Sawasdee magazine october 2014

YOUR PERSONAL COPY OctOber 2014Welcome to a world of discoveries

Land of the Unexpected Portraits of China

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WORLD-CLASS LUXURY WITH OVER 100 BRANDSMORE THAN 500FASHION SHOPS

SIAMSTATION

SIAM PARAGONTHE EMPORIUM

PHROM PHONGSTATION

BTS SKY TRAIN

STORE OPEN DAILY10.00 AM 10.00 PM w w w. s i a m p a r a go n . c o . t hwww.emporiumthailand.com

BALENCIAGA / BURBERRY / CANALI / CHANEL / CLUB21 ACCESSORIES / DIOR / DOLCE & GABBANAEMILIO PUCCI / ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA / FENDI / GIORGIO ARMANI / HERMS / JIMMY CHOO

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Contents

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54

VentureKeeping you up to speed with the latest news, trends and exciting events in thailand and beyond. thai spotlight: 1,864 CurVes of Wellness on the road from Chiang Mai to Mae hong son.

traVelogue: Wild, Wild Westfor stunning landscapes and plenty of character, follow irelands Wild atlantic Way. Colours of China a showcase of an ever-changing country, from buzzing cities to scenes of traditional life.

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thai Culture: fortress of diaMondsWe shine the spotlight on the ancient structures within Kampaeng phet historical park.

roYal page royal Kathin Ceremony.

WelCoMe aBoardnews, route tables and maps from thai airways international.

Visionhighlights of this months inflight entertainment offerings.

To enjoy the digital version of SawaSdee, simply go to www.thaiairways.com and click on the Sawasdee banner

Yaks pause in Baishui (White Water) river outside Lijiang, China Photo: Scott a. woodward

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WELCOME

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Please send us an email at [email protected] to let us know your ideas on how we may further improve our services. For more information, please explore our website at www.thaiairways.com and like our Facebook page at www.facebook.com/ThaiAirways for the latest news.

[email protected] www.thaiairways.com like www.facebook.com/ThaiAirways

()

ACM SiWAkiAt JAyEMAACTING President tHAi AirWAYs internAtiOnALPUBLiC COMPAnY LiMited

Welcome aboard our Royal Orchid Service. As the flag carrier of the Kingdom of Thailand, in addition to providing services of international standard to maximise passenger satisfaction, THAI recognises the importance of its role in driving social growth and expansion, which will contribute to national development. This is reflected in our commitment to arrange special flights every year, bringing pilgrims to Saudi Arabia during Hajj.

As for our efforts to further enhance customers travel convenience and comfort, THAI recently took delivery of the second Boeing 787-8 Dreamliner aircraft in mid-September to join the fleet. These new aircraft are in line with THAIs modern and efficient fleet development strategy. Because of the low fuel consumption, the Dreamliner is environmentally friendly while helping to improve operational efficiency and reduce carbon emissions. These two 787-8 Dreamliner aircraft will be utilised for operations on the routes between Bangkok and Perth, Australia and to Tokyo, Japan. These new aircraft will surely make your trip with THAI even more comfortable and pleasant.

I would like to assure our passengers that THAI is dedicated to develop quality products and services to meet customers needs while introducing new ones to ensure a greater travel experience with THAI throughout the journey.

No matter which destination you fly, I wish you a pleasant journey and thank you for choosing to fly THAI.

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tHAi AiRWAys inteRnAtionAL PUBLiC CoMPAny LiMiteD89 Vibhavadi rangsit road, Jatujak, Bangkok 10900, thailand www.thaiairways.com

eDitoRiAL ADvisoRy BoARD FLying oFFiCeR sURAPHon isRAngURA nA AyUtHyAexecutive Vice President, Commercial department PetCHPRing sARAsin Vice President, Corporate image and Communications

PUBLiCitAs (tHAiLAnD) LtD5th Floor, Lumpini iBuilding, 239/2 soi sarasin, rajdamri road, Lumpini, Pathumwan, Bangkok 10330, thailandTel: +66 2 651 9273 to 7 Fax: +66 2 651 9278www.publicitas.com/thailand

Managing director steven CHookiAt PAngviPHAs [email protected]

ADveRtising sales & Marketing director JAnyA LiMMAnee [email protected] director PiPAtRA CHooMkAMoL [email protected] executive nAttAPon tACHAMontRekUL [email protected] executive WAtsAMon PHUninLAWAn [email protected] executive nontRA PoonnoPAtHAM [email protected] executive RezA BizMARk [email protected]

PUBLisHingeditorial director RoD MACkenzie Managing editor MiMi gRACHAngnetARA editor Winnie LeUngsub-editor AnUsoRn DeeRAksAContributing sub-editor JACqUeLine DAnAM senior Art director ginny gAyContributing designer WoRAPot BoonyAkAte Contributing designer sHARon Ang

For editorial enquiries, email [email protected] general enquiries, email [email protected]

Managing director JoUi ongCommercial director Betty LisWAntystudio Manager DoReen LAU

is published monthly for Thai airways International Public Company Limited by Publicitas (Thailand) Ltd. The views and opinions expressed or implied in sawasdee do not necessarily reflect those of Thai airways International Public Company Limited or its publishing agent. all information correct at time of print. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the written permission of Thai airways International Public Company Limited and Publicitas (Thailand) Ltd. all rights reserved. Copyright 2014 by Thai airways International Public Company Limited and Publicitas (Thailand) Ltd. Printed by wPS (Thailand) Co., Ltd.

AUstRALiAPUBLisHeRs inteRnAtionALecharlton DSilva Tel: +61 292 523 476 Fax: +61 292 522 022Email: [email protected]

AUstRiAPUBLiCitAs AUstRiAAndrea Kuefstein Tel: +43 121 153 0 Fax: +43 121 216 03Email: [email protected]

BeLgiUMPUBLiCitAsPeter Landsheere Tel: +32 263 984 20 Fax: +32 263 984 30Email: [email protected]

CAnADAPUBLiCitAs CAnADAWayne St. John Tel: +1 416 363 138 8 Fax: +1 416 363 288 9Email: [email protected]

CHinAPUBLiCitAs CHinALibby chen Tel: +86 10 6588 8155 Fax: +86 10 6588 3110Email: [email protected]

DUBAi UAeintegRAteD ADveRtising seRviCesPrasad Amin Tel: +971 444 757 60 Fax: +971 444 757 61Email: [email protected]

FRAnCePUBLiCitAs sAsNicolas Hinfray Tel: +33 153 648 881 Fax: +33 145 009 481Email: [email protected]

geRMAnyPUBLiCitAs gMBHGunnar W. Hintz Tel: +49 69 71 91 49 0 Fax: +49 69 71 91 49 30Email: [email protected]

Hong kong, MACAU, tAiWAnPUBLiCitAs Hong kong LtDMichele Li Tel: +850 251 615 10 Fax: +852 252 832 60Email: [email protected]

inDiAMeDiAsCoPe PUBLiCitAs (i) Pvt LtDrachna Gulati Tel: +91 11 2373 0869 (d); +91 11 2373 0873-74 Fax: +91 11 2373 0868Email: [email protected]

inDonesiAPt MeDiA MAnDiRiSarah Grace Hutabarat Tel: +62 218 355 510 Fax: +62 218 293 563Email: [email protected]

itALyPUBLiCitAs inteRnAtionAL s.P.A.Marzia Solinas Tel: + 39 02 55 19 43 85 Fax: + 39 02 55 19 90 19Email: [email protected]

JAPAnPUBLiCitAs JAPAn k.k.Hiroko Minato Tel: +81 335 476 333 Fax: +81 335 476 330Email: [email protected]

koReAMeDiReP Co.Soohoon Oh Tel: +82 2 734 0786 Fax: +82 2 734 0787Email: [email protected]

LAtin AMeRiCAPUBLiCitAs CHARney / PALACios & Co.Lucio Grimaldi Tel: +1 786 388 6390 Fax: +1 786 388 9113Email: [email protected]

MALAysiAPUBLiCitAs inteRnAtionAL sDn BHDAudrey cheong Tel: +60 377 296 923 Fax: +60 377 297 115Email: [email protected]

tHe netHeRLAnDsPUBLiCitAs B.v.Marc Nelisse Tel: +31 203 119 710 Fax: +31 203 119 712Email: [email protected]

noRtH AMeRiCAPUBLiCitAs UsAbruce brandfon Tel: +1 212 330 073 4 Fax: +1 212 599 829 8Email: [email protected]

singAPoRePUBLiCitAs singAPoRe Pte LtDJoui Ong Tel: +65 6836 2272 Fax: +65 6634 5231 Email: [email protected] thay Tel: +65 6836 2272 Fax: +65 6634 5231 Email: [email protected]

sPAinPUBLiCitAsbibiana Mojarro Tel: +34 913 237 913 Fax: +34 917 335 958Email: [email protected]

sWitzeRLAnDADnAtive s.A.Pierre Denonin Tel: +41 227 964 626 Fax: +41 227 970 270Email: [email protected] Girardot Tel: +41 227 964 626 Fax: +41 227 970 270 Email: [email protected]

