SUPERIOR ONLINE July 2012
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Transcript of SUPERIOR ONLINE July 2012
Magazi
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guard fashion & art photography • www.superior-mag.com
#JULY2012
Premium Order Duesseldorf JuLy 28 – 31, 2012
Hammer Hallen Hammer Strasse 27 —— 40219 Duesseldorf
www.premiumexhibitions.com
Premium Order munich auguSt 11–14, 2012
Zenith area Lilienthalallee 29 —— 80939 munich
www.premiumexhibitions.com
Premium Order Duesseldorf JuLy 28 – 31, 2012
Hammer Hallen Hammer Strasse 27 —— 40219 Duesseldorf
www.premiumexhibitions.com
Premium Order munich auguSt 11–14, 2012
Zenith area Lilienthalallee 29 —— 80939 munich
www.premiumexhibitions.com
International brands for contemporary jewellery and watches - www.schmuckraeume-berlin.de
„Die Grande Panama –
weil Erfahrung und
Anspruch mit der Zeit
wachsen.“ Rainer Brand
Zum 20-jährigen Jubiläum präsen-
tieren wir unsere Automatikuhr der
ersten Stunde im größeren Format
mit mehr Spielraum für Zeiger, Datum
und Ihren Stil.
Die Grande Panama zeigt Sinn für
das Besondere: Zifferblatt aus
massivem Sterlingsilber, Saphirglas
bombiert und hartentspiegelt und
Rotor schwarzvergoldet.
www.rainerbrand.de · [email protected]
Friedenstraße 9 · D-63872 Heimbuchenthal
Telefon 06092 5372 · Fax 06092 6903
Grande Panama, 40 mm
AZ_Panama_Gr_215,9x279,4.indd 1 05.04.12 12:10
International brands for contemporary jewellery and watches - www.schmuckraeume-berlin.de
„Die Grande Panama –
weil Erfahrung und
Anspruch mit der Zeit
wachsen.“ Rainer Brand
Zum 20-jährigen Jubiläum präsen-
tieren wir unsere Automatikuhr der
ersten Stunde im größeren Format
mit mehr Spielraum für Zeiger, Datum
und Ihren Stil.
Die Grande Panama zeigt Sinn für
das Besondere: Zifferblatt aus
massivem Sterlingsilber, Saphirglas
bombiert und hartentspiegelt und
Rotor schwarzvergoldet.
www.rainerbrand.de · [email protected]
Friedenstraße 9 · D-63872 Heimbuchenthal
Telefon 06092 5372 · Fax 06092 6903
Grande Panama, 40 mm
AZ_Panama_Gr_215,9x279,4.indd 1 05.04.12 12:10
connected to fashion
T O YOU.C O N N E C T E D
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SUPERIOR MAGAZINE Lychener Strasse 76, 10437 Berlin
Superior Magazine accepts no liability for any
unsolicited material whatsoever. Opinions
contained in the editorial content are those of
the contributors and not necessarily those of
the publisher of Superior Magazine. Despite
careful control Superior Magazine accepts no
liability for the content of external links.
Any reproduction in whole or in part without
written permission is strictly prohibited
PUbLIShER Tom FelberChIEf EdItOR V.i.S.d.P. Tom Felber / [email protected] dIRECtOR Marc Huth / [email protected] dIRECtOR Simon Heeger / [email protected] dIRECtOR Jesse Benjamin / [email protected] dEPARtMENt [email protected] [email protected] MANAGEMENt [email protected]
# Imprint
ONLINE
CONtRIbUtORS Bastian Achard, Tatiana Kurnosova, Sara Mautone, Danilo Hess, Erica Fava, Kay Smith (photographers)Elena Schröder, Marcel Debong (editors)
COvER shot by Tatiana Kurnosova
# Dear SUPERIOR readers,
When we planned our July issue we thought »HEAT« would fit perfect. We expected hot fashion editorials and of course we looked forward to a hot Fashion Week Berlin. Both expec-tations have been absolutely met.
