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Patisserie a Step-By-step Guide to Baking French Pastries at Home
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Transcript of Patisserie a Step-By-step Guide to Baking French Pastries at Home
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Murielle Valette was born into a family of French chefs. She has been making andenjoyingfoodforaslongasshecanremember.Learningthefamilytraditionfirst,shewasthenclassicallytrainedandworkedalongsidethebestchefsinFranceandtheUK.AfterfifteenyearsoflearninghowtocreatedesPâtisseriesàlafrançaise,sheisnowrenownedfor her unique combination of French-inspired cooking with English flavours andtraditions. Head pastry chef at theMichelin-starred restaurant OckendenManor Hotel,southofLondon,MuriellededicateshertimeandenergytosharingherpassionforFrenchpastryintheUK.
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Pâtisserie
MURIELLEVALETTEConstable•London
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Constable&RobinsonLtd
55–56RussellSquare
LondonWC1B4HP
www.constablerobinson.com
FirstpublishedintheUKbyConstable,
animprintofConstable&RobinsonLtd,2013
Copyright©MurielleValette2013
Photographs©LisaDevlin2013
TherightofMurielleValettetobeidentifiedastheauthorofthis
workhasbeenassertedbyherinaccordancewiththe
Copyright,DesignsandPatentsAct1988
Allrightsreserved.Thisbookissoldsubjecttotheconditionthatitshallnot,bywayoftradeorotherwise,belent,resold,hiredoutorotherwisecirculatedinanyformofbindingorcoverotherthanthatinwhichitispublishedand
withoutasimilarconditionincludingthisconditionbeingimposedonthesubsequentpurchaser.
AcopyoftheBritishLibraryCataloguingin
PublicationDataisavailablefromtheBritishLibrary
ISBN978-1-9089-7413-6(tradepaperback)
ISBN978-1-4721-1014-5(ebook)
PrintedandboundintheUK
13579108642
Coverdesign:www.mousematdesign.com
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ToMamie,JeanneSalvagnac(1922-2010),mylovinggrandmotherwhointroducedmetopâtisserieasachild.
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Contents
Preface
ThebasictechniquesSweetshortcrustpastry
Sweetpastry
Sabléepastry
Puffpastry
Chouxpastry
Croissantdough
Briochedough
Savarindough
Génoisesponge
Crèmeanglaise
Crèmepâtissière
Almondcream
Buttercream
Chantillycream
Frenchmeringue
Italianmeringue
Chapter1–SweetshortcrustpastryHowtolineatarttin
Appleandcinnamontart
Mymother’srhubarbtart
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Greengagetart
Howtoblindbakeapastrybase
Alsatianappletart
Parisianflantart
Blueberryandlemontart
Chapter2–SweetpastryCaramelizedlemontart
Howtomakeadarkchocolatemoussefilling
Deliciouslylightchocolatetart
Apricotandalmondtart
Fig,honeyandalmondtart
Howtopoachpears
Pear,chocolateandalmondtart
Basquecustardandblackcherrypie
Walnuttart
Chapter3–SabléepastrySourcherryandpistachiotartlets
Howtomakeawhitechocolateandvanillamousse
Raspberryandwhitechocolatetart
Strawberrytart
Warmchocolatetartlets
Lemonmeringuepies
Milkchocolateandhazelnuttartlets
Chapter4–PuffpastryAppletartTatin
Summerfruitspufftartlets
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Fineplumtart
TwelfthNightcake:almondpithivier
Cherryandhazelnutpithiviers
Appleandblackberryturnovers
Vanillamillefeuille
Whitechocolateandraspberrymillefeuilles
Darkchocolatemillefeuille
Chapter5–ChouxpastryChantillychoux
Chocolateéclairs
Chocolateprofiteroles
Rocsugarchoux
Icedcoffeecreamchoux
Howtomakeacaramel
Frenchweddingcake
Saint-Honoréchouxcake
Pralinechouxcake
Chapter6–RisingdoughsHowtorollupcroissants
Howtorollupalmondcroissants
Howtorolluppainsauchocolat
Howtorolluppainsauxraisins
Croissants,almondcroissants,painsauchocolat,painsauxraisins
Parisianbrioches
Pinkpralinebrioche
ChocolateViennabreads
Kugelhopf
Saint-Tropeztart
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Aveyronprunetart
Cherryandcinnamonbriochetart
Rumbabawithvanillawhippedcream
Kirschsavarinswithcherrycompote
Chapter7–Flans,creamsandeggbattersCherryclafoutis
Mygrandmother’spearclafoutis
WestIndianflan
Frenchtoast
Howtomakeapancakemix
OrangeandGrandMarnierpancakes
Floatingislands
EarlGreycrèmebrûlée
Mymother’scrèmecaramel
Darkchocolateandorangemousse
Coffee,vanillaandchocolatebavarois
Lemonsoufflé
Chapter8–SpongecakesApricotjamrouladecake
Howtomakeahomemadepralinepaste
PralineChristmaslog
Coffeemoka
BakedAlaska
Strawberryandpistachiocreamsponge
Howtomakechocolateshavings
Doublechocolateandraspberrysponge
Chestnutandpearcharlotte
Howtomakeahazelnutdacquoise
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Hazelnutlayercake
Chocolateandorangecake
BlackForestgateau
Chapter9–SweettreatsDarkchocolateandlemonmadeleines
Apricotfinanciers
Cannelés
Howtomakemacaroons
Raspberrymacaroons
Lemonmacaroons
Hazelnutandmilkchocolatemacaroons
Flakedalmondtuiles
Darkchocolateflorentines
Bretonsbiscuits
Nini’ssablésbiscuits
Fingerbiscuits
Rolledbiscuits
Frenchmeringues
Spongefingers
Heart-shapedbiscuits
Crispcinnamonbiscuits
Acknowledgements
Index
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Preface
This book is a tribute to passion: passion for pâtisserie and passion for France. It is acelebrationofaFrenchartdevivreandis intendedforallFrancophilesandchefs inthemaking.Inthisbookyouwillfindrecipesthatcoverawholerangeofexquisitepâtisserie–fromfamilydessertstoclassicandtraditionalFrenchpâtisserie.Iwanttosharewithyourecipes frommy childhood that I learnt frommyMaman, who herself learnt from hermother.
A common misconception that surrounds French pâtisserie is that it is difficult tomake. You will discover in this book the well-kept secrets of French pastry chefs; allclassicFrenchpâtisserie isbuilt arounda fewbasic techniques andcore recipes. Ifyoulearntomaster these,youcanrecreateanyFrenchdessertfromthesimplest tothemostcomplicated.YouwillthenbeabletoserveathomewhatyouseeinthepastryshopsandbakeriesoreatinthetraditionalrestaurantsandbistrosinFrance.
Ihavecookedforas longasIcanremember.Thispassionisstillcentral tomylife,bothathomeandatwork.Iaimtoshowthatitiseasytobringtheworkofprofessionalpastry chefs into every home. Everybody can learn how to bake French desserts if therecipesareexplainedproperly.Followingthisbookwillhopefullybeliketakingaprivatepastrycourseathome.
Intherichlyillustratedfirstsection,youwillfindmanypicturesexplainingthebasictechniquesstepbystep.Themainpartof thebookcontainsall therecipes,organizedinchapters by pastry type. Most recipes will use one or several of the basic techniquesexplainedatthebeginningofthebook.Italsocontainsshortcutsandprofessionaltipsforsuccessfulandrapidpastry-makingathome.
Etvoilà! Ihope thisbookwillbecomeyour favouritecompanion in thekitchenandgiveyouthepleasureofsharingamazingdessertswiththoseyoulove.
Happybaking!
Murielle
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Thebasictechniques
The most important thing when making French pâtisserie is a good pair of hands. Ofcourse,electricmixersorfoodprocessorscanbeusedtoaccelerateandsimplifytheworkbut ultimately everything canbe donebyhand.Ahandwhiskworks just aswell as anelectricwhisk,anelectricpaddlecanbereplacedbyaspatulaandthedoughhookbyyourhands.Usingyourhandsisalittlebitmorephysicalofcourse,butquitesatisfying.
AtworkandathomeIprefertoworkonamarbleorstonesurface,butmostsurfaceswillsufficeaslongastheyaresmoothandfairlycold.(Iftheworksurfaceiswarm,youcancoolitdownwithicecubesandwipeitdry.)
Thereare,however,afewpiecesofcookingequipmentthatIwouldrecommendyoubuyifyoudonotalreadyhavethemathome:
•Asugarthermometer
•Ablowtorchforcaramelizingtartsandcreams
•Acoupleofnon-stickbakingtrays
•Asiliconematforcookingspongeandbiscuits
•Pipingbagswithasetofnozzlestofillordecoratecakes
Ifyouarecontemplatingbuyingnewmoulds,Irecommendnon-stickloose-bottomcakeor tart tins.However, somerecipes in thebook, likesavarinsormadeleines, require thepurchaseofspecificmoulds.
Thebakingphaseisasimportantasthemakingofthedessert.Allovensaredifferentandyouknowyourovenbest.So,followthecookingtemperaturesandtimesinthisbookbutalsokeepacloseeyeonwhatisgoingonintheoventoensureyougetagoodbake.Ideally,allpâtisseriesshouldbecookedinafanovenbecausethetemperatureinsidetheovenisevenlydistributed.Astaticovencanalsobeusedbutitwillrequiremorecareandeventuallysomeadjustmentsofthetemperatureandthecookingtime.
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Sweetshortcrustpastry
LAPÂTEBRISÉESUCRÉE
Idealforcookedfruitandcustardtarts,usenon-fragilefruitslikeapples,pears,apricots,plumsetc,withthispastry.Thefruitsandtheshortcrustpastrycanbecooked
simultaneously.For500gofpastry/Preparationtime:15minutes/Restingtimeinfridge:1hour
INGREDIENTS
250gplainflour
160gcoldbutter,diced
50mlmilk,atroomtemperature
5gsalt
15gcastersugar
1mediumeggyolk
BYHAND
1.Puttheflouranddicedbutterontoaworksurface.
2.Useyourfingertipstocoateachpieceofbutterwithflour.Then,withbothhands,workthemixtureuntilithasasandytexture.
3.Makeawellandpourthemilkintoitscentre.Addthesaltandcastersugaranddissolvetheminthemilkbystiringusingyourfingertips.Finally,addtheeggyolk.
4.Graduallyincorporatetheflourmixintotheliquid,startingfromtheinsideofthewell.
5.Whentheliquidhasdisappeared,usebothhandstomixthepastryuntilithasanevenconsistency.Donotoverworkit–whenalltheingredientsarecombined,itisready.
6.Gatherthepastryintoarectangularshape(3cmthick)tomakeiteasiertorollout.Wrapinclingfilmandrestinthefridgeforaminimumof1hour.
USINGAFOODPROCESSORORANELECTRICMIXERWITHAPADDLE
Ataslowspeed,mixtheflour,butter,castersugarandsaltuntilthemixturehasasandytexture. Add the milk and egg yolk, and mix until it has an even consistency(a fewsecondsisgenerallyenough).
GOODTOKNOW
Therestingtimeinthefridgeisnecessary.Itrelaxesthepastry,makesiteasiertorolloutandstopsitfromshrinkingduringcooking.
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Sweetpastry
LAPÂTESUCRÉE
Thissweetpastryissweeterthanthesweetshortcrustpastryandmainlyusedforblindbakedalmondcream,flanandchocolatetarts.
For500gofpastry/Preparationtime:15minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:1hour
[INGREDIENTS]
230gplainflour
1smallpinchofsalt
140gcoldbutter,diced
1mediumegg
55gcastersugar
BYHAND
1.Puttheflour,saltanddicedbutterontotheworksurface.
2.Useyourfingertipstocoateachpieceofbutterwithflour,then,withbothhands,workthemixtureuntilithasasandytexture.
3.Makeawellandputtheeggandcastersugarinitscentre.
4.Useyourfingertipstomixtheeggwiththecastersugar,thenincorporatetheflourmix,startingattheinsideofthewell,untilithasanevenconsistency.Donotoverwork–whenalltheingredientsarecombined,itisready.
5.Gatherthepastryintoarectangularshape(3cmthick)tomakeiteasiertorollout.Wrapinclingfilmandrestinthefridgeforaminimumof1hour.
USINGAFOODPROCESSORORANELECTRICMIXERWITHAPADDLE
Atslowspeed,mix the flour, salt, caster sugarandbutteruntil themixturehasa sandytexture.Addtheeggandmixuntilithasanevenconsistency(afewsecondsisgenerallyenough).Seethestep-by-stepphotosonpage7–themethodissimilar.
GOODTOKNOW
Thesweetshortcrustpastry,thesweetpastryandthesabléerecipesmake500gofpastry.For each 500g recipe, one egg is needed.A tart usually requires about 300g of pastry.Sinceitisdifficulttodivideanegg,Irecommendthefollowinglittletip:asrawpastrycanbefrozenwithoutdamage,youcandoublethebasicquantityofingredientsanddividethepastryintothreeparts.Keeponepartinthefridgeandfreezetheothertwoforlateruse.Whenneeded,defrost thepastryovernight in the fridgeand itwillbe ready foruse the
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followingmorning.
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Sabléepastry
LAPÂTESABLÉE
Crispyandcrumbly,sabléepastryisusedblindbakedforfreshfruits,creamandchocolatetartsortartlets.
For500gofpastry/Preparationtime:15minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:1hour
[INGREDIENTS]
260gplainflour
1smallpinchofsalt
120gicingsugar
120gcoldbutter,diced
1mediumegg
USINGAFOODPROCESSORORANELECTRICMIXERWITHAPADDLE
Seethestep-by-stepphotosonpage7
1.Atslowspeed,mixtheflour,salt,icingsugarandbutteruntilthemixturehasasandytexture.
2.Addtheegg.
3.Thenmixuntilithasanevenconsistency(afewsecondsisgenerallyenough).
4.Gatherthepastryintoarectangularshape(3cmhigh)andwrapitinclingfilm.Setinthefridgeforaminimumof1hour.
BYHAND
Seethestep-by-stepphotosforthesweetpastryonpage9–themethodissimilar.
1.Puttheflour,salt,icingsugaranddicedbutterontoaworksurface.
2. Use your fingertips to coat each piece of butter with the flourmix, then, with bothhands,workthemixtureuntilithasasandytexture.
3.Makeawellandaddtheeggtoitscentre.
4.Useyourfingertipstorubtheeggintotheflourmixuntilithasanevenconsistency.Donotoverwork–whenalltheingredientsarecombined,it’sready.
5.Gatherthepastryintoarectangularshape(3cmthick)tomakeiteasiertorollout.Wrapitinclingfilmandrestinthefridgeforaminimumof1hour.
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Puffpastry
LAPÂTEFEUILLETÉE
FlakypastryorroughpuffpastryarecommonlyusedinsteadofpuffpastryinBritain.Theyconsistofdicedbuttercombinedwiththedoughandfoldedtogetherinsteadofa
blockofbutterfoldedinsidethedough.For1.3kgofpastry/Preparationtime:40minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:2½hours
INGREDIENTS
400gplainflour
100gwhitebreadflour(T55)
10gsalt
300mlwater
1teaspoonwhitewinevinegar
500gcoldbutter(2×250gpacks)
MakethedoughBYHAND
1.Sifttheplainflourandthewhitebreadflourontotheworksurfaceandmakeawellinthecentre.
2. Add the salt, water and white wine vinegar. (The vinegar will stop the pastry fromturninggreyafter24hoursinthefridge.)
3.Using your fingertips, gradually incorporate the flour, starting from the inside of thewell.
4.Whenthemixturethickens,useyourhandstobringittogetheruntilitformsadough.
5.Formaballwithoutkneading.Coverthedoughinclingfilmandstoreinthefridgefor30minutes.
Preparingthebutter
Seestep-by-stepphotosincroissantdoughrecipe(steps5and6),page17.
6.Layout2piecesofclingfilm(40×60cm)ontopofeachotherontheworksurface.
7. Put the butter in themiddle and fold over the cling film, leaving a gap between thebutter and the edgeof the cling film to allow the butter to spread.Use a rolling pin tomakeasquare1cmthick.
8.Storeflatinthefridgefor30minutes.
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Foldingthepastry(6folds)
9.Removethebutterfromthefridgeandleaveittowarmupfor15minutes.Onaflouredworksurface,rolloutthedoughintoalargesquare(40×40cm)andputthebutterintoitscentre(seediagram1aopposite).
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10.Wrap the butter by folding over the corners of the dough as shown in diagram 1bbelow.
Thefirst2folds(seediagram2aabove).
11.Onaflouredworksurface,rollouttoformarectanglethatmeasures30×60cm.
12.Removeexcessflourwithabrushorthepalmofyourhands.Foldthebottomsectionofthepastryintothemiddle(seediagram2babove).
13.Thenfoldthetopthirdontop(seediagram2cabove).
14.Rotatethepastry90°counter-clockwise(seediagram2dabove).You’vemadethefirstfold.
15.Repeatsteps11to14tomakethesecondfold.
16.Markthetoprightcornerwithtwofingerprints.Itwillhelpyourememberhowmanyfoldsyouhavemade.Wrapthepastryinclingfilmtopreventitdryingoutandplaceinthefridgefor30minutes.
The3rdand4thfolds
17.Take the pastry out of the fridge and place it on the flouredwork surfacewith theopening(marked inblack in thedrawing)onyour right-handside.Thiswillensure thatyoudonotundothefoldyoumadeearlier.Repeattheprocessforthefirst2folds.
18.Markthetop-rightcornerwith4fingerprintsandwrapitinclingfilm.Putthepastryinthefridgefor30minutes.
The5thand6thfolds
19.Take the pastry out of the fridge and place it on the flouredwork surfacewith theopeningonyourright-handside.Repeattheprocessforthefirsttwofoldsagain.
20.Wrapthepastryinclingfilmandplaceitinthefridgefor30minutesbeforeuse.
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Chouxpastry
LAPÂTEÀCHOUX
ChouxpastryisusedinthemakingofindividualpastrieslikeChantillychoux,éclairsorprofiterolesandalsofamilycakeslikeParis-Brest,Saint-Honoréorcroquembouche.
Makes60largechouxor40éclairs(700gofpastry)/Preparationtime:20minutesBakingtime:15–20minutesat200°C/400°F/GasMark6+15–20minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3todryout.(Thebaking
timewillchangeaccordingtothesizeofthepieces.)
INGREDIENTS
250mlwater
100gbutter,diced
5gsalt
12gcastersugar
125gwhitebreadflour,sifted
4mediumeggs
1beatenegg,toglaze
BYHAND
1.Inasaucepan,bringthewater,dicedbutter,saltandsugartotheboiluntilthewaterandmeltedbutterarecombined.
2.Takethesaucepanofftheheatandaddalltheflour.Withaspatula,stirgentlyatfirst,thenvigorously,untiltheflourisfullyincorporated.
3.Putthesaucepanbackonthehob,atmediumheat,todryoutthemix.Keepstirringforabout30secondsuntilthemixtureisnolongerstickingtothesaucepanandthespatula.
4.Pourthemixintoalargebowlandstirintheeggsoneatatimewithaspatula.(Thisstepcanalsobedonewithanelectricmixerfittedwithapaddle.)
5. To check the consistency of the mixture, take out some pastry with the tip of thespatula:theendofthepastryshouldslidebackdownandformapeakstillattachedtothespatula.
6.Fillapipingbagfittedwitha largenozzleanduse thedoughstraightaway.Onnon-sticktrays,pipethechouxoréclairsinstaggeredrows.
7.Dipaforkorapastrybrushinthebeateneggandusetoleveloutthepastry.
8.Placearamekinfilledwith1cmofboilingwateratthebottomoftheovenandbakethechouxpastryinthecentre.Thefirst15minutesofbakingmustbedonewiththeovendoorclosedatalltimestoavoidtheriskofthechouxpastrycollapsing.
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GOODTOKNOW
Thissmallamountofpastrywillmakealotofchoux.Youcaneitherdividetherecipeinhalformakeitallandfreezeanyexcess.Themixturecanbepipedontogreaseproofpaperandfrozenrawforlateruse.
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Croissantdough
LAPÂTEÀCROISSANTS
Thecroissantdoughismadethesamewayasthepuffpastry.Butthecroissantdoughisricherandonly4foldsaremade.Itcanalsobeusedtomakealmondcroissants,painsau
chocolatorpainsauxraisins.For1.1kgofpastry/Preparationtime:45minutesRestingtimeinthefridge:overnightforthedough(12
hours)+1hour
INGREDIENTS
15gfreshyeast
275mlsemi-skimmedorfullfatmilk,atroomtemperature
500gwhitebreadflour
7.5gsalt
75gcastersugar
250gcoldbutter
USINGANELECTRICMIXERFITTEDWITHADOUGHHOOK
Thecroissantdoughcanalsobedonebyhandfollowingthepuff-pastrydoughmethodonpage12
Makethedough(Thisstepshouldbedonethedaybefore)
1.Dissolvethefreshyeastinthemilk.
2.Puttheflour,saltandcastersugarintothemixingbowl.
3.Turn themixer on at a slow speed, then slowlypour in themilkmixture.Mix for 5minutesuntilthedoughstartstocomeunstuckfromthebowl.
4.Remove thedough from themixingbowl andplace it in a lightlyoiledbowl.Coverwithclingfilmandleavetorestovernightinthefridge.
Preparethebutter(Thisstepshouldalsobedonethedaybefore)
5.Layout2piecesofclingfilm(40×60cm)ontopofeachotherontheworksurface.Iuse2piecesoffilmbecauseoneissimplynotenoughandyourisktearingtheclingfilm.Putthebutterinthemiddle.
