S H O C H UTHE HISTORY, DIVERSITY AND TASTING OF JAPAN’S UNIQUE SPIRIT

July 20, 2016

Brian Matthys Jesse Falowitz Toshio Ueno Masahiro Takeda

“The head priest here is such a tightwad! He didn’t give us shochu even once. What a nuisance”

- “2nd Year of Eiroku. Sakujiro and Suketaro Tsuruta”1559

HISTORY• 1559 reference in Japanese (2 carpenters)• Portuguese trader Jorge Alvares makes reference

to locals drinking “arrack made from rice” in the mid 1540s

• Records kept by Korea’s Joseon Dynasty state that Okinawans were distilling by 1477

Japan

N 50°

N 30°

S 30°

Equator

S 50°

Latitude of Japan: N 33 ~ 43°

Japan on the World Map

Japan & its Region

Prefecture: 47

Latitude: 33~ 43°N

Ave. Temp:

Jan 43 F: Sep 74F

Land:145,883sq mi

Rains: 57.7 inch /yr

Tokyo

Shochu Breweries: 475 ( in 2005)

Kyushu: 271 Okinawa: 46 Chubu: 37 Kanto: 35 Chugoku: 34

BIG IN JAPAN• Bigger than sake since 2003. • Preferred by younger generation.• Drinking trend amongst Men and Women.• An Izakaya (Gastropub) favorite.

SATSUMA-YA, TOKYO

LIKE, REALLY BIG IN JAPAN• > 3X all the tequila produced in Mexico (2011)• Kyushu Island [Birthplace of shochu] 1/2 the size of Scotland.• < 500 disti l leries in Japan.• > 5000 brands of shochu in Japan.

THE SHOCHU BOOM• 500 year old spirit. 2000’S renaissance.• Premiumization and focus on craft shochus.• Genuine ‘Honkaku’ Shochu. Single disti l led. Smaller batch. Limited • Media promotes health benefits.

GLOCAL BAR IMO VIBES, KUMAMOTO

BUSINESS BEEN GOOD • Domestic demand very strong in 2000’s• Industry made up of many Mom & Pop, family-run disti l leries.• Maintaining artisanal quality paramount.• No urgent need to turn attention to overseas markets.

LIQUOR SHOP, ARITA

LOST IN TRANSLATION• Producers unfamiliar with overseas markets.• Strategy / sales shift. Not just for the table, but also for the bar.• COCKTAILS?!? “HOW DARE YOU”• How to communicate/promote shochu overseas.

HERO IZAKAYA, KUMAMOTO

BUT WAY TOO BIG TO STAY PUT• Asian spirits on the rise. Shochu spillover imminent.• Our healthy obsession with all things Japanese.• Japan synonymous with quality, craftsmanship, perfectionism.• Japanese whisky just the tip of the iceberg.

SATSUMA-YA, TOKYO

GET IT STRAIGHT• Many misconceptions on shochu in the USA.• Hold the kimchi!!! It’s shochu, not soju.• Not to be confused with ‘sake’ (nihonshu) • And stop call ing it Japanese vodka!

SATSUMA-YA, TOKYO

JAPAN’S ORIGINAL CRAFT SPIRIT• ‘Honkaku’ shochu. Single distil led. Traditional craftsmanship.• The focus is more on the ingredients. Capturing their natural essence.• ‘Koji’ makes the magic happen. Ties all shochu together.• Water is praised as key ingredient. Incredibly soft in Kyushu.

STAINLESS STEEL POT STILL @ MUNEMASA

RUSTIC CHARM / FARM TO BOTTLE• Mom & Pop. Artisanal Spirits.• Imagery = Countryside. Southern Folk. Blue Collar.• Respect for nature. The spirit of the harvest.• Holy trinity of the land, the farmer, the disti l lery.

TWO-ROWED BARLEY

ENDLESS VARIETY AND VERSATILITY• 50+ ingredients. Incredible diversity of flavor.• Neat, rocks, hot or cold with water, soda, highballs, cocktails…• Pairing with food a key aspect of Japanese drinking culture.• As is the types of drinking/serving vessels.

SAKAMAI, NYC

CLASSES OF SHOCHUTwo main classes of shochu• Korui shochu (developed 1910)

– Continuous distillation, column still, bottled max abv: 35%)

• Honkaku (otsurui) shochu – Single distillation, pot still, no additives

permitted, bottled max abv: 45%)

TYPES OF SHOCHU• Imo (sweet potato)

– Nearly 50 varieties– First appeared in the Ryukyu Islands (Okinawa) in 1605, then made their

way to Kagoshima 100 years later where they thrived in the volcanic soils– Harvest Aug-Nov

• Mugi (barley)– Two-row barley is used for higher starch content, fewer enzymes

(proteins)– Generally polished (seibaku) to 60-65% of original size– Domestic harvest April-May. Australian barley used as well

• Kome (rice)– Hundreds of types– Main groups

• Japonica – Shorter and rounder, more common in Kyushu and northern parts

• Indica or Thai mai – longer and thinner, used for Awamori in Okinawa– Generally milled to 85-90% of its original size

TYPES OF SHOCHU• Kokuto (sugarcane)

– Spread to Amami Islands (Kagoshima) in 1610 from China and then onto Okinawa, but didn’t join the Honkaku Shochu club until 1953 when America returned the islands to Japan

– Must use kome (rice) koji to differentiate itself from rum• Soba (buckwheat)

– First produced in Miyazaki Prefecture in 1973. Husks are quite hard and once removed, koji propagation is difficult

– In 2004, Towari finally was able to develop Soba koji, thus creating the first 100% soba Shochu

TYPES LESS COMMON• Green tea, shisho, sesame, chestnut, carrot, green

pepper, aloe, tomato, date, cactus, onion • Azuki bean, ginkgo nuts, sunflower seed, oolong tea,

ume seed, pumpkin, shiitake mushroom, milk• Ashitaba, amachazuru enokitake, otaneninjin, kudzu

powder, kumazasa, green pea, acorn • Kombu, nori, other seaweed, saffron, daikon radish,

no-fat powdered milk, horse chestnut, water chestnut, safflower, matatabi vine, matcha, lily root, mugwort, lotus, wakame

• Many infusions and liqueurs are made from a Shochu base, including Umeshu and others

Towari• Soba (buckwheat)• Shiro (white) soba

(buckwheat) koji• Joatsu (atmospheric

pressure distillation)• 25% abv

1 2Shiro Ginrei• Kome (rice)• Shiro (white) kome

(rice) koji• Genatsu (reduced

pressure distillation)

• 25% abv

Jougo• Kokuto (sugarcane)• Shiro (white) kome

(rice) koji• Genatsu (reduced

pressure distillation)

• 25% abv

3

FIRST TASTING

PRODUCTION• Koji kin (mold spores). Propagates on rice or

other ingredients to create koji, which convert starches to sugar. Approx. 2 days

– Ingredient is milled or peeled, washed, soaked, steamed and allowed to cool to 35-40C and then koji kin is sprinkled on top

– 3 types• Shiro (white koji) – often lighter and milder • Kuro (black koji) – body, richness, and a hint of sweetness• Ki (yellow koji). Also used for nihonshu (sake). Can bring about

more fruit and lighter aromas• Base ingredient goes through similar process (no koji-kin

addition), yeast and water are added

KOJ I ROOM

KOJ I ROOM

KOJ I ROOM

SWEET POTATO – MATERIAL PREP

SWEET POTATO – MATERIAL PREP

SWEET POTATO – MATERIAL PREP

SWEET POTATO – MATERIAL PREP

SAGA GROWN BARLEY @ MUNEMASA SHUZO

POLISHED BARLEY @ MUNEMASA SHUZO

JAPONICA RICE

PRODUCTION• Multiple parallel fermentation (heiko

fukuhakko)– Unique to shochu and nihonshu– While some starches are being converted to sugars, other sugars are

being converted to alcohol– Leads to higher abv pre-distillation

• Typically 2 stages of fermentation (Awamori undergoes a single fermentation)

– Ichiji shikomi (1st fermentation). Builds up a large healthy population of yeast and enzymes from the koji to aid in the saccharification process. 5-8 days

– Niji shikomi (2nd fermentation). Main ingredient is added in larger quantities along with more water. 1-2 weeks

1 S T MASH / MOROMI @ MUNEMASA SHUZO

2 n d MASH / MOROMI @ MUNEMASA SHUZO

2 n d MASH / MOROMI @ MUNEMASA SHUZO

PRODUCTION• Base ingredients

– 50+ ingredients permitted, but the most prominent are sweet potato (imo), barley (mugi), kome (rice), kokuto (sugar cane) and soba (buckwheat)

• Single Distillation (joryu)– Only one distillation run. Producers believe this preserves more

aromatics vs. multiple distillations• Distillation type

– Joatsu (normal atmospheric pressure)• Generally bolder and fuller

– Genatsu (reduced pressure)• Generally lighter with more delicate aromatics

• Genshu (undiluted distillate) max 45% abv

AGING, FILTRATION, BOTTLING• Aging (jukusei)

– All Shochu generally rests for 3mos – 1 year– Aging vessels include stainless tanks (tanku), earthenware pots (kame)

and oak (taru)– Most Shochu is aged for less than 3 years

• Dilution – typically down to 25% abv, but some boutique brands are higher

(genshu) around 40-45%, some brands in the 30%’s as well.• Filtration (roka)

– May take place before or after aging and is similar to most other spirits.– Unfiltered (muroka) shochu can be found as well

• Blending• Bottling (bin d’zume)

– Generally 720ml or 1.8L. Also cup shochu (200ml)

Seigiku - Koji Making

Single DistillationAtmospheric or Vacuum

Primary Shubo - Ichiji Shikomi

Secondary Moromi - Niji Shikomi

Distillation

Storing & Aging

Blending & Water Dilution

Bottling

Shipping Out

White, Black, or Yellow Koji

Adding water and Yeast to Koji

Black Koji

Adding Main Ingredient to Shubo

Adding water and Yeast to Koji

All Koji - Shikomi

Stainless or Enamel tank, Earthenware Pot, or Wooden Barrel

Atmospheric or Vacuum

Earthenware Pot: Kuusu has minimum aging period. 　

2 days

5 days

7~14 days

1 day

Honkaku Shochu 本格焼酎

Awamori 泡盛Water + Koji + Main Ingredient Water + Koji

SATSUMA-YA, TOKYO

TRANSLATING SHOCHU FOR OVERSEAS• Initial campaigns were build around “low calorie” message.• Completely ignored the artisanal nature of shochu. Agrarian roots.• Did not do justice to history or tradition.• Very gimmicky.

GEN SHOCHU BAR, TOKYO

ABV IN QUESTION• One challenge for shochu overseas is the ideal alcohol level.• In Japan, lower abv paired with food. More mainstream.• Higher proof for sipping, appreciation. Less common. Specialty shochu.• High / low both considered craft, just for different occasions / regions.

OUR VISION• Traditional, authentic, with a nod to shochus of old (higher abv).• Higher proof more on par with Western spirits.• Higher abv better suited for certain cocktails.• Intended more for bars. This is where we do most of our drinking.

OUR JOURNEY• Passion to present shochu in the right l ight. Respect tradition.• Trekking across Kyushu, visiting distil leries, learning the drinking

culture.• More than 500 brands tasted.• In search of delicious “genshu”. Destiny along the path.

THE DISTILLERY - MUNEMASA• Munemasa Shuzo Co. Family with industry roots since mid1800s.• Small mountain town of Arita. Birthplace of Japanese porcelain.• Motto is “unprecedented creativity and innovation”.• Yet grounded in dedication to 100% locally farmed ingredients.

THE BRANDMIZU SHOCHU 美鶴乃舞• Handcrafted and single

disti l led in the traditional way.

• 35% abv. Higher proof and nod to shochus of old.

• ‘SAGA BARLEY’: classic ‘mugi’ blend of 67% barley and 33% black koji rice.

• 100% locally farmed ingredients. Soft water from Black Hair Mountain.

• New seasonal expressions, starting with ‘LEMONGRASS’, rice shochu with fresh organic lemongrass added to 2 nd mash.

Mizu (Mizunomai)• Mugi (barley) • Kuro (black)

kome (rice) koji• Genatsu (reduced pressure

distillation)• 35% abv

Gokoo (Kitaya)• Mugi (Barley)• Black (kuro) kome (rice) koji• Joatsu (normal pressure

distillation)• 25% abv• Aged in American oak for 3 years

4

5

SECOND TASTING

REGIONALITY• Many producers make shochu from many different base ingredients, but

there are currently four regional appellations protected by the WTO with very specific production guidelines in order to carry the designation– Satsuma Shochu (Satsuma is the former name of Kagoshima Prefecture).

Imo, water and entire production must come from Satsuma and only kome or imo koji can be used.  

– Kuma Shochu (Hitoyoshi Basin, Kumamoto Prefecture). 100% kome with water from the Kuma River. Currently 28 distilleries

– Iki Shochu (Iki Island, Nagasaki Prefecture). 2 parts mugi to 1 part kome. Thought to be the birthplace of mugi Shochu in Japan due to its proximity and relations with Korea. Originally known for kasutori Shochu (sake lees). 7 distilleries on small islands

– Ryukyu Awamori (Okinawa Prefecture). Birthplace of Japanese Shochu and distillation. Must use kuro (black koji) and long grained indica rice. Only 1 fermentation (zenkoji shikomi) and has certain aging requirements if stated on the label

SERVING VESSELS • Glasses• Elaborate or rustic pottery• Small earthenware vessels

– Kuro Joka (Kagoshima), Gara (Kumamoto) w/ little choko (cups), Kara-Kara (Awamori) Soragyu shot cups (Kumamoto)

