AN E-BOOK FROM - kxcdn.com · Anyone with basic sewing skills can make the purses and bags in this...

AN E-BOOK FROM

WWW.SEWINGINSIGHT.COM

© 2014

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Introduction ………………………………………………………………… 3

Chapter 1

Purses ………………………………………………………………… 4

o Basic Envelope Purse ………………………………………… 5

o Envelope purse with an Adjustable Shoulder Strap…… 9

o Small Shoulder Bag …………………………………………… 13

o Bucket Bag ……………………………………………………… 22

o Round Purse……………………………………………………… 28

Chapter 2

Shopping bag …………………………………………………………… 40

Chapter 3

Carry-on bag …………………………………………………………… 43

© 2014 – www.sewinginsight.com

The contents of this e-book may not be reproduced or distributed in

any way without the expressed written consent of the copyright

owner.

INTRODUCTION

At some point in her life, every little girl gets a purse. As she grows older, the purse gradually goes from being a dress-up plaything to an essential accessory – one that many of us simply cannot live without. Before you know it, our closets are filled with dozens of purses in almost every imaginable size, shape and color. The biggest challenge for most of us is that many of our purses, although very attractive, are not at all functional.

The purses and bags in this book are designed to be fashionable first then functional. Every bag in this book has lots of functional features that I personally think are essential not only for me, but for anyone who loves purses but hats the inconvenience of fishing around for keys, glasses, and all those necessities that seem to get lost just when we need them most.

The really great thing about making the bags described in this book is this … since you are using the tips and patterns inside this book to make your own purses and bags, you can embellish them to suit your own personality, taste and whim.

The reason I like to sew, making my own clothes and purses, is I like the idea of having truly one of a kind items. For a very long time, I did not make patterns for my bags. Since I was making only one of a kind for my own personal use, there was no need to draft a pattern. I simply drew my cutting lines directly onto the fabric and lining. However, since I love to share my ideas, sewing tips and techniques, I decided to draft patterns for some of the more complex bags and share my secrets for making the ones that are more simple and easy to sew.

Use these patterns and ideas as a jumping off point. Make your purses your own by using the fabrics and linings that have special meaning to you. Embellish your bags and purses with things that speak to who you are. Let your imagination run wild and stand out from the crowd with your own one of a kind bags.

Anyone with basic sewing skills can make the purses and bags in this book. All you really need is a basic sewing machine. It doesn’t hurt to have a serger or the capability to embroider or create appliques, but these things aren’t really necessary to create an entire wardrobe of great looking bags.

The most important thing is that you not only enjoy yourself as you read through this e-book, but that you get inspired to create a collection of your own purses, tote bags and small to medium size luggage items.

Happy Stitching

Vernelle Nelson

PURSES

I don’t know about you, but when it comes to purses, I can never have enough. While we’re talking about never having enough… who among us can have enough shoes, but that’s another subject? The topic of the day is purses. One of my pet peeves is never being able to get my hands on what I want when I need it. It didn’t matter what size purse I had, finding things like keys, lipstick, hand sanitizer and pens seems to have always been a challenge. That hasn’t been the case since I started making my own bags. The trick for me has been to add customized pockets inside all my purses.

Before deciding to make my own bags, I tried all kinds of opt9insk including that gizmo they sold on television that they said could be inserted in every bag. The problem there… the thing got lost in the bottom of really big bags and didn’t fit in the smaller ones.

For me, zippers and snaps on purses are more trouble than they’re worth. Instead, I use hook and loop tape because it can be opened and closed easily and quickly with just one hand. My bags are made with machine washable faux leather, faux suede or machine washable upholstery fabric. The linings and nearly all of the inside elements and embellishments are machine washable as well. A little known secret is that even faux leather and suede are machine washable. This means that every single bag I make – regardless of how delicate or fancy it may look – can be tossed into the washing machine. With the exception of my faux leather and suede bags, they can all go into the dryer as well. How about that for easy care?

There are a few exceptions, however. I recommend hand washing for bags that are embellished with fancy decorative doodads, wooden beads or shells. If you must wash them in the machine, be sure to use the delicate or hand wash cycle and protect them from cracking and breaking by covering them with protective button covers or some other form of covering to keep them safe, and do not put them in the dryer. My advice is to choose your embellishments carefully. You want to be able to show off your ingenuity and at the same time be able to enjoy your bags without having to be overly concerned that the elements you use to personalize them will stand up to normal use.

BASIC ENVELOPE PURSE

The secret to purse making is that there are just a few basic styles. The envelope purse happens to be my favorite because it can be made in any size and work great. In addition, the envelope flap can be decorated or embellished with a monogram giving your purse that real personal touch. I also prefer the envelope purse because the flap is also an excellent and speedy way to open and close your bag.

