Professor, Dr. Vijai K. S. ShuklaPresentation of Professor, Dr Vijai K S Shukla 6 Extraordinary...

Curriculum Vitae

Awards

Press Releases

List of Publications

Professor, Dr. Vijai K. S. Shukla

Professor, Dr Vijai K. S. Shukla is director of International Food Science Centre A/S, Denmark and has

been active in food science research since 1969. He has published numerous papers and has authored

several books. His research interests have ranged from physical phenomena to mechanisms of

autoxidation, isolation of lipids, spectral phenomena related to lipids, modern analytical methodology, and

involvement of essential fatty acids in health and diseases such as Multiple Sclerosis and Batten's

Syndrome.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vijai_Shukla

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vijai_Shukla

Presentation of Professor, Dr Vijai K S Shukla

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List of contents Curriculum Vitae .................................................................................................................... 3

Contact information and personal data .............................................................................. 3

Professional appointments .................................................................................................. 3

Research interests ................................................................................................................ 4

Specialization ....................................................................................................................... 4

Resolving various scientific problems ................................................................................................... 4

Accomplishments in Industrial Applications ..................................................................... 5

Special features of NUTRIDAN ............................................................................................................. 5

Cosmeceuticals .................................................................................................................... 5

Extraordinary achievements ............................................................................................... 6

Appearances and awards ....................................................................................................................... 6

AOCS activities .................................................................................................................... 6

Associate Editor, JAOCS 1992-; Associate Editor, INFORM 1989-97 ............................................ 6

Other ..................................................................................................................................... 7

World Bank ........................................................................................................................... 8

Malaysian assignment ............................................................................................................................ 8

Media Coverage.................................................................................................................... 8

Newspaper, magazine and television ................................................................................................... 8

Awards .................................................................................................................................... 9

Hindi Rattan Award (2016) ................................................................................................... 9

AOCS’s Fellows Award (2005) ............................................................................................. 9

AOCS’s Stephen S. Chang Award (2002) ......................................................................... 10

AOCS’s Herbert J. Dutton Award (1996) ........................................................................... 10

AOCS’s Young Scientist Research Award ....................................................................... 10

Research Accomplishments providing global impact in Lipid Research ................... 11

Nutritional significance of lipids in human health and disease ...................................... 11

Encapsulated oils for corrective nutrition ........................................................................ 11

Chocolates and confectionery .......................................................................................... 11

Designer oils ...................................................................................................................... 11

Collaboration with Institutes and other Professors ......................................................... 12

List of Publications ............................................................................................................. 13

1970 -1980 ........................................................................................................................... 13

1981 -1990 ........................................................................................................................... 14

1991 -2000 ........................................................................................................................... 14

2001 - 2010 .......................................................................................................................... 16

2011 - ................................................................................................................................... 17


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Curriculum Vitae

Contact information and personal data Name: Professor, Dr Vijai K S Shukla Title: President, International Food Science Centre A/S Date of birth: March 23, 1948, Allahabad, UP India Nationality: Danish E-mail: [email protected] Websites: www.ifsc.dk

www.icsc.dk www.nutridan.dk www.hippodan.dk

Telephone: +45 86 22 99 86 Address: Cedervej 7

DK-8462 Harlev J Denmark

Professional appointments President

o 1991 – Present International Food Science Centre A/S, Denmark International Cosmetic Science Centre, Denmark

Research & development Manager o 1979 – 1989 Aarhus Oliefabrik, Denmark

Research & Development Director o 1990 – 1991 Karlshamn, Sweden

Adjunct Professor o 2000 – 2008 Department of Food Science & Human Nutrition

University of Illinois – Urbana Champaign

Adjunct Professor o 2011 – Present Department of Food Science & Nutrition

College of Food, Agricultural & natural Resource Science University of Minnesota, St. Paul, Minneapolis

Expertise Food: Food design and innovative products with expertise in Lipid Nutrition, Antioxidants and Actives for better and safer health. Stability: Design stable products and optimization of factories in terms of cost economics for industries such as Chocolate, Frying, Dairy and Nutraceutical industries. Cosmeceuticals: Design lipid and active based Cosmeceuticals for the industry and provide extensive knowledge in handling and application of these products in formulations.

mailto:[email protected]

http://www.ifsc.dk/

http://www.icsc.dk/

http://www.nutridan.dk/

http://www.hippodan.dk/


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Antioxidants: Development of exclusive tailor made antioxidants for Food, Cosmeceutical and Pharmaceutical industries. Several of these synergistic mixtures have been developed as processing aid antioxidants and providing preservative properties as well. Internal Stabilization Technology: Unique technique to make all vegetable oils and fats highly resistant to oxidation and general degradation using the natural antioxidant properties of Rosemary.

Tropical Products / Procurement and research: Expertise in developing unique unconventional exotic raw materials from the jungles of Africa and Asia and introduce these to the modern world. These natural materials are incorporated in several of the product portfolios of the multinational companies. Factory Hygiene and Quality Systems: Provide know how for operating parameters for optimization and improving cost economics globally. Ecology: Involved globally in converting conventional product portfolio to Organic as and where possible.

Research interests Professor, Dr Vijai K S Shukla is author of nearly 100 original scientific publications, 12 invited review papers, 15 book chapters in the areas of biochemistry, human nutrition, cosmeceuticals, nutraceuticals, enzymology, modern analytical techniques for the separation of lipids and proteins. Editor of six books.

Specialization Resolving various scientific problems Professor, Dr Vijai K S Shukla's research interests have ranged from physical phenomena to mechanism of autoxidation, isolation of lipids, spectral phenomena related to lipids, modern analytical methodology and involvement of essential fatty acids in health and diseases such as multiple sclerosis and Batten's syndrome. Professor, Dr Vijai K S Shukla has shown essential fatty acid deficiency in multiple sclerosis and Batten's disease. These were related with glutathione peroxidase activity and antioxidants requirements in these diseases. Professor, Dr Vijai K S Shukla has also analyzed arctic diet in Greenland Eskimos and compared with Danes elucidating some of the mechanism of coronary heart diseases in these population groups. In his research work Professor, Dr Vijai K S Shukla employs modern analytical methodology in order to resolve various scientific problems


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Accomplishments in Industrial Applications Professor, Dr Vijai K S Shukla has been working in the area of confectionery product development for the three decades. He has a special expertise in cocoa butter, milk fat, cocoa butter equivalents and cocoa butter substitutes based on modern concepts of recipe engineering. Professor, Dr Vijai K S Shukla has always applied scientific principles to upgrade or modify existing production to achieve super quality products. Some of his major achievements are as follows: During 1996 Professor, Dr Vijai K S Shukla has established a brand new refinery in The Netherlands and has successfully demonstrated that total oxidation in bulk oils can be completely arrested and speciality fats delivered to the customers will be of extremely fresh quality. These deliveries were in the scale of 500-1000 MT per shipment. A proper research approach clearly shows that it is possible to provide uplift to large scale production through extreme caretaking the help of nitrogen as inert gas and stainless steel in the production system. A number of international press articles presented these developments. For last two decades Professor, Dr Vijai K S Shukla’s research focussed on the quality of encapsulated fish and vegetable oils. He has successfully demonstrated that it is possible to produce ultra refined fish oil with extreme low peroxide value and anisidine value. This oil is already in commercial production. Having produced the above mentioned oils it is of utmost importance to keep these oxidation values extremely low therefore he has designed several natural antioxidant systems for general nutrition as well as cosmetic oils. This natural antioxidant system is 50 to 60 times more powerful than existing available antioxidants. He has recently developed a novel designer oil called Nutridan containing very high amounts of essential polyunsaturated fatty acids. The oils used are of vegetable origin and extracted by physical means and are thus totally solvent free. Nutridan provides not only balanced essential fatty acids, but also a high dosage of natural antioxidants which are extremely beneficial for better health. Special features of NUTRIDAN

Extremely low ratio of omega 6 and omega 3 fatty acid, (typically 0,5 – 0,6)

Helps to lower the ratio of omega 6/omega 3 fatty acids in human nutrition

Contains natural herb extracts, which provide various physiological benefits.

Very high oxidative stability. Nutridan can be used for producing various kinds of table spreads, mayonnaise, salad dressings, baking fats etc. It can also be encapsulated for various pharmaceutical applications. Nutridan is now used successfully in several industries within in baking, frying and cooking as a supplement for correcting omega 6/omega 3 nutrition. Both President Nelson Mandela and President Bill Clinton have used this oil for safer and better health.

Cosmeceuticals Professor, Dr. Vijai K. S. Shukla has been working in the area of application of natural lipids such as exotic butters for cosmetic formulations. He has designed a specific method for internally stabilization of exotic lipids through providing enhanced shelf-life of the final product. He has authored several papers related to these topics. He is now re-dressing cosmetics through the power of naturals.


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Extraordinary achievements Appearances and awards Appearance in Who's Who in the World, 12th edition 1995-96. Appearance in 2000 Outstanding Scientists of the World. Appearance in 2000 Outstanding Intellectuals of the 20th Century, appearance in The Barons 500 Leaders for the new Century. The Cambridge Blue Book 2005. American Oil Chemists' Society 1996 prestigious Herbert Dutton Award for pioneering contribution in Lipid research presented in Indianapolis. The title of the award lecture was “Chocolate - The Chemistry of Pleasure”. American Oil Chemists’ Society 2002 prestigious Stephen S. Chang Award presented in Montréal, Canada. The title of the award lecture was ”Chocolate – Friend or Foe?” This award is given to a scientist who has achieved decisive accomplishments in basic research. The knowledge that the person has produced must have been utilized by industries for the improvement or development of food products related to lipids. AOCS Fellow 2005 in recognition of his achievements in science and appreciation for significant service to the AOCS.

AOCS activities Associate Editor, JAOCS 1992-; Associate Editor, INFORM 1989-97 Chairman, "Analysis of Lipids" session, at AOCS Annual Meeting, Hawaii, 1986; Chairman, "General Analytical Topics" session, at AOCS Annual Meeting, New Orleans, 1987; Chairman, "HPLC of Lipids and Proteins", at AOCS Annual Meeting, Phoenix, Arizona, 1988; Chairman, International Short Course on "Application of Pulsed NMR Techniques in Food Analysis", Arizona, 1988; Chairman, "HPLC of Triglycerides and Lipids - A Worldwide Perspective", at AOCS Annual Meeting, Cincinnati, 1989; Chairman, "Analysis - General" session, at AOCS Annual Meeting, Baltimore, 1990; Chairman, International AOCS Short Course entitled "New Horizons in the Analysis of Lipids and Lipoproteins" held in Rebild Bakker, July 1990; Chairman, AOCS Short Course "HPLC of Lipids" held in Chicago, 1991; Chairman, "Speciality Fats" for AOCS Annual Meeting, Chicago, 1991; Chairman, "Antioxidants in the Future" for AOCS Annual Meeting, Toronto, 1992; Chairman, "Newer Developments within the Area of Speciality Fats" for AOCS Annual Meeting, Anaheim, 1993; Chairman Timothy L. Mounts Memorial Symposium in St. Louis, Missouri, 2006. AOCS INFORM advisory board from year 1998-2002. Vice Chairman AOCS Chromatography Committee (1987-91); NMR Committee; Divisionalization Committee; Chairman, HPLC of Triglycerides Ringtest Committee. Chairman NMR Committee (1991-2005). Invited speaker for the World Conference on "Edible Oils and Fats Processing" Maastricht October 1-6, 1989 title "Confectionery Fats". Invited speaker for AOCS Short Course, "Analyses of Fats, Oils and Lipoproteins", Chicago, Nov. 1989 titles "Application of HPLC to Lipid Separation and Analysis: Neutral Lipids", "Application of HPLC to Lipid Separation and Analysis: Lipid Derivatives", Application of NMR Spectrometry: Pulsed NMR". Invited award lecture in INFORM on ”Chocolate – the Chemistry of Pleasure”, February 1997. Invited speaker for symposium on Ten-Year Forecast: ”Trends in Global oilseed Utilization and Processing, Chicago, May 1998. Invited speaker and chairman World Conference and Exhibition on Oilseed Processing and Utilization, Cancun, Mexico, 2000. Presented the lecture ”Confectionery Fats”. Presented following papers during various AOCS meetings; "Recent Applications of the High Performance Liquid Chromatography to Oils and Fats Analysis" at AOCS Annual Meeting, Philadelphia, 1985; "High-Speed Liquid Chromatography as applied to Oils and Fats Analysis" at AOCS Annual Meeting, Hawaii, 1986; "Studies on the Crystallization Behaviour of the Confectionery Fats by Pulse Nuclear Magnetic Resonance Employing Various Tempering Modes" at AOCS Annual Meeting, New Orleans, 1987; "HPLC of Unconventional Oils" at AOCS Annual Meeting, Phoenix, 1988; "HPLC Determination of Amino Acids in Leguminous Proteins", Phoenix, 1988; "Application of High Performance Size Exclusion Chromatography (HPSEC) for the Evaluation of Health Food Oils", Cincinnati, 1989. Presented two papers "TLC of Lipids" and "HPLC (normal phase, reverse phase, detection methodology) at the conference "New Trends in Lipid and Lipoprotein Analysis", La Grande Motte, France, 1993, chaired one session. Chairman General Health & Nutrition at AOCS Annual Meeting, Atlanta, 1994. Chairman General Analytical I&II at AOCS Annual Meeting, St. Antonio, USA, 1995. Chairman General Analytical II at AOCS Annual Meeting, Indianapolis, USA, 1996. Chairman General Analytical II at AOCS Annual Meeting, Seattle, USA, 1997. Chairman


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General Analytical II at AOCS Annual Meeting, Chicago, USA, 1998. Chairman General Analytical I at AOCS Annual Meeting, Orlando, USA, 1999. Chairman General Analytical II at AOCS Annual Meeting, San Diego, USA, 2000. Chairman General Analytical II at AOCS Annual Meeting, Minneapolis, USA, 2001. Chairman Edward G. Perkins Memorial Symposium: New Horizons in Lipid Production and Processing I &II. Salt Lake City, 2005. Correcting Omega-3/Omega-3 Nutrition through Internal Stabilization Technologies. Salt Lake City 2005. Developed Young Scientist Research Award within AOCS in 2000. This award is sponsored by International Food Science Centre A/S from 2000 till date.

Other Member of Programme Advisory Committee, Palm Oil Research Institute of Malaysia; Member of Pennsylvania Manufacturers' Confectioners' Association; Royal Society of Chemistry; The Chromatography Society, England, Chairman "NMR Group", International Office of Cocoa Chocolate and Confectionery; Executive governing board member, Scandinavian Society for Lipid Research; Nominated to AOCS Governing Board member (1991) a rare honour given to a European; Awarded several scientific honours including AOCS award for outstanding paper presentation; Several president's honour roll; Co-organizer, 15th Scandinavian Symposium on Lipids, June 1989, Rebild Bakker Denmark. Invited lectures at several conferences and meetings in USA, Europe, Japan, India, Malaysia; Editor, 15th Scandinavian Symposium on Lipids. Editor, Applications of pulsed NMR Techniques for Food Analyses; Editor, Antioxidants in Food - Past, Present and Future; Editor, Oils and Fats in the Nineties; Editor, Antioxidants, Free Radicals and Polyunsaturated Fatty Acids in Biology and Medicine; Editor, Modern Developments in Food Lipids. Keynote speaker at Leatherhead Food RA conference on fats in England 1995. Keynote speaker at OTAI's International Seminar in Bombay, India December 1995. Speaker at MOSTA's Short Course 1: CTEU, Pahang, Malaysia April 1996. Chairman Society of Chemical Industry Meeting on Confectionery Fats, London October 1996. Plenary lecture OTAI, Lucknow, India, April 1998. Plenary lecture OTAI National Convention, Calcutta, November 1998. Session Chairman during the 23rd World Congress and Exhibition of the International Society for Fat Research (ISF) in Brighton, England, October 1999. Session Chairman during SCI/Euro Fed Lipid Conference in Cambridge, England, April 2002. Society of Cosmetic Chemists’s (SCC) Meeting in LA, Dinner Hour Speaker, April 2005. SCC Scientific Seminar in LA, October 2006 Keynote speaker at HSCG (Handcrafted Soap & Cosmetic Guild) Annual Conference in Tucson, AZ, USA. Title “Nature´s Gift to Soap & Cosmetics”, May 2014 Keynote speaker at SCC (Twin Cities Chapter) - Eight Biennial Holistic Cosmetic Symposium & Supplier Showcase, MN, USA Title: “New Horizons in the Application of Natural in Cosmetics”, March 2017 Editorial Board Member: Lipid Technology, UK and Journal of Food Lipids, USA. Ph.D Examiner of theses from Japan, Germany, Denmark and India.


