SHOP Belgium SS14

Have a look at the biggest dep artment store in Belgium.

Galeria Inno, more than 600 brands under one roof.• Galeria Inno Brussels - rue Neuve 111 - 1000 Brussels

• Galeria Inno Bascule - ch. de Waterloo 699 - 1180 Brussels

• Galeria Inno Louise - av. Louise 12 - 1050 Brussels

• Galeria Inno Woluwe - av. Paul Hymans 150 - 1200 Brussels

www.inno.be

Have a look at the biggest dep artment store in Belgium.

• Galeria Inno Antwerpen - Meir 80-82 - 2000 Antwerpen

• Galeria Inno Brugge - Steenstraat 11 - 8000 Brugge

• Galeria Inno Namur - pl. d’Armes 17 - 5000 Namur

• Galeria Inno Oostende - Kapellestraat 18 - 8400 Oostende

Galeria Inno, more than 600 brands under one roof.

Editor’s Letter

8

Emma Cheevers

Welcome to Belgium

This SHOP guide will help you discover all

that Belgium has to ofer, including the best

luxury department stores, boutiques and

concept stores, as well as recommendations

for restaurants, bars and special places to visit.

As part of Global Blue, a Tax Free

Shopping market leader, SHOP publishes

essential guides to over 40 destinations across

Europe and Asia. The new Global Blue mobile

app is another great way to fnd the very latest

on your chosen destination – there are more

details in our news section on page 25.

For the very latest information, visit our

website, globalblue.com, or email me at

[email protected]. Claiming your tax

savings is even easier with the new Global Blue

Card – signing up is free and you can fnd all

the details on the Global Blue website.

Athens and Thessaloniki

Austria

Barcelona

Belgium

Berlin

Buenos Aires

Cologne

Copenhagen

Cyprus

Чехия

Düsseldorf

Estonia

Frankfurt

French Riviera

دليل ألانيا

德国指南

Руководство Германия

Gothenburg

Hamburg

Hanover

Helsinki Area

Holland

Iceland

Istanbul

Italy

Lake Saimaa

Lebanon

London

Madrid

Milan

Munich

Naples

Oslo

Paris

Portugal

Prague

Riga

Rimini and Riccione

Rome

Singapore

Stockholm

Stuttgart

Switzerland

Vienna

Vilnius

ILLU

ST

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ION

: pA

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Oh

NS

ON

/globalblue

/globalblue/globalblue

@环球蓝联-GlobalBlue

@GlobalBlue

/GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu

Contributors

10

globalblue.com

Ray Oranges

Ray Oranges created the cover

illustration for this season’s edition

of SHOP Belgium. His graphic

artwork has previously been

commissioned by Wallpaper, DDB

NY and Il Sole 24 Ore, among

others. His use of colour and

bold shapes makes him a perfect

illustrator for this cover, inspired

by our feature about the many

facets of Belgian jewellery design

on page 28.

Read more about our cover

illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.

Grace Bird

After working in theatre, Grace

Bird joined SHOP as picture

assistant, where her role involves

taking photographs for the print

and online editions. She loves all

kinds of art and craft, and can

often be found doing origami or

knitting in her bonsai garden. She

also enjoys travelling, something

that inspires her unique style.

Frances Wasem

Frances Wasem is assistant fashion

features editor and Flash editor at

Harper’s Bazaar magazine, and

has also written for Stella magazine

and the Times. She has interviewed

fashion icons from Christian

Louboutin to the corset maker

Mr Pearl and flm stars including

Lauren Bacall, Lauren Hutton,

Ali MacGraw and Jane Fonda.

ILL

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Shop Floor

12

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every

care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after

publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide.

All rights reserved. ©2014 Global Blue

E DI TOR I A L

Editor-in-chiefEmma Cheevers

PU BL I SH I NG

PublisherJames Morris

The paper in this brochure is elemental chlorine free and is PEFC accredited. It is printed to ISO

14001 environmental procedures, using vegetable based inks.The PEFC Council (Programme for

the Endorsement of Forest Certifcation schemes) is an independent, non-proft, non-governmental

organisation which promotes responsible management of the world’s forests. Forest certifcation is

combined with a product labelling that allows consumers to readily identify timber based products

from certifed forests.

Managing editor Sally McIlhone

Cover illustratorRay Oranges @ Machas

ContributorFrances Wasem

Production editorCaterina Mazzolai

Assistant production editorRuairidh Pritchard

Features editorStephen Doig

City guide and lifestyle editorVerity Hogan

Fashion and news editorDominique Fenn

Assistant fashion and market editorXimena Daneri

Assistant fashion and news editorsHannah Lewis, Isabella Redmond Styles

Fashion assistantGemma Latham

Editorial internsIndia Block, Sammy Ha

Chief sub-editorHester Lacey

Copy editorsSue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew

Picture editorDorcas Brown

Assistant picture editorsKirsty Andrews, Sarah Beyts

Picture assistantsGrace Bird, Mónica Goya

ArtworkerAdam Dhaliwal

Artworking assistantsHarveen Ghattaure, Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala, Shirley Lau

Online editor Kirsty Welsh

Online commercial editorSally Ashley-Cound

Online editorial assistantKatie Ramsingh

Online assistantsMarina Nelson, Emily Scrivener

Commercial editorJustine Clifton

Commercial artworkerLaura Soler

Commercial artworking assistantDan O’Brien

Chinese editorYuan Fang

Associate Chinese editorJunjie Dou

Chinese assistant editor Hongying Xu

Chinese fashion editorJiafei Fei

Chinese contributing editorQingya He

Chinese translatorsBingjie Ao, Yinzhang Lin, Jun Liu, Shin Yin, Yi Zhang

Chinese internDaniel Huang

Russian editorAnastasia Nemchenok

Associate Russian editorDaria Orlova

Assistant Russian editorKira Savchenko

Russian editorial assistantLinda Blank

Russian translatorsTeena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov

Japanese editor Kyoko Nishimoto

SHOP is published by Global Blue

Group headquartersGlobal Blue SA,Route de Crassier 7,CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland

Corporate registration number5565726923

[email protected]

Digital managerEamonn Leacy

Digital production managerFunmi Paul-Taiwo

Product managerLuca Russo

Project managerOmar Haque

International digital marketing executiveNina Kobalia

Digital production assistantPaul Lecoanet

Advertising and partnership managerRiccardo Canini

Distribution project managerClaudia Suárez

Print Dane Consultancy

GL OBA L BLU E

BE L GI UM

Regional manager for Benelux Marja van Reijn

Marketing managerKathy van Haaren

Customer relations Carla Maes, Ilse Vanachter

Account managersJennifer de Vos, Sophie Herkenne, Kim Joostens

Global Blue Belgium,Lambroekstraat 5C,

B-1831 Diegem,Belgium

Contents

14

Above: Katrin Wouters and Karen Hendrix are two of Belgium's most inspiring jewellery designers

Produc ts

16 Check Out

sHoP selects a standout piece

from Belgium this season

18 Products

Key looks for the season,

from fashion and footwear

to jewellery and accessories

N e ws

22 Shop Window

one store not to be missed

in Belgium

24 News

seasonal updates on shops,

services and new products

F e At u r e s

28 Cover Story: The Future’s

Bright

Belgium’s cutting-edge

designers are taking its

jewellery business in

surprising directions, as

Frances wasem explains

34 Weaving Stories

traditional Flemish tapestry

has a long history – and is still

infuencing the fashion world

today, discovers stephen doig

e x Pe r i e Nce

40 Raising The Bar

A night out in Belgium

ofers plenty of variety,

says Verity Hogan

Gu i de

45 Maps and guides to the

key shopping areas of

Brussels, Antwerp and

Bruges, plus sHoP’s unique

view of Belgium’s sights

e sse N t i A l s

62 How To Shop Tax Free

the simple steps to saving

money on your shopping

t r A Nsl At ioNs

64 Русский Перевод

68 美文翻译

70 日本語翻訳

sou V e N i r

74 the essential item to

bring home

p.28

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Appelmansstraat 25 box 23-26, 2018 Antwerp Belgium

tel: +32 (0)3 226 11 91 | fax: +32 (0)3 226 21 57 | e-mail: [email protected]

The Lotus Collection

D-Brilliant Cuts™ invented by master Polisher

Hedwig Smets

and is a registered Trademark owned by

Dayekh Gems™ bvba

16 | PRODUCTS

Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 62

Check Out

and includes upholstery fabrics

which the designer describes

as ‘blank canvases’, as well as a

select number of fnished prod-

ucts. These versatile cushions are

available in three diferent sizes

for seating, beds and even the

foor, and there are also throws,

all in complementary tones and

made with fne mohair and me-

rino lambswool – ideal for adding

high-impact fnishing touches to

any interior. df

Raf Simons x Kvadrat

cushions, from €110,

Donum, Hopland 47,

2000 Antwerp,

+32 (0)3 231 3918,

kvadratrafsimons.com

SITTING PRETTY

This spring brings a very spe-

cial homeware collaboration be-

tween Belgium’s Raf Simons and

Kvadrat, the Danish textile com-

pany founded in 1968. Simons,

who was originally an industrial

designer before switching to fash-

ion, has previously shown his col-

lections among works by Prouvé

and Calder and is known to be

a passionate collector of 20th-

century furniture and ceram-

ics. The exclusive collection is

designed with longevity in mind

GAUTAM DIAMONDS & JEWELS

12, Gr A N D PL Ac E , 1000 BrU S S E L S | 45, rU E D E L ’ET U v E , 1000 BrU S S E L S

BrU S S E L S A I r P O rT , TE r M I NA L S A A N D B

18 | PRODUCTS


1. Giovane trousers, €149,

Twin, 519 rue Léopold Ier, 1090 Brussels,

+32 (0)2 426 8888,

giovane.be

2. Ray-Ban glasses, €156,

Brillenmarkt, Schuttershofstraat 18,

2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 233 9857,

rayban.com

3. Brantano loafers, €69.95,

Brantano, Legeweg 152, 8200 Bruges,

+32 (0)50 317506,

brantano.be

4. Pinko jacket, €460,

Pinko, Huidevettersstraat 42A,

2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 231 0006,

pinko.it

DAYDREAM

DRESSING

Revive daytime dressing

with smart tailoring,

bold print and

statement accessories

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SHOP | 19

globalblue.com

1. Brax shirt, €59.95,

Brax, Schoenmarkt 10, 2000 Antwerp,

+32 (0)3 225 1015,

brax.com

2. Ben Sherman wallet, €39.90,

Brooklyn, Noordzandstraat 50,

8000 Bruges, +32 (0)50 333143,

bensherman.com

3. Gaastra swimming trunks, €59.95,

Gaastra, Schoenmarkt 6, 2000 Antwerp,

+32 (0)3 707 0372,

gaastra.eu

4. Fred Perry cardigan, €130,

Fred Perry Authentic,

Huidevettersstraat 54, 2000 Antwerp,

+32 (0)3 770 6757, fredperry.com

GONE FISHING

1 3

2

4

All you need for relaxed

summer dressing is easy

layers and cheerful prints

20 | PRODUCTS


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3. Persol sunglasses, €238,

Meeussen Galerie Optiek,

Nieuwe Gaanderij 38-40, 2000 Antwerp,

+32 (0)3 232 4837, persol.com

4. Julia June dress, €449,

Damoy, Groendalstraat 24,

2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 288 0458,

juliajune.be

1. Lee Cooper denim jacket, €89.95,

Lynel, 98 chaussée d’Ixelles,

1050 Brussels, +32 (0)2 511 1304,

leecooper.com

2. Laidback London sandals, €79.95,

Marcoz, Korte Gasthuisstraat 4-6,

2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 227 0244,

laidbacklondon.com

SUNNY

DISPOSITION

This season’s dress is

a 1960s-inspired shift –

just add shades, classic

sandals and denim

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BRUXELLES • ANVERS • BRUGGE

22 | NEWS


Shop Window

FASHION GALAXY

Concept store Hunting and

Collecting has had a total décor

overhaul for 2014 based on an

intergalactic theme, Where No

Store Has Gone Before. In the

past it updated its look every six

months, but has recently switched

to yearly redesigns in order to

present a more holistic experi-

ence. The newly revamped inte-

rior is a futuristic space of bright

lights, bright whites and metals,

the perfect backdrop for a collec-

tion that follows similar themes.

