ProChef HE Version Blad - Issuu

the professional chefninth edition

The Culinary Institute of America

contentsAcknowledgmentsIntroduction

PART ONE the culinary professional1 INTRODUCTION TO THE PROFESSION

2 MENUS AND RECIPES

3 THE BASICS OF NUTRITION AND FOOD SCIENCE

4 FOOD AND KITCHEN SAFETY

PART TWO tools and ingredients in the professional kitchen5 EQUIPMENT IDENTIFICATION

6 MEAT, POULTRY, AND GAME IDENTIFICATION

7 FISH AND SHELLFISH IDENTIFICATION

8 FRUIT, VEGETABLE, AND FRESH HERB IDENTIFICATION

9 DAIRY AND EGG PURCHASING AND IDENTIFICATION

10 DRY GOODS IDENTIFICATION

PART THREE stocks, sauces, and soups 11 MISE EN PLACE FOR STOCKS, SAUCES,

AND SOUPS

12 STOCKS

13 SAUCES

14 SOUPS

PART FOUR meats, poultry, fish, and shellfish15 MISE EN PLACE FOR MEATS, POULTRY,

AND FISH

16 FABRICATING MEATS, POULTRY, AND FISH

17 GRILLING AND BROILING, ROASTING AND BAKING

18 SAUTÉING, PAN FRYING, AND DEEP FRYING

19 STEAMING AND SUBMERSION COOKING

20 BRAISING AND STEWING

PART FIVE vegetables, potatoes, grains and legumes, and pasta and dumplings21 MISE EN PLACE FOR VEGETABLES AND

FRESH HERBS

22 COOKING VEGETABLES

23 COOKING POTATOES

24 COOKING GRAINS AND LEGUMES

25 COOKING PASTA AND DUMPLINGS

PART SIX breakfast and garde manger26 COOKING EGGS

27 SALAD DRESSINGS AND SALADS

28 SANDWICHES

29 HORS D’OEUVRE AND APPETIZERS

30 CHARCUTERIE AND GARDE MANGER

PART SEVEN baking and pastry31 BAKING MISE EN PLACE

32 YEAST BREADS

33 PASTRY DOUGHS AND BATTERS

34 CUSTARDS, CREAMS, AND MOUSSES

35 FILLINGS, FROSTINGS, AND DESSERT SAUCES

36 PLATED DESSERTS

AppendixGlossaryReadings and ResourcesRecipe IndexSubject Index

sautéing, pan frying, and deep frying

The cooking techniques presented in this chapter rely on a fat or oil as the cooking medium. As the amount of fat varies from a thin film to enough to completely submerge foods, different effects are achieved.

chapter 18

2 MEATS, POULTRY, FISH, AND SHELLFISH

Sautéing is a technique that cooks food rapidly in a little fat over relatively high heat. Certain menu items listed as seared/pan-seared, charred/pan-charred, or pan-broiled are essentially sautéed. (Those terms have come to suggest that even less oil is used than for a traditional sauté.) Sautéed dishes typically include a sauce made with the drippings (fond) left in the pan, and are cooked in an à la minute or “just in time” fashion.

Searing may be a first step for some roasted, braised, or stewed foods; they are cooked quickly in a small amount of oil over direct heat. The difference between searing and sauté-ing is not how the technique is performed, but that those foods are not cooked completely as a result. Searing is used with those cooking methods as an effective way to develop flavor and color in conjunction with longer, slower cooking.

Stir-frying, associated with Asian cooking and successfully adapted by innovative Western chefs, shares many similarities with sautéing. Foods are customarily cut into small pieces—usually strips, dice, or shreds—and cooked rapidly in a little oil. They are added to the pan in sequence; those requiring the longest cooking times are added first, those that cook quickly only at the last moment. The sauce for a stir-fry, like that of a sauté, is made or finished in the pan to capture the dish’s entire flavor. Typically, a thin-walled wok is used for a stir-fry while a sauté pan is used in the sautéing method.

Choose cuts for sautés of beef, veal, lamb, pork, and large game animals from the rib or loin, and some portions of the leg. These cuts are the most tender. Poultry and game bird breasts are often preferred for sautéing. Firm or moderately textured fish are easier to sau-té than very delicate fish. Shellfish, in and out of the shell, also sauté well. Select the cooking fat according to the flavor you want to create, food cost, availability, and smoke point.

The base for a pan sauce for a sauté may vary to suit the flavor of the main item. Brown sauces such as demi-glace or jus lié, veloutés, reduced stocks (thickened with a slurry if necessary), vegetable coulis, or tomato sauce may be used. Consult specific recipes.