6.Foldovertheclingfilm,leavingagapbetweenthebutterandtheedgeoftheclingfilmtoallowthebuttertospread.Usearollingpintomakeasquare1cmthick.
7.Storeflatinthefridgefor30minutes.
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Foldingthedough(4folds)
8.The followingday, remove thebutter from the fridgeand leave it towarmup for15minutes.
9.Turnoverthedoughonalightlyflouredworksurfaceandremovethefermentationgas,pressing on the dough with the palms of your hands without kneading (kneading thedoughwillgiveitsomeelasticityandmakeithardertoroll).
10. Shape the dough into a square and roll out the 4 corners, leaving the middleuntouched.
11.Flattenthemiddleofthedoughwithyourhandsorusingtherollingpin,andplacethebutterinthecentre.
12.Wrapthebutterupbycoveringitwiththe4sidesofthedough.
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Thefirst2folds(Seediagram2forthepuffpastry,page13)
13. On a floured work surface, roll out the dough into a long rectangle (40 × 60cm).Removetheexcessflourwithabrushorthepalmofyourhand.
14.Foldthebottomsectionofthedoughontothemiddlesection.
15.Thenfoldthetopthirdoverthetopandpressdowntheedges.
16.Makea90°counter-clockwiserotationofthedough.You’vejustmadethefirstfold.
17.Repeatsteps13to16tomakethesecondfold.
18.Markthetop-rightcornerwithtwofingerprints.Itwillhelpyourememberhowmanyfoldsyouhavemade.Wrapthedoughinclingfilmtopreventitdryingoutandputitinthefridgefor30minutes.
The3rdand4thfolds
19.Remove the pastry from the fridge and place it on a flouredwork surfacewith theopeningonyourright-handside.Thiswillensurethatyoudonotundothefoldyoumadeearlier.Repeatsteps13to17tomake2morefolds.
20.Markthetoprightcornerwith4fingerprintsandwrapthedoughinclingfilm.Putitinthefridgefor30minutesbeforeuse.
GOODTOKNOW
Therestingtimeovernightinthefridgeallowsthedoughtoprove(rise)anddevelopmoreflavour. The yeast will notmake the dough rise right away, especially if placed in thefridge:itneedsatleast1or2hoursatroomtemperatureorovernightinthefridgeforthedough todoubleup in size.Theyeast feeds itselfon sugarspresent in the starchof theflour.Asaresult,itconvertsthesugarsintocarbondioxideandethanol,whichmakesthedoughrise.Thatalcoholicfermentationchangesthetasteofthedoughandwillbringmoreflavourstothefinalproduct.
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Briochedough
LAPÂTEÀBRIOCHE
Thebriochedoughisarisingdough.Itislightandslightlysweet.Itcanbeshapedintomanydifferentformsandholdallsortsofflavours(pinkpraline,chocolateormixedpeel).
Makes600gofdough/Preparationtime:20minutes/Provingtime:2–3hoursinawarmplaceorovernightinfridge/Restingtime:1½hoursinthefridge(ifprovedinawarmplacefirst)
INGREDIENTS
10gfreshyeast
25mlsemi-skimmedorfullfatmilk,atroomtemperature
250gwhitebreadflour(T55)
5gsalt
12gcastersugar
3smalleggs,atroomtemperature(150g)
125gsoftbutter
USINGANELECTRICMIXERFITTEDWITHADOUGHHOOK
The step-by-step photos are for a double recipe, the paddle is more appropriate for asinglerecipe
1.Dissolvethefreshyeastinthemilk.
2.Puttheflour,salt,castersugarandeggsintothebowlofthemixer.
3.Addthemilkandyeast,andworkthemixfor10minutesatslowspeed.
4. Incorporate the soft butter andwork the dough until it has an even consistency andcomesunstuckfromthesurfaceofthebowl.
5.With kitchenpaper, grease a large bowlwith little oil (olive or vegetable). Place thedoughinthemiddleandcoverthebowlwithawetclothorclingfilm,thencontinuewitheithermethod1or2below.
6.Method1–Thebriochedoughcanbemadethedaybeforeuse.
Aftercoveringit,placeitinthefridgeandleavetoproveslowlyovernight.Thefollowingday, turnover thedoughonaflouredworksurfaceandremovethefermentationgasbypressingonthedoughwiththepalmsofyourhands(withoutkneading).Thedoughisnowreadytouse.
Method 2 – Prove the dough in awarm place (20–25°C) until it doubles in size (2–3hours depending of the temperature of the ingredients and the room). Remove the
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fermentationgasbyfoldingitonaflouredworksurface.Putthedoughbackinthebowl,coverandputinthefridgeforaminimumof1½hoursbeforeuse.
THEBRIOCHEMIXISQUITEWETANDSTICKYBUTCANBEMADEBYHAND
Dissolvethefreshyeastinthemilk.Onaworksurface,sifttheflour,saltandsugar.Makea well and put the eggs then the milk and fresh yeast mix into its centre. With yourfingertips,mixtheliquidstogether,thengraduallyincorporatetheflourstartingfromthemiddleofthewell.Gatherthemixturetogetherandworkitwithbothhandsbystretchingitupanddownontheworksurfacetogiveitsomeelasticity.Finally,spreadoutthedoughontheworksurfaceusingyourfingertips(20×30cm)anddistributethedicedsoftbutter.Incorporateitbyfoldingthedoughoverthebutterandpushingitdown.Repeatthisactionseveraltimesuntilthereisanevenconsistency.Then,followsteps5and6.
GOODTOKNOW
Fresh yeast is fragile; if it makes direct contact with the salt or sugar it will die andbecomeinactive.Whenaddedtothedoughmixture,theyeastmustbecombinedstraightaway.Paradoxically,sugarcombinedwith liquid(milkorwater)canbeused toactivatetheyeastifonlyleftincontactforashortperiodoftime.
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Savarindough
LAPÂTEÀSAVARIN
Thesavarindoughiswetandsticky.It’susedinthemakingofbabasandsavarins.Afterbakingtheyarelightanddry,andarethensoakedinasyrupusuallyflavouredwithaspirit
suchasrumorkirsch.Makes1large(18cm)or16individualsavarins(7cm)(500gofdough)/Preparationtime:20minutes/Provingtime:1hour/Bakingtime:Foralargesavarin,30–40minutesat180°C/350°F/GasMark4/For
individualsavarins,10–12minutesat200°C/400°F/GasMark6
INGREDIENTS
10gfreshyeast
50mlsemi-skimmedorfullfatmilk,atroomtemperature
225gwhitebreadflour
5gsalt
20gcastersugar
2½mediumeggs
50gsoftbutter
WITHANELECTRICMIXERFITTEDWITHADOUGHHOOK
The step-by-step photos are for a double recipe, the paddle is more appropriate for asinglerecipe.
1.Dissolvethefreshyeastinthemilk
2.Put theflour,salt, sugarandeggs into themixingbowl.Add themilkandyeast,andworkthemixfor10minutesatslowspeed.
3.Addthesoftbutterandcontinuetoworkthedoughforacoupleofminutesatthesamespeed,untilitcomesunstuckfromthesurfaceofthebowl.
4.Greasethesavarinmould(s)withbutterandflour.Removetheexcessflourbyknockingthemould(s)ontheworksurface.
5.Fillthemould(s)withdoughtoone-thirdusingateaspoon,tablespoonorapipingbagfittedwithamedium-sizednozzle.
6.Leave torise inawarmplace(25–35°C)forabout1houruntil thedoughdoubles insize.
7. Bake the savarin(s), checking on them while cooking, until they are evenly goldenbrown.Turnoutandcoolonawireracktoavoidcondensation.
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THEDIFFERENCEBETWEENBABASANDSAVARINS
Babasandsavarinsaremadefromthesamedoughandbotharesoakedinasyrup.Babascancontainraisins,buton thewhole it’s theirdifferentshapes thatdeterminewhat theyare called. Savarins are a crown shape and are generally served with fruits, crèmepâtissière or Chantilly cream. Babas are cooked in individual cylinders and normallyservedwithwhippedcream.
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Génoisesponge
LAPÂTEÀGÉNOISE
Extremelylightandbutter-free,thegénoisespongeisusedtomakedifferentkindsofcakesorgateaus.Butitcansimplybeenjoyedonitsown,withahomemadecrème
anglaiseandastrawberrysalad.Makes500g/Preparationtime:20minutesBakingtime:25–30minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3
INGREDIENTS
4mediumeggs
125gcastersugar
seedsof1vanillapod(optional)
125gplainflour,sifted
BYHANDWITHAWHISKORWITHANELECTRICMIXERFITTEDWITHAWHISKATTACHMENT
1.Greasea20cmcaketinwithbutteranddustwithflour.Turnitoverandknockitontheworksurfacetoremoveexcessflour.
2.Inalargebowl,whisktheeggswiththecastersugar(andthevanillaseedsifused)for1–2minutesuntilthemixturestartstowhiten.
3. Put the bowl over a bain-marie (see box) and whisk vigorously by hand withoutstopping until the mix reaches 40–45°C (the temperature of a hot bath). Use athermometeroryourfingertiptocheck.
4.Removethebowlfromthebain-marieandpourthewarmeggandcaster-sugarmixtureinto the bowl of an electricmixer, if using.Make a sabayon bywhisking atmaximumspeed for 10–15minutes, until themix cools down and thickens.This step can also bedonebyhand.
5.Byhandwithaspatula,combine the flourwith thesabayon in4or5additions.Thiswillhelptoavoidlumpswithoutoverworkingthesponge.
6.Fillthemouldwiththemixtureandbakethegénoisestraightaway.Turnoutandcoolonawireracktoavoidcondensation.
Howtomakeabain-marieOnthehob:Filla largesaucepanwith3cmofwater.Bringitup to80°C; thewatershouldbesimmering,notboiling.Placeaheatproofbowlontopofthesaucepanwithouttouchingthewaterbeneath.Abain-marielikethisisusedtoslowlymeltchocolateortowarmupaneggmix.
In theoven: Baking in a bain-marie is a technique used for cooking a crème brûlée, acrème caramel or eggwhites inside a tray (5cmdepth) filledwithboilingwater (2cm).
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The temperature of the oven can vary between 110°C/225°F/GasMark ¼ for a crèmebrûlée to 180°C/350°F/Gas Mark 4 for the floating islands’ egg whites. With thistechnique, you can bake a crème brûlée, crème caramel or poach an eggwhite slowly.However, thebakingmustbecontrolledas it ispossible toovercook thecreamsoreggwhites.
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Crèmeanglaise
CrèmeanglaiseistheFrenchversionofanEnglishcustard.Itcanbeservedcoldorwarmwithapudding,acakeorafruitsalad;itcanalsobechurnedtomakeanicecreamorused
tomakedessertslikefloatingislandsorbavaroiscreams.Serves:8–10(400gofcream)/Preparationtime:15minutes/Cookingtime:5minutesCoolingtime:30
minutes
INGREDIENTS
4eggyolks
55gcastersugar
125mlfullfatorsemi-skimmedmilk
175mlfreshdoublecream
1vanillapod(openedandscraped)or1teaspoonofvanillaextract
BYHANDWITHAWHISKORWITHANELECTRICMIXERFITTEDWITHAWHISKATTACHMENT
1.Puttheeggyolksandcastersugarintoalargebowlandwhiskfor3minutes.
2. In a saucepan, bring to the boil the milk, double cream and vanilla pod and seeds,stirringoccasionally.
3.Whilewhisking,pourhalftheboilingliquidontopoftheeggmix,startingwithasmallquantitytostoptheyolkfromcoagulating.
4.Transferthemixturebacktothepanwhilestirring.
5.Cookthecrèmeanglaiseoveramediumheatto85°C.Stirwithaspatulabymakingafigureof8shape;thewhitefoamwilldisappear.Ifyoudon’thaveathermometeryouwillknowitisreadywhenthecreamisthickenoughtoleaveafingermarkonthespatula.
6.Pourthecreamintoabowlthroughaveryfinesieve.
7.Stop itcookingbyplacing thebowlofcrèmeanglaise intoanother largerbowl filledwith icedwater, and stir for30 seconds.Cool at room temperature for30minutes thencoverwithclingfilmandkeepinthefridge.
GOODTOKNOW
Once the egg yolks and sugar are both in a bowl, mix together right away. This willpreventtheyolksfromcoagulatingandforminglumps.
If thecreamreachesa temperaturehigher than85°C, itmight start tocurdle. If thishappens, the crème anglaise can be brought back together bywhisking it energeticallyoverabowlfilledwithicedwater.
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Crèmepâtissière
ThecrèmepâtissièreisathickcustardusedinFrenchpâtisserietofilltarts,cakesandpastries.Itcanbeplainorbeflavouredwithvanilla,coffee,chocolate,GrandMarnieror
praline,forexample.Makes450gofcream/Preparationtime:15minutes/Cookingtime:5minutesRestingtimeinthe
fridge:2hours
INGREDIENTS
4eggyolks
50gcastersugar
25gplainflour
350mlfullfatorsemi-skimmedmilk
1vanillapod(openedandscraped)or1teaspoonofvanillaextract
BYHANDWITHAWHISKORWITHANELECTRICMIXERFITTEDWITHAWHISKATTACHMENT
1.Puttheeggyolksandsugarintoalargebowlandwhiskfor3minutes.Addtheflourandwhisktocombine.
2. In a saucepan, bring to the boil the milk with the vanilla pod and seeds, stirringoccasionally.
3.Removethepanfromtheheat,pourtheeggmixtureontopoftheboilingliquidandstirwithahandwhisk.
4.Putthemixtureontheheatandbringtotheboilatmediumheat.Whiskinginafigureof8shape,cookthecrèmepâtissièrefor1minuteatthesametemperatureonceitstartstoboil,tocookofftheflour.
5.Pourthecreamintoalargebowlthroughaveryfinesieve(usealargebowlbecausethecrèmeneedstocooldownquickly).
6.Putalayerofclingfilmoverthetop,indirectcontactwiththesurfaceofthecreamtopreventtheformationofacrust.Coolinthefridgeforaminimumof2hoursbeforeuse.
GOODTOKNOW
Usethecrèmepâtissièrewithin2days,asafterthisitwillstarttoloseitsflavour.
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Almondcream
LACRÈMED’AMANDE
Thisalmondcreamisusedtofilltartsorpuffcakesandmustbebakedtogetherwiththepastry.Followingthesamemethod,thecreamcanbemadewithdifferentsortsofnut
powderssuchaspistachioorhazelnut.Makes420gofcream/Preparationtime:10minutes
INGREDIENTS
90ggroundalmonds
25gplainflour
110gsoftbutter,diced
110gcastersugar
seedsof1vanillapodor1teaspoonofvanillaoralmondextract
2mediumeggs
BYHANDWITHASPATULAORWITHANELECTRICMIXERFITTEDWITHAPADDLE
1.Sifttogetherthegroundalmondsandplainflour.
2. In a mixing bowl, beat together the butter, sugar and vanilla seeds or extract untilcreamy.
3.Addthegroundalmondsandflourtothebuttermixtureandstirtocombine.
4.Scrapetheinsideofthebowlwithaspatulatobringthemixbacktogetherinthecentre.
5.Add1egg,thensmooththemixtureagainstthesideofthebowltoavoidlumps.Addthesecondeggandcombinewell.
GOODTOKNOW
Thealmondcreamwillbeeasiertospreadifusedstraightaway.Itcanalsobekeptinthefridgebutshouldberemoved30minutesbeforeuse.
Thevanillapods,whenonlytheseedshavebeenusedlikeinthealmondcreamorthegénoisesponge,canbekeptandreused.Forexample,makeavanillasugarbyplacingthevanilla pods in a jarwith some caster or granulated sugar.You could also use them toflavourasyrup,afruitcompoteoracream.
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Buttercream
LACRÈMEAUBEURRE
Frenchbuttercreamismadewithacookedsugarwhichmakesitsmooth,lightandverycreamy.Itisusedtofillcakesandpastries,andcanbeflavouredwithvanilla,chocolate,
spiritsornutpaste.Makes550gofcream/Preparationtime:35minutes/Cookingtime:5minutesYouwillneed:asugar
thermometerorprobe
INGREDIENTS
250gsoftbutter
1mediumegg
4mediumeggyolks
65gcoldwater
200gcastersugar
2vanillapods,openedandscraped(optional,accordingtoeachrecipe)
WITHANELECTRICMIXERFITTEDWITHAWHISK
Thisrecipecanalsobedonebyhandfollowingthesamemethod.
1.With an electricmixer set atmedium speed,work the butter until it is very soft andcreamy. Alternatively, leave it out at room temperature 4 hours before making thebuttercream.
2.Inamixingbowl,beattheeggandyolksfor1minute.
3.Heatthewaterandsugarinasaucepanuntil120°C.Atthistemperaturethesyrupmustneverbetouchedwithbarehandsandmustbehandledwithgreatcare.
4.Setthemixeratslowspeedandpourtheheatedsugarontotheeggswithouttouchingthewhisk.Donotpourittooslowlyoritwillcooldownandformsugarlumps.Turnthespeed up and keep whisking until the mixture cools down. This step will take 15–20minutes.
5.Flavourthecreamwiththevanillaseeds,ifusing.
6.When themix has cooled, turn down the speed to low and add the very soft butterslowlytothemix,in3or4batches.
7. Finally, turn the speed back up to high for 30 seconds to make sure that all theingredientsaremixedwelltogether.
GOODTOKNOW
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With this type of cream, there is always the risk of the mixture curdling. If this doeshappen,youcansave thecreambywhisking it ataveryhighspeed. If itdoesn’tcomebacktogether,placethebuttercreaminthefridgefor15minutesifit’stoowarm,orwarmupthebowlwithablowtorchoroverabain-marie(seepage24)forafewsecondsifit’stoocold,beforewhiskingagain.Asalastresort,someextrasoftbuttercanbeadded.
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Chantillycream
LACRÈMECHANTILLY
Thisisareallyeasyandquickcreamtomakeatthelastminute.Itcanbeservedwithafruitsaladoricecream,orusedtodecorateacake.Itcanalsobepouredonthetopofa
cupofcoffeeorhotchocolate.Makes300gofcream/Preparationtime:5minutes
INGREDIENTS
280mlfreshdoublecream
20gcastersugar
BYHANDWITHAWHISKORWITHANELECTRICMIXERFITTEDWITHAWHISKATTACHMENT
1.Putthedoublecreaminthefridgefor2hours; itneedstobeatatemperatureof4°C(coldfromthefridge)inorderforittoriseproperly.
2.Inalargebowl,whiskthecreamathighspeedintheelectricmixer,orvigorouslybyhand,toincorporatesomeair.
3.Whenthecreamstartstorise,sprinklethecastersugaronthetop.
4.Keepworking the creamuntil it firms and forms a peak.Note that a softlywhippedcream is called a whipped cream (photo 4a opposite); a firmly whipped cream is aChantilly(photo4b).
GOODTOKNOW
TheChantillycreamcanbekeptinthefridgeforafewhoursbeforeitstartstocollapse.Afterthis,itmightneedtobewhippedasecondtimebeforeuse.
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Frenchmeringue
LAMERINGUEFRANÇAISE
AFrenchmeringueismadeofuncookedcastersugarandeggwhites.It’susedinthemakingofcakes,creamsormacaroons.Thequantityofsugarcanvaryaccordingtoeach
recipe.Makes320gofmeringue/Preparationtime:10minutes
INGREDIENTS
3eggwhites(120g)
200gcastersugar
BYHANDWITHAWHISKORWITHANELECTRICMIXERFITTEDWITHAWHISKATTACHMENT
1.Whisktheeggwhitesatmediumspeeduntiltheystarttorise.
2.Graduallyaddthecastersugar,in2or3batches.
3.Whisk themeringueuntil it firms and formsapeakwhenyou lift up thewhisk (seepage37).
GOODTOKNOW
Eggwhitescanbekeptforafewdaysinthefridge.Irecommendyouuseatleast3-day-old egg whites (if you have them) when making a French meringue such as for amacaroonmix(seepages226–232).Thewhippedeggwhiteswillhavemorevolumeandthefinalmixwillbelighter.
However,thisdoesn’tapplytoanuncookedmixmadefromFrenchmeringueliketheSaint-Honorécream(seepage130).Inthiscase,theeggwhitesmustbefreshandthemixshouldnotbekeptinthefridgeformorethanhalfaday.
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Italianmeringue
LAMERINGUEITALIENNE
AnItalianmeringueismadeofcookedsugarpouredontopofwhippedeggwhites.Thecookedsugarwillpartiallycooktheeggwhites,andmakesitlessfragilethanaFrench
meringue.Makes320gmeringue/Preparationtime:15minutes/Cookingtime:5minutesYouwillalsoneed:A
sugarthermometerorprobeisnecessaryforthisrecipe
INGREDIENTS
170gcastersugar
85mlwater
3eggwhites(120g)
BYHANDWITHAWHISKORWITHANELECTRICMIXERFITTEDWITHAWHISK
1.Inasaucepan,heatthecastersugarandwaterto120°C.Checkthetemperaturewithasugarthermometeroraprobe.Atthistemperaturethesyrupmustneverbetouchedwithbarehandsandmustbehandledwithgreatcare.
2.Whisktheeggwhitesatmediumspeeduntilsoftpeaksform(seebox).Setthemixerataslowspeedandpourthecookedsugarontotheeggswithouttouchingthewhisk.Donotpourittooslowlyoritwillcooldownandformsugarlumpsinthemix.
3.Whisk the meringue for a fewminutes until it starts to cool and form a peak. Usestraightaway.
