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Transcript of Prada SpA (1913.HK)img.jrjimg.cn › 2011 › 08 › 20110804135457033.pdf · EPS growth 144.8 54.1...
August 4, 2011
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Buy Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Return Potential: 27% Equity Research
Combining style and growth; initiate with a Buy rating
Source of opportunity
We initiate Prada with a Buy rating and a 12-month price target of
HK$58.10 implying 27% upside. Prada is a leading global luxury brand
enjoying strong growth, particularly in Asia Pacific, where revenues were
up 63% in FY2011 (Y/E Jan). The Prada Group has four luxury brands:
Prada, Miu Miu, Church’s and Car Shoe. The largest, Prada, is among a
small group of leading global luxury brands that have the scale, through
brand power and a global store network, to capitalize on the growth
opportunity we see for the industry. Miu Miu, the second largest brand, is
the fastest growing, with revenue growth of 40% in FY2011.
Catalyst
Prada report 1H sales on August 22, 2011, and interim results on
September 19, 2011. We believe that the delivery of sector leading top-line
performance and sector leading improvements in returns and margins will
act as a catalyst for the shares. Prada Group revenues increased 31% in
FY2011, outpacing average sector growth of 16%. We expect this rapid
growth to continue to lead the sector, driven by: (1) increased store
openings, (2) exposure to fast growth markets, (3) growth in the leather
goods category, and (4) continued rapid growth of Miu Miu. We also
expect margins and returns to improve to best peers in the sector.
Valuation
Our HK$58.10, 12-month price target is set using a methodology that is
consistent with our European Luxury sector and our Asia Consumer sector
coverage. The multiple we use reflects Prada’s forecast growth and returns
relative to its European and Asian peer group and implies 12.6x lease
adjusted EV/EBITDAR or a P/E of 28x CY2012 earnings estimates.
Key risks
A slowing of global GDP, availability of suitable real estate for store
openings, fashion risk and margin pressure as fixed costs are added.
INVESTMENT LIST MEMBERSHIP
Pan-Europe Buy List
Coverage View: Neutral
William Hutchings +44(20)7051-3017 [email protected] Goldman Sachs International Goldman Sachs does and seeks to do business with companies
covered in its research reports. As a result, investors should be aware that the firm may have a conflict of interest that could affect the objectivity of this report. Investors should consider this report as only a single factor in making their investment decision. For Reg AC see the end of the text. For other important disclosures, see the Disclosure Appendix, or go to www.gs.com/research/hedge.html. Analysts employed by non-US affiliates are not registered/qualified as research analysts with FINRA in the U.S.
Joshua Lu +852-2978-1024 [email protected] Goldman Sachs (Asia) L.L.C. Szilvia Bor +44(20)7552-5984 [email protected] Goldman Sachs International Lucy Baldwin +44(20)7552-5988 [email protected] Goldman Sachs International
The Goldman Sachs Group, Inc. Global Investment Research
Growth
Returns *
Multiple
Volatility Volatility
Multiple
Returns *
Growth
Investment Profile
Low High
Percentile 20th 40th 60th 80th 100th
* Returns = Return on Capital For a complete description of the
investment profile measures please refer to
the disclosure section of this document.
Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Europe Retail Peer Group Average
Key data Current
Price (HK$) 45.65
12 month price target (HK$) 58.10
Upside/(downside) (%) 27
Market cap (HK$ mn) 116,810.3
Enterprise value (€ mn) 10,807.2
1/11 1/12E 1/13E 1/14E
Revenue (€ mn) 2,046.7 2,489.9 2,963.2 3,484.4
EBIT (€ mn) 418.4 576.4 723.3 879.9
EPS (€) 0.10 0.15 0.19 0.24
EV/EBITDA (X) NM 15.1 11.9 9.4
P/E (X) NM 27.3 21.4 17.4
Dividend yield (%) NM 0.0 0.0 0.0
FCF yield (%) NM 2.2 3.2 4.7
CROCI (%) 14.9 15.1 15.9 16.6
CROCI/WACC (X) -- -- -- --
EV/GCI (X) NM 2.4 2.1 1.9
Price performance chart
38
40
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44
46
48
50
May-11 Jun-11 Jul-11
320
330
340
350
360
370
380
Prada SpA (L) FTSE World Europe (EUR) (R)
Share price performance (%) 3 month 6 month 12 monthAbsolute -- -- --
Rel. to FTSE World Europe (EUR) -- -- --
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates, FactSet. Price as of 8/03/2011 close.
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Prada SpA: Summary Financials
Analyst Contributors
William Hutchings
Joshua Lu
Szilvia Bor
Lucy Baldwin
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 2
Profit model (€ mn) 1/11 1/12E 1/13E 1/14E Balance sheet (€ mn) 1/11 1/12E 1/13E 1/14E
Total revenue 2,046.7 2,489.9 2,963.2 3,484.4 Cash & equivalents 79.5 128.1 316.2 455.3
Operating costs (1,628.3) (1,913.5) (2,239.9) (2,604.5) Accounts receivable 274.2 299.0 314.6 321.6
R&D -- -- -- -- Inventory 280.4 327.0 382.1 443.9
Lease payments (295.1) (369.5) (447.1) (528.2) Other current assets 118.9 118.9 118.9 118.9
Other operating profit/(expense) 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 Total current assets 753.0 873.0 1,131.8 1,339.7
EBITDA 535.9 714.6 893.3 1,090.8 Net PP&E 536.7 650.0 767.4 850.9
Depreciation & amortisation (117.5) (138.2) (170.0) (210.9) Net intangibles 869.1 869.1 869.1 869.1
EBIT 418.4 576.4 723.3 879.9 Total investments 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8
Net interest income/(expense) (30.2) (12.2) (6.7) 3.3 Other long-term assets 188.4 143.1 143.1 143.1
Associates 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 Total assets 2,348.9 2,537.0 2,913.3 3,204.7
Profit/(loss) on disposals 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0
Others (recurring) 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 Accounts payable 233.9 265.1 301.2 340.6
Pretax profits 388.2 564.2 716.6 883.2 Short-term debt 177.2 50.0 50.0 50.0
Income tax (134.7) (174.9) (222.1) (273.8) Other current liabilities 231.1 231.1 231.1 231.1
Tax rate (%) 34.7 31.0 31.0 31.0 Total current liabilities 642.1 546.1 582.3 621.7
Minorities (2.7) (2.7) (2.7) (2.7) Long-term debt 303.4 303.4 284.3 93.8
Preferred dividends 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 Other long-term liabilities 193.4 193.4 193.4 193.4
Net income (pre-exceptionals) 250.8 386.5 491.7 606.6 Total long-term liabilities 496.8 496.8 477.7 287.1
Other non-recurring items post tax 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 Total liabilities 1,138.9 1,042.9 1,060.0 908.8
Net income 250.8 386.5 491.7 606.6
EPS (underlying) (€) 0.10 0.15 0.19 0.24 Preferred shares 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0
EPS (basic, reported) (€) 0.10 0.15 0.19 0.24 Total common equity 1,204.4 1,485.6 1,842.0 2,281.9
Weighted shares outstanding (mn) 2,558.8 2,558.8 2,558.8 2,558.8 Minority interest 5.8 8.5 11.3 14.0
Common dividends declared 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 Total liabilities & equity 2,349.0 2,537.0 2,913.3 3,204.7
DPS (€) 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 Capitalised leases 2,360.4 2,955.9 3,577.2 4,225.5
Dividend payout ratio (%) 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 Capital employed 1,690.7 1,847.5 2,187.6 2,439.6
Dividend cover (X) NM NM NM NM
Growth & margins (%) 1/11 1/12E 1/13E 1/14E Adj for unfunded pensions & GW 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0
Revenue growth 31.1 21.7 19.0 17.6 Adj capital employed 1,690.7 1,847.5 2,187.6 2,439.6
EBITDA growth 84.7 33.3 25.0 22.1 Gross cash invested 4,787.2 5,674.4 6,617.7 7,589.8
EBIT growth 123.7 37.8 25.5 21.7
Net income growth 144.8 54.1 27.2 23.4 Ratios 1/11 1/12E 1/13E 1/14E
EPS growth 144.8 54.1 27.2 23.4 CROCI (%) 14.9 15.1 15.9 16.6
DPS growth -- -- -- -- CROCI/WACC (X) -- -- -- --
EBITDA margin 26.2 28.7 30.1 31.3 ROIC (%) 16.7 18.4 18.3 18.2
EBIT margin 20.4 23.1 24.4 25.3 ROIC/WACC (X) -- -- -- --
ROA (%) 10.9 12.8 13.5 14.0
Cash flow statement (€ mn) 1/11 1/12E 1/13E 1/14E WACC (%) -- -- -- --
Net income 250.8 386.5 491.7 606.6 Inventory days 50.0 47.9 47.1 46.5
D&A add-back (incl. ESO) 117.5 138.2 170.0 210.9 Asset turnover (X) 3.8 3.8 3.9 4.1
Minority interest add-back 2.7 2.7 2.7 2.7 Net debt/equity (%) 33.1 15.1 1.0 (13.6)
Net (inc)/dec working capital (75.4) (40.2) (34.6) (29.4) EBITDA interest cover (X) 17.8 58.4 132.9 (335.3)
Other operating cash flow 72.1 0.0 0.0 0.0
Cash flow from operations 367.7 487.2 629.8 790.9 Valuation 1/11 1/12E 1/13E 1/14E
EV/sales (X) NM 4.3 3.6 2.9
Capital expenditures (187.6) (251.5) (287.4) (294.4) EV/EBITDAR (X) NM 12.7 10.6 9.0
Acquisitions (4.0) 0.0 0.0 0.0 EV/EBITDA (X) NM 15.1 11.9 9.4
Divestitures 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 EV/EBIT (X) NM 14.6 12.1 10.3
Others 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 P/E (X) NM 27.3 21.4 17.4
Cash flow from investing (191.6) (251.5) (287.4) (294.4) Dividend yield (%) NM 0.0 0.0 0.0
FCF yield (%) NM 2.2 3.2 4.7
Dividends paid (common & pref) (59.4) (60.0) (135.2) (166.8) EV/GCI (X) NM 2.4 2.1 1.9
Inc/(dec) in debt (109.9) (127.2) (19.1) (190.5) EV/adj. capital employed (X) NM 8.0 7.6 7.3
Other financing cash flows 3.5 0.0 0.0 0.0 Price/book (X) NM 7.1 5.7 4.6
Cash flow from financing (165.8) (187.2) (154.3) (357.4)
Total cash flow 10.3 48.6 188.1 139.1 Note: Ratios are adjusted for leases where appropriate. Only separately disclosed where significant and ongoing.
Capex/D&A (%) 159.6 182.0 169.1 139.6
Reinvestment rate (%) 42.3 47.7 43.3 35.9
Cash flow cover of dividends (X) NM NM NM NM Note: Last actual year may include reported and estimated data.
Free cash flow cover of dividends (X) NM NM NM NM Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 3
Table of contents
Overview: Combining style and growth 4
Valuation: Upside remains as we look to price the growth 7
The opportunity: Luxury Goods, a trillion dollar industry by 2025? 12
Prada Group snapshot by brand, geography, category and channel 22
Growth strategy: Rolling out the store network 33
Profit drivers: Mix analysis, margin initiatives and leverage 38
Financials: Sector-leading growth, sector-catching margins 42
Risks: Slower growth, rising costs, execution of growth strategy 50
Appendix 1: Company profile 51
Appendix 2: Detailed financials 56
Appendix 3: Global Luxury Sector Performance 65
The prices in the body of this report are based on the market close of August 2, 2011.
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 4
Overview: Combining style and growth
We initiate coverage of Prada with a Buy rating and a 12-month price target of
HK$58.10 which implies 27% upside. In our view Prada offers an exceptional
investment opportunity in the Luxury Goods sector, given its sector leading top-line
growth combined with our forecast for material improvements in margins and
returns.
Overview
Prada is a leading global luxury company operating in the luxury ready-to-wear, footwear
and accessories segments. We believe its four brands (Prada, Miu Miu, Church’s and Car
Shoe) are well positioned to grow as the group pursues its clearly defined growth strategy
of:
continuing to expand the DOS (directly operated store) network;
strengthening global coverage, particularly in fast growing Asian markets;
capturing the strong growth potential of Miu Miu; and
continuing to improve margins and profitability.
Potential to continue to outperform peers
The Prada brand is among the largest in the global luxury goods industry (alongside Louis
Vuitton, Gucci, Chanel etc.). In 2010 (Prada year to January 2011), Prada’s growth was twice
that of the luxury goods sector average, and with group net sales of over €2 bn, it is now
one of the world’s largest luxury companies.
Exhibit 1: Prada is one of the largest leading luxury goods
companies… Sales, 2010 (€ mn)
Exhibit 2: … yet it currently generates lower margins
than best-in-class EBIT 2010 (€ mn)
Source: Company data.
Source: Company data.
Despite its success to date, we see significant potential for the group to continue to grow
faster than its peers. More store openings, to bring the size of the network in line with that
of some of its largest peers, the continual evolution of the range towards higher-margin
leather goods and continued expansion of the group’s global footprint, especially in Asia,
should lead to continued top-line growth and margin improvement, in our view.
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August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 5
Exhibit 3: Prada is under-represented in the core Asia
market... Sales in Asia ex-Japan, 2010, € mn
Exhibit 4: … due in part to its smaller global store
network Number of directly operated stores
Source: Company data.
Source: Company data.
Nearly a hundred years old
Prada’s core offering is in the luxury segment of its core product categories: ready-to-wear
(RTW), footwear and accessories. Prada was founded in 1913 and the company in its
current form was formed in the 1970s by Ms Miuccia Prada, the group’s President, and her
husband Mr Patrizio Bertelli, the Chief Executive. Prada’s aim is to be recognized as a
leading global luxury brand, offering its consumers innovative, high quality fashion.
Positioned in a growing market
As discussed in our June 2, 2010 report, A trillion dollar global industry by 2025?, we
believe that global spending in luxury goods will grow faster than GDP over the next 15
years. Within this, the most recognized and largest brands (we use the listed luxury
industry as a proxy) are likely to grow faster than the overall market.
We expect Prada’s addressable market for luxury goods to increase by a multiple of 2x by
2025 (from 2010) and allow the industry to grow 9% pa (at a multiple of 2.2x to GDP),
relative to the historical multiple of 1.8x (1995-2010). We believe that the listed luxury space
has grown on average 200bp faster than the global industry. We believe that the Prada
Group can outpace this market estimate given that management has planned for faster
retail growth. We forecast Prada Group can deliver 18% top-line CAGR over FY2011-14.
Luxury in China: Prada brand and Miu Miu under-represented
In our view China represents the single country with the greatest opportunity for growth
for the luxury goods sector. We forecast that the addressable market for luxury goods in
China (those with incomes greater than US$30,000) is set to grow by a multiple of 15x to
reach 200 mn people by 2025 (from 15 mn today). The Prada Group delivered net sales
growth of 63% in Asia Pacific in FY2011 and we estimate sales in mainland China now
account for 7% of the group total of €2,047 mn and sales in China (including Hong Kong
and Macau) are 19%. Total net sales to Asia ex-Japan are 32%, or €646 mn. We believe that
c.30% of global retail sales are to Chinese consumers, split 50:50 between sales in China
and those travelling. Prada remains under-represented on a global basis relative to other
global brands, particularly in China (Exhibit 3), and we expect this to be the focus of its new
store openings over the next few years. We forecast the store network in Asia (ex-Japan) to
grow to 194 stores in FY2014 from 104 in FY2011.
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Prada Miu Miu Louis
Vuitton
Gucci Hermes Dior Bottega
Veneta
Chanel
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 6
Valuation: upside remains despite 24% post IPO rise
We initiate Prada with a Buy rating and a 12-month price target of HK$58.10 implying 27%
upside. We set our price target with a methodology consistent with our European Luxury
sector and our Asia Consumer sector coverage. Our earnings multiple is set to reflect the
growth and returns of Prada relative to its European and Asian peer group.
Financials: FY2011 showed strategy delivering
In FY2011, Prada Group net revenues grew 31%. The fastest segments of growth came
from Asia (ex-Japan) 63%, leather goods 42% and the retail channel 44%. The company
also saw a significant improvement in profit margins, with the EBITDA margin up 760bp to
26.2%.
We expect Prada Group to deliver best-in-class top-line growth, driven by its focus on store
based expansion. Management expects to open c.80 stores pa over FY2011-14, and we
forecast that this can deliver top-line CAGR growth of 19% pa over the same period. We
forecast EBITDA margins will continue to progress towards the soft luxury sector average.
Should management achieve this growth, we estimate that the company will continue to
deliver improvements in return on cash invested (CROCI) to 16.7% in FY2014 from 14.9% in
FY2011.
Risks: Expansion, execution and macro conditions
Key risks to Prada’s strategy and growth potential include slowing global GDP, availability
of suitable real estate for store openings, fashion risk and margin compression as fixed
costs are added.
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 7
Valuation: Upside remains as we look to price the growth
We value Prada using a methodology consistent with our European Luxury goods sector
and Asia consumer coverage. We apply a lease-adjusted EV/EBITDAR multiple of 12.6x to
CY2012 forward earnings. We believe that this multiple appropriately reflects the relative
growth and returns of Prada. For primary comparison we use the quoted global luxury
goods companies as a peer group; however, we also examine Prada’s valuation in the
context of the Asia listed peer group.
Prada a fast growing global luxury brand
Comparing Prada to our global quoted luxury goods companies, we note that based on our
estimates, Prada has top-quartile sales growth, top-quartile net income growth,
comparable sector margins and is showing improvements in returns on capital.
Exhibit 5: Our multiple reflects top of sector sales
growth… Target EV/EBITDAR multiple vs. Sales CAGR 2010-13E for
European listed Global Consumer Discretionary sector
Exhibit 6: … and EBITDA margin expansion Target EV/EBITDAR multiple vs. EBITDA CAGR 2010-13E for
European listed Global Consumer Discretionary sector
Source: Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Source: Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Exhibit 7: And implies a moderate premium to CROCI …Target EV/EBITDAR multiple vs. CROCI 2013E for European
listed Global Consumer Discretionary sector
Exhibit 8: … and premium to asset valuation Target EV/GCI multiple vs. CROCI 2013E for European listed
Global Consumer Discretionary sector
Source: Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Source: Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
5.0x
6.0x
7.0x
8.0x
9.0x
10.0x
11.0x
12.0x
13.0x
14.0x
15.0x
0.0% 5.0% 10.0% 15.0% 20.0% 25.0%
Target EV/EBITDAR multiple
Sales CAGR 2010‐13E
BNG.MI
TOD.MI
GEO.MI
PRTP.PA
ESSI.PA
LUX.MI
ADSGn.DE
HMb.ST
ITX.MC
PUMG.DE
BULG.MI
BRBY.L
LVMH.PA
CFR.VX
UHR.VX
PNDORA.CO
BOSG_p.DE
1913.HK
5.0x
6.0x
7.0x
8.0x
9.0x
10.0x
11.0x
12.0x
13.0x
14.0x
15.0x
0.0% 5.0% 10.0% 15.0% 20.0% 25.0% 30.0%
Target EV/EBITDAR multiple
EBITDA CAGR 2010‐13E
BNG.MI
TOD.MI
GEO.MI
PRTP.PA
ESSI.PA
LUX.MI
ADSGn.DE
HMb.ST
ITX.MC
PUMG.DE
BULG.MI
BRBY.L
LVMH.PA
CFR.VX
UHR.VX
PNDORA.CO
BOSG_p.DE
1913.HK
5.0x
6.0x
7.0x
8.0x
9.0x
10.0x
11.0x
12.0x
13.0x
14.0x
15.0x
5.0% 10.0% 15.0% 20.0% 25.0% 30.0% 35.0%
Target EV/EBITDAR multiple
CROCI 2013E
BNG.MI
TOD.MI
GEO.MI
PRTP.PA
ESSI.PA
LUX.MI
ADSGn.DE
HMb.ST
ITX.MC
PUMG.DE
BULG.MI
BRBY.L
LVMH.PA
CFR.VX
UHR.VX
BOSG_p.DE
1913.HK
0.5x
1.0x
1.5x
2.0x
2.5x
3.0x
3.5x
5.0% 7.0% 9.0% 11.0% 13.0% 15.0% 17.0% 19.0% 21.0% 23.0% 25.0%
Target EV/G
CI
CROCI 2013E
BNG.MI
TOD.MI
GEO.MI
PRTP.PA
ESSI.PA
LUX.MIADSGn.DE
HMb.ST
ITX.MC
PUMG.DE
BULG.MI
BRBY.L
LVMH.PA
CFR.VX
UHR.VX
1913.HK
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 8
Exhibit 9: Our price target reflects the sales growth…
Target price P/E multiple CY2012 vs. sales growth 2011-13E
Exhibit 10: … and earnings growth of the Asia peer group
Current price P/E multiple CY2011 vs. EPS growth 2011-13E
Source: Goldman Sachs Research estimates. Bloomberg consensus estimates for Trinity Ltd, Hengdeli Holdings Ltd, China Lilang Ltd, L'Occitane Int’l SA, Luk Fook Holdings Internationa, SA SA International Holdings, Peak Sport Products Co Ltd, IT Ltd, Chow Sang Sang Holdings Int’l, Giordano International Ltd.
Source: Goldman Sachs Research estimates. Bloomberg consensus estimates for Trinity Ltd, Hengdeli Holdings Ltd, China Lilang Ltd, L'Occitane Int’l SA, Luk Fook Holdings Internationa, SA SA International Holdings, Peak Sport Products Co Ltd, IT Ltd, Chow Sang Sang Holdings Int’l, Giordano International Ltd.