UniteD kingDoMPUBLiCitAs LtDAne elorriaga Tel: +44 203 263 6100 Fax: +44 203 263 6133Email: [email protected]

oveRseAs ADveRtising RePResentAtives

Like thai Airways internationals Facebook page at www.facebook.com/ThaiAirways for the latest news and updates

awards & accolades Gold Award, Best Use of Photography Single

Feature, 2014 Content Marketing Awards

Award of Excellence for Design & Layout, APEX 2014 Awards

Bronze Awards, Design: Best Use of Photography; Editorial: Best Overall Editorial, Custom Content Councils 2013 Pearl Awards

Honourable Mention for Best Magazine Design, 43rd Creativity Print & Packaging Awards 2013

Gold Award, 8th Thai Print Awards 2013

Award of Excellence for Magazine Design, Society of Publishers in Asia (SOPA) 2013 Awards

Winner

LIMITED EDITIONTissot T-Touch II 17th Asian Games

TA C T I L ET E C H N O L O G Y

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ventUReplaCes, faCes, experienCes & More

exPeRienCe syDneyhave a side of scenery with your drinks and nibbles when you visit the theatre Bar at the end of the Wharf... or try other truly authentic experiences next time you find yourself in this spectacular city (see page 30).

16 events22 tRAveL neWs28 gUARDiAns oF HeRitAge30 Jet set 36 FooD FoR tHoUgHt 40 tHAi styLe42 My WoRLD

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eventsthis month

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12 oCtthe Color run, australiathis five-kilometre fun run on the sunshine Coast sees runners of all ages and fitness levels completely covered in coloured powder by the time theyve completed the course. thecolorrun.com.au

15 oCt hi seoul festiVal this is the one time of year when seoul residents take to the streets to celebrate culture and the arts. look out for exhibitions, performances and a host of other activities held at various venues in the city. hiseoulfest.com

412 oCt shanghai rolex Masters held at Qi Zhong tennis Center in shanghais Minhang district, this tournament is one of only nine atp Masters 1000 tournaments in the world and is the culmination and feature event of the asian swing. en.shanghairolexmasters.com

813 oCt sapporo short fest this biennial event was first held in 2006 to present quality short films. Besides screenings, there are also digital filmmaking workshops and an iron filmmakers Contest, where participants make one-minute films within 24 hours. sapporoshortfest.jp

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1319 oCt handiCraft festiVal, Vientiane get your wallet handy as youll find it hard to resist the beautiful handmade pieces on sale. from textiles to jewellery, the range is extensive and represents the fine craftsmanship that can be found throughout laos. tourismlaos.org

2226 oCt (off)iCielle, paris held for the first time this year, (off)icielle will see 60 galleries from 13 countries showcasing works by young artists at les docks Cit de la Mode et du design. officielleartfair.com

28 oCt2 nov oslo World MusiC festiVal British music magazine Songlines has included the oslo World Music festival in its list of the worlds top 25 international festivals five years in a row, a testament to the norwegian events commitment to this art form. osloworld.no

eventscoming

soon

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1319 nov 15tH eURoPeAn

Union FiLM FestivAL, PenAng

Selected Golden Screen Cinemas

will screen award-winning films

from europe in this annual event. each film offers a

unique perspective into the rich and

diverse cultures of the european

continent. euff.com.my

3 nov Jidai Matsuri, toKYo a millenniums worth of history is packed into one afternoon during this festival, which takes place in the citys asakusa district. also known as historical parade, it is a visual feast of people dressed in costumes dating back to the mid-15th century.

89 nov the festiVal, los angeles some of the worlds best artisanal beer, cider and mead makers will be at Crafted at the port of los angeles in san pedro to show off their wares. Visitors can chat with the brewers to find out more about their craft and sample exclusive concoctions created just for this event. sheltonbrothers.com

22 nov polo in the CitY, BrisBane this is australias only national polo series, and one of the largest polo series in the world. it was the state Winner in the Best sporting event category at the australian event awards 2013, the first time a polo event has achieved such a level of recognition in australia. polointhecity.com

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tHAievents

110 nov harMonY World puppet CarniVal, BangKoK More than 120 puppeteers from all over the world will strive to tickle your funny bone through theatre, film, music and dance. worldpuppetcarnival.com 1315 nov KraBi Bergfah andaMan festiVal lots to see, eat and do at this event, such as watching colourful parades, sampling local seafood dishes and taking part in prayer ceremonies. tourismthailand.org

1316 nov ChiangMai golf ClassiC Major champions Jason dufner of the us and Charl schwartzel of south africa have confirmed their participation at this prestigious

tHAievents

coming soon

event, which will be held at the award-winning alpine golf resort. chiangmaigolfclassic.com

26 nov5 DeC riVer KWai Bridge WeeK and KanChanaBuri red Cross fair 2014highlights include a light-and-sound show and an exhibition about his Majesty King Bhumibol adulyadej. 1214 DeC BangKoK street shoW lumpini, Bangkoks largest public park (right), is a fitting venue for this street performance festival. Mimes, clowns, jugglers and a host of other street performers from thailand and abroad will

30 oCt3 novCentral 67th anniVersarY floWer extraVaganZa, BangKoK a celebration of the founding of Central department store, check out the spectacular fresh flower display at Central Chidlom and handcrafted foam flower sculpture exhibition at Central embassy.

8 oCt rap Bua festiVal, saMut praKan the residents of Bang phli, a district in samut prakan province, offer lotus flowers to Buddha, known locally as luang por to.

9 oCt naga fireBall festiVal, nong Khai each year, around the full moon of the lunar calendars 11th month, a curious sight appears in the night sky above nong Khai reddish balls can be seen rising from the ground along the Mekong river to a height of several hundred metres. this festival celebrates this unusual phenomenon, which coincides with the end of Buddhist lent.

1923 oCt asia talents, BangKoK held as part of Big + Bih, this event showcases the works of 15 international and 15 thai designers around the theme ideas for tomorrow. asiatalents.info

24 oCt1 nov hat Yai Vegetarian festiVal highlights include a vegetarian food eating contest and cooking demonstrations.

either perform at fixed locations within the park or roam through the crowds. bangkokstreetshow.com

1214 DeC hua hin Vintage Car parade Classic cars take to the road from Centara grand Beach resort & Villa in this annual tribute to motoring.

29 DeC3 JAn phu ruea Winter floWers festiVal, loei phu ruea is a famous hilltop

in loei, well-known for its plethora of colourful winter

flowers that bloom at year-end. Bring a warm jacket as the weather gets chilly at the top of this

1.37-metre hill.

Above, from top Buddha statues

in Nong Khai

decorated barges for Rap

Bua festival

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MAke it tHAiLAnD FoR 2015

there are more good reasons to visit

thailand next year as the Kingdoms national tourism

office is planning a series of promotions

and events around the theme of

thainess Year. highlights include

special shopping, health and natural

beauty promotions, as well as monthly

themes such as hello thailand in

January and a fun activity called tour

de thailand in May.tourismthailand.org

BeLLe oF tHe ARtsBell square at hounslow high street in london has

been transformed into an outdoor performance space. it hosts a regular

programme of events comprising productions

from all over europe. Catalan-based Circ panic, for example,

will perform its show The Man who Lost His Buttons (right)

on 11 october, which brings together circus and theatre. bellsquarelondon.com

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UPWARD AnD onWARDthe golden temples and beautiful tropical beaches of thailand have helped to win the Kingdom a place in the united nations World tourism organization (unWto)s annual rankings of the worlds most-visited destinations. Based on 2013 figures, 27 million people visited thailand, which helped the kingdom move up an amazing five positions, the unWto said. Meanwhile, Bangkok was voted Best leisure destination by readers of Business Traveller in the 2014 Business Traveller awards poll. unwto.org, businesstraveller.asia/asia-pacific/awards

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on tHe MAPamerican artist nancy Chandler has been creating colourful, whimsical maps of popular thai destinations since 1974. she recently released the 20th edition of her map of Chiang Mai, which includes new additions such as rachamankha hotel, new city museums like the Chiang Mai City arts & Cultural Centre and top treasure troves such as Kesorn arts. Chandler is also updating her Bangkok map, which she plans to release this month. Both maps can be ordered via her website. nancychandler.net

