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    SUBMITTED BY: -Mr. Bhavin Mehta

    PROJECT GUIDE: -

    Mr. Parshuram

    MITHIBAI COLLEGE OF ARTS, CHAUHAN INSTITUTE OF SCIENCE & AMRUTBENJIVANLAL COLLEGE OF COMMERCE AND ECONOMICS

    Juhu Scheme, Vile Parle (W), Mumbai -400 056.

    Tel: 26184354 / 26184355 Fax: 26130441

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    CERTIFICATE.This is to certify that the report for

    PRODUCTION MANAGEMENT

    Submitted by

    Mr. Bhavin Mehta

    Embodies the bonafide work done at

    RAYMOND TEXTILES(Worsted Suiting Division)

    by him under my guidance and supervision

    Date: Prof. Neela Nair(H O D)

    This report has been examined as per the requirements at Mithibai

    Date: Prof. Parshuram

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    PREFACE.

    I take an opportunity to present this synopsis report on production of worsted

    suitings and put before readers some useful information regarding my project.

    I have made sincere attempts and taken every care to present this matter in precise

    and compact form, the language being as simple as possible.

    I are sure that the information contained in this volume would be certainly prove

    useful for better insight in the scope and dimension of this subject in its true

    perspective and I have taken care of the fact that God lies in detail

    I are trying our best in our task of completing this project and I hope due to our

    involvement, I will be able to carry it out successfully.

    Success is how high you bounce, when you hit the bottom.

    Mr. Bhavin Mehta.

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    TABLE OF CONTENTS.

    1. COMPANY PROFILE.

    2. HISTORICAL BACKGROUND.

    3. ENVIRONMENT.

    4. PLANT LAYOUT.

    5. PRODUCTION OF WORSTED SUITING.

    COMBING.

    SPINNING

    WEAVING

    DYEING

    6. FINISHING DEPARTMENT.

    7. INSPECTION & R&D

    8. QUALITY CHECK

    9. KAIZEN.

    10. CONCLUSION.

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    INTRODUCTION

    Raymond is amongst the first three fully integrated manufacturers in thebusiness of Worsted suiting in the world. It is recognised as the mostrespected textile Company of India. As the flag-bearer of the multi-product, multi-divisional Raymond Group, it enjoys over 60% share ofIndian Worsted Suiting Market. It produces 25 million metres of high-valuepure-wool, wool blended and premium polyester viscose suiting in additionto half a million blankets and shawls, all marketed under the flagshipbrand "Raymond" - a worldwide trusted name since 1925. It also producesand markets plush-velvet furnishing fabric in wide array of designs andcolours including carpeting for the niche markets of India and Middle East.Manufacturing facilities include three world-class fully integrated plants in

    India, employing state-of-the-art technology from wool scouring to finishingstage and modern quality management (ISO 9001) as well asEnvironment Control Systems (ISO 14001). All the plants are self-sufficient in terms of providing educational, housing, recreation andspiritual support system for the employees and connected townships.Products are distributed through about 300 exclusive retail shops in Indiaand surrounding countries, 30,000 multi-brand retail outlets and over 100wholesale distributors. In addition to Middle East and SAARC countries, itsproducts are sold to discerning customers in over 60 countries includingpremium fashion labels all over the world.

    HISTORYAround the time the Singhania family was building, consolidating andexpanding its various businesses in Kanpur, one Mr. Wadia, was in asimilar manner engaged in fulfilling his dream: he set up a small woollenmill in the area around Thane creek, 40 kms away from Bombay. This millwas soon acquired by the Sassoons, a well-known industrialist family ofBombay, who renamed it as The Raymond Woollen Mills.

    When the Singhanias were looking for newregions to establish their presence and new fieldsto venture into, they concurred that textilesappeared to hold promise. A piece of information

    that a woollen mill was available on the outskirtsof Bombay clinched the issue.When the grandson of Lala Juggilal, LalaKailashpat Singhania took over Raymond in1944, the mill was primarily making cheap andcoarse woollen blankets, and modest quantities oflow priced woollen fabrics.

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    The vision and foresight of Mr. Kailashpat Singhania helped greatly inestablishing the J.K. Groups presence in the western region. Under his

    able stewardship, Raymond embarked upon a gradual phase oftechnological upgradation and modernisation producing woolen fabrics ofa far superior quality.Under Mr. Gopalakrishna Singhania, the mill became a world-class factoryand the Raymond brand became synonymous with fine quality woolenfabrics. At Raymond, quality did not rest on its laurels. When Dr. VijayapatSinghania took over the reins of the company in 1980, he injected freshvigour into Raymond, transforming it into a modern, industrialconglomerate. His son Mr. Gautam Hari Singhania, the present chairmanand managing director has been instrumental in restructuring the Group.With the divestment of the Synthetics, Steel and Cement divisions he

    initiated, the Group has emerged stronger with a better bottom line, morefocused approach, become market oriented and achieved a consolidatedposition.Today, the woolen mill by the creek has turned into a Rs. 1400 croresconglomerate and is Indias leading producer of worsted suiting fabric with60% market share. It is also the largest exporter of worsted fabrics andreadymade garments to 54 countries including Australia, Canada, USA,the European Union and Japan. The Raymond group is also the leaderamong ready-mades in India with a turnover of Rs. 2000 million with itsthree brands Park Avenue, Parx and Manzoni.

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    ECO-FRIENDLY

    One of the theoretical aspects of production, which we have learnt but isnot considered much in the textile industry, is the pollution control. InRaymonds, I have learnt that huge companies do not only think of fillingthey pockets but are very much in the unsaid code of conduct. TheRaymonds factory has been made environmental friendly where they keepa track of the pollution created by the factory. They have the mostadvanced machineries to provide them a better efficiency less wastageand contrary less pollution is created. Here below is one of the charts thatshow the pollution level of the company.

    ENVIRONMENT CHECK

    Parameters(As per Govt. Norms)

    Units Average1 2

    PH 5.5 9 7.65 7.9TSS 10/MG LT 22 18COD 250/MG LT 181 172BOD 100/MG LT 66 40OIL & GREESE 10/MG LT 3.3 1.0

    TOTAL URANIUM 2 0.3 NILSULHPHIDES 2 NIL NILPHENOLIC COMPD 1 0.17 .43

    Some harmful chemicals created during the process are dumped atTHANE CREEK under the supervision and in lawful measurement.Raymonds has quite a big infrastructure created at THANE. The ceilingsare at a quite a long range to provide enough space for fresh air to comein. There are trees being grown in the surrounding to keep thetemperature controlled. They have the best of machines which help themon high noise elimination. In my trip I have come to an observation that

    Raymonds do believe in Getting the Best Technology. The machinesthat Raymonds are presently using are the most efficient and updatedmachineries. The have they laboratories where process innovation is themain criteria.

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    PLANT LOCATION

    Raymonds has selected the plant location in THANE. According to methis is an ideal location as it has the following benefits.

    Easy Access for the workers and factory member as the plant islocated near the highway and few minutes from the railway station.

    Transport facilities are easy hence benefiting the people at work,transportation of raw material, finished goods etc.