The envelope purse could be as small as a tiny evening clutch or a cosmetic bag or large enough to hold books, or a laptop and or anything in between. You can even add a strap for your shoulder or wrist.

You may have already read about my basic envelope purse pattern on Sewing Insight. It is the basis for several of the purses and bags inside this book. What you will find, however, is that each purse described in detail in Bags… Bags… and More Bags has its own distinct features and individual design details.

When it comes to the basic pattern pieces, they are all the same. The only difference is the size of the purse that would serve you best and any embellishments you may decide to add.

Fabric – cut one

Fabric – cut one

Lining and fusible interfacing – cut one

Fold line

Instructions:

Before you do anything, you must decide how large your want your envelope purse to be. The pattern above is for a basic square envelope purse. You can make it as wide and as deep as you like. Once your decision is made, measure your fabric and remember to add seam allowances all around.

Fold line

1. Fuse the lining and interfacing. 2. Sew one short edge of the lining fabric to the edge of the fabric triangle that

will be on the fold line. 3. Sew the sides of the fabric triangle together – right sides facing each other.

Trim the edges, turn the envelope flap and press. Topstitch if desired. 4. Sew the side seams of the lining to the fabric wrong sides together, leaving the

bottom edge – the edge open. 5. Turn the open edges in and topstitch to close. Press. 6. Fold the fabric at the fold line with the right sides of facing and Sew or serge

the purse sides. 7. Trim the edges and overcast if necessary, turn and press. Topstitch if desired.

NOTE: Add dimension to your envelope purse with piping or cording along all of the outside edges.

When it comes to closures, you can use a button, snap or our personal favorite – hook and loop tape – also known simply by its brand name… Velcro. Magnets are also functional closing devices, but they could pose a major problem with credit cards and super sensitive electronic devices. For this reason, I recommend that you avoid using magnets unless you are certain your contents will always be protected.

I recently repurposed an old drape with thick backing to block sunlight to make a set of three envelope bags that I use when traveling, two of them are 4” x 6”. I use one of them for my makeup brushes and the other one for my makeup. The third purse is 9” x 12”. I use this one for my toiletries – soap, comb, brush, body lotion, deodorant, cleansing cream and facial moisturizer.

Since my fabric had this great backing, it was not necessary for me to use a linin for these bags. I cut and sewed my purses according to the instruction outlined above. Since there was no lining, I opted to use my serger to finish the edges along the front and the flap and then attached small snaps to close my bags.

To make large envelope purses and bags more functional, add a shoulder a strap and give them additional capacity by including a strip of fabric to the bottom and sides. To form the bottom of your envelope purse or bag:

1. Cut two strips of fabric four to six inches wide. 2. Gage the length according to the side and bottom measurements of our bag. 3. Fuse interfacing to both pieces of fabric. 4. Sew them together wrong sides together, leaving both ends open.

Your shoulder strap can be cut to your desired specifications. If you wish, they could be the same length and width as the strips used in the bag bottom. The only difference between the preparation of the strap and the bottom is in step number 4.

For the shoulder strap, sew the strips together with the right sides together, trim, turn and topstitch.

Your pattern pieces will look like this:

Fabric Lining and interfacing cut 2 of each

Fold line 2 1 4 3 Strap and bottom - cut 4 fabric and 2 interfacing

5

Assemble the purse according as follows:

1. Fuse the interfacing to pattern pieces 4 and 5. 2. Sew pattern pieces 1 and 2 together with right sides facing. 3. Sew one edge of pattern piece 4 to the open edge of piece 1 – right sides facing 4. Trim the edges, turn, press and topstitch. 5. Sew the sides of pattern pieces number 4 to pattern pieces 1 and 3 – wrong

sides facing. 6. Pin the bottom strip to the edges of pieces and 3-4 – right sides facing.

7. Sew or serge the seams. Trim the edges and overcast if necessary. Topstitch if desired.

8. Fold in the edges of the sides and front opening 5/8 of an inch and press all around.

9. Attach the shoulder straps by inserting the ends into the open ends of the side strips.

10. Topstitch all around from one side to the other. Reinforce the stitching at the points where the straps are inserted by going over the stitches several times.

OPTIONS:

The method described is the quick way to make an envelope purse.

Add pockets by cutting one or two additional lining pieces – the same width and ½ the height of pattern piece #4. Turn the top edge approximately ¾ inch, press and topstitch. Attach the pocket bag to the bottom edge of the lining with the wrong side of the pocket bag facing the right side of the lining. Topstitch as many pockets as you like, setting the pocket width to your own specifications. For deeper bags, add the pockets to the top of the bag instead of to the bottom.

Assemble the shell and lining separately and then attach the lining to the purse shell.

Personalize your envelope purse by adding a monogram, tassels, buttons, shells, beads, buttons or semi-precious stones. You could even add photo of your pet or grandchild under a piece of clear vinyl and frame it with your favorite fabric or leather trim.