The brand list is a careful mix of

big names and less familiar labels,

curated precisely, so that Carven

and Kenzo sit happily alongside

oferings from young brands such

as Wood Wood. When it comes to

a total retail experience, Hunting

and Collecting has few rivals

in Brussels. hl

Hunting and Collecting,

17 rue des Chartreux,

1000 Brussels,

+32 (0)2 512 7477,

huntingandcollecting.com

* for map go to page 50

24 | NEWS


MoVing on UP

Belgian brand niyona has a

modern aesthetic, producing beau-

tiful accessories inspired by the

mobile nature of contemporary

life. in its new hello James store,

designed to be a place where people

can see a new side of the brand, vis-

itors can experience the manufac-

turing process as well as shopping

the collection. along with niyona’s

main line and the limited-edition

collaborative projects for which the

brand has become known, hello

James stocks pieces by other labels

with the same passion for mobility

and for ethical production. hl

Niyona/Hello James,

86 rue de Laeken, 1000 Brussels,

+32 (0)472 258299, niyona.be

In brief:

— If you’re

passing through

Brussels airport,

be sure to pay

a visit to the

newly opened Jo

Malone boutique,

which stocks a

wide range of the

British fragrance

house’s beautiful

offerings

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globalblue.com

n e WS | 25

SHOP THE WORLD

Using our wealth of insider knowledge,

we have created a smartphone app

to help you to plan your trips. The app

gives information on 45 cities in 22

countries – thousands of stores are listed

and located on maps, with full contact

details and a description of what each

store sells. Our maps guide you right to

the store, step-by-step, from your current

location and can also be downloaded

for offine use. If you’re looking for

something specifc, or a particular brand,

use our search option to locate it – you

can even create your own itinerary. The

app is available in Chinese, English and

Russian, and includes a Tax Refund

Calculator to tell you how much you’ll

save on every purchase you make in

every different country you visit. There are

also instructions on how to use Currency

Choice, our service that allows you to pay

in your home currency.

globalblue.com

Download the Global Blue guide

from the App Store or Play Store

SerViCe With a SMiLe

the Lodge Bruges specialises

in timeless menswear and brings

traditional standards of quality

and service into the modern day.

inspired by a love of original cloth-

ing and accessories, the store ofers

a number of brands which are un-

available elsewhere in the city, such

as red Wing Shoes and Pace jeans.

Fashion experts are on hand to give

personal advice to customers. hl

The Lodge Bruges,

Langestraat 50,

8000 Bruges,

+32 (0)50 348340,

thelodgebruges.com

26 | NEWS


LIGHT AND SHADE

Luggage brand Rimowa has

opened its frst Belgian con-

cept store in the city of Antwerp.

Rimowa is known for its simple

design, which avoids gimmicks

and focuses on genuine quality.

The brand’s concept stores have

an all-white palette that allows the

products to be seen more clearly.

In contrast to this bright space, the

area displaying the brand’s more

luxurious range is charcoal grey,

letting the cases truly shine. hl

Rimowa,

Leopoldstraat 6, 2000 Antwerp,

+32 (0)3 234 3220,

rimowa.com

ONE FOR ALL

With its combination of fash-

ion, beauty, design and food, it’s

little wonder that Smets is one of

Brussels’ best-loved stores. The

spacious interior ofers a skilful

edit of pieces from collections

by Givenchy, Kenzo, Balenciaga

and Tom Ford, among others,

along with interior design brands

such as Hay and Fritz Hansen.

Be sure to visit the stylish restau-

rant, Bowery. irs

Smets,

650-652 chaussée de Louvain,

1030 Brussels, +32 (0)2 325 1230,

smets.lu

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Above: Tine de Ruysser copper and polyester origami cape

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SHOP | 29

A new generation of cutting-edge designers is taking Belgium’s jewellery business in surprising – and inspiring – directions, as Frances

Wasem explains

Belgium has been known as a hub

of cutting-edge creativity and in-

novative design since the Antwerp

Six shot to fame in the 1980s with

their radical vision of fashion.

Since then the country has pro-

duced a wealth of talent, from the

visionary Martin Margiela and the

romantic Olivier Theyskens to Raf

Simons and the Antwerp-trained

duo behind Peter Pilotto.

Belgium’s fashion designers are,

it seems, united by a desire to push

artistic and technical boundaries.

Until recently, though, its jewellers

appeared to maintain a more classic

aesthetic. Antwerp has been a cen-

tre of the diamond trade for cen-

turies, and the shops of respected

jewellery houses such as Manalys

glitter with precious stones like an

Aladdin’s cave. However, increas-

ingly even the heritage names are

exploring a more avant-garde ap-

proach. Baunat, for instance, has

collaborated on a line with Wouters

& Hendrix, another Belgian suc-

cess story from the 1980s, as it does

on a regular basis with other locally

based designers such as Anne Zel-

lien and Elke Peeters.

THE FUTURE’S

BRIGHT

30 | FEATURES

Above (clockwise from top lef): Tine de Ruysser ‘bank note’ jewellery; Wouters & Hendrix silver summer 2014 collection; designers Katrin Wouters and Karen Hendrix; Hilde Van Belleghem ring

As well as jewellery shops,

the streets of Belgian cities are

lined with art galleries exhibit-

ing cutting-edge ‘art’ jewellery

such as that designed by Tine

de Ruysser, who uses both tradi-

tional and computer-based tech-

niques. The wearable origami

cape made of copper and polyester

that she produced as part of her

PhD course at London’s Royal

College of Art in 2009 wouldn’t

be out of place in an Ann De-

meulemeester catwalk show. Art

galleries commission some of her

conceptual pieces and her ‘bank

note’ jewellery – striking chokers

and cufs woven out of euros and

rupees – was displayed at her 2012

solo exhibition, Beyond Fashion,

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SHOP | 31

rabbit pendant is roughly hewn

out of silver, with a pearl-covered

cross nestling next to the silver rab-

bit. This is a tactile, emotive piece

that you will want to hand down

to your daughter.

Using classic materials and

methods in novel ways is at the

heart of the approach of the new

generation of designers. Katrin

Wouters and Karen Hendrix –

also graduates of Antwerp’s in-

fuential royal academy – studied

goldsmithing, and now have a fag-

ship store selling silver, gold and

diamond-based pieces. ‘We aim

to produce something that is hu-

morous, classic and yet obsti-

nate,’ explains Wouters, who feels

their pieces have ‘an emotional

value which we hope resonates

Exploring the

unexpected is a

key element of

Belgian design

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Hilde Van Belleghem also

studied at Antwerp’s Koninklijke

Academie voor Schone Kunsten

(Royal Academy of Fine Art). Van

Belleghem has an atelier in the city

and has worked with De Beers

on yellow-gold and diamond col-

lections. She also designs more

surprising pieces, such as Angel,

a pendant made out of silver, china,

feathers and sealing wax.

Exploring the unexpected

is a key element of Belgian design,

as is making jewellery emotive.

Anne Zellien’s jewellery – inspired

by her love of nature and all things

vintage – incorporates both. She

works with diamonds, pearls and

semi-precious gems which she

combines, surprisingly, with ce-

ramics. Her ‘In nature we trust’

Above: Anne Zellien ‘In nature we trust’ rabbit pendant necklace

32 | F E AT U R E S

with customers’. The design duo

translates ancient craft techniques

such as plique-à-jour, in which

enamel is applied to a gold or silver

fligree framework, into pieces that

look as if they have tumbled out

of a particularly fantastical curios-

ity shop.

Atelier 11, a design studio set

up by Flor Janssens and Ludovik

Colpaert, is equally determined

to challenge the usual view of jew-

ellery design. ‘People still think

of jewellery in terms of gold, silver,

diamonds and pearls,’ states Col-

paert. The designers apply ‘art-

jewellery’ techniques to afordable,

fashion pieces.

‘We want to be experimental,

yet also commercial,’ continues

Colpaert. The collections include

simple, playful silver pieces with

the occasional burst of colour in the

form of powder coating, which has

become an Atelier 11 trademark.

Its designs have won it fans in the

fashion world: it can boast col-

laborations with Martin Margiela,

Victor & Rolf, AF Vandevorst and

Raf Simons.

Blending timeless traditions

and new techniques creates an or-

ganic quality, a depth and, indeed,

a darkness, which is uniquely Bel-

gian. For the fashion enthusiast

who wants to eschew the standard

diamonds and pearls and embrace

jewellery that’s altogether more

trailblazing and innovative, Bel-

gium is a veritable treasure trove

baunat.com, tinederuysser.com,

hildevanbelleghem.be,

annezellien.be,

wouters-hendrix.com,

atelierelf.com

For innovative,

trailblazing

jewellery, Belgium

is a veritable

treasure trove

34 | FEATURES

SHOP | 35

Lef: Dries Van Noten menswear spring/summer 2014

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WEAVING STORIESTraditional Flemish tapestry has a long and illustrious history – and an ever-growing infuence on the world of modern fashion, says Stephen Doig

There are certain aspects of

Belgium’s cultural history that,

despite seeming thoroughly at

odds with the cut and thrust of

the 21st-century catwalk, have

somehow worked their way into

the modern wardrobe. And the

results aren’t as jarring as you’d

perhaps expect. Global designers

such as Valentino, John Galliano

and Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton

have previously mined the shapes,

brooding colours and traditional

costume touches in famous Flem-

ish works of art. So it’s not surpris-

ing if tapestry, that most famous of

Belgian crafts, is constantly being

reinvented and applied to the most

innovative and cutting-edge of

fashion pieces.

The art of tapestry – textiles

woven in a particular way to create

pleasing images – dates back sever-

al thousand years; remnants from

ancient Greek times still survive.