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Professor, Dr Vijai K S Shukla had a detailed technical discussion with His Excellency the President of India

Dr A.P.J Abdul Kalam atHis 'Rashtrapathi Bhawan office' on 23rd of June 2006

World Bank Malaysian assignment Expert assignment on behalf of World Bank within Food Technology Area. Developed strategies for Malaysian Prime Minister’s Vision 2020 programme within Food Science research in Malaysia.

Media Coverage Newspaper, magazine and television Professor, Dr Vijai K S Shukla appears frequently in international newspapers, magazines and recently Times of India sent their senior feature writer to write several articles about his work and Danish Television (DK4) made a programme about his recent research discoveries. European Tribute Professor Fritz Spener, Past-President of DGF©, wrote recently about Dr. Shukla on his 60th birthday; “Professor Dr. Vijay K. S. Shukla celebrated his 60th birthday on 23 March 2008. I am delighted to have this opportunity to show my appreciation of a colleague and friend who is spreading the gospel of lipids, fats and oils around the globe with great success. Vijai was born in 1948 in the holy city of Allahabad, U. P.,India. Having grown up in this city he entered the University of Allahabad to study Chemistry where he specialised in Organic Chemistry. He did his Masters in 1969 and following that, he earned his PhD from the same University in 1973. In fact, he was introduced to the lipid field already in the course of his thesis work. Coming from one of the top Universities in India, he was selected UNESCO fellow to do postdoctoral work first at Charles University in Prague, then in 1975 at the Institute of Neurochemistry in Experimental Life Sciences in Copenhagen, and for one year at the Federal Centre for Lipid Research in Münster, Germany. There he became deeply familiar with lipids, fats and oils that had so much impact on his future professional life. It was also in Münster where we had met first and cooperated. In 1978 he went back to Denmark to join Interferon Laboratories in Hjørring as R&D manager. On the basis of this managerial experience Vijay was subsequently appointed in 1979 as R&D manager by Aarhus Oliefabrik, one of the world’s leading manufacturers of vegetable oils and speciality fats. During the 10 years at this company he built up a strong reputation world-wide for lipid research, particular aspects being analysis, processing and biotechnology. In 1990 he joined Karlshamn Denmark as R&D Director and in 1991 he was ready to start his own company. Vijay founded the “International Food Science Centre” (IFSC), which up-to-date is involved in innovation and acts as extended research centre of the big commercial global players in the areas of lipids, fats and oils. IFSC has become a very successful enterprise with a number of spin-offs set up in several continents. Vijay’s research interests range from physical phenomena to mechanisms of autoxidation, isolation of lipids, spectral phenomena related to lipids (e.g. pulsed NMR), modern analytical methodology, and involvement of essential fatty acids in health and disease such as multiple sclerosis and Batten’s syndrome. Impressively, he has authored a total of over 120 original papers, reviews and book chapters. Moreover, he was and is a much sought-after plenary lecturer at congresses and organizer of short courses; he edited a number of books coming out of these teaching exercises. He has been Associate Editor for INFORM from 1989-97 and still is for J. Am. Oil Chem. Soc., Lipid Technology, and others. In 1996 he received AOCS’ Herbert Dutton Award for his pioneering contributions to the analysis of lipids. Apart from this strong engagement in basic science, his focus has been and is on translation of knowledge gained into industrial applications and commercial success. He has been working hard in the area of confectionary product development and gained special expertise in cocoa butter, milk fat, cocoa butter equivalents and substitutes based on modern concepts of recipe engineering. His


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accomplishments in this area were acknowledged in 2002 by AOCS by bestowing upon him the prestigious Stephen S. Chang Award; Vijay thanked with an Award lecture, entitled “Chocolate – Friend or Foe”. In another major accomplishment he established in 1996 a refinery in The Netherlands and demonstrated that total oxidation can be arrested during processing and resulting speciality fats of extremely fresh quality can be delivered to customers in the scale of 500-1000 tonnes per shipment. Another achievement is the encapsulation of high amounts of essential PUFA of fish or plant origin combined with natural antioxidant systems to be used as nutritional supplement and as additive in cosmetic formulations. It was pleasing for me to learn that his dedication to basic science and industrial R&D led to Dr. Shukla’s appointment as Adjunct Professor to the Department of Food Science and Human Nutrition of the University of Illinois, Urbana Champaign, USA. As a long-standing member of AOCS he contributed to this Society by serving at top levels in many committees and by sponsoring for 9 years by now the “Young Scientist Award”. Summing up his scientific, technical and commercial achievements, and his engagement for the Society, he was elected “AOCS Fellow” in 2005 - well deserved Vijay. And let me add that Vijay convinced me at an AOCS congress in Cincinnati many, many years ago that I must become a member of AOCS. Being also European of Indian background (he became Danish citizen), he had joined also DGF many years ago and through this membership became later member of Euro Fed Lipid as well.We met off and on by visiting and by helping out as organizers and lecturers at various occasions. His relation to and interest for his native India is still strong, for example 8 years ago he founded a subsidiary of IFSC in New Delhi and in 2006 he had a chat even with the President of India discussing technical details about handling of fats and oils. Personally, I remember vividly the fine symposium with top speakers he organized in 2001 near New Delhi to celebrate the 10 Years Jubilee of the very successful IFSC, combined with a lavish treatment of us throughout the conference. So it is my wish and the wish of all those who know Vijay that he continues to thrive in the lipid field we love so much. And, of course, we wish him excellent health in the years to come, as well as the enjoyment of just sitting down and relaxing - at least for a few moments!”

Awards Albert Nelson Marquis Lifetime Achievement Award (2018) In 2018 he was selected to receive the Albert Nelson Marquis Award. This is one of the highest honors and it is offered for an impressive career longevity, professional accomplishments, and contributions to society.

Hindi Rattan Award (2016) Recently, he has been honored by the Government of India with the Hind Rattan Award, one of the highest Indian diasporic awards granted annually to non-resident person of Indian origin by the NRI Welfare Society of India.

AOCS’s Fellows Award (2005) The status of Fellow is awarded to members of the AOCS whose achievements in science entitle them to exceptionally important recognition or to those who have rendered unusually important service to the Society or to the profession. This award recognizes achievements and contributions to the profession, industry and society and encourages future progress in the science.


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AOCS’s Stephen S. Chang Award (2002) This award recognizes a scientist, technologist, or engineer whose distinguished accomplishments in basic research have been used by industries for the improvement or development of products related to lipids.

AOCS’s Herbert J. Dutton Award (1996) The Analytical Division of the AOCS initiated this award to recognize an individual who has made significant contributions to the analyses of fats and oils and related products or whose work has resulted in major advances in the understanding of processes utilized in the fats and oils industry.

AOCS’s Young Scientist Research Award The AOCS Young Scientist Research Award was established to annually recognize a young scientist that has made a significant and substantial research contribution in one of the areas represented by the Divisions of AOCS. The award consists of a plaque, an honorarium, and funding for travel and registration to attend the AOCS Annual Meeting & Expo where the awardee will present a scientific paper relating to the research and development that has merited them the award. Following scientists have been awarded since 2000: 2018 Chibuike Udenigwe 2017 Laura Nyström 2008 Liangli (Lucy) Yu 2016 No suitable candidate was found 2007 G. Barcelo-Coblijn 2015 Michael A. Rogers 2006 David Compton 2014 Helen L. Ngo 2005 Ki-Teak Lee 2013 Michael A.R. Meier 2004 John N. Coupland 2012 Richard P. Bazinet 2003 Yeonhwa Park 2011 Raffaele Mezzenga 2002 Anu Hopia 2010 Edgar J. Acosta 2001 F. Xavier Malcata 2009 Ken D. Stark 2000 A. Marangoni


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Research Accomplishments providing global impact in Lipid Research

Nutritional significance of lipids in human health and disease Multiple sclerosis and Battens disease: Professor, Dr Vijai K S Shukla has shown essential fatty acid deficiency in multiple sclerosis and Battens disease. These were related with glutathione peroxidase activity and antioxidants requirements in these diseases. Professor, Dr Vijai K S Shukla has also analysed arctic diet in Greenland Eskimos and compared with Danes elucidating some of the mechanism of coronary heart diseases in these population groups. Professor, Dr Vijai K S Shukla successfully demonstrated the presence of selenium in aquatic species which protected polyunsaturated fatty acids due to its antioxidant action. Professor, Dr Vijai K S Shukla's study of erythrocyte glutathione peroxidase activity in comparing Danes and Indian immigrants showed a significant increase in Indian group. This difference was explained based upon selenium and non-selenium enzymes.

Encapsulated oils for corrective nutrition Professor, Dr Vijai K S Shukla developed methodologies to produce highly enriched products for corrective nutrition. He has for last twenty years studied the quality of encapsulated products around the world and showed presence of polymers in fish oil products. These products were highly oxidised and anisidine values were extremely high in fish oil capsules. He has successfully demonstrated that it is possible to produce ultra refined fish oil with extremely low peroxide and anisidine values. This product is under commercial production. Having produced the above mentioned oils it is of utmost importance to keep these oxidation values extremely low therefore he has designed several natural antioxidant systems for general nutrition as well as cosmetic oils. This natural antioxidant system is 50 to 60 times more powerful than existing available antioxidants

Chocolates and confectionery Professor, Dr Vijai K S Shukla has been working in the area of confectionery product development for the last 23 years. He has a special expertise in cocoa butter, milk fat, cocoa butter equivalents and cocoa butter substitutes based on modern concepts of recipe engineering. Professor, Dr Vijai K S Shukla developed NMR technology to study the solid fat contents and triglycerides through HPLC to demonstrate the application of these technologies to speciality fats developments. He is a chairman of AOCS NMR group. Professor, Dr Vijai K S Shukla has always applied scientific principles to upgrade or modify existing production to achieve super quality products. Some of his major achievements are as follows: During 1996 Professor, Dr Vijai K S Shukla has established a brand new refinery in Holland and has successfully demonstrated that total oxidation in bulk oils can be completely arrested and speciality fats delivered to the customers will be of extremely fresh quality. These deliveries were in the scale of 500-1000 MT per shipment. A proper research approach clearly shows that it is possible to provide uplift to large scale production through extreme care taking with the help of nitrogen as inert gas and stainless steel in the production system. A number of international press articles presented these developments.

Designer oils Professor, Dr Vijai K S Shukla’s recent research focuses on development of highly stable 3 oils for corrective nutrition based upon the technology of internally stabilisation, a process developed by him. This process arrests total oxidation and thus creates highly stable oils for human nutrition. Novel Introduction of omega-3 in modulating skin metabolism. In human metabolism arachidonic and eicosapentaenoic acids act as a substrate for production of leukotrienes B4 and B5.


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Leukotrienes B4 are pro-inflammatory together with prostaglandines E2 whereas leukotrienes B5 are anti-inflammatory. Modern Western diet has forced omega-6/omega-3 ratio to such a high level whereby we provide excessive substrate of arachidonic acid in promoting the development of leukotrines B4 and thus excessive inflammation. We have successfully produced highly stable omega-3 through our internally stabilisation process whereby it is possible to use these products topically and accelerate the production of leukotrines B5 in reversing inflammation.

Collaboration with Institutes and other Professors Professor Shukla actively collaborates with the following groups: Prof. Henrik Balslev Institutes of Biological Sciences, University of Aarhus Department of Systematic Botany, 68 Nordlandsvej, DK-8240 Risskov, Denmark

Evaluation of Unconventional Oils (from South East Asia and South America Studies of exotic butters for cosmetics)

Prof. Fereidoon Shahidi Department of Biochemistry, Memorial University of Newfoundland, St. John's , Newfoundland, Canada

Natural antioxidants Prof. Knud Kragballe Department of Dermatology Marselisborg Hospital, P.P.Oerumsgade 11, DK-8000 Aarhus C, Denmark

Effect of essential fatty acids in Human skin and diseases Prof. William E. Artz University of Illinois, Urbana-Champaign, Dept of Food Science & Human Nutrition, Urbana, IL61801, USA

Evaluation of Unconventional oils through Modern Analytical Technology


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List of Publications

1970 -1980 1. "Engineering Chemistry". For Technical University Students. 1972.

2. Sharma, J. P.; Awasthy, A. K.; Shukla, V. K. S.: Micro determination of olefinic unsaturation using bromine monochloride in acetic acid medium. Mikrochimica Acta, 522, 1972.

3. Shukla, V. K. S.; Pande, U. C.; Sharma, J. P.: Micro determination of olefinic unsaturation. Reaction of N-Bromosuccinimide with olefins in polar medium. Z. Anal. Chem. 260, 359, 1972.

4. Shukla, V. K. S.; Shukla, S.; Sharma, J. P.: Volumetric micro determination of sulphonamides. Z. Anal. Chem. 265, 352, 1973.

5. "Decade Chemistry", Indian Science Congress Association, 1973.

6. Shukla, V. K. S.; Sharma, J. P.: Spectrophotometric determination of furfural in g quantities using its molybdic acid complex. Z. Anal. Chem. 276, 300, 1975.

7. Shukla, V. K. S.; Shukla, S.: Micro determination of histamine and serotonin drugs using bromine monochloride in water-acetic acid medium. Microchemical Journal, 21, 242, 1976.

8. Sharma, J. P.; Shukla, V. K. S.; Dubey, A. K.: Micro determination of pyrrole derivatives with N-Bromosuccinimide in acetic acid medium. Analyst, 101, 867, 1976.

9. Shukla, V. K. S.; Dubey, A. K.; Sharma, J. P.: Volumetric micro determination of hydrazines and hydrazides. Analytical Letters, 9, 975, 1976.

10. Sharma, J. P.; Shukla, V. K. S.; Dubey, A. K.: Spectrophotometric determination of pyrrole derivatives. Talanta, 23, 841, 1976.

11. Shukla, V. K. S.; Shukla, S.: Micro determination of furfural using bromine monochloride. Bull. Chem. Soc. Japan, 50, 559, 1977.

12. Sharma, J. P.; Shukla, V. K. S.; Dubey, A. K.: Micro determination of aromatic amines and phenols using bromine monochloride in acetic acid medium. Mikrochimica Acta, 357, 1977.

13. Sharma, J. P.; Shukla, V. K. S.; Dubey, A. K.: Micro determination of pyrrole derivaties using bromine monochloride in acetic acid medium. Chemical & Pharmaceutical Bulletin, 25, 1493, 1977.

14. Shukla, V. K. S.: Micro determination of thiourea, allylthiourea, phenyl urea using bromine monochloride in water-acetic acid medium. Analyst, 102, 691, 1977.

15. Shukla, V. K. S.; Clausen, J.: Micro determination of ascorbic acid using bromine monochloride in water-acetic acid medium. Microchemical Journal, 22 (4), 475, 1977.

