ContentsForewordbyAmyButler

IntroductionBasicEquipment

TheSewingMachineAnatomyofaBag

1:GettingStartedMakeit…TheVersatileBookBag

2:ChoosingFabricsMakeit…TheReversibleBucketBag

3:StructureAndReinforcementMakeit…TheCocktailRuffleClutch

4:LiningsMakeit…TheOrganizedOfficeBag

5:ClosuresMakeit…TheOversizedFashionistaBag

6:HandlesAndStrapsMakeit…TheGreatGetawayBag

7:PocketsMakeit…TheMulti-TaskingTote

8:EdgingsandTrimmingsMakeit…ThePiping-HotHobo

ConstructionSuppliers

AbouttheAuthorCopyright

Allfull-sizetemplatescanbedownloadedat:www.stitchcraftcreate.co.uk/patterns

Dedication

Toasweetandclevercraftingfriendifevertherewasone,mysisterJenny.Mysupportiveandencouragingfamily,MumandDad,WendyandHaymond.Mycraftwidowerhusband,whoyearsagopreventedmefromgettinga‘real’jobandurgedmetostartupmyownbusiness.Alan,thankyoudarling!

Foreword

BeforeIdigintotheamazingdetailsandinspirationsbehindLisa’sbookIneedtotellyoualittlebitaboutmydearfriendLisa.WemetthroughemailintroductionswhenIlearnedthatshewascarryingmypatternsandfabricsonherbeautifulU-Handbagsite.Ifellinlovewithherblogandcreativevoiceimmediatelyandfeltextremelyhonoredtohavesuchapassionateandtalentedpartner.Isentheraspeedynotewithbestwishesandreceivedanoverwhelminglywarmnoteinreturn.Wequicklyconnectedandfoundtonsofthingsincommoninbothourworkingcreativeworldsandpersonallife.Youknowwhatitfeelslikewhenyou’vemetakindredspirit,anoldsoulwhoclearlyisblessedwithmultiplegiftsandincrediblewarmth?Wellthat’sLisa.IrememberwhenIaskedifshelivedanywhereclosetoLondonandifwecouldmeetinperson.IhadanupcomingbooksigningatLiberty’sandshesaid‘sure,absolutely,noproblem…‘wheninfactshehadtotravelfairlyfarandendedupspendingtheentireafternoonwithmewhenshehadoodlesofbagorderswaitingforherattention.That’sjustthekindofgalsheis.

Youget150%ofLisaallthetime.She’ssupersmartandsupertalentedandthebestpartisshemakesherselfavailabletoeveryonewithhercare,thoughtfulnesswitandcharm.She’sprettydarnfunnytoo,slyandalwayseffervescent.Nowshe’dbethefirstpersontoscoffatmycompliments,becauseshe’sverydowntoearth,butinthissituation,Ihavetheupperhandsoshe’sjustgoingtohavetotakeallthepraise!YouneedtounderstandthesethingsaboutLisabecausethat’showspecialthisbookis.Truetoform,Lisagivessomuchofherself,herknowledge,experience,patienceandlimitlessideasforbagmaking…trulyabibleindeed.Sheleavesnothingtochancebecauseofherpassionforempoweringothersewists.Shewantseveryonetosucceedandbe

passionforempoweringothersewists.Shewantseveryonetosucceedandbeinspired.

Myfavoritethingaboutthisbookisitisastorehouseofinformationthatgivesyouallthetoolstobecompletelycreativeandsuccessfulwithyourownbaginventions.Lisasetsupthechaptersfocusingonspecifictechniqueswithexcellentbehindthescenesinformationthatgiveyouthelowdownontoolsandmaterialsandfollowsthatwithgreatsupportvisualswithherclearstepbystephowtophotos.You’llfindthatLisa’sinstructionsareclearandvisuallyveryveryeasytofollow.Thechaptersconcludewithinspiringimagesofstylishprojectsthatapplythetechniquesfirsthand.Soyougetanamazingsewingeducationcoupledwithbeautifulbagsthatofcourse,youcancustomize!

We’reallsofortunatetogettoknowLisathroughherblog,websiteandnowherfirstbook,whichbyallstandardsisoneofthemostcomprehensivesewingbooksI’veeverread.Thiswillbeoneofyourfavoritegotobooksforideas,inspirationandincrediblehowtoreference.Lisahasgivenusallthetoolstohaveagreatsewingexperiencethatwillgrowandgrow.She’saspecialone!

I’maveryluckygaltoknowherandamsohappytobeabletotellyoualittlebitaboutLisaandherwonderfulbagmakingbook!

HappyHappySewing!

AmyButler

amybutlerdesign.comBelowLisa’sbeautifulGreatGetawayBagmadeupinhomedecorweightfabricfrommyLovecollection.Thefantasticdesignofthebagcreatesendlesspossibilitiesforuseinyoureveryday

life!

Introduction

Ilovesewing.Formeitisanindulgence,myworkandawholelotoffun.InspiredbymyMum,I’vebeensewingsinceIwasalittlegirl.Ihavehappymemoriesofthecool‘70sflaresandflowerypinaforesthatsheusedtosewforhergroovy-lookingkids.I’vebeenunhealthilyobsessedwithfabric,haberdasheryandsewinggadgetseversince.I’mself-taught,IlovetoexperimentandI(usually)laughatmymistakes.

OfallthethingsthatIrunuponmytrustysewingmachine,bagsarethethingthatIenjoymakingthemost.Everygirlneedsabag(orten)inherwardrobeandahandmadebagistheperfectpresenttogiveatanytimeoftheyear.Youcan’tbeatthepleasureyougetfromowningatrulyuniquebagandthesmugfeelingyougetfromtellingyouramazedfriends,‘Oh,Imadeit!’.

Asthisbookwillshowyou,youdon’tneedtobeasewingwhizortopurchaseexotictoolstomakebags.You’lljustneedasewingmachineandsomeeasy-to-obtainnotions.Whilesomeofthebagprojectsinthisbookareaimedattheslightlymoreconfidentbagmaker,you’llfindthatallofthebag-makingtechniquesaresuitableforalllevels.Soevenifyouareabeginner,thisbookwillteachyouhowtoaddyourchoiceofpockets,orinsertatopedgeziptoanexistingbagpattern,forexample.Ihavepurposefullymovedawayfromquick-and-easybagprojectsbecauseIbelievethatwhenyouspendalittlemoretimeincreatingsomethingspecialyouwillcherishtheresultsallthemore.Fearnotthough,readersofmybag-makingblogwillknowthatIalwaystrymybesttowritesimple-to-followinstructionsandtoincludeplentyofhelpfulphotosinallofmyprojectsandtechniques,andthisbookisnodifferent.

Haveyouevereyed-upotherwomen’shandbagsandthoughttoyourself‘niceshape,buttoofewpockets’or‘toosmall’or‘yukkyfabric’andsoon?I

‘niceshape,buttoofewpockets’or‘toosmall’or‘yukkyfabric’andsoon?Ithoughtso!There’snothingwrongwithwantingmorepockets,abiggerbag,orevenafabric-matchedpurseforyourglampartydress.But,asthesayinggoes,ifyouwantajobdoingwellyouhavetodoityourself.Thisbookwillteachyouhowtodojustthat.Itcoversthebasicsfrominterfacingstopatternreading,anditcontainseightscrummybagprojects.Butbestofall(forthefirsttimeinanybagmakingbook)italsocovershowtomakethecomponentpartsofabag,fromdifferentstylesofpocketstomakinghandles,fromvariousbagclosurestoattachinglinings,andmuchmore.

Armedwiththebag-makingtechniquesinsidethisbook,you’llbeabletomaketheeightfabulousbagsfeatured,but,crucially,you’llalsobeabletodesignandconstructyourownbags.Whybelimitedtomass-produced,shop-boughtbags?Makeyourownbagyourwayandloveit!Ifyoufancysteppingupalevelfromhomemadebagstohandcraftedarmcandy,stepthisway.Allthetechniquesyou’llneedarerighthere…

Lovebags;makebags!

Lisa

Visitmeatmybag-makingblogandsayhello:www.u-handbag.typepad.com

BasicEquipment

Ifyoualreadyenjoysewingasahobby,thechancesareyoualreadyhavemostoftheessentialequipmentforbagmaking.Aswithmostthingsyougetwhatyoupayfor,sobuythebestyoucanaffordandyou’llneedtoreplaceitemslessoften.

Cutting

•Rotarycutter–arotarycuttergreatlyincreasesthespeedandaccuracyoffabriccutting.Alsolookoutforrotarybladesharpeners,whichwillsaveyoumoneyonreplacingdullblades.

•Cuttingmat–forusewitharotarycutter.Chooseonethathasbothimperialandmetricgridlines(inchesandcentimetres).Thegridlinesarealsoreallyhelpfulwhendraftingyourownbagpatterns.

•Dressmakingscissors–choosescissorsthatcutallthewaythroughtothetip,areasheavyasiscomfortable(astheweightaidscuttingstability),andareangledwiththehandlesraisedupwards.

•Embroideryscissors–small,fine-pointedscissorsareessentialforprecisionsnipping.

•Seamripper–notjustforunpickingseams,aseamripperisperfectformakingtinyincisionsformagneticsnapsandbuttonholes.Alwaysreplacedullseamripperstopreventyoufromhavingtopushtoohard,whichcouldresultinslipping.

Marking,measuringandpinning

•Disappearingmarker–thisismyfavouritetypeofmarkerbecauseitismoreprecisethanchalk.Makeyourmarksasdesiredandtheywilldisappearwithin48hours.Alwaysdoatestonasmallswatchofyourfabrictocheckfirst.

•Heramarker(orbonefolder)–thisusefulmarkermakesanindentinyourfabricfrompressureonly,soitisperfectifyourfabricisunsuitable

foradisappearingmarker.Itisalsogreatforpre-creasingfabricwhenyouneedtomakefoldsorpleats.

•Tapemeasure–tomakemeasurementconversionseasier,chooseatapemeasurewithbothmetricandimperialmeasurementsprintedonthesameside.

•Sewingpins–Iloveflowerflatheadpinsbecausetheyareprettyandtheypreventsorefingertips,sometimescausedbypushingpinsthroughlotsoflayers.

•Hand-sewingneedle–althoughyouwillbemostlysewingbymachine,therearetimeswhenhandsewingisunavoidable–suchaswhenthesewingmachinecan’treachtheareasyouneedtostitch,orwhensewingonbuttonsforexample.

Bag-makingtools

Noneofthesetoolsareexoticorhardtoobtain.Theyareallsimpletools,whichovertheyearsIhavecollected.Tomakelifeeasierandtogetthebestresultsfromyourbagmaking,tryaddingtheseitemstoyourtoolkit.

TapemakerIuse2.5cm(1in)and5cm(2in)tapemakerstomakebiastapeformyownprettypipingandbinding.SeeMakingYourOwnBiasBinding.

BodkinAbodkinisusedforspeedythreadingofcordorelasticthroughfabrictubesorcasings.Attachthecord/elastictothebodkinandthreadthebodkinthroughyourfabrictube.

FabricglueUsegood-qualityclear-dryingfabricglueforwhensewingisn’tanoption.Goodfabricgluecanbejustaseffectiveasstitching.

MinibulldogclipsUsethesestrongclipstoholdpiecesoffabrictogethertemporarilywhensewingpinsareunsuitable,suchaswhenyourlayersareverythick.

ThreadForeaseofuseandtomakelong-lastingbags,usegoodqualityall-purposepolyesterthread.Itmightbetemptingtobuycheaperthreadbutthisbreaksmoreeasily,whichmakesit

unsuitableforbagmaking.

LoopturnerThissimpletoolisusedforturningfabrictubestherightwayoutforspeedyfabricstrapmaking.

HammerandpliersUseasmallhammerwhenyouareworkingwithrivetsandeyelets(seeEyeletsandRivets).Usetwopairsofpliersforopeningandclosingmetalringsandlinksinpurse

chains.Jewellerypliersareespeciallysuitedtothosewithsmallhands.

TailorsawlAnawlisusefulformakingholesinfabricforrivets,pokingoutcornersinfinestraps(whenturningout),orevencoaxingsmallpartsofyourbagunderneaththesewingmachinefoot(tohelpthefeeddogsgrabthefabric).Twotypesareavailable;onewithasharppoint;theother

withaballpointtip.

HolepunchUseaholepunchtocutneatholesinfabricforeyeletsorpoppersnaps.Thisholepunchhasvarioussizedhole-cutterattachmentsandasmallergrip,whichisgreatforsmall

hands.

TheSewingMachine

Asewingmachineisthemostimportanttoolinmakingbags(andsewingingeneral)butitdoesn’tneedtobeagrandorcostlyaffair.ThereareonlytwofeaturesthatIinsiston:apowerfulmotorandafreearm(seebelow).Theotherslistedhere,whilenotessential,areusefultohave.IfbuyingasewingmachineandyouwantunbiasedreviewsandadvicetherearelotsofgoodresourcesontheInternet.Therearealsonumerousbooksavailableongettingthemostofoutofyourmachine,whicharewellworthinvestigating.

•Powerfulmotor–amustforcopingwithallofthosefabric(andinterfacing)layers.

•Goodstability–whensewingatbreakneckspeedsorworkingwiththicklayersthelastthingyouwantisyourmachinetoshakeandjudder.Chooseamachinethathasagoodweightandawidestablebase.Asktoseeortestthemachineinactionatmaximumspeed.

•Buildquality–howsoliddoesthemachinefeel?Ipreferheavymachines(themoremetalthebetter)becausetheywilllastlonger(withfewermachineservices)andtheywillvibrateless.

•Instructionmanual–Iamasticklerforagoodmanualbecausenomatterhowexperiencedyouaretherewillbeplentyofoccasionswhenyou’llneedtoturntoitforhelp.Don’tbeshyintheshop;asktohaveaflickthroughthemachinemanual.AlsolookontheInternetforsupportandusermanualsforyourmachine.

•Bobbinwindingsystem–differentsewingmachineshavedifferentsystemsforbobbinwinding.Whileintheshop,asktoseehowthebobbiniswoundandcheckyouarehappywiththemethod.

•Dualfeedsystem–thisisafeatureonsomemachinesthatmakesworkingwithseveraland/orthicklayersmucheasierbecausethissystemfeedsthelayersthroughthemachineevenlyandatthesamespeed.Innormalsewingthebottomlayergetsfedthroughthemachinejustbeforethetoplayerandthisresultsinthetoplayercreepingforwards,whichcanbearealpain.

Machinefeet

Therearevariousfeetrequiredfordifferentkindsofstitchesandapplications,soyouneedtothinkaboutthestitchesyouwanttouseandresearchtoseewhichtypesoffeetareappropriateforyourneeds.Ifyouareabouttopurchaseasewingmachine,seewhichfeetaresuppliedwiththemachine,thenaskthedealeriftheywillthrowinsomeextrafeetforfree(andaskaboutanyotherfreebiestoo!).•Standardpresserfoot–thisisthefootthatyouwillmakethemostuseof.Withthisversatilefootyoucansewstraightandzigzagstitch,andthemajorityofthemoredecorativestitchestoo.

•Clearpresserfoot–thisisastandardpresserfoot,butinsteadofbeingmetal,it’smadefromtransparentplastic,whichmakesseeingthingslikenotchesandmarkingsonyourfabricsomucheasier.

•Pipingfoot–ifyou’regoingtosewwithanyamountofpiping,apipingfootisamust,seePipedEdges.

•Zipperfoot–makessewingveryclosetotheedgeofanitemmucheasier,andisalsoessentialforsewingzips.

•Non-stickfoot–thisfootisbrilliantfor‘sticky’fabricsuchasoilcloth,vinylandleather(seeFabricTypes).

•Seamallowanceguide–thisisnotafoot,butisahandymetaledgethatscrewstothebedofthemachineandisveryusefulforprofessional-lookingtopstitching.Setyourdesiredseamallowanceontheguide,thenbutttheedgeofyourworktotheseamallowanceguideandawayyougo.

Machinestitches

I’vebeenmakingbagsforoversixyearsandinthattimeI’veonlyeverusedtwomachinestitches.

StraightstitchThisisbasicallytheonlystitchIeverreallyuse.

ZigzagstitchEverynowandagainIusezigzagtostitchovertherawedgesoffabrictopreventitfromfraying(TheVersatileBookBag,step2).

AnatomyofaBag

Allbagdesignsvaryinsize,shapeandpurpose,butthebagpartnamesarealwaysthesame,andthetechniquesusedtocreatethevariouspartswillbesimilaracrossdifferentbagdesignstoo.Bagscanbeassimpleorasfeature-packedasyouwantthemtobe.Havefunworkingthroughthetechniquesandprojectsinthisbookandyou’llsoongaintheconfidencetodesignandmakeyourowngorgeousarm-candy.

Firstimpressions

•Closure–whenitcomestoclosurestherearesomanyoptionsthatthereisawholechapterofthisbookdevotedtothem–seeClosures.Yourbagcanbeclosedwithseveraldifferenttypesofzipinsertions,amagneticorinvisiblemagneticsnaporatwistlock.Aflapsuchasthisonemayalsosecurethebagclosed,orbeadditionaltoaziporsnapclosure.Mixandmatchclosuresformaximumversatilityandfunctionality.

•Gusset–thedesignofthegussetoftendeterminesthecapacityofyourbag,aswellasitssilhouette.Gussetscanbestraight,havepleatsorbellows,orevenbeadjustableusingsnapsorties(seeGussets).

•Strap/handle–therearesomanywaystocarryyourbagoffinstylethatthereisawholechaptercoveringstrapsandhandles–seeHandlesandStraps.Choosehandlesthatmatchthelookandusabilityofyourbag.Makeyourownoruseconvenientready-madehandles(seeReady-MadeHandles).

•Strapattachment–considerhowthestraporhandleisattachedtoyourbag.Therearenumerousoptions,fromstitchingthestrapdirectlyontothebag,tousingfabrichandleloopswithmetalrings(seeOpen-EndStrapsandClosed-EndStraps),essentialifmakinganadjustableslidingstrap.Somestrapscanbeattachedpermanentlyorotherscanbemadewithtriggerhookstoallowthemtobedetached,eithertotransformthebagintoaclutch,ortoswapthehandleforadifferentonetogiveanewlook.

Justaroundthecorner

•Bagbottom–mostbagsbeyondthesimplestbookbagwillhavesomekindofbottom.Somewillhaveasoftunstructuredbottom,whileothersneedarigid,structuredkind.Ifit’sthelatter,youmayalsowanttoaddprotectivebagfeet(seeTheMulti-TaskingTote,step13).Therightbottomcanmakeallthedifferencetohowabagwillsitonasurfaceandhowitlookswhenfull.

•Bagback–remembertogivethebackofyourbagconsiderationtoo;ifit’srubbingagainstyourbodyasyoucarryit,thenitneedstobestreamlinedandfreeofanythingsuchashardwareortrimmingsthatwillcatchonyourclothesorbedamagedthemselves.Howeveritcanalsotheperfectplaceforasecret,secureandeasy-accessslimlinepocket,maybeflushandzippered(seeFlushZipPocket).

What’sinsidecounts

•Theinsideofthebag–thisisequallyimportantastheoutsideandneedstobegivenjustasmuchcareandattention.Theliningisachancetoaddlotsofdesignfeatures,fromfabricchoice(seeChoosingFabrics)totheuseofpocketsanddividersformoreorganization(seeFlushZipPocketandZipPartitionPocket).Joiningthebagexteriortotheliningisafundamentalpartofthebagconstructionprocess,andtherearetwodifferentmethodstotry,dependingonthedesignofyourbag(seeInsertingLinings:Drop-InMethodandInsertingLinings:PullThroughandTurnOutMethod).

1:GettingStartedIfyou’reanythinglikemeyou’reprobablykeentogetstuckinwiththescissorsandsewingmachine,andmightbetooimpatienttoreadthroughthischapter.Itotallyunderstand,butevenaquickreadthroughthebasicsexplainedherecouldmakeallthedifferencebetweenabagthatyouwillloveandabagthatwillendupatthebackofacupboard.Thischapterrunsthroughhowtousethepatternsinthebook,givingadviceonreadingpatternsandunderstandingsewinginstructions,withsomehelpfulfabricpreparationandcuttingtips.Thenattheendofthischapteryou’llfindinformationonhowyoucanmodifythesizeofbagpatterns,whichisoneofthefirststepstomakingbagsthewayyouwantthem.

UsingPatterns

Thepatterns,foundatthebackofthebook,areallfull-size,whichmeansthereisnoneedtohuntaroundtheneighbourhoodforaphotocopier.Someofthebagprojectshavetwoormorepatternpieces(whichareindicatedonthepatternpieces),othershavejustonepatternpieceandsomeprojectssimplyuserectanglesgivenasmeasurementswithintheprojectinstructions.

1Getalargesheetofsuitablepaper.Iusuallyusepaletissuepaper,butyoucanalsousetracingpaper,greaseproofpaperordressmakingpaper.Ironthepaperandthepatternsheetonalowsetting.

2Laythepaperoveryourchosenpatternpieceand,usingpinsorstickytape,securethepapertothepatternsothatitcan’tmovearound.

3Takeasoftleadedpencil(youdon’twanttoripholesinyourpaperwithahardpencil)andtracearoundyourpatternshape.Alsotracethe

variouspatternmarkings,notchesanddartsifappropriate(seeUnderstandingPatterns).SeeFiga.

FigaUseasoftleadedpenciltotracethepatternsandpatternmarkingstogetniceeasy-to-seeoutlines,andyou’llavoidrippingthetracingpaper.

4Layoutyourtracedpatternpiecesontoyourfabric.Alignyourpatternwiththefabric’sstraightgrain(seegrainlines).Ifthepatternpieceinstructsyoutoplaceitonafold,foldyourfabricasshowninFigb.Payattentiontothedirectionofyourpattern–arethepatternpiecestherightwayup?Accordingly,isthepatternonyourfabricalsotherightwayup?

5Pinyourpatternpiecestoyourfabricandcutthefabricaroundthepatternshapes.SeeFigc.Alternatively,youcanpinyourpatternstoyourfabricandthentracearoundtheoutlineofyourpatternpieceswithdisappearingmarkerorchalktogetanoutlineforfabriccutting.However,beforeyoudoanycutting,makesureyourefertoFabricCuttingTips.

6Transferanypatternmarkings,notchesordartsfromthepatternpiecetoyourfabricpiecesusingchalkordisappearingmarker.SeeFigd.

FigbToplaceapatternpieceonafold,foldthefabricwrongsidestogetherandpositionthefoldlineofthepatternontothefoldededgeofthefabric.

FigcIprefertopinandcutaroundthepatternpiecesbecauseit’sfasterthantracingaroundthepatternandthencutting.

FigdWhilethepatternisstillpinnedtothefabric,transferthevariouspatternmarkingsontothefabric.

Labelsnob…Labelyourpatternpiecesbeforeandafterusingthem;foldthemcarefully,andstoreinanenvelope.Alsostoreintheenvelopeanynotesyoumakeduringbagconstruction,readyfornexttime.

UnderstandingPatterns

Besidesthepatternshape,thereisavarietyofotherinformationonthepatternpieces.Thisbriefguidewillhelpyouunderstandwhatthetermsmeanandwhattheyarefor.

Languageskills…You’llquicklybecomefamiliarwithsewingtermsandabbreviations.Keepreferringbacktothesepagesuntilyoubecomeconfident.

•Seamallowance–thisisthedistancebetweentheedgeofthefabricpiece(s)andthesewingmachineneedle.So,ifapatternindicatesthattheseamallowanceis1cm(3⁄8in),youneedtosewyourstitches1cm(3⁄8in)infromtheedgeofthefabric.Apatternshouldalwaysstatetheseamallowancesizeandwhetherornotithasbeenincludedinthepattern.

•Grainlines–thesearethetwopointedarrowsthathelpyoutoalignthepatternpiecewiththestraightgrainofthefabric.Thetoparrowpointstothetopedgeofthefabricandthebottomarrowpointstothebottomedgeofthefabric.Thestraightgrainofthefabricrunsparalleltotheselvedge(thenon-frayingedgeofthefabric,whichoftenhasthecompanyandfabricnameprintedonit).

•Foldlines–whenapatternpiecesays‘placeonfold’youneedtofoldyourfabricwrongsidestogetherandplacetheappropriateedgeofthepatternpieceontothefabricfold.Inthisway,theresultingcutfabricpiecewillbedoublethesize;amirrorimagejoinedatthefabricfold.

•Notches–thesearethesmallverticallinesthatappearonthepatternpieceoutline.Theseusefulmarkingshelpyoutomatchupseamsandfabricedgesaccurately.Patternpiecesthatneedjoiningupwillhavecorrespondingnotches.Transferpatternnotchestoyourfabricpiecesusingadisappearingmarkerormakesmallnickswithscissors.

•Darts–theseappearaslargetriangleshapesthatpointintothepatternfromthepatternoutline.Whenfabriccutting,Iusuallycutthesedarttrianglesout.SeeDarts.

•Othermarkings–magneticsnap/twistlock/baghandlehook/zippocketetc.markingsneedtobetracedontoyourpatterns,andthentransferredtoyourfabricpieces.

GlossaryoftermsandabbreviationsInadditiontothepatterns,youwillalsoneedtobeabletofollowthewritteninstructionsfor

Inadditiontothepatterns,youwillalsoneedtobeabletofollowthewritteninstructionsforeachtechniqueorproject.Thefollowingtermsareusedthroughoutthisbookandinothercommercialpatterns.

Baglining/bagexterior–mostbagshavealiningandanexterior,whichessentiallymeansthatmostbagsconsistoftwobags(theinsidebagandtheoutsidebag).Eachbagismadeseparatelybeforebeingjoinedtogethertowardstheendofconstruction.InthisbookIrefertotheinsidebagasthe‘liningbag’andtheoutsidebagasthe‘exteriorbag’.Clip–clippingyourseamallowancehelpsseamslieflatwhenyouturnyourprojectrightsideoutbyreducingbulkintheseams(especiallycurvedseams).ForinwardcurvescutsmallV-shapespointingtowardsthestitchingalongtheseamallowanceclose,butnottooclose,tothestitching.Foroutwardcurvesmakesmallscissornickspointingtowardsthestitching(again,nottooclosetothestitching).Clipcorners–snippingofftheseamallowancereducesbulkintheseamsofstraightcornersandmakesforsmootherandsharpercornersonyourbagwhenitisturnedrightsideout.Thisresultsinneaterrectangularpocketsorfabricstraps,forexample.Beforeturningrightsideout,trimoffthecornertipsofyourworkclose,butnottooclose,tothestitching.Rawedges–referstothecut,unstitchedandunfinishededgesoffabric.Sewinginaboxformation–particularlyusefulforstitchingstrapendsdownsecurelyontoyourwork.Stitchtheiteminaboxshapeforextrastrengthanddurability.Topstitching–alineofstitchesthatrunscloseandparalleltoanedgeontherightsideofyourwork.Thedistancebetweenthestitchesandtheedgewillvaryaccordingtoyourpreferenceortheinstructionsintheproject.Topstitchingisveryusefulinthatitoftenservesbothdecorativeandreinforcingfunctions.Turningrightsideout(sometimesabbreviated–TRSO)–simplymeansthatyouneedtoturnyour(insideout)worktherightwayout.Turningwrongsideoutmeansthereverseoftheabove.WS–wrongside–thereverseorbackofyourworkorfabric.WST–wrongsidestogether–bringtwopiecesoffabrictogethersothatthewrongsidesofthefabricsaretouchingeachother.WSO–wrongsideout–thewrongsideofyourwork/fabricisfacingoutwards.WSU–wrongsideup–thewrongsideofyourwork/fabricisfacingupwards.RS–rightside–thegoodorthefrontsideofyourfabricorwork.RST–asWST,butwiththerightside.RSO–asWSO,butwiththerightside.RSU–asWSU,butwiththerightside.

FabricPreparationandCutting

There’snothinglikegrabbingafewhoursandmakingastartonanewsewingproject.Butbeforeyourushinwithyourscissorsit’sworthtakingalittletimeandcaretoprepareandcutyourfabricsinamethodicalway.Thefollowingtipsandhintswillhelpyouspeedupthecuttingprocessandendupwithamoreprofessional-lookingbag.

Fabricpreparationtips

•Ifyouwanttowashyourbagsyouwillneedtopre-washyourfabrictopreventthefabricfromshrinkingduringwashing.Putyourfabricinameshbagtohelppreventtherawedgesfrayinginthewashingmachine.(Idon’tpre-washmyfabricsbecauseIdon’tthinkit’sagoodideatowashbags.Ipreferto‘spotwash’bydabbingtheaffectedareawithamoistclothandamilddetergent.)

•Alwaysironyourfabricsthoroughlybeforecutting.SeeFiga.

Sprayaway…Ratherthanwashingbags,tryusingfabricprotectorspraysonyourfabricstohelprepeldirtandblockstains.Alwaysreadtheinstructionsandtestfirst.

FigaIknowit’sboring,butironingisanecessaryactivityinallsewingprojects.Alwaysironyourfabricsthoroughlybeforepatterncutting.

Fabriccuttingtips

•Alwayscutonaflatsurfaceandclearthedecksbeforeyougetcutting.•Speedthingsupbyironingfusibleinterfacing(ifusing)tothewrongsideoffabricsbeforecuttingout,seeFigb.SeealsoInterfacingandInterlining.

•Alwaysusesharpscissorsorasharprotarycutterforcuttingoutyourfabrics.Thiswillensurethatyougetcleanandaccuratecutseverytime.Ifyouareusingarotarycutterensurethatyoucutonarotarycuttingmat.SeeFigc.

•Followthegrainlinesonyourpatternstoensurethatfabricdesignsdon’tappearwonky.

•Trylayingthefabricsandinterliningpiecescarefullyontopofeachotherandthenlayingthepatternpiecesonthetopbeforepinningalllayersand

cutting.SeeFigd.However,ifyourstackeduplayersaretootallyouwillendupwithveryscruffyedgesandyourscissorswon’tbehappyathavingtocutthroughallofthoselayers.Ifthisisthecase,trylayeringyourliningandexteriorfabricstogetherandcutting,andthenlayeryourinterliningstogetherandcutting.

•Ifusingfabricswithadirectionalpatternandyouarelayeringyourfabricsbeforecutting(assuggestedabove)besuretocheckthatyourfabricsaretherightwayup.Youdon’twanttoendupwithfabricpatternpieceswithdesignsthatareupsidedown.

FigbWhereverpossibleironfusibleinterfacing(ifusing)ontotheWSoffabricsbeforepatterncutting.Thissavesthebotherofhavingtomatchupandironaninterfacingpatternpiecetothe

fabricpatternpiece.

FigcArotarycuttermakescuttingstraightedgessomuchfasterandneater.Ifyouhaveasteadyhand,arotarycutterisgreatforcurvededgestoo.Alwaysusearotarycuttingmat–theynotonly

protectyourtable,theyalsohelpkeepthebladesharperforlonger.

FigdAnotherpatterncuttingtime-savingtrickistostackandpinthefabricandinterfacingpiecesontopofeachotherbeforecutting.

ModifyingPatterns

Ifyouareasewing‘newbie’thethoughtofdeviatingfromapatternmayseemlikeacrazythingtodo,butit’sactuallyveryeasytomakepatternmodificationstosuityou(oryouroutfit!).Intheirsimplestform,bagsareafront,abackandacoupleofhandles.Butyoucanjazzupevenabasicbagbychangingitssize,addingapocket,insertingaziporasnap,changingthehandlesoraddingacoupleofdartsforvolume,forexample.Belowyouwillfindguidanceonchangingthesizeofthebagasthefirststeptomodifyingapattern,buttherestofthisbookwillshowyouhowtochangeeverythingelse–soreadon.Becausebagmakingislesscomplicatedthandressmakingyou’llfindthatit’sfarmoreforgivingifyouhaven’tquitegotthemeasurements100percentright.Infact,halfthefunofbagmakingisthatyoucanoftenmakeitupasyougoalong.Idoitallthetime!

Increasingthesize

•Firstdecidehowmuchlargeryouwouldlikeyourfinishedbagtobe.Takethatmeasurement,divideitinhalfandaddthathalvedmeasurementallaroundtheedgeofthebagpatternpiece(s).Say,forexample,youwantyourfinishedbagtobe10cm(4in)largeroverall;youwouldadda5cm(2in)marginallaroundtheoutsideofthebagpatternpiece(s).Alwaysremembertoaddonyourseamallowanceifyouhaven’talready.

•NBIfyourpatternpieceismarkedwitha‘placeonfold’instructionyouwillneedtoaddyourmarginaroundallpatternedgesexcepttheedgewhereyouareinstructedto‘placeonfold’.

Decreasingthesize

•Firstdecidehowmuchsmalleryouwouldlikeyourfinishedbagtobe.Takethatmeasurement,divideitinhalfandsubtractthathalvedmeasurementfromallaroundtheedgeofthebagpatternpiece(s).Say,forexample,youwantyourfinishedbagtobe10cm(4in)smalleroverall;youwouldsubtracta5cm(2in)marginfromallaroundtheinsideofthebagpatternpiece(s),rememberingtoincludeyourseamallowanceifyouhaven’talready.

•NBIfyourpatternpieceismarkedwitha‘placeonfold’instructionyouwillneedtosubtractyourmarginfromaroundallpatternedgesexcepttheedgewhereyouareinstructedto‘placeonfold’.

Makeit…TheVersatileBookBagHerewehavethreedifferentversionsofabasicbookbagshape.Ibetyoucan’tstopatone!Masterthesesimpletotesandwiththehelpofthisbookyou’llsoonbeaddingyourowncoolfeatureslikezippockets,dartsandfancyfasteners.

EasyasPiePrettyfabricsreallyliftthebasicdesignofthisbag.

Flat-BottomedGirlIt’squickandeasytopopaflatbottomintoabag,andyourbagwilllookthatbitmoreprofessional.

Peek-a-BooPleatsInsertabrightfabricintothepleattomakeeye-catchingpeek-a-boopleats.

Needtoknow

Asthesebagsareunlinedyoumightprefertousefabricsthatarethesamecolouronbothsides(self-coloured)suchascanvasorlinen.Allseamallowancesare1cm(3⁄8in)unlessstatedotherwise.Therearenopatternsforthesebagsasallyouneedarefabricrectangles.Fabricmeasurementsaregivenintheinstructions.

EasyasPie&Flat-bottomedgirl

Thesuperhandyeasy-as-pietotebagisaboutasbasicascanbebutthat’snoreasonforitnottolookpretty.Whipupafewinunderanhourforemergencypresents.Jazzthemupbyplayingwithyourfabricchoices,useposhhandles,or

presents.Jazzthemupbyplayingwithyourfabricchoices,useposhhandles,ortryaddingafabricflower.Ourflat-bottomedgirlisalmostthesameastheEasyasPiebagexceptithasaflatbottom.Aflatbottomissoeasytoinsert,givesthebagsome3Dshape,andhelpspreventyourstufffromgettingsquashedatthebottomofyourbag.YouwillneedForeachbag

•1pieceofcanvasorlinenfabricforexterior,50cm(1⁄2yd)x112cm(44in)wide

•1pieceofcontrastingmedium-weightfabricforbottompanelandstraps,50cm(1⁄2yd)x112cm(44in)wide

•Sewingthreadstomatchthefabrics•Disappearingmarker

PreparationCutthefabricpiecesasfollows:

•Mainbodypanelpattern=81x35cm(32x133⁄4in)–cut:•1xexteriorfabric•Bottompanelpattern=35cm(133⁄4in)square–cut:•1xcontrastfabric

Alsocut:

•2stripsofcontrastfabric,68x10cm(263⁄4x4in),forthebagstraps

AssembleEasyasPie

1Stitchthebottompaneltotheexteriormainbodypanel–takethebottompanelWSU,foldinbothshortedges1cm(3⁄8in)totheWSandironthefolds.LaythebottompanelRSUontothecentreoftheRSofthemainbodypanelandmatchupthesideedges.Checkthattheshortedgesofthebottompanelarelyingatrightanglestothesideedgesand

pin.Stitchthebottompaneltothemainbodypanelbytopstitchingalong

theshortedgesofthebottompanel.SeeFiga.

FigaEnsurethattheshortedgesofthebottompanelareniceandstraightonthemainpanel;youdon’twantthebottompaneltolookwonkyonyourfinishedbag.

2Stitchthelongrawedges–stitchalongbothlongrawedgeswithazigzagstitchthat’swideinwidthandshortinlengthtopreventtherawedgesfromfraying.

3Stitchthebag–foldthebaginhalfwidthwaysRST.Matchalledges,pinandstitchalongthesideedgesofthebag.Ironthebag.

4Foldandstitchthetopedgeband–withthebagstillWSO,folddowntherawtopedge1.5cm(1⁄2in)totheWSofthebagandironthefold.Folddownanother2cm(3⁄4in)inthesameway,ironandpin.

Topstitchallaroundthetopandbottomedgesofthebandensuringyoustitchthoughalllayers3mm(1⁄8in)fromtheedges.SeeFigb.TurnthebagRSOandiron.

FigbTopstitchallaroundthebottomandtopedgeofthebagband.

5Makeupthestrapsandstitchthemtothebag–takethebagstrapfabricpiecesandfollowthestepsinClosed-EndStrapstomaketwoclosed-endstraps.OntheRSofthebag,measureandmark8cm(31⁄8in)infrombothsideseamsand2.5cm(1in)downfromthetopedge.Placetheouterbottomcornerofoneofthestrapendsontooneofthemarksyouhavejustmade.Pinthestrapendinpositionandstitchtothebaginaboxformationforstrength(seetip).SeeFigc.Repeatwiththeotherstrapendandthenwiththeotherbagstrap.

FigcMeasureandmarkthestrapendpositiononthebag,andpinandstitchthestrapinplacethroughallbaglayers.

