Cetiol CC The Benchmark for Dry Emollient12 BASF Personal Care Ingredients INCI w/w % Emulgade® PL...

Cetiol® CC

The Benchmark for Dry Emollient

Internal

BASF Personal Care2

INCI: Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Spreading value: 1600 mm2 / 10 min

Sensory feeling: dry, velvet skin feel

Skin compatibility: excellent

Stability: hydrolysis stable

Origin: vegetable (fatty alcohol)

Biodegrability: yes

Personnel data

BASF Personal Care3

What can it do for you?

Deodorants / APs

Sun CareSkin Care

Face Care

BASF Personal Care4

Advantages

Skin

Ca

re

Fast spreading emollient

Smoothes the skin

Dry, velvet skin feel

Superior skin compatibility

Good emulsifiability

BASF Personal Care5

Smoothness

Time

Cetiol® PGL

Cetiol® J 600

Cetiol® CC

Fast spreading emollient

Skin

Ca

re

BASF Personal Care6

Smoothness

Time

Cyclomethicone

Cetiol® CC

Spreading cascade of fast spreading

emollients

Skin

Ca

re

BASF Personal Care7

Emollient INCI Spreading Value

[mm2/10 min]

Cyclomethicone > 1600 high

Cetiol® CC Dicaprylyl Carbonate 1600

Cetiol® OE Dicaprylyl Ether 1600

Myritol® 331 Cocoglycerides 750 medium

Cetiol® PGL Hexyldecanol/Hexyldecyl Laurate 750

Eutanol® G 16 Hexyldecanol 700

Myritol® 318 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 550

Cetiol® J 600 Oleyl Erucate 350 slow

Almond Oil Prunus Dulcis 200

Spreading Values

Skin

Ca

re

BASF Personal Care8

0

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

Irritation Score (Erytheme)C

eti

ol®

CC

IPM N-Hexadecan

Skin compatibility was tested as well on Japanese skin.

Method: Human Patchtest, 20 % AS in cosmetic alcohol

Skin

Ca

re

Superior skin compatibility

BASF Personal Care9

Ingredients INCI w/w%

Eumulgin® VL 75 Lauryl Glucoside, Polyglyceryl-2 4.5

Dipolyhydroxystearate, Glycerin

Emollient 16.0

Carbopol 2 % Carbomer 15.0

KOH 20 % Kaliumhydroxide 0.6

Water Aqua 63.9

Emulsifiability of different emollients

Skin

Ca

re

BASF Personal Care10

magnification 400 x

50 µm

Droplet Size: E

Droplet Size: D

Droplet Size: C

Droplet Size: B

Droplet Size: A

Good emulsifiability

Standard formulation

with Eumulgin® VL 75

Skin

Ca

re


Ingredient INCI Droplet Size

Myritol® 331 Cocoglycerides A

Cetiol® CC Dicaprylyl Carbonate B

Eutanol® G Octyldodecanol B

Cetiol® OE Dicaprylyl Ether C

Myritol® 318 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride C

Paraffinum Liquidum C

Cyclomethicone D

Emulsifiability of different emollients

with Eumulgin® VL 75

Skin

Ca

re


Ingredients INCI w/w %

Emulgade® PL 68/50 Cetearyl Glucoside, Cetearyl Alcohol 2.5

Dehymuls® PGPH Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate 2.5

Amphisol K Potassium Cetyl Phosphate 0.5

Cutina® GMS-V Glyceryl Stearate 1.0

Novata® AB Cocoglycerides 1.0

Myritol® 331 Cocoglycerides 5.0

Copherol® F 1300 Tocopherol 1.0

Siliconoil Wacker AK 350 Dimethicone 0

Carbopol 980 Carbomer 0.3

Cetiol® CC Dicaprylyl Carbonate 6.0

Glycerin 86 % Glycerin 5.0

KOH 20 % Potassium Hydroxide 0.6

Perfume, Preservative q.s.