Exhibit 11: Prada top-quartile sales growth
Sales growth 2011-13E
Exhibit 12: Prada average operating margins
EBIT margin 2010-13E
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Exhibit 13: Prada top-quartile net income growth
Net income growth, 2010-13E
Exhibit 14: Prada in line with sector returns
CROCI, 2010-13E
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
‐
5.0
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15.0
20.0
25.0
30.0
35.0
8.0% 13.0% 18.0% 23.0% 28.0%
2011E P/E
Sales CAGR CY 2011E‐13E
Trinity
Samsonite Hengdeli
Belle
China Lilang
L'Occitane
Luk Fook
SA SA
Peak Sports
IT
Daphne
Chow Sang Sang
Ports Design
XTEPEspirit Li Ning
Giordano
361 degrees
Anta Sports
Dongxiang
Bosideng
Prada
‐
5.0
10.0
15.0
20.0
25.0
30.0
35.0
0.0% 5.0% 10.0% 15.0% 20.0% 25.0% 30.0% 35.0%
2011E P/E
EPS CAGR CY2011E‐13E
Trinity
SamsoniteHengdeli
Belle
Chow Sang Sang L'OccitaneLuk Fook
SA SA
Peak Sports
ITDaphne
Ports Design
XTEP
Espirit
Li NingBosideng
Giordano
361 degrees
Anta Sports
Prada
Dongxiang
0%
5%
10%
15%
20%
25%
Golden Eagle
Burberry
Belle International
Prada
The Swatch
Group
Pandora
Ferragam
o
Richemont
Tod's
LVMH
Herm
es
Bulgari
Tiffany
Lifestyle
Polo Ralph Lauren
0%
10%
20%
30%
40%
50%
60%
70%Golden Eagle
Lifestyle
Pandora
Herm
es
The Swatch
Group
Prada
Belle International
Tod's
LVMH
Richemont
Tiffany
Burberry
Polo Ralph Lauren
Ferragam
o
Bulgari
0%
10%
20%
30%
40%
50%
60%
70%
80%
Bulgari
Prada
Burberry
Richemont
Belle
International
Golden Eagle
LVMH
Pandora
Ferragam
o
Tod's
The Swatch
Group
Herm
es
Tiffany
Polo Ralph Lauren
Lifestyle
0%
5%
10%
15%
20%
25%
30%
35%
40%
45%
Pandora
Belle
International
Polo Ralph Lauren
Herm
es
Richemont
Golden Eagle
Tiffany
Burberry
Tod's
The Swatch
Group
Lifestyle
Prada
LVMH
Ferragam
o
Bulgari
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 9
Exhibit 15: Prada has a more efficient balance sheet
Net debt: EBITDA 2010-13E
Exhibit 16: Prada investing ahead of the sector
Capex as % of sales, 2010-13E
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Exhibit 17: Prada growth is consistently outpacing the
sector Dynamic sales growth, %
Exhibit 18: We forecast Prada to lead the sector on
margins Dynamic EBIT margins, %
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
‐1.8x
‐1.6x
‐1.4x
‐1.2x
‐1.0x
‐0.8x
‐0.6x
‐0.4x
‐0.2x
0.0x
0.2x
0.4x
0.6x
LVMH
Bulgari
Prada
Tiffany
Ferragam
o
Polo Ralph Lauren
Burberry
Tod's
Golden Eagle
Pandora
Lifestyle
Belle
International
Herm
es
The Swatch
Group
Richemont
9%8% 8%
7% 7% 7% 6% 6% 6% 6%5% 4% 4%
3%
‐1%
1%
3%
5%
7%
9%
11%
13%
15%
Prada
Lifestyle
Burberry
Tod's
Herm
es
Richemont
The Swatch
Group
Bulgari
Tiffan
y
LVMH
Belle International
Polo Ralph Lauren
Ferragam
o
Pandora
‐10%
‐5%
0%
5%
10%
15%
20%
25%
30%
35%
2009 2010 2011E 2012E 2013E 2014E
Industry Prada
0%
5%
10%
15%
20%
25%
30%
2009 2010 2011E 2012E 2013E 2014E
Industry Prada
August 4, 2011
Prada SpA (1913.H
K)
Goldm
an Sachs Global Investm
ent Research
10
Exhibit 19: Global Luxury Valuation
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
CY11 CY12 CY13 CY11 CY12 CY11 CY12 CY13 CY11 CY12 CY13 CY11 CY12 CY13 CY11 CY12 CY13Prada 28.2x 21.9x 17.7x 47.7x 40.3x 4.4x 3.6x 3.0x 15.4x 12.0x 9.5x 2.5x 2.2x 1.9x 2.2% 3.2% 4.6%Burberry 23.6x 19.1x 15.6x 24.7x 21.1x 3.4x 2.8x 2.4x 14.4x 11.4x 9.2x 3.1x 2.8x 2.4x 1.6% 3.0% 4.2%Hermes 43.7x 37.5x 32.5x 43.5x 38.7x 8.8x 7.7x 6.6x 26.0x 22.5x 19.3x 8.5x 6.9x 6.0x 2.1% 1.4% 2.6%LVMH 17.7x 15.0x 12.8x 23.6x 20.8x 2.6x 2.2x 1.9x 9.6x 8.2x 7.0x 1.7x 1.5x 1.4x 3.7% 4.2% 5.5%PPR 13.7x 10.8x 9.1x 17.4x 14.7x 1.2x 1.1x 0.9x 8.4x 6.8x 5.6x 0.9x 0.9x 0.8x 7.7% 10.3% 11.7%Richemont 17.2x 13.3x 11.1x 30.8x 26.6x 2.7x 2.3x 1.9x 10.3x 8.2x 6.7x 2.5x 2.1x 1.8x 3.5% 4.2% 5.4%Swatch 17.8x 12.9x 10.7x 23.5x 20.4x 1.9x 1.4x 1.2x 6.7x 4.8x 4.0x 1.3x 1.1x 0.9x 2.1% 2.2% 2.8%Tod's 19.0x 15.4x 13.1x 25.7x 22.6x 2.8x 2.4x 2.1x 10.5x 8.7x 7.4x 2.5x 2.2x 2.0x 3.0% 3.9% 4.5%Luxottica 19.4x 16.0x 13.5x 24.0x 20.6x 1.9x 1.7x 1.5x 9.9x 8.3x 7.0x 1.3x 1.2x 1.1x 5.4% 6.2% 7.4%Average 19.6x 15.5x 12.9x 27.2x 23.4x 2.6x 2.2x 1.9x 10.7x 8.6x 7.1x 2.0x 1.7x 1.6x 4% 5% 6%Coach 19.0x 16.4x 14.3x 21.7x 19.0x 3.8x 3.2x 2.7x 10.8x 9.3x 7.8x 11.9x 10.9x 9.4x 5.2% 5.9% 7.0%Polo Ralph Lauren 20.1x 17.9x 15.7x 20.1x 17.4x 1.8x 1.6x 1.4x 10.5x 9.4x 8.1x 3.8x 3.5x 3.2x 4.3% 5.4% 6.4%Tiffany 20.0x 17.7x 16.1x 19.0x 16.5x 2.6x 2.4x 2.2x 10.4x 9.3x 8.5x 2.6x 2.4x 2.3x 1.6% 4.3% 5.0%Average 19.7x 17.3x 15.4x 20.3x 17.6x 2.7x 2.4x 2.1x 10.6x 9.3x 8.2x 6.1x 5.6x 5.0x 4% 5% 6%Belle International 25.6x 20.0x 16.7x 37.0x 30.3x 3.8x 3.1x 2.7x 17.6x 13.3x 10.8x 7.8x 6.6x 5.5x 3.6% 3.3% 3.7%Trinity 29.8x 22.7xHengdeli 24.2x 18.4xL'Occitane 23.3x 17.5xAverage 19.9x 15.5x 13.4x 27.2x 21.4x 3.5x 2.9x 2.5x 13.8x 10.4x 8.6x 6.3x 5.3x 4.5x 4% 5% 6%
Macy's 10.7x 9.5x 8.8x 12.8x 11.3x 0.7x 0.6x 0.6x 5.2x 4.7x 4.3x 0.8x 0.8x 0.7x 5.0% 12.1% 14.4%Nordstrom 15.0x 13.4x 11.9x 17.4x 15.1x 1.0x 0.9x 0.8x 7.0x 6.3x 5.5x 1.5x 1.4x 1.3x 8.2% 7.9% 9.1%Saks 26.9x 20.0x 17.8x 35.7x 26.0x 0.6x 0.6x 0.5x 7.0x 6.4x 5.6x 0.7x 0.7x 0.6x -0.1% 3.1% 5.0%Average 17.5x 14.3x 12.8x 22.0x 17.5x 0.8x 0.7x 0.6x 6.4x 5.8x 5.1x 1.0x 1.0x 0.9x 4% 8% 9%Golden Eagle Retail Group 26.0x 20.6x 16.5x 31.7x 25.3x 8.9x 7.2x 6.0x 16.8x 13.2x 10.7x 4.3x 3.2x 2.4x 0.7% 0.9% 0.5%Maoye International 19.7x 16.1x 12.9x 38.5x 27.8x 5.1x 4.0x 3.0x 12.5x 9.7x 7.4x 1.8x 1.6x 1.4x -6.7% -2.0% 2.1%Lifestyle International 25.9x 24.3x 23.2x 25.2x 21.9x 8.0x 7.2x 6.5x 18.3x 16.2x 15.0x 3.7x 3.4x 3.2x 4.2% 4.1% 4.1%Parkson Retail Group 22.5x 18.9x 14.8x 27.4x 22.1x 4.8x 3.9x 3.1x 13.9x 11.4x 8.7x 3.7x 3.3x 3.0x 4.7% 5.9% 7.3%New World Department stores 13.2x 13.3x 17.2x 16.5x 2.1x 1.9x 6.6x 5.6x 1.0x 0.9x 5.9% 5.5%Intime Department Store 25.4x 18.4x 14.1x 31.4x 24.5x 6.7x 5.1x 4.0x 17.1x 12.6x 9.8x 1.6x 1.4x 1.2x 8.4% 8.5% 9.4%Average 22.1x 18.6x 16.3x 28.6x 23.0x 6.0x 4.9x 4.5x 14.2x 11.5x 10.3x 2.7x 2.3x 2.2x 3% 4% 5%
Inditex 19.9x 16.4x 14.1x 26.2x 23.1x 2.5x 2.1x 1.8x 10.5x 8.5x 7.1x 2.4x 2.2x 1.9x 5.2% 6.2% 7.3%H&M 21.2x 18.6x 16.5x 19.7x 16.8x 2.8x 2.6x 2.3x 13.2x 11.7x 10.5x 2.8x 2.6x 2.4x 3.6% 3.8% 4.6%Average 20.6x 17.5x 15.3x 23.0x 19.9x 2.7x 2.3x 2.0x 11.8x 10.1x 8.8x 2.6x 2.4x 2.2x 4% 5% 6%Gap 12.6x 13.0x 12.3x 11.8x 10.0x 0.7x 0.7x 0.6x 5.3x 5.3x 5.1x 1.2x 1.0x 0.9x 8.2% 7.3% 7.7%Philips Van Heusen 13.5x 11.7x 9.9x 1.1x 1.0x 0.9x 7.8x 6.8x 5.7x 4.2x 3.9x 3.5x 5.9% 9.6% 11.5%Average 13.0x 12.4x 11.1x 11.8x 10.0x 0.9x 0.8x 0.8x 6.5x 6.1x 5.4x 2.7x 2.4x 2.2x 7% 8% 10%Espirit Holdings 6.8x 5.9x 18.0x 17.7x 0.6x 0.6x 3.8x 3.1x 1.1x 1.0x 9.6% 11.2%Fast Retailing 23.6x 19.1x 22.9x 18.9x 1.4x 1.2x 8.9x 7.5x 7.5x 6.3x 3.5% 3.4%Li & Fung 17.8x 15.0x 11.4x 26.8x 21.4x 0.6x 0.6x 0.5x 12.2x 10.0x 8.0x 2.4x 2.2x 2.0x 8.0% 8.9% 11.8%Stella International 15.2x 13.5x 12.3x 13.6x 11.7x 1.2x 1.1x 1.0x 10.8x 9.6x 8.6x 3.0x 2.6x 2.3x 3.5% 4.6% 5.1%Average 15.9x 13.4x 11.8x 20.3x 17.4x 1.0x 0.9x 0.8x 8.9x 7.5x 8.3x 3.5x 3.0x 2.1x 6% 7% 8%
FCF yieldP/E (cal) Cons implied target PE (cal) EV/sales (cal) lease adj. EV/EBITDA (cal) EV/GCI (cal)
Europe
US
Asia
Luxu
ry a
nd P
rem
ium
Bra
nds
Dep
artm
ent s
tore
sA
ppar
el R
etai
lers
Asia
US
Asia
Europe
US
August 4, 2011
Prada SpA (1913.H
K)
Goldm
an Sachs Global Investm
ent Research
11
Exhibit 20: Global Luxury Margin
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates
CY10 CY11 CY12 CY13 CY10 CY11 CY12 CY13 CY10 CY11 CY12 CY13 CY10 CY11 CY12 CY13Prada 67.5% 69.9% 71.3% 72.4% 25.7% 28.5% 30.0% 31.2% 19.9% 23.0% 24.3% 25.2% 18.4% 22.4% 24.1% 25.3%Burberry 65.4% 66.3% 66.8% 67.2% 21.1% 23.9% 25.0% 25.8% 17.2% 19.9% 20.8% 21.5% 19.0% 20.4% 21.0% 21.6%Hermes 66.8% 68.3% 68.5% 68.8% 31.7% 33.8% 34.0% 34.3% 27.8% 30.3% 30.5% 30.8% 27.5% 31.1% 31.5% 31.9%LVMH 64.6% 65.8% 66.0% 66.3% 24.4% 26.9% 27.1% 27.3% 20.5% 22.8% 23.2% 23.4% 19.9% 22.5% 23.0% 23.4%PPR 50.9% 48.5% 48.6% 48.7% 13.5% 14.3% 15.7% 16.4% 10.5% 11.3% 12.7% 13.4% 7.4% 10.0% 11.7% 12.8%Richemont 63.3% 64.5% 65.2% 65.7% 23.3% 26.3% 27.5% 28.1% 18.9% 22.0% 23.2% 23.9% 16.3% 21.5% 23.4% 24.1%Swatch 75.9% 76.7% 77.2% 77.7% 27.1% 28.2% 28.8% 29.6% 23.5% 24.6% 25.2% 26.0% 22.9% 25.8% 26.3% 26.9%Tod's 41.1% 43.3% 44.0% 44.4% 23.9% 26.4% 27.4% 27.8% 19.8% 22.7% 24.0% 24.7% 20.3% 22.9% 24.2% 24.9%Luxottica 65.7% 66.2% 66.9% 67.4% 17.8% 19.1% 20.1% 20.9% 12.3% 13.6% 14.5% 15.3% 10.4% 12.2% 13.5% 14.6%Average 62% 63% 63% 64% 22% 24% 25% 26% 18% 20% 21% 22% 17% 20% 21% 22%Coach 72.9% 72.6% 72.5% 35.2% 35.1% 35.4% 31.9% 32.1% 32.6% 31.9% 32.1% 32.6%Polo Ralph Lauren 58.5% 57.6% 57.2% 57.2% 17.9% 17.5% 17.3% 17.7% 14.8% 14.5% 14.5% 15.0% 14.5% 14.2% 14.3% 14.8%Tiffany 58.9% 59.4% 59.5% 59.6% 24.3% 25.3% 25.4% 25.5% 19.5% 21.0% 21.4% 21.7% 18.0% 19.8% 20.2% 20.7%Average 63% 63% 63% 58% 26% 26% 26% 22% 22% 23% 23% 18% 21% 22% 22% 18%Belle International 55.3% 55.3% 52.7% 52.9% 19.4% 21.0% 22.0% 23.0% 16.5% 18.1% 19.1% 20.1% 17.4% 18.7% 19.8% 20.8%TrinityHengdeliL'OccitaneAverage 55% 55% 53% 53% 19% 21% 22% 23% 16% 18% 19% 20% 17% 19% 20% 21%
Macy's 40.7% 40.5% 40.5% 40.6% 12.2% 12.8% 12.9% 13.0% 7.5% 8.5% 8.9% 9.0% 5.4% 6.8% 7.4% 7.6%Nordstrom 39.1% 39.3% 39.3% 39.3% 14.8% 14.9% 14.9% 15.1% 11.4% 11.7% 11.8% 12.0% 10.1% 10.6% 10.7% 11.1%Saks 39.8% 40.7% 41.0% 41.3% 7.9% 8.8% 9.1% 9.7% 3.6% 4.9% 5.5% 6.3% 1.6% 3.3% 4.3% 4.8%Average 40% 40% 40% 40% 12% 12% 12% 13% 8% 8% 9% 9% 6% 7% 7% 8%Golden Eagle Retail Group 78.0% 77.1% 72.8% 70.5% 55.7% 53.8% 52.9% 53.9% 50.9% 49.0% 47.6% 47.6% 52.9% 50.0% 48.4% 48.2%Maoye International 65.6% 64.5% 62.2% 60.5% 49.5% 47.6% 49.1% 49.3% 39.9% 39.4% 39.3% 37.5% 36.7% 33.4% 33.1% 32.4%Lifestyle International 57.5% 57.7% 58.1% 58.7% 40.7% 42.3% 42.9% 42.2% 35.8% 37.8% 38.5% 37.4% 43.9% 40.5% 41.5% 40.6%Parkson Retail Group 74.3% 75.2% 71.2% 68.9% 37.5% 35.8% 33.5% 34.1% 33.4% 31.7% 29.8% 30.8% 30.4% 30.3% 28.7% 30.2%New World Department stores 83.2% 82.4% 82.4% 37.1% 33.1% 34.2% 26.8% 23.1% 24.2% 41.1% 31.1% 25.6%Intime Department Store 74.2% 70.5% 67.2% 65.3% 38.3% 38.6% 38.5% 38.2% 27.9% 29.3% 28.8% 27.5% 40.5% 36.0% 36.3% 36.0%Average 72% 71% 69% 65% 43% 42% 42% 44% 36% 35% 35% 36% 41% 37% 36% 37%
Gross Profit Margin EBITDA Margin EBIT Margin PTP Margin
Asia
Dep
artm
ent s
tore
s
Asia
US
Luxu
ry a
nd P
rem
ium
Bra
nds Europe
US
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 12
The opportunity: Luxury Goods, a trillion dollar industry by 2025?
We believe the market for luxury goods could grow by 3.8x to reach US$1 trillion by 2025.
In our report of June 2, 2010, A trillion dollar global industry by 2025?, we discussed how
demand is likely to be boosted by the significant growth in the middle class in emerging
economies – especially China.
The drivers of economic growth are shifting from the developed markets to the emerging
markets. With global growth led by the BRIC economies (Brazil, Russia, India and China),
our Economists expect global GDP to grow 86% between 2010 and 2025 and for the BRIC
economies to contribute 58% of the total growth. Luxury goods sales have historically
grown at a consistent multiple of global GDP. They expect the global middle class (those
with incomes greater than US$30,000) to grow by 664 mn by 2025 (CAGR 5.1%) and for
China to lead this growth (+193 mn). We also identify a strong relationship between
growth in the middle class and middle class spend per head on luxury goods.
BRICS driving global growth
Our Economists expect China to account for two-thirds of the BRICs growth mentioned
above, or around 40% of the global total to 2025. They expect the middle class in these
countries to grow significantly, which we believe will drive the consumption of premium
products and luxury goods. In our view, the leading luxury goods brands such as Prada
and Miu Miu will benefit from this trend.
Exhibit 21: 60% of HNWIs* live in Europe and North
America; in Latin America the numbers are rising fast HNWI population, million people
Exhibit 22: The majority of HNWIs* live in developed
countries but they are increasing fast in BRIC countries HNWI population, million people
*HNWI = high net worth individuals Source: World Wealth Report 2010.
Source: World Wealth Report 2010.
0.0
2.0
4.0
6.0
8.0
10.0
12.0
2006 2007 2008 2009
Africa Middle East Latin America
Asia‐Pacific Europe North America
9.510.1
8.6
10.02866
1650
861
477 448 383251 179 147 143 118 127 63 79
0
500
1000
1500
2000
2500
3000
3500
USA
Japan
Germ
any
China
UK
France
Canada
Italy
Brasil
Spain
Russia
India
UAE
HK
2009 2008
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 13
The role of Japan and the underpenetrated China
The luxury goods market is estimated (Chevalier and Lu Luxury China: Market
Opportunities and Potential John Wiley & Sons, 2010) to have reached sales of US$265 bn
in 2008, with the largest single market, Japan, accounting for c.40% of global sales, or
US$106 bn. The US is the second largest market, with sales of US$53 bn in 2008 or 20% of
the total, and Europe the third with US$45 bn or 17%.
In contrast, China, was ‘only’ a US$15 bn market in 2008. We estimate that the global
luxury goods market has grown 2.2x since 1995, at a 4.2% CAGR, with Japan and the Rest
of the World (ROW) contributing the most – Japan an additional US$67 bn sales at a 6.6%
CAGR and RoW US$44 bn at a 22% CAGR. Within luxury goods, the ready-to-wear market
is estimated, by the same study, to be a US$30 bn market and the leather goods market to
be worth US$24 bn.
Exhibit 23: Japan is the largest luxury goods market Global luxury goods market US$265 bn, 2008
Exhibit 24: Spirits & champagne: Biggest single categoryCategory breakdown of global luxury goods market, %
Source: Chevalier and Lu “Luxury China: Market Opportunities and Potential” John Wiley & Sons, 2010.
Source: Chevalier and Lu “Luxury China: Market Opportunities and Potential” John Wiley & Sons, 2010.
Income growth and size of the middle class key drivers of luxury
goods sales
Annual per capita spending on luxury goods is currently US$170 in the US and US$834 in
Japan, while the global average is US$38, on our estimates. Spending in China is
currently US$11 per capita. Despite being a US$15 bn market in 2008, on a per capita
basis China is an underpenetrated luxury goods market and is to date showing more
similarities to Japan than the US. We estimate that despite China being a small luxury
goods market relative to its overall GDP, the Chinese middle class is spending more than
the Japanese on a per capita basis.