Boxclever…Tosewasmart-lookingboxremembertoleavetheneedleinthedownpositionwhenyoureachtheendofaline.Thatwayyoucanturnaperfect90-degreeanglebypivotingyourworkaroundtheneedle.

Happyhandles…Insteadofmakingfabricstrapsandsewingthemtothebag,youcouldbuyready-madehandlesandrivetthemon.Ifrivetinghandlestothebag,reinforcethehandleareawithfusibleinterfacing(seeInterfacingandInterlining).

AssembleFlat-BottomedGirl

1Cutthefabricandstitchthebagtogether–cutthepatternpiecesexactlyaslistedfortheEasyasPiebagandstitchtogetherfollowingsteps1–4ofthatbag(previouspageandabove).

2Insertaflatbottomintothebag–withthebagWSO,followsteps2–4ofFlatBottomstoinsertaflatbottom.Fromthetipofthetrianglemeasureandmark2.5cm(1in)ontheseamforthebagbottomdepth.

3Makeandapplythebagstraps–followingstep5oftheEasyasPiebag(above).

Peek-a-BooPleats

Thisversionoftheversatilebookbaghasanattractivebuteasy-to-insertpleatdownthecentreofthebag.Asabonus,insertacolourfulstripoffabricinsidethepleattomakeprettypeek-a-boopleats.Youwillneed

•1pieceofcanvasorlinenfabricforexterior,50cm(1⁄2yd)x112cm(44in)wide

•1pieceofcontrastingmedium-weightfabricforinsertandstraps,50cm(1⁄2yd)x112cm(44in)wide

•Sewingthreadstomatchthefabrics•Disappearingmarker

PreparationCutthefabricpiecesasfollows:

•Mainbodypanelpattern=80x50cm(311⁄2x191⁄2in)–cut:•1xexteriorfabric

Alsocut:

•1pieceofcontrastfabric,80x19cm(311⁄2x71⁄2in),forthepleatinsertpanel

•2stripsofcontrastfabric,68.5x10cm(27x4in),forthebagstraps

Assemblethebag

1Stitchthepleatinsertpaneltothemainbodypanel–takethepleatinsertpanelWSU,foldinbothlongedges1cm(3⁄8in)totheWSandironthefolds.LaythepleatinsertpanelRSUdownthecentreoftheRSofthemainbodypanelandmatchuptherawshortedges.Pinandstitchthepleatinsertpaneltothemainbodypanelbytopstitchingalongbothlongedgesofthepleatinsertpanel3mm(1⁄8in)fromtheedge.SeeFigd1.Foldthebagalongthelongedgesofthepleatinsert,ironthefoldsandtopstitchthefoldsinplace3mm(1⁄8in)fromtheedgeonthemainbodyfabricside.SeeFigd2.Stitchalongbothshortedgesofthemainbodypanelwithazigzagstitchthat’swideinwidthandshortinlengthtopreventtherawedgesfromfraying.

Figd1Checkthatthepleatinsertpanelisperfectlycentraldowntheentirelengthofthemainbodypanel.

Figd2Topstitchingthepleatedgeinthiswaywillensurethepleatsremainpermanentlyfoldedalongthesides.

2Foldandstitchthepleatintothebag–atthetopedgeofthebagfindthecentreofthepleatinsertpanelandmark.Bringbothsideedgesofthepleatinsertintothecentremark,foldandironinplace.Stitchthepleatsinplacealongthetopedgewitha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.OntheRSofthebagmeasureandmark2.5cm(1in)downfromthepleattopedge.Stitcha5mm(3⁄16in)lineofzigzagstitches(inforwardandreverse)toanchorthepleatsonthefrontofthebag.SeeFige.Repeatfortheotherside.

FigeStitchadenselineofzigzagstitchestoanchorthepleats.Tryusingcontrastingthreadforaddedinterest.

3Stitchthebag–followingsteps2–3oftheEasyasPiebag.

4Foldandstitchthetopedgeband–withthebagstillWSOfolddowntherawtopedgeofthebag2cm(3⁄4in)totheWSandironthefold.Topstitchallaroundthetopandbottomedgeofthebagband3mm(1⁄8in)fromtheedges.TurnthebagRSOandiron.

5Makeandapplythebagstraps–followingstep5oftheEasyasPiebag.

RightFormaximumeffectuseaninsertfabricthatcontrastswiththemainfabricforreal‘pop’!

2:ChoosingFabricsFabriciscolour,texture,pictureandpatternjustwaitingtobemixedup,cutupandstitchedupintosomethingamazing.Thefirstpartofthischapterexploresdifferenttypesoffabricssuitableforbagmaking,thensuggestsfabricsources,andfinallylooksatwaysofworkingwithcolour,patternandtexture.Thesecondpartofthechaptertalksaboutinterfacingandinterlining(alsoknownasstabilizer).Mysteriousandboringinequalmeasure,interfacing/interliningisnonethelessanessentialcomponentinbagmaking.We’lllookatvarietiesofinterfacingandinterliningsandtheirapplications,butfirstherearesomeofmytried-and-testedfabricandinterfacingcombinationsforuseincommonlymadebagtypes.

AboveThereissomethingsogorgeouslyaddictiveaboutfabric.Collectingitisasmuchfunassewingwithit.Seeingmyownfabricstashneatlystackedincolourfulbundlesgivesmeawarm

happyfeelinginside!

BagTypeandDescription

BagFabricSuggestions Interfacing/Interlining

Messengerbag:softstructure,midtolargesizeshoulderbag.

Denim,linen,canvas,corduroy,upholstery/homedecweightfabricswithmid-weightcottonlining.

Wovenfusibleinterfacingonallexteriorpartsandsew-infleece/waddinginbetweenliningandexterior.

Firmboxyclutchormediumlargeboxybag:firmandcanstandupright.

Quilt-weightcotton,satinorsilk,fauxorrealsuedeorleatherwithsilkorsatinlining.

Mediumfusibleinterfacingonallexteriorpartsthenultra-firminterfacingfusedtoexteriorfabricwithfleecesewninbetweentheliningandexterior.

Travelbag/largehold-allorpaddedlaptopbag:boxyandupright.

Upholstery/homedecweightcanvas,denim,heavywool,corduroy,heavyvelvetwithquilt-weightcottonlining.

Firmfusibleinterfacingonallexteriorparts,fleeceandultra-firmsew-ininterlininginbetweenliningandexterior.

Travelbagorlargehold-all:softandslouchy.

Upholstery/homedecweightcanvas,corduroy,denim,heavywool,heavyvelvetwithquilt-weightcottonlining.

Wovenfusibleinterfacingonallexteriorpartsandfleecesewninbetweenliningandexterior.

Smallorlargehoboshoulder/acrossthe

Quilt-weightcotton,heavysatin,upholstery/homedec Wovenfusible

interfacingonall

shoulder/acrossthebodybag:softand

unstructured.

upholstery/homedecweightcanvas,denim,heavywool,heavyvelvetwithquilt-weightcottonlining.

interfacingonallexteriorpartsandfleecesewninbetweenliningandexterior.

Bi/trifoldwallet:firmandsemi-rigid.

Quilt-weightcotton,linen,canvas,denimwithquilt-weightcottonlining.

Wovenfusibleinterfacingandultra-firmfusibleinterfacingonallexteriorparts,andheavysew-ininterlininginbetweenliningandexterior.

Jewellery/artist’s/crafttool/make-upbrushroll:soft,unstructuredandpadded.

Quilt-weightcotton,linen,canvas,heavysatinwithsatin/quilt-weightcottonlining.

Mediumfusibleinterfacingonallexteriorpartsandfleecesewninbetweentheliningandexterior.

Zipperedwristletpurse,pencilcase:soft,unstructuredandlightlypadded.

Quilt-weightcotton,heavysatin,upholstery/homedecweight,denim,heavywool,heavyvelvetwithquilt-weightcottonlining.

Wovenfusibleinterfacingonallexteriorpartsandheavysew-ininterlininginbetweenliningandexterior.

Feelinggood…Ifyou’renotfamiliarwithsomeofthefabrictypesandweightsmentionedabove,popalongtoafabricshopandhaveagoodseeandfeelforyourself.Alternatively,manycompaniesonlinesupplysamplesfreeorforasmallcharge.It’sworthgettingtoknowhowfabricsfeelandhandle.

FabricTypes

Broadlyspeaking,fabricfallsintotwomaincategories:dressweight(alsoknownasfashionweight)andupholstery/curtainfabric(alsoknownashomedecweight).Asthenamessuggest,dressweightfabricislighterweightandmoresuitedtomakingclothes.Upholsteryfabricontheotherhandisheavier,moredurable,andthereforemoresuitableforhighwearandtearapplicationssuchassofacoversandcurtains.Asbagmakerswecanusebothdressandheavyweightfabricstosuitthebagthatwearemaking.Asageneralrule,dressweightfabricisbettersuitedtobagliningsandupholsteryweightfabricisbetterforbagexteriors,However,thatisonlyalooseruleandtherearecleverinterfacingtricksthatyoucanapplytoyourfabricchoicestooverridethatrule(seeInterfacingandInterlining).Meanwhile,herearesomefabricsuggestionsthatworkatreatforbagmaking.

Oilcloth/laminatedclothUsuallyusedfortheexteriorofbags,thisvinyl-coatedfabriccomesinfantasticprintsandhasatoughwaterproofsurface,makingitperfectforswimbags,travelbags

andwashbags.Thevinylhasatendencytosticktothebedofyoursewingmachinemakingsewingwithitquiteawkward(seetip).

Oilclothknow-how…Ifyouplantosewoilclothregularly,itisworthinvestinginnon-sticksewingmachinefoot(seeMachineFeet).Also,besuretouseajeansneedleandonlypinintheseamallowanceotherwiseyou’ll‘scar’theclothwithunsightlypinholes.

LinenThisversatile,hardwearingandnaturalfabricisavailableinbothdressandhomedecweight.Thelinenthatbagmakersliketouseisthenaturalbiscuit-colouredhomedecweightfabric.Thecolouroftheundyedclothwithitsattractiveirregularweavemakesitagreatfoilfor

embroideryand/orpatternedfabrics.

Cotton/quiltfabricThistypeoffabricisusedbothintheliningandtheexteriorofbags.Cottonisavailableinmanydifferentweights,butforbagmakingtrytousemid-weightcottonandup.

Quiltingfabricisusuallymadefromcottonandcomesinafantasticarrayofcolourful,beautifulandfunprints.Youcanusecottonforalmostanytypeofbag.

Canvas/denimUsuallyusedfortheexteriorofbags,canvasisavailableindifferentweights.Choosetheheaviestweightthatyoursewingmachinecancopewith.Canvasisstrongandithasruggedgoodlooks.Besuretouseajeansneedlewhensewingwithcanvasanddenim.Ithinkcanvaslooksbestonlargerbagssuchasshoppers,messengerbags,travelbagsandbeach

bags.

Wool/suitingfabricUsuallyusedfortheexteriorofbags,woolisfabulousforbagmaking.Woolisavailableindifferentweights,patternsandtextures.Itsincredibledepthofcolouranditsyummy

texturemakewoolaluxuriousfabrictoworkwithanduse.Woolishardwearing,butforbagmakingitusuallyrequiresinterfacingofsomekind.Woolhasamoreopenweavesoastrongdressmakingneedleissufficient.Tryusingwoolsforhandbags,clutchesandmessengerbags.

VelvetThisisaluxuryfabricthathasfabulousdepthofcolourandastrokeabletexture.Thenicestvelvetismadefromcotton.Velvetisavailableindifferentweights–choosetheheaviest

weightthatyoursewingmachinecancopewith.Velvetfrayseasilysoit’swisetosewwithawiderseamallowance.Ifyourvelvetisquitethickoryouwillbesewingthroughafewlayersuseajeansneedle.Tryusingvelvetforhandbags,clutchesandspecialoccasionbags.Corduroyissimilarto

velvetinitsusesandmaterialqualities.

Faux/realsuedeUsuallyusedfortheexteriorofbags,fauxsuedeissimilarinnaturetovelvet.Realsuedeisdenseandhardertosewthroughthanwovenfauxsuede.Ifyoufeelthatsuedeistoofragileforyourbagsitcanbestrengthenedwithinterfacing.Besuretousealeatherneedleforsewingsuede.Tryusingrealsuedeforsmallerspecialoccasionbagsandsmallhandbags.

Realandfauxleatherissimilarinitsusestosuedebuthasashinysurface,oftenrequiringanon-sticksewingmachinefoot(seeMachineFeet).

Silk/satinUsedbothastheexteriororlining,silksandsatinsareluxuryfabricsthathavebeautifullooks,textureandmovement.Silklooksgorgeouspleatedorgathered.Trytosticktoheavierweightsilk/satinbecauseit’smoredurableandeasiertosewwith,whilefinesilkandsatinare

veryslippery.Naturaldupionsilkissturdy,hasalovelysoft-sheenandaninterestingtexturefromthesmallslubsinthefabric.Shimmerysatinfabricmakesaglamorouslininginaneveningbag.Useafinesewingmachineneedlewhensewingwithsilkorsatin.Tryusingsilkorsatinforany

specialoccasionbagsandpurses.

WorkingwithColourandPattern

Mostbagsrequireatleasttwodifferentfabrics,onefortheexteriorandoneforthelining.Buthowdoyoueffectivelycombinethetwo(ormore)fabrics?Whenitcomestosew-it-yourselfthereisnorightorwrong,onlywhatyoulikeanddon’tlike.

Playingwithcolour

Forthoseofyouwhoarenewtosewinganddon’tknowwheretostartwhenit

Forthoseofyouwhoarenewtosewinganddon’tknowwheretostartwhenitcomestocolour,herearemybeginner-levelsuggestionsforcombiningyourfabrics.

GocomplementaryIadmitIliketoerronthebrighterandloudersideofthingssoIlovenothingmorethanpickingtwocoloursthatcomplementeachother.Traditionalcomplementarycolourduos(huesthatsitoppositeeachotheronthecolourwheel)includeblueandyellow,redand

blue,blueandpink,andturquoiseandorange.Ifyouaren’tsurewhatcolourscomplementeachotherlookforacolourwheelontheInternetforreference.

GotonalAneasywaytogroupcoloursistopicklighterordarkershadesofyourfocuscolour.Say,forexample,yourbagexteriorfabrichasaredrosepattern;yourliningfabriccouldhave

pinktones.

Gomonochrome…withatwistBlackandwhiteisaclassiccolourcombination,whichalwayslooksfabulous.Tryaddingathirdflashofcoloursuchasred,electricblueorlimetothe

monochromepalatetoaddanunexpectedzingtoyourbag.

UsingTextureCombiningdifferenttexturesinabagcanhavejustasmuchimpactasusingdifferentcolours.Trypairingdissimilartexturedfabricswitheachother.Theresultswillnotonlylookgreat,theywillfeellovelytoo.Forexample:

Trypairingparingavelvet,wool,corduroyorsuedebagexteriorwithashimmerysatinlining.Tryappliquéingfluffyfeltpatchesontolinen,denimorcanvas.Tryplaitingstripsofsilktomakebaghandlesforarealorfauxleatherorsuedebag.Tryaddingsilkorsatinpipingtoacottonorlinenbag.

Playingwithpattern

Patternedfabricscanbethehardesttoknowhowtocombine.Thereisnorightorwrong–gowithwhateveryoulike,butherearesomequickideastotry.

ClashingpatternsProvidedthecolours‘go’witheachotheryoucanhavefunclashingdifferentpatternedfabricstogether.Thisfloralprintworkswellwiththisstripeasthecoloursofthetwo

fabricstieinwitheachother.

SizingpatternsDon’tbeafraidtousefabricswithlarge-scalepatterns.Youdon’talwaysneedtohavethewholepartofapatternshowingonyourbag.Trycroppingoffaninterestingsectionofalargepatterntomakesmallersizedbagsoruseitforatrimonalargerbagforadifferentlook.

MatchingpatternsIfyou’dlikebothofyourexteriorandliningfabricstobepatterned,tryputtingthesmallerpatternedfabricontheinsideofyourbag.Thesmallerpatterninsidethebagwillbe

easierontheeyewhenyourbagisfullofyourbitsandbobs.

SourcingfabricsforbagmakingTherearelotsofwaystogetyourmittsonbag-makingfabricandnotallofthemrequireyoutopartwithanycash.Herearesomefabricsourcingideasandshoppingsuggestions.

Upcycling/repurposingoldfabricsBesidesbeinggoodforourplanetandkindtothewallet,repurposingisawaytoelongatethelifeofitemsthatwestilllovebutcannolongeruseintheiroriginalcapacity.Less-than-perfectitemssuchastablecloths,silkscarves,vintagedressesandcurtainscanbeallreincarnatedasoriginal,creativeandfunbags.Alsohuntaroundforoldbagsandpursesthatcanbetakenapartforspareslikebaghandles,clasps,andotherhardware–someofthevintagecomponentsaretrulybeautiful.Itemsforrepurposingcanbefoundeverywhere,fromyourrelative’satticstocharityshopsandjumblesales,toauctionwebsitesandeveninnewspaperadverts.

ShoppingfornewfabricsIt’sasadfactthatlocalhaberdasheryandfabricshopsareshuttingdownatfasterratethantheyareopeningup.Ibelieveinsupportingtheseshops

wheneverpossiblebecausetheyareoftenawonderfulsourceofinspirationandadvice,andalsotherearetimeswhenyouwanttotouchbeforeyoubuy.However,manytownsdon’thavethemsothankfullythereareloadsofonlinestoresstockedtotherafterswithlusciousfabrics.Aslongasyouhavealetterboxandacreditcardyoucanfeedyourfabricaddictioninjustafewclicks…ooohdangerous!Turntothebackofthebookformyrecommendedfabricsuppliers.

InterfacingandInterlining

Availableofftherollindifferentweightsandstrengths,interfacingandinterliningdolookfairlyboring,buthiddenunderneaththatdullexteriorliesomeprettyamazingpowers.Interfacingandinterliningstrengthenandreinforcefabricsandprovideinvisiblesupportandstructuretoyourbags,makingthemessentialingredientsinbagmaking.Thissupportmakesbagsmoredurableandthereforelongerlastingandbetterquality.Withoutitmostbagswilllookfloppyandfeelthinandunsubstantial.

Fromreinforcingsoftsilktomakingcottonfabricstiffandboxy(forwhenyouwantbagstostandupbythemselves)interfacingandinterliningchangethenatureoffabricsgivingyoutheflexibilitytousenearlyanyfabricsyouliketomakebags.

What’sthedifferencebetweeninterfacingandinterlining?

Interfacingsaretypicallyfusedtothebackoffabrics.Mostinterfacingsarefusible(alsoknownasiron-on).Fusibleinterfacinghasalayerofheat-activatedadhesiveononeside.Theadhesiveisactivatedbyacombinationofheatandsteamfromaniron.Simplylayitontothewrongsideofyourfabricandironitintoplace.Interfacingisparticularlygoodforreinforcingfabrics,inotherwordsmakingfabricsstifferandstronger.

Interliningsareusuallylayeredbetweentheexteriorandtheliningofbags.Interliningissoftandistypicallysew-in(asopposedtofusible)anditiscuttothesameshapeasthefabricpatternpiece(s).Theinterliningpieceispairedwiththefabricpieceandbotharetreatedasonelayerduringstitching,thustheinterliningisappliedbysewingitintotheseamsofyourbag.Interliningisparticularlygoodforaddingsupporttobagsbyaddingalayerofpadding–perfectiffabricsareonthethinsideand/oryouwantyourbagtofeelsoft,plumpandpadded.

Labellogic…It’seasytomuddletheinterfacingandinterliningafterthey’vebeeninyourstashforabit!Totaketheguessworkoutofidentifyingwhichiswhich,pinascrapofpapertothecornerofeachandmakeanoteofwhatitisfornexttime.

Needtoknow

Whenusingfusibleinterfacingalwayschooseaninterfacingthatislighterinweightthanyourfabric.Ifyouuseinterfacingthatistoostiffforyourfabric,thefabricwillloseitsnaturaldrapeandwillbecomepaper-likeandthereforepronetocreasing(justlikepaper).Withsew-ininterliningtheweight-to-fabricratioisn’tnearlyasimportantbecausecreasesintheinterliningwillnotshowuponyourfabric.Productnamesforinterfacingandinterliningsdifferfromcountrytocountry.Ifyoutellshopassistantsthatyouarelookingfora‘mediumweightfusibleinterfacing’,forexample,thatshouldbeenoughinformationforthemtodirectyoutotheproduct.

Ironingoninterfacing

1Placetheinterfacingpatternpieceshiny(adhesive)sidedownontotheWSofyourfabricpatternpiece,smoothdownandcarefullymatchupalledges.Placeacleandampclothontopoftheinterfacingandsetyour

irontotheinterfacingmanufacturer’srecommendedheatsetting.SeeFiga.

FigaThesteamgeneratedbythedampcloth(hereI’veusedacheckedteatowel)ensuresastrongbondbetweentheinterfacingandthefabric.

2Applyingmoderatepressuretotheinterfacingandfabric,presstheironontotheinterfacingthroughthedampcloth.Workingfromthecentretotheouteredges,presseachpartoftheinterfacingforthemanufacturer’srecommendtimeuntiltheinterfacingiscompletelybondedtothefabric.SeeFigb.

FigbThereshouldbenocreasesorbubblesinyourinterfacing.

Sewingininterlining

1PlacetheinterliningpatternpieceontotheWSofthefabricpatternpiece,matchupalledgesandtreatasonelayer.PinyourfabricpiecesRST(withinterliningattachedontheouterside).

2Stitchthefour-layeredsandwichtogetherwithyourpreferredseamallowance.SeeFigc.

FigcStitchingtheinterliningintotheseams(alongwiththefabrics)willsecuretheinterliningtothefabric.

Weightsofinterfacingandinterlining

Justlikefabrics,interfacingandinterliningareavailableindifferentweights.Thethicker/stiffertheinterfacingandinterliningthemoresupporttheywillprovide.Thetrickistocombinetheappropriateweightofinterfacing/interliningwithyourchoiceoffabrics,andthiswillcomewithtrialanderror.However,theinformationhere,alongwiththetableinChoosingFabrics,shouldhelpyoutomakeinformedchoicesandsaveyoutimeandfrustration.

Medium-weightfusibleinterfacing(wovenandnon-woven)Usewithquilt-weightcotton,heavysilk/satin,medium-weightwool/syntheticsandfinelinen.

Heavyweightsew-ininterliningUseinbetweentheexteriorandliningofyourbagswhenyourequireonlyalittlepadding.

Heavyweight/firmfusibleinterfacingUsewithupholsteryweightfabrics,heavylinen,denimandheavywool.

ThegreatexperimentIsuggestyoutrymyinterfacing/interliningsuggestionstosavetime,butdonotethattherearesomanydifferentfabricsoutthereandsomanywaysthatyoucancombinethemthattheverybestwaytolearnaboutwhichinterfacing/interliningtouseistoexperiment–youmayfindtheperfectproductforyourchosenfabricisnottheoneIhavesuggested.However,don’tworryifyouendupbuyingthewrongproductbecauseinterfacing/interliningissousefulyou’llbesuretouseitonsomethingelseinthefuture.

Sew-infleece/waddingUsewithanyfabricstoaddamoresubstantialpaddedandspongyfeel.

Fusiblefleece/waddingUsewithanyfabricthatyouwanttoaddsupportandalightpaddingto.Greatforsilk/satinswhenyouwanttostrengthenthefabricbyaddingsupportbehindthefabricwithoutmakingitatallcrispbyusingnormalfusibleinterfacing.Veryconvenienttouseasyou

canfuseityourfabrics.Greatforallotherfabricswhenyouwanttostrengthen/reinforcethefabricwhileretainingitsdrape(orfluidity).

Extrathick/ultra-firm/craftweightAvailableasfusibleandsew-invarieties.Thoughitisextrafirmitstillhasadegreeofflexibility.Itisperfectforaddingamorerigidstructureandboxiershapetoyourfabrics.Whenappliedtoorcombinedwithyourfabricthisinterfacingcanmakethefabric

firmenoughtostandupright.

Stickittome!Anotheroff-the-rollproductisfusibleweb.Thiscleverstuffisaheat-activatedadhesivethatlookslikefinespider’sweb.Itisusedtobondtwolayerstogether.

Fusiblewebisneitherinterfacingnorinterlining.Youcanusefusiblewebtobondyourfabricstoyourinterfacing–thisisveryusefulforexamplewhenyourfusibleinterfacingisn’tadheringtoyourfabricsproperlyorwhenyouwantyourinterfacingtobefusibleonbothsides.Fusiblewebisalsobrilliantforappliquéwork.

Makeit…TheReversibleBucketBagHalfthefunofmakingthischeerfulbagischoosingthreefabricsthatalllookfabuloustogether.Onceyouhavechosenthefabricsyou’llfindthisbagjustkindofmakesitself!Themoreyoupieceittogether(likeacolourfuljigsaw)themoreyou’llwanttoseetheyummyfinishedresult.Popaprettyfabricflowerontothebuttonclosureforanextratouchofcuteness.

FrontviewAfabricflowerembellishedself-coverbuttonwithabroochpinmakesaneye-catchingbagclosure,andtheprettycontrastbindingdoesdoubleduty–itbindstheliningandtheexterior

bagstogetheranditformsthebaghandlestoo.

ReversedFancyachange?Reversethebagforadifferentlook.Pinthebuttonclosuretowhicheversideyouhappentobeusingtoday.

BottomviewForasmartandcohesivelookusethesamecontrastfabricasthebindingforthebagbase.

Needtoknow

Heavierweightfabricsfortheexteriorarenotrecommended;mediumweightfabricisbestbecausetherewillbequiteafewlayerstoworkwithatthetopedgeofthebag.Choosethreefabricsthatareallthesameweight.Aslongasyouareconsistent,itdoesn’tmatterwhichfabricisinterfacedwiththefusibleinterfacingandwhichfabricisinterfacedwiththefusiblefleece.

Allseamallowancesare1cm(3⁄8in)unlessstatedotherwise.Patternpiecesaregiveninthepull-outsectionandincludethe1cm(3⁄8in)seamallowance.

Youwillneed

•1pieceofmediumweightfabricforexterior,50cm(1⁄2yd)x112cm(44in)wide

•1pieceofmediumweightfabricforlining,50cm(1⁄2yd)x112cm(44in)wide

•1pieceofmediumweightfabricforcontrastbinding,baseandbuttonclosure,50cm(1⁄2yd)x112cm(44in)wide

•Mediumweightwovenfusibleinterfacing,50cm(1⁄2yd)•Fusiblefleece,50cm(1⁄2yd)•Sewingthreadstomatchthefabrics•50mmbiastapemaker•1self-coverbutton,4cm(11⁄2in)•1safetypin,2cm(3⁄4in)•Disappearingmarker

PreparationCutthefabricandinterfacingpiecesasfollows:

FromTheReversibleBucketBag(mainbody)patternpiece(seeTemplates)

•2xexteriorfabric•2xliningfabric•2xfusiblefleece•2xfusibleinterfacing

FromTheReversibleBucketBag(base)patternpiece(seeTemplates)

•2xcontrastfabric•1xfusiblefleece•1xfusibleinterfacing

TransferallpatternnotchesandmarkingstothefabricwithadisappearingmarkerAlsocut:

•2bias-cutstripsofcontrastfabric,86x10cm(34x4in),forthesidetopedgetrimandbaghandles

•2bias-cutstripsofcontrastfabric,29x10cm(111⁄2x4in),forthecentretopedgetrim

•1stripofcontrastfabric30x6cm(12inx23⁄8in),forthebuttonloop•2piecesoffusibleinterfacing,5cm(2in)square,forthebuttonreinforcement

Funkyfabrics…Forastrikingandgraphiclookingbagtrythisfabriccombination–twodifferentcolouredplainfabricswithacontrastingboldplainorpatternedfabricforthebindingandbase.

Thebinding,buttonloop,self-coverbuttonandinterfacing

1Makethebinding–takethefourbias-cutcontrastfabricstripsandrefertoMakingYourOwnBiasBindingfortheinstructions.

2Makethebuttonloop–takethebuttonloopcontrastfabricandfollowthestepsofOpen-EndStrapstomakeoneopen-endstrap.Withtheshortrawedgespointingupwardsfoldthestrapinhalfwidthways.Formatriangletipatthebottomfold.Stitchthetriangletipinplace(atthebaseofthetriangle)ontothebuttonloop.SeeFiga.

FigaFlattenthetipatthebottomofthelooptoformaneattriangle.

3Maketheself-coverbutton–takeascrapofcontrastfabricandfollowtheinstructionsonthepacktomaketheself-coverbutton.Decoratetheself-coverbuttonwithaprettyfabricyo-yoflowerifdesired,followingtheproductmanufacturer’sinstructions(seeSelf-coverButtons).Insertaprettybuttoninthemiddleandglueittotheself-coverbutton.Insertthesafetypinthoughtheshankoftheself-coverbuttonatthebackandsetaside.

4Interfacethefabricpieces–matchthefusibleinterfacingpatternpiecestotheirpartnerexteriorpatternpiecesandironthemtotheWSofthefabricpieces.SelectamainbodyexteriorpiecetobethebagfrontandirononeofthebuttonreinforcementsquarestotheWScentre,4cm

(11⁄2in)downfromthetopedge.Repeatwiththeliningfabricpatternpieces,fusiblefleecepatternpiecesandbuttonreinforcementsquare.

Thebagexterior

5Stitchthemainbodypiecestogether–bringtheexteriormainbodypiecesRST.Matchalltheedges,pinandstitchtogetheratbothsideedges.

6Stitchthebasetothebag–bringtheexteriorbasetotheexteriorbagRST.Matchalledgesandmatchthebasenotchestothenotchesonthebottomedgeofthebag.Pinandstitchallaround.SeeFigb.Ifthereisexcessfabricatthecurvededgesofthebasemakesmallpleatsatthecurvesandstitchthroughthem–theywillformattractivegathersatthesides(seePleats).Clipthecurvededges.TurnRSO.

FigbPinandstitchonthebagside–it’seasierthanstitchingonthebaseside.

Thebaglining

7Makeuptheliningbag–maketheliningbaginthesamewayastheexteriorbag(steps5and6).

Assemblingthebag

8Bringtheliningbagandtheexteriorbagtogether–placetheliningbagWSOintotheexteriorbagRSO.Thewrongsidesofthebagsshouldnowbetouchingeachother.Neatlymatchtherawtopedgesofbothbagsandpintogetherallaround,4cm(11⁄2in)downfromthetopedge.SeeFigc.

FigcCarefullymatchthetopedgesandpintheliningandexteriorbagtogether4cm(11⁄2in)downfromthetopedge.

Thebaglining

Thebaglining

9Stitchthebuttonlooptothebag–takethebuttonloopRSU(withrawedgespointingupwards)andplaceitontothecentretopedgebagback(ontheliningside).Matchthetopedgesandstitchthelooptothebag(throughalllayers)witha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.

10Stitchthecentretopedgebindingtothebag–takeoneofthecentretopedgetrimbiasbindingstripsandbindthecentretopedgeoftheexteriorbagfront–seeBoundEdges(excepttherearenooverlappingedgestoworkwith).Repeatwiththeothercentretopedgebindingpieceandthebackofthebag.Onthebackofthebag,liftupthebuttonloop(sothetriangletipontheloopispointingupwards)andstitchtheloopintheuppositiontothetopedgeofthebag(throughthebinding)3mm(1⁄8in)downfromtheedge.SeeFigd.

FigdFoldthebuttonloopupwardsandstitchinplacetothebinding.

Thesidetopedgesandhandles

11Bindthesidetopedgesofthebagback–takethesidetopedgebias-cutcontrastfabricstripRSUandstartbindingthesidetopedgesoftheexteriorbagback.Seesteps1–2ofBoundEdges(andtherestofthisstep).Workingfromlefttorightstartpinningandstitchingthebindingtothebag5mm(3⁄16in)totheleftofthesideseam.SeeFige1.Whenyour

bindingstitchesreachthetopedgeofthecurvedcentretopedge,stopstitchingandsecurewithseveralbackstitches.Taketheotherendofthebindingandpinandstitchittotheothersideofthebag(begin5mm/3⁄16intotherightofthesideseamandworkrighttoleft).

Fige1Beginpinningthebindingtothetopedgeofthebag5mm(3⁄16in)beforethesideseam.

12Completethebindingprocess–seeBoundEdges,step4(andtherestofthisstep)tocompletethebindingasfollows.Foldupthebindingoverthetopedgeofthebagandpin.Fromthepointswherethebindingcurvesawayfromthetopedgeofthebag,foldthebindingperfectlyinhalftoformabaghandle.Youmayneedtoironanewcentrefoldinthebindingtodothis.Pinthebaghandleedgestogether.Topstitchthefoldedbindingtothebag.Stitchoverthecurvedtopedgecornersagaintostrengthenthebaseofthebaghandles.SeeFige2.

Fige2Thetopstitchingalongthesideedgebindingshouldflowsmoothlyintothebaghandle.Topstitchagainatthebaghandlebasetostrengthenthestressarea.

13Bindthesidetopedgesofthebagfront–bindthebagfrontinthesamewayasforthebagbackexceptyouneedtakethebindingRSUandfoldtheshortedgesundertotheWS5mm(3⁄16in)beforeyoubeginbinding.Beginpinningandstitchingthebindingatthesideseams–thefoldedshortedgesofthebinding(atthesideseams)shouldoverlaptherawshortedgesofthebindingfromthebacksideofthebag.SeeFigf.

FigfPlacetheshortedgesofthefrontbindingoverthetopoftheshortedgesofthebackbindingsotheyoverlap.

14Finishingtouches–decidewhichbagsideyouprefertodayandpinthebuttontothefrontofthebag.

AboveHavefunchoppingandchangingyourfabricchoicestomakecompletelydifferentlookingbags.Trymakingapetiteversionofthisbag(seeModifyingPatterns)indeepcolouredvelvetsandsatinsforasweetlysophisticatedeveningbag.Ortryinsertinganeasy-to-makeslippocket

ontothebag(seeSlipPocket).Thetimetodothiswouldbebetweensteps4and5.

3:StructureAndReinforcementThischapterlooksatvariouswaysyoucanadd‘va-va’volumeandsomeexciting3Dshapelinesstoyourcreations.Itthenlooksatsomewaysyoucanreinforceyourbagstohelpensurethattheykeeptheirshape.Inbagmaking,structureandreinforcementgohandinhandsoit’simportanttohaveanunderstandingofbothbeforeyoudoanyfabriccutting.Thetablebelowdetailsdifferentvolumeaddingfeatures(VAFs),theirbenefits,andsuggestionsfortheiruse.

Turnupthevolume…Anystyleofbagcanbenefitfromsomevolumeaddingfeatures.Soit’stimetostepawayfromthepancake-flattotebagandmakesomenoise!

VolumeAddingFeatures

Benefits SuggestedUses

Darts

Quickandeasytoapply.Doesnotrequireextrafabric.Versatileandneatinappearance.

Anysizeofpurseorbag,fromlittlecoinpursestooversizedbags.Alsogreatonbagpockets.

Pleats

Decorativeandversatile.Addoneorseveralpleatstoaddinterestaswellasvolume.

Anysizeofpurseorbag,fromlittlecoinpursestooversizedbags.Alsogreatonbagpockets.

GussetsThemosteffectivewaytoaddmaximumdepthandcapacity.

Overnightbags,sportsstylebags,wornoverthebodysatchelsandhold-alls.Alsogreatonbagpockets.

FlatAquickandeffectivewaytoaddvolumetothe

Anysizeofpurseorbag,fromlittlecoinpursestooversized

FlatBottoms

toaddvolumetothebottomofyourbagandtoflattenthebottom.

littlecoinpursestooversizedbags.Alsogreatonbagpockets.

Gathers Quickandeasytoapply,decorativeandversatile.

Manytypesofbags,pockets,walletandjournaltabclosures.Alsogreatonbagpockets.

DartsAddingasoftconicalshapetowherevertheyareapplied,dartslookespeciallyattractiveonthebottomcornersofcurvyorroundedcorneredbags.SeeDarts.

PleatsAnexcitingwaytoaddtexturetoyourbags,thefoldsplaywiththelighttocreateinterestingshapes.Crispfoldedpleatscanlookcuteandpreppyortheycanlookartyand

structural,dependingonfabricandplacement.SeePleats.

GussetsAddingagussettoyourbagwilleffectivelyaddsidepanelsandwillalsoaleveloffthebagbottom.Agussetisagreatwayofincreasingthesizeofyourbagwithoutitappearingmuch

bigger.SeeGussets.

FlatBottomsThesearequickandsupereasytoinsertintoyourbags.Withaflatbottomyourbagwillhaveanice3Dshape,willstanduprightandyourstuffwon’trollaroundinside.SeeFlat

Bottoms.

GathersYoucouldsaythatgathersarethemorecasualcousintopleatsbecausegathersdon’trequireyoutofoldyourfabricneatlyandtheygiveasofter,less-structuredappearance.See

Gathers.

DartsDartsareaneasywaytoaddasmalltomediumamountofvolumetoyourbags.Theyaddaslightconicalshapetowherevertheyareplaced.Dartsareusuallyplacedonthebottomcornersofbags,pursesandpockets,andcanbeinsertedontocurvedorlinearbagcorners.

Youwillneed

•Ruler

Testingtimes…Toseewhatyourdartswilllooklikeonyourbag,experimentwithapieceofpaper.Beforefabriccutting,thegoldenruleistest,testandtestagain.

Needtoknow

AdartbeginslifeasaV-shapethatjutsoutofthebagpatternoutline(whichalwayspointsintowardsthemiddleofthepattern).Thelengthandangleofthedartaredictatedbythepatternmarkings.Thelongerthelinesandthewidertheangleonthepatternis,thelongerandpointierthedartis.Allseamallowancesare5mm(3⁄16in)unlessstatedotherwise.SewyourdartsBEFOREyousewupyourbagliningandBEFOREyousewupyourbagexterior.