ENVELOPE PURSE WITH AN ADJUSTABLE STRAP

I love leather and suede, but living in south Florida makes it impossible to wear the real thing more than once a year if at all. As a compromise, I set aside my penchant for the genuine suede and leather and sought out some real good quality faux suede and leather. For a very long time, I used Donna Salyers, but alas, they stopped carrying the superior quality faux leather that I had fallen in love with back in the 1990s.

When I found some great faux leather at Cynthia’s Fine Fabrics in Tamarac, Florida a few years ago, I jumped at the opportunity to add to my pleather wardrobe. I snapped up several yards of some great black faux grain leather and made a pants suit that turns heads every time I put it on. I put the largest scraps away to use at a later date. There was about a yard and a half left, but it was only about 20 or 30 inches wide. At the time, I had no idea what I would do with it, but I knew that it would eventually tell me what it wanted to be.

One day, I decided to dig it out to make a purse. Well, it had been tucked away in a drawer for more than two years. I wasn’t expecting it to have a permanent faded crease down the center, but that’s exactly what I found. My very first challenge was to decide whether to go ahead and make the large purse I had imagined, cut it down to a smaller size, put a seam down the center or somehow camouflage the crease. I opted to cover the crease with a piece of black and silver braid and move forward with my original design.

The medium weight cotton fabric used for the lining of this purse was substantial enough that it was not necessary to use interfacing to give it extra support.

INSTRUCTIONS

Cut

The first thing to do is to use the same proportions described above, starting with two large rectangles 33” x 18” – one fabric and one lining.

Then cut notches in both pieces at the fold points and six inches from one the edge of short end. This is what will eventually be the front of the purse and the point where the exterior pocket will be attached.

Next taper the other short end to form the envelope flap. Trim the starting point approximately ½ inch to

accommodate the shoulder strap. To guarantee that the tapers were identical on both the shell and the lining, fold the two pieces in half, then pin them together before starting to cut your tapers.

Cut three rectangles 33 x 18 – one fabric and two lining for your pockets. I made two roomy pockets for the outside to hold those things I use most frequently, specifically my keys and telephone and a total of eight pockets inside the bag to hold sunglasses, reading glasses, wallet, pens, checkbook and other essentials that you may carry on a regular basis and need to get to in a hurry.

The final piece to be cut is the shoulder strap. This particular purse can be used as a simple shoulder bag or as a holster purse if you prefer to carry it across your body. Cut two pieces of fabric 24” x 6” each lengthwise on the grain.

Sew

• EDITOR’S NOTE: Because it was necessary for me to cover the flaw in my fabric, the very first thing I did was attach the braid mentioned above to the center of the shell, running it from the tip of the flap edge to ¾” inch above the point where the outside pocket would be attached.

• Start with the strap. Sew the two short ends together, right sides facing each other and fold the long sides inward until they meet. Then fold the entire thing in half lengthwise and topstitch on both long sides. What you end up with is something that looks like a supersized piece of bias tape, but this is cut on the grain. Now that your strap is done, set it aside.

Inside pockets –

• Fold down the pocket tops and topstitch.

• Align the pocket bottoms with the fold notches at the bottom of the bag lining.

• Attach the pockets to the lining and topstitch to form as many pockets as you think you will need. I made four pockets on each side, giving this purse a total of eight inside pockets. After the pockets were attached to the lining, I serged all the edges to prevent fraying. I did not serge the part of the lining that would eventually be part of the envelope flap because it would have created too much bulk in the seam allowance when the flap was finished.

Outside pocket –

• Fold the pocket top down and topstitch. • Sew the pocket bottom to the outer shell

at the notches with right sides facing each other. Turn the pocket up into position and topstitch, first along the bottom and then the sides, sewing from bottom to top.

• Finish by adding topstitch lines to define your pockets. I divided mine into two large pockets. You have the option here of making more if it suits you.

You Are Now Ready to Put It Together.

• Fold the shell at the bottom notch right sides facing each other and sew the sides of the shell.

• Use a 1/4” seam allowance to attach the strap to the outside of shell. To be certain your purse flap works properly, center your strap on the seam allowance before sewing.

• Fold the lining at the bottom notch right sides together and sew the side seams.

• Sew the lining to the shell along the envelope flap right sides facing each other.

• Serge the seam allowance inside the flap or trim along the edge and use an overcast stitch to lock the raw edges.

• With the strap on the outside, turn the fabric in 5/8” along the inside top edge and sides and topstitch.

• Attach ¾” buttons to the outside of the strap just above the point where it is connected to the purse. Sew a buttonhole 6” above each button. I chose to sew the buttons and buttonholes this way so the excess strap would be inside the purse when I am not using its full length. An option is to fold the strap ends on the outside and use decorative jeans snaps instead.

