Mara Elena Del

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Chief Financial Oicer San CaboControler Mandy Sito

Staf Accontant Maa SantosoOce Manager Saudiya Abdu

Receptionist Henrietta Mur

Plici Deborah Broide


3/36

ORL

ON THE RAD T MRCC

ny of our fmily vctions rebest remembered throug

glss dry, yers er the fct,hen the fmily lbum fils to

mind us of the moments best forgotten. Butery once in hile, one of our fmiy vc

ons ctully bers fruitthe seet vriety,ot n unripe tropic specimen. In Mrch, eung cution to the ind nd decided to trerough the Sr Desert in Morocco, nere Algerin border. Three plnes nd 24 ourster leving Boston, e ended up in the streets Mrrech, triling the doney crt tht he d

ur luggge through the nrro streets of thed city on the y to our riad, sml hotel tht

s once privte home.I m not one to tour plces nd other rcicturl monumentsjust give me sometingood (nd unusul) to et. This, of course, is n oen fet hen you re trveling ith youngidren nd locl guides ho prefer to steereir clients to the most Europen eteries.es, you cn order spghetti Bolognese nd

zz in tourist cf fronting the mjor plzthe old city.) But Mrrech did eventully

me through in the food deprtment. Freshueezed ocl ornges ; yogurt lighty seetenedth rose ter; the ocl tbreds; coconutoies; lmb tgine it fresh lmonds; se

s of grond, spiced lmb; nd pastilla thicnce-style pstry lled ith ground met,ices, nd nuts.The next dy e piled into to Lnd Roversd heded southest, trough the ig Atlsd don tord Ourzzte. By the ernoon ,

e hd e the pved rod behind nd ere ontrc tht ound round od mud nd ttlens built into the sides of ble mountins,th serpentine river vlleys, lush nd green,lo. (Locls te the bus to the end of te

ne, here they sitch to doneys. The nimlse rrnged in stnd much ie txis . ) The

y is consed memory of ercely hndsomeerber children, gotherds nd shepherds, nd

doneys tted out ith metroof rcs" t ht let them trns

port huge ods offorge.The next dy, t the til end of

sunset, e nlly mde our yinto the dese rt nd to our cmpsite. E ussein, the sprightly72-yer-old cme river, siting (he hd led threedys to meet us) ong ith hisfour cmels. (As rm-boodedcretures go, by the y, cmesre qite inteligent. They droorther thn spit, their legs fold

Chrisopher Kimbal

he loc Berber dilect spby the coo, ussein, n

guide, Muhmmed, puted by exubernt expref In shllh. " An hour pthe sun is ebbing, nd I tht I m sitting bove pool of time , s if the dyees hve ed the rest oorld, sirling to stop ot sun-drenced lndhere there re no shdos told tht the Berber

up lie ln chirs hen they sit, they enjoy

good rub behind the ers, nd their hge feetspre out lie yest dough s they pop tem o nthe snd . ) The next morning, er brefst oftbred, ornges, nd coffee, e set out overthe dunes, mosty ling, ith rest periodsten on cmebc.

The desert is not just sndbox. The lndscpe vries ildly from the clssic dunes ofLawrence o Arabia to toering blc mountins, prched hite lebeds, sc rub tousndsof smll hite nd bue oers ( hic, oing tomy inccurte trnstion of our guide' s converstionl French, I erroneousy cll oney'sOnion") nd ses of roc nd thorn. Fr on

mountinside, e see dozens of gots grzingnd gotherd stning stil in dr djellaba( robe ) on top of rige. To young boys crossou pth in the midde of nohere nd stopto cht. We come cross n bndoned Berberbeehive oven used to me bred. (The bre d iscooed o ver cos on to p of perfote metshel)

Tht evening I sit on the top of the lrgest dne ner our cmpsite nd tch the sundissove into fr hze. On the next pe, mn is neeling nd prying to Alh. A smllvillge is visible off to the est, tord Algeri.

I count 7 hnd-seched trees in nd roundthe sirl of dunes. I cn h er the murmur of

still nomdic people. else doe s one ive in this timeless lndscp

And then, on the tird dy, it hppenssmp le, ell- prepred food . The loose robeddres ses . The ou rs of ling nd stoing. The front-d- bc rhythm of the cThe o t, seet mint te . The intense vocool, sliced ornge fter lunch. There is sohere tht ech ting becomes importnt.gesture , ech bite of food , nd ec sip ofmtters . A g, dte, hnd of nuts .lern to enjoy the smll things.

We me our y to Fez, ciy mormopolitn thn rrech. We spend ling the bzr nd discover live sncmel' s hed , brightly colore d vts of sop

sil, fruit, mint, sh, live poultry, leter gbrss nd copper pots, seet s street food,i n- t e- ll be ries . . . the senses re emed. We deprt before sunrs , hduffel bgs throg dr, nrro streets . Iith the tste of permed ornges , rose mint, lmonds, sffron, preserved lemonnmon, cumin, nd coconut still lively otngue. But it's the vst, untered meof the desert tht becons, s if I ere lehome for foreign lnd. Te sun is risingin my min d's eye, i t is sing, there is cpryer, men in hooded djellbs fce M

nd there is nlly time to consider everyof snd.

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J L A U S 0 0 5


4/36

D

attle of the Paring Kniveshat i the purpoe of a curved pring knife?

MICHAE HA

CE NRA CI Y, IOWA

A variation on te tandrd paring knife, ird' be," or tourne," pring knife ha to 3inc blae nd forwrdcurving, hooked It i tical ued for peeling, cutting, and

moving urface bemihe from rounded fruitd vegetable nd for crving tourned (even

ded, footbalaped) vegetble a ell a intrite grnien informal pol taken in te tet kitcen indited that mot of our tet cook do not own d' bek pring nife Mot of thoe who dod the ue it rrel and own it onl becaue itme prt of et Still, we wondered f tiife offer n dvantageWe timed four tet itcen taffer a theeled pear onion, peeed and liced apple, ndurned pottoe uing our top-rated Forchnerictorinox) pring knife well a a Forchnerd' bek pring knife We lo ked teter toe the to knive eeling onion a a to-up,d teter preferred a traditional paringife when peeling apple Wencame to te tourne tet,ever, mot di

efer the bird'a nif .

Doe s you paing knifenee a beak?

ur concluion? Depite aving ight advange over a trdtionl pring nife hen it come

tourneing, the bird' beak nife failed tonerte much upport from the kitchen taferone felt tat a regular pring knife wa more

an adequate even for thi delicte (nd rrelled for) tak

Hv Hv our MJune 200 3 iue, er tting var tomato pate, ou elected Amore tenner I it correct to ume tat becaue it ube concentrted, te amount ued in rec can be haved?

ODD CARON

ARINON EXA

Wen ou ue ultra-concentrated liquid laun detergent in plce of the regular variet, it tae product to wah the ame mount of clothing

S A N R A W :

Unfote, the ame principle doen 't ppl totomato pte Baed on our experience, ore

brn tube tomato pate, tough labeled doubleconcentrated," i not twice a potent a regulrcaed tomato pate In the tatng ou mention,conducted for our Weeknigt ata B olognee recipe (MaJune 2003), we ued te me mountof each brand of tomato pate

We reviited the iue b conducting a couleof viul tet wit Amore and one of te cnnedbrnd, Hunt', to ee if the Amore w drer (ndthu more concentrated) Sde-b-ide poonlof Amore and unt' were both thick and tiff,ech one ticking to the poon even when turnedupide down The A1ore wa ligt thicernd more vibrant red tn the mute, drerHunt', wich alo had a few liquid pocketNext we placed ve eve !-tablepoon ampleof each brand on eet of inge-pl paper towend let tem it for an hour Neither t1e tubednor t1e cnned ample exuded muc liquidonlperhp a millimeter could be detected extendingbeond te border of te pat blob

Wie we don 't recommend uing lf muchAmore wen tomat o pte i clled for in recipe ,

we til recommend Amore over the oterix brand we teted (including Hunt') forit eer, ler tomato avor And becaue

it' packaged in a tube, Amore lack the inn

ertate that plague man cnned tomto pateJut ignore te double concentrated" abelingnd ue te amount called for in the recipe

Cheese wth an shy DispositionI've oen een a-covered got cheee beindte cheee counter at m ocal gourmet upermaret Wat i the ource of the ah I it edibl e,or hould it be crped o

O D D V A NA D I O K

CHCAGO I

Te light aer of h that cover ome goatceee ( both aged and freh) i indeed edib le ndhoud no be ced of The h i made fomburnt vegetal growth ( uch a ite pine, juiperwood, eggplant, bell pepper, vine cutting, ndeave) tat i pounded until it chieve a ne,powder conitenc

According to Ihan Gurdal, cheeemker ndowner of Formaggio Kitcen, a nefood purveor with tore in Boton nd Cambridge,a , the French deveoped ti method of covering got cheee, and te Spniard followedhort t1ereaer The ah, id Gurdl, i uedfor ethetic purpoe rther than to vor te

K'

s I L L S R A

2

ASH-COVEED GOAT CEESE

Sooe fo hu man consu mpion

ceee Simir to got ceee covere inuch curr powder or cenne pepper, tdoen't de or peed up rind deveomact a a barrier gint mod

Famou French h -c overed goat cincude te clindrica SintMure andihped SeleurCer o the Loire VDometicl, there i Humboldt Fog, anh-covered goat cheee ened b an ddne laer of a dividing te top nd bhemiphere of te ceee

Nick Don't SlashWhen checking to ee if cut of meat icientl cooked, ou ve ugeted te and-peek" method O n te oter and, ocl for etting meat ret er cookng to pthe lo of juice that il occur i f it' cut intoaw Doen't te nicand-peek meod nor diminih t1e potenti benet of allowimeat to ret?

