Mission Furniture

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Page 1 of 6DP-00161 ©Copyright Meredith Corporation 2001

Splined BoxA pretty fair number of ornamental box designs cross our desks, but

this is one of the nicest. It’s a simple project that doesn’t require a lot ofwork, but the end result is solid construction and a rich-looking face

with matching splines. The finished box is versatile enough to make afine gift for anyone—man, woman, or child.

TM

Page 2 of 6

1fi"

Á"

fi"

D

7"¤" groove ‹" deep‰" from bottom edge

fi" rabbet¤" deepF

DE

4fi"

fi" rabbet¤" deep

›"

4fi"

›"

Miteredcorners

›"2"

›"

‰"

4fi x 7" velvet

¤ x 3› x 5Œ" hardboard

EXPLODEDVIEW

‹" groove ‰" deep‹" from bottom edge

‹"

¤"

¨"

A

4fi"

Spline

Miteredcorners

B

A

7"

B

G

C

E

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Page 3 of 6

Part

Bill of Materials

Mat

l.

Qty

.

T W L

Finished Size

A*box ends fi" 1‡" 4fi" O 2

B*box sides fi" 1‡" 7" O 2

C bottom panel ‹" 3Œ" 6›" OP 1

D*lid ends fl" 1¤" 4fi" O 2

E* lid sides fl" 1¤" 7" O 2

F face panel fi" 2‡" 5‹" W 1

G liner panel ¤" 3›" 5Œ" H 1

*Initially cut part oversized. Please read allinstructions before cutting.MMaatteerriiaallss KKeeyy:: O–oak; OP–oak plywood;W–walnut; H–hardboard.SSuupppplliieess:: Oil finish, velvet, quick-set epoxy.

A B

‡ x 3fi x 24" Oak

A B

D E D E* * * *

****

* Plane or resaw to thicknesses listed in the Bill of Materials.

C

‹ x 3Œ x 6›" Oak plywood

CUTTING DIAGRAM

fi x 2‡ x 5‹" Walnut crotch

F *

1fi x 1fi x 6" Walnut(for splines)

G

‹ x 3› x 5Œ" Hardboard

F DE

¤"ˇ"

‰"

›"

¤"

›"

LID FRAME DETAIL

LID-CUTTING SEQUENCE

STEP 1

STEP 2

STEP 3

Auxiliarywood fence Fence

›"

›"

Dado set

F

fi"

¤"

Dado set

Fence

,

Auxiliarywood fence

D E

Tablesaw

fi"Fence

Tilt blade 6°.

D

E

Auxiliary wood fence

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Page 4 of 6

Power Tools Needed• tablesaw• planer or jointer• palm sander• stationary belt sander

Start with the basic box1 Plane one edge of a 3fi×24"piece of ‡"-thick stock on yourjointer. (We selected red oak.) Ripa 1‡"-wide strip from this edge,then plane or resaw it to fi" thick.2 To cut a groove for the bottompanel, first check the actual thick-ness of your ‹"-thick plywoodstock. If the stock measures exact-ly or slightly less than ‹" thick, fityour tablesaw with a ‹" dado setelevated to ‰". If the stock mea-sures closer to ‰", use your regu-lar ¤"-thick blade, and adjust yourfence slightly before making a sec-ond pass. Cut a full-length groove‹" from the edge of one face.3 Crosscut the box ends (A) andsides (B) to ¤" longer than thelengths listed in the Bill ofMaterials. (We cut our parts in A-B-A-B order so the grain wouldrun continuously around the box.)Next, tilt the blade to 45°. Checkthe angle using your combinationsquare, then miter-cut both ends ofeach part to finished length. (Weattached an extension to our mitergauge and clamped a stopblock toit to ensure accurate cuts.)4 From ‹"-thick oak plywood, cutthe bottom panel (C) to the dimen-sions listed on the Bill ofMaterials. Now, dry-assemble theends, sides, and bottom panel, andsand as necessary until everythingfits. Then, glue the two sides to oneend. Apply glue to the edges of thebottom panel, and slide it into itsgroove. Glue the other end in posi-tion, then clamp the box. Check forsquare, and allow the glue to dry.