LegenDARy stoPsif youre heading to one of Club Meds 20 ski resorts in the alps, why not stop by paris first to take in the iconic eiffel tower, louvre and notre dame? You can do this with ease via City stops, a new Club Med programme that allows guests to seamlessly combine their resort vacation with the discovery of an exciting city. flights, hotels, car service transfers and breakfasts are all taken care of so vacationers can relax and enjoy an urban adventure in legendary cities like paris, dubai, istanbul, singapore, shanghai, Bangkok or hong Kong. en.clubmedagents.ca/citystops

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sPoRting CHAnCeCycle down the quiet roads from hammersmith in West london through Battersea park and to Kennington in south london, and youll discover some of the citys iconic sporting sights. stamford Bridge, Chelseas iconic football ground, Craven Cottage, home of fulham fC, and the Kia oval, one of the worlds most famous cricket grounds, are just some of the sporting venues sports fans can enjoy on a new self-guided Barclays Cycle hire route. pick up a free copy of transport for londons (tfl) explore london with Barclays Cycle hire map at central london tube stations and london overground stations to help you navigate your way. tfl.gov.uk

kAWAii kittylos angeles is hosting two major events in honour of hello Kittys 40th anniversary this year. at the Japanese american national Museum, see the worlds first large-scale museum retrospective of the sanrio character. rare and unique pieces will be on display along with an installation of

mixed media works by contemporary artists. the exhibition is on from 11 october to 26 april. geffen Contemporary at MoCa is hosting another first: a convention dedicated to all things Kitty. sanrio.com/hellokitty40th

oPen ACCessenjoy unlimited

free Wi-fi access in various tourist

locations when youre in osaka.

from Kansai international

airport and underground

metro stations to restaurants

and bars, osaka free Wifi allows

visitors to get local information in real

time. the service works for devices

running ios, android

and Windows. osaka-info.jp

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Ratsadakorn-bhibhathana Building, The Grand Palace, Phra Nakhon, Bangkok 10200

Open daily from 9am4:30pm (last admission at 3:30pm)

Tel: +66 2 225 9420, +66 2 225 9230

For more information, visit queensirikitmuseumoftextiles.org

AdmiRe The iNTRicATe Pieces of TexTiles PRoduced By members of the SUPPORT Foundation under Her Majesty the Queens Royal Patronage at the Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles. Home to a trove of priceless pieces of work, the museum also boasts a display of the first national costumes created by Her Majesty and 30 exquisite dresses from Her Majestys personal collection. The museum houses four galleries, each one taking visitors through a brief history of Thai textiles through exhibits, photographs, film and multimedia presentations.

Arts of the Kingdom Museum at Ananta Samakhom Throne Hall, Dusit Palace

open tuesun from 10am5pm (last admission at 4:20pm)

Kindly dress appropriately shorts and sleeveless tops are prohibited, and women are advised to wear a long skirt or thai-style sarong.

tel: +66 2 283 9411, +66 2 283 9185 for gps: 13.771507, 100.513681

For more information, visit artsofthekingdom.com

MASTErFul wooD cArvingS FroM ArTiSAnS oF THE QuEEn SiriKiT inSTiTuTE can be divided into two styles, including bas-relief on wood panels and three-dimensional works. these range from exquisite small dolls of ivory wood and the menu covers for the royal Banquet to a large wood-carved screen. at the arts of the Kingdom Museum, some breathtaking wood-carved masterpieces from the Queen sirikit institute, including an intricate screen with scenes from Sangthong and Himavan Forest, are on display at the ananta samakhom throne hall, dusit palace, and they truly reflect the excellent craftsmanship of the Kingdoms artisans.

THE KINGDOMS MASTERPIECES

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This page, clockwise from

top rightNarongchai

Hutachai inside his studio

Samples of turban shells used

for pearl inlay work

an ornate pearl inlay panel

a set of taloom or trays used to offer

food to monks

The careful, technical and

intricate work behind the art of

pearl inlay

The Royal Craftsmen School is an institution at the Grand Palace established to teach those who are keen to learn about and to breathe life back into Thailands dying traditional arts. Mother-of-pearl inlay is one such treasure that defines Thailands rich cultural heritage

CRAFting A LegACy

gUARDiAns oF HeRitAge

/ words Mimi

Grachangnetara

/ photosthomas de Cian

narongchai hutachais eyes are transfixed on a piece of mother-of-pearl oyster shell so small, only tweezers can hold it in place. With great dexterity, his other hand manoeuvres a vertical saw with ease, and he effortlessly carves out an elegant pattern within minutes.

the very heart of this art lies in ensuring a smooth and even surface for every piece of shell,

says hutachai. Without an even surface, there is no chance of creating a true masterpiece. the second most difficult part of the process is carving out each piece of shell so that it mirrors the original pattern.

Mother-of-pearl inlay is an art that dates back to the ayutthaya era, when siamese kings would commission intricately designed pearl inlay work on temple doors.

today, only a few masters remain, the profession waning in popularity due in part to modernisation, as well as the health risks it poses.

the sawdust from these shells can be detrimental to health whereby years of inhaling the tiny particles may damage the lungs. for this reason, its not so popular with the younger generation, hutachai explains. pearl inlay work is like meditation. anyone who wants to become a true master must have a heart thats still and one thats as cold as ice. for me, pearl inlay work is my first love, and ill be practising it until the day i die.

A new Thai legacy on the legendary Chao Phraya RiverA mega project emerges as a beacon of a prosperous future

Prime location connecting to 40 prominent destinations along 10 kmof Bangkoks historic riverbank, including world heritage sites, commercial centersand world-renown tourist attractions. Surrounded by over 50 luxury hotels and

200 upscale residential projects with convenient access to citywidetransportation options: Park&Ride, BTS, and over 650 daily boat shuttles

Prepare to witness 7 new wondrous world-class attractionsfor the first time in Thailand

Ready to enchant the world in 2017

Tel.+662-118-2211 www.ICONSIAM.com

A New National Landmark is Rising in ThailandSpectacular Beyond Imagination

2 Most Prestige Waterfront Residences of Asia designed to be among the world's best residential properties with the Bangkok skyline rising above the river. An Icon of the futuristic living quality 2 Unrivalled Glamorous Retail & Entertainment Complexes - where the best of world-class brands meet the best of Thailand's exquisite products: 500 shops and 100 of the finest restaurants from around the world State-of-the-Art, World-Class Auditorium, ready to serve ASEAN Economic Community (AEC) Seminars, International Trade Exhibitions and cultural performances The Museum of Treasures, featuring Thailand's Heritage and Wisdom

750,000 sqm of prime development area on over 50 rai on Charoen Nakorn Road

A Transcendent World-Class Destination. Curating a New Paradigm of Excellence with breathtaking design and cutting-edge technology. The unparalleled experience of 21st century lifestyle River Park the Kingdoms largest riverside promenade that will be the ultimate venue to host year-round, world-class events and national activities

Adorned with a dazzling, Multi-Media Water-and- Fire Feature that is the longest in Southeast Asia for enthralling shows of water, fire, light, and sound

2 Exclusive Piers for private yachts and shuttle boats, and convenient access to 73 other piers along the river

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Jet set / words

Joyce Ong

This spread, clockwise

from top rightartwork and installations from various

galleries at the 2 danks Street

arts complex

The distinctive Sydney Opera

House

totALLy AU

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syDney

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syDney

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ck1 Explore an art enclave. Confident and vivacious, australias bustling harbour city has

much to offer beyond its surf, sun and sand. Case in point, gentrification works in recent years have transformed the formerly industrial suburb of Waterloo. the old Kodak factory is now a creative arts complex known simply as 2 danks street (2danksstreet.com.au). its 10 galleries are dedicated to australian and international contemporary art, and a jewellery studio specialises in unique, bespoke designs. nearby, the huge warehouse of doug up on Bourke (douguponbourke.com.au) is filled with antique and industrial furniture and curiosities painstakingly collected from around australia. so cleverly displayed are these treasures, you may think youve wandered into a beautiful gallery.

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3Have dinner in the suburbs. the alternative suburb of newtown may not be quite where you would expect to have a

lavish eight-course degustation-style gastronomic experience featuring top-quality local, sustainable ingredients. But the inventive creations of oscillate Wildlys (oscillatewildly.com.au) head chef Karl firla and the understated elegance of the cosy 30-seat establishment (plus a private dining room upstairs) is a delightful departure from the sometimes-grungy streets of this inner-west suburb. plan ahead as the restaurant is regularly booked out.