ONAHAN OAMORD

The mot accurate method of tetingfor donene i to ceck it intern tempeuing an intant-read thermometer ening a particuarl tn pece of met, howit' difcult to ue termometer, o nckimeat with paring knife i our recommalterntive

Curiou to whether ti metod reuan ignicnt moiture o, we prepreample each of -inch -tic pn- riedte (cooked to medium-rre, or 30 degan-ered ovenoated ork ende(cooked to medium, or 40 degree), ndroted chicken breat (cooked until well or 60 degree) We ued bot metodmometer and pring ifeto tet for doand meured te amount o f lqui expeedeach mple hd reted for bout 0 iBot tri tek exuded equ amount of(2 teaoon), while the ork tenderloin cuing te nick-and-peek metod lot temore juice, nd te nicked cicken bret tepoon more


5/36

Wh the difference? Because the pork ande chicen were more ll cooked than theediumrare steaks, it was necessar to makerelativel deep cut to determine doneness. Inese cases, then, there is more moisture oss, soe recommend the thermometer method. Savecking and peeking for sh and thinner cuts ofeat where a shallow slash will work just ne.

hat's the best wa to store celer? I never mane to nish a whole bunch before it goes bad.

CARO PAl

PISBRGH PA

To answer our question , we took ve bunc hesceler (with the outermost stalks removed),

ch wrapped in a different wa, and stored themthe reigerator. We placed one bunch in a paperg, wrapped another in aluminum foil, wrappedother in plastic wrap, returned another to its

ginal perforated plastic sleeve, and placed thet one upright in a container holding about 2ches of water.At the end of one week, the celer in the paperg was still green but slightl limp, the cele r ine original plastic packaging was slightl morendable and faded in color, and the bunch ine water even more dried outthese methods

allowed too much moisture to escape; theer became limp as it dehdrated. The plas- and foil-wrapped celer, however, remained

mazingl green and rm. Given another week,

A ?

I came aross sevel of these utensils one day while

diing around in my gndother's old siveare set.

Is it a spoon or a fork?

J ESSICA ACHARCD E NC

Wih is foklike eges, h is olfashione ice ceam spoon igs ino even he iciesice ceam.

onl the foilwrapped celer was still mo stl greenand crisp.

Wh did t1e fol work so well while t1e plasticwrap eventuall failed? Celer continues to resp ireaer it is harvested and produces small amountsof the ripening hormone ethylene Ths gas activates enzmes that break down and soen the cellwalls in celer, creating moisture loss. thleneeasil gets trapped when celer is wrapped tightl

in plastic, causing the vegetable to go limp andspoil faster than when wrapped in aluminum foil,which is not gas tight."

In a pinch, ou ca n alwas revive waward celer stalks b cutting off abou t an inch om bo thends and submerging the stalks in a bow l of icewater for 30 minutes. But to prolong freshness,we recommend wrapping celer in foil.

Alternative MilksCan lactose-free or nonrefrigerated boxed milkbe substituted for regular milk in recipes?

K AH S CH O E N E

NORH ANDOVER MASS

Initiall, several members of the test kitchenstaff made faces at the prospect of cooking withthese untraditional milks, but ultimatel theadmitted to being curious about t1e potentialresults. We pitted Hood whole milk (our localregular" brand) aganst whole milk versions ofLactaid and armalat in three applications: s cones,a ellow laer cake, and a bchamel sauce.

After sctching our heads trying to guess what

your on ogramm ed utensi l was used for we wa lked a

few blocs from our oces to see antique dealer and

appiser Toby ngeran of the Atique Copany in

Brooklne, Mass., for a consultation.

According to ngeran, this utensilwith a 3inch

hande and a shallow head, or bowl, about 2 inches

long and I inches across its widest pointis a spoonprodued in the early 1900s for the soe purpose of

eating ice cream ngeran speculates tat ice crea

may have been icier or harder than most of the o

meria varieties that exist today and so the spoon's

forked edges coud have been usefu for ding into

e conecios.

We were slightly wary o hose sharpooking edges

before trying the spoon but it ended up being just

about as dangerous as a fork The spoon did a good job

o cutting through a scoop o ard, resh-from-the

freezer ice cream, but we wouldn't recomen d using

it with looser or softer desserts like granita, sorbet,

or gelato. Its bowl isn't deep enough o capture the

eted drbbl bs.

J L b 1 S 0 0 5

GOT M I LK?

Can ei he of hese milk su bsiues compwih he eal hing?

Straight from the carton, Lactaid tenhave a slightl sweeter lavor than regularThis is because of the added lactase , an enthat breaks down lactose (the sugar foumilk) into two sweeter-tasting siple sugarlactoseintolerant individuals can easil dNot surprisingl, the scones and ellow cakewith Lactaid tasted sweeter than those mad

regular milk, and some tasters preferred On the other hand, the bchamel madeLactaid was booed for having an odd that one taster described as k ind of rankseveral others sipl found too sweet."

armalat, a shelfstable boxed milk thabe kept for up to six months unopeneunrefrigerated b ecause of treatment with a ultra-highheat pasteurization process, lacfresh taste of regular milk and has a avor closer to that of cooked mil k. N onetheless , found that scones and cake ade with awere ver similar in avor to those made wiular whole milk. A few people noticed a s

off avor in the bchamel made with arcalling it nk," must," and tang."tasters, however, thought the bchamel with armalat was just ne.

To sum up, sweet baked goods made witose-free or boxed milk are just as good assome think even better thanthose madefresh milk. In savor applications, boxed mO if fresh milk isn't available, but avoidlactose -free milk unless a sweet -salt result intended goal.

Juicers on the WebFollowing publication of the What Is It?in the JanuarFebruar 200 5 issue, maners wrote in to praise the virtues of theiear ver uers, whh seeral eole as being their favorite juicer. Although this no longer being anufactured, a search rethat it is available for sale on several Web asites, eBa among them.

SEND US YOUR QUONS We will provie aenta on e-year subscription or each letter we print Sinqui nae, aress, an aytime telephone nuber toro Reae, Cooks llustte, P.O o 59 M or to notesroreaers@bcpressco


6/36

icking More anOne epperRunn ing ou o he soe eachime you nee a iny chil e

peppe can be a pain. SusanPieon of Doylesown, , buysae bags of peppes an soes

hem in he feeze. When shenees a choppe o mincepeppe fo a ecipe, she akes saigh fom he feeze o acuing boa.

eain eYo Gs

To gsp lgheght tes that areust out of reach Jennfer Hllwg

Bdent Fa sdsp er

tepstool favor f anot ktce

oola par ns They'r or gbbng tns ke bags o astaereal boes or spcs fro th op

helvs of te cuboard or ant

COMPI L B Y I KA BUC

eeess jaae i nsTo ake neat ngs of jalaeos wthout the seeds o spcy bs when gashngnachos and the lke Nate Cobb of Jamaca Plan Mass emloys a veetabe eeler

I

2.

Cut o the ste end of th jalapo wth a knfe then nsert th eeler dow ntothe chle Usng a crcular oton coe the pepe and pull out the rbs ad seeds

2 Shke a ang ses ou o e cl te slce t nto ns

Homemae Ice cksKaheine Connell of Skowhegan, Maine, go ie of filling an emping icecube ays when socking up on he ice she uses o chil beveages when having apa. N ow she ma kes he own ice packs wih zipelock bagsa n hey keephings cool a l o longe han ice cubes o.

I Fill qua o gallonsize zippelockbags o wihin inches of he o

I

wih wae. Tha way he ba gswon' bu s when he waeexpans as i feezes.

2 Pace he bags i n he feeze,leing hem l ie fla so hey can besacke, heeby makng he moseconomica l use of feeze space.

en s ur We wi provide a compimeta oeyear sbscriptio or each tip we prit Se d your tp, a e, ad address touik ps Cook's ustrated P.O o 4089, rookie 044, or to quicktps@bcpress com

O K'

S I S R

Crn sking Mae EasHusking con is no one'sfavoie job, bu ' s one haShaon Guiis of Kalispel l , Mohas mae mu ch easie .

I

2.

I Wih he husk sill aacheoff boh e s of an ea of conseae kni fe woks bes2. Roll he ea on he counehe husk comes igh o. F nishemoving any emain ing heaof silk.

i Instead of lettng any of the sooleft behnd the blender met ango to waste Maa Skypczajko o

Nelson Brtsh Columba freezes

n Popscle olds (or 3ounce wa

paer cus) She lets the "pos f

aray before placng a Popscle

n the ddl then freezes them

and soeone wan a quck s

L


7/36

an Garae Dissa keep he wk aea lean and save

eelf a few ps e gabage ane Taahash f San Deg Cal f

us a supeake plas bag n ne

alf f he snk when pepang pes.

en she s nshed pung sps ne bag she seals elnae d,

hen sses n he gabage an.

o with the Frit on Topnn Fenni ngkossuh, of llson,Mass . foun an aacive way oee yogu wih he fui on opnsea of hien a he boom.

Open he yogu conaine anlip i upsie own i n a seingowl. Punch a small hole in he

boom wih a paing kni fe oelease he vacuum. f he con ain e saigh o

eaving he yogu an fui b ehin .

ha ker for pie bsTo H . D iich of Fo Thomas , Ky foun a cl eve use fo em p soebough spice jas.

2.

I Genly py he peo e li o he ja efil l wih you favoie home maespice ub an snap he l i back in place.2. The spices can now be applie mo e evenly on he mea.

issae asi sh

Easier er Washin Lesle Makenze f Sana ClaaCalf uses a sala d spnne wahebs. One e ebs ae lean

sply lfs he baske w e u f e d wae dsads

wae fs e baske bak n base and spns e hebs dy.

Whle babeung hken n a een apng p Msa f Ls Angeles Calf fund eelf whu a bus ne

apply he saue. Relyng n ngenu she ade gd use f he nuss a e dspsal

2.

I Gahe a fsful f huss and e he gehe a ne ed wh a n addnal usk.2 T ake e bus bsles f y e lse huss a e ppse end Te e ddle w ane husk seue3 Dp e husk bus n yu saue and apply he fd; when fnsed yu an jus ss u e bus

Qiker Tom atCoring

A Dawn Jacobson ofVallejo Calif., founanohe u se fo he lagesa ip she ges ou ju sonce a yea when usin g apasy bag o make spi

cookies: coi ng omaoes.She p ieces he omaoa he sem sca wih hepoine en of e ip,gives i a wis, an useshe ip o cu ou anemove he coe.

B Tanya Seife of H owell Mich . employs a similaecniue wih an applecoe whic h she inseshalay ino he omao.

Y S 0 0 5

Mixin Nat ant Ds nase f kenhea, u

UK fund a way enpe

laye f l a sepaes f napeanu bue. Use nly ne webeae ahen n yu andxe aefully x n lw unl peanu bue s hgenus.