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Page 5 of 6

Machine the lid and face panel next1 To make the lid ends (D) andsides (E), first rip a 1¤×24" stripfrom the same stock you had usedfor A and B. Next, cut a full-lengthgroove on one edge to receive theface panel. To do this, elevate yourtablesaw blade to ‹", set your ripfence ‰" from the blade, and usea pushstick.2 To bevel-cut the lid stock tothickness, first move your rip fenceto the side of the blade opposite itsdirection of tilt, then tilt the bladeto 6° from square. (See Step 1 ofthe Lid-Cutting Sequence drawing,on page 4.) Now, bevel-cut thestock using a pushstick.3 Next, cut a rabbet on the bottomface of your lid stock, whereshown in Step 2 of the Lid-Cutting Sequence. To do this, fityour tablesaw with a fl" dado setelevated to ¤". Set your rip fencefi" from the blade, and attach anotched, ‡"-thick wooden auxil-iary fence at least 24" long. Setthe fence, where shown in thedrawing, and rabbet the bottomface of your lid stock along theoutside edge. 4 Crosscut the lid ends (D) andsides (E) as you did the corre-sponding box parts, cutting them inD-E-D-E order to finished lengthplus ¤". Then, elevate your table-saw blade to 1‡", and tilt it to 45°,again checking the angle. Usingyour miter gauge, extension, andstopblock, stand the ends and sideson edge, and proceed to miter-cutthem to finished length.5 Next, rip and crosscut the facepanel (F) to size from fi"-thickstock. (We chose an ornatelygrained piece of walnut crotch.See our Buying Guide for a mail-order source.) To rabbet the sides,fit your tablesaw with a fi" dadoset elevated to cut ›" deep, asshown in Step 3 of the Lid-Cutting Sequence. Then, adjustthe notch depth on your woodenauxiliary fence, and cut the rab-

Auxiliary wood fence

45° bevel

45° bevel

#8 x 1‹" F.H.wood screw

Mitergauge

#6 x 1" F.H. wood screw

fi"‡"

1Î"

Saw blade

Elevate blade tocut fi"-deep groove(allowing for jigthickness).

Clamp stopblock at ¨", 1‰", and1Œ" beyond bladeto cut grooves.

Position boxwith bottom

butted againststopblock.

CUTTING THE SPLINE GROVES

JIG

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Page 6 of 6

bet. Go ahead now and sand theface panel smooth.6 Dry-assemble the lid ends andsides around the face panel, andadjust the fit as necessary. Next,glue and clamp the lid at the cor-ners, allowing the face panel tofloat without glue.

Build our simple jig, then add corner splines1 To cut the spline grooves, firstbuild the jig shown on page 5 inthe Jig drawing. To do this, cut two3fi×12" pieces of ‡"-thick scrapstock. Tilt your tablesaw blade to45°, and bevel-rip one edge of eachpiece. Glue and screw the twopieces, where shown in the draw-ing, then remove the screws afterthe glue has dried. Position andscrew the jig to your miter-gaugeextension so that it extends 4"beyond the blade path.2 Sand the top edges of the boxuntil they’re smooth and level.Then, place the lid on the box, andsand the lid flush with the boxsides. (We used a stationary beltsander for both operations.) 3 Elevate your blade enough tocut fi" above the inside corner ofthe jig. (We tested our depth ofcut using scrap stock.) Next, mea-sure ¨" beyond the kerf in thejig, and clamp on a stopblock atthis point. Secure the lid to thebox using masking tape, and placethe box in the jig, as shown onpage 5. Cut a groove in the boxcorner, then rotate the box togroove all four corners. 4 Reclamp the stopblock 1Å"beyond the kerf, and again grooveall four corners. To groove the lid,reset the stopblock at 1Œ" beyondthe kerf. (This should center thecut on the edge of the lid.)5 Resaw your walnut spline stockto a rough thickness of ‡". (Weused a pushstick.) Then, rip sever-al ¤"-thick strips from the edge,and crosscut twelve 2"-longsplines. Glue the splines into thegrooves, and allow the glue to dry.Then, sand the splines flush with

the lid and box sides. (We used ourstationary belt sander.)

Finish the box, and spruce up the inside1 Finish-sand the box and lid(including the interior) using 120-then 180-grit sandpaper. Next,apply your choice of finish. (Webrushed on two coats of WatcoNatural Danish Oil Finish. Afterallowing each coat to penetratefor 30 minutes, we rubbed it with0000 synthetic steel wool beforewiping off the excess. We let thefinish dry overnight, then rubbedit out with a clean cotton cloth toachieve a luster.)2 Finally, cut and upholster theliner panel (G). To do this, mea-sure the interior dimensions of thebox, and cut a piece of ¤"-thickhardboard that is „" smaller inboth width and length. (Ours mea-sured 3›×5Œ".) Cover one facewith a 4fi×7" piece of burgundyvelvet, then epoxy and clamp theedges to the back face. (We usedquick-set epoxy.) When the epoxyhas cured, epoxy and clamp theliner into the bottom of the box.¿

Buying GuideFace Panel and SplineStock. Includes fi×3×5fi"fancy walnut-crotch facepanel and 1fi×1fi×6" splinestock. Stock no. WWP1,Johnson Wood Products,34897 Crystal Rd.,Strawberry Point, IA 52076.Phone 563-933-6504 forcurrent prices.

The purchase of these plans does not transferany copyright or other ownership interest in theplans, the design, or the finished project to thebuyer. Buyer may neither reproduce the plansfor sale nor offer for sale any copies of the fin-ished project.

Produced by Marlen KemmetProject Design: Todd Anderson,Shakopee, Minn.Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine; Carson OdeGraphic Design: Jamie DowningPhotograph: King Au©Copyright Meredith Corporation 2001

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