A sauté pan (also called a sauteuse) has short, sloped sides and is wider than it is tallto encourage rapid evaporation. It is made of a metal that responds quickly to rapid heat changes. Woks are used to prepare stir fries. Pan-seared and pan-broiled items are often prepared in heavy-gauge pans that retain heat, such as cast-iron skillets.

Have tongs or spatulas available to turn foods and remove them from the pan, holding pans to reserve foods while a sauce is prepared or finished, and all appropriate service items (heated plates, garnishes, and accompaniments).

sautéing

chapter 18 » SAUTÉING, PAN FRYING, AND DEEP FRYING 3

Sautéing(1 entrée portion)

1 boneless portion (6 to 8 oz/170 to 227 g meat, poultry, or seafood (adjust portion size to account for bones, skin, or shells)

Small amount of cooking fat or oil

Salt and pepper, plus other seasoning as required

Aromatics and/or garnishes, for the pan sauce

2 tbsp/30 mL liquid, for deglazing the pan

2 fl oz/60 mL prepared sauce base, as appropriate

Finishing ingredients, as appropriate

Sautéing1. Sauté the item on both

sides in a hot pan and hot oil until properly browned.

2. Remove the main item and finish it in an oven, if necessary.

3. Deglaze the pan.4. Add the liquid for the

sauce.5. Reduce the sauce.6. Add the finishing

ingredients (except butter), if appropriate.

7. Adjust seasoning to taste.8. Return the main item to

the pan to reheat it, if necessary.

9. Monte au beurre, if desired.

expert tips

To develop additional flavor, season the item with additional ingredients prior to sautéing:

MARINADES / SPICE RUBS / DRIED SPICES

Depending on the desired result, adding additional ingredients after sautéing can further develop the flavor of the item:

MELTED BUTTER / SAUCES / GLAZES

For a healthier option: Use healthier fats such as olive oil to cook the main item.

» basic formula

»Stir-frying1. Heat the oil in a wok or

large sauté pan.2. Add the main item.3. Stir-fry, keeping the food

in constant motion.4. Add additional

ingredients, including aromatics, in the proper sequence (longest-cooking first, shortest-cooking last).

5. Add the liquid for the sauce; add the thickener.

6. Serve the food immediately.

sautéing

method at-a-glance »

1. season the food with salt and pepper, as well as spice blends or rubs if appropriate, just before cooking, to build flavor into the dish. Seasoning before cooking is more effective than adding salt and pepper at the end. Dusting is optional. Flour will help to absorb excess moisture and prevent the item from sticking to the pan, and will produce a good surface color for light or white meats, poultry, and fish. If done, be sure to coat the item evenly and shake off any excess.

Select a pan of the appropriate size; it should be large enough so that all pieces of the main item will just cover the bottom of the pan without overlapping.

Heat the pan before adding the fat; this is referred to as conditioning the pan. Add enough fat to lightly film the pan, adjusting the amount to suit the food and the pan’s size and surface as well as the item to be cooked. The more natural marbling or fat present in the food, the less fat you need in the pan. Well-seasoned or nonstick pans may not require any fat beyond that which is already pres-ent in the food. Bring the pan and the cooking fat to the correct temperature before adding the food.

2. turn sautéed foods only once to develop good flavor and color. Each time the meat is turned, the temperature of the meat and pan drops. Sau-téed foods are also usually turned only once so that the fond can develop in the pan. More frequent turning can disturb this process, although there are exceptions. Sau-téed shrimp or meat cut into émincé, for example, may be repeatedly tossed or turned.

Adjust the heat under the sauté pan if necessary to complete cooking on the stovetop. In some cases, sau-téed food may be finished in the oven, either in the sauté pan or in a baking dish, sizzler platter, or sheet pan.

Proper doneness in sautéed foods depends upon the food itself, safe food handling, and customer preference. Be sure to allow for some carryover cooking so that foods are not overdone by the time you are ready to put them on a plate. For more information, review General Guidelines for Determining Doneness (see page xxx). Remove the food from the pan when it is done and transfer the sau-téed items to a warm holding area while preparing a sauce directly in the pan.

method in detail »


3. add a liquid like stock or wine to release the browned drippings, or fond, and to give the sauce a deep and customized flavor. To make a sauce incorporat-ing the fond in the sauté pan, first remove any excess fat. Add aromatic ingredients or garnish items that need to be cooked. Then deglaze the pan, releasing the reduced drippings. Wine, stock, or broth are commonly used for this step.