    The raw materials are mainly imported from outside and Mumbaibeing the import port it has easy access of material.

    It is easier to provide the finished goods to Raymond outlets as thetransportation facilities are excellent.

    The waste material dumping is done at Thane Creek; it is nearbyhence it is more cost effective.

    Mumbai is the ideal place for worsted suiting as Mumbai has one ofthe ideal moisture levels for the production.

    Skillful and unskillful laborers are available at affordable salarypackages in Thane.

    Mumbai being a cosmopolitan market it becomes favorable for thecompany to get inputs faster and create a market of the product.

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    PRODUCTION OF WORSTED SUITING

    The Production System of Raymonds is divided into mainly four divisionviz. Combing, Spinning, Weaving & Dyeing

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    COMBING

    DEPARTMENT

    RAYMONDS-

    PRODUCTIO

    N SYSTEM

    DYEING

    DEPARTMENT

    SPINNING

    DEPARTMENT

    WEAVING

    DEPARTMENT

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    COMBING DEPARTMENT

    In the Combing Department, the process starts with the Greasy woolwhich is more furnished and tends to convert into tops which is taken toDyeing department. This process is diagrammatically explained below.

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    WOOL

    SCOURING

    DRYING

    OILING

    GILLING

    COMBING

    WOOL TOPS

    TOP DYEING

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    RAW MATERIAL

    WOOLThe processing of wool involves four major steps. First comes shearing,followed by sorting and grading, making yarn and lastly, making fabric.The wool used in making suiting in mainly imported from differentcountries like New Zealand, South Africa and major wool is imported fromAustralia (90%). In the suiting process Marino Wool is used at a very largeextent. It originated from Spain and it was declared a priced possession bythe Spain that it was a capital offense to export wool. Marino sheepproduces the best wool. The staple is relatively short ranging from 1 to 5but fiber is strong. The wool is tested before export by Australian WoolTesting Authority (AWTA).

    Characteristics:

    Natural, Animal Fiber

    Comfortable

    Versatile

    Lightweight

    Good insulator

    Washable

    Wrinkle-resistant

    Absorbent

    Easy to dye

    Warmth Effect

    Wool Quality Check

    Length : 50-70mmAverage Length : 60 mmFineness : 17.5-24.5 micronsAverage Fineness : 21 micronsCrease Content : 12.37%Vegetable Matter : 1-2%Moisture : 16-18%Bale Weight : 450 Kgs ApproxBale Size : 56 by 30 by 30.

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    CAMEL HAIRCamel hair fabrics can be said as an idealcomfort, particularly when used for suitingfabrication, as they are especially warm but lightin weight. Strength, luster and smoothness

    characterize camel hair. The best quality isexpensive when used alone so it is often mixedwith wool, thus raising the quality of the woolfabric by adding the fine qualities of camel hair. In some fabrics, whichtend to be of high quality have 100% camel hair other than that it is mixedto be in an affordable price.

    MOHAIRMohair is the hair of an Angora goat, which used to be native of Angorawhere it got its name but now it is found in abundant is South Africa andthe United States mainly in California and Texas. The Texas mohair is

    regarded as an excellent quality raw material. Its a long staple, 9-12 inch[230-300mm] long and represents a full years growth . The domestic fiberhas a goat amount to coarse, stiff hair, known as Kemp which does notprocess readily or allow through penetration of dye. Mohair is a smooth,strong and resilient fiber. It does not attract or hold dirt particulars andtends to absorbs dye evenly and permanently. Its used in giving finedecoration. Mohair fiber is more uniform in diameter than wool fiber. Theyare wrinkle resistant and is stronger that wool of other fibers.CASHMEREThe Cashmere goat has originated from the great Himalayas mountains

    region of Kashmir in India, Mongolia and china. The fleece of this goat haslong, straight, coarse outer hair of little value, however, the small quantityof under hair or down is made into luxuriously soft wool like yarns with thecharacteristics highly napped one of its characteristics is that it is notsheared from the goat but is obtained by frequent combings during theshedding season. It has all the qualities of mohair and is used as an add-on with mohair hair.

    ALPACAIn the higher regions of the Andes, 14,000 ft (4250mt) above sea level, isfound another fleece bearer, Alpaca, and a domesticated animal thatresembles the llama and is related to the camel. The fiber is valued for itssilky beauty as well as for its strengths. The hair of the alpaca is strongerthan ordinary sheeps wool is water repellent, and has a high insulativequality.

    The staple is relatively long, ranging from 6 to 11 (150-250 mm) yet it isas delicate, soft and lustrous as the finest silk. A more highly selected typeof alpaca is suri, a super breed just as the Merino is the highest type of

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    sheep. It is used in the making of the finest fabrics like the presidentialcollection.

    ANGORAThen Angora rabbit produces long, fine, silky white hair that is clipped or

    combed every 3-4 months. The finest Angora comes from France, Italy &Japan. The rabbit is also raised in many other parts of the world, includingthe U.S. The fibers smooth, silky texture makes it different to spin and thefibers tend to slip out of the yarn and shed from the fabric; neverthelessthe fiber is desired for its texture, warmth, light weight, and pure whitecolor, although it is sometimes dyed in pastel shades.

    SILKSilk is the very fine strand of fiber. It is a solidified Protein secretionproduced by certain caterpillars to encase themselves in the form ofcocoons, silk and wool is usually blended on a worsted system, producing

    a fine, tong yarn. It is one of the important materials used in the process.The fabric may have a soft sheen. They are light weighing, resilient,durable and drape well, silk wool blends are used for such apparel assuits, particularly summer weights. Silk provides strength and absorbency.Silk reduces weight and adds good hand.

    MAN-MADE FIBRES USED:VISCOSE RAYONA rayon fiber is composed of pure cellulose, the substance of which thecell walls of such woody plants as trees and cotton are largely comprised.

    We are more familiar with cellulose in the form of such product as paper.

    Rayon fibers are made from cellulose that has been reformed, orregenerated; consequently, these fibers are identified as regeneratedcellulose fibers.

    POLYESTERPolyesters are made from chemical substances found mainly inpetroleum. Polyester fibers are strong, tough materials that aremanufactured in a variety of colors, shapes and sizes. They are mixedwith wool to make the fabric more cost effective.

    They are found mainly in 2 categories

    Normal Polyester : The variety of polyester has good tenacity andmoderate luster

    Low Pill Polyester : Due to its low tenacity this variety show lowerpilling tendency in fabrics

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    Polyester is supplied from two major companies.

    Indian Organic Chemicals limited (IOC)

    Reliance Industries Limited (RIL)

    GENERAL INFORMATION

    1 Bale weight (Kg)=180-2002 Density (lb/ft3)=17.63 Average length=68 mm4 Package size (inch) =36*30*305 Average finest = 22.56 Grease content= 22-30%7 Yield%=65-708 Vegetable matter= 2.0-0.5%

    9 Scales/inch= 4200-480010 Moisture content= 18%11 RI ()= 1.54

    SORTINGSorting can be defined as dividing the fleeces of wool manually intovarious qualities according to the process requirement. Sorting divides thefleeces of wool into various mixtures on the basis of the fineness of length.This process of sorting is no longer carried out in Raymond since it is noteconomically viable and also manpower is needed more and it is very timeconsuming.

