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INDEXREFERENCE GUIDE FEATURES AND PARTS.NEEDLE.ThREADFABRICSTITCHING GUIDESETTING THE NEEDLEWINDING THE BOBBINTO REMOVE OR REPLACE BOBBIN CASETO THREAD THE BOBBIN CASEUPPER THREADINGSETTING THE STITCH LENGTHSTITCH LENGTH CHART (APPROXIMATE)SEWING IN REVERSEPREPARING TO SEWREMOVING THE WORKADJUSTING THE TENSIONSSTRAIGHT STITCHINGADJUSTING PRESSURE AND FEEDING OFFABRICSEWING THIN OR LIGHT WEIGHT FABRICSDARNING AND MENDINGZIGZAG STITCHINGNEEDLE POSITION CONTROLCREATIVE EMBROIDERYEMBROIDERY PATTERNSSAMPLE EMBROIDERY PATTERNSTWIN NEEDLES-UpPER THREADING ANDSEWING
BUILT IN DECORATIVE STITCH DESIGNSBLIND HEMMING
INDEX
Page Page1 BUTTONHOLES 21—22
2— 3 SEWING ON BUTTONS 234 SEAM GAUGE OR CLOTH GUIDE 245 NARROWHEMMER 256 LACE TRIMMED HEM 267 LACE EDGE WITH INVISIBLE STITCHING 268 FRENCH SEAM 269 HEMMINGACROSSASEAM 26
10 THE ADJUSTABLE CORDING AND ZIPPER10 FOOT 2710 SEWING IN A ZIPPER 2711 CARE AND MAINTENANCE OF YOUR
MACHINE 2812 HOWTO OILYQUR MACHINE 2913 HOW TO REPLACE THE LIGHT BULB 29
HOW TO CHANGE THE BELT 3014 ACCESSORIES 3114 TROUBLECHART 32—3414 SOME OF THE ATTACHMENTS AVAI LABLEis’ FORYQURMACHINE 3615 ATTACHMENT FOOT 3716 EDGESTITCHER 37—3816 BINDER 3917 FOLDED BINDING 39
TWO-TONE BINDING 3918 HAND-CUT BIAS BINDING 3919 THE SETOF HEMMERS 4020 HEMMER SET 4041
2.3.4.5.6.7.8.9.
10.11.12.13.14.
Spool PinsHand WheelStop Motion KnobStitch Length DialReverse Push ButtonZigzag Width LeverStop LockFabric SelectorBedNeedle PlateSlide PlatePresser FootPresser Foot Thumb ScrewNeedle Bar Thread Guide
REFERENCE GUIDE FEATURES AND PARTS
Fig. 1
—2--
15.16.17.18.19.20.21.22.23.24.25.26.27.28.29.30.31.32.33.
Fig. 2 Features and Parts you should know (Back View>
—3—
z N
Needle Clamp Screw
Arm Thread Guide
Thread Tension Dial
Face Plate
Push Button Light Switch
Take-Up Lever
Darner
Upper Arm Thread Guide
Arm-Top Cover
Pattern Indicating Board
Pattern Selector Dial
Presser Bar Lifter
Tliread Cutter
Feed Dog
Hinge Holes
Hinge Set Screws
Needle Position Lever
Bobbin Winder Cover
Bobbin Winder Tension Disc
— —--=—
Fig. 2
NEEDLE-THREAD-FABRIC-STITCHING GUIDE
Fabric
MachineSilk
Needle Stitches Cotton Mercerized or
No Per Inch Thread Thread Nylon
Extremely heavy6 10
tarpaulin, sacking, 4 to to Heavy Duty
canvas, duck, etc. 8 30
Heavy upholstery8 30
fabric, ticking, 3 to to Heavy Duty
denim, leatherette10 40
Medium heavy drapery 10 40
fabric, velveteen, 2 to to Heavy Duty
Suiting, felt, terry, etc. 12 60
Medium brodcloth, 12 60
percale, gingham, linen, 1 to to 50 A
chintz, taffeta, sheer
wool, shantung, etc. 14 80
Sheer volie, lawn,14 80
dimity, crepe, 0 to to 50 A
handkerchief linen, 16 100
Plastic film, etc. (Plastic film)
8 to 10
Very sheer chiffon, 16 100
batiste, lace, organdy, 00 to to 50 A
ninon, net, marquisette, etc. 20 150
—4—
SETTING THE NEEDLE
See Fig. 3. Raise the need’e bar “A” to its highest
point, turning wheel toward you by hand (Fig. 4).