4. reduce wine or stock until nearly dry (au sec). The sauce base (such as a separately pre-pared sauce, jus lié, reduced stock, or vegetable purée or coulis) should be added to the pan and brought to a simmer. Cream, if called for, should be added along with the sauce base so that it can reduce properly along with the base. Some sauces may need to be thickened before they are served; if so, add a small amount of a pure starch slurry until the correct consistency is reached.

5. finish and garnish a pan sauce in one of several ways. It may be strained through a fine-mesh strainer for a very smooth texture before adding any fin-ishing or garnishing ingredients. Simmer finishing and gar-nishing ingredients in the sauce long enough for them to be properly heated. Adjust seasoning with salt, pepper, fresh herbs, juices, essences, purées, or similar items. After a final check to be sure the seasoning is correct, chefs often opt to return the main item (a chicken breast or veal scal-lop, for example) to the finished sauce briefly to coat and gently reheat it. If desired, a small amount of whole but-ter may be added just before serving (monter au beurre) to add both flavor and body. The sauce may be ladled in a pool on the plate and the food set on top, or the sauce may be ladled over the food (nappé) or ladled around the food (cordon). Be sure to wipe away any drips on the plate with a clean cloth wrung out in hot water before the plate is sent to the dining room.

Evaluate the quality of the finished sautéed food. The object of sautéing is to produce a flavorful exterior through proper browning, which serves to intensify the food’s flavor. Weak flavor and color indicate that the food was sautéed at too low a temperature or that the pan was too crowded. “Good color” depends on the type of food.


sautéing

Ancho-Crusted Salmon with Yellow Pepper Sauce, Stewed Black Beans, and Yellow Squash Noodles


sautéing, pan frying, and deep frying recipesYellow Pepper SauceMakes 32 fl oz/960 mL

2 tbsp/30 mL olive oil

12 oz/340 g sliced onion

1 tsp/3 g sliced garlic

1 lb 8 oz/680 g yellow peppers, seeded and chopped

5 oz/142 g chopped fennel

One 2-in/5-cm cinnamon stick1⁄4 tsp/0.50 g ground allspice

11⁄2 tsp/3 g dried epazote3⁄4 oz/21 g sugar

8 fl oz/240 mL water

3 oz/85 g tomatillos, quartered

2 tbsp/30 mL lime juice, or as needed

Salt, as needed

1. Heat the oil in a heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high heat. Add the onions and garlic and cook until translucent, about 8 minutes.

2. Add the peppers, fennel, cinnamon, allspice, epazote, sugar, and water.

3. Cover the pot and simmer on low heat until the peppers are soft, about 25 minutes.

4. Transfer the mixture to a blender and purée with the tomatillos until very smooth. Strain through a large-holed strainer.

5. Season with the lime juice and salt. The sauce is ready to serve now, or may be rapidly cooled and refrigerated for later use.

Ancho-Crusted Salmon with Yellow Pepper SauceMakes 10 servings

2 ancho chiles

1 tbsp/6 g cumin seeds

1 tbsp/6 g fennel seeds

41⁄2 tsp/7.50 g coriander seeds

1 tbsp/6 g black peppercorns

1 tbsp/6 g dried thyme

1 tbsp/6 g dried oregano

11⁄2 oz/43 g salt

1 tbsp/6 g dry mustard

3 lb 12 oz/1.70 kg salmon fillet, cut into ten 6-oz/170-g portions

3 tbsp/45 mL clarified butter or oil

20 fl oz/600 mL Yellow Pepper Sauce (recipe follows)

1. Remove and discard the stems and seeds from the chiles. Roughly chop the chiles.

2. Toast the chiles, cumin, fennel, and coriander seeds on a sheet pan in a 300°F/149°C oven until fragrant, about 5 minutes. Remove and cool to room tempera-ture.

3. Combine the toasted spices with the peppercorns, thyme, and oregano in a spice grinder. Grind to a coarse powder. Stir in the salt and dry mustard.

4. Lightly coat each portion of salmon with the spice crust. Heat the butter in a large sauté pan over medi-um-high heat. Sauté the salmon on the presentation side until the spices start to brown, 1 to 2 minutes.

5. Flip the salmon over and cook over medium heat or in a 350°F/177°C oven for 4 to 6 minutes (depending on thickness of cut), until desired doneness.