GOODTOKNOW
Whiskingeggwhites,eitherwhenmakingacakeorameringue,mustalwaysbedoneatmediumspeed:theairbubblesinsidethewhippedeggwhiteswillbemoreevenandlessfragilewhenyoucombinethemwithotheringredients.
ThestagesofbeateneggwhitesNopeaks:Theeggwhitesarefoamybutnotbeatenenoughtoholdontothewhisk.
Softpeak:Thepeaksare just starting toholdwhenyou turn thewhiskupsidedown,but theywillmeltbackdownafterafewseconds.
Peakorfirmpeak:Thebeateneggwhitesholdfirmlyonawhiskturnedupsidedownandthetipofthepeakfallsbackdown.
Stiffpeak:Thetipofthepeakstandsstraightuponawhiskturnedupsidedown.
Overbeaten:Theeggwhiteswillbecomegrainyandcollapsebackonthemselves.Theycanbeusedbutitwillshow:themixwillstaygrainyanditwillnotriseverywell.
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CHAPTER1
Sweetshortcrustpastry
LAPÂTEBRISÉESUCRÉE
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Howtolineatarttin
(ortartlettins)
1.Sprinklesomeflourontheworksurfaceandthepastry.
2.Rolloutthepastrytoathicknessof3mm.Keepmovingittostopitstickingtotheworksurface,addingalittlemoreflourifnecessary.
3.Putthetarttinoverthepastryandtrimtheexcesswithaknife.(Fortartlettins,useasmallplateorabowlturnedupsidedown,slightlywiderthanthetin,andcutthepastryallthewayarounditwithaknife.)
4. Check the thickness and the regularity of the pastry/pastries, and roll it out again ifnecessary.
5.Removetheexcessflouronthetopwithabrushorwithyourfingertips.Foldthepastryover the rollingpinandunroll it upsidedownon topof the tart tin. (For the tartlet tin,brushtheflouroffonbothsidesofthepastrybasesandplacethemoverthetartlettins.)
6.Lowerthepastryintothetin,thengentlypressitintotheedgeswithyourfingertipstolinethebaseandsides.
7.Gather together the leftover pastry to form a small ball, coat itwith flour and pressalongthesideofthetartcasetosecureitsposition.(Proceedthesamewaywiththetartletbases.)
8.Removetheexcesspastrywithaknifeorarollingpin.
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Appleandcinnamontart
TARTEAUXPOMMESETÀLACANNELLE
Thereissomethingtimelessaboutappleandcinnamon,Ijustloveit.Thistartissimpleanddelicious;it’stheperfectSundaylunchdessertforallthefamily.
Serves10(28cmtart)/Preparationtime:1hourBakingtime:1–1hour10at180°C/350°F/GasMark4/Youwillneeda28cmtarttin
INGREDIENTS
500gsweetshortcrustpastry(seepage6)
Fortheapplecompote
3mediumBramleyapples
20gbutter
100–120gcastersugar,totaste
50mlwater
1cinnamonstickor½teaspoongroundcinnamon
Fortheappletopping
6–8Cox(orBraeburn)apples
½lemon
Fortheglaze
20gbutter
40gclearhoney
1pinchofgroundcinnamon
1.Makethesweetshortcrustpastryandrestinthefridgefor1hour.
2.Meanwhile,peel,coreanddicetheBramleyapples.Inapansetoveralowheat,makeacompote with the diced apples, butter, sugar, water and cinnamon stick or groundcinnamon.Bringtotheboilandstirregularly.Simmerfor15minutesuntilthefruitsarecooked.Coolatroomtemperature.
3.Peel,cutinhalfandcoretheCoxorBraeburnapples.Puttheminabowl,squeezeoverafewdropsoflemonjuiceandmixbyhand.
4.Rollouttheshortcrustpastryto4mmthickandlinethetarttin(seepage42).Spreadthecoldcompoteover thebase,cut theapplehalvesinto2mmslicesandusetogarnishthe
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tartincircles.
5.Bakethetartfor40–45minutes,thencoveritwithfoiltoprotectthefruitsandcontinuebakingforanother20–25minutes.Removethefoilandcoolthetartinthetin.
6. Inasmall saucepansetovera lowheat,warmup thebutter,clearhoneyandgroundcinnamon.Glazethetartwiththewarmmixtureusingapastrybrush.
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Mymother’srhubarbtart
TARTEÀLARHUBARBEDEMAMAN
Mymother’srhubarbtartisauniqueadventurefortherhubarblover.Attention,dangerofaddiction!
Serves10(28cmtart)/Preparationtime:30+20minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:1hourBakingtime:1–1hour10at180°C/350°F/GasMark4/Youwillneeda28cmtarttin
INGREDIENTS
500gsweetshortcrustpastry(seepage6)
5gbakingpowder
Forthefilling
700grhubarb
260gcastersugar
20mlmilk
1.Maketheshortcrustpastryfollowingthemethodonpage6,mixingthebakingpowderwiththeflour.Restinthefridgefor1hour.
2.Wash,peelandcuttherhubarbintostripstheninto2cmbatons.
3.Rolloutthepastrytoathicknessof4mmandusetolinethetarttin(seepage42).
4. Cover the bottom of the pastry basewith 120g of the caster sugar, add the rhubarbbatonsandsprinkleanother100gofcastersugarontop.
5.Gathertheleftoverpastryintoaballandrollitoutto3mm.Brushwithathinlayerofmilk,sprinkleoveralittlemoresugar(40g)andcutoutsomestripstodecoratethetartinalatticepattern.
6.Bakethetartfor40–45minutes,thencoverwithfoiltoprotectthefruitsandcontinuebakingforanother20–25minutes.Removethefoilandcoolthetartinthetin.
CHEF’STOPTIP
Thisrecipecanalsobemadewithhalftheamountofrhubarbmixedwith2dicedBramleyapples.
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Greengagetart
TARTEAUXREINES-CLAUDES
Thisrecipecanbemadewithallkindsofplums(mirabelle,purple,red,Victoria)orstonefruits(apricots,peaches,cherries).Thequantityofsugarneededwillvaryaccordingtothe
acidityofthefruits.Themoreacidthefruithasthemoresugaryourtartwillneed.Serves10(28cmtart)/Preparationtime:30+10minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:1hourBaking
time:1–1hour10at180°C/350°F/GasMark4/Youwillneeda28cmtarttin
INGREDIENTS
500gsweetshortcrustpastry(seepage6)
5gbakingpowder
Forthefilling
700ggreengages
90gcastersugar,totaste
1eggyolk
1.Maketheshortcrustpastryfollowingthemethodonpage6,mixingthebakingpowderwiththeflour.Restinthefridgefor1hour.
2.Wash,cutinhalfandstonethegreengages.
3.Rolloutthepastryto4mmandusetolinethetarttin(seepage42).
4.Sprinkle60gofthecastersugarontothepastry,fillthetartwiththehalvedgreengages(cutsideup).Brushwithathinlayerofeggyolkandsprinkleanother30gofcastersugaroverthetop.
5.Bakethetartfor40–45minutes,thencoveritupwithfoiltoprotectthefruitsandfinishoffthebakingforanother20–25minutes.Removethefoilandcoolthetartinthetin.
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Howtoblindbakeapastrybase
1.Linethetarttinwithpastry(seepage51)andrestinthefridgefor30minutes(orplaceitinthefreezerfor10minutes).Brushtheflouroffthepastrybaseusingyourfingertipsorabrush.
2.Coverthepastrybasewithbakingpaperorafewlayersofheat-resistantclingfilmandplaceitgentlyinsidethelinedtarttin.
3.Fillthetartcasewithbakingbeansorrice/driedbeans(I’vebeenusingthesameshortgrain rice for years). Blind bake for 35–45 minutes at 160°C/325°F/GasMark 3. Thethicknessofthepastrywilldeterminethebakingtime.
4.Allow10minutestocool,thenremovethebakingbeansusingalargespoon.Removethebakingpaperorclingfilm.
5.Putthetartcasebackintheovenforanextra5–10minuteswithoutthebakingbeanstoevenupthecolour.Thecentreofthepastrymustbealightgoldenbrown.
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Alsatianappletart
TARTEALSACIENNEAUXPOMMES
AnAlsatiantartiscomposedofacustardfillingandfruits.AnykindofapplescanbeusedforanAlsatianappletart.Otherfruitssuchaspears,prunes,mirabellesorgreengagescan
alsobeused.Serves10(24cmhigh-sidedtart)/Preparationtime:30+20minutesRestingtimeinthefridge:1hour+30minutesBakingtime:35–45+5–10+4minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3forthepastrybase,30–40
minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3withthefilling/Youwillneeda24cmhigh-sidedtarttin
INGREDIENTS
500gsweetshortcrustpastry(seepage6)
1beatenegg
Forthecustardfilling
1eggyolk
2mediumeggs
50gcastersugar
1vanillapod(openedandscraped)or1teaspoonvanillaextract
200mlmilk
100mlfreshdoublecream
5Cox(orBraeburn)apples(900g)
1.Makethesweetshortcrustpastryfollowingthemethodonpage6andrestinthefridgefor1hour.
2.Linethetarttinwiththepastry(seepage42)andputitinthefridgefor30minutes.
3.Blindbakethepastrybase(seepage50)andleavetocool.
4. Carefully brush the pastry base with the beaten egg. Put it back in the oven for 4minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3,removeandbrushitasecondtime.
5.Tomake the filling,whisk together theeggyolk,eggs,caster sugarandvanilla, thenaddthemilkandcream.Passthemixthroughaveryfinesieve.
6.Peel,cutinhalfandcoretheCoxorBraeburnapples.Cuteachhalfinto3or4piecesaccordingtotheirsize.Laythemonthepastrybaseandpouroverthecustardtocover⅔ofthefruit.
7.Bakethetartuntilthecustardissetandgoldenbrownontop.Coolatroomtemperature
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inthetin.
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Parisianflantart
FLANPARISIEN
ThisisaclassicdessertthatyoucanfindinmostpâtisserieshopsinFrance.A‘flan’canbestbedescribeasasetcustard.Flanpowderistraditionallyusedbypastrychefsand
bakersbutit’squitehardtofindinregularshops.I’vereplaceditwithcornflourhereforaverysimilarresult.
Serves10(28cmtart)/Preparationtime:30+15minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:1hour+30minutes/Bakingtime:35–45+5–10+4minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3forthepastrybase,30–40
minutesat140°C/275°F/GasMark1withthefilling/Youwillneeda28cmtarttin
INGREDIENTS
500gsweetshortcrustpastry(seepage6)
1beatenegg
Forthecustardfilling
560mlfullfatorsemi-skimmedmilk
1vanillapod(openedandscraped)or1teaspoonofvanillaextract
4mediumeggs
75gcastersugar
30gcornflour
1.Makethesweetshortcrustpastryfolowingthemethodonpage6,andrestinthefridgefor1hour.
2.Linethetarttin(seepage42)withthepastryandputitinthefridgefor30minutes.
3.Bakeblindthepastrybase(seepage50)andleavetocool.
4. Carefully brush the pastry base with the beaten egg. Put it back in the oven for 4minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3,removeandbrushitasecondtime.
5.Tomakethecustardfilling,bringthemilkandvanillatotheboil.Inalargebowl,whisktogethertheeggsandsugar,thenaddthecornflourandpourintheboilingmilk.Passthemixturethroughaveryfinesieve.
6.Placethepastrybaseintheovenandfilltothetopwiththecustardmixusingajugoraladle.Baketheflanuntilitissetandgoldenbrownontop.Coolitatroomtemperatureinthetin.
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Blueberryandlemontart
TARTEAUXMYRTILLESCITRONNÉES
BlueberriesarecommonberriesintheareainFrancewhereIcomefrom.Iusedtopickthemwithmysisterswhenwewerelittle,andmymotherwouldmakeallsortsof
deliciousjams,compotesandtartsfromthem.Myblueberryandlemontartwasinspiredbythesememories.
Serves10(28cmtart)/Preparationtime:30+15minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:1hourBakingtime:1hourat180°C/350°F/GasMark4withthefruitfilling,10minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3withthe
lemoncream/Youwillneeda28cmtarttin
INGREDIENTS
500gsweetshortcrustpastry(seepage6)
5gbakingpowder
Forthefruitfilling
5punnetsofblueberries(125geach)
120gcastersugar,totaste
Forthelemoncream
1mediumegg,separated
25gcastersugar
zestandjuiceof½lemon
1.Maketheshortcrustpastryfollowingthemethodonpage6,mixingthebakingpowderwiththeflour.Restinthefridgefor1hour.
2.Linethetarttinwiththepastry(seepage42).
3. Sprinkle 80g caster sugar over the pastry base and cover itwith the blueberries andanother40gcastersugar.
4.Bakethetartfor40–45minutesat180°C/350°F/GasMark4,thencoveritupwithfoiltoprotectthefruitsandcontinuetobakeforanother15–20minutes.Removethetartfromtheovenanduncoverit,thenturntheheatdownto160°C/325°F/GasMark3.
5.Tomakethelemoncream,whisktheeggwhitetoapeak(seepage38)usinganelectricmixer.Inabowl,whisktheeggyolkwiththecastersugarfor2minutesuntilitwhitens.Foldintheeggwhiteandaddthezestandlemonjuice.
6.Spreadoutthelemoncreamontopoftheblueberrytartandputthetartbackintheovenfor10minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3.Coolinthetin.
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CHEF’STOPTIP
ServewithplainGreekyoghurt,Greekyoghurticecreamoraspoonfulofcrèmefraîche.
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CHAPTER2
Sweetpastry
LAPÂTESUCRÉE
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Caramelizedlemontart
TARTECARAMÉLISÉEAUCITRON
ThisrecipecomesfromNicoLadenis’restaurantChezNico,andwasbroughttoHistoricSussexHotelsbyMartinHaddenwhenhebecameexecutivechef.Overtheyears,ithasbecomethehousedessertatOckendenManor,whichheadchefStephenCraneandmyself
areproudtohaveonthemenu.Serves12(24cmhigh-sidedtart)/Preparationtime:30+20minutesRestingtimeinthefridge:1hour+
30minutes/Restingtimeatroomtemperature:4hoursBakingtime:35–40+5–10minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3forthepastrybase,40minutesto1hourat110°C/225°F/GasMark¼inastatic
oven(fanoff)withthefillingYouwillneeda24cmhigh-sidedtarttin
INGREDIENTS
500gsweetpastry(seepage8)
1beatenegg
Forthelemoncream
9mediumeggs
4largelemons
250gcastersugar
700gfreshdoublecream
40gcastersugartocaramelize
1.Makethesweetpastryfollowingthemethodonpage8,andrestinthefridgefor1hour.
2.Linethetarttinwiththepastry(seepage42)andreturntothefridgefor30minutes.
3.Bakeblindthepastrybase(seepage50)andcool.
4. Carefully brush the pastry base with the beaten egg. Put it back in the oven for 4minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3,thenbrushitasecondtime.Setthebaseaside,turntheoventemperaturedownto110°C/225°F/GasMark¼andswitchoffthefan.
5. For the lemon cream, break the eggs into a large bowl and beat themwith awhisk.Gratethinlythezestof3lemonsandmixwiththejuiceof4lemons.Put200goflemonmix (zest and juice), together with the caster sugar, in a saucepan, and the cream inanother.Bringbothpanstotheboilsimultaneously,stirringoccasionally.Whilewhisking,pourtheboilinglemonmixontopofthebeateneggfollowedbytheboilingcream.Passthelemoncreamthroughaveryfinesieveandskimthesurfacewithaladle.
6.Fillthetartbaseevenlywiththelemoncreamusingasmalljugand/oraladle.Placethetartbaseintheoven(110°C/225°F/GasMark¼,nofan,lowshelf).Cookthelemoncream
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for40minutesto1hour.Startcheckingafter35minutesandthenevery5minutesuntilit’s cooked.The cream should be set like a jelly, gentlymoving in themiddle.Cool atroomtemperatureforaminimumof4hours.
7.Cut the lemon tartwithasharpknife.Warmup thebladeusingablowtorchora jugfilledwith boilingwater. Slice the tart and place on a large tray. Sprinkle some castersugaronthetopofeachslice,removetheexcessusingyourindexfingerandcaramelizethemwithablowtorch.Servewithin15minuteswithblackcurrentsorbet.
CHEF’STOPTIP
Thewhitepartofthelemonpeelisbitter.Gratethesurfaceofthelemonzestcarefullytoremoveonlytheyellowpart.
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Howtomakeadarkchocolatemoussefilling
1.Putthechoppedchocolate(orchocolatepistoles)andthebutterinabowl.
2.Eithermelttheminthemicrowaveatamediumpowerfor1minute,thencheckandstirwith a spatula. Repeat this step every 30 seconds until both aremelted. Ormelt themslowlyinaheatproofbowlsetoverapanofsimmeringwater(abain-marie,seepage24).
3.Leavetocoolfor15minutesatroomtemperature.
4.Meanwhile,makeasabayonbywhiskingtogethertheeggs,eggyolksandcastersugarwithanelectricmixerfor15minutes.Thesabayonwillbe3timesbiggerinvolumeandverylight.Itmustbeusedstraightaway.
5. Pour themelted chocolate andbutter over the sabayon and combine using a spatula,making a circular movement from the bottom upwards with the spatula in one hand,givingaquarterturntothebowlwiththeother.
6.Repeatthisstepuntilthechocolatemousseismixed.Donotoverworkittopreserveitslightness.Usestraightawaytofillthetartortartlets.
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Deliciouslylightchocolatetart
TARTEAUCHOCOLATDÉLICIEUSEMENTLÉGÈRE
ThistartisaclassicdessertofOckendenManor.Itwillmakeallyourthoughtsaboutchocolatedessertsbeingtooheavyflyoutthewindow.Enjoyitatroomtemperatureto
preserveitslightnessand–myadvice–hidetherestofit!Serves12(24cmhigh-sidedtart)/Preparationtime:30+20minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:1hour
+30minutes/Bakingtime:35–45+5–10minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3forthepastrybase.15minutesat120°C/250°F/GasMark1/2withthechocolatemoussefillingCoolingtimeatroomtemperature:
4hours/Youwillneeda24cmhigh-sidedtarttin
INGREDIENTS
500gsweetpastry
(seepage8)
Darkchocolatemoussefilling
340gdarkchocolate(55%),chopped
210gbutter
4mediumeggs
4eggyolks
60gcastersugar
1.Makethesweetpastryfollowingthemethodonpage8,andrestinthefridgefor1hour.
2.Linethetarttinwiththepastry(seepage42)andputitinthefridgefor30minutes.
3.Bakeblindthepastrybasefor35–40minutes(seepage50),thencarefullyremovethebaking beans using a tablespoon and continue baking for about an extra 5–10minutesuntil the pastry is evenly golden brown. Turn the oven temperature down to120°C/250°F/GasMark½.
4.Whilethepastrybaseiscooling,makethechocolatemoussefilling(seepage62).
5.Fillthepastrybasewiththechocolatemousseandbakeitstraightaway.
6.Leave it to cool at room temperature for aminimumof4hoursbefore serving.Thischocolatetartcanbetrickytocutbecausethechocolatemoussefillingtendstosticktotheknife.Warmupthebladeofaserratedknife,usingablowtorchorajugfilledwithboilingwater,andyouwillgetaperfectlycleancut.
GOODTOKNOW
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The percentage of cocoa, in this recipe 55%, represents the quantity of cocoa paste(between80%and90%)andcocoabutterinthechocolate.Theremaining45%ismostlycomposedofsugar.Thevanillaaromaandlecithinrepresentlessthan0.5%.Theuseofa55% dark chocolatewill give the lightness to thismousse. A darker chocolatewill setharderatroomtemperature.
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Apricotandalmondtart
TARTEAMANDINEAUXABRICOTS
It’saritualforme,thateachsummer,whentheapricotsareeverywhereinthemarketsanditstartstogetwarm,Imakethistart.Thereissomethingdeliciousaboutit;almondsand
apricotsaremadeforeachother.Serves10(28cmtart)/Preparationtime:30+30minutesRestingtimeinthefridge:1hour+30minutes/Bakingtime:35–40+5–10minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3forthepastrybase,35–45minutesat
160°C/325°F/GasMark3withthefillingYouwillneeda28cmtarttin
INGREDIENTS
500gsweetpastry(seepage8)
800gripeapricots,halved
630galmondcream(1½×recipepage30)
Fortheapricotjam(optional)
250gripeapricots
80gcastersugar
1.Makethesweetpastryfollowingthemethodonpage8,andrestinthefridgefor1hour.
2. For the apricot jam if using, dice the apricots and put them in a panwith the castersugar.Cookslowlyoveralowheatfor10minutes,stirringregularly.
3.Linethetarttinwiththepastry(seepage42)andputitinthefridgefor30minutes.
4.Blindbakethepastrybase(seepage50).
5.Makethealmondcreamfollowingthemethodonpage30.
5.When the pastry base has cooled, spread over the jam, if using, and coverwith thealmondcream.
6.Arrangetheapricothalvesonthe topof the tartandbakeuntilevenlygoldenbrown.Coolatroomtemperatureinthetin.
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Fig,honeyandalmondtart
TARTEAMANDINEAUMIELETAUXFIGUES
Tome,thisrecipemarksthebeginningofautumn.Thereissomethingcomfortingaboutcookedfigsandhoney.Irecommendyoutoserveitwarm,withyoghurticecreamanda
dashofhoneyontop.Serves10(28cmtart)/Preparationtime:30+30minutesRestingtimeinthefridge:1hour+30minutes/Bakingtime:35–40+5–10minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3forthepastrybase,35–45minutesat
160°C/325°F/GasMark3withthefillingYouwillneeda28cmtarttin
INGREDIENTS
500gsweetpastry(seepage8)
600gripefigs,cutintoquarters
Forthefigcompote(optional)
250gripefigs
50gcastersugar
2tablespoonswater
Forthehoneyandalmondcream
165ggroundalmonds
40gplainflour
165gsoftbutter,diced
90gcastersugar
75grunnyhoney
3mediumeggs
Fortheglaze
20gbutter
40grunnyhoney
1.Makethesweetpastryfollowingthemethodonpage8,andrestinthefridgefor1hour.