Again we got a lot of great submissions from all over the world. For SUPERIOR ONLINE July 2012 we selected five photographers - Danilo Hess (New York), Erica Fava (Rome), Kay Smith (Paris), Sara Mautone (Florence) and Tatiana Kur-nosova (Saint Petersburg).
During Fashion Week Berlin a team of ten - two photogra-phers and eight editors - visited fashion shows and trade fairs to find out what will be hot next Spring/Summer season. A small selection you find in this issue and more will come soon. Furthermore we did a couple of interviews with fashion designers which you also will find in this issue.
Last but not least we got a present. For our first anniversary of SUPERIOR our readers pushed our June issue so much that we really felt hot. Thanks a lot to all SUPERIOR team members and of course to everybody who likes the maga-zine!
And now enjoy SUPERIOR ONLINE July 2012 ...
Tom & Marc
# Editorial
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July 2012
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ONLINE
Editorial & Imprint -12-
Fashion Week Berlin -18-
Issue July 2012
# Selection
Augustin Teboul ›Les Fleurs du Mal‹ -30-
# Story
LINIST -48-
Steven Tai -54-
Perret Schaad -58-
Sebastian Ellrich -56-
# talk
Designer for Tomorrow -38-
Brands -144-
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Fashion Week Diary by Bastian Achard -60-
Sara Mautone »Flowers Gone« -82-
Danilo Hess »14R« -98-
Kay Smith »BlueTYsport« -134-
Tatiana Kurnosova »Play It Hot« -70-
Erica Fava»Fringe« -118-
# Editorial
Fashion Week Diary by Bastian Achard -60-
Superior Magazine Blog
www.superior-mag.com/blog
www.superior-mag.com/blog
Visit now!
www.SUPERIOR-MAG.comMAgAzInE FOr yOung vAnguArD FASHIOn & ArT pHOTOgrApHy
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ONLINE
OUR fAShION wEEk bERLIN
SELECtION IN JULY
AqUARIUS
—Travel awakens sensual pleasures and fuels a zest for life. And the Mediterranean, with its gentle breeze and fine sandy beaches, becomes a mecca for rest and relaxation – or indeed the ideal setting for water sports. The lively island atmosphere particularly spoke to passionate diver Michael Sieger, encouraging him to draw inspiration for AQUARIUS from the exuberant vibe, from nature and the colourful interplays found in the region. Vivid blue, intense turquoise, the white created by foaming waves, a yellow that gleams like the sun and the beige tone of the beach can be seen amongst pastel shades in the new 2013 spring/summer fashions. The AQUARIUS collection includes for ladies scarfs, shawls, carrés and, for the first time silk ribbons.
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»AQUARIUS is emblematic of the diversity in and around the Mediterranean,« explains the designer. Coral and fish motifs are as charac-teristic of it as the stripes that somehow call to mind beach towels and parasols. Geomet-ric patterns are waiting to be discovered in the accessories and some even hark back to Medi-terranean history. We know that the meander-ing shapes, with their distinctly right-angled contours, have been used as ornamental pieces since the Neolithic age.
The AQUARIUS collection engenders a passion for life and a sense of well-being associated with the region – it exudes the elegance of a trip to Cannes, radiates the vivacity of the beaches on Ibiza and is as enlivening as the harbour of Portofino.
www.sieger.org | found at PREMIUM
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ONLINE
zERO wAStE
—Design from Scandinavia is famous for being innovative and clear. And that's also true for David Andersen's work, the well-known Danish designer of cool and edgy fashion clothes and extravagant couture dresses. One of his projects is called ›Zero-Waste‹.
ZERO wAStE PAttERN fOR SwEAtER
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Zero-Waste is a project, which explores the opportunities of utilizing efficiently the fabric used in production – actually 100 %. The idea is to use every single square millimetre of the fab-ric, hence the name zero-waste. Basically, the design enables the entire usage of the fabric. It is the virtue of the designer, to create simple designs, so even the tinniest part of the fabric, will be integrated in the final design, thus elim-inating waste.