In Europe’s Middle Ages, no

72

36 | FEATURES

Above (from lef): Valentino; Dolce & Gabbana (both spring/summer 2014)

aristocratic interior was complete

without its set of hangings, which

served the dual purpose of decora-

tion and insulation. To begin with,

the fnest work came from Arras

in northern France, but by the

16th century it was the weavers

of Flanders who had become the

acknowledged masters of the intri-

cate technique. Over the years they

produced an array of tapestries

which are as fne as any work of

art on canvas, showing everything

from pastoral scenes to episodes

from classical myths and history.

Collectors – and the antiques

world in general – continue to set

great store by traditional tapes-

try pieces, but as an art form it

has long been regarded as slightly

dated. Which is why its emergence

in fashion culture is all that more

striking. Designers from Dolce &

Gabbana to Valentino, Balmain to

Rag & Bone and a host of others

have used the aesthetics of tapes-

try to conjure up richly textured

pieces on the catwalk. Dolce &

Gabbana used it to grand efect

against sheer or lace fabrics to

The recent emergence of tapestry in fashion culture is striking

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give a peek-a-boo efect: tapestry

brought right up to date by giving

it a sensual spin. At Louis Vuitton,

a previous collaboration between

the label’s menswear director Kim

Jones and artists Jake and Dinos

Chapman led to tapestry efects

being applied to louche dressing

gowns and evening jackets, with

contemporary cartoon fgures hid-

den in the detailed patterns.

Another designer who has rein-

terpreted the language of tradition-

al Flemish tapestry to create avant-

garde fashion is Dries Van Noten.

Having previously used it on coats

and dresses (either with needle-

point embroidery or by applying

the image on to fabric by way of a

print), Van Noten has also worked

it into his spring/summer 2014

menswear ofering. This includes

lavish, evocative tapestry designs

over sports vests and jackets, the

dark brooding foral designs and

accents of gold brilliantly replicat-

ing the kind of tapestry one might

see hanging in Tournai’s Musée de

Above (from lef): Jonathan Saunders; Dries Van Noten; Christopher Kane (all spring/summer 2014); Louis Vuiton menswear autumn/winter 2013/14

SHOP | 39

climbing on a muted backdrop on

coats and dresses.

Tapestry-like touches also crop

up in Christopher Kane’s botany

lesson of a collection, which fea-

tures stitched and embroidered

fora on sheer skirts. There are

garlands of needlepoint fowers on

bomber jackets and dresses at Jon-

athan Saunders, and Valentino’s

folkloric ofering have accents of

tapestry efect. It all serves to bring

a classical element to contempo-

rary style: an old-fashioned craft

applied to the present day. It also

allows for experimentation in co-

lour and print, and gives texture to

fat fabrics; Flemish tapestry never

looked so inviting or so inventive

la Tapisserie, with sporty accents

– football-style numbers, zips,

slick cuts and webbing – for a 21st-

century spin. The womenswear

collection for spring might not be

so explicitly infuenced by tapestry,

but there are accents popping up in

the form of embroidered vest tops

and jackets, and dark foral shapes

Flemish tapestry has never looked so inviting or so inventive

globalblue.com

40 | EXPER IENCE

voured with juniper, coriander and

other herbs and spices.

Every Belgian city has a dis-

tinctive nightlife culture; Brussels’

central location makes it popular

with festival organisers and inter-

national musicians, while more

than 80 bars of varying size and

style ofer an appealing alternative.

Antwerp has a similarly vibrant

bar scene with a wealth of variety;

options range from casual street

cafés to bistros, beer cellars and

taverns. Bruges ofers the most se-

date nightlife, centred on pubs and

bars rather than late-night clubs.

Beer is Belgium’s most famous ex-

port; the country has enjoyed an

unparalleled reputation for pro-

ducing speciality beers since the

Middle Ages and now ofers more

than 450 diferent varieties. Many

are served in a particular glass with

shapes designed to enhance the fa-

vours of each individual beer. Bel-

gium’s landscape is ideally suited

to growing barley and hops, while

its high-quality water is also an es-

sential component. As well as beer,

Belgium produces its own grain-

based spirit, which can be served

straight in small quantities or fa-

Raising the BaR

Despite the country’s worldwide

reputation for producing Europe’s best

beer, there is much more to Belgium’s

bar culture than the frothy beverage.

Verity Hogan explores a selection

of the country’s best options

SHOP | 41

N o c t u r N E

one of Belgium’s most atmospher-

ic bars, Nocturne is located within

one of medieval Bruges’ oldest cel-

lars. Despite its setting, just a short

walk from the city’s main market,

c o c k t A i l s A t N i N E

With its exposed brick walls and

earth-toned sofa seating, cock-

tails at Nine’s contemporary inte-

rior ofers a stark contrast to the

200-year-old building in which it’s

the bar feels like a private hideaway

with its low lighting and wealth

of original features. the bar also

hosts regular live music events.

Nocturne,

Wollestraat 29D, 8000 Bruges,

+32 (0)486 790216,

nocturne-brugge.be

located. the bar’s menu is equally

inventive, with the staf as conf-

dent creating their own mixes as

they are at perfecting the classics.

Cocktails at Nine,

lijnwaadmarkt 9, 2000 Antwerp,

+32 (0)3 707 1007,

cocktailsatnine.be

PH

OT

O: G

re

G V

an

Oz

42 | EXPER IENCE

globalblue.com

L’ A r c h i d u c

With its art deco interior and

regular live jazz performances,

L’Archiduc is an archetypal 1930s

drinking den. This popular bar

has a host of original features,

S i p S

Antwerp’s Sips bar is known for

maintaining the highest standards

in its drinks menu, service and

ambience. Every cocktail uses pre-

mium spirits and fresh ingredients,

including a high-domed ceiling,

half-moon balcony and cast-iron

door, dating back to 1937, while its

drinks menu is large and diverse.

L’Archiduc,

6 rue Antoine dansaert,

1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 512 0652,

archiduc.net

skilfully mixed. Guests are sure

to be impressed by the way that

classic cocktail recipes have been

updated to suit 21st-century tastes.

Sips, Gillisplaats 8,

2000 Antwerp,

+32 (0)3 257 3959,

sips-cocktails.com

The simplest wayto shop tax freeJoin. Shop. Swipe. Save

The Global Blue Card. Save up to 19%* when you shop abroad at the world’s favourite stores. Sign-up now.

www.globalblue.com/register

*Subject to local conditions.

GUIDE | 45

Guide

ILL

US

TR

AT

ION

: LY

ND

ON

HAY

ES

globalblue.com

Navigating an unfamiliar country is never easy.

Global Blue ofers you the most comprehensive

shopping maps, helping you fnd your way around

Belgium with useful hints and insider information

about what to see, do and buy. For more detailed guides,

check out globalblue.com/belgium or pick up one of

our bespoke shopping maps from your concierge.

46 | GUIDE

globalblue.com

SNAPSHOTS

OF A COUNTRY

‘Alongside its chocolate,

beer and moules-frites,

Belgium ofers rich culture

and spectacular landscapes’

– Kirsty Andrews, assistant

picture editor, SHOP

PH

OTO

S: @

AN

DR

EWS

KIR

STY

; @D

Om

INIq

uEF

ENN

SHOP | 47

globalblue.com

Follow our

team’s travels on

Instagram

@globalblue.

Tag us in your city

pictures when

sharing them and

you might see

them in print!

48 | GUIDE

TROONPLEIN

HO

OG

ST

RA

AT

RUE JOURDAN

RUE HAUTE

HO

OGSTRA

AT

RU

EBLAES

BLAESSTRA

AT

RU

E BLA

ES

VALKSTRAAT

RUE

DES

MIN

IME

S

PR

IEM

ST

RA

AT

RU

ED

ES

TAS

SA

RT

BR

AN

DH

OU

TKA

AI

BA

KS

TEENK

AA

I

BLEKERIJSTRA AT

K ARTUIZERSSTRAAT

RU

ED

ELI

GN

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RU

ED

UM

IDI

RUE

NEU

VE

RUE DE MIROIR

R U

ED

ESTA

NN

EU

RS

BRIGITINN E STRAAT

RUE DES COLONIES

RUE DULO MBARD

AV. DE LA TOISON D’OR

RUE DU PRINCE ROYAL

CH

AU

SS

ÉED

’LXELLES

RUE VANARTEVELDE

RU

ED

EL

AE

KE

N

RUEDE L

ACONCORDE

U JARDIN BOTANIQ

RU

ER

OY

ALE

RU

ER

OY

ALE

I

BL VD. DE W ATERLOO

TUNNEL LOUISE

RUE

DE

FL

AN

DR

EHOPSTRAAT

BLVD. DE L’ EMPEREURRUE

ANTOINEDANSAERT

BLVD

. MAU

RICE L

EMO

NN

IER

BLVD

. AN

SPACH

RUE DE L

A RÉGENCE

RUE A UX L AINES

RUE AUX

LAINES

RU

ED

EN

AM

UR

Belga Queen

TOWN HALL

GRAND PLACE

GALERIES ROYALES ST. HUBERT

THE CATHEDRAL OF

SAINTS MICHEL

AND GUDULE

BELGIAN CENTER

FOR COMIC STRIP ART

MANNEKEN PIS

PLACE DU

GRAND SABLON

MARGRITTE MUSEUM

FORMER PALACE

OF BRUSSELS

ROYAL PALACE

Place DesPalais

MONT DES ARTS

LAW COURTS OF BRUSSELS

LA MONNAIE THEATRE

DELIRIUM TREMENS

Hotel Metropole

CENTRAL STATION

Brussels

P.49

P.52

P.50

P.51

Place Of Interest

Hotel

Train Station Tourist Information

Restaurant

SHOP | 49

RU

ED

ES

CE

ND

RE

SRU

ES

AIN

T-P

IER

RE

ZANDSTRAAT

RU

ED

U

PERSIL

RUE DES BOITEUX

NIEUWBRUG

NIEUWBRUG

PE

LIKA

AN

ST

RA

AT

PE

LIK

AA

NS

TR

AA

T

KOOLSTRAT

RUE

DE

ME

IBO

OM

ZIL

VE

RS

TR

AA

T

DA

MB

OR

DS

TR

AA

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RUE DE LA BLANCHISSERIE

BRO

EKSTRA

AT

BR

OE

KS

TR

AA

T

RUE DES AUGUSTINS

RUE

DI M

EL

BO

OM

RU

EN

EU

VE

RU

EN

EU

VE

PL

. DE

BR

OU

CK

ÈR

E

BLV

D. E

MIL

EJA

CQ

MA

IN BLVD. DU JARDIN BOTANIQUE

● FNAC

●

●

MACLINE●

VERITAS●

CELIOH&M●

●

SACHA●

CAMAIEUTAMARIS

● COOL CAT

●

●

MEDIA MARKT

● THE BODY SHOP

GALERIA INNO● 123●

●

MORGAN●

PIMKIE●

ERAM

MANGO● HUNKEMOLLER

● SWAROVSKI

● ETAM LINGERIE

●

●

NEW LOOK●

PROMOD

ICI PARIS XL●

●

FOOT LOCKER

C&A● H&M●

● HEMA

FOREVER 21● BENETTON

●

●

CHAMPS ELYSÉES

●

TIME SQUARE

YVES● ROCHER

WE

ALFREDO

DIFFUSION ●

TARACCI●

DEAN●

TRISTYL●

JULES ●MANGO ●

ULLA POPKEN ●ERAM ●

OKAÏDI ●DIESEL ●

NEW LOOK ●

SALAMANDER ●

CLAIRE'S ●

BASE SHOP ●GEOX ●

GALLERY ●MANO ●

SHOE DISCOUNT ●LEVI'S ●KEN ●

SCORE ●DONA ●

PULL & BEAR ●

DU PAREILLE

AUX MÊMES ●H&M ●

UN JOUR

AILLEURS ●

CASSIS/PAPRIKA ●

H&M MAN ●

CAMAIEU ●JULES ●

MEXX ●

INTIMISSIMI ●MACH 3 ●

AMERICA TODAY ●

BERSHKA ●KEN ●

NAF NAF ●

MAROQUINERIE

FABIOLA ●ESPRIT ●

CELIO CLUB ●ZARA ●

PEARLE OPTICIEN ●CELIO ●

ERAM ●

SPRINGFIELD ●

JENNYFER ●

WOMEN’SECRET ●

DAVIDOFF●

City 2 Shopping Center

● G

IOIA

V●

2 L

EONID

AS

Rue Neuve

Delbôve Cosmetics’ fagship store echoes the way the compa-ny combines scientifc advance-ments with natural ingredients in its product range, resulting in an interior that resembles a luxurious laboratory. The brand launched with a range of com-plementary products designed to maintain the skin’s healthy balance. There is one to solve every imaginable skin concern, from purifying cleansers to an-