2.Tomakethefigcompote,ifusing,cutthefigsintosmallpiecesandputtheminapanwiththecastersugarandthewater.Cookslowlyoveralowheatfor10minutes,stirringregularly.
3.Linethetarttinwiththepastry(seepage42)andputitinthefridgefor30minutes.
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4.Blindbakethepastrybase(seepage50).
5.Makethehoneyandalmondcreamfollowingthemethodonpage30,addingthehoneybeforetheeggs.
6.Whenthepastrybaseiscold,spreadoverthefigcompote,ifusing,andcoveritevenlywiththealmondcream.
7.Arrangethequarteredfigsontopofthetartandbakeituntil thealmondcreamissetandgolden.Coolitatroomtemperatureinthetin.
8. In a small saucepan, warm up the butter and honey. Glaze the cooled tart with themixtureusingapastrybrush.
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Howtopoachpears
1. Ina largesaucepan,makeasyrupbybringing to theboil thewater,caster sugarandvanillapod(openedandscraped).
2.Peel,cutinhalfandcorethepears.Removethestalksandthefibrearoundthecore.Ifthepearsarenottobeusedstraightaway,sprinklethemwiththejuiceofhalfalemon.
3.Cutasheetofbakingpaper2cmwiderthantherimofthesaucepan.
4.Whenthesyrupisboiling,turntheheatdownandputthehalvedpearsinsidethepanoneatatime.
5.Coverthepearswiththebakingpaperandputaplateorsomethingsimilarontopofit(Iused the loosebottomofacake tin).Thiswillstop thepearsfromfloatingandallowthemtocookevenlywithoutbrowning.Thefruitsmustbeimmersedinthesyrupduringcooking.
6.Turn theheatup.Thesyrupmustbesimmeringbutnotboilingand thecooking timedepends on the ripeness of the fruits.After 20minutes, prick the pearswith awoodencocktail stick or a small knife. It must penetrate the fruit easily. Continue to simmer,checkingevery5minutes,untilcooked.
7.Whenthepearsarecooked,removethepanfromtheheatandcoolatroomtemperature.Thefruitsmuststillbeimmersedinthesyrupwhilecoolingdown.
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Pear,chocolateandalmondtart
TARTEAMANDINEAUCHOCOLATETAUXPOIRES
ThisismyFrenchversionofapearBakewelltart.Ialwayslovedthecombinationofpearandchocolate,andwiththealmondsitbecomesjustmagical.
Serves8(24cmtart)/Preparationtime:30+30minutesRestingtimeinthefridge:1hour+30minutes/Bakingtime:35–40+5–10minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3forthepastrybase,35–45minutesat
160°C/325°F/GasMark3withthefillingYouwillneeda12x35cmrectangulartarttinora24cmroundtarttin
INGREDIENTS
Forthepoachedpears
5Williamspears
1litrewater
300gcastersugar
1vanillapod(openedandscraped)
Forthecocoasweetpastry
20gcocoapowder
170gplainflour
1smallpinchofsalt
140gcoldbutter,diced
1mediumegg
55gcastersugar
Forthechocolateandalmondcream
135ggroundalmonds
35gplainflour
85gsoftbutter,diced
165gsugar
3mediumeggs
85gdarkchocolate(70%),chopped
80gbutter
1.Prepareandpoachthepears(seepage70).Thisstepcanbedonethedaybefore.
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2.Siftthecocoapowderwiththeflourandmakethesweetpastryfollowingthemethodonpage8.Restinthefridgefor1hour.
3.Linethetarttinwiththepastry(seepage42)andreturnittothefridgefor30minutes.
4.Blindbakethepastrybase(seepage50).
5.Forthechocolateandalmondcream,makeanalmondcreamfollowingthemethodonpage 30. Melt the chocolate and 80g of butter in the microwave at a medium power,stirringevery30secondsuntilit’smelted,thenincorporateitintothealmondcreamusingaspatula.
6.Whenthepastrybasehascooled,spreadevenlywiththechocolatealmondcream.
7.Garnish the tartwith thepoachedpearhalves andbake it until thechocolate almondcreamissetandcooked.Coolatroomtemperatureinthetin.
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Basquecustardandblackcherrypie
GÂTEAUBASQUE
IdiscoveredthispiewhenIwasateenagerduringafamilysummerholidayintheFrenchBasquecountry.BackhomewhenImadeitwithmymotherforthefirsttime,itwasareal
success!Serves10(24cmpie)/Preparationtime:1hourRestingtimeinthefridge:2+1hours/Bakingtime:
40–50minutesat180°C/350°F/GasMark4Youwillneeda24cmroundcaketin
INGREDIENTS
450gcrèmepâtissière(seepage28)
Forthepastry
150gcastersugar
1mediumegg
1eggyolk
zestof½lemon,thinlygrated
½teaspoonsalt
150gplainflour
200gsoftbutter
Fortheblackcherryjam(oruseasmalljarofblackcherryjam)
250gblackcherries
110gcastersugar
Fortheglaze
1eggyolk
1teaspoonwater
1.Makethecrèmepâtissièrefollowingthemethodandrecipeonpage28.
2.Tomakethepastry,useanelectricmixertowhiskthecastersugar,egg,eggyolk,thinlygratedlemonzestandsaltuntilitwhitens.Switchthewhisktothepaddleattachmentandmixintheflourfollowedbythesoftbutter.Dividethepastryinto2unequalpieces(250gforthetop,330gforthebase),coverinclingfilmandrestinthefridgefor1hour.
3.Tomaketheblackcherryjam;stoneandcutthecherriesintoquarters.Puttheminapanwith thecaster sugar, andcook the jamslowlyovera lowheat forabout10minutes to
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reducethejuice.Coolatroomtemperature.
4.Removethelargerpieceofpastryfromthefridgeandusetolinethetarttin(seepage42)
5. Spread the cherry jam evenly over the pastry, then cover itwith thewhisked crèmepâtissière.
6.Brush the side of the pastry basewithwater.Roll out the second pastry section andcoverthepie.Removetheexcessandsealthelidtothebasebypinchingthepastryedgestogether.
7.With a pastry brush,mix the egg yolkwith thewater and glaze the pie.Mark someridgeswithaforkandmakeaholeinitsmiddlewithaknifetip.
8.Bakethepiefor30minutes.Ifthetopgetstoodark,coveritwithapieceoffoilbeforefinishingoffthebaking.Cooldowninthedish.
CHEF’STOPTIP
Araspberrycompoteorjamalsomakesadeliciousfillinginsteadoftheblackcherryjam.
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Walnuttart
TARTEAUXNOIX
Thisisquiteanunusualtartbutshoulddefinitivelybetasted.Irecommendyoutryitwithcoffeeicecreamorserveitwithcoffee.
Serves8(fora24cmtart)/Preparationtime:30+20minutesRestingtimeinthefridge:1hour+30minutes/Bakingtime:35–40+5–10minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3forthepastrybase,30–40
minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3withthefillingYouwillneeda24cmtarttin
INGREDIENTS
500gsweetpastry(seepage8)
Forthewalnutcream
150gbutter
250gcastersugar
250gbrokenwalnuts
3mediumeggs
1.Makethesweetpastryfollowingthemethodonpage8,andrestinthefridgefor1hour.
2.Linethetarttinwiththepastry(seepage42)andputitinthefridgefor30minutes.
3.Blindbakethepastrybase(seepage50).
4.Makethewalnutcream.Usinganelectricmixerfittedwithapaddle,creamthebutterandsugar,thenalternatelyaddbatchesofthebrokenwalnutsandtheeggs.
5.Whenthepastrybasehascooled,spreadoutthewalnutcreamevenlythenbakethetartuntilthecreamissetandgoldenbrown.Coolatroomtemperatureinthetin.
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CHAPTER3
Sabléepastry
LAPÂTESABLÉE
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Sourcherryandpistachiotartlets
TARTELETTESÀLAPISTACHEETAUXCERISESGRIOTTES
Theacidityofthesourcherrycontrastsmarvellouslywiththesweetnessofthepistachiocream.It’saperfectbalanceofflavour,combinedinacolourfulandprettytartlet.
Makes10/Preparationtime:30+20minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:1hourRestingtimeinthefreezer:15minutes/Bakingtime:10–12minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3forthetartletbases,15–20
minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3withthefillingYouwillneed10×10cmtartletmoulds
INGREDIENTS
500gsabléepastry(seepage10)
Forthepistachiocream
90ggroundpistachios(orwholeandgroundinafoodprocessor)
25gplainflour
110gsoftbutter,diced
110gcastersugar
2mediumeggs
Forthecherryjam(oruseajarofcherryjam)
100gredorblackcherries,stoned
50gcastersugar(or75gforredcherryjam)
Forthecherrytopping
200gstonedredmorellocherries(fresh,frozenorfromajar)
1.Make thesabléepastryfollowing themethodonpage12,andrest in thefridgefor1hour.
2.Linethetartlettinswiththepastry(seepage42),prickseveraltimeswithaforkandputtheminthefreezerfor15minutes.
3.Makethepistachiocreamfollowingthemethodonpage202(samemethodasalmondcream)andkeepitatroomtemperature.
4.Forthecherryjam,putthecherriesinapanwiththecastersugar.Cookslowlyoveralowheatfor10minutes,stirringregularly.
5. Put the tartlet bases on a baking tray. Bake blind straight from the freezer withoutbakingbeans.After8minutesofbaking,turnthetrayintheovenandbakeforanother2–4minutes.Thetartletsmustbeevenlygoldenbrownbutnottoodark.Leavetocool.
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6.When the tartlet bases are cold, add 1 teaspoon of cherry jam to each, coverwith 1tablespoonofpistachiocreamandpush in8–10 stonedmorellocherries.Bakeuntil thepistachiocreamissetandgolden.Removefromthetinsandcoolonawirerack.
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Howtomakeawhitechocolateandvanillamousse
1.Softenthegelatineleavesincoldwaterfor10minutes.
2.Breakthewhitechocolateintosmallpiecesandputitinalargebowl.
3.Drainoffthewaterfromthegelatineleavesandaddthemtothewhitechocolate.
4.Bringtotheboilthefreshdoublecreamwiththevanillapod(openedandscraped),andpouritoverthewhitechocolatethroughafinesieve.
5. Stir with a spatula until the chocolate is melted, then cool for 15 minutes at roomtemperature.
6.Foldinthesoftlywhippedcream.
7.Setinthefridgeforaminimumof4hoursbeforeuse.
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Raspberryandwhitechocolatetart
TARTEAUXFRAMBOISESETAUCHOCOLATBLANCVANILLÉ
IfIhadtopickafavouritetart,thiswouldprobablybeit.Personally,it’stheperfectcombinationofflavoursandtextures:acrispynuttypastry,asweetchocolatecreamthat
contrastswiththeacidityofthefreshraspberries.Justdivine!Serves8(24cmtart)/Preparationtime:30+20minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:4+1hours+15minutes/Restingtimeinthefreezer:15minutes/Bakingtime:15–20minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark
3/Youwillneeda24cmtarttin
INGREDIENTS
Forthewhitechocolateandvanillamousse
2smallgelatineleaves(3g)
120gwhitechocolate
200mlgfreshdoublecream
1vanillapod(openedandscraped)
280mlfreshdoublecream,softlywhipped
Forthehazelnutsabléepastry
80ggroundhazelnuts
180gplainflour
120gcoldbutter,diced
120gicingsugar
smallpinchofsalt
1mediumegg
Forthefilling
100gwhitechocolate
20gbutter
600gfreshraspberries
(about6punnets)
150graspberryjam
1tablespoonwater
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1.Make thewhite chocolate and vanillamousse (see page 82). Set in the fridge for aminimumof4hours.Thisstepcanbedonethedaybefore.
2. Mix the ground hazelnuts with the flour and make the sablée pastry following themethodonpage10.Restinthefridgefor1hour.
3.Linethetarttin(seepage42),prickwithaforkandputitinthefreezerfor15minutes.
4.Blindbakethepastrybasestraightfromthefreezer(nobakingbeansneeded)untilitisevenlygoldenbrown.
5.Meltthewhitechocolateandbuttertogetherinthemicrowaveatamediumpowerfor1minute. Stirwith a spatula and repeat this step every 30 seconds until the chocolate iscompletelymelted.Brushthepastrybasewithathinlayerofthechocolateandbuttermix.Setinthefridgefor15minutes.Thiswillhelpthepastrytostaycrispy.
6.Fillapipingbagandpipeathinlayerofthewhitechocolatemousseoverthechocolate-coatedpastry.Topthetartwiththeraspberries.
7. In a pan,warmup the raspberry jamwith thewater anduse toglaze the raspberriesusingapastrybrush.
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Strawberrytart
TARTEAUXFRAISES
Thisistheonedessertthatwealllovetoseeinpastry-shopwindows.It’ssoprettyandfreshthatwedevouritwithoureyes.Tryitathome–it’ssuretobeasuccess.
Serves8(24cmtart)/Preparationtime:1hour/Restingtimeinthefridge:2+1hoursRestingtimeinthefreezer:15minutes/Bakingtime:15–20minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3Youwillneeda24cm
tarttin
INGREDIENTS
450gcrèmepâtissière(seepage28)
Forthealmondsabléepastry
80ggroundalmonds
180gplainflour
smallpinckofsalt
120gicingsugar
120gcoldbutter,diced
1mediumegg
Forthefilling
100gwhitechocolate
20gbutter
600gsmallstrawberries(2–3punnets)
Fortheglaze
150gstrawberryjam
1tablespoonwater
1.Makethecrèmepâtissièrefollowingthemethodonpage28,andrestinthefridgefor2hours.
2. Add the ground almonds to the flour and make the sablée pastry according to themethodonpage10.Restinthefridgefor1hour.
3.Linethetarttinwiththepastry(seepage42),prickwithaforkandputitinthefreezerfor15minutes.
4.Putthetartonabakingtrayandbakeblindstraightoutofthefreezerwithoutbaking
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beans.After 15minutes of baking, turn the tray in the oven and bake for another 2–5minutes.Thetartshouldbegoldenbrownalloverbutnottoodark.
5.Meltthewhitechocolateandbutterinthemicrowaveatamediumpowerfor1minute.Stirwithaspatulaandrepeatthisstepevery30secondsuntilthechocolateiscompletelymelted.Brushthepastrybasewithathinlayerofthechocolatemix.Setinthefridgefor15minutes.Thiswillhelpthepastrytostaycrispy.
6.Putthestrawberriesinacolanderandwashthemquicklyundercoldwater.Drainandputthemonakitchenclothtodry.Removethehullsandcutinhalf.
7. Fill a piping bag with the crème pâtissière without working it, and pipe it onto thepastry base. Flatten it out with the back of a tablespoon and garnish the tart with thestrawberryhalves.
8.Inapan,slowlywarmupthestrawberryjamandthewater.Usetoglazethetartusingapastrybrush.
GOODTOKNOW
Ifyoudon’thaveapipingbagyoucanuseafreezerbagwith thecornersnippedoff topipethecrèmepâtissière.Thistartisquitefragileandshouldn’tbeputtogethertoofarinadvance. I would recommendmaking it nomore than 4 hours before serving (and eatwithin24hours).Keepitinthefridgeandtakeitout30minutesbeforeeating.
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Warmchocolatetartlets
TARTELETTESCOULANTESTOUTCHOCOLAT
Thisistheperfectdesserttofinishanelegantmealathomewithfriends.Thetartletscanbemadeinadvanceandthencookedandservedstraightawayatdesserttime.Theirhot
andrunnychocolatecentreswillamazeyourguests.Makes8/Preparationtime:30+20minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:1hourRestingtimeinthefreezer:15minutes/Bakingtime:10–12minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3forthetartletbases,7–10
minutesat180°C/350°F/GasMark4withthefillingYouwillneed8×10cmtartlettins
INGREDIENTS
8darkchocolatesquares(55%)
Forthechocolatesabléepastry
20gcocoapowder
240gplainflour
120gcoldbutter,diced
120gicingsugar
smallpinchofsalt
1mediumegg
Forthechocolatemoussefilling
105gbutter
170gdarkchocolate(55%)
2mediumeggs
2eggyolks
30gcastersugar
1.Mixthecocoapowderwiththeflourandmakethesabléepastryfollowingthemethodonpage10.Restinthefridgefor1hour.
2.Linethetartlettinswiththepastry(seepage42),prickwithaforkandputtheminthefreezerfor15minutes.
3.Putthetartletsonabakingtrayandbakethemblindstraightfromthefreezerwithoutbakingbeans.After8minutesofbaking,turnthetrayintheovenandbakeforanother2–4minutes.Thetartletsshouldbeevenlygoldenbrownbutnottoodark.
4.Coolthetartletsonatray,intheirtins,andplaceachocolatesquareineachone.
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5.Makethechocolatemoussefillingfollowingthemethodonpage60,andfillthetartletbasestothetopusingatablespoonorapipingbag.Setinthefridge.
6.Bakethe tartlets.Checkafter7minutes, turn the tray in theoventhenkeepcheckingthemminutebyminute.Thechocolatetartletshavetobebaked,removedfromtheirtinsandservedstraightaway.Takethemoutoftheovenwhentheircentresstilllookwet;thecentresshouldberunnywhenyoubreakthemwithaspoon.
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Lemonmeringuepies
TARTELETTESMERINGUÉESAUCITRON
ThisistheFrenchversionofthecaramelizedlemontartonpage60:acrunchypastryandasweetmeringueontopofasharplemoncream.Thiscombinationoftasteandtexture
bringsalittle‘jenesaisquoi’tothepiesthatIfindreallyenjoyable.Makes8/Preparationtime:30+20minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:1hourRestingtimeinthefreezer:15minutes/Bakingtime:10–12minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3Youwillneed8×10cm
tartlettins
INGREDIENTS
500gsabléepastry(seepage10)
Forthelemoncream
150mllemonjuice
4eggyolks
2mediumeggs
105gcastersugar
105gsoftbutter
FortheFrenchmeringue
3eggwhites(120g)
200gcastersugar
1.Make thesabléepastryfollowing themethodonpage10,andrest in thefridgefor1hour.
2.Tomake the lemoncream,put the lemonjuice,eggyolks,eggsandcastersugar inasaucepan.Bringittotheboil,stirringcontinuouslywithawhisk.Passthemixturethroughavery fine sieveand leave it to cool to30°Cat room temperature. Incorporate the softbutterusingahandmixer,thensetinthefridge.
3.Linethetartlettinswiththepastry,prickwithaforkandputtheminthefreezerfor15minutes.
4.Placethetartletsonabakingtrayandbakethemblindstraightfromthefreezerwithoutbakingbeans.After8minutesofbaking,turnthetrayintheovenandbakeforanother2–4minutes.Thetartletsshouldbeevenlygoldenbrownbutnottoodark.
5.Removethecoldtartletsfromtheirtinsandfillthemwiththelemoncream.
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6.Make theFrenchmeringue following themethodonpage36.Fill apipingbag fittedwithaflutednozzlewiththemixtureanddecoratethetartlets.
7.Blowtorchthemeringuebyplacingtheflameclosetoitandmovingtheflamequicklyacross the meringue, or bake the pies cold from the fridge for 2 minutes at240°C/475°F/GasMark9.
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Milkchocolateandhazelnuttartlets
TARTELETTESÀLANOISETTEETAUCHOCOLATAULAIT
Richinmilkchocolate,thesetartletsareaperfectmatchforsummerberries.Youcouldalsoservethemwithascoopofagood-qualitypassionfruitsorbetifyouwanttosurprise
yourguestswithanoriginalcombinationworthyofaMichelin-starredrestaurant.Makes10/Preparationtime:30+30minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:1+1hourRestingtimeinthefreezer:15minutes/Bakingtime:10–12minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3Youwillneed10×10cm
tartlettins
INGREDIENTS
Forthehazelnutsabléepastry
80ggroundhazelnuts
180gplainflour
120gcoldbutter,diced
120gicingsugar
½teaspoonsalt
1mediumegg
Forthemilkchocolatefilling
200gcrèmeanglaise(seepage26)
200gmilkchocolate
100mlfreshdoublecream
Forthemarinatedberries
100gstrawberries,hulledandquartered
100graspberries
50gblueberries
10gcastersugar
1. Mix the ground hazelnuts with the flour and make the sablée pastry following themethodonpage10.Restinthefridgefor1hour.
2.Linethetartlettinswiththepastry(seepage42),prickwithaforkandputinthefreezerfor15minutes.
3.Placethetartletsonabakingtrayandblindbakethemstraightfromthefreezerwithout
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bakingbeans.After8minutesofbaking,turnthetrayintheovenandbakeforanother2–4minutes.Thetartletsshouldbeevenlygoldenbrownbutnottoodark.
4.Makethecrèmeanglaisefollowingthemethodonpage26,andweighout200g.
5.Melt themilkchocolate in themicrowaveatmediumpowerfor1minute.Stirwithaspatulaandrepeatthisstepevery30secondsuntilthechocolateismelted.
6.For themilkchocolate filling,pour thehotcrèmeanglaiseon topof themeltedmilkchocolatein4batches,stirringeachtimewithaspatula.Whiskthecreamuntilitissoftlywhippedandfolditintothechocolatemix.Fillthetartletstothetopandsetinthefridgefor1hour.