Growth in the global middle class has been a driver of growth for the global luxury goods
industry. We estimate that in emerging markets, luxury spend per individual earning a
middle class income is high relative to the world average. We estimate that spend per
head is US$1650 in China, US$1,440 in Japan and US$680 in Russia relative to a global
average of US$420 per middle class consumer. Hence, we believe that the rapid growth in
those earning above US$30,000 will be a key driver of growth for the luxury goods market
and that China will be the largest luxury market by 2018.
US
20%
Europe
17%
Japan
40%
China
6%
RoW
17%
Ready-to-
wear
11%Leather
Goods
9%
Fragrances
and
cosmetics
16%
Spirits and
Champagne
40%
Watches
6%
Jewellery
15%
Others
3%
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 14
Exhibit 25: China to contribute 193 mn (of 644 mn)
additional middle class population by 2025 Number of individuals with income greater than US$30,000
(million)
Exhibit 26: China middle class already has a high
propensity to spend, similar to the Japanese consumer Luxury goods sales per capita with income greater than
US$30,000 in 2008
Source: Goldman Sachs Global ECS Research.
Source: Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Exhibit 27: China to take 33% share, Japan to fall to 13%
share by 2015 from 40%
Exhibit 28: China underpenetrated; our scenario sees
China develop like Japan
Luxury goods sales per capita (y-axis) vs. GNI per capita
(x-axis), US $
Source: Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Source: Goldman Sachs Research estimates, World Data Bank.
Exhibit 29: Asia (ex Japan) and Americas fastest growthLuxury goods worldwide, composition, € bn
Exhibit 30: China growth potential remains significant GS estimates for Luxury category sales, US$ bn
Source: Altagamma.
Source: Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
599
1263
2540 10
19325
61
310
200
400
600
800
1000
1200
1400
2010 Brazil Russia India China Japan US RoW 2025
Europe, 203
US, 300RoW, 345
Brazil, 415
Russia, 679
Japan, 1436
China , 1650
0
200
400
600
800
1000
1200
1400
1600
1800
Luxury sales per capita with income > US$30,000
0%
10%
20%
30%
40%
50%
60%
70%
80%
90%
100%
Global Luxury Goods market geographic mix, %
US ($ bn) Europe ($ bn) Japan ($ bn) China ($ bn) RoW ($ bn)
US 1995 Luxury spend
per capita US $ 131
Japan 1995 Luxury spend per
capita US $ 312
US 2009 Luxury spend
per capita US $ 174
Japan 2009 Luxury spend per
capita US $ 790
China 2025 Luxury spend per
capita US $ 226 estimates
0
100
200
300
400
500
600
700
800
900
0 5000 10000 15000 20000 25000 30000 35000 40000 45000 50000
Does China Luxury follow Japan or America?
China '09
Luxury spend
per capita
CAGR
09‐05
YoY
09‐08
YoY
10E‐09
10% 0% 12%
13% 10% 23%
‐4% ‐12% 0%
‐3% ‐14% 16%
2% ‐9% 0%
0
20
40
60
80
100
120
140
160
180
200
2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010E
RoW
Asia (ex Japan)
Japan
Americas
Europe
147160 170 166 172
153
0.0
50.0
100.0
150.0
200.0
250.0
300.0
350.0
1995
1996
1997
1998
1999
2000
2001
2002
2003
2004
2005
2006
2007
2008
2009
2010
2011
2012
2013
2014
2015
2016
2017
2018
2019
2020
2021
2022
2023
2024
2025
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 15
Please note the Altagamma and Goldman Sachs estimates of the market size for luxury
goods and corresponding growth rates are independent of each other and should not be
considered comparable.
Exhibit 31: Hard luxury and leather goods fastest growth Luxury goods worldwide, composition, € bn
Exhibit 32: RTW and leather goods 9% pa growth GS estimates for Luxury category sales, US$ bn
Source: Altagamma.
Source: Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Is the middle class the best definition of the luxury consumer?
We estimate that the luxury goods market, as defined by the categories of luxury or
premium products that we examine, extends its reach well beyond any definition of the
affluent. We believe that many “luxury” or “premium” price products are accessible to
the middle class. Hence, we believe growth in the addressable market for luxury goods
companies will come from growth of the super rich and also of the middle classes.
We believe that medium-term demand and supply factors favour leather goods, RTW,
watches and origin-protected spirits, given the:
democratization of “luxury”;
premiumization of “staples”; and
purchasing power of the emerging market affluent.
Middle class to drive discretionary spending. As households become more affluent,
their discretionary spending power also increases. Those with incomes between
US$6,000 and US$25,000 spend c.35% of their income on products and services that are
classified as non-necessities. For those earning over US$25,000, some 75% of their
income is spent on discretionary consumption (source: The coming of age: China’s new
class of wealthy consumers, McKinsey).
Exhibit 33: Ready-to-wear and leather goods remain “luxury” categories
Examples of entry point and average product and price point by category
Source: Compiled by Goldman Sachs Research.
CAGR
09‐05
YoY
09‐08
YoY
10E‐09
‐3% ‐1% 9%
0% 5% 4%
1% 9% 21%
6% 11% 17%
‐1% 5% 10%
0
20
40
60
80
100
120
140
160
180
200
2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010E
Other
Perfume and cosmetics
Hard Luxury
Leather, Accessories & shoes
Apparel
147160 170 166 172
153
0
20
40
60
80
100
120
140
1995
1996
1997
1998
1999
2000
2001
2002
2003
2004
2005
2006
2007
2008
2009
2010
2011
2012
2013
2014
2015
2016
2017
2018
2019
2020
2021
2022
2023
2024
2025
inU
S$bn
Ready to wear Leather Goods
ASP Entry ASP Entry US$ point US$ point
Watches 150 Rotary Mens Quartz 47 Casio Mens Sports Watches 7000 Rolex Watch 1614 Rado Mens Bracelet Watch
Jewellery 180 Swarovski Pendant Necklace 80 ck Calvin Klein ring 6460 Cartier Bracelet 574 Bulgari B Zero Ring
Leather Goods 208 Guess Medium Handbag 70 Fiorelli Medium Handbag 2125 Louis Vuitton Bag 466 Burberry Leather Drawstring Tote
Ready-to-wear 130 Levis 501 Jean 36 Primark casual dress 1736 Chloe Cotton and Silk Dress 244 Dolce and Gabbana Jeans
Champagne 52 Moet et Chandon 36 Jacquart Brut NV 228 Louis Roederer Cristal 52 Moet et Chandon
Spirits 44 Jack Daniels Whiskey 23 Plymouth Gin 157 Remy Martin Cognac 78 Chivas Regal 18yr
Cosmetics 43 Paco Rabanne Aftershave 20 Quiksilver Eau de Toilette 143 Chanel No 5 spray 100 ml 50 Gucci by Gucci Eau de Parfum
Fragrances 23 L'Oreal day skin care 10 Maybelline Lipstick 45 Yves Saint Laurent foundation 14 Mac lipstick
Mass Market Luxury Goods
August 4, 2011
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research
Exhibit 34: We estimate that the listed lux
outpace the market and grow 16% pa… GS estimates for luxury goods sector growt
Source: Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Barriers to
entry remai
Our June 2,
heritage as
believe that
significant c
Exhibit 36: Category analysis of supply fa
Source: Compiled by Goldman Sachs Research.
0
100
200
300
400
500
600
700
800
CY
199
3
CY
199
4
CY
199
5
CY
199
6
CY
199
7
CY
199
8
CY
199
9
CY
200
0
CY
200
1
CY
200
2
CY
200
3
CY
200
4
CY
200
5
CY
200
6
CY
200
7
Luxury (bo ttom up )
13.8%annual growth 7.5% annual growth
+
Constraint to growth Supply constraints
Fragrances and cosmetics
Least Preservatives, natural
products, technical
personnel
ChampagneWhiskey, Cognac, Win
Leather Goods
Tannery and
manufacturing
capacity in Italy and
France
Watches
Spirits Brand stretch Leather Goo
Ready-to-wearCotton, global brand
stretchJewellery
Champagne, Whiskey, Cognac, Wines
Reserves Ready-to-we
Jewellery
Precious gems,
diamonds,
manufacturing
capacity
Fragrances acosmetics
Watches MostMovements and
manufacturing
capacity constraints
Spirits
SUPPLY CONSTRAINTS
+
xury sector can
th
Exhibit 35: … relative to Altaga
5%-6% pa Altagamma market estimates for
Source: Altagamma.
entry: Competitive positioning of incumbents is at
n high for most categories, and the emergence of loca
, 2010 report, A trillion dollar global industry by 2025?
one of the more attractive segments from a competitiv
t in RTW and leather goods segments, a global networ
cost and brand barrier to entry.
actors: Watches, leather goods and jewellery are prefe
CY
200
8
CY
200
9
CY
201
0
CY
201
1
CY
201
2
CY
201
3
CY
201
4
16%annual growth
=Strength of
competition for International
brands
Emerging competition and barriers to entry
International brands & heritage
e,
nesLeast
Appellation d'origine
contrôlée
Scotch Whisky Act
Often origin of
production. Perrier-Jouet
est. 1811, Bushmills est.
1608, Remy Martin est.
1724
Watches Mo
"Swiss made"
watches, 50% of total
value of manufacture
must be Swiss
Vacheron Constantin est.
1755, TAG Heuer est.
1860 and Rolex est. 1905
Leather Goods
ods Made in Italy
Hermes est. 1837, Louis
Vuitton 1854 and Gucci
est. 1921
Jewellery
Less branded industry
than watches
Chaumet 1780, Cartier
est. 1847, Boucheron
1858 and Bulgari est.
1884
Champagne, Whiskey, Cognac, Wines
ear
Fashion, Chambre
Syndicale de la Haute
Couture. Changing
fashions and local
taste.
Chanel ets. 1909,
Christian Dior ets. 1946
and Givenchy est. 1952
Ready-to-wear
and Local tastes and local
brandsGuerlain est. 1828
Fragrances and cosmetics
MostLocal tastes and
heritage brandsSpirits
COMPETITIVE POSITIONING OUTLOOK R
=
Prada SpA (1913.HK)
16
mma’s growth estimate of
luxury goods sector growth
tractive. The barriers to
al competition takes time.
highlighted brands with
ve standpoint. We also
rk of stores acts a
erred segments
Sales Margins
st positive
Least
RELATIVE TO GLOBAL INDUSTRIES
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 17
The “Great Luxury Mall of China”
In our March 4, 2011 report, A multi-year opportunity delivering market-leading growth,
investment and returns, we assessed the scope for multi-year outperformance in the
European luxury goods sector. Here, we focused on the re-deployment of cash by sector,
and the potential resulting impact on growth, margins and returns. We expect €3 bn of
cash to be invested over the next five years, focused on the continued roll-out of store
networks. We estimate that, on average, the brands in our sample can grow their
networks more than ten-fold. We expect this to contribute to the €38 bn of sales growth
we forecast for the sector over the next five years.
China has just started to buy luxury: 200 mn more consumers, 84 cities and another 6,000+ stores by 2025E
We expect China to remain the engine of luxury goods growth, as consumption’s share of
domestic GDP rises (from 36.3% vs. the US’s 70.8%) and urbanization gathers pace. As a
result, we see scope for material increases in luxury goods store networks in the country.
Luxury goods companies are present in only 46 cities (out of 89). In the major Tier 1 city
centres, luxury brands have on average only three points of sale (vs. 10 per brand in
Tokyo, six in Paris and five in London). We see room for an additional 6,000+ stores in
China by 2025, 228 per brand on average. We highlight that Louis Vuitton currently
achieves sales of US$379 mn from 39 stores in Greater China.
Exhibit 37: Many brands focus on just Hong Kong,
Beijing, Shanghai % of total China stores in Hong Kong, Beijing and Shanghai,
including Hong Kong
Exhibit 38: Luxury mono-brand store penetration tends
to increase with wealth and population, implying under-
penetration of China GDP per capita (US$) vs. number of luxury stores (by city)
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Source: Li & Fung, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
The great (luxury) mall of China: How €3 bn of cash can be redeployed … at a 19%
return on cash invested
The luxury goods sector currently has high levels of cash (0.2x 2010 net debt/EBITDA vs.
1.1x net debt/EVEBITDA historically (2000-09). We expect management to redeploy cash
and invest for growth. In an industry currently generating a 19% return on cash invested,
this points to significant growth potential. We believe the main focus of this investment
will be store network growth globally. We also examine regional differences in gross
margins, and the differences in retail and wholesale margins. We expect the shift to Asia
and retail-led models to see operating margins for our coverage to increase to 24.2% by
2014 (from 20.8% today).
100%
50%
87%
65%
44%
56%
45% 44%
11%
40% 38%
25%
38%
30%
17%
50%
7%
33%29% 28%
15%20% 19%
13%
20%23%
17%23%
18%13%
18%
11%
25%
10%
19%
23%
11%
32%
13%13%
19%
13%
10%
15%
14%
14%10%
19%15%
19%
16%
11%10%
13%8%
11%
15%8%
11%
25%
13%
19%
19%
22%
9%
16%
26%
13%17%
19%
13%
15%
19%
29%
17%
7%10%
11% 10%6%
12% 10% 7%9% 8%
7%9%
8%
6%
0.0%
10.0%
20.0%
30.0%
40.0%
50.0%
60.0%
70.0%
80.0%
90.0%
100.0%
% of China stores in HK % of China stores in Beijing % of China stores in Shanghai
0
50
100
150
200
250
300
0 10000 20000 30000 40000 50000 60000 70000
Num
ber
ofst
ores
US$GDP per capita vs. Luxury store numbers
Beijing
Shanghai
Chongqing
Milan
London
Paris
Hong KongTokyo
New York
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 18
Exhibit 39: International brands have aggressively
expanded in Tier 2 and 3 cities, mainly on the east coastNumber of POS by city (2010), excluding Hong Kong
Exhibit 40: Room to expand relative to other brands
Luxury goods companies, stores in Mainland China, 2010
Source: Company data as at March 2011; rightsite.asia; chinaeconomicreview.com
Source: Company data.
A global industry set for growth: 16% pa sales growth to 2014E and increasing investment at a 19% CROCI
Relative to other global sectors, the luxury goods sector saw only a pause during the
global downturn of 2008-09. As global growth returns, we expect the global luxury
industry to begin a renewed secular growth phase, and forecast average sales growth for
our coverage of 17% in 2011 (vs. the European luxury market average of 16% and vs.
averages for the sector of 7.5% through 2004-07 and 13.8% through 1993-2000).
Luxury entering a growth phase again
Global luxury sales in 2010 were 16% (€9 bn) above the 2008 level, as the luxury industry
suffered no material impact during the global downturn. The luxury industry has
historically experienced long growth cycles (we identify 1993-2000 and 2004-07) and we
see 2011 and beyond as a continuation of the cycle.
Start of a new investment cycle for the luxury goods sector
We believe management will redeploy cash that has built up across the sector and invest
in growth. We believe high cash balances will be used to:
Increase capex – We forecast capital expenditure will increase to 7% of sales in 2011,
vs. the historical (2000-09) average of 6%, and will grow 42% yoy in 2011; this
compares with the Prada Group, where we forecast capex to grow 32% in the year to
January 2012 to represent 10% of sales.
Increase cash returns to shareholders – We forecast an increase of 2.8 pp in 2011.
Increase M&A (not applicable to Prada).
We estimate that 60%-80% of the luxury sector’s capex is on network growth, and
we expect a renewed focus on building out store networks in 2011 and beyond.
Global luxury brands: The competitive advantage
The luxury goods industry is dominated by a relatively small number of brands that share
several characteristics that create a meaningful barrier to entry while providing a platform
for outsized growth. The common characteristics of these global luxury brands are: (1)
heritage, (2) strength in multi-categories, (3) a global store network, and (4) global brand
recognition. The benefits to the brand owner can most easily be demonstrated in the
scale benefits of: (1) obtaining prime real estate and store locations, (2) scale in
106 3 4 3 2
45
3 3 3 52
21
1 2 11
2
1
35
27
25 16
71
1
1
2
Burberry Gucci LV Dior Prada Chanel Miu Miu
Beijing Shanghai Shenzhen Guandzhou Tier 2 Cities Tier 3 cities
14
4
35
40
17
8
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
40
45
Prada Miu
Miu
LV Gucci Hermes Chanel
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 19
communication, including the procurement of traditional media, and (3) global brand
recognition, which is increasingly important as many more luxury consumers also travel
internationally and as digital marketing and recognition increases its importance. A
shared strategic characteristic of these brands is that they have, and continue to take
further, control of the supply chain through increased sales through directly operated
stores, relative to sales generated through wholesale. This allows for greater control of
the brand, customer experience and, crucially, for the full capture of the margin
opportunity.
According to a study by Altagamma, the global luxury brands of scale or, so called,
‘power brands’ are luxury brands that have: (1) a global presence, (2) an extensive retail
network, and (3) a high relevance in the leather goods, shoes and accessories product
categories. Luxury “power” brands including Prada have average annual sales of c.
€1.8 bn at retail value.
Lack of an established distribution network presents a barrier to entry for potential
entrants as there is intense competition for prime locations for directly operated stores, as
well as access to wholesale distribution outlets. Established luxury brands are able to
secure prime locations which allows them to maintain their exclusivity and preserve their
prestige and identity. Particularly in China, the global luxury brands are significantly
better positioned than smaller players in their ability to obtain the best locations. Both
brand positioning and continuous and timely refurbishment of a brand’s retail network
are strategically important means to convey the desired brand image to consumers.
Luxury brands and the opportunity to roll out store networks
As discussed in our March 4, 2011 report, A multi-year opportunity delivering market-
leading growth, investment and returns, we believe that the luxury goods industry is set
to embark on a period of outsized growth, and that to capture this growth the industry will
commit to significant growth in the embedded store network on a global basis. Although
we see the most significant opportunity for store expansion to be in the growth markets,
in particular China, opportunities remain to build out store networks in developed markets,
particularly as the importance of the wholesale distribution channel diminishes. Prada
remains under-represented on a global basis relative to other global brands. The Prada
brand has 207 stores globally (vs. Louis Vuitton’s 451 and Gucci’s 317). The Miu Miu
brand being less mature has the potential to grow its store network at a relatively faster
rate, from 71 today. In China, the relative under-representation is more notable, with the
Prada Group running 14 Prada and four Miu Miu stores (vs. Louis Vuitton’s 35 and Gucci’s
40). Management expects to add c. 80 stores pa over the next three years worldwide
(from 319 today).
Luxury retail leads sales growth; margin and returns accretive
Furthermore, we believe the economics of generating sales through a directly operated
network of stores can be accretive to sales, margins and returns on capital invested. This
is particularly the case in two core markets: China and the US. In the former, the
availability of suitable retail space combined with the attractiveness of the global luxury
brands to shopping mall developers has meant that the capital cost and rental structures
are more favourable to running stores in China than any other major market. We believe
that while the payback on investment can be as high as three years in traditional markets,
many luxury brands are generating a payback of less than 12 months; hence store
openings are often accretive to growth and returns in months rather than years. In the
latter market, the luxury “power” brands continue to look to change their relationships
with the dominant department store channel.
Increasingly, brands such as Prada are being able to transfer their business from a
traditional wholesale relationship to one where the brand owner directly operates a shop
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 20
within the department store. Again, this expansion of margins comes at a relatively low
capital commitment.
Prada sales, in our view, should continue to grow rapidly
We believe that Prada will benefit from a number of growth drivers over the next few
years. These four areas represent the key performance indicators for the company.
Continuing to expand the DOS (directly operated store) network – we
forecast sales from DOS to increase to 84% of net sales in FY2014 from 71% in
FY2011. This is driven by the 80 store pa expansion plans over the next three
years. We expect the 14% annual growth from additional space to be
complemented by 10% like for like sales growth. At the same time, we expect the
Prada Group to continue to selectively reduce wholesale accounts mainly in
Europe and the US; we forecast a 4% average annual decline in wholesale
revenues in the period FY2011-14, to reach €538 mn in FY2014 (this follows a 10%
annual decline in the period FY2009-11).
Strengthening global coverage – we forecast sales from Asia ex-Japan to
increase to 44% from 32% of net sales on a sustained 30% top-line CAGR
(FY2011-14).
Capture the strong growth potential of Miu Miu – we forecast Miu Miu sales
to increase to €718 mn in FY2014 from €353 mn in FY2011, at a 27% CAGR, to
represent 21% of net sales (from 17%). We forecast this growth to be supported
by a more than doubling of stores to 189 from 77.
Continue to improve margins and profitability – we forecast EBITDA margins
to expand to 31.3% in FY2014 from 26.2% in FY2011 and that this will support a
33% CAGR in net income.
Exhibit 41: Asia to become largest market by FY2014E Asia Pacific (ex-Japan) as % of total net sales
Exhibit 42: Retail revenues to reach 84% of net sales DOS as % of total net sales
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
0%
5%
10%
15%
20%
25%
30%
35%
40%
45%
50%
2009 2010 2011 2012E 2013E 2014E
0%
10%
20%
30%
40%
50%
60%
70%
80%
90%
2009 2010 2011 2012E 2013E 2014E
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 21
Exhibit 43: Miu Miu to double revenues, to account for
21% of net sales by FY2014E Miu Miu as % of total of net sales
Exhibit 44: EBITDA margins to improve to above 30%
EBITDA (€ mn) and margin (FY2009-14E)
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
0%
5%
10%
15%
20%
25%
2009 2010 2011 2012E 2013E 2014E
283 290
536
715
893
1091
0%
5%
10%
15%
20%
25%
30%
35%
0
200
400
600
800
1000
1200
2009 2010 2011 2012E 2013E 2014E
EBITDA EBITDA margin
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 22
Prada Group snapshot by brand, geography, category and channel
Prada’s business can be described through four categorizations, by brand, category,
geography and channel.
Exhibit 45: Prada Group sales have grown 8% pa since
2005 Prada Group sales, € mn and % growth pa FY05-FY2014E
Exhibit 46: Prada Group EBIT has grown 34% pa since
2005 Prada Group EBIT, € mn and % margin pa FY05-FY2014E
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Brand analysis: Prada and Miu Miu
The Prada and Miu Miu brands generated €1,969 mn of revenues and €531 mn of EBITDA
in FY2011. This represented 96% and 99% of the group total. Prada is the more
established brand, having been founded in 1913, and has a global network of 207 stores.