»It is all about minimizing waste, already in the design and production phase, and applying the approach for the next design process. In the end, the final result will signal both a design and social point of view« says David Andersen about the design experiment, which will be an integrated part of the designer’s spring/sum-mer 13 collection. The collection will go under the name of zero-waste by David Andersen.
www.zero-wastebydavidandersen.com | found at GREENshowroom
July 2012
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LUxURy
-Rachel Zoe embodies luxury. Her iconic style is glamorous, vintage inspired and effortless. By combining all the experience and knowledge of her years as a stylist with designer silhouettes, the Rachel Zoe Collection provides accessible luxury and head-to-toe looks. With her foot-wear Spring/Summer 2013 collection everybody is prepared for the red carped!
www.thezoereport.com | found at PREMIUM
July 2012
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SHOES tHAt MAKE PEOPLE wISH-
ING tHEIR wORLD BECOMES HAPPy wItH NO wAR
—
White is a colour of peace, and it is the image colour of the young Japanese label White Flag's. The footwear label has been launched in 2010 by the ISSEY MIYAKE designer Tatsuya Oconogi and reached already fashion hotspots like Anto-nioli (Milan), Browns (London) or Pool (Munich).
White Flag's combines both ›mode‹ and »street« aspects in an elegant way. Due to the label's strong commitment to peace, it is only logical that each series of White Flag's collections has Nobel prize winner or pacifist names.
www.wfn10.com | found at PREMIUM
July 2012
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ONLINE
MIMICRy IN PORCELAIN
—In the series of events during the Berlin Fashion Week Showroom Days the design label vaporet-ta berlin presented ›L’Histoire de Mimi Cri‹, their first ring collection made entirely of porcelain. The three models, Pool Blue (azure blue), Bicho (black blue) and Ouro Branco (snow-white and partially gold-plated) are each limited to 32 piec-es and numbered by hand.
The combination and reinterpretation of South American and European lifestyles is one of vapo-retta berlin themes. Their sources of inspiration include Brazilian Neoconcretismo, characterized by a ›longing for form‹.
The name ›L’Histoire de Mimi Cri‹ refers to the term ›mimicry‹ which is used in biology if on species uses the similarity to another order to mimic it and to protect them itself. At the same time it's also a game of words with the French expression ›Le dernier Cri‹ for ›a must have‹ in fashion.
Isabella Pikart founded her vaporetta berlin label in 2001. Porcelain as material always fascinated her as one of the oldest materials used by man-kind: not long ago it was precious as gold and therefore also was named ›white gold‹, ›ouro branco‹, in Portuguese. Isabella Pikart's work consists of recognizing structures and forms in nature or every day life and to re-interpret and re-organize them in an unconventional way.
www.vaporetta.org | found at Showroom Days Berlin
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July 2012
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ONLINE
SEEME HAS A GOLDEN HEARt [fOR wOMEN]
—
Made all pictures the same sizeAligned the eyesPut them in an order where the outermost pictures face inwardsCropped them with a box that includes the entire face and the jewelleryAdded the logo and tagline
don’t just look at me
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July 2012
One saw it everywhere at Fashion Week Berlin - the golden heart of SeeMe.
SeeMe is a line of products designed for people who want to be seen, not just to be looked at. It makes you look good and feel good. SeeMe is combining cool design, style and ancient hand-icraft technique with social economic advance-ment. All products are hand made by victims of domestic violence living in the bidonville of Ankara, they all tell the story of the artisans behind them.