8/36

rill-Roase Pork LonIexpese a eas t a beess pk ast seems ce ste t g g

te s t s te a aess?

he affordable and widelavailable pork loin roa ia popular cut to grill. Theobviou probem, however,

that tod' leaner pork drie outniderabl when cooked with thiheat method. Saa i the culinaroundrel' olution, but I wnted tovetigate the heart of the matter andoduce an aromaic roa with a deepown crut and ucculent, mokevored mea.

Wht i loin roat? Two muclen along the back of a pig. The larger,nger mucle i impl referred to ae loin and the maller, horter one,e tenderloin, which i more tenderd le avorl.

B Y I ZA BT GRM I N E

Butcher tpicll cut and merandie a loin roa in three ection.oe to the houlder i he bladed (blade refer to the houlderade) Moving down the back of heg ou nd the center cut, which ie mot expenivecomprable tobeef prim w d bonein.he third and lat ecion i clled theloin. ere the loin mucle taperf and ret above the enderloin.

iig sus a uicy oast whi a gous dos o coasgoud hs cat a avou cust

hen the irloin ection i cut into roat orop, par of the enderloin i included Thenderoin mucle can be purchaed eparatel abonele roa, but it houd not be conedth he larger loin roat, the roat tht i thebjec of hi article.I wondered i f one o f thee three roatthe

ade end, he center cut, or the irloinwa bet uied o griling than the other, o I boughtthree cu and put them to he tet. The irloin

at wa quickl eliminated. It two relativele muce cooe at vt dierent pee. Iought the centercut roat, with it one ttrace large mucle, would e the favorite, but tat found i meat pale, dr, and bland, epeciallen compared wih the meat from the bldeat, which wa richer in avor and relativeloit. Containing mall part of vriou houlderucle tht are redder and more brou than thentr t t blad roat wa favorabl likenedthe dark mea of chicken. The fat pocket

at eparate the different mucle added moit and avor. I wa the handdown winner.

Grillng It RightFir I tried to grill blade roat directl overa ho re, but the ouide corched before heinide w cooked through. The reult wa 1eame when I tried o grill the meat directl over amodert re I quick moved on to grillroating,n indirect heat approach in which a covered grillcreate an ovenlike environment. I banked the litcoal on one ide of the ketle, leaving the oeride emp, then placed t1e loin roat over he

emp ide, covered the grill, and le e roatto coo. ow it ced crip crut, n 1e iecloet to he coa cooked fater.

I ried again, thi time earing all ide directlover e hot coal before moving he roa to ecoalfree ide of t1e grill. Then, haa roughcooking, I ipped it o at bot1 long ide of eoin pen time cloe to t1e coal. Fort minuteinto cooking, the crut wa well browned and themeat w done.

I wa well on m wa to ucce, but m tter kept complining about dr met, a common problem wi toda' lean por. In e tet

K ' s I S R

kichen, we nd at lean por roa andhould dipla a hint of pink when liced . interna temperture of 50 degree iBecaue the temperaure coninue o cimroat ret, I found it bet to take 1e mea ogril when it hit e. hi ep helalleviate the drnebut no enough.

Adding Moisture and Enhancing FlavorI tried the tet kitch n' favorie approimproving texture : brining. Sur e enough, rot produced rave review. The mea wa

moit, and even more avor.Up until now, I had been impl ea

the outide of the roat wi pepper ( econributed enough lt), bu perhap I up e ante a bit. eeping ing imple, uing a coarer grind to crete a pepper calo developed to pice rub variaion otheme. ) Finll, I had found e grill roaeloin I wa erching for. A deep brown, pcrut perfectl blanced e weet, juic m

G R I L L R OA ST D P O R K L O I N F O R

C H A R C O A L G R I L L

SERVES 4 O 6

If onl enhanced" pork i avalable (it wtted on the label), do no brine he Intead, impl add tablepoon koher t1e black pepper eaoning.

Wi minor recipe adjumen, a roa an the one called for can be cooked uiame meod. For each addiiona pound oover 3 pound (do no ue a roat arger pound), increae the al in e brine band the waer b l quar; alo increae tand pepper b l eapoon eac (i uing arub, increae e recipe b one1ird) Be

e cookng time depend more on he diao te oin an it eng, e cooking im larger roat will no increae ignicanlrotating the roat in tep 5, begin checkininternal temperure er 30 minute of co

% cup able al

bonele blade end por loin roa 2

pound ed wh chen wne a 1-n

inerval ( ee ll uraon on page 7)

2 ablepoon olve ol

ablepoon coarely ground blac pepper

or I recpe p ce rub (recpe follow)


9/36

ork Loin Roasts

LADEED OAur top choice, this cut is

moist and flavorfu

CEER- CU OAOur secod coice this mild

cut ca dry out o the gril

l issolve salt in 3 quats wate in lage conne; subege oast, cove with plastic wap,d efigeate until lly seasoned, 3 to 4 housnse oast unde cold wate and d thooughlyth pape towels.2. ub oast with oil; spinkle with peppe oice ub and pess into eat. Let oast stand atom tepeatue hou.3. Meanwhile, soak two 3-inch wood chunkswate to cove fo hou; dain. About 25

inutes befoe gilling, open bottom gill vents.

sing lage chine state, ignite about 5 quatsacoal, o about 90 individual biquettes, andun until lly ignited, about 5 inutes. ptyals into gill; build odied two-level e byanging coals to cove one-half of gill, pilinge about 3 biquettes high. Place soaked woodunks on coals. Position gill gate ove coals,ve gill, and heat until hot, about 5 inutes;ape gill gate clean with gill bush.4 Grill pok diectly ove e until bowned,out 2 inutes; using tongs, otate one-quaten and repeat until all sides ae well bowned,out 8 inutes total. Move loin to cool side ofill, positioning oast paallel with and as close as

ossible to e. pen gill lid vents halay; coveill so vents ae opposite e and daw sokeough gill. (Intenal gill tepeatue should about 425 degees.) Cook 20 inutes.5 eove cove; using tongs, otate oast 8 0

TNQU TYN PK N

No fcy kots eededjust use double kots tosecure pieces of kitche twie t ich itervls For formtio o buyi twie, see pe

ILO I ROAWith o kinds of muscle

this cut cooks unevely

E D E LO I OADon't be fooed by o

tederoins tied together

degees so side facing e now faces away. Replacecove and continue cooking until instant-eadtheoeter inseted into thickest pat of oastregistes 40 degee, 0 to 30 intes longe,depending on thickness.

6. Tansfe oast to cutting boad; tent looselywith foil and let est 5 inutes . Inte nal tepeatue should ise to 50 degees. eove twine;cut oast into -inch- thick slices and seve.

G R I L R O AS T E D P O R K L O I N F O R G A S G R I L L

. Follow ecipe fo Gill- Roasted Pork Loin foChacoal Gill tough step 2. Soak 2 cups woodchips in wate to cove fo 30 inutes; dain. Placechips in sall disposable aluinu pn .

2. About 20 inutes befoe gilling, placewood-chip pan on piay bune (bune thatwill eain on duing cooking ); position cookinggate. I gnite gill, tun all bunes to high, cove,and heat until vey hot, about 5 inutes. ( Ifchips ignite, use wate-lled spa bottle to extinguish. ) Scape gate clean with gill brush .

3. Continue with ecipe fo step 4, keepinglid down except as needed to check pogess of

pok.

C H I L M U S TA R D S P I C E R U B

M A KE S A O AESOONS

2 eapoon ch l powder

2 eapoon powdered mu ard

eapoon ground cum n

eapoon cayenn e

Cobine all ingedients in sall bowl.

S W ET A N D S AVO R S P IC E R U

M A KE S A O AESOONS

abeoon cumn eed

I h eapoon corande r eedeapoon fennel eed

eapoon ground cn namon

/ eapoon ground al pce

Cobine cuin, coiande, and fennel in sallskillet; toast ove ediu heat until fagant,about 2 inutes, shaking skillet occasionall.Cool to oo temeratue; gid case . Tansfeto sall bowl; sti in cinnaon and alspice.

Y b S 0 0 5

7

N QPMN

Rm ot at Th rmo mtrhe o ly wy to esure wel l- cooked rst is thrcostt tempeture moitori, but repetlfti the ld o the rll wreks hvoc o cootimes Could remote theometerwhich t

mts the tempeture from probe iserted i

food to cordless cosolesolve this problem?

fid out, we roud ed up four model s

Wht seprted the best from the worst wthe tsmissio e d the tempetuse

optios Some mode ls trsmitted up to 00 fwhi le the shortest re ws mere 0 feet

fvorite models clerly idicted whe we

moved out of trsmiss o re (so u di se

of wri beeps) the others sim ply cesed f

i displ y l iht bit too subtle

Mor im port is tht some m odel s restri

to fctoy-deteied tempeture settis

sce, if you wt to pull o turkey tderees (which we recommed) usi the WBrbecue Beeper iitl Teometer, the bestc do is set it to " BeefMediu m ( 60 der

or "BeefWell Doe ( 70 derees) I t c' t b

to 165 We ue you ot to use the "Turkey se

(prommed t prchily d 1 80 dees)

the ed, we liked the Tylor thermom

best The provided temperture uidelies c

overridde to set y temperture, the r

mple (up to feet) , d the ippble p

smll eou h ot to hi der im promptu m

ctch Gth Ciismith

OT TO T

AYLO Wireless OvenThermometer with Re moteger 3.9 9

A dece t re, d the res cler

i di ctio whe you move out of it

Plus, you c set i t to y tempeture

TT O

MAVECK Remote SmokerThermometer 39.99

The re (dvertised t I 00 feet,

0 feet i testi) l im its its useful

ess, b ut secod probe mesures

mbie t ri l l temperture

N TO O O T

EBE Barbecue Beeper

Digital Therometer 3 .9 5Gret re, but t's ot obvious

whe you ve left it Preset temperture lerts re l imiti

T K

BOOKONE Grill AlertTalking Remote Thermometer7500

Sme problems s the Weber Forthe extr 40, c ompu terized voicesys, "Your etre is redy reepy