Miu Miu was established in 1993 and is less mature than Prada, but has reached a scale
that has seen its growth outpace the Prada brand for the last two years.
Exhibit 47: Prada and Miu Miu generate 96% of revenues
Sales mix by brand, FY2011
Exhibit 48: Miu Miu the fastest growing brand in the
group Sales mix progression
Source: Company data.
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
-10.0%
-5.0%
0.0%
5.0%
10.0%
15.0%
20.0%
25.0%
30.0%
35.0%
0
500
1000
1500
2000
2500
3000
3500
4000
Sales growth
0.0%
5.0%
10.0%
15.0%
20.0%
25.0%
30.0%
0
100
200
300
400
500
600
700
800
900
1000
EBIT growth
Prada, 79%
Miu Miu,
17%
Church's,
3%
Car Shoe,
1%Others, 0%
79% 79% 79% 78% 77% 76%
15% 16% 17% 19% 20% 21%
0%
10%
20%
30%
40%
50%
60%
70%
80%
90%
100%
2009 2010 2011 2012E 2013E 2014E
Prada Miu Miu Church's Car Shoe Others
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 23
Prada brand
The Prada brand was created in 1913 by Mr Mario Prada and has since become one of the
most widely recognized brands in the fashion and luxury goods industry. The Prada brand
grew top-line 30% in FY2011 and generated total revenues of €1,615 mn. As of January 31,
2011, Prada had a sales network of 207 DOS and more than 700 wholesale clients
(representing approximately 1,000 doors) worldwide, among which there were 19 DOS in
Italy, 46 DOS in the rest of Europe, 26 DOS in North America, 43 DOS in Japan and 73
DOS in Asia Pacific.
Leather Goods. These account for 50% of Prada brand sales, €786 mn, and grew
42% in FY2011. The Prada brand originated with leather goods, and now mainly
includes handbags, travel bags and accessories, such as leather gloves, wallets,
key rings, belts and other leather accessories. The brand is recognized with its
trademark triangular Prada logo or the Prada “Savoy coat of arms”. Two of
Prada’s best known ranges are its black nylon items made from a waterproof
nylon fabric, which are also offered in different colors, shapes and sizes, and the
“Saffiano” leather handbags and accessories.
RTW. This category accounts for 26% of Prada brand sales, €420 mn, and grew
21% in FY2011. It comprises Prada-branded ready-to-wear for both women and
men. The womenswear collection was launched in 1988 and menswear collection
in 1993.
Footwear. Accounting for 23% of Prada brand sales, €366 mn, this category grew
23% in FY2011. Prada brand women’s footwear was first introduced in 1982 and
men’s footwear was introduced in 1993 along with its first men’s ready-to-wear
collection.
Miu Miu
Named after Ms Miuccia Prada, the President of the Prada Group, Miu Miu was created in
1993 as a separate womenswear focused brand that has since evolved into a leading high
fashion brand. The group has made major efforts since 2005 to enhance the Miu Miu
brand’s independent identity. This has included moving Miu Miu’s commercial
headquarters into a historic building in Milan separate from Prada’s offices, moving Miu
Miu’s fashion shows from Milan to Paris, and eliminating the men’s collection to focus on
building the brand’s image.
The Miu Miu brand grew top-line 40% in FY2011 and generated sales of €353 mn. As of
January 31, 2011, Miu Miu had a global sales network of 71 DOS and 300 wholesale
clients (representing almost 500 doors), including eight DOS in Italy, 18 DOS in the rest of
Europe, seven DOS in North America, 13 DOS in Japan and 25 DOS in Asia Pacific.
Leather Goods. These make up 64% of Miu Miu brand sales, €224 mn, and grew 45%
in FY2011. The Miu Miu leather goods, including handbags and accessories such as
wallets, belts and gloves, constitute the majority of the brand’s sales.
RTW. This category accounts for 18% of Miu Miu brand sales, €63 mn, and grew 36%
in FY2011. Miu Miu’s ready-to-wear collections for women were first introduced in
1993.
Footwear. Accounting for 18% of Miu Miu brand sales, €64 mn, this category grew
27% in FY2011. Miu Miu women’s footwear is designed to complement the ready-to-
wear collections.
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 24
Church’s
A family-run business founded in 1873 in Northampton, England, Church’s has long been
a leader in men’s handmade luxury footwear. Prada acquired 100% control of Church’s in
May 2007 from Prada Holding B.V.
The Church’s brand grew 21% in FY2011 and generated sales of €53 mn. As of January 31,
2011, Church’s had a global sales network of 36 DOS and approximately 600 wholesale
clients (representing more than 700 doors), with seven DOS in Italy, 24 DOS in the rest of
Europe, one DOS in North America and four DOS in Asia Pacific.
Products. Church’s is most famous for its classic men’s leather shoes, which are
mainly handmade at its Northampton factory. Church’s also sells women’s shoes,
which are mainly manufactured at one of the group’s manufacturing facilities in Italy
where some of the Prada-branded shoes are also produced. In addition to shoes,
Church’s offers leather goods for both men and women, such as briefcases, wallets
and document holders, and a small line of ready-to-wear for men, such as raincoats,
shirts, neckties and socks, which are outsourced and licensed to third-party producers
in the UK. Church’s also offers “made-to-order” shoes and a shoe repair service.
Car Shoe
Car Shoe was founded in 1963 and specializes in luxury driving shoes. Prada completed
the acquisition of 100% of Car Shoe in June 2010.
Car Shoe brand revenues declined 3% in FY2011 and generated sales of €18 mn. As of
January 31, 2011, Car Shoe had a global sales network of five DOS and approximately 280
wholesale clients (representing more than 300 doors), with three DOS in Italy, one DOS in
Hong Kong and one DOS in Singapore.
Products. Car Shoe offers luxury driving shoes with rubber studded soles. In recent
years, Car Shoe has developed new footwear models which are available for men and
women in a wide range of colors and leather materials in both classic and modern
design variations. The Car Shoe product range has been extended to other leather
goods, such as bags and accessories.
Exhibit 49: Price and style positioning, Prada and Miu Miu have higher fashion content
and a more exclusive positioning
Source: Company data.
Classic Contemporary Fashion
Acc
essi
ble
Asp
irat
iona
lA
bsol
ute
Church's
Car Shoe
Prada
Miu Miu
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 25
Exhibit 50: Leather goods the largest category at the
Prada brand… Prada brand, FY2011
Exhibit 51: … as is the case at Miu Miu
Miu Miu, FY2011
Source: Company data.
Source: Company data.
Exhibit 52: Prada brand to grow an average 17% pa to
reach €2.6 bn sales (FY2011-14E) Prada sales progression, € mn
Exhibit 53: Miu Miu to grow an average 27% pa to reach
€720 mn sales (FY2011-14E) Miu Miu sales progression, € mn
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Clothing
26%
Leather
goods
50%
Footwear
23%
Others
1%
Clothing
18%
Leather
goods64%
Footwear
18%
Others
0%
0
500
1000
1500
2000
2500
3000
FY
09
FY
10
FY
11
FY
12E
FY
13E
FY
14E 0
100
200
300
400
500
600
700
800FY
09
FY
10
FY
11
FY
12E
FY
13E
FY
14E
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 26
Prada and Miu Miu: Competitor analysis
Prada operates within the luxury goods market alongside other global brands including
Armani, Chanel, Christian Dior, Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Bottega Veneta and YSL.
Prada and Miu Miu have the highest worldwide recognition of the group’s brands.
Absolute sales, absolute profit. The Prada Group generated €2.1 bn of revenues in
FY2011 and €536 mn of EBITDA. This compares to Louis Vuitton Fashion and Leather
Goods €7.6 bn and €2.6 bn (EBIT), Gucci Group €4.0 bn and €897 mn (EBITA) and
Hermes €2.4 bn and €762 mn (EBITDA).
Exhibit 54: Prada is one of the largest leading luxury
companies… Sales, 2010 (€ mn)
Exhibit 55: … yet it currently generates lower margins
than best-in-class EBIT 2010 (€ mn)
Source: Company data.
Source: Company data.
Absolute sales to Asia ex-Japan, and % of total sales. Prada Group sales to Asia
ex-Japan were €646 mn in FY2011 and represented 32% of sales. Louis Vuitton and
Gucci have higher absolute sales to the region, at €2.2 bn (30%) and €1.2 bn (30%)
respectively. However, as a proportion of revenues this is one of the highest among
the luxury peer group, with only Gucci 34% and the hard luxury Richemont 34% and
Swatch 44% having greater sales exposure to the fastest growing region for luxury
goods.
Category split: Leather goods sales and as % of sales. The Prada Group generates
€1.0 bn of revenues from leather goods, or 50% of group sales. This compares most
closely to Gucci (€2.2 bn and 55%) and Hermes (€1.2 bn and 50%).
Store network – globally and in Asia, absolute and growth. The Prada brand has
207 stores globally, less than many of the other leading luxury brands. LVMH Fashion
and Leather 1,188 (Louis Vuitton brand 451) and Gucci Group 684 (Gucci brand 317)
have significantly more stores. In Asia ex-Japan, the under penetration is all the more
stark, 73 vs. Louis Vuitton brand 93 and Gucci brand 110. We note the Miu Miu is a
maturing brand with great potential to grow stores, currently 71 globally and four in
Mainland China. In terms of store growth, Prada is more active, having added 30
stores in FY2011 and planning 80 stores in FY2012-14. This compares to LVMH
Fashion and Leather 24 (Louis Vuitton brand five) in 2010, likewise Gucci Group 75
(Gucci brand 34) in 2010.
Channel mix: Retail as % of sales. The Prada Group generates 71% of sales from its
own retail network. Some brands are fully vertically integrated, notably Louis Vuitton
with c.95% of sales generated through its own retail network. Prada is closer to Gucci
(73%) and Hermes (77%) and is ahead of brands such as Tods (51%), Burberry (63%)
and the hard luxury companies Richemont (50%) and Swatch (17%).
0
1000
2000
3000
4000
5000
6000
7000
8000
0%5%10%15%20%25%30%35%40%
0
500
1000
1500
2000
2500
3000
EBIT EBIT margin
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 27
Exhibit 56: Prada Group brands compete in five core segments Category analysis of major luxury brands
Source: Goldman Sachs Research based on Altagamma data.
Exhibit 57: Prada could increase its retail mix Luxury goods companies, wholesale-retail split, last reported
Exhibit 58: Prada and Miu Miu both under-represented in
store numbers Total number of DOS by brand
Source: Company data.
Source: Company data.
Exhibit 59: Prada has a high proportion of sales from Asia
Luxury goods companies, regional split, 2010
Exhibit 60: Prada has a high proportion of sales from
leather goods Luxury goods companies, product split, 2010
Source: Company data.
Source: Company data.
Leather
goods
Women's
shoes
Men's
shoes
Women's
RTW
Men's
ApparelSilk Underwear Perfumes
Hard
Luxury
Prada
Miu Miu
Church's
Car Shoe
Armani
Burberry
Calvin Klein
Chanel
Christian Dior
Coach
Dolce & Gabbana
Gucci
Hermes
Hugo Boss
Louis Vuitton
Polo Ralph Lauren
Most significant Least significant
71%
~95%
73% 77% 63% 51% 50%
17%
29%
~5%
27% 23% 23% 23% 23%
23%
0%
10%
20%
30%
40%
50%
60%
70%
80%
90%
100%
Wholesale Retail
207
71
451
317
193175
148 145
0
50
100
150
200
250
300
350
400
450
500
Prada Miu Miu Louis
Vuitton
Gucci Hermes Dior Bottega
Veneta
Chanel
32% 30% 36%26% 20% 28%
18%27% 25%
13%34%
44%
42%29%
30%38% 54%
51% 75%
35% 45%43%
41%
45%
11%
16%12% 19%
10%
19%8%
12%
15%18% 18% 16%
17%
11% 7%13%
28% 44%
14% 8%0% 7% 4% 1% 9% 7%
‐6%
0% 0% 2%
‐20%
0%
20%
40%
60%
80%
100%
Prada Group
LVMH Fashion
Gucci
Herm
es
Arm
ani
Dior
Tod's
Bulgari
Burberry
Pandora
Richemont
Swatch
Asia (ex Japan) Europe Japan North America RoW
24%
59%
14%30%
13%
50%55%
50%
16%
25%
14%
72%6%
8% 8%
7%
25%6%
1% 3% 9% 6%
0%
10%
20%
30%
40%
50%
60%
70%
80%
90%
100%
Prada
Arm
ani
Gucci
Herm
es
Tod's
RTW Leather Shoes Hard Luxury Eyewear P&C Other
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 28
Geographical analysis: Growth markets the focus
Prada Group is well exposed to the growth markets for luxury goods, notably Asia ex-
Japan, which represents 32% of net sales and on our forecasts will account for 43% of
sales by FY2014. We forecast Asia ex-Japan to be the fastest growing region in FY2011-14,
expanding at 30% pa. We expect revenues from the other major regions to grow at an
average of 14% pa.
Exhibit 61: 32% of sales generated from Asia ex-Japan…Sales mix by geography, FY2011
Exhibit 62: … set to grow to 42% of sales by FY2014E Sales mix progression by geography
Source: Company data.
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Exhibit 63: Sales in Asia to increase 400% FY2009-14E…
Prada Group sales in Asia (ex Japan), € mn
Exhibit 64: … from a low base to grow to €925 mn in
China Prada Group sales in Mainland and Greater China, € mn
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Italy, 19%
Europe,
22%
North
America,
15%
Asia-Pacific,
32%
Japan, 11%Others, 1%
0%
10%
20%
30%
40%
50%
60%
70%
80%
90%
100%
2009 2010 2011 2012E 2013E 2014E
Italy Europe North America Asia-Pacific Japan Others
0%
10%
20%
30%
40%
50%
60%
70%
0
200
400
600
800
1000
1200
1400
1600
2009 2010 2011 2012E 2013E 2014E
A-Pac sales Growth
0
100
200
300
400
500
600
700
800
900
1000
2009 2010 2011 2012E 2013E 2014E
Mainland China Hong Kong / Macau
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 29
Category analysis: Leather goods to outpace
The Prada Group is well exposed to one of the fastest growing segments for luxury goods,
leather goods, which represents 50% of net sales and on our forecasts will represent 53%
of sales by FY2014. We estimate growth in the leather goods segment at 9.4% pa to 2015,
relative to overall luxury market growth of 9% pa. We expect leather goods to be the
fastest growing category in FY2011-14 for Prada Group, with top-line expansion at 20% pa.
We expect the other major categories, RTW and footwear, to grow revenues 17% and 15%
pa, respectively.
Exhibit 65: Ready-to-wear and leather goods to grow ahead of the wider luxury sector
Luxury sales growth by category, 1995 to 2025, US$ bn
Source: Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Exhibit 66: Leather goods 50% of sales…
Sales mix by product line, FY2011
Exhibit 67: … and to remain the fastest growing segment
Sales mix progression
Source: Company data.
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
13
31
115
11
25
95
0
20
40
60
80
100
120
140
1995
1996
1997
1998
1999
2000
2001
2002
2003
2004
2005
2006
2007
2008
2009
2010
2011
2012
2013
2014
2015
2016
2017
2018
2019
2020
2021
2022
2023
2024
2025
in U
S$
bn
Ready-to-wear Leather Goods
Growth rates, CAGR, %
'95-'10 '10-'25EGlobal 5.8% 9.0%
Luxurysales
Ready-to 5.6% 9.2%
-wear
Leather 5.9% 9.4%
goods
RTW, 24%
Leather
goods, 50%
Footwear,
25%
Others, 1%
0%
10%
20%
30%
40%
50%
60%
70%
80%
90%
100%
2009 2010 2011 2012E 2013E 2014E
RTW Leather goods Footwear Others
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 30
Exhibit 68: For Prada Group, leather goods, RTW and footwear are by far the most significant product categories
Source: Company data.
Core Non‐core
Product category
RTW
Leather, shoes & other accessories
Watches, jewelry & writing instruments
Perfume & cosmetics
Art de la table
Others
Womenswear
Menswear
Underwear
Leather goods
Women's shoes
Men's shoes
Silk accessories
Watches
Jewelry
Writing instruments
Lighters
Perfume
Cosmetics
Eyewear
Core
Core
License
License
Product category Segments Presence of Prada Group Prada division
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 31
Other categories: Eyewear and fragrances
Eyewear. Prada entered into a licensing agreement with Luxottica in 2003 for the
production and worldwide distribution of eyewear products under the Prada and Miu Miu
trademarks for a term of ten years up to December 31, 2013. Prada, through its licence
agreement with Luxottica, sells 2.5 mn units pa. Luxottica has an option exercisable prior
to December 31, 2012 to renew the license agreement for an additional term of five years
to December 31, 2018. Prada generated €24 mn in royalties from this license agreement in
FY2011.
Fragrances. In 2003, Prada also granted a worldwide exclusive licence agreement to
Fragrance and Skincare S.L., a joint venture established with Puig, a major cosmetics
company in Spain, for the production and worldwide distribution of fragrances and
cosmetics under the Prada trademark for a term of 15 years. In February 23, 2011, the JV
was disposed by Prada and became a wholly owned subsidiary of Puig. Prada received
€3.5 mn proceeds for the disposal. The licence agreement was amended for a term of ten
years starting January 31, 2011, and is subject to a further 10 years’ automatic renewal.
Prada generated €4 mn in royalties from this licence agreement in FY2011.
Sales by gender
On a global basis, we estimate that Prada is split 70:30 between womenswear and
menswear. However, we believe that in China this is closer to 50:50.
Exhibit 69: RTW to grow 16% pa to €757 mn
Clothing sales progression, € mn
Exhibit 70: Leather goods to grow 22% pa to €1,836 mn
Leather goods sales progression, € mn
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Exhibit 71: Footwear to grow 14% pa to €745 mn Footwear sales progression, € mn
Exhibit 72: Other products to grow 7% pa to €23 mn Other product lines sales progression, € mn
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
0
100
200
300
400
500
600
700
800
2009 2010 2011 2012E 2013E 2014E0
200
400
600
800
1000
1200
1400
1600
1800
2000
2009 2010 2011 2012E 2013E 2014E
0
100
200
300
400
500
600
700
800
2009 2010 2011 2012E 2013E 2014E 0
5
10
15
20
25
2009 2010 2011 2012E 2013E 2014E
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 32
Channel analysis: Retail core to growth strategy
The mix of the business continues to shift to retail, away from wholesale, as Prada
management continues to expand the store network while actively reducing the
wholesale business in some core markets. We expect this trend to continue.
Retail. Retail revenues accounted for 71% of total sales in FY2011, having grown from
54% of sales in FY2009 at an average rate of 28% pa to FY2011. This growth has been
driven in part by the opening of an additional 82 stores (FY2009-11) combined with
double-digit LFL sales growth. We forecast that the addition of 80 stores pa in FY2011-14
will contribute to growth from new space of 16% pa which, when complemented by 10%
LFL growth, will lead to Retail generating 86% of total revenues by FY2014.
Wholesale. Concurrently, we expect wholesale revenues to continue to decline, with the
number of franchised stores falling from 33 to 23 (FY2011-14E) and the number of
wholesale doors continuing to fall (having been reduced by 20% over the last three years).
Wholesale revenues were 29% of sales in FY2011, €590 mn, and have declined by an
average 10% pa since FY2009. We expect this trend to continue with sales falling 6% pa to
reach €482 mn by FY2014E.
E-commerce. The Prada Group currently generates less than 1% of net revenues from e-
commerce. We expect rapid growth in this channel, although we expect sales to remain
below 10% of net revenues during the forecast period.
Exhibit 73: Retail accounts for 71% of total sales…
Sales mix by distribution network, FY2011
Exhibit 74: … and we expect this to grow to 86% by
FY2014 Sales mix progression by distribution network
Source: Company data.
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Exhibit 75: Retail sales to grow 26% pa to reach €2.9 bn
DOS – outlets included, nos
Exhibit 76: Wholesale revenues to decline 4% pa
Independent clients, franchises and relative parties, nos
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
DOS, 71%
Wholesale,
29%
0%
10%
20%
30%
40%
50%
60%
70%
80%
90%
100%
2009 2010 2011 2012E 2013E 2014E
DOS Wholesale
0
500
1000
1500
2000
2500
3000
3500
2009 2010 2011 2012E 2013E 2014E
0
100
200
300
400
500
600
700
800
2009 2010 2011 2012E 2013E 2014E
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 33
Growth strategy: Rolling out the store network
Key to Prada’s growth strategy is its plans to accelerate store openings to 80 stores pa in
FY2011-14. We believe the 14% pa space growth should allow the Prada Group to grow
faster than its luxury peers during the forecast period.
Split by brand, the group expects to open the same number of Prada and Miu Miu stores.
By region, the Prada Group expects to open 25 stores pa in Asia ex-Japan (30 in Greater
China over the next three years), approximately 25 in the Middle East and around 15 in
Russia over the next three years. In total, we estimate that the split of store openings
could be 40 stores pa in growth markets and 40 stores pa in traditional markets.
We summarise the store growth opportunity below by type of market and by brand.
Type of market:
Growth markets: We forecast that the majority of the store openings for the
group will be in Asia Pacific, 30 openings pa.
New markets: Prada intends to open stores in the Middle East, Brazil, India and
Indonesia.
US: Prada continues its strategy of replacing the wholesale network in the US
with directly operated stores. In FY2011, it opened a net 13 new stores in the US.
We forecast 15 new stores pa in the US, in the period FY2011-14 from both
brands, to reach a network of 79 stores by FY2014.
Europe: In a similar fashion to the strategy employed in the US, Prada continues
to reduce the number of wholesale accounts. Whereas in the US, the transfer
from wholesale to retail does not mean a change in physical location, rather a
different contractual agreement with the department stores, in Europe the
strategy will be based on opening new stores to replace the wholesale business
in select locations.