16. Shukla, V. K. S.; Jensen, E.; Clausen, J.: Erythrocyte glutathione peroxidase deficiency in Multiple Sclerosis. Acta Neurologica Scandinavia, 56, 542, 1977.

17. Shukla, V. K. S.; Sharma, J. P.: Kinetics and mechanism of Bromination of Crotonic acid by N-Bromosuccinimide. Monatshefte für Chemie, 109, 451, 1978.

18. Shukla, V. K. S.; Clausen, J.: Linoleate and fatty acids pattern of serum lipids in Multiple Sclerosis. Acta Neurolog. Scand. 57, 270, 1978.

19. Jensen, E; Shukla, V. K. S.; Nielsen, G.; Clausen, J.: Biochemical abnormalities in Batten's syndrome. Scand. J. Clin. Lab. Invest. 38, 309, 1978.

20. Shukla, V. K. S.; Jensen, E.; Clausen, J.: Serum fatty acids and peroxidase abnormalities in Batten's disease. Res. Exptl. Med. 173, 27, 1978.

21. Shukla, V. K. S.; Srivastava, K. C.: A simple procedure for the Chromatographic isolation and determination of prostaglandins from human seminal plasma. Z. Anal. Chem. 293, 45, 1978.

22. Shukla, V. K. S.; Srivastava, K. C.: Argentation thin layer chromatography of polyunsaturated fatty acid methyl esters. J. High Res. Chromato. & Chromatog. Commun. 215, Oct. 1978.

23. Shukla, V. K. S.; Srivastava, K. C.: Erythrocyte glutathione peroxidase and serum lipid pattern: A comparison between Indian immigrants and Danes. Z. Ernarungswissenschaft, 17, 240, 1978.

24. Shukla, V. K. S.; Abdel-Moety, E. M.; Larsen, E.; Egsgaard, H.: Identification of cyclopentenyl fatty acids by gas liquid chromatography and mass spectrometry. Chem. Phys. Lipids. 23, 285, 1979.

25. Shukla, V. K. S.; Kokate, C. K.; Srivastava, K. C.: Spectrophotometric determination of ascorbic acid. Michrochem. J. 24, 124, 1979.

26. Shukla, V. K. S.; Paulose, M. M.: The surface lipids of Hydnocarpus Wightiana leaves. Chem. Phys. Lipids, 25, 1, 1979.


14

27. Shukla, V. K. S.; Clausen, J.; Egsgaard, H.; Larsen, E.: The content of fat and polyenoic acids in the major food sources of the arctic diet. Localization of double bonds in fatty acids by means of mass spectrometry of fatty acid pyrolidides. Fette, Seifen, Anstrich. 82, 193, 1980.

1981 -1990 28. Shukla, V. K. S.: Studies on the crystallization behaviour of the cocoa butter equivalents by pulsed

NMR employing various tempering modes. Food R. A. Leatherhead reports, 24 May 1983.

29. Shukla, V. K. S.; Schiøtz Nielsen, W.: A simple and direct procedure for the evaluation of triglyceride composition of cocoa butters by high performance liquid chromatography - A comparison with the existing TLC-GC method. Fette, Seifen, Anstrich. 85, 274, 1983.

30. Shukla, V. K. S.: Studies on the crystallization behaviour of the cocoa butter equivalents by pulsed Nuclear Magnetic Resonance - Part I. Fette, Seifen, Anstrich. 85, 467, 1983.

31. Shukla, V. K. S.; Spener, F.: High performance liquid chromatography of triglycerides of Flacourtiaceae seed oils containing cyclopentenyl fatty acids (chaulmoogric oils). J. Chromatog. 348, 441, 1985.

32. Shukla, V. K. S.: Recent applications of the high performance liquid chromatography to oils and fats analysis. Proceedings of the 13th Scand. Symp. on Lipids. Reykjavik, Iceland, 1985.

33. Shukla, V. K. S.: Applications of the high performance liquid chromatography to oils and fats analysis. J. Am. Oil Chem. Soc. 62, 610, 1985.

34. Shukla, V. K. S.: High speed liquid chromatography as applied to oils and fats analysis. J. Am. Oil Chem. Soc. 63, 416, 1986.

35. Shukla, V. K. S.; Nielsen, S.: Application of high performance liquid chromatography for the evaluation of unconventional oils, Proceedings of the 14th Scand. Symp. on Lipids. Mora, Sweden, June 1987.

36. Shukla, V. K. S.: Quantitative determination of oligosaccharides in defatted soybean products by high speed liquid chromatography. Fette, Seifen, Anstrich. 89, 75, 1987.

37. Shukla, V. K. S.; Andersen, A. B.: High speed liquid chromatography as applied to the analysis of glucosinolates in rapeseed products. HPLC, 1987.

38. Shukla, V. K. S.: Studies on the crystallization behavior of the confectionery fats by pulse Nuclear Magnetic Resonance employing various tempering modes. J. Am. Oil Chem. Soc. 64, 658, 1987.

39. Fogh, K.; Kragballe, K.; Larsen, E.; Egsgaard, H.; Shukla, V. K. S.: Mass spectrometry of underivatized 15-hydroxy-eicosatetraenoic acid and 15-hydroxy-eicosapentaenoic acid. Biomedical and Environmental Mass Spectrometry. 17, 459, 1988.

40. Tolboe, O.; Hansen, I.R.; Shukla, V.K.S.: Extraction of Oil from Evening Primrose Seed. Proceedings of International Symposium on Supercritical Fluids, Nice, France. Oct. 1988.

41. "Recent advances in the high performance liquid chromatography of lipids".

41.1.1. Progress in Lipid Research, 1988.

42. "Confectionery fats". Elsevier's Development Series, 1988.

43. Christie, W. W.; Brechany, E. Y.; Shukla, V. K. S.: Analysis of seed oils containing cyclopentenyl fatty acids by combined chromatographic procedures. Lipids, 24, 116, 1989.

44. Shukla, V. K. S.: Application of high performance liquid chromatography for evaluation of lipid structures. J. Dispersion Science and Technology, 10, 581, 1989.

45. Shukla, V.K.S.; Nielsen, I.C.: Diversity of Minor Tropical Tree Crops and Their Importance for the Industrialized World. Tropical Forests. Academic Press Limited. 1989.

46. Kragballe, K.; Shukla, V. K. S.: Polyumættede fedtsyrepræparater på det danske marked. Ugeskrift for læger. 152, 894, 1990.

47. Shukla, V. K. S.: Dietary essential fatty acids and antioxidants. Lipid Technology, 2, Jan 1990.

48. "Milk fat in sugar and chocolate confectionery". Elsevier Applied Science Publishers Limited, 1990.

49. Shukla, V. K. S.: Rancidity in health food oils. British Food Manufacturing Industries Research Association. Symposium Proceedings. 45, May 1990.

1991 -2000 50. "Application of NMR Spectrometry: Pulsed NMR". Analyses of Fats, Oils and Lipoproteins. AOCS.

1991.

51. "Application of High Performance Liquid Chromatography to Lipid Separation and Analysis: Lipid Derivatives". Analyses of Fats, Oils and Lipoproteins. AOCS. 1991.


15

52. "Application of High Performance Liquid Chromatography of Triglycerides to Lipid Separation and Analysis: Neutral Lipids". Analyses of Fats, Oils and Lipoproteins. AOCS. 1991.

53. Shukla, V. K. S.; Perkins, E. G.: The presence of oxidative polymeric materials in encapsulated fish oils. Lipids. Vol. 26, No. 1, 1991.

54. Shukla, V.K.S.: Applications of Pulsed NMR Techniques for Food Analysis. IFSC 1991.

55. Shukla, V.K.S.: Antioxidants in Foods and the Treatment of Human Diseases. IFSC 1991.

56. Shukla, V.K.S.; Gunstone, F.D.: Oils and Fats in the Nineties. IFSC 1992.

57. Shukla, V.K.S.; Diplock, A.T.; Gutteridge, J.M.C.: Antioxidants, Free Radicals and Polyunsaturated Fatty Acids in Biology and Medicine. IFSC 1993.

58. Shukla, V.K.S.; Blicher-Mathiesen, U.: Studies in Evaluation of Unconventional Oils from Southeast Asia. Fat Sci. Tehcnol., 95. Jahrgang, Nr. 10, 1993.

59. MSK Syed Rahmatullah, Shukla, V.K.S., Mukherjee, K.D.: Enrichment of -Linolenic Acid from Evening Primrose Oil and Borage Oil via Lipase-Catalyzed Hydrolysis. JAOCS. Vol. 71, no. 6 (June 1994).

60. MSK Syed Rahmatullah, Shukla, V.K.S., Mukherjee, K.D.: -Linolenic Acid Concentrates from Borage and Evening Primrose Oil Fatty Acids via Lipase-Catalyzed Esterification. JAOCS. Vol. 71, no. 6 (June 1994).

61. "Present and Future Outlook of the World Fats and Oil Supplies". Technological Advances in Improved and Alternative Sources of Lipids. B.S. Kamel and Y. Kakuda. Blackie Academic & Professional. 1994.

62. "Milk fat in sugar and chocolate confectionery". Fats in Food products. D.P.J. Moran and K.K. Rajah, Blackie Academic & Professional. 1994.

63. "Oil Processing in the 21st Century". European Food and Drink Directory 1994/95. 1994.

64. "Cocoa Butter properties and Quality". Lipid Technology. 1995.

65. "Thin-Layer Chromatography of Lipids". New Trends in Lipid and Lipoproten Analyses. AOCS Press. 1995.

66. "High-Performance Liquid Chromatography: Normal-Phase, Reverse-Phase Detection Methodology". New Trends in Lipid and Lipoproten Analyses. AOCS Press. 1995.

67. "The Role of Dietary Fats and Oils". Fats, Oleochemicals and Surfactants. Challenges in the 21st Century. V.V.S. Mani and A.D. Shitole. Oxford & IBH Publishing Co. PVT. Ltd. OTAI , 1997.

68. "Milkfat and Its applications". The World of Ingredients. The Journal of the Practicing Food Technologist. January-February 1995.

69. Shukla, V.K.S.; Gunstone, F.D.: "NMR of Lipids". Annual Reports on NMR Spectroscopy. Volume 31. Academic Press. 1995.

70. Shukla, V.K.S.; Jensen, Ole Holm: Fatty Acid Composition and Tocopherol Content of Amazonian Palm Oils. Journ. of Food Lipids 3, 1996.

71. Shukla, V.K.S.; Shahidi, F; Wanasundara, P.K.J.P.D.: Endogenous Antioxidants from Oilseeds and Edible Oils, Food Rev. Int. 13 (2), 225-292, 1997.

72. Shukla, V.K.S.; Shahidi, F.: Non-triacylglycerol Constituents of Fats and oils. INFORM. Vol. 7, no. 11 1227-1232. November Issue. 1996.

73. Shukla, V.K.S.; Shahidi, F; Wanasundara, Udaya N.; He, Y.: “Marine Lipids and Their Stabilization with Green Tea and Catechins”. Flavor and Lipid Chemistry of Seafoods, 1997. ACS Washington.

74. Shukla, V.K.S.; Shahidi, F.; Wanasundara P.K.J.P.D.: “Natural Antioxidants from Oilseeds”. Natural Antioxidants, Chemistry, Health Effects, and Applications. 1997. AOCS Press.

75. Shukla, V.K.S.: ”Chocolate – The Chemistry of Pleasure”. INFORM, Vol. 8, no. 2 (February 1997).

76. Shukla, V.K.S.: ”Description of the IFSC minideodorizer”. INFORM, Vol. 8, no. 11 (November 1997).

77. Shukla, V.K.S.; Kragballe K: ”Exotic Butters as Cosmetic Lipids”. INFORM, Vol. no. 5 (May 1998).

78. Shukla, V.K.S.; Perkins, E.G.: Rancidity in Health Food Oils. INFORM, Vol. 9, (October 1998).

79. Shukla, V.K.S.; Goudappel, G.-J.; Gribnau, M.C.M; van Duynhoven, Solid Fat Content Determination by NMR. J. INFORM, Vol. 10 (May 1999).


16

2001 - 2010 80. Shukla, V.K.S.; Organic foods: present and future developments INFORM, Vol. No. 12 (May 2001).

81. Shukla, V.K.S.; Bhattacharya, K: Mango Butter in Cosmetic Formulations, Cosmetics & Toiletries, Vol. 117, No. 6 (June 2002).

82. Shukla, V.K.S.; Chocolate – A Food from the Past with a Future. INFORM, Vol. No. 13 (October 2002).

83. Shukla, V.K.S.; Dutta, P.C.; Artz, W.E.: Camelina Oil and its Unusual Cholesterol Content. JAOCS, Vol. 79, no. 10 (October 2002).

84. Shukla, V.K.S.; Bhattacharya, K.; Nutridan bakes a recipe for health. Oils and Fats International, May 2003.

85. Shukla, V.K.S.. A designer oil for better health. INFORM, Vol. No. 14 (June 2003).

86. Shukla, V.K.S., Bhattacharya, K.. Extending the shelf life of cosmetic products through novel stabilisation of exotic butters and oils, SÖFW-Journal Seifen, Öle, Fette, Wachse, 129, Jahrgang 9-2003.

87. Shukla, V.K.S., Bhattacharya, K. Enhancing the Stability Of Exotic Butters & Oils, Happi Magazine (Household and Personal Products Industry), December 2003.

88. Shukla, V.K.S., Bhattacharya, K. The magic of Rosemary, Oils & Fats International, January 2004.

89. Nielsen, Henning; Shukla, Vijai K.S.: In situ solid Phase Extraction of Lipids from Spray-dried Egg Yolk by Ethanol with Subsequent Removal of Triacylglycerols by Cold Temperature Crystallization. Swiss Society of Food Science and Technology. Elsevier Ltd. 2004

90. Shukla, Vijai K.S.: Designing Natural Cosmetics through the Dynamics of Naturally Derived Lipids, INFORM, Vol. 15 (4) (April 2004).

91. Shukla, Vijai K.S.; Bhattacharya, Kaustuv: Enhancing the Stability of Natural Oils and Butters with Rosemary Extracts, Cosmetics & Toiletries, Vol. 119, No. 5/May 2004.

92. Shukla, Vijai K.S.: The challenges of skin care, INFORM, Vol. 15 (5) (May 2004).

93. Shukla, Vijai K.S.; Bhattacharya, Kaustuv: Correcting omega-6/omega-3 balance in human diet by internally stabilised designer oil, Agro Food industry hi-tech, Tekno Scienze, Anno 15, May/June 2004.

94. Shukla, Vijai K.S.; Bhattacharya, Kaustuv: Novel introduction of omega-3 oils for enhancing the value of cosmeceuticals. NutraCos, Anno 3 – N. 3, B5 srl, May/June 2004,

95. Shukla, Vijai K.S.; Bhattacharya, Kaustuv: Nutridan, a vegetable-based source of omega-3. bake & take, The Journal of the National Association of Master Bakers, Dec 2004/Jan 2005.

96. Shukla, Vijai K.S.: New Horizons in the Development of Natural Oils and Butters as cosmetic Ingredients – Novel Introduction of Stabilized Omega-3 in Cosmeceuticals. T4 Group, UK. 2005.

97. Shukla, Vijai K.S.: The skinny on fats better functionality equals better products. Organic Processing Magazine CA, USA, Oct-Dec 2007, Vol 4, No 4

98. Shukla, Vijai K.S.: Innovative organic lipids in cosmeceuticals, Inform, Vol 19 (4), April 2008

99. Shukla, Vijai K.S.: Organic health food for rejuvenated bio skincare formulations emplying the power of chemoprenters. T4 Group UK, 2008.