    Earlier the sorting operation was done in Raymond only. But now thebales that are imported are sorted already and the sorting department iseliminated permanently. The bale number, weight of bale, quality is writtenon the bale cover and when bales are come they are weigh and taken tostore in the scouring department and storage. So the bales are nowdirectly fed to scouring (wool washing) machines.

    SCOURING

    The principles underlying the scouring of wool or other material is purifyingsubstance under the conditions employed with a minimum harmful effecton the textile material. Wool scouring is the process of washing wool inalkaline solution, soda mixture and hot water to remove the non-woolcontaminants and then drying it. It has always been an important step inthe wool processing train.

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    A growing concern for the environment has led to increased demands onthe scouring process. Pollution load associated with conventionalemulsion scouring of greasy wool is extremely high entanglement orfelting results in fiber breakage during carding, gilling, and combing andhas two bad effects: it reduces the mean fiber length in the resultant top

    and decreases the combing tear or the ratio of top to noel.

    The tanks are allocated in such a position that the procedure is done onan automatic base and are allocated on a permissible distance andattached to each other. The first tank consists of soda mixture and alkalinesolution the other two tanks preceding the first tank are of detergent.Silvotex A is mainly used in the procedure.

    Here the wool is cleaned intensively to reduce the maximum amount ofimpurities present in the wool. The last two tanks are extensively used forrinsing, in this procedure the detergent used in the previous tank is

    washed away and the wool tends to float above the water. During theprocess the wool tends to turn whiter and whiter while the impurities areseparated.

    DRYINGAfter the scouring process is done the drying process comes into phasehere the rinsed wool tends to dry but is not allowed to become absolutelydry. Usually about 12 to 16% of the moisture is left in the wool to conditionit for subsequent handling. On an overall there are 8 dryers to do theprocess. One subsequent process takes around 12 minutes.

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    BLOCK DIAGRAM OF WOOL WASHING MACHINETANK NO.: I V

    DUST,

    SODA ASH-REMOVES OIL AND SUINT

    DET-DUST, DIRT, FOREIGN MATTER, SAND

    WATER-RINSING AND REMOVAL OF DET

    Technical Inputs

    Efficiency of the machine tends to differ anywhere from 40%-80%. Production around 400 - 450 kgs/hr.

    Dirty water drainage is after every 15 mins.

    Maximum capacity around 6000lts.

    Water Temperature around 55 to 60 C.

    Dryer Temperature around 85 to 110 c

    Impurities removed around 25% to 28%

    Moisture Content removed around 25% to 30%

    OILINGAs wool is unmanageable after scouring, the fiber is usually treated withvarious oils such as 60% wool oil and 40% antistatic agent to keep it frombecoming brittle and to lubricate for spinning operation. As for theseprocess is very important oiling tends to help the fiber from not becominghard or else it tends to break faster.

    CARDINGOnce wool has been scoured, it will have been carded before it can bespun into yarn. Carding is a process that passes the wool through a seriesof rollers covered with fine bristles or fine wire teeth. This process is toremove impurities such as burr, vegetable matters, dust, dirt (heavier thanwool), to enable blending of various fibres and evening it out and toconvert random bulk of fibres into rope like form called a sliver. Itseparates the wool out from tangles, clumps and staples and lays thefibers parallel and formed into a fine web. Sliver wrapping is checked afterevery 2 hrs.

    FEEDINGUNIT

    BALE

    BREAKER

    ISoda

    Ash

    II

    DET

    III

    DET

    IV

    Water

    V

    Water

    Dryer Delivery

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    This process is mainly done resulting to the following:

    Opening of flocks to individual fibres

    Elimination of remaining impurities (trash particles)

    Elimination of short fibres

    Untangling the fiber Dust removal

    High degree of longitudinal orientation of the fibres

    GILLINGGilling has three main functions:

    It aligns the fibres approximately parallel in the sliver;

    It thins down a thick sliver so that it can be handled in a spinningframe; and,

    It blends the wool by combining several slivers into a single one.

    Gilling is mainly done to paralyze the fibre so that the fiber tends tobecome more thinner. As of this process the weight reduction occurs inthe sliver. A needle tends to penetrates through material it paralyses thematerial and the material becomes parallel its done 5 times to removeknots.

    There are several types of gill box. However, very simply, a gill box hastwo sets of rollers and the slivers are dragged from one to another througha series of moving combs. The feed rollers pick up the slivers and the

    delivery rollers rotate at a far faster speed, drawing out the combinedslivers into a thinner single sliver.Pins are pushed into the sliver and move forward at an even speed withthe fibres to control the acceleration of the fibres between the sets ofrollers. When the pins are first thrust into the sliver, the feed rollers are stillgripping the fibres. The pins are drawn through the fibres and comb them.

    COMBINGHere Worsted yarns are spun from longer (three inches and longer) fibersthat have been carded, combed and drawn. Combing machines furtherstraighten the Wool sliver making the individual fibers lie parallel. The

    combing process also eliminates noils or shorter fibers which growmostly on the belly of the sheep. (Noils are used in the production of lessexpensive woolen fabrics and for the manufacturing of felt, a non-wovenwool fabric). The wool tops created after these weigh around 8.5kg.

    This process mainly tends to do the below:

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    During the process of the wool undergoing the procedures of combing andgilling simultaneously the PET FIBER and PET TOW undergo the sameprocedure as seen in the below flow chart the procedure is donefrequently as at Raymonds they have a motto of creating they material atperfection.

    RELIANCE Polyster (PET)

    Polyester TowPolyester tow can be broadly defined as a bundle of filaments that arecontinuous in length. These filaments are essentially non-annealed.The worsted mills process the polyester tow on a machine called 'Tow toTop Converter'. This cuts the tow into variable cut length fibres in the formof sliver.

    Followed by a gilling process that yields a more uniform sliver which is

    then packaged in the form of a ball called Polyester Tops.These polyester tops are then blended with wool tops and spun toproduce polyester woolen blended yarn, which are subsequently woveninto polywool-blended fabrics.

    CONVERTERThe continuous filament tow is fed to a converter and is cut into stapleform as per requirement so that it can be used to spun a staple yarn or asliver can be used for blending with other fiber so the tow is thanconverted into a staple sliver coiled in can. These can further be used forblending with other fibers.

    Straighten up the fibres;

    Lay the fibres parallel;

    Remove tangles (neps);

    Remove short fibres around 8

    to 10% Remove vegetable matter.

    To lay the sliver into cans.