ti-ageing serums, all packaged in vintage-style bottles designed by Christophe Rémy.Delbôve Cosmetics, 67 rue de l’Abbaye, 1050 Brussels, +32 (0)2 648 0449, delbove-cosmetics.com

Shopping CentreGlobal Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer

DelBôve CosmeTiCs

50 | GUIDE

Rue Antoine Dansaert

RUE DU PÉNE

KOGELSTRAAT

GR

OO

TS

ERM

ENSTR

AAT

PL. SAINT-GÉRY

RU

EPA

UL

DEVA

UX

HOPSTR A AT

RU

ED

UR

EM

PA

RT

DE

SM

OIN

ES

FABRIEKSSTR AAT K ARTUIZERSSTRAAT

RUE DE FLANDRE

RU

ED

EF

LA

ND

RE

QU

AI A

UB

OIS

ÀB

RȖ

LE

R

QU

AI A

UX

BR

IQU

ES

RUEAN

TOIN

ED

AN

SAERT

RU

E AN

TOIN

ED

AN

SAERT

RU

EL

ÉO

NL

EP

AG

E

PL. SAINTE-CATHERIN

E

RUEVAN

ARTEVELDE

RUENOTRE-DAM

EDU

SOM

MEIL

●

VIR

T & R

EAL

●

HA

LELUIA

●

ICO

N

● H

OET

● H

ATSHO

E

● A

SU

IVR

E

● C

ARIN

E GIL

SON

● L

ES PR

ÉCIEU

SES

● E

LISA

BETH

● Z

AD

IG &

VO

LTAIR

E

● E

LEVEN

PA

RIS

● A

RTHU

R OR

LAN

● M

AJE

● U

ND

ERWEA

R

● M

AC

● R

UE B

LAN

CHE

● R

EPLAY

● IK

KS

● S

AR

AH P

ACINI

● B

UFFA

LLO

● P

RINCESSE T

AM

TA

M

● P

HA

RM

ACIE U

NIV

ERSELLE

Place Sainte-

Catherine

Y-DR

ESS ●

MA

RC BY

MA

RC JACOBS ●

THE K

OO

PLES ●

CAN

VAS W

HIT

E ●

ESSENTIE

L ●

STIJL ●

AN

NEM

IE V

ERBEK

E ●

PLUS O

NE ●

BASH ●

BE ORIG

INA

L ●

MA

RIAN

NE T

IMPER

MA

N ●

ON

E STEP ●

FILIP

PA K ●

DIE

SEL ●

COTÉLAC ●

KUR

E ●

SAN

DRO

●

COM

PTOIR

DES C

OTO

NN

IER

S ●

KA

RTELL ●

HU

NTIN

G AN

D CO

LLECTING ●

MAISON MARTIN

MARGIELA ●

● N

ICO

LAS W

OIT

LA FABRICA ●

N.D.C MADE

BY HAND ●

CAFÉ

COSTUME ●

KURE

Despite opening only recently,

Kure concept store has quickly

become a popular meeting place

for Brussels’ fashion elite. A

premium multi-brand boutique,

accessory specialist, industrial

furniture supplier and art gal-

lery in one, Kure is a unique

addition to the city’s shopping

scene. Brands include some of

the world’s most alluring labels;

expect pieces by Vanessa Bru-

no, BLK DNM, Carin Wester

and Won Hundred to be among

the carefully edited range.

Kure,

48 rue Antoine Dansaert,

1000 Brussels,

+32 (0)2 265 1217,

kureconceptstore.com

SHOP Recommendation

Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer

P.22

Featured In This Issue

SHOP | 51

Boulevard de Waterloo &

Avenue de la Toison d’Or

RU

ED

E BU

RGER

KA

PIT

EIN

CR

EP

EISTR

AAT

RU

EE

RN

ES

T AL

LA

RD

R

UE

DE

S D

RA

PIE

RS

RU

ED

ES

CH

EV

AL

IER

S

RU

ED

E LA

RE

GE

NC

E

BOULEVARD D

E WATERLOO

AV

. LO

UIS

E

R

UE A

UX

LAIN

ES

RU

E AU

X L

AIN

ES

AVENUE DE LA TOISON D

’OR

CH

AU

SS

ÉD

’LX

EL

LE

S

RU

ED

EN

AM

UR

NEU

HA

US ●

WO

LFERS ●

7 FOR

ALL M

AN

KIN

D ●

LE TAN

NEU

R ●

GIN

EL ●

SA

MS

ON

ITE BLA

CK LA

BEL ●

SC

APA

●

LA M

AIS

ON

DU

DIA

MA

NT ●

MA

NA

LYS JO

AILLER

IE ●

LA P

ERLA

●

BR

UN

ELLO C

UCIN

ELLI ●

AN

NE FO

NTA

INE ●

LOR

O PIA

NA

●

HA

CKETT ●

BU

RB

ERR

Y ●

AB

ERCR

OM

BIE &

FITCH ●

AR

MA

NI JU

NIO

R ●

BO

SS B

Y H

UG

O B

OS

S ●

RO

BER

T CLERG

ERIE

●

DELVA

UX

●

GIO

RG

IO A

RM

AN

I ●

LIAIG

RE ●

ERM

ENEG

ILDO

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NA

●

SC

AB

AL ●

SER

GIO

RO

SS

I ●

BU

LGA

RI ●

CHR

ISTO

FLE ●

GILS

ON

●

FACO

NN

AB

LE ●

TOD

'S ●

EMP

OR

IO A

RM

AN

I ●

PAU

LE KA

●

GU

CCI ●

HER

MÈS ●

RA

LPH

LAU

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●

JIMM

Y CH

OO

●

CA

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●

SO

NIA

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KIEL ●

ERIC B

OM

PAR

D ●

M. LA

SC

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●

YV

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RM

E ●

PATRIZ

IA P

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DIA

NE V

ON

FUR

STEN

BER

G ●

LOU

IS VU

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●

CHR

ISTIA

N D

IOR

●

SA

LVATOR

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AG

AM

O ●

CHA

NEL ●

VER

SA

CE ●

FRATELLI R

OS

SETTI ●

TIFFAN

Y &

CO. ●

● P

UM

A

● ICI PA

RIS X

L

● TA

KE O

FF

● P

RA

NG

LE

● P

ULS

ION

● FN

●

AC

GA

LERIE TO

ISO

N D

'OR

● CO

SY

NS B

IJOU

TERIE

● X

AN

DR

ESS

● TO

MM

Y H

ILFIGER

● N

EUH

AU

S

● H

EMA●

OTH

ER S

TOR

IES

● U

NO

DE 50

● LA

UTR

ÈC CH

AU

SS

UR

ES

● G

EOX

● A

UB

AD

E

● K

IEHL'S

● ES

PR

IT

● C

ATIMIN

I

● 10

01 PATTES

● M

OR

GA

N

● C

YR

ILLUS

● U

TERQ

UË

● P

ETIT BATEA

U

● IC

E WATC

H

● B

OU

VY

NATA

N ●

PAR

MEN

TIER ●

MARy

Since Mary Delluc opened

her frst chocolate emporium

in 1919, her name has become

synonymous with refned el-

egance. The Mary boutique in

rue Royale has an art deco in-

terior, complemented by intri-

cate product displays and rich

swathes of fabric, while every

chocolate purchased is present-

ed in handcrafted boxes covered

in plain silk. Everything is made

using traditional methods and

the fnest raw materials; the ex-

pansive range includes pralines,

caramels and fresh creams.