• Add any other embellishment or decoration you prefer. I found a vintage filigree earring that turned out to be the perfect finishing touch for my purse.

When I took a second look, I realized that my brand new bag was also a perfect match for one of my favorite pairs of shoes.

SMALL SHOULDER PURSE

It is possible that you saw this one on Sewing Insight. When I uploaded the story of this particular purse, I talked about how I merely draw markings onto fabric and cut when working on one of a kind items. The new twist here is I actually drafted a pattern for you and included it here in case you want a bag just like it.

Getting Started

When I create patterns to make one of a kind items like this, I often draw my pattern lines directly onto the reverse side of the fabric with a marking pen, grease pencil or a piece of chalk.

For this book, however, I drafted a pattern based upon the measurements and details described in the piece that appeared on the internet. The pattern for this purse can be found on the following pages. Tape the pattern pages together as shown below before attempting to pin it to your fabric.

You will need:

Fabric: 1 yard

Lining: 1 yard

Interfacing: ½ yard

Hook & loop tape

1 pair of D rings

1 large button

1 2

3 4

5

Flap – Cut 2 fabric

D Ring connector – cut 2 fabric

Small Shoulder Bag #

1

Grainline

Grainline

Small Shoulder

Bag #2

Small

Shoulder Bag #

3

Front – Back – Inside Pockets

Cut 2 fabric.4 lining/ 2 interfacing


4

Bottom and sides – Cut 1 fabric /1 lining/1 interfacing


5

Strap – Cut 1 fabric

Fold

Cut

Follow the cutting instructions as describe on the individual pattern pieces.

Press

Take a few minutes to fuse or sew your interfacing to the lining pieces. Then turn the tops of your pocket pieces ¾” and press. In order to maintain the integrity of the pockets, attach two inches of fusible interfacing to the pocket tops. Fold one pocket piece one inch and then fold the other piece over one inch at the top twice. This will ultimately result in two sets of pockets with two different depths… shallow pockets for smaller items and deep pockets for items that require more depth to hold them securely in your purse.

Time to Sew

If you follow these directions, you can have a great looking purse that is as practical as it is stylish in less than an hour.

For this particular bag, I chose to use a sewing machine for the entire project. If the shell were another type of fabric, it is likely I would have assembled it on the serger and used the sewing machine for topstitching only.

Lining

• The first things to take to the sewing machine are the pocket pieces. They have already been pressed. The only thing left to do at this point is to topstitch.

• Attach the pockets to the front and back lining pieces • Determine the width of your pockets based upon the sizes of your wallet and

the other things you need to keep close at hand on a regular basis. Depending upon the final sizes of your pockets, you may be able to get as many as three or four on each side. I ended up with three pockets on one side and four on the other.

• Use a double needle to sew pocket separation. As an option, you can use a zigzag stitch or satin stitch to replace the double row of stitches. This, along with fusing interfacing to the reverse side of the lining front and back helps maintain the integrity of your pockets and reduce the likelihood of their ripping during use.

• Sew the bottom/sides lining strip to the sides and bottoms of the front and back lining pieces.

• Trim your seams to ¼ inch and use an overcast stitch to

finish them off.

Shell

• Join the side/bottom pieces with the right sides facing. • Sew the front and back pieces to the side/bottom fabric piece with the right

sides facing. Before you start, clip the side/bottom piece at the points where your front/back corners join so that your bag will have 90o angles, not curves at the corners. Sew the flap pieces together with the rights sides facing.

• Trim the seams to ¼ inch • Turn, finger press and topstitch. • Attach the purse flap to the right side of the back

of the shell. • Mark the placement of the button and hook

and loop tape on the flap and the purse front with chalk, marking pen or a grease pencil.

• Sew one piece of the hook and loop tape to the inside flap.

• Sew the other piece of hook and loop tape to the outside of the purse front.

Putting it All Together

• Sew the lining to the front of the shell – right sides facing.

• Turn the lining inside the shell. • Tuck the lining 5/8” in along the back of the

shell and top stitch with the flap on the outside.

Finishing Touches

I put off making a decision about the type of strap I would add to my new purse. It seems to me that purses with straps attached to D-rings can carry more weight. Once that decision was finally made, I clipped the extended ends of the purse shell and lining.

• Sew the strap pieces together on one long end – right sides facing.

• Turn the strap wrong sides facing each other. Topstitch ¼” in from the seam line. Turn the open lengthwise edges in 5/8” and topstitch again.

• Form triangle shaped points at the ends of your strap by tucking the ends under to form points and topstitch

• Follow the method used to sew the shoulder strap to make the D-ring attachments.

• Slip the D-Rings onto the short straps and fold it in half.