10/36

Perec A1oiWhe makg th s Fech co d m et, the ke s to aod a b te ga c atetaste

The term a"oli is derived from te Frencwords ail meanig garic," and oliwhicis Provenal for o i " oli is an emulsionsauce tat tradtion is he centerpiece

a simple supper served wit cooked vegealesd poatoes and steamed sh Consistig of onfew ingredients-ive oi, garlc, egg olk, andmon juiceoli can be delgh smoot andmple when made proper Wen it's made adl,

wever, the overwhelmig impression is one ofrlic: itter, shap, ad onglastingAer making multiple atches, I was morean familiar wih tis common complaint oli

aditionall makes use of raw minced garic (itfrom galic tat it proudl gets its deningvor), but imperfectl minced garlic uined thexture and le oversized pieces that explodedthe mou like garlic oms I needed a nence and a more reliae sstem for producingThe answer turned out to be a good garlic

ess or a rasp-stle zestergater I also discoved that it is important to remove he bittereen germ (if there is one) that uns down thenter of the cloveow the sauce was smooth and te garlic weltribute, b he favor of t1e raw garlic stillemed overwhelming Wh not, I thought,

ok it rst? I roasted, toasted, and simmeredoves in oil, but tasters crit icized ever batch foring land I tried coong half of te garlic andving the rest raw, ut this didn't work eit1errced back to tradition, I tried far less garlic than

ost recipes suggest A single minced clove gavee aoli pleasant heat ithou the shock vaueMost recipes use emon juice to cut thoug

e cloing richness of the oi and egg olk, ute lemon can add sour notes, too I added a bitsugar to offset the bitterness and found at Iw had a clean, right, and alanced sauce The biggest ingdin y oume in aoli ise oil f the different ois te ste d, I was shocked

a reguar (not extra-virgin) ure olivewas the tasters' faorite It gave the sauce

d and a slightl fruit avor tha compleented the lemon a g xravrgin olive

ettng t he arl ic Rght a st ali , it is essentialince te ali veyely, al st t aste We ely n alic pess asp gate

3 Y S A A I L SO N

Grlc l perks up blced reen bes nd b lednew pttes.

oil, usuall preferred in raw sauces because of itsstronger, fruitier avor, imparted too much of

its own distinct character and was ruled out asoverpowering Vegetable oil, to m geat surprise,was liked for its pure cean avor, but the saucesmade with it lacked both the d epth and caracterone expects from aoli Supplemented wit1 someextravirgin olive oil, however, vegetable oil wasjust as good as regular olive oil

I focused next on te mixng met1od In teender, te emulsion ecame so thick it seizedte lades isking b hand worked beautill,ut aer four minutes, m arm was ver tred Thefood processor, which pulled t1e sauce toget1er injust 3 0 seconds, was m top choice

ALM A K E S A B O C

Us e this sauce as a condiment fo meats, sh , andvegetables or spread it on sandwiches If necessar, remove the green germ (or stem) in thegarlic e fore pressin g or grating it; the germ willgive the aoli a bitter, hot avor If ou do notave regular olive oil, use a bend of equal artsexta-virgin olive oil and vegetale oil roundwhite pepper is preferred ecause it's no as visie in the nished aoli as lack pepper, ut eiter

K

S I S R

can e used The aoli will keep refigeratedairtight container for up to 3 das

ediu ali lve pee led2 ae egg ys

tablespn plus I teaspn juie I len

teaspn suga teaspn table sat

und peppe, peeabl wite u live il

Press garl ic hroug galic press or ver nel on rasp-sle grater easure teaspoon garic; discad remaining garlic

2 In food processor, comine garlic, emon juice, suga, sat, and pepper to tastecomined, aout 0 seconds Wi machinning, graduall add oil in slow stead streamcess should take aout 30 seconds); scrape sides of owl wih uer spatula and proseconds longer Adjust seasoning with addisalt and pepper and serve

OEMATHM AOL

Serve tis robust aoli wit roasted and g

meats or griled vegetales

Folow recipe for Aoli, adding easchopped fresh rosemar and teaspoon chofresh t1me to food rocessor along with g

AON AOL

Powdered saffron (see page 30) releases ior more quickl than safon threads Ifpowdered safon, stir onl / teaspoon innished aoli, allow it to stand for at least 20utes, then st ir again before serving Safon a nice accompanet to sh and shellsh

In small bowl, comine teasoon sathreads, crumled, and teaspoon oiling et steep 0 minutes Follow recipe for oliing saffron to food rocessor along wit1 trasfer nished aoli to owl, cover wt1 pwrap, and regerate at least 2 hous to allowfron avor to bloom Sti befoe seving

K gives y u free recies li e. Fr urDil li cie, visit .csilusttedc ad key i5 is cie will e availale util ugust 5


11/36

n-y G zz oBu nt n mst me e es ns t s estu nt c ss c cn 't ce c ls

Cu we me g l e pzz success te c c?

M rt gr il led pizza etthe bar impoibl highfor thoe that followedM wife wa a graduate

tudent in rovidence, I, and, depiteeing at broke, we had our heart et oninner at Fono, the etaurant famedor it rutic Italian cooking Ae pinchng our pennie for week, we made rervation and even plurged on a taxi toake u there We ordered their trademakrilled pizza for our rt coure, but it

wan't much to look at when it arrivedaguel haped and tingil topped with acattering of cheee, tomatoe, and herbwondered if we had ut thrown awa5 But the rt bite dipelled m doubt:he lighl charred, cracker-thin crut waacked with avor, and the topping wereerfectl balanced Since then, I have hadrilled pizza in man retaurant and backard, but none ha meaured up What

wa Forno doing o right that everonee wa doing o wrong?I've made hundred of ovenbaked pi z

a and conider melf a prett killedizzaiola, but m rt attempt at grilledizza wa a nightmare The crut burnedat to the gill in the middle but reained

B M A W C A

wa a breeze to work wit and hapelatic and rip eitant than mot baked pizza dough had tied

live oil add avor and richnelean dough In thi cae, a tableponoticeable, but twice that better dough eemed moother, uppler, atick But then I noticed omethinThe dough with the higher amouneemed imperviou to ticking to thWithin 30 econd over the re, theail releaed ther recipe lickdough with oil before grillin to theffect, but I found thi method lare-up a oil dipped onto the hoBetter to bae the protecive oil rigthe dough

aw around the rim, and auce and cheeeripped onto the coal, cauing arm-inge

ng are-up And what wa edible didn'tate ve good Abject failure taght me

Grlld pzza s a ll about prfct chorogphy and a lght hand wthpotntly flavord toppngs

Now tat I had the texure of theright, I reaized that the avor wa meek for grilli ng; the topping and om the hot re overpowered it I'drecipe or two in which whole wheatbuckwheat lour wa added to the an idea I thought promiing The addition tranlated into a urpriing

of avor ettled on a cant tablepwhole wheat our; an more made like an Indian chapati. A little ugarimproved avor and alo helped tthe blond crut (Cooked le thanpizza, griled pizza tend to be a taThe lat touch wa to inc reae the of alt To compenate for the kglo of oppi ng, I wante d thi crun iportant leon: Grilled pizza i not

aked pizzaleave all preconception behindThe demand placed on both the pizza and theook are far different, far more challenging

Crust

wanted to make a imple tomato and cheeeizza, and I knew that gilled pizza wa nothing

wio a eaaing cui' much more1an jut a vehicle for topping Te dough ha

o be manageable, too The batch had madeor trial run clung tenacioul to everthingtouchedough for grilled pizza ha to be lack enough

o be tretched tnthinner than baed pizza,o t1at it can cook through quickl on the grillet trong enough not to rip High -potein breadour generall make a tronger dogh than all

purpoe our, and a head-to-head tet proved itA for t1e ratio of water to or, the wetter thedough, the eaier it wa to tretch and the cripierthe crut, but at a cot: The dough wa intractabltick backed off on the water a little at a time

until t1e dough, t1ough till pett wet, cold beworked without clinging too rml to m hando he couneo

Kneading develop gluten in dough; te longerit i kneaded, t1e tronger the dough I thoughtlowl kneaded dough made in a tanding mixerwold be t1e bet bet for grilling, but, to m urprie once grilled it wa inditinguihable fromdough made in a food proceor in a fraction ofthe time I experimented with different proce ingtime and ettled on mintetie enohfor the dough to become mooth and upple It

y A S 0 0 5

9

more highl eaoned than a baked crut

ireFor t1e ake of tetig, I had been followgrilling meod colectivel embraced b me recipe had reearched The cut i on one ide over a medium-hot, twolevel c, en ie, oe, an nie on ide of the re Thi meod woked, but it limited t1e numbe of pizza I could tcook to one at a time, leaving me tanded gwhile evebod ele tucked into hot pizpancake, grilled pizza are bet eaten SA

I tried a inge-level hot re but oon rt1at thi wa too an approach Sure, cook all for crut at once, but it tookut line-cook kill to keep em om b


12/36

beshti ng Gri e izza

a the pblems we enconterd when maing grilled piaand the steps we now e to avoid them

MI S S A PE N B U R N T SOGGY

Crst is amoeba shaped

Stretching te dogh

and may be traditional b t rll

t ot with a rolling pin eeps it

h more symmetrical Rolling also

sses ot ai r pocets and redces

bing when the dogh is griled

Crst bs in center

The dogh stretches

easily and can get very thin at the

center Using a pa peel o bang

sheet to slide the pia onto the grill

eeps the weight of the dogh from

overstrethng the enter

Crst is so

Monds of slied toma

toes or sace and cheese mae fora mshy mess Modest amonts of

cheese and died tomatoes saltedto dw o moistre add avor

withot weighing down th e pia

erng he emperre of he re mde hehnqe sfer, he exre of he crs s more dense nd less crcery er ryingerl dfferen rrngemens of cols, I d sngle-evel, medm-ho re spred overee-qrers of he goom gve me enough nd rel ese o coo o pzzs once nd

fey zone ono hch cold slde ny crss ere rs of brnng rre b rel hre d nsed of nshng he rs o pzzs mmeely, I oped o grl he oher o crsshefed cruss ed elnd hen op nd nhe pzzs o me Covering he opped

zs h he grll ld for fe mnes rppedugh he o me he oppngs szzle, nd, nmer of mnes, hd for ho pzzs redy

erve

ppingsm my rs sorry emp grlled pzz, I h sndrd pr ng of omo sce ndzzrell ouldn' or; he sce old smso hrogh he hn crs, nd he cheese

ld ooze off no e re The oppngs hd odrer nd more poeny vored so smlleron cold e sed lced esp, mey plm

moes ere he eses sson for sce,

E P BY S T P : G R I L L E D P I Z Z A

hey, oo, rned he crs soggy e eded ndcorsely chopped omoes fred eer eresll oo e I nly red slng he choppedomoes o dr o excess jces, nd he reslsere he es ye I se he omoes n colndernd loed hem o drn for 3 mnes e forelong hem h pper oels The omoesere rmer, drer, nd, mos mporn, morelvorl