SeeMe first collection emphasizes the discreet luxury of hand work and the simplicity of design. It is an homogeneous collection where minimal-ism prevails and fashion conscious messages are displayed in a stylish manner, away from frills.
www.seemeintheworld.com | found at GREEN-showroom
Made all pictures the same sizeAligned the eyesPut them in an order where the outermost pictures face inwardsCropped them with a box that includes the entire face and the jewelleryAdded the logo and tagline
don’t just look at me
visit SEEME
ONLINE
# With a fascinating installation, based on Baudelaire's cycle of poems ›Les Fleurs du Mal‹, AUGUSTIN TEBOUL pre-sented their spring/summer 2013 collection at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin.
The collection shows complex floral patterns in lace, crochet and three-dimensional embroidery. Baroque details are combined with masculine elements. Open backs, pleats, draping, deconstructed and flowing cuts create a feminine, elegant and modern silhouette out of jersey, leather and silk. Beadworks of SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS embellish headdress-es and crocheted pieces.
The photographer Bastian Achard tells AUGUSTIN TEBOUL's story of their installation LES FLEURS DU MAL for SUPERIOR Magazine in pictures.
LES fLEURS dU MAL
all photos bAStIAN AChARd
ONLINE
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July 2012
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July 2012
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July 2012
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# To support ambitious and rising designers in an ongo-ing way - that is the mission of the talent award ›DESIGNER FOR TOMORROW‹ – initiated by Peek & Cloppenburg, one of the most prominent department stores in Europe. The annu-al award offers a platform for young and talented designers to enter the fashion business.
The winner will present his own collection in January 2013 during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin. Peek & Clop-penburg supports the winner in organization and especial-ly in financing the start in fashion business. A work studio, a participation in a trade fair, a PR & social media coaching and a coaching by patron Marc Jacobs in his studios in New York and Paris.
For the first time this year, applications from all over Europe were accepted. Starting with over 350 applications, Lou-is Vuitton creative director Marc Jacobs initially selected 30 and finally five. This month, these five finalists presented their collections during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Ber-lin.
For SUPERIOR Magazine Marcel Debong met two of the finalists of DESIGNER FOR TOMORROW one day before the show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin for an inter-view.
dESIGNER fOR tOMORROw
photos bAStIAN AChARd
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ONLINE
# What it your inspiration about your life in London, which is called a very energetic, extro-verted and creative place?
London is a mixture of different cultures, dif-ferent traditions and a kind of clash of all differ-ent cultures and their traditions. My collection is also a clash. A clash of fabrics, textures, prints and colors. So, it is actually a kind of correlation of all these elements.
# But London also seems to be a place of a clash between avant-garde, punk and Brit-ish tradition. How do you handle the balance between tradition and avant-garde? Or do you ignore British tradition?
Actually, my original inspiration was armor – 500 years of royal armor. But later on, I moved forward and actually looking for modern cos-tumes like a storm trooper. So, I was still looking in the past, on the tradition of armors – making it modern, making it avant-garde, just making it forward.
# Ramil Makinano, 39 from London, takes his inspiration from life itself. He claims that his style is an expression of what you are or want to be. His tools: energetic, positive and fun people.
# When we have a closer look at your designs, we could also find a clash between modern ele-ments – especially due to your unique print – and traditional or historical references. How do you handle this?
I look on exaggerated shapes and silhouettes. When I did my research on classical armors, I found caricature of Mrs. Thatcher, an Iron Lady, and I thought about power, strong woman, pow-er dressing in the 1980’s. So, I had a closer look to the costumes in the 80’s like Thierry Mugler and the silhouette – very strong shoulders, a very close to the body silhouette. And this is my own interpretation: neon colors, bold colors and fun.# »Bold, humorous and future« – you used these words to describe your designs. Where can we find these elements in your designs – and maybe also in your life?
You can interpret my collection on very dif-ferent ways. You could see space men. You could see rockets. The prints, the colors and also the mixture of materials like neoprene with silk or cotton jersey which is not supposed to be there. It is – of course – a joke. You should see the col-lection humorous.
# Marc Jacobs is also known for his colorful and exaggerated designs. For example, these Puritan shoes in his upcoming Fall/Winter-Col-lection. Do you see a link to his work?