• Insert both ends of the D-ring connectors into the open sides of the purse between the shell and the lining, leaving

approximately ½ inch out.. Attach the D-ring to the purse by topstitching at the same level as the topstitched seam that used to attach the lining to the back of the shell.

• Anchor the D-ring connectors by sewing a rectangle though the lining, D-ring attachment and outer shell.

• Insert the ends of the shoulder strap through the D-rings with the ends facing the purse. Attach the strap by turning the ends approximately one inch and sewing a 1 x ½” rectangle to anchor the strap securely.

• Finish the purse by topstitch along the front of the purse, extending the same topstitching at the ends and back.

• Attach the button by hand and you’re done.

BUCKET BAG

Back in the 1980s and 90s, I was a huge fan of Shirley Adams’ Sewing Connection, a program that aired on PBS for many years. Not only did I watch her television program regularly, I also made every effort to attend her workshops and seminars whenever she was in the vicinity. At one such event, she demonstrated her collection of handbags. I purchased her bucket bag pattern, and promptly put it away. Eventually, I pulled it out and made my own version of her bucket bag with flap.

I made mine with gold colored faux suede and added pockets inside to make finding things a lot easier. I also added my own personal touches to the outside… a huge wooden button and three tassels with large wooden buttons attached to the ends. With all that weight at the end of the flap, there was no need for my trademark hook and loop tape closure. You can find my review of my old Shirley Adams Bucket Bag pattern on Pattern Review - http://sewing.patternreview.com/patterns/59893.

This bucket bag is different from the envelope bags described earlier in this chapter because it has an oval shaped bottom which gives purses that ‘bucket’ look. I visited Shirley Adams’ website… http://www.sewingconnection.com/series09.html. Although the bucket bag is mentioned on the site, the link to the program where she describes this bag is no longer active. In order to respect the original copyright and to eliminate the possibility of infringing on any copyright laws, I have made pretty much changed the pattern altogether. What follow is a pattern that is quite different from the original Shirley Adams Bucket Bag pattern. However, the end result is much the same as the bag pictured here.

This is one pattern that you do not have to tape together. There are only five pattern pieces and the instructions are very easy to follow

You will need:

• 1 ½ yard fabric • 1 ½ yard lining • 1 yard interfacing (optional – you will only need to use interfacing if the lining

you choose is delicate or can be easily torn. • Optional wooden button and beads*

*You may choose to embellish your bag with something else or you may decide to not embellish it at all. That’s the beautiful thing about sewing your own creations.

http://sewing.patternreview.com/patterns/59893

Front and back –Cut 8 on fold

2 fabric – 4 lining (2 will be used for pockets) – 2 interfacing

Bucket Bag #1

Fold

Flap – Cut 2 fabric

Option: cut 1 fabric/1 lining

Fold

Bucket Bag #2

Fold

Bottom – Cut 1 fabric/1 lining/1 interfacing

Bucket Bag #3

Shoulder strap – Cut 1 fabric

Bucket Bag #4

Fold

INSTRUCTIONS:

Cut all of the pattern pieces as instructed

Before you start to sew:

Turn the pocket tops 1 ½” and press into place

Fuse or sew optional interfacing to lining pieces.

Time to Sew

Sew the pockets to the front and back lining pieces (right sides of both pieces facing you).

Determine the sizes of your pockets and topstitch each one using a double needle [if our machine is not capable of using a double needle, sew a double row of stitches, wide zigzag stitches or a satin stitch].

Sew your front and back lining pieces together and attach the bottom lining piece.

Repeat the above step with the outer fabric.

If you choose to attach beads to your purse like the one pictured at the beginning of this section, make a strip of bias tape with your fabric approximately 15 inches in length. Cut the bias strip into three pieces of varying lengths.

Sew one end of the strips together. Sew the two flap pieces together with the right sides facing each other and the bias strips inside the center point of the flap.

Trim the seam allowance and turn the flap right sides out.

Attach the flap to the center of the back of the shell using a ¼” seam allowance.

Fold the long ends of the strap in to the middle then fold in half and topstitch lengthwise in both sides.

Sew the ends of the strap to the side seam allowance of the shell using a ½” seam allowance.

Sew the lining to the shell, starting at right sides together leaving 6 inches open on the front.

Turn the lining inside the purse and close the by topstitching the remaining six inches.

Attach any embellishments you choose to personalize your bucket bag.

ROUND PURSE

The Hobo Bag is one of the most popular purse styles around. It has been around for so long because it is great for carrying just about everything you can imagine. The problem lots of women have discovered with having a hobo bag, though is that you carry so much you eventually develop back, neck and shoulder aches and pains from carrying around such a heavy load.

The biggest problem with a hobo bag, however is also the greatest asset… the cavity is so spacious that things get lost… sometimes for up to a year. This Round Purse is unique for two reasons. First of all, it is a smaller version of the hobo bag and that it has not one but two tiers or pockets. It’s great for those things that you don’t want to put into checked luggage or need to have close at hand.