Then loosen the needle clamp screw “8” and the
needle can be inserted into clamp “C”. Place needle (flat
side to back) in the needle clamp and push it upward as far
as it will go into the needle clamp hole, tightening the
needle clamp screw securely.
After Changing the needle make one complete
revolution of hand wheel by hand to be sure the needle is
in the correct position.
If you encounter any problems with your machine after changing the needle such as puckering, skipped stitches, or
needle and thread breakage, check the following:
(1) Is the needle up as far as it will go into the clamp?
(2) Is the flat side to the back ?
(3) Is the needle the right size for the thread used?
(4) Have you tightened the clamp securely?
(5) Is the needle bent or the point blunt?
—5—
I
FLATSIDE OFNEEDLE
HfFig.5
WINDING THE BOBBIN
Disengage the hand wheel (Fig. 6) from the stitching mechanism
by turning the stop motion knob toward you or counterclockwise.
Place a spool of thread on one of the spool pins, lead thread through
the upper thread guides on the arm, and down through the tension disc
11 (Fig. 7) at the base of the machine. Run end of thread through a
hole in the bobbin edge and place bobbin on spindle “B” of winder
“4”, fitting the notch in bobbin over small pin on spindle. Push bobbin
winder pulley against hand wheel.
Hold thread end loosely and start machine slowly.
Bobbin will be released automatically when it is filled. Break off loose
thread end used to start the winding.
Turn stop motion knob away from you until sewing mechanism is
again engaged so that needle moves when you turn the hand wheel.
If the bobbin winds unevenly, adjust bobbin winding tension disc
11. (Fig. 7) to the right or left by loosening the screw. When disc is
in proper position, tighten screw.
—6—
TO REMOVE OR REPLACE BOBBIN CASE
Raise needle to its highest position. The bobbin case cannot
be removed unless the needle is above the needle plate.
Open slide plate II (Fig. 1) by sliding it toward you. Grasp the
bobbin case hinge latch ‘A” (Fig. 9) between thumb and forefinger.
To remove, pull toward you.
To replace with full bobbin, leave at least three inches of thread
extending from the top of the case to the right.
Insert the bobbin case in the shuttle being sure to center it on
Stud D and that Finger B fits into Notch C (Fig. 9). Press bobbin case
into shuttle as far as possible until latch catches on notch in Stud D.
Then release bobbin case latch A and press bobbin case again
after releasing latch to be sure it is locked securely in place.
Slide cover plate II (Fig. 1) into position.
Fig. 8
FINGER©NOTCH
I’—
® LATCH
—7—Fiq.9
TO THREAD THE BOBBIN CASE
Hold bobbin case between thumb and forefinger of
left hand so that the slot in the edge of the bobbin
case is on top (Fig. 11).
Take the bobbin between thumb and forefinger of
the right hand so that the thread on the bobbin leads
from left to right and extends about four inches from
the bobbin (Fig. 11).
llllB llllllllFig. 10
For best sewing results use only evenly
wound bobbin “A” (Fig. 10). Do not use
bobbins as illustrated by “B” or “C”.
TENSION SCREW Insert bobbin into the bobbin case. Pull
thread into slot in edge of case (Fig. 13).
and draw it under the tension screw
(Fig. 12).
—8— Fig. 13
UPPER THREADING
(1) Turn hand wheel toward you to raise the take-up lever “E”
(Fig. 14) and needle to their highest positions.
(2) Place spool of thread on spool pin.
(3) Lead thread through rear and front arm thread guides “A”
(4) Down and between tension discs “B” from right to left and up
and over hook “D”.
(5) Lead thread up and through take-up eye from right to left.
(6) Down and between thread guide “F”.
(7) Into needle bar thread guide “C” and through the needle from
front-to back.
Hold the end of the upper thread loosely, and turn hand wheel toward
you until the needle goes all the way down and comes back up. Loop
(Fig. 15) will be formed over the upper thread which can be pulled out
straight. Place both thread ends under the presser foot and draw
toward the bacK of the machine, leaving both threads about three or
four inches to.
Fig. 14
—9—
SETTING THE STITCH LENGTH
The length of the stitch is regulated by dial ‘IA” Fig. 16. Near 0 is the
shortest stitch and 4 is the longest, but the dial may be set at any spot
between the markings for a variety of lengths. Turn the dial to the
right to lengthen and to the left to shorten the stitch. The pointer
indicates this number selected.
See chart below for stitches per inch.