As for cheese, oded, so cheeses le fonn, onso, Be Pese, smoed mozzrell,nd Tleggo ll proved beer hn pln mozzrell, h fonn ndng he mos fns To

rond o s rpe , erhy vor, sers sggesed hrd grng cheese Pecorno nd Asgo cmeon lle srong, u ny Prmesn dded jshe rgh noe xng h he fonn smp ed he jo of oppng he pzzs nd mde hescy fonn e ser o or

us o ny her sed good, scerng of orn sl e ves dded he clssc o chd vor I mgh e grlled, u s sllpzz, er ll

ontoy pzzs ere nlly sng lmos s good sh I rememered, hey ere gh o

loo msspen, chr sploched, nd loh lrge les Forno's morphoere rsic; mne ere monsros hpngdogh osde y e grll, h everyhnggong on, s smply oo mch I rogc no he chen nd shped he roll once, ndng h I cold sndch eeen or-dsed s hees of prchmen psc hem le orlls, nd shle hem o

he grllB here s sll he md lng

I red pressng he dogh l h my her srechng , hngs d mprove, nmch I revsed he recpes I hd colleceds h some empl oyed rollng pn to shpcrs echnqe dii ng ecse mes he dogh oo , evelnpf oer coron B h s ng; hgrllng ollng he dogh effecvely forcedhe lrger les nd mde he dogh nform The crs led hen grlledonly enough o lghy pcer he surfcehe rgh mon for n delly crsp ye cexre o I hd ll he vor of e respzz n my on cyrd, h mngmehod nd o he s ff prce g

GED TOATO AND CHE PZZAO C HA COA G

E S F O U R 9 PIZZS

The pzzs coo very qcly on e grefore yo egn grllng hem, e sre o ll he eqpmen nd ngredens yo neehnd Eqpmen ncldes pzz peel or less ng shee) , p r of ongs, prg

lrge cg ord, nd psry rs; ndens nclde ll he oppngs nd smll of or for dsng Tmng nd coordnocrcl; f yo re nsre of yor sill levecoong he rs o pzzs one me, or p to cooig he nl o n ndem

The pzzs re es served ho off he cn e ep rm for o 3 mnesre rc n degree oven Hrdood col nd chrcol rqees or eqlly hchever yo se s mporn h he e spred n n een lyer over hreeqof he gr oom; cols plced n hgherscorch he crs

ape dogh into 4 smooth tight balls Wit pi roll each dogh ball on parhment aper to form inh r ond 3 Stac dogh ronds sepated by parchment Aroals n even ayer over threeqarte of gril nvert dogh rond onto lored peel remove parchment and slide onto grill Coo 2 dogh ronds at once Using tondogh rond and pee to mae sre it's not sorcing f it s coong too fast slde pia to cool part of grll Tnser dogh rond to ctting board browned side p gh rond wit garli oil and top wit ceese mixtre and tomatoes Ret pia to grill and over grll to elp heese met

K

S I S R A

1


13/36

Dh2 tablespoo s extravirgi olive oil

cup 8 ouc es) water roo tep erature2 cups ( I I ouces) bread flour plus ore for

work surface

I tablespoo whole wheat flour (optioal)

2 teaspoos sugar

' teaspoos table salt

teaspoo istat east

' pouds plu toatoes ( 5 to 6 ediu)

cored seeded ad cut ito ' ich di ce

teaspoo table salt

6 ouces fotia cheese shredded (about 2 cups)

' ouces Paresa cheese fiel grated

(about up)

recipe Spic Garlic Oil (recipe follows) cup chopped fresh basil le aves

Coarse salt

FOR THE CRT: Combine oi and water inquid meauring cup I n food proceor ed witatic doug bade or meta bade, proce breadour, woe weat our, ugar, at, and eatni combined, about 5 econd Wit macineing, ow add iquid toug feed be; connue to proce unti doug form tac, eatic tat cear ide of worbow, about minte If doug ba doe not form, add more ourtabepoon at a time and proce unti doug baorm Spra medium bow igt wit nonticooing pra or rub igt wit oi Tranferoug to bow and pre down to atten urface;over tigt wit paic rap and et in draeepot unti doubed in voume, to 2 our

2 W en doug a doubed, pre down gen to deate; turn doug ou t onto wor urfacend divide into 4 equaized piece Wit cuppedam, form eac piece into moot, tigt ba Setoug ba on weoured wor urface reoug round wit and to atten; cover ooe

wit paic wrap and et ret about 5 minute3 FOR T TO: Meanwie, to toma

oe and tabe at in medium bow; tranfer tooander and drain 30 minute (wipe out andeerve bow) S ae coander to drin off excequid; tranfer tomatoe to nowempt bow andet aide Combine ceee in econd mediumow and et aide

4. Gent tretc doug round into dibout inc tic and 5 to 6 ince in diameter

Worin one iece at a time and eepin te retovered, ro out eac di to /inc ticne,to 0 ince in diameter, on we oured eet

f parcment paper, dutng wit additiona our needed to prevent cng ( If doug rin

wen roed out, cover wit patic wrap and etet unti reaxed, 0 to 5 minute ) Dut urfacef roed doug wit our and et aide Repeat

wit remainin doug, tacing eet of roedoug on top of eac oter (wit parcment in

between) and covering tac wit1 patic wrap; etaide unti gri i read

5 TO : Ignite 6 quart ( arge cimne) ardwood carcoa or briquette in cimne tarter and burn unti ignited, 5 to20 minute mpt coa into gri and preadinto even aer over treequarter of gri, eavin one quadrant free of coa oition cooinggrate over coa and eat unti gri i medium

ot, about 5 minute (ou can od our and5 ince above gri grate for 4 econd); crapegrate cean wit gri bru

6 Ligt our pizza pee; invert douground onto pee, gent tretcing it a neededto retain ape (do not tretc doug too tin;tin pot wi burn quic) ee off and dicard parcment; care ide round onto otide of gri Immediate repeat wit anoterdou round Coo unti top are coveredwit bubbe ( pierce arger bubbe wit paringnife ) an d bottom are gri mared and carredin pot, to 2 minute; wie round coo,cec underide and ide to coo area of gri ifbrowning too quic Tranfer crut to cutt ingboard browned ide up Repeat wit 2 remain ing doug round

7. Bru 2 crut generou t Spic Garici; top eac even wit1 onequarter of ceeemixture nd onequarter of tomatoe Return pizza to gri and cover gri wit id; coo unti bottom are we browned and ceee i meted, 2 to4 minute, cecing bottom equen to preventburning Tranfer pizza to cutting board; repeatwit remaining 2 crut Sprine pizza wit1 baiand coare at to tate; cut into wede and erveimmediate

G R I L L E D T O M AT O A N D C H E E E P I ZZ AF O R GA G R I L L

Foow recipe for Gried Tomato and Ceeeizza for Carcoa Gri troug tep 4 .

2 Ligt a burner and turn to ig eat,cover gri, and eat gri unti ot, about 5 minute ; crape cooing grate cean wit gri bru

3 Continue wit recipe from tep 6, cooingpizza wit id down in bot tep 6 and 7 andincreaing cooing tme in tep 6 and 7 b to2 minut e, if needed

P I C G A R L I C O I L

E S E N O U G H F O R 4 I ZZ S

4 edi u garlic cloves ic ed or pressedthrough garlic press ( 4 teaspoos)

teaspoo red pepper flakes

cup extravirgi ol ive oil

Coo a ingredient in ma aucepan overmedium eat, tirring occaiona, unti garicbein to izze, 2 to 3 minute Tranfer toma bow

[ A G S 5

Just Giv t DouMany cus nes e u sme ake n g ed fab

I can be eaen am s an m eey scked

u Si Gaic O dessed wh any numb

smle ings he han maes and ch

Fabead can see as a q uic k aeze a

accmanmen a meance is been che cas shu d sil be h enugh gil l mefsh he bes fav and eue g ed a

shu d be seed as sn as ssib e S nkecase sa befe seng

G R IL L ED F L A T R A D

E S F O U R 9 1 N C H F L T B R E D S

recipe rilled Pizza Crust prepared

through step 6

recipe Spic Garic Oi

toppig ( see Toppi g Choices) opti

Coarse sat

Bush giled sides f cuss geneusy

gac i; each eveny wh ne-quae

ing if usng eun fabeads gl;

uncveed un bms ae we bwned

ngs ae heaed hugh I 3 mn

Tansfe fabeads cu ng bad ; eea

emai n ng cuss S n ke fabeads wh s

ase; cu in eces and see mmedaey

unces mesan n ely ged (abu I c

cu caey ched mied h ebs such

hyme aey bas mam and egan

3 abesns sesame seeds med wh I a

sn ched fesh hyme eaves; snkle

beads lighy wih l emn uce befe sein

cu caey ched fesh egan leaveand 6 unces cum bed fe

abesns ched anchves med w

6 abesns ched black geen ves

cu eaed aenade es

For gret petizer or ccopie

dier skip the totoes sip gri

ogh to ke ftred


14/36

est abecue Pue ckenMot reci pe tick with o e e reat a otte au ce . H ow a outa ar ecue awic that r ia pu l e pork i a ractio o the t i me ?

The pulled chicen sandwich is alesser staple of ixieand barbecue shacs, where the ribs andpulled or usually tae center

ge. But om a business standpoin, its ay practica choice for he pitmaster, whodoub has plenty of extra barbecued

cen on hand. The tender, smoy meatmply puled o he bone i n most, so

eds, tossed with tang, sweet sauce, andd high on so white bread wit picle

s and coleslaw. To me, this is the ultie example of tang leovers to anoterl. ll sometimes try it a home, bu not

ng a pimaster (and a Yanee to boo),leover chicen is more oen merely

neless and bland, and a botle of barbesauce oers little help. f waned some

a pulled chicen barbecue, d have o from scratch.

Most of the recipes researched were

Y S A N L A W L

two good-sized chns of hicory orqite, the legs cooed gently bt thorouin about an our and absorbed plensmoe avor along the way.