1Decideonthedartpositionanddrawthedartsonthepattern–Itendtopositionmydartsslap-bangontothebottomcornersofmybags.Whendrawingdartsontoyourbagpatternit’simportantthatthedartsareasymmetricalV-shape–thedartlinesneedtobethesamelengthoneitherside.SeeFiga.

FigaThedartissymmetricalasbothofthedartlinesareofequallength.

2Cutoutthefabricandsewthedarts–cuttheV-shapeofthedartoutofyourfabric.ThenfoldtheV-shapeinhalf,RSTcarefullymatchtherawedgesandholdinplacewithyourfingers(orpinifyouprefer).SeeFigb.Stitchalongthelongrawedgeofthedartwithatleasta5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.Repeatwiththeotherdarts.

FigbFoldthedartinhalfandmatchupalltherawdartedgesbeforestitching.

3Withthedartssewn,assemblethelining/exterior–bringyourbaglining/exteriorpiecesRSTandwhenmatchingupthebottomandsideedgespayattentiontothedartlinestoensurethattheymatch.SeeFigc.Aftermatchingupyourdartlinesyoucanthenmatchuptheedgesoftherestofthebag,pinandstitchthelining/exteriortogether.Continuewiththeconstructionoftherestofyourbag(seeConstruction).

FigcNoticehowthedartlinesofthetwohalvesofthebagflowintoeachother,makingahighlyprofessional-lookingdart.

Strengthandbeauty…Whensewingdartsintothebagexterior,teamyourexteriorfabricwithsomesortofinterliningorinterfacing(seeInterfacingandInterlining).Thisstrengthensthedartandgivesitamoreattractiveappearance.

PleatsPleatsnotonlyaddvolumetoyourbags,theyalsoaddalotofvisualinterestgivingyouagreatopportunitytoplaywithyourfabricchoicesandpleatposition.Ifyouthinkthelookisright,youcanaddpleatstoanybagorpurse.

Youwillneed

•Ruler•Disappearingmarker•Extracontrastfabricifmakingpeek-a-boopleats(seePeek-a-BooPleats)•Pressingcloth

Needtoknow

Pleatingfabricsmeansbuildinguplayers,sounlessyouaresewingwithfinefabricthatneedsstabilizing,choosealighterweightinterfacingoritwillgettoobulkyforyoursewingmachine.Pleatscanrunfromtoptobottom,oryoucanchoosetopleatjustfromthetopofthebagandletyourpleatsflareouttowardsthebottom.Whenpatternmaking,remembertoaddwidth/lengthtoyourpatternpiece(s)toaccommodateyourpleats.Allseamallowancesare1cm(3⁄8in)unlessstatedotherwise.InsertyourpleatsBEFOREyouassembleyourbagexterior/bagpockets.

1Decideonthepleatnumberandpositionandmarkyourpattern–afterdecidingonthenumber,sizeandpositionofyourpleats,markthepleatsonyourbagpattern.IusuallydrawpleatnotchmarkingsonmypatternsoIknowwheretofoldmyfabricconcertinafolds.SeeFiga.

Pleatpractice…Whendecidingonthefoldsizeandnumberofpleats,tryexperimentingwithyourpaperpatternstoseewhatlooksrightforthesizeofyourbag.

Figa1–a2Makenotchmarkingsforyourpleatfoldssoyouknowwheretoconcertinafoldthefabric…likeso.

2Decideifyouwantthepleatstorunfromtoptobottomorjustfromthetopofyourbag–ifyouwantthepleatstorunfromtoptobottomaddcorrespondingpleatnotches(tothoseyoumadeinstep1)tothebottomedgeofyourpattern.Ifyoudon’twantthepleatstoruntothebottomthere’snoneedtomakefurtherchangestoyourpattern.

3Cutoutthefabricandfoldyourpleats–cutoutthefabricpiecesandtransferthepleatnotchmarkingstoyourfabric.Usingyournotchmarkingsasaguide,carefullyfoldthepleatsandironintoplaceusingapressingcloth.SeeFigb.

FigbIroningthepleatswillhelpthemtostayinplaceandlookcrisp.Usingapressingclothwillprotectyourfabricfromscorchmarksandshininess.Youcanuseanycolourfastmid-weight

cottonfabricasapressingcloth.

4Stitchyourpleatsintoplace–sewalineofstitchesabout5mm(3⁄16in)fromthetopedge.Ifthepleatsrunfromtoptobottomsewalineofstitchesalongthebottomedgeofthepleatstoo.SeeFigc.Continuewiththeconstructionoftherestofyourbag(seeConstruction).

Sittingpretty…Ifyoulikeyoucaninsertstripsofprettyfabricsinsideyourpleatstomakescrummypeek-a-boopleats.FullinstructionsforthesecanbefoundinTheVersatileBookBagproject.

FigcSewingalineofstitchesalongthetopedgeofyourpleatswillsecuretheminplacewhileyougetonwithconstructingtherestofyourbag.

GussetsYoucanaddgussetstoflatorcurvedbottombags–theyarethemosteffectivewaytoaddthemaximumamountofvolume.Whileaddingsidepanelstoyourbags,theyalsoflattenthebottomtoo.Oneofthebiggestpitfallsisthatifyoudon’tplanyourpatternproperlyyou’llfindyourselfwithadreadedtwistedgusset.Thesimplesecrettosewinganon-twistedgussetistouseplentyofnotchmarkings.

Youwillneed

•Disappearingmarker•Ruler

Needtoknow

Togaugethelengthofyourgussetpattern,measurearoundtheoutlineofyourmainbagbodypatternpiecesandadd10cm(4in).Thisleavesyouwitha5cm(2in)marginforerroroneithershortendofthegusset.Ifyourgussetislongerthanthewidthofyourfabricyoucansewtwoequallengthstripsoffabrictogethertomakeupthelength.Asthejoinwillbeonthebottomofyourbagitwon’tbeonshow.Allseamallowancesare1cm(3⁄8in)unlessstatedotherwise.SewyourgussetAFTERaddinganypocketstoyourlining/exterior.

Digdeep…Whendecidingonthedepthofyourgusset,experimentwithyourpaperpatternstoseewhatlooksrightforthesizeofyourbag.Putwhatyouplantocarryinyourbagonthetableandusethatasaguidetofigureouthowdeepthegussetshouldbe.

andusethatasaguidetofigureouthowdeepthegussetshouldbe.

1Makeupthegussetpatternpiece–decideonthedepthofyourgussetandaddyourseamallowancetoyourchosendepth.Forexample,ifyouwantyourgussettobe8cm(31⁄8in)wideandyouaresewingwithaseamallowanceof1cm(3⁄8in),theoverallgussetpatternpiecewillbe10cm(4in)wide.Whenyouhavedecidedonthewidthofyourgussetpattern,findthelengthofyourgusset(seeNeedtoknow).

Lessismore…It’sagoodideatoerrontheconservativesidewhendecidingonthedepthofyourgusset.Ifyouoverdoitonthegussetwidthyourbagwilljutoutquiteadistancefromyourbodyandwillenduplookingmorelikeaboxthanabag.

2Addcorrespondingnotchmarkstoyourgussetpatternandthemainbagbodypattern–foldyourbaggussetpatterninhalfwidthwaysandwithdisappearingmarker/chalkmarkthecentreonbothlongedges.Makeacorrespondingcentremarkonthecentrebottomedgeofthemainbagbodypattern.Makemorenotchmarksonyourgussetpatterninthesamewayatequalintervals,rememberingtoputnotchmarkingsonbothlongedgesofthegusset.Nowaddcorrespondingnotchmarkingstothemainbagbodypatternasbefore.Addingnotchesupthebottomcornersisusuallysufficient,butyoucanalsonotchupthesidesifyouwanttobeextrasafe.SeeFiga.Youarenowreadytocutoutyourfabricpieces.

Figa1–a2Markthecentreofthebaggussetonbothlongedgesandthenaddmorenotchmarkingsonbothlongedges;makecorrespondingnotchmarkingsonyourmainbagbody

pattern.

3Pinandstitchthegussettoonebagbodypiece–bringthebaglining/exteriorandbaglining/exteriorgussetRST,carefullymatchuptherawedgespayingextraattentiontobringingthenotchmarkingsonthegussetandmainbagbodytogethersothattheyallcorrespond.Start

pinningthegussettothebagbodypieceatthebagbottomedgeandworkyourwayupthesides.SeeFigb.You’llnoticethatthegussetistoolongforthebagbodypiece(theextralengthistherejustincasethingsdon’tquitegotoplan)–youcantrimofftheexcesslater.Repeattheprocessfortheothersideofthegussetandtheotherbagbodyfabricpiece.Whenyouhavecompletelysewnthegussettoyourlining/exteriortrimoffanyexcessfabricatthetopofthegussetsides.Clipthecurves(ifappropriate)andirontheseamsopen.Continuewiththeconstructionoftherestofyourbag(seeConstruction).

FigbTakethetimetomatchupthenotchesonyourgussetandthemainbagbodycarefullyandyou’llsewaneatandnon-twistedgusset.

FlatBottomsAddingaflatbagbottomtoabagisaseasyaspie.It’saninstantwaytoaddvolumeanda3Dshapetothebottomofyourbags.Thistutorialdescribeshowtoinsertaflatbottomintoasimpleflatrectangletotebag,butyoucanusethissimpletechniqueonlotsofdifferentbags,pursesandwallets.

Youwillneed

•Rulerorgriddedcuttingmat•Disappearingmarker•Griddedbagbottom(optional–useifyouwanttoreinforcethebottomofyourbag–seeReinforcement)

•Bagfeet(optional–useifyouwanttoprotectthebottomofyourbagformdirtandscrapes–seeTheMulti-TaskingTote,step13)

Needtoknow

Todeterminetheoverallheightofyourpatternpiece,addthefinishedbagheightmeasurementtoyourbagbottomdepthmeasurement,plustwolotsofyourchosenseamallowance.Todeterminetheoverallwidthofyourpatternpiece,addthefinishedwidthmeasurementtothedepthmeasurement,plustwolotsofseamallowance.Allseamallowancesare1cm(3⁄8in)unlessstatedotherwise.

1Sewupyourrectangletotelining/exterior–stitchyourbaglining/exteriorRSTalongthesideandbottomedges.

2Flattenthebottomcornertomakeyourbagbottomflat–graboneofthebottomcornersofthelining/exteriorandmatchthesideseamlinewiththebottomseamline(lookintoyourbagtoseeifthesideseamandthebottomseamsmeetandflowintoeachother).Completelyflattenthebagcornertoformatriangleandpintosecure.SeeFiga.

FigaFlattenthebagcornertomakeatriangle.Ensurethesideseamlinesupwiththebottomseam.

3Measureandmarkyourchosenflatbottomdepth–let’ssay,forexample,youwantyourbagbottomtobe9cm(31⁄2in)indepth.Tomakeyourbagbottom9cm(31⁄2in)deep,allyouneedtodoismeasureandmarkalinethatis90degreestothesideseamandis9cm(31⁄2in)longacrossthewidthofthetriangle.Agriddedcuttingmatcomesinveryhandyforthisjob.SeeFigb.

Mockitup…Toseewhatyourflatbottomwilllooklikeonyourbag,experimentwithapieceofpaperoryourpattern.

FigbUsearulerorgriddedcuttingmattoensurethattheflatbottomsidelineisataperfectrightangletothesideseamandisyourchosenflatbottomdepthmeasurementinlength,inthiscase

9cm(31⁄2in)long.

4Stitchtheflatbottom–stitchalongtheflatbottomlinemarkyoumadeinstep3.Besuretosewsecuringstitchesatbothends.Tofinish,trimoffanyexcessfabricfromthetriangle,butnottooclosetheseam.SeeFigc.

Figc1–c2Stitchalongthemarkedlineandtrimofftheexcessfabricfromthetriangle.

GathersGathersareaquick-and-easywaytoaddvolumeandto‘prettyup’yourbags.Thetechniqueofgatheringfabricisalsousedinmakingruffles.Gathersareeasiertoworkwithandmosteffectiveworkedinmediumtolighterweightfabricsthatlendthemselvestoabitmorecoaxingandteasing.

Youwillneed

•Disappearingmarker•Ruler

Gracefulgathers…Whendecidingonthesizeofyourgatherstryexperimentingwithyourpaperpatternstoseewhatlooksrightforyourbag.Don’tcutthefabricmorethandoublethewidthofthefinishedbag,asthegatherswilllookunwieldy.

Needtoknow

Forbig,puffygathersmeasuredoubletheamountoffabrictoyourchosenfinishedbagwidth/length.Ifyouwantthefinished(gathered)widthofyourfabrictobe30cm(12in)youneedtocut60cm(24in).Forsofter,subtlergathersreducetheamountoffabric.Gatherscanrunfromtoptobottomoryoucanchoosetogatherjustfromthetopofthebagandletyourgathersflareouttowardsthebottom.Allseamallowancesare5mm(3⁄16in)unlessstatedotherwise.

1Decideonthewidthandpositionofyourgathersonthepattern–forexample,areyougoingtogatherthewholewidthofyourbagorjustthecentresection?Whenyouhavedecidedonyourgatherwidth(andthereforeyourfabricwidth)markyourpatternwithtwopointswithinwhichyouwantyourgatherstoappear.

2Decideifyouwantyourgatherstorunfromtoptobottomorjustfromthetopofyourpattern–ifyouwantthemtorunfromtoptobottomaddtwocorrespondinggatherpoints(tothoseyoumadeinstep1)tothebottomedgeofyourpattern.Ifyoudon’twantyourgatherstoruntothebottomnofurtherpatternchangesareneeded.

3Cutoutthefabricandsewalineofrunningstitchacrossyourgatherfabric–cutoutyourfabricandtransferthetwogatheringpointsontoyourfabric.Setyoursewingmachinetothelongeststitchandyourbobbintoaveryloosetension.Leavinglongthreadtailsatbeginningandend,stitchalineofstraightstitchesbetweenthetwogatheringpointswithoutsewingsecuringstitchesateitherend.Pullonthebobbinthread(thebottomthread)togatherupyourfabrictoyourchosenwidth.SeeFiga.Distributethefabricgathersevenlywithyourfingers.Setyourmachinetoyournormalstitchlengthandtensionbeforesewinganotherlineofstitchesacrossthetopofyourgatherstosecuretheminplace.Removetheloosestitchthreadsanddiscard.Ifyourgathersrunfromtoptobottomrepeatforthebottomedge.Continuewiththeconstructionoftherestofyourbag(seeConstruction).

FigaAlongstitchlengthandloosebobbintensionwillenableyoutopullonthebobbinthreadtogatherupthefabric.

ReinforcementWehavejustlookedatvarioustechniquesforaddingvolumetobags,butinorderforyourvolumizedbagstoretaintheirshapeweoftenneedtocallinreinforcements.Bagmakingreinforcementscomeintheshapeofcertainotherproductsandtechniques.AswesawinChapter2,yournumberonedefenceagainst‘saggybag’isinterfacingandinterlining,butsometimesyoujustwantabitmore…Herearesomeproductsthatyoucanusetofurtherreinforceyourbags:

PolyesterboningThisisafirmbutflexiblespringystripofnylonthatisoftenusedincorsetmaking.Itsflexible,stiffeningpropertiesmakeitperfectforaddingsupporttosideseamsandbagopenings.Sewdirectlyintoseamallowancestoadda‘flexi-skeleton’toyourbags.Youcaneithersewtheboningintooneseamallowancelayer,orrightthroughbothlayers,orevenonepieceofboningoneachlayerofyourseamallowanceforsupersupport.Youwillneedtoensureyour

seamallowancesarewideenoughtoaccommodatethewidthoftheboning.Alsoensurethatyourboningisshorterthanthelengthofyourseam.Becausepolyesterdoesnotbendeasily,the

boningshouldn’twraparoundyourseamsinacontinuousstrip.

GridbagbottomThisiseasytocutandshapeandprovidesadurableflexiblestiffnesstothebottomorsidepanelsofyourbags.Neveruseamateriallikecardboardasasubstitutebecausenomatterhowstiffthecardboardisitwontstanduptoeventualwearandtear,pluscardboardisn’twaterproof.Thisfirmbutflexiblematerialwillreinforceandgivedefinitiontoyourbag

bottoms.Youcanalsotryitinthesidesofbagsforuprighthold-alls,forexample.

FleeceAlsoknownaswaddingorbatting,thissoftandspongymaterialisavailableofftherolleitherasasew-inlayerorfusible(seeSew-inFleece/WaddingandFusibleFleece/Wadding).FleeceisbrilliantforaddingasoftandslightlysquishyfeeltoyourbagsandIuseitextensively.Fleecemakesbagsfeelmoresubstantialandinturn,betterquality.Cutoutthefleecealongwithyourbagpatternpiecesanduseinbetweenyourexteriorandlining.Ifyouwantalayerofsupport

inyourbagthatisyieldingratherthanfirm,alayer(ortwo)offleecewilldothejobnicely.

Makeit…TheCocktailRuffleClutchThispurseshapeisanenduringclassic.Makeonenowandloveitforyearstocome.Thecleanorigamilines,slightlyoverlongwidth,andthefunrufflecombinetomaketheclutchlookmodern,grown-upandtherightsideofinteresting.Thebodyoftheclutchisrigid,makingitsuitabletobeworntuckedunderyourarm,orwithitsembellishedchainhandletheclutchlooksjustasgoodwornasahandbag.Perfectforanuptownlunchdate,acityshoppingspreeorspecialnightout.

SideviewThisclutchhasanippyslimlineprofile.

BottomThepaperbag-stylebottomfoldsnotonlylookquietlycool,theyaddalittlevolumetothebagtoo.

HandleTheoptionalchainhandlehasbeenembellishedwithmatchingsilkfromtheclutch,addingtothe‘expensive’look.

Needtoknow

Tomakethisclutchyoursewingmachineneedstohaveafreearm.Aheavierfabricisbestfortheexteriorofthisbagbecauseitismeanttoberigid.Fauxorrealsuede/leatherisbestbecauseitdoesnotfray,whichisimportantfortheruffletrim.

Dupionsilkortaffetasilkworkbestastheliningandtriminthisclutchbecausetheyaremorehardwearingandfloppysilk/satinisnotsuitablefortheruffle.Useajeanssewingmachineneedlewhenusingheavyfabrics.Allseamallowancesare1cm(3⁄8in)unlessstatedotherwise.Patternpiecesaregiveninthepull-outsectionandincludethe1cm(3⁄8in)seamallowance.

Youwillneed

•1pieceofhomedecfabricforexteriorandruffletrim50cm(1⁄2yd)x1.5m(11⁄2yd)wide

•1pieceofsilkdupionfabricforliningandruffletrim,50cm(1⁄2yd)x1.5m(11⁄2yd)

•Ultra-firmfusibleinterfacing,50cm(1⁄2yd)•Single-sidedfusiblefleece,50cm(1⁄2yd)•Sewingthreadstomatchthefabrics•1pursechainwithlargelinksandspringhooks,approx64cm(25in)long•2D-rings,12mm(1⁄2in)•2magneticsnaps,14mm(1⁄2in)•Hand-sewingneedle•Disappearingmarker•Narrowdouble-sidedtape,3mm(1⁄8in)•Knittingneedle•10smallbulldogclips(optional–useinsteadofpinsifyourfabricisheavy)•Holepunch,4mm(1⁄8in)•Widewavyrotarycutter,rulerandcuttingmat•Cottonorlinenpressingcloth

PreparationCutthefabricandinterfacingpiecesasfollows:

FromTheCocktailRuffleClutch(mainbody)patternpiece(seeTemplates)

•2xexteriorfabric•2xultra-firminterfacing•2xliningfabric•2xfusiblefleece

FromTheCocktailRuffleClutch(flap)patternpiece(seeTemplates)

•1xexteriorfabric•1xultra-firmfusibleinterfacing•1xliningfabric•1xfusiblefleece

TransferallpatternnotchesandmarkingstothefabricwithadisappearingmarkerAlsocut:

•1pieceofliningfabric,24x15cm(91⁄2x6in),fortheinnerpocket•1pieceofexteriorfabric,50x6cm(191⁄2x23⁄8in),fortheruffletrim•1pieceofliningfabric,52x9cm(201⁄2x31⁄2in),fortheruffletrim•1pieceofliningfabric,12x10cm(43⁄4x4in),forthehandleloops•1pieceofliningfabric,6x75cm(23⁄8x291⁄2in),forthepursechaintrim•2piecesofultra-firmfusibleinterfacing,2.5cm(1in)square,forthemagneticsnapreinforcement

•1stripofultra-firmfusibleinterfacing,2.5x29cm(1x111⁄2in),fortheflapmagneticsnapreinforcement

Thehandle

1Makeupthehandleloops–takethehandleloopfabricpieceandfollowthestepsinOpen-EndStrapstomakeoneopen-endstrap.Divide

theresultingstrapintotwoequallengthsandthreadaD-ringontoeach

ofthehandleloops.Setaside.

2Makeupthepursechaintrim–takethepursechaintrimfabricpieceandfollowthestepsinClosed-EndStrapstomakeoneclosed-endstrap.Weavethestrapinandoutofthelinksofthepursechain.Foldeachendovertheendlinksofthechainandhandstitchdown.Setaside.

Theruffletrim

3Makethetoprufflelayer–taketheexteriorruffletrimfabricpieceandusingawavyrotarycutter,cutawavyedgealongbothlongedges.SeeFiga.Onbothlongedgesuseaholepunchtomakeholesalongthepeaksandtroughsofthewaves.

FigaThewavyedgewillgivethisruffleevenmore‘oomph’.

4Makethebottomrufflelayer–taketheliningruffletrimfabricpieceRSO,foldbothlongedgesunderby5mm(3⁄16in)andiron.Repeatandstitchthefolds3mm(1⁄8in)fromtheedge.Repeatforbothshortedgesoftheruffletrim.

5Combinetherufflelayers–laytheexteriorruffletrimRSUdownthecentrelengthoftheliningruffletrimRSU.Thereshouldbeanevenamountofliningrufflepeekingoutfromthetoplayeralongbothlongedges.Sewalineofgatheringstitchesinthecentredownthelengthoftheruffleasdescribedoninstep3ofGathersexceptyouwillneedtosewsecuringstitchesatthestartofyourstitches.Setaside.

Thebagexterior

6Interfacetheexteriorfabricpieces–trimoff12mm(1⁄2in)allaroundeachoftheultra-firminterfacingexteriorpiecestoreducebulkattheseams.Carefullylaytheultra-firmfusibleinterfacingpatternpiecesontotheWSofthecorrespondingexteriorfabricpatternpieceswithaneven12mm(1⁄2in)fabricborderallaroundandironinplace.Finally,ironthefusiblefleecepatternpiecesontotheWSofalloftheexteriorfabricpieces(directlyontothefusibleinterfacing).

7Insertthemagneticsnapstotheexteriorfront–insertthemagneticpartofthesnaptotheRSoftheexteriorbagfrontatbothmagneticsnappatternmarkings(seeSnaps).

8Stitchtheexteriorpiecestogether–bringtheexteriorpiecesRST,pinandstitchalongthesidesandbottom.Asyousewtakecaretopositiontheneedle2mm(1⁄16in)awayfromtheedgeoftheultra-firminterfacing.Thiswillleaveyouwithaseamallowanceof1cm(3⁄8in)anditwillreducebulkattheseams.SeeFigb.

FigbSewingatinydistanceawayfromtheinterfacingwillresultinneater-lookingseamsandwillmaketurningouteasier.

9Sewtheflatbottom–pinchoneofthebottom(squarecut-out)cornerstogether.Asyoupinchyouwillnoticethatthecornerwillformwhatlookslikeatrianglewitha‘sawn-off’tip.SeeFigc.Neatlymatchuptherawedgesofthesawn-offtip,holdsecurelyinplacewithyourfingersandstitchalongtherawedgewitha1cm(3⁄8in)seamallowance.Coveryourhandwithanovenmittorcleanteatowelsoyoucangetyourhandinsidethebaganduseitasamobileironingboardtoironthesideandbottomseamsopen.TurntheexteriorbagRSO.IrontheRSofthebagusingapressingclothandyourhand(cladinanovenmittasbefore)toironoutthecreases.

FigcPinchthesquarecut-outtogetherlikeso.

Leatherknow-how…Ifusingleather,onlypinintheseamallowancesoastonot‘scar’thefabricwithpinholesandusealeathersewingmachineneedle.IftheRSofyourleatherisshinyyoumayneedtouseanon-sticksewingmachinefoot.

10Creaseandtopstitchthepaperbag-stylebottom–usingadisappearingmarkermeasureandmark1.5cm(1⁄2in)atregularintervalsoneithersideandparalleltothebagbottomseamline.Useyourfingerstopinchalongthemarkstoformabottomedgecreaseateithersideofthebottomseam.Youshouldnowbeabletosquashthebottomoftheclutchflat(andthebottomedgecornersofthesideseamswillslopeinwardstowardsthebottomseam).Laythepressingclothoverthecreasesandsteamirontheminplace.Topstitchalongbothcreaseswitha3mm(1⁄8in)seamallowancethroughalllayers.SeeFigd.

FigdSeehowthefoldsresembleapaperbagbottom?

11Creaseandironthetopedgeoftheexterior–withtheexteriorbagRSOfoldthetopedgeoftheexteriordown1cm(3⁄8in)totheWS.Ironthefoldedtopedgetogetaniceandsharpcrease.SeeInsertingLinings:Drop-InMethod,step2.

Thebaglining

12Insertaslippocketintothelining–taketheinnerpocketfabricpiecesandfollowthestepsinSlipPockettomakeaslippocket.PinandstitchthepockettotheRScentreoftheliningbackfabric3cm(11⁄8in)downfromthetopedge.

13Pinandstitchtheliningbagtogether–assembletheliningasinTheCocktailRuffleClutchsteps8and9,butleaveagapof15cm(6in)onthebottomedgeoftheliningforturningout.

14Creaseandtopstitchthepaperbag-stylebottominthelining–createthepaperbagstylebottomfoldsinthelininginthesamewayasin

step10butdonotturntheliningRSO.ThecreasesarestitchedintotheWSofthelining.

15Creaseandironthetopedgeofthelining–withtheliningbagWSOfoldthetopedgeoftheliningdown1cm(3⁄8in)ontotheWS.Ironthefoldedtopedgetogetanicesharpcrease.SeeInsertingLinings:Drop-InMethod,step1.

Thebagflap

16Interfacetheflaplining–laythefusiblefleecepiecesontotheWSofthecorrespondingliningpiecesandironinplace.

17Reinforcethemagneticsnapareaontheflaplining–laytheultra-firmmagneticsnapreinforcementstripontotheflapWSflaplining(directlyontothefleece).Positionitinthecentre1.5cm(1⁄2in)upfromthebottomedgeofthefabric.Useapressingclothtoironitinplace.

18Insertthemagneticsnapstotheflaplining–insertthenon-magneticpartofthesnaptotheRSoftheflapliningatboththemagneticsnappatternmarkings(seeSnaps).

19Interfacetheflapexterior–trimoff12mm(1⁄2in)allaroundthebottomandsideedgesoftheultra-firminterfacingflappiece,thentrim6cm(23⁄8in)offthetopedge.Laythetrimmedultra-firminterfacingpieceontotheWSoftheflapexterior,withaneven12mm(1⁄2in)borderoffabricaroundthesidesandbottomandironinplace.

AboveExperimentwithcontrastingshadesfortheruffle,usingdifferentdepthsofthesamecolourasIhavehere,orusecontrastingcoloursasshowninthesteps.

20Pinandstitchtheflapliningtotheflapexterior–bringtheflapliningandexteriorpiecesRST,pinandstitcharoundedgesoftheflap,butleavea15cm(6in)gapinthetopedgeforturningout.Clipoffthecorners.TurntheflapRSOthroughthegap,smoothout,anduseafatknittingneedletopushthecornersout.UseapressingclothtoirontheRSandWSoftheflap.Finally,pushtherawedgesofthegapintotheholeandirontheedges.Topstitchtheflapallaroundthesides,topand

bottomedgeswitha3mm(1⁄8in)seamallowance,stitchingthegapshutasyougo.

Assemblingthebag

21Positionthebagflapontothebagexterior–applyastripofnarrowdouble-sidedtapeontotheWSoftheflap2cm(3⁄4in)upfromthetopedgeoftheflapandpeeloffthebackingstrip.PlacethenarrowertopedgeoftheflapRSOontotheflapplacementpatternmarkingontheclutchbackRSexteriorandpressfirmlyinplace.SeeFige.

FigePlacetheflapupsidedownontotheflappatternmarkingontheexteriorRSbackoftheclutch

22Stitchthebagflaptothebagexterior–stitchtheflaptotheexteriorbag5mm(3⁄16in)fromtheedgetheflap.Stitchanotherlineofstitches5mm(3⁄16in)awayfromthepreviouslineofstitchesforextrastrength.Removethedouble-sidedtape.

23Pintheliningbagtotheexteriorbag–inserttheliningbagWSOintotheexteriorbagRSO.Thewrongsidesoftheexteriorbagandtheliningbagshouldnowbetouchingeachother.Neatlymatchupthefoldedtopedgesoftheliningandtheexteriorbagsandpinorbulldogcliptogether.Donotpinorcliparoundthesideseams.SeeInsertingLinings:Drop-InMethod,step3.

24Stitchtheliningbagtotheexteriorbag–withthebagflapfoldeddownoutoftheway,beginstitchingtheliningandexteriorbagtogetherbytopstitchingallaroundthetopofthebagwitha3mm(1⁄8in)seamallowance.Asyouapproachthesideseams,stopsewingandleavetheneedleinthedownposition.Takeoneofthehandleloops(foldedinhalfwithD-ringattached)andinsertit(withtheD-ringpointingupwards)inbetweentheliningandexterior.Tuckthehandleloopdownintothebagsothereisonly1cm(3⁄8in)oflooppeekingout.Holdthehandleloopfirmlyinplacewithyourfingersandresumetopstitching(overtheloop).Repeatwiththeotherhandleloop.SeeInsertingLinings:Drop-InMethod,step3.

25Finishingtouches–taketheruffletrimandpullonthethreadtailtogatheruptherufflessothatitisthesamelengthasthebottomedgeofthebagflap.SeeFigf.Spacethegathersevenlywithyourfingers.Threadthehand-sewingneedlewiththethreadtailsandsecurethegatheringstitchesatthebackoftherufflewithseveralstitches.HandsewtheruffletrimtotheRSoftheflap.Stitchthroughtherufflebottomlayerandtheflapexteriorfabrictosewseveraltinystitchesatregularintervalsalongtheruffle.SeeFiggClipthechainhandleontotheD-ringsofthehandleloopsandgofindaparty!

FigfPullgentlyonthethreads(soastonotsnapthem)andgatheruptheruffles.

FiggToavoidthestitchesshowingontheliningsideoftheflapdonotstitchthroughalllayers.

4:LiningsWhiletheexteriorofyourbagshouldbeavisualtreat,theliningofyourbagshouldbejustasdelightfultolookatandtouse.Asyoureadthroughthisbookandtryyourhandatsomeoftheprojects,you’llnoticethatliningsaremadefromthesamepatternasthebagexterior.You’llalsonoticethattheprocessofassemblingtheliningtogetherisalmostidenticaltotheprocessofassemblingtheexterior(withoneortwoexceptions,whicharedescribedineachproject).Withthisinmind,thischapterisn’tabouthowtoconstructliningsbecausethatisalreadycoveredineachproject.Instead,itwilllookathowtomaketwotypesofzipinnerpocket.Itthenlooksattwodifferentmethodsforinsertingtheliningintoyourbags.

Quickcuts…Becausetheliningisoftencutfromthesamepatternastheexterior,youcansavesometimewithclevercuttingtechniques(seeFabricCuttingTips).

InnerPocketType

Benefits SuggestedUses

FlushZipPocket

Versatile,usefulandunobtrusive–keepsitemssafeandsecureinsideyourbag.Canbedecorativeusingacontrastingcolourzip.

Mainlyusedinliningsbutcanalsobeusedonbagexterior.

ZipPartitionPocket

Acleverpocket,whichnotonlyoffersincreasedorganizationbutalsoasecurezip-topedge.

Onlyusedinlinings.Greatforfoliocases,crafttotes,day-tripperbags,orvanitycases.

LiningInsertion Benefits SuggestedUses

InsertionMethod

Benefits SuggestedUses

Drop-In

Createsminimumdisturbancetothebagexterior.Liningcanbeshorterthanexteriorfabrictotaketheweightofbagcontents.

Firm,rigidbagsandthosemadefromfragileorstretchyfabricssuchasknittedwoolandcrochet.

PullThroughandTurnOut

Usefulwhenbaghandlesareheavybecauseyoudon’tneedtoholdthehandlesoutofthewayasyoustitchtheliningandtheexteriortogether.Bestforheavierbagsastheliningandexteriorarestitchedtogethertwice.

Softerstructurebagsandlargerheavy-dutybags.

FlushZipPocketThisisaneminentlyusefulandeasy-to-makepocket.Thoughthistypeofpocketisoftenfoundonabagliningthere’snothingstoppingyoufrompoppingazippocket(or

two)ontheexteriorofyourbagstoo.SeeFlushZipPocket.

Line‘emup…Theliningisanothergreatexcusetointroducemorecolourandpatterntoyourbag,nottomentionfeaturessuchaspocketsandzips.

ZipPartitionPocketThispocketbelongsinthebaglining.Notonlyisitusefulforaddingadividerintoyourbag,thezipperedtopalsomeansthatthispocketcanstoreyourHolyHandbag

Trinity:keys,moneyandphone.SeeZipPartitionPocket.

FlushZipPocketThisisprobablymymostcommonlyusedtypeofpocketbecauseit’ssouseful.Aflushzippocketistheperfectsolutionforkeepingimportantitemssafe.Thisstyleofpocketisusuallyplacedupandawayfromthebottomofyourbag.

Youwillneed

•Nylonall-purposezip,atleast10cm(4in)shorterthanthewidthofyourpocket(seetip)

•2piecesoffabricforthepocket.TogaugethewidthandheightofyourpocketfabricpiecesseeNeedtoknow

•Ruler•Hand-sewingneedle•Zippersewingmachinefoot•Seamripper•6mm(1⁄4in)double-sidedtape•Disappearingmarker

Needtoknow

Togaugethewidthofyourpocketfabricdecidehowwideyouwantyourpockettobeandaddtwolotsofseamallowance.Thepocketfabricwidthshouldalwaysbeatleast8cm(31⁄8in)longerthanyourzip.

Togaugetheheightofyourpocketfabricdecidehowhighyouwantyourpockettobe(measuringfromthezipitselftothebottomedgeofthepocket)andadd5cm(2in).Allseamallowancesare1cm(3⁄8in)unlessstatedotherwise.MakeupyourpocketsandstitchthemtoyourbagfabricBEFOREconstructingyourbags.

1Trimthezip–ifyourzipistoolong,trimittothedesiredlength.Cutthezipfromthezippullside.Ensurethatyouleaveatleasta2cm(3⁄4in)clearanceforthezipsideseamallowance.SeeFiga.

FigaTrimtheziptosizefromthezippullend.Ensurethatyouleavea2cm(3⁄4in)clearancetothesideofyourcutforthezipsideseamallowance.

Cutdowntosize…Itdoesn’tmatterifyourzipistoolongbecauseitcanbetrimmedtoyourdesiredlength(seestep1).

2Stitchthezippullendstogether–takeahand-sewingneedleandhandstitchthezippullendstogether.SeeFigb.

FigbHandstitchthezippullendstogetherforaprofessional-lookingzip–youdon’thavetobeveryneatasthesehandstitcheswon’tbeonshow.

3Markandmakeaholeforthezip–takeyourzipandmeasurethelengthofthezipteeth(notthelengthofthezipitself).Nowdrawarectangleaswideasyourzipteethby1cm(3⁄8in)highontotheWScentreofoneofthepocketfabricpieces.Thisrectanglewillbetheholeforyourzipanditneedstobedrawnatleast5cm(2in)downfromthetopedgeofyourpocketfabric.Finally,inthemiddleoftherectangledrawacentrelinewithaV-shapeatbothends.SeeFigc.

Figc1–c2Togaugethewidthoftherectangle,measurethelengthofthezipteeth(notthewholezip).Therectangularholeneedstobedrawnatleast5cm(2in)downfromthetopedgeofpocket

fabric.

4Stitchthepocketfabricpiecetoyourbagfabric–placethepocketfabricWSUontoyourbagfabricpieceatleast7cm(23⁄4in)downfromthetopedgeofyourbagfabrictoprovideenoughclearanceforyoutoaddinternalfasteners(ifusing)andforyoutosewyourliningtoyourexterioratalaterstage.Pinthepocketpieceintopositionandstitchthepocketfabrictothebagfabric–stitchonlyontherectangle.SeeFigd.

Figd1–d2Thereisaclearanceof7cm(23⁄4in)betweenthetopedgeofthepocketfabricandthetopedgeofthebagfabric;stitchonlyalongtherectangleoutline.

5Cuttherectangularholeandfeedthefabricthroughthehole–usingtheseamrippermakeasmallincisioninthecentrallineoftherectanglelargeenoughforyourscissors.Youneedtocutthoughbothlayersofthefabric.Cutalongtheentirelengthofthecentralline.AlsocutalongtheV-shapes,butavoidcuttingintothestitchingoftheouterrectangle.SeeFige.

FigeCutalongthecentralline.WhenyoureachtheV-shapes,cutintothemaswell,butdon’tgettooclosetotheouterrectanglestitching.

6Feedthepocketfabricthroughthehole–pullthepocketfabricthroughtherectangularholetotheWSofthebagfabric(asifyouarepostingafabricletter)SeeFigf.ThoroughlyirontheRSandtheWSoftherectangularhole.