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    COMBING DEPARTMENT FLOWCHART

    -Greasy wool

    Direct Bale Blending

    Scouring

    Grey Combing

    Wool Bump Top

    Hydro Extractor

    R. F. Dryer

    Top Dyeing

    Defelting

    Grey CombingGrilling ( 4 )Grilling ( 5)

    Back Washing

    Opening Gilling

    Carding

    Gilling (1)

    Gilling (2)

    Gilling (3)

    Gilling (4)

    Gilling (5)

    PET Fiber

    Carding

    Gilling (1)

    Gilling (2)

    Poly Bump Top

    PET Tow

    Converter

    Gilling (1)

    Gilling (2)

    Gilling (2)

    Poly Bump Top

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    Final Recombed Bump Top(Delivery to Spinning

    Department)

    Defelting

    Gilling(1)

    Gilling(2)

    Gilling(3)

    Gilling(4)

    Gilling(5)

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    TOP DYEING PROCESS (POT DYEING MACHINE)

    Dyed loose tops may have to withstand both scouring and gilling. Since these aredrastic processes, the dyes that can be used are limited to those possessing a highdegree of fastness to wet treatments. Piece dyed materials have usually only towithstand relatively mild finishing processes, so the dyes used need not beespecially fast to wet treatments, and light and bright shades can be produced.

    Brightness of shades, fastness to light and ease of application can be obtained fairlycheaply, but bright shades possessing all-round fastness usually require moreexpensive dyes which are less level dyeing and so are best applied at an earlierstage, Piece dyeing may also be impracticable on other grounds. Thus, with heavilymilled materials, e.g. naval over coatings, piece dyeing would not give satisfactory

    penetration and permanent creases might be produced, so loose wool dyeing isnecessary.

    Dyeing in the loose state is also necessary for mixture yarns or cloths, although forthe latter the wool may be dyed in yarn form. When dyeing loose wool (and slubbing)perfectly even distribution of the dye is not essential, because the subsequentcarding operation produce an even mixture of fibers, so less dyeing dyes with highfastness to wet treatments can be used. Loose wool dyeing is preferred in casewhere there is no special demand for high fastness to wet treatments.

    In the dyeing procedure first the material is loaded and water is fed to the machine.

    The chemicals are added and the machine runs for 10 min. Pre-dissolved dyestuff isadded and the machine runs for another 10 min.The temp is raised to 98 C at the heating rate of 1.5 C/min. At 98 C after half houracetic acid or formic acid is added for complete exhaustion of the dyestuff. Dyeingprocess is continued for another half hour. The remaining liquor is allowed to drainthe material is cooled by circulating water than the material is taken out kept fordrying and taken for color matching.

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    HYDROEXTRACTORThe use of thermal energy in drying is expensive and a pre-requisite to any thermal

    drying process is mechanical. The common principles involved for removingmoisture are centrifuging or suction. Hydroextractors with gliding supports canbe used for all forms of wool textiles.

    R.F.DRYER

    After hydroextractor, the dyed tops are sent to the Radio frequency Dryer or Back-washing. A radio frequency heating system the RF generator creates an alternatingelectric field between two electrodes. The material to be heated is conveyedbetween the electrodes where the alternating energy causes polar molecules in thematerial to continuously reorient them to face opposite poles much like the way barmagnets behave in an alternating magnetic field. The friction resulting frommolecular movement causes the material to rapidly heat throughout its entire mass.

    The main objective of Radio Frequency dryer is used to dry the top dyed material. Itis used for light and medium shades of polyester material and light shades of woolafter the hydroextractor. The dryer has a top plate, which acts as an electrode, and itgenerates radio frequency energy, which splits the water molecules from the dyedtops into H+, and OH-ions and they begin to oscillate. This causes evaporation ofwater and drying is carried out. The speed at which the conveyor in the dryer runs isdifferent for both wool and PET.

    Technical Inputs

    For wool, speed of the conveyer is 4 m/min.For PET, speed of the conveyer is 5 m/min.After Hydroextractor Moisture content=6%After RF dryer Moisture content=4% (For wool and polyester)Hydro extractor: It is used to remove excess water.

    COMPUTER COLOR MATCHING:As the sample is ready it is taken to the sample department where the color

    matching process is done. Here computer color matching system is followedSPECTROPHOTOMETER. It is used to know the details about the fiber /fabric. SEQUENCE FOLLOWED FOR COLOR MATCHING:

    Dyeing

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    Colour Matching

    Approved by Deputy Manager of Dyeing

    Approved by Senior Manager of Dyeing

    Combing

    Final combed Samples

    Colour Matching

    Approved by Deputy Manager of Dyeing

    Approved by Senior Manager of Dyeing

    Final Sample Is Checked by Dyeing General Manager (Combing) &Senior Manager of Quality Control

    Final Sample

    Spinning

    CENTRAL LABORATORYThe central laboratory mainly functions for all kinds of testing, both physical andchemical. Testing of the material is done in the fibers & yarn.

    DEVELOPMENT DEPARTMENTFour samples are made according to the requirement and the one, which matchesthe most, is sent to the party for their approval. However to cater to the needs of the

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    domestic market designated as civil market colour of the dyed fibers are matchedwith that of the fabric.

    Steps Followed

    Imported samples is checked for count, shade etc (Generally two warp andtwo weft yarns are taken)

    Accordingly four samples are prepared i.e. A, B, C, D.

    The samples, which matches with the sample sent, by the party is send backfor the approval.

    DYES USED IN TOP DYEING

    ACID MODERANT DYES:These are sodium salt of sulfonic acid. They are generally applied in presence oforganic & inorganic acids. Hence they are called acid dyes. These dyes used when

    good washing fastness is considered. These are mainly used for wool, silk & proteinfiber.

    METAL COMPLEX DYES:Metal complex dyes contain metal complex in their structure, hence they are calledmetal complex dyes. These dyes need not required any chemical salt duringapplication.

    In RAYMOND mills two types of metal complex dyes are used:1) 1:2 metal complex dyes.2) Modified metal complex dyes.

    CHROME DYES:These dyes are capable of forming co-ordinate complex with heavy metal. Thesedyes are related to acid dyes but during application oleum salt are added as amordant. In this mill sodium bicarbonate can be used as moderating agent. Thesedyes are used in wool dyeing only.

    TOPS FROM COMBING DEPT.

    Conditioning 24 48 hrs

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    SPINNING DEPARTMENT

    CONDITIONING ROOM:The material from the combing department i.e. the recombed tops come to theconditioning room. In this room, humidity and temperature are maintained. Humidity

    = 85%. The tops are conditioned for 3-4 days to remove static charges in thematerial. After conditioning the materials is taken for spinning process.

    To avoid flying fibers as some fibers absorb moisture, they tend to sticktogether making the handling easier.

    To prevent loose fiber from combing out.

    The forces of friction are absorbed to a certain limit by the water in the fibersavoiding damage to the parts of the machine and the fibres themselves.

    SPINNING

    COUNTTHE

    SPUN IFFINER

    Gilling 1,2,3,4 Gilling 1,2,3,4

    RubbingFM 7N

    RubbingFM 5P

    Spinning Frame

    RovingFrame

    NO YES

    Steaming

    Winding

    Yarn Room

    Ply Winding

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    After conditioning, 4 gilling passage are given to the material.

    RUBBING FRAME (FM-7N):There are two types of rubbing frames in the spinning section i.e. FM-7N and FM-5P. The coarser material goes to rubbing frame (FM-7N) and directly goes to the

    ring frame. The finer material goes to the intermediate rubbing frame (FM-5P), thengoes to roving frame and then to the ring frame.