The bag I made with this pattern is about half the size of a traditional hobo bag. It has a shell made with multi colored heavy weight upholstery fabric and light weight upholstery fabric for the lining and inside pockets. To give the lining extra strength, I put interfacing in the lining pieces. I use the upper pockets for my telephone and keys. The lower pockets are used for my wallet, cosmetics, reading glasses, sun glasses, pens, and anything else I think I may need to get my hands on quickly. The inside cavity is for books, magazines and small parcels when I take my round purse to the mall. The more I use it, the more I like it.

It also matches a weekend carry-on bag that I made for weekend trips to the Keys and other quick trips. The details and instructions for making that bag can be found in Chapter 3. I like it so much, drafted this pattern just in case I want to make another one.

Round Purse #1

Cut Here

Round Purse #2

Round Purse #3

Hook and loop tape

Attach upper pocket here

Cut lining and interfacing here.

Round Purse #4

CUT 2 FABRIC + 2 LINING

Cut lining and interfacing here

Round Purse #5

Round Purse #6

Round Purse #7

Upper Pocket

Cut 2 lining

+ 2 interfacing

(optional)

Round P

urse #

8

LO

WE

R P

OCK

ET

CUT

TW

O L

ININ

G +

2 INT

ER

FA

CING

Round P

urse #9

MAKING YOUR OWN ROUND PURSE

Before you begin, remove the round purse pattern pages from this book and lay them out as follows:

1 2

3 4

5 6

7

8 9

After the pattern pieces are assembled, use tape to hold the pieces in place and pin the pattern to your fabric, lining and interfacing as instructed and cut out all of the pattern pieces for your bag.

Start by fusing the interfacing to the lining and pocket pieces if you are using it. Then turn the top edges of all your pockets ¾” toward the inside and topstitch.

The next step is to attach the hook and loop tape pocket pieces to the lining. Before attaching the upper pocket, turn and press the three remaining edges of your upper pockets and attach them to the lining where indicated on the pattern.

Next, attach the lower pockets to the bottom of the lining pieces and sew the pockets at the stitch line points. Here you have the option of following the stitch lines on the pattern or creating your own customized pockets to suit your own personal needs and preferences.

The next step is to sew the lining right sides together leaving six inches open at the bottom. You will close this after the shell is attached to the lining.

Then sew the two shell pieces together with the right sides facing – leaving the center open to attach the lining. Attach the lining to the shell at the bag opening.

After the lining and shell are sewn together, turn the lining right side out and close the bottom seam of the lining.

Tuck the ends of the lining that meet with the strap inside and topstitch.

The final step is to turn the ends of the strap inside to the center, slightly overlapping and topstitch both sides around the opening of your purse.

SHOPPING BAG

With the growing trend toward using reusable bags when shopping, there is no wonder that the old fashioned ‘tote’ bag is making a huge comeback. One thing I’ve noticed, however, is the shopping bags sold in grocery stores and other outlets are usually made of a rather flimsy material that rips after only a few uses. These bags, though relatively inexpensive, simply are not made to last. Although they may cost less than a dollar a piece, that can add up over time, especially if you use them when shopping for groceries for a large family. Making a durable, long lasting shopping bag is quite simple. It is also economical. For the price of less than a yard of fabric, you can have a customized shopping bag that will last several years.

This shopping bag is more than just a bag for bring home the groceries… it is also a purse. It has an inside pouch to hold wallet, glasses and keys as well as hook and loop tape to keep it neatly folded until you are ready to stow away your goodies. This bag is not only good for going to the grocery store, you can also use it on those mall forays. Rather than be burdened with trying to keep up with a purse and several small to medium size bags from different stores, you can put them all in this convenient sack. Folded up, it’s a purse. As you shop, it opens up to hold your purchases all along the way.

You have the option of making every single bag with a built in purse or just one, and make the rest of your collection without the added pouch.

All you need is two yards of fabric for the shell; the same amount of fabric for the lining if you do not use a fabric like canvas, twill or denim, ½ yard of snap tape and a little bit of hook and loop tape or two ¾” snaps. Lining your shopping bag is an option that you can skip depending upon the type of fabric you choose for your shell. For instance, if you decide to make your shopping bag with medium to heavy weight denim or upholstery fabric, a lining is really not necessary.

INSTRUCTIONS:

CUT

I suggest making this bag with a fabric that is sturdy, like canvas, twill or denim. A sturdy batik or cotton would also do well.

The bag that I made is unlined. If you decide you want to line yours, you have that option. What follows are instructions for making a shopping bag with or without a lining.