FigfPulleverypieceofthepocketfabricthroughtherectangularhole.

7Stitchtheziptothebagfabric–applyastripofdouble-sidedtapetobothlongedgesoftheRSofthezip(sothattheedgesofthetapeandthezipmatch)andpeeloffthebackings.TakeyourbagfabricRSUandplacetherectangularholeontothezip.Manipulatetheedgesoftherectangleuntilitislyingevenlyonthezipandthezipispositionedperfectlycentralwithintherectangle.Pressdowntobond.Attachthezipperfoottoyoursewingmachineandstitchallaroundthezip2mm(1⁄16in)fromtheedgeoftherectangle.SeeFigg.

Figg1–g2Thezipistapedintoastraightandevenpositioninsidetherectanglereadytobesewntothebagfabric;stitchallalongtheedgeoftherectangletosecuretheziptothebagfabric.

8Assembletherestofthepocket–turnyourbagfabricoversothattheWSofthepocketandthezipisfacingup.PlacetheremainingpocketfabricWSUontothepocketpiece(withzipattached).Foldthetopedge

ofthebagfabricdownoutofthewaysoyoucanbeginpinningandstitchingalongthetopedgeofthepocket.Pinandstitchallaroundthepocket.Asyousew,ensurethebagfabriciskeptoutofthewaytoavoidstitchingthroughit.SeeFigh.Thepocketisnowcomplete.

FighThepocketpiecesarepinnedtogether.Thebagfabricisfoldedoutofthewaytoavoidsewingthroughitwhilethepocketisstitchedtogether.

ZipPartitionPocketThisinnerpocketdoesdoubledutyasabagliningpartitionandasasecuretopedgepocket.Thistypeofpocketisonlysuitableforflatbags(orbagsthatareflatatthesidesandhaveaflatbottom)soisnogoodforbagsthathavesidepanelsorgussets.Thisstyleofpocketisusuallyplacedupandawayfromthebottomofyourbag.

Youwillneed

•Nylonallpurposezip,atleast10cm(4in)shorterthanthefinishedwidthofyourbag

•2piecesoffabricforthepocket.TogaugethewidthandheightofyourpocketfabricpiecesseeNeedtoknow

•Ruler•Hand-sewingneedle•Zippersewingmachinefoot•6mm(1⁄4in)double-sidedtape•Disappearingmarker

Needtoknow

Togaugethewidthofyourpocketfabricdecidehowwideyouwantyourfinishedbagtobethenadd10cm(4in).Ifyouwantyourfinishedbagtobe28cm(11in)wideyourpocketfabricwillneedtobe38cm(15in)wide.

Togaugetheheightofyourpocketfabricdecideonthefinishedheightofyourpocket,multiplythemeasurementbytwo,andadd2cm(3⁄4in).Ifyouwantthefinalheightofyourpockettobe15cm(6in)high,yourpocketfabricneedstobe32cm(121⁄2in)high.Allseamallowancesare1cm(3⁄8in)unlessstatedotherwise.MakeupyourpocketsandstitchthemtoyourbagfabricBEFOREconstructingyourbags.

1Trimtheziptothedesiredlengthandstitchthezippullendstogether–followingsteps1–2ofFlushZipPocket.

2Stitchtheliningandtheexteriorpocketpieces–withRSfacingoutfoldoneofthepocketpiecesinhalfbybringingtheshortedgestogether.Ironthefoldededge.Repeatwiththeotherpocketpiece.Openbothfabrics,bringRST,andpinatthecentrecrease.MeasureandmarktheholeforthezipteethalongthecentreWSofthecrease.SeeFiga.Stitchalongthecreaselinefromtheedgestoppingatthezipteethmarkings.Repeatfromtheotheredge.Sewstrongsecuringendstitches.

FigaPinthetwopocketpiecesRSTandmaketwomarksalongthecentreofthecreasefortheziphole.

3TurnpocketfabricRSO–flipthelefttoplayerofthepocketovertotherightandflipthebottomlayertotheright.YoushouldbeleftwiththeRSofbothpocketfabricpiecesfacingout.Ironthefoldededgesofthezipholetomakenicesharpcreases.

4Stitchtheziptothebagfabric–followingstep7ofFlushZipPocket.

5Stitchtheshortedgesofthepocket–openthezip.Flipthelayersoverasinstep3sothattheWSarefacingout.Pinandstitchbothshortedgesofthepocket.Irontheseamsopen.

6TurnthepocketRSO–holdthepocketupbyoneoftheshortedgessothatyoucanseethezipRSUthoughtheopensides.Withyourfree

handreachinthroughtheopenside,gripthezipedgethenpullthefabricdownovertheopenzip.SeeFigb.Rearrangethefabricpocket,smoothoutbumpsandiron.Thepocketisnowreadytobeaddedtothelining.

Figb1–b2HoldthepocketattheoneoftheshortedgessothatyoucanseethezipRSUinthroughtheopensides.Reachinsidetheopensidetograbthezip.Thenpullthefabricoveryour

handtoturnthewholepocketRSO.

7Insertthepocketintoyourbaglining–justbeforeyoustitchyourliningfabricpiecestogether,layyourpocket(withzipfacingup)ontotheRSofoneofthebagliningpieces.Decidehowfardownyouwantthepockettositinyourbag.Iliketoplacemypartitionpocketsatleast7cm(23⁄4in)downfromtherawtopedgeofthelining(thisleavesenoughroomforanytopedgefastenersandforsewingtheliningtotheexterioratalaterstage).Positionthepocketcentrallywidthwaysontheliningfabricandpinsecurelytothelining.You’llseethatthepocketiswiderthantheliningfabricpiece–justincase!BringthetwoliningpiecesRSTthussandwichingthepocketinbetweenthelining.Pinandstitchthelining.Trimofftheexcesspocketfabricfromthesideseamsofthelining.See

Figc.Youarereadytocontinuewiththeconstructionoftherestofyourbag(seeConstruction).

Figc1–c2Useplentyofpinstosecurethepocketinpositiontothebagliningfabricpiece;trimtheexcesspocketfabricfromthesideofthelining.

Pocketwidth…Thesideseamsofthispocketaresewnintothesideseamsofyourlining.Therefore,thewidthofthispocketisthesameasthewidthofyourbag,plus10cm(4in)(seeNeedToKnow).

InsertingLinings:Drop-InMethodThismethodisparticularlyusefulwhenyourbagshaveafirmandrigidconstructionbecauseitcreatesminimumdisturbances(inotherwordslesscrunchingandscrunching)tothefirmexteriorwhenstitchingtheliningandtheexteriortogether.Thismethodisalsoveryusefulifyourliningisshorterinheightthanyourbagexterior(seetipbelow).Youwillneed

Youwillneed

•Yourconstructedbaglining•Yourconstructedbagexterior•Baghandles(ifusing)•Pinsorminibulldogclips•Cottonorlinenpressingcloth

Needtoknow

Allseamallowancesare1cm(3⁄8in)unlessstatedotherwise.Theseamallowanceforthetopedgeofmybagsisneverlessthanthis.Thismethodisabitquickerthanthepull-throughmethod(seeInsertingLinings:PullThroughandTurnOutMethod),butitrequiresmoreaccuracybecausethereislessroomforerrorinyourliningandexteriorpatterncuttingandseamallowances.

1Constructyourbaglining–insertanyliningpockets(ifusing),stitchallaroundthebottomandsideedgesofyourlining(donotleaveanygapsintheseams).WiththeliningWSOfolddownthetopedgebyyourseamallowance(seeNeedtoknow).SeeFiga.BringthefoldededgetotheWSoftheliningandironthefoldusingapressingcloth.

Shortandsweet…Ifyourbagexteriorismadefromfabricthatisfragileorpronetostretching(likeknittedwoolorcrochet)ashorterliningwilltaketheweightofyourhandbagessentials–thusavoidingthedreaded‘saggybag’.

FigaNeatlyfoldthetopedgeoftheliningdownbyyourseamallowance.

2Makeupyourbagexterior–withtheexteriorRSOfolddownthetopedgebyyourseamallowance.BringthefoldededgetotheWSoftheexteriorandironthefold.SeeFigb.

FigbNeatlyfoldthetopedgeoftheexteriordowntotheRSbyyourchosenseamallowance.

3Addtheliningbagtotheexteriorbagandinsertthebaghandles–placethelininginthebagexterior.TheWSoftheliningandtheexteriorshouldnowbetouchingeachother.Matchupthefoldedtopedgesandsideseams.Usepinsorminibulldogclipstoholdtheliningandtheexteriortogetherandbegintopstitchingallaroundthetopofthebag.SeeFigc.Asyouapproachthesideseams,stopsewingandleavetheneedleinthedownposition.Takeoneofthehandleloopsofyourbaghandles–ifusing(foldedinhalfwithD-ringorbaghandleattached)andinsertit(withtheD-ringpointingupwards)inbetweentheliningandexterior.Tuckthehandleloopdownintothebagasfarasdesired.Holdthehandleloopfirmlyinplacewithyourfingersandresumetopstitching(overtheloop).Repeatwiththeotherhandleloopandtopstitchallroundthetopedge.SeeFigd.

FigcNeatlymatchthetopedgesoftheliningandtheexterior.Clip/pintogetherandstitchallaroundthetop.

FigdHoldthehandleloopinplaceatthesideseamwithyourfreehandasyoustitcharoundthesideseamofthebag.Slowlydoesit.

Frayaway…Ifyouareworkingwithfabricthatfrayseasily,increasethesizeofyourseamallowancewhenstitchingtheliningandexteriortogether.Remembertoaddontheextraseamallowancetoyourpattern.

InsertingLinings:PullThroughandTurnOutMethodThismethodissuitedtosoftstructurebagsanditisparticularlyusefulwhenyourbaghandlesareheavy.Thisisbecausethehandlesareattachedtothebaginthe‘down’positionsotheydon’tneedsupporting(ortobekeptoutofthewayofyourstitching)duringbagconstruction.Youwillneed

•Yourconstructedbaglining•Yourconstructedbagexterior•Baghandles(ifusing)•Pinsorminibulldogclips•Cottonorlinenpressingcloth

Needtoknow

Allseamallowancesare1cm(3⁄8in)unlessstatedotherwise.Theseamallowanceforthetopedgeofmybagsisneverlessthanthis(seealsoFrayAway…).Thismethodtakesalittlelongerthanthedrop-inmethod(seeInsertingLinings:Drop-InMethod),butitismoreforgivingwhenitcomestofittingyourliningandexteriortogetherbeforepinningandstitching.

1Assemblethebaglining–makeupyourbaglining(includingaddinganyliningpocketsifusing).Asyoustitchyourliningtogetherleavealargeenoughgapinthebottomorsideedgeforturningout.

2Assemblethebagexterior–makeupyourbagexterior.TurnyourbagexteriorRSO.

3Stitchthehandlestothebagexterior–withready-madebaghandles(ifusing)attached,stitchbaghandleloopstotheRStopedgeofthebagexterior.Thehandleloopsneedtobepointingdownwards.SeeOpen-EndStrapsandThePiping-HotHobo,step4.Orattachhandmadebagstraps(ifusing)tothebagexteriortopedge.Thebagstrapsneedtobepointingdownwards.SeeOpen-EndStrapsandThePiping-HotHobo,step4.SeeFiga.

FigaStitchyourbagstrapsWSOintotheRStopedgeofthebagexterior.

4Addtheliningtotheexterior–placethebagexteriorRSOintothebagliningWSO.TheRSoftheliningandtheexteriorshouldnowbetouchingeachother.Matchtopedgesandsideseams.SeeFigb.

Mysterymovements…Evenifyouareprecisewithyourpatterncuttingandseamallowances,fabricscanstretchormovearound–it’smysterious,butithappens!Usingthismethodyoucanslightlystretchorsquashtheliningtofitifitisaless-than-perfectmatch.

FigbFullyinserttheexteriorRSOintotheliningWSO.

5Pintheliningbagtotheexteriorbag–usepinsorminibulldogclipstoholdtheliningandtheexteriortogetherandstitchallroundthetopedge.Reachintothegapintheliningandpulltheexteriorbagoutthroughthehole.SeeFigc.

FigcGentlypulltheexteriorbagoutthroughthegapinthelining

6Replacetheliningbackintotheexterior–atthesametimeturntheliningRSOandpushtheliningintotheemergingbagexterior.Stitchthegapintheliningshutbypushingtherawedgeintotheholeandtopstitchingtheopenedge.SeeFigd.Smoothoutanybumpsandironthebagusingapressingcloth.

FigdNeatlypushtherawedgesofthegapintheliningintotheholeandtopstitchitshut.

7Finishingtouches(optional)–topstitchthetopedgeofthebagforextrastrengthandaneatanddecorativefinish.

Makeit…TheOrganizedOfficeBagPerfectforguysorgals,thisbagisabitmorespecialthantheaveragemessengerbag.Insideyou’llfindplentyofstoragespace,organizerpockets,andanoptionalharnesstokeepyourpreciouslaptopsafelystrappedagainstthebackofthebag.Thetwistlockclosuresonthebagnotonlylookreallyprofessional,theyaresafeforusewithyourlaptoptoo.Whetheryouaretakingittowork,collegeorthelocalcoffeeshop,thisbagwilllookthebusinessasmuchasyoudo!

AdjustablestrapEnsureyouhaveultimatecomfortasyoulugaroundyourmobileofficewithafullyadjustablestrap.

SideviewThedeepgussetprovideslotsofstoragespaceforyourlaptop,notepads,documentfoldersandlunch.

InteriorKeepyourstationery,keys,walletandwaterbottleallorganizedintheirownpockets.Theadjustableharnesswillpreventyourlaptopfrommovingaroundinsidethebag.

Needtoknow

Mediumtoheavyweightfabricisbestforthisbagbecauseitneedstobeabletocopewithheavyloadsandprovideprotectionforyourcomputerandgadgets.Inthisbagthewovenfusibleinterfacingisappliedtotheexteriorfabric.Thefusiblefleeceisappliedtotheliningfabric.Allseamallowancesare1cm(3⁄8in)unlessstated.

Patternpiecesaregiveninthepull-outsectionandincludethe1cm(3⁄8in)seamallowance.

Youwillneed

•1pieceofhomedecfabricforexterior,1m(1yd)x137cm(54in)wide•1pieceofhomedecfabricforlining,1m(1yd)x137cm(54in)wide•Sewingthreadstomatchthefabrics•Medium-weightwovenfusibleinterfacing,1m(1yd)•Fusiblefleece,1m(1yd)•Ultra-firmfusibleinterfacingforflapandfrontmainbodyreinforcement,50cm(1⁄2yd)

•2rectangularrings,4cm(11⁄2in)•1metalslider,4cm(11⁄2in)wide•2D-rings,4cm(11⁄2in)(optional)•Allpurposezip,30cm(12in)•1pieceofelastic,18cmx5mm(7x3⁄16in)•Seamripper•Pressingcloth•Seamallowanceguide(optional–seeSeamAllowanceGuide)•Disappearingmarker

PreparationCutthefabricandinterfacingpiecesasfollows:

FromTheOrganizedOfficeBag(mainbody)patternpiece(seeTemplates)

•2xexteriorfabric•2xfusibleinterfacing•2xliningfabric•2xfusiblefleece

•1xultra-firmfusibleinterfacing(fromthebottomhalfofthepattern–seepatternmarkings)

FromTheOrganizedOfficeBag(flap)patternpiece(seeTemplates)

•1xexteriorfabric•1xfusibleinterfacing•1xliningfabric•1xfusiblefleece•1xultra-firmfusibleinterfacing(fromthebottomhalfofthepattern–seepatternmarkings)

TransferallpatternnotchesandmarkingstothefabricwithadisappearingmarkerAlsocut:

•2pieceseachofliningandexteriorfabric,52x12cm(201⁄2x43⁄4in),forthegusset

•2pieceseachofwovenfusibleinterfacingandfusiblefleece,52x12cm(201⁄2x43⁄4in),forthegusset

•2piecesofliningfabric,32x15cm(121⁄2x6in),fortheliningflushzippocket

•1pieceofliningfabric,18x12cm(7x43⁄4in),fortheliningpenholder•2piecesofliningfabric,18cm(7in)square,fortheelasticized-toppocket•1stripofexteriorfabric,130x14cm(51x51⁄4in),forthehandleloopsandadjustablestrap

•2piecesofliningfabric,26x18cm(101⁄4x7in),forthelaptopharness(optional)

•1stripofliningfabric,30x14cm(12x51⁄2in),forthelaptopharnessstrapandloop(optional)

Theinterfacing,gusset,strapandlaptopharness

1Interfacetheexteriorflapandexteriormainbodyfront–taketheultra-firmfusibleinterfacingpatternpiecesandtrimoff1.5cm(1⁄2in)fromtheside,bottom,andcurvedcorneredges.Takethemainbodyultra-firminterfacingpieceandplaceitontotheWSofthemainbodyfrontfabricpiece.Ensurethereisa1.5cm(1⁄2in)fabricmarginallaroundthebottomandsideedgesofinterfacing.Ironinplace.Repeatwiththeflapultra-firminterfacingandflapfabricpiece.

2Interfacethefabricpieces–matchthewovenfusibleinterfacingpatternpiecestotheirpartnerexteriorfabricpatternpiecesandironthemtotheWSofthefabricpieces.IronthefusiblefleecepatternpiecesontotheWSofalloftheliningfabricpieces.

3Stitchthegussetfabricpieces–taketheexteriorgussetpiecesRST,pinandstitchoneoftheshortedges.Irontheseamopen.Repeatwiththegussetliningpieces.OpenouttheexteriorgussetRSOtomakeonelongstripandmakenotchmarkingonbothlongedgestomatchthenotchmarkingsonthebottomedgeofthemainpatternpiece.Repeatwiththelininggusset.SeeFiga.

FigaThesenotchmarkingswillhelplatertoensurethatyousewastraight(anduntwisted)gussettothebag.

4Makethehandleloops–takethehandleloop/adjustablestrapfabricandcutoffa16cm(61⁄4in)pieceandfollowthestepsinOpen-EndStrapstomakeoneopen-endstrap.Dividetheresultingstrapintotwoequallengthsandthreadarectangularringontoeachofthehandleloops.

5Maketheadjustablestrap–taketheremainderofthehandleloop/adjustablestrapfabricandfollowthestepsinClosed-EndStrapstomakeoneclosed-endstrapandsetaside.

6Makethe(optional)laptopharnessloopandstrap–takethelaptopharnessstrapandloopfabricandcutoffa20cm(8in)piece,thenfollowthestepsinClosed-EndStrapstomakeoneclosed-endstrap.TaketheremainderofthelaptopharnessstrapandloopfabricandfollowthestepsinOpen-EndStrapstomakeoneopen-endstrap.ThreadthetwoD-ringsontotheharnessloop.

7Makethe(optional)laptopharness–roundoffthetopedgecornersoftheharnessfabricpiecesifdesired.PlaceoneoftheshortedgesoftheharnessstrapontothecentretopedgeRSofoneoftheharnesspieces.Matchtheedges,pinandstitchinplacewitha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.BringtheharnessfabricpiecesRST,matchalledges,pinandstitchalongthetopandsideedges.Irontheseamsopen,clipthecornersorcurvesasappropriate.TurnRSOandironusingapressingcloth.SeeFigb.

FigbOnelaptopharnessandharnessloopreadyforstitchingintothelining.

Thebagexterior

8Insertthetwistlockbuttons–followstep2inTwistLocktoinsertthetwistlockbuttonstothebagexteriorfrontatthetwistlockmarkings.

9Stitchtheexteriorgussettotheexteriormainbody–bringthebagexteriormainbodyfrontandtheexteriorgussetpiecesRST.Ensurethejoinonthegussetispositionedinthecentrebottomedgeofthebagexterior.Matchthenotchmarkingsontheexteriorgussetwiththenotchesonthemainbodyandpinandstitchtogether(onthegussetside)alongthebottomandsideedges(seeGussets).Clipthecurvedseamsandirontheseamsopen.Repeatwiththeexteriorbackfabricandgusset,onlythistimepinandstitchonthemainbodyside.Trimofftheexcessgussetfabricatbothgussettopedges.SeeFigc.TurnthebagRSOandironusingapressingcloth.

FigcCutoftheexcessfabricoffboththeshortedgesofthegusset.Ialwaysmakemygussetstoolong,justincase.

10Pinandstitchthehandleloopstotheexteriorgusset–takeoneofthehandleloops(foldedinhalfwithrectangularringstillattached)andplaceitontothecentretopedgeoftheexteriorgussetpiece.Matchuptherawedgesofthehandleloopandthegusset.HoldthehandleloopinplacewithyourfingersandstitchtotheRSbagexteriorwitha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.SeeFigd.Repeatwiththeotherhandleloop.

FigdStitchthehandlelooptotheexteriorgussetsotherectangularringispointingawayfromtheedgeofthefabric.

Thebaglining

11Makeuptheliningpenholder–takethepenholderfabricpieceandstitchazigzagalongonelongedgeandbothshortedges.WiththepenholderfabricpieceRSUfoldunderthezigzagedges1cm(3⁄8in)totheWSandironthefolds.Topstitchalongthelongfolded(zigzag)edge3mm(1⁄8in)awayfromtheedge.Measureandmarkthreeequidistantverticallinesonthepenholderfabricforthepenholderdividerlines.SeeFige.

FigeMeasureandmarkthepocketdividerlinesontheliningpocket–besuretouseadisappearingmarker!

12Makeuptheelasticized-topliningpocket–taketheelasticized-toppocketfabricpiecesandelasticandfollowsteps1–4ofElasticized-TopPockettomakeanelasticized-toppocket,butdonotstitchthepockettotheliningyet.

13Stitchthepenholderandelasticized-toppockettotheliningmainbodyfront–takeoneoftheliningmainbodypiecesRSUandpositionthepenholderRSU4cm(11⁄2in)infromthesideedge(totheleftorrightsideofthemainbodyfabric,asdesired).Matchthebottomedgesoftheliningmainbodyandthepenholderandpin.Stitchthepenholdertotheliningalongthesideedgesanddividerlinesofthepenholder.Repeatwiththeelasticized-toppocketandtheoppositesideofthemainbodyliningfabric.SeeFigf.

FigfStitchthepenholderandelasticized-toppocketsidebysideonthebottomedgeofthemainbodylining.

14Makeupandinserttheflushzippocket–takethetwoflushzippocketfabricpiecesandthezipandinsertaflushzippocketintothecentreoftheliningmainbodypiece(withthepenholderandelasticized-toppocket)4cm(11⁄2in)downfromthetopedge.SeeFlushZipPocket,steps2–8.

15Stitchthelaptopharnessandlooptotheliningmainbodyback–ifnotmakingthelaptopharnessproceedtostep17.TaketheotherliningmainbodypieceRSU(withnopockets)andpositionthebottomedgeoftheharnessRSOontothecentrebottomedgeofthemainbodyliningfabricpiece.Pinandstitchinplaceonthebottomedgewitha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.TakethefoldedharnessloopwithD-ringsattachedandplaceitontotheRScentretopedgeofthebagmainbodyliningfabricpiece.Matchuptherawedgesoftheharnessloopandthe

bagliningfabric,pinandstitchinplacewitha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.

16Stitchthelininggussettotheliningmainbody–stitchinthesameaswayasforstep9,exceptleavea15cm(6in)gapinthemiddleofoneofthesideedgesforturningout.

Thebagflap

17Stitchtheflap–bringexteriorflapandliningflappiecesRST.Matchupalledges,pinandstitchallaroundthesidesandbottom.Clipthecurves,irontheseamsopen,turntheflapRSOandironusingapressingcloth.Attachtheseamallowanceguide(ifusing)toyoursewingmachineandtopstitchtheflapallaroundthesideandcurvybottomedgeswitha1cm(3⁄8in)seamallowance.

18Applythetwistlockfrontplates–followTwistLock,steps4–6toinsertthetwistlockplatestotheRSofthebagflapatthetwistlockmarkings.

Assemblingthebag

19Stitchtheflaptothebagexterior–pintheflapWSUtotheRSofthebagexterior.Placetheflapontothecentretopedgeofthebagexteriorback.Matchuptherawedgesandstitchtheflaptotheexteriorbagbackwitha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.SeeFigg.

FiggPintheflaptothebagexteriorandstitchitinplacewitha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.

20Stitchthebagliningtothebagexterior–inserttheexteriorbagRSOintotheliningbagWSO.Therightsidesoftheexteriorbagandtheliningbagshouldnowbetouchingeachother.Pinallaroundthetopedgeandstitchallaroundthetopedge.SeeInsertingLinings:PullThroughandTurnOutMethod,steps4and5.

21TurnthebagRSO–reachintothegapintheliningandpulltheexteriorbagoutthroughthehole.Pushtheexteriorbagintothelining.Stitchthegapintheliningshutbypushingtherawedgesofthegapintheliningintotheholeandtopstitchingshut.Smoothoutanybumpsandironthebagusingapressingcloth(payingextraattentiontoneateningthetopedge).SeeInsertingLinings:PullThroughandTurnOutMethod,steps5and6.

22Topstitchthetopofthebag–withthebagflapopentopstitchallaroundthebagtopedgewitha1cm(3⁄8in)seamallowance.

23Attachtheadjustablestraptothebag–followsteps2–3ofAdjustableStrapstoattachtheadjustablestrap.

AboveThedaysofcarryingaseperatehandbag,bookbagandlaptopbagareover–thisofficebagdoesitallinoneorganizedpackage!Makeitinamodernfabricsuchasthisgraphicprintfor

areallystylishlook.

5:ClosuresClosuresareanessentialcomponenttoallbutthesimplesttotebags.Withoutasecurefasteningonyourbagyou’dhavethecontentsspillingouteverywherewhilerunningforthebusandyou’dalsobemakinglifeeasyfor‘naughtyfingers’.Butjustbecausebagclosuresarefunctionaldoesn’tmeantheyhavetolookboring.Experimentwithpositioningandchoosingyourfasteningtypeandyou’llendupwithbagclosuresthatlooklikeeye-catchingdesignfeatures.Ashinymetalclasphereandaslantedzipperthere…zhushupyourbagswithclosuresthatarejustasfunastheyarefunctional.

Theprofessionals…It’sworthgettingtogripswiththedifferenttypesofsnapsandzips–aneatlyinsertedclosurewillgiveyourbagsasuper-professionalfinish.

ClosureType Benefits SuggestedUses

TopEdgeZip

Oneoftheeasierzipstomaster,perfectforsimpletotebags.

Cosmeticspurses,totebagsandcoinpurses.

ConcealedTopEdgeZip

Givesthetopofthebagaboxierlook.Asthezipishidden,thetopofthebaglooksveryneat.

Totebags,document/laptopbagsandshoulderbags.

BoxTopZip

Addsspaceandaflatsurfacetothetopedgeofthebag.Greatforboxierbags.

Overnightbags,sports-stylerounddufflebags,over-the-bodysatchelsandhold-alls.

MagneticSnap

Quickandeasytoapply,versatile,neatandinexpensive.

Manytypesofbags,pocketflaps,walletandjournaltabclosures.

Snap inexpensive. journaltabclosures.

InvisibleMagneticSnap

Snaphasaflatprofileandisconcealedsogivesaneatandflushappearancetothebagflap.

Manytypesofbags,pocketflaps,walletandjournaltabclosures.

TwistLockHighlydecorativeandprovidesfastaccesstoyourbag.

Messengerbagflaps,pocketflaps,bagtabclosures,journaltabclosures.

EyeletsandRivets

Quicktoapply.Greatforusingonlotsoflayers.

Attachingmanytypesofhandlesandstraps,andaddingdecorativefeatures.

Zips

Theymaysendshiversintomanyanewbagmaker,butzipsaresoeffectiveandusefulthattheyarehardtoavoidandbesides,theyareactuallyquiteeasytouse.Therearethreebasictypesofzip:

Therearethreebasictypesofzip:

•conventional(alsoknownasnon-separating)•separating•invisible

Mostbagmakerstendtosticktotheconventionalvariety–theothertwotypesaremorefordressmaking.Havefunchoosingaziptouseonyourbagandplaywithyourcolourchoice.Thezipcolourdoesn’talwaysneedtomatchthebagfabric.Howaboutazingycontrastingcolouredzip?

TopEdgeZipTheseareveryusefulandquickandeasytoapply.Ifyouhaven’tusedazipinbagmakingbefore,attemptthistypeofzipfirst–you’llbedelightedwiththeresultsandbereally

proudofyourself.SeeTopEdgeZip.

ConcealedTopEdgeZipThistypeofzipisonefortheshow-offs.It’snothardtodo,itjusttakesabitlongertoapply.You’llberewardedwithaprofessionallookingclosurethatishiddenfromviewfromtheoutsideofyourbag(somebagdesignsjustcallforthis);you’llgetmorespaceatthetopofyourbag;andaprettyflashofcolourattheentranceofyourbag.SeeConcealedTop

EdgeZip.

Putonweight…Experimentwiththeweightchoiceofyourzips,matchingandcontrastingthemwithyourfabricweight–chunkycanlookfunky!

BoxTopZipThisisperfectforwhenyouwantthetopofyourbagtozipshutleavingthemaximumamountofvolumeatthetop.Thetopofyourbagwillhaveaflatprofileandyoucanmakethedepthasdeepasyouwant(without

overdoingitproportion-wise,ofcourse).SeeBoxTopZip.

Needtoknow

Zipsareavailableinarainbowofcoloursandinmanydifferentlengths,weightsandmaterials,suchasbrass,nickelandnylon.Theheavierthezipthemorewearandtearitcanstand.Conventionalzipsareclosedatoneendsothatthezippullcan’tbepulledoffthezip.

Snapsandlocks

Usedsinglyorinpairs,snapsandlocksareafantasticallyversatilewaytofastenyourbags.Notonlyaretheypractical,butlikeanygoodaccessory,theycandressabagupordown.Forexample,magneticfasteningslookgreatonanurban

dressabagupordown.Forexample,magneticfasteningslookgreatonanurbanmessengerbag,andarequicktoopenandclose.Atwistlockaddsatouchofold-schoolglamourtoaposhhandbag,andtheyhaveasatisfyingly‘grown-up’feelwhenyou’reusingthem.

MagneticsnapsAsetofmagneticsnapscomprisestwometalwashersandamale(non-magnetic)part,whichisattractedtoafemale(magnetic)part.Theyareaseasytoapplyas

makingacuppa;infacttheyweremyfirstforayintotheworldofshinymetalbagbits.Theyaresimple,cleanlooking,versatileandinexpensive.Magneticsnapsareavailableinvarioussizes,coloursandshapes,butroundandrectangulararethemostwidelyavailable.SeeMagnetic

Snaps.

Oppositesattract…Beforestitchingthesnaphalfinpositionjustquicklycheckthatitwillattracttheotherhalfandwillnotrepelitinstead.

InvisiblesnapsAsetofinvisiblemagneticsnapscomprisestwoparts,bothofwhicharelow-profilemetaldiscs(whichareattractedtoeachother)enclosedinaclearPVCpad.Theymaynotlookveryexciting,butinvisiblesnapsaresousefulwhenyouwantamagneticclosurethatisflatinprofileandishiddenfromview.Sometimesyoudon’twanttoseeyourmagneticsnapbecauseyouwantyourpurseorbagtoworktheminimalistlook,orwantyourclosuretobeniceandflat(likeyouperhapswouldonadaintysizedclutchorajournalcover).SeeInvisibleMagnetic

Snaps.

Pullingpower…Magneticsnapsareavailableindifferentheights–standardandlowprofile(foraslimmer,lowerfatlook).Thelargerthemagnetsnapthestrongerthepullingpower.

TwistlocksAscrew-intypetwistlockcomprisesafrontplate,atwistbuttonandawasher.Twistlocksareavailableinawiderangeofmetalcolours,shapesandsizes.Poponeofthese

fasteningsonyourbagforasuperprofessionallook.IntermsoffunequalsfunctionIdon’tthinkyoucanbeatatwistlock,theyareaninstantwayforyourhandmadebagstomoveintotherealmsofhandcraftedarmcandy.Iftwistlocksmakecrazy-pricedesignerhandbagslook

expensive,they’llworkatreatonyourhandmadebags.SeeTwistLock.

EyeletsandrivetsSomehardwarecomeswithitsowninstructions.You’llfindallthepartsrequired,plusthetoolstoapplythem,inthepack.

EyeletsThesearesoversatileinbagmaking.Notonlyaretheyquicktoapply,theycanhandleumpteenfabriclayersandyoucanhookorthreadallmannerofthingsthroughtheeyeletssuchaschain,bagstraps,metalwareorpipedbaghandles.

Inbagmaking,eyeletsareasusefulastheyaredecorative.Useeyeletstoattachyourbagstraps,ringsandsnapsontoorusethemfordrawstringclosuresorevencorset-styledecorativelacing.Picktheperfectsizedeyeletforthewidthofyourbagstrap,snaphookorlaceetc.ortryoversizedeyeletsforacool,decorativedesignfeature.Anyeyeletkitwillcomewithdetailedinstructionsonhowtoapplytheeyelets.Readtheinstructionscarefullythendiveinandhavefunaddingeyeletswhereveryouwantthem.

RivetsThesearesuperusefulinbagmaking,Iloveusingthem.Rivetsareusedtostronglyjoinfabricstogetherand/orasadecorativetrim.

Usethemwhenevertherearetoomanylayersforyoursewingmachine,orwhensewingistooawkward,orevenwhenyouaresimplyinahurry!Thereareoftentimeswhenyourbagstrapistoothicktobesewntoyour(already)layer-tasticbagandthisiswhererivetscansavetheday.Notonlyaretheyeffective,theylooksoprofessional!You’llneedtoinvestinaholepunchandarivetkit(whereyou’llfindinstructionsonhowtoapply).TheyaresimpletogetthehangofandI’msurethatonceyoudoyou’llberivetingallovertheplace!

Livingtogether…Ifinstructionscomewiththehardware,makesureyoulocatethemandkeepitalltogethersothatthey’rehandyfornexttime.

TopEdgeZipThistutorialshowsyouhowtoinsertatopedgezipintoapencilcase,butthemethodwouldbethesameforatotebag,forexample.Zipsmaylookscary,buttheyarequitesimpletoapply.Startoffwiththistopedgeziptechniqueandyou’llwonderwhyyoustayedawayfromthemforsolong.

Youwillneed

•Nylonall-purposezip,20cm(8in)•2piecesofhomedecexteriorfabric,24x10cm(91⁄2x4in)fortheexteriormainbody

•2piecesofhomedecexteriorfabric,4x3.5cm(11⁄2x13⁄8in)fortheziptab•2piecesofliningfabric24x10cm(91⁄2x4in)fortheliningmainbody•Zippersewingmachinefoot•Pins•Pointytool(suchasaknittingneedle)

Needtoknow

Allseamallowancesare1cm(3⁄8in)unlessstatedotherwise.

1Trimthezipwiththeziptabs–takeoneoftheziptabfabricpiecesRSUandfoldunderoneoftheshortedges1cm(3⁄8in).PlacethefoldededgeoftheziptabontotheRSofoneoftheendsofthezipandstitchalongthefoldededge.SeeFiga.Therawziptabedgeshouldmeetthezipendedge.Repeatwiththeotherziptabandtheotherendofthezip.

FigaFabrictabsonthezipwillmaketheziplieflatatthetopcornersofthecaseandalsohelptomakeitlookpretty.

2Attachonesideofthezipontoonesideofthepencilcase–makeazippersandwichasfollows.Startingfromthebottom:liningfabricpieceRSOonthebottom,zipRSOinthemiddle,andexteriorpieceWSOonthetop.Carefullyandneatlymatchupalloftheedgesandpinthelayersatthelongtopedge.SeeFigb.Attachthezipperfoottoyoursewingmachineandstitchthroughthethreelayers,alongthepencilcasetopedge.Stitchwitha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.

FigbMakeupathree-layeredzippysandwichasshown.

3TopstitchthezipontheRSofthepencilcase–flipthelayersoversothattheexteriorandthezipisRSO.Topstitchneatlyalongthefoldededgeoftheexteriorfabric.Repeatsteps2and3withtheothersideofthezipandtheexteriorandliningfabricpieces.SeeFigc.

Figc1–c2Topstitchalongthefoldededge–thisshouldbetheresult:onezipinsertedneatlyintoyourliningandexteriorfabrics.

4Pinandstitchthepencilcasetogether–nb:ensurethezipisunzipped.FlipthefabriclayersoversothattheRSoftheliningpiecesaretouchingeachotherandtheRSoftheexteriorpiecesaretouchingeachother.Matchuptheedgesallaroundandpin–thezipwillnaturallycurvetowardsthelining.SeeFigd1.Stitchallaroundthepencilcase,butleaveagapof8cm(31⁄8in)inthebottomedgeofthelining.SeeFigd2.Clipoffallcorners.

Figd1Pinthecaseasshown,thezipwillnaturallycurveuptowardsthelining.

Figd2Followingthedrawnline,stitchalongthesidesandbottomofthecaseleavingagapinthelining.

Carefulclipping…Whenclippingoffallthecorners,takeextracarenottocutthroughyourstitches.

5Turnthepencilcaserightsideout–reachintothegapintheliningandthroughtheopenziptoturnthepencilcaseRSO.SeeFige.Sothat’swhythezipneededtobeopen!Pushallthecornersoutusingapointytoolsuchasafatknittingneedle.

6Stitchthegapintheliningshut–foldtherawedgesofthegap1cm(3⁄8in)intothehole,pressandtopstitchtheholeshut.Smoothoutanybumpsandironthecase.

FigePulltheexteriorcaseoutthroughtheholeinthecaselining.

ConcealedTopEdgeZipThisbagtopzipclosurelooksveryneatandprofessionalbecausethezipishiddenfromview.

