Claymaker Metal Clay

stepbystepFrame[1] Wrap a piece of scrap yarn or cord around the circumference of your cylindrical form. Cut the cord to that length.[2] Apply a thin layer of olive oil or hand salve to your work surface, hands, acrylic roller, and one end of the cylindrical form.[3] With your hands, roll the metal clay into a narrow cylinder. Set the clay on your

work surface, and place a stack of five playing cards to each side of the clay. Use the acrylic roller to roll the clay into a strip a bit longer than the cord cut in step 1 (photo a). Be sure to reposi-tion the cards as needed to keep the thickness of the clay even along the length.[4] Using the tissue blade, cut the clay into a rectangular strip approximately 1⁄8 in. (3 mm) wide by the length of the cord cut in step 1 (photo b).

String theory

Use leftover metal clay in an easy frame adorned inside and out with colorful cord and beads.

by Julia Gerlach

materialspendant 17⁄8 in. (4.8 cm) diameter• 12 4 mm crystals• 31 110 seed beads• 2 yd. (1.8 m) silk cord, size E, in each of 2 colors: A, B• beading needles, #10• 5 g metal clay• thick metal clay slip (of the same type as the lump clay)• acrylic roller• brass brush• cylindrical form with flat ends, 1½ in. (3.8 cm) diameter • 3⁄64-in. (1.5 mm) drill bit• kiln• nonstick work surface• olive oil or nonpetroleum hand salve• paintbrush• 10 playing cards• sandpaper and sanding pads• scrap yarn or cord• tissue blade

A fad in the ’70s, string art has reappeared recently on the hand- crafted jewelry scene. Use a metal clay frame to achieve an updated look.

[5] Wrap the strip around the cylindrical form, and press the ends together to form a ring. Use a paintbrush to apply a small amount of slip at the join (photo c). Position the form flat-end down so the metal clay ring is parallel to the work surface. Allow the metal clay to dry completely.[6] When the clay has dried, remove it from the form. Use a pencil to mark 24 evenly spaced dots around the outside edge of the frame.

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©2010 Kalmbach Publishing Co. This material may not be reproduced in any form without permission from the publisher.

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PLEASE PROOF:Individual illustrators, designers, art directors, and editors must proof and sign this form.

TitleIssueJob #CodeProofDateReturn

IllustratorDesignerArt Dir.Story Ed.Copy Ed.Man. Ed.Editor

BNBAUG 2010MAG-BNB-AUG10BNB-CM0810205-04-10

Kellie J

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PLEASE PROOF:Individual illustrators, designers, art directors, and editors must proof and sign this form.

TitleIssueJob #CodeProofDateReturn

IllustratorDesignerArt Dir.Story Ed.Copy Ed.Man. Ed.Editor

BNBAUG 2010MAG-BNB-AUG10BNB-CM0810205-04-10

Kellie J

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Hold the 3⁄64-in. (1.5 mm) drill bit between your thumb and fingers, align it with a dot, and gently twist it to drill a hole (photo d). Work slowly, and use your finger to carefully support the spot you are drilling, or the clay could break. Repeat at the remaining dots.[7] Carefully smooth the edges with sandpaper.[8] Fire the frame in a kiln according to the manufac-turer’s instructions. After firing, scrub the frame with a brass brush for a sheen.

Finishing[1] Thread a needle on 2 yd. (1.8 m) of color A silk cord, and pick up eight 110 seed beads, leaving a 6-in. (15 cm) tail. Sew through the first 110 again to form a ring (figure 1, a–b), then pick up a 4 mm crystal, and sew through the top hole in the frame (b–c). [2] Cross over the opening, and sew through the hole directly across from the one your cord just exited. Pick up a 4 mm and an 110, skip the 110, and sew back through the 4 mm and the hole in the frame (c–d).[3] Cross over the opening, and sew through the hole

adjacent to the one your cord exited at the start of the pre-vious step. Pick up an 110, and sew back through the hole in the frame (d–e).[4] Cross over the opening, and sew through the hole directly across from the one your cord just exited. Pick up an 110, and sew back through the hole in the frame (e–f).[5] Repeat steps 3 and 4 around the frame, but pick up a 4 mm and an 110 as in step 2 for every other pair of holes so that the pattern alternates.[6] When the cord has come around to the beginning, sew back through the hole you started with, and sew through the 4 mm and a few 110s. Leave the cord tails to finish later.[7] Thread a needle on 2 yd. (1.8 m) of color B silk cord, and sew through the top 110, 4 mm, and frame hole, leav-ing a 6-in. (15 cm) tail. [8] Skip eight holes, and sew through the next hole and the corresponding 110 (figure 2, a–b). Sew back through the hole, cross over the opening, and sew through the hole and corresponding 110 adjacent to the hole your

FIGURE 1 FIGURE 2

Julia Gerlach is sthe editorof Bead&Button. Contact her at jger-lach@kalmbach.com.

DESIGNER’S NOTE: If you find that you can’t sew through the beads with cord B, tie a half-hitch knot (Basics) between the crystal and the frame, and sew back through the frame.

cord exited at the start of this step. Sew back through the hole (b–c).[9] Work as in step 8 around the frame, following the existing thread path through the beads. When the cord has come around to the begin-

ning, sew back through the hole you started with, and continue through the 4 mm and a few 110s.[10] With one tail, sew into the loop of 110s, and end the cord (Basics). Repeat with the remaining tails. w