For a lined shopping bag, cut:

• 2 for the bottom: 10” x 18” (1 fabric/1 lining) • 4 for the front and back: 25” x 18” (2 fabric/2 lining)

• 4 for the sides: 25” x 10” (2 fabric/2 lining) • 4 for the inside pouch: 12” x 10” (2 fabric/2 lining) • 2 for the straps: 25” x 6” (fabric only) • Notch the tops of the bag front and back approximately 4 inches from each

edge. • Cut a second set of notches approximately 6 inches from each edge.

NOTE: ALL PIECES ARE CUT LENGTHWISE ON THE GRAIN. If your bag is unlined, simply follow the above cutting directions for the fabric only.

SEW

• Start by serging the edges of the strap pieces. • Fold the straps in half lengthwise. Fold them

one more time, forming what has the

appearance of being a piece of bias tape. Topstitch both sides and set aside.

• Assemble the pouch by first turning one inch down on the long edge of piece side and topstitching. Then sew the two pieces together with the right sides facing. Attach hook and loop tape 1 ½” below the raw edge on the inside of the pouch. The other side should be on part that is topstitched. Serge or use an overcast stitch to seal the raw edges.

• Sew the female end of the snap tape to the bottom of the bag 1 ½ inch in from one long edge on the right side of the fabric. Sew the male side of the snap tape to the top of the bag front 1 ½ inch from the top.

• Attach the front, back and sides to the bottom of the bag. Use the same procedure to assemble the lining if one is used. NOTE: The bottom edge with the snap tape must be attached to the piece of the bag body that does NOT have snap tape attached. Make sure the snap tape is on the opposite side. In other words, the snap tape on the bottom should be toward the back of the bag.

• Attach the straps to the outside front and back of the bag at the second set of notches (6 inches from the edges) using a ¼” seam allowance.

• Attach the raw edge of the pouch to the top of one side of the bag using a ¼” seam allowance at the first set of notches (4 inches from the edges).

• Turn the top edges in 1 inch. Press and topstitch.

• Attach snaps or hook and loop tape to the top inside corners of the bag.

When your start your shopping spree, fold your shopping bag up so the snaps are facing each other and close the hook and loop tape at the top. Use the snaps to hold the bottom in place until you are ready to stash your merchandise while making your way through the mall.

CARRY-ON BAG

How many times have you been walking through the airport when the clamp on a shoulder strap malfunctioned and your bag fell to the floor? All of the shoulder and hand straps on this bag are securely sewn on, so you will never have to worry about that embarrassment.

This carry-on bag has a pair of hand straps as well as an extra-long strap which allows you to carry it across your body, leaving your hands free and eliminating the chance of it falling off your shoulder. Of course, if you prefer carrying it on your shoulder, you have that option as well. If you decide you would rather use the hand straps or check your bag and go through the airport unencumbered, you can

simply tuck the shoulder strap inside a convenient side pocket. That way it is out of your way and safe and securely tucked away from clumsy handlers. When you are ready for it, the strap easily slips out for you to carry comfortably leaving your hands free.

There are exterior pockets for magazines, books, boarding passes, identification, and other items you might need to get to in a hurry while in the airport … like that quart size plastic bag containing your toothpaste and those three ounce bottles of liquids. There are also inside pockets for your shoes and other items that you may want to keep separate from everything else.

Making your very own carryon bag is easy enough for any beginner to achieve. All it takes is a pair of scissors, a tape measure or ruler, a marking pen, and the ability to cut out a bunch of rectangles. By making your own carry-on bag, you have the luxury of making the pockets on the inside and outside of your bag as wide or as narrow as you need them to be. For instance, if you need a lot of small pockets on the inside to hold your electronic accessories, you can have them. If, however, you like to travel with lots of shoes, you can make those interior pockets large enough to hold up to six or eight pairs of shoes. The great thing about this is not only are your shoes safely tucked away, you still have lots and lots of space inside for your clothes. The same is true for the outside pockets. While the pockets on the sides of this bag are large, they can easily be divided, creating smaller pockets if you prefer them.

A word of caution… I used heavy weight upholstery fabric for this bag. Sewing just two layers of this very thick fabric is not a challenge for most sewing machines. However, when sewing multiple layers – which you must do when attaching handles, attaching the zipper and the like – you will need a machine that is capable of sewing through several thick heavy layers without snagging or breaking your needle. My bag was sewn on an industrial sewing machine. When I attempted serging the raw edges on the inside, my serger could not handle the job. As a result, I finished the inside by trimming the edges and finishing them on the industrial machine with a simple zigzag stitch. If you do not have a sewing machine that can handle very heavy fabric, or if your machine cannot handle very thick layers of fabric, choose a lighter fabric for this one.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAKING YOUR CARRY-ON BAG

You will need:

• 2 yards of 60” heavy weight denim, twill, canvas or upholstery fabric (optional choices include suede, leather and vinyl)

• 2 ¼ yards of lining • One 24” heavy metal or plastic zipper • 1 yard interfacing

CUT (all pieces are cut on the straight grain)

• Six 13” squares for the sides (2 fabric, 2 lining and 2 interfacing) • Six rectangles 13” x 24” for the front and back (2 fabric, 2 lining and 2

interfacing) • Six rectangles 6” x 24” for the top (2 fabric, 2 lining and 2 interfacing) • Six rectangles 10” x 13” for optional interior and exterior side pockets (2

fabric, 2 lining and 2 interfacing) • Two rectangles 10” x 24” for additional optional exterior pockets (fabric only)

NOTE: The bag described below only has exterior pockets on the ends. These pieces are for bags with exterior pockets on all four sides.