Youwillneed

•Nylonall-purposezip.Chooseazipthatis4cm(11⁄2in)longerthanthetopedgeofyourbagliningpatternpieces.Ifyourliningpatternpieceis28cm(11in)wideatthetopedge,yourzipshouldbe32cm(121⁄2in)long

•2piecesoffabrictomatchyourzip,yourliningoryourexterior,8x5cm(31⁄8x2in)fortheziptab

•2piecesoffabricforthezipcasing,2.5cm(1in)shorterthanyourzip(measuredfromzipfabricendtofabricend).Thecasingcanbeaswideasdesired,butafinishedwidthof4cm(11⁄2in)looksgoodformediumtolargebags.Forafinishedcasingwidthof4cm(11⁄2in)thecasingfabricpiecesshouldbe13cm(51⁄8in)wide

•Zippersewingmachinefoot

Needtoknow

Allseamallowancesare1cm(3⁄8in)unlessstatedotherwise.Thisstyleofzipisappliedtothebaglining.InsertthistypeofzipclosureBEFOREyouassemblethebaglining.IfyouwanttoaddanyinternalbagpocketstotheliningyoushouldaddthemBEFOREyouinserttheconcealedtopedgezip.

1Trimthezipwiththeziptab–bringtheziptabfabricpiecesRST,pinandstitchtogetherallaroundthesidesandbottom,leavinga4cm(11⁄2in)gapforturningtheziptabRSO.TurntheziptabRSOthoughthegapandiron.Taketheclosedzipendandfoldtheziptabinhalfoverthezippullend(soastoencasethezipend).Matchalledgesoftheziptab,pinandtopstitchallaroundtheziptabtothezippullend.SeeFiga.

FigaTheziptablooksprofessionalanditgivesyousomethingtograbholdofwhenopeningandclosingthezip.

2Makeupacasingforbothsidesofthezip–takeoneofthezipcasingfabricpiecesWSOandfoldinbothshortedges1cm(3⁄8in).Thenfoldinhalflengthways,ironalongthecreaseandopenout.Finallyfoldinthelongedgesintothecentrecreaseyouhavejustmade.SeeFigb.Repeatwiththeotherzipcasingpiece.

FigbFoldinbothshortedges1cm(3⁄8in);foldthecasinginhalflengthwaysandopenout;foldthelongedgesintothecentrecreaseandfoldinhalfsothecasingresemblesabookjacket

cover.

3Pinthezipintothezipcasing–firstunzipthezip.WiththezipRSUtaketherawendofthezip(whichhasnoziptabattached)andfoldandpinthezipfabricendtothecasing(whichisopenedout).SeeFigc.Pinthezip3mm(1⁄8in)fromthefoldededgeofthezipcasing.Repeatwiththeotherzipcasingandziphalf.

FigcTherawendofthezipisfoldeddownsothezipstopsjustshortoftheshortedgeofthecasing.Foldingthefabricendofthezipdownlikethiswillneatlyconcealtherawedgeofthezip

insidethefinishedcasing.

4Stitchtheziphalfintothecasing–attachthezipperfoottoyoursewingmachineandturnthecasingRSO(stillopenedoutandwiththezippinnedon).Topstitchthezipintopositioninthecasingalongthelongedge.Turnoverthecasingandfolditclosed.Topstitchallaroundtheopenedgesofthecasingtotrapthezipinside.SeeFigd.

Figd1–d3Topstitchingthezipintoposition;topstitchingaroundthecasing;theresult.

Perfectsymmetry…Takecaretopositionthesecondzipcasinghalfassymmetricallyasyoucanorthezipwon’tlookgood,orworkwell.

5Attachtheziptoyourbaglining–unzipthezipand,workingwithonehalfofthezipatatime,measureandmarkthecentreofyourzipandalsothecentretopedgeofyourbagliningpiece.Decidehowfardownyouwouldlikeyourconcealedziptositinsideyourbag–agoodguideis3cm(11⁄8in)downfromthefinishedtopedge.So,afteraddingonatopedgeseamallowanceof5mm(3⁄16in),positiontheconcealedzip3.5cm(13⁄8in)downfromthetopedgeofthebagliningfabric.PinandtopstitchthezipcasingRSOtotheRSoftheliningalongthetopedge.SeeFige.

Repeatwiththeothercasinghalfandbagliningpiece.Andthereyouhaveoneconcealedtopedgezipinsertedintoyouliningpieces.Youcannowcompletetheconstructionofyourliningandtherestofyourbag(seeConstruction).

Fige1–e2Thezipcasingispinnedintopositiontoyourbaglining.

BoxTopZipThiszipclosureisonefortheshow-offs!Itlooksreallyprofessional,addsanothersplashofcolouranditaddsloadsofroomtothetopandsidesofyourbag.

Youwillneed

•Nylonall-purposezip•2rectanglesofexteriorfabricfortheziptop/sidepanels•2rectanglesofliningfabricfortheziptop/sidepanels•2rectanglesofexteriorfabricforthezipbottompanels•2rectanglesofexteriorfabricfortheziptabs•Zippersewingmachinefoot

Needtoknow

Thiszipisinsertedintothetopandsidepanelsofyourbag.Therefore,thiszipisonlysuitableforboxyshapedbags.Chooseazipthatisthesamelengthasthedesiredzipopeninglength,suchas80cm(311⁄2in).Thebagyouaremakingwilldictatethedimensionsofthefabricsneededtomakethisstyleofzip.ForthisreasonyouwillfindthefullinstructionsaspartofTheGreatGetawayBag.Haveagoatinsertingaboxtopzipintothatprojectfirstandyou’llthenbeabletoinsertoneintoyourowndesignbags.Whenusingaboxtopzip,addanyinternalpocketsBEFOREyouassemblethelining.

Generaladvice

Generaladvice

•Aboxtopzipisformedofnineparts:azipper,twolongexteriorfabricpanelsforthetopandsideedges,twolongliningfabricpanelsforthetopandsideedges,twoexteriorbottompanels,andtwoliningbottompanels.

•Whentheabovepartsareallstitchedtogetherthelengthoftheboxtopzipshouldequalthecombinedlengthofbothsidesandthetopedgeofthebag.

•Thetwolongexteriorfabrictop/sidepanelsaremachinestitchedeithersideofthelongedgesofthezipandthenbottompanelsarestitchedtotheshortendsofthezip(withtop/sidepanelsattached).Theexteriorzipisthenreadytobeattachedtoyourbagexterior.SeeFiga.

FigaThezipbottompanelandtheziptoppanelarestitchedRST,thenthezipbottompanelisfoldeddownandtopstitchedalongthetopfold.

•Fortheboxtopziplining,thebagliningisfullyconstructedwithallzippanelsstitchedtogether,minusthezip,whichleavesalong,thin

rectangularholealongthetopandsidesofthebagliningtowhichthezipwillbestitched.SeeFigb.

FigbThebagliningismadeupinthesamewayasforthebagexteriorexcepttherearenoziporzippartstoinsert.Youwillbeleftwithaliningbagthathasalong,thinrectangularholealongthe

top.

•Thebagliningisthenstitchedtothebagexterioralongthebagbottomedgeseamsandfinallytheedgesofthelongthinholeintheliningarehandstitchedtothefabricofthezip.

SnapsAmagneticsnapclosureissospeedyandeasytoapply.However,ifyouthinkthatavisibleclosurewouldspoilthelookofyourbag,tryusinganinvisiblemagneticsnapinstead.

YouwillneedMagneticsnap

•Magneticsnap•2squaresoffusibleinterfacingformagneticsnapreinforcement,2.5cm(1in)

•Seamripper

Invisiblemagneticsnap

•Invisiblemagneticsnap•Zippersewingmachinefoot

Needtoknow

Evenifyourfabricisheavy,it’sessentialtoreinforcethemagneticsnapareaofthefabric.Thisisbecausethefabricwillbeputunderrepeatedstrainbythepullingofthemagnet.InvisiblemagneticsnapsareusuallysewntotheinterliningorontotheWSofthebaglining.Ifyourbagismadefromafewfabricandinterfacinglayers,oryourfabricsareontheheavyside,cutasmall,roundmagnet-sizedholethoughyourinterlininglayers(ifusing).Thisexposesthemagnetsoitdoesn’tlooseitsstrengththroughallofthelayers.

InsertsnapsBEFOREassemblingyourbaglining,bagexteriororbagflap.

Magneticsnap

1Reinforcethemagneticsnapfabricarea–ironaninterfacingsquaretotheWSofthefabricwhereyouhavechosentoinsertyourmagneticsnap.Repeatwiththeotherinterfacingsquareandtheotherfabricpiece.Ifyouareapplyingyoursnaptotheexterior(forexample,forbagorpocketflaps)ofyourbagandyouareusinginterlining,atthispointyouneedtolayyourexteriorRSOontoyourinterliningpieceandtreatthembothasonelayer.

2Makeincisionsforthesnapandapply–usingaseamripper,maketwotinyincisionsthroughallofthefabriclayersforthemagneticsnapprongs.TakeonehalfofthemagneticsnapandpushtheprongsthroughtheincisionsthroughRSofthebagfabric.Placeametalwasherovertheprongsatthebackofthebagfabricandpushtheprongsdownfirmlyawayfromeachother.SeeFiga.Repeatwiththeothermagneticsnaphalf.

FigaViewofmagneticsnaphalffromtheWSofthebag.Pushtheprongsdownfirmly.

Invisiblemagneticsnap

1Preparethemagneticsnaparea–ifusinginterlining(asdescribedintheboxabove)cutasmallholethoughyourinterliningtoexposethemagnet.SeeFigb.Ifyouarenotusinginterliningproceedtostep2.

FigbExposingthemagnetbycuttingthroughthelayerswillhelpthemagnetretainitspullingpower.

2Stitchtheinvisiblesnaptoyourbagfabric–attachthezipperfoottoyoursewingmachineandstitchonehalfoftheinvisiblesnaptothemagneticsnapmarkingonthefabric.Sewinaboxformationaroundthemagnet.Repeatwiththeothersnaphalf.

TwistLockThere’snothinglikeabitofshinymetalonabagtomakeyouthink‘ohhpretty’!Twistlocksnotonlylooklovelybuttheyarealsouseful.Popatwistlockonyourbagtoinstantlyelevateitfrom‘homemade’to‘handcrafted’.Itworkseverytime…

workseverytime…

Youwillneed

•Twistlock(sometimesknownasaturnlock)•2squaresoffusibleinterfacingforreinforcement,2.5cm(1in).•Seamripper•Smallsharpscissors•Smallscrewdriver•Disappearingmarker

Needtoknow

Evenifyourfabricisheavy,it’sessentialtoreinforcethetwistlockareaofthefabric,asitwillbeputunderrepeatedstrainbytheweightandthepullingofthetwistlock.Twistlocksworkbestonbagsmadefromheavierfabricsorseverallayers.Thisisbecausethesemetallockscanbeheavyandyourbagneedstobeabletosupporttheweightwithoutsagging.ThetwistbuttonpartofthelockisappliedtothebagexteriorBEFOREyouassembletheexteriorbag.Thefrontplatepartofthelockisinsertedattheveryend,AFTERyouhaveassembledyourbag.

1Reinforcethetwistlockfabricarea–ironaninterfacingsquaretotheWSofthefabricwhereyouhavechosentoinsertyourtwistlock.Ifyouareapplyingyourtwistlocktotheexteriorofyourbagandyouareusinginterlining,atthispointyouneedtolayyourexteriorRSOontoyourinterliningpieceandtreatthembothasonelayer.

2Applythebuttonpartofthetwistlocktothebagexteriorfrontofyourbag–usingaseamripper,maketwotinyincisionsthroughalllayers(yourexteriorfabricandyourinterlining)fortheprongsofthebuttonpartofthelock.Ensurethelockissittingniceandstraightatthefrontonyourbag.PushtheprongsofthebuttonpartofthelockthroughtheincisionsontheRSofthebagfabric.Slipametalwasherovertheprongsatthebackofthebagfabricandpushtheprongsdownfirmlytowardseachothersothatthelockissecuredintoposition.SeeFiga.

Figa1–a3Maketwotinyholesfortheprongs;slipthewasherovertheprongsattheback;theresult–onenice,straighttwistbutton.

3Finishmakingyourbagflapandyourbag–makeupyourbagflap.Asyouaredoingthisdon’tforgettoreinforcethetwistlockareaofyourbagflap(asinstep1).Finishmakingupyourbagbeforeapplyingthetwistfrontplatetothebag.

4Markthefrontplatepositionontoyourbagflap–withyourbagassembled;pullyourbagflapdownoverthetwistbuttonpartofthelock(asifyouareclosingtheflaponyourbag).Markthepointonthebagflapwheretheflapfallsdirectlyontothetwistbutton.Unscrewthescrewsonthefrontplateandyou’llseethatonehalfofthetwistplatehasaraisedlip(top).Useadisappearingmarkertodrawontotheraisedlip(includingtheoutersideofthescrewholes).PresstheinkytwistplateontotheRSofthebagflapatthemarkingyoumadeearlier.Theinkimprintthatgetsleftbehindwillserveasacuttingguideforthenextstep.SeeFigb.

Figb1–b3Markthefrontplatepositiononyourflap;inktheraisedlipoftheopenedupfrontplate;pressthefrontplatedowntoleaveaninkimprintforuseasacuttingguide.

Callforreinforcements…Youcanusewhateverweightofinterfacingyouhavetohand.Ifyouthinkthatyourinterfacingistoolightweighttryfusingacoupleofinterfacingsquaresontopofeachother.

5Cutaholeforthefrontplate–usingthecuttingguidethatyoumadeinthepreviousstep,usesmallsharpscissorstocutaholethatisslightlysmallerthantheinkimprint.Whencuttingtheholetakeyourtime,cutabitandthentesttheplate,thencutabitandtestandsoon.

6Assemblethefrontplateontoyourbagflap–sandwichthebagflapinbetweenthefrontandbackhalvesofthefrontplateattheholeyoumadeinthepreviousstep.Theshinyfrontpartofthefrontplateis

positionedontotheRSofthebagflap,andthebackpartoftheplategoesonthebackoftheflap.Screwinthescrewsofthefrontplateatthebackofthebagflap,atthesametimeensurethatthefrontplateholeiskeptfreeofanystraybitsoffabric.Youmightneedtostretchandtugthefabricaroundtheholealittletoaccommodatethefrontplate.SeeFigc.

Figc1–c2Viewofthefrontplatefromtheliningsideofthebag;here’stheresultviewedfromtheback.Screwingoneofthescrewsintothelockwillmakeitmucheasiertoremoveanystraggly

bitsoffabricfromtheholeinthelock.

Onesnipatatime…Theholeyoucutmustbeslightlytoosmallorthetwistplatewillnotbeheldintightlybythefabric,makingitunsecure.

Makeit…TheOversizedFashionistaBagThisroomybagisacuteandquirkytakeontheclassicclutchbag.Thebag’schi-chimetalaccessoriesandclosureslookoh-soexpensivewhilebeingtotallyfunctional.Themetaltwistlockclosureandtheeyeletsaddbothstyleandsubstancetothedesign.There’sevenazipinsidethebagtoo.Thegirlsjustaren’tgoingtobelievethatyouwhippedupthisgorgeousbagyourself!

SideviewThebagdartsaddasoft3Dsilhouetteandalittlevolumetothebag.

ShoulderstrapTheremovablemetalchainstrapmakesaninterestingfeature.

LiningpocketAflushzippocketensuresallofyoursmaller-sizedessentialsaresecureandeasytoaccess.

Needtoknow

Aheavierfabricisbestfortheexteriorofthisbagbecauseofthebag’ssize.Fabricsuggestionsincludevelvet,heavywools,realorfauxleatherorsuede,cotton,canvasordenim.Ifusingleather,onlypinintheseamallowancesoasnotto‘scar’thematerialwithpinholes.FormoreadviceonworkingwithleatherseeFabricTypes,Faux/RealSuede.Besuretouseajeanssewingmachineneedleifusingheavyfabrics.Allseamallowancesare1cm(3⁄8in)unlessstatedotherwise.Patternpiecesaregiveninthepull-outsectionandincludethe1cm(3⁄8in)seamallowance.

Youwillneed

•1pieceofhomedecfabricforexterior,1m(1yd)x1.5m(11⁄2yd)wide•1pieceoffabricforlining,1m(1yd)x1.5m(11⁄2yd)wide•1pieceofmediumorfirmfusibleinterfacing,1m(1yd)•2piecesoffusiblefleece,1m(1yd)•Nylonzip,18cm(7in)•Flexi-tube,39cm(153⁄8in)•Heavypursechain,28cm(11in)•2metaleyelets,14mm(1⁄2in)•4boltsnaps,2.5cm(1in)•2D-rings,12mm(1⁄2in)•Twistlock•Zippersewingmachinefoot

PreparationCutthefabricandinterfacingpiecesasfollows:

FromFashionista(mainbody)patternpiece(seeTemplates)

•2xexteriorfabric•2xfusibleinterfacing•2xliningfabric•2xfusiblefleece

FromFashionista(flap)patternpiece(seeTemplates)

•1xexteriorfabric•1xfusibleinterfacing•1xliningfabric•1xfusiblefleece

Transferallpatternnotchesandmarkingstothefabricwithadisappearingmarker.Alsocut:

•2piecesofliningfabric,28x20cm(11x8in),fortheflushzippocket•2piecesofexteriorfabric,6x11cm•(23⁄8x43⁄8in),fortheshoulderstraploops•1pieceofexteriorfabric,56x18cm(22x7in),fortheshoulderstrap•1pieceofexteriorfabric,10x5cm(4x2in),fortheshoulderstrapchainloops

•1pieceofexteriorfabric,50x15cm(191⁄2x6in),forthepipedhandle•2piecesoffusibleinterfacing,5cm(2in)square,forthetwistlockreinforcement

Theinterfacing,strapandhandle

1Interfacetheexteriorfabricpieces–matchthefusibleinterfacingpatternpiecestotheirpartnerfabricpatternpiecesandironthemtotheWSofthefabricpieces.IronthetwistlockreinforcementinterfacingsquarestotheWSofthebagexteriorfrontandthebagexteriorflappieces,behindthemarkingsforthetwistlock.Finally,ironthefusiblefleecepatternpiecesontotheWSofalloftheexteriorfabricpieces(directlyontothefusibleinterfacing).

2Maketheshoulderstrap–threedifferentpartsthatarecombinedtomakethestrapasfollows:

•Shoulderstrapchainloops:taketheshoulderstrapchainloopfabricpieceandfollowthestepsofOpen-EndStrapstomakeoneopen-endstrap.DividetheresultingstrapintotwoequallengthsandthreadasmallD-ringontoeachofthechainloopstraps.

•Shoulderstrap:taketheshoulderstrapfabricpieceandfollowthestepsofClosed-EndStrapstomakeoneclosed-endstrap.Beforeyoutopstitchallaroundtheclosedstrap,placeashoulderstrapchainloop(foldedinhalfwithD-ringstillattached)ateitherendoftheshoulderstrap.Foldthestrap

shutandstitchallaroundtheshoulderstraptrappingthechainloopsinsideasyousew.Dividethepursechainintotwoequallengths.UseplierstoopentheendlinksandattachthechaintotheD-ringsontheshoulderstrap.SeeFiga.Settheshoulderstrapaside.

•Shoulderstraploops:taketheshoulderstraplooppiecesandfollowthestepsofClosed-EndStrapstomaketwoclosed-endstraps.Threadtheboltsnapsontotheshoulderstraploopsandsetaside.

Figa1–a2Placefoldedchainloopsatbothshortedgesoftheshoulderstrap,stitchthestrapshut,attachthechainandthiswillbetheresult.

3Forthepipedhandle–takethepipedhandlefabricpieceandfollowthestepsofClosed-EndStrapstomakeoneclosed-endstrap.NowfollowthestepsofPipedHandlestomakeonepipedhandle.Threadaboltsnapontoeitherendofthepipedhandle.Foldthefabricendofthehandleovertheboltsnapringandsecurelystitchthefabricenddown.SeeFigb.Setthepipedhandleaside.

FigbStitchthefabricenddownovertheringoftheboltsnap.

Thebagexterior

4Insertthetwistlockbutton–followstep2ofTwistLocktoinsertthetwistlockbuttontothebagexteriorfrontatthetwistlockmarking.

5Sewthedartsontheexteriorpieces–foldtheV-shapeofthedartinhalfRSTandstitchalongtherawedgeswitha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance,followingDarts,step2.Repeatwiththeotherthreedarts.

6Partstitchtheexteriorpiecestogetherandattachtheshoulderstraploops–becausethisbagismadefromseverallayersit’seasiertostitchshoulderstraploopstotheoutsideofthebag.Partstitchingtheexteriorpiecestogethermakesiteasiertostitchtheshoulderstraploopson,asitwillpreventyoufromgettingintoatanglewiththesewingmachine.PinandstitchthebagexteriorpiecesRSTatthesideseamsonly,13cm(51⁄8in)downfromthetopedge.NowturntheexteriorbagRSOandpressthesideseamsopen.Takeoneoftheshoulderstraploops(withboltsnapstillattached)andpositiontheloopatthepatternmarking.Holditinplacewithyourfingerandstitchtothesideseaminaboxformation(forstrength).SeeFigc.Repeatwiththeothershoulderstraploop.TurnthebagexteriorWSO.

Rivetrivet…Ifit’sallgettingtoolayeredup,oryouareworkingwithheavyfabrics,youcanrivettheshoulderstraploopsontothesideseaminsteadofstitchingthem.Thiswillbemucheasierandquicker.

FigcThestraploopandboltsnapneedtofaceuptowardsthetopedgeofthebag.

7Finishstitchingtheexteriorpiecestogether–pintherestofthebagexteriorpiecesRST.Whenmatchinguptheexteriorpiecestakecaretomatchupthedartlinesonbothofthefabricpieces.SeeFigdandDarts,step3.Sewallaroundthesidesandthebottomedgeoftheexterior.Clipthecurves,beingcarefulnottocuttheseams(seeUnderstandingPatterns).TurnRSO.

FigdForprofessional-lookingbagdartsmatchupthedartlinesatthefrontandback.

Thebaglining

8Insertaflushzippocketintothelining–takethezipandtheflushzippocketfabricpiecesandfollowthestepsofFlushZipPockettoinsertaflushzippocket.Insertthepocketintooneofthebagliningpiecesusingthepocketpatternmarkingsasaguide.

9Sewthedartsontheliningandstitchtheliningtogether–sewbothdartsandassembletheliningasinsteps5and7,butleaveagapof18cm(7in)inthebottomedgeoftheliningforturningout.

Thebagflap

10Stitchthebagflap–bringthebagexteriorandliningbagflappiecesRST.Matchupalledges,pinandstitchallaroundthesidesandbottom.Clipthecurvesandsnipthecorners.TurnthebagflapRSOandiron.Topstitchallaroundthesideandcurvybottomedgewitha1cm(3⁄8in)seamallowance.

11Applythetwistlockfrontplate–followingTwistLock,steps4–6.SeeFige.

FigeOneslick-lookingbagflapwithtwistlockplateattached.

AboveYoucangettotallydifferentlooksbyhavingfunwithyourfabricchoicesforthisbag.Howabouttryingasummershabbychiclookfromusingquiltedpastelcolouredpatchwork,fadeddenimwithasomecuteappliquéwork,orlinen/velvetfabrictrimmedwithacontrastfatpipededge(seePipedEdges?AndcheckoutthehotpinkwoolI’veusedhere–definitelynotyour

averagetweed!

Assemblingthebag

12Stitchthebagflaptothebagexterior–pintheflapWSUtotheRSofthebagexterior.Placetheflapontothecentretopedgeofthebagexteriorback.Matchuptherawedgesandstitchtheflaptotheexteriorbagbackwitha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.SeeFigf.

FigfPinthebagflaptothebagexteriorandstitchitinplacewitha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.

13Stitchtheliningbagtotheexteriorbag–inserttheexteriorbagRSOintotheliningbagWSO.Therightsidesoftheexteriorbagandtheliningbagshouldnowbetouchingeachother.SeeFigg1.Matchuptherawtopedgesandsideseamsforneatness,pinatthetopedgeandstitchallaroundthetop.

Figg1Placetheexteriorbagcompletelyintotheliningbag.

14Turnthebagrightsideout–reachintothegapintheliningandpulltheexteriorbagoutthroughthehole.SeeFigg2.Pushtheexteriorbagintothelining.Stitchthegapintheliningshutbypushingtherawedgesofthegapintheliningintotheholeandtopstitchingshut.Smoothoutanybumpsandironthebag(payingextraattentiontoneateningthetopedge).

Figg2Gentlypulltheexteriorbagthroughtheholeyouleftinthelining.

15Applyeyeletstothebagflap–foldthebagdownatthebagflapcreasepatternmarkings.Ensuringtheflapiscentralandstraight,ironthetopedgeoftheflap.Stitchalinethoughthefoldedflap3cm(11⁄8in)downfromthefoldedtopedge.Followtheeyeletkitinstructionstoapplytheeyeletstothebagflapeyeletpatternmarkings(inbetweenthetopedgeandthelineofstitchingyouhavejustsewn).Clipthepipedhandleontotheeyelets.

16Finishingtouches–withtheflapopen,topstitchthebagtopedgewitha1cm(3⁄8in)seamallowanceandcliptheshoulderstrapontotheshoulderstraploops.

Takeyourtime…Whenstitchingtheliningbagtotheexteriorbag,itwillbealittlebulky,particularlyatthebagofthebagwheretheflapissituated.Justtakeitslowlytogetaneatresult.

6:HandlesAndStrapsBaghandlesaresomuchmorethanmerestrapstokeepyourbagsoffthefloor.Whetheryouareplumpingforfabric,rope,metal,acrylic,woodorleatherhandles,theycanbeexcitingdesignfeaturesintheirownright.Experimentwithcolourandtexture–addsomeexpensive-lookingchainor‘upcycle’avintagescarfintosomeswishhandlesthatwillcarryoffyourbaginstyle.Thischapterlooksatvarioustypesofhandmadehandlesandhowtoattachthemtoyourcreations.Thetablebelowshowsthemorecommonlyusedhandmadebaghandlesandtheirbestuses.

Windowshopping…I’vealsoshownyousomeoftheready-madehandlesavailabletobuyiftimeisshort.

HandleType Benefits SuggestedUses

Open-EndStraps

Versatile,basicandstrong,Oneoftheeasiesttomake.Thesestrapsrequirenoextraaccessories.

Anytypeofbag.Makesmallerversionsforuseashandleloops–neededforattachingvarioustypesofhandlestoyourbags.

Closed-EndStraps

Asabove.Anytypeofbag.Alsoformsthebasisofadjustablestrapsandpipedhandles(seebelow).

Two-

Adecorativeandmoreprofessional-looking

Anytypeofbag,butlooksbestwherethebagislargeenoughto

Two-Faced

Straps

professional-lookingfabricstrapasthetwofabricsechotheexteriorandliningfabrics.

wherethebagislargeenoughtotakeawiderhandle(tomakethemostofthehandle’sdecorativelooks).

HookandRingStraps

Detachableandthemetalwaremakesthesestrapslookveryprofessional.

Anytypeofbag.Makesmallerversionsforuseasadetachablewriststraponwristletclutchesorevensmallerversionsforkeyloopstoplaceinbaglinings.

AdjustableStraps

Adjustableinlengthandprofessionallooking.

Largersizedbagsand/orbagswornacrossthebodysuchasmessenger/satchel/travel/hobo-stylebags.

PipedHandles

‘Designer’looks.Strong,upright,andcomfortabletouse.

Mid-tolargersizedhandbagssuchasdaytimefashionbagsandheavierhardworkingbagssuchasweekender/travelandhold-allbags.

Open-EndStrapsThesestrapsaresimple,quickandeffective.Becausetheyarefourlayersthicktheyarestrong.Thesestrapsaresewninbetweenyourliningandexterior.Youcanalsousethisstyleofstraptomakehandleloopsforattachingbaghandlestoyourbags,asshown

here.SeeOpen-EndStraps.

Closed-EndStrapsThesestrapsaremadeinsimilarwaytoopen-endstraps,butbecausetheendsareclosedyoustitchthesehandlesontothefrontofyourbagoryoucanaddmetalwareto

thestrapends.SeeClosed-EndStraps.

Two-FacedStrapMadefromtwodifferentfabrics(usuallytheliningandtheexteriorfabric),thesestrapsaremoredecorativethanthetwopreviousstraps.SeeTwo-FacedStraps.

HookandRingStrapsThesearefabricstrapsthathavetriggerhooksattached.Thesestrapslookgreatbecauseoftheadditionofmetalwareandthetriggerhooksmakethestraps

detachable.SeeHookandRingStraps.

AdjustableStrapsThesestrapsmightlookconfusingtomake,buttheyareactuallyveryeasyandtheyarereallysatisfyingtouseandtolookat.SeeAdjustableStraps.

PipedHandlesIfyouwantyourbagtobeabitofashowstopper,pipedhandleswilllookthepartandthey’llstanduptotheoccasion.Theytakealittlelongertoputtogetherbutareworththe

extraeffort.SeePipedHandles.

Open-EndStrapsThesestrapsarequickandeasytomakeandarestrong.Makesmallerandshorterversionsofthistypeofstrapforhandleloops–usedforattachingcertaintypesofbaghandlestoyourbags.Youcanaddmetalringstohandleloopsifdesired.Open-endstraps/handleloopsaresewninbetweenthebagliningandexterior.

Youwillneed

•Yourchoiceoffabricinyourchosenlength(plustwolotsofyourchosenseamallowance).seeNeedtoknowforhowtogaugethewidthofyourstrapfabric

•Theappropriateinterfacingorpaddingforyourchoiceoffabric(seeChoosingFabrics)

•Fusiblefleece(optional).SeeNeedtoknowforhowtogaugethewidthofyourstrapfleece

Needtoknow

Togaugethewidthofyourstrapfabric,firstdecidehowwideyouwantyourfinishedstraptobe.Takethatmeasurementandmultiplyitbyfour.Ifyouwantyourfinishedstraptobe4cm(11⁄2in)wide,yourstrapfabricneedstobe16cm(61⁄4in)wide.Forcomfort,addalittlefusiblefleecepaddingtotheinsideofyourstraps.Togaugethewidthofthefleecetakethefinishedwidthmeasurementofyourstrapanddivideitbytwo.Ifyourfinishedstrapis4cm(11⁄2in)wide,yourfleeceneedstobe2cm(3⁄4in)wide.Allseamallowancesare5mm(3⁄16in)unlessstatedotherwise.

Makeupthebaglining,theexteriorandtheopen-endstraps/handleloops.ThenstitchthehandlesinplacetotheRSoftheexteriorBEFOREyoustitchtheliningandtheexteriortogether.

1Prepareyourbagstrapfabric–ensurethestrapfabrichasbeenironed,thenironthefusibleinterfacing(ifusing)totheWSofthebagstrapfabric.Thenironthefleecestrip(ifusing)tothecentreWSofthebagstrap.

2Foldandironyourstrap–withyourstrapfabricWSUfoldthestrapsothatitresemblesabookjacketcoverasfollows.WiththestrapfabricWSUfoldthefabricinhalflengthwaysandironthecentrecrease.Openoutandfoldthelongedgesofthefabrictothecentrecreaseandiron.Foldthewholestrapinhalflengthwaysagain.SeeFiga.

FigaFoldthestripoffabricsothatthefoldslooklikeabookjacketcover.

3Stitchthestrap–takethefoldedstrap,giveitanironandpinalongthelongopenedge.Topstitchalongbothlongedgesofthestrap.The

strapisnowcompleteandreadytosewontoyourbag(seeNeedtoknow).

Closed-EndStrapsAswithopen-endstraps,thesearequickandeasytomakeandarestrong.Makethesestrapswhenyouwanttomakeadjustablestrapsoryouwanttoattachtheendsofyourbagstrapsontotheexteriorsideofyourbag,orifyouwanttoaddmetalringsortriggerhookstothestrapends.

Youwillneed

•Yourchoiceoffabricinyourchosenlengthplustwolotsofyourchosenseamallowance.SeeNeedtoknowforhowtogaugethewidthofyourstrapfabric

•Theappropriateinterfacingorpaddingforyourchoiceoffabric(seeChoosingFabrics)

•Fusiblefleece(optional).SeeNeedtoknowforhowtogaugethewidthofyourstrapfleece

Needtoknow

Togaugethewidthofyourstrapfabric,firstdecidehowwideyouwantyourfinishedstraptobe.Takethatmeasurementandmultiplyitbyfour.Ifyouwantyourfinishedstraptobe4cm(11⁄2in)wide,yourstrapfabricneedstobe16cm(61⁄4in)wide.Forcomfort,addalittlefusiblefleecepaddingtotheinsideofyourstraps.Togaugethewidthofthefleecetakethefinishedwidthmeasurementofyourstrapanddivideitbytwo.Ifyourfinishedstrapis4cm(11⁄2in)wide,yourfleeceneedstobe2cm(3⁄4in)wide.Allseamallowancesare5mm(3⁄16in)unlessstatedotherwise.Closed-endstrapsareusuallyappliedtobagattheVERYENDofbagconstruction.Ifyouwanttoaddthisstyleofstraptothefrontofyourbag,finishmakingupyourbagandstitchthestrapendstotheRSexteriorofyourbagthroughallofthelayersforstrength.

1Prepareyourbagstrapfabric–ensurethestrapfabrichasbeenironedthenironthefusibleinterfacing(ifusing)totheWSofthestrapfabric.Thenironthefleecestrip(ifusing)tothecentreWSofthestrap.

2Foldandironyourstrap–withyourstrapfabricWSUfoldbothshortedgesin1cm(3⁄8in)andironthecrease.Nowfoldthestrapsothatitresemblesabookjacketcoverasfollows.WiththestrapfabricWSUfoldthefabricinhalflengthwaysandironthecentrecrease.Openoutandfoldthelongedgesofthefabrictothecentrecreaseandiron.Foldthewholestrapinhalflengthwaysagain.SeeFiga.

FigaFoldintheshortedgesofthestrapbeforefoldingthestripoffabricsothatfoldslooklikeabookjacketcover.

3Stitchthestrap–takethefoldedstrap,giveitanironandpinalongthelongopenedge.Topstitchallaroundthestrap.Thestrapisnowcompleteandreadytosewontoyourbag(seeNeedtoknow).FigaFoldintheshortedgesofthestrapbeforefoldingthestripoffabricsothatfoldslooklikea

bookjacketcover.

Two-FacedStrapsQuickandeasytomake,thesestrapsaremoredecorativethanthepreviousstrapsbecausetheyusetwodifferentfabrics(usuallytheliningfabricandtheexteriorfabric).

Youwillneed

•Twodifferentfabrics(ideallyidenticalinweight)inyourchosenlength(plustwolotsofyourchosenseamallowance)xyourchosenwidth(plustwolotsofseamallowance)

•Theappropriateinterfacingorpaddingforyourchoiceoffabric(seeChoosingFabrics)

•Fusiblefleece(optional,forcomfort)inyourchosenstraplength(plustwolotsofseamallowance)xyourchosenwidth(plustwolotsofseamallowance)

•Alargesafetypinoraloopturnertool

Needtoknow

Allseamallowancesare5mm(3⁄16in)unlessstatedotherwise.Whenattachingthisstylestraptoyourbagtreatitlikeanopen-endstrap(seeOpen-EndStraps)bysewingitinbetweenthebagliningandtheexterior.Makeupthelining,theexteriorandthetwo-facedstrap.ThenstitchthestrapsinplacetotheRSoftheexteriorBEFOREyoustitchtheliningandtheexteriortogether(seeInsertingLinings:PullThroughandTurnOutMethod,step3).

Ironwithcare…Beforetopstitchingthefinishedstrap,beprecisewhenironingthestrap.Youdon’twantanyoftheundersidefabrictooverhangandshowontherightsideofthestrap.

1Preparethestrapfabric–ensurethestrapfabrichasbeenironedthenironthefusibleinterfacing(ifusing)totheWSofthestrapfabric.Thenironthefleecestrip(ifusing)tothecentreWSofoneofthestrapfabricpieces.

2Stitchthestrap–bringyourstrapfabricsRST,pinandstitchalongthebothlongedgestoformafabrictube.Irontheseamsopenonbothlongedges.

3TurnthestrapRSO–usealoopturnerorpinasafetypintooneoftheshortedgesofthefabrictube.RolltherawedgeofthefabrictubeinonitselfandbeginpullingthesafetypinupinsidethetubesothatthetubebeginstoturnitselfRSO.SeeFiga.ContinueuntilthetubeisfullyRSOandremovetheloopturner/safetypin.

FigaHooktheendoftheloopturner/safetypinclosetotheedgeofoneoftheshortedgesand

pulltheloopturner/safetypinupinsidethetube.

4Stitchthestrap–ironthestrapandtopstitchalongbothlongedges.Thestrapisnowcompleteandreadytosewontoyourbag(seeNeedtoknow).

HookandRingStrapsAbitofmetalwareonyourbagisanearinstantwayofliftingitfromhomemadetohandmade.Oneoftheeasiestplacestostartexperimentingwithmetalwareonyourbagisthehandles.

Youwillneed

•Afinishedclosed-endstrap(seeClosed-EndStraps).Togaugethelengthoftheclosed-endstrapseeNeedtoknow

•2triggerhooksaswideasyourfinishedstrap•2D-ringsaswideasyourfinishedstrap•2–4rivetsandholepunch(optional)

Needtoknow

Togaugethelengthofyourstrapdecidehowlongyouwantthemaximumlengthofyourstraptobethenadd10cm(4in).Ifyouwantyourstraptobe80cm(311⁄2in)long,yourclosed-endstrapneedstobe90cm(351⁄2in)long.Ifyourfinishedstrapisthickyoucanrivetthehookintothestrap.Ifyourstrapisup2cm(3⁄4in)wide,onerivetshouldbesufficient,butifyourstrapiswiderthenusetworivets(seeEyeletsandRivets).Allseamallowancesare5mm(3⁄16in)unlessstatedotherwise.Treathookandringstrapsinthesamewayasclosed-endstrapsandapplythemtoyourbagattheVERYENDofbagconstruction.Usuallyyouwillhavemadehandleloops(seeOpen-EndStraps)withringsattachedsoyoucanclipthehookhandlesontotherings.Finishmakingupyourbagandsimplyclipthehookontotheringsofthehandleloop.