By brand:
Prada brand. The store concept is iconic green wall and ceiling and checkered
marble flooring within flagship stores. We forecast a net 38 new store openings
pa to grow the network to 333 stores in FY2014E (from 207 at year-end FY2011).
Miu Miu. The store concept is based on contrasting classic materials, such as
golden damask, with modern futuristic elements. We forecast a net 38 new store
openings pa to grow the network to 189 stores in FY2014E (from 71 at year-end
FY2011).
Church’s. We forecast a net two new store openings pa to grow the network to
42 stores in FY2014E (from 36 at year-end FY2011).
Car Shoe. We forecast a net one new store opening pa to grow the network to
nine stores in FY2014E (from five at year-end FY2011).
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 34
Prada brand and Miu Miu under-penetrated relative to luxury peers
Exhibit 77: Prada Group under-represented in stores in
Asia… Luxury goods companies, stores in Asia ex-Japan, 2010
Exhibit 78: … and Mainland China…
Luxury goods companies, stores in Mainland China, 2010
Source: Company data.
Source: Company data.
Exhibit 79: … and in Europe… Luxury goods companies, stores in Europe inc Italy, 2010
Exhibit 80: … and in North America Luxury goods companies, stores in North America, 2010
Source: Company data.
Source: Company data.
73
25
93
110
64
38
0
20
40
60
80
100
120
Prada Miu
Miu
LV Gucci Hermes Chanel
14
4
35
40
17
8
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
40
45
Prada Miu
Miu
LV Gucci Hermes Chanel
65
26
105
7970
51
0
20
40
60
80
100
120
Prada Miu
Miu
LV Gucci Hermes Chanel
26
7
129
64
33 31
0
20
40
60
80
100
120
140
Prada Miu
Miu
LV Gucci Hermes Chanel
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 35
Prada brand compares favourably on capex and sales per store
Exhibit 81: Prada capex per store below other brands…
Capex per new store, € mn
Exhibit 82: … but revenue per store is similar to the
average Sales per store, € mn
Source: Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Source: Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Store growth to be led by Prada and Miu Miu, particularly in Asia
Exhibit 83: 319 DOS at January 31, 2011…
Stores by brand and geography, FY2011
Exhibit 84: … to grow to 569 in FY2014E
Stores by brand, FY2011
Source: Company data
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Exhibit 85: DOS to open in growth and mature markets Stores by geography
Exhibit 86: The majority of the openings in Asia Net store openings by geography
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
0.0
0.5
1.0
1.5
2.0
2.5
3.0
3.5
4.0
4.5
5.0
Tod's Burberry Prada Bulgari Hermes LVMH
fashion
and
leather
0.0
1.0
2.0
3.0
4.0
5.0
6.0
7.0
8.0
9.0
Burberry Tods Bulgari Prada Hermes LVMH
fashion
and
leather
2619
46
73
43
78
18
25
13
17
24
4
3
2
0
20
40
60
80
100
120
N A
meri
ca
Italy
Eu
rop
e
Asia
-Pacif
ic
Jap
an
Prada Miu Miu Church's Car Shoe
154 166 177207
251292
3332736
51
71
109
147
185
2834
34
36
38
40
42
22
3
5
7
8
9
0
100
200
300
400
500
6002008
2009
2010
2011
2012E
2013E
2014E
Prada Miu Miu Church's Car Shoe
28 31 31 37 40 43 4649 63 73
88 108 128 148
1920 21
3449
6479
6472
87
104
134
164
194
5152
53
56
58
60
62
0
100
200
300
400
500
600
2008
2009
2010
2011
2012E
2013E
2014E
Italy Europe North America Asia-Pacific Japan
3 06 3 3 3
14
10
15 20 20 20
1
1
1315 15 15
815
17
30 30 30
1 1
3
2 2 2
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
2009
2010
2011
2012E
2013E
2014E
Italy Europe North America Asia-Pacific Japan
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 36
Luxury stores: The opportunity for the Prada Group in China
Compared with other luxury and consumer brands in China, Prada’s and Miu Miu’s store
growth opportunity stands out. The Prada Group operates 14 Prada stores and four Miu
Miu stores in Mainland China. This compares to Louis Vuitton’s 35, Gucci’s 40, Alfred
Dunhill’s 91 and Burberry’s 50.
Prada’s stores are also concentrated in the three major centres of Beijing, Shanghai and
Hong Kong (over 60% of Prada’s stores and 75% of Miu Miu’s stores). Many other luxury
brands, including the global luxury brands, have a more diverse geographical spread of
sales. Luxury brands have increasingly identified opportunities to grow outside the major
centres into Tier 2 and 3 cities. For example, Gucci has less than 50% of its stores in
Beijing, Shanghai and Hong Kong, while Louis Vuitton has 84% of its store network
outside these three cities. We believe this represents an opportunity for the Prada Group,
particularly when considering that the global luxury brands often open stores in clusters
and are encouraged, through incentives, to do so by real estate or mall developers.
On a global basis, Prada also has a relatively low proportion of stores in Greater and
Mainland China relative to its global network, with only 6% of its network in China. A re-
balancing to increased stores in China and additional stores outside the Tier 1 cities will
see Prada moving more in line with its closest peers.
Exhibit 87: Prada the clear laggard to luxury “power”
brands in Mainland China…
No. of stores in mainland China
Exhibit 88: … and the current network heavily skewed to
Beijing, Shanghai and Hong Kong
% of total China store network in Beijing, Shanghai and HK
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates (for collection of store numbers, where not officially disclosed).
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates (for collection of store numbers, where not officially disclosed).
77
58 58
49 48 46
40
34 33 3128 28 26
21 20 19 17 16 15 15 14 13 12 129 7 4 4 2 2 1
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
Fo
lli Fo
llie
Alf
red
Du
nh
ill
Hu
go
Bo
ss
Ferr
ag
am
o
Cerr
uti
Bu
rberr
y
Mo
ntb
lan
c
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uis
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itto
n
Cart
ier
Arm
an
i
Gu
cci
Co
ach
Lan
cel
To
d's
Herm
es
Vers
ace
Ken
zo
Fen
di
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tteg
a V
en
eta
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fan
y
Pra
da
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ch
y
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nn
a K
ara
n
Bu
lgari
Ch
loe
Ch
an
el
Bale
ncia
ga
Miu
Miu
YS
L
Ralp
h L
au
ren
Ro
ger
Viv
ier
100%
50%
87%
65%
44%
60%
45% 44%
11%
40%38%
25%
35%30%
17%
50%
7%
33%29% 28%
15%20% 19%
13%
20%23%
17%23%
18%13%
18%
11%
25%
10%
19%
23%
11%
32%
13%13%
19%
13%
10%
15%
14%
14%10%
19%15%
19%
16%
11%10%
13%
8%
11%
15%8%
11%
25%
13%
19%
19%20%
9%
16%
26%
13%17%
19%13%
15%
19%
29%
17%
7%10%
11% 10%6%
12% 10% 7%9% 8%
7%9%
8%
6%
0.0%
10.0%
20.0%
30.0%
40.0%
50.0%
60.0%
70.0%
80.0%
90.0%
100.0%
% of China stores in HK % of China stores in Beijing % of China stores in Shanghai
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 37
Exhibit 89: Prada has 6% of its stores in Mainland China
2010
Exhibit 90: Prada is well represented in major global
centres 2010
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates (for collection of store numbers, where not officially disclosed).
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates (for collection of store numbers, where not officially disclosed).
Exhibit 91: Luxury Goods in Mainland China – store locations
Source: Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
14.8%
11.9%
10.5%
7.2%6.8%
5.9% 5.6%
4.1%3.6%
0.0%
2.0%
4.0%
6.0%
8.0%
10.0%
12.0%
14.0%
16.0%To
d's
Ric
he
mo
nt
Bu
rbe
rry
Gu
cci g
rou
p
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da
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rme
s
Miu
Miu
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lga
ri
LV
MH
78
65
11
3 33 3
5
2
4
0
2
3
6
5
2
10
3 3
0
2
4
6
8
10
12
New York Paris London Milan Tokyo Beijing Shanghai
Prada Miu Miu Average no. of stores per brand
Prada LV Bulgari Chanel Tod's Tiffany Piaget Versace Chloe Bally Kenzo
Folli
Follie Hermes
Bottega
Veneta Fendi
Jean
Paul
Gaultier
Beijing x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x
Shanghai x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x
Dalian x x x x x x x x x
Guangzhou x x x x x x x x x
Shenzhen x x x x x x x x x x x x
Chengdu x x x x x x x x x x x x x x
Xiamen x x
Xian x x x x x x x x x
Hangzhou x x x x x x x x x x x x x
Qingdao x x x x x x x x x
Wenzhou x x x x
Kunming x x x x x x x x
Shenyang x x x x x x x x x x x x
Nanjing x x x x x x x x x
Tianjin x x x x x x x x x x x x
Sanya x x
Changchun x x x x x
Suzhou x x x x x x x x x x x
Changsha x x x x x x
Urumqi x x
Wuhan x x x x
Taiyuan x x x x x
Wuxi x x x x x x x x x
Harbin x x x x x x x x
Ningbo x x x
Hohhot x x x
Fuzhou x x x x x
Nanning x x x x
Zhenzhou x x x x x
Chongqing x x x
Changzhou x x
Guiyang x
Jinan x x
Yantai x
Yiwu x
Shijiazhuang x
Taizhou (Zhejiang)
Anshan x
Ordos x
Tangshan x
Urumqi x
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 38
Exhibit 92: Asia Pacific to see store growth of 90
Stores by geography, 2011-2014E
Exhibit 93: Prada to add 126 stores, Miu Miu 114 stores
Stores by brand, 2011-2014E
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Profit drivers: Mix analysis, margin initiatives and leverage
As well as benefitting from strong growth in global luxury markets, as outlined
earlier, we see scope for the Prada Group to outperform through the acceleration of
the store roll-out programme, not only to grow revenues but also to expand
margins and returns. We forecast the Prada Group to generate EBITDA margins and
ROCE above 30% by FY2014E (from 26.2% and 27.7%, respectively, in FY2011).
Luxury retail leads sales growth: Margin and returns accretive
The luxury goods sector has been through a process of vertical integration whereby an
increasing proportion of revenues are being generated through directly operated stores
relative to the traditional wholesale accounts.
As we highlighted in our March 4, 2011, report, A multi-year opportunity delivering
market-leading growth, investment and returns, we believe the economics of generating
sales through a directly operated network of stores can be accretive to sales, margins and
returns on capital invested.
Retail-led growth a preferred strategy for the brands that can
For the brand owner, the benefits of a strategy to increase sales through directly operated
stores relative those generated through franchise stores or wholesale are:
control of brand;
control of markdown;
control of customer experience;
stores act as an effective brand extension and marketing tool; and
full capture of the retail margin, which can be 20%-40% depending on the product
line, category or geography.
569
319
960
45
90
640
0
100
200
300
400
500
600
2011
Italy
Eu
rop
e
No
rth
Am
eri
ca
Asia
-Pacif
ic
Jap
an
Oth
ers
2014E
565
319
126
114
6 4
0
100
200
300
400
500
600
2011
Pra
da
Miu
Miu
Ch
urc
h's
Car
Sh
oe
2014E
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 39
Exhibit 94: We believe that variances in regional pricing…
Luxury average selling price, Europe indexed to 100
Exhibit 95: … drive higher gross margins in Asia…
Average retail gross margin by region, %
Source: Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Source: Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Exhibit 96: … higher retail gross margins…
Average gross margin by channel, %
Exhibit 97: … have helped lift industry gross margins
Luxury goods sector gross margins, %
Source: Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Source: Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
100
105
140
134
114
60
70
80
90
100
110
120
130
140
150
Europe US Japan China Other
Average selling price
64.6%
73.8%
75.0%
66.5%
69.2%
68.3%
58.0%
60.0%
62.0%
64.0%
66.0%
68.0%
70.0%
72.0%
74.0%
76.0%
Europe Asia Pacific Japan Americas Other Top down
Retail gross margin, %
68.2%
59.6%
54.0%
56.0%
58.0%
60.0%
62.0%
64.0%
66.0%
68.0%
70.0%
Gross margin mix
Retail vs. wholesale gross margin, %
62.8%
63.0%
63.4%
63.8%
64.2% 64.2%
65.4%
65.7%
66.1%
66.4%
66.8%
60.0%
61.0%
62.0%
63.0%
64.0%
65.0%
66.0%
67.0%
68.0%
2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011E 2012E 2013E 2014E
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 40
Prada Group: Operating margins to be driven up by positive mix,
scale and organic initiatives
We identify three key levers for Prada's operating margin progression:
Improving mix of the business by channel, region and geography (FY2009-11
+360bp, FY2011-14E +380bp).
Organic initiatives and leverage (FY2009-11 +400bp, FY2011-14E -20bp).
Scale benefits at Miu Miu (FY2009-11 +140bp, FY2011-14E +140bp).
Prada Group to see a 14% increase in EBITDA margins FY2009-14E
In the period FY2009-11, Prada’s group EBITDA margin improved to 26.2% from 17.2%.
We estimate the three drivers described above contributed a respective 360bp, 400bp and
140bp to this margin improvement, respectively.
We estimate the EBITDA margin for the business will increase further, to 31.3% in FY2014
from 26.2% in FY2011, with the three drivers accounting for a respective 380bp, -20bp and
140bp. We note that our forecasts contain an element of conservatism about the
additional operating leverage in the business given we forecast additional depreciation
and advertising spending.
Exhibit 98: Prada to improve gross margins Gross and EBITDA margin over time
Exhibit 99: EBITDA margins to continue progression Changes to EBITDA margin, %, FY2009-14E
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates
Source: Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
(1) Improving Mix: Retail, Asia and Leather Goods (FY2009-11 +360bp, FY2011-14E
+380bp)
We believe that Prada can benefit from a number of favourable mix elements on the gross
and operating margins. We believe 363bp of EBITDA margin improvement in the period
FY2009-11 was due to the positive impact of changing mix, particularly as retail sales
have outpaced wholesale revenues. We expect this to continue and forecast a further
380bp expansion in the period FY2011-14E. We believe there are three key drivers of mix
improvements:
Channel mix – the most significant element of improving mix as higher gross
margin retail business replaces and outpaces lower gross margin wholesale
business.
Geographical mix – we believe that operations in Asia command higher gross
and operating margins due to the higher level of mark up and lower rent and
10%
20%
30%
40%
50%
60%
70%
80%
2009 2010 2011 2012E 2013E 2014E
Industry gross margin Prada gross margin Prada EBITDA margin
17%
26%
31%
1%
1%
0%
0%
4%
4%
10%
15%
20%
25%
30%
35%
2009 Miu
Miu
Organic
and lev
Mix 2011 Miu
Miu
Organic
and lev
Mix 2014E
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 41
personnel costs, so as this geography outpaces the rest of the world in terms of
the benefits from top-line growth.
Product mix – we believe that the gross margin in leather goods is above that on
footwear and RTW, and again Prada benefits as this category grows faster than
the others.
(2) Organic initiatives (markdown policy and cost restructuring) and operating leverage (FY2009-11 400bp, FY2011-14E -20bp)
Organic initiatives. We believe Prada has delivered improvements in the gross margin
by making changes to its markdown policy in its directly operated stores. The company
has reduced the amount of product subject to markdown and the average level of
discount offered. We estimate that this has added up to 190bp to the group gross margin
in the FY2009-11 period. We expect a, more limited, 85bp improvement in the FY2011-14
forecast period. Initiatives on cost restructuring and sourcing efficiencies have also
contributed to the organic improvements in gross and operating profit margins.
Operating leverage. We expect the Prada Group to continue to show operating leverage
on its cost base. We believe c.200bp of Prada’s EBITDA margin improvement in the
FY2009-11 period was due to the positive impact of operating leverage. We are more
cautious going forward and forecast that management will add to this cost base, most
notably to advertising and promotion costs that we forecast to increase to 8% of sales,
from 4.2%, and that this will dampen the positive impact from operating leverage in the
FY2011-14 period.
(3) Scale benefits at Miu Miu (FY2009-11 +140bp, FY2011-14E +140bp)
We expect EBITDA margins at Miu Miu to continue to improve. Since FY2009, the EBITDA
margin has improved to 21.8% from 12.5%. We believe that this is part reflects the
reaching of a maturity level on its operating cost base. We expect the Miu Miu brand
EBITDA margins to rise to 29.8% by FY2014E, relative to the Prada brand EBITDA margin
of 32.3% we forecast in that year.
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 42
Financials: Sector-leading growth, sector-catching margins
Prada Group’s net revenues grew to €2,046.7 mn in FY2011 (end-January) from €1,643.6
mn in FY2009, representing a CAGR of 11.6%. EBITDA in the same period grew to €535.9
mn from €282.6 mn (a CAGR of 37.7%), resulting in an improvement in the EBITDA
margin to 26.2% from 17.2%. We expect Prada to deliver sector-leading revenue CAGR of
19% (FY2011-14E), aggregate EBITDA margin improvement of 508bp and for this to
deliver a net income CAGR of 32%. The key drivers of earnings growth are: (1) retail-led
growth, driven by accelerated store expansions of 80 pa (and like for like sales), (2) rapid
growth of the Miu Miu brand, (3) margin accretion at the gross and operating margin level,
and (4) financial deleverage. Prada, we expect, can deliver on management’s expectations
of a 30% EBITDA margin, 30% net income CAGR and 30% ROCE by FY2014E.
Prada to deliver sector leading top-line growth rates
We forecast sales to grow to €3.4 bn from €2.0 bn (FY2011-14E) at a CAGR of 19%. We
expect this growth to be driven by a 25% CAGR in sales from DOS (16% new space and
9% LFL), partly offset by a 6% CAGR decline in wholesales revenues.
Recent record shows acceleration in growth rates…
In FY2011, Prada delivered top-line growth of 32% following a 4% decline in revenues in
the prior year. This growth was driven by a 44% increase in sales from DOS (vs. +14% in
prior year), broken down 13% from new space, 22% LFL and 9% positive currency. Sales
from the wholesale channel grew 9% (7% comparable currency) following the prior year
decline of 26%.
The Miu Miu brand grew fastest, up 40% in FY2011, followed by the Prada brand +30%,
Church’s +21% and Car Shoe -3%. By geography, the fastest growth region was Asia
Pacific, up 63% (+49% comparable currency), following 40% growth in the prior year. Asia
Pacific was followed by North America +29% (+21% comparable FX), Europe +21% (+19%
comparable FX), Italy +19% and Japan +17% (+3% comparable FX). By category, Leather
Goods grew 42%, Footwear 23%, RTW 22% and other categories 39%.
… and material improvements in operating profit margins
The Prada Group delivered a 538bp expansion in the gross margin in FY2011, following a
444bp increase in the prior year, lifting the group gross margin to 67.8% in FY2011 from
58% in FY2009. This margin uplift was driven by: (1) channel mix, (2) sourcing efficiencies,
(3) changes to the markdown policy, and (4) other/ currency. This gross margin
improvement helped deliver an increase in EBITDA margins to 26.2% in FY2011 from
17.2% FY2009. By brand, EBITDA margins have improved at Prada to 28.1% from 19.2%
over the same period, at Miu Miu to 21.8% from 12.5% and at the other brands to 6.4%
from 2.0%.
We expect a moderation in sales growth in FY2012 and further margin progression
We forecast sales growth to be moderate in FY2012. We forecast top-line growth of 20%,
driven by 29% growth in sales from DOS, broken down 19% from new space, 10% LFL
and 2% currency. We forecast sales from the wholesale channel to decline 2%. We
continue to expect the Miu Miu brand to grow the fastest, up 30%, followed by Prada
+19%, Church’s +5% and Car Shoe +5%. By geography, we expect the fastest growing
region to be Asia Pacific, up 34% (32% comparable currency) followed by North America
+17% (10% comparable FX), Europe +15% (15% comparable FX), Italy +15% and Japan
+4% (3% comparable FX). By category, we forecast Leather Goods to grow 21%, Footwear
17%, Clothing 20% and other categories 20%.
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 43
We forecast an improvement in gross margin of 220bp to 70% in FY2012E driven by
continued beneficial channel mix changes and some lagged beneficial impact from the
changes to markdown policy.
Store growth to drive sales growth
Management expects to open 80 net new stores pa. We have assumed that this is split
38:38:2:2 between Prada, Miu Miu, Church’s and Car Shoe. We forecast this additional
space growth to contribute 16% CAGR sales growth from new space to DOS revenues
from FY2011-14. By brand, this equates to 15% CAGR growth from net new space for the
Prada brand and 25% for Miu Miu. We expect new space growth to be supplemented by
LFL sales growth of 9% at both brands.
Asia (ex Japan) to deliver the fastest geographical growth
By region, we forecast a 30% CAGR in revenues over FY2011-14 in Asia (ex Japan), 13% in
Europe, Italy and North America, 8% in Other countries and 4% in Japan. We forecast that
these sales will be driven by the weightings of store openings where we estimate an
additional 90 stores in Asia Pacific (32% CAGR), 60 in Europe (17% CAGR), 45 in North
America (32% CAGR), 30 in Other countries (152% CAGR), nine in Italy (7% CAGR) and six
in Japan (3% CAGR). We forecast Asia Pacific sales to represent 43% of group sales in
FY2014E (from 32% in FY2011), Europe 19% (from 22%), Italy 17% (from 19%), North
America 13% (from 15%), Japan 8% (from 11%) and Other countries 1% (from 1%).
Miu Miu to outpace group sales growth
We expect Miu Miu to be the fastest growing brand and to deliver a CAGR of 27% to
FY2014E (33% increase in DOS revenues, 1% wholesale revenue growth). We expect the
Prada Group to grow revenues 17% CAGR (24% growth in DOS revenues offset by a 5%
CAGR decline in wholesale revenues). We forecast Church’s and Car Shoe to grow
revenues 5% CAGR. By FY2014E, we expect the Prada brand to represent 76% of total
revenues (from 79% in FY2011), Miu Miu 21% (from 17%) and the other brands 3% (from
4%).
Exhibit 100: Prada and Miu Miu dominate growth
Sales by brand (€ mn)
Exhibit 101: Asia Pacific (ex Japan) to drive regional sales
Sales by geography (€ mn)
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
500
1000
1500
2000
2500
3000
3500
4000
2009 2010 2011 2012E 2013E 2014E
Prada Miu Miu Church's Car Shoe Others
0
500
1000
1500
2000
2500
3000
3500
4000
2009 2010 2011 2012E 2013E 2014E
Italy Europe North America Asia-Pacific Japan Others
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 44
Exhibit 102: Prada the largest contributor to sales growth
Sales by brand, FY2011-14E, € mn inc Royalties
Exhibit 103: Asia Pacific the largest contributor to sales
Sales by geography, FY2011-14E, € mn, ex- Royalties
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research.
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research.
Exhibit 104: New space and LFL sales more than offset reduced wholesale revenues
Sales contributions (ex-Royalties), 2009-14E, € mn
Source: Goldman Sachs Research based on company data.
3405
2047
979
3669 3 1
0
500
1000
1500
2000
2500
3000
3500
4000
2011
Pra
da
Miu
Miu
Ch
urc
h's
Car
Sh
oe
Oth
er
bra
nd
s
2014E
3363
2017
186210
145
771
31 3
0
500
1000
1500
2000
2500
3000
3500
4000
2011
Italy
Eu
rop
e
No
rth
Am
eri
ca
Asia
-Pacif
ic
Jap
an
Oth
ers
2014E
1604
2017
3443
235
585
321
892
-143
-51
0
500
1000
1500
2000
2500
3000
3500
4000
2009
LFL
New
DO
S
Wh
ole
sale
2011
LFL
New
DO
S
Wh
ole
sale
2014E
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 45
Leather goods to be the fastest growing category
We forecast Leather Goods to continue to outpace the growth of the other categories,
growing at a CAGR of 22% (FY2011-14E), followed by RTW 17%, Footwear 15% and Other
7%. We expect Leather Goods to increase its share of total net revenues from 50% to 53%,
offset by RTW (24% to 23%) and Footwear (25% to 23%).
Exhibit 105: DOS growth to offset declining wholesale
Sales growth by channel
Exhibit 106: Leather Goods to grow fastest
Sales growth by category
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Gross margins
We expect the group gross margin to expand to 72.5% from 67.8% (FY2011-14E) driven by
an improving mix of sales and organic initiatives, in particular due to markdown policy
changes. Retail gross margins are higher than wholesale margins and, as retail increases
its share of revenues (to 86% from 71%, on our FY2011-14 forecasts), we expect gross
margins to improve by up to 200bp. To a lesser extent, we believe that the higher gross
margin achieved on sales in Asia Pacific relative to the rest of the world could add 90bp
and finally Leather Goods, being of higher gross margin than other categories, will also
contribute 90bp to the gross margin.
Exhibit 107: Gross margin to break the 70% level
Gross margin, %
Exhibit 108: Mix the biggest driver of gross margin
Gross margin contributions
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Source: Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
-30%
-20%
-10%
0%
10%
20%
30%
40%
50%
2010 2011 2012E 2013E 2014E
DOS Wholesale
-20%
-10%
0%
10%
20%
30%
40%
50%
2010 2011 2012E 2013E 2014E
RTW Leather goods Footwear Other
50%
55%
60%
65%
70%
75%
2009 2010 2011 2012E 2013E 2014E
58.0%
72.5%
1.9%
0.9%
3.8%
0.0%
0.5%
0.0%3.6%
3.8%
45.0%
50.0%
55.0%
60.0%
65.0%
70.0%
75.0%
2009
Mark
do
wn
po
licy
So
urc
ing
eff
icie
ncie
s
Oth
er,
Fx
"Ch
an
nel"
mix
2011
Mark
do
wn
po
licy
So
urc
ing
eff
icie
ncie
s
Oth
er,
Fx
"Ch
an
nel"
mix
2014E
23%Retail 25% 27%
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 46
Exhibit 109: Changes to markdown policy Markdown, average discount and total gross margin, %
Source: Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
EBITDA margins
We expect EBITDA margins to improve to 31.3% from 26.2% (FY2011-14E), driven in the
most part by the gross margin initiatives. The four core areas of operating costs have a
degree of fixed cost element; hence, we expect the company to deliver some operating
leverage as the business grows:
product and development expenses;
advertising and promotion expenses;
selling expenses; and
general and administration expenses.
Exhibit 110: Sales and EBITDA to grow 19% and 26% pa
Revenue and EBITDA, € mn
Exhibit 111: Both brands to reach 30% EBITDA margin
EBITDA margin by brand, %
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
22% 16% 11%40% 35% 30%66.0%
66.5%
67.0%
67.5%
68.0%
68.5%
69.0%
69.5%
0%
5%
10%
15%
20%
25%
30%
35%
40%
45%
Winter 2009/10 Mid 2010 Winter 2010/11% of product s.t. markdown % markdown
Total gross margin, %
1644 1561
2047
2466
2912
3405
283 290536
707877
1065
0%
5%
10%
15%
20%
25%
30%
35%
0
500
1000
1500
2000
2500
3000
3500
4000
2009 2010 2011 2012E 2013E 2014E
Revenues EBITDA EBITDA margin
19% 20%
28%30% 31% 32%
12%
17%
22%
25%
28%30%
2%
-2%
6%8%
11%12%
-5%
0%
5%
10%
15%
20%
25%
30%
35%
2009 2010 2011 2012E 2013E 2014E
Prada Miu Miu Other brands
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 47
Exhibit 112: Prada Group cost structure
Costs and operating profit as % of sales, FY2011
Exhibit 113: We assume some operating leverage
Operating expenses, € mn
Source: Company data.
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Currency
The Prada Group is net exposed to the US dollar, with 40% of revenue exposed, but only
20% of cost. As a result, a stronger euro presents a risk to margins; however, given
Prada’s flexible supply chain and significant pricing power, we do not see currency as a
major medium-term threat to margins. In the near term, rapid movements in currencies
do present a risk to margins. We expect the impact from currency to contribute to 2% to
the top-line in FY2012 and have no material impact on gross margins.
Exhibit 114: Weaker euro benefits Prada for income… Revenue and costs (costs of goods sold and operating costs)
by currency, FY2011
Exhibit 115: … and financial debt
Cash and debt by currency FY2011
Source: Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Source: Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Interest
We expect the Prada Group to be highly cash generative, on average generating average
free cash flow pa of €285 mn over the FY2011-14 period. As a result, we expect Prada to
de-lever from 1.6x net debt: EBITDA to net cash by FY2014. We expect the financial
expense to turn to a small income in FY2014E.
Cost of goods
sold, 32.2%
Product and
development
expenses,
4.7%
Advertising
and
Promotion
expenses,
4.2%
Rent, 14.4%
Other selling
expenses,
17.0%
General and
administration
expenses,
7.1%
EBIT, 20.4%
44%
45%
46%
47%
48%
49%
50%
51%
0
200
400
600
800
1000
1200
1400
1600
1800
2009 2010 2011 2012E 2013E 2014E
Product and development Advertising and Promotion
Selling General and administration
SG&A as % of sales
35%
62%
40%
20%
10%9%
15%9%
0%
10%
20%
30%
40%
50%
60%
70%
80%
90%
100%
Revenue Costs
Euro US dollar Japanese Yen Other
13%
78%57%
6%13%
15%17%
1%
0%
10%
20%
30%
40%
50%
60%
70%
80%
90%
100%
Cash Debt
Euro US dollar Japanese Yen Other
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 48
Tax
We forecast the tax rate to fall to 31% in FY2014 from 35% in FY2011.
Dividends, capital expenditure and working capital
The company intends to pay a dividend, in line with industry practice: we assume a
payout ratio of 16% in FY2012E and 28% in FY2013E and in FY2014E.
Increasing inventories and payables, from managing an expanded store network, are
offset by decreasing receivables, from reduced sales to third-party wholesale accounts.
We expect working capital to remain below 15% of sales to FY2014E.
We forecast capital expenditure to increase 33% to €249 mn in FY2012 (from €188 mn in
FY2011) and to reach 10.1% of sales. In FY2013 and FY2014, we expect more modest
growth of 13% and 2%, respectively.
Exhibit 116: Capex to peak at 10.1% of sales in FY2012E
Capex progression, € mn
Exhibit 117: … and 75% to be focused on expanding retail
Capex progression, € mn
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Cash flow and balance sheet structure
We expect the company to generate €236 mn, €337 mn and €480 mn of free cash flow pa
to FY2014E. We expect the company to be net cash by FY2013E.
Exhibit 118: Lower receivables offset higher inventory
days Working capital progression, € mn
Exhibit 119: Prada to have net cash by FY2013E
Net debt: EBITDA and covenants, € mn
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
7.5%
8.0%
8.5%
9.0%
9.5%
10.0%
10.5%
0
50
100
150
200
250
300
350
2009 2010 2011 2012E 2013E 2014E
CAPEX CAPEX as % of sales
7.5%
8.0%
8.5%
9.0%
9.5%
10.0%
10.5%
0
50
100
150
200
250
300
350
2009 2010 2011 2012E 2013E 2014E
Corporate Industrial Retail CAPEX as % of sales
133 144 155 160 164 169
55 52 48 43 38 33
-120 -121 -128 -128 -128 -128
62
64
66
68
70
72
74
76
78
-150
-100
-50
0
50
100
150
200
250
2009 2010 2011 2012E 2013E 2014E
Inventory days Receivable days
Payable days Working capital days
544472
401
225
19
-304
3.9x
2.0x
0.9x0.4x
0.0x-0.4x
7.5x
1.7x2.3x 2.5x 2.6x 2.6x
-1.0x
0.0x
1.0x
2.0x
3.0x
4.0x
5.0x
6.0x
7.0x
8.0x
-400
-300
-200
-100
0
100
200
300
400
500
600
2009 2010 2011 2012E 2013E 2014E
Net Debt Net Debt/FFO Fixed charge cover
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 49
Returns
Prada generated a return on capital employed (ROCE) of 27.7% in FY2011 and cash return
on cash invested (CROCI) of 14.9%, up from 12.9% and 7.8%, respectively, in FY2009. We
forecast this progression to continue, with ROCE and CROCI forecast at 35.3% and 16.4%
in FY2014.
Intangibles. The Prada Group has €1.1 bn of gross value intangible assets on the balance
sheet (net carrying amount €0.9 bn). These intangibles have been generated through
three main transactions.
The acquisition of the Miu Miu brand from a related party in an arm’s length
transaction in 2003 with a cash outflow of €220 mn (current net book value of the
Miu Miu trademark €182 mn).
The acquisition of the Church’s brand for an initial consideration of €150 mn in
1999 (current book value of the Church’s trademark €111 mn).
The acquisition of the retail and wholesale businesses from the Prada Holding
company in an arm’s length transaction in 2002/03 with a cash outflow of
€500 mn (current net book value of goodwill related to this transaction €492 mn).
The implications for the calculation of cash returns (CROCI) is that Prada has lower cash
returns, 14.9%, than some of it global peers (the current sector average is 18%). However,
if this intangible were adjusted to reflect only transactions related to non-Prada and Miu
Miu brands, then returns (CROCI) would be 180bp higher at 16.7%, approaching the
average for the sector.
Exhibit 120: Prada to see returns improve…
CROCI, %, GCI and DACF, € mn
Exhibit 121: … to industry average
ROCE, %, EBIT and CE, € mn
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
288 397 656 785 965 1,163
3,096
3,545
4,391
5,228
6,136
7,085
9%
11%
15% 15%16%
16%
0%
2%
4%
6%
8%
10%
12%
14%
16%
18%
-
1,000
2,000
3,000
4,000
5,000
6,000
7,000
8,000
2009 2010 2011 2012E 2013E 2014E
Debt adj cash flow Avg Gross cash invested CROCI
191 187 418 571
711 860
1,485 1,520 1,512
1,832
2,132
2,441
13% 12%
28%
31%33%
35%
0%
5%
10%
15%
20%
25%
30%
35%
40%
-
500
1,000
1,500
2,000
2,500
3,000
2009 2010 2011 2012E 2013E 2014E
EBIT Average CE ROCE
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 50
Risks: Slower growth, rising costs, execution of growth strategy
Key risks to Prada’s strategy and growth potential include slowing global GDP,
availability of suitable real estate for store openings, fashion risk and margin
compression as fixed costs are added.
Expansion comes with risks in execution
An accelerated expansion plan comes with risk in execution. The ability to maintain a
pipeline of new real estate of appropriate sites will be critical to Prada’s ability to execute
its growth strategy.
Fashion risk and brand dilution
Fashion risk and brand dilution present risks, both in the near term in terms of the risk of
higher markdowns and in the medium term in terms of the sustainability of the growth of
the brands.
Problems with production or quality
Production is outsourced to third-party suppliers. Problems with production and quality of
the finished goods present a risk to sales and brand perception.
Costs: Negative operational leverage; adverse FX moves
As Prada increases the number of stores in its network, fixed costs will be added to the
operating cost base. This presents a risk to profit margins, especially if demand were to
fall dramatically. The management of currency moves also presents a risk, particularly
when the euro strengthens against the dollar.
The business relies on key personnel
The Prada business is critically dependent on Ms Miuccia Prada, who leads the design
function and is President and founder of the company. Mr Patrizio Bertelli, the Chief
Executive, is also critically important to the operations. The loss of either or both of these
personnel presents a significant risk to the business.
Tax disputes ongoing
Prada is subject to tax risks. A number of disputes, including two each in France and
Korea and one each in Japan and Germany in the last financial year and 18 in total in the
last three years, present a risk to earnings.
A downturn in the economy or consumer confidence
Global GDP, tourist, wealth, incomes and consumer confidence are all potential drivers of
luxury goods demand. A macroeconomic slowdown presents a risk to sales progression
for Prada.
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 51
Appendix 1: Company profile
Prada: A leading fashion and luxury goods group
Prada is one of the world’s leading fashion and luxury goods groups. It designs,
manufactures, promotes and sells high-end leather goods, ready-to-wear and footwear
through the Prada, Miu Miu, Church’s and Car Shoe brands.
Timeline and history
Prada SpA was established as a limited liability company (società a responsabilità
limitata) in Italy on July 11, 1990. On November 25, 2003, following a merger by
incorporation with other companies within the group, the company was transformed into
a joint-stock company (società per azioni) and took the current name of PRADA S.p.A.
The origins of the company date back to 1913 when Mr Mario Prada, the grandfather of
Ms Miuccia Prada, President, opened a store in Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II in the centre
of Milan that sold leather bags, trunks, beauty cases, luxury accessories and precious
objects such as silverware and Bohemian crystal.
The expansion of the group’s business began in the late 1970s when Ms Miuccia Prada,
who had just started to manage the group, and Mr Patrizio Bertelli, who at that time had a
business that operated in the high-end leather goods industry, started their collaboration.
Mr Patrizio Bertelli’s company, I Pellettieri d’Italia S.p.A. (later called Prada Industrial
S.p.A., which merged into the company in 2003), obtained a licence from Ms Miuccia
Prada for the production and distribution of a leather goods collection under the Prada
brand. The first Prada womenswear fashion show was held in Milan in 1988. In 1993, a
new brand – Miu Miu – was established. It was first licensed to the Prada Group by Ms
Prada but was acquired by the group in 2003. Miu Miu now offers women’s ready-to-wear,
leather goods and shoes, and is an increasingly important component of the group’s sales.
In the past seven years, the strategy has been to focus on the brands that management
believes have the greatest potential for growth, namely Prada and Miu Miu, and to
consolidate the distribution network. More recently, this strategy has included a corporate
reorganization programme designed to concentrate all of the operations in the company
and in subsidiaries that it controls directly. Accordingly, between 2006 and 2007, all of the
Italian industrial activities were merged into the company, with the exception of Artisans
Shoes srl in which the operating partners have kept a minority stake.
The acquisition and subsequent disposal between 1999 and 2006 of the Fendi, Jil Sander
and Helmut Lang brands (and their respective businesses) did not involve the group.
These transactions directly or indirectly involved the controlling entities at the time.
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 52
Exhibit 122: Prada history: Key timeline in development of the Prada Group
Source: Company data.
1913Mario Prada opens a luxury store in the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II in Milan, selling leather handbags, travelling trunks, leather accessories and beauty cases, luxury accessories and articles of value.
1919 Prada became an official supplier to the Italian Royal Family.
1970s
The Group saw a turning point in the development of its activities when Miuccia Prada, Mario’s grand-daughter, launched a partnership with Patrizio Bertelli, a Tuscan businessman already involved in the leather goods sector under the brand names Granello and Sir Robert. This partnership combined creativity and business ideas to commence a new era.
1977
Patrizio Bertelli set up I.P.I. spa to consolidate the production resources that he had built up over the previous ten years, including those of Sir Robert and Granello. In the same year, I.P.I. spa obtained an exclusive license from Miuccia Prada to produce and distribute leather goods bearing the Prada brand name.
1979 Launch of Prada women’s footwear collection 1980 Design and launch of the first triangle1982 Launch of the first Prada women’s shoes collection1983 Opening of a second store in Via della Spiga, Milan 1984 Launch of the Prada black nylon backpack1986 First Prada stores opened abroad in Europe (Madrid) and the US (New York)
1988 Launch of the first Prada women’s ready-to-wear collection and first women’s fashion show in Milan
1993 A new brand, Miu Miu, was launched in 1993. 1993 Launch of Miu Miu women’s collections (ready-to-wear apparel, handbags and footwear)1993 Launch of the first Prada men’s collection (ready-to-wear and shoes)1997 Launch of the Prada leisure-time line, identifiable by its red stripe
1999 Prada acquired full control of Church’s Group, a prestigious brand of English shoes ($170mn)
2000 Launch of Prada eyewear collection (JV with De Rigo)2000 First Sponsorship of the Luna Rossa Challenge
2001 Prada, acquired control of Car Shoe, an Italian brand famous for exclusive driving shoes.
2001 Opening of the first “Epicenter” store in SoHo, New York
2003Prada entered into a ten-year licensing agreement with Italian eyewear manufacturer Luxottica, one of the world leaders in the eyewear industry. The Luxottica Group currently produces eyewear for the Prada and Miu Miu brands.
2003 Opening of the second “Epicenter” store in Aoyama,Tokyo 2003 JV with Puig Beauty for the fragrance lines 2003 IPI spa was merged into Prada spa.
2003 to 2006 Incorporation of companies belonging to the former Genny Group. The purpose of this step was to enhance Prada’s know-how and manufacturing capabilities in the women’s ready-to-wear sector.
2004 Opening of the third “Epicenter” store in Beverly Hills, Los Angeles 2004 Launch of the first Prada fragrance
July 2004 to June 2010 Acquisition of Car Shoe S.A. from the Moretti family2006 Miu Miu fashion show in Paris 2006 Prada launches its first men’s fragrance 2006 First Miu Miu fashion show in Paris
2006 to 2007
Incorporation of all the Italian industrial activities held by the company, with the exception of those where the operating partners held a minority stake. This process involved the merger into the company of 11 companies, which manufactured leather goods, ready-to-wear and footwear, for better organizational efficiency.
2007 Launch of first Prada phone by LG 2007 Launch of new Prada women’s fragrance, Infusion d’Iris 2007 Acquisition of 100% of Church’s from Prada Holding B.V.2008 Launch of Infusion d’Homme, the new Prada men’s fragrance 2008 Launch of the new Prada phone by LG.
2009Launch of exclusive new “Made to measure” (customized and made to measure men’s shirts) and “Made to order” (possibility to customize clothes, accessories and shoes) services available as part of a new concept at the store in Corso Venezia, Milan
2009 Launch of new Prada women’s fragrances Eau Ambrée and Infusion de Fleur d’Oranger 2010 Prada is an official partner of the Italian Pavilion at the Shanghai World Expo Jul-05 Launch of the “Prada Made in...” collection Jul-05 Launch of “Postcard” eyewear
2010 Prada dressed hostesses and stewards in the Italian pavillion at the Shanghai World Expo. Launch of the “Prada Made in ...” Project
2011 First Prada fashion show in BeijingJul-07 Disposal of Azzedine Alaïa S.a.S.
Dec-08 Acquisition of Post Development Corp (real estate company that owns the New York Headquarters of Prada) from the controlling company
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 53
Competitive strengths
A leading luxury group, underpinned by a long heritage. The company was
established in 1913 and is one of the most successful players in the luxury goods
industry with more than €2 bn of net sales.
A focus on innovation and quality. Examples of innovation with materials, design
and functionality include Prada nylon bags and backpacks and “Saffiano” leather
bags and accessories.
Strong brand portfolio. Prada, Miu Miu, Church’s and Car Shoe allow the company
to reach targeted complementary luxury audiences.
Stable and experienced management team. Experienced management and stable
teams headed by Ms Miuccia Prada and Mr Patrizio Bertelli, the controlling
shareholders with over 30 years of company leadership. Ms Prada has been widely
recognized as an influential figure in the fashion industry worldwide. Mr Patrizio
Bertelli has been leading the industrial and commercial infrastructure from the
perspectives of growth, expansion and financial performance.
Well-balanced and focused product portfolio. Leather goods, footwear and ready-
to-wear accounted for approximately 51%, 25% and 24% of total net sales (excluding
royalties), respectively, in FY2011. The wider range of products at the group’s DOS
increases cross-selling opportunities.
Direct control over the entire value chain. Prada has control over the technical
expertise, quality standards and production cost as well as maintaining a flexible
capacity. As of January 31, 2011, the group had approximately 1,800 employees in its
in-house production divisions and approximately 750 people in the product
development department.
Well diversified global presence with strong focus on Asian markets, particularly
Greater China. 42% of net revenues in Europe, 32% in Asia Pacific, 15% in North
America and 11% in Japan.
Strong network of DOS in prime locations. The company has expanded its network
of DOS from 211 at February 1, 2008 to 319 as at January 31, 2011. Sales from DOS
now represent 71% of total net sales, up from 54% for the year ended January 31,
2009. The extensive network allows greater control over interaction with customers
and allows the company to respond to customers in a more effective and timely
manner. Prada has been able to secure prime locations in prominent shopping malls
and streets globally. Management views increased sales from DOS as a key driver of
increased profitability. The Prada Group currently operates 18 outlet stores (12 in
Europe, three in the US and remainder in Asia). This represents under 6% of the total
store network and we expect this level to stay constant, relative to sales, as the
overall store network grows.
Recent track record of delivering growth and profitability, even in difficult
market conditions. Net revenues have grown to €2.0 bn in FY2011 from €1.6 bn in
FY2009, a CAGR of 11.6%. In the same period, EBITDA has grown to €536 mn from
€283 mn, a CAGR of 37.7%, and EBITDA margins have increased to 26.2% from 17.2%.
The key drivers of this profitability growth have been: (1) the increased contribution
from retail, (2) presence in high-growth markets, (3) production efficiency and (4) cost
management.
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 54
The Prada business model
Exhibit 123: Prada value chain
Source: Company data.
Design. The design process is intended to allow control over the technical expertise,
quality standards and production cost, while maintaining flexibility.
Design and creation. Prototypes and samples are produced at the in-house facility.
Detailed specification allows for control of design and cost. Design teams are headed by
Ms Miuccia Prada and Mr Fabio Zambernardi, the design director for both Prada and Miu
Miu. Design teams of 60 people are supported by the product development department of
750 people (responsible for transforming designs into prototypes). Prices are set post the
approval of the samples. Prada is opening two new design offices, in Paris and Hong
Kong, both under the supervision of the Milan headquarters.
For each of the three financial years ended January 31, 2009, 2010 and 2011, the
design and product and development expenses were c.€88.2 mn, €96.8 mn and
€97.2 mn, respectively, representing c.5.5%, 6.3% and 4.8% of net sales, respectively.
Sourcing and production. 11 in-house production facilities produce 20% finished product.
External manufacturers produce the remaining 80%. Prada works with 450 raw material
suppliers. Purchases are not concentrated: the top five account for 15% of the total. Prada
buys directly from the majority of its suppliers. The group works with 480 manufacturing
partners and maintains 170 staff in quality control. This method of production allows for
control of the value-added areas of the process while maintaining the flexibility to prevent
capacity shortages or constraints.
Communications and public relations. Fashion shows, advertising campaigns, events
and sponsorships. Fashion shows are a key communication - six pa, four Prada in Milan
and two Miu Miu in Paris. Prada has 11 main advertising campaigns pa (five for the Prada
brand, two for each of the other brands).
Advertising and promotion expenses were €99.5 mn in FY2009, €75.8 mn in FY2010
and €85.1 mn in FY2011, representing a respective 6.1%, 4.9% and 4.2% of net
revenues.
Sales and distribution. Directly operated stores, multi-brand department stores,
franchise stores and e-commerce.
Distribution. Retail. 71% of sales are through 319 directly operated stores.
Wholesale. The remaining 29% of sales are from wholesale operations through 1,400
clients (and approximately 1,800 doors). The top five clients represent 7.6% of net sales.
Prada also distributes through 33 mono-brand franchise stores.
E-commerce. In the financial year ended January 31, 2011, the e-commerce retail
channel generated approximately €1.9 mn.
Style & Desgin
Product develop
DistributionSourcing
and Production
Fashion Shows
Showroom Presentation
Quality Control
Logistics
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 55
Exhibit 124: Prada manufacturing network
Production facilities
Exhibit 125: Prada store network
Geographical distribution of DOS
Source: Company data.
Source: Company data.
Management
Prada has an experienced senior management team. As well as a number of experienced
executives in each of the regions and at each of the brands, the main executives are:
President: Miuccia Prada. Ms Prada is a co-founder of the group along with Mr
Bertelli, Chief Executive Officer. Ms Prada leads the design process and is also
married to Mr Bertelli.
Chief Executive Officer: Patrizio Bertelli. Mr Bertelli is a co-founder of the group along
with Ms Prada, President.
Deputy Chairman: Carlo Mazzi. Mr Mazzi was appointed Executive Deputy Chairman
on November 9, 2004.
Group CFO: Donatello Galli. Mr Galli was appointed to the board in 2005.
Group COO – Commercial Director: Sebastian Suhl. Appointed to Group COO in 2009.
Head of Business Control: Armando Tolomelli. Joined the Group in 2005.
Head of Investor Relations: Alessandra Cozzani. Joined the Group in 2000.
The non-executives include Marco Salomoni, Gian Franco Oliviero Mattei and Giancarlo
Forestieri.
Location
Arezzo, Italy
Civitanova Marche, Italy
Dolo, Venice, Italy
Fuececchio, Florence, Italy
Levane, Arezzo, Italy
Montegranaro, Fermo, Italy
Montone, Perugia, Italy
Northampton, United Kingdom
Piancastagnaio, Siena, Italy
Scandicci, Florence, Italy
Torgiano, Perugia, Italy Knitwear Prada 47
Leather goods - bags Prada, Miu Miu 35
Leather goods - bags Prada, Miu Miu 47
Men's shoes Church's 330
RTW (Shirts, Trousers) Prada 87
Men's shoes Prada 106
Women's shoes Prada 309
Leather RTW Prada 21
Women's shoes Miu Miu 54
Men's shoes Prada 40
Products Brands Headcount
Leather goods - belts Prada, Miu Miu 34
Prada Miu Miu Church's Car Shoe TotalTotal Italy 19 8 7 3 37Spain 3 1 1 5France + Monaco 17 8 5 30Belgium 1 1Germany + Austria 7 3 10UK + Ireland 12 5 14 31Greece 1 1Czech Republic 1 1Netherlands 1 1Turkey 2 1 3Portugal 1 1Switzerland 1 3 4Total Europe 46 18 24 0 88Total USA + Canada 26 7 1 34Total Japan (inc. Guam and Saipan) 43 13 56Korea 20 4 3 1 28HK + Macau 11 7 1 1 20Singapore 5 4 9Taiwan 7 2 9Malayasia + Thailand 4 1 5China 14 4 18Hawaii 4 1 5Austalia + NZ 8 2 10Total Asia - Pacific 73 25 4 2 104Total Direct Stores 207 71 36 5 319
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 56
Appendix 2: Detailed financials
Exhibit 126: Prada – Profit & Loss Account Year-end January, € mn
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Profit and Loss Statement (EUR million) 2009 2010 2011 2012E 2013E 2014E 2015E 2016ETotal revenue 1643.6 1561.2 2046.7 2489.9 2963.2 3484.4 4033.3 4580.1
growth -5.0% 31.1% 21.7% 19.0% 17.6% 15.8% 13.6%Cost of goods sold -690.5 -586.6 -658.8 -746.7 -848.6 -959.5 -1090.5 -1215.4growth -15.1% 12.3% 13.3% 13.6% 13.1% 13.6% 11.5%% of sales 42.0% 37.6% 32.2% 30.0% 28.6% 27.5% 27.0% 26.5%Gross Profit 953.1 974.7 1387.9 1743.2 2114.6 2524.9 2942.8 3364.7growth 2.3% 42.4% 25.6% 21.3% 19.4% 16.5% 14.3%% of sales 58.0% 62.4% 67.8% 70.0% 71.4% 72.5% 73.0% 73.5%Product and development expenses -88.2 -96.8 -97.2 -118.2 -124.4 -127.1 -137.0 -144.2growth 9.7% 0.4% 21.7% 5.2% 2.2% 7.8% 5.2%% of sales 5.4% 6.2% 4.7% 4.7% 4.2% 3.6% 3.4% 3.1%Advertising and Promotion expenses -99.5 -75.8 -85.1 -124.5 -140.7 -156.8 -181.5 -206.1growth -23.8% 12.3% 46.3% 13.1% 11.4% 15.8% 13.6%% of sales 6.1% 4.9% 4.2% 5.0% 4.8% 4.5% 4.5% 4.5%Selling expenses -428.1 -484.6 -642.5 -760.5 -955.5 -1187.4 -1448.3 -1728.6growth 13.2% 32.6% 18.4% 25.6% 24.3% 22.0% 19.4%% of sales 26.0% 31.0% 31.4% 30.5% 32.2% 34.1% 35.9% 37.7%
of which rent -189 -219 -295 -369 -447 -528 -613 -701growth 16.0% 34.7% 25.2% 21.0% 18.1% 16.0% 14.4%% of sales 11.5% 14.0% 14.4% 14.8% 15.1% 15.2% 15.2% 15.3%of which other selling expenses -239 -266 -347 -391 -508 -659 -836 -1028growth 11.0% 30.8% 12.5% 30.0% 29.7% 26.8% 23.0%% of sales 14.6% 17.0% 17.0% 15.7% 17.2% 18.9% 20.7% 22.4%
General and administration expenses -146.3 -130.4 -144.7 -163.6 -170.7 -173.7 -201.1 -228.3growth -10.9% 11.0% 13.1% 4.3% 1.8% 15.8% 13.6%% of sales 8.9% 8.4% 7.1% 6.6% 5.8% 5.0% 5.0% 5.0%SG&A -762.1 -787.6 -969.5 -1166.8 -1391.3 -1645.0 -1967.9 -2307.2growth 3.3% 23.1% 20.4% 19.2% 18.2% 19.6% 17.2%% of sales 46.4% 50.4% 47.4% 46.9% 47.0% 47.2% 48.8% 50.4%EBIT 191.0 187.0 418.4 576.4 723.3 879.9 974.9 1057.5growth -2.1% 123.7% 37.8% 25.5% 21.7% 10.8% 8.5%margin 11.6% 12.0% 20.4% 23.1% 24.4% 25.3% 24.2% 23.1%EBITDA 282.6 290.2 535.9 714.6 893.3 1090.8 1284.2 1482.7growth -11.4% 2.7% 84.7% 33.3% 25.0% 22.1% 17.7% 15.5%margin 17.2% 18.6% 26.2% 28.7% 30.1% 31.3% 31.8% 32.4%EBITDA Margin YoY (BP) 139 760 251 145 116 54 53 Depreciation and Amortisation -91.7 -103.2 -117.5 -138.2 -170.0 -210.9 -309.4 -425.2growth 12.5% 13.9% 17.6% 23.0% 24.1% 46.7% 37.5%As % of sales 5.6% 6.6% 5.7% 5.6% 5.7% 6.1% 7.7% 9.3%CAPEX / D&A 1.6x 1.3x 1.6x 1.8x 1.7x 1.4x 0.9x 0.6xNet interest income, with related parties 1.7 0.3 0.5 0.8 4.1 10.9 17.7 31.3Net interest expenses, with third parties -27.2 -17.0 -17.8 -13.0 -10.8 -7.7 -3.5 -2.1Realized exchange gains -0.2 -3.3 -5.4Unrealized exchange gains -1.9 -4.7 0.7Other financial income/(expenses) -9.6 -7.3 -8.2Net financial income / (expense) -37.1 -31.9 -30.2 -12.2 -6.7 3.3 14.2 29.2Dividend recdProfit from ordinary operations 153.8 155.2 388.2 564.2 716.6 883.2 989.1 1086.7growth 0.9% 150.2% 45.3% 27.0% 23.2% 12.0% 9.9%Net extraord income/(charges)Pre tax profit 153.8 155.2 388.2 564.2 716.6 883.2 989.1 1086.7growth 0.9% 150.2% 45.3% 27.0% 23.2% 12.0% 9.9%Income taxes -52.6 -52.5 -134.7 -174.9 -222.1 -273.8 -306.6 -336.9growth -0.2% 156.5% 29.9% 27.0% 23.2% 12.0% 9.9%Tax rate 34.2% 33.8% 34.7% 31.0% 31.0% 31.0% 31.0% 31.0%Net income pre MI 101.2 102.6 253.6 389.3 494.4 609.4 682.5 749.8growth 1.4% 147.0% 53.5% 27.0% 23.2% 12.0% 9.9%Minority Interests -1.8 -0.2 -2.7 -2.7 -2.7 -2.7 -2.7 -2.7Discontinued operations -0.6 -2.3 0.0Net income 98.8 100.2 250.8 386.5 491.7 606.6 679.7 747.1growth 1.4% 150% 54% 27% 23% 12% 10%margin 6.0% 6.4% 12.3% 15.5% 16.6% 17.4% 16.9% 16.3%
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 57
Exhibit 127: Prada – Cash flow statement Year-end January, € mn
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Cashflow Statement 2009 2010 2011 2012E 2013E 2014E 2015E 2016E
Profit/(loss) for the period - continued ops 100.6 100.3 253.6 389.3 494.4 609.4 682.5 749.8Non cash adjustments:Tax charge 52.6 52.5 134.7 174.9 222.1 273.8 306.6 336.9Net financials 27.8 30.0 23.5 12.2 6.7 -3.3 -14.2 -29.2Amortisation, depreciation, revaluations 80.1 94.3 111.5 138.2 170.0 210.9 309.4 425.2Impairments 11.8 9.4 6.1Other non-monetary changes -0.5 4.8 26.8 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0Cash flow 272.4 291.3 556.1 714.6 893.3 1090.8 1284.2 1482.7GrowthChange in current assets/liabilities:Trade account receivables 8.6 24.4 -46.1 -24.8 -15.7 -7.0 5.4 20.7Inventories 41.8 15.0 -46.4 -46.6 -55.1 -61.8 -74.0 -74.3Trade account payables -8.9 -33.5 36.9 31.2 36.2 39.4 46.5 44.4Others -14.5 43.3 -19.9Change in operating working capital 26.9 49.2 -75.4 -40.2 -34.6 -29.4 -22.2 -9.2
Adjustments, exchange rates, etcInterest recd -35.4 -21.2 -22.8 -12.2 -6.7 3.3 14.2 29.2Income taxes paid -98.1 -39.4 -90.2 -174.9 -222.1 -273.8 -306.6 -336.9Cash flow from operations 165.9 279.9 367.7 487.2 629.8 790.9 969.7 1165.8
Net investments in fixed assets -144.3 -132.8 -187.6 -251.5 -287.4 -294.4 -290.4 -272.5Growth -8% 41% 34% 14% 2% -1% -6%As % of sales 8.8% 8.5% 9.2% 10.1% 9.7% 8.5% 7.2% 6.0%As % of Net Assets 11.3% 10.1% 13.3% 16.6% 17.6% 17.1% 17.1% 17.6%Purchase of intangiblesAcquisitions of subsidiaries, net of cash acquired -7.8 -9.3 -4.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0Change in other non current assetsCashflow from investing activities -152.1 -142.1 -191.6 -251.5 -287.4 -294.4 -290.4 -272.5
-10.1% -9.7% -8.5% -7.2% -6.0%Dividends paid -1.3 -48.1 -59.4 -60.0 -135.2 -166.8 -186.9 -205.4Change in shareholders equityChange in debt -15.2 -77.0 -109.9 -127.2 -19.1 -190.5 -90.0 0.0Exchange differences 7.3 -3.3 3.5Cashflow from financing activities -9.1 -128.5 -165.8 -187.2 -154.3 -357.4 -276.9 -205.4
Net cashflow 4.7 9.3 10.3 48.6 188.1 139.1 402.3 687.8
9.3 10.3 48.6 188.1 139.1 402.3 687.8Free Cash Flow 21.6 147.1 180.1 235.8 342.4 496.5 679.3 893.3
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 58
Exhibit 128: Prada – Balance sheet Year-end January, € mn
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Balance Sheet 2009 2010 2011 2012E 2013E 2014E 2015E 2016EInventories 251.2 231.5 280.4 327.0 382.1 443.9 518.0 592.3 Days 133 144 155 160 164 169 173 178 Trade account receivables 250.5 224.2 274.2 299.0 314.6 321.6 316.2 295.5 Days 55 52 48 43 38 33 28 23 Receivables from parent company 22.3 56.4 36.3 36.3 36.3 36.3 36.3 36.3Other current assets 133.9 74.9 77.6 77.6 77.6 77.6 77.6 77.6Assets held for sales 1.4 1.4 4.9 4.9 4.9 4.9 4.9 4.9Total Current Assets 659.3 588.4 673.5 744.9 815.6 884.4 953.1 1006.7
Gross Intangible assets (est) 1109.5 1135.5 1139.6 1139.6 1139.6 1139.6 1139.6 1139.6Accumulated Amortisation (est) -208.4 -242.2 -270.5 -270.5 -270.5 -270.5 -270.5 -270.5Net Intangible assets 901.1 893.3 869.1 869.1 869.1 869.1 869.1 869.1
Gross Tangible assets (est) 803.4 880.0 1076.9 1328.4 1615.8 1910.3 2200.7 2473.2Accumulated Depreciation (est) -424.2 -462.0 -540.2 -678.4 -848.4 -1059.3 -1368.7 -1793.9Net Tangible assets 379.2 418.0 536.7 650.0 767.4 850.9 832.0 679.3
Deferred tax asset 106.2 111.4 141.4 141.4 141.4 141.4 141.4 141.4Other non-current assets 33.4 28.4 47.0 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8Equity investments 9.9 9.5 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8Total Fixed Assets 1429.8 1460.5 1596.0 1664.0 1781.4 1865.0 1846.0 1693.3
Cash 86.9 98.6 96.6 145.2 333.3 472.4 874.8 1562.6Bank OD -27.0 -29.4 -17.1 -17.1 -17.1 -17.1 -17.1 -17.1ST Debt -339.6 -429.9 -177.2 -50.0 -50.0 -50.0 -50.0 -50.0LT Debt -264.0 -111.4 -303.4 -303.4 -284.3 -93.8 -3.8 -3.8Net Cash/(Debt) -543.7 -472.2 -401.1 -225.3 -18.1 311.6 803.9 1491.7Net Cash/(Debt) : EBITDA -1.9x -1.6x -0.7x -0.3x 0.0x 0.3x 0.6x 1.0x
Total Assets 1545.5 1576.8 1868.4 2183.6 2579.0 3060.9 3602.9 4191.7
Trade account payables 230.5 196.4 233.9 265.1 301.2 340.6 387.1 431.5 Days 120 121 128 128 128 128 128 128 Payables to parent company and related parties 3.2 5.6 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1Other shareholders' loans 0.5 0.5 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6Taxes payables 33.9 62.2 107.6 107.6 107.6 107.6 107.6 107.6Derivative financial liablities 21.3 9.3 5.3 5.3 5.3 5.3 5.3 5.3Obligation under financial leases 3.4 5.5 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0Other current liabilities 93.4 90.7 111.5 111.5 111.5 111.5 111.5 111.5Current Liabilities 386.2 370.3 464.9 496.1 532.3 571.7 618.2 662.5
Obligation under financial leases 7.7 7.7 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5Post employment benefits 36.1 36.8 34.9 34.9 34.9 34.9 34.9 34.9Provisions 14.1 13.1 52.7 52.7 52.7 52.7 52.7 52.7Deferred tax liabilities 64.5 59.4 52.7 52.7 52.7 52.7 52.7 52.7Other long term liability 22.4 32.6 50.2 50.2 50.2 50.2 50.2 50.2Derivative financial instruments 2.1 0.2 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3Total Long Term Liabilities 147.0 149.8 193.4 193.4 193.4 193.4 193.4 193.4
Share capital 250.0 250.0 250.0 250.0 250.0 250.0 250.0 250.0Reserves 654.3 598.9 504.6 459.2 459.2 459.2 459.2 459.2Retained earnings 98.8 199.0 449.8 776.3 1132.8 1572.6 2065.4 2607.1Minority Interests 9.2 8.8 5.8 8.5 11.3 14.0 16.7 19.4Total shareholders equity 1012.3 1056.7 1210.1 1494.1 1853.3 2295.9 2791.4 3335.8
Total Liabilities and Equity 1545.5 1576.8 1868.4 2183.6 2579.0 3060.9 3602.9 4191.7
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 59
Exhibit 129: Prada in FY2009…
% of revenues
Exhibit 130: … Prada by FY2014E
% of revenues
Note clothing refers to ready-to-wear
Source: Company data.
Note clothing refers to ready-to-wear
Source: Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Prada, 79%
Miu Miu, 15%
Church's, 3% Car Shoe, 2% Others, 1%
Italy, 24%
Europe, 27%North
America, 18%
Asia-Pacific,
18%
Japan, 12%
Others, 1%
Clothing, 29%
Leather
goods, 40%
Footwear, 30%
Others, 1%
DOS, 54%
Wholesale,
46%
Prada, 77%
Miu Miu, 21%
Church's, 2% Car Shoe, 1% Others, 0%
Italy, 17%
Europe, 19%
North
America,
13%
Asia-Pacific,
44%
Japan,
8%
Others, 1%
RTW, 23%
Leather
goods, 55%
Footwear, 22%
Others, 1%
DOS, 84%
Wholesale,
16%
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 60
Exhibit 131: Prada Brand Year-end January, € mn
Note clothing refers to ready-to-wear.