    PROCESS SEQUENCE:Two ends are fed to the rubbing frame and these two individual ends are wound onthe single package, which reduces material handling. The sliver is passed throughthe feed rollers and through the drafting system. Drafting part is of the double aprontype. The bottom apron is plain rubber rolling along a cast iron table. Top apron isalso of the same type and the fiber control is sit weighted. As the slubbing emergesfrom the nip of the rubbing rollers, each of which runs on endless leather bands,from the rubbers the roving passes through a funnel is then wound on the bobbin.

    RUBBING FRAME (FM 5P):It is a modern machine that eliminates the intermediate fly frame maching. Theobject of this frame is to deliver the slivers of less wrapping by drafting.

    ADVANTAGES OF INTERMEDIATE RUBBING FRAME (FM 5P)

    The delivered material is in the sliver form; it can be collected in cans. Sowinding & twisting are eliminated.

    Due to zero twist in the sliver, fly frame runs at a higher speed

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    ROVINGThe finer material is passed through the roving frame from which the roving is fed tothe ring frame. Before the roving frame the finer material is passed throughintermediate rubbing frame FM5.

    PROCESS SEQUENCEThe sliver from the can is passed over the guide & then through the drafting system.The drafting system comprises of 2/2 (2 over 2) system as shown in the figure. Theslivers are passed through the draft system taking care that a small tuft projectbeyond the draft roller. Delivery container is place between the draft apron and thefront roller. Then the roving is passed through the hollow flyer arm and through thepressing finger on the bobbin. On the roving frame BM 14 there is an automaticcycle which consists of:

    Auto resting i.e. the winding up variation and programmer.

    Positioning the flyer for easier removal of the bobbin.

    Forming a reverse of the roving for picking up of the new bobbin.

    Separating the bobbin from the spindles so as to remove them from themachine.

    RING SPINNING

    Objective of Ring Frame

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    To draft the roving into a yarn of specified fineness as indicated by the countno.

    To insert sufficient twist in the yarn to bind the fibres together so that it canwithstand the strain in later processes.

    To wind the twisted fibres on a bobbin to form a compact package.

    MAXIMUM SPINDLES SPEED IS FOUND BY USING THE FOLLOWINGFORMULAE:

    Spindle speed (rpm) = Traveller Speed (Inch/min.)

    Ring Dia (inch) X 60 X80

    STEAMINGTo allow stress and relaxing and twist setting in the yarn. So the bundle of fiber istwisted about its longitudinal axis. Due to its elastic nature it set back and thusbecomes live which can snarl when tension is released. So, by steaming at hightemperature these tensional forces are neutralized and yarn is heat set so that it canbe processed without trouble.For steaming, ring bobbins are kept in an aluminum trolley and placed in anautoclave as per yarn quality.

    AUTOWINDING

    Removal of yarn faults such as thin and thinplaces and to improve the yarn quality andsubsequently reduce yarn breakages.

    Rewinding of ring frame bobbins to a largerpackage, which is useful for further processing.

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    QUALITY CHECKFour bobbins from each machine are taken and checked for X% and wrapping. Forwrapping 1 meter of roving is taken. Along with this TPM is also checked. Bystretching the rove between the two points, it is required that fiber must be separatedor come out without applying high tension. This is the sign as that required and

    optimum twist X% is between 4.0-4.2%

    PLY WINDINGAs at least two parallel yarns are required at TFO for twisting and winding packagehas only a single end. At ply winding the two or more single yarns are taken fromthose many numbers of package and are wound on a package, which can be fed toTwo For One Twister(TFO).

    TWO FOR ONE TWISTER

    AT FABRIC STAGE

    To obtain higher stability against wear. To obtain improvement in the fabric roller.

    To obtain good handle and visual characteristic.

    AT YARN STAGE

    To improve the evenness.

    To improve the strength and elongations.

    To improve buster and abrasion resistance

    Textile Engineerperforming QualityCheck.

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    YARN ROOM

    After twisting & steaming, the yarn from the spinning department comes to the yarnroom. The object of the yarn room is: -

    To store the yarn. To note the necessary data about the stored yarn.

    To provide warp yarn for warping.

    To provide weft yarn for weaving.

    To store the remnants of the weaving department.

    ACTIVITIES CARRIED OUT IN THE YARN ROOMAfter spinning & doubling the yarn, the PPD department & yarn room in chargechecks the yarn particulars. Only the correct yarn is given entry in the yarn roomaccording to the correct shade no., lot no. Etc. The yarn is weighed & entered in thecomputer.

    There are in all 7 bins for storing the yarn. The yarn bundles are kept on the trolleys& the trolleys are kept in a particular bin. The humidity in the yarn room is the sameas in TFO twister. The quantity of yarn required for warping is given to the yarn roomby the warping section. The yarn is weighed and a receipt is given to the yarn room.For the warp yarn a white dispatch receipt is used while for the loom shed a yellowdispatch receipt is used. A total of 300 400 kg of yarn is to be sent to the warpingsection.

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    WEAVING DEPARTMENT

    WARPINGWarping is carried out to convert the predetermined package such as a cone orcheese into a sheet of yarn of specified length and width. This process is done to

    convert cheese cones into weaver beams. Weaver Beams are particularly used inwarping process.

    MATERIAL HANDLINGTrolleys to warping department carry the cheese or cones, which are taken fromyarn room as per requirements. After reeling and when beam is produced it iscarried on a trolley and stored in the department. Only the remaining packages areagain carried to yarn room by trolleys and are stored there.

    Individual ends in the warp are uniformly spaced across the spaced width. Warpingcan be done in 2 ways.

    1. Sectional Warping.2. Direct Beam Warping

    In RAYMOND (Worsted mill), sizing operation is omitted, as all the yarns aredoubled and have got a good resistance and are strong sufficiently. To getresistance wax is applied at warping. There are some another advantages of doingsectional warping, which are followed here over beam warping.

    Space required is less as compared to beam warping.

    Yarn breakages can be easily located.

    Time required is less due to the less no. Of ends.

    Fancy structures like rib; stripes etc. can be produced in the cloth.

    For e.g. in sectional warping, if we want to produce a beam of 4000 ends then 10sections each of 400 ends can be made so as to get the required total of 4000 ends.

    DRAWING INIn weaving, it is necessary to space the warp threads properly in order to get therequired compactness of the cloth. This is affected by passing the warp yarn throughthe dents of the reed of appropriate count so that the cloth woven from the warp maycontain the required no. of threads. Passing the warp threads through the drop wires9warp stop motion), a process known as DRAWING IN carries out heald wires and

    the dents of the reed.

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    WEAVING PROCESSWeaving is the basic department for preparing a fabric by interlacement of warp andweft yarns. There are various looms for weaving available in the textile industry. InRAYMONDS LTD., there are two types of looms- projectile (SULZER RUTI) andrapier looms (RIGID DORNIER/

    FLEXIBLE NP)About 31000 meters of linear fabric is produced per day. There are total 112 loomsworking in three shifts. That means each loom is producing about 92 meters of fabricper shift. The number of machines according to make model and loom speed asgiven below:

    SULZER-RUTIThe Sulzer- Ruti i.e. projectile looms Are used for producing medium weight andheavier fabric such as trovin, supphire etc. while rapier looms are used for lightweight and finer fabrics of finer count upto 150 Nm. Raymond produces a widerange of suit fabric so it requires such a peculiar combination.