7.Tomarinate theberries,half anhourbefore serving,put the strawberries, raspberriesandblueberries inabowlandsprinklewithcastersugar.Keepat roomtemperatureandstiroccasionally.Servewiththetartletsand/orusetodecorate.
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CHAPTER4
Puffpastry
LAPÂTEFEUILLETÉE
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AppletartTatin
TARTETATINAUXPOMMES
Createdinthenineteenth-centuryintherestaurantoftheTatinsistersatLamotte-BeuvroninthecentreofFrance,legendhasitthatthetartwasbornfromamistake.Aburntappletartwassavedbykeepingthecaramelizedapplesandbakingthemwithapastrytop.The
cookedpiewasthenturnedoutandservedupsidedown.Serves10(24cmtart)/Preparationtime:40minutes+1hour/Restingtimeinthefridge:2½hours
Bakingtime:30–40minutesat200°C/400°F/GasMark6Youwillneeda24cmheavy-basedovenprooftarttin
INGREDIENTS
400gpuffpastry(seepage12)
Fortheappletopping
15smallCoxorBraeburnapples
200gcastersugar
75gbutter
1.Makethepuffpastryfollowingthemethodonpage12.Thisstepcanbedonethedaybefore.
2.Peel,cutinhalfandcoretheapples.
3. In a heavy-based ovenproof dish that you can also use on the hob, or an ovenprooffrying pan, make a soft caramel by melting together the butter and caster sugar on amediumheatuntiltheliquidisgoldenbrownbutnottoodark.
4.Off theheat, tightlypack theapplehalves into thedishandcookthemslowlyon thestovefor20–30minuteswithalidon.Thesoftcaramelwillstarttocookandcolourtheapplesfromthebottomtothetop.Removefromtheheatandleavetocoolfor30minutesinthedish.
5.Rolloutthepuffpastry(2.5–3mmthickness)andcutaroundbase1.5cmwiderthanthetartdish.Prickitwithaforkonbothsides.
6.Covertheappleswiththepastry.Foldintheexcesspastry,pushingdownandtuckingintheedgesallaroundtheinsidebetweenthedishandthefruit.Withaknifetip,makeafewholesinthepastrytoallowthesteamtoescape.
7.BakethetartTatinuntilthepuffpastryisgoldenbrown,thencoolitinthedish.Beforeserving,flashthetartintheovenfor5minutesat200°C/400°F/GasMark6andthenturnitovercarefullyontoatray.
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GOODTOKNOW
ApeartartTatincanalsobemadefollowingthesamemethodandusingWilliamspears,butmakesurethey’renottooripe.Ifyou’reshortontime,youcanuseashortcrustpastry(seepage6)insteadofthepuffpastry,whichisjustwhatmymotherwoulddo.
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Summerfruitspufftartlets
TARTELETTESFEUILLETÉESAUXFRUITSD’ÉTÉ
Ijustlovethesetartlets;theyremindmeofmychildhoodwhenmysisterIsabelleandIusedtostopatthepâtisserieonourwayhomefromschool.Theylookedsopretty,and
evennowit’sstillveryhardtodecidewhichonetopick!Makes8/Preparationtime:40+50minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:2½hoursBakingtime:15–20
minutesat200°C/400°F/GasMark6Youwillneedanon-stickbakingtray
INGREDIENTS
500gpuffpastry(seepage12)
225gcrèmepâtissière(½recipeonpage28)
1beatenegg
Forthefruitgarnish
100gstrawberries
100graspberries
100gblueberries
(Or300ganyfruitsofyourchoice)
Fortheglaze
150graspberryjam
1tablespoonwater
1.Makethepuffpastryfollowingthemethodonpage12.Thisstepcanbedonethedaybefore.
2.Makeacrèmepâtissière(seepage28)andrestinthefridgefor2hours.
3.Rolloutthepuffpastrytoa40×30cmrectangle,3mmthick.Removetheexcessflouron the top and underneath it. Trim the edges with a knife in order to get a perfectrectangularshape.
4.Withalargeknife,cutinfromthelongside4bands2cmwide.Dividetherestinto2bands,16cmwide.
5.Prickwithaforkthe2widestbandsofpastryonbothsides.Brushbothsidesofeachbandwitheggandplacethe4smallestbandsofpastryontopofthem.Pressgentlywiththefingertips tosealandmarkthesidewithaknife tip.Brushthesideswiththebeatenegg.Laythepastrybasesonanon-stickbakingtrayandrestfor30minutesinthefridge
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beforebakinguntilgoldenbrown.Coolonwirerack.
6.Fillapipingbagwiththecrèmepâtissièrewithoutworkingitandpipeathinlayerontoeachbandofcookedpuffpastry.Atablespooncanalsobeused(butinthiscase,thecrèmepâtissièremustbewhiskedbeforeuseinordertosoftenit).
7.Divideeachbandinto4individualtartletsusingaserratedknife.Garnishwiththefruitsofyourchoice.
8. Inapanovera lowheat,warmup the raspberry jamand thewater.Use toglaze thetartletswithapastrybrush.
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Fineplumtart
TARTEFINEAUXPRUNES
InFrance,aclassicfinetartwouldbemadewithapples.ButthechefinmedecidedotherwisewhenIsawsomeamazingplumsinthemarketoneday.Imadeafineplumtart
forthefirsttimeanditwassogoodthattherecipehadtobeinthisbook.Serves8/Preparationtime:40+30minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:2½hours/Restingtimeinthe
freezer:30minutes/Bakingtime:10minutesat210°C/425°F/GasMark7+25–30minutesat180°C/350°F/GasMark4/Youwillneedanon-stickbakingtray
INGREDIENTS
500gpuffpastry(seepage12)
1beatenegg
Fortheplumcompote
4riperedplums,diced
80–100gcastersugar,totaste
Forthegarnish
10redplums(700-800g)
40gcastersugar
1.Makethepuffpastryfollowingthemethodonpage12.Thisstepcanbedonethedaybefore.
2.Fortheplumcompote,putthedicedplumsandcastersugarinapanandcookoveralowheatfor15minutes,stirringregularly.
3.Rolloutthepuffpastrytoa30×30cmsquare,3mmthick.Removetheexcessflouronthe top and underneath it. Trim the edgeswith a knife in order to get a perfect squareshape.
4.Withalargeknife,cuta25cmsquarefromthepuffpastry.Usethetrimmingstocut4bands(25×2cm)for thecrust.Cuteachendof thebandata45-degreeangle tofit thepastrybase.
5. Prick the pastry basewith a fork, turn it over onto a baking tray and prick it again.Brushthesidesofthepastrybasewitheggandlayontopthe4bandsforthecrust.Pressfirmlywithyourfingertipstoseal.Brushwithegganddecoratethesideswiththetipofaknife.
6.Spreadtheplumcompoteinsidethepastrybase.
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7.Cut in half and stone the plums.Slice themanduse to garnish the tart. Sprinkle thecaster sugar on the fruit andbrush the crustwith egg.Put the tart in the freezer for 30minutes before baking until the pastry base is evenly golden brown underneath. Use aspatulatoliftupthetartandcheckitscolour.Coolonawirerack.
GOODTOKNOW
Cookingatahightemperaturehelpsthepuffpastrytodevelopandriseintheoven.Butinorderforthepastrytocookevenly,especiallythepartunderneaththefruitorcream,theoventemperaturemustbeturneddowntofinishoffthebaking.Otherwisethecrustaroundthe tart will become too dark, too quickly, while the pastry underneath will not haveenoughtimetocook.
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TwelfthNightcake:almondpithivier
GALETTEDESROIS
ThiscakeiseateninFranceonTwelfthNight.Thetraditionisthatachildwillhideunderthetableandassignasliceofcaketoeachguest.Theonewhofindsthehiddencharminthecakewillbecomethekingorqueenandwillbecrownedwithapapercrown.This
personwillthengettochoosetheirkingoraqueenandgivethatpersonthesecondpapercrown.
Serves10(25cmcake)/Preparationtime:40+45minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:2½hoursRestingtimeinfreezer:30minutes/Bakingtime:10minutesat220°C/425°F/GasMark7+25–35minutes
at180°C/350°F/GasMark4/Youwillneedanon-stickbakingtray
INGREDIENTS
800gpuffpastry(seepage12)
Acharmtohideinthecake
1beatenegg,toglaze
Forthefrangipanecream
110gcrèmepâtissière(¼recipeseepage28)
420galmondcream(seepage30)
Forthesyrup
50gcastersugar
25mlwater
1.Makethepuffpastryfollowingthemethodonpage12.
2.Makeacrèmepâtissièrefollowingthemethodonpage28andrest in thefridgefor2hours.
3.Makethealmondcream(seepage30)andkeepitatroomtemperature.
4.Inalargebowl,whisk110gofcrèmepâtissièreandfoldinthealmondcreamin3or4additions.Setasideatroomtemperature.
5. Divide the puff pastry into 2 unequal pieces (about 350g and 450g). Roll out thesmallestpiece to3mmthickandcutaroundpastrybaseabout28cmindiameter.Brushtheflouroffandplaceitonanon-stickbakingtrayoratraylinedwithbakingpaper.
6.Putthefrangipanecreaminitsmiddle,leavinga4cmgapfromtheedgeofthepastry,andputthecharminthecreamawayfromthecentre.Brushthesidesofthepastrybasewithegg.
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7.Rolloutthelargestpieceofpuffpastryto3mmthick,brushtheflouroffandputitoverthe frangipane creamandpastrybase.Press firmlywith the fingertips to seal the sides.Withaknife,removetheexcesspastry,leavinga3–4cmgapbetweenthecreamandtheedgeofthepuffpastry,thenbrushthecakewithbeatenegg.Withaknifetip,makeaholeinthecentretoallowthesteamtoescapeanddrawarosette.Glazeasecondtimeandrestinthefreezerfor30minutesbeforebakinguntilthebottomofthecakeisevenlygoldenbrown.
8.Tomakethesyrup,putthecastersugarandwaterinapanandbringtotheboil.About5minutesbeforetheendofbaking,removethecakefromtheovenandbrushitwithsyrup.Finishbaking,thencoolonawirerackandservewarm.
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Cherryandhazelnutpithiviers
PITHIVIERSÀLANOISETTEETAUXCERISES
Thisismygrown-upversionoftheclassicTwelfthNightcake.Irecommendyouserveitwarmwiththeredwineandcherrycompote.
Makes8/Preparationtime:40+40minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:2½hours+15minutesRestingtimeinfreezer:30minutes/Bakingtime:20–25minutesat200°C/400°F/GasMark6Youwillneedanon-
stickbakingtrayand2pastrycutters(90and100mm)orsimilar(glasses,bowlsormugsturnedupsidedownandaknifetocut)
INGREDIENTS
500gpuffpastry(seepage12)
1beatenegg,toglaze
Forthefilling
210ghazelnutcream(½almondrecipe,onpage30)
24–32stonedcherriescutintohalves
Forthesyrup
50gcastersugar
25mlwater
1.Makethepuffpastryfollowingthemethodonpage12.
2. Make the hazelnut cream (see page 30), using ground hazelnuts instead of groundalmonds.Setasideatroomtemperature.
3.Rolloutthepuffpastryto3mmthickandremovetheexcessflouronbothsides.With2pastrycutters(90and100mm),cut8pithiviersbasesand8tops.Resttheminthefridgefor15minutes.
4.Removethe8pithivierbases(thesmallerones)fromthefridgeandbrushwithbeatenegg.Putalargeteaspoonofhazelnutcreamintheircentresand6–8cherryhalves.Leave2cmgapstosealthetops.
5. Remove the 8 tops from the fridge and place one over each pithivier. Press firmlyaroundthesideswithyourfingertipstoseal.
6.Removetheexcesspastryusingaknifeorapastrycutter,leavinga2cmgapbetweenthecreamandtheedgeofthepastry.Brushthetopofthepithivierswithbeatenegg.Withaknifetip,makeaholeintheircentrestoallowthesteamtoescapeanddrawonapattern.Glazeoncemoreandleavefor30minutesinthefreezerbeforebaking.
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7.Forthesyrup,putthecastersugarandthewaterinapanandbringtotheboil.About5minutes before the end of baking, remove the pithiviers from the oven and brush themwithsyrup.Finishbakingandcoolonawirerack.Servewarm.
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Appleandblackberryturnovers
CHAUSSONSAUXPOMMESETÀLAMÛRE
ThisrecipeistheperfectillustrationofhowlivinginEnglandinfluencedmybaking.IhavechangedtheclassicFrenchappleturnoverintoanappleandblackberryone.Andit’s
oh-sogood!Makes8/Preparationtime:40+30minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:2½hoursRestingtimein
freezer:1hour/Bakingtime:20-25minutesat200°C/400°F/GasMark6Youwillneedanon-stickbakingtray
INGREDIENTS
500gpuffpastry(seepage12)
1beatenegg,toglaze
Fortheappleandblackberrycompote
2smallBramleyapples,peeled,coredanddiced
150gblackberries20gbutter
120–150gcastersugar,totaste
1tablespoonwater
1.Makethepuffpastryfollowingthemethodonpage12.Thisstepcanbedonethedaybefore.
2.Tomakethecompote,putthedicedapples,blackberries,butter,castersugarandwaterin apanandcook themslowlyover a lowheat for15minutes.Stir regularly.Cool thecompoteatroomtemperature.
3.Rolloutthepuffpastryto4mmthickandremovetheexcessflouronbothsides.Cut8circles of 15cm using a bowl turned upside down and a knife, and roll them into ovalshapeswitharollingpin.
4.Put2smalltablespoonsofcompotejustunderneaththecentreofeachcircleandspreadout in a half-circle leaving 3cm around the edge free from compote to seal the pastry.Brushthesideswitheggandfoldthepuffpastryinhalf.Withyourfingertips,pressfirmlyonthesidestosealthepastry.
5.Withasmallknife,trimofftheexcesspastryandshapetheturnoversintohalf-circlesleavingalargebandofpuffpastryaroundthecompote.Placethemonanon-stickbakingtray and brush with beaten egg.Make some drawings with a knife tip without cuttingthroughthepastryandglazethemasecondtime.Makeaholeinitscentreandrestinthefreezerfor1hourbeforebaking.Coolonawirerack.
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GOODTOKNOW
Therestingtimeinthefreezerisoptional,butIalwaysdoit.Usingfrozencompotemakesitlesslikelytheturnoverswillleakduringbaking.
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Vanillamillefeuille
MILLE-FEUILLEÀLAVANILLE
Atrueclassicbeauty!Thissliceissoelegantthatyouneverquiteknowhowtoeatitwithoutdestroyingallthelayers.Asharpserratedknifecanbeasolutionbutit’smorefun
justtodigin.Serves10(1largemillefeuille)/Preparationtime:40+45minutesRestingtimeinthefridge:2hours+
45minutes/Bakingtime:25–30minutesat180°C/350°F/GasMark4/Youwillneed2bakingtrays
INGREDIENTS
800gpuffpastry(seepage12)
900gcrèmepâtissière(2×recipepage28)
200gdicedalmonds
40gdarkchocolate
Fortheglaze
250gwhitefondant
(Or250gwhiteicing+30–40mlboilingwater)
1.Makethepuffpastryfollowingthemethodonpage12.Thisstepcanbedonethedaybefore.
2.Make the crème pâtissière (see page 28) and rest in the fridge for aminimum of 2hours.Thisstepcanalsobedonethedaybefore.
3.Dividethepuffpastryinto3equalpieces.Rolleachouttoa4mmthicksquare.Removeanyexcessflourandprickthemonbothsideswithafork.Putthesquaresonbakingtraysandresttheminthefridgefor30minutesbeforebakingtopreventthemfromshrinking.
4.Placeeachsheetofpuffpastrybetween2sheetsofbakingpaper,thenbetween2bakingtrays, to stop them from risingexcessively.Bake for20minutes, then remove the traysfromtheovenandpressonthemusingyourbodyweighttoflattenthemout.Checkthecolourofthepuffpastry,turnthetraysandputthembackintheoventofinishbakingfor5–10minutes;itshouldbeevenlygoldenbrown.Coolonawirerack.
5.Toast thedicedalmondsin theovenfor10minutesat150°C/300°F/GasMark2.Stirafter5minutes.
6.Trim the puff-pastry sheets, one at a time, into 3 squares of 20cm.Fill a piping bagfittedwithamedium-sizenozzlewiththesetcrèmepâtissière.
7.Assemblethemillefeuille:putthefirstsquareofpuffpastryonatray,pipeoverevenly
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thecrèmepâtissière tocover itandput thesecondsquareofpastryontop.Pipeanotherlayer of crème pâtissière and lay on the final square of pastry. Put in the fridge for 15minutes.
8.Meltthechocolateinthemicrowave(orinabain-marie,seepage24)atmediumpowerfor1minute,thencheckandstirwithaspatula.Repeatthisstepevery30secondsuntilthechocolateismelted.Makeapaperconefrombakingpaper,fillitwiththechocolateandkeepwarm.
9. In a pan or in the microwave, slowly warm up the white fondant to 36–37°C.Alternatively,put thewhite icing inabowlandwarmit (35–40°C) in themicrowaveatmediumpower.Putitinthebowlofanelectricmixerfittedwithapaddle,workthewhiteicingandhotwateruntilthemixsoftensandbecomesrunny.
10.Tofinishoffthemillefeuille,spreadovertheglazewhileitisstillwarmandpipeonsomestraightlineswiththechocolate.Marbletheglazeusingthetipofaknifeinacriss-crosspattern.
11.Spreadsomecrèmepatisserieoverthesidesandcoatwiththetoasteddicedalmonds.
CHEF’SADVICE
Thepuffpastrywillabsorb themoistureof thecreamratherquickly, so themillefeuilleshouldbeeatenwithinaday.Cutthemillefeuillewithasharpserratedknife.
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Whitechocolateandraspberrymillefeuilles
MILLEFEUILLESAUCHOCOLATBLANCETAUXFRAMBOISES
TobeenjoyedwithaglassofChampagneandEdithPiafsinging‘L’hymneàl’amour’inthebackground,thisistheperfectdessertforaromanticdinner.
Makes6/Preparationtime:40+45minutesRestingtimeinthefridge:4hours+30minutesBakingtime:15-20minutesat170°C/325°F/GasMark3/Youwillneed2bakingtrays
INGREDIENTS
300gpuffpastry(seepage12)
Forthewhitechocolateandvanillamousse
2smallgelatineleaves(3g)
120gwhitechocolate
200gfreshdoublecream
1vanillapod(openedandscraped)
280gfreshdoublecream,softlywhipped
Forthedecoration
icingsugar,todust
2largepunnetsofraspberries(125geach)
1.Makethepuffpastryfollowingthemethodonpage12.Thisstepcanbedonethedaybefore.
2.Makethewhitechocolateandvanillamousse(seepage82).Thisstepcanalsobedonethedaybefore.
3.Rolloutthepuffpastrytoarectangle2mmthick(30×40cm).Restinthefridgefor30minutesbeforebakingtopreventitfromshrinking.
4.Placethepuffpastrybetween2sheetsofbakingpaper,thenbetween2bakingtrays,tostopitfromrisingexcessively.Bakefor12minutes,thenremovethetraysfromtheovenandpressdownonthemusingyourbodyweighttoflattenitout.Checkthecolourofthepastrybeforeputtingitbackintheovenfor6to8minutestofinishbaking;itshouldbeevenlygoldenbrown.Coolonawirerack.
5.Witha serratedknife,cut18 rectanglesofapproximately12×4cm. Ialwaysdoonemillefeuilleatatime(3rectangles).Dividethepastryinto2rectangles(15×40cm),andthen cut 3 strips (15 × 4cm) for the first millefeuille. Place them in front of youlengthways,nexttoeachother,andtrimthemdownto12cm,cuttingbothsidesofthe3
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pieces. Put them aside on top of each other and repeat these steps for the remainingmillefeuilles.
6. Fill a piping bag fittedwith amedium-size nozzle (square or round)with thewhitechocolateandvanillamousse.
7. Assemble a millefeuille with 1 rectangle of puff pastry, a layer of white chocolatemousse,thenanotherrectangleofpuffpastryandalayerofraspberries.Dustthefinaltoplayer of puff pastry by covering half of itwith a sheet of paper placed diagonally anddustingtheuncoveredpastrywiththeicingsugar.Removethesheetofpapercarefullytoreveal the uncoated pastry and place it on the top of themillefeuille. Decorate with 3raspberryhalves.
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Darkchocolatemillefeuille
MILLE-FEUILLETOUTCHOCOLAT
Thisdessertwillpleaseallchocolatelovers–fromthepastrytotheicing,it’sallchocolate.
Serves10(1largemillefeuille)/Preparationtime:40+35minutesRestingtimeinthefridge:2½hoursBakingtime:25-30minutesat180°C/350°F/GasMark4/Youwillneed2bakingtrays
INGREDIENTS
Forthedough
40gcocoapowder
375gplainflour
75gwhitebreadflour
10gsalt
300mlwater
1teaspoonwhitewinevinegar
500gbutter
Forthemillefeuillecream
300gdarkchocolate(70%),chopped
700mlfullfatorsemi–skimmedmilk
5eggyolks
100gcastersugar
50gplainflour
Forthegarnish
50gicingsugar
50gcocoapowder
1.Sift thecocoapowderwithbothof thefloursandmake thepuffpastryfollowing themethodonpage12.Thisstepcanbedonethedaybefore.