100. Shukla, Vijai K.S.: Innovative Organic Lipids in Filtering the Chemistry in Cosmeceuticals, Cosmetic Science Technology, 2009

101. Shukla, Vijai K.S.: Natural oils & butters in cosmetics, book chapter “the Chemistry and manufacture of cosmetics, Vol. 3” Ingredients 2nd edition 102. Shukla, Vijai K.S., Le Poole, Hendrik A.C.: Review of Some Unconventional Tree Seed Oils from Africa for Application in Cosmetics, Cosmetic Science Technology, 2010

103. Shukla, Vijai K.S., Nielsen, Søren: Novel introduction of Spice and Fruit Butters and Oils in Cosmetic Applications, 2012.

105. Shukla, Vijai K.S., Nielsen, Søren: Enhancing the Value of Cosmeceuticals Through Internally Stabilised Spice Formulations in Cosmetic Applications, 2013. 106. Studies in the evaluation of unconventional oils from Burkina Faso, Part 1: Page 31- Cosmetic Applications, 2014

107. Shukla, Vijai K.S., Nielsen, Søren: Studies in the evaluation of unconventional oils from Burkina Faso, rich in Linoleic acid (C18:2 n-6) or other unusual fatty acids, Part 2: Cosmetic Applications 2015.


17

2011 - 108. Shukla, Vijai K.S.; Nielsen, Søren: Novel Introduction of Spise and Fruit Butters and Oils in Cosmetic

Applications, Cosmetic Science Technology 2012 109. Shukla, Vijai K.S.; Nielsen, Søren: Enhancing the Value of Cosmeceuticals Through Internally

Stabilised Spice Formulations, Cosmetic Science Technology 2013 110. Shukla, Vijai K.S.; Nielsen, Søren: Studies in the Evaluation of Unconventional Oils from Burkina Faso – Part One: Rich in Oleic Acid (C18:1 n-9), Cosmetic Science Technology 2014. 111. Shukla, Vijai K.S., Is Our Balanced Food Really Balanced? Correcting w6/w3 ratio through combating oxidation is the key to success for better health. J Food Nutr Popul Health Vol.1 No.2:18, 2017. 112. Shukla, Vijai K.S.; Correcting w6/w3 Ratio Through Combating Oxidation is the Key to Success for Better Health. Ann Short reports. 1(1): 1005, 2018. 113. Kodali, Sitharam; Shukla, Vijai K.S.: CBD Oil for Healthier-looking Skin. Global Cosmetic Industry Magazine, February 2019.

114. Shukla, Vijai K.S.; Mälkki, Yrjö: Enhancing Cosmeceuticals Via Phytonutrients. Happi Magazine

(Household and Personal Products Industry), February 2019.

INTERNATIONAL COSMETIC SCIENCE CENTRE

Articles & Publications

Skin is really quite remarkable. It pro-tects us from the sometimes harsh

external environment, microbial inva-sion, and physical injuries; regulates ourbody temperature; provides sensory input;and eliminates waste.

An adult’s skin constitutes between15 and 20% of the total body weight. Eachsquare centimeter of skin has 6 millioncells, 5,000 sensory points, 100 sweatglands, and 15 sebaceous glands.

The top layer of the skin, the epi-dermis, has an outermost layer called thestratum corneum. The stratum corneumis where moisture content is controlled.Within the stratum corneum, two maincomponents aid in this function—keratinand phospholipids. In healthy skin, thesetwo components work in conjunction to“keep out” irritants and maintain mois-t u r e .

When skin loses its phospholipidbilayers, it becomes dry. The ultimateresult is the entrance of potential irritantsand the exit of moisture through the skin.Thus, moisturizers are applied preven-tively or to help restore the stratumcorneum to its more normal function.

There are two means to moisturizethe skin. Moisture can be added back intothe skin, or transepidermal water loss(TEWL) can be blocked or inhibited.T E W L is the process by which mois-ture migrates from the dermal tissues tothe epidermis into the stratum corneumand evaporates into the atmosphere.

Fats are the secondary ingredient(after water) in moisturizers that act asemollients and humectants. An emol-lient makes skin soft and supple, anda humectant promotes moisture reten-tion.

C u r rent trends in skin careThere are multiple current trends in skin care.The old definition of Galenus for personal-care and cosmetic products (to cleanse, tocare, and to decorate) is considered obsoletethese days. Newer developments emphasizeto maintain and to improve.

On a daily basis, new ingredients areintroduced with all kinds of claims, even fora hand soap or a toothpaste. Innumerablebotanical extracts are being introduced, andfrequently these are implemented in prod-ucts only on the basis of in vitro experiments.

More and more products, particularly inthe high-end market segment, make eff e c t i v euse of components that are also part of our diet.The unity and integrity of the whole body isconsidered, and the skin is also an organ of ourbody; thus, a combination of skin care and bodyhealth is highly practiced. The use of activeingredients (vitamins, flavonoids, alkaloids,etc.) becomes manifest, but proof needs to begenerated regarding the functionality in andon the body. In the past it was said that “vita-mins are good for you.” Now substantiation isrequired; proven functionality is one of thet r e n d s .

Another major trend is to eliminate petro-chemical products. This started in the Nordiccountries, has already gone over to Germany,and is slowly moving to the Benelux countriesas well. So no more ethoxylates, no petro-chemical compounds such as mineral hydro-carbons; petrochemistry is phasing out.

Last but not least in skin care trends ismildness and skin friendliness, i.e., mimic-ing what the skin really needs relative toits functionality as the largest organ of ourb o d y. Mildness can be proven these days notonly in vitro but also in vivo. Mildness andskin friendliness are the important criteriafor the future in skin care products.

People are looking for nature-derivedproducts. In the terminology of the mar-ketplace, natural cosmetics are defined asproducts that do not contain:■ Animal-derived ingredients■ Ingredients that have been tested on animals■ Artificial preservatives■ Artificial dyes and pigments■ Synthetic chemicals■ Petrochemical products■ Crop-control agents and pesticides■ Solvents

In addition, botanical products shallbe produced under controlled and certifiedconditions. The ingredients used must besafe for humans, animals, and plants andcause no harm to the environment duringproduction, application, and disposal.The native microflora of the skin, hair, andmucous membranes should be respected,maintained, and controlled. The personal-care and cosmetic natural products shallsatisfy the boundary conditions of the requiredmicrobiological status, and pathogenico rganisms should be absent. All ingredientsused must be metabolized in the body andshould not cause irritation, sensitization, ora l l e rgic reactions.

Consumer expectationsConsumers expect their personal-care andskin care products to be functional: A t o o t h-paste will clean the teeth, a moisturizerwill regulate the skin’s moisture balance,a shampoo will cleanse the hair, and soforth. Sometimes the claims adhere to whatthe consumer wants (for example, to getrid of wrinkles) and is willing to pay for.In general people want to improve theirquality of life: Personal-care products andcosmetics play an important role in thatd i r e c t i o n .

290 COVER FEATURE inform • May 2004 • Volume 15 (5)

The challenges of skin careVijai K.S. Shukla

H o w e v e r, more and more consumersare becoming wiser. The number of consumerquestions on particular INCI (The InternationalNomenclature Cosmetic Ingredients) names isever increasing. Questions such as: Does thisproduct contain silicone oils, Are the surfac-tants used biodegradable, Are any allerg e n i cproducts present, Are petrochemical productspresent? are being asked more frequently.Customers want to be fully informed.U n f o r t u n a t e l y, many companies adhere to afalse approach and are misleading their cus-tomers. They state that their products are pre-servative free, but they do not hesitate to use10–20% ethanol as the preserving substance.They even go further than that, making non-justifiable claims and totally misleading theircustomers by heavily using ingredients that arenot in line with their marketing messages.H o w e v e r, these messages appeal to the cus-tomers.

Particular organizations such as Wa r e n t e s tund Öko-Test, Germany; Ecotox (ChemicalEcology and Ecotoxicology, University of Lund,Sweden), and BDIH/Germany (Bundesverbanddeutscher Industrie- und Handelsunternehmen)are having more and more influence on publicopinion. Sometimes these organizations caneven kill products. Whether or not it is justi-fied, 10 minutes of television coverage and yourproduct may be finished, or your productmay be raised to stardom (even though it mayhave nothing to offer). If your formulation is inagreement with their boundary conditions, youmay use these org a n i z a t i o n s ’ approval inyour marketing approach.

People also want to be able to identifythemselves with a particular ingredient theywant in a product, even though it may not haveany functionality at all, e.g., vitamin C, or pro-vitamin B5, even though they have no idea ofwhat it does. They want products with anti-freeradical properties, even though they don’t knowwhat they’re talking about. But they knowthe word and it sounds interesting and healthy—a product of a successful marketing department,whose task is to create awareness of particularingredients.

What role do oils and fatsplay in cosmetic pro d u c t s ?We need to differentiate the commodity oils(corn, soybean, rice, rapeseed, palm, coconut,palm kernel oil, etc.) from specialty oils suchas avocado, wheat germ, peach kernel, apricotkernel, argan, cherry kernel, evening primroseoil, etc., and the butters: shea, mango, illipe,allanblackia, shorea, pentadesma, cocoa, etc.

The commodity oils are too well knownto require further discussion. They are there,and it goes without saying that they will be there

to stay. Personal-care products and cosmeticsc a n ’t do without these oils.

The group of specialty oils and butterare often considered from the perspective oftheir triglyceride composition, and from thepresence of common substances such as tocoph-erols and tocotrienols. Most of these oils arecosmetically valuable because of their unsaponi-fiable fraction: the terpenoids, the steroid frac-tion, and the pentacyclic triterpenoid fraction.These are the real workhorses, and they areindispensable for personal-care and cosmeticproducts. The sales approach for vegetable oilsas the carriers for unsaponifiable productshas never received as much attention as today.

The vast majority of skin care productsuse specialty oils and fats but usually not in aconcentration that is beneficial for the skin. T h ereason is that high concentrations of vegetableoils and fats are considered to give a distinctoily/fatty skin feel. That is not necessary, but itrequires quite a bit of formulation technol-o g y. Probably also a limiting factor is that theunsaponifiable fraction is physiologically active;therefore, the claims would be quite pharma-ceutical. Finally, the current suppliers, usuallytraders with little product knowledge and evenless cosmetic/dermatological know-how, donot really know the potential of these oils.

Products with natural vegetable oils andfats (provided they are formulated correctly)are highly beneficial for skin care, and the sameis valid for botanical extracts and vitamins. Nosingle oil or butter can provide all the availablebenefits; therefore, we promote recipe-engi-neered products with a multifunctional approach.Polyunsaturated lipids are extremely prone tooxidation. We have recently developed a pro-cedure to enhance the shelf life of cosmeticproducts through a novel stabilization proce-dure. Future approaches using phytochemicalsand balanced fatty acid molecules, combinedwith an internal stabilization procedure, willopen avenues of new research in cosmetic appli-c a t i o n s .

F u t u re pers p e c t i v e sAclear agenda for skin care formulation withnatural ingredients is strictly hindered dueto an extensive lack of formulation technol-o g y. It is a real challenge for cosmetic chemiststo learn about the diversity of complex lipidsand their offerings to beautify the world ofc o s m e t i c s .

Vijai K.S. Shukla is director of the InternationalCosmetic Science Centre in Ly s t rup, Denmark.Contact him at: ApS, P.O. Box 44, DK-8520Ly s t rup, Denmark; phone: +45-86-22-99-86; fax: +45-86-22-99-96; e-mail: [email protected] ■

inform • May 2004 • Volume 15 (5) COVER FEATURE 291

Natural Ingredients

Cosmetic Science Technology 200945

IntroductionOrganic food is defined as a product of a farming system which is produced by avoiding the use of man-made chemical fertilizers, pesticides, growth regulators and livestock feed. The system should basically rely on crop rotation, animal and plant manure, some hand weeding and biological pest control. Organic fertilizers release the nutrients with time and are less likely to be washed out compared to synthetic fertilizers. Most organic fertilizers are by-products of the food industry and are devoid of synthetics.

Medicines and food have a common origin. This ancient Japanese proverb is, in one form or another core to the medical folklore of almost all cultures around the globe. Modern science, however, is only now beginning to provide solid scientific evidence for this very concept. There is ample body of evidence that certain vitamins and particularly their antioxidant activities can help prevent or delay the onset of diseases such as heart disease and cancer. However, a host of nonnutritive components of plant foods, especially polyphenols and phytoestrogens have come to be recognized as “chemopreventers” (i.e., naturally appearing chemical components with the strong capacity to prevent certain diseases).

We all should strive for enhancing individual beauty without threatening the beauty of our planet. In recent years natural products have grown from a niche segment to one of the fastest growing categories in personal care. In fact natural personal care (NPC) has outperformed other natural product segments such as functional foods and supplements. Growth of NPC will continue following the growth of the nutraceutical market as the consumer drive continues towards natural products offering more value for money.

Although all attempts are being made to replace petroleum-based products with natural ones, the substitution is far from complete, owing to the lack of in-depth knowledge of the raw materials as well as product formulations and stability. Application of natural oils and fats was severely restricted due to oxidative degradation of lipids resulting in malodours, colour changes, viscosity increases, and changes in specific gravity, solubility and appearance. We recently described the technology of development of a unique means of stabilization of exotic butters and natural oils, thus avoiding any cumbersome application of antioxidants and avoiding heating,

Innovative Organic Lipids in Filtering the Chemistry in CosmeceuticalsAuthor: Dr. Vijai K. S. Shukla, International Cosmetic Science Centre ApS, Lystrup, Denmark

homogenisation, extra labour, and handling of additional

powders. (Cosmetic Science and Technology 2005)

While using natural oils and butters, one can use either the

properties of triacylglycerol constituents or nontriacylglycerol

components (chemopreventers) or both as per the specific

requirements of the product formulation in question. This

paper deals with the art of engineering organic lipid products

employing both the above characteristics.

Nontriacylglycerol constituentsThe triacylglycerol constituents of fats and oils generally co-exist

with non-triacylglycerol components, and these are represented

mainly by unsaponifiable matter. Table 1 summarises the content

of unsaponifiable matter in selected oils. Among other oils, shea

butter, oat oil, neem oil, and avocado oil contain high amounts

of unsaponifiables which are non-fatty compounds. Shea olein

fraction may contain up to 12% unsaponifiable matter.

Oil Unsaponifiables

Soybean 1.5

Canola/rapeseed 2.0

Sesame 2.0

Avocado 4.5

Neem 5.0

Oat 6.0

Shea 6.0

Wheat germ 3.0

Rice bran 3.5

Evening primrose 1.5

Borage 1.2

Black currant 1.2

Palm 1.2

Sal 1.5

Sunflower 1.0

Grapeseed 1.0

Almond 0.5

Hazelnut 0.5

Castor 0.5

Coconut 0.2

Table 1: Content of unsaponifiable matter in selected oils (%)

Natural Ingredients


The unsaponifiable matter of fats and oils generally contains

a variety of active ingredients that could stabilise them

against deteriorative processes, although some might also

pose specific problems. The nontriacylglycerol constituents

belong primarily to the tocopherol/tocotrienol/phenolics and

flavonoids, sterols, phospholipids, carotenoids, and triterpenyl

alcohols as well as phytic acid family of compounds. Each oil

may contain several classes of the above substances, and may

have a pronounced effect on the stability of products and their

nutritional properties. Table 2 below summarises the chemical

classes of unsaponifiables in selected oils.

