STEP BY STEP INSTALLATION GUIDE

Step 1: Remove the old kitchen cabinets

(If this project is a new home, then skip to Step 4)

Clear everything out of your old cabinets. Shut off all the water supply lines and electricity to the

kitchen. Remove all appliances and if possible move them to another room for adequate space

and ease of installation.

If you plan to reuse your existing sink and taps, remove them carefully using the proper tools and

store them safely away from the work area.

Remove the old cabinets and countertops, in addition to any mouldings and baseboards that may

interfere with the new cabinets. When removing upper cabinets rom the wall, be sure to have

someone to support the cabinet’s weight while removing the last few screws or nails to prevent

the cabinet from falling causing unnecessary injury and damage.

Repair any damage to the wall surfaces resulting from the removal of the old kitchen.

Step 2: Prepare to install your new kitchen

Start by determining the highest point in the floor along the walls where the cabinets are being

installed. To determine this point, check the floor with a level. Tip: Tape a level to the edge of a

longer straight edge such as a toe kick moulding to

check a larger area.

Once you find the highest point, measure up 34 ½” and

use a straight edge to draw a level line on the wall

where the new base cabinets will be installed. This

line determines the base cabinet height. From the base

cabinet line, measure up 50 ⅛” and draw a parallel line on the wall where the new wall cabinets

will be installed. This line determines the wall cabinet height. Tip: If you are installing a pantry

then draw the upper cabinet line from top of pantry once it is installed.

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Step 3: Preparing your kitchen for installation

Mark the location of all of the studs on the walls that will support the new

cabinets using either a magnetic stud finder or a hammer and small

finishing nail. It is very important to ensure the cabinets are attached to

wall studs to provide the required support.

Remove all the packaging, doors, drawers, false fronts , and removable

shelving from the new set of cabinets prior

to installation. Use a pen and pieces of

tape to number the parts and the

corresponding cabinet they came from. This helps to reduce the

weight and prevent injury or damage from swinging doors, sliding

drawers, and falling shelves during installation. The cabinets are

equipped with fully adjustable clip hinges which allows the doors to

be removed easily. At the end of the hinge facing the inside of the

cabinet, there is a clip.

Tip: To help visualize the location

of the new cabinets, draw an

outline on the walls where they

will be attached by measuring the

width of the cabinets and

transferring the measurement to

the proper location.

Tip: Some people find it useful to

attach a piece of wood to the wall

to mark the level line and offer

support when hanging wall

cabinets.

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Step 4: Install the base cabinets

Always start with the corner cabinet. If there is no

corner cabinet, start from one end.

Step 4-A

Shim base cabinets up to line on wall. Then

level cabinets from front to back and place

shims at stud and floor locations if there is a

gap. Follow the 34 ½” line and attach the

cabinet through the cabinet back to all

available studs behind the cabinet using the

2 ½” screws.

Tip: measure from inside of cabinet gable to center of wall stud then transfer measurement inside

cabinet for screw location.

Step 4-B

Begin by moving the base cabinet into the proper location. Using wood shims, shim the cabinet up

to the 34 ½” line and check the top with a level and shim accordingly. The toe kick moulding

installed after will hide the shims.

If your base corner cabinet is round, secure it to the adjacent cabinets before you level and

position it.

Step 3-C

If there is not an adjacent cabinet to the round cabinet, leave it

detached until the countertops are installed. Secure it to the underside of the

countertop to keep it in position.

Tip: To break off the excess shim, score the shim with a utility knife and

break the extra section off. Make sure the shims do not stick out past the

cabinet’s sides.

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Move the next cabinet into position so the side sits flush and precisely against the side of the in-

stalled corner cabinet. Clamp the two cabinets together using C-clamps or quick grip clamps and

shim under the cabinet if necessary.

Step 4-D

Align front edges as well as the top and bottom. Check to make

sure the cabinet is level. Use the 1 ⅛” screws included in the

installation kit to attach the cabinets together. To prevent splitting

or cracking, you can pre-drill these holes beforehand with a

countersink bit. Use four screws to attach the cabinets together.

Finish installing the remainder of the base cabinets using the

same procedure.

Tip: Every time you install a new wall or base cabinet, position your

level across the top of it and the last cabinet you installed to make sure

they are lined up with each other perfectly.

Tip: Always pre-fit the cabinets before securing them permanently to

avoid unwanted screw holes inside your new cabinets.

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Step 5: Install the wall cabinets

The procedure for installing wall cabinets is similar to installing the base

cabinets. Always start with the corner cabinet and if there isn’t one, start at

one end. Position the cabinet so the top is flush with the pre-drawn 84 ⅝”

level line. Check to ensure the cabinet is level and in the precise location.

Secure the cabinet to the studs through the back of the cabinet at the top

and bottom using the 2 ½” screws included in the installation kit. It is

recommended that at least two screws at the top and two at the bottom

are used to support each cabinet. Tip: leave screws loose to help align and

fasten adjacent cabinets. Once they are all connected, shim gaps at walls

if needed and tighten screws.