Mary, 73 rue Royale,

1000 Brussels,

+32 (0)2 217 4500,

mary.be

globalblue.com

52 | GUIDE

Avenue Louise

RUE DE BURGER

KA

PIT

EIN

CR

EP

EISTR

AAT

JEAN

D’A

RDENN

ESTRAAT

RUE TASSON-SNEL

RUE S

OU

VER

AIN

E

RU

EDE L

ACO

NCO

RDE

RUE

VEY

DT

R

UE

DE

SD

RA

PIE

RS

DEFACQZSTRAAT

RUE DEFACQZ

RUE BOSQUET

RUE BERCKMANS

RU

ED

ELIV

OU

RN

E

RU

E D

E LIV

OU

RN

E

RUE BLANCHE

RU

EFA

IDER

R

UE D

U BEAU S

ITE

RU

ED

ESC

HE

VA

LIE

RS

RUE PAUL EMILE JANSON

RUE DU PRINCE ROYAL

RUE DEFACQZ

A

V. LO

UIS

E

AV

EN

UE

LOU

ISE

A

VE

NU

E LO

UIS

E

AV

EN

UE

LOU

ISE

AV

EN

UE

LOU

ISE

A

VE

NU

E LO

UIS

E

C

HA

US

SÉ

ED

E C

HA

RL

ER

OI

C

HA

US

SÉ

E D

E C

HA

RL

ER

OI

●GRAND OPTICAL

●BOUVY

● ZARA

● GALERIA IN

NO

● M

ASSIMO DUTTI

●GUESS

●123

● ZARA HOME

● CELIO CLUB

●BCBGMAXAZRIA

●COS

●SUD EXPRESS

●MAJE

● SUPERDRY

●OPTIC & VISION

●WOLFORD

● M

ARC O'POLO

● FREELANCE

●APOSTROPHE

●CAROLL

● M

ADURO

● UN JOUR AILLEURS

● J.M

. WESTON

●BIJOUX BURMA

● ANNICK GOUTAL

● CHURCH'S

●

URBAN OUTFITTERS

FREYWILLE ●

NESPRESSO ●

KAREN MILLEN ●

LONGCHAMP ●

ICI PARIS XL ●

MAX & CO ●

MONTBLANC ●

HUGO BOSS ●

TARA JARMON ●

MARINA RINALDI ●

MAX MARA ●

CAROLINE BISS ●

GÉRARD DAREL ●

DEVERNOIS ●

FATHER & SONS ●

JOHN BRAYE ●

BOSE ●

PULL & BEAR ●

VILLEROY & BOCH ●

RIVER WOODS ●

PELLINI ●

THE FASHION

OUTLET ●

BASE ●

BOWEN ●

MAC ●

● CASHMERE STORE

●SCRIPT AVENUE

●

NO CONCEPT

●COLLECTIO

N D'HEURE

● LES ATELIERS DE LA M

AILLE

● NATHAN-BAUME M

AROQUINERIE

● DAVID M

AYER

● JEAN-PAUL BARRIO

L

● THÉOPHILE & PATACHOU

● NATAN

● W

ILLMAN PARIS

GULLIVER BIG

● & TALL SIZE

● SENTEURS D'AILLEURS

●LOUISE FIFTYFOUR

● M

AJE

● FURLA

● FRANCIS FERENT

● KONSTANTINE STARKE

● SANDRO

● CLAUDIE PIERLOT

● ESSENTIEL

● NOUKIE'S

● THE KOOPLES

● PRONUPTIA

● BONPOINT

● COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS

● ADOLFO DOMINGUEZ

● ZADIG & VOLTAIRE

● M

ER DU NORD

● SARAH PACINI

● RODIER

NEUHAUS ●

BLAZER ●

GANT ●

WEILL ●

LA MAISON DE LA PERLE ●

SERNEELS ●

VIA VERRI ●

BOUTIQUE LUISA ●

HOLEMANS ●

PIERRE MARCOLINI ●

HALL OF TIME ●

CROSSWORD ●

AXIS MUNDO ●

EASY M ●

MOOX OUTSIZE

MANSHOP ●

TINOK ●

DOD JUNIOR ●

181 BY FRANCESCO ROSSI ●

DAVIDOFF ●

SUBDUED ● PARALLELE ●

CHAUSSURES CALPIERRE●

TO

UIJA

R C

RÉ

AT

ION

●

Global Blue Retailer

Featured In This Issue

Non-Global Blue Retailer

P.74

SHOP | 53

DUBOISSTRA AT

OU

DESTEEN

WEG

PIJLSTR A AT

RO

TTERDAMSTR

AAT

GODEFRIDUSK A AI

VEKESTRAAT

PRINSSTR A AT

LANGE LEEMSTRAAT

BERVOETSTR A AT

ALMOEZENIER S T R AAT

TOLSTRAAT

WELVA A RTSTRAAT

VRIJHEIDSTRA AT

MOLENSTRAAT

KEMPENSTR A AT

PA ARDENM ARKT

SINT-JASPELIN

d

DA

MB

RU

GG

ES

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54 | GUIDE

Lombardevest

Komedieplaats & Korte Gasthuisstraat

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ICI PARIS XL

JUST A SHOE

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MEN AT WORK

SACHA

TOMMY HILFIGER

Atelier Assemblé

Atelier Assemblé’s womenswear collections are instantly recog-nisable; every season the label produces contemporary yet in-herently feminine pieces using a sober colour palette, and is focused on providing a fatter-ing ft. its childrenswear range is similarly impressive and is known for its vibrant colours. if nothing in the store appeals, take advantage of the boutique’s

custom-made service and have a piece from the archive specially tailored to suit your shape.Atelier Assemblé, leopold de Waelstraat 30, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 216 0306, atelierassemble.be

Department Store Shopping Centre/Mall

56 | GUIDE

Vestingstraat Pelikaanstraat

Leysstraat & De Keyserlei

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AKERSSTRAAT

AUGUSTIJNEREI

BASILICA OF THE

HOLY BLOOD

BELFRY

AND

HALLES

THE CANALS

WELCOME CHURCH OF OUR LADY

BEGUINAGE

MINNEWATER

GALERIES SAINT HUBERT

OLD ST. JOHN'S HOSPITAL

Kepinski HotelDuke's Palace

Markt Burg

SimonStevinplein

Sint-Salvatorskerkhhof

Hotel De Tuileriën

The Pand Hotel

Bruges

Tourist Information HotelPlace Of Interest

P.59

P.60

P.60

SHOP | 59

Old Town

Markt Burg

Burg

OU

DE

BE

RG

PHILIPSTOCKSTR A AT

BREIDELSTR A AT

S

TE

EN

ST

RA

AT

MU

NTS

TR

AA

T

VL

AM

ING

ST

RA

AT

WO

LL

ES

TR

AA

T

SF

EE

R 'N

BR

UG

GE

●

KA

NTJU

WE

ELTJE

●

DU

CH

ES

SE

●

KA

NT

HU

ISJE ●

● VENISE

● ROSALINE

● MAISON PICKERY

● KERSTBRUGGE

● DELVAUX

● NATURA● ROCOCO

● CHOCOLATIER VAN OOST ● THE BOTTLE SHOP

● KLEDING DE KAT ● BUBBLES AT HOME

● POINT DE ROSE ● CHOCOHOLIC

● NICKY M

● GALANTE

● CKS

L'ANGOLO ● HERENMODE

● DE 5 ZINTUIGEN

KANTENPARADIJS ●

JOSIANE ANSAELENS ●

● NICO TAEYMANS

● URSUS BRUGGHIAE

THEO ●BITTE KAI RAND ●

MC GREGOR ●JOAQUIM JOFRE ●

PICKERY ●CADEAUX MARGAUX ●

HET BRUGSCH THEEHUIS ●CHOCOLATE HAPPINESS ●

FLANDERS LACE ●MILLE FLEURS ●

AU POINT DE BRUGES ●CHOCOHOLIC ●

● ILSE DE CORTE

FILOU & FRIENDS ●

NICKY M ACCESSOIRES ●

DUE COLLECTION ●PEARLE ●

FNAC ●

● COTÉNOIR

DE

LVA

UX

●

Pergola Kaffee

ChoColatier Van oost

Chocolatier Van oost, a tiny

boutique in the shadow of Bru-

ges’s historic belfry, is known

for its handmade pralines. the

store’s selection combines clas-

sic confectionery with its own

modern take on traditional

recipes; expect to fnd typical

marzipans and trufes along-

side more experimental options,

such as ginger trufes, violet

creams and chocolate caramels

topped with salted fowers.

Chocolatier Van Oost,

Wollestraat 11, 8000 Bruges,

+32 (0)50 331454,

chocolatiervanoost.net

Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer Restaurant

SHOP Recommendation

P.60

60 | GUIDE

Steenstraat & Noordzandstraat

SINT-SALVA

TO

RS

KE

RK

HO

F

G

OE

Z

EPUTS T

RA

AT

ZÜIDZANDSTRAAT

ST

EE

NS

TR

AA

T

S

TE

EN

ST

RA

AT

NO

OR

DZ

AN

DS

TR

AA

T

NO

OR

DZ

AN

DS

TR

AA

T

GE

LD

MU

NT

ST

RA

AT

● GAASTRATHE UNIQUE CHOCOLATE

● EXPERIENCE● FOOT LOCKER

● MOVE ON● GALERIA INNO● MEXX

● CAMAIEU● ZARA● C&A● GEOX● YVES ROCHER

● OKAÏDI● NOTEBOOM● CHOCOLATERIE ROOSE

● ICI PARIS XL● WE WOM● ENCASSIS● ESPRIT

● RUBICA● GILSON● LACE GALLERY

● CROCS● VENIZI● NEW LOOK● HEMA● ONE STEP

LOLA & LIZA ●SCORE ●SPRINGFIELD ●

SIX ●

MAGASIN JULES ●H&M ●FORMEN ●BASE SHOP ●GIRALDO ●BOCAGE ●ZARA ●PIECES ●

VERO MODA / JACK & JONES ●

ZARA KIDS ●

THE BODY SHOP ●ERAM ●

PEIRSEGAELE ●

MARLBORO CLASSICS ●

GÉRARD DAREL ●

KNAPP TARGA ●

VAN BOMMEL ●

KNAPP TARGA ●

MER DU NORD ●

PEAK PERFORMANCE ●

TWICE AS NICE ●SACHA ●

PAPRIKA ●

TOM TAILOR ●

EDC BY ESPRIT ●

WOMEN'SECRET ●H&M ●

OPTIEK DELBECQUE ●RITUALS ●

MOGGY'S ●

VIVA BRUGGE ●LEONIDAS ●ETAM LINGERIE ●

AVANCE ●TIME SQUARE ●DIDI ●

TOMMY HILFIGER ●TALKING FRENCH ●

BONBON-VERHEECKE ●SWAROVSKI ●

PARIS-LONDRES ●L'OCCITANE ●

HUNKEMÖLLER ●RIVER WOODS ●CELIO ●WE MEN ●

UN JOUR AILLEURS ●PICKWICK ●PIMKIE ●MORGAN ● 123 ●NEUHAUS ●

● PICCO BELLO

● NOBODY● SCOTCH 'RBELLE● GERRY WEBER● MCGREGOR

● TOPOLINO● FORMEN● Ö CAMICIE● ESSENZA

● CAROLL● STATE OF ART● MISS SIXTY● MC GREGOR

MEPHISTO ●MAYERLINE ●

● VAN DALEN

● NOUKIES

ICI PARIS XL ●

DDP PARIS ●

VIA GUILA ●BJÖRN BORG ●L'HEROÏNE ●WOLFORD ●

G-STAR ●FANINI ●G-STAR ●

SARAH PACINI ●BROOKLYN ●

BELGACOM CENTER ●DIEPHUIS

LEDERWAREN ●

● SCAPA● PANDORA● KIPLING● LIU JO● JACK WOLFSKIN

● DANNEELS

● CAROLINE BISS● PETIT BATEAU

● EDISAC● PARIS-LONDRES

● PARALLAX● DE ARK VAN ZARREN

● QUIKE VITAL● IKKS● ZARA HOME

● STREET ONE● SAXON● SUPERDRY

● THE CHOCOLATE LIN

E

● D

ILLE &

KAMIL

LE

● R

UE BLANCHE

● L

ACE PARADISE

●

GALERIJ KOEN BROES

● S

TEPHAN DUMON

● MISS MOGGY

● MOGGY’S

● BBYB SHOP

● ROUGEGORGE

MAX MARA●

GEERT POLLENTIER ●

● M

ANGO

CINQUE ●

DOMIQUE MEIR●

TENDRESSE ●

LUC DUCHENE ●REX ●HANS ANDERS ●VERITAS ●

Markt

● RUE NORD

●MELVIN

● DE MOL FASHION

● NR 43ÖÖ

MASSIMO DUTTI ●

Pergola Kaffee

Pergola Kafee’s enduring pop-

ularity is easy to understand,

given its beautifully prepared

traditional cuisine and one of

Bruges’ most romantic loca-

tions. The restaurant comple-

ments its canalside views with

a classic menu. Typical options

include oven-baked lobster and

an authentic bouillabaisse.