Water Aqua 74.1

O/W Cream with Cetiol® CC

Rec. DE 99/239/6

Skin

Ca

re




Lameform® TGI Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate 1.0

Zincum N29 Zinc Stearate 1

.0

Cetiol® A Hexyl Laurate 6.0

Cetiol® SN Cetearyl Isononanoate 5.0

Eutanol® G 16 Hexyldecanol 1.0



MgSO4.7H2O Magnesium Sulfate 1.0


Water Aqua 69.0

W/O Lotion with Cetiol® CC

Rec. DE 99/244/3

Skin

Ca

re



I Eumulgin® S 21 Steareth 21 1.0


DC 200, 100 cs* Dimethicone 5.0

Cetiol® SN Cetearyl Isononanoate 3.0

Eutanol® G 16 Hexyldecanol 2.0

Mirasil C-DPDM** Cyclomethicone (and) Diphenyl Dimethicone 1.0

Phenonip*** Phenoxyethanol (and) Parabens 0.4

II Aqua qsp 100

Pemulen TR 1**** Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.3

Glycérine Glycerin 2.0

Pluriol E 1500***** PEG 1500 2.0

III Dry Flo Plus****** Aluminium Starch Octenylsuccinate 2.0

Sodium Hyaluronate (sol. 1%) 5.0

Cooling Agent 10******* Menthoxypropandiol 0.5

IV Ethanol 10.0

Parfum Eau de Pêche 0.2

*: Dow Corning; **: SACI; ***: SIPCA; ****: BF Goodrich; *****: BASF; ******: National Starch; *******: Takasago

Skin

Ca

re

Refreshing Fluid with Cetiol® CC

Rec. 2C01966.212

BASF Personal Care15Su

n C

are

Solubility for crystalline UV filter

Dispersing performance for pigments

Increase of UV absorption

SPF enhancing capacity

Balanced sensory due to spreading ability

Advantages


Sp

read

ing

fast

slow

Solubilitylittle high

Cetiol ®AB

Cetiol® OE Cetiol® CC

Myritol® 331

Cyclomethicone

Solubility for crystalline UV filter &

Spreading performance

Su

n C

are


Solubility [%]

0

5

10

15

20

25C

eti

ol®

CC

Cyclo-

methicone

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane

Myritol® 331

Assessment criterion: clear aspect after 1 week at 15°C


Cetiol® AB

Su

n C

are


Myritol® 331

0

5

10

15

20

25

30C

eti

ol®

CC

4-Methylbenzylidene CamphorSolubility [%]

Cyclo-

methiconeCetiol® AB

Su

n C

are


Assessment criterion: clear aspect after 1 week at 15°C


METHOD:

Titanium dioxide was dispersed into the emollient under

stirring without homogenisation

(80 parts Emollient + 20 parts Titanium Dioxide

(Titanium Dioxide T 805, Degussa))

The pigment dispersion was assessed by microscope

examination and viscosity behaviour

A C

Dispersing performance for pigments

Su

n C

are


Emollient Viscosity Homogeneity

(mPas)

Myritol 331 / Cocoglycerides 14 000 A

Cetiol® CC / Dicaprylyl Carbonate 9 000 B

Cetiol PGL / Hexyldecanol, Hexyldecyl Laurate 9 000 B

Paraffinum Liquidum 8 000 C

Cetiol OE / Dicaprylyl Ether 3 000 C

Cyclomethicone 3 000 C

Viscosity &

Homogeneity of Pigment Dispersions

Su

n C

are



Emollient 16.0

Neo Heliopan E 1000 Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate 6.4

Neo Heliopan BB Benzophenone-3 1.6


Carbopol® ETD 2001 Carbomer 0.3

Eumulgin® VL 75 Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, 3.5

Lauryl Glucoside, Glycerin


Water Aqua 67.5

KOH 20 % Potassium Hydroxide 0.7

Perfume, preservative q.s.

Formula for SPF determination

Rec. DE 97/062/1

Su

n C

are


Result: In a given formulation the substitution of Mineral oil by

Cetiol® CC increases the SPF in vitro by > 100 %. Myritol® 331 &

Cetiol® AB have shown similar results.

0

2

4

6

8

10

12

14

16

SPF in vitro (Labsphere)

Paraffinum Liquidum

Ceti

ol®

CC

SPF enhancing capacity

Su

n C

are



Eumulgin® VL 75 Lauryl Glucoside, Polyglyceryl-2 4.0

Dipolyhydroxystearate, Glycerin

Lanette® E Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate 1.0



Neo Heliopan AV Octyl Methoxycinnamate 7.5

Neo Heliopan 303 Octocrylene 9.0

Eusolex T 2000 Titanium Dioxide, Alumina, Simethicone 5.0

Veegum Ultra Magnesium Aluminium Silicate 1.5

Keltrol T Xanthan Gum 0.5


Hydagen® B Bisabolol 0.5

Water Aqua 46.0


O/W Sun Lotion with Cetiol® CC

SPF 20 (in vivo*) Rec. DE 99/095/10

Su

n C

are




Lameform® TGI Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate 2.0

Beeswax 3.0

Zincum N 29 Zinc Stearate 1.0



Eusolex T 2000 Titanium Dioxide, Alumina, Simethicone 15.0

Isostearic Acid 1.0



Water Aqua 44.5

MgSO4·7 H2O Magnesium Sulfate 1.0

Hydagen® B Bisabolol 0.5


*: COLIPA, on 5 volunteers

W/O Sun Blocker with Cetiol® CC SPF

30 (in vivo)* Rec. DE 99/095/14

Su

n C

are


Solubility of emollient in propellant

Solubility of perfumes in emollient

Solubility of perfume/emollient mixture in propellant

Benefit

Preconditions

Positive influence on sensorics

Reduced whitening

AP

/De

o A

ero

so

ls

“Care effect“ as claim possible

Usage of emollients in AP/Deo aerosols


Miscible with propellants (up to ratio 1:1)

Enhances solubilization of perfumes in alcohol / solvent free

products

Cetiol® CC / perfume mixture miscible with propellant

(up to ratio 1:1)

Cetiol® CC

Specific suitability for AP/Deo aerosols

AP

/De

o A

ero

so

ls


Test procedure:

• 10 volunteers

• Defined application in armpit

• Evaluation of market relevant parameters

• Comparison of formulation with Cetiol® CC

against those based on IPM and Cyclomethicone

Sensory assessment by expert panel

AP

/De

o A

ero

so

ls


Ingredients INCI

Cetiol® CC Dicaprylyl Carbonate 13.0 - -

IPM Isopropyl Myristate - 13.0 -

DC 245 Cyclomethicone - - 13.0

Miglyol Gel B Caprylic/Capric Tryglyceride (and) 4.0 4.0 4.0

Stearalkonium Hectorite (and)

Propylene Carbonate

Reach 501 Aluminium Chlorohydrate 6.0 6.0 6.0

Hydagen® C.A.T. Triethyl Citrate 2.0 2.0 2.0

Propellant Butane/Propane 75.0 75.0 75.0

Preservative q.s. q.s. q.s.

IT/01/140/

- 1 - 3 - 4

AP/Deo aerosols

Test formulations for sensory assessment

AP

/De

o A

ero

so

ls


Tackiness much low

Whitening much low

Dry less much

Skin softness less much

Waxy much less

Cooling effect low high

General impression worse better

Absorption slow quick

Oily much less

Skin smoothness less much

1.0 1.0 2.00.02.0

N = 10

Sensorial comparison

Cetiol® CC vs. IPM - application axilla

AP

/De

o A

ero

so

ls


Tackiness much low

Whitening much low

Skin softness less much

Waxy much less

Cooling effect low high

General impression worse better

Absorption slow quick

Oily much less

Skin smoothness less much

1.0 1.0 2.00.02.0

Dry less much

N = 10

Sensory comparison

Cetiol® CC vs. DC 245 - application axilla

AP

/De

o A

ero

so

ls


Deo spray with Cetiol® CC


Miglyol Gel B Caprylic/Capric Tryglyceride 4.0

(and) Stearalkonium Hectorite

(and) Propylene Carbonate

Reach 501 Aluminium Chlorohydrate 3.0

Hydagen® C.A.T. Triethyl Citrate 1.4


Hydagen® DCMF Chitosan 0.3

(4% aqueous solution

with Glycolic acid)

Perfume 1.0

Preservative q.s.

Propellant Butane/Propane 77.2

Rec. IT 00/42/11

AP

/De

o A

ero

so

ls


Very good perfume and propellant solubility

Improved sensory performance against

Cyclomethicone and Isopropyl Myristate

Summary

Silicon oil free as claim possible

Cetiol® CC

The new emollient for AP/Deo aerosols

AP

/De

o A

ero

so

ls


METHOD:

Development of benchmark formula which is similar in

terms of ingredients & percentage to standard market

formulations

Substitution of emollient in this formula to evaluate

their cleansing properties

Product quantity: 1.0 g Milk

Defined application

Evaluation in comparison to benchmark

ADVANTAGES:

Skin

Cle

an

sin

g

Improvement of cleansing abilities of make-up remover

Advantages


Skin

Cle

an

sin

g


Emulgade® SE-PF Glyceryl Stearate (and) Ceteareth-20 6.0

(and) Ceteareth-12 (and) Cetearyl

Alcohol (and) Cetyl Palmitate

Lanette® O Cetearyl Alcohol 0.5

Mineraloil Paraffinum Liquidum 7.5

IPP Isopropyl Palmitate 7.5

Water Aqua 78.5


Benchmark formula for

Skin Cleansing Test

Skin

Cle

an

sin

g


Reference Formula for

Skin Cleansing Test


Emulgade® SE-PF Glyceryl Stearate (and) Ceteareth-20 6.0

(and) Ceteareth-12 (and) Cetearyl

Alcohol (and) Cetyl Palmitate

Lanette® O Cetearyl Alcohol 0.5

Mineral Oil Paraffinum Liquidum 6.0

IPP Isopropyl Palmitate 6.0

Emollient 3.0

Water Aqua 78.5


Skin

Cle

an

sin

g


Method

Lipstick

Foundation

Mascara

Rest time:

10 minutes

Skin

Cle

an

sin

g


Cegesoft® C 24

Cetiol® LC

Myritol® PC

Benchmark

Cyclomethicone

Cetiol® A

Make-up remover efficacy

reduced improved

Cetiol® CC

Cetiol® OE

Skin

Cle

an

sin

g


This document, or any answers or information provided herein by BASF, does not constitute a legally

binding obligation of BASF. While the descriptions, designs, data and information contained herein are

presented in good faith and believed to be accurate, it is provided for your guidance only. Because many

factors may affect processing or application/use, we recommend that you make tests to determine the

suitability of a product for your particular purpose prior to use. It does not relieve our customers from the

obligation to perform a full inspection of the products upon delivery or any other obligation. The claims and

supporting data provided in this publication have not been evaluated for compliance with any jurisdiction’s

regulatory requirements and the results reported may not be generally true under other conditions or in

other matrices. Users must evaluate what claims and information are appropriate and comply with a

jurisdiction’s regulatory requirements. NO WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EITHER EXPRESS OR IMPLIED,

INCLUDING WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE, ARE

MADE REGARDING PRODUCTS DESCRIBED OR DESIGNS, DATA OR INFORMATION SET FORTH,

OR THAT THE PRODUCTS, DESIGNS, DATA, OR INFORMATION MAY BE USED WITHOUT

INFRINGING THE INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY RIGHTS OF OTHERS. IN NO CASE SHALL THE

DESCRIPTIONS, INFORMATION, DATA, OR DESIGNS PROVIDED BE CONSIDERED A PART OF OUR

TERMS AND CONDITIONS OF SALE.


BACK-UP CHARTS


O/W - Rec. 99/239/6 (with Cetiol® CC) vs. Rec. 99/239/4 (with Cyclomethicone = 0-Line);

n = 10 human volunteers, pair comparison test

Pick-up

Consistency

Peaking

Cushion

Distribution

Absorption I

Absorption II

Smoothness

Tackiness

Oiliness

Waxiness

Powdery

good

high

high

much

easy

fast

fast

high

little

little

little

much

less good

low

little

little

difficult

slow

slow

little

much

much

much

little

21012

Skin

Ca

re

Dry, volatile silicone oil like skin feel

Cetiol CC The Benchmark for Dry Emollient12 BASF Personal Care Ingredients INCI w/w % Emulgade® PL...

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Transcript of Cetiol CC The Benchmark for Dry Emollient12 BASF Personal Care Ingredients INCI w/w % Emulgade® PL...