I think that the research is the link to him. Marc Jacobs do a lot of research and moving it forward, finding a twist idea and creating your original idea. I correlate that kind of mentality of Marc Jacobs. In my opinion, you can find only on this way your original design.
July 2012
# What are your expectation on the show and your participation in ›Designer for Tomorrow‹?
Berlin is a very exciting city – just like Lon-don. I am pleased to be a part of Berlin Fash-ion Week and hopefully win. But if I will not win, I look forward. There will be a next collection, hopefully showing in Berlin.
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photos bAStIAN AChARd
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ONLINE
# What was so inspiring on reading ›Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland‹?
After reading I tried to analyze the whole appearance of Alice in the story. She is in her teenage years, her body starts growing and she feels very uncomfortable in her own body. Eve-rything is a big mess in her head. The focus in the collection is what happens with the female body and the mind during puberty. Your hips and breasts start to grow. You might be very insecure. I focus on the hips, the shoulder and breasts and trying to make them very feminine. It’s about transforming into something power-ful, beautiful and adult.
# ›Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland‹ is a story about growing up and strengthening – maybe an analogy to your ambitions in fashion business?
Yes, it might be. Alice and the whole fairytale taught me a lot. Just being here and being a part of the competition taught me a lot. I think I have definitely grown up as a designer. And I think that it was possible to transform this experience in my collection as well.
# What are you expecting from Berlin?
I think what I got from being in Berlin is just the whole vibe about Berlin. I live in Copenhagen and you could compare it but the adrenalin in Berlin is just very high. And the fashion adrena-lin is very exciting and the whole fashion scene is very inspiring. I get a lot of inspiration being here.
# Camilla Salgaard Nielsen, 26 from Copenhagen, was get-ting inspired by the classic fairytale ›Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland‹ and created a strong and feminine collection as well. Her aim is to express individuality. The unexpected element: the collection is all over in black.
photos bAStIAN AChARd
# »Strong, sophisticated, black« – you used these words in your designs. Your collection expresses the image of a woman. On which way do you transform your image of a modern wom-an on your designs?
The collection should have a very strong statement. The expression of the contrast between insecurity and turning into something really strong is quite important.
July 2012
# In our mind is a very colorful picture of ›Alice in Wonderland‹ – due to Tim Burton’s mov-ie. Why have you decided to create a collection which is all over in black?
It is about doing something unexpected. First of all, the black is reflecting the temper of a teenager and the black is reflecting being a strong and powerful woman which is trans-formed into. And black also supports the state-ment of my collection. But black was also a chal-lenge because it is difficult to see the details. So I had to concentrate on the cuts, the shapes and the silhouette.
# Marc Jacobs is known for his exagger-ated style under his own label and emphasized an image of a classical lady in his work for Lou-is Vuitton. Do you see Marc Jacobs as a mentor or maybe also as an inspiration?
What I try most to focus on is the whole history about Marc Jacobs. He stared out, also winning awards for instance. I wanted to be a designer from my very early age. And I think he worked very hard for getting here. In my opin-ion, that is what it takes to be a good designer, to get a professional career and keeping it. He taught me that my design is strong and should stick on it. He said, that I should keep my iden-tity in my designs because the danger is to lose my personal view on fashion, my creativity when I try to work clients exclusively.
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photos bAStIAN AChARd
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July 2012
# Leandro Cano, 28 from Sevilla, impressed the famous patron and the competent jury board. He became the fifth DESIGNER FOR TOMORROW. His aim: aesthetic exaltation. He creates new silhouettes and transforms classical piec-es into tridimensional. His collection showed complex prints, leather handcrafted right down to the smallest detail and elaborate, voluminous basic designs.