    The robust, practical, technologically advanced machine design has several keyadvantages:

    Gentle yarn handling - outstanding fabric quality Low weft wastage - substantial cost savings Short style-setting times - higher productivity Less maintenance - higher efficiency

    RAPIER WEAVING MACHINEIn Rapier looms, the weft insertion element resembles a rapier or a thin bladedstraight sword; hence the name Rapier Weaving. There are many varieties of Rapiersystems such as single, double, flexible, rigid, and telescopic and two phases. A

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    Rapier in its simplest form consists of a single rigid bar, solid or telescopic and adevice called gripper head screwed at its feed end. Here the control over the weft ispositive during the whole pick insertion cycle. The rapier may be also be of therigidrod type or flexible, made of metal or plastic tapes. Flexible tapes invariablyneed guide meters inside the shed which emerge during the pick insertion and sink

    back into the sley before beat-up. The Rigid rapiers which include telescopic typeremain suspended from the fulcrum and may get help from right upper warp sheet.

    FEATURES OF RAPIER WEAVING MACHINE

    Electronically controlled weft tensioner reduces the yarn tension especiallyduring insertion.

    Automatic package switching device prevents the machine from beingstopped in the even weft break between the package and weft feed. Theweavers can repair the fault while the machine is running and reactivate theunit that has been stopped.

    Electronically controlled warp let-off and cloth take up units ensure a highdegree of fabric regularity and prevents all kinds of start and stop marks.

    Grippers are redesigned to ensure better clamping of the yarn and preventrubbing against the warp yarns.

    Electronic monitoring control systems have simplified the communication withthe machine and facilitated its easy handling by any one concerned with theoperation of the machine.

    FABRIC DYEING DEPARTMENT

    FLOWCHART OF THE DEPARTMENT - PIECE DYEING

    GREY PERCHING AND MENDING

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    PIECE DYEING

    HYDRO EXTRACTION

    STENTERING

    PERCHING

    FINISHING

    GREY PERCHING AND MENDING:After weaving, the fabric is to be taken for perching to find out the faults like brokenends, picks, floats etc. These faults are then rectified on the mending machine.

    GENERAL INFORMATIONNo. of tables for perching and mending: 2No. of workers for perching and mending : 1/machine

    PIECE DYEING

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    The fabric after grey perching and mending is taken for dyeing process. In this mill,there are various piece dyeing machineries to dye the fabric. These machineries areas follows:

    JET DYEING MACHINE

    They are four types of Jet Dyeing Machines in Raymonds Brazzoli jet dyeing m/c

    Sanjay jet dyeing m/c

    Antares jet dyeing m/c.

    Calico jet dyeing m/c

    There are two types of piece dyeing:

    Open width form: Beam dyeing and Jigger dyeing

    Rope form: Over flow m/c

    In the case of open width form, piece is moving while in the rope form, both the

    piece and the liquor are moving and in the case of the jet overflow dyeing, the liquoris stationary and the piece is circulating.

    JET DYEING MACHINE

    BRAZZOLI JET DYEING MACHINE:In Raymonds, there is one Brazzoli dyeing m/c, which is used to dye all wool andpoly wool only. Here acid dyes, metal complex dyes and chrome dyes are used forall wool whereas disperse dyes are used for polyester only.The fabric piece has to be stitched together and fed to the machine. After completionthe dyeing, the pieces are unstitched, collected in a trolley and then carried to the

    next machine i.e. rope opener and hydro extractor.

    Technical Inputs

    Speed of Cloth : 60m/minLoading Capacity : 300kg.

    Volume : 3000-4500lt.

    PROCESS:In this process, before feeding the material into the machine all the requiredchemicals are mixed in the side tank as per requirement and stir it very well with thehelp of stirrer. Then material starts to feed into the machine that is called batching ofmaterial. During batching insert into the machine and the material in chemical for 10min. at room temp. Meanwhile take all the required dyes in dissolution tank and

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    dissolve it by constant stirring. After that insert the prepared dye into the machineand start the program. There are various program numbers that are done fordifferent type of material at different temp.

    SANJAY JET DYEING MACHINE:

    There are four jet dyeing machines in Raymonds mill, which are used to dye All-wool, poly-wool and sometimes poly-viscose too. The process carried ouy on Sanjay jet dyeing machine is same as Brazzoli jet dyeing machine. But the programnumbers for different qualities are different. These are as follows:

    M:L RATIO 1:14WEIGHT OF THE MATERIAL 150 KgVOLUME OF LIQUOR 2400 lt

    ANTARES JET DYEING MACHINE:This machine is same as Sanjay jet dyeing machine only with the difference as:

    M:L RATIO 1:12WEIGHT OF THE MATERIAL 150 KgVOLUME OF LIQUOR 2200 lt

    CALICO JET DYEING MACHINE:This machine is generally used for dyeing polyester part of a blend. The M:L Ratioused is 1:9. This machine consists of a venturi effect.

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    BEAM DYEING MACHINEThe fabric to be dyed has to be wound on the beam, which is done on batchingmachine. So batching is the preparatory process for beam dyeing.

    BATCHING MACHINE:

    Batching machine carries two functions: LOADING

    UNLOADING

    LOADINGIn loading, a perforated stainless steel beam is placed on its stand, which is rotated;in clockwise direction and the fabric is wrapped o it. The grey finished fabric that is tobe dyed is first passed over various guide rollers in fully open width and then throughthe trough containing boiling solution of the wetting agent, which decreases thewater repellency of the grey fabric and improve its absorbency. The fabric to be dyedis then stitched with about 5-10 m of cotton fabric. Then it is inserted in the beam

    dyeing machine.

    UNLOADINGAfter dyeing, the beam is taken out and it is then unloaded in the trolley to follow the

    further process. The fabric to be dyed is stitched with about 5-10 m of cotton fabricwhich serves the following functions:

    If the fabric is directly wound on the beam we will get the impression ofthe beam on the bottom layers of the fabric with dark spot.

    The grey cotton fabric acts as a filter for the dye liquor and thusprotects the inside fabric from uneven dyeing.

    JIGGER DYEING MACHINEThis machine is most suitable for dyeing of poly-viscose fabric where hot dyes areused for dyeing. It is also suitable for dyeing of cellulosic material because the dyesgenerally dont exhaust well and the jigger works with an exceedingly low liquorratio. This machine consists of a trough (stainless steel) above which two rollers aremounted.In Raymonds woolen mill, there are two types of jigger machines:

    Open jigger machine

    Closed jigger machineIn both the jigger machines, the cloth to be dyed is wound in the open width on oneof the rollers. About 450-600 m of cloth can be dyed at a time. The pieces of the

    cloth (about two pieces) are stitched at a time at the two ends of the batch of thecloth. These are called end pieces. The batch is unwound around small guide rollersand wound on the other rollers. The dye solution is placed in the trough, which isprovided with the means of heating (closed or perforated steam pipes) as well aswater inlet and outlet tubes.