2Visit an award-winning garden. the nondescript lawn along vibrant oxford street may have you thinking this an ordinary park, but the true delights of the heritage-listed paddington reservoir

gardens lie below street level. the two chambers of this 19th-century reservoir have been masterfully restored and transformed into a restful urban sanctuary with a reflective pond and a curated collection of Victorian-era ferns. fashioned after the fabled hanging gardens of Babylon and romes Baths of Caracalla, the gardens is designed to highlight the original brick, timber and cast iron framework while incorporating modern elements and materials.

This page, above and right

The Paddington Reservoir

Gardens is an urban sanctuary

for locals and visitors alike

Belowexpect a

gastronomic experience at

Oscillate wildly

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5 Go for drinks with a view. Be rewarded with jaw-dropping panoramic sunset vistas from sydney theatre Companys aptly named the theatre Bar at the end of the Wharf (sydneytheatre.com.au/your-visit/the-theatre-bar-at-the-end-of-the-wharf ) when you make the trek to the tip of pier 4 in Walsh Bay. this

is an everyone bar not only for theatregoers where you can consume stunning harbour views with a side of drinks and nibbles in a laid-back industrial setting. if youre looking to dive into sydneys dynamic small bar scene, check out eau de Vie apothecary (eaudevie.com.au/Sydney) in darlinghurst. the seductive little speakeasy specialises in three-course cocktail degustation adventures, staying true to form with drinks served in vials and beakers. Bar manager phil gandevia better known as dr phil takes pride in pulling out all the stops and experimenting with zany ingredients and techniques to construct delicious treats for you.

4 Go to the market and have a picnic. if its a saturday, make a beeline for eveleigh farmers Market (eveleighmarket.

com.au) to enjoy direct-from-farmers organic produce and artisan foods. Breakfast (and lunch) may be a bacon and egg roll from eumundi smokehouse (eumundismokehouse.com.au), steamed savoury pancakes with organic veggies from perpetually crowded Billy Kwong (kyliekwong.org/billykwongs.aspx), or Bar phos (barpho.com.au) Vietnamese rice noodles in soup with slices of grass-fed beef. With tucker from the market, you can have a grand picnic at Wendy Whiteleys secret garden (Clark Park, Lavender Street). she was the wife of the late Brett Whiteley, australias most prolific avant-garde artist, who channelled her grief over his death into transforming the once-derelict green space into a beautiful picnic spot. today, it is a small haven of exotic foliage, herbs, ferns and fig trees, with the sydney harbour Bridge and opera house as a backdrop.

This page, right, clockwise

from rightThe Theatre Bar

eau de Vie apothecarys

dr Phil concocting

magic behind the bar

The Smoke and Mirrors

cocktail at eau de Vie

This page, right, clockwise

from top

eveleigh Farmers Market

is open every Saturday from

8am to 1pm

The (secret) garden in front

of the whiteleys house

Locals flock to eveleigh Market

for fresh produce

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FooD FoR

tHoUgHt / words

Garry Marchant

Often referred to as the black diamonds of the culinary world, truffles have an intoxicating perfume and an eye-watering price tag that can lift any dish from simple to sublime

FUngi Love

there are the prized black truffles, and then there are the white truffles, their famous cousins from alba, a small town in piedmont, italy. While the black is a winter treat, its season running from about mid-november to March, the four months from september to January belong to the white truffles. they are dug up from the surrounding piedmontese hills and sold in northern italys seasonal truffles fair.

despite their distasteful appearance, truffle enthusiasts agree that they are unique and essential to modern haute cuisine. their musky, sensual aroma drives epicures into paroxysms of praise. they rave about the fragrance, the fungi smell of forest undergrowth and the damp earth. truffles are mysterious, like a legend, says Virginie Khoury, the owner of larbre truffe, a truffle shop in the scenic hilltop town of Vence in the french riviera.

according to truffle expert guy Monier, former proprietor of the Maison de la truffe in paris elegant place de la Madeleine district, chef and author of Les Bonnes Recettes de la Truffe recipe book: the perfume and scent of truffles are more important than the taste.

during truffle season, hunters head into the woods in pursuit of the precious edible gems. every year, some 400,000 truffle trees are planted in france. despite this, the amount of truffles produced in the country is declining, which is why truffles are so rare.

truffle hunters spend every morning during the autumn

months trespassing all over the chilly little

valley, directing their feisty

dogs to sniff under scrubby willows, looking for the

black and white diamonds. the slow, labour-

intensive process of gathering adds

to their mystique (and price).

for more difficult-to-find truffles, hunters in

italy and france traditionally used concupiscent sows to sniff

them out, since some truffle species produce a scent that arouses mating impulses in female pigs. today, mixed-breed dogs are preferred because pigs love to eat the truffles, and an amorous 250-kilogramme sow is difficult to pull off of a tasty truffle. once dug out of the ground, a good truffle, ranging in size from a walnut to a baked potato or larger, should be firm, without any blemishes, bruises or soft spots, and have a good aroma.

truffles only won their deserving place in the culinary world in the early 1800s, when celebrated chefs

the aromas of the whites and blacks are quite different. the white has a stronger perfume. it is aggressive. Black is good in pastry, but white is too strong. gourmands gush that the nutty, earthy flavour of a top-quality truffle is woodsy, a mixture of mushrooms, cocoa and herbs, or that it hints at hazelnuts and even chocolate.

Best sPots to BUy & enJoy

tRUFFLesAcqualagna,

italythe centre of

the regions commercial truffle

market, it hosts an open-air white truffle market at

the end of the year. acqualagna.com

la Beaugravire, Paris, France

try the salt-crusted truffle

croutons with seasonal

vegetables and crushed

black truffle a combination

worthy of a three-Michelin-star

establishment. beaugraviere.com

Maison Premiere, new York

a number of dishes on the regular

menu are topped with thinly shaved

white truffles at this Brooklyn

restaurant. maison premiere.com Phot

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discovered they should be treasured for their unique taste. in the mid-19th century, reforestation opened large tracts of land for truffles. during this golden age of truffle mania, the fungi were so plentiful that cooks used a whole pound when cooking a bird. in the prigord area, people ate them like vegetables.

however, by World War ii, with natural woodlands disappearing, yearly harvests plunged to 400 tonnes. production bottomed out in the 1960s. toward the end of the decade, investors began buying abandoned farms in an attempt to grow truffles using a new generation of truffle host plants. Truffires truffle plantations planted with trees (generally oaks), inoculated with truffle spores are gradually replacing rare wild truffle grounds. While traditionalists may despair, truffle cultivators may soon dominate the industry.

This page, from top

Today, dogs instead of

pigs are used to hunt for

truffles, which range in size from

a walnut to a potato

To savour the delicate scent

and flavour of truffles, have them

with a simple egg dish

today, the demand for these gourmet treats is exploding. the late french lawyer, politician and gastronome Jean anthelme Brillat-savarin once declared: the truffle is a jewel; it is the diamond of the kitchen. the flattering title is appropriate, for the cost as well as the culinary value. the prized, elusive black prigord truffle (now found mostly in provence) cost up to us$1,200 a pound last winter in paris shops.

the best time to eat this ripe perishable delicacy is as soon as possible, although they are also canned, preserved in jars, frozen, packed and sealed in oil or even infused in olive oil.

truffles are very versatile, says Monier, who recommends using white truffles for traditional italian dishes such as pasta, risotto and ravioli, and black in omelettes, pastry, or in meat, fish and vegetable dishes. aficionados suggest that newcomers to truffles eat them with egg dishes or a simple sandwich to appreciate the delicate scent and flavour. toast the bread first. it warms the truffle and you get the perfume, Monier recommends. add olive oil, a slice of truffle and a sprinkling of fleur de sel [a fine sea salt]. the truffle should be hot, not cooked, he advises.

any chef worth his Cordon Bleu will have his favourite way to prepare this delicacy. flash-frozen black truffles, an alternative to fresh truffles, are best when cooked with butter, cream or meats high in fat. preserved black truffles are suitable for some preparations, though the flavour and aroma is much milder than fresh truffles. While traditional french families cook the Christmas bird with truffles, modern chefs are using them in ever more imaginative ways, in salads and with meats, grated and sliced, as garnishes and in soups.

But whichever way you choose to enjoy this celebrated treat, its heady aroma will be indelibly etched in your culinary memory. P

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WORLDAS

IA Bangkok Bank can help connect you to the world. Our extensive nationwide branch network is supplementedby 27 international branches and one representative office in 13 economies,including wholly-owned subsidiaries in Malaysia and China. With a complete range of financial services, modern technology and friendly staff,we can help with all your personal and business banking needs, wherever the world takes you.