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photos bAStIAN AChARd
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# Laura Williams, 24 form London, deals in her collection of outdoor apparel. Inspired by Ernest Shackeltons’s Antarc-tic exploration, Williams worked with knots, buckles and a mountaineer’s equipment. Laura Williams combines heavy knit with lightweight functional materials.
photos bAStIAN AChARd
July 2012
# Siddhartha Anselm Meyer, 31 from Berlin, focuses com-pletely on sustainability. He is fascinated by the story a sec-ond hand piece can tell. In his collection, he combines tradi-tional menswear with a modern silhouette and unobtrusive voluminous shapes.
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photos bAStIAN AChARd
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ONLINE
# The fashion platform LINIST builds a bridge between Berlin and Istanbul - via fashion. Together with the Turk- ish Ministry of Culture and Tourism they presented the three vanguard designer Burçe Bekrek, Günseli Türkay and Zeynep Erdoğan from Istanbul at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin.
For SUPERIOR Magazine Marcel Debong talked to Gülriz Egilmez from LINIST.
bERLINIStANbUL
Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin Spring/Summer 2013
BurCE BEKrEK © Mercedes-Benz Fashion
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July 2012
Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin Spring/Summer 2013
BurCE BEKrEK © Mercedes-Benz Fashion
# Two fashion capitals - Berlin & Istanbul – will connect each other. Why did you choose espe-cially Berlin?
Berlin is my home-base and I started my fashion career here many years ago. After grad-uating from ESMOD Berlin, I worked in sever-al areas of fashion design in Berlin and inter-nationally, from design, Production and own store with my own brand as well as for oth-ers. I worked in PR and did brand consulting. I love Berlin for its inspiring and edgy vibe. I don't like the term “Berlin – poor but sexy“ because it stigmatizes Berlin and I don't like my city to be called that way. Especially fashion designers are struggling with this mindset as most of them are working in precarious circumstances and are trying to find buyers and customers to convince them that Berlin has changed as a whole. Ber-lin designers are forming a particular aesthetic which stands for the new era of fashion design from Germany. Labels like HIEN LE, VLADIMIR KARALEEV, ISSEVER BAHRI and many more are changing the landscape of German fashion design. They are working internationally com-petitive and need help in funding their compa-nies as well as selling points all over the world.
# And which role has Istanbul in a modern landscape of fashion design?
I think this why I want to connect to Istanbul. Istanbul is a metropolis of roughly 15 million citi-zens and an inspiring melting pot with its amaz-ing history, its hectic present and bright future. Istanbul is on the move, a lot of things are hap-pening, from fashion to art to music to sociolog-ical changes within the society. In these days it is very similar to Berlin in the 90s – my favour-ite Berlin decade when everything was happen-ing here.
Istanbul has a huge fashion industry from fabric retailers, small to large production com-panies, a vast array of shopping malls, luxury department stores like Beymen as well as small concept stores like Midnight Express which sells an excellent selection of well-known to insider brands from all over the world. Turkish women and men are very much into fashion and are con-suming a lot more fashion than maybe Germans. It has an established scene of fashion designers and big local brands. Istanbul is fashion in its best sense. And Istanbul is definitely sexy and not poor at all.
It is just logical to connect these two trend capitals, not just in terms of fashion. I am in fashion, that's why I am starting here but I would love to connect the cities in far more other dis-ciplines.
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# Where do you see difference and similarities between Berlin and Istanbul?
The differences are not as much as the sim-ilarities. Maybe the main difference is the fact that Istanbul has a vast fashion infrastructure in terms of garment districts and production companies but the design scene is not that well known internationally yet. Berlin on the other hand hasn't that much of a fashion infrastruc-ture but a very vibrant fashion scene which makes itself heard with Fashion Week Berlin and its various organizations like Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin, Premium Exhibitions fair and the Bread&Butter. The similarities are that Berlin and Istanbul are happening right now and to connect them is like putting the cherry on top of a delicious cake. The two cities are still open to play with their roles in the international fashion circuit. They are not yet established like Paris, Milan and London and have to find their niches. I think to be part of this development is exciting and promising.
# Istanbul also builds a bridge between Europe and Asia. Can we find this bridge in Istanbul fashion scene? And what is special about Istan-bul fashion scene?
Yes, definitely! Foreign customers and buy-ers are coming from Russia, Asian countries, Arabic countries and also Europe of course to find their desired fashion in Istanbul. Istanbul is offering a vast variety of all kinds of brands, from very cheap to very expensive, from very casual to Haute-Couture evening wear. There are certain districts in the city where collections
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July 2012
Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin Spring/Summer 2013
gÜnSELI TÜrKAy © Mercedes-Benz Fashion
of medium sized brands are sold wholesale right to the shop owners who are coming themselves to buy directly. Other brands are offering Haute-Couture garments to wealthy private customers and are selling evening gowns for some couple of thousand Euros and are selling wholesale to the Arabic market which is loving Turkish design-ers for their splendid creations. What I want to say is that Istanbul has it all. From the sewing thread to the jeans and shirts company to the hand-embroidered couture dress for 25.000€.
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Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin Spring/Summer 2013
zEynEp ErDOgAn © Mercedes-Benz Fashion
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July 2012
# You have picked up three avant-garde designers from Istanbul. What is special about these three designers? Why do you think that these designers fit perfectly to Berlin’s fashion?
I handpicked the designers because of their excellent signature styles. I followed two of them from almost of the beginning of their careers. Burce Bekrek who just started two years ago and Zeynep Erdogan I know for some years. She introduced me to Günseli Türkay whom I loved right away.
Burce is the minimalist among the three and designs very thoughtful pieces which caters to the needs of a modern woman. One of her sig-nature pieces, the coat, can be worn in almost seven different ways by unzipping parts of it and putting them back together in a different way. Günseli is the artist among them as she is working a lot with patterns and digital engi-neered prints in order to find a new aesthetic for the season. Zeynep is very much inspired by retro designs and since studying and working in Milan for many years she developed a signature style with skilful cut-outs, retro inspired prints and an eclectic mix of Street- and Evening Wear.
They present an excellent selection of what Istanbul is offering right now from young designers. In their styles they are very differ-ent but what combines them are the profes-sional approach to their businesses. They are all working with their teams of assistants, pattern makers and sewers. They are sewing in-house in a very good quality, are selling internationally and are open-minded to explore new frontiers like Berlin. They fit to Berlin as they are young and curious about what's happening here. The designers liked the vibe and energy of Fashion Week Berlin and also the vibe of the city. They are inspired by Istanbul and its urban mood and Berlin now is added to their list of inspiring and playful fashion cities.
# Which expectations do the designers and LINIST have for Berlin Fashion Week?
I started with LINIST, the bridge between Fashion BerLINISTanbul, with presenting eight designer labels like STARSTYLING, HIEN LE, THU THU, USLU AIRLINES, MYKITA and others in Istanbul at Midnight Express. This year LINIST together with the Turkish Ministry of Culture and Tourism is presenting the Turkish designers at Fashion Week Berlin.
The designers expect their brands to be internationally acknowledged by the fashion media and finding new sales points, with Ber-lin as a stepping stone. LINIST wants to estab-lish the route between Berlin and Istanbul in a fashionable way. All two cities can benefit from their resources and the logical connection has to be improved with more exchanges and opportu-nities to find distribution channels to sell inter-nationally as selling is crucial for a designers success. The next exchange from Berlin back to Istanbul is in the making and already new tal-ents have been scouted. We talked to the Gov-erning Mayor Klaus Wowereit who visited us at PREMIUM and we briefly introduced our plat-form to him. The Turkish Consul General Musta-fa Pulat who also visited our showroom at PRE-MIUM and had very good ideas concerning our topic.
I think that the future is bright for Berlin and Istanbul Fashion!
# Thank you Gülriz for the interview.
# Read the interviews with the designers Burce Bekrek, Günseli Türkay and Zeynep Erdogan in August at SUPERIOR ONLINE.
Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin Spring/Summer 2013
gÜnSELI TÜrKAy © Mercedes-Benz Fashion
Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin Spring/Summer 2013
zEynEp ErDOgAn © Mercedes-Benz Fashion
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# Steven Tai, you graduated at Central Saint Martins and already worked with big names like Stella McCartney, Damir Doma and Viktor & Rolf. What do you expect from Mercedes-Benz Fash-ion Week Berlin?