1Stitchthehookstothestrapends–takeyourstrapWSUandthreadoneendofthestrapthroughtheD-shapedringofoneofthetriggerhooks.FoldtheendovertheD-ringby2.5cm(1in)holdinpositionwithyourfingersandstitchthefabricendinplacewitha3mm(1⁄8in)seamallowance.Repeatwiththeotherendofthestrapandtriggerhook.

2Alternatively,rivetthehookstothestrap–takeyourstrapWSU,foldoneoftheendsoverby2.5cm(1in)andpunchaholefortherivet(s)5mm(3⁄16in)downfromtheedgeofthestrapthroughbothlayers.Ifthestrapmaterialistoothicktopunchtwolayersatonce,punchtheholethroughoneatatime(foldthestraptomarkthepositionoftwopunchholes).SeeFiga.ThreadtheendofthestrapthroughtheD-ringofthetriggerhookandrivetinplacefollowingthepackinstructions.

Strappingsuggestion…Youcanuseleatherstrapsandwebbingasanalternativetofabricstraps.

Figa1–a2Iftheleatherstrapisquitenarrowyoucanjustuseonerivet.

AdjustableStrapsThereissomethingreallysatisfyingaboutmakingandusingadjustablestraps.Notonlyaretheysuperpracticaltheyalsolookveryswish.

Youwillneed

•Afinishedclosed-endstrap(seeClosed-EndStraps).Togaugethelengthoftheclosed-endstrapseeNeedtoknow

•2D-rings,aswideasyourfinishedstrap,eachwithitsownhandleloop(madefromopen-endstraps

•1strapsliderthatisaswideasyourfinishedstrap

Needtoknow

Togaugethelengthofyouradjustablestrapdecidehowlongyouwantthemaximumlengthofyourstraptobe,thenadd10cm(4in).Ifyouwantthemaximumlengthtobe1m(39in),yourclosed-endstrapneedstobe110cm(43in)long.Allseamallowancesare5mm(3⁄16in)unlessstatedotherwise.

AnadjustablestrapisattachedtoyourbagattheENDofbagmaking.Inordertoattachanadjustablestraptoyoubagyouwillneedtoattachhandleloops(seeOpen-EndStraps)withaD-ringattached.

1Attachthehandleloops–attachthehandleloops(withD-ringsattached)tothesideseamofyourbag(asTheOrganizedOfficeBag,step10)andcompletetheconstructionofyourbag(seeConstruction).

2Stitchthemetalslidertothestrap–takeyourstrapWSUandthreadoneendofthestrapthroughthecentrebaroftheslider.Pullthestrapendsoitisfreefromtheslider,pinandstitchthefabricenddown.SeeFiga.

FigaPullthestrapendthroughtheslidersothereisenoughclearanceforyoutostitchtheenddown.

3Continuethreadingthestrap–takethefreeendofthestrapandthreaditthroughtheD-ringofoneofthehandleloops.ThreadthestrapendbackthroughthesliderandthenthreaditthroughtheotherD-ringoftheotherhandleloop.StitchtheenddownensuringthestrapendisfoldedontotheWSofyourstrap.SeeFigb.Youradjustablestrapisnowstrappedinandgoodtogo!

Figb1–b2ThreadthestrapthroughoneoftheD-ringsandthenbackthroughtheslider.FinallyfoldtheendofthestrapundertheotherD-ringandstitchtheenddown.

AboveAnadjustablestrapinactiononthisverysmartlookingofficebag.SeeTheOrganizedOfficeBagtomakeyourown.

PipedHandlesOfallthehandmadebaghandles,Ithinkpipedhandleslookthemost‘posh’andprofessional.Astheyareverystrongandcomfortabletohold,theyhavesubstanceaswellasstyle.

Youwillneed

•Afinishedclosed-endstrap(seeClosed-EndStraps).Togaugethelengthandwidthoftheclosed-endstrapseeNeedtoknow

•Alengthofflexi-tubeforstuffingthehandles.TogaugethelengthofthetubingseeNeedtoknow

•2triggerhooksaswideasyourfinishedstrap•Disappearingmarker

Needtoknow

Togaugethelengthofthefinishedclosed-endstrap,decidehowlongyouwantthelengthofyourpipedhandletobe,thenadd4cm(11⁄2in).Ifyouwantthelengthofyourpipedhandletobe50cm(191⁄2in)long,yourclosedendstrapneedstobe54cm(211⁄4in)long.Togaugethefinishedwidthoftheclosed-endstrap,measurearoundthecircumferenceofyourtubingandadd1cm(3⁄8in).Ifyourtubingis4cm(11⁄2in)around,yourclosed-endstrapneedstobe5cm(2in)wide.

Togaugethelengthofthetubingmeasurethelengthoftheclosed-endstrapandsubtract10cm(4in).Ifyourclosed-endstrapis54cm(211⁄4in)long,thetubingneedstobe44cm(173⁄8in)long.Allseamallowancesare1cm(3⁄8in)unlessstatedotherwise.PipedhandlesareattachedtoyourbagattheENDofbagmaking.Usuallyyouwillhavemadehandleloops(seeOpen-EndStraps)withringsattachedsoyoucanclipthepipedhandlesontotherings.Finishmakingupyourbagandclipthehooksontotheringsofthehandleloop.

1Foldandstitchthepipedhandle–foldandpintheclosed-endstrapinhalfalongitslengthtoformafabrictube.Measureandmark5cm(2in)infrombothshortedges.Stitchthestrapalongtheopenedgewitha3mm(1⁄8in)seamallowance,startingandstoppingyourstitchesatthe5cm(2in)markings.SeeFiga.

FigaStitchafabrictubeforthetubing.Stopandstartstitchingatthe5cm(2in)markings.

2Stuffthehandle–insertoneendoftheflexi-tubingintothefabrictube.Stuffthetubingintothefabrictubeuntilyoureachthe5cm(2in)markingattheotherend.Stitchalineofstitchesperpendiculartothe5cm(2in)marking.SeeFigb.Sewonelineofstitchesandstitchbackoverthelineinreverseforextrastrength.Thiswilltrapthetubinginsidethehandle.Repeatwiththeother5cm(2in)marking.

FigbStitchalineofstitchesat90degreestothe5cm(2in)markings.

3Attachthetriggerhooks–threadtheringofoneofthetriggerhooksontooneofthehandleends.Foldthefabrichandleendovertheringby2cm(3⁄4in)sothattheWSaretouchingandstitchtheenddown.Sewonelineofstitchesandstitchbackoverthelineinreverseforextrastrength.Repeatwiththeotherhookandhandleend.Thehandleisnowreadytouse.

Notriggerhookshandy?…StitchthehandleendsinaboxformationintotheRSofyourexteriorbagthroughallbaglayersattheendofbagconstruction,orsewthepipedhandleinbetweentheliningandexteriorbag.

SIXIDEASFOR‘UPCYCLING’ITEMSTOMAKEBAGHANDLES

Tryplaitingthreevintagescarvesandtyingmetalringsoneitherendforahandlethatwillbringbigimpacttoaplainbag.Tryweavingavibrantchiffonscarfthroughalengthoflarge-linkchainforaninstantlyglampursechainhandle.

Tryfelting100percentwoolitems(suchasjumpersandscarvesetc.).Simplywashthewooliteminyourwashingmachineat60degrees(orabove)onacottonscycle.Youshouldbeleftwithadensefelt-likefabricthathasalovelyfuzzytextureanddoesnotfraywhencut.Youmayneedtowashtheitemmorethanoncetoachievethedesiredtexture.Tryusingchunkybanglesforquickandeye-catchingwristlethandles.Tryhuntingaroundincharityshopsorthriftshopsforpre-ownedbagsandpursesandtakethemapartforspares.Ifyou’repatientyoucansometimessalvagesomenicevintagebaghardwaresuchasrings,purselocks,chainand,ofcourse,baghandles.Trysnippingofffabricstrapsfromoldbagsandthenembellishingthemwithprettyvintagebroochesfora‘shabbychic’mix-and-matchlook.

Ready-MadeHandlesTherangeofready-madebaghandleshasgrownvastly.Irememberthedayswhenitwasalljustbambooandplastic.Today,handbaghandlesareavailableinawidechoiceofmaterialssuchasrealandfauxleather,metalchain,wood,acrylicandLuciteinallofthecoloursoftherainbow.Someevencomewithfancymetalwarealreadyattached.Bagmakersarespoiltforchoice!

fancymetalwarealreadyattached.Bagmakersarespoiltforchoice!

WHYUSEREADY-MADEHANDLES?

Becausetheylookgreat–therearetimeswhenyouwanttomakeabagthatlookslesshomemade,andmore‘handmade’(ormaybeevenshop-bought).Addingasmart-lookingready-madebaghandletoyourcreationisaneasywaytoaddamorepolishedandprofessionallooktoyourbag.Eventhemostbasictotebagcanbe‘lifted’outoftheordinarybypoppingonapairofready-madehandles(seeTheVersatileBookBag).Becausetheyaremadefortheirpurpose–fabricstrapshavetheirlimitations.Fabricstrapsmaynotalwayslookright/perfectonyourbag.Dependingonthetypeofbagyouaremakingyoumayneedahandlethatislonger,stronger,waterproof,orhasfancymetalclips,ringsorcatchesattached.Thereareeventimeswhenyourbagfabric,whenfoldedtomakestraps,issimplytoothickforyoursewingmachine.Attimesliketheseready-madehandlesaresmartandstress-freealternativestomakingyourownhandles.Becauseyouwanttofinishyourbag–iftimeisrunningoutandyouhavealovedonewaitingontheirbagpresent,ready-madebaghandlesareextremelyconvenient!

AboveReady-madehandlescomeinanamazingchoiceofcolours,sothere’sboundtobeonetomatchyourfabric.

Typesofready-madehandles

Handlescanbecategorizedbytheirmethodsofapplicationtoyourbags.Someready-madehandlesrequirehandstitchingontoyourbag,whileotherhandlescansimplyclippedon,andyetothersrequiretheuseoffabrichandleloopsforexample.

Sew-onhandlesThesehandlesusuallyhavepre-punchedtabends.Hand-sewthesehandlestothefrontofyourbag(throughalllayersforextrastrength)usingbackstitchandtapestrythread.Youcanalsousedoubled-overqualitysewingthread,butit’snotquiteasstrongorasattractive

astapestrythread.

Clip-onhandlesThesehandlesorstrapshavestrongmetalclipends.Ensurethatyouselecthandleswithgoodqualityclips,forobviousreasons.Goodqualityclip-onhandleshavemetal

clipsthatarealmosttoohardtosqueezetogetherbyhandandtheclipsshouldbesetwithmetalteethtogripthefabric.Toapplythesehandles,placetheclipsoverthetopedgeofyour

completedbag,coverthetipsofapairhouseholdplierswithascrapoffabric(toprotectthehandlesfromscratches),andusetheplierstoclamptheclipsofthehandlesfirmlyshutoverthe

bagfabric.

TriggerhookendhandlesThesehandleshavetriggerhooksattachedtotheends.ThesetypesofhandlesareattachedtoyourbagviafabrichandleloopswithD-rings(seeOpen-EndStraps).ThreadtheD-ringsontothehandleloopsandstitchthehandleloops(withD-ringsattached)to

theRSofthebagexteriorbeforeyousewtheliningandtheexteriortogether(seeHookandRingStraps).

ChainhandlesThesehandlesaregreatformakingyourbagslookexpensiveandtheyareperfectforaddinginstantflashandsparkletoeveningandspecialoccasionbags.Toattachchainhandlesyouneedmetalrings(attachedtohandleloops,seeOpen-EndStraps)onyourbag.Tothreadtheendlinksofthechaintothehandleloopringsyoucaneitheruseplierstoprizetheendlinksopen,oryoucanaddtriggerhookstotheendsorthechainsothechaincanbeclippedon

andoff(seeTheCocktailRuffleClutch,step1).

Makeit…TheGreatGetawayBagThisisonetravelbagthatissuretogetadmiringglancesatthetrainstation,airportorhotel.Veryroomy,practical,andtotallypretty,thisbagwillhaulyourholidaygearinstyle,anditfitsintotheoverheadlockerontheplanetoo.Anicewideflatbasemakesthebageasytoseeintoandtopack,andlotsofpocketshelpkeepyourluggageorganized.Thisbagisaninvestmentmake–useyourfavouritebrightestfabricsandsetasidesomeeveningstomakeaprofessional-lookingbagthatyou’lllovetouseagainandagain.

FrontviewPerfectforthosewhocan’ttravellight,thisbagwillcarryloads.Butthankstoitssoftstructureyoucantakeitontheplanewithyou.

SideviewTheroomyfrontpocketisperfectforyourtravelessentialssuchaspassport,bookandMP3player.

InteriorInside,thebagisniceandwideandthepocketshelpyoutokeepthingsundercontrol.

Needtoknow

Inthisbag,thewovenfusibleinterfacingisappliedtotheexteriorfabric.Thefusiblefleeceisappliedtotheliningfabric.Ifyouaremakinganoilclothversionofthisbag,onlypinintheseamallowances,useanon-sticksewingfoot,andonlyironthefabricwithapressingclothusingagentleheat.Also,youwon’tneedfusibleinterfacingfortheoilcloth.Thisbagmakesusesaboxtopzip,socalledbecauseitgivesyouaniceandwidetopandsideedgewhichisperfectforlargerandboxierbags(seeBoxTopZip).Allseamallowancesare1cm(3⁄8in)unlessstated.Patternpiecesaregiveninthepull-outsectionandincludethe1cm(3⁄8in)seamallowance.

Youwillneed

•Ipieceofhomedecfabricforexterior,1m(1yd)x137cm(54in)•Ipieceofhomedecfabricforlining,1.25m(11⁄4yd)x137cm(54in)•1pieceofhomedecfabricfortrim,strapandpockettab,50cm(1⁄2yd)x137cm(54in)

•Sewingthreadstomatchthefabrics•Single-sidedfusiblefleece,1.5m(11⁄2yd)•Wovenfusibleinterfacing,1.5m(11⁄2yd)•Magneticsnapclosure,18mm(3⁄4in)•Chunkynylonzip(fortheboxtopzip),80cm(311⁄2in)•Nylonzip(fortheflushzippocket),18cm(7in)•Flexi-tubeformakingpipedhandles,76cm(30in),ORapairofready-madepipedhandles,45cm(173⁄4in)

•Strapslider,4cm(11⁄2in)•3rectangularrings,4cm(11⁄2in)wide•Largesizegridbagbottom•6bagfeet(optional)•Hand-sewingneedle•Disappearingmarker•Seamripper•Cottonorlinenpressingcloth

PreparationCutthefabricandinterfacingpiecesasfollows:

FromTheGreatGetawayBag(mainbody)patternpiece(seeTemplates)

•2xexteriorfabric•2xfusibleinterfacing•2xliningfabric•2xfusiblefleece

FromTheGreatGetawayBag(frontandliningpocket)patternpiece(seeTemplates)

•1xexteriorfabric•1xfusibleinterfacing•2xliningfabric•1xfusiblefleece

FromTheGreatGetawayBag(frontpocketflap)patternpiece(seeTemplates)

•1xexteriorfabric•1xfusibleinterfacing•1xliningfabric•1xfusiblefleece

FromTheGreatGetawayBag(cornertrim)patternpiece(seeTemplates)•2xexteriortrimfabric

Thenturnthepatternovertocut:•2xexteriorfabric(inmirrorimage)

FromTheGreatGetawayBag(ziptoppanelsfortheboxtopzip)patternpiece(seeTemplates)

•1xexteriorfabric•1xfusibleinterfacing•1xliningfabric•1xfusiblefleece

Thenturnthepatternovertocut:•1xexteriorfabric(inmirrorimage)•1xfusibleinterfacing(inmirrorimage)•1xliningfabric(inmirrorimage)

•1xfusiblefleece(inmirrorimage)

FromTheGreatGetawayBag(zipbottompanelsfortheboxtopzip)patternpiece(seeTemplates)

•2xexteriorfabric•2xfusibleinterfacing•2xliningfabric•2xfusiblefleece

TransferallpatternnotchesandmarkingstothefabricwithadisappearingmarkerAlsocut:

•1pieceofexteriorfabric,2piecesofliningfabric,and1pieceeachoffusibleinterfacingandfusiblefleece,51x27cm(20x105⁄8in),forthebagbase

•2piecesofliningfabric,26x20cm(101⁄4x8in),fortheflushzippocket•2piecesofexteriortrimfabric,75x14cm(291⁄2x51⁄2in),fortheadjustablestrap

•1pieceofexteriortrimfabric,36x14cm(141⁄8x51⁄2in),forthehandleloops,pockettabandpockettabloop

•2piecesoffusibleinterfacing,5cm(2in)square,forthehandleloopreinforcement

•2piecesoffusibleinterfacing,2.5cm(1in)square,forthemagneticsnapreinforcement

•2piecesoffusibleinterfacing,23x5cm(9x2in),forthehandlereinforcement

•2piecesofexteriortrimfabric,50x6cm(191⁄2x23⁄8in)tomakepipedhandles(ifusing)

•2piecesofexteriortrimfabric,9x5cm(31⁄2x2in)forthezipendsfortheboxtopzip

•2piecesofexteriortrimfabric,6x4cm(23⁄8x11⁄2in)forthezippullsfortheboxtopzip

Stayorganized…Therearequiteafewpiecestothisbag.Topreventconfusionit’sworthlabellingeachpieceasyoucutitandironingtheinterfacingpiecestotheirappropriatefabricpiecesassoonastheyarecut.

Interfacing,strapandhandlesandzippreparation

1Interfacetheexteriorandliningfabricpieces–matchthefusibleinterfacingpatternpiecestotheirpartnerexteriorfabricpiecesandironthemtotheWSoftheexteriorfabricpieces.ThenmatchthefusiblefleecepatternpiecestotheirpartnerliningfabricpiecesandironthemtotheWSoftheliningfabricpieces.

2Makethehandleloops–takethehandleloop/pockettabfabricandcutoffa20cm(8in)piece.DividethatpieceintotwoequallengthsandfollowthestepsofClosed-EndStrapstomaketwoclosed-endstraps.Threadarectangularringontoeachofthehandleloops.

BelowThelong,adjustablestrapwillmakethisbagabreezetocarryonyourtravels,eitheronyourshoulderorcross-bodyforatrulyhands-freeexperience.

3Stitchthehandleloopstotheexteriorziptoppanels–takeoneoftheziptoppanelpiecesRSU(withthestraightlongedgeontheleft)andmakeamarkinthecentreofthepanel18cm(7in),upfromtheshortbottomedge.TakeoneofthehandleloopinterfacingpiecesRSUandironittotheWSoftheziptoppanelpiecebehindthemarkyouhavejustmade.TurntheziptoppanelpieceRSUandtakeoneofthehandleloops(foldedinhalfwithrectangularringattachedandpointingupwards)

andplaceitontooneofthehandlelooppatternmarkingsontheRSexteriorziptoppanelpiece.Pininplaceandstitchtothepanelinaboxformationforstrength.SeeFiga.Repeatwiththeotherhandleloopandziptoppanelpiece.

FigaStitchthehandleloopinaboxformation,youcanalsostitchan‘X’intheboxifdesired.

4Maketheadjustablestrap–bringthetwopiecesofstrapfabricRST,pinandstitchalongoneoftheshortedgestomakeonelongstrap.IrontheseamopenandfollowthestepsofClosed-EndStrapstomakeoneclosed-endstrap(whichformsthebasisofanadjustablestrap).

5Makethepipedbaghandles–(ifusing),taketheflexi-tubeanddivideitintotwoequallengths.Takethepipedhandlefabricpiecesandfollow

thestepsofPipedHandlestomaketwopipedhandles(butdonotaddtriggerhookstothehandles).

6Makethezippulls–foldoneofthezippullfabricpiecesinhalfbybringingtheshortedgesRST,stitchalongbothsideedgesandclipthecorners.TurnRSOandiron.Repeatwiththeotherzippullfabricpiece.

7Stitchthezipendstothezip–takeoneofthezipendfabricpiecesRSU,foldunderoneoftheshortedges1cm(3⁄8in)andironthefold.PlacethezipendRSUontooneofthecentreRSshortedgesofthezip.Matchuptherawedgesofthezipendwiththeshortedgeofthezip.Topstitchthezipendtothezipalongthefoldededge3mm(1⁄8in)fromtheedge(seeTopEdgeZip,step1).Repeatwiththeotherzipend.

Thebagexterior

8Stitchthecornertrimstobottomofthebag–takeonethecornertrimpiecesWSUandfoldthecurvededgein1cm(3⁄8in)totheWSandironthefold.Clipthecurve,turnthetrimRSUandmatchtherawedgesonthebottomandsideedgesofthetrimtoaRSbottomcornerofonetheexteriormainbodypieces.Pinandtopstitchthetrimtotheexteriorallaroundthetrimwitha3mm(1⁄8in)seamallowance.Repeatwiththeotherthreecornertrimpieces,butensureyouplacetwoofthecornertrimsontotheRSoftheexteriorpocketpiece.SeeFigb.

FigbPinandstitchtwocornertrimstoonebagexteriorpieceandstitchtheothertwocornertrimstotheexteriorpocketpiece.

9Maketheexteriorpockettab–takethehandleloop/pockettabfabric,cutoffa10cm(4in)pieceandfollowstep2ofClosed-EndStraps.Completelyopenoutthetabandmarkan‘X’forthemagneticsnap2cm(3⁄4in)upfromthebottomedgefold.SeeFigc.IrononeofthemagneticsnapfusiblereinforcementpiecesontotheWSofthetaboverthe‘X’markandapplythenon-magneticpartofthesnapbyfollowingstep2ofMagneticSnap.Foldupthetabandtopstitchallaround3mm(1⁄8in)fromtheedge.

FigcUnfoldtheclosed-endstrapfabricandmarkan‘X’forthemagneticsnaphalfasshown.

10Makethepockettabloop–taketheremainderofthehandleloop/pockettabfabricandfollowthestepsofOpen-EndStrapstomakeoneopen-endstrap.Threadonthelastrectangularring,foldthestrapinhalfandstitchonthestrapclosetotherectangularringtotrapitinthecentreoftheloop.TakethepockettabWSU(withmagneticsnapinserted)andfoldthefreeedge2cm(3⁄4in)overtheringofthetabloop.Topstitchtheenddown3mm(1⁄8in)fromtheedge.

Pipedreams…Ifyouareamoreexperiencedsewist(andyoursewingmachinecanhandletheextralayers),youcaninsertsomeattractivepipinginthetopandsideseamsofthisbag(seePipedEdges).Theresultwouldlookfab!

11Maketheexteriorpocketflap–takethepockettabloopWSU(foldedinhalfwithpockettabattached)andplaceitontothepockettablooppatternmarkingontheRSpocketflapexteriorfabricpiece.SeeFigd.Matchuptherawedgesofthepockettabloopandthepocketflapfabric.Holdthepockettabloopinplacewithyourfingersandstitchwitha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.BringtheexteriorandliningpocketfabricflappiecesRST,pinandstitchallaroundtheflapleavingagapof15cm(6in)inthetopedgeforturningout.Clipthecorners,irontheseamsopenandturnRSO.Pushtheseamsofthegapintotheholeandironthefoldstogetastraightedgealongthetopoftheflap.

FigdPositionthepockettabontotheexteriorfabricasshown.

12Maketheexteriorpocket–taketheexteriorpocketpieceRSUandfollowthestep2ofSnapstoinsertthemagneticpartofthesnapintothe

snappatternmarking.BringtheexteriorandliningpocketpiecesRST.Matchtherawtopedges,pinandstitchalongthetopedgeonly.Irontheseamopen,fliptheexteriorlayerovertotheRS,ironandtopstitchalongthetopedge3mm(1⁄8in)fromtheedge.

13Stitchtheexteriorpocketandflaptothebag–taketheexteriorpocketandplaceitRSUontotheRSexteriormainbodyfabricpiece(whichhasnocornertrims).Matchuptherawbottomandsideedgesofthepocketandthemainbodypiece,pinandstitchalongthesidesandbottomwitha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.PlacethetopedgeofthepocketflapRSUontotheRSexterior,2cm(3⁄4in)upfromthetopedgeofthepocket.Ensuretheflapisstraightandcentral(andthepockettabclicksintoplaceontothemagneticsnap).Pinandtopstitchthepocketflapinplacealongthetopedge3mm(1⁄8in)fromtheedge–stitchingthegapintheflapshutasyousew.

14Stitchthebaghandlestotheexterior–takethehandleinterfacingpiecesandironthemtotheWSoftheexteriormainbodyfabricpiecesbehindthepatternmarkingsforthehandles.Ifusingyourhandmadepipedhandles,takethehandleRSUandstitchthehandletabstotheRSexteriorinaboxformationforstrength.Repeatwiththeotherhandle.Ifusingready-madehandlesstitchthetabstotheexteriorfabricthroughthepre-punchedholes.

AboveAnexteriorpocketontravelbagsissohandyforkeepingthosebitsandpiecesyouneedtoaccessquicklyonyourjourney!

Theboxtopzip(exterior)

15Stitchtheziptoppanelstothezip–bringoneoftheziptoppanelfabricpiecesandthezipRST.Matchupthelongedgeofthezip–you’llseethatthezipislongerthantheziptoppanels(andthatisfine),matchupthecentrelongedgeofthezipandthecentrelongedgeoftheziptoppanelbeforepinningbothtogether.Stitchthepaneltothezipwitha5mm

(3⁄16in)seamallowance.Repeatwiththeotherziptoppanelpieceandotherzipside.

16Stitchthezippullstothezipbottompanels–foldthezipbottompanelsinhalfWSTwidthwaysandironthefold.Takeoneofthezippulls(withrawedgefacingup)andplaceitinthecentrefoldedtopedgeofthebottompanel.Matchtheedges,pinandstitchinplacewitha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.SeeFige.Repeatwiththeotherzippull.

FigeThiscleverzippullwillgiveyousomethingtograbwhileopeningandclosingthebag,thusmakingthezipeasiertouse.

17Stitchthezipbottompanelstotheziptoppanel–takeazipbottompanelWSUandplacethefoldededgeontotheRSshortedgeof

theziptoppanel(withzipinserted).Matchtheedges,pinandstitchthebottompaneltothezipwitha1cm(3⁄8in)seamallowance.TurnRSU,foldthebottompaneldowntotheRSandironthefold.Ifthefabricthicknessallows,topstitchalongthefoldonthebottompanel3mm(1⁄8in)fromtheedge.SeeFigf.Repeatwiththeotherbottompanel.

Figf1–f2ViewfromtheWS:stitchthezipbottompanelandtheziptoppanelRST.ViewfromtheRS:foldthezipbottompaneldown.

Assemblingthebagexterior

18Stitchtheexteriorziptoppanelandmainbodypiecestogether–bringtheziptoppanel(withzipandzipbottompanelsinserted)andthemainbodypiecesRST.Takecaretomatchthetopedgesofthecornertrimandthezipbottompanel–bothshouldformasmoothlinethatappearstorunfromthebagsidetothebagfront/backbottomcorner.SeeFigg.Pinandstitchtogetheralongthetopandsideedgesstopping1cm(3⁄8in)upfromthebottomedge–sewseveralsecuringstitchesatbothends.Repeatwiththeotherexteriormainbodypiece.

FiggTakecaretomatchthetopzipbottompanelwiththetopofthebottomcornersoitwilllookasifoneisflowingintotheother.

19Stitchtheexteriorbagbasetotheexteriorbag–bringtheshortedgesoftheexteriorbagandtheexteriorbaseRST,pinandstitch–stoppingandstarting1cmfromtheedge(sewingsecuringstitchesatbothendsasinstep18).Repeatforthelongedgesofthebaseandbag.Clipoffthecorners.

20Insertthebagfeetintothebase–(ifusing)ifnotusingbagfeetproceedtostep21.MarkthepositionofthebagfeetontheRSofthebagbase1.5cm(1⁄2in)infromtheedge.Useaseamrippertomaketinyincisionsforeachpronginthemarkings.TakeoneofthebagfeetandpushtheprongsthroughabagfootmarkingthroughRSofthebagbaseandpresstheprongsdowntosecure.Repeatfortheotherbagfeet.

Thebaglining

21Inserttheflushzippocketintothelining–takethesmallerzipandthetwoflushzippocketfabricpiecesandfollowFlushZipPocket,steps

2–8toinsertaflushzippocketintothecentreoftheoneoftheliningmainbodypieces7cm(23⁄4in)downfromthetopedge.

22Measureandmarktheliningpocketdividerlines–takethelargeliningpocketpieceRSUandfoldthetopedgeofthepocketdown1cm(3⁄8in)totheWS,ironandrepeat.Stitchthefolddown5mm(3⁄16in)fromthetopedge.Markoneormorepocketdividerlineswheredesiredontothepocketfabric.SeeTheOrganizedOfficeBag,step11.

23Stitchtheliningpockettothemainbodyliningpieces–placethepocketRSUontotheRSoftheotherliningmainbodypiece(whichhasnopocket).Matchupthebottomandsideedgesofthepocketandthemainbodypieceandpin.Stitchthepockettothemainbodypiecealongthedividerline(s)andthenstitchalongthebottomandsideedgesofthepocketwitha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.

Theboxtopzip(lining)

24Assemblethebaglining(top,bodyandsides)–takeoneoftheliningziptoppanelsRSUandfoldthelongstraightedgedown1cm(3⁄8in)totheWSandironthefold.Repeatwiththeotherliningziptoppanel.Assemblethelininginthesamewayasthebagexterior(steps17–18)exceptthereisnoziptoinsert.SeeFigh.

FighMakeupthebaglininginthesamewayasforthebagexteriorexceptthereisnoziporzippartstoinsert.Youshouldbeleftwithaliningbagthathasalongthinrectangularholealongthe

top.

25Stitchtheliningbasetotheliningbag–theliningbaseismadeoftwolayers,whichwillformapocketintowhichthebagbottomisinserted.BringthetwoliningbasefabricpiecesWStogether,matchupalledgesandtreatasonelayer.Withtheinterfacedliningbasepieceuppermost,stitchtheliningbasetotheliningbaginthesamewayasfortheexteriorbaginstep19,exceptyouneedtoleaveoneoftheshortedgesofthebaseopen.

26Insertthebagbottomintothelining–measurethewidthandthelengthofthelining(seamtoseam).Subtract5mm(3⁄16in)frombothmeasurements–thiswillbethemeasurementofthegridbagbottom.Cutthegridbagbottomtosizeandtrimoffthecornertips.Slidethebagbottomintotheliningthroughtheopeningandstitchthegapshut.SeeFigi.

FigiSlidethegridbagbottomintotheliningbaseandstitchtheholeshut.Forbestresultsensurethatitisasnugfit.

Assemblingthebag

27Stitchtheliningbasetotheexteriorbase–openthezipontheexteriorbag.Choosewhichside(frontorback)youprefertohavetheflushzippocketinthebagliningandthenbringtogethertheliningbaseandtheexteriorbaseWST.Matchalledges,pinandstitchallaroundwitha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.TurnthebagRSObyreachingintothezipholeoftheexteriorbagandpeelingtheexteriorbagbackovertheliningbag.SeeFigj.

Figj1–j2PlacetheliningbagbaseWSontotheexteriorbaseWS,matchalledgesandstitchtogetherintheseamallowanceapprox5mm(3⁄16in)fromtheedge;turntheexteriorbagRSO

overtheliningbagbypeelingitbacklikeabananaskin.

Boxtopzip–finalassembly

28Stitchtheliningandexteriorsidetopandsideseamstogether–bringtogetherthesideandtopedgeseamsoftheliningandexteriorbagsandhandstitchthemtogetherintheseamallowance.SeeFigk.Startandstopsewing15cm(6in)upfromthebottomedge.Repeatontheotherside.

FigkHandstitchthetopandsideseamsoftheliningandtheexteriorbagtogether.Don’tworrytoomuchaboutmakingthestitchesneat,astheywon’tbeonshow.

29Stitchtheliningzipopeningtothezip–matchthefoldededgeoftheliningzipopeningtothefabricofthezip.Handstitchtogetherwithsmallandneatstitches.SeeFigl.

FiglHandsewthefoldededgeoftheliningtothefabricofthezip.Tomakelifeeasier,liftthefabricofthezipawayfromtheexteriorseamsoyouonlyhaveonelayertosewthrough.

30Finishingtouches–attachtheadjustablestraptothebagfollowingsteps2–3ofAdjustableStrapsandgoandpackyourbags!

AboveThespottyversionismadefromfantasticwipe-cleanoilcloth,greatforwhiskingawaythemarksandbumpsyourluggagetendstopickuponyourtravels.Italsomakesagreatwater

resistantholdallforsportingactivities.

7:PocketsWell-placedandplentifulpocketsinyourbagshelpkeepyoucalmandcollectedwhenyou’reinahurryorwhenyourarmsarefull.Thelastthingyouneedatabusycheckoutistohavetosendasearchpartyintoyourbagforyourmoney.Pocketscanlookasfunorprettyastheyarefunctional.Thischapterlooksatvarioustypesofpocketsandtheirmethodsofconstructionandlining.Italsoexplainshowyoucancombinefasteningswithyourpocketsinordertomakethemextrasecure.ZippocketsarecoveredintheLiningschapter(andseeClosuresforadviceonaddingzipsingeneral).Thetablebelowrevealssomeofthemorecommonlyusedpockets,theirbenefitsanduses.

Pocketsofcreativity…Experimentwithfabricchoicesandpocketpositioningforabagthat’sperfectforyourneeds.

PocketType Benefits SuggestedUses

SlipPocket

Flatprofile,thereforesuitableforallbags,fasttomakeandutilizesaminimalamountoffabric.

Greatforliningsofslimlineeveningpurses/clutchesorplaceontheexteriorforfastaccesstonon-preciousitems.

LinedSlipPocket

Asaboveplusmetalclosurescanbeappliedtothispockettype.Twodifferentfabricsprovideanexcusetoinjectmorecolour.

Asabove.

Cleverbecausetheylieflatwhenempty,butexpand Greatfortheexteriorof

largercasualbagsor

Bellows

Pocket

whenempty,butexpandoutwardstoaccommodateyourgear.Metalclosurescanbeaddedforextrasecurity.Bestforbulkyitems.

largercasualbagsorstructuredsatchels.Alsogoodfortheliningoforganizer-stylebags,totesorpicnicbags.

Elasticized-TopPocket

Aneasyaccesspocketwiththeaddedcontrolandsecurityofacinched-intopedge.Bestforbulkyitems.

Greatontheexterioroflargerbags(suchastravelbagsorhold-alls)forstoringtalleritems.Alsogoodfortheliningoforganizer-stylebags,nappyormessengerbags.

Darted-CornerPocket

Abox-shapedpocketthatlooksveryprofessional.Providesquickandeasyaccess.Canhaveaflapandmetalclosurescanbeaddedifdesired.Bestforbulkyitems.

Attractiveenoughfortheexteriorofsmarterdaytimebags(suchaswork/cityday-tripperbags)butequallygreatonlargercasualbags(suchasweekenderorgymbags).

SlipPocketAbasicpocketandoneoftheeasiesttypestomake.Asthispocketisflatinprofileyoucanputitintothedaintiestofpurseswithoutaddinganybulktothepurse.SeeSlipPocket.

LinedSlipPocketAnotherflatprofilepocketthatisverysimpletomake.Thesepocketslookmoreattractivethanslippocketsbecausethetwopocketfabricscanechothebagexteriorfabric

andtheliningfabric.SeeLinedSlipPocket.

BellowsPocketThesepocketshavein-builtcapacityatthesidessoyoucanstuffmorethingsintothepocketwithoutclutteringuptheoveralllookofyourbag.SeeBellowsPocket.

Elasticized-TopPocketThisvoluminouspocketisveryhandywhenyouwanteasyaccesstoyourgear.Theelastictopgripstalleritemssuchasbottlesorumbrellas,keepingthemflush

againstyourbag.SeeElasticized-TopPocket.

Darted-CornerPocketThesevolume-addingpocketsareperfectforwhenyouwantyourpocketstostandproudawayfromyourbag.SeeDarted-CornerPocket.

SlipPocketThisisthemostbasicofpocketstomake.Ithasacompletelyflatprofilemakingitverysuitableforsmalleveningbags,forexample.Asthesepocketsareunlinedtheyarebestsuitedtofabricsthatarethesamecolouronbothsides(self-coloured).

Youwillneed

•1pieceofself-colouredfabric.TogaugethewidthandheightofyourpocketfabricpieceseeNeedtoknow

Needtoknow

Togaugethewidthofyourpocketfabricdecidehowwideyouwantyourfinishedpocketandadd2cm(3⁄4in).Ifyouwantyourfinishedpockettobe18cm(7in)wide,yourpocketfabricneedstobe22cm(85⁄8in)wide.Togaugetheheightofyourpocketdecideontheheightofyourfinishedpocketandadd2cm(3⁄4in).Ifyouwantyourfinishedpockettobe15cm(6in)high,yourpocketfabricneedstobe19cm(71⁄2in)high.Allseamallowancesare1cm(3⁄8in)unlessstatedotherwise.MakeuppocketsandstitchthemtoyourbagfabricBEFOREconstructingyourbags.