2.Forthemillefeuillecream,putthechoppedchocolateinalargebowl.Makethecrèmepâtissière following themethod on page 28. Pass it through a very fine sieve over thechocolateandwhiskuntilmelted.Coverwithcling filmso that it is incontactwith themixtureandrestinthefridgeforaminimumof2hours.
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3.Cut thepuffpastry into4equalparts(only3willbeused).Roll themout into4mm-thickrectangles.Removetheexcessflourandprickthemonbothsideswithafork.Restinthefridgefor30minutes.
4.Placeeachsheetofpuffpastrybetween2sheetsofbakingpaper,thenbetween2traysto stop it from rising excessively.Bake for 20minutes, then remove the trays from theovenandpresson themusingyourbodyweight to flattenout thepastry.Turn the traysandput themback in theoven to finishbaking forabout5–10minutes.Coolonawirerack.
5.Oneatthetime,trimthepastrysheetsdownwithaserratedknifeinto3rectangles(15×28cm).
6.Whiskthechocolatemillefeuillecreaminalargebowlandfillapipingbagfittedwithamedium-sizenozzle.
7.Assemblethemillefeuille:putafirstrectangleofpuffpastryonatray,pipeoveralayerof cream and cover it up with a second rectangle of pastry. Pipe a second layer ofmillefeuillecream.Todecorate thefinal layerofpuffpastrywith icingsugarandcocoapowder,placeitontheworksurface,putasheetofpaperacrossdiagonally,andsprinkletheuncoveredpastrywithicingsugarusingasieve.Removethesheetofpaperandslideoff the icing sugar.Put it backon the third layerofpastry to cover the icing sugar andsprinklesomecocoapowderontheotherside.Slowlyremovethepaper.Placethepastrycarefullyonthetopofthemillefeuilleandkeepinthefridge.
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CHAPTER5
Chouxpastry
LAPÂTEÀCHOUX
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Chantillychoux
CHOUXCHANTILLY
Veryeasytomake,thisistheidealdessertforalargereceptionordinnerparty.ServetheChantillychouxwithafreshberrysaladorenjoythemontheirownwithanicecupoftea.Makes20largechoux/Preparationtime:20+20minutesBakingtime:20minutesat200°C/400°F/Gas
Mark6+15minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3todryout/Youwillneedanon-stickbakingtray
INGREDIENTS
350gchouxpastry(½recipeonpage18)
450gChantillycream(1½recipeonpage34)
1beatenegg,toglaze
30gicingsugar
1.Makethechouxpastryfollowingthemethodonpage18,uptostep6.
2.On a non-stick tray, pipe the chouxpastry into domes4cm in diameter, in staggeredrows,6cmapart.Brushthemwithbeateneggandbakewithasmallramekinfilledwithboilingwater(80ml)atthebottomoftheovenwithoutopeningtheovendoor(otherwisechouxwillcollapse).Coolonawirerack.
3.MaketheChantillycreamfollowingthemethodonpage34,fillapipingbagfittedwithaflutednozzleandkeepitinthefridge.
4. Remove the top of the chouxwith a serrated knife and fill themwith the Chantillycream.
5.PutthelidsbackonandsprinkletheChantillychouxwithicingsugarusingaveryfinesieve.
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Chocolateéclairs
ÉCLAIRSAUCHOCOLAT
Theseéclairslookmorecomplicatedtomakethantheyreallyare.Servethemasadessertorforafternoontea.It’saguaranteedsuccess.
Makes20largeeclairs/Preparationtime:20+45minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:2hoursBakingtime:15minutesat200°C/400°F/GasMark6+20minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3todryout/Youwill
needanon-stickbakingtray
INGREDIENTS
350gchouxpastry(½recipeonpage18)
1beatenegg,toglaze
Forthechocolatecrèmepâtissière
150gdarkchocolate(55%)
450gcrèmepâtissière(seepage28)
Forthecocoaicing
15gcocoapowder
3tablespoonswater
250gwhitefondantformillefeuille(or250gwhiteicing+30–40mlboilingwater)
1.Chopthedarkchocolateintosmallpiecesandputitinalargebowl.
2.Make thecrèmepâtissière following themethodonpage28, thenpass thehotcrèmepâtissière thought a sieve over the chopped chocolate andwhisk untilmelted. Cover itwitha layerofclingfilm indirectcontactwith thecream,andput it in the fridge foraminimumof2hours.
3.Makethechouxpastryfollowingthemethodonpage18uptostep6.
4.Onanon-stickbakingtray,pipethechouxpastryinto10cm-longbatons,instaggeredrows5cmapart.Brushwithbeateneggandbakewitharamekinfilledwithboilingwater(80ml) at the bottomof the oven.Do not open the oven during the first 15minutes ofbakingotherwisethechouxwillcollapse.Coolonawirerack.
5.Whiskthechocolatecrèmepâtissièreandfillapipingbagfittedwithamediumroundnozzle.
6.Turntheéclairsupsidedownandcut theminhalfalongtheirsides,keepingonesidestillattached.Fillthemwiththechocolatecrèmepâtissière.
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7.Forthecocoaicing,mixthecocoapowderwiththewatertomakeapaste.Warmupthewhite fondant (36–37°C) in themicrowave, atmediumpower for 1minute, andmix itwiththecocoapaste.Alternatively,putthewhiteicinginabowlandwarmfor30secondsin themicrowaveatmediumpower(35–40°C).Place it in thebowlofanelectricmixerfittedwithapaddle,workitwithboilingwateruntilthemixsoftens,thenaddthecocoapaste.Themixmustberunny.Usewarm.
8.Glazethechocolateéclairswiththecocoaicingusingateaspoonontheflatsideoftheéclairs.Setinthefridge.
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Chocolateprofiteroles
PROFITEROLESAUCHOCOLAT
Iliketovarythisrecipebyusingvanillawhippedcreamormintchocolate-chipicecreaminsteadofthecrèmepâtissière.Youcouldalsotrysprinklingsometoastedflakedalmonds
ontopofthechocolatesauce.Makes25/Preparationtime:20+40minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:2hoursBakingtime:15
minutesat200°C/400°F/GasMark6+15minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3todryout/Youwillneedanon-stickbakingtray
INGREDIENTS
450gcrèmepâtissière(page28)
350gchouxpastry(½recipeonpage18)
1beatenegg,toglaze
Forthechocolateganache
125gdarkchocolate(64%)
35gbutter
60mlfullfatorsemi-skimmedmilk
25mlfreshdoublecream
Forthechocolatesauce
150gdarkchocolate
200mlfullfatorsemi-skimmedmilk
1.Makethecrèmepâtissièrefollowingthemethodonpage28andrestinthefridgefor2hours.
2.Makethechouxpastryfollowingthemethodonpage18uptostep6.
3. On a non-stick baking tray, pipe the choux pastry into domes 3cm in diameter, instaggeredrows5cmaparttoallowthemtospread.Brushthemwithbeateneggandbakewitharamekinfilledwithboilingwater(80ml)atthebottomoftheoven.Donotopentheovenduring thefirst15minutesofbakingotherwise thechouxwillcollapse.Coolonawirerack.
4.Whiskthecrèmepâtissièreandfillapipingbagfittedwithasmallroundnozzle.
5.With the tipofaknife,makeaholeat thebottomofeachchouxandfillwithcrèmepâtissière.
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6.Tomake the ganache,melt the chocolate and butter in themicrowave (or in a bain-marie,seepage24), atmediumpower for1minute, thencheckand stirwitha spatula.Repeatthisstepevery30secondsuntilbotharemelted.Thenaddthecoldmilkandcreamin3or4batches.Thiswillmake the temperatureof theganachedrop.Addanextra20secondsinthemicrowavetowarmitupandbringitbackto40°C(itmustfeelwarmbutnothot)whichisagoodtemperaturetouseaganache.Dipthetopsoftheprofiterolesintotheganacheandsetinthefridge.
7.Forthechocolatesauce,chopthechocolateandputitinabowl.Bringthemilktotheboil,thenpourhalfofitonthetopofthechoppedchocolate.Stirwithaspatulauntilthechocolateismeltedandaddtherestofthemilk.Servewarmwiththeprofiteroles.
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Rocsugarchoux
CHOUQUETTES
Lightandcrispy,theyarethechildren’sfavourite.Ifyoudogetthechancetotastethem,Irecommendyoueatthemwhentheyarestillwarmfromtheoven,alongwithanicecupof
coffee.Makesapproximately60/Preparationtime:25minutesBakingtime:14+2–4minutesat
180°C/350°F/GasMark4/Youwillneed2non-stickbakingtrays
INGREDIENTS
Forthechouxpastry
125mlfullfatorsemi-skimmedmilk
125mlwater
5gsalt
15gcastersugar
110gbutter
150gwhitebreadflour
4mediumeggs
Forthetopping
1beatenegg,toglaze
50gnibbedsugar
1.Putthemilk,water,salt,castersugarandbutterinasaucepan,andfollowthemethodformakingchouxpastryonpage18,uptostep6.
2.Fillapipingbagfittedwithamedium-sizenozzlewiththechouxmixture.On2non-stick trays,pipe thepastry intodomes2cm indiameter, in staggered rows, leaving4cmbetweenthemtoallowthemtospread.
3.Brushthemwithbeatenegg,sprinkleoversomenibbedsugarandbakefor14minuteswitha ramekin filledwithboilingwaterat thebottomof theoven,withoutopening theovendoor(otherwisethechouxwillcollapse).Thenturnthetrayintheovenforanother2–4minutes.Therocsugarchouxmustnotbetoodark.Coolonawirerack.
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Icedcoffeecreamchoux
RELIGIEUSEAUCAFÉ
I’macoffeegirlandIloveitwhenthecoffeecrèmepâtissièreisverystrong.Ifindthatitbalancesharmoniouslywiththesweetnessofthecoffeeicing,andmakestheselittleiced
coffeecreamchouxquiteaddictive.Makes12/Preparationtime:20+50minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:2hours/Bakingtime:15
minutesat200°C/400°F/GasMark6+15–20minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3todryout/Youwillneedanon-stickbakingtray
INGREDIENTS
350gchouxpastry(½recipeonpage18)
1beatenegg,toglaze
150gChantillycream(½recipeonpage34)
Forthecoffeecrèmepâtissière
450gcrèmepâtissière(recipeonpage28)
2–3teaspoonscoffeeextract,totaste
Forthecoffeeicing
250gwhitefondantformillefeuille(or250gwhiteicing+30–40mlboilingwater)
2teaspoonscoffeeextract,totaste
1.Makethecrèmepâtissièrefollowingthemethodonpage28,andrestinthefridgefor2hours.
2.Makethechouxpastryfollowingthemethodonpage18,uptostep6.
3.Onanon-stickbakingtray,pipethechouxpastryinstaggeredrowsintodomes4cmindiameter,6cmapartforthebases,and2cmdomes,3cmapartforthetopstoallowthemtospread.Brushthemwithbeateneggandbakefor15minutesat200°C/400°F/GasMark6witharamekinfilledwithboilingwater(80ml)atthebottomoftheovenwithoutopeningtheovendoorotherwisethechouxwillcollapse.Transfer thetopstoacoolingrackandputthebasesbackintheovenfor15minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3.Coolonawirerack.
4.Whiskthecrèmepâtissièreinabowlandflavouritwiththecoffeeextract.Fillapipingbagfittedwithasmallroundnozzle.
5.Withthetipofaknife,makeaholeatthebottomofeachchouxandfillwiththecoffeecrèmepâtissière.
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6. For the coffee icing,warm up thewhite fondant (36–37°C) in themicrowave, for 1minuteatmediumpower.Alternatively,put thewhite icing inabowlandwarm it (35–40°C) in themicrowaveatmediumpower.Put it in thebowlofanelectricmixer fittedwith a paddle, work the white icing and hot water until the mix softens and becomesrunny.Flavourwiththecoffeeextract.
7.Glaze the chouxby dipping them into thewarm coffee icing.Leave to crystallize atroom temperature for 15 minutes. Warm up the coffee icing in the microwave for 30seconds and build up the choux, using a little bit of icing to stick the bases and topstogether.Setinthefridge.
8.MakeaChantillycreamfollowingthemethodonpage34andusetodecoratetheicedcoffeecreamchoux.
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Howtomakeacaramel
1.Put thecastersugar in thepanwithenoughwater tomakea thickpaste.Somewhitewine vinegar can also be added to the mix to stop the sugar from crystallizing (½teaspoon).
2.Overahighheat,startcookingwithoutstirringuntilthesugarsyrupstartstocolour.Apastrybrushdippedinwatercanbeusedtocleantheedgesofthepanandstopthesugarfromburning.
3.Finishbycookingoveramediumheatuntil thesugar reaches155–160°Cforaclearcaramel.
4.Alternatively,heatto170–180°Cforadarkercaramel.
CHEF’SADVICE
Makingcaramelinvolvesveryhightemperatures.Donottouchortastethecaramelwhileit’s still hot. Caramel will continue to cook if it stays in the pan: 20g of butter or 3tablespoonsofwatercanbeaddedtoslowitdown.Becarefulwhenaddingcoldwaterorbutterasthetemperaturedifferencecouldcausethecarameltospit.Aclearcaramelmustbeusedstraightaway;itwillcoolandsetratherquickly.
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Frenchweddingcake
CROQUEMBOUCHE
Thisisourcelebrationcake;weeatitinFranceatweddings,butalsoatchristeningsandfirstcommunion.Thesespecialcakesaremadeofcaramelizedchouxfilledwithvanillacrèmepâtissière,anddecoratedwithsugaredalmonds.Somealsohaveanougatinebase
andtheycomeinallkindsofshapes.Preparationtime:20minutes+1hour/Restingtimeinthefridge:2hours/Bakingtime:15minutesat200°C/400°F/GasMark6+15minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3todryoutYouwillneed2non-stick
bakingtraysanda20cmbowl
INGREDIENTS
1.8kgcrèmepâtissière(4×recipeonpage28)
700gchouxpastry(seeonpage18)
100gsugaredalmonds
Forthecaramel
500gcastersugar
150mlwater
1.Makethecrèmepâtissièreandrestinthefridgeforaminimumof2hours.
2.Makethechouxpastryfollowingthemethodonpage18uptostep6.On2non-stickbakingtrays,pipeitintodomes3cmindiameter,instaggeredrows,keeping4cmbetweenthem toallow them tospread.Bake themfollowing themethodonpage18.The crèmepâtissièreandthechouxcanbemadethedaybefore.Thechouxmustthenbeflashedintheovenfor2minutesat180°C/350°F/GasMark4beforeuse.
3. In a large bowl,whisk the crème pâtissière and fill a piping bag fittedwith a smallroundnozzle.Thepipingbagwillbeeasiertohandleifit’sonlyhalffilledwithcream.
4. With the knife tip, make a hole at the bottom of each choux and fill with crèmepâtissière.
5.Oiltheoutsideofa20cmbowlandturnitupsidedownonaworksurfacecoveredwithbakingpaper.Thiswillactasaguidewhenbuildingthefirstlayerofchoux.
6.Makeaclearcaramelfollowingthemethodonpage126.Thecaramelwillneedtobewarmeduponeortwiceduringtheprocess.
7.Build the first layer of choux.The bottomof the chouxmust be in contactwith thebowl.Withonehand,holdthefirstchouxagainst thebowlanddipthesideofasecondchouxintothecaramelwiththeotherhand.Stickthemtoeachotherononeside.Diptheside of a third choux into the caramel and stick it to the second one on its other side.
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Repeatthisstepwithasmanychouxasyouneedtocompletethefirstlayer.
8.Removethebowlandfinishoffthecroquembouchebymakingsomesmallerlayersofcaramelizedchoux,placedontopofeachother,followingthestepsbelow.
9.Build thesecond layerofchoux.Dip thesideof the firstchoux into thecaramelandstickitslightlyontheinsideofthebottomlayer,between2choux.Thecaramelwillsetalmostinstantly.Diphalfofthesideofthesecondchouxandstickittothebottomlayerandthefirstchouxfromthesecondlayer.Repeatthisstepwithasmanychouxasneededtocompletethesecondlayer.
10.Repeatstep9untilthecroquemboucheiscomplete.
11.Decoratewithsugaredalmondsdippedinthecaramel.
CHEF’SADVICE
Thecroquembouchewillnotkeepformorethanhalfadayinthefridge.Afterthistime,thecaramelwillstarttomeltandweakenthestructure,andthechouxwillbecomesoggy.
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Saint-Honoréchouxcake
SAINT-HONORÉ
ThiscakeisnamedafterafamousstreetinParis:leFaubourgSaint-Honoré.AChiboustcreamisthetraditionalfillingforthecakebutaChantillycreamcanbeusedinstead.Serves10/Preparationtime:2–3hours/Restingtimeinthefridge:2½+2hoursBakingtime:15
minutesat200°C/400°F/GasMark6+20minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3todryout/Youwillneed2non-stickbakingtrays
INGREDIENTS
Forthepastries
250gpuffpastry(seepage12)
(Or250gsweetshortcrustpastry,page6)
350gchouxpastry
1beatenegg,toglaze
Forthechouxfilling
450gcrèmepâtissière(seepage28)
Forthecaramel(seepage126)
75mlwater
250gcastersugar
FortheFrenchmeringue(seepage36)
3eggwhites(120g)
50gcastersugar
FortheChiboustcream
6smallgelatineleaves(9g)
450ghotcrèmepâtissière(seepage26)
150gFrenchmeringue(seepage36)
1.Make the puff pastry (see page 12) or sweet shortcrust pastry (see page 6), and thecrèmepâtissière (seepage28) for the choux fillingandplace them in the fridge.Thesestepscanbedonethedaybefore.
2.Makethechouxpastryandfillapipingbagfittedwithamedium-sizenozzle.
3.Rolloutthepastrybaseina20cmcircle,3mmthick,andplaceitonabakingtray.Prickitwithafork.Pipearingofchouxpastryallthewayaroundthepastrybase,0.5cmfrom
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theside.
4. On a non-stick baking tray, pipe 25 small choux (2cm), in staggered rows, leavingenoughspacebetweenthemtospread.Brushwithbeatenegg.
5.Bake the Saint-Honoré base and the individual choux togetherwith a ramekin filledwithboilingwater at thebottomof theoven.Remove the choux10minutesbefore thepastrybaseandcoolonawirerack.
6. In a large bowl,whisk the crème pâtissière and fill a piping bag fittedwith a smallround nozzle.With a knife tip,make a hole at the bottom of each choux and fill withcrèmepâtissière.
7.Makea clear caramel.Dip the topsof8 choux into the caramel and set themupsidedownonatraylinedwithbakingpaper.Dipthetopsof8morechouxinthecaramelandthen in thenibbed sugar and set on thebakingpaper.Dip thebottomof each choux incaramelandplacethemonthecake,alternatingthecaramelizedchouxandnibbedsugar-coatedchoux.
8.TomakethecrèmepâtissièrefortheChiboustcream,soakthegelatineleavesincoldwaterfor10minutes.Makethecrèmepâtissièreandpassitthroughaveryfinesieveintoalargebowl.Whiskinthepressedgelatineleaves.Coveritwithclingfilmincontactwiththecreamandkeepitwarmoverabain-marieat65°C(seepage24).
9.Make a Frenchmeringue.Whisk the egg whites using an electric mixer at mediumspeed.Addthecastersugarattheendtofirmthemeringue.
10. To make the Chiboust cream, whisk the warm crème pâtissière and combine theFrenchmeringue,usingawhisk,in3or4additions.Usewhileit’sstillwarm.
11. Fill a piping bag fittedwith a Saint-Honoré nozzlewith themeringuemixture anddecorate the cake base. (Or make some quenelles by making oval-shape balls using 2tablespoonsinoppositedirections.)Setinthefridgefor2hours.
CHEF’SADVICE
The French meringue is made from raw egg whites, which give the Saint-Honoré itsuniquetasteandtexture.Thereforethecakeisfragile;itshouldbekeptinthefridgeandeatenwithinaday.
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Pralinechouxcake
PARIS–BREST
ThecircularshapeoftheParis-Brestrepresentsthewheelsofabike.ThiscakeisnamedafterthefamousFrenchbikerace.
Serves10/Preparationtime:20+35minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:1hourBakingtime:20minutesat200°C/400°F/GasMark6+20minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3todryout/Youwillneeda
non-stickbakingtray
INGREDIENTS
40gdicedalmonds
350gchouxpastry(1/2recipeonpage18)
1beatenegg,toglaze
20gicingsugar
FortheParis-Brestcream
375gcrèmepâtissière(seepage28)
140gsoftbutter
90gpralinepaste(readymadeorseerecipepage194)
1.Put thedicedalmonds in abaking tray and toast them in theoven for10minutes at150°C/300°F/GasMark2.Stirthemafter5minutes.
2.Makethechouxpastryfollowingthemethodonpage18uptostep6,andfillapipingbag fitted with a medium-size nozzle. On a non-stick baking tray, place a 16cm bowlturnedupsidedown(orsomethingsimilar).Pipe2ringsofchouxpastrynexttoeachotherallthewayroundthebowl,withouttouchingit.Removethebowlandaddafinalringofchouxpastryon the topof theother two rings.Bakewitha ramekin filledwithboilingwater at the bottom of the oven without opening the oven door during cooking or thechouxcakewillcollapse.Coolonawirerack.
3.Makethecrèmepâtissièrefollowingthemethodonpage28,andcoolinthefridgefor1
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hour.ItwillbeusedatroomtemperaturetomaketheParis-Brestcream.
4.BrushthecoldParis-Brestchouxshellwithbeateneggandsprinkleoversometoasteddicedalmonds.Flashitintheovenfor2minutesat150°C/300°F/GasMark2.Coolonawirerack.