Pergola Kafee, Die Swaene,

Steenhouwersdijk,

8000 Bruges,

+32 (0)50 447650,

dieswaene.be

for map go to page 59


GU I DE | 61

Maasmechelen Village

How to GEt tHEREBy car

Leave the E314 at exit

33 and follow the signs

for Leisure Valley. At the

roundabout follow the

signed access road to Leisure

Valley and Maasmechelen

Village. the journey from

Antwerp and Brussels takes

about an hour.

By train

there is a regular SNCB

train service to Ghent

station, which is 20 minutes

by taxi from Maasmechelen

Village.

By Shopping Express®

A direct luxury coach

service runs daily from rue

du Marché aux Herbes in

Brussels to the Village.

By bus

De Lijn runs regular hourly

bus services from Ghent or

Hasselt train stations (no

45); the journey takes an

hour.

5pm

Save time for a visit to

Rodania. this watch outlet

ofers a range of high-

quality, on-trend timepieces.

Maasmechelen Village,

Zetellaan 100,

3630 Maasmechelen,

+32 (0)89 774000,

maasmechelenvillage.com

Opening times

Monday-Friday: 10am-6pm

Saturday-Sunday:

10am-7pm

10am

Admire the vintage-inspired

collections by Dutch brand

Scotch & Soda.

2pm

Stop for lunch at Mea Cuppa;

this café ofers a menu of

bagels, quiches and soup.

PERFECt DAY

62

When you shop the world, shop tax free

/ 7068

73

Key

Refund ofce 11 2 Refund ofce 2

Customs stamp Information

Landside Airside

Security control Check-in area

Stairs

Brussels Zaventem Airport

GatesA01-A08

GatesC01-C50

Gates B01-B40

Departure

i

2

1

Refund ofce details:Brussels Zaventem Airport:

Departure Hall

Transit Hall

Amsterdam Schiphol Airport:

Departures 3/landside, next to

customs

Lounge 2/departures, gate E,

ABN AMRO Bank, counter 1

lounge 3/non-Schengen area

Departures 3/airside

Contact:

[email protected]

+421 232 111 111

Spend a minimum of €125.01 and save

up to 16% of the purchase price. Please

note that the fnal refund you receive

will consist of the VAT total, minus an

administration fee. At some refund

ofces an additional fxed fee per

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point of departure visit customs to

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refund ofces.

1. Shop

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our easy process.

LIKE SHOPPING. BUT BETTER.

Maasmechelen Village. A member of the Chic Outlet Shopping ® Collection of Villages © Maasmechelen Village 2014 *on the recommended retail price

MaasmechelenVillage.com

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Translations

64

28: The Future’s Bright

Светлое Будущее

РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД

Новое поколение передовых

бельгийских дизайнеров открывает

новые и все более удивительные

грани ювелирного мастерства,

рассказывает Фрэнсис Васим

Бельгия заявила о себе как

о центре современной и

креативной моды еще в 1980-

х годах, когда Антверпенская

Шестерка покорила Европу своим

радикальным взглядом на одежду.

С тех пор страна подарила миру

немало талантов, начиная от

дальновидного Мартина Маргелы и

романтичного Оливье Тейскенса и

заканчивая антверпенским дуэтом,

стоящим за маркой Peter Pilotto.

Похоже, что всех бельгийских

модельеров объединяет одно

общее желание – преодолеть

границы творчества и технических

возможностей. Даже местные

ювелиры, предпочитавшие до

недавних пор придерживаться

классической эстетики,

начинают менять свою точку

зрения. На протяжении многих

столетий Антверпен был

крупным центром торговли

бриллиантами, и его ювелирные

салоны, принадлежащие таким

знаменитым брендам, как

Manalys, хранят сокровища,

которым позавидовал бы сам

Алладин. Однако все чаще

ювелирные компании стремятся

применить в своем творчестве

авангардный подход. Например,

марка Baunat регулярно проводит

коллаборации со многими

местными дизайнерами, такими

как Анн Зеллин и Эльке Питерс,

а для создания своей последней

коллекции компания пригласила к

участию популярный бельгийский

бренд Wouters & Hendrix,

получивший славу еще в 1980-х

годах.

Улицы бельгийских городов

усеяны салонами украшений и

галереями современного искусства,

65

где представлены творения таких

дизайнеров как, например, Тин

де Рюиссер, которая использует

как традиционную технику,

так и самую современную с

использованием компьютерных

технологий. Ее накидка из меди

и полиэстера в стиле оригами,

сделанная в рамках защиты

дипломной работы в лондонском

колледже Royal College of Art

в 2009 году, могла бы отлично

смотреться на шоу-показе Ann

Demeulemeester. Многие галереи с

радостью выставляют уникальные

коллекции дизайнера. Так, в

2012 году прошла выставка под

названием Beyond Fashion, где были

показаны потрясающие ожерелья и

манжеты, сделанные из бумажных

купюр евро и рупий.

Хильде Ван Беллегем окончила

антверпенскую академию изящных

искусств Koninklijke Academie voor

Schone Kunsten. Дизайнер открыла

в центре города свое собственное

ателье и выпустила совместную

с De Beers коллекцию украшений

из желтого золота и бриллиантов.

Также она порой создает весьма

удивительные вещи, как, например,

кулон «Ангел», выполненный из

серебра, фарфора, перьев и сургуча.

Ключевыми особенностями

бельгийского дизайна является

изучение самых непредсказуемых

тем и придание украшениям

определенной эмоциональной

окраски. Украшения Анн Зеллин,

вдохновленные ее любовью к

природе и винтажному стилю,

воплощают в себе и то и другое.

Среди материалов, с которыми

работает дизайнер, – бриллианты,

жемчуг, полудрагоценные камни

и, как это ни странно, керамика. Ее

кулон в виде фигурки серебряного

кролика имеет немного грубоватую

форму и сочетается с крестом,

украшенным жемчужинами. Это

очень чувственное и женственное

украшение, которое наверняка

будет передаваться от одного

поколения к другому.

Новое поколение бельгийских

дизайнеров неустанно радует своих

поклонников новым видением

и перспективой использования

классических материалов. Катрин

Вутерс и Карен Хендрикс также

бывшие выпускники факультета

ювелирных дел при антверпенской

академии. Они открыли свой

флагманский магазин, в котором

покупатели могут найти

большой выбор украшений из

серебра, золота и алмазов. «Мы

стремимся создавать нечто

веселое, классическое и, тем не

менее, глубоко индивидуальное»,

– поясняет Вутерс. Она считает,

что ее изделия несут «особый

эмоциональный оттенок,

импонирующий покупателям».

В своей работе дизайнеры

воплощают в жизнь старинные

ремесленнические техники, такие

как перегородчатая эмаль, когда на

золотую или серебряную основу

наносится аппликация из эмали,

в результате чего украшения

выглядят так, словно они попали в

наш мир из доброй сказки.

Дизайнерская студия

Atelier 11, основанная Флер

Янсенс и Людовиком Колперт,

не менее решительно настроена

изменить привычный горизонт

globalblue.com

66

34: Weaving Stories

Ткацкие Историиювелирной индустрии. «Люди

привыкли оценивать украшения

в зависимости от материала –

золота, серебра, бриллиантов

или жемчуга», – говорит

Колперт. Однако дизайнер

отдает предпочтение доступным

и стильным вещам, созданным

по самым высоким стандартам

ювелирного дела. «Нам хочется

экспериментировать, но при

этом оставаться коммерчески

привлекательными», – продолжает

она. Ее коллекции включают

простые и забавные серебряные

украшения, нередко имеющие

яркую расцветку. Визитной

карточкой Atelier 11 является

особая техника порошковой

окраски. Изделия дизайнеров

успели завоевать немало

поклонников среди представителей

модной индустрии, которые в

свою очередь охотно принимают

участие в совместных со

студией коллаборациях. Так,

в коллективных проектах уже

приняли участие такие бренды, как

Martin Margiela, Victor & Rolf, AF

Vandevorst и Raf Simons.

Сочетание бессмертных

традиций и новейших технологий

придает бельгийским украшениям

естественное качество, глубину

и таинственность. Если вам

наскучили обыденные коллекции

с бриллиантами и жемчугом и вы

готовы попробовать нечто новое

и необычное, тогда Бельгия будет

для вас настоящей сокровищницей

ювелирных шедевров.


hildevanbelleghem.be, annezellien.be,

wouters-hendrix.com, atelierelf.com

Традиционный фламандский

гобелен имеет долгую и яркую

историю, а также постоянно

возрастающее влияние на мир

современной моды, – говорит

Стивен Дойг

Существуют определенные аспекты

культурной истории Бельгии,

которые, несмотря на, казалось

бы, совершенное разногласие во

взглядах с подиумом XXI века,

так или иначе, продолжили свой

путь к современному гардеробу.

И не сказать, чтобы результат

был так уж плох. Мировые

дома моды, такие как Valentino,

John Galliano и Marc Jacobs с

Louis Vuitton неоднократно

использовали типичные формы,

глубокие цвета и традиционные

стильные штрихи, присущие

знаменитым фламандским

произведениям искусства.

Поэтому неудивительно, что

искусство гобелена, являющееся

одним из самых известных

ремесел в Бельгии, постоянно

переосмысляется и применятся к

самым инновационным и модным

вещам.

Гобелен, насчитывающий уже

несколько тысяч лет, представляет

собой текстиль с вытканными на

нем изображениями. Некоторые

образцы древнегреческих

гобеленов сохранились до наших

дней. В Европе в средние века

ни один салон не обходился без

драпировки, которая служила

с двойной целью – в качестве

67

украшения и как изоляционный

материал. Стоит упомянуть,

что лучшие работы сначала

появились в город Аррас, что

на севере Франции, однако в

16 веке картина меняется, и

на передовую выходят ткачи

Фландрии, ставшие признанными

мастерами сложнейшей техники.

За многие года они создали

огромное множество гобеленов,

которые, как и любое произведение

искусства, демонстрируют все, от

пасторальных сцен до эпизодов из

классических мифов и истории.

Коллекционеры и индустрия

антиквариата в целом по-прежнему

придают огромное значение

традиционным гобеленам,

однако как вид искусства они уже

слегка устарели. Именно поэтому

появление гобеленов в культуре

моды настолько поразительно.

Дизайнеры от Dolce & Gabbana

и Valentino до Balmain и Rag &

Bone использовали эстетику

гобелена для создания на подиуме

выразительных текстурированных

образов. Dolce & Gabbana

использовали гобелен наряду

с прозрачными и кружевными

тканями, для достижения

эффекта неожиданности: гобелен

преподносился как нечто вполне

современное, за счет парочки

чувственных дополнений.

Предыдущие коллаборации Louis

Vuitton, проводившиеся между

директором Кимом Джонсом и

художниками Джейком и Динос

Чапман приодили к тому, что

эффект гобелена появлялся на

откровенных вечерних платьях

и смокингах, украшенных едва

заметными фрагментами с героями

мультсериалов.

Дрис Ван Нотен еще один из

дизайнеров, которому удалось

переосмыслить традиционную

тематику гобелена и создать нечто

выдающееся и современное.

Ван Нотен ранее уже применял

элементы тканой материи в

пальто и платьях, используя при

этом кружевную вышивку или

же принты, и снова она нашла

отражение в его новой коллекции

весна-лето 2014: сюда вошел

узнаваемый гобеленовый дизайн,

помещенный на спортивных

жилетах и куртках, мистические

цветочные и золотые узоры,

подобные тем, что мы могли

наблюдать в Tournai’s Musée de la

Tapisserie, а также многочисленные

спортивные нотки – номера

в футбольном стиле, молнии

и стильный крой, достойный

21 века. Коллекция женской

одежды для весеннего сезона не

столь акцентирует внимание на

гобелене, тем не менее, она не

лишена некоторых намеков в виде

вышивки на жилетах и куртках,

а также темных цветочных

форм на приглушенном фоне,

проявившихся на пальто и платьях.

Не обошел стороной

гобеленовую тематику и Кристофер

Кейн со своей флористической

коллекцией, куда вошли тонкие

юбки с вышитыми цветочными

узорами. Куртки-бомберы и

платья Джонатана Сандерса

пестрят цветочными герляндами,

а фольклорная коллекция от

Valentino имеет множество

акцентов с гобеленовым эффектом.

globalblue.com

68


光明的未来

美文翻译

新一代新锐设计师正将比利时珠宝业推向

惊喜、灵动的方向，Frances Wasem向我

们娓娓道来

众所周知比利时是新锐创意和设计的大本

营，自1980年代安特卫普六君子的诞生至

今，这里就在源源不断地输出设计人才，

从视觉系的Martin Margiela，到浪漫主

义的Olivier Theyskens和Raf Simons以

及安特卫普学院出生的Peter Pilotto设计

二人组。

比利时的时尚设计师们一直满怀挑

战艺术手法的渴望，而当地的珠宝制造商

大都走传统经典路线。安特卫普几个世纪

以来都是钻石贸易的中心，像Manalys

这样德高望重的珠宝设计屋之璀璨如同

阿里巴巴宝藏一般。然而，声名远扬的设

计不在少数，更多的设计开始走先锋路

线。Baunat就和另一个80年代设计神

话——Wouters & Hendrix合作过一个

系列,并经常和当地设计师合作，如Anne

Zellien和Elke Peeters。

除了珠宝店以外，比利时城市的街边

的艺术画廊也纷纷展出新锐珠宝艺术家的

作品，如Tine de Ruysser，她兼并传统和

Все это делается с одной целью

– привнести элемент классики в

современный стиль и доказать,

что старомодное ремесло не такое

уж и старомодное. Это также

дает дизайнерам определенную

свободу для экспериментов с

цветом и принтами, а также

обеспечивает отличную текстуру

ткани. Фламандский гобелен

еще никогда не смотрелся таким

привлекательным, а возможно

и инновационным.

62: When You Shop The

World, Shop Tax Free

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69

电脑科技，使用铜和涤纶制成可穿的金属

折纸披肩，作为她伦敦皇家艺术学院2009

年博士学位的毕业设计，这件作品即便拿

到Ann Demeulemeester的秀场也不会

逊色。艺术画廊甄选出一些她的概念单品

和她经典的钞票首饰——欧元和卢比制

成的项圈和手镯被置于玻璃器皿中，出现

在她2012年的独立展“超越时尚”当中。

Hilde Van Belleghem也曾就读安

特卫普皇家高级美术学院，在市里有一间

工作室中协同De Beers合作过黄金和钻

石系列。她还设计过令人惊喜的作品，如

Angel——由银、瓷器、羽毛和火漆制作

的吊坠。

比利时设计的一个关键词就是探索未

知，珠宝设计也是同理。Anne Zellien的

珠宝完美地契合了自然和复古元素。她大

胆地将陶瓷融入到钻石、珍珠和半珍贵珠

宝之中，其“深信自然”系列兔子吊坠就是

一只银制小兔和珍珠覆盖的十字吊坠，心

思细腻、充满爱意，是母亲传给女儿的绝

妙礼物。

革新传统材质和工艺是新一代设计师

的方向。同样从安特卫普皇家学院毕业的

Katrin Wouters和Karen Hendrix学习

了金饰工艺，如今开有一家金银钻石饰品

旗舰店，出售有趣、经典但又极具个性的

饰品。Wouters说：“希望我们的设计能够

唤起顾客的共鸣。”这个设计二人组运用

古董工艺，如镂花搪瓷——一种镶了金银

边的琺琅工艺——制造出仿佛从奇幻商店

淘出来的商品。

设计工作室Atelier 11，由Flor Jans-

sens和Ludovik Colpaert组建，同样致力

于挑战传统珠宝设计。“人们仍然将珠宝

等同于金、银、钻石和珍珠”，Colpaert说。

这些设计师们将工艺珠宝的技术运用在平

价的时尚单品上。“我们既革新，也满足商

业需求。”他说道。这个系列包含简单俏皮

的银饰并偶尔稍加色彩粉饰，也是Atelier

11的标志设计，赢得了时尚圈的青睐：这

也意味着它与Martin Margiela、Victor

& Rolf、AF Vandevorst和Raf Simons

的广泛合作。

传统和创新的结合创造出的天然品

质，这种深度和厚重是独一无二的比利时

特色。时尚达人们不屈就于平凡的钻石

和珍珠，而是更青睐新潮和创意的领军设

计。比利时是一个宝藏，专为达人们准备。

baunat.com,

tinederuysser.com,

hildevanbelleghem.be,

annezellien.be,

wouters-hendrix.com,

atelierelf.com

34: Weaving Stories

编织故事

传统的佛兰德织锦有着辉煌且悠久的历

史——其对当今时尚界的影响也在与日俱

增，Stephen Doig报道

比利时文化史中的某些部分，虽看似与21

世纪的时装秀格格不入，仍旧或多或少在

摩登衣橱中占据了一席之地。并且其碰撞

的结果也并非如人们想象的一般刺耳。全

球知名设计师如Valentino、John Gal-

liano与Louis Vuitton的 Marc Jacobs，

都曾经借鉴过著名佛兰德艺术作品中的造

型、暗沉色调与传统服装元素。因此当佛

兰德手工艺中最出名的织锦，被不断改造

并应用到最具创意的前沿时尚单品中时，

一点都不让人惊奇。

织锦艺术——以特定的方式编织面

料从而创造出赏心悦目的图像——可以追

溯到几千年前；从古希腊时期延续下来的

传统仍未泯灭。在中世纪时期的欧洲，每

位贵族的居室内都有织锦装饰，其能起到

装饰与保温的双重功能。曾几何时，最优

秀的织锦作品来自法国北部的Arras，但

自16世纪起，佛兰德的织锦工匠已成为这

门复杂技艺的公认大师。多年来他们创作

出诸多与任何画布上的作品同样精美的织

锦，表现从田园风光，到古典神话与历史

事件等各种主题。

古董收藏界与收藏家们对于传统

globalblue.com

70

当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店

消费时，环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退

税服务（Tax Free Shopping）为您节约

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过？您要做的只是寻找蓝星标志或者问询

商家是否提供环球蓝联（Global Blue）服

务，然后遵循我们简单的退税过程：

1. 消费购物

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表格（Global Blue Tax Free Form），并

记得保存小票。

2. 申请退税

当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的

海关柜台请他们在您的退税表格上盖章，

然后再到我们的客服柜台领取您的退税

款。

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16%的税。请注意：最终退款将包含增值

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为单位收取一定数额的手续费。

日本語翻訳


まばゆい未来

新世代の前衛デザイナーが出現し、意外

で発想豊かな方向に進むベルギーの宝

飾業界について、フランシス・ワセムが語

る。

织锦作品仍十分重视，然而其作为一

种艺术形式已被视为逐渐落伍。这也

是当它在时尚文化中再次出现时，是如

此让人惊叹。从Dolce & Gabbana到

Valentino，Balmain到Rag & Bone品

牌的设计师等一众人等，都用织锦制造方

法创造出纹理丰富的T台作品。Dolce &

Gabbana在透明或蕾丝面料上运用织锦，

营造若隐若现的效果：织锦带来的性感触

觉乃是时下最流行的。在Louis Vuitton

之前的系列中，品牌的男装设计总监Kim

Jones与艺术家Jake与Dinos Chapman

进行合作，将织锦效果运用到魅惑晚礼服

与晚装夹克上，并在图案细节处加入了隐

蔽的摩登卡通元素。

另一位重新诠释传统佛兰德织并以

此创造前卫时尚做的设计师是Dries Van

Noten。Van Noten曾在大衣与连衣裙（

无论是针绣刺绣或是以印染方式为面料绘

上图案）上使用这种手法，还将其运用到

2014春/夏2014男装系列中。这包括在运

动背心和夹克上使用华丽、繁复的织锦设

计，黑暗阴沉的花卉与灿烂的金色调子，

让人立刻联想起Tournai的Musée de la

Tapisserie博物馆中悬挂着的织锦挂毯，

不同之处是平添了几许运动气息——球

衣字母设计、拉链、华丽的剪裁与织带装

饰 ——无不是21世纪的最新手法。品牌今

春的女装系列虽然并未大张旗鼓地使用织

锦工艺，然而从绣花背心与夹克的细节，

以及大衣与连衣裙的上攀附着的暗色花朵

中，仍可隐隐见其身影。

织锦手法同样出现在Christopher

Kane的botany lesson（植物学课）系列

中，包括各种带有刺绣与织锦花卉的透明

长裙。Jonathan Saunders品牌的飞行员

夹克和连衣裙上，也可见到花团锦簇的织

锦。Valentino带来的民族风作品中更是

不乏织锦的运用。则一切都旨在为现代风

格注入经典元素：也是这种老式工艺在今

日的运用。人们因此得以色彩与印花上进

行更多实验，为平面布料增添立体感；佛

兰德织锦从未像今日这般引人入胜、充满

创意。



畅购全球，尊享退税

71

ヒルデ・ヴァン・ベレヘムもアントワ

ープの王立芸術学院で学んだ一人だ。ヴァ

ン・ベルヘムはこの街にアトリエを構え、

イエローゴールドとダイアモンドのコレクシ

ョンでデビアスとコラボした他、シルバー

と磁器、羽根、シーリングワックスからで

きたペンダント「エンジェル」など、ちょっ

と意外な作品もデザインしている。

意外性を追究するのがベルギーデ

ザインの重要要素なら、ジュエリーを情緒

に訴えるものにすることもそうだ。自然と

あらゆるヴィンテージ物を愛する心から生

まれたアンネ・ツェリンのジュエリーには、

その両方が盛り込まれている。ダイアモン

ドと真珠、半貴石に、意外にもセラミック

を組み合わせた作品だ。「In nature we

trust」ラビットペンダントは、シルバーを

荒削りして作られたウサギに、真珠を散り

ばめた十字架を寄り添わせた。手に触れ

て心に響く、娘に伝えていきたいと思わせ

る作品だ。

標準的な材料と手法を斬新な方法

で使うというのが、これらの新世代デザイ

ナーのアプローチの真髄だ。カトリン・ウ

ータースとカレン・ヘンドリックスも権威

あるアントワープ王立芸術学院の出身で、

金細工を学んだ。現在は、シルバー、ゴー

ルド、ダイアモンドをベースとした作品を販

売する旗艦店を構えている。「ユーモラス

ベルギーは、アントワープ・シックスが斬

新なファッション観で一躍有名になった

1980年代以来、前衛的な創造性と革新

的デザインの中核として知られてきた。こ

の国はこれまでに、想像性あふれるマル

タン・マルジェラやロマンチックなオリヴィ

エ・ティスケンス、ラフ・シモンズ、アントワ

ープで修業したピーター・ピロットのデザ

イナードュオなど、才能あるデザイナーを

数々生み出して来た。

ベルギーのファッションデザイナー

たちは、芸術的限界、技術的限界を押し

広げたいという願望で一致しているよう

だ。一方、宝飾の世界は最近までどちら

かというと古典的な美意識を守ってきた

ように見える。アントワープは数世紀も昔

からダイアモンドの中心地であり、マナリ

ス（Manalys）など名高い宝飾店ではア

ラジンの宝窟よろしく貴石が煌く。ただ、

そんな歴史ある宝飾店でさえも、近年は

アヴァンギャルドなアプローチを模索する

傾向にある。例えばボウナット（Baunat）

は、1980年代に名を成したウータース&ヘ

ンドリックスとのコラボによる商品ラインを

出している他、アンネ・ツェリンやエルケ・

ピータースといった地元デザイナーともた

びたびコラボレーションを行っている。

ベルギーの街では、宝飾店だけでな

くアートギャラリーでも前衛的な「アート」

ジュエリーが見られる。伝統的技術とコン

ピュータ技術の双方を駆使するティーネ・

デ・ロイセル（Tine de Ruysser）の作品

などだ。彼女がロンドンのロイヤルカレッ

ジ・オブ・アートの博士課程にあった2009

年に作った銅とポリエステルでできた身に

付けられる折り紙ケープは、アン・ドゥムル

メステールのファッションショーで使われ

てもおかしくない。デ・ロイセルにはアート

ギャラリーからコンセプト作品の依頼があ

り、彼女の「バンクノート」ジュエリー（ユ

ーロやルピーのお札を使って織り上げた印

象的なチョーカーやカフス）は2012年の

ソロ展示会「ファッションを超えて」でガラ

スケース入りで陳列された。

globalblue.com

72

34: Weaving Stories

織物語り

伝統的なフランダースのタペストリーには

長く輝かしい歴史があるが、モダンファッ

で古典的、かつ主張のあるものを目指して

いる」というウータースは、自分たちの作

品には「身に着ける人が共感する情緒的

価値」があると感じている。このデザイナ

ードュオは、プリカジュール（金線や銀線

で作った枠組みにエナメルを施す）など古

くからある技法を用いて、とびきり風変わ

りな骨董珍品店で偶然見つけたような趣

の作品を生み出している。　

フロール・ヤンセンスとルドヴィク・コ

ルパートが設立したデザインスタジオ「ア

トリエ11」も、宝飾デザインの通常概念を

打ち破りたいという強い意思は同じだ。「

ジュエリーというと、どうしても金や銀、ダ

イアモンド、真珠を考えがち」というコルパ

ート。アトリエ11では「アートジュエリー」

の技法を使ってお手頃価格のファッショ

ンアイテムを提供している。「実験的であ

りながら一般向けでありたい」とコルパー

トはいう。彼らのコレクションは、シンプル

で遊び心あるシルバーのジュエリーに、今

やアトリエ11の代表的特徴となったパウダ

ーコーティングで色が弾ける作品が混じっ

たもの。そのデザインはファッション界でも

ファンを獲得し、これまでにマルタン・マ

ルジェラ、ヴィクター＆ロルフ、AF ヴァン

デヴォルスト、ラフ・シモンズとのコラボを

実現している。

不朽の伝統と新たなテクニックの組

み合わせによって、有機的で深みがありダ

ークとも言える魅力を生み出すのが、いか

にもベルギー人ならでは。ありきたりのダ

イヤモンドや真珠でなく先駆的で斬新な

ジュエリーが欲しいファッションファンにと

って、ベルギーは紛れもない宝庫だ。


hildevanbelleghem.be, annezellien.be,

wouters-hendrix.com, atelierelf.com

ションの世界でもその影響力は増す一方

だ。スティーヴン・ドイグがレポートする。

ベルギーの文化史は激しく移り変わる21

世紀のファッションショーの世界とは一見

相容れないように見えるが、その中にどう

いうわけか現代人のワードローブに反映さ

れている要素がある。しかも、それが思う

ほど違和感なく馴染んでいるのだ。これま

でヴァレンティノやジョン・ガリアーノ、マ

ーク・ジェイコブス、ルイ・ヴィトンといっ

た国際的なデザイナーが、名高いフランダ

ースの芸術品から形や沈んだ色彩、伝統

衣装的な雰囲気を取り入れてきている。

ベルギー随一の工芸品であるタペストリー

が、次と々新たな解釈で最も革新的な最

先端のファッション作品に応用されている

のも不思議ではない。

タペストリー（美しい絵柄を作るため

に特殊な方法（綴れ織り）で織られたテキ

スタイル）の技の歴史は数千年前まで遡

り、古代ギリシャ時代の名残が今も残る。

中世ヨーロッパでは、貴族の邸宅のインテ

リアは装飾と断熱を兼ねた一連のタペス

トリー無しには完成しなかった。はじめは

北フランスのアラス産が最高級品だった

が、16世紀には、フランダースの織り職人

たちが複雑な技巧を凝らす名人として知ら

れるようになる。彼らが長年にわたって生

み出した数々のタペストリーは、牧歌的な

風景から古典的な神話や歴史上のエピソ

ードを描いたものまで、カンバスに描いた

絵に勝るとも劣らない芸術品だ。

伝統的タペストリーは、今でもコレク

ターの間や骨董品業界で重んじられてい

るが、芸術の形としては少々時代遅れにな

って久しい。それだけに、ファッション文

化に現れたのがなおさら印象的だ。ドル

チェ＆ガッバーナ、ヴァレンティノ、バルマ

ン、ラグ＆ボーンをはじめ多くのデザイナ

ーが、タペストリーの美を取り入れた風合

い豊かな作品をキャットウォーク上で披露

している。ドルチェ＆ガッバーナは、その

重厚感にシアーやレースの生地を合わせ

73



海外でのお買い物が免税に

てピーカブー効果を出し、タペストリー自

体にも官能的な要素でひねりを加えた。

ルイ・ヴィトンでは、メンズウェアダイレク

ターのキム・ジョーンズが以前行った芸術

家ジェイク・アンド・ディノス・チャップマン

とのコラボレーションで、怪しげなドレッ

シングガウンやイブニングジャケットにタ

ペストリー効果を取り入れ、複雑な絵柄

に隠された漫画キャラクターで現代性を

出した。

伝統的なフランダースのタペストリー

を再解釈してアヴァンギャルドなファッ

ションを創り出したもう一人のデザイナー

が、ドリス・ヴァン・ノッテンだ。以前にも（

針編みレースの刺繍か絵柄を生地にプリ

ントする方法で）コートやドレスに使ったこ

とがあるヴァン・ノッテンは、2014年春夏

のメンズウェアコレクションでもタペストリ

ーを取り入れた。スポーツベストやジャケ

ットに贅沢で印象的なタペストリーのデザ

インを用い、暗く沈んだ花柄、金のアクセ

ントと、トゥルネー市タペストリー織物博

物館に掛かっている類のタペストリーを見

事に写し取りつつ、サッカーの背番号のよ

うな数字やジッパー、巧みなカットやウェ

ビングといったスポーティなアクセントで

21世紀風にしている。ウーマンズウェアの

春物コレクションにはこれほど明らかなタ

ペストリーの影響は見られないが、刺繍を

施したベストやジャケット、抑えた地にダ

ークな花柄が舞うコートやドレスといった

形で、アクセント的に使われている。

クリストファー・ケインのコレクション

でも、シアー地のスカートにステッチや刺

繍で花を描いた植物学の授業のような作

品に、タペストリー的なタッチが見受けら

れる。ジョナサン・サンダースでは、ボマー

ジャケットやドレスに針編みレース刺繍の

花綱が、ヴァレンティノでも民族衣装的な

作品にタペストリー効果が見られる。これ

らは全て、現代的なスタイルに古典的な要

素を加える役目を果たしている。昔気質の

工芸が現代に活かされた格好だ。色やプ

リントで冒険することもでき、平坦なファブ

グローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピング制

度をご利用いただきますと、世界各地の有

名ショッピング街にある27万軒を超える加

盟店でのお買い物がお得になります。

年間2600万人が楽しまれているグローバ

ル・ブルーの免税ショッピングを、貴方も

ぜひご利用ください。手続きは簡単。ま

ず、青い星を目印に加盟店を探します。星

が見当たらなければ、店員に「グローバ

ル・ブルー？」とお尋ねください。あとは、

次のステップを踏むだけです。

1. お買い物

お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバル・ブ

ルーの免税書類（タックスフリー・フォー

ム）を受け取ってください。レシートを保

管するのも忘れずに。

2. 還付請求

ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関でレシ

ートに承認印を押してもらってから、グロ

ーバル・ブルーのカスタマーサービスデス

クで払い戻しを受けます。

お問い合わせ：

[email protected]

+421 232 111 111

€125.01以上のお買い物をすれば、購入

価格の最高16％の払い戻しが受けられま

す。最終的な払い戻し額は、付加価値税

（VAT）合計から事務手数料を差し引い

た金額となりますので、その旨ご了承くだ

さい。なお、現金での即日還付が必要な

場合は、還付の場所によって、各タックス

フリーフォームにつき固定の追加手数料を

とられる場合があります。

リックに風合いを与える効果もある。フラ

ンダースのタペストリーが今ほど魅力的で

創意豊かに見えたことはない。

74 | PRODUCTS


Souvenir

sentiments, by love for friends and

family and by dreams of the future,

and her pieces fuse classic roman-

tic and feminine styles with a hint

of the playful. With her strong

focus on the best in materials and

manufacture, Esther is a designer

with a bright future. hl

Sara Esther ring, €1,140,

Touijar Création,

7 rue du Prince Royal,

1050 Brussels,

+32 (0)2 511 4178,

saraesther.be

* for map go to page 52

SPARKLING SUCCESS

Belgian jeweller Sara Esther has a

predilection for precious materials,

as demonstrated by this beauti-

ful ring adorned with diamonds,

rubies and sapphires. Designed

to replicate the texture of lace,

it is crafted from gold and silver

vermeil and covers almost the

full fnger, making it a real state-

ment piece. Esther is inspired by

Download the Louis Vuitton pass appto reveal exclusive content.

Sold exclusively in Louis Vuitton stores.Tel. 02 289 28 28

SHOP Belgium SS14

Documents

Transcript of SHOP Belgium SS14