I think even though I have been at well known houses and their runways, I think Mer-cedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin will be a total-ly new and different experience. As this is my own personal show, I am much more involved with every step of the process. Having a show in Berlin is amazing because it helps build an iden-tity around my brand. I think the youthfulness/edginess that Berlin is known for is the perfect stage for me to debut my work. However it is really tough to speculate what the show might bring but the interest and responses have been really great and I can only wish for the interest to grow after the show.
StEvEN tAI -
NERDS UNLEASHED
# Tom from SUPERIOR Magazine talked to Steven Tai regarding his fashion show at Mer-cedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin.
# Where do you get your inspiration from?
My inspiration comes often from personal experiences and emotions. A lot of it is a reflec-tion on nostalgia mixed with a slight sense of irony I believe. For example, the collection I sub-mitted for Hyeres reflects upon the love of books and the artistry behind bookbinding. Following my mother and father, I have always been a book lover since I was a kid. And as I was always a nerd growing up, I wanted to create a collection to celebrate my history and the art of books.
# How would you characterize your spring/summer 2013 collection?
Nerds unleashed from runway to the streets.
# What are your next projects?
I will be preparing for a shoe workshop in Majorca with Campers at the end of July. Also I will be participating as part of the Innovative Talents at the White Showroom in Milan in Sep-tember.
July 2012
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# What does ›Find me‹, the title of your Spring/Summer collection 2013, imply?
It really means that I want to be found. I’m looking for an answer from audience, press and buyers on the questions that I’m asking via my language, that is clothes.
# The eternal wideness of the sky as inspi-ration for your first collection, followed by the emperor penguin inspiring your second collec-tion. All good things come in threes. So, what inspired you this time?
The structures of corals: colourful, powerful, moving parts that are growing over limestone skeletons. In a way, this image is a representa-tion of the fashion scene, where new artists are making new things by being aware of and elabo-rating on everything that has already been done, using these things as a skeleton to grow flow-ers upon.
# Especially colours play an important role in your fashion. Can we look forward to a typical Sebastian Ellrich concept of colours again?
You can. This time I decided to use the five colours ivory, sand, deep red, bordeaux and man-darin in the five materials cotton twill, crêpe sat-in, georgette ,viscose jersey and lace.
SEbAStIAN ELLRICh -
fIND ME
# Elena Schröder talked for SUPERIOR Mag-azine to Sebastian Ellrich regarding his fashion show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin.
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# Because of your simple and elegant fashion you are often compared to Jil Sander's daugh-ters. How do you relate to that? Is your fashion inspired by her?
We value the work of Jil Sander who is a grandiose designer. Our designs might talk to the same kind of women: modern, active, sensi-ble to the quality of designs and materials. We do believe our Label has an individual quality.
PERREt SChAAd -
ALOIS# Elena Schröder talked for SUPERIOR Mag-azine to Perret Schaad regarding their fashion show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin.
# Most of the designers start creating their collection by drawing. You prefer to drape first. What do you like about this technique?
We love draping because it is a technique that allows to discover new volumes and lines that we could not have sketched. It is a very nat-ural and beautiful way to understand the fall of a fabric. In our design of our collections we val-ue the intuitive process and draping is part of it.
# All of your designed pieces have names of men you know. How is your favourite of this season called and what makes him so special?
It is called ALOIS and it is made of a hand-woven textile. What we love about it is that its organized patterns behave as a texture and its fall is organic and wild.This tells very well about our interest for tradition and handcraft and the will always to innovate.
DESIGNER PORtRAIt
July 2012
Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin Spring/Summer 2013
pErrET SCHAAD © Mercedes-Benz Fashion
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