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Questions & Answers

®

Contents What is BENTONE GEL® MIO V?

What is Mineral Oil?

What are the major application benefits?

Where can BENTONE GEL® MIO V be used?

How do I incorporate this product into my

formulations?

What are the typical use levels?

How do the rheological properties of BENTONE

GEL® MIO V differ from that of pure Mineral Oil?

Can you demonstrate the applications with some

formulation examples?

Is testing data available to help show the performance

benefits provided by BENTONE GEL® MIO V?

1

A: BENTONE GEL® MIO V is a dispersion of fully activated BENTONE® 38 V, a non-

animal origin hectorite organoclay, in Mineral

Oil.

It has been designed to impart rheological

control and suspension in organic and

silicone based cosmetics. BENTONE GEL®

MIO V is particularly useful in emulsions and

can be used in cold process systems.

BENTONE GEL® MIO V provides the

combined benefits of Mineral Oil and

hectorite organoclay. The emollient

properties of the Mineral Oil combined with

the smooth after feel achieved with hectorite

organoclay results in a pleasant residual

silkiness on the skin, masking greasy or

tacky components. The hectorite organoclay also provides thermostable viscosity control

and provides thermostable viscosity control. It can also be used as an alternative to

traditional polymer or cellulose-based thickeners for stabilising emulsions.

The INCI name of BENTONE GEL® MIO V is Paraffinium Liquidum, Disteardimonium

Hectorite and Propylene Carbonate.

Q: What is BENTONE GEL® MIO V?

Figure 1. BENTONE GEL® MIO V

Typical Properties

Property Specification

Appearance Light Buff

Viscosity (MM cps)1.4 - 2.4 (EU)

2.2 - 3.2 (US)

Ash Content (%)5.8 - 6.4 (EU)

5.5 - 6.5 (US)

Total Plate Count 0 - 100

2

Table 1. Typical Properties of BENTONE GEL® MIO V

Mineral oil is also known as liquid petrolatumand is a by-product in the distillation of petroleum to produce gasoline. It is composed mainly of alkanes (typically 15-40carbons) and cyclic paraffins, related to whitepetrolatum. Mineral oil is occlusive, so helpsto form a moisturising barrier on the skin, which helps prevent water from evaporating. Itcan act as a hair and skin conditioning emollient and cleanser. It can also be used on theeyelashes to prevent brittleness and breaking.

Mineral oil has an Emollient Skin Spreading Factor (ESSF) of 6.1, as seen in figure 4,which means that it has good skin spreading properties. Mineral oil has one of the highestinterfacial surface tensions, as seen in figure 5. This means that it has a low polarity andis insoluble in water.

Q: What is Mineral Oil?

Figure 3. Typical components of mineral oil

3

Figure 4. Emollient skin spreading factor

Figure 5. Interfacial surface tension

A: The application benefits include:

Improved formulation stability, including elevated

temperature stability

Thickening and suspending

Thixotropic rheological flow

Enhanced dispersion of actives

Rich texture and improved formulation aesthetics

Silky skin feel

Masks greasy or tacky components

Ease of spreading and even coverage

Provides emollience

Suitable for cold process formulations

Q: What are the major application benefits?

4

Q: Where can BENTONE GEL® MIO V be used?

A: BENTONE GEL® MIO V is suitable for various personal care applications. Some

formulation examples are listed in this application guide. This product is very easy to

incorporate into the oil phase of emulsions, or all oil systems. Applications may

include:

Haircare products

Creams and lotions

Emulsions

Skincare products

Suncare products

Eye Make-up

Lip products

Facial Make-up

5

Batch Processing

Single Phase SystemsAlways add the BENTONE GEL®, under shear, to a portion of the organic component or

solvent with which it is most compatible. Mix until homogeneous before adding the other

ingredients.

Multi-Phase Systems (e.g. emulsions) Treat as with the single phase but always ensure the BENTONE GEL® additive is

thoroughly mixed in before continuing to the emulsification stage.

Continuous Processing The BENTONE GEL® should be added to the oil phase at any convenient point, which

meets the above guidelines for batch processing. In multi-

manifold systems, a flowable pre-mix of the BENTONE

GEL® with a compatible oil or solvent should be made in a

side vessel.

Where only lower shear mixing equipment is available, stir

the BENTONE GEL® and slowly add the most compatible

component gradually, always ensuring the mixture remains

homogeneous at each stage.

Q: How do I incorporate the product into myformulations?

A: BENTONE GEL® MIO V may be added to the oil phase

of a formulation at any convenient stage during the

manufacturing cycle. This is a very high viscosity, shear-

thinning product. To ensure good homogeneous mixing is

achieved, care should be taken to overcome the large

viscosity differential existing between the BENTONE GEL®

and the other lower viscosity components. The use of

medium to high shear mixing equipment is recommended.