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www.bangkokbank.com

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tHAistyLe

/ words Mimi

Grachangnetara

oRgAniCLiFeHealth aficionados can now indulge in chemical-free products produced by local farms across Thailand

farmers friend riceavailable in bulk orders to support local farmers in Yasotorn province, this brand of certified organic rice now makes the perfect gift with elegant packaging by veteran textile company, Khomapastr.facebook.com/farmersfriendrice

CocugarWhat do you get when you mix coconut with sugar? Well cocugar, of course! savour the natural sweetness of coconut blossoms taken from local organic farms in the form of coconut sugar paste or coconut nectar syrup. cocugar.com

Butterfly organic Milk

dairy products that come from happy cows

can only mean one thing theyre good for

the health. Butterfly organic Milk comes

from cows that are free to graze on chemical-

free grass and are raised on a certified organic, non-gMo

vegetarian diet. facebook.com/

butterflyorganicmilk

Baubaustart healthier eating with salad dressing made with soy and sesame oil, basil, or passionfruit and honey, or for the sweet-toothed, chocolate biscotti made from organic coconut sugar. baubaubrand.com

ThailandWhere Global Business EventsComplete Your World Success

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What is your favourite hotel?the Mandarin oriental in Bangkok. this legendary property has an outstanding riverside setting and has been welcoming its guests with a high-level of bespoke service for over 50 years. as a hotelier myself, i am really appreciative of this.

Describe your travel style. i am a very easy traveller, and i prefer to travel light. i like to be comfortable on flights so i usually dress down and stick to light meals in fact, thats the only time when i am practically vegetarian!

What is your favourite city?saint-Martin-de-r on the le de r, off the west coast of france i grew up on this french island in a warm family environment.

What was your most memorable holiday?i recently visited fregate private island (pictured) in the

MyWoRLD

/ interview sakinah Manaff-Green

toP tHRee MUst-Dos

in PARis1 the Muse

dOrsay. i love this old railway station

transformed into a museum. the

monument itself is worth a visit, beyond

the exceptional collections you can

find there.

2 Luxembourg Garden is wonderful

for a leisurely walk, a game of tennis or

pony rides for the children.

3 Visit a typical Parisian brasserie.

i enjoy going to Le Balzar, an old brasserie in the

heart of the Latin Quarter.

MAn on tHe Move

The jet-setting Didier Le Calvez has helmed some of the worlds most legendary

hotels, from New Yorks Pierre hotel to the George V in Paris

and now, the Hotel Le Bristol Paris

from the Oetker Collection. We

chat with him on his travels and some of his top

recommendations in France and

beyond

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Manning the stoves in the two signature restaurants of Bangkoks only fully integrated fi ve-star hotel, convention centre and lifestyle complex is a Frenchman. And Hugo Coudurier is no stranger to working with the stars. After culinary school in Dijon, he worked alongside Jean-Jacques Noguier at the Michelin-starred La Ferme De LHospital in Bossey. His journey also took him to the Hotel des Trois Valees in Courcheval, before moving to the three-Michelin star restaurant Guy Savoy Paris as the sous chef. Las Vegas was his next stop as executive chef of Restaurant Guy Savoy at Caesars Palace. Before making his way to Southeast Asia, Hugo was in charge of the kitchen at the boutique K108 Hotel in Doha, Qatar

His signature additions to the menu at Red Sky are a combination of both classical and contemporary French dishes that are designed to wow the senses. Start of your gastronomic experience with the sublime moreish Black Truffl e Artichoke Soup accompanied by a delightful toasted mushroom brioche. Then the delicate fl avours that come together perfectly in his elegant Avocado & Scottish Samoked Salmon

Gnocchi served with dill, pickled onions and lemon butter, or the Novia Scotia Lobster Vol Au Vent, which offers a burst of light creaminess across the palate. Other standouts include Oven Roasted Halibut with Jasberry Rice, Caramelized Endives and Morel sauce and a personal favourite, the Poached Bresse Poussin Baby Chicken with Truffl e & Foie Gras Fragrant Basmati Rice and a magnifi cent velvety Albufera sauce.

Showcasing his classical culinary upbringing is a fork tender Wagyu Beef Tenderloin Rossini with foie gras, black truffl e, wild mushrooms and Madeira sauce, and a another timeless dish, Warm Old-fashioned Apple Tart and a Vanilla Bourbon Ice Cream.

There is no doubt that this marriage of Hugos inspirational menu with the remarkable 300-label wine list straddling both the Old and New Worlds, jaw-dropping panoramic vistas and groovy music from the live jazz band defi nitely makes Red Sky the only place to impress an out-of-town guest, celebrate the close of a business deal, or even pop that question.

A CULINARY STAR

www.centarahotelsresorts.com T: +66 (0) 2 100 6255 E: [email protected]

Theres a new chef in town and he is working his culinary magic among the stars at Red Sky and Fifty Five at the Centara Grand & Bangkok Convention Centre at CentralWorld.

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This page, clockwise from top

didier Le Calvez and his family were

able to witness baby turtles

hatching while on holiday in the

Seychelles

a poached lobster dish from waku

Ghin restaurant in Singapore

The Shakespeare and Company

bookshop in Paris, which specialises in

english-language literature

seychelles with my wife and children. its a property that is part of the oetker Collection, and the island is a jewel of natural conservation. in less than an hour, we saw over 130 baby turtles hatch from their eggs and run into the sea. it was such an unforgettable sight!

If you had to limit your shopping to just one city, where would it be?paris for the ancient bookstores, the antique dealers and the flea markets. My favourite place to shop for antiques is along the seine here i always discover fascinating objects. recently i came across an amazing old globe the map was so ancient that it contained many geographic inaccuracies. it even represented California as its own island!

What destinations are on your travel bucket list?i have had the chance to travel a lot, all over the world. today, i have the feeling that i do not know france enough. i discovered the french Basque Country last summer, which i found absolutely surprising and beautiful. it made me realise how little i know the regions of my own country. i will try to plan my next family trips in alsace or normandy. for a change of scene, i would like to travel around south america.

Tell us about a great restaurant you tried recently.i had the chance to experience the cuisine of chef tetsuya Wakuda at Waku ghin in singapore. i went with one of my oldest friends and we tried every single dish both of us were delighted by the subtle delicious flavours and elegant presentation. i particularly loved the abalone and lobster.

What are some of your travel essentials? We have a small tradition in the family. every time i travel, my children give me an object to put in my luggage. last time, my son george gave me a piece of quartz he found in our vineyard Chteau Clarisse, and my daughter Clarisse gave me a small stuffed dog. i always bring a blue blazer, which is custom-made by my tailor in paris not too formal, not too informal, i consider it the perfect item of clothing for a man who travels a lot. another essential is a book of course my trips are the only moments when i can really take time to read. Ph

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Silkina Nano www.silkina-nano.comSee you in : Moscow Hong Kong Tokyo Paris New York London Milan

Free Gift Set

[email protected]

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t h a i s p o t l i g h t

Besides natural wonders, the mountainous road from Chiang Mai to Mae Hong Son offers a plethora of possibilities when it comes to a health retreat

/ words Ira de Reuver

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i am almost ready. My raincoat, bathing suit and some warm clothes are packed and my motorbike tank is full. i am about to drive the 1,864 curves that shape the road from Chiang Mai to Mae hong son, a 250-kilometre journey over exhilarating mountainous terrain. i just have one more thing to do: a yoga class to release the city stress before i set off.

i find echo teaching hatha yoga in a balmy room of a traditional wooden house. she explains, i pay a lot of attention to breathing and proper posture so my students wont strain their muscles the wrong way. after class, echo offers me what she calls a healthy cup of mindfulness traditional Chinese tea from the ancient tea culture in which she was born and raised. With a refreshed mind and a newly aligned body i am now ready to go. i start my motorbike and set off into the mountains.

as the traffic gets thinner, i am overwhelmed with that special feeling of freedom travelling by motorbike gives you. the breeze brushes my face, the rhythmic sound of the bike soothes me, and the anticipation of what the road ahead will bring gives me a sense of delight. i start to count

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This spreadMorning at a village in

Mae Hong Son

Insetecho, owner of Sati

The art of Tea and Yoga, strikes a pose

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the 1,864 curves, but soon i lose track and focus on what really matters. paying attention to the road for one, but also taking in the natural beauty that surrounds me.