6. Serve immediately with the sauce or hold hot for service.


Country GravyMakes 32 fl oz/960 mL

3 oz/85 g minced slab bacon, rind removed

2 fl oz/60 mL clarified butter

8 oz/227 g minced onion

2 oz/57 g minced celery

11⁄2 tsp/4.50 g minced garlic

21⁄2 oz/71 g all-purpose flour

11⁄2 qt/1.44 L Chicken Stock (page xxx)

16 oz/454 g chicken wings, browned

1 bay leaf

Salt, as needed

Freshly ground black pepper, as needed

4 fl oz/120 mL heavy cream

1. Render the bacon in the butter over medium-low heat until crisp, about 8 minutes.

2. Add the onions, celery, and garlic, and sweat until the onions are translucent, 4 to 6 minutes.

3. Stir in the flour and cook over medium heat to make a pale roux.

4. Add the stock, wings, and bay leaf. Season with salt and pepper.

5. Simmer the gravy until good flavor and consistency develop, 1½ to 2 hours, skimming as necessary. Add the cream and return the gravy to a simmer.

6. Strain the gravy. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.

7. The gravy is ready to serve now, or may be rapidly cooled and refrigerated for later use.

Buttermilk Fried ChickenMakes 10 servings

Four 3 lb 8–oz/1.59-kg chickens, cut into 10 pieces each

16 fl oz/480 mL buttermilk

4 tbsp/12 g minced tarragon

4 fl oz/120 mL Dijon mustard

11⁄2 tsp/2 g poultry seasoning

4 tbsp/40 g salt

2 lb/907 g all-purpose flour

11⁄2 tsp/3 g cayenne1⁄2 oz/14 g Old Bay seasoning

4 lb/1.81 kg peanut oil, or as needed

20 fl oz/600 mL Country Gravy (recipe follows)

1. Combine the chicken pieces with the buttermilk, tarragon, mustard, poultry seasoning, and 2 tbsp/20 g salt. Mix well and marinate, covered, in the refrig-erator overnight.

2. Combine the flour with the cayenne, Old Bay, and remaining salt. Mix well.

3. Drain the chicken and discard the marinade. Dredge in the flour and let sit for at least 30 minutes on a wire rack.

4. Heat the oil in a 12-in/30-cm cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat.Dredge the chicken in the flour again. When the oil reaches 350ºF/175ºC, pan fry the chicken in batches until golden brown on both sides, about 15 minutes.

5. Finish the chicken on a roasting rack placed over a sheet pan in a 350°F/177°C oven until it reaches an internal temperature of 180°F/82°C.

6. Drain the chicken briefly on paper towels and serve immediately with the country gravy or hold hot for service.

Buttermilk Fried Chicken with Country Chicken Gravy, Whipped Potatoes, and Braised Collards

10 TOOLS AND INGREDIENTS IN THE PROFESSIONAL KITCHEN

tomatoes This universal vegetable is actually a fruit. It is grown in hundreds of varieties, in colors from green to yellow to bright red to purple. Basic types in-clude small, round cherry tomatoes; oblong plum toma-toes; and large standard tomatoes. All are available in various colors. All have smooth, shiny skin, juicy flesh, and small, edible seeds. Most tomatoes grown commer-cially are picked unripe and allowed to ripen in transit, though many chefs prefer to find locally grown varieties that are ripened on the vine. There has been a recent surge in demand for the heirloom species, such as the Cherokee Purple and Green Zebra.

Select brightly colored tomatoes, free of soft spots and blemishes. They should be heavy for their size, but not overly firm. Tomatoes should not be refrigerated because the cold makes the texture mushy, seizes the flavor, and halts ripening.

Tomatoes may be purchased in numerous forms, including sun-dried and canned purée, paste, and diced. The following table covers several varieties of tomatoes, including their relative, the tomatillo.

TOMATILLOS

HEIRLOOM AUNT RUBY’S GERMAN GREEN

HEIRLOOM STRIPED GERMAN

YELLOW GRAPE

HEIRLOOM PURPLE CHEROKEE

chapter 8 » FRUIT, VEGETABLE, AND FRESH HERB IDENTIFICATION 11

STANDARD/BEEFSTEAK

YELLOW

PLUM/ROMA

CHERRY

PEARYELLOW PEAR

GRAPE

tomatoes

TomatoesVARIETY DESCRIPTION COMMON CULINARY USES

STANDARD/BEEFSTEAK Large; round or oval. Deep red or yellow. Juicy. Sweet

Raw in salads and sandwiches. Cooked in sauces, braises, stews

PLUM/ITALIAN PLUM/ROMA

Medium, egg shaped. Red or yellow. Greater proportion of flesh; dryish. Sweet

In sauces, purées, soups, and other cooked dishes. Oven roasted

CHERRY Small, 1 inch in diameter. Red or yellow. Juicy. Sweet

Raw in salads and crudités platters

CURRANT/CRANBERRY Specialty item. Very small, 1⁄2–3⁄4 inch in diameter. Red or yellow. Crisp, sweet

Raw in salads

PEAR TOMATOES Small, pear shaped; red or yellow; juicy, sweet

Raw in salads and crudités platters

HEIRLOOM (BRANDY-WINE, MARVEL STRIPED, PURPLE CALABASH, ETC.)