P ig My Legshole chicen legs ( thighs and drumattached) have great avor, they arecheap (especially when purchased in supermaret "ily pacs ), and themeat is nearly impossibl e to overcoo

the downside, hey are riddled with nective tissue, blood vessels, and inveins of fat, none of which are appetind while te breas is basically onmuscle, te leg s made up of a dozensmaller muscles , wih bers running ewhich way. lso, pulling and shredbreas meat is a snap; handling leg is a chore.

ore han footnotes o recipes for barued chicen tha reated puled chicendwiches as mere leftovers. The feweptions were ae, "quic and easy imi

ons of the ideal , instucting me to griew boneless chicen breasts and hen

hem wih sauce. hs aproach was

A s gi a an sauce and a qu ick shedding echniqu e un eachicken egs in cassic babecue fae

discovered a partia solution oproblem when accidenally overcothe chicen one aernoon. The inemperaure had sho up o arounddegrees ( 5 degrees pas "done for

bu he meat was stil moist. n addmore of he connective tissue hadsolved, so the mea now fell off the in large pieces with only a genle nferior o he real thingno smoe or

apar exture, just pasty botted saucehat itinded me of the crimes committed every dayortherners in he nae of Southern cornad. wanted, at the very least, o tae theed chicen sandwch seriousy. And, lie mosrherners, didnt have day.

oosig Chikeers oved the smoy avor of a whole chicen,c spen abou an hour on the grill, bu

re were wo oems. irs, coordinaig heneness eween reass and legs seemed likerill for pulled chicken l so, here was some

g heartbreaing abou aing a whole grillsed chicken wih cris, mahogany sin andpping i down ino a sandwich. sing parsuld solve boh problems: t woud give mere control over cooing, and would avoiding o deconsuc he perfec aecued bird

ried grilling both whole leg quarters andnein breass; the latter tended to dry ou, so n wih he egs. hese quarers, when cooked

over direc hea, didn deveop much smokyavor in only 3 0 miues, so urned o indirecheat and a "low and slow gril emperature.uring this longer cooing ime, the mea turneddeliciousy smoy and was moist and ender aswel. ( nlike breas mea, dark eg mea can cookfor more han a hour wihou drying ou.) tesed various setups for the charcoal and nallysetled on two piles of coals on ei her side of thegrill, wi he legs in he middle and a drip panundernea . ( uig a of e coas on one sideof he gril produced uneven ea, cooing elegs closes o the coals oo quicy. )

More fat had rendered ou as well, maingchicken les s greasy.

Always impatient, wanted a shortcu oshredding wor once the mea was o he bso tried pulsing the meat in the food proceThis raised a few eyebrows in he es kic" prefer to chew my own food, quippedcoleague when placed a bowl of the saumachine-chopped chicen in ont of her. have looed ie ca food but asters liedavor, and his "ocessed chicken was aasor more sauce an he hand-pued.

ithou any direc hea o sear he mea, A Leg Upere was no need o he legs during -- -------------cooing. n fac, here were advanages o h ik ls ar r tpeeping e egs sn side up for e dura- hi fr this rip hion: The rendered fa om he sin basedhe mea, eeig uicy and peveningi om urning dry and leahery om thehea and smoke. ih wo moderae pilesof charcoa ( aou 40 riquees each) ad

O K S I U S T R A E

2

ar ipsiv arl

i pssibl t vrk

a h av a rih a

flavr that stas p t

sk ad barb sa


15/36

packing up he eovers om his es, ossedogeher he handpued and machineprocessed

baches of chicken . igh away, I noiced ha heombinaion of he wo exures looke beerhan eiher of he wo alonei looke, in fac,us ike puled pork. In adiion o he avorboos, he choppe chicken heped o bind hemixure and made i siffer, so i pied nicey onhe bun insead of sliding off ono he pae .

The nex day, wih his 50/50 mixure inmind, I began separaing he chicken ino wopies as I puled i off he bones. The inac argerpieces were se aside for han shredding, whiehe smaller, crsier bi s wen ino he food proessor for a few quick puses. o ony did hisesu in he perfec exure, bu i aso saved meome preparaion ime.

izing Up the Saceexperimened wih differen ypes of barbecue

auce, incuding hin vinegar and musardbasedaroina-sye sauceshe radiional compe

mens for he rich, l avor of pule pork.Tasers, however, found hese sauces oo overpowering for relaively lean, mild chicken. Theymuch preferred Cook)s exising recipe for quickbarbecue sauce, which has a base of kechup anduice om pureed onions and can be made in lesshan 30 minues . made us a few adusmens ohe consisency, as he exising sauce was oo hicko properly coa he ner shreds of chicken.

My las problem was ha he puled chickenhad cooled o room emperaure once a hehreding work was done. hen I ossed he

pulle chicken back ino he pan wih he sauceo hea i up, he mea aso soened nicey in he

eam generaed by he sauce. las, had barbecued pulled chicken ha was bun-worhy. oba for a orherner !

A R E C U E D P U E D C H I C K E N O RCH A R CO A G R I

SERVES 6 O 8

hicken leg quarers consis ofdrumsicks aachedo highs; oen also aached are backbone secions ha mus be rimmed away. Supermarkes

may also sell chicken legs, which are chickeneg quarers wih he backbone secions areadyemoved; hey require ess rimming and may

weigh ess han l eg quarers. hen rimming hefa from he chicken legs, ry o leave he excesskin inac, as i wi keep he mea mois on he

gri. or equipmen, you wi nee wo 3-inchwoo chunks (we ike hickory or mesquie) and a

6 by 1 2inch disposable auminum roasing pano cach he fa as he chicken cooks.

If you would like o hod he ish once hehicken and sauce are combined and heaedhrough, ransfer he mixure o a 1 3 by 9-inch

gass baking dish, cover wih foi, an place in a250-egree oven for up o an hour. Serve he

Adjusti ng the Texture

Shrdd ig pu ld chick with fors yilds ttctiv strips (ft), but th mt dos 't hod togthr vy w

Pus ig th ch ick i food procssor produ cs soft shrds tht sok up lots of suc but r visully u ppli

Fr bst rsults, us v mix of shrddd d pu sd chic k ( right)

S H R E D D E D P U L S E D H A L F S H R E D D E D H A L F

puled chi cken wih hamburger rols or sandwichbread, pickles, and coles aw.

Ch8 boei skio chicke leg quarters (about

7 pou s total) trie of backboe (see

ill ustratios o page 14) a excess fatTable sat a grou black pepper

SaI large oio pee le a quartered

1/4 cup water

I 1 cups ketchup

1 cups apple cider

3 table spoos Worcestershire sauce

3 tablespoos Dijo ustar

1/4 cup olasses

1 teaspoo grou black pepper

4 tablespoos appl e cier viegartablespoo vegetable oil

2 ediu garl ic cloves iced or presse

through garlic press (2 teaspoos) 1 tablespoos chi l i power

1 teaspoo cae e

Hot pepp er sauce s uch as Tabasco

l FOR THE CHCE: Soak wo 3- inch woodchunks in cod waer o cover for 1 hour; drain .

2 sing arge chimney sarer, ignie abou4 quars charcoa, or abou 80 individual briquees, and burn unil y ignied, abou 1 5minues. Empy coals ino gril; ivide coas inhalf, creaing piles on opposie side s of grill. Pace1 6 by 1 2-inch disposabe aluminum roasing panin cener, beween coal pies. ese one soakedwood chunk on op of one pile (reserve remaining woo chunk). Posiion cooking grae overcoals, cover gril, an hea uni ho, abou 5minues ; scrape grae cean wih gri brush .

3. eanwhile, sprinkle boh sies of chickenegs wih sal and pepper. Pace chicken egs skinside up in singe layer on cener of gril overroasing pan. Cover and cook 30 minues (inernal gril emperaure should regiser abou 325degrees aer 30 minues).

4 orking quicky o preven excess hea los s,remove cover, and, using ongs, roae each eg so

A G S 0 0 5

ha sie facing inward now faces coas; dochicken pieces. dd second woo chunk pile of coals; cover and cook unil insahermomeer in sered ino hickes par oregisers abou 185 degrees, 30 o 40 monger (inerna gri emperaure shou abou 310 degrees). Transfer chicken o boar; e res nil cool enough o han

5 . FOR THE CE: hie chicken ing or cooling, process onion and waer

N Q PMN

Reth i nki ng Roasting RacsOur rcip clls for brbcuig ight chick

th mxim um u mb r tht c ft comfortour gril grt Cou d w us som sort of

hol d mor th ight chick l gs d mk b

cud pul ld c hick for crowd?

Ou r first thought ws rib ck It wor b

ig ck of ribs o its sid d "fii g it ito

fou r slots W hopd tht slid ig th r gs itslot would do th sm for our chi ck But t

wr wful ly cmpd , d th cooki g tim f

mid dl four gs ld bhi d tht of th lth i s s wo lgs i ch s lot workd btttht put us bck whr w strtdcooki

ight lgs i totl

h igious tst cook podrd th

of our fvorit rostig ck, th Norpro No

Rostig ck (9 .7 ) With six "slots, it is th

fct tool for ths job wo lgs i ch s ot m

1 2 fit (d fish cookig) t oc pl to

hug crowd Grth Cligigsith

his roastig rack ca be put t work o tgri l l d urig the rastig "o seas


16/36

cessor tted with steel blade until pureed andture resembles slush, about 30 seconds. assture through ne-mesh strainer into liquidsuring cup, pressing on solids with rubberula; ou should have / cup strained onionee. Discard soids in strainer.

T E C H N I Q U E TRIM M I N G L G Q UAR E S

. hisk onion puree, ketchup, apple cider,rcestershire, mustard, molasses, pepper, andblespoons cider vinegar together in medium

wl. eat oil in large nonreactive saucepanr medium heat until shimmering; add garchili powder, and caenne and cook until

grant, about 30 seconds. Stir in ketchup mix; increase heat to mediumhigh, bring to, reduce heat to medium-ow, and simmer,overed, until avors meld and sauce is sligtlkened, about 5 minutes. You should havet 4 cups sauce. Transfer about 2 cups sauce toing bowl; leave remaining sauce in saucepan.

Crefully grsp leg d bed bck 2_ Usig shrp boig kife, cut 3 rim wy y le pockets

boe sectio to pop jo it bckboe sectio from leg ft

. emove and discard skin from chicken legs.ng ngers, pull meat off bones, separatinger pieces ( which sould fall off bones easil)

m smaller, drier pieces into two equal pile s. lace smaller chicken piec es in food procesand pulse until just coarsel chopped, three

four second pu lses, stirring chicken withber spatula aer each pulse Transfer chickenauce in saucepan. Using ngers or two forks,

larger cicken pieces into long shreds andto saucepan. Stir in remaining tablespoon

r vinegar; cover saucepan and heat chickenr mediumlow heat, stirring occasionall,l heated through, about 0 minutes . Addsauce to taste and s rv , passng remaining

becue sauce separatel.

A R EC UE D P U ED CH CK EN R GA G R

l Soak 2 cups wood chips in water to coverfo 30 minutes; drain. lace chips in small disposable aluminum pan; set pan on primar burner(burner that wil remain on during barbecuing;position cooking grate. Ignite grill, turn all burners to high, cover, and eat until ver hot andcips are smoking, about 5 minutes. (If chipsignite, use water-lled spra bottle to extinguis )Scrape grate clean with grill brush. Turn off allburners except primar burner.

2 Follow step 3 of recipe for Barbecued ulledCicken for Charcoal Grill, placing cicken legsskin side up in single laer on cool side of grill.roceed as directed, omitting wood cunks andextending cooking time in step 3 to 35 minutesand cooking time in step 4 to 45 minutes .

e s T 1 N G e 1 P M e N : Wha's h Hs Chaoal?onventional wisdom d is at ardwod or "lump ral sup s and urius,

hile charcoal briquettes u lo and slow. For h rason, ms f th outdooroong gu ides

our l iby (incl udin gour own recome nd briq us or barbue c ookng ribs and brists)

nd hardwood or qu ic, d ira grl ing (ookngu rge, sas, and ps) Tw dozen gril l

g gurus could be wrog, righ W ded h s is b l l o fd ou

.':

4S .'S S"'.

a 1 S

A R E C U E D P U E D C H I C K E N F R A C R

This technique works well on a charcoal grilnot so well on a gas grill. If our gas grill is land can accommodte more than 8 legs, fothe recipe at left, adding as man legs as comfortabl t in a singl e laer. You ma neeincrease the cooking time .

Folow recipe for Barbecued led ChickenCharcoal Grill, igniting 6 quarts carcoa briqueusing 2 chcken legs, and slotting tem intshaped roasting rac set on top of cooking gover dsposable roastng pan (see page 3 ) . Incrcooking time in step 3 to 45 inutes and cing tme in step 4 to 45 to 55 inutes. In steremove onl cup of sauce om saucepan. In8, process chcken in food processor in 2 batch

G G cvr ff

We fil led 6 quart chimnys with eier hardwood haroal or briquetts. Just before lghtinghe math, we oufitted he oonggrt wih sevn mup s-i r prbs that ed em etur dataoan acd ons le-and s abut rrding a lls afeminue inals.We r the tests doe ie s d ld ur d

T rests were stal in g. In vey st, he briquts burndas ho, or hottr, than the

ardwood. In the gri l l ng ss, t frs prdu narly idnil ea or abu 30 inues-

nough tim or most qui gri l l ing s. F ere on, hadwod als qu ikly turn ino es sh hi l the briqutes sowl lost he

0 0 40 60 80 1 00 10 1 40 1 60 80 00 0 40

Tm m n

Ae'vealways ontestd, slowking a p shouldr fr ighhou would be a high-

mie fir ih rdod ur rius rl re ou o fl l b l 20

egre mar; i n hat im 'd ha rul rdod r i . T slow, seady desnt

f the b riquettes is peect or this job So wht bout o ur old ssumpis Hrdd is, i t, h horburi g hrol, t

est whe omprig hrol poud or poud Bu s udor s sur ut hroly volume fllig chm, d 6qur hieul o riques wighs more th ie s

muh s the sm volume of hrdwoodAd briquets re heper Fi l l ig i i lu p rl oss bou ompred

with just $ 1 3 7 or briques Grh ligigsith

U0"'.a

K

s U S R

4S

S

S

1S

G covr onv " .0 0 40 60 80 1 00 10 140 1 60 1 80 00 0 40

Tm mn

- Briquettes Lump Hadwood


17/36

imple Fruit asass a ba j st a e st t sasas ss te ak S

ae a s e e t ea ee s a

Salsa with crisp, sweet fruit offset by thetart, spicy kick of lime and chile is myfavorite answer to the sultry heat ofsummer. But the bowll of mushy fruit

wash in watery slurry that restaurants oen servewith grilled meat or sh doesn't come close tomy ideal er how hard can it be to throwogether this tropical version of relish?

My search started on the Internet, where Iound thousands of uit sa lsas, each a little wilderhan the last. Curry-Spiced Citrus? Balsamic

Berry? oliday Cranberry? Despite their differnces, each included a basic trinity: frit, acid,nd onion. When tested, many of these recipes

were unbalanced, overly harsh, or too saccharine.nd most swamped the fruit with dissonant level s

f competing avors. The challenge was clear:ick a uit, let its avor dominate, and spport it

with a judicious selection of avorings.The rst step was to determine which fruits

orked best as a foundation. Mango, pineapple,ectarine, and, surprisingly enough, melon, alleadily absorbed other avors without renouncng their own. Very ripe fruit was crucial to thealsa's avor and texture; tasteless, crunchy fruit

made for tasteless, crunchy salsa. ur test cooksreferred a tiny, tidy dice, as larger pieces createdn unappealing salad-like consistency.

The second key ingredient was an acid, butinegars tasted harsh. That is one reason mostecipes call for lime juice, but a light hand waseemed best in this department. ne tablespoonr ess per cup offruitdepending on the fruit

was all that was needed to boost each fruit's ownartness and tone down its sweetness.

The last item in the trinity, onion, appearedn most recipes, but tasters found that its harshavor quickly dominated. The more rened aor and delicate texture of shallots proved a

better match. I rst sliced the shallots crosswisento thin rings for visa and textural contrast,ut this made for too much shalot per bite. Iwitched to a ne mince so that it would vanishnto the salsa's other ingredients as t soened inhe lime and salt. As for garlic, slivered, minced ,r even when pounded to a paste, it t asted outf place.

Things were going well, but perhaps the aors were still a bit one-dimensional. Adding aecond, complementary vegetable or frit with

contrasting avor and texture was the simple

B M A TT W A

solution. Mango received a boost from crunchyred bell peper; nectarine tasted sweeter mixedwith a handful of crunchy raw corn kernels . theringredients were easily added to the mix, including most any fresh herb, a handl of toastedseeds, and pinches of sugar or spice.

As I made batch aer batch of sasa, I noti cedthat they improved in avor and consistency ifallowed to sit for half an hour 1 5 minutes ina pinch). The salt and acid seemed to cook"and mellow the ingredients, much as they do inceviche. Clean tasting and quick to mae, theserecipes make the perfect summer codiment.

M A N G A N D S W E E T P E P P E R S AL SAWIT TASTED PEPTAS

MAKES ABOT 3 CS

Pepitas or pumpkn seeds, are available in mostsupermarkets and natural foods stores . This s alsapairs well with pork, chicken, or rm white sh.See page 30 for tips on preparing the mango.

arge re mang, ee ed, es rm

n 4 nh die ( % 2 s

h arge red be eer, red, seede d, and n 4-n de (ab 1

smal sa , m ned (ab 2 abesns

23 ablesns je rm I 2 me s

2 abesns ped res il anr eaves

Tab e sa

ayenne

14 nsaed eas, ased in sma l

si e ver medm ea n gty

brned, 3 mnes

In edium bowl, toss together mango, red bellpepper, shallot, 2 tablespoons lime juice, cilantro, teaspoon salt, and teaspoon cayenne; let

stand at room temperature to blend avors, 1 5to 3 0 minutes. Adjust seasoning with additionallime uice, salt, and cayenne; stir peptas andserve.

P N E A P PL E A N D U U M E R S A LS AWIT M IN T

M A KE S A B OT 3 C S

This salsa can be made spicier by mincing andadding the chile's seeds and ribs. It's a nice matchwith lamb, tuna, or salmon.

J Y b S 0 0 5

arge ne ap e, eeed , red, and

in 4- n die (ab 2 s

1 med m mbe r, eeled , seeded, and

n 4-n de (ab I

sma sa, mi ned (ab 2 abes

med im serran l e, seeds and ribs rem

en m ned (ab 2 easns

2 abess ed res mn eaves

h easn very n ey graed ginge r 2 abesns je rm I me

Tabl e sa

Sgar

In medium bowl, toss together pincucumber, shalot, chile, mint, ginger, 1spoon lime juice, and teaspoon salt; leat room temperature to blend avors, 1minutes. Adjust seasoning with additionjuice and salt, and add sgar as needed apple is tart; serve.

SP NETAR N E AND RN SAL

M A K E S A B O T 3 C S

It's a good idea to wear rubber gloves

working with spicy habanero chiles. Thisexcellent with pork, chicken, shimp, or s

3 med m re nearnes, ied and

n 14-nh d e (ab 2 s

ear res rn, ss and s remved, a

ernes rm b ( ab sma sa, m ned (ab I abes

smal a baner e , seeds and rbs rem

en mined (ab I easn 2 abesns j e rm I me

Tabe sa

Sgar

2 abesns ed res ives

In medium bowl, toss together nectarinesallot, che, tabespoon e ce, teaspoon salt; let stand at roo temperablend avors, 1 5 to 30 mintes . Adjust sewith additional lime juice and salt, and adif nectarines are tart; stir in chives an ser

K gives you free recipes online Honeydew Peach Salsa recipe, visit coosillustand key in code 702 is recipe will be available ut3 200.