• Four rectangles 10” x 24” for interior pockets (lining and interfacing) • One rectangle 10” x 48” for shoulder/body strap (fabric only) • Two rectangles 6” x 18” for handle straps (fabric only)

BEFORE YOU START TO SEW… fuse your interfacing to all of the lining pieces. Decide how wide or narrow you want your pockets to be and whether you want them on the inside only or both inside and outside. Set the placement of your hand straps by placing two notches on the top of the exterior front and back pieces approximately three inches on each side of the center point.

SEW

• Turn the tops of all your pocket pieces down one inch and topstitch. • Attach the pocket pieces to the interior

and exterior pieces of your bag. TIP: You might want to add a small buttonhole to the top of one of your exterior pockets. It will come in handy if you ever decide you want to attach a luggage tag.

• Sew a double row of stitches along all of your pocket lines. Be sure to reinforce them at the top.

• Put the shell together by first sewing the bottom to the front, back and sides. • Attach the hand straps at the notches on the outside of the bag front and

back. • Fold the shoulder/body strap in half, turn the edges in and topstitch.

OPTION: You can give your strap additional strength by sewing several rows of topstitching rather than just one or two rows.

• Attach the shoulder/body strap to the outside of the sides of the bag. • Put the lining together, leaving the top open. • Sew the zipper to the two top pieces of fabric and the lining pieces by placing

the zipper between one piece of fabric and one piece of fabric and stitching along the outer edge, then repeating the process for the other side of the zipper. TIP: Make sure the zipper is facing the fabric when performing this step. To give your zipper added security, topstitch after the zipper is sewn in. This gives you two rows of stitches along your zipper, reducing the likelihood of it

accidentally ripping out. • Attach the top to rest of the shell. • Insert the lining and finish the inside edges

along the top with an overcast stitch or on a serger.

You can embellish your bag any way you want to. I choose a gold kitty cat applique. How would you personalize your one of a kind carry-on bag?

I love this bag. It holds everything I need for a weekend trip easily and neatly. If I pack carefully, I can even use it for a longer trip. Best of all, it matches my round purse. What a great head turner!!! You should see the looks I get at airports and train stations.

CONCLUSION

You can find lots and lots of bags out there with pockets. People have come to realize the bags without pockets are not only impractical, they are downright impossible to use. The beautiful thing about making these bags is that you have an over-abundance of pockets – even to help you keep things organized when you are shopping or traveling.

Every bag in this book has been designed to be fashionable, functional and practical. In addition, they are all easy to make. There isn’t a single bag in this book that you cannot make in just one afternoon. You might even be able to make a few of the most-simple bags in one sitting. The envelope purses are great for formal occasions when made of velvet or satin or embroidered and embellished with beads and rhinestones.

The shoulder bags are great for everyday use, going to work or an evening of dining and dancing. The shopping bag cannot be beat when it comes to organizing your coupons

and shopping list while keeping your wallet and credit cards secure and keeping all your purchases in one place while you shop ‘til you drop.

The carry-on bag is awesome. No longer do you have to be concerned with keeping your shoes away from your clothes and packing your cosmetics and toiletries without being concerned with them tipping over and leaking. The pockets in the carry-on bag keep your shoes together and out completely out

of the way while leaving lots and lots of room in the center. Plus all of your cosmetics, toiletries and jewelry have their own pockets as well, leaving plenty of room for those great weekend outfits. And, when you’re traveling by air, the handy exterior pockets help take the stress out of getting through security because your ID and liquids are at your fingertips when it’s time to pull them out and slip quickly back into place.

The real beauty of each and every one these bags, however, is the fact that you can personalize them. I encourage you to use these patterns merely as a jumping off point and allow your imagination soar to heights unknown, making every single bag you sew your very own. Use these patterns to make yourself a wonderful wardrobe of purses and bags. Use them to make gifts for the people in your life.

Most of all, simply enjoy yourself and let those imagination juices flow freely as you create an entire wardrobe of one of a kind purses, cosmetics pouches, shopping bags and carry on luggage.

AN E-BOOK FROM - kxcdn.com · Anyone with basic sewing skills can make the purses and bags in this...

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