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    FINISHING

    CHECK ROOMThe check room is provided to check the fabric structure and faults in the fabricaccording to the piece tick to pass further. The fabric width which is less than 10mm

    of the reed length is tolerated. A Max half hour is required to check the sample. Ifany fault occurs in the fabric then a memo is send to the quality control department.Workers: 3 workers/shift (3 shift) 1 in-charge of the check room.

    MENDING & PERCHINGAfter weaving the Fabric, it is to be mended & perched before finishing. In the

    mending section, mendable faults like broken end, picks, floats etc. arerectified. After mending & perching, the fabric is sent to the grey house wherethe finishing processes start. There are 153 tables for mending & 6 machinesfor perching. In 1 shift, one piece is mended per table.

    FINISHING PROCEDURE AFTER DYEINGTextile finishing is a term used for a series of processes to which all bleached,minted & certain grey fabric are subjected before they are put in the market.Finishing includes the final treatment of every kind of fabric.

    ObjectiveFinishing processes are carried are carried out to improve the natural properties ofthe fabric. The primary object of finishing is to enhance the quality of the cloth,imparting the woven fabric a specific appearance a specific appearance & handle inorder to make it attractive.

    The finishing department receives the fabric from the fabric dyeing department. Theprocesses of the finishing treatment differs according to the blends, shades etc.Finishing is carried out in two ways:

    BRUSHINGThe material either from weaving section or from dyeing section comes to the dryfinishing section for finishing purpose. For this material has to be through thebrushing machine first.

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    ObjectiveThe fabric is in the grey condition before finishing and to remove the dust particlesfrom the fabric, it is passed through a brushing machine. Brushing can also betermed as raising. Raising or brushing can be carried out to raise fibres surfacetermed as PILLS. Generally, the fabric is in the grey condition before finishing and

    to remove the dust particles from the fabric, it is passed through a brushing machine.In this machine, the fabric is passed through the brush rollers.The distinctive feature given to the cloth by raising is:

    Fibrous surface.

    Increased softness and fullness of handle..

    Concealment of the threads and weave effects.

    Subduing of the colours.

    Softening the outline of the pattern in figured styles.

    STENTERThe stenter can be used for heat setting, drying and resin treatment. Before passing

    the fabric through the heating chamber, it is passed through a tank containing waterand a softener. Pins on the conveyor grip the fabric properly before entering into thechamber. The drying chamber is heated by 10 coils. There are 10 blower fans toenhance the drying operation. Suction is provided for extracting the moisture. Forheat setting, the temperature of the chamber is kept about 185C and for drying it isaround 140C.

    After hydro extraction of the fabric, it remains about 30% moisture. If this type offabric is taken for perching and mending, then it will be very difficult to search verysmall defects from the fabric surface and will be very difficult to rectify certaindefects. Hence stentering must be carried out to dry the fabric 100%. Stentering of

    the fabric is carried out on stenters only.ADVANTAGES

    Imparting dimensional stability.

    Reducing tendency to creasing.

    Improving resistance to pilling.

    Achieving level dyeing and eliminating stain in the fabric.

    INSPECTION

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    Before dry finishing, the fabric is semi-inspected i.e., the faults in the fabric aremended after wet finishing. There are 3 perching machine in the wet section. Themachine used for inspection is known as perch. Perching consists of examining thecloth and marking with colored chalks. All imperfection should be eliminated insubsequent processes. The modern perch is designed so that the operator may give

    the cloth careful and through inspection with minimum efforts. The machine that iscontrolled either by a foot switch that can either start or stop the cloth instantly. Thecloth passes before the operator at full width and free of wrinkles.

    Inspection is made in two ways:

    The goods between the light and the inspection examining against thelight.

    Inspecting the surface of the goods only, with light on the goods. Theimportance has been given to perching for inspection purpose much morecommonly and regularly in Raymonds mill.

    DRY FINISHING

    SHEARINGThe object of shearing is to remove protruding fibres from the cloth surface and toeven out or level the fibre or neps which has been previously been rose. The amountof fiber to be cut from the surface of the fabric depends on the type of finish desired.This dry finishing operation is used on all woolen and worsted goods. The generalaim of shearing is to clear the surface of the cloth of surplus fibre and thereby bringout certain characteristics such as the design or colour pattern. Shearing is the mostimportant process in the dry finishing department. This process makes furtherprocess very easier and imparts goods sharpness on the surface.

    There are three shearing machines in Raymonds mill in the dry finishing section.

    RELAXINGIt is the process of artificially altering the moisture content of the fabric. In variablyconsist of addition of water in the form of liquid or vapor. Most of the textile fabriccan be plasticized by the presence of water vapour and unless they are soplasticized, most dry mechanical finishers are relatively ineffective. As the physicalproperties of the entire textile material varies largely with moisture content of thefabric. It is very important that conditioning and damping of the fabric should receiveattention before the fabric is subjected to an mechanical operation which dependson the pressure, friction and other forms of slight deformation for the material for its

    effect. It is done by blowing steam to the fabric.It is carried out for the following reasons:

    To bring the material to commercial standard regain.

    To improve fabric quality by eliminating stain and improving the handle.DAMPINGDamping is done for steaming and wetting purpose at 100C. The fabric is in the drycondition. To make it moist and smooth damping is carried out. Speed of themachine is 15-20 m/min. In the damping machine steam is passed to the drum

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    through the valve wrapper. Tension is adjusted for different qualities of the material.It is necessary to wind the fabric on the cylinder i.e. selvedge to selvedge.

    In Raymonds mill there are two types of pressing machines:1 NIKKI PRESS

    2 ROTARY PRESS

    The aim of pressing is to give the fabric the smoother and brighter surface, withsome degree of performance and this is done by subjecting the fabric to the strongcompression against a polish and heating surface.Object of pressing are aesthetic and partly commercial. Many times the finishingoperation disturbs the surface of the yarn and the fabric. The unevenness and theimpurities cannot be reduce till it is blown and pressed. Pressing can be consideredas mild treatment.

    The three physical factors which are involved in pressing are temperature, pressure

    and time. Pressing of woolen and worsted material is applied to all clear cut finishersin order to make them firm, smooth and slide.The individual yarns are flattened and wild fibres are compressed into the texture ofthe material. There is thus increased smoothness, luster and due to this an improvereflection of light, resulting in better of the details of weave design.Pressing can be considered as mild, mainly cohesive setting treatment. InRaymonds pressing is carried out on Nikki press machine and Rotary pressmachine. Nikki press machine is more advantageous then Rotary press machine.On Nikki press m/c we can press 4 types of the fabric at a time. Here we can pressthe material of different shades, different qualities etc. But in case of Rotary pressm/c, we can press 1 piece at a time.

    In Nikki press machine a particular fabric is pressed for 5 times.

    ADVANTAGES OF NIKKI PRESS:1 Reflection of light is improved.2 Creases are removed.3 Fabric is flattened.4 Good displays of weave and design are observed.