Oil Unsaponifiable constituents

Rapeseed/canola Sterols, tocopherols

Soybean Tocopherols, sterols, triterpene alcohols

Palm Tocotrienols, carotenoids, sterols, ubiquinones

Sesame Tocopherols, sesamolin, sesamin, sesamol, sterols

Rice bran Tocopherols, orzanol, phytic acid, sterols

Olive Hydroxytyrosol, elauropein, phenolic acids, tocopherols,

Oat Tocopherols, sterols, sterol esters, polar lipids, ferulates, caffeates

Avocado Tocopherols, sterols, triterpene alcohols

Shea butter Cinnamic acid esters, sterols and triterpene alcohols

Wheat germ oil Tocopherols, ferulic acid esters with triterpenic alcohols, polar lipids

Table 2: Important chemical constituents of unsaponifiable matter

Effect of processing on minor constituentsEach processing step in the degumming, refining, bleaching,

and deodorisation of edible oils is designed to perform a

specific function for removing certain minor components from

the sample. However, removal of compounds perceived as

having deleterious effects should be kept at an optimum level

so that their potential beneficial health effects are not totally

negated by their removal from oils or effects thereof.

Ferrari et al. have reported changes in the minor constituents of

vegetable oils during industrial processing as depicted in Table

3. It was clearly demonstrated that there was a marked decrease

in the content of tocopherols during the deodorisation process.

However, the content of sterols was less affected by heating.

The compound plastochromanol-8 was a minor constituent,

and its content did not change to any large extent.

Constituent Crude Degummed Neutralized Bleached Winterized Deodorized

Corn oil

Tocopherols 194.6 – 203.8 201.9 193.5 76.7

Tocotrienols 7.9 – 10.2 10.0 9.8 6.1

Total sterols 1113.9 – 859.2 848.8 818.3 715.3

Rapeseed/canola oil

Tocopherols 136.0 114.7 128.7 117.8 – 87.3

Total sterols 820.6 772.0 797.8 650.4 – 393.0

Soybean oil

Tocopherols 222.3 291.9 267.7 284.0 – 195.2

Total sterols 359.5 321.5 313.9 288.8 – 295.4

Table 3: Changes in the content and composition of minor components of vegetable oils during industrial processing (mg/100 g)

Natural Ingredients


Another oil component that might be fully depleted during

processing is its carotenoid constituents. Bleaching of

carotenoids in palm oil is an intentional industrial process

employed to obtain a colourless product. However, production

of red palm oil as a speciality product is now being practised.

Cold-pressed oils have the advantage over solvent-extracted

oils as the cold-pressed oils retain much more of their valuable

ingredients; thus pressed oils are more stable than extracted oils.

However, this stability is only possible for oils where pressing is

done at low temperatures of less than 50ºC so that the natural

components do not degrade. In addition, cold extraction demands

high-quality seeds that have not deteriorated oxidatively and

whose oils contain low levels of free fatty acids.

Organic Lipids for CosmeceuticalsThe oil from the mechanical press contains moisture, waxes

and other solid waste such as small fractions of the grain

shells which remain suspended in the oil. These are removed

by filtration through cotton cloth and subsequent decanting

into vats which eliminates the waxes. A second step filtration

is done using blotting paper to remove traces of moisture

and wax.

The oil thus obtained has a high peroxide value and free fatty

acid content. Instead of conventional neutralisation with alkali,

the oil is deodorised using steam under high vacuum (around

2-5 mmbar) at temperatures varying between 150 – 210

degrees C. Under such conditions, both the free fatty acid

content and the peroxide value drop considerably to required

percentages. Thus the oil gets refined without the involvement

with any kind of chemicals.

In some cases the oil is bleached using naturally active

bleaching and clarifying adsorbents which do not contain

mineral acid or other chemical compounds. Fractionated

products like oleins and stearins are used for various product

formulations. Such physical fractionations are done by

cooling the parent oils at a suitable temperature without any

solvents such as acetone, hexane etc. The oleins and stearins

thus obtained retain their organic label and can be used for

designing organic formulations.

Employing the natural power of fractionation we have engineered

a range of raw materials with very high concentration of bio-

actives and retained these in further processing, thus the

resultant oil is the most clean and bioactives rich organic

ingredient to be used in formulations.

At our company we have very recently developed a range of

rejuvenated organic ingredients with moderately high Sun

Protection Factor (SPF) value, based on vegetable lipids. They

do not cause true allergy (contact dermatitis) as many synthetic

compounds, nor the more common photosensitive irritation.

The Rejuvenated Biolipid Series has an exceptional natural sun

protection factor, contains natural antioxidants rendering the

lipids more stable than conventional recipe engineered lipids,

is antimicrobial and has healing properties.

The four rejuvenated bio organic products for cosmetic

formulations are:

Rejuvenated Biolipid SPF: Sun-protective creams, anti-

wrinkle creams, body lotions, bath foams, baby care

products and massage creams. This product provides

high natural SPF (Sun Protection Factor), anti-microbial

properties, antioxidant properties and healing effect.

Rejuvenated Biolipid 100: Emollient for skin-care

applications, a rejuvenated replacement of conventional

shea butter in anti-wrinkle creams, body lotions, bath foams,

baby care, sun-care products and massage creams.

Rejuvenated Biolipid Danomega-3: Effective in adding

nourishment to the skin especially in creams, lotions, anti-

wrinkle creams, baby care products and massage creams

and specifically anti-inflammatory cosmetic products.

Rejuvenated Biolip Lipids: Specifically for lipstick production.

•

•

•

•

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Organic Haircare with AmlaAmla is known for its medicinal and therapeutic potential

from ancient times in India. Sushrutu, the father of ancient

“Ayurveda” medicine, mentioned its therapeutic potential

during 1500 BC – 1300 BC. Amla promotes healthier hair. It

maintains youthful hair colour and retards premature greying,

and supports the strength of the hair follicles, so there is less

thinning with age. Its hair promoting properties are attributed

to its high content of tannins (20%). When blended with

rosemary it stimulates hair growth.

We have successfully combined these above strong properties

to design organic exotic butters such as mango and shea as

ingredients for the hair care industry.

ConclusionProducts based on natural ingredients have always been popular

with consumers, whether functional, isolated chemical or

biologically-targeted ones, they are of significant value in beauty

care. This paper successfully demonstrates the art of production

of all natural active ingredients for skin care and hair care

formulations using organic lipids. These all natural ingredients

will provide new impetus in designing safe, innovative, high

performance, elegant feeling and, above all, completely natural

series of cosmeceuticals. The beauty of these products is that

they provide all properties such as antioxidant, antimicrobial,

healing and natural SPF in one envelope.

Author’s Biography

Awards: AOCS’s Fellow Award (2005), AOCS’s Stephen S. Chang Award (2002),

AOCS’s Herbert J. Dutton Award (1996).

Author of more than 110 original scientific publications, 3 invited review papers,

8 book chapters in the areas of biochemistry, human nutrition, enzymology,

modern analytical techniques for the separation of lipids and proteins.

Specialization

Vijai K.S. Shukla’s research interests have ranged from physical phenomena to

mechanism of autoxidation, isolation of lipids, spectral phenomena related to

lipids, modern analytical methodology and involvement of essential fatty acids in

health and diseases such as multiple sclerosis and Batten’s syndrome.

Shukla has shown essential fatty acid deficiency in multiple sclerosis and

Batten’s disease. These were related with glutathione peroxidase activity and

antioxidants requirements in these diseases. Shukla has also analyzed arctic

diet in Greenland Eskimos and compared with Danes elucidating some of

the mechanism of coronary heart diseases in these population groups. In his

research work Shukla employs modern analytical methodology in order to resolve

various scientific problems.

Accomplishments in Industrial Applications

Shukla has been working in the area of confectionery product development for

the last sixteen years. He has a special expertise in cocoa butter, milk fat, cocoa

butter equivalents and cocoa butter substitutes based on modern concepts of

recipe engineering.

Shukla has always applied scientific principles to upgrade or modify existing

production to achieve super quality products. Some of his major achievements

are as follows:

During 1996 Dr Shukla has established a brand new refinery in Holland and

has successfully demonstrated that total oxidation in bulk oils can be completely

arrested and speciality fats delivered to the customers will be of extremely fresh

quality. These deliveries were in the scale of 500-1000 MT per shipment. A

proper research approach clearly shows that it is possible to provide an uplift to

large scale production through extreme caretaking the help of nitrogen as intert

gas and stainless steel in the production system. A number of international press

articles presented these developments.

For the last decade Dr Shukla’s research has focussed on the quality of

encapsulated fish and vegetable oils. He has successfully demonstrated that it is

possible to produce an ultrarefined fish oil with extreme low peroxide value and

anisidine value. This oil is already in commercial production.

Having produced the above mentioned oils it is of utmost importance to keep these

oxidation values extremely low therefore he has designed several natural antioxidant

systems for general nutrition as well as cosmetic oils. This natural antioxidant system

is 50 to 60 times more powerful than existing available antioxidants.

He has recently developed a novel designer oil called Nutridan containing very high

amounts of essential polyunsaturated fatty acids. The oils used are of vegetable

origin and extracted by physical means and are thus totally solvent free. Nutridan

provides not only balanced essential fatty acids, but also a high dosage of natural

antioxidants which are extremely beneficial for better health. Nutridan helps to

lower the ratio of omega 6/omega 3 fatty acids in human nutrition.

Natural Ingredients


IntroductionWe should strive for enhancing individual beauty without

threatening the beauty of our planet. In recent years natural

products have grown from a niche segment to one of the fastest

growing categories in personal care. In fact, natural personal

care (NPC) has outperformed other natural product segments

such as functional foods and supplements. Growth of NPC will

continue following the growth of the nutraceutical market.

Undoubtedly one of the fastest growing sectors in the global

skin care market is in natural, organic and Fair Trade cosmetics,

which is predicted to reach a staggering 80% in the next year.

Prompted by consumer lifestyle decisions that increasingly

reject synthetic and chemical ingredients in favour of natural

alternatives, so-called ‘ethical consumers’ demand cosmetics

that are Fairly Traded, aren’t tested on animals and don’t harm

the environment.

Oil crops have been cultivated since antiquity. For the past

half century the cultivation of oil bearing plants has increased

considerably. There are several species of plants in the world

whose oil can be utilised for human consumption. In human

nutrition plant lipids and seed oils are preferable to animal fat,

due to their low content of cholesterol and their generally high

proportion of polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFA).

Several earlier studies(1-4) reported the fatty acid composition of

newer seeds oils. Several underexploited or unexploited trees

are found in tropical ecosystems. Some of these have already

proved their importance for the industrialised world. The

present paper deals with the evaluation of 4 different naturally

occurring seed oils from Africa.

Most people working with cosmetics are by now very familiar

with Shea butter, a fat which is collected in the Sahel countries

Review of Some Unconventional Tree Seed Oils from Africa for Application in CosmeticsAuthors: Dr. Vijai K. S. Shukla, Mr. Hendrik A. C. Le Poole, International Cosmetic Science Centre ApS, Lystrup, Denmark.

in Western Africa and now widely used as a key emollient in

numerous cosmetics products. It is now hardly imaginable that

until some 15 years ago Shea butter was hardly known.

Yet Africa has much more to offer and there are countless

other oils and fats with very interesting properties which have

hardly been explored, let alone are being used in Western

cosmetic products.

In the following section we will make a selection of a few oils

and butters which we believe have the potency to become

important and regular constituents of Western cosmetics

because of their undeniable benefits and, above all, increased

availability due to better organised collection and quality

control programmes.

Trichilia Emetica (Meliaceae)Common Name: Mafura

Figure 1. Geographical distribution of T. Emetica

This tree is known all over Africa for its healing properties.

It is found all the way up from the Sahel countries down to

Southern Africa. In South Africa it is called Natal mahogany,

but the local people in Southern Africa call it Mafura. In

Mozambique a special ‘white’ variety is widely used as an

Natural Ingredients


edible fat. However, Mafura butter is also used for cosmetic

applications to treat the skin against infections, inflammations

etc. In the past, large quantities of Mafura butter have been

exported to Europe but due to the civil war this has strongly

declined in the last decades.

The Natal mahogany tree is a large, evergreen tree with a wide

spreading crown which casts dense shade. The handsome

leaves are a glossy dark green. The sweet smelling flowers

are a creamy green colour and are produced in tight bunches.

The nectar attracts bees and birds. The round fruits split when

mature, revealing striking glossy red seeds with a black spot

on one. Therefore, these seeds are often used for decorative

purposes. It is often seen that woodcrafters like to use the very

hard wood for their crafts, inserting the seeds as eyes in their

animal wood cuttings.

The local people extract fat from the seeds in the conventional

way, similar to Shea butter. The seeds are ground and cooked

in large pots until the fat floats on top of the water and can

be spooned off. The cooking may take a full day to extract as

much fat as possible and require a lot of wood to burn and yet

the yields are only a fraction of the potential yield.

The seeds contain up to 65% fat with the following fatty

acid composition: palmitic acid 34-54%, stearic acid 2-3%,

oleic acid 28-51%, linoleic acid 11-16% and α-linolenic

acid around 1%.

The fat contains a large number of limonoids, notably trichilin

and dregeanin which have antibacterial and anti-inflammatory

properties, but may also be the cause of emetic effects when

eating Mafura butter with a high content of limonoids.

Sclerocarya Birrea (Anacardiaceae)

Common Name: Marula

Figure 4. Geographical distribution of S. Birrea

The Marula tree is related to the mango and grows in abundance

in all of Africa. It is a single stemmed tree – up to 18m in

height – with grey mottled bark and a wide spreading crown.

It is drought-resistant and most common at low altitudes in

open woodlands.Figure 3. Ripe T. Emetica fruits with seeds

Figure 2. Mafura tree with fruits

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The history of the Marula tree goes back thousands of years.

Archaeological evidence shows the Marula tree was a source

of nutrition as long as ago as 10,000 years B.C.

The fruit of the Marula is about the size of a plum with a

leathery skin that is butter yellow when ripe. The scented

juicy white flesh clings to a hard brown stone (hence the Latin

name Sclerocarya), inside which are two or three seeds that

are so rich in oil that even a squeeze with the hand can release

a rich yield.

Most well known as the fruit that ‘drives elephants mad’ when

dropped to the ground and lightly fermented, Marula is a

much-loved tree in the African bush. Abundant in fruit and in

numbers, the Marula tree is found widely in many of Southern

Africa’s rural communities.

The processing of the seeds is a very tedious and laborious

task. Within the nut the kernel is shaped like a tooth with a

crown and two or three roots. First the nut is cracked with a

stone and then the kernel is painstakingly removed using a

thorn or a bit of wire. A single woman can remove 1-2 kg of

kernels per day. The kernels are then pressed in a simple hand

press which yields only 12-14% oil.

The fatty acid profile is similar to that of olive oil: palmitic acid

9-12%, stearic acid 5-8%, oleic acid 70-78%, and linoleic

acid 4-7% are the major fatty acids.

Figure 7. Marula kernels

Marula oil is well known for its extreme oxidative stability.

Rancimat tests at 120˚C resulted in an Induction Period of

over 40 hours or more than 8 times that of olive oil. As this

could not be explained by its fatty acid composition, there

has been a lot of speculation about the cause of this extreme

stability. Recent research has shown that surprisingly the

tocopherol content rapidly decreases towards the ripening of

the seeds, but the content of phenolics, notably flavonoids,

increases strongly in the last weeks before final harvest which,

apparently, more than compensates for the ‘consumption’

of the tocopherols.Figure 6. S. Birrea fruits on the ground

Figure 5. Marula tree with fruits

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Marula’s healing oil has long been used as a cosmetic by

Southern African women who massage it into their hair and

onto the skin of their face, feet and hands. Its moisturising

properties make it especially popular as a treatment for

dry, cracking skin.