5.Whisk the crème pâtissière in a large bowl and check its temperature. It should bebetween20-25°C. If it’s too cold, leave it at room temperature for 30minutesor put itbackinthefridgefor15extraminutesifit’stoowarm.
6.Usinganelectricmixer fittedwithawhisk, slowlywork the softbutter thenadd thepraline paste. Finally, add the crème pâtissière and gradually turn the speed up toincorporatesomeairintothecream.Fillapipingbagfittedwithalargeflutednozzle.
7.Cut theParis-Brest chouxbase inhalf sideways, fill itwith thecreamandput its lidbackon.Keep in thefridgeand takeout30minutesbeforeserving.Sprinklewith icingsugar.
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CHAPTER6
Risingdoughs
LESPÂTESLEVÉES
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Howtorollupcroissants
1.Rollouthalfofthedoughintoalongrectangle,4mmthickand16cmwide.
2. Remove any excess flour from both sides and, if the dough is sticking to the worksurface,sprinkleitwithalittleflour.Cutthedoughintotriangleswithan8cmbaseusingalargeknife.
3.Laythetriangleswiththeirbasestowardsyouandbrushthetopswithbeatenegg.
4.Roll up each triangle tight from the base to the top and transfer to a tray linedwithbakingpaper.Placethesealedjoinsunderneaththecroissants.
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Howtorollupalmondcroissants
1.Rollouthalfthedoughintoalongrectangle,4mmthickand16cmwide.
2.Removeanyexcessflouronbothsidesandifthedoughisstickingtotheworksurface,sprinkle itwith little flour.Cut thedoughonto triangleswithan8cmbaseusinga largeknife(seesteps1and2onpage137).
3.Laythetriangleswiththeirbasestowardsyouandbrushthetopswithbeatenegg.Placebatonsofmarzipan(6×0.5cm)atthebaseofeachtriangle.
4.Rollupeach triangle tight fromthebase to the top,wrappingup themarzipan in themiddle, and transfer them to a tray lined with baking paper. Place the sealed joinsunderneaththealmondcroissants.
5.Glazeafterbakingwithwhitefondant:meltinthemicrowavefor1minuteatmediumpower.Oralternativelywithwhiteicing:meltinthemicrowavefor1minuteatmediumpower andmixwith a little hotwater. Sprinklewith toasted flaked almonds and set atroomtemperature.
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Howtorolluppainsauchocolat
1.Rollouthalfthedoughintoalongrectangle,4mmthickand16cmwide.
2.Removeanyexcessflouronbothsidesand,ifthedoughisstickingtotheworksurface,sprinkleitwithalittlebitofflour.Place2linesofchocolatedropsorbatonsonthetopandthebottomoftherectangle,leavinga1cmgaponeachside.
3.Roll up thedoughover the chocolate starting from thebottomof the rectangle.Andrepeatthisstepwiththetopoftherectangle.
4.Brush themiddle of the doughwith beaten egg, andkeep rollingup the top and thebottomuntilitreachesthemiddle.
5.Turnover thedough and cut intopains au chocolat (roughly every7cm lengthways)withalargeknife.Transferthemtoatraylinedwithbakingpaper.
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Howtorolluppainsauxraisins
1.Rollouthalfofthedoughintoasquare,4mmthick.Spreadoverathinlayerofcrèmepâtissière,leavinga3cmgapatthetopofthedough.
2.Sprinklethedrainedmaceratedraisinsoverthecrèmepâtissière.
3.Brush the3cmgapofdoughwithbeateneggandrollup thedoughstartingfromthebasetothetop.
4.Cut thepainsauxraisins2–3cmthickand transfer themon theirsides toa tray linedwithbakingpaper.
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Croissants,almondcroissants,painsauchocolatandpainsauxraisins
Thisrecipewillexplaintoyouhowtomakehomemadepastries–andhowtoorganizeyourselftohavethemreadyfirstthinginthemorningforbreakfast.
Makesapproximately30/Preparationtime:45+20minutesProvingtimeforthefreshpastries:1–1½hours/Provingtimeforthefrozenpastries:overnightBakingtime:10–12minutesat180°C/350°F/Gas
Mark4/Youwillneedanon-stickbakingtray
INGREDIENTS
1.1kgcroissantdough(seepage14)
1beatenegg,toglaze
Forthealmondcroissants
50gmarzipan(cutinbatons6×0.5cm)
50gtoastedflakedalmonds(10minutesat150°C/300°F/GasMark2)
100gwhitefondantformillefeuille(or100gwhiteicing+15mlboilingwater)
Forthepainsauchocolat
150gdarkchocolatedropsorbatons
Forthepainsauxraisins
450gcrèmepâtissière(seepage28)
100graisinssoakedfor1hourin50mldarkrumand50mlboilingwater
1.Makethecroissantdoughfollowingthemethodonpage14.
2.Sprinklesomeflouronthedoughandontheworksurface.Dividethecroissantdoughinto2equalpiecesandput1inthefridge.
3.Makethecroissantsfollowingthemethodsonpages14and136,almondcroissants(seepage138),painsauxchocolat(seepage140)and/orpainsauxraisins(seepage142).
4.Removethesecondpieceofdoughfromthefridgeandrepeatstep3touseupallthedough.Freezethetrayofpastriesforlateruse.
5.Theeveningbefore, removeasmanypastriesasyouneedfromthefreezerandplacetheminstaggeredrowsonanon-stickbakingtray,6cmapart,andproveovernightatroomtemperature(about20°C).Thefollowingmorning,brushthemwithbeateneggandbakefor10–12minutesat180°C/350°F/GasMark4.Ifthepastrieshavenotquiterisenenough,start the baking in a cold oven set at 180°C/350°F/Gas Mark 4 and bake for 15–20minutes.
GOODTOKNOW
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Theyeastisfragileandwilldieiftherawpastriesstayinthefreezerfortoolong.Iwouldadviseusingthefrozenpastrieswithinamonth.
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Parisianbrioches
BRIOCHESPARISIENNES
Thesebriochesareonlyslightlysweet.Theyaretraditionallyeatenforbreakfastbuttheycouldalsobeservedtoastedasastarterwithfoiegrasandanicesaladegourmande.
Makes12/Preparationtime:20+20minutes/Provingtime:2–3hoursatroomtemperature(orovernightinthefridge)+1–2hoursforthebrioches/Restingtimeinthefridge:11/2hours(ifprovedatroom
temperature)+15minutes/Bakingtime:10–15minutesat190°C/375°F/GasMark5/Youwillneed12×9cmindiameterbriochemoulds
INGREDIENTS
600gbriochemix(seepage20)
1beatenegg,toglaze
1.Makethebriochedough,proveitfor2–3hoursatroomtemperatureandrestitfor1½hoursinthefridge.Orproveandrestitovernightinthefridge.
2.Linethebriochemouldswithbutterandflour.Turnthemoverandknockthemagainsttheworksurfacetoremovetheexcessflour.
3. Remove the brioche dough from the fridge, turn it over on a lightly floured worksurfaceusingascraper,andpressthefermentationgasoutusingthepalmsofyourhandswithoutworkingthedough.
4.Cut the dough into 12 individual pieces of 50g.Roll them into balls using theworksurfaceandthepalmsofyourhands.Placetheminthefridgefor15minutes.
5. Stretch out each ball on a work surface using your hand at a 45-degree angle. Thesmallersidewillbeusedtoformtheheadofthebrioche.Thenshapethebriocheusingthesideofyourhand likeasaw,anddivideeachball into2smallerballsofdifferent sizesconnectedbyapieceofdoughinbetween:thesmallestquarterofthedoughwillbeusedfortheheadofthebrioche,andtheremainingthree-quarterswillformthebody.
6.Put thebrioches in theirmoulds,holding themby theirsmallestend.Centre theheadandpushitintothelargestpartofthebriocheusingyourindexfingers.
7.Prove thebrioches inawarmplaceuntil theydouble in size (approx1–2hours)andbrushthemwithbeatenegg.
8.Bakethebriochesuntilgoldenbrownandcoolonawirerack.
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Pinkpralinebrioche
BRIOCHEAUXPRALINESROSES
Pinkpralinesarecaramel-coatedalmonds.Whilethebriocheisbaking,thepinksugarwillmeltandformagooeysyrup.Don’tbeafraidtousemorethan75gofpinkpralines–it’s
everyonefavouritepart.Makes1largebrioche/Preparationtime:20+15minutes/Provingtime:2–3hoursatroomtemperature(orovernightinthefridge)+1–2hoursforthebrioche/Restingtimeinthefridge:1½hours(ifprovedatroomtemperature)/Bakingtime:25–30minutesat180°C/350°F/GasMark4Youwillneedanon-stick
bakingtray
INGREDIENTS
600gbriochemix(seepage20)
75gpinkpralines
1beatenegg,toglaze
1.Make thebriochedough,prove it for4hoursat room temperatureand rest it for1½hoursinthefridge.Orproveandrestitovernightinthefridge.
2.Crushthepinkpralinesintosmallpiecesusingalargeknifeandachoppingboard,orafoodprocessor.
3. Remove the brioche dough from the fridge, turn it over on a lightly floured worksurfaceusingascraper,andpressthefermentationgasoutwiththepalmsofyourhandswithoutworkingthedough.
4.Shapeitintoarectangle(20×30cm)andcutitlengthwaysinto3equalparts.
5.Witharollingpin,rollouteachpieceofbriocheinwidthandsprinklealineofchoppedpinkpralineacrossitslength,2cmfromthebase.Wrapthedougharoundthepinkpralinesandfinishbyrollingituptoformabaguette.Repeatthisstepwiththe2otherparts.
6.Assemblethe3partsofbriocheonanon-stickbakingtray.Hidethejoinsunderneathandlaythemsidebyside.Formaplaitandputsomechoppedpralinesintheplait’sholes.
7.Provethebriocheinawarmplaceuntilitdoublesinsize,thenbrushitwithbeatenegg.
8.Bakethebriocheuntilevenlygoldenbrownandcoolonawirerack.
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ChocolateViennabreads
PAINSVIENNOISAUCHOCOLAT
Deliciousservedwithahotchocolateforbreakfastorasanafternoonsnack,theFrenchwayistodipthechocolateViennabreadinthehotchocolateuntilitbecomesall
chocolaty.Childrenofallageslovethem.Makes4×125gloafs/Preparationtime:20+15minutes/Provingtime:2–3hoursatroomtemperature(orovernightinthefridge)+1–2hoursfortheViennabreads/Restingtime:1½hoursinthefridge(ifprovedatroomtemperature)/Bakingtime:12–15minutesat180°C350°F/GasMark4/Youwillneedanon-stick
bakingtray
INGREDIENTS
8gfreshyeast
120mlsemi-skimmedorfullfatmilk,atroomtemperature
250gwhitebreadflour(T55)
5gsalt
25gcastersugar
1mediumegg
30gsoftbutter,diced
75gdarkchocolatedrops
1beatenegg,toglaze
1.MaketheViennabreaddoughfollowingthebriochemethodonpage20,incorporatingthechocolatedropsattheend.Proveitfor2–3hoursatroomtemperatureuntilthedoughdoublesinsizeandrestitfor1½hoursinthefridge,orproveandrestitovernightinthefridge.
2.Removethedoughfromthefridge,turnitoveronalightlyflouredworksurfaceusingascraper,andpressthefermentationgasoutwiththepalmofyourhandswithoutworkingthedough.
3.Withyourhands, shape it into a rectangle(20×30cm) and cut itwith aknife into4equalpartsacrossitswidth.
4.Witharollingpin,rollouteachpieceofdoughinwidth.Fold1cmofthebaseinsidethedoughandpressgentlywithyourfingertips toseal.Repeat thisstepwiththetopendofthedough.Repeatthesestepsuntilthebottompartmeetsthetoppart.Jointhemtogetherusingyourfingertipsandrollthedoughoverusingthepalmsofyourhandstoformitintoabaguetteshape.Turnitoverontoanon-stickbakingtray.Repeatthesestepswiththe3other pieces. Place the baguettes, 5cm apart, on the baking tray, hiding the joins
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underneath.
5.Cutthetopsoffthebaguettesusingthetipofaverysharpknife.
6.ProvethechocolateViennabreadsinawarmplaceuntiltheydoubleinsize(1–2hours)andbrushthemwithbeateneggbeforebakinguntilbrown.Coolonawirerack.
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Kugelhopf
KOUGLOF
ThisAlsatianbriocheistraditionallyeatenforfamilySundaybreakfasts.IfyoudonotownaKugelhopfmould,youcouldusealargecaketinor2smallones,andsprinklethe
flakedalmondsatthebottom.Thiswillnotaffectitsamazingtaste.Makes1largeKugelhopf/Preparationtime:20minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:overnightProvingtime:2–3hoursinawarmplace/Bakingtime:30–40minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3Youwillneeda
22×11cmsiliconemould
INGREDIENTS
20gfreshyeast
210mlfullfatorsemi-skimmedmilk,atroomtemperature
500gwhitebreadflour
60gcastersugar
10gsalt
2mediumeggs
15mldarkrum
200gsoftbutter,diced
120gsultanas
Forthetopping
20gsoftbutter
10gflakedalmonds
20gicingsugar
Seethebriochemethodonpage20
1.Dissolvethefreshyeastinthemilk.
2.Putthewhitebreadflour,castersugar,salt,eggsanddarkruminthemixingbowl.Addthe dissolved fresh yeast andwork themixwith a dough hook for 10minutes at slowspeed.
3.Add the soft butter andwork the dough until it has an even consistency and comesunstuckfromthesurfaceofthebowl.Thenaddthesultanas.
4.Withapieceofkitchenpaper,spreadoutalittlebitofoil(oliveorvegetable)inalargebowl. Place theKugelhopf dough in itsmiddle and cover the bowlwith awet cloth orclingfilm.Restovernight(12hours)inthefridge.
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5.Thefollowingday,grease themouldwithsoftbutterandplace theflakedalmondsatthebottom.
6.Turnoverthedoughonaflouredworksurfaceandremovethefermentationgasusingthe palm of your hands. Shape it into a circle and make a hole in its middle using 2fingertips.Fillthemouldwiththedoughandproveinawarmplaceforabout2hoursuntilthedoughreachesthesurface.Bakeituntilgoldenbrown(onthetopandsides)andturnitoverontoawireracktocool.Sprinklewithicingsugarbeforeserving.
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Saint-Tropeztart
TARTETROPÉZIENNE
BorninBrigitteBardot’stown,theSaint-TropeztartisnowfamouseverywhereinFrance.TheGrandMarniersyrupgivesititsuniquetaste–enjoyitwithafreshcitrussydrink.Serves8/Preparationtime:20minutes+1¼hoursRestingtime:overnightinthefridge/Provingtime:1½–2hours/Bakingtime:20–25minutesat180°C/350°F/GasMark4/Youwillneeda24cmroundcake
mould
INGREDIENTS
300gofbriochedough(½recipeonpage20)
1beatenegg,toglaze
Forthetopping(optional)
15gsoftbutter
20gcastersugar
30gplainflour
FortheSaint-Tropezcream
200gcrèmepâtissière(seepage28)
200gbuttercream(seepage32)
Forthesyrup
1tablespoonboilingwater
2tablespoonscastersugar
3tablespoonsGrandMarnier
1.Thebriochemixandcrèmepâtissièrecanbemade thedaybefore.Make thebriochemixfollowingthemethodonpage20,andstoreitinthefridgeovernight.
2.Makethecrèmepâtissièrefollowingthemethodonpage28andplaceinthefridge.
3.Ontheday,linethemouldwithbutterandflour.Turnitoverandknockitagainsttheworksurfacetoremoveanyexcessflour.
4.Removethebriochefromthefridge, turnitoutona lightlyflouredworksurfaceandrollitouttothesizeofthemould.Removetheexcessflourandplacethebriocheinthemould.Proveitatroomtemperatureuntilitdoublesinsizeandbrushitwithbeatenegg.
5.Forthetopping(ifused),putthesoftbutter,castersugarandflourinabowlandmixwithyourfingertipsuntilcrumbly.Sprinkleitoverthetopoftheglazedbrioche.Bakeit
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untilbrownandcoolonawirerack.
6. To make the Saint-Tropez cream, make the buttercream and keep it at roomtemperature.Inabowl,work200gofcrèmepâtissièrewithawhiskandincorporate200gofthebuttercream.
7.Forthesyrup,mixtheboilingwaterwiththecastersugar,thenaddtheGrandMarnier.Allow10minutesforthesugartodissolve.
8.Cutthebriocheinhalfwidthways.Soakthebottompartofthebriocheinsyrupusingapastrybrush.SpreadtheSaint-Tropezcreamoverthecutsideandputthelidbackon.
GOODTOKNOW
Icingsugarcanbeusedinsteadofthetopping(orinadditiontothetopping)andsprinkledonthetopoftheSaint-Tropeztartjustbeforeserving.
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Aveyronprunetart
TARTEAUXPRUNEAUXAVEYRONNAISE
ThisisthetraditionaldessertfromAveyron,thepartofFrancewhereIcomefrom.Athome,ItendtouseanAubracteabag,whichisaninfusionoflocalplants,insteadofanEnglishbreakfastteabag.Itdoesn’tmakeabigdifference,however,it’sjustthetradition.Serves10(24cmtart)/Preparationtime:20+15minutes/Provingtime:2hoursatroomtemperature+1hourinthefridge/Bakingtime:35–45minutesat180°C/350°F/GasMark4Youwillneeda24cmtarttin
INGREDIENTS
Forthefouacedough
8gfreshyeast
75mlfullfatorsemi-skimmedmilk
250gwhitebreadflour(T55)
4gsalt
85gcastersugar
1mediumegg
1teaspoonorange-flowerwater
40gsoftbutter,diced
1beatenegg,toglaze
Fortheprunecompote
500gstoneddriedAgenprunes
50gcastersugar
2pinchesofgroundcinnamon
1teaspoonvanillaextract
1Englishbreakfastteabag
1tablespoondarkrum
1.Makethefouacedoughfollowingthebriochemethodonpage20.Provefor2hoursinawarmplace,thenputinthefridgefor1hour.Orrestovernightinthefridge.
2.Make the prune compote: put the prunes, caster sugar, ground cinnamon and vanillaextractinalargepanandcoverwithwater.Simmerfor10minutes,stirringoccasionally.Put the tea bag in the pan and infuse for 15 minutes. Drain the prunes and keep thecookingjuicetoadjusttheconsistencyofthecompote.Blitzthepruneswiththedarkrum
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inafoodprocessor,graduallyaddingalittleprunecookingjuicetolightenthemix.Coolfor1houratroomtemperature.
3.Linethetarttin(seepage42)andcutawaytheexcesspastrywithaknife.Spreadouttheprunecompoteandmakealatticepatternontopwiththeleftoverdough.
4.Brushthedoughwiththebeateneggandbakethetartfor25minutes.Coveritwithfoiltopreventitfromburningandcontinuetobakeforanother10–20minutes.Coolinthetin.
CHEF’SADVICE
ServetheAveyronprunetartwithahomemadecrèmeanglaise(seepage26).
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Cherryandcinnamonbriochetart
TARTEBRIOCHÉEAUXCERISES
Thebriochetartdoughiswetterthanabriochedoughandalittletrickiertorollout,butitworksverywellwithjuicyfruitslikecherries.Whenthedoughrisesintheoven,itwill
absorbthejuicereleasedbythecherriesduringbaking.Serves12(28cmtart)/Preparationtime:20+20minutes/Provingtime:2–3hoursatroomtemperature(orovernightinthefridge)/Restingtime:1½hoursinthefridge(ifprovedatroomtemperature)/Baking
time:40–45minutesat180°C/350°F/GasMark4Youwillneeda28cmtarttin
INGREDIENTS
Forthebriochetartdough
10gfreshyeast
45mlmilk,atroomtemperature
220gwhitebreadflour(T55)
4gsalt
30gcastersugar
3smalleggs(150g)
80gsoftbutter,diced
Forthegarnish
100gdemerarasugar
½teaspoongroundcinnamon
600gstonedblackcherries
Toserve
Vanillaorcinnamonicecream
1.Makethebriochetartdoughfollowingthemethodonpage20.Provefor2-3hoursatroomtemperature,thenputinthefridgefor1½hours.Orrestovernightinthefridge.
2.Mixthedemerarasugarwiththegroundcinnamon.
3.Turnthedoughoutontoaflouredworksurface.Thebriochetartisalwaysalittlebitsticky. Itneeds tobe rolledout straight from the fridgewithmore flour thanused foraclassicpastry.Removetheexcessflourwithabrushoryourfingertipsandlinethetarttin(seepage42).Cutawaytheexcessdoughwithaknife.
4.Sprinkleathirdofthecinnamonsugaronthepastrybase,garnishwiththestonedblackcherriesandsprinkleanotherthirdofcinnamonsugaroverthefruit.
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5. Bake for 25 minutes at 180°C/350°F/GasMark 4, then cover the tart with foil andcontinuetobakeforanother20–25minutesuntil.thepastrybaseisevenlygoldenbrown.Removethefoilandcoolinthemould.
6.Sprinklewiththelastthirdofcinnamonsugarandservewithvanillaorcinnamonicecream.
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Rumbabawithvanillawhippedcream
BABAAURHUM,CRÈMEFOUETTÉEÀLAVANILLE
Myrumbabaisanodtomygrandmother.Itisinfactasavarinandnotatruebaba,butthat’swhatshewouldhavecalledit.