Mountains and valleys form a vast palette of different shades of green. the white panicles of the swaying grasses seem to catch just a little bit more sunlight than the lush greens surrounding them. i steer clear of a group of cows, crossing the road without a hurry. Chickens push their luck running haphazardly around my motorbike. Butterflies join me for a few metres, before drifting away into the jungle again.

on the road i meet a russian biker, artem, who tells me he is addicted to travelling by motorbike. on this trip, i drove from the south of thailand all the way up, a total of 1,200 kilometres, artem says. driving a motorbike is a wonderful experience in itself, and if you add the spectacular landscapes along this curvy road in the north of thailand, that doubles the pleasure of driving for me.

further on the road, nok sells freshly picked macadamia nuts, harvested from the nearby jungle. Macadamia nuts are among the worlds finest nuts with a buttery taste and a crunchy texture. this rich source of vitamin a, iron and protein gives me a boost for the next part of my trip, the last leg toward the small town of pai, in Mae hong son province.

the tha pai hot springs are located just 7 kilometres southeast of pai. for thousands of years, people all over the world have believed in the healing powers of natural hot springs. the geothermal energy of this underground hot water increases blood circulation, aids digestion and heals skin diseases, to name just a few of the many purported benefits.

the scenic stream that flows through pai park leads me to the hot springs. the steam that whirls up from the natural pools gives it an angelic look. My weary muscles thank me profoundly when i immerse myself into one of the pools. two local women are chatting away while bathing their

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young children. patricia, a tourist, floats next to me and says softly, this feels like paradise. its as if the whole outside world is slowly fading away. i feel the same way.

revitalised i leave pai for the second part of the trip, another 125-kilometre stretch to Mae hong son. at my first pit stop, a thai couple travelling by minibus point at my motorbike and ask if im travelling alone. all the way from Chiang Mai? all the way to Mae hong son? i smile and say yes. they stand up, laughing, and start to applaud and as a reward they give me a fresh coconut. Coconut water is not only rejuvenating, but also contains electrolytes, which makes it a very effective natural hydrating energy drink.

upon arriving at Mae hong son, an interesting image catches my attention. Why is that water buffalo walking around in circles? Marowe, the water buffalo, is strapped in to push a cold press for producing sesame oil. he walks painstakingly slow and whenever ap, his caretaker, loses his attention Marowe stops moving immediately. then ap yells in a particular tone, huh huh, and the buffalo starts walking again. the buffalo walks in circles for four hours the equivalent of 6 kilometres to transform 15 kilogrammes of sun-dried black sesame seeds into 3 to 4 kilogrammes of oil, says sudanee, the owner of the workshop.

open sesame, this magical phrase from the ali Baba story, describes the way sesame is

Far left, clockwise from topIn Mae Hong Son, you may spot water buffalo

dried sunflowers for sale at a jungle market along the road from Pai

Natural ingredients for a facial treatment including cucumber, oranges, guava scrub, honey and sesame oil

LeftView over a small valley with rice terraces

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Belowdried herbs and spices used for wellness treatments at Health Lanna Massage & Spa in Chiang Mai

Opposite page, from topOn the road, near Chiang Mai

Theres nothing quite like riding a motorbike through 1,864 curves of mountain road

HoW to get FRoM CHiAng MAi to MAe Hong sonthe starting point is Chang Puak Gate in the old town of Chiang Mai. From there you take road number 107 in the direction of Mae rim and Mae taeng. Just before Mae taeng, take a left to Pai, road number 1095. this road will bring you all the way to Mae Hong son.

Alternative route: a few kilometres after Mae rim, you will see rimnuar Municipal Office and a local market. take a left onto road number 3009 for a very scenic shortcut that will bring you to the road to Pai.

SaTi The arT oF Tea and Yogafacebook.com/satihouse

Phu Klon CounTrY Clubphuklon.co.th

Tha Pai hoT SPringSAcross the Pai river, 7km southeast of town

Pai hoTSPring SPa reSorTpaihotspringssparesort.com

harvested in the Mae hong son area. the plants are dried, the seed buds pop open and the health benefits come pouring out. sudanee explains, sesame oil is not only used for cooking, but also for making shampoos, soaps, lotions and massage oils. the seeds and oil are a nutritional goldmine with a rich nutty flavour.

few things are more relaxing than a trip to the spa. some 15 kilometres outside of Mae hong son, phu Klon Mud spa (phuklon.co.th) offers facial and full body treatments.

meditation session. My mind is still mulling over my trip through the 1,864 curves of the road from Chiang Mai to Mae hong son. the freedom you have riding a bike combined with all the fantastic wellness opportunities how much better can it get? You determine your own pace, cruise at different altitudes, wander off the main road into hill tribe villages on a whim and stay the night wherever you like. upon envisioning the butterflies that guided me on the way, i drift away in meditation, with a smile on my face.

THaI operates 42 weekly flights to Chiang Mai. For more information, please visit www.thaiairways.com

Phot

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Reu

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travel anywhere in the world with royal Orchid Holidays, and you can enjoy any kind of surroundings in any kind of accommodation. travel with the experts and make the most of your holiday with quality selections.

For more information, visit www.royalorchidholidays.com

the spa is geographically located on a mud source and a natural mineral spring. rising together with the mineral water, the boiling black mud is clean, free of any sulfur odours, and full of healthy minerals for improved skin and blood circulation. they smear my whole body with the black mud, and while it feels dirty at first, the mud not only nourishes and cleanses my skin, but the mineral water helps moisturise it, too.

together with sonja, a dutch tourist, i take a refreshing dip in their mineral water pool after the treatment. sonja says, to let the mud on your body dry up in the sun, without getting sunburnt while staring at the beautiful rice fields and mountains surrounding the spa feels like magic. dont expect a fancy and luxurious spa but your skin will feel glorious after the treatment.

i reach my final destination, 35 kilometres outside of Mae hong son, and register for a meditation course at tam Wua forest monastery (althaiman.ru/thai htm/Province/wattamwua.htm). i set up home in one of their simple huts.

When the monastery bell rings in the early morning, i go to the main hall to join a Vipassana group

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This spread, from left

The stony, windswept and

almost lunar landscape of Inis

Mein island

an Irish seaside classic: mussels and

chips with a cold pint of Guinness

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from stunning wild, windswept and ocean-battered landscapes to luxury hotels, traditional pubs, stylish art galleries, artisan whisky distilleries, fantastic food, wonderful walking trails and, of course, the legendary irish ceol and craic (music and conversation) youll find it all along the longest coastal drive in the world.

generally, tourists start in the north and work their way south. however, over a frothy guinness in dublin, the barman offered us some wise words of advice: if you want to see the sea, start in the south. like in thailand, people drive on the left-hand side, so driving south to north means you hug the waters

In the mood for a European road trip with lots of twists and turns? Try Irelands Wild Atlantic Way, a 2,500-kilometre drive along the Emerald Isles spectacular west coast

/ words Sylvia Gavin/ photos Cedric Arnold

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This page, from leftaerial view of County Clares famed Cliffs of Moher

a gourmet dish using the freshest ingredients at Rathmullan House

The Inis Mein Restaurant & Suites seem to blend perfectly into the landscape

Opposite pageThe chefs of Kai Caf and Restaurant in Galway city

edge. With some vertiginous drops on some very narrow stretches, its not for the faint hearted, but its certainly a smart move for the snap-happy.

and so we started in Cork, a busy historic harbour town also known as irelands food capital. the 19th-century covered english Market (www.englishmarket.ie) is a must-visit. here we stocked up on all manner of scrumptious local produce (including guinness-infused saucisson, no less) for our road trip and met some of the colourful characters behind the food. they like to chat, so best not to be in a hurry!

a 40-minute drive from Cork City is the fishing village of Kinsale the official start of the Wild atlantic Way and a great place to linger over a leisurely seafood lunch, watching the boats come and go. the further west you go in County Cork, the more off the beaten trail you go. We hiked our way along the length of the sheeps head Way, a peninsula jutting out into the atlantic, relishing the stunning views amid splendid isolation. Beyond is the beautifully rugged Beara peninsula, a haven for artists. the sarah Walker gallery (sarahwalkergallery.com) and Mill Cove gallery (millcovegallery.com) are worth a visit.

in the colourful town of Kenmare, we found the perfect base for exploring West Cork and Kerry. nestled on the waters edge, Kenmare has everything you could possibly want stunning scenery, great gourmet restaurants, bustling traditional pubs and unique boutiques. it also sits on the world-renowned ring of Kerry, a 180-kilometre circular route of endless picture-postcard settings. around

every bend is yet another view that made us gasp out loud. We then headed to dingle, billed as the most westerly

town in europe according to the locals, the next stop after dingle is new York! a lovely bustling harbour town, it has long been a tourist destination. We popped into dingle distillery (dingledistillery.ie), a small independent artisan distillery on the outskirts of town where we were talked through the process of whisky distilling. later that evening at dick Macks pub (Tel: +353 66 915 1787) part haberdashery-grocery, part pub thats been around since 1899 a lively music session and way too many whisky choices made for one of the highlights of our trip (though the next morning was admittedly somewhat of a lowlight!).