Adansonia Digitata (Bombacaceae)

Common Name: Baobab

Figure 8. Geographical distribution of A. Digitata

The Baobab tree is found all over Africa in Savannahs with a

pronounced dry season. It has a very unusual shape and is

often compared with a tree that has been put upside down in

the ground. The trunk can be several meters in diameter and

can provide enough space for a living room. In fact the Baobab

tree with its peculiar shape can be regarded as the symbol

of tropical Africa.

The Baobab tree forms beautiful flowers which open only for

one night and are pollinated by one specific bat species. The

fruits are large green pods which can be easily seen hanging on

the branches during the dry season. The seeds in the pods are

embedded in a white very nutritious pulp which is often used

to make beverages.

The seeds contain about 15% of a rich golden yellow oil with

a slight nutty smell. It has the following fatty acid composition:

palmitic acid 23-27%, stearic acid 3-9%, oleic acid 33-42%,

linoleic acid 20-32 and linolenic acid 1-3%. Baobab oil also

contains minor quantities of cyclopropenoid fatty acids which

make the oil less suitable for human consumption, although

these undesirable fatty acids can be easily removed by heating

or deodorisation at 180˚C.

Baobab oil has a relatively high content of 2.8-3.8% of

unsaponifiable matters which are mainly sterols. However

Baobab oil also has a rather high content of tocopherols (close to

1000 ppm) which may explain its very good oxidative stability.

Baobab oil has been part of African skin care for centuries.

Baobab oil is said to provide impressive moisturising benefits

to the skin and hair. It absorbs quickly, improves elasticity,

encourages regeneration of skin cells and does not clog the

pores. It is an excellent ingredient in formulations for eczema

and psoriasis. It can be used in small percentages in creams,

lotions, body butters and other skin care formulations.Figure 9. Baobab tree

Figure 10. Baobab flower

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Schinziophyton RautaneniiCommon Name: Mungongo or Maketti

Figure 12. Geographical distribution of S. Rautanenii

The Maketti is a tree of seasonal dry lands, surviving unreliable

rains and temperatures ranging from maybe –5º C in winter to

well over 40º C in summer. In its ‘core’ area, virtually coast

to coast in the middle part of Southern Africa (about latitudes

15-21 degrees) it usually occurs in large groves or more

extensive stands, and is either the dominant tree in the stand,

or co-dominant. Some groves are as much as several hundred

meters wide, and may run for several kilometres.

It is a deciduous tree which can form large trunks and can

become 20m tall. At the beginning of the dry season the half-

ripe fruits fall on the ground where in a good season they can

form a carpet of ripening fruits which can be easily collected

by the local people.

The fruit stones (‘nuts’) were, and locally still are, the staple

food for a number of hunter-gatherer peoples, particularly the

San Bushmen in Namibia. After removal of the fruit pulp and

hard shell of the stone, the kernels are boiled in water to extract

oil. Traditionally the oil is spooned off the surface of the water

and kept for later use in soups.

Once collected, the hard shell can be broken between two rocks

and the single kernel (sometimes there are two) extracted. It

is easier to crack if it is roasted in a fire first – or, as in some

areas, covered in sand and a fire built on top. The kernel or ‘nut

meat’ is surrounded by a hard but thin seed coat which is easy

to remove by hand. The kernel is about the size of a hazelnut.

The creamy yellow nut meat is oily and nutritious; it is very

good eaten raw and even more delicious when it is roasted. The

oil content is between 55-60% Fatty acids in the oil include

palmitic acid 10%, stearic acid 8% linoleic acid 38%, oleic

acid 15% and α-elaeostearic acid (C18:3) 29%. Some reports

mention the presence of α-linoIenic acid (C18:3) instead and

this needs further clarification as they are isomers with different

physiological properties.

Little has been reported about the oxidative stability of this oil.

Based on the fatty acid composition it is unlikely to come close

to the earlier described oils and butter.

Figure 13. Free standing S. Rautanenii tree

Figure 11. Open Baobab pod

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Figure 14. S. Rautanenii branch with fruits

In cosmetics, the oil is used for its hydrating, regenerating and

restructuring properties and UV protection for hair and skin.

As the Maketti tree grows only in dry areas where it is hardly

possible to get an income from agriculture, collection and

processing of these fruits may provide a substantial income for

the people living in these areas.

Figure 15. S. Rautanenii seeds

ConclusionThis paper clearly demonstrates that Africa makes available to us a large variety of oils and fats, which, if developed commercially can provide enormous potential for the vegetable oils and fats industry globally and can significantly support the livelihood of many families in Africa living on the verge of subsistence/survival. These new oils will find several exotic applications in cosmetics utilising the gold of nature from Africa.

References1. F.D. Gunstone and R. Subbarao, Chem. Phys. Lipids 1, 349 (1967)2. L.H. Princen, in :R.C. Cambie, Fats for the Future, Ellis, Horwwod

Limited, England, Chap. 14, 205, (1989).3. K. Sundar Rao, G.P.Jones, D.E.Rivett and D.J.Tucket, Fat Sci. Technol.

95, 27 (1992)4. V.K.S. Shukla and U.B. Mathiesen. Fat Sci Technology, 95, 10, 367-

369, (1993)

Authors’ BiographiesDr. Vijai K. S. Shukla’s awards: AOCS’s Fellow Award (2005), AOCS’s Stephen S. Chang Award (2002), AOCS’s Herbert J. Dutton Award (1996).

Author of more than 90 original scientific publications, 3 invited review papers, 8 book chapters in the areas of biochemistry, human nutrition, enzymology, modern analytical techniques for the separation of lipids and proteins.

SpecialisationDr. Shukla’s research interests have ranged from physical phenomena to mechanism of autoxidation, isolation of lipids, spectral phenomena related to lipids, modern analytical methodology and involvement of essential fatty acids in health and diseases such as multiple sclerosis and Batten’s syndrome.

Dr. Shukla has shown essential fatty acid deficiency in multiple sclerosis and Batten’s disease. These were related with glutathione peroxidase activity and antioxidants requirements in these diseases. Shukla has also analyzed arctic diet in Greenland Eskimos and compared with Danes elucidating some of the mechanism of coronary heart diseases in these population groups. In his research work Shukla employs modern analytical methodology in order to resolve various scientific problems.

Accomplishments in Industrial ApplicationsDr. Shukla has been working in the area of confectionery product development for the last sixteen years. He has a special expertise in cocoa butter, milk fat, cocoa butter equivalents and cocoa butter substitutes based on modern concepts of recipe engineering.

Dr. Shukla has always applied scientific principles to upgrade or modify existing production to achieve super quality products. Some of his major achievements are as follows:

During 1996 Dr. Shukla has established a brand new refinery in Holland and has successfully demonstrated that total oxidation in bulk oils can be completely arrested and speciality fats delivered to the customers will be of extremely fresh quality. These deliveries were in the scale of 500-1000 MT per shipment. A proper research approach clearly shows that it is possible to provide an uplift to large scale production through extreme caretaking the help of nitrogen as intert gas and stainless steel in the production system. A number of international press articles presented these developments.

For the last decade Dr. Shukla’s research has focussed on the quality of encapsulated fish and vegetable oils. He has successfully demonstrated that it is possible to produce an ultrarefined fish oil with extreme low peroxide value and anisidine value. This oil is already in commercial production.

Having produced the above mentioned oils it is of utmost importance to keep these oxidation values extremely low therefore he has designed several natural antioxidant systems for general nutrition as well as cosmetic oils. This natural antioxidant system is 50 to 60 times more powerful than existing available antioxidants.

He has recently developed a novel designer oil called Nutridan containing very high amounts of essential polyunsaturated fatty acids. The oils used are of vegetable origin and extracted by physical means and are thus totally solvent free. Nutridan provides not only balanced essential fatty acids, but also a high dosage of natural antioxidants which are extremely beneficial for better health. Nutridan helps to lower the ratio of omega 6/omega 3 fatty acids in human nutrition.

Mr. Hendrik (Rik) A. C. Le Poole M.Sc. studied at the Agricultural University of Wageningen in The Netherlands. He is the Business Development Director at ICSC specialising in exploring and developing new opportunities in agribusiness and biosciences. His projects include a new fat formulation for baby food, cocoa butter replacers, refining processes and improving oxidative stability of specialty oils and fats for cosmetic applications.

Natural Ingredients


AbstractThe relationship between food and health has been duly

recognised throughout recorded history. Herbs, roots and

berries with health beneficial properties were known thousands

of years ago and have been continuously utilised to promote

sound health and to combat diseases. In more recent times, it

has been discovered that these reliable products are the source

of vitamins, antioxidants and other health related essential

nutrients. This paper presents unique developments of natural

products employing spices and fruits to design extremely

effective oils and butters for cosmetic applications. These

products are internally stabilised to enhance the shelf life of

the final applications.

IntroductionSpices and herbs have played a dramatic role in the

development of Western Culture. Spices are seasoning for food

that come from bark, buds, fruit or flower parts, roots, seeds or

stems of various aromatic plants and trees. Herbal medicines

rarely have significant side effects when used appropriately

and at suggested doses. Spices play an important role in the

human diet. A diet containing all the nutritive components

required by the body may be quite insipid without spices.

The term spice or condiment applies to ‘such natural plant

or vegetable products or mixtures thereof, in whole or ground

form, as are used to impart flavour, aroma and piquancy to and

for seasoning food’.

Ayurveda medicine prescribes more that 700 plant-based

medicines that contain spices and food additives to encourage

good health. Good quality clinical research to support the

reputed effects of many herbs is extremely lacking.

Of the various spices available, only nine spices viz, pepper,

ginger, cloves, cinnamon, cassia, mace, nutmeg, pimento and

cardamom together contribute to over 90% of the total world

trade in spices. The major spices of India include pepper,

cardamom, ginger, turmeric and chillies, forming about 85%

of the total export of spices.

Novel Introduction of Spice and Fruit Butters and Oils in Cosmetic ApplicationsAuthors: Prof. Dr. Vijai K.S. Shukla, Søren Nielsen, International Cosmetic Science Centre ApS, Lystrup, Denmark

Turmeric (Curcuma longa) belongs to the ginger family. Of

about 70 turmeric species C. longa is the most important

cultivated variety (96% of the cultivated area), whereas C.

aromatica accounts for 40% of the area under cultivation. The

cured turmeric has a sweet fragrance and is largely used to

make several cosmetic products.

Turmeric Plant (Curcuma longa)

The turmeric rhizomes, like ginger, are cured for the development

of the colour and aroma. The rhizomes are cooked in water,

limewater or sodium bicarbonate solution and the soft, cooked

rhizomes are sun-dried, cleaned and polished mechanically in

rotary drums. The cured and finished product is brittle and has

a striking yellow colour.

Component %

Moisture 5.8 %

Protein 8.6 %

Fat 8.9 %

Carbohydrates 63.0 %

Fibre 6.9 %

Ash 6.8 %

Calcium 0.2 %

Phosphorous 0.26 %

Iron 0.05 %

Table 1. Nutritional Composition of Indian Turmeric (1)

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Vitamin mg/100g

Thiamin 0.09

Riboflavin 0.19

Niacin 4.9

Vitamin A 175 IU/100g

Table 2. Vitamin Content of Turmeric (mg/100g)

Turmeric gives 1.5% essential oil on steam distillation. It

consists of 56% sesquiterpene ketones (termerones) and 9%

tertiary alcohol. An oleoresin containing all the aroma and

flavour of turmeric can be obtained on solvent extraction,

followed by removal of the solvent. It has a great value in the

food and pharmaceutical industries. Curcumin pigment gives

turmeric its yellow colour.

Turmeric powder is used as a flavouring agent and a colourant

in many foods to give them agreeable flavour and colour. It is

a constituent of any curry powder and prepared mustards. It

is also used for dyeing wool, silk and cotton. Since turmeric is

an antioxidant and has germicidal properties, it finds a use in

cosmetics and medicines.

There is a long list of skin care benefits associated with

turmeric, including the treatment of acne, blemishes, dark

spots and hyperpigmentation and other skin conditions such

as eczema and psoriasis. It helps heal and prevent dry skin

and to slow the skin ageing process and is used to diminish

wrinkles, keep skin supple and improve skin elasticity. This

sunny, bright spice is also being used as an ingredient in

sunscreens. It is used daily by East Indian women as a facial

cleanser and exfoliant and also as a facial hair reducer.

In order to introduce curcumin in cosmetic products, we have

recently designed turmeric butter which contains around 5% of

the tetrahydro curcuminoids, the active molecule of turmeric.

The analytical characteristics of this product, which is based on

soft shea stearin as base butter, are as shown below in Table 3.

Oxidation of Oils and FatsThe oil or fat content of a cosmetic product can vary from 2-15%

in the case of body lotions and creams, while it can be 100% in

the case of massage oils. It is very important that only the best

quality oil or fat is used in any cosmetic formulation. ‘Quality’

of a commercial oil or fat is very often measured through its

oxidative stability. Oxidation of a lipid is a very common and

serious problem for any fat containing product, food or cosmetic.

Characteristic changes linked with oxidative degradation of

oils and fats include development of malodours, unpleasant

tastes and might lead to change of colour, increase in viscosity,

specific gravity and solubility. The mechanism of autoxidation

has been postulated by many authors. Autoxidation is a

natural free radical process between molecular oxygen and the

unsaturated fatty acids of an oil, which leads to the formation

of short lived hydroperoxides (primary oxidation products).

The hydroperoxides readily break down to form aldehydes,

ketones and other hydrocarbons. These secondary oxidation

products impart rancid odour and taste. One way of preventing

autoxidation is the addition of antioxidants.

The interest of the food and cosmetic industry in phenolic

antioxidants is primarily related to the extension of the shelf

life of the various consumer products. In the present global

market, there is hardly any food or cosmetic product, semi-

finished or finished, which does not contain any added

preservatives. The antioxidants used are mostly synthetic,

Product Code, INCI Name and CAS No.

Product Code : 901074

INCI Name : Curcuma longa Extract Butyrospermum parkii Kernel Fat

CAS no. : 84775-52-0 91080-23-8

Specifications

Organoleptic:

Appearance : Solid Butter

Odour : Characteristic Odour

Colour : Pale Yellow

% Free Fatty Acid (as Oleic Acid) Max 1.00

Iodine Value 40 - 50

Peroxide Value (meq/kg) Max 5

Saponification Value 188 - 203

Table 3. Characteristics of Turmeric Butter

Natural Ingredients


namely butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA), ascorbyl palmitate,

tertiary butylhydroxyquinone (TBHQ) etc. But the consumers’

awareness of the possible toxic side effects of synthetic

antioxidants and preference for natural additives, has led to

more detailed investigations and applications of natural herb

extracts as antioxidants.

This paper highlights two highly efficient ways of stabilising

oils and butters without the application of synthetics. Using

supercritical CO2 and other solvents such as ethanol for

extraction, the components of rosemary extracts (Rosmarinus

officinalis) have been well studied. The composition of

rosemary extract is quite complex, consisting of a mixture of

phenolic acids and diterpenes. The main antioxidative effect

of rosemary extracts come from three phenolic compounds

namely carnosic acid, carnosol and rosmarinic acid, of which

over 90% of the antioxidant activity is from carnosic acid and

carnosol. Flavonoids, particularly flavones, have also been

identified in rosemary extracts. Apart from the antioxidant

activity, there are mentions of antimicrobial, antiviral,

antimutagenic activities of rosemary extracts.

Despite these various benefits, application of rosemary

extracts often incorporates a distinctive flavour, characteristic

of rosemary. This limits the use of rosemary extracts to a large

extent in food and cosmetic products. Using rosemary extracts,

we have developed a process called ‘internal stabilisation’ by

which all exotic butters and natural oils are protected against

oxidative deterioration (2,3).