Thorough mixing of the BENTONE GEL® in the oil phase

should be ensured before continuing to the next process-

ing step, such as emulsification.

6

Q: What are the typical use levels?

A: Product use levels depend on the amount of thickening, stabilisation and cushioning

emollience desired in the final formulation. Suspension will be provided by concentrations

of 2.5-10.0%. In emulsions, thickening will occur only in the oil phase. Emulsion

viscosities will be influenced by concentrations of 3-5%. Higher levels of BENTONE

GEL® will have a greater effect on the viscosity. Thermostable viscosity in single phase

systems may be achieved by adding 10-25% to the formulation.

7

Q: How do the rheological properties of BENTONE GEL® MIO V differ from that of pure Mineral Oil?

A: The flow curves and oscillation curve (frequency sweep) of BENTONE GEL® MIO V

and Mineral Oil are compared below. BENTONE GEL® MIO V is a high viscosity gel, with

thixotropic flow behaviour, while Mineral Oil is a low viscosity liquid with almost a constant

viscosity when the shear rate is varied. In addition, BENTONE GEL® MIO V is a gel with a

strong structure and excellent stability.

Figure 6. Addition of BENTONE® 38 V produces ahigh viscosity gel, with thixotropic flow behaviour

Figure 7. BENTONE® 38 V provides excellentstability in Mineral Oil

Procedure

1. Disperse Phase A and heat to 75-80°C. 2. In a separate container combine Phase B and heat to 75-80°C. 3. Add Phase B to Phase A with adequate agitation. 4. Premix Phase C and heat to 70-75°C. 5. Add Phase C to the mixture with high shear mixing until uniform. 6. Add Phase D to the mixture at 70°C. 7. Hot pour into the jar at 70°C.

Physical PropertiesAppearance Glossy light yellow paste

pH 4.0 - 5.0

Viscosity N/A

Q: Can you demonstrate the applications with some formulation examples? A: A representative formulation with BENTONE GEL® MIO V is listed here to

demonstrate the potential applications.

Formula 1: Glossifying Hair Pomade

Ingredient Supplier % w/w

PHASE A

BENTONE GEL® MIO V (Mineral Oil and Disteardimonium Hectorite and Propylene

Carbonate) ELEMENTIS Specialties 3.0

Drakeol 7 (Mineral Oil Penreco 22.0

PHASE B

Polychol 15 (Laneth-15) Croda 24.0

Crill 45 (Sorbitan Trioleate) Croda 3.5

Crill 4 (Sorbitan Oleate) Croda 1.0

PHASE C

Deionised Water 34.0

Propylene Glycol Dow Corning 12.0

PHASE D

Germaben II (Propylene Glycol and Diazolidinyl Urea and Methylparaben and

Propylparaben)ISP 0.5

Total 100.0

8

Formula 2: Ethnic Hair Moisturising Cream


PHASE A

BENTONE® EW (3% Dispersion in Water) (Hectorite) ELEMENTIS Specialties 33.5


Ritapan D (D-Panthenol) Rita Corporation 1.0

PHASE B



Drakeol 7 (Mineral Oil) Penreco 25.0

Arlacel 165 (Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate Uniqema 6.0

Lanette O Wax (Cetearyl Alcohol) Cognis 3.0

PHASE C

Vitamin E (Tocopherol) BASF 0.5

Germaben II E (Propylene Glycol and Diazolidinyl Urea and Methylparaben and

PropylparabenISP 0.5

Aloe Vera 1:1 (Aloe Barbadenis Leaf Extract) Carribean Aloe Vera 0.2

Total 100.0

9

Procedure

1. Predisperse Phase A and heat to 70-75°C. 2. Disperse Phase B and heat to 75-80°C. 3. Add Phase B into Phase A using a homogeniser for 15-20 minutes. 4. Cool to 45°C and add Phase C in the order listed. Mix well until uniform.

Physical PropertiesAppearance Off white thick cream

pH 6.5

Viscosity - Brookfield DV-II+Pro, Spindle 7, 20 rpm (cps) 45000 - 50000


PHASE A



Carnation (Mineral Oil) Crompton 10.0

Snow White Petrolatum (Petrolatum) UPI 10.0

PHASE B

Polarwax NF (Emulsifying Wax) Croda 8.0

Volpo S10 (Steareth-10) Croda 2.5

Crodafos N10N (DEA-Oleth-10 Phosphate) Croda 2.0

Lanette O Wax (Cetearyl Alcohol) Cognis 1.5

PHASE C


Propylene Glycol Dow Chemical 2.0

PHASE D

NaOH 25% Solution 6.8

Germaben II E (Propylene Glycol and Diazolidinyl Urea and Methylparaben and

Propylparaben

ISP 0.5

Total 100.0

Formula 3: Hair Relaxer Cream

Procedure

1. Disperse Phase A and heat to 75-80°C. 2. In a separate container combine Phase B and heat to 75-80°C. 3. Add Phase B to Phase A with adequate agitation. 4. Premix Phase C and heat to 70-75°C. 5. Add Phase C to mixture with homogenising. 6. Add Phase D, in the order given, to the mixture when temperature reaches 45°C and mix well with low shear.