Weaving our way up along the coastline, we crossed into County Clare, famous for the Burren, a moonscape-like karst region, as well as the wildly dramatic Cliffs of Moher. Chuffed locals informed us that the golf links at doonbeg were recently purchased by american businessman donald trump, confident that this move will bring more people to this part of ireland. despite the cold atlantic waters, surfing is also a big draw here with lots of hardy folk attracted by the waves at lahinch.

a definite highlight of our trip was the island of inis Mein, the middle of the three aran islands. We took a boat from the village of doolin, which is famous for its traditional irish music scene. arriving in inis Mein is like stepping back in time. the island has a total population of about 150, one post office, one shop and one pub, and its a truly beautiful, extraordinarily peaceful place. in truth, what

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attracted us to the island was the inis Mein restaurant & suites (inismeain.com). We were intrigued by the idea of building such an exquisite design hotel in such a seemingly inaccessible place. owned and run by a young irish couple ruair and Marie-thrse de Blacam, the hotel is almost entirely self-reliant. ruair, a native of inis Mein, is the cook in the restaurant (Marie-thrse is the host, sommelier and sometimes baker), which offers an elemental eating experience using prime ingredients from our pure location. if you want to get away from it all, this is the place to go.

the island is also home to the famous inis Mein Knitting Co. (inismeain.ie), whose luxury knitwear is stocked by the likes of liberty of london, Barneys new York and Bergdorf goodman. the factory showroom offers some great discounts worth the effort alone to come here!

Back on the mainland we headed to galway, the fourth largest city in ireland, and a vibrant student town packed with great bars and restaurants. We had a sensational meal at the Kai Caf and restaurant (kaicaferestaurant.com) followed by a fun evening of lively traditional music just down the road at the Crane Bar (thecranebar.com).

from galway we headed west to Connemara, an utterly unspoilt national park on the very edge of europe. dotted along the rugged coastline are quaint fishing villages such as roundstone and Cleggan and beautiful beaches that you may have all to yourself. the majestic twelve Bens mountain range is an ever-dominant presence in the background.

the drive from leenane to louisburg to along the shores of doolough lake in County Mayo is without a doubt one of the most spectacular drives in the country. should you wish for a quintessential country experience, a great place to stay is delphi lodge Country house (delphilodge.ie), situated on a private 1,000-acre estate, and caters for wild salmon fishing and shooting parties.

still in County Mayo, achill island, the largest island off irelands coast, is connected to the mainland by a short bridge, yet still exudes a sense of remoteness. Many writers and artists have made the island their home over the years, and its not difficult to see why. Keem Bay, tucked away at the end of the island, will literally take your breath away.

today, the island draws keen adventurers attracted by the top-notch surfing, rock-climbing and sea kayaking. We spent our time lolling in the garden of Bervie B&B

Top row, from left Cheesemakers in County Cork pose at a family-run farm

The Gap of dunloe, a stunning area of County Kerry

Lobster fishing in Inis Mein

Bottom row, from leftRathmullan House in County donegal

Live music at dick Macs Pub, a legendary venue in dingle

Farmgate Caf at Corks english Market

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dublin and Cork can be reached by train and ferry from London in a days journey, or by plane in about 1.5 hours. THaI operates daily flights to London. For more information, please visit www.thaiairways.com

This spread, from left The english Market is considered the epicurean epicentre of Cork, and a great place to stock up on snacks for the road

at Inis Mein Restaurant & Suites, owner and head chef Ruair de Blacam picks fresh ingredients from his herb garden

(bervie-guesthouse-achill.com), watching sheep ambling along the beach.

heading north, we arrived in County sligo, otherwise known as Yeats country after the nobel laureate W.B. Yeats, who is buried in the shadow of Ben Bulben at drumcliff. perhaps the best meal of our entire trip was a charmingly unfussy one. if you like simple, straight-from-the-sea ingredients, then you absolutely must stop at eithnas by the sea (eithnasrestaurant.com) in the fishing harbour of Mullaghmore. You can even dine in a wetsuit if you wish to stop by after a surfing session.

Continuing up along the coast, we arrived in County donegal, the most northerly county in the republic of ireland. our first stop was slieve league Cliffs, which are higher and less visited than the more famous Cliffs of Moher. in the quaint little town of ardara, we stopped for lunch and a wander round the shops. donegal is famous for its authentic tweed, with local plants such as orange lichen, yellow gorse and blackberries lending it its distinctive flecks of colour.

the last stop of our trip was rathmullan house (rathmullanhouse.com) overlooking lough swilly. the luxurious surroundings of this beautiful family-run country house hotel proved to be the perfect place to relax. We spent our last evening sipping Kinnegar, an excellent local craft ale, and feasting on beetroot-cured salmon, fresh scallops, 30-day dry-aged roast irish beef and fresh vegetables from their private walled garden.

its the perfect end to the perfect road trip. over our last dinner, we made plans to return and travel the Wild atlantic Way once again, but next time, in the reverse direction!

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Wild Atlantic Way 2,500

Wild Atlantic Way

Cork

English Market

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The Sheep's

Head Way

Beara Peninsula

The Sarah Walker Gallery Mill Cove Gallery

Kenmare

Park

Hotel Kenmare Ring

of Kerry 180

Dingle Dick Mack's Pub

.. 1899

County Clare

Cliffs of Moher

Inis Mein

Aran Islands

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Inis Mein Restaurant & Suites

Inis Mein Knitting Co.

Liberty of London, Barneys New

York Bergdorf Goodman

Galway

Kai Caf and Restaurant

The Crane Bar Connemara

Leenane Louisburg

Doolough Lake County Mayo

Achill Island

Keem Bay

County Sligo

Eithna's by the Sea

Mullaghmore

County Donegal

Slieve League Cliffs Cliffs of Moher

Rathmullan

House Lough Swilly

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Kylemore Abbey Connemara

Kai Caf

Dingle

Dingle

Inis Mein

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/ words & photos Scott A. Woodward

When contemplating China, people often imagine the crowded and increasingly cosmopolitan streets of shanghai and Beijing. ive been fortunate enough to visit and photograph these thriving metropolitan centres, documenting their

frenetic energy and economic optimism. it is amazing to me that China has more than 160 cities with a population greater than 1 million people, and i am very

interested in how this is changing rural life for the Chinese who live in the outlying areas of these cities ever-expanding limits. to this point, and to try and seek a different perspective on China, i have spent time shooting the more provincial cities and smaller rural towns of Yunnan province in the picturesque southwest of the country. i relish photographing these quaint, unrehearsed scenes where

traditional life is set against a stunning canvas of rugged, natural beauty.

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Nestled beneath the snowy peaks of the soaring Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, the ancient city of Lijiang with its narrow, winding cobbled streets and gurgling canals truly embodies unique old-world Chinese charm. Opposite page Lijiangs distinctive traditional architecture is still evident throughout the old town

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I am fascinated by the urban sprawl of Chinas metropolises as these cities continue to grow.

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Often called the Paris of the East, Shanghai is modern Chinas crown jewel, a city of shiny shopping malls and teeming with skyscrapers mixed with European colonial and traditional Chinese architecture.

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Opposite pageLocated in decommissioned 1950s-era state-owned military factory buildings in Beijings Chaoyang District, 798 Art

This page, leftFor local flavour, explore old Beijing in one of the citys many labyrinthine hutongs (narrow streets and alleys).

This page, rightAn elderly woman tends to her orchard in Fengle village in northern Yunnan province.

District is home to a burgeoning Chinese arts community.

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LeftShanghai is a remarkable fusion of the modern and the historical, a hornets nest of frenetic energy and (seemingly controlled) chaos.

BelowThe details of a traditional wooden farmhouse in a Tibetan minority village within the area designated Shangri-La by the Chinese government.

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Yunnan is a small but unique slice of giant and enigmatic China. Lijiang, in the north of this province, is home to dozens of ethnic minority groups. The colourful styles of the Yi tribeswomen are on full display here as they gaze out across Yak Meadow on the slopes of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain.

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about the photographer

Canadian photographer Scott a. woodwards sensitive photographic style has resulted in him being honoured by Luerzers archive as one of the 200 Best ad Photographers worldwide and chosen by Nikon as One of asias Finest Photographers. His collections have been the focus of several exhibitions and his work features regularly in international publications such as national geographic, travel + leisure, Monocle and the new York times. Scott is a Nikon ambassador, a Sandisk extreme Team Photographer and a Getty Images Global assignments Photographer, and he is based in Singapore. View more of his work at scottawoodward.com

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/ words Mimi Grachangnetara / illustrations Thanapat Thongsujarit

As locals in Kampaeng Phet province mark a 10-day festival known as Saat Thai Kluay Kai, Sawasdee shines the spotlight on the citys brightest stars

The ancient Sukhothai Kingdom, which flourished during the 13th and 14th centuries CE, boasts a wealth of historical treasures that bear testament to Thailands rich and complex history. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Historic Town of Sukhothai and Associated Historic Towns, comprising Sukhothai Historical Park, Si Satchanalai Historical Park and Kampaeng Phet Historical Park, have, for decades,

drawn visitors entranced by the tales these ancient ruins had to tell. Perhaps the least known of them is Kampaeng Phet Historical Park, home to ancient structures largely made from laterite.

This month, as locals celebrate a 10-day religious festival known as Saat Thai Kluay Kai (until 31 October), theres never a better time to visit this little gem, so steeped in cultural and historical importance.

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standing Buddha (wat Pra si irriyaBot)a full-frontal view of the standing Buddha at pra si irriyabot temple (left)

with laterite temple walls. the temple is located right next to Wat pra non.

at Wat pra si irriyabot, a mondop structure is home to Buddha statues in four postures standing, walking, seated and reclining all of them

representing the elegance typical of the sukhothai era.


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chedi (wat chang roP)this 7-metre high chedi is inspired by Ceylonese architecture. as its name suggests, Wat Chang rop, which means temple surrounded by elephants, is adorned with 68 statues of half-elephants at its base.

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rows of elePhants (wat Pra Kaew)elephants feature prominently at Kampaeng phet historical park, whether its at Wat pra Kaew, Wat Chang rop or Wat Chang puak. pictured here are elephants adorning the exterior walls of Wat Chang rop.


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seated Buddhas (wat Pra si irriyaBot)since the temples name literally means the temple of

Buddha in four postures, seated Buddhas can also be found within the temple grounds, although the reclining Buddha is

no longer in good condition.

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From Bangkok, Kampaeng Phet province and Kampaeng Phet Historical Park can be reached by car in four to five hours.

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Royal Kathin CeremonyAn Auspicious Buddhist Tradition

each year, Buddhist thais celebrate several significant traditions that have been passed on from generation to generation. these traditions include Magha puja, Visakha puja, asalha puja, Khao phansa (the beginning of Buddhist lent), and ok phansa (the end of Buddhist lent). on these special occasions, major merit-making ceremonies are held at various temples where people gather to perform religious activities, as they believe that the merit will bring them peace and happiness. during the period of one month starting from ok phansa day, which falls on the first day of the waning moon of the 11th lunar month, and continues until the full moon day of the 12th lunar month Buddhist thais perform the merit-making of thot Kathin by presenting kathin robes to monks. apart from the thot Kathin performed by the general public, the royal thot Kathin is also carried out, during which the King himself or, by royal command, members of the royal family present monks in temples under royal patronage with robes and gifts. his Majesty King Bhumibol adulyadej has the royal thot Kathin Ceremonies performed annually at 16 prominent temples in both Bangkok and in the provinces. one of the grandest spectacles in thailand is the royal

barge procession for his Majesty the King to present kathin robes to Buddhist monks at Wat arun, or the temple of dawn, in Bangkok. his Majesty revived this ancient tradition, which is usually held only on special occasions. during the present reign, the rare royal barge procession has been held 17 times. the first one took place in 1957 to celebrate the 2,500th year of the Buddhist era. the most recent one took place on 9 november 2012, which was meant to celebrate the 84th birthday anniversary of his Majesty the King on 5 december 2011. the royal barge procession was postponed from the original date, 22 october 2011, since there was severe flooding in many areas of the country. his royal highness Crown prince Maha Vajiralongkorn represented his Majesty the King in travelling by royal barge to Wat arun to present royal kathin robes to a congregation of Buddhist monks. he was seated on the regal Subanahongsa, which is known as a masterpiece of thai cultural heritage. people along the two banks of the Chao phraya river were excited and joyful to see the spectacular procession again, and they were also happy with the merit from the sacred ceremony. Buddhist thais consider the presentation of kathin robes to the monks highly meritorious.

/ words Wineenart Phanvut

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alcoholall drinks are served free of charge. only alcoholic drinks served by our cabin attendants may be consumed.

it is recommended that you drink nonalcoholic drinks as

flying can cause dehydration, but we are happy to serve alcoholic drinks to passengers aged 18 years and over. Cabin attendants may decline to serve alcohol to passengers who appear to be intoxicated. this regulation has been implemented for passenger safety, in accordance with thais air traffic policy and procedures.

Special MealsVegetarian, low-fat, infant, children, kosher and Muslim meals are available on board by

special request. requests for special meals must be

made when making your reservation at least 48 hours in advance.

Speciality itemsa wide range of items is available on thai airways international flights for passengers with special requests, including toys and bibs. ask one of our cabin crew should you require one of the above, or need any assistance.

Communicationsome of our aircraft are equipped with cordless telephones and facsimile machines. the charge for their use is us$8 per minute.

Special Care for Childrenthere are special services for

children aged between 5 and 16 who are travelling alone.

a fee applies. please give us advance notice so that your child can enjoy our

constant care and supervision throughout his/her journey.

At yoUR seRviCe

Carry-on baggagepassengers may carry one item of hand baggage to place in a closed overhead bin or under the seat in front of them. the overall dimensions of such baggage should not exceed 115cm (45 inches) or 58 x 34 x 23cm. its overall weight should not exceed 7kg.

Alcoholic beverages and cigarettesAlcoholic beverages and cigarettes are controlled items. A passenger is allowed to bring 1 litre of alcoholic beverages and 200 cigarettes into thailand free of duty. the exceeding amount will be prosecuted and confiscated.

1 200

Foreign currency Any person who brings or takes an aggregate amount of foreign currency exceeding Us$20,000 or its equivalent out of or into the Kingdom of thailand shall declare such amount of foreign currency to a customs officer. Failure to declare upon bringing foreign currency that exceeds the amount restricted by law or its equivalent out of or into the Kingdom of thailand or making any false declaration to a customs officer is breaking customs laws. if you have any enquiries, please consult a customs officer.

(20,000 )

Customs laws

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essential information to make your thai flight as smooth as possible.

onBoARD essentiALs

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please study the safety card in your front seat pocket and locate the closest emergency exits near you. Be sure to keep your seat belt fastened during takeoff and landing, and at all times while seated. for safety reasons, passengers are asked to refrain from sleeping on the aircraft floor and unnecessary walking during the flight. sleeping passengers may be injured during unexpected turbulence unless firmly restrained by their seat belt. after landing, please remain in your seat with your seat belt fastened until the aircraft has come to a complete stop and the fasten seat belt sign has been switched off. electronic devices1. prohibited devices on board at all times for your safety portable electronic devices such as radio transmitters, walkie-talkies, portable radio-controlled toys, radios, television receivers, citizen band radios, pagers, electronic toys and wireless devices (mouse, bluetooth, etc) must be switched off once the aircraft doors have closed and shall not be used on board during the entire flight.2. for safety reasons during takeoff and landing, all mobile phones and acceptable electronic devices including portable video equipment, laptops or portable pCs without printers, cassettes/Cd/dVd/mini disc/Mp3 players (used with headphones only), electronic games,

electronic calculators, electronic shavers and tablets must be turned off or switched to flight mode and are not allowed to be used until the fasten seat belt sign has been turned off.

however, use of any portable device suspected of interfering with flight operation shall be prohibited. 3. acceptable devices on board for entire flight: hearing aids, heart pacemakers, electronic watches and authorised inflight equipment are allowed during the flight.

beverages on boardalcoholic drinks will not be served to passengers aged under 18 years. Cabin attendants reserve the right to decline serving alcohol to passengers who appear intoxicated. Consumption of personal alcoholic drinks is prohibited on board at any time.

Smoking smoking is not permitted by law on all thai flights.

FoR yoUR sAFety

1. 2. ///MP3

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the regulations have been implemented for passenger safety, in accordance with tHAis air traffic policy and procedures. tHAis flight attendants follow specific measures that strictly comply with safety regulations set by the civil aviation board to secure the safety of aircraft, passengers and airline property.

gentLe inFLigHt exeRCises

1 ankle Circles lift feet off the floor. draw a circle with the toes, moving one foot clockwise and the other foot anti-clockwise. reverse

circles. do each direction for 15 seconds.

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tipDrink plenty of water or juice during your flight

3 Forward Flex With both feet on the floor and stomach held in, slowly bend foward and walk your hands down the front of your legs toward your ankles. hold stretch for 15 seconds and slowly sit back.

Sawasdee magazine october 2014

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Transcript of Sawasdee magazine october 2014