Figures on indicator 0 1 2 3 4
Number of stitches per inch No Feeding 30 24 12 6
SEWING IN REVERSE
When you wish to sew backward to tie the threads at the beginning or end of a seam, press the
(Fig. 16> in as far as it will go. The machine will sew backward as long as the button is held in.
reverse button “B”
STITCH LENGTH CHART (APPROXIMATE)
—10—
-—-
PREPARING TO SEW
Have take-up lever at highest point before starting to sew. Do not try to help the feeding by pulling th material
as this may deflect the needle and cause it to break.
NEVER run machine without material under presser foot.
Place material and threads in position under the presser foot and lower the presser fot. You are now ready to
begin sewing. By having the needle at its highest point, it is not necessary to touch tte hand wheel to start the
machine. You merely press the control. The speed of the machine is regulated by increasing or decreasing the amount
of pressure exerted on the control.
REMOVING THE WORK
Be sure to stop the machine whenthe thread take-up lever and needle bar
are at the highest position.
Now raise the presser foot and
draw the fabric back and to the left
(Fig. 17, A and B) and pass the threads
over the thread cutter.Pull down slightly, holding thread
in both hands, so as not to bend the
needle.Leave the ends of thread under the
presser foot.
—11 —
ADJUSTING THE TENSIONS
Always adjust the upper tension with the presser foot down, as the
tension is released when it is raised. To increase the tension on the
upper thread, turn dial ‘IA” (Fig. 18) to the right (clockwise) or to the
left (counterclockwise) to decrease the tension.
Before adjusting lower tension, be sure the machine is threaded
correctly.
When it is necessary to change the bobbin tension, turn the small screw
(Fig. 22> on the side of the bobbin case clockwise to tighten, counter
clockwise to loosen.
Fig. 19 Fig. 20 Fig. 21
When the upper and lower tensions are properly balanced, a
perfect stitch will be formed with both threads interlocking in fabric
(Fig. 19).
When the upper tension is too tight, the lower thread is pulled up
over the upper thread which is lying flat on the fabric (Fig. 20).
When the upper tension is too loose, the upper thread forms
loops over the lower thread lying flat on the fabric (Fig. 21).
—12—Fig. 22
STRAIGHT STITCHING
For straight stitching on fine fabric or very soft material, it is
advisable to use the straight stitch presser foot and the
straight stitch needle plate. Both are included in your
accessory box and have narrow needle slots.
(1) Change the toot and plate screw 13
(Fig. 1) and remove zigzag foot.
Replace with hinged straight stitch foot and tighten screw
securely (Fig. 23).
To change needle plate remove the two screws holding it in
place and remove.
Replace with straight stitch plate (Fig. 24).
(2) Set needle position lever “31” (Fig. 25) at “M”.
(3) Set zigzag width lever “6” at “0” and lock in position
with locks “7”.
(4) Set stitch length control at “1” on desired stitch length.
(5) Set decorative stitch design control at “M”.
LF1g.24
Fig. 23
a
—13—
Fig. 25
ADJUSTING PRESSURE AND FEEDING OF FABRIC
GENERAL SEWING. Usually for straight sewing and various embroidery work, the pressure bar cap ordarning release
(Fig. 27) is at its lowest position and the feed at its highest level-with the drop feed button marked UP pressed all the all the
way down (Fig. 27)
SEWING THIN OR LIGHT WEIGHT FABRICS
When lighter pressure is required to sew satisfactorily on thin
silk or flimsy material, the pressure bar cap should be about
halfway down.
Release all the way by pressing the snap lock ring “A”
(Fig. 28) and then press cap “B” down to the half-way spot.
Turn drop feed knob “C” (Fig. 26) to the low position.
DARNING AND MENDING
In order to move the fabric freely in any direction for darning,
mending or monograming, release the presser bar cap “B”
(Fig. 28) completely by pressing down on the snap lock “A”.
Turn drop feed knob to down position which drops the feed
well below the needle plate.
Fig. 26
ZIGZAG STITCHING IBe sure zigzag needle plate and presser foot are in place.
(1) Set needle position lever at “M” position (Fig. 29)
(2> By moving the zigzag width lever “6” (Fig. 29) gradually to the
right, it will produce zigzag stitches of ever increasing width. To
(Fig. 29> jmaintain selected widths of zigzag stitches, employ locks “7”
controls the maximum. Locks can be set by pressing in slightly(3) Left lock determines the minimum width stitch, while right lock
and moved to the desired position.Fig. 29
NEEDLE POSITION CONTROL
The needle should be at its highest point when adjusting needle position, to avoid tearing the fabric or bending the
needle.
Select needle position by pressing down slightly on control “31” (Fig. 1) and move to desired position.
L— Position for M— Position R— Position
buttonholes straight stitching blind hemming
sewing on buttons decorative stitch designs decorative stitch
twin needle sewing designs
decorative stitch designs
— 15—
-
CREATIVE EMBROIDERY
The satin stitch(Fig. 31),which is really just a very short zigzag
stitch, and is the basis for most embroidery, is obtained by setting the
stitch length as near “0” as possible without stopping the feeding
action.The width may be set anywhere from “0” to “5” for single
needle work.EMBROIDERY PATTERNS Fig. 31
With the machine set for a short stitch length, different designs
can be made by swinging the stitch width lever “6” (Fig. 30) between‘0” and “5” or any combination of widths. Try setting the locks at “1” and “5”, “2” and “5”,etc. Set a rhythm for
yourself and then proceed. After a while you will become quite skillful, varying your designs by the speed of the
machine, stitch length and width and the manipulation of lever “6”. Always run the machine at a uniform speed
hether fast or slow.—16—
Fig. 30
SAMPLE EMBROIDERY PATTERNS
The following patterns will be altered by the machine speed. At slow speed the patterns will be shorter than at
moderate or fast speed.
® jiiM ®WM
__J\j_ 4Vv’ A - Sew a few stitches at “4” width, then quickly move
lever back to “0” for a short period.
WV’[”NVT WWV Count, if necessary, to establish a rhythm.
B - Set width locks at “21,4 and 5” then move lever slowly
between setting, operating machine rather fast.
H . ‘I It
C - Set width loc.cs at 1 and 5 gradually move lever
from 1 to 5, then snap it back quickly to “1”.
‘ D - Set width lock at “1” and “4-1/2”, operate machine
at moderate speed. Stitch at “1” while you count
“1,2,3”. Then stitch at “2-1/2” and “4-1/2” for the
Fig. same count. Return to “2-1/2” and “1”, repeat.
E - Drop feed, lock stitch width at “5”, take “3” or “4” stitches, leave needle in fabric left side of stitches, Pivot
fabric on needle to make next daisy petal. Continue until flower design is complete. Lock threads by setting
stitch width at “0” and taking “3” or “4” stitches in center of design.
— 17 —
TWIN NEEDLE- UPPER THREADING AND SEWING
1. Be sure zigzag needle plate and presser foot are in place.
2. Use only left needle position. Use needles White Part 80999.
3. Follow threading instructions for single needle with these exceptions:
A - Place thread, matching or contrasting in color, on bothspool pins.
B - Pass threads under handle and through arm thread guide“16” (Fig. 1) one thread per hole.
C - Down around tension discs with one thread passingbetween the back discs and the other between the frontdiscs.
D - Now treat both threads as one, until you reach the needleeye.
E - Pass one thread through each needle eye.
4. Set right hand zigzag width stop at start of red area (left hand side).Zigzag lever in red area will break needle.
5. Straight stitching and decorative stitch designs can be produced inthe same manner as followed for single threading.
Fig.35 —18—
.. ....-..-......,-. .-.,, ..-..
Flat sideof
the shank/
ItFig. 34
Your machine sews a wide variety of beautiful and practical
embroidery designs with either a single or twin needle.
(1) Select decorative stitch design you desire by turning pattern selector dial “25” (Fig. 36) to either the right or left.
The design selected is indicated by pattern indicator “A”.
(2) Set zigzag width lever “6” (Fig. 1) at “5” for designs with the greatest width for single needle sewing. At the “0”
setting, the machine will sew a straight stitch regardless of the pattern selected. For twin needle sewing set
lever “6” no higher than “2-1/2” or you will break the needles.
(3) For the best pattern designs, set stitch length dial “4” (Fig. 1) as close to “0” as possible without stopping the
feeding action.
A A A A/ \ /, \ / \ / \
/ v. v V \
Fig. 37
Design number “3”, the multiple zigzag stitch, can be used to sew stretch fabrics, sewing elastic waist bands to skirts,
replacing worn blanket bindings and hundreds of other uses.
BUILT IN DECORATIVE STITCH DESIGNS
To sew the decorative stitch designs set machine as foi lows:
STITC
Fig. 36
—19—
Blind stitch pattern number “1”
Make blind hem as follows
(1) Use standard zigzag foot (Fig. 38)
(2) Set stitch length control “4” (Fig. 1) at about “2.1/2”.
(3) Set pattern indicator for blind hem stitch design number “1”.
(4) Zigzag width lever to suit material being sewn — the lower the number, the
smaller the sidewise stitch.
Blind stitch hems provide a durable hem finish that is almost invisible
and comparable to hand sewing.
Prepare the garment in the same as for hand hemming.
STEP COMPLETED
(Fig. 39) If hem with folded edge is used make first fold 3/8” deep.
Turn hem to the depth desired and baste 1/4” from upper edge. Press in place.
Fold hem back toward right side of garment leaving 1/4” extended.
Place material under presser foot, sew with stitch length set to suit material being sewn and make a side wise
stitch about every 3/4” of an inch of sewing.
STEP
Fig. 38
STEP2
STEP
Fig. 39
Step 1.
Step 2.
Step 3.
Step 4.
— 20 —
BUTTON HO LES
Various widths and lengths can be made automatically by turning
the dial. “25” (Fig. 1).
To establish the correct length buttonhole required add 1/8 inch
to the cutting space for bar tacks.
To obtain the length of the cutting space, the opening through
which the button passes, is measured by adding the width (A) and
thickness (B) of the button. (Fig. 41)
The width of the buttonhole sides is governed by the material
used.Set zigzag width lever control on
number “5” for thick material and a
lower number for thin material.
Mark the beginning and end
of the buttonhole on fabric with a
basting line or tailor’s chalk. Make
one on scrap fabric following di
rections below to be sure machine
adjustments are correct.
1. Replace presser foot with special purpose buttonhole foot. This provides
maximum visibility and allows closely spaced stitches to feed evenly (Fig. 40).
3. Set zigzag stitch width control to suit material being sewn or width of buttonhole desired. (Number “5” for
the widest buttonhole)
4. Stitch length control as close to 0 as possible without stopping the feeding action.
IFig. 40
-Th
Fig. 41
Fig. 42
2. Set needle position control at “L” position.
5. Set pattern selector dial at “A”.—21 —
6. Lower needle carefully into the mark on the fabric indicating
the start of the buttonhole. Lower presser foot and sew the
bar tack —“4” or “5” stitches.
7. With the needle out of the pattern selector dial at the “B”
position and sew the entire length of the left hand side of the
buttonhole—forward stiching.
8. With the needle Out of the cloth set pattern selector dial at the
“C” position and sew the bar tack — 4 or 5 stitches.
9. With the needle out of the cloth set pattern selector dial at the
“D” position and sew the right hand side of the buttonhole.
Reverse stitching.
10. Return zigzag width control to the “0” position and take “3” or
4 stitches to prevent ravelling.
11. Cut the buttonhole opening with seam ripper being careful not
to cut the stitching.
Although buttonholes can be made with most any threads
size 50 mercerized are recommended for best results. Fig. 44
If you plan to make buttonholes on sheer or soft material place
tarlaton on paper under fabric which can be torn away after stitching.
You can make buttonholes by sewing the right hand side (reverse stitching) first if you prefer by just reversing the
procedure noted above.
S ST T
Ep p
ST
p
STEp
— 22—
SEWING ON BUTTONS
1. Remove hinged presser foot and attach button sewing foot(Fig. 45).
2. Turn drop feed knob to Down position. (Fig. 49).
3. Set needle position lever at “L”.4. Set zigzag stitch width lever at 0. Place the button so its left-
hand hole comes directly under the needle then gently lower the
presser foot (Fig. 46).5. Move zigzag stitch width lever to the right until the needle comes
down exactly over the right-hand hole in the button (Fig. 47).
6. Move left-hand zigzag stitch width lever stop to hold lever in
place. Turn the hand wheel slowly by hand to be sure the needle
enters both holes in button without deflecting needle.
Correct width if necessary.7. When needle goes into the center of each hole run the machine
at medium speed, making six or eight stitches, stopping with the
needle in the left hole.8. To lock the zigzag stitch and prevent ravelling, set the stitch
width at 0, and take a few stitches in the same hole. If you wish
you may place a rounded toothpick over the button, between
the two holes, and sew button to fabric in regular way. Remove
the toothpick and wind thread under the button, forming a shank
fasten.Apply the above method to sew on buttons with four holes,
hooks and snaps, etc. If a four hole button is to be sewn, follow the
same procedure above for the two hole button. Now lift presser foot
slightly and move fabric to permit stitching the remaining two holes.
Fig. 45
Fig 46 Fig. 47
Fig.48
HIGH( . .I LOW
— 23 —
Fig. 49
SEAM GAUGE OR CLOTH GUIDE
Use the seam gauge as a guide for straight seams and even rows of
top stitching along edge of fabric (Fig. 52)
Fasten Gauge (Fig. 50) with accompanying screw (Fig. 51) in
threaded hole in bed of machine. Adjust to desired width.
Fig. 50
NARROW HEMMER
Fig. 51
Narrow Hemmer: With needle at its highest position replace
regular presser foot with narrow hemmer (Fig. 53) being sure to tighten
it securely in place. Set pattern selector dial at manual position,
zigzag stitch width lever at 0 for straight stitched hem or at number”3”
for zigzag stitched hem. Set stitch length control to suit and needle
position lever at M”.
— 24 —
Fig. 53
Fig. 52
For a plain narrow hem make a 1/8 inch double fold for about
two inches along edge of fabric. Hold each end of the two inch fold,
slip underneath hemmer. Bring fold up into the scroll of hemmer, draw
fabric forward to end and fasten with point of needle. Lower presser
bar lifter. Gently pull end of thread as you start stitching. (Fig. 54 for
straight stitched hem-Fig. 55 for zigzag stitched hem.)
Guide material slightly to left and it will take a double turn
through scroll.
The narrow hem provides an excellent finish for edges of ruffles
or any other dainty work.
Fig. 54
F. 55
— 25 —
LACE TRIMMED HEM
To sew a narrow hem and attach lace in one stitching, insert lace
in the slot next to needle (Fig. 56) sew hem as above guiding lace
under needle and hem into scroll. Rick-rack may be used in the same
way.
LACE EDGE WITH INVISIBLE STITCHING
Hold lace 1/8 inch from raw edge on right hand side of fabric
insert both in scroll as for plain narrow hem (Fig. 57) let hem roll over
and sew in lace. When the stitching is completed the hem is pressed to
the wrong side.
FRENCH SEAM
Place material with right sides facing each other and the top piece
of material 1/8 inch from right hand edge of lower piece. Insert in
hemmer scroll allowing hem to roll over and sew in top fabric making
French seam. For cording effect, use zigzag stitch wide enough to
catch both edges of the narrow
rolled hem and sew with satin
stitch. This can be used for cover
ing chairs and so forth (Fig. 58).
. - —
*0
Fig. 57
HEMMING ACROSSA SEAM
To hem across a seam, cut the seam folds at an angle so they will lead into
the hemmer gradually. Press seam open. Stitch across the seam at the extreme
edge to hold it together and for added firmness. It may be necessary to pull the
material slightly when hemming over the seam (Fig. 59).
— 26 —
THE ADJUSTABLE CORDINGAND ZIPPER FOOT
This attachment is used to make and
insert covered cording, and to sew in zippers.
Loosen thumb screw to slide foot to either
right or left of needle.
CORDING. Fold bias strip of fabric
over cord. Loosen thumb screw and set
foot so needle is centered in needle hole.
Machine bastes cord in place (Fig. 61).
To sew covered cord to material, reset adjustable foot so needle
stitches closer to cord, and on edge of base fabric.
L SEWING IN A ZIPPER
Loosen thumb screw and slide foot so needle enters center of
needle hole. Guide metal of zipper along edge of foot (Fig. 62).
Stitching should be close to zipper to allow easy opening and closing.
Adjust to sew from either right or left side, whichever is more
convenient.
-27-
Fig. 61
Fig. 62
CARE AND MAINTENANCE OF YOUR MACHINE
CLEANING AND OILING THE SHUTTLE
The stitch forming mechanism occasionaUybecomes clogged with loose threads and lint. This will interfere with
the efficient operation of the machine. Cleaning should be done with a small brush, never with a sharp or pointed tool.
To remove the stitch forming mechanism, proceed as follows:
1. Turn hand wheel until the needle reaches its highest position. The mechanism will assume the position illustrated
in (Fig. 63). Tilt head back on its hinges.
2. Remove bobbin case”E”.
3. Turn the two shuttle race cover clamps “C” outward and remove the shuttle race cover “B” and shuttle “A”.
4. Clean the shuttle race, shuttle and shuttle race cover by removing all threads, lint, etc.
5. Apply a drop of oil with finger tip to outer edge of shuttle.
SHUTTLE RACE COVER
ASUrrLE BODY ‘SHUTTLE
BOBBIN \\ \ RACECASE covr
PIN
A SHUTTLEBoo Y
SHUTTLEDRIVER
Fig. 63 Fig. 64
— 28 —
Occasionally remove the top cover by
removing screws and oil moving parts not
accessible through oil holes. (Fig. 66)
To oil moving parts inside the face plate,
which only rarely requires oiling, OPEN
plate. Oil at spots indicated in (Fig. 65).
iiaHOW TO OIL YOUR MACHINE
Avoid over-oiling, only a drop is needed
at each point.
4
Fig. 65
Fig.66
Use gear lubricant on gears indicated by white arrows in (Fig. 67)Lubricate only when machine seems to sew more slowly than usual.
HOW TO REPLACE THE LIGHT BULB
Open Face (Fig. 65) unscrew bulb and insert new one. For long
life and correct size, be sure it is a genuine White part. NUMBER 6999 Fig. 67
-29-
HOW TO CHANGE THE BELT
If it should ever become necessary toproceed as follows:
(1) Remove screws “A” (Fig. 68)(2) Remove rear cover. -
(3) Remove stop motion knob “B” in center of hand wheel (Fig.68) by takingout small screw “C”. Turn nut counter-clockwise by holding the take-uplever until it can be lifted off.
(4) Before moving hand wheel, note position of lips on washer “D” (Fig. 69)
as it will fall off when changing the belt.(5) Slide old belt over motor pulley
“E” (Fig. 69).(6) Pull hand wheel away from ma
chine just far enough to allow thebelt to slip over wheel.
(7) Put new belt in grooved section of
hand wheel and then over motorpulley.
(8) Replace washer 0 in original
position.(9) Replace stop motion and screw “C”.
After doing this, turn clutch towardyou to disengage sewing mechanism. If the needle still moves upand down as you turn the handwheel, again remove the stop
motion, give washer “0” a half turn
and replace the nut.(10) Replace rear cover.
— 30 —
replace the belt on your machine,
Fig. 68
ACCESSORI ES
1. Plastic Oiler (sealed and filled)
2. Large Screw Driver
3. Small Screw Driver
4. Buttonhole Cutter
5. Package of Needles (5 Straight)
6. Package of Twin Needles
7. Cloth Guide
8. Thumb Screw
9. Quilter Guide
10. Presser Foot for Straight Sewing
11. Button Sewing Foot
12. Felt Washes (2) (for spool pins)
13. Bobbins(3)
Buttonhole Foot
Narrow Hemmer
Needle Plate for Straight Sewing
14.
15.
16.
L4j1±L©
Fiq.71
—31 —
TROUBLE CHART
Trouble Probable Cause - Correction
If Machine Thread or lint in 1—With take-up lever in highest position, tilt head back on hingesBinds race way and remove bobbin case.
. BOBBINCASE BOBBIN NOTCH RACE
ccc
LATCH RACE COVER HOOK CLAMPS
2—Turn clamps outward and remove race cover.
3—Remove hook.
4—Clean thread and lint from all parts, including race.
5—Run a drop of oil along rim of shuttle.
6—Replace shuttle, then race cover. Snap clamps into place.
7—Grasp threaded bobbin case by latch and replace, fitting tongue into
notch of race cover.
—32—
4!
‘rTrouble Probable Cause Correction
Bent needle Discard and replace.
Skipping Needle placed incorrectly inSee instruction page No. 6.stitches clamp
Too fine a needle for threadSee needle and thread chart, page No. 5.being used
Upper thread tension too loose I Tighten upper tension.Irregularstitches Improper threading See threading instruction, page No. 8 and 9.
Bobbin not wound evenly Rewind bobbin.
Pulling or holding material Avoid pulling or holding material, just guide it.
Not enough tension on upperIncrease tension.Uneven thread
stitchesPoor quality thread Try different thread.
Needle too fine for thread beingSee needle and thread chart, page No. 5.used
— 33 —
Trouble Probable Cause Correction
Refer to threading instructions see page No. 8 andImproperly threaded rethread machine.
-Loosen tension on upper thread by turning thread
Too much tension tension knob to lower number.
Upper thread Starting with take up in in- Always start sewing with take up lever in highest
breaking correct position position.
Improper setting of needle Refer to needle setting instructions see page No. 6.
Bent or eye of needle too sharp Try a new needle.
Discard all blunt or bent needles and replace withBent or blunt needle new.
Tensions too tight See tensions adjustment page No. 10.
Material Dull needle Change needle.puckering
j Stitch length too tong Reduce stitch length.
— 34 —
Your sewing machine comes equipped with the basic set of accessories described earlier
in this book.
The following pages illustrate additional time saving attachments that have been designed
specificaIIyfor your machine. They are available at modest cost from your dealer. If
your dealer cannot supply you with these items, ask him to order them for you by part
number. Then you will be assured of receiving the genuine part designed for best per
formance with your machine.
— If a sewing machine dealer is not available mail your inquiry directly to
WHITE SEWING MACHINE COMPANY
11750 BEREA ROAD
CLEVELAND, OHIO 44111
In Canada
WHITE CONSOLIDATED INDUSTRIES, LTD.
1470 BIRCHMOUNT ROAD
SCARBOROUGH, ONTARIO, CANADA
-35-
SOME OF THE ATTACHMENTS AVAiLABLE FOR YOUR MACHINE
Fig. 72
IPART 4990
Darning Spring
PART 74159 PART 76654
Attachment Foot Binder Edgestitcher
Hemmers
7/8 PART 76552 5/8 PART 76552 3/8 PART 76551 1/4 PART 76550
Need’e position lever must be in the left position when using these attachment.
Ruffler
PART 1403
—36—
ATTACHMENT FOOT
In order to attach the binder, edgestitcher and the hemmers, it isnecessary to remove the presser foot and replace it with the attachmentfoot. (Fig. 73).
Mount binder, edgestitcher or hemmers, sliding the attachment tothe left as far as possible and tighten screw.
The mounting slot enables you to sew as close to or as far away fromthe edge as desired. Just move the attachment to the correct positionbefore tightening the mounting screw.
The edgestitcher is used in making daintylace insertions, edgings and piping.
The slots in the edgestitcher serve as guidesin sewing together various pieces of material.If you want to sew lace, lace and embroidery,or lace and tucked strips together, place thepieces of material that will be on top in slot 1(Fig. 75) and the lower fabric in slot “4’.’ Forinstance, if you are sewing lace edging to afinished edge of fabric place the fabric in slot 1and the lace in slot “4” (Fig. 74).
—37—a
EDGESTITCHER
Fig. 75
Be sure to draw the lace and material under the needle and back of the edgestitcher so that the feed will carry it backward
as you stitch. Hold the fabric in the left hand the lace in the right, being sure the fabric overlaps the lace slightly.
Rick-rack can be sewn to the edge of the material in the same manner.
To trim with wide piping, place the fabric in solt’4’and the fold of the piping to the left in slot”3’ for a narrow piping
place fabric in slot 2 and the folded edge of the piping to the right in slot”3’
Slot 5 may be used as a guide in stitching a French seam.
See Fig. 76, 77, 78 and 79 for suggestions on how to use the edgestitcher. There are hundreds of other uses.
Fig. 77 Fig. 78 Fig. 79
— 38 —
FOLDED BINDING (Fig. 82)
Cut a point on folded binding, insert in appropriate slot. Draw through
slot and under binder with strong pin. Test stitching to be sure it is on
the edge. Adjust by sliding binder to right or left.
TWO-TONE BINDING (Fig. 82)Two bindings can be sewn on fabric edge also in one operation. When
two are used, always skip one size between widths, inserting each in
correct size slot.
HAND-CUT BIAS BINDING (Fig. 83)
Cut 15/16 inch bias binding fold in half for a couple of inches. Cut
binding diagonally toward end, almost to fold. Slip fold into center of
binder. Draw back until cut opens and binding encircles open end ofscroll. Test stitching to be sure it is on the edge adjust if necessary.
See Fig. 80and 81 for suggestions on howto use the binder.There are hundreds of other uses.
BINDER
This attachment folds bias binding, applies it to the edge of material in one operation. Slots on scroll of the binder are for
corresponding widths of commercially folded bias binding.
The open mouth of binder scroll is used for unfolded bias strips cut 15/16 inch wide.
I ,/
Fig. 80 Fig. 81 Fig. 83— 39 —
THE SET OF HEMMERS
Before attaching any of the hemmers be sure bobbin thread
is pulled up. Then, with hemmer in place, hold top thread loosely
and turn handwheel one full turn toward you, making a loop
under hemmer. Grasp bobbin thread with both hands and slip
horizontally under hemmer toward back. Bobbin thread will
catch loop and carry upper thread to back of hemmer.
Fold material to suit for two inches along edge, hold at each end
of fold. Slip fold into guide and up over spoon (Fig. 84). Fold hem
in material back of hemmer. Draw forward to end of hem and fasten with point of needle. Pull on thereads gently as you
start stitching.
HEMMER SET
You can make a hem 1/4”, 3/8”, 5/8”, or 7/8” in width, depending upon which hemmer you use.
Fig. 84
—40 —
RUFFLER
‘3,,
Fig. 85 Fig. 86 — Fig. 87
The ruffler will produce yards of delicate ruffling or precision pleating.
Ruffling can also be done and sewn to another piece of fabric at the same time.
This highly versatile attachment despite its wide range of use, is simple to use.
Use the ruffler for making aprons, curtains, pleating a skirt, adding fullness to the bodice of a dress and etc.
Fig: 85 Fig. 86-A Fig. 87-A
—41—