Physical PropertiesAppearance White cream

pH 13

Viscosity 30000 - 35000

10

11


PHASE A

THIXCIN® R (Trihydroxystearin) ELEMENTIS Specialties 2.0

Drakeol 7 (Mineral Oil) Penreco 47.5

PHASE B


Carbonate)ELEMENTIS Specialties 30.0

BENTONE GEL® VS-5PC V (Cyclopentasiloxane and Disteardimonium Hectorite and

Propylene Carbonate)ELEMENTIS Specialties 10.0

Cropure Avocado (Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil) Croda 5.0

Dow Corning 345 Fluid (Cyclomethicone) Dow Corning 5.0

Vitamin E Acetate (Tocopheryl Acetate) BASF 0.3

PHASE C

Unisept P (Propylparaben) Universal Preserv-A-Chem 0.2

Total 100.0

Formula 4: Hair Pomade

Procedure

1. Disperse Phase A with high shear at 55-60°C for 15-20 minutes. 2. In a separate container combine Phase B and mix until uniform. 3. Add Phase B to Phase A and mix. 4. Cool down to 60°C and add Phase C and mix.

Physical PropertiesAppearance Glossy tan gel

pH N/A

Viscosity - Brookfield DV-II +Pro, Spindle 7, 20 rpm (cps) 25000 - 32000

12


PHASE A


Carbonate)ELEMENTIS Specialties 1.0

Incroquat Behenyl TMS (Cetearyl Alcohol and Behentrimonium Methosulphate) Croda 4.0

PHASE B


Glycerine 4.0

Luviskol VA64 Powder (VP/VA Copolymer) BASF 2.0

Propylene Glycol 0.4

PHASE C

Dow Corning 345 Fluid (Cyclomethicone) Dow Corning 10.0

PHASE D

Paratexin FPX (Phenoxyethanol and Methylparaben and Ethylparaben and Propylparaben

and Butylparaben and Isobutylparaben)

S. Black Group 0.2

Triethanolamine Honeywell & Stein to pH 5.5

Total 100.0

Formula 5: Hair Defining Complex

Procedure

1. Warm Phase A to 70-80°C. 2. In a separate vessel heat Phase B to 75-80°C. 3. Add Phase A to Phase B with silverson homogenising for 20 minutes. 4. With a propeller stirrer add Phase C and cool to 35°C. 5. Add Phase D using a propeller stirrer.

Physical Properties

Appearance Glossy white cream

pH 5.5

Viscosity - Brookfield DV-II +Pro, Spindle 7, 20 rpm (cps) 12000 - 20000

13


PHASE A



Paraffinum Liquidum 15.0

Lexol PG-865 (Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Caprate) Inolex 15.0

C33-115 Brown (C.I. 77491 and C.I. 77492 and C.I. 77499) Sun Chemical 15.0

Magnesium Carbonate 6.0

Kaolin 2.0

PHASE B

Paraffinum Liquidum 17.6

Cerezo E626 (Ozerkerite) Barlocher France 6.0

Priolene 6928 (Oleic Acid) Uniqema 4.0

Ceruba T1 (Cera Carnauba) Barlocher France 3.5

BHA Merck 0.2

Propylparaben S. Black Group 0.2

PHASE C

Timiron Supersheen MP-1001 (Mica and C.I. 77891) Merck 15.0

Total 100.0

Formula 6: Eyeshadow Stick

Procedure

1. Warm Phase A to 80°C. 2. Heat Phase B to 80°C. 3. Add Phase B to Phase A and mix. 5. Add Phase C and mix.

Physical PropertiesAppearance Brown Stick

pH N/A

Viscosity N/A

14


PHASE A


PHASE B

Natrosol 250 HR (Hydroxyethylcellulose) Hercules 1.8

PHASE C



PHASE D

SERDET® DFK 30 (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate) ELEMENTIS Specialties 35.0

Tego Betain 50 (Cocamidopropyl Betaine) Evonik Degussa 6.0

Crillet 6 (PEG-20 Sorbitan Isostearate) Croda 3.0

PHASE E

Paratexin FPX (Phenoxyethanol and Methylparaben and Ethylparaben and Propylparaben

and Butylparaben and Isobutylparaben)

S. Black Group 2.0

Total 100.0

Formula 7: Liquid Soap

Procedure1. Warm Phase A to 50°C. 2. Using a propeller stirrer, or silverson homogeniser, and Phase B and mix until homogeneous. Continue to stir while cooling until thesolution is clear. 3. Add Phase C to the main mix with propeller stirring, or a silverson homogeniser.4. Add Phase D with stirring. 5. Add Phase E using a propeller stirrer, at under 35°C.