Metal-freezone…Becausethispocketisunlineditisnotsuitablefortheadditionofmetalfastenings,thoughthere’snothingstoppingyoufromaddingaloopandbuttonfastening(seeTheReversibleBucketBag,step1).

1Prepareandfoldyourpocketfabric–foldboththesideedgesin1cm(3⁄8in)andironthefolds.Foldthesideedgesin1cm(3⁄8in)againandironthefolds.Repeattheprocessinthesamewaywiththetopandbottomedges.SeeFiga.Topstitchalongthetopedgeofthepocket5mm(3⁄16in)awayfromtheedge.

FigaFoldinthetopandbottomedges1cm(3⁄8in)andpress.Repeattheprocess.

2Pinandstitchthepockettoyourbag–choosethepositionofyourpocketonyourbaglining/exterior.Withthepocketfoldsfacingdown,pin

intopositionniceandstraight.Stitchthepocketinplacealongthebottomandsideedgeswitha3mm(1⁄8in)seamallowance.SeeFigb.Ifyourpocketiswideenoughyoucanrunalineofstitchesintoyourpockettomakeacentraldividerifdesired.

FigbStitchthepocketinplacewitha3mm(1⁄8in)seamallowance.

LinedSlipPocketThisisthesecondmostbasicofpocketstomake.Ithasacompletelyflatprofilemakingitverysuitableforsmalleveningbags,forexample.Asthesepocketsarelinedyoucanaddamagneticsnapclosureifdesired(seeSnaps).

Youwillneed

•1pieceofliningfabric•1pieceofexteriorfabric.TogaugethewidthandheightofbothyourfabricpiecesseeNeedtoknow

•Setofmagneticsnaps(optional–seetip)

Needtoknow

Togaugethewidthofyourpocketfabricdecidehowwideyouwantyourfinishedpocketandadd4cm(11⁄2in).Ifyouwantyourfinishedpockettobe18cm(7in)wide,yourpocketfabricneedstobe22cm(85⁄8in)wide.Togaugetheheightofyourpocketdecideontheheightofyourfinishedpocketandadd4cm(11⁄2in).Ifyouwantyourfinishedpockettobe15cm(6in)high,yourpocketfabricneedstobe19cm(71⁄2in)high.Allseamallowancesare1cm(3⁄8in)unlessstatedotherwise.MakeuppocketsandstitchthemtoyourbagfabricBEFOREconstructingyourbags.

1Preparethepocketforthemagneticsnap–ifyouarenotusingamagneticsnapproceedtostep2.Takeoneofthepocketfabricpiecesandmarkthemagneticsnapposition–Ipreferminetobeatleast3cm(11⁄8in)downfromtherawtopedge.Theninsertthenon-magnetichalfofthesnapintothepocketRSliningbyfollowingthestepsofSnaps.Insertthemagnetichalfofthesnapintothepocketpositiononthebaglining/exteriorfabricpiece.

2Assemblethepocket–bringthetwopocketfabricpiecesRST,pinandstitchallaroundthebottomandsideedges,butleaveagapinthebottomedgeofatleast9cm(31⁄2in)forturningout.Clipoffthecornersofthepocket.IrontheseamsopenandturnthepocketRSOthroughthegap.Pushtherawedgesofthegapintotheholeandironthepocket.SeeFiga.

FigaAfteryouhaveturnedyourpocketRSO,pushtherawedgesofthegapintotheholesothattheedgesarealigned.Ironthepocket.

3Pinandstitchthepockettoyourbag–choosethepositionofthepocketonyourbaglining/exterior.Ifyouareusingamagneticsnapclickthesnaphalvesonthepocketandthebagfabricpiecetogether.Pinthepocketintopositionniceandstraight.Stitchthepocketinplacealongthebottomandsideedgesofthepocket,stitchingthegapshutasyousew.SeeFigb.

FigbAndthereyouhaveit–oneneatlinedslippocket.Thisoneevenhasahandymagneticsnapclosure.

Pocketprotection…Ifaddingamagneticsnaptothepocketliningitisagoodideatointerface/interlineyourpocketfabrictoprotectitfromrepeatedpulling(seeSnaps).

BellowsPocketThispockethasthebenefitofaddedvolumesoyoucanstoremoreinthepocketwithoutdisturbingtheprofileofthebag.Asthesepocketsarelinedyoucanaddamagneticsnapclosureifdesired.

Youwillneed

•1pieceofliningfabric•1pieceofexteriorfabric.TogaugethewidthandheightofbothyourfabricpiecesseeNeedtoknow

•Setofmagneticsnaps(optional–seetip,PocketProtection…)•Ruler•Disappearingmarker

Needtoknow

Togaugethewidthofyourfabricdecidehowwideyouwantthefrontpanelofyourbellowspockettobe,andthendecidehowwideyou’dlikethesidesofthepockettobe,finallyaddontwolotsofseamallowance.Ifyourseamallowanceis1cm(3⁄8in)andyouwantabellowspocketthatis10cm(4in)wideand4cm(11⁄2in)deep,the

calculationis:1x10cm(4in)+2x4cm(11⁄2in)+2x1cm(3⁄8in)=totalbellowspocketfabricwidthof20cm(8in).Togaugetheheightofyourpocketdecideontheheightofyourfinishedpocketandaddontwolotsofseamallowance.Ifyouwantyourfinishedpockettobe15cm(6in)high,yourpocketfabricneedstobe17cm(65⁄8in)high.Allseamallowancesare1cm(3⁄8in)unlessstatedotherwise.MakeuppocketsandstitchthemtoyourbagfabricBEFOREconstructingyourbags.

Pocketplacement…Youcanstitchthispocketashighuponyourbagasdesired,oryoumaypreferthepockettositrightatthebottomofyourbag–thechoiceisyours.

1Foldandconcertinapleatthepocketsides–followsteps1and2ofLinedSlipPocket.WiththepocketRSU,measureandmarkthefoldlinesforthebellowsandthenfoldunderthesideedgesatthefoldmarks.ReturningtotheexampleintheNeedtoknowbox:inthetopandbottomcentreedgeofthepocketmaketwomarks10cm(4in)apart.Thenfoldunderbothsideedgesatthemarksandironthefoldstoformthepocketsidepanels.Afterthesidepanelshavebeenformed,foldthesidepanelsinhalf(concertinastyle)toformthebellows.Finally,topstitchathirdofthewaydownalongthefrontsideedgefoldstoensurethebellowsfoldsremaincrispandsharponthepocket.SeeFiga.

Figa1–a3Foldunderthesideedgestoformthesidepanelsforthepocket,thenfoldthesidepanelsinhalflikeaconcertinapleatandfinallytopstitchathirdofthepocketheightdownfromthe

pocketsidetopedges.

Pocketstoothick?…Ifyouwanttomakeunlinedbellowspockets(becauseyouareworkingwiththickfabric)takeonepocketfabricpieceandfollowstep1ofSlipPocketbeforereturningheretostep1tomeasureandmarkthefoldlines.

2Pinandstitchthepockettoyourbag(upfromthebottomofthebag)–choosethepositionofyourpocketonyourbaglining/exterior.Ifyouareusingamagneticsnap,thenclickthesnaphalvesonthepocketandyourbagfabricpiecetogether.Pinthepocketintoposition,niceandstraight.Asyoupinensurethesidepleatsalsorunstraightandevenallthewaydown.Stitchthepocketinplacealongthebottomandsideedgesstitchingthebottomgapshutasyousew.SeeFigb.

FigbAsyoustitchthesideedgesofthepocket,ensureyoukeepthesidepleatsoutoftheway.

3Alternatively,pinandstitchthepockettoyourbag(tothebagbottom)–followstep2butstitchthepocketinplacealongthesideedgesofthepocketonly.Thebottomedgeofthepocketwillbesewnintothebottomseamofthebagatalaterstagewhenyouconstructthebag.

Elasticized-TopPocketThispockethasthebenefitofanarrowerelasticizedtopedgesothepocketcontentsstayputwhenyou’rerunningforthebus.Itisalsogreatforkeepingthecontentsundercontrol–perfectforstoringbabybottles,forexample.

Youwillneed

•1pieceofliningfabric•1pieceofexteriorfabric.TogaugethewidthandheightofbothyourfabricpiecesseeNeedtoknow

•1pieceofelasticaswideasthewidthofyourpocketfabric•Safetypinorbodkin•Ruler•Disappearingmarker

Needtoknow

Togaugethewidthofyourpocketfabricdecidehowwideyouwantyourpockettobewhenfullyextendedthenadd2cm(3⁄4in).Ifyouwantyourfinishedpockettobe15cm(6in)wide(fullyextended),yourpocketfabricneedstobe17cm(65⁄8in)wide.

Togaugetheheightofyourpocketdecideontheheightofyourfinishedpocketandadd4cm(11⁄2in).Ifyouwantyourfinishedpockettobe15cm(6in)high,yourpocketfabricneedstobe19cm(71⁄2in)high.Allseamallowancesare1cm(3⁄8in)unlessstatedotherwise.MakeuppocketsandstitchthemtoyourbagfabricBEFOREconstructingyourbags.

1Createachannelfortheelastic–bringthetwopocketfabricpiecesRST,pinandstitchalongthetopedge.IrontheseamsopenandfliponeofthefabricpiecesoversothattheRSofthepocketisfacingout.Stitchasinglelineofstitchesclosetothetopedgetoformachanneltallenoughtoaccommodatetheelastic(seetip).SeeFiga.

Channeltunnel…Theheightoftheelasticchannelneedstobe1cm(3⁄8in)tallerthantheheightofyourelastic.

FigaStitchalineofstitchesalongthetopofthepockettocreateachannelthatistallenoughforyourelastic.

2Inserttheelastic–measureandmark2.5cm(1in)infromboththechannelsides.Attachthesafetypin/bodkintooneoftheelasticendsanduseittothreadtheelasticthroughthechannel.Pulltheelasticoutattheotherendofthechannelandremovethesafetypin/bodkin.Feelingthroughthefabricwithyourfingers,pulltheelasticbackintothechanneluntiltheendalmostreachesthe2.5cm(1in)channelmark.Stitchacrosstheelastic(throughbothpocketfabriclayers)atthe2.5cm(1in)channelmarktosecuretheelasticendinplace.

3Gatheryourpocketfabricandcuttheelastictosize–takeholdofthefreeendoftheelasticandgatherupthepocketfabrictoyourdesiredpocketwidth.Testthestretchinessoftheelastic.SeeFigb.Theelasticshouldbetightenoughtopreventyourpocketfromgapingopen,butnotsotightthatthepocketwillpullonthebagfabric.Whenyouarehappywiththeelasticwidth,trimofftheexcesselasticandgentlyallowtheelastictoslidebackthoughthechannel–almostuptothe2.5cm(1in)channelmark.Stitchtheelasticenddownasinstep2.

FigbPullontheelasticandgatherthepocketfabric.Testthepockettogetthedesiredstretchinessandtrimofftheexcesselasticwhensatisfied.

4Foldinthesidesandstitchthepockettoyourbag(upfromthebottomofthebag)–matchtherawedgesofthepocket,pinandstitchazigzagstitchalongthebottomandsideedgestopreventfraying.Foldbothsideedgesin1cm(3⁄8in)andironthefolds.Repeatforthebottomedge.Withthepocketfoldsfacingdown,pinthepocketintoposition,niceandstraight.SeeFigc.Stitchthepocketinplacealongthebottomandsideedges.

FigcThepocketispinnedintopositiononthebagfabricpiece.Providedthepocketlookssymmetricaloneithersideit’sfineifthepocketsidesleaninwardsalittle(duetotheelasticized

top).

5Alternatively,pinandstitchthepockettoyourbag(tothebagbottom)–foldinthesideedgesofthepocketasinstep4andpinthe

pocketRSUtothebottomedgeofyourbag.Stitchthepocketinplacealongthepocketsideedgesonly.Thebottomedgeofthepocketwillbesewnintothebottomseamofthebagatalaterstagewhenyouconstructthebag.

Darted-CornerPocketThistechniqueisperfectwhenyouwantastructural3Dpocket.Thebottomcornerdartsaddaboxyshapetothepocketsoitstandsproudawayfromyourbag.Youcanmakeaflapforthepocketwithanyfastening.Thisstyleofpocketisusuallyplacedupandawayfromthebottomofyourbag.Asquareorrectangularshapeworksbest.

Youwillneed

•1pieceofliningfabricforthepocketandflap(ifmaking)

•1pieceofexteriorfabricforthepocketandflap(ifmaking).TogaugethewidthandheightofbothpocketfabricpiecesseeNeedtoknow

•Ruler•Disappearingmarker•Yourchoiceoffastener(ifmakingaflap)

Needtoknow

Togaugethewidthofyourpocketfabricdecidehowwideyouwantthefrontpanelofyourpockettobe,andthendecidehowwideyou’dlikethesidesofthepockettobe,finallyaddontwolotsofseamallowance.Ifyourseamallowanceis1cm(3⁄8in)andyouwantadartedpocketthatis10cmwide(4in)and4cm(11⁄2in)deep,thecalculationis:1x10cm(4in)+2x4cm(11⁄2in)+2x1cm(3⁄8in)=totaldarted-cornerpocketfabricwidthof20cm(8in).Togaugetheheightofyourpocketdecideontheheightofyourfinishedpocketandaddtwolotsofseamallowance.Ifyouwantyourfinishedpockettobe15cm(6in)high,yourpocketfabricneedstobe17cm(65⁄8in)high.Togaugetheheightofthepocketflapfabricdecideontheheightofyourpocketflapandadd3cm(11⁄8in).Ifyouwantyourfinishedpocketflaptobe7cm(23⁄4in)high,yourpocketflapfabricneedstobe10cm(4in)high.Thewidthofyourpocketflap(ifmaking)shouldbethesameasthepocketfabricwidth.MakeuppocketsandstitchthemtoyourbagfabricBEFOREconstructingyourbags.

1Insertanyfastenings–ifusing,insertanyfasteningstotheRSoftheexteriorpocketfabricpiece(seeSnapsandTwistLock).Iliketoplacemypocketfasteningsatleast3cm(11⁄8in)downfromtherawtopedgeofthepocketfabric.

2Insertdartsintothepocket–followsteps1–2ofDartstoinsertdartsintothebottomcornersofthepocketexteriorpieceandtheliningpieces.SeeFiga.

FigaInsertdartsintothebottomcornerofbothpocketfabricpieces.

3Assemblethepocket–bringyourpocketlining/exteriorpiecesRST.Matchupthebottomandsideedgespayingextraattentiontothedartlinestoensurethattheymatch.SeeFigb.Pinandstitchallaroundthebottomandsideedges,butleaveagapofatleast7cm(23⁄4in)inthebottomedgeforturningout.IrontheseamsflatandturnthepocketRSOthroughthegapinthepocket,pushtherawedgesofthegapintotheholeandirontheentirepocket.

FigbTheliningandexteriorpiecesarepinnedtogetherandthedartsonbothsidesmatch.

4Stitchthepockettoyourbag–placethepocketontothebagfabricandmouldandformthepocketsoitsitslikea3Dboxshape.Ensurethepocketissittingniceandstraightandpinintoposition.Topstitchthepocketinplacealongthebottomandsideedges,stitchingthegapinthebottomedgeshutasyousew.SeeFigc.

FigcThepocketstitchedintopositiononthebagfabric.Thepocketshouldresembleaboxsittingonyourbagfabric.

5Makeupthepocketflap–ifusing,insertyourchosenfasteningsintotheflapliningfabric(seeSnapsandTwistLock).Totestifthefasteningpositionissuitable,placetheflapliningfabricoveryourpocket.BringtheflapfabricpiecesRST,pinandstitchallaround,butleaveasufficientgapinthetopedgeforturningout.Clipanycurves,irontheseamsopen,turntheflapRSOthroughthegap,andpushtherawedgesofthegapintothehole.Irontheflapandpinintopositionjustaboveyourpocket,atleast1cm(3⁄8in)abovethetopedge.Stitchtheflaptoyourbagfabricalongtheflaptopedge,stitchingthegapshutasyousew.SeeFigd.

Fasteningfun…Ifmakingapocketflap,afasteningcanbeappliedtotheexteriorpocketfabricpiece.Youcoulduseamagneticsnap(seeSnaps),aninvisiblesnap(seeSnaps)oratwistlock(seeTwistLock).

Figd1–d3Stitchingtheflapatleast1cm(3⁄8in)aboveyourpocketwillallowforthebulkofthepocketsoyoucanshuttheflapneatly;viewofthepocketwiththeflapraised–amagneticsnap

fasteningisusedinthispocket;viewofpocketwiththeflapdown.

Makeit…TheMulti-TaskingToteThisbagmightbeoneofthemostusefulbagsyou’llevermake.Ithaspocketsa-plenty–tentobeexact!Thebagisalsoexpandiblewithawideflatbasethatopensuplikeabox,whichmakesone-handedsearchmissionseasy.Thisbagwouldbebrilliantasanappybagorforpicnics,shoppingtrips,crafting,college,overnightstays,oranyoccasionwhereyouwanttokeepthecontentsofyourbagorganizedandundercontrol.

SideviewWithallthefastenersclosed,thisroomybaglooksquiteslim…

Sideview…butundothesidepoppersandthebagturnsintoanicewideboxthatissupereasytoseeintoandgetinto.

InteriorThepocketsarewaitingtobestuffedwithbabybottles,nappiesandtoysorcouldkeepyourcraft,college,weekendtrip,picnic,orbeachgearorganized.

Needtoknow

Youneedplaincoloureddurablehomedecfabricsfortheexteriorandtheliningofthisbagbecauseallthepocketsareunlined(topreventtoomuchbulkinthesideseams).Allseamallowancesare1cm(3⁄8in)unlessstated.Patternpiecesaregiveninthepull-outsectionandincludethe1cm(3⁄8in)seamallowance.

Youwillneed

•1pieceofplaincolouredhomedecfabricforexterior,1m(1yd)x1.5m(11⁄2yd)wide

•1pieceofplaincolouredfabricforlining,1m(1yd)x1.5m(11⁄2yd)wide•1pieceofhomedecfabricforpockettrim,handlesandties,50cm(1⁄2yd)x1.5m(11⁄2yd)wide

•Single-sidedfusiblefleece,1m(1yd)•Sewingthreadstomatchthefabrics•Magneticsnapclosure,18mm(3⁄4in)•2poppersnaps,1.5cm(1⁄2in)•4eyelets,11mm(1⁄2in)•Fusibleinterfacingforeyeletandmagneticsnapreinforcement,20cm(8in)•6metalbagfeet(optional)•Gridbagbottomandstrongdouble-sidedtape•4cordstoppersand4cordends(optional)•Loopturnerorlargesafetypin•Disappearingmarker•Cottonorlinenpressingcloth

PreparationCutthefabricandinterfacingpiecesasfollows:

FromTheMulti-TaskingTote(mainbody)patternpiece(seeTemplates)

•2xexteriorfabric•2xliningfabric•2xfusiblefleece

FromTheMulti-TaskingTote(front/backpocket)patternpiece(seeTemplates)

•2xexteriorfabric

FromTheMulti-TaskingTote(liningpocket)patternpiece(seeTemplates)

•2xliningfabric

FromTheMulti-TaskingTote(handlebase)patternpiece(seeTemplates)

•2xexteriorfabricThenturnthepatternoverandcut:

•2xexteriorfabric(inmirrorimage)

FromTheMulti-TaskingTote(handle)patternpiece(seeTemplates)

•2xexteriorfabric•2xliningfabric

TransferallpatternnotchesandmarkingstothefabricwithadisappearingmarkerAlsocut:

•2piecesofexteriorfabric,2ofliningfabricand2offusiblefleece,32x20cm(121⁄2x8in),forthebagsides

•1pieceofexteriorfabric,1ofliningfabricand1offusiblefleece,40x20cm(153⁄4x8in),forthebagbase

•2piecesofexteriorfabric,29x20cm(111⁄2x8in),fortheexteriorsidepockets

•2piecesoftrimfabric,29x10cm(111⁄2inx4in),fortheexteriorsidepockettrim

•2piecesoftrimfabric,40x14cm(153⁄4x51⁄2in),fortheexteriorfront/backpockettrim

•2piecesoftrimfabric,48x14cm(19x51⁄2in),fortheliningpockettrim•2stripsoftrimfabric,84x3cm(33x11⁄8in),fortheties•2piecesoffusibleinterfacing,7x2.5cm(23⁄4x1in),fortheeyeletreinforcement

•2piecesofliningfabric,10cm(4in)square,forthemagneticsnaptabs

•2piecesoffusibleinterfacing,10x2.5cm(4x1in),forthemagneticsnapreinforcement

Labellogic…Astherearequiteafewpiecestothisbag,it’sworthlabellingandinterfacing(ifnecessary)eachpieceasyoucutittopreventconfusion.

Thetabs,handles,tiesandboundedgepockets

1Makeupthemagneticsnaptabs–takeoneofthemagneticsnaptabfabricpieces,foldinhalfRSTandironthefold.OpenupandplaceoneofthemagneticsnapfusiblereinforcementpiecesjustabovethefoldontheWSandironinplace.Makean‘X’markforthemagneticsnap11⁄2cm(1⁄2in)upfromthefold.Followstep2ofMagneticSnap.FoldthemagneticsnapinhalfRSTandstitchalongbothsideedges.Clipthecorners,turnRSO,andiron.SeeFiga.Repeatfortheothermagneticsnapfabricpieceandsnaphalf.

FigaThesemagneticsnaptabswillbesewnintothebaglininglater.

2Makeupthebaghandles–bringoneofthehandleliningandhandleexteriorpiecesRSTandfollowsteps2–4oftwo-facedstrapsinAdjustableStraps.TakethehandleRSUandfoldthecentreofthehandleinhalfRST.Stitcha10cm(4in)lineofstitchesalongtheopenedgealongthecentreonly.SeeFigb.Repeatfortheotherhandle.

FigbFoldingthestrapinthemiddlelikethiswillmakeitmorecomfortabletouseanditlooksgoodtoo.

3Makeupthebagties–takeoneofthetiefabricpiecesRSU,foldinbothlongedges5mm(3⁄16in)andiron.FoldinhalflengthwaysRST,ironandstitchalongtheopenlongedge.Divideintotwoequallengths.Repeatwiththeothertiefabricpiece.

4Gatherthetopandbottomedgesoffront/backpockets–stitchgatheringstitchesalongthetopandbottomedgesofthepocket5mm(3⁄16in)upfromtheedge.Gatherthepocketfabricuntilitisthesamewidthatthetopandthebottomasthemainbodyfabricpiece.Forsewinggatheringstitchesandgatheringthefabricseestep3ofGathers.Repeatwiththeotherfront/backpocketpiece.

5Bindthetopedgesofallthepockets–thethreedifferentpocketsareboundasfollows:

•Thesidepockets:takeoneofthesidepockettrimpiecesWSUandfoldinbothlongedges1cm(3⁄8in)andiron.Foldthetrim(almost)inhalflengthwayssothattheleadingedgeis5mm(3⁄16in)downfromtheotheredgeandironthecrease.SeeFigc.Usethisbindingtobindthetopedgeofasidepocket,followingsteps2and4ofBoundEdgesRepeatfortheothersidepocketandpockettrim.

•Theliningpockets:bindthetopedgesoftheliningpocketsinthesamewayasthesidepockets.

•Thefront/backpockets:makethefront/backbindinginthesamewayasfortheotherpockets.Openupthebindingandontheshorter(height)sideofthebinding,interfacethecentreofthebindingforthetieholes.Maketwomarksforeyelets4cm(11⁄2in)apartintheeyeletarea.SeeFigd.Inserttheeyeletsaspertheinstructionsonthepack.Repeatwiththeothertwoeyeletsandfront/backbinding.Threadthetiesthrougheachoftheeyeletholes.Pintheoppositeendofthetiestothebindingtopreventthemfromescapingoutoftheeyelets.Threadonthecordstoppersandcordendsontotheties(ifusing)andknottheendsoftheties.Bindthetopedgesofthepocketsinthesamewayastheotherpockets.

FigcFoldthebindingnearlyinhalfsothereisgapof5mm(3⁄16in)betweenthetwoedges.

FigdMakemarkingsfortheeyeletsontheshortersideofthebinding–theshortersidewillenduponthefrontofthepocket.

Thebagexterior

6Interfacetheexteriorfabricpieces–matchthefusibleinterfacingpatternpiecestotheirpartnerexteriorfabricpatternpiecesandironthemtotheWSofthefabricpieces.

7Makeupthebellowssidepockets–takeoneofthetrimmedsidepocketfabricpiecesRSUandmeasureandmark7cm(23⁄4in)and5cm(2in)infrombothsideedges.Thesearetheconcertinafoldlinesforthebellows.Makethebellowpocketsfollowingstep1ofBellowsPocket(onlyfoldtheconcertinaatthemarksyouhavejustmade).

8Stitchthebellowspocketstotheexteriorsidepanels–placeabellowspocketRSUontothebottomedgeofoneoftheRSexteriorsidepanelsandmatchthesideandbottomedgesofthepocketandtheexteriorsidepanel.Pinandstitchthepockettotheexteriorsidepanelatthebottomandsideedgeswitha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.Repeatfortheotherbellowspocketandsidepanel.

9Stitchthehandlebasestothemainbodyexterior–takeoneofthehandlebasefabricpiecesRSU,foldinthediagonaledgeandshortedgeunder5mm(3⁄16in)andiron.PlacethehandlebaseontooneoftheRStopcornerexteriormainbodypieces.Matchuptherawtopandsideedgesofthehandlebaseandmainbody,pinandtopstitchallaroundthehandlebase3mm(1⁄8in)fromtheedge.SeeFige.

FigeTopstitchthehandlebasetothemainbodyexteriorfabricwitha3mm(1⁄8in)seamallowance.

10Stitchthefront/backpocketstotheexteriormainbodypieces–placeafront/backpocketRSUontothebottomedgeofoneoftheRSexteriormainbodyfabricpieces.Pinandstitchthepockettotheexteriormainbodyatthesidesandbottomwitha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.Asyousewonthesidetopedgesensureyoucatchthetieendsinyourstitches.SeeFigf.

FigfSewoverthetieendasyousewthepockettothebodytosecureittothesideseams.

11Stitchtheexteriorsidepanelsandmainbodypiecestogether–bringoneofthesidepanelsandthemainbodypiecesRST,pinandstitchtogetherstopping1cm(3⁄8in)upfromthebottomedge–besuretosewseveralsecuringstitchesatbothends.Pinandstitchanothersidepaneltothesideedgeofthemainbodyinthesameway.Continueuntilyouhavestitchedtogetherallfoursidesoftheexteriorbag.

12Stitchtheexteriorbagbasetotheexteriorbag–bringtheshortedgesoftheexteriorbagandthebaseRST,pinandstitchtogether,stoppingandstarting1cm(3⁄8in)fromtheedge(sewingsecuringstitchesatbothendsasinstep11).Repeatforthelongedgesofthebaseandbag.ClipoffthecornersandturnthebagRSO.

13Insertthegridbagbottomandbagfeetintothebase–(ifusing)ifnotusingabagbottomandbagfeetproceedtostep14.Turnthebagupsidedownandmeasuretheheightandwidthofthebase(fromseamtoseam)thensubtract5mm(3⁄16in)frombothmeasurements.Cutthegridbagbottomtothissizeandtrimoffthecornertips.MarkthepositionofthebagfeetontheRSofthebagbase.Iliketoplacemybagfeet1.5cm(1⁄2in)infromtheedge.Makecorrespondingmarksforthebagfeetonthegridbagbottomandmaketinyscissornicksinittoaccommodatethefeetprongs.Applyseveralstripsofdouble-sidedtapeacrossthelengthofthegridbagbottomandpressfirmlyinplaceintothebottomWSexteriorbag.TakeoneofthebagfeetandpushtheprongsthroughtheRSofthebagbase.Pushtheprongsrightthroughthegridbagbottomandpushdowntosecure.SeeFigg.Repeatfortheotherbagfeet.

FiggPushtheprongsofthebagfeetthroughtheRSofthebaseandthegridbagbottom.This(alongwiththedouble-sidedtape)willpreventthebagbottomfrommovingaroundinthebag.

14Stitchthehandlestothebagexterior–matchtheRSofthehandleendstothehandlebasesontheRStopedgeoftheexteriorbagandpininposition.Liftupthehandletocheckthatthehandleisalignedwiththediagonaledgeofthehandlebase.Thehandleshouldappearto‘flow’intothehandlebase.SeeFigaofInsertingLinings:PullThroughandTurnOutMethod.Repositionthehandleifnecessary,matchuptherawedgesofthehandleandthehandlebaseandstitchwitha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.Repeatfortheotherbaghandle.

Thebaglining

15Stitchthemagneticsnaptabstothemainbodypieces–takeoneofthemagneticsnaptabswiththemagneticsnapfacingoutandstitchittotheRScentretopedgeoneoftheliningmainbodypieceswitha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.Repeatwiththeothermagneticsnaptabandliningmainbodypiece.

16Measureandmarktheliningpocketdividerlines–takeoneoftheliningpocketpiecesandwiththepocketRSU,measureandmark15cm(6in)infrombothsidetopedgeswithdisappearingmarker.Makecorrespondingmarksdirectlybelowbothmarksonthebottomedgeandmarkthelinebetweenthetwopoints.SeeTheOrganizedOfficeBag,step11.

17Stitchthepocketstothemainbodypieces–placethepocketRSUontotheRSoftheliningmainbody.Matchupthepocketdividerlinesonthepockettothepocketdividerpatternmarkingsonthemainbodypatternpieceandpinandstitchinplace..Matchupthepocketdividerlinesonthepocketandtheliningandpinandstitchinplace.Stitchthe

pockettothemainbodyalongbothpocketsideedgeswitha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.Atthebottomedgeofthedividedpocketsfoldandpinsmallconcertinapleatfoldsbythedividerlines.Asyoufoldtheconcertinaatthesideedgesofthepocketpieceensureyouleaveenoughclearanceforthemainbody1cm(3⁄8in)seamallowance.SeeFigi.Matchuptherawbottomedgesofthepocketandtheliningbodyandstitchalongthebottomedgewitha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.Repeatsteps16and17fortheotherpocketandliningmainbodypiece.

FigiMakesmallconcertinafoldsatthebottomsidesoftheindividualpockets.Leaveenoughspaceatthesidepocketedgesforsewingtheliningtogether.

18Pinandstitchtheliningbagtogether–makeuptheliningbaginthesamewayastheexteriorbaginsteps11and12exceptyouneedtoleaveagapof18cm(7in)inoneofthesideedgesforturningout,andyoudonotneedtoturnthebagRSO.

Assemblingthebag

19Stitchtheliningbagtotheexteriorbag–inserttheexteriorbagRSOintotheliningbagWSO.Therightsidesoftheexteriorbagandtheliningbagshouldnowbetouchingeachother.Ensurethehandlesandthemagneticsnaptabsaretuckeddownoutoftheway.Pinandstitchallaroundthetopedge.SeeIInsertingLinings:PullThroughandTurnOutMethod,step4.

20Turnthebagrightsideout–reachintothegapintheliningandpulltheexteriorbagoutthroughthehole.Pushtheexteriorbagintothelining.Stitchthegapintheliningshutbypushingtherawedgesofthegapintheliningintotheholeandtopstitchingshut.Smoothoutanybumpsandironthebag,payingextraattentiontoneateningthetopedge.SeeInsertingLinings:PullThroughandTurnOutMethod,steps5and6.

21Topstitchthetopofthebag–foldbothmagneticsnaptabsdownontotheliningandpininplacereadyforstitchinginthetabsinadownposition.SeeFigj.Topstitchallaroundthebagtopedgewitha1cm(3⁄8in)seamallowance.Takeyourtimeasyousewoverthemagneticsnaptabs,asitwillbealittlebumpy.

FigjFoldthemagneticsnaptabdowncompletelyandpininplace.

22Applypoppersnapstothebaggusset–onbothsidesofthegusset,measureandmarkan‘X’1.5cm(1⁄2in)downfromthegussettopedgeand1.5cm(1⁄2in)infromthesideseamsforthepoppersnapplacement.Followtheinstructionsonthepackettoinsertthepoppersnapstothetopedgeofthebaggusset.SeeFigk.

Figk1–k2Insertthepoppersnapsintobothgussetsidetopedgesthroughallfabriclayers.

AboveThepoppersaresohandy–fillyourbagthensnapthemshuttokeepeverythingundercontrol.Thenwhenyouneedtogetinthereforagoodlookaround,unpopandyourreadytogo!

8:EdgingsandTrimmingsThesayinggoesthatit’sthesmallthingsthatmakeallthedifferenceandsometimesthatdefinitelyringstrue.Inthesamewaythatit’snicetoadornourselveswithprettybraceletsandnecklaceswecanalsohavefunadorningourbags.Thischapterisallaboutedgingandaccessorizingyourarmcandy.Thepagesthatfollowlookattwodifferentwaysofprofessionallytrimmingtheedgesofyourbags,andafterthatwe’regoingwindow-shoppingforsomeready-madebagtrimmings.

Upcycleandaway…Thisistheperfectopportunitytobringoldribbon,beadsandbaublesbacktolife.

Edge/TrimType ApplicationandBenefits Varieties

Binding

Sewnalongedgestocoverrawedges.Useinmatchingorcontrastingtonesandusedifferenttexturesfortactileinterest.Reinforcesedges.

Straightorbias.Shop-boughtorhomemade(seeopposite).

Piping

Sewnbetweentwolayerssothatthetrimrunsalongtheedge.Reinforcesedgesanddefinesshapes.

Thickorthin,matchingorcontrasting,twistedcord.Makeyourownpipingforahugechoiceofcolours(seePipedEdges).

Ready-MadeTrim

Sewnalongedgesofbagorbagflaps.Addseye-catchingmovementandgivesaninstant

Beaded,pom-pom,featherboa,sequinfringe.

movementandgivesaninstanteffect. fringe.

Ribbon

Veryversatilesewnstraightasbinding,ordecorativebandsofcolour,orusedasembellishment(madeintotassels,bowsandcorsages).

Silk,velvet,georgette,chiffon,wired,metallic,grosgrain,sequin,beaded,embroidered.

Jewellery

Pincorsagesorbroochesontoflapsorhandles.Addlengthsofbeadstocorsagesormakeyouownbagcharms.Makeinterchangeablewristhandlesfromcolourfulbangles.Itemscanbeswappedtovarythelook.

Frenchbeadedflowers,modernorantiquebrooches,hatpins,enamelledbadges,beadednecklaces/bracelets,bangles.

Embellishments Applyanywhereyouwanttozhushupyourcreations.

Tassels,buttons,beads,yo-yo,appliquépatches,sequins,fabricflowers,self-coverbuttons.

BoundEdgesYou’veprobablyseenhoweffectivebindinglooksonquilts;wellitalsolooksverycoolonbags.Bindingaddsanattractivepicture-frameeffect.Trybindingyourpockettopsfor

starters.SeeBoundEdges.

PipedEdgesPipingisanattractiveandprofessional-lookingwaytotrimseams.Itisalsoaneffectivewaytoreinforcetheseams,helpingyourbagstomaintaintheirshape.Thethickerthe

pipingthemoresupportitwillprovide.SeePipedEdges

Twotypesofbinding–straightorbias

Inordertobindorpipeyouredgesyouneedsomefabricbindingtape.Youcanusebindingtapethatiscutonthestraightgrainortapethatiscutonthebias.Thechoiceofbindingyouuseisdeterminedbytheshapeoftheedgethatyou

wanttobind.Curvededgesneedtobeedgedwithbindingthatiscutonthebias.Thisisbecausebias-cuttapecanbeappliedtocurvededgeswithoutitwrinklingup.Shop-boughtbindingisusuallypre-foldedsatinorcottontapecutonthebias–whichiswhyit’scalledbiasbinding.Youcanalsomakeyourownbiasbinding(seebox).Ifyouareonlyedgingstraightedgesyoucancutyourownbindingstripsalongthestraightgrain.Ifindoubt,sticktobiasbinding,whichisperfectforbothcurvedandstraightedges.Allthetechniquesandtheprojectinthischapterwillmakeuseofbiasbinding.

MakingYourOwnBiasBindingItmightbefastertobuybiasbinding,butyouwillbelimitedtothecoloursandthewidthsavailableintheshop.Whynottrymakingyourownprettybiasbindinginfabricsofyourchoice?

Onethingyou’llneedisabiastapemakertospeedthingsup.Availableindifferentwidths,abiastapemakercreatesthetwobindingfoldsreadyforyoutoirontheminplace.Cutthefabricstripstotheheightstatedontheinstructionsofyourbiastapemaker.Tocutthestriponthebias,cutthefabricat45degreesfromtheselvage.Tomakealongcontinuousstripofbindingtrimtheendsofthestripsat45degrees.OverlapthetwofabricendsRST,pinandstitchwitha1cm(3⁄8in)seamallowance.Trimoffbothofthesmalltrianglesoffabricthatstickoutfromthesides.Irontheseamopenandpassthroughthebiastapemakeraspertheinstructionsonthepack.SeeFiga.

Figa1–a3Jointhe45-degreeendsofthestrapRSTasshownandstitchtogether;trimoffthesmallprotrudingtriangles;passthejoinedtapethroughtapemakerandironthefolds.

BoundEdgesBindinganedgehastheeffectofaddinganattractivefabricbordertotheedge.Thismakesitagoodwayofaddingaflashofcolourandstrengtheningtheedge.

Trybindingthetopedgesofpockets,thetopedgeofyourbagoryourbagflaps.

Youwillneed

•1stripoffoldedandpressedshop-boughtorhomemadebiasbinding(seeEdgingsandTrimmings).TogaugetheheightandlengthofyourbindingseeNeedtoknow

Needtoknow

Togaugetheheightofthebindingtape,decideontheheightofthefinishedboundedge,multiplythatby4andadd3mm(1⁄8in).Ifyouwantyourfinishedboundedgestobe1cm(3⁄8in)tall,yourbindingwillneedtobe4.3cm(15⁄8in).Togaugethelengthofthebinding,measurearoundallaroundtheedgeoftheitemandadd8cm(31⁄8in)forfoldingin.Allseamallowancesare5mm(3⁄16in)unlessstatedotherwise.