    ROTARY PRESS:This is also a pressing machine. The fabric is passed in between the gap of the steelplate and roller by which a shiny appearance is imparted to the fabric.

    SUPERFINISHThis machine is used to give special type of shine and luster to the fabric. Heretemperature, pressure and steam are maintained according to the quality of thefabric. So, decatising process also occurs in this machine. After passing the fabric atrequired temperature the fabric is collected in a trolley and then taken for folding.

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    FINAL PERCHING (GRADING)Faults are classified in final perching. If there are more faults in the material it is sentto the mending and perching section where the faults are mended and the fabricundergoes final perching. Grades like A, B, C etc are given to the fabric dependingon the number of faults, tries etc.

    The following is a classification of the grades:GRADE A1 Thick weft and uneven yarn2 Broken picks3 Loose twists4 Single end floats5 Broken ends

    GRADE B1 Dobby Mistake2 Two Wrong ends

    3 Let-off Bars4 Double light ends5 Tight weft bars

    GRADE C1 Shaft holds2 Yarn abrasions3 3-4 Wrong ends4 Prominent section marks5 Shade bar

    GRADE D1 All damages2 Chemical damages3 Mildew

    FOLDINGThe fully finished fabric from the finishing department is being folded in the foldingdepartment. The folding of the fabric is carried out according to the requirements ofthe civil and exports market.

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    FLOW CHART FOR THE FOLDING OF FINISHED GOODS

    MEASURING

    FOLDING

    CUTTING

    SELVEDGE STAMPING

    WEIGHING

    HAND ROLLING

    TOP END STAMPING

    PASSING

    COMPUTER DELIVERY

    PACKING

    WAREHOUSE

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    FLOW CHART FOR THE FOLDING OF EXPORT GOODS

    MEASURING

    TUBE ROLLING

    WEIGHING

    PASSING

    DELIVERY

    PACKING

    WAREHOUSE

    CENTRAL LABORATORY

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    RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENTIn R & D various tests are performed for the testing of dyes (Disperse dyes, aciddyes and metal complex dyes). Chemical oil and detergents used in the RaymondLtd. The report of these tests is send to the stores and concerned department.Raymonds believes in giving the best material in the market so they put a lot of cost

    and the best of technology in R & D.

    QUALITY CONTROLQuality control is an ongoing process, which starts right from the initial stages offiber or yarn right upto finishing & final packing of the fabric.

    OBJECTIVES

    Setting up standards by which strict quality check-up can be maintained.

    Co-ordination with departmental people for ensuring quality standards.

    Implementation of quality standards among the departments.

    To take preventive measures for maintaining the quality Along with all the above functions, to provide the management with

    production of high quality or with defects within the tolerance limit.

    QUALITY CONTROL SYSTEM IN DIFFERENT DEPARTMENTS.

    COMBING:

    1. Fineness testing (micron)2. Length3. %Grease

    4. Foreign matter5. Moisture content at different stages6. Oil + total fatty matter (TFM)7. Neps8. Blend composition9. Unevenness% (u %)

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    SPINNING:

    Testing of sliver, roving, yarn for evenness

    Twist testing (TPM)

    Count testing (Nm)

    Moisture content testing

    Single yarn strength testing Lea strength testing

    Hairiness testing

    WEAVING:

    Detection of faults usually on a running loom

    EPI & PPI in a grey fabric

    Study the causes for loom stoppage in different quality materials.

    Detection of faults like missing ends, missing picks, curly selvedges, templemarks & cuts, floats, wrong denting. Mending of all theses faults is done in theperching department.

    DYEING:

    Approving the shade by visual checking 1st & then with the help of computercolour matching.

    Identification of visual faults in a piece dyed fabric on a perching table &retreating the fabric to remove the faults.

    Checking the dyed fabric for washing fastness, light fastness, sublimation test(only for polyester material) etc.

    FINISHING:

    Width of the full finished fabric. Weight of fabric per sq. meter.

    Weight of fabric per linear meter.

    Piling test.

    Drape coefficient of fabric.

    Tensile strength testing.

    Seam slippage test.

    Washing & ironing test.

    Blend composition.

    Water repellence, oil repellence.

    Flame redundancy.

    All the tests carried out in the quality control department help in giving the fabric anoptimum quality as desired. They have the right to alter a particular process & takecorrective measures in order to get an optimum quality fabric.

    KAIZEN - Raymonds

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    Kaizen is a Japanese term that means continuous improvement, taken from words'Kai' means continuous and 'zen' means improvement.

    Raymonds Ltd has roped in Japanese management consultant Kaizen Institute forrevamping operations at its various manufacturing units. Kaizen is currently working

    on business process improvement projects at the company's textiles and files & toolsunits.

    The company has introduced the Kaizen programme in other units as well. Kaizen'sfounder Masaaki Imai has is flyed down from Japan to visit Raymond's units formonitoring the progress of the projects.

    The programme, expected to run for atleast one year, is mainly targeted at themiddle-level employees. The programme starts with a workshop for 4-5 days thatidentifies some major problems and their root causes. Methods are, then, workedout to eliminate the root causes through discussions with employees. Kaizen's India

    office in Mumbai is coordinating the programme for Raymond.

    The projects have so far produced results where it's been tried. It has helped toreduce cycle time at the Thane textile unit. The programme has resulted in inventoryreduction at the company's Chinchwada textile unit in Maharashtra.

    Kaizen is a culture of sustained continuous improvement focusing on eliminatingwaste in all systems and processes of an organisation. The Kaizen strategy beginsand ends with people. With Kaizen, an involved leadership guides people tocontinuously improve their ability to meet expectations of high quality, low cost andon-time delivery. Kaizen transforms companies into Superior Global

    Competitors.

    Kaizen's process improvement programme is mainly implemented in strategicallyimportant area. It mainly takes into account data for arriving at solutions. It coversconcepts such as total quality control, productive maintenance, zero defects, small-group activities and productivity improvement.

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    CONCLUSION

    I would like to conclude my project with a sense of satisfaction that whateverknowledge I have gained in this semester of my curriculum can be indeed used in the real life

    situation and enhanced my view at looking towards things in a wider perspective, of-course

    the in depth analysis has to be done in the classrooms, but the report writing gives thestudent, a chance to know him about the latest developments in the concerned field. The

    project not only imparted me the practical knowledge but also gave me an idea of working in

    an organization with perfect teamwork. I came to know about a fact that I like to share with

    the reader

    All men like to think they can do it alone, but a real man knows theres no substitutefor support, encouragement or a crew.

    It makes the student use his theoretical knowledge in practice and gives human insight into

    the working of a firm.

    Personally, my own opinion is that such type of report writing should be included as a part of

    curriculum for all other courses.

    Last but not the least I would like to thank all the concerned staff of Mithibai College and the

    management of Raymond Textiles and would like to thank personally Mr. Pradeep Nair for

    his contribution to make the project success.

    Although meticulous care has been taken to check the mistakes and misprints, yet it isdifficult to claim perfection. In conclusion, constructive suggestions are Welcomed.

    Great successes are built on taking your negatives & turning them around.

    Mr. Bhavin Mehta.