Similar to the installation procedure for base cabinets, move the next cabinet into place and align

front edges use c-clamps or quick grip clamps to clamp the two cabinets together. Shim behind

the cabinet if necessary and ensure the cabinet is level. Screw the cabinets together using 1 ⅛”

screws and then secure it to the studs using the 2 ½” screws. Finish installing the remainder of

the wall cabinets using the same procedure.

Tip: It may be helpful to make a simple cabinet support to hold the cabinet in place during installation.

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Step 6: Install fillers

The sides of the cabinets must sit flush to the walls for a truly built-in look. Because modular

cabinets are built in standard sizes and walls can be uneven, it is sometimes necessary to install

fillers to conceal the extra space. For small gaps, caulking can also be used. Fillers are straight

pieces that are cut to fill the gaps between a cabinet and wall. To cut a filler, cover the surface

with masking tape and mark the line you need to cut right on the tape. Use a jigsaw or table saw

to make your cut. The tape helps prevent tear-out from the saw blade and protects the finish.

Slide the filler into position, and attach it to the cabinet using the 1 ⅛” screws included in your

installation kit or 1” brad nails. Be sure the filler width is wide enough to clear the door trim so the

drawers open fully without hitting.

Tip: While determining the location of the fillers during

the planning stage, it is best to place them at the end of

the cabinet run because they can usually be installed

after the cabinets have been installed. If they are placed

between cabinets, it is important to install them in the

correct location during the installation of the cabinets.

Tip: When cutting melamine

covered wood, use masking

tape under your pencil line

before you cut to prevent

chipping or flaking from the

saw blade.

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Step 7: Install the countertops

Lift the new countertop into place. Check that it is level from end to end and front to

back at multiple points along its length. Insert wood shims where necessary or to fill

any gaps between the cabinet tops and underside of the counter.

If the gaps are large, set a drawing compass to the span of the largest gap

between the backsplash and the wall. Set the compass point next to the wall and

the marker on the backsplash and pull the compass along the wall to mark what

will need to be removed on the backsplash. Remove the countertop and clamp it

in place on sawhorses. Use a belt sander to sand the backsplash to the line drawn

with the compass. Place the countertop on the cabinet to ensure the backsplash is

flush against the wall.

If Countertop needs to be joined such as a corner then, glue them together with

some wood glue and press the edges together.

Ensure the entire surface is flush at the seam along the front edge of the counter.

Tighten the nearest mitre clamp and wipe away any excess glue. Stand behind

the countertop and push it down as needed to make the seam flush along the

back of the counter. Tighten the mitre clamp closest to the backsplash. If one

side of the same is higher than the other, protect the surface with a piece of wood

and tap the countertop with a hammer. When seam is level, tighten the

remaining mitre clamps.

Check the length of every screw carefully so you don’t penetrate the counter surface.

Fasten the countertop by screwing up through the bottom of the cabinet top into the

countertop using 1 ⅛” screws.

If you are reusing your original sink, measure and mark the location, then trace the

paper hole pattern onto the countertop in the proper place. Use a jigsaw to cut the

sink hole in the countertop. To prevent chipping the surface, cover with masking

tape and drill a pilot hole for the jigsaw blade.

Install the sink and reconnect the water and

drain lines.

Apply a bead of caulking where the countertop

or its backsplash meets the wall.

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Step 8: Align the drawers and doors

Re-install the drawers, false fronts, and shelving that were removed prior to installation.

Install the cabinet doors and make adjustments using the diagram below. Drawer fronts can be

also adjusted using the procedure illustrated below.

Tip: The swing direction of some styles of cabinet doors can be

reversed by moving the hinges to the other side of the cabinet,

flipping the door and clipping it into position. Be sure to change

the swing before drilling any handle holes.

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Step 9: Handles and pulls

Once the doors are properly installed and adjusted, install the handles or knobs.

Step 10: Mouldings and trim

Lastly, cut the toe kicks to fit and attach with brad nails or

adhesive. For corner cabinets, cut the front piece long

enough to cover the cut end of the side piece.

Most moulding mitre joints are at a 90° angle and consist

of two pieces of moulding cut at opposing 45° angles.

When fitted together they should form a tight right angle.

For tight mitre joints, nail and glue at joint.

Step 11: Pat yourself on the back!

You have now successfully installed your kitchen cabinets. Congratulations on your beautiful new

kitchen!

Long-term Care & Maintenance:

Our finishes are made of the highest quality and will

maintain their beauty with simple maintenance. Use warm

water, a soft cloth, and mild, non-abrasive soap for

cleaning all surfaces. Never use thinners, scrapers, or

abrasive cleaners on finishes.

For any questions, please contact cindy@cupboardbrothers.com

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Cardboard Template Scrap Block

Crown Moulding Toe Kick Moulding