Iftrimmingpockettops,makeupyourpocketandaddthebindingBEFOREstitchingthepockettoyourbag.Foldinbothshortedgesofthebindingateitherendsoastoconcealtherawedges.Iftrimmingbagflaps,makeupyourflapandapplythebindingBEFOREstitchingtheflaptoyourbag.

1Foldandpressthebinding–takethepre-foldedbindingtapeandpressanoff-centrecreaseacrossthelengthofthebinding.SeeFiga.

FigaFoldthebindinglengthwayssothatthebottomfoldededgedoesn’tquitemeetthetopfoldededge.

1Foldandpressthebinding–takethepre-foldedbindingtapeandpressanoff-centrecreaseacrossthelengthofthebinding.SeeFiga.

2Stitchtheopenbindingtotheedge–withtheshorterfoldedsidefacingupwardsunfoldthebinding.WithbindingopenedandWSU,foldintheshortedgeatthestartofthebinding.PlacethetopedgeoftheopenedbindingWSUontotheRStopedge.Ensurethatyouarepinningtheshorterfoldedside(fromstep1)totheitem.Matchtheedgesandpin

allaround.Whenyoualmostreachtheendoftheitem,trimtheexcessbindingsothattheendsoverlap.Pininplace.Stitchthebindingtothetopedgeoftheitemwitha3mm(1⁄8in)seamallowance.SeeFigb.

Figb1–b2Foldintheedgeatthestartofthebindingbeforepinning.Theendofthebindingistrimmedlongenoughtooverlapthestartofthebindingthusconcealingtherawedge.

3Alternatively,stitchtheopenbindingtothepockettopedge–ifyouarebindingapockettop,foldintheshortedgefirstbeforeyourbeginpinning.Whenyoureachtheendofthepocketfoldintheshortedgeagainasbefore.Stitchthebindingtothetopedgeoftheitemwitha3mm(1⁄8in)seamallowance.

4Foldupthebindingandtopstitchtofinish–foldthebindingbackupoverthetopedgeoftheitem.Thefoldedoff-centrecreaseofthebinding(fromstep1)shouldbuttupsnuglywiththetopedgeoftheitem.Pinthefoldedbindinginposition.You’llnoticethatthebindingistallerontheWS.StitchthebindingclosetothebottomedgeofthebindingontheRSoftheitem.ThestitchesfromthefrontwilleasilycatchthebottomedgeofthebindingontheWSbecausetheWSbindingistaller.SeeFigc.

Figc1–c2Theresultfromthefrontandfromtheback.Becausethebindingistallerattheback,thestitchesfromthefrontwilleasilycatchthebottomedgeofthebindingattheback.

PipedEdgesAfinestripofcolouredpipingaddsimpact.Pipethetop,bottomandsideedgesand/orflapsofyourbags.Thistutorialshowshowtomakepipingandhowtoinsertacontinuouslineofpipingaroundthetopedgeofabag.ToseehowtopipethesideandbottomedgeofyourbagsseeThePiping-HotHobo,steps6–9.

Youwillneed

•1stripofbias-cutfabrictocoverthecord.TogaugetheheightandlengthofyourbindingseeNeedtoknow

•1lengthofpipingcordthesamelengthofthebias-cutstrip•Pipingsewingmachinefoot•Seamripper•Disappearingmarker

Needtoknow

Thistopedgepipingtechniqueneedstobeusedinconjunctionwiththepullthroughandturnoutmethodofinsertingbaglinings.SeeInsertingLinings:PullThroughandTurnOutMethod.

Togaugetheheightofthepipingcovering,measureyourpipingcordaroundtheperimeter,andaddtwolotsofyourseamallowance,plus3mm(1⁄8in).Togaugethelengthofthepiping,measurearoundallaroundtheedgeoftheitemandadd5cm(2in)forfoldingin.Allseamallowancesare5mm(3⁄16in)unlessstatedotherwise.Whenpipingthetopedgeofyourbag,applythepipingtotheRSoftheexteriorbagAFTERyouhavefinishedconstructingtheexteriorandBEFOREyousewtheliningtotheexterior.

Inthegroove…Apipingfootreallyspeedsuppipingmakingandsewing.Ithasagrooverunningverticallyontheunderside,whichkeepsthepipingcordundercontrolwhileyoustitchitintothefabriccovering.

1Makeupthepiping–tocutbiasfabricstripsforcoveringthepipingseeMakingYourOwnBiasBinding,disregardingtheinformationaboutthebiastapemaker.FoldthebiasstripinhalfWST,iron,openout,andlaythecorddownthecentrecrease.Thecordneedstobuttrightupagainstthecrease.Attachthepipingfoottoyoursewingmachineandpositionthecordunderneaththegrooveinthefoot.Adjusttheneedleposition3mm(1⁄8in)totherightoftheedgeofthecordandstitchthepipingstopping5cm(2in)fromtheend.SeeFiga.

FigaThestartofthepipingisfullystitchedinwhiletheotherendisleftopenby5cm(2in)forfoldingin.

2Begintostitchthepipingtothebagexterior–laytherawtopedgeofthepipingontotheRStopedgeofthebagexteriorback(thiswaythepipingjoinwon’tbeondisplayatthefrontofyourbag.)Matchuptherawedgesandpin.Withthepipingfootstillattachedtoyourmachinebeginstitchingthepiping4cm(11⁄2in)infromtheend.Ensurethatyourstitcheslieslightlytotherightofthepipingstitchesmadeinstep1.Stitchallaroundthebagtopedge5cm(2in)shortoftheendofthepiping.SeeFigb.

FigbTheopen-endedpartofthepipingisontheleftside.Thisgapbetweenthepipingendswillmakeiteasierforyoutocreateajoininthepipinginthenextstep.

3Createajoininthepiping–laytheopen-endedpartofthepipingflatagainstthebagtopedge,andthenlaythesealedpartofthepipingontopoftheopenendasshown.Makeamarkwherethesealedendofthepipingfallsontotheopenend.SeeFigc1.Nowtrimthepipingcordinsidetheopenendofyourpipingtothemarkthatyoujustmade.Ifnecessaryuseaseamrippertoundoanystitchestoallowyouaccesstothepipingcord.Foldintheshortedgeoftheopenendofthepipingandlaytheclosedendofthepipingintotheopenend.SeeFigc2.Folduptheendsoftheopen-endedpiping(withthesealedendtuckedinside),pinandstitchthepipingendsstartingandstoppingatyouroriginalstitches(fromstep2).SeeFigc3.

Figc1Makeamarkwherethestartofthepiping(ontheright)fallsontotheendofthepiping(ontheleft).Figc2Unpickafewstitchesinthepipingandtrimthepipingtothemarkyoumadepreviously.Foldintheshortedgeoftheopenendofthepiping(ontheleft)thenlaytheclosed

endofthepiping(ontheright)insidetheopenend.Thepipingcordendsshouldnowbetouchingeachother.Figc3Theresultwillbeaneatjoinonthepiping.

4Stitchtheliningandtheexteriortogether(withpipingsandwichedinbetween)–makeupthebaglining(leavingagapinthebottomedgeoftheliningforturningout)(seeInsertingLinings:PullThroughandTurnOutMethod,step1).InsertthebagexteriorRSOintothebagliningWSO.TheRSofthetwobagsshouldnowbetouchingeachother.Matchtherawtopedgesandsideseamsandpin.Firmlyrunyourfingernailalongthepipingedge(throughthelining)soyoucanmoreclearlyseetheoutlineofthepipingunderneath.Withthepipingfootstillattachedtoyourmachinepositionthepipingunderneaththegrooveofthepipingfoot.Stitchascloseasyoucantothepipingwithoutactuallystitchingthoughit.SeeFigd.Stitchallaroundthetopedgeofthebag.Thepipingisnowattachedandyoucancontinuewiththerestofthebagconstruction(seeConstruction).

FigdPositiontheneedleascloseasyoucantothepipingwithoutsewingthroughthepiping.

ShoppingforTrimmingsWhenitcomestotrimmingandembellishingabagIadmitthatIamaquick-fixready-madekindofgirl.Appliquéandembroiderycanlookgorgeousonbagandpurses,butthesetechniquesarenotreallymyforte.However,thereareplentyofgoodbooksandwebsitesthatcaneducateyouonthefinerpointsoftheseslowercrafts.Ready-madedoesn’tmeanthatIalwaysgoshoppingformytrimmings,though.Herearesometrimmingsandsuggestionsfortheiruseonbags:

Atsource…Sometimesthemostinterestingembellishmentscomefromsurprisingsources(seeSourcingFabricsforBagMaking).

Pom-pomandbeadedtrimIdon’tknowanysewistthatdoesn’tlikecolourfulfluffypom-pomtrim.Tryaddingpom-pomtrimtothebottomedgesofyourbagsorbagflaps.Beadedtrimwhenusedoneveningbagsaddsanexpensive-lookingfinishingtouch.Ihavegonetotownwithdangly

trimonthisbag.Ihavelayeredpom-pomtrimontopofsomeprettybeadedtrim.

RibbonTrimmingyourbagswithribbonisquickandeffective.Tryprettyingupaplaincolouredbagwithanoversizedpatternedribbonboworstitchingapieceofembroideredribbonacrossthewidthofaplainlinenbag.Addingasatin/velvetbowonasame-colouredpursealwayslooks

fabulous.I’vecollectedprettyribbonfromrelatives,holidaysandabitofstashswappingwithcraftfriends.Ihave(handbag)plansforallofthemofcourse.

TasselsTherearesomegorgeousfabricand/orbeadedtasselsavailableintheshops.Lookinthecurtain-makingsectionoffabricstoresorlookforkeytassels.Orevenmakeyourown.Ilovetoaddtasselstothebottomedgeofflapsortohandleloopsforabitofinstantcolour,movement

andbohochic!

VintagebroochesSometimesIlovenothingmorethanpokingaroundincharityshopsorfleamarketsforoldcostumejewellery.Ithinktheoldervintagecostumejewelleryhasalotofcharmandhumour.Broochesareaninstantwaytoaddthatcharmtoyourbagsandbestofallyoucan

changethebroochtosuityourmood…andyouroutfit.

FlowercorsagesItmaybeaclassiccombination,butabigsilkfloweronaneveningbagisalwaysgoingtolookgorgeous.There’snoneedtostopateveningpursesandsilkflowers.Fabricflowerslookgreatonallsortsofbags.Ready-madefabricflowersareeasilyavailablefromshops

andyoucanalsoeasilyandquicklymakeyourownflowersusingfabricyo-yomakers.

Self-coverbuttonsFewthingsarecuterthanabunchofcheerfulcoordinatingself-coverbuttonsthatyouhavewhippedupyourself.Chooseanicefabricprintandtheself-coverbuttonswilllooksweetenoughtowearasbadges–butthey’lllookevennicerplacedontoyourbagsandpurses.Usethemforbuttonandloopclosures(seeTheReversibleBucketBag),groupedinaprettyformation,orevenasthecentreofafabricflower.Theyarequicktomake(justfollowthe

instructionsonthepacket)andareabrilliantwaytouseupfabricscraps.

Makeit…ThePiping-HotHoboAlthoughthisbaglookstechnicallyadvanced,itisnotastrickyasyoumightthink.Thesecretliesinitsroundshape–thecurvededgesmakethepipingabreeze.Thepipingandtasseltrimonthisbag,thoughsimple,bothmakeastronggraphicstatement.Butwhatyou’lllovemostisthewidecollapsiblegusset,whichmakesthebagslimwhenlessfullandcurvy-liciouswhenit’sbrimmingwithgear.

SideviewWiththesidepoppersclosedthebaghasaslimlineandcleanprofile.Thepipingreallydefinestheedgesandgivesthebagaveryprofessionaltouch.

GussetThesidepoppersopentorevealawidergussetandaroomierbag.

InteriorThecurvedtopedgeatthefrontisanicedesigndetailthatechoestheroundshapeofthebaganditmakesforeasieraccesstoyourbagessentials.Insideisasimpleslippocket.

Needtoknow

Heavierweightfabricsfortheexteriorarenotrecommended;medium-weightfabricisbestbecauseduringconstructionyouwillneedtofeelthepipingcordunderneaththeexteriorlayeroffabric.Makethepipingfroma2.5mx3cm(23⁄4ydx11⁄8in)bias-cutfabricstripand2.5mx5–6mm(23⁄4ydx1⁄4in)pipingcord.SeePipedEdges.Ifyoudonotwanttomakeonecontinuouslengthofpipingcord,youwillneedtwo78cm(303⁄4in),one30cm(12in)andone64cm(25in)lengthsofpipingcordforthisproject.Allseamallowancesare1cm(3⁄8in)unlessstatedotherwise.Patternpiecesaregiveninthepull-outsectionandincludethe1cm(3⁄8in)seamallowance.

Youwillneed

Youwillneed

•1pieceofmedium-weightfabricforexterior,50cm(1⁄2yd)x112cm(44in)wide

•1pieceofquilt-tomedium-weightcottonfabricforlining,50cm(1⁄2yd)x112cm(44in)wide

•Medium-weightwovenfusibleinterfacing,50cm(1⁄2yd)•Fusiblefleece,50cm(1⁄2yd)•Pipingcordtocomplimenttheexteriorfabric,2.5m(23⁄4yd)•Stripofbiasfabricthesamecolourasthepipingfortheflaptrimband,45x3cm(173⁄4x11⁄8in)

•Sewingthreadstomatchthefabrics•Ready-madebagstrapwithtriggerhooks/boltsnaps,approx125x1.5cm(491⁄4x1⁄2in)

•Magneticsnapclosure,18mm(3⁄4in)•2D-ringsaswideasyourbagstrap•2poppersnaps,1.5cm(1⁄2in)•Tasseltomatchthecolourofyourpipingandtrim,2.5cm(1in)wide•Pipingsewingmachinefoot(optionalbutveryhelpful–seePipedEdges)•Seamripper•Heramarker(optional)•Loopturnerorsafetypin•Disappearingmarker

PreparationCutthefabricandinterfacingpiecesasfollows:

FromThePiping-HotHobo(bodyfront)patternpiece(seeTemplates)

•1xexteriorfabric•1xfusiblefleece•1xfusibleinterfacing

•1xliningfabric

FromThePiping-HotHobo(bodyback)patternpiece(seeTemplates)

•1xexteriorfabric•1xfusiblefleece•1xfusibleinterfacing•1xliningfabric

FromThePiping-HotHobo(gusset)patternpiece(seeTemplates)

•1xexteriorfabric•1xfusiblefleece•1xfusibleinterfacing•1xliningfabric

FromThePiping-HotHobo(flap)patternpiece(seeTemplates)

•1xexteriorfabric•1xfusiblefleece•1xfusibleinterfacing•1xliningfabric

TransferallpatternnotchesandmarkingstothefabricwithadisappearingmarkerAlsocut:

•2piecesofliningfabric,25x16cm(10x61⁄4in),fortheinnerlinedslippocket

•1pieceofexteriorfabric,14x5cm(51⁄2x2in),forthehandleloops•2piecesoffusibleinterfacing,2.5cm(1in)square,forthemagneticsnapreinforcement

Interfacingandcentralgussetseam

Interfacingandcentralgussetseam

1Interfacetheexteriorfabricpieces–matchthefusibleinterfacingpatternpiecestotheirpartnerexteriorfabricpiecesandironthemtotheWSofthefabricpieces.IronthemagneticsnapreinforcementinterfacingsquarestotheWSofthebagexteriorfrontandthebagliningflappieces,behindthemarkingsforthemagneticsnap.Finally,ironthefusiblefleecepatternpiecesontotheWSofalloftheexteriorfabricpieces(directlyontothefusibleinterfacing).

2Stitchacentralseamintothegussetfabricpieces–taketheexteriorgussetpieceandfolditinhalflengthwaysRST.Pinthefoldinplaceandstitchalongthefoldededgewitha3mm(1⁄8in)seamallowance.SeeFiga.Repeatwiththegussetliningpiece,exceptfolditWST.

FigaThissimplebutclevercentreseamwillmakethebaggusseteasilyandneatlycollapsible..

Thehandleloops

3Makeupthehandleloops–takethehandleloopfabricpieceandfollowthestepsofOpen-EndStrapstomakeoneopen-endstrap.DividetheresultingstrapintotwoequallengthsandthreadaD-ringontoeachofthehandleloops.

4Pinandstitchthehandleloopstotheexteriorbackfabricpiece–takeoneofthehandleloops(foldedinhalfwithD-ringstillattached)andplaceitontooneofthehandlelooppatternmarkingsontheRSbagexteriorfabricpiece.Matchuptherawedges.HoldthehandleloopinplacewithyourfingersandstitchtotheRSbagexteriorwitha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.Repeatwiththeotherhandleloop.SeeFigb.

FigbStitchthehandlelooptotheexteriorbagsotheD-ringispointingawayfromtheedgeofthefabric.

Thebagexterior

5Insertthemagneticsnaptotheexteriorfront–followthestepsofSnapstoinsertthemagneticpartofthesnaptotheRSoftheexteriorbagfrontatthemagneticsnapmarking.

6Pinandstitchpipingcordontotheexteriorsidesandbottom–cuta78cm(303⁄4in)lengthfromthepipingcord.TaketheexteriorfrontfabricandpinandstitchthepipingcordtotheRSsidesandbottom.Startingandstoppingatthepatternsideedgepipingmarkings,pinthepipingtotheRSofthebagfrontexterior.Ensurethereisanequallengthofexcesspipingateitherend(whichwillbetrimmedofflater).Attachthepipingfoottoyoursewingmachineandusethesamecolouredthreadasthepipingtostitchthepipingtothebagexteriorfabricpiece.Thebottomedgepatternnotcheswillnowbeconcealedunderneaththepiping.Makesmallscissornicksinthepipingseamallowancetouncoverthenotchmarkings.SeeFigc.Repeatwiththebagexteriorbackandanother78cm(303⁄4in)lengthofpipingcord.

Figc1–c2Stitchthepipingtothebagexterior.Stitch3mm(1⁄8in)totherightofthepipingitself;lookforthenotchmarkingsunderneaththepipingcordandmakesmallscissornicksinthepiping

seamallowance(atthenotchmarkings).

7Pinandstitchpipingcordontothebagfrontcurvedtopedge–cuta30cm(12in)lengthfromthepipingcord.PinandstitchthepipingcordtotheRSbagfrontcurvedtopedgeasinThePiping-HotHobo,step131.

8Pinthegussettothebagexterior–takethepipingcordendsandbendthematrightangles,pointingoutofthebagfabric.SeeFigd.PintheRSoftheexteriorgussettotheRSofthebagexteriorfront(overthesticking-outpipingcordends).Takecaretomatchthenotchmarkingsonbothfabricpieces.Ensurethereisanequallengthofexcessgussetfabricateitherend(whichwillbetrimmedofflater).Pinonthegussetside.

FigdBendthepipingcordsdownat90degreessotheystickoutfromthesideedges.

9Stitchthegussettothebagexterior–useaHeramarkeroryourfingernailtotracefirmlyaroundtheoutlineofthepipingcord(throughthegussetfabric)soyoucanmoreeasilyseeittosewaroundit.Withthepipingfootstillattached,stitchthegussettothebagexteriorallaroundthesidesandbottom.Asyousewoverthebumpypipingcordendstakecaretohelpthepipingfootengage(anddisengageattheend)withthepipingcord(feelforitthroughthegussetfabric).Stitchonthegussetside.Trimtheexcesspipingoffbothsidesclosetotheseams.Clipthecurvedseams.SeeFige.Repeatsteps8and9topinandstitchthegussettotheexteriorback.Trimofftheexcessgussetfabricatbothgussettopedges.

Fige1-e2Asyoustitchthegussettotheexteriorfeelforthepipingunderneaththefabric.Stitchascloseasyoucantothepipingwithoutactuallysewingthroughit;clipthecurvedseamtomake

theturned-outbagseamssmooth.

Thebaglining

10Insertaslippocketintothelining–takethelinedslippocketfabricpiecesandfollowthestepsofLinedSlipPockettomakealinedslippocket.PinandstitchthepockettotheRScentreoftheliningbackfabric4cm(11⁄2in)downfromthetopedge.

11Pinandstitchtheliningbagtogether–omittingthepipingcord,assembletheliningasinsteps8and9butleaveagapof15cm(6in)inoneofthebottomedgesoftheliningforturningout.

Thebagflap

12Maketheflaptrimbandandstitchontotheexteriorflap–dividetheflaptrimbiasstripintotwoequallengths.BringthestripsRST,pinandstitchtogetheralongbothlongedgeswitha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.IrontheseamsopenandusealoopturnerorsafetypintoturnthetubeRSO.Ironthebandtrim.PinthebandverticallytothecentreRSofthebagflapexteriorandtopstitchinplacealongbothlongedges,closetotheedge.SeeFigf.

FigfTopstitchthebanddownthecentreRSoftheflap.

13Insertthemagneticsnaptotheflaplining–followthestepsofSnapstoinsertthenon-magneticpartofthesnaptotheRSoftheflapliningatthemagneticsnapmarking.

14Stitchthetasseltotheflaplining–placetheheadofthetasselontotheRScentrebottomedgeofthelining(sothefringesofthetassel

pointtowardsthetopedgeoftheflaplining).Stitchthetasselinplaceonthetasselloopcordwitha1cm(3⁄8in)seamallowance.Stitchinforwardandreverseafewtimesforextrastrength.SeeFigg.Trimofftheexcesscordloopfromthetassel.

FiggStitchovertheloopcordofthetasselafewtimesforstrength.

Bestfootforward…Thoughapipingfootisbestforthisproject,youcanalsouseazipperfoottohelpyoustitchclosetothepiping.

15Pinandstitchpipingcordontotheflapexterior–taketheremaininglengthofpipingcordandpinandstitchthecordtotheexteriorflapRSasinThePiping-HotHobo,step6.

16Pinandstitchtheflapliningtotheflapexterior–takethepipingcordendsandbendthematrightanglesasinstep8.PintheRSoftheflapliningtotheRSoftheflapexterior(overthepipingcordends).Stitchtheflapexteriorandliningtogetherasinstep9.TurntheflapRS,smoothoutandusingapressingcloth,ironallovertheRSandWSoftheflap.

Assemblingthebag

17Stitchthebagflaptothebagexterior–pinthebagflapWSUtotheRSofthebagexterior.Placethebagflapontothecentretopedgeofthebagexteriorback.Matchuptherawedgesandstitchtheflaptotheexteriorbagbackwitha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.SeeTheOrganizedOfficeBag,step19.

18Stitchtheliningbagtotheexteriorbag–bendthepipingcordendsonthecurvedtopedgeatrightanglessotheyarestickingupfromthetopedge.InserttheexteriorbagRSOintotheliningbagWSO.Therightsidesoftheexteriorbagandtheliningbagshouldnowbetouchingeachother.Pinallaroundthecurvedfronttopedge.Stitchallaroundthetopedge,butstoptoattachthepipingfoottothesewingmachineinordertosewaroundthecurvedhandpipedtopedge.SeeFigh.

FighThebagliningandthebagexteriorhavebeenpinnedandstitchedtogether.Nowjustsnipofftheexcesspipingends.

Confidencebooster…Ifyoudon’tfeelconfidentaboutsewingthepipingunderneaththelayers,tryrunningasoftpencilalongtheedgeofthepiping(throughthefabriclayers).Thiswillleaveyouwithaclearguidetostitchalong.

19TurnthebagRSO–reachintothegapintheliningandpulltheexteriorbagoutthroughthehole.Pushtheexteriorbagintothelining.Pushtherawedgesoftheliningintotheholeandtopstitchthegapshut.Smoothoutanybumpsandironthebag(payingextraattentiontoneateningthetopedge).SeeInsertingLinings:PullThroughandTurnOutMethod,steps5and6.

20Topstitchthetopofthebag–withtheflapopentopstitchallaroundthebagtopedgewitha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.SeeFigi.

FigiAsyoutopstitcharoundthetopedgeofthebagdonotstitchontothepipingatthecurvedtopedgeatthefrontthebag.Keeptothe5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowancefromthetopedgeofthe

exteriorfabriconly.

21Applypoppersnapstothebaggusset–onbothsidesofthegusset,measureandmarkan‘X’1.5cm(1⁄2in)downfromthegussettopedgeand1.5cm(1⁄2in)infromthesideseamsforthepoppersnapplacement.Followtheinstructionsonthepackettoinsertthepoppersnapstothetopedgeofthebaggusset.SeeTheMulti-TaskingTote,step22.

22Finishingtouches–clipthebagstrapontotheD-ringsofthehandleloopsandadmireyourwork!BelowThisstyleofbagmakesagreatalternativetothetraditionalworkhandbag.Thestructure

keepsitlookingsmart,whileyourchoiceoffabricandtrimadduniquepersonalstyle.

7Pinandstitchpipingcordontothebagfrontcurvedtopedge–cuta30cm(12in)lengthfromthepipingcord.PinandstitchthepipingcordtotheRSbagfrontcurvedtopedgeasinThePiping-HotHobo,step6.

8Pinthegussettothebagexterior–takethepipingcordendsandbendthematrightangles,pointingoutofthebagfabric.SeeFigd.PintheRSoftheexteriorgussettotheRSofthebagexteriorfront(overthesticking-outpipingcordends).Takecaretomatchthenotchmarkingsonbothfabricpieces.Ensurethereisanequallengthofexcessgussetfabricateitherend(whichwillbetrimmedofflater).Pinonthegussetside.

9Stitchthegussettothebagexterior–useaHeramarkeroryourfingernailtotracefirmlyaroundtheoutlineofthepipingcord(throughthegussetfabric)soyoucanmoreeasilyseeittosewaroundit.Withthepipingfootstillattached,stitchthegussettothebagexteriorallaroundthesidesandbottom.Asyousewoverthebumpypipingcordendstakecaretohelpthepipingfootengage(anddisengageattheend)withthepipingcord(feelforitthroughthegussetfabric).Stitchonthegussetside.Trimtheexcesspipingoffbothsidesclosetotheseams.Clipthecurvedseams.SeeFige.Repeatsteps8and9topinandstitchthegussettotheexteriorback.Trimofftheexcessgussetfabricatbothgussettopedges.

Assemblingthebag

17Stitchthebagflaptothebagexterior–pinthebagflapWSUtotheRSofthebagexterior.Placethebagflapontothecentretopedgeofthebagexteriorback.Matchuptherawedgesandstitchtheflaptotheexteriorbagbackwitha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.SeeTheOrganizedOfficeBag,step19.

18Stitchtheliningbagtotheexteriorbag–bendthepipingcordendsonthecurvedtopedgeatrightanglessotheyarestickingupfromthetopedge.InserttheexteriorbagRSOintotheliningbagWSO.Therightsidesoftheexteriorbagandtheliningbagshouldnowbetouchingeachother.Pinallaroundthecurvedfronttopedge.Stitchallaroundthetopedge,butstoptoattachthepipingfoottothesewingmachineinordertosewaroundthecurvedhandpipedtopedge.SeeFigh.

19TurnthebagRSO–reachintothegapintheliningandpulltheexteriorbagoutthroughthehole.Pushtheexteriorbagintothelining.Pushtherawedgesoftheliningintotheholeandtopstitchthegapshut.Smoothoutanybumpsandironthebag(payingextraattentiontoneateningthetopedge).SeeInsertingLinings:PullThroughandTurnOutMethod,steps5and6.

20Topstitchthetopofthebag–withtheflapopentopstitchallaroundthebagtopedgewitha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.SeeFigi.

21Applypoppersnapstothebaggusset–onbothsidesofthegusset,measureandmarkan‘X’1.5cm(1⁄2in)downfromthegussettopedgeand1.5cm(1⁄2in)infromthesideseamsforthepoppersnapplacement.Followtheinstructionsonthepackettoinsertthepoppersnapstothetopedgeofthebaggusset.SeeTheMulti-TaskingTote,step22.

22Finishingtouches–clipthebagstrapontotheD-ringsofthehandleloopsandadmireyourwork!

BelowThisstyleofbagmakesagreatalternativetothetraditionalworkhandbag.Thestructurekeepsitlookingsmart,whileyourchoiceoffabricandtrimadduniquepersonalstyle.

Construction

OnethingIloveaboutbagmakingisafteryouhavemadeafewbagsyousoonnoticethatsomeofthebagconstructiontechniquesandtheorderofconstructionareoftensimilarfromonebagtoanother.Farfrombeingrestricting,thisrepetitionmakesiteasiertobecomemoreexpertatbagmaking,thusleavingyouwithmorebrainspacetodesigngorgeousbags.Effectivebagdesignreliesheavilyonbeingabletoplantheconstructionofabaginyourhead.Thisknowledgecomeswithpractice,butI’mgoingspeedthingsupbylistingtheorderofbagconstructionforyou.

Ifyou’reabag-makingnewbie,don’tworryifthisdoesn’tmakethatmuchsensenow.Afteryou’vemadetwoorthreebagsfromthisbook,oranyotherpatterns,you’llseethatthelistbelowdescribeshowtomakeagivenbagingeneral.Itshowsyouwhatbag-makingbitsneedtobedone(andwhentheyshouldbedone)duringthebag-makingprocess.Itshouldhelpjogyourmemorywhenyouwanttogoonanddesignyourownbags–andIbetitwon’tbelongbeforethathappens!

Generalorderofbagmakingpreparation

1Makeuphandleloops(ifusing).SeeOpen-EndStraps.2Makeuphandles/straps(ifusing).SeeHandlesandStraps.3Makeupbagflap(ifusing).Insertanyclosureintoflap(ifusing)duringflapconstruction.SeeClosures.4Makeupliningand/orexteriorpockets(ifusing).SeeLiningsandPockets.

Smoothoperator…

Smoothoperator…Ifyourinterliningisonthethicksidetrymakingyourliningslightlylesswide(atthetopedge)thanyourbagexterior.Thiswillaccommodatethethicklayersandleaveyouwithaliningthatissmoothatthetopedge.

Generalorderofbagliningconstruction

1Cutliningfabricpiecesfromthepattern.2Interface/interlinefabricpieces(ifusing).SeeChoosingFabricsandInterfacingandInterlining.3Insertpockets(ifusing)toliningfabricpiece(s).SeeFlushZipPocket.4Insertdarts/pleats/gusset/gathers/pleats(ifusing)tofabricliningpieces.SeeStructureandReinforcement.5Addtopedgefastenerssuchasmagneticsnaps(ifusing)toliningpieces.SeeSnaps.6Insertaconcealedtop-edgezip(ifusing).SeeConcealedTopEdgeZip.7Pinandstitchliningfabricpiecestogether(asdetailedineachproject).8Insertaflatbottom(ifusing).SeeFlatBottoms,TheGreatGetawayBag,step26andTheMulti-TaskingTote,step13.

Generalorderofbagexteriorconstruction

1Cutexteriorfabricpieces.2Interface/interlinefabricpieces(ifusing).SeeChoosingFabricsandInterfacingandInterlining.3Insertpockets(ifusing)toexteriorfabricpiece(s).4Insertdarts/pleats/gusset/gathers/pleats(ifusing)tofabricexteriorpieces.SeeStructureandReinforcement.5Addtopedgefastenerssuchastwistlocks/magneticsnapsetc.(ifusing)toexteriorpieces.SeeClosures.6Pinandstitchexteriorfabricpiecestogether(asdetailedineachproject).7Insertflatbottomorgridbagbottomtoexterior(ifusing).SeeFlatBottoms,TheGreatGetawayBag,step26andTheMulti-TaskingTote,

step13.8Insertbagfeet(ifusing)toRSofbagexteriorbottom.SeeTheMulti-TaskingTote,step13.9Stitchbagflap(ifusing)toRSofthebagexterior.SeeTheCocktailRuffleClutch,steps16–20,ThePiping-HotHobo,steps12–17.10*Withready-madebaghandlesattached(ifusing),stitchbaghandleloopstotheRStopedgeofthebagexterior.SeeReady-MadeHandles.11*Attachhandmadebagstraps(ifusing)tobagexteriortopedge.SeeHandlesandStraps.

*Theconstructionorderofthesestepsvarydependingonwhichlininginsertionmethodyouareusing.SeeInsertingLinings:Drop-InMethodandInsertingLinings:PullThroughandTurnOutMethod.

Suppliers

Withtheaidofafewmousefewclicks,yourtrustycreditcardandyourpostbox,awealthoflovelybagmakingandcraftsuppliesfromallovertheworldcanbeyours.AnydayisChristmasDaywhenacraftypackageisdeliveredtoyourdoor!Hereisaselectionofmyfavouriteonlineshops.

UK

U-Handbag

www.u-handbag.com

Myone-stopshopforbagandpursemakingsupplies,patternsandkits.Wedeliverworldwide.

CalicoLaine

01513363939

www.calicolaine.co.uk

Forfabrics,trimmingsandhaberdashery

ClothHouse

02072871555

www.clothhouse.com

Forbeautifultrims,awiderangeoffabricsandgreatqualityfauxleather

Clover

0081(06)6978-2220

www.clover-mfg.com/euro/index/english.html

Forahugerangeofhaberdashery,quiltingsuppliesandequipment

TheCottonPatch

01217022840

www.cottonpatch.co.uk

Forpatchworkandquiltingfabrics,books,wadding,notionsandhaberdashery

FabricRehab

www.fabricrehab.co.uk

Foragoodselectionofquiltfabrics

Gutermann

02085891642

www.gutermann.com

Forfantasticqualitysewingthreads

HarrisTweed&Knitwear

01859502040

www.harristweedandknitwear.co.uk

ForHarrisTweedclothbythemetre–thegenuinearticleandgorgeous!

Janome

01616666011

www.janome.co.uk

MyfirstpurchasedsewingmachinewasaJanome;14yearsonandIstillsewwithaJanome

JohnLewis

08456049049

www.johnlewis.com

Foragoodchoiceofdecoratorweightfabrics

JosyRose

08454501212

www.josyrose.com

Forawideselectionoftrimmings

LePrevo

01912324179

www.leprevo.co.uk

Forleather,suedeandcraftsupplies

MacCulloch&Wallis

02076290311

www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk

Forhaberdasheryandtrimmings,includingbridal

MillcroftTextiles

01159263154

www.millcrofttextiles.co.uk

Forawiderangeofhaberdasheryandbridalandoccasionfabrics

NorfolkTextiles

01263768237

http://shop.norfolktextiles.co.uk

Foragreatchoiceofdecoratorweightfabricsincludingoilcloth

Prym

+49(0)2402/1404

www.prym-consumer.com

Forahugerangeofhaberdashery,equipmentandtrimmings

VVRouleaux

02077303125

www.vvrouleaux.com

Forawideselectionofbeautifulribbonsandtrims

USA

AmyButler

740-587-2841

www.amybutlerdesign.com

Oneofmyfavouritefabricdesigners(withaveryinspirationalwebsite)

Clotilde

800-545-4002

www.clotilde.com

Forsewingandquiltingsupplies.Lotsofsewingadviceontheirwebsitetoo

CreateForLess

1-866-333-4463

www.createforless.com

Forahugesewingandcraftsuppliesatdiscountprices

DreamweaverYarns

1-888-3215648

1-888-3215648

www.dreamweaveryarns.com

Foryarnsandbag-makinghandlesandhardware

Jo-AnnFabric&CraftStores

1-888-739-4120

www.joann.com

Forsewingsuppliesinaone-stopshop

M&JTrimming

800-965-8746

www.mjtrim.com

Forawidechoiceoftrimmingsandaccessories

MoodFabrics

www.moodfabrics.com

Fordesignerfabrics(whenyouwanttopushtheboatout)

PurlPatchwork

800-597-7875

www.purlsoho.com

Forfabric,yarns,andhaberdashery–greatblogtoo!

SewMamaSew

1-503-380-3584

www.sewmamasew.com

Forahugechoiceofmodernquiltingfabrics–andanothergreatblog

WestminsterFibres

1-866-907-3305

www.westminsterfibers.com/fabric.html

ManufacturersofsomeofmyfavouritequiltingfabricsincludingAmyButlerandFreeSpirit

AbouttheAuthor

LisaLamisaLondonCollegeofFashiongraduatewhoownsU-Handbag.com–anonlinestorespecializinginbag-makingsupplies.Atwork(ifyoucouldcallitthat)shedesignsbagsandregularlywritesforcraftmagazines.Shelivesin

BrightonwithherhusbandAlanandtheirveryfriendlydog,Beans.Lisa’ssecondhomeisthecraftingcommunityontheInternet(orcrafti-verse)fromwhichsheblogsandwheresheisconstantlyamazedbythewealthoftalentofherfellowcrafters.

Visitherbloghere:www.u-handbag.typepad.com

Visithershophere:www.u-handbag.com

Acknowledgments

Bigthankstomycustomersandblogreaders–yourwarmthandwillingnesstoshareistrulyinspiring.WithoutyouIwouldhavetogeta‘real’job.ThankstoAmyButlerforbeingalovelylady,acraftheroandfabuloustoworkwith.ThanksalsogotothefolksatDavid&Charles:CharlyBaileyforherdesigntalents,JamesBrooksforkeepingcalm,JennyFox-Proverbsforsaying‘howaboutit?’andbeingmycraftyconfidante,andmyamazingeditorAmeVerso,inventorofthefinetoothcomb.ThankstomyagentJaneGrahamMawfortakingon‘unknown’me.ThankstoChrissieDayforgettingmeintobookwriting.Lastly,thankstoLornaandJackatBangwallopfortakingthelush‘coffeetable’worthyphotosandforcaringasmuchasIdoaboutgettingtheperfectshot.

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