18/36

A uie o Essenia oowareTo outf it yu r kitchen witho t breaki ng the ban k, i nvest in cokware that is du rab le a ndvrsati e . H ere' s u r maser l ist f wat to buy an d wy Y W

In any cluttered kitche (ours ncluded ) , there are pos and pas that gather dust and others

that rarely get pu t away. Afer a dec ade of careful testin g, we 've de tifed t he true m ul titaskers,the "must- have ots and pans hat we reach for time and again We thn eve coo k sho ld

own these eiht p eces of cooare

tructig "Clad Cares o te met tody mde from

teri Mufctur r cosy iveti g

A LT R N N A M S F r y p O m e l e t P

to bod mters together to ke dvtge of teir : -t ppertes. "C ld coor comes o rieties.

d pieces hve compete co of coductve mteri

um or copper) tht exteds up e sides of the p I

bottom p , te cor is codu ctive d skof umiumo the oom exterior ofte p. O ur tests hve show

k-bottom ps oe peo j ust s we s fuy cd

ih some exceptos t e tickess of the co s mo

t th wether or o t cove the sides of te p .

AL RNA NM S F ryp Ome e t P

Wht We Use t Fo: Th s s the p we rech for

whe p-serig ste cops d cutes d whe

p-rost chc ke p. Te td ol t t s, ot

ostck) i is deve ops the crus brow bs

ht col lect o the p boom d re degzed to

mke p suces.

WhyWe e e red, shlow sdes ecoure t pd evpoto of mo sture so p sucesedue q uckly d foods ser ther h stem .

T ST K I T C H N S

Cosider weght creful ly Te p sho ud be

e eog to ret he t, bu t so eeds tobe esi y meuverbe (eve we loded wth3 p ouds of chcke prts).

ook for comfortbe hd e ht c sfey

go uder the broe r. A 1 2- ch dmeer (mesured cross the

top) s te best choice to ccommodte four

lre chops o r whoe, cut-u p cicke.

Ad th e i n e I s . . . ALLCD St less 1 2- ch Fp , 1 2* BS BUY OLFGANG PUCK Bistro 1 2-

lch Ope Omelet , 30

t We se t Fo: This is our fvorite p for ser

ig de ce tems tht hve tedecy to stck or brekprt, su ch s fs fil ets. We so fvor it for stir-fres ,

pckes omelets, d oer egg dshes.

yWe ke t: Te ostick fish mes o

for p suces, but the foods hemseves si l l e ceybrowed provded e p is e eou to vod

overcrowdig. The red sides low for the qui ck

redstributio of food by jerkg d si dig the p

over te urer. Esy cleup, of course

ST C H N S

Nosc k bod g teco o hs imp roved by

eps d bo uds, eg tht its wort i vestg

ostck sk le t wit thic k bse th dstrbutes

e eve ly. A 1 2- c ostick sk l e c hd e btch offsh

f lets or stir-f serv four. Sm ler

ostck sk les (8 or I 0 ches) re

good co ce for om eets d scks li ke

quesd ls or gr led- cheese sdwches.

nd t he i n e s . . .

LLCD Sti less Nosick 1 2- ch Fp, 1 2

* S T UY OFGANG PUCK Bsro 1 2 ch

Nosck Omelet , 3

Tada ves NstickThere re dvges to both trdtio d ostick

ps. The ltter re esy to ce d requ re ve itlecookg ft whe tdiol surces excel develop

ig tho se crus stucko bits of food tt dd

deep vor d coor to p suces. I he test kiche ,

we rec for ostck p whe cookig de ctefoods tht re pro e to stck, such s egs, sefood,d stirfres. For serig steks, chops, or chicke o r

mkg y ot er recpe tht fvors browg over

frequ et stirrig, we prefer trdito p, preferblyoe wt l ight-co lored iteror f sh tht mkes it

esy to wtch for sigs o f burt drip pgs.

s S R 1 6

A T R N A N A M F ryp

ht e Use t Fo: Cs o ju h hg serig o bckeg food qu ckly over very high hWhe we re er rely drk, ev e crust o ste

cops, o r eve corbred, there s othg better

y e ke t: I our l ieup of wi g ps, t

he pc ekicker. We my ot use it every dy, but

most esset to ve o hd whe te right re

comes log. Why For e smp e reso ht omel i the coo re re retis et s wel

iro . With its sow respose tme d treme dous

tis p s te wro coic e for deicte sut wo

but its di rt chep d wil outst y other p.

T S K T C H N T S

This ps ty scorcig-hot hdle tel s you

somethig I t s ot desged to be moved roud

i use So evier s better, wth reso .

ook for pourg l i p for esier disposl o f use

A 1 2- ch sk le is the best l -p urpose sze.

Ad th e Wi n e s . . .

ODGE 1 2- c Sk l et , 0

Wt e U se t Fo: A good co ce fo r pfry

Also good for dsh es i w hi ch you t o brow

d vegetbles d the dd l q ud , suc h s smoth

cops, frcssees, d m e pst suces

h e e It: With its hig sght sdes, hishs reter cpci for qud th skl et d swde r cookig surce oes we e ove too.

S K T C H N S

Hdles so uld be log comfotbe d oved they shoul d sty cool o te stovetopsom e

peoli c hetresistt plstc) dles re ove

woty oly to bout 3 0 degrees. A 3-qurt p, I 0 to I I ches dmeter, s

A d t he i n e s . . . ALLCD Siess 3 QurCoved Sut


19/36

What We Use It For: Rice, suces, veetbles , rvy,

pst crem, nd poched rut, to l st just ew.

Why We ke It: Ju st the riht sze nd shpe or

housnd nd one commo n kitche n tsks. A true work

orse: ts esy to mneuver nd stys out o you r wy

on crowded cooktop.

TT TCH N TP

r A comortble, stycoo hnd e is must, nd the

ndle shoud lso be on enouh or twohndedrin when the pn is ul .

r er sucepns shoul d b e ble to hndle someut work, so ood het cond uction i s m ust.

Every ktchen shoud be equpped with lreucepn with cpc o 3 to 4 qurts.

Consider nonstick nish when choosn sml ler

ucepns, wh ich re useul o r cookn otmel nd

ehetn letovers.

And th e Wi n ne r I s . . .

ALL-CD 3Q urt Stinless Sucepn, $ 1 BT UY SITRAM Proiserie 3 .3 Qurt Suce

n, $50

What We Use t For: Does nyth n sucepn cn

dond does ew thi ns better. A ood choce or

uces, rsotto, pst crem, or nythin else tht

equi res constnt ttention nd requent stirrnWhy We ke t: A sucier's wde mouth nd round ed,lred sides esly ccommodte whisks nd sptuls nd

elimi nte tiht coers where ood cn stck nd burn .

TT TCH N TPr We l ke the wider, sh lower pns n this cteoor esy ccess nd visi b . A sucier should be weih

enouh to di stribute het evenly yet stil be mne uverble. Its bottom soud be wide enouh to cover the

buer nd prevent ecess het rom wtn up the sides.

Aso look or sty-cool h ndl e tht's lon enouho keep hnds cer o het durin constnt stirrin.

Avoid "disk-botto suciers, which re prone toburnin.

A d th i nn er I s . . . A-CD Stiness 3-Qurt Sucer, $ 1 45

Wha abu a Sckp?Just bout the only thn we don 't use our Dutch

oven or is boil i n wter or pst, corn o n the

cob, or the occsionl obster. O ur vorte

enme ed cst- ron pot is bt slow in brn in

wter to bo nd si mply too he vy to crry over

to the sin k nd d rin . For these tsks, we em ploy

n i nepen sive stockpot, the sort you cn ind t

your ocl hrdwre store or bout $ 30 When

it comes to ctuly mkn stock, which oen

involves brownin m et nd swetin veetbes,

we rech or the Dutch oven insted.

ALT NAT NAM French Oven, Csserole

ha e s e t Fo: Ou r choce or soups n d stocks, Dutch oven is so del or n, stewin, nd b sin.

hy e ke t: But or both oven nd stovetop

use, Du tch oven is enerly wder nd sh lower thn

convention stockpot This mkes it ccessble (tht

s, esy to rech nd see nto) nd provides wider surce re or brownin (t lest 2 rto o di meter

to heht is id e) . I ts tremendous het trnsltes into

plen o het retention, which is perfect or keepinryin o h ot or mintn n very low simme r.

T T T C H N T P

r Loopin hnd es shou d be etremely sturdy ndwde enouh to rb with thck oven mitts.

r ds shou d be tiht ttn nd h evy enouh not toctter when the pot conte nts re sm mer in be ow. We nd t he most useu szes to be 6 to 8 q urts.

And e inner s .

* LE CRESET 7 !-Q urt Round French Oven, $2 1 5

M P The Big Fu r

ROASTING PNA LT N AT N A M oster

hat e se t For: its nme suests, ths pis or rostin, especi ly pou ltry nd other re cu

o met. It cn so be used to dee dripp ins o

rves nd suces o the stovetop.y e ke t: This pn's low sides nd open d

provide rosts wth mmum eposure to the ov

hot ir or even brownn. (H ih-s ded covered roers cook ster nd h otter but cuse met to stemn h bit brownin .) Delzin is the key to ret su

nd rvies, so it's no t meproo, oet it.

T T T C H N T P A roster shou ld be hevy enouh to hnd e

bi rds nd rosts witho ut bu cki n bu t not so hevy

be bckbrekn.

Look or hndles t ht re sturdy, up rht ( notperpend cur to the sides) , nd lre enouh toccommodte thick oven mi tts.

r A ht-colored nterior n sh m kes t esier tospot burnin d rppins.

Ovl-shped models my not ccommodterostin rcks.

r Mesu re you r oven beore sho pp n or rospn it shou ld it with bout 2 inc hes o cernce

l sides. Most o the re rosters we ested were

between 1 6 nd 1 8 nches on nd would hold key wehin up to 25 poun ds.

An d t he i n e r s . . .

* CLPHALON Contemporry Stiness Steel

Rostn n, $ 1 00

COPPER cond ucts het etremey wel l, but t is lso epensive nd h evy, trns hes esiy, nd is rective, le

in nto mny oods to produc e o colors nd vors. For th s reson , t is most lwys i ned with t n or stinlstee . Not wo the expense

A M N U M s second to copper in conductvi mon the mets used or coore, but t is lso l iht

nepensive nd retns het well , provded t is o suicient t hckness. But lum inu m is lso rective, nd the s

met d ents nd scrtches esiy. To comp enste or these d wbcks, m nucture hve d eveloped nodi

u m nu m coore, in whch the pns und eo electrolytic processn tht mkes the outer suce both hrnd l ess rective. The drk coor o nod ized lu mi nu m cn mke i t tric to oni tor the develop ment ooor pn suces. Uless aodized, best used in co mbition with

Cook's Illustrated 075

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