Serves10/Preparationtime:20+15minutes/Provingtime:1–1½hoursinawarmplaceBakingtime:25–30minutesat180°C/350°F/GasMark4/Youwillneeda20cmsavarinmould
INGREDIENTS
500gsavarindough(page22)
Fortherumsyrup
500mlwater
250gcastersugar
1vanillapod(openedandscraped)
50–80mldarkrum,totaste
Forthegarnish
100gapricotjam
1tablespoonwater
1smallripepineapple
Forthevanillawhippedcream
280mlfreshdoublecream
20gcastersugar
seedsof1vanillapod
1.Makethebabafollowingthesavarinmethodonpage22.
2.Tomakethesyrup,bringthewater,castersugarandvanillaseedsandpodtotheboil.Infusethevanillafor20minutes,passitthroughasievethenaddthedarkrum,accordingtoyourtaste.
3. Place the baba on a griddle set over a high-sided large dish.Warmup the syrup (toabout60°C)andpouritoverthebabausingaladle.Repeatthisstepseveraltimesuntilthebabaiscompletelysoakedinrumsyrup.
4.Warmuptheapricot jamwithatablespoonofwaterandglazethebabawithapastrybrush.Movethebabacarefullyontoaservingtray.
5.Topandtailthepineapple,andcutoffitsskinusingalargeserratedknife.Makeafruit
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saladwiththechoppedpineappleand4tablespoonsofleftoverrumsyrupandplaceinsidethebaba.
6.Beforeserving,makethevanillawhippedcreamfollowingtheChantillycreammethodonpage34andplaceitonthetopofthebaba,overthepineapplesalad.
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Kirschsavarinswithcherrycompote
SAVARINSAUKIRSCH,COMPOTÉEDECERISES
Kirschsavarinsarelesscommonthantherumonesbuttheyarewellworthtasting.Kirschisaliqueurmadefromcherriesanditworksmarvellouslywithcherrycompote.
Makes8/Preparationtime:20+15minutes/Provingtime:30minutes–1hourinawarmplaceBakingtime:10–12minutesat200°C/400°F/GasMark6/Youwillneed8×7cmsavarintins
INGREDIENTS
250gsavarindough(½recipeonpage22)
Forthekirschsyrup
500mlwater
250gcastersugar
1orangezest
1lemonzest
1vanillapod(openedandscraped)
40–60mlkirsch,totaste
Forthecherrycompote
160gcastersugar
15gcornflour
350gcherrypuréeor350mlmixedredberryjuiceorsmoothie
350mlredwine
½cinnamonstick
zestandjuiceof1lemon
zestandjuiceof1orange
1kgofblackcherries,stoned
Fortheglaze
100gapricotjam
1tablespoonwater
Toserve
300mlcrèmefraîcheorvanillawhippedcream
1.Maketheindividualsavarinsfollowingthemethodonpage22.
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2. For the cherry compote, mix the cornflour with the caster sugar, then put all theingredients but the fresh cherries in a pan and bring to the boil. Leave to infuse for 5minutesoff theheat, thenpass it throughavery finesieve.Bring the liquidback to theboil with the cherries and cook it gently for 5 minutes. Cool in the pan at roomtemperaturewithapieceofgreaseproofpaperorclingfilmincontact(tostopthetopofthecherriesdryingout).
3.Forthekirschsyrup,bringthewater,castersugar,orangezest,lemonzestandvanillaseedsandpod to theboil. Infuse thezests andvanilla for20minutes,pass it throughasievethenaddthekirsch,accordingtoyourtaste.
4.Placetheindividualsavarinsupsidedowninahigh-sideddishandpouroverthesyrup.Whenthey’redoubledinsize,turnthembackupfor15moreminutes.Transferthemtoagriddletoremovetheexcesssyrup.
5.Warmuptheapricotjamwithatablespoonofwaterandusetoglazethesavarinswithapastrybrush.
6.Servethesavarinswiththewarmcherrycompoteandageneroustablespoonofcrèmefraîcheorvanillawhippedcream(seepage156).
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CHAPTER7
Flans,creamsandeggbatters
LESFLANS,CRÈMESETDESSERTSAUXŒUFS
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Cherryclafoutis
CLAFOUTISAUXCERISES
ThistraditionaldessertfromLimousin(inthecentreofFrance)isreallypopularinFrance.It’ssosimpletomake,youdon’tevenhavetoremovethecherrystones.Theyactuallyaddsomeextraflavourtotheclafoutismix.Butdon’tforgettowarnyourguestsaboutthem!Serves8/Preparationtime:15minutes/Bakingtime:25–35minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3You
willneeda24cmbakingdish
INGREDIENTS
2mediumeggs
4eggyolks
150gcastersugar
20gplainflour
375mlfreshdoublecream
75mlfullfatorsemi-skimmedmilk
1vanillapod(openedandscraped)or1teaspoonvanillaextract
Forthegarnish
15gbutter,forgreasing
500gblackcherries
20gicingsugar
1.Inalargebowl,whisktogethertheeggs,yolksandcastersugar,thenaddtheplainflour.
2.Inapan,bringthecream,milkandthevanillaseedsandpodtotheboil.Pouritslowlyon the topof the eggmix,whiskingcontinuously asyoudo.Pass the clafoutismixturethroughaveryfinesieveandskimthesurfacewithaladle.
3.Greasethebakingdishwithbutterandputinthecherries.
4.Pourtheclafoutismixoverthecherriesandbakeituntilthemixissetandgoldenonthetop.Coolinthedishatroomtemperature.
5.Serveslightlywarmoratroomtemperaturedustedwithicingsugar.
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Mygrandmother’spearclafoutis
CLAFOUTISAUXPOIRESDEMAMIE
ThisisoneofthefirstfamilyrecipesthatIlearnt.It’sverysimpleanddelicious,andcanbemadewithanykindoffruit.Whenyoudoit,remembertoscrapetheinsideofthe
eggshellswithyourindexfinger,likemygrandmotherusedtodo.Serves8/Preparationtime:20minutes/Bakingtime:25–35minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3You
willneeda24cmbakingdish
INGREDIENTS
500mlsemi-skimmedorfullfatmilk
50gbutter
60gplainflour
75gcastersugar
3mediumeggs
Forthegarnish
15gbutter,forgreasing
4ripeConferencepears
20gicingsugar
1.Bringthemilkandbuttertotheboil.Puttheflourandcastersugarinabowlandpourthemilkandbuttermixslowlyoverthetop,whiskingallthetime.Addtheeggs,thenpassitthroughaveryfinesieveandskimitwithaladle.
2.Greasethedishwithbutter.
3. Peel, cut in half and core the pears. Slice them into 0.5–1cm pieces and place theminsidetheclafoutisdish.
4.Pourtheclafoutismixovertheslicedpearsandbakeuntilsetandgoldenbrownontop.Coolinthedishatroomtemperature.
5.Serveslightlywarmoratroomtemperature,dustedwithicingsugar.
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WestIndianflan
FLANANTILLAIS
Afterbaking,theWestIndianflanisdividedinto3layers:thedesiccatedcoconutfloatsonthetop,formingasponge,arichandcreamyflanliesinthemiddleandarunnycaramel
saucesitsatthebottomofthedish.Serves8/Preparationtime:20minutes/Bakingtime:50minutes–1hourat140°C/275°F/GasMark1in
abain-marie(seepage24)/Youwillneeda24cmbakingdish
INGREDIENTS
Forthecaramel
150gcastersugar
50+25mlwater
Fortheflanfilling
1smallcanofcondensedmilk(400g)
380mlsemi-skimmedorfullfatmilk
3mediumeggs,separated
100gdesiccatedcoconut
2tablespoonsdarkrum
1.Makeacaramel(170°C)followingthemethodonpage126,then,offtheheatandverycarefully,add25mlofwater.Thiswillhelp thecaramel tomeltduringbaking.Pour thecaramelvevenlyoverthebottomofthebakingdishandleaveittoset.
2. In a large bowl, mix the condensed milk with the egg yolks, then add the milk,desiccatedcoconutanddarkrum.
3. In a electricmixer onmedium speed,whisk the eggwhites to a peak (seepage38).Incorporateathirdoftheeggwhiteswiththeflanfilling,followedbythelasttwo-thirdswithoutoverworking it,makingacircularmovement fromthebottomupwardswith thespatulainonehand,givingaquarterturntothebowlwiththeother.Keepdoingthisuntilthemixiscombined.
4.Pourtheflanfillinginthedish,overthesetcaramel.Bakeitinabain-marie(seepage24)byplacingtheflandishintheoveninsidealargerhigh-sidedtrayfilledwith3cmofboilingwater.Checkafter45minutesbygentlyshakingtheflandish.Theflaniscookedwhenthecoconutspongeonthetopoftheflanisset.Coolatroomtemperature.
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Frenchtoast
PAINSPERDUS
Delicious,fastandcheap,thisistheperfectcomfortfood,orserveitasaposhbreakfastforallthefamily.StalebreadiscommonlyusedinFranceinsteadofthebrioche:thereare
alwayssomepiecesofleftoverbaguettewhichneedtobeusedup!Serves4/Preparationtime:20minutes/Cookingtime:5minutesYouwillneedamedium-sizefrying
pan
INGREDIENTS
6mediumeggs
60gcastersugar
1vanillapod(openedandscraped)or1teaspoonvanillaextract
150mlsemi-skimmedorfullfatmilk
75gfreshdoublecream
8thickslicesofbrioche,cutintohalves
30gbutter
Forthetopping
icingsugar,todust
strawberryjamandfreshstrawberriestoserve
1. In a bowl, whisk the eggs with the caster sugar and the vanilla (seeds and pod orextract),thenaddthemilkandcreamtomakeabatter.
2.Place thebriochehalves flat in thedishandpourover thebatter throughavery finesieve.Soakthebriocheforafewminutesuntilthebattersoaksintoit,thenturnthemover.
3.Meltaknobofbutterinafryingpan.Removethebriochecarefullyfromthedish,oneata time,andhold itbetweenyour fingers fora fewseconds todrain theexcessbutter.Cookthematamediumheat inbatchesuntil theyaregoldenbrown.Turnthemover tofinishoffthecooking.
4. Sprinkle the French toastwith icing sugar and servewarmwith strawberry jam andfreshstrawberries.
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Howtomakeapancakemix
1.Inalargebowl,puttheplainflour,castersugarandsalt.
2.Makeawellinitsmiddleandaddtheeggs.
3.Whisktheeggsinthewellandaddasmallquantityofmilk.
4.Startwhiskingfromthemiddleofthewellandgraduallyincorporatesomeflour.
5.Keepwhiskingandincorporatealternatelysomeflourfromthesideof thewellandalittlemoremilk inorder tomakea thickpaste.Thismethodwillavoid theformationoflumps.
6.When the flour is completelymixed, add the rest of themilk followed by the freshdoublecream.
7.Addthehotmeltedbutterandblitzwithahandblender.
8.Rest in the fridge for30minutesbeforecooking.Whisk for1minutebeforeuseandcheckitsconsistency.Addanextra30–50mlofmilkifthemixturehasbecomethicker.
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OrangeandGrandMarnierpancakes
CRÊPESSUZETTE
Usually,theGrandMarnierispouredoverthepancakeattheendoftherecipe,inaveryhotpan,andflambéedrightawayinfrontoftheguests.Butthisstageisnotnecessaryif
youdon’tfeelconfident.Serves4/Preparationtime:15minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:30minutes(orovernightwithoutthecastersugar)/Cookingtime:20minutes(1–2minuteseachpancake)+5minutesforthecaramel/Youwill
needa24cmpancakepanorfryingpan
INGREDIENTS
Forthepancakemix
150gplainflour
20gcastersugar
½teaspoonsalt
2mediumeggs
320mlfullfatmilk
20mlfreshdoublecream
40gmeltedbutter
30gbutter,forgreasing
Fortheorangecaramel
60gcastersugar
20gbutter
Thejuiceof2oranges
40mlGrandMarnier
1.Makethepancakemixfollowingthemethodonpage174.
2.Greasethepancakepanwithasmallpieceofbutterandremovetheexcesswithsomekitchenpaper.Pourasmall ladleofmixinto thehotpanandspreaditoutbytiltingthepan.Cookthepancakefor30secondsto1minuteuntilitstartstocolourandturnitoverusingaspatula.
3. Grease the pan using the same kitchen paper and eventually somemore butter, andfinishoffcookingtherestofthepancakemix.Pilethemontopofeachothertokeepthemwarm.Foldthepancakesintoquartersandwipethepanclean.
4.Tomaketheorangecaramel,sprinklethecastersugarinthepan,putitoveramedium
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heat and make a dry caramel by melting the caster sugar for a few minutes until itbecomesbrown.TurndowntheheatandstirinthebutterfollowedbytheorangejuiceandtheGrandMarnier.
5.Putthepancakesbackinthepan(4or8atatime,dependingonsize)andreducetheorangecaramelfor1or2minutesbeforeserving.(Alternatively,warmupthepancakesinthemicrowaveandpouroverthereducedorangecaramel.)
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Floatingislands
ŒUFSÀLANEIGE
Traditionally,theeggwhitesarepoachedinthemilkthatwillbeusedtomakethecrèmeanglaise,orbakedinramekinsinabain-marie(seepage24),butthemodernwaynowis
tousethemicrowave.It’ssofastandeasy–justbrilliant!Serves6/Preparationtime:15+15minutes/Cookingtime:5+15minutesCoolingtime:30minutesfor
thecrèmeanglaise
INGREDIENTS
400gcrèmeanglaise(seepage26)
50gflakedalmonds
FortheFrenchmeringue
2eggwhites(80g)
50gcastersugar
1tablespoonvegetableoroliveoil
Forthecaramel
125gcastersugar
40mlwater
1.Makethecrèmeanglaise.
2.Put theflakedalmondsonabakingtrayandtoast themintheovenfor10minutesat150°C/300°F/GasMark2.Stirthemafter5minutes.
3.MakeaFrenchmeringuebywhiskingtheeggwhitestoasoftpeak(seepage38)andgraduallyincorporatethecastersugar.Carryonwhiskinguntilstiffpeaksform.
4.Oil2platesandshapetheFrenchmeringueintoeggformsusing2tablespoons.Make12portions(6oneachplate).Cookthemfor30seconds in themicrowaveatmaximumpower(900W)andcoolatroomtemperature.
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5.Filla largeservingbowlor6individualdisheswiththecrèmeanglaiseandplacethecookedeggwhitesonthetop.
6.Makeacaramel(nottoodark)followingthemethodonpage126andspoonitoverthetopofthefloatingislands.Sprinklewithtoastedflakedalmondsjustbeforeserving.
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EarlGreycrèmebrûlée
CRÈMEBRÛLÉEAUTHÉEARLGREY
TheflavouroftheEarlGreyteaispreservedinacoldinfusionovernight.Thiswillpreventthecrèmebrûléefromtastingtootannicandallowtheblackteaandbergamotto
expresstheirtrueflavours.Serves8/Preparationtime:20minutes/Infusiontimeinthefridge:12hours(overnight)Bakingtime:
50minutes–1hourat110°C/225°F/GasMark¼inabain-marie(seepage24)Coolingtimeinthefridge:4hours/Youwillneed8×8cmramekinsandahigh-sidedbakingtray
INGREDIENTS
300mlsemi-skimmedorfullfatmilk
650mlfreshdoublecream
35glooseEarlGreytealeaves
8eggyolks
110gcastersugar
40gcastersugartocaramelize
1.Thenightbefore,putthemilkandcreaminabowlandstirinthelooseEarlGreytealeaves.Cover thebowlwithclingfilmandplace it in thefridgefor12hours tomakeacoldinfusion.
2.Thefollowingmorning,pass theEarlGreyinfusionthoughadoublemuslinorafinecloth.
3.Inalargebowl,whisktheeggyolkswiththecastersugarfor1minute.Bringthesievedmilk, creamand tea infusion to theboil andpoor it slowlyon the topof theyolks andcastersugar,stirringcontinuously.
4.Passthecrèmebrûléemixthroughaveryfinesieveandskimthesurfaceusingaladleoratablespoon.
5.Place8ramekinsinahigh-sidedbakingtrayandfill themwiththemix.Pour3cmofboilingwaterintothebottomofthetrayandbakethecrèmesbrûléesinastatic(fanturnedoff)oven.Alternatively,clingfilmthebakingtraywithaheat-resistantclingfilmallthewayaroundtomakeitairtightandbaketheminafanoven.
6.After45minutes, shake the traygently, andkeepcheckingevery5minutesuntil thecreamissetlikeajelly,gentlymovinginthemiddle.(Removetheclingfilm).Coolinthetray for15minutes at room temperature thenput thecrèmesbrûlées in the fridge for4hours.
7.Drythetopofthecrèmesbrûléeswithkitchenpaperifneeded,coverthemwithathin
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layerofcastersugarandcaramelizethemusingablowtorch.
CHEF’STOPTIP
ServewithBretonsbiscuits(page238),flakedalmondtuiles(page234)orfingerbiscuits(page242).
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Mymother’scrèmecaramel
CRÈMECARAMELDEMAMAMAN
Crèmecaramelsareveryeasytomake.Mymothermakesthematleastonceamonthandlikestousefreshfarmmilk.Theycanbeeatenstraightfromtheramekinorturnedupside
downonaplate.Serves8/Preparationtime:20minutes/Cookingtime:5minutes/Bakingtime:20–30minutesat
140°C/275°F/GasMark1inabain-marie(seepage24)/Coolingtimeatroomtemperature:3hours/Youwillneed8×8cmramekinsandahighsided-bakingtray
INGREDIENTS
Forthecaramel
150gcastersugar
50+25mlwater
Forthecrèmecaramelfilling
500mlfullfatmilk
1tablespoonvanillaextract
2mediumeggs
65gcastersugar
1.Placethe8ramekinsinahigh-sidedbakingtray.
2.For the caramel,make a slightlydark caramel (170-175°C) following themethodonpage126,thenadd25mlofwaterofftheheattoslowdownthecooking.Thiswillhelpthecarameltomeltduringbaking.Becarefulwhenaddingthewaterasthecaramelwillspit.
3.Pourthecaramelintotheramekinsstraightawayasitwillcontinuetocookifleftinthepan.
4.Tomakethecrèmecaramelfilling,inalargebowl,whisktheeggswiththecastersugar.Inapan,bringthemilkandvanillaextracttotheboilandpouritovertheeggsandcastersugarwhilewhisking.Passitthoughaveryfinesieveandfilltheramekins.
5. Pour 3cm of boiling water into the bottom of the baking tray and cook the crèmecaramels in a bain-marie (see page24) for 20–30minutes at 140°C/275°F/GasMark 1untilitissetlikeajelly.Coolatroomtemperature.
CHEF’STOPTIP
Servethecrèmecaramelwithcrispcinnamonbiscuits(page252)orNini’ssablés (page240).
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Darkchocolateandorangemousse
MOUSSEAUCHOCOLATNOIRÀL’ORANGE
Using55%darkchocolatewillstopthemoussefromsettinghardinthefridge.Ifyouwanttouseadarkerchocolate,Iwouldrecommendyouaddanextraeggand30mlof
freshdoublecreamtotheoriginalrecipe.Youcanalsochangeitsflavourbyaddingafewdropsofmintorcoffeeextractinsteadoftheorangepeel.Orjustenjoyitplain.
Serves6/Preparationtime:15minutes/Settingtimeinthefridge:2hoursYouwillneed6medium-sizeglassesorcupsasservingdish
INGREDIENTS
180g55%darkchocolate
120mlfreshdoublecream
30mlsemi-skimmedorfullfatmilk
zestof1orange(peeled)
20gsoftbutter
3mediumeggs
20gcastersugar
1.Chopthedarkchocolateandputitinalargebowl.
2. In a pan, bring the cream, milk and orange zest to the boil, and pour it over thechocolatethroughasieve.Stirwithaspatulauntilthechocolateiscompletelymelted.
3.Dicethesoftbutterandstiritintothemix.
4.Whiskthe3eggwhitesandcastersugartofirmpeaks(seepage38)andaddthe3eggyolksattheend.
5.Incorporateone-thirdoftheeggmixtothechocolate,makingacircularmovementfromthebottomupwardswith the spatula inonehand,andgivingaquarter turn to thebowlwiththeother.Thenfoldintheremainingtwo-thirdsoftheeggmix.
6.Fillthe6individualdishesandsettheminthefridgeforaminimumof2hours.Takethemoutofthefridge15minutesbeforeserving.
CHEF’STOPTIP
Serve the dark chocolate and orangemoussewith plain crunchy biscuits such as rolled(page244),Bretons(page238)orheart-shapedbiscuits(page250).
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Coffee,vanillaandchocolatebavarois
BAVAROISCAFÉ,VANILLEETCHOCOLAT
Thisisaveryold-fashioneddessert.Thecombinationofcoffee,vanillaandchocolateisalwaysawinner.Classicsaretimeless,butIdiduselessgelatineleavesthanis
traditionallyusedinthiskindofdessert.Serves8/Preparationtime:45minutes/Restingtimeatroomtemperature:30minutesRestingtimeinthefridge:15×2minutes(betweenlayers)/Cookingtime:5minutesYouwillneed8servingglasses+8
mugsorglasses
INGREDIENTS
8smallgelatineleaves(12g)
Forthecrèmeanglaise
4eggyolks
120gcastersugar
125mlsemi–skimmedorfullfatmilk
175mlfreshdoublecream
2vanillapods(openedandscraped)
Forthe3-flavourbavaroiscream
500mlfreshdoublecream
50gdarkchocolate(64%),chopped
50mlfreshdoublecream
1or2teaspoonscoffeeextract
1.Soakthegelatineleavesincoldwaterfor10minutes.
2.Make thecrèmeanglaise following themethodonpage26.Press thegelatine leavesbetweenyourhandstoremovetheexcesswaterandaddthemtothecrèmeanglaise.Stirwithawhiskandcoