PATTERN ALTERATION TECHNIQUE

- SKIRTS

INTRODUCTION

Sometimes you buy a skirt ,that u find a little tweaking.

Sometimes you just want to make a change the garment.

Altering your skirt can improve fit and give your wardrobe new life.

GENERAL PRINCIPLES

The following four general principles for pattern alterations are:

Preserve pattern outline as far as possible.

Preserve the original grain line so as to make slashes or folds either parallel or perpendicular to the grain line wherever needed.

When altering adjoining edges, proportional lengths must be preserved.

PRINCIPLE

Slash – and – spread method. Slash – and – lap method. Pleat method.

SLASH SPREAD TECHNIQUE

Draw a line across the pattern at the place where it is to be enlarged.

Matching notches may be made on either side of this line if the pattern is to be put back together accurately.

When the whole section of the pattern is to be enlarged, draw two parallel lines across a piece of heavy paper, the space between the line equal to the amount the pattern is to be enlarged.

SLASH SPREAD TECHNIQUE

Slash the pattern and pin along these lines.

When the enlargement extends only partially through the pattern section, slash, spread, and pin to heavy paper.

If the slash crosses the grain line be sure this grain line is kept straight when the pattern is spread.

SLASH AND LAP METHOD

it is widely used for wedged shapes. Lap the desired amount and taper

the slash as needed to make the pattern lie flat for cutting.

Pin to the paper and make necessary alterations

PLEAT METHOD

Draw two parallel lines across the pattern at the place it is to be shortened. The space between these lines equal to the amount, the pattern is to be decreased.

Fold on one line and bring it to the other line. The folded pleat will be half the width of the total decrease.

ALTERING SKIRT BLOCKS

Some of the basic pattern alterations of various figure types :

Protruding derriere Flat derriere Protruding abdomen Wide hip Flat hip

PROTURDING DERRIERE

Problem : Because of the

protruding back portion, the skirt rides up when worn. Hence, you need to increase the pattern at the width and also increase the length of the pattern.

PROTUDING DERRIERE

solution : Take the skirt back block. Draw a slash line from the waistline

to the hemline parallel to the centre back. Slash through the dart nearer to the centre back.

Similarly, at the hip area slash across the pattern form the centre back side seam.

Now, spread the pattern to the required amount along the width and the length of the pattern.

Redraw the dart and the seam lines. The new dart at the waistline would be larger than the original dart.

FLAT DERRIERE

Problem : Loose garment hangs at the

hipline Solution : Take the skirt back block. Draw a slash line from the waistline to the

hemline parallel to the centre back. Slash through the dart nearer to the centre back.

Similarly, at the hip area slash across the pattern form the centre back to the side seam

FLAT DERRIERE

Now, overlap the pattern to the required amount along the width and the length of the pattern.

Redraw the dart and the seam lines.

You can observe the small new dart than the original one.

PROTURDING ABDOMEN

Problem : The skirt riding up in the

front. Solution : Take the skirt front and slash from

the waistline to the hemline parallel to the centre front.

Slash through the dart nearer through the centre front.

PROTURDING ABDOMEN

The required amount should be increased at the width and the length.

Redraw the new dart and the seam lines. The new dart will be larger than the original.

Spread the pattern across the pattern from centre front to the side seam.

WIDE HIPS

Take the skirt front block and draw a slash line from the hemline up to the thigh or hip area.

Slash the pattern and spread to the desired amount.

Finally, redraw the seam line from the waistline to the hem line.

Similar changes need to be done on the skirt back block.

FLAT HIPS

Take the skirt front block and fold the desired amount along the side seam of the skirt.

Care should be taken to fold parallel to the centre front.

Similar changes need to be done on the skirt back block also.

S

LENGTH AJUSTMENTS

The length adjustments can be done in two ways.

Increasing the length Decreasing the length

INCREASING THE LENGTH

Place a piece of paper under the pattern and tape the alteration in place.

True up seam line by connecting existing seam line with pencil.

It can also lengthened by adding to bottom of pattern.

DECREASE THE PATTERN

Fold the pattern along alteration line half of desired amount.

Pin or tape these folds in place. True up side seam by trimming

away excess. It can also be shortened by cutting

the pattern off at desired length. When shortening do not forget to

allow up for hem.

CIRCUMFERENCE ADJUSTMENTS

It can be done by simply adding outside edges of pattern pieces.

Divide the amount to be added by number of garment seams.

Do not include CF ,CB saems in the count.

Using Slash and Spread method , it is possible to add fullness to pattern but the amount is restricted to 5” to 6”.

CONCLUSION

Altering paper patterns may seem complex and confusing, but in reality it is all based on very simple principles.