The butters and oils used for our study of internally stabilised

products are shea butter, mango butter, sal butter or shorea

butter, evening primrose oil and borage oil. Another way of

protecting oils and butters is by external addition of rosemary

extracts. The oils and butters used for this are camelina, flax,

blackcurrant, evening primrose and borage and mango butter

and shea butter.

MethodsOil stability index (OSI) was determined as a tool to judge

oxidation stability. The instrument chosen for determining

OSI was a Rancimat 743. The principle of Rancimat analysis

depends on the measurement of an increase of electrical

conductivity by volatile carboxylic acids generated in the

oxidising oil sample. The temperature was maintained at

120°C for exotics and 80°C and 100°C for liquid oils. The air

in-flow was maintained at 18 lit / hr and the sample size was

3.0 + 0.05 gm.

Internal StabilisationThe data obtained, induction periods (IP) from the Rancimat

tests, were plotted as a function of time to obtain bar diagrams

which show the relative increase of oxidative stability for each

of the test samples. The results are divided into two groups,

namely the exotic butters and natural oils.

Fruit Butters and OilsPomegranate seed oil is an extremely rich oil with powerful

antioxidant properties and it can be extensively used in several

cosmetic applications such as soaps, massage oils, facial care,

body care and cosmetics. We have successfully extended our

internal stabilisation technique to all our fruit oils and butters

to provide the following benefits:

• prolonged shelf life of the cosmetic products in which they

are used

• stronger antioxidant properties compared to natural

tocopherols

• strong antimicrobial properties which can remove the

amount of chemical preservatives in the final formulation

of the skincare products

• strong anti-inflammatory and anti-ageing properties

• no need to add antioxidants in the formulation of the final

cosmetic product

• adds a more ‘natural’ label to the product.

Pomegranate

Natural Ingredients


Figure 1 shows a clear increase of oxidative stability of

pomegranate oil and butter at 130°C which can be translated to

an increase of 12-18 times at an ambient temperature of 20°C.

Protection Factors: Pomegranate Oil 2.85, Pomegranate Butter 1.87

Figure 1. Internal Stabilisation of Pomegranate Oil and Butter

Rosa Canina Fruit OilRosehip oil is rich in essential fatty acids, vitamins and

minerals. It has remarkable antioxidant properties and helps

in improving skin elasticity, regenerate skin cells, slow down

premature ageing, reduce the formation of wrinkles and

scarring. It is highly desirable in the use of formulations for

damaged or maturing skin. Figure 2 clearly shows a dramatic

increase in oxidative stability providing extremely high life

extension of the product in question.

Protection Factors: 2.44Figure 2. Internal Stabilisation of Rosa Canina Oil

Karanja OilKaranja oil is obtained from the seeds of Pongam tree and

contains insecticidal and antiseptic properties and is commonly

used in applications such as body oils, lotions, soaps, hair

oils, shampoos, garden care and pet care. Figure 3 reveals

extensive oxidation stability improvement.

Protection Factor: 1.43Figure 3. Internal Stabilisation of Karanja Oil

We have developed a series of fruit butters for wider application

in cosmetics using the above described principles. The results

shown in the following figures (4-6) show the applications

of mild internal stability of the ingredients, which should be

successfully applied in unique cosmetic formulations.

Protection Factors: Cucumber Butter 1.31, Papaya Butter 1.73, Watermelon Butter 1.49

Figure 4. Mild Internal Stabilisation of Cucumber Butter, Papaya Butter and Watermelon Butter

Protection Factors: Kukui Butter 1.22, Walnut Butter 1.68, Macadamia Butter 1.83

Figure 5. Mild Internal Stabilisation of Kukui Butter, Walnut Butter and Macadamia Butter

0.00 h

0.50 h

1.00 h

1.50 h

2.00 h

2.50 h

PomegranateOil

PomegranateOil I.S.

Protection Factors: Pomegranate Oil 2.85Pomegranate Butter 1.87

PomegranateButter

PomegranateButter I.S.

Ran

cim

at H

ours

at

130

°C

0.00 h

1.00 h

2.00 h

3.00 h

4.00 h

5.00 h

6.00 h

Rosa CaninaFruit Oil

Protection Factors: 2.44

Rosa CaninaFruit Oil I.S.

Ran

cim

at H

ours

at

110

°C

0.00 h

4.00 h2.00 h

6.00 h8.00 h

12.00 h10.00 h

14.00 h16.00 h

Karanja

Protection Factor: 1.43

Karanja I.S.

Ran

cim

at H

ours

at

110

°C

0.00 h

1.00 h0.50 h

1.50 h2.00 h

3.00 h2.50 h

3.50 h4.00 h4.50 h5.00 h

Cucu

mbe

r Bu

tter

Cucu

mbe

r Bu

tter I

.S.

Papa

ya

Butte

rPa

paya

Bu

tter I

.S.

Wat

erm

elon

Bu

tter

Wat

erm

elon

Bu

tter I

.S.

Protection Factors: Cucumber Butter 1.31Papaya Butter 1.73Watermelon Butter 1.49

Ran

cim

at H

ours

at

130

°C

0.00 h

1.00 h0.50 h

1.50 h2.00 h

3.00 h2.50 h

3.50 h4.00 h4.50 h

Kuku

i Bu

tter

Kuku

i Bu

tter I

.S.

Wal

nut

Butte

r

Wal

nut

Butte

r I.S

.M

acad

amia

Bu

tter

Mac

adam

ia

Butte

r I.S

.

Protection Factors: Kukui Butter 1.22Walnut Butter 1.68Macadamia Butter 1.83

Ran

cim

at H

ours

at

130

°C

Natural Ingredients


Protection Factors: Oat Butter 2.37, Olive Butter 2.15, Super SPF Butter 7.11

Figure 6. Mild Internal Stabilisation of Oat Butter, Olive Butter and Super SPF Butter

We have successfully applied this technology to a final spray

product based on coconut oil and studied the oxidation

stabilities of the oil and the products at ambient temperature.

These results (Figures 7-9) clearly demonstrate that

our internal stabilisation technology totally arrests oxidation

and thus allows a higher inclusion of lipid materials in

cosmetic formulations. Further work is in progress for

innovative development of new and exotic products for

cosmetic formulations.

ConclusionThis paper clearly elucidates the wider application of spice

and fruit butters and oils for various cosmetic applications.

These new ingredients will provide cosmetic chemists new

avenues of research in formulating beauty products for better

and safe health.

References1. Manay, N.S and M. Shadaksharasway, Foods: Fact and

principles, Wiley Eastern Ltd. New Delhi 1987 p. 153

2. Vijai K. S. Shukla and Kaustuv Bhattacharya, Happi, Dec

2003 p. 91-93

3. Vijai K. S. Shukla and Kaustuv Bhattacharya, Cosmetics

and Toiletries, May 2004 p. 99-104

Authors’ BiographiesProfessor, Dr. Vijai K. S. Shukla is President of International

Food Science Centre A/S and also Adjunct Professor in the

Department of Food Science and Nutrition, at the College of

Food, Agricultural and Natural Resource Science, University of

Minnesota, St. Paul, Minneapolis.

Research interestsProfessor, Dr. Vijai K. S. Shukla is the author of nearly 110

original scientific publications, 12 invited review papers, 15

book chapters in the areas of biochemistry, human nutrition,

cosmeceuticals, neutraceuticals, enzymology, modern analy-

tical techniques for the separation of lipids and proteins. He is

also the editor of six books.

SpecialisationProfessor, Dr. Shukla’s research interests have ranged from

physical phenomena to mechanism of autoxidation, isolation

0.00 h

5.00 h

10.00 h

15.00 h

20.00 h

25.00 hOa

t But

ter

Oat B

utte

r I.S

.

Oliv

e Bu

tter

Oliv

e Bu

tter I

.S.

Supe

r SPF

Bu

tter

Supe

r SPF

Bu

tter I

.S.

Protection Factors: Oat Butter 2.37Olive Butter 2.15Super SPF Butter 7.11

Ran

cim

at H

ours

at

130

°C

0

908070605040302010

0 5 10 15 20Storage Time (Months)

Coconut Oil

Finished Product

25 30 35 40

Pero

xide

Val

ue (m

eq/k

g)

0

14

12

10

86

4

2

0 5 10 15 20Storage Time (Months)

Coconut Oil

Finished Product

25 30 35 40

Ani

sidi

ne V

alue

0

140160180

12010080604020

41 2 3 5Storage Time (Months)

Coconut Oil

Finished Product

6 7 8 9

Toto

x Va

lue

Figure 7. Stability of Finished Cosmetic Product, Peroxide Value

Figure 8. Stability of Finished Cosmetic Product, Anisidine Value

Figure 9. Stability of Finished Cosmetic Product, Totox value

Natural Ingredients


of lipids, spectral phenomena related to lipids, modern

analytical methodology and involvement of essential fatty acids

in health and diseases such as multiple sclerosis and Batten’s

syndrome and he has also shown essential fatty acid deficiency

in multiple sclerosis and Batten’s disease. These were

related with glutathione peroxidase activity and antioxidant

requirements in these diseases. He has also analysed arctic

diet in Greenland Eskimos and compared them with Danes,

elucidating some of the mechanism of coronary heart diseases

in these population groups. In his research work Professor,

Dr. Shukla employs modern analytical methodology in order to

resolve various scientific problems.

Accomplishments in Industrial Applications

Professor, Dr Vijai K. S. Shukla has been working in the

area of confectionery product development for the last three

decades. He has a special expertise in cocoa butter, milk fat,

cocoa butter equivalents and cocoa butter substitutes based

on modern concepts of recipe engineering. He has always

applied scientific principles to upgrade or modify existing

production to achieve super quality products. Some of his

major achievements are as follows: during 1996 Professor, Dr.

Shukla established a brand new refinery in The Netherlands

and has successfully demonstrated that total oxidation in bulk

oils can be completely arrested and that speciality fats delivered

to the customers will be of extremely fresh quality. These

deliveries were in the scale of 500-1000 MT per shipment. A

proper research approach clearly shows that it is possible to

provide uplift to large scale production through extreme care,

taking the help of nitrogen as inert gas and stainless steel in

the production system. A number of international press articles

presented these developments.

For the last two decades Professor, Dr. Shukla’s research has

focused on the quality of encapsulated fish and vegetable

oils. He has successfully demonstrated that it is possible

to produce ultra refined fish oil with extreme low peroxide

value and anisidine value. This oil is already in commercial

production. Having produced the above mentioned oils it

is of the utmost importance to keep these oxidation values

extremely low, therefore he has designed several natural

antioxidant systems for general nutrition as well as cosmetic

oils. This natural antioxidant system is 50 to 60 times more

powerful than existing available antioxidants. He has recently

developed a novel designer oil called Nutridan containing very

high amounts of essential polyunsaturated fatty acids. The oils

used are of vegetable origin and extracted by physical means

and are thus totally solvent free. Nutridan provides not only

balanced essential fatty acids but also a high dosage of natural

antioxidants which are extremely beneficial for better health.

Extraordinary Achievements

Professor, Dr Vijai K. S. Shukla has appeared in: Who’s Who

in the World, 12th edition 1995-96; 2000 Outstanding

Scientists of the World; 2000 Outstanding Intellectuals of the

20th Century; The Barons 500 Leaders for the new Century;

The Cambridge Blue Book 2005. In 1996 he was awarded

the American Oil Chemists’ Society (AOCS) prestigious Herbert

Dutton Award for pioneering contribution in Lipid research

presented in Indianapolis. The title of the award lecture was

‘Chocolate - The Chemistry of Pleasure. In 2002 he received the

American Oil Chemists’ Society prestigious Stephen S. Chang

Award presented in Montréal, Canada. The title of the award

lecture was ‘Chocolate – Friend or Foe?’ This award is given to a

scientist who has achieved decisive accomplishments in basic

research and the knowledge that the person has produced

must have been utilised by industries for the improvement or

development of food products related to lipids. And in 2005 he

was made an AOCS Fellow in recognition of his achievements

in science and appreciation for significant service to the AOCS.

E-Mail: [email protected]

Mr Søren Nielsen studied at Odense University Hospital, Odense,

Denmark. He is a Research and Development Technician at

ICSC. He specialises in product innovation, technology of fats,

analytical evaluation and recipe engineering programmes. He

also specialises in refining technologies of oils and fats and he

has more than 30 years of experience in lipid research.

Natural Ingredients


AbstractFood plays a pivotal role in the wellbeing of humans. Food is a

strong medicine if consumed in proper quantities. We always

advocate for the cosmetic industry the famous slogan ‘It´s

what you eat, it´s what you should apply’.

This paper reveals our research into the ‘magic’ properties of

spices for providing powerful cosmetic formulations

IntroductionFood is the most basic prerequisite of living organisms. It

contributes towards building the body, providing energy for

living and working and regulating the mechanisms essential

for health and the survival of life. Food thus constitutes the

foundation for the health of both humans and animals.

Food and nutrition have long been discussed in the context

of how certain dietary components may modulate oxidative

stress and inflammation. Medicines and foods have a common

origin. Modern science, however, is a common starting point

for providing real evidence of this very concept.

Harmony of mind, body and spirit are hinged on a balance of

free radicals and oxidants (created by the products of oxygen

molecules) and antioxidants, which protect our cell membranes

throughout the body. Illness occurs when we are in a state of

deficiency. Thus nutritional lifestyle and environmental choices

must be balanced to maintain our antioxidant status account.

The history of the use of aromatic oils on the body goes back at

least 2,000 years before Christ. There are records in the Bible

about the use of plants and their oils, both in the treatment of

illness and for religious purposes. The Egyptians used them

widely, both as cosmetics and for embalming their dead, in order

to delay decomposition. These oils were known in China perhaps

even before that time and then their use gradually spread to the

Greeks and Romans, who of course brought the idea to Europe.

We have successfully demonstrated the application of rosemary

in stabilising the oils and butters in cosmetic formulations.

Enhancing the Value of Cosmeceuticals Through Internally Stabilised Spice FormulationsAuthors: Prof. Dr. Vijai K.S. Shukla and Søren Nielsen, International Cosmetic Science Centre ApS, Lystrup, Denmark.

The main antioxidative effects of rosemary extracts come from

three phenolic components namely carnosic acid, carnosol and

rosmarinic acid, of which over 90% of the antioxidant activity

is from carnosic acid and carnosol. Flavonoids, particularly

flavones, have been identified in rosemary extracts.

Apart from the antioxidant activity, there are mentions of

antimicrobial, antiviral, antimutagenic activities of rosemary

extracts. Until we developed the method of internal stabilisation,

the most common way of avoiding oxidation was the external

addition by simple mixing of antioxidants to the oils and butters.

Such additions often required heating, homogenisations, extra

labour and handling of powders. All of these can be now

successfully avoided through internally stabilised oils. Our

research has proven that internal stabilisation of exotic butters

and natural oils enhances oxidative stability many-fold.

This paper describes the application of various spice oils in expanding

research of internal stabilisation in testing various products.

Method of AnalysisOil stability index (GSI) was determined as a tool for judging oxidation stability. The instrument chosen for determining OSI was a Rancimat 743. The principle of Rancimat analysis depends on the measurement of the increase of electrical conductivity by the volatile carboxylic acids generated in the oxidising oil sample. The temperature was varied between 90°C and 110°C respectively. The air in-flow was continuously maintained at 18 litres/hour and the sample size was 3 + 0.05 gram.

Natural Ingredients


Essential Oils 1000ppm

Figure 2. Rancimat Hours at 110°C for the Carrier Oil Before and After Adding 1,000 ppm of Sage Oil, Clove Oil and Cinnamon Oil

The test oil was flaxseed, as this is a highly unsaturated oil and

all the spice oils were procured locally.

Results and DiscussionsThe data obtained from the Rancimat tests were plotted as a

function of time to obtain bar diagrams which show the relative

increase of oxidative stability for each of the test samples.

In our experimental design, we used flaxseed oil internally

stabilised with rosemary as described in our previously published

studies(1-3). The standard addition of all spice oils was limited to

1,000 ppm and then the added oil was deodorised and the

Rancimat runs were performed at various temperatures.

Figure 1 depicts the result of measurements employing

cinnamon, fennel, clove and ginger at 90°C. These results

clearly show excellent reproducibility and extreme synergy

in enhancing the life cycle of the oil. These results were

performed at 110°C and the data presented in Figure 2

conforms to the earlier experiment.

Figure 3 shows the result of the addition of 1,000 ppm of

fennel, cinnamon, clove, lavender and ginger at 130°C. This

further confirms the boosting effect of the addition of spice oils.

In further experiments we tried to externally add 1,000 ppm and

10,000 ppm of clove oil and compare it with the deodorised

process. The result shown in Figure 4 clearly explains the

remarkable shelf life extension during deodorisation.

020406080100120140160180

Flax

seed

Bla

nk

Flax

seed

Deo

doris

edCa

rrie

r Oil

Carrie

r Oil

Cinn

amon

Fenn

el

Clov

e

Ginge

r

Ran

cim

at H

ours

at

90ºC

5.2 9.0

105.5112.1

135.5 145.8

154.7 167.5

PF.

: 21.6

S

L.:

97.0

PF.

: 26.1

S

L.:

117.3

PF.

: 28.0

S

L.:

126.2

PF.

: 29.8

S

L.:

133.9

PF.

: 32.2

S

L.:

145.0

PF.

: 20.3

S

L.:

91.3

1.07

6.64

6.97

5.58

7.28

7.53

8.79

8.86

012345678910

Flax

seed

bla

nkCa

rrie

r Oil

no d

eodo

Carr

ier Oil

Sage

Clov

e

Clov

eCi

nnam

onCi

nnam

on

Ran

cim

at H

ours

at

110ºC

PF.

: 6,5

S

L.:

35,8

PF.

: 5,2

S

L.: 28,7

PF.

: 7,0

S

L.:

38,7

PF.

: 8,2

S

L.:

45,2

PF.

: 8,3

S

L.:

45,5

SL.

: 37,4

SL.

: 34,1

PF.

: 6,8

PF.

: 6,2

Essential Oils 1000ppmFigure 1. Rancimat Hours at 90°C for the Flaxseed Oil Before and

After Deodorisation and the Reproducibility for the Carrier Oil. It also Shows the Effect of Adding 1,000 ppm of Cinnamon Oil, Fennel Oil,

Clove Oil and Ginger Oil

Clove Oil and Thyme Oil 1000ppm Figure 4. The Difference in Rancimat Hours at 100°C for the Adding

of 1,000 ppm and 10,000 ppm and Internally Stabilising with 1,000 ppm Clove Oil and Thyme Oil

1.83

7.09

2.48 2.56

23.3326.07 26.64 26.79

0

5

10

15

20

25

30

Flax

seed

Bla

nkFl

axse

ed d

eodo

rised

Flax

seed

Clo

ve O

ilFl

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ed C

love

Oil

Carr

ior Oil

Thym

e Oil

Clov

e Oil

Clov

e Oil

Ran

cim

at H

ours

at

100ºC

Pf:

12,7

S

hel

f lif

e ex

: 63,7

Pf:

14,6

S

hel

f lif

e e

x: 7

3,2

Pf:

14,2

S

hel

f lif

e ex

: 71,2

Pf:

14,6

S

hel

f lif

e ex

: 72,8

0.54 0.55

3.80

5.535.95 5.99

6.99 7.33

0

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

Flaxse

ed

Blank Flax

seed

deodoris

edCarr

ier Oil

Fennel

Cinnamon

Clove

Lavender

Ginger

Ran

cim

at H

ours

at

130ºC

PF.

: 7,0

S

L.: 45,7

PF.

: 10,2

S

L.: 66,6

PF.

: 11,1

SL.

: 71,1

PF.

: 12,9

SL.

: 84,1

PF.

: 13,6

SL.

: 88,2

PF.

: 11,0

SL.

: 71,6


Figure 3. Rancimat Hours at 130°C for the Carrier Oil Before and After Adding 1,000 ppm of Fennel Oil, Cinnamon Oil, Clove Oil,

Lavender Oil and Ginger Oil

Natural Ingredients


Figure 5 presents the data of extremely high reproducibility of carrier oil thyme and clove oil at 100°C. We tried a range of different oils and the data presented in Figure 6 shows the extreme superiority of oregano as compared to the other oils.

In order to test the linearity of the addition of oregano oil at 1,000, 2,000 and 5,000 ppm, we tested these oils at 110°C and these results (Figure 7) show a good effect in higher concentrations but 1,000 ppm will be the best addition in order to achieve the desired result. The results presented in Figure 8 show similar conclusions. Figure 9 shows the Rancimat Hours at 110°C for a range of other essential oils.

The protection factors of the various oils studied at 110°C are presented in Figures 10 and 11 respectively (see next page). These results, once again, confirm that oregano oil is the most powerful antioxidant in connection with rosemary, followed by sage and other oils.

1.70 0,00

5,00

10,00

15,00

20,00

25,00

30,00

Flax

seed

bla

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Flax

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Rac

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Pf:

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hel

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: 69,3

26.02

Pf:

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: 76,5

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22.98

Pf:

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hel

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26.89

Pf:

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S

hel

f lif

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: 79,1

26.44

Pf:

15,6

S

hel

f lif

e ex

: 77,8

5.12

Pf:

3,0

S

L: 1

5,1

Clove Oil and Thyme Oil 1000ppm Figure 5. Reproducibility of the Rancimat Hours at 100°C

0.95

6.97

6.73

7.38

7.57

8.39

9.75 10.33

0

2

4

6

8

10

12

Ran

cim

at H

ours

at

110ºC

PF.

: 7,1

SL.

: 39,0

PF.

: 7,8

SL.

: 42,7

PF.

: 8,8

SL.

: 48,6

PF.

: 10,3

SL.

: 56,4

PF.

: 10,9

SL.

: 59,8

PF.

: 8,0

SL.

: 43,8

PF.

: 7

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SL.

: 4

0,4

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seed

Blank

Carrier O

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Essential Oils 1000ppm Figure 6. The Effect on Rancimat Hours at 110°C of the Addition of

1,000 ppm of Various Essential Oils

0.75

5,26.7.02

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9.63

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0

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8

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Carrier O

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Carrier O

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pm

Orega

no 5

000p

pm

Ran

cim

at H

ours

at

110ºC

PF.

: 9,4

SL.

: 51,5

PF.

: 9,7

SL.

: 53,2

PF.

: 12,5

SL.

: 68,7

PF.

: 12.8

SL.

: 70,6

PF.

: 13,1

SL.

: 72,3

SL.

: 61,3

PF.

: 7,0

SL.

: 38,6

PF.

: 11,1

Sage and Oregano Oil

Figure 7. The Effect on Rancimat Hours at 110°C of the Addition of Increasing Amounts of Oregano Oil

1.06

4.98

7.32

7.38 8.28

9.66

10.04

10.28

0

2

4

6

8

10

12

Flax

seed

Blank

Carrie

r Oil

Carrie

r Oil

deod

o

Orega

no 1

000p

pmSa

ge 1

000p

pm

Orega

no 5

000p

pmSa

ge 5

000p

pmSa

ge 5

000p

pm

Ran

cim

at H

ours

at

110ºC

PF.

: 7,0

SL.

: 38,3

PF.

: 9,1

1

SL.

: 50,1

PF.

: 9,5

S

L.: 52,1

PF.

: 9

,7

SL.

: 53,3

PF.

: 7,8

S

L.: 43,0

Sage and Oregano Oil

Figure 8. The Reproduction of the Tests Described in Figure 7


Figure 9. The Effect on Rancimat Hours at 110°C of the Addition of 1,000 ppm of Various Essential Oils

0.96

5.16

4.01

7.35

8.5 8.63 8.86 8.95

0

12

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

Flax

seed

Bla

nkCa

rrier O

ilVa

leria

n Oil

Thym

e Oil

Ylan

g Yl

ang

Bitte

r Ora

nge

Pepp

er O

ilTe

a Tr

ee O

il

Ran

cim

at H

ours

at

110ºC

PF.: 4

,2

SL.: 2

3,0

PF.: 7

,7

SL.: 4

2,1

PF.: 9

,0

SL.: 4

9,4

PF.: 9

,2

SL.: 5

0,8

PF.: 9

,3

SL.: 5

1,3

PF.:

8,9

S

L.:

48,7

PF.: 5

,4

SL.: 2

9,6

CST 2013 ICSC_FINAL_Anns.indd 59 01/05/2013 13:17

Natural Ingredients


ConclusionThis paper clearly defines the strong antioxidant properties

of various spice oils. This opens a new avenue of cosmetic

formulations employing natural components, thus providing

the following benefits:

• Prolonged shelf life of the cosmetic formulations

• Stronger antioxidant properties compared to natural tocopherols

• No need to add antioxidants in the formulation of the cosmetic product

• Adds a more ‘natural’ clean label to the product.

References1. Vijai K. S. Shukla and Kaustuv Bhattacharya, Happi, Dec

2003 p. 91-932. Vijai K. S. Shukla and Kaustuv Bhattacharya, Cosmetics

and Toiletries, May 2004 p. 99-104

0

4.1

5.2

6.8

6.8

7

7.1

7.5

7.7

7.8

8 8

.2 8.3 8

.8 8.9 9 9.2 9.3 9.7 1

0.3

10.9

11.1

12.5 12.8

13.1

0

2

4

6

8

10

12

14

Pro

tect

ion F

acto

r

Flax

seed

Bla

nkVa

leri

an O

ilSag

eC

arri

er O

il u/

deso

Clo

veC

love

Lem

ongr

ass

Car

rier

Oil

m/d

eso

Thym

e O

ilLa

vend

erFe

nnel

Cin

nam

onC

inna

mon

Gin

ger

Ylan

g Yl

ang

Bitte

r O

rang

ePe

pper

Oil

Tea

Tree

Oil

Ore

gano

Ora

nge

Ore

gano

Sag

e O

il

Ore

gano

200

0ppm

Ore

gano

500

0ppm

Ore

gano

500

0ppm

Essential Oils 110ºCFigure 11. A Comparison of the Protection Factors of Various Essential Oils

0.93

8.63 8.86

7.53 7.57 8.39

7.38 6.73

9.75 10.33

8.86 8.36

8.95

7.35

4.01

8.5

2

4

6

8

10

12

Pro

tect

ion F

acto

r

Flax

seed

Bla

nk

Vale

rian

Oil

Clo

ve

Lem

ongr

ass

Thym

e O

il

Lave

nder

Fenn

el

Cin

nam

on

Gin

ger

Ylan

g Yl

ang

Bitte

r O

rang

e

Pepp

er O

il

Tea

Tree

Oil

Ore

gano

Ora

nge

Sag

e O

il

Essential Oils 1000ppm Figure 10. A Comparison of the Effect on Rancimat Hours at 110°C of Adding 1,000 ppm of Various Essential Oils

Natural Ingredients


3. Vijai K. S. Shukla and Søren Nielsen, Cosmetic Science Technology 2012, p. 43-48

Authors’ BiographiesProfessor, Dr. Vijai K. S. Shukla is President of International

Food Science Centre ApS and also Adjunct Professor in the

Department of Food Science and Nutrition, at the College of

Food, Agricultural and Natural Resource Science, University of

Minnesota, St. Paul, Minneapolis.

Research interestsProfessor, Dr. Vijai K. S. Shukla is the author of nearly 110 original

scientific publications, 12 invited review papers, 15 book chapters

in the areas of biochemistry, human nutrition, cosmeceuticals,

neutraceuticals, enzymology, modern analytical techniques for the

separation of lipids and proteins. He is also the editor of six books.

SpecialisationProfessor, Dr. Shukla’s research interests have ranged from

physical phenomena to mechanism of autoxidation, isolation of

lipids, spectral phenomena related to lipids, modern analytical

methodology and involvement of essential fatty acids in health

and diseases such as multiple sclerosis and Batten’s syndrome

and he has also shown essential fatty acid deficiency in multiple

sclerosis and Batten’s disease. These were related with glutathione

peroxidase activity and antioxidant requirements in these diseases.

He has also analysed arctic diet in Greenland Eskimos and

compared them with Danes, elucidating some of the mechanism

of coronary heart diseases in these population groups. In his

research work Professor, Dr. Shukla employs modern analytical

methodology in order to resolve various scientific problems.

Accomplishments in Industrial Applications Professor, Dr Vijai K. S. Shukla has been working in the area

of confectionery product development for the last three decades.

He has a special expertise in cocoa butter, milk fat, cocoa butter

equivalents and cocoa butter substitutes based on modern

concepts of recipe engineering. He has always applied scientific

principles to upgrade or modify existing production to achieve

super quality products. Some of his major achievements are

as follows: during 1996 Professor, Dr. Shukla established a

brand new refinery in The Netherlands and has successfully

demonstrated that total oxidation in bulk oils can be completely

arrested and that speciality fats delivered to the customers will

be of extremely fresh quality. These deliveries were in the scale of

500-1000 MT per shipment. A proper research approach clearly

shows that it is possible to provide uplift to large scale production

through extreme care, taking the help of nitrogen as inert gas and

stainless steel in the production system. A number of international

press articles presented these developments.

For the last two decades Professor, Dr. Shukla’s research has

focused on the quality of encapsulated fish and vegetable oils. He

has successfully demonstrated that it is possible to produce ultra

refined fish oil with extreme low peroxide value and anisidine value.

This oil is already in commercial production. Having produced

the above mentioned oils it is of the utmost importance to keep

these oxidation values extremely low, therefore he has designed

several natural antioxidant systems for general nutrition as well as

cosmetic oils. This natural antioxidant system is 50 to 60 times

more powerful than existing available antioxidants. He has recently

developed a novel designer oil called Nutridan containing very high

amounts of essential polyunsaturated fatty acids. The oils used are

of vegetable origin and extracted by physical means and are thus

totally solvent free. Nutridan provides not only balanced essential

fatty acids but also a high dosage of natural antioxidants which are

extremely beneficial for better health.

Extraordinary AchievementsProfessor, Dr Vijai K. S. Shukla has appeared in: Who’s Who in

the World, 12th edition 1995-96; 2000 Outstanding Scientists

of the World; 2000 Outstanding Intellectuals of the 20th Century;

The Barons 500 Leaders for the new Century; The Cambridge Blue

Book 2005. In 1996 he was awarded the American Oil Chemists’

Society (AOCS) prestigious Herbert Dutton Award for pioneering

contribution in Lipid research presented in Indianapolis. The title of

the award lecture was ‘Chocolate - The Chemistry of Pleasure. In

2002 he received the American Oil Chemists’ Society prestigious

Stephen S. Chang Award presented in Montréal, Canada. The title

of the award lecture was ‘Chocolate – Friend or Foe?’ This award

is given to a scientist who has achieved decisive accomplishments

in basic research and the knowledge that the person has produced

must have been utilised by industries for the improvement or

development of food products related to lipids. And in 2005 he

was made an AOCS Fellow in recognition of his achievements

in science and appreciation for significant service to the AOCS.

E-Mail: [email protected]

Mr Søren Nielsen studied at Odense University Hospital, Odense,

Denmark. He is a Research and Development Technician at ICSC.

He specialises in product innovation, technology of fats, analytical

evaluation and recipe engineering programmes. He also specialises

in refining technologies of oils and fats and he has more than 30

years of experience in lipid research.

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