SERVING STYLES• Oyuwari – mixed with hot or warm water. Always pour the

water first and then the Shochu• Mizuwari – mixed with cold water• Maewari – Shochu mixed with water a day or two ahead of

time. It’s believed to create a more integrated, rounded drink

• Rokku – on the rocks• Neat

COCKTAILS• Chu-hai highballs with juice (Collins or Fizz

style) are by far the most common in Japan, but some bartenders are developing new drinks

• Classic families, old fashioned, sours, tiki, slings, juleps, smashes, cobblers

• Punches: as a base for a lower abv punch or a modifier

• Toddies, nogs, flips• Herbs, spices, fresh juices and vegetables

MACENYC

BAR TRENCH – TOKYO“SHUNGA” COCKTAIL

BARMINI BY JOSE ANDRES“DEVINE WIND” COCKTAIL

DAIKAYAWASHINGTON DC

THE “IMPROVED SHOCHU COCKTAIL”BAR GOTO

BARMINIWASHINGTON DC

CLOVER CLUBNYC

DEATH & CONYC

MENU SECTIONS• FAR EAST, JAPAN and SHOCHU dedicated sections

in top cocktail establishments

Satsuma Mura  • Imo (sweet potato)• Black (kuro) kome (rice) koji• Joatsu (regular pressure pot still

distillation)• 25% abv

Tenshi no Yuwaku• Imo (sweet potato)• Shiro (white) kome (rice) koji• Joatsu (regular pressure pot still

distillation)• Genshu (cask strength)• 40% abv• Sherry cask aged for 10 yrs.

6

7

THIRD TASTING

FOOD PAIRING• Incredible versatility within each type due to the

many production factors• Consider the structure of the dish and the

structure of the Shochu• Complementary or contrasting flavors• It would not be a stretch to say Japan invented

seasonality and the use of local ingredients • Consider the sauce and other components of a

dish• Vegetables, fish, chicken, pork, beef and of course,

ramen all have a Shochu that will pair beautifully

FUTURE OF SHOCHU• Japan was mostly closed off from the rest of the world

until the 20th century.• Captain Matthew Perry's Black ships 1853-1854 opened

up trade. Scotch and Irish whiskies, Cognac, Rum and Gin spread around the world while Shochu remained isolated

• Language barrier and labels– More producers are providing back labels or more info on the

front of the label• Bartender, sommelier, writer and wholesale/retail

engagement and education– More events such as this, festivals, cocktail weeks– More media attention, articles, videos, etc.

• Focus on consumer education and awareness as well

PURPORTED HEALTH BENEFITS ARE TRUE

SHOCHU EXPORT BY COUNTRY (kilo Lit)

Country 2014 Share %China 843 31.7%

USA 490 18.4%

Hong Kong 336 12.7%

Korea 211 7.9%

Malaysia 152 5.7%

Total 2656 100.0%

COCKTAILS SERVED TODAY

Ume Revisited2oz Mizu.75oz fresh plum .5oz Hebess.25oz Simple syrup2 dashes Spanish Bitters

Gateway to Kyushu2oz Satsuma Shiranami Kuradashi Genshu.5oz Dashi.5oz Yuzu.5oz Grenadine2 dashes Shichimi Togarashi

Pacific Leaning2oz Lemongrass Mizu.75oz Verjus.25oz Dry Curacao1 barspoon Maraschino1 dash Grapefruit bitters

Sakura at Night2oz Imakoko Mugi.5oz Barley tea.5oz Grilled cherry juice.5oz Maurin Quina.25oz Simple syrup

Gateway to Kyushu2oz Satsuma Shiranami Kuradashi Genshu.5oz Dashi.5oz Yuzu.5oz Grenadine2 dashes Shichimi Togarashi

RECAP• Shochu can be made from many ingredients, but most

commonly imo, mugi, kome, soba and kokuto• It uses koji (3 different types of koji kin are used) for the starch

to sugar conversion process• Multiple parallel fermentation where the starch to sugar

conversion occurs at the same time that other sugars are being converted to alcohol

• Either normal pressure or reduced pressure (or both) distillation methods

• Single pot still distillation• Numerous aging vessels• All this leads to an incredibly diverse spirit, which is definitely

not vodka

Thank you!

Brian Matthys

Jesse Falowitz

Toshio Ueno

Masahiro Takeda

bmatthys@hotmail.com IG @brmatthys

jfalowitz@mizushochu.com IG @mizushochu

toshio.ueno@lamtc.com IG @ueno_toshio

masahiro.takeda@wineofjapan.com

CAPs Justin Duffin & Alexander Gregg