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Prada Brand 2009 2010 2011 2012E 2013E 2014ENet sales by geographic area
Italy 286.8 249.0 302.0 351.9 392.3 433.5growth -13% 21% 17% 12% 11%% of total 23% 21% 19% 18% 17% 16%
Europe 331.2 284.3 341.5 397.9 443.7 490.2growth -14% 20% 17% 12% 11%% of total 26% 24% 22% 21% 20% 19%
North America 254.5 203.3 260.3 303.3 338.1 370.3growth -20% 28% 17% 12% 10%% of total 20% 17% 16% 16% 15% 14%
Asia-pacific 234.2 326.9 517.0 692.8 907.6 1157.2growth 40% 58% 34% 31% 28%% of total 19% 27% 33% 36% 40% 44%
Japan 140.6 135.2 157.1 163.3 169.9 176.7growth -4% 16% 4% 4% 4%% of total 11% 11% 10% 9% 8% 7%
Other countries 18.3 10.8 8.9 9.3 11.2 13.4growth -41% -18% 5% 20% 20%% of total 1% 1% 1% 0% 0% 1%
Total 1265.6 1209.5 1586.8 1918.5 2262.8 2641.3growth -4% 31.2% 20.9% 17.9% 16.7%
Net sales by product lineClothing 410.0 347.7 419.5 486.2 567.3 655.1
growth -15% 21% 16% 17% 15%% of total 32% 29% 26% 25% 25% 25%
Leather goods 498.6 553.7 786.0 989.6 1182.0 1397.4growth 11% 42% 26% 19% 18%% of total 39% 46% 50% 52% 52% 53%
Footwear 346.8 297.1 366.4 424.6 493.4 567.3growth -14% 23% 16% 16% 15%% of total 27% 25% 23% 22% 22% 21%
Other 10.2 11.0 15.0 18.1 20.0 21.4growth 8% 36.2% 21% 10.6% 6.7%% of total 1% 1% 1% 1% 1% 1%
Total 1265.6 1209.5 1586.8 1918.5 2262.8 2641.3growth -4% 31.2% 20.9% 17.9% 16.7%
Net sales by distribution networkDOS - outlets included 698.8 779.2 1120.0 1444.8 1805.9 2221.3
growth 12% 44% 29% 25% 23%Store, Fx, % 10% 19% 17% 14% 12%LFL % 2% 25% 12% 11% 11%
Net sales 1265.6 1209.5 1586.8 1918.5 2262.8 2641.3growth -4% 31.2% 20.9% 17.9% 16.7%% of total 97% 98% 98% 98% 99% 99%
Royalties 36.7 28.6 27.9 29.3 30.8 32.3% of total 3% 2% 2% 2% 1% 1%
Total Revenues 1302.4 1238.1 1614.8 1947.8 2293.5 2673.6growth -5% 30.4% 20.6% 17.7% 16.6%% of total 79% 79% 79% 78% 77% 77%No. of stores 195 206 234 274 313 352
Owned 166 177 207 251 292 333Franchise 29 29 27 23 21 19sales per DOS 4.4 5.4 5.8 6.2 6.7growth 23% 6% 7% 8%
EBITDA 250.4 249.8 453.6 590.9 718.8 864.6growth 0% 81.6% 30.3% 21.6% 20.3%margin 19.2% 20.2% 28.1% 30.3% 31.3% 32.3%% of total 89% 86% 85% 83% 80% 79%
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 61
Exhibit 132: Miu Miu Brand Year-end January, € mn
Note clothing refers to ready-to-wear
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Miu Miu Brand 2009 2010 2011 2012E 2013E 2014ENet sales by geographic area
Italy 55.7 51.8 61.3 74.8 89.8 106.0growth -7% 18% 22% 20% 18%% of total 23% 21% 17% 16% 15% 15%
Europe 60.8 55.8 70.1 85.6 102.7 121.2growth -8% 26% 22% 20% 18%% of total 25% 22% 20% 19% 18% 17%
North America 30.0 22.1 32.2 40.2 49.5 59.9growth -26% 46% 25% 23% 21%% of total 13% 9% 9% 9% 9% 8%
Asia-pacific 45.1 66.5 123.7 185.6 259.8 343.0growth 47% 86% 50% 40% 32%% of total 19% 26% 35% 40% 45% 48%
Japan 44.5 53.7 63.3 69.7 76.6 84.3growth 21% 18% 10% 10% 10%% of total 19% 21% 18% 15% 13% 12%
Other countries 3.4 2.5 2.3 2.8 3.3 4.0growth -27% -7% 20% 20% 20%% of total 1% 1% 1% 1% 1% 1%
Total 239.5 252.3 353.0 458.7 581.8 718.3growth 5% 39.9% 29.9% 26.8% 23.5%
Net sales by product lineClothing 54.0 46.5 63.3 80.3 100.3 121.9
growth -14% 36% 27% 25% 22%% of total 23% 18% 18% 18% 17% 17%
Leather goods 128.7 154.6 224.3 298.2 381.9 476.3growth 20% 45% 33% 28% 25%% of total 54% 61% 64% 65% 66% 66%
Footwear 56.1 50.2 63.7 77.6 96.9 117.3growth -11% 27% 22% 25% 21%% of total 23% 20% 18% 17% 17% 16%
Other 0.6 1.0 1.8 2.6 2.6 2.7growth 64% 69.6% 45% 1.4% 4.4%% of total 0% 0% 0% 1% 0% 0%
Total 239.5 252.3 353.0 458.7 581.8 718.3growth 5% 39.9% 29.9% 26.8% 23.5%
Net sales by distribution networkDOS - outlets included 132.9 177.3 264.4 364.8 492.5 635.4
growth 33% 49% 38% 35% 29%Store, Fx, % 31% 38% 30% 25% 19%LFL % 3% 12% 8% 10% 10%
Net sales 239.5 252.3 353.0 458.7 581.8 718.3growth 5% 39.9% 29.9% 26.8% 23.5%% of total 99% 99% 100% 100% 100% 100%
Royalties 2.4 1.7 1.5 1.9 2.0 2.1% of total 1% 1% 0% 0% 0% 0%
Total Revenues 241.9 254.0 354.5 460.6 583.8 720.4growth 8% 5% 39.6% 29.9% 26.7% 23.4%% of total 15% 16% 17% 18% 20% 21%No. of stores 39 57 77 113 151 189
Owned 36 51 71 109 147 185Franchise 3 6 6 4 4 4sales per DOS 3.7 3.5 3.7 3.3 3.4 3.4growth -6% 7% -10% 0% 3%
EBITDA 30.2 42.0 77.4 116.7 165.5 215.0growth 39% 84.5% 50.7% 41.7% 29.9%margin 12.5% 16.5% 21.8% 25.3% 28.3% 29.8%% of total 11% 14% 14% 16% 19% 20%
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 62
Exhibit 133: Prada Group revenues and EBITDA for Prada and Miu Miu brands Year-end January, € mn
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Sales by brand 2009 2010 2011 2012E 2013E 2014E
Prada Brand 2009 2010 2011 2012E 2013E 2014EStore, Fx, % 10% 19% 17% 14% 12%LFL % 2% 25% 12% 11% 11%
Net sales 1265.6 1209.5 1586.8 1918.5 2262.8 2641.3growth -4% 31.2% 20.9% 17.9% 16.7%% of total 97% 98% 98% 98% 99% 99%
Royalties 36.7 28.6 27.9 29.3 30.8 32.3% of total 3% 2% 2% 2% 1% 1%
Total Revenues 1302.4 1238.1 1614.8 1947.8 2293.5 2673.6growth -5% 30.4% 20.6% 17.7% 16.6%% of total 79% 79% 79% 78% 77% 77%No. of stores 195 206 234 274 313 352
Owned 166 177 207 251 292 333Franchise 29 29 27 23 21 19sales per DOS 4.4 5.4 5.8 6.2 6.7growth 23% 6% 7% 8%
EBITDA 250.4 249.8 453.6 590.9 718.8 864.6growth 0% 81.6% 30.3% 21.6% 20.3%margin 19.2% 20.2% 28.1% 30.3% 31.3% 32.3%% of total 89% 86% 85% 83% 80% 79%
Miu Miu Brand 2009 2010 2011 2012E 2013E 2014EStore, Fx, % 31% 38% 30% 25% 19%LFL % 3% 12% 8% 10% 10%
Net sales 239.5 252.3 353.0 458.7 581.8 718.3growth 5% 39.9% 29.9% 26.8% 23.5%% of total 99% 99% 100% 100% 100% 100%
Royalties 2.4 1.7 1.5 1.9 2.0 2.1% of total 1% 1% 0% 0% 0% 0%
Total Revenues 241.9 254.0 354.5 460.6 583.8 720.4growth 8% 5% 39.6% 29.9% 26.7% 23.4%% of total 15% 16% 17% 18% 20% 21%No. of stores 39 57 77 113 151 189
Owned 36 51 71 109 147 185Franchise 3 6 6 4 4 4sales per DOS 3.7 3.5 3.7 3.3 3.4 3.4growth -6% 7% -10% 0% 3%
EBITDA 30.2 42.0 77.4 116.7 165.5 215.0growth 39% 84.5% 50.7% 41.7% 29.9%margin 12.5% 16.5% 21.8% 25.3% 28.3% 29.8%% of total 11% 14% 14% 16% 19% 20%
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 63
Exhibit 134: Prada Group sales by geographical area Year-end January, € mn
The difference between total revenues and consolidated revenues is Royalty income.
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Net sales by geographic area 2009 2010 2011 2012E 2013E 2014EItaly 385.2 330.0 393.3 455.9 512.8 571.7
growth -14% 19% 16% 12% 11%Fx growth 0% 0% 0% 0%Comp Fx 19% 16% 12% 11%% of total 24% 22% 19% 19% 18% 17%No. of stores 36 36 42 49 56 63
Owned 31 31 37 44 51 58Franchise 5 5 5 5 5 5
Europe 436.3 373.0 450.5 520.0 584.7 651.7growth -15% 21% 15% 12% 11%Fx growth 1% 1% 0% 0%Comp Fx 19% 15% 12% 11%% of total 27% 24% 22% 21% 20% 19%No. of stores 74 86 101 120 139 158
Owned 63 73 88 108 128 148Franchise 11 13 13 12 11 10
North America 290.0 227.8 294.9 345.9 390.2 432.8growth -21% 29% 17% 13% 11%Fx growth 8% 7% 0% 0%Comp Fx 21% 10% 13% 11%% of total 18% 15% 15% 14% 13% 13%No. of stores 20 21 34 49 64 79
Owned 20 21 34 49 64 79Franchise 0 0 0 0 0 0
Asia-pacific 282.7 396.1 645.7 883.8 1173.4 1506.7growth 40% 63% 37% 33% 28%Fx growth 14% 2% 0% 0%Comp Fx 49% 35% 33% 28%% of total 18% 26% 32% 36% 40% 44%No. of stores 84 102 117 145 173 201
Owned 72 87 104 134 164 194Franchise 12 15 13 11 9 7
Japan 186.8 189.4 220.9 233.6 247.1 261.5growth 1% 17% 6% 6% 6%Fx growth 14% 1% 0% 0%Comp Fx 3% 5% 6% 6%% of total 12% 12% 11% 10% 8% 8%No. of stores 52 53 56 58 60 62
Owned 52 53 56 58 60 62Franchise 0 0 0 0 0 0
Other countries 23.1 14.2 11.8 12.7 15.2 18.1growth -38% -17% 8% 19% 19%Fx growth -17%Comp Fx% of total 1% 1% 1% 1% 1% 1%No. of stores 4 2 2 11 20 29
Owned 0 0 0 12 20 28Franchise 4 2 2 -1 0 1
Total 1604.1 1530.6 2017.1 2451.9 2923.3 3442.5growth -5% 32% 22% 19% 18%Fx growth 2% 0% 0%Comp Fx 20% 19% 18%No. of stores 270 300 352 432 512 592
Owned 238 265 319 405 487 569Franchise 32 35 33 27 25 23
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 64
Exhibit 135: Prada Group sales by product line Year-end January, € mn
NB clothing refers to ready-to-wear. The difference between total revenues and consolidated revenues is Royalty income.
Source: Company data, Goldman Sachs Research estimates.
Net sales by product line 2009 2010 2011 2012E 2013E 2014EClothing 470.8 396.4 483.6 567.0 668.2 777.7
growth -16% 22% 17% 18% 16%% of total 29% 26% 24% 23% 23% 23%
Leather goods 634.1 711.6 1013.6 1291.1 1567.5 1877.5growth 12% 42% 27% 21% 20%% of total 40% 46% 50% 53% 54% 55%
Footwear 488.4 410.5 503.1 573.1 664.9 763.2growth -16% 23% 14% 16% 15%% of total 30% 27% 25% 23% 23% 22%
Other 10.8 12.0 16.8 20.7 22.6 24.1growth -17% 11% 39% 23% 10% 7%% of total 1% 1% 1% 1% 1% 1%
Total 1604.1 1530.6 2017.1 2451.9 2923.3 3442.5growth -1% -5% 32% 22% 19% 18%
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 65
Appendix 3: Global Luxury Sector Performance
Exhibit 136: Global Luxury share price performance
Source: Datastream.
1M 3M 12M YTDPrada 4.4%Burberry 3.1% 15.4% 76.2% 32.9%Hermes 20.4% 52.2% 85.1% 53.6%LVMH 4.4% 5.5% 39.0% 3.9%PPR 5.7% 6.8% 26.0% 8.4%Richemont -6.3% -8.7% 25.2% -7.2%Swatch 1.7% 0.6% 32.5% 2.7%Tod's 3.3% 1.9% 69.0% 26.3%Luxottica 1.1% -0.9% 12.3% -3.1%Average 2.2% 3.0% 40.0% 9.2%Coach 4.0% 7.9% 77.1% 16.7%Polo Ralph Lauren 3.1% 3.3% 72.5% 21.8%Tiffany 2.4% 14.6% 91.7% 27.8%Average 3.1% 8.6% 80.5% 22.1%Belle International 5.3% 12.5% 42.4% 29.8%Trinity 15.8% 2.9% 71.1% 5.5%Hengdeli -3.3% -16.8% 6.6% -16.4%L'Occitane 3.6% 15.3% 25.6% -0.2%Average 2.1% -1.8% 25.9% -31.6%
Macy's 0.4% 20.7% 54.9% 14.1%Nordstrom 8.9% 5.5% 49.6% 18.4%Saks -3.6% -10.2% 30.5% 0.4%Average 1.9% 5.3% 45.0% 10.9%Golden Eagle Retail Group -0.6% -5.4% 6.5% 0.5%Maoye International -7.5% -5.3% 18.8% 6.0%Lifestyle International 17.0% 14.9% 61.2% 33.2%Parkson Retail Group -2.0% -8.1% -17.0% -8.5%New World Department stores -4.4% -15.8% -15.7% -189.2%Intime Department Store 2.0% 7.8% 57.3% 15.0%Average 0.8% -2.0% 18.5% -23.8%
Performance
Europe
Luxu
ry a
nd P
rem
ium
Bra
nds
Asia
US
Dep
artm
ent s
tore
s
US
Asia
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 66
Reg AC
We, William Hutchings, Joshua Lu, Szilvia Bor and Lucy Baldwin, hereby certify that all of the views expressed in this report accurately reflect our
personal views about the subject company or companies and its or their securities. We also certify that no part of our compensation was, is or will
be, directly or indirectly, related to the specific recommendations or views expressed in this report.
Investment Profile
The Goldman Sachs Investment Profile provides investment context for a security by comparing key attributes of that security to its peer group and
market. The four key attributes depicted are: growth, returns, multiple and volatility. Growth, returns and multiple are indexed based on composites
of several methodologies to determine the stocks percentile ranking within the region's coverage universe.
The precise calculation of each metric may vary depending on the fiscal year, industry and region but the standard approach is as follows:
Growth is a composite of next year's estimate over current year's estimate, e.g. EPS, EBITDA, Revenue. Return is a year one prospective aggregate
of various return on capital measures, e.g. CROCI, ROACE, and ROE. Multiple is a composite of one-year forward valuation ratios, e.g. P/E, dividend
yield, EV/FCF, EV/EBITDA, EV/DACF, Price/Book. Volatility is measured as trailing twelve-month volatility adjusted for dividends.
Quantum
Quantum is Goldman Sachs' proprietary database providing access to detailed financial statement histories, forecasts and ratios. It can be used for
in-depth analysis of a single company, or to make comparisons between companies in different sectors and markets.
GS SUSTAIN
GS SUSTAIN is a global investment strategy aimed at long-term, long-only performance with a low turnover of ideas. The GS SUSTAIN focus list
includes leaders our analysis shows to be well positioned to deliver long term outperformance through sustained competitive advantage and
superior returns on capital relative to their global industry peers. Leaders are identified based on quantifiable analysis of three aspects of corporate
performance: cash return on cash invested, industry positioning and management quality (the effectiveness of companies' management of the
environmental, social and governance issues facing their industry).
Disclosure Appendix
Coverage group(s) of stocks by primary analyst(s)
William Hutchings: Europe-General Retail. Joshua Lu: Asia Pacific Consumer and Retail, Hong Kong/China Consumer. Lucy Baldwin: Europe-
General Retail.
Asia Pacific Consumer and Retail: Ajisen China Holdings, Amorepacific, CJ CheilJedang, CJ O Shopping, DongA Pharmaceutical, Far Eastern
Department Stores, Gourmet Master, Grand Korea Leisure Co., GS Home Shopping, Hana Tour Service, Hanmi Pharm, Hyundai Department Store,
Kangwon Land, KT&G, LG Household & Healthcare, Lotte Shopping, Orion, President Chain Store, Ruentex Industries, Shinsegae, Stella
International Holdings, Uni-President Enterprise, Woongjin Coway, Yue Yuen Industrial, Yuhan Corporation.
Europe-General Retail: adidas, Benetton Group, Bulgari S.p.A., Burberry, Debenhams, Dixons Retail plc, Douglas Holding AG, Essilor, Fielmann,
Geox, Halfords Group, Hennes & Mauritz, Hermes International, Home Retail Group, Hugo Boss AG (Pref), Inditex, KappAhl Holding AB, KESA,
Kingfisher, Luxottica (Italy), LVMH Moet-Hennessy Louis Vuitton, Marks & Spencer, Mothercare PLC, N Brown Group, Next, Pandora, Pinault
Printemps-Redoute, Prada SpA, Puma, Richemont, Signet Jewelers, Stockmann, SuperGroup, The Swatch Group (Bearer share), Ted Baker, Tod's.
Hong Kong/China Consumer: 361 Degrees International, Anta Sports Products, Beijing Wangfujing Department Store (Group) Co., Belle
International Holdings, Bosideng International Holdings, China Dongxiang Group, Daphne International Holdings, Dashang Group Co, Esprit
Holdings, GD Midea Holding, Golden Eagle Retail Group, Gome Electrical Appliances Holding, Gree Electric Appliances, Guangzhou Friendship
Group Co, Haier Electronics Group, Hefei Rongshida Sanyo Electric, Hisense Electric Co., Hisense Kelon Electrical Holdings (A), Hisense Kelon
Electrical Holdings (H), Hunan Friendship & Apo. Co, Intime Department Store (Group) Co., Li & Fung, Li Ning Company, Lifestyle International
Holdings, Maoye International Holdings, New World Department Store China, Parkson Retail Group, Peak Sport Products, Ports Design, Qingdao
Haier Company, Samsonite International SA, Shanghai Bailian Group Co, Shanghai Metersbonwe Fashion & Accessories Co., Skyworth Digital,
Suning Appliance Co., TCL Multimedia, Wuhan Department Store Group Co., Wuxi Little Swan Company (A), Wuxi Little Swan Company (B), Xtep
International Holdings.
Company-specific regulatory disclosures
The following disclosures relate to relationships between The Goldman Sachs Group, Inc. (with its affiliates, "Goldman Sachs") and companies
covered by the Global Investment Research Division of Goldman Sachs and referred to in this research.
Goldman Sachs has received compensation for investment banking services in the past 12 months: Prada SpA (HK$45.65)
Goldman Sachs expects to receive or intends to seek compensation for investment banking services in the next 3 months: Prada SpA (HK$45.65)
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 67
Goldman Sachs has received compensation for non-investment banking services during the past 12 months: Prada SpA (HK$45.65)
Goldman Sachs had an investment banking services client relationship during the past 12 months with: Prada SpA (HK$45.65)
Goldman Sachs had a non-investment banking securities-related services client relationship during the past 12 months with: Prada SpA (HK$45.65)
Goldman Sachs had a non-securities services client relationship during the past 12 months with: Prada SpA (HK$45.65)
Goldman Sachs has managed or co-managed a public or Rule 144A offering in the past 12 months: Prada SpA (HK$45.65)
Distribution of ratings/investment banking relationships
Goldman Sachs Investment Research global coverage universe
Rating Distribution Investment Banking Relationships
Buy Hold Sell Buy Hold Sell
Global 32% 54% 14% 52% 41% 37%
As of July 1, 2011, Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research had investment ratings on 3,167 equity securities. Goldman Sachs assigns stocks as
Buys and Sells on various regional Investment Lists; stocks not so assigned are deemed Neutral. Such assignments equate to Buy, Hold and Sell for
the purposes of the above disclosure required by NASD/NYSE rules. See 'Ratings, Coverage groups and views and related definitions' below.
Regulatory disclosures
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Ratings, coverage groups and views and related definitions
Buy (B), Neutral (N), Sell (S) -Analysts recommend stocks as Buys or Sells for inclusion on various regional Investment Lists. Being assigned a Buy
or Sell on an Investment List is determined by a stock's return potential relative to its coverage group as described below. Any stock not assigned
as a Buy or a Sell on an Investment List is deemed Neutral. Each regional Investment Review Committee manages various regional Investment
August 4, 2011 Prada SpA (1913.HK)
Goldman Sachs Global Investment Research 68
Lists to a global guideline of 25%-35% of stocks as Buy and 10%-15% of stocks as Sell; however, the distribution of Buys and Sells in any particular
coverage group may vary as determined by the regional Investment Review Committee. Regional Conviction Buy and Sell lists represent
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Return potential represents the price differential between the current share price and the price target expected during the time horizon associated
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following 12 months is favorable relative to the coverage group's historical fundamentals and/or valuation. Neutral (N). The investment outlook
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outlook over the following 12 months is unfavorable relative to the coverage group's historical fundamentals and/or valuation.
Not Rated (NR). The investment rating and target price have been removed pursuant to Goldman Sachs policy when Goldman Sachs is acting in
an advisory capacity in a merger or strategic transaction involving this company and in certain other circumstances. Rating Suspended (RS). Goldman Sachs Research has suspended the investment rating and price target for this stock, because there is not a sufficient fundamental basis
for determining, or there are legal, regulatory or policy constraints around publishing, an investment rating or target. The previous investment
rating and price target, if any, are no longer in effect for this stock and should not be relied upon. Coverage Suspended (CS). Goldman Sachs has
suspended coverage of this company. Not Covered (NC). Goldman Sachs does not cover this company. Not Available or Not Applicable (NA). The information is not available for display or is not applicable. Not Meaningful (NM). The information is not meaningful and is therefore excluded.
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