Range in size and color from small with green stripes to large pinkish-purple; beautiful, often oddly shaped. Juicy and sweet

Raw in salads; cooked in soups and sauces

TOMATILLOS Medium, 1 to 2 inches in diameter, round, firm. Green or purple with brown, papery husk. Tart, fruity flavor

Raw in salads and salsas. Cooked in sauces. Popular in Mexican and Southwestern cuisines


Tying a roast with secure knots that have the right tension is one of the simplest and most frequently required types of meat fabrication. It ensures that the roast will cook evenly and that it will retain its shape after roasting. Although simple, the technique is often one of the most frustrating to learn. For one thing, knot tying is not always easy. As long as the string is taut enough to give the roast a compact shape, without being too tight, however, the result will be fine. There is one trick to keep in mind that will make initial attempts easier. Leave the string very long so that it will wrap easily around the entire diameter and length of the meat. Or leave the string attached to the spool and cut it only when the entire roast has been tied. There are other methods used for tying roasts than the two shown here. If you have the chance to learn other methods, you will be better able to adapt to tying different cuts of meat with ease.

Both techniques illustrated here work for both boneless and bone-in roasts. The choice of technique is a matter of personal preference.

technique oneFor this technique, the string is left attached to the spool rather than cut into lengths. To start tying the roast, tie the end of the string around the thicker end of the meat (any knot that holds securely may be used).

1. Pass the string around your outspread fingers and thumb so that the string crosses itself and makes an X.

2. Spread your hand open to enlarge the loop.

2 3

4

1

Tying a roast

chapter 16 » FABRICATING MEATS, POULTRY, AND FISH 13

3. Continue to enlarge the loop until it is wide enough to pass easily around the thicker end of the meat, completely encircling it.

4. Encircle the meat with the loop, making sure that the knots are spaced evenly apart from one another.

5. Pull the loose end of the string until the loop is securely tightened around the meat. Note that the string has formed a half hitch knot at this point. Con-tinue until the entire piece of meat has been secured with loops.

6. Turn the piece of meat over. Pass the loose end of the string through the loop, then pass it back around and underneath the loop. Pull the string tight and continue down the length of the meat.

7. Once the string has been wrapped around each loop from one end to the other, turn the meat back over. Cut the loose end and tie the string securely to the first loop.

technique twoFor this tying technique, cut several lengths of string. Each piece should be long enough to wrap completely around the meat with sufficient additional length to tie a series of double knots.

6 75

fabricating meat

technique two

the professional chefninth edition

The Culinary Institute of America

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“ An indispensable reference for both the professional and serious home cook.”

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Named one of five favorite culinary books of the decade by Food Arts magazine, The Professional Chef is the classic resource that America’s best professional chefs and home cooks rely on to master the complete range of basic and advanced cooking skills. Now, this comprehensive resource has been revised and expanded to feature a new user-friendly design that guides readers through basic principles with at-a-glance simplicity before covering more complex techniques with beautiful step-by-step photography. Additionally, it includes an all-new chapter on plated desserts and detailed coverage of topics such as sous vide cooking, barbecuing, seasonality, and sustainability, and offers a global perspective with dishes featuring a diversity of international flavors. Covering the full range of modern techniques and a wide assortment of delicious recipes, The Professional Chef, Ninth Edition is the essential reference for every serious home cook.

Founded in 1946, The Culinary Institute of America is an independent, not-for-profit college offering bachelor's and associate degrees in culinary arts and baking and pastry arts, as well as certificate programs in culinary arts and wine and beverage studies. A network of more than 40,000 alumni has helped the CIA earn its reputation as the world’s premier culinary college. The CIA, which also offers courses for professionals and food enthusiasts, as well as consulting services for the foodservice and hospitality industry, has campuses in Hyde Park, NY; St. Helena, CA; San Antonio, TX; and Singapore.

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