Physical PropertiesAppearance Clear to cloudy gel

pH 5.5

Viscosity - Brookfield DV-II, Spindle 7, 12 rpm (cps) 30000 - 35000

A: Experimental data has been obtained by testing the formulation, with and

without BENTONE GEL® MIO V. Apparent performance benefits are demonstrated here.

BENTONE GEL® MIO V in Glossifying Hair Pomade (Formula 1)

3% BENTONE GEL® MIO V in this leave-on product improved the overall appearance of

the formulation, while increasing thermostability. The incorporation of the organoclay gave

a soft and less greasy feel to the hair, along with good definition and style management.

Figure 8 shows a temperature rotation curve. The sample without organoclay loses

viscosity from about 40°C, whereas the sample with BENTONE GEL® MIO V kept an

almost constant viscosity until about 55°C. The temperature oscillation curve in figure 9

shows that the sample without organoclay underwent a phase change at 40°C, which

would indicate instability, whereas the sample with BENTONE GEL® MIO V was stable up

until 60°C. The stability prediction was confirmed in the storage stability testing, as the

sample without organoclay showed separation at 45°C after 3 months storage stability.

Figure 8. Temperature rotation curve for formulations withand without BENTONE GEL® MIO V

Q: Is testing data available to help show the performance benefits provided by BENTONE GEL® MIO V?

15

Figure 9. Temperature oscillation comparison for formulations with and without BENTONE GEL® MIO V

BENTONE GEL® MIO V in Ethnic Hair Moisturising Cream (Formula 2)

The BENTONE GEL® MIO V gave a base viscosity to the formulation combined with easy

application, thermostability and improved long term storage stability, and good definition

and style management.

BENTONE GEL® MIO V in Hair Relaxer (Formula 3)

The BENTONE GEL® MIO V gave improved rheological properties, with increased body

and easy spreading, due to the thixotropic nature. The BENTONE GEL® MIO V also helps

to improve thermostabiity and long term storage stability.

BENTONE GEL® MIO V in Hair Pomade (Formula 4)

The BENTONE GEL® MIO V gave a good base viscosity to the formulation. It gave a

combination of easy application, with good definition and style management.

BENTONE GEL® MIO V in Hair Defining Complex (Formula 5)

The incorporation of BENTONE GEL®

MIO V into this formulation helped

improve the stability and enrich the

formulation. Half head salon

assessments were carried out on the

formulation with and without organoclay.

The results, shown in figure 10, showed

increased adsorption onto the hair, while

also enhancing the overall appearance,

eliminating stickiness and smoothing the

hair cuticle to provide a soft feel,

combined with good curl definition and

style management.

16

Figure 10. Half head salon evaluation

BENTONE GEL® MIO V in Eyeshadow Stick (Formula 6)

The incorporation of BENTONE GEL® MIO V improved overall skin feel and application

properties.

BENTONE GEL® MIO V in Liquid Soap (Formula 7)

The presence of BENTONE GEL® MIO V in this formulation gave a silky feel to the skin

during and after application as well producing a creamier foam. In figure 11 we can see the

time dependent recovery curve for the liquid soap. In the first part of the curve the sample

is being exposed to 0.1 s-1. In the second phase the shear rate is 1000 s-1 and in the third

phase the shear rate is returned to 0.1 s-1. In the third phase we can see that the original

viscosity is not reached immediately. The viscosity is only fully recovered after 100

seconds, meaning that the product is thixotropic, which gives the liquid soap good

application properties.

17

Figure 11. Time dependent recovery curve for liquid soap

Before using any of our products please consult our Safety Data Sheets.

The information in this publication is, to the best of our knowledge, true and accurate, but since the

conditions of use are beyond our control, no warranty is given or to be implied in respect of such

information. In every case, caution must be exercised to avoid violation or infringement of statutory

obligations and any rights belonging to a third party. We are, at all time, willing to study customers’

specific outlets involving our products in order to enable their most effective use.

© Copyright 2008, Elementis Specialties, Inc. All rights reserved.

Copying and/or downloading of this document or information therein for republication is not allowed

unless prior written agreement is obtained from Elementis Specialties, Inc.

® Registered trademark of Elementis Specialties, Inc.

For more details please contact:

AMERICAS Elementis Specialties

P.O. Box 700

Hightstown

New Jersey 08520

USA

Tel: +1.609.443 2500

Fax: +1.609.443 2446

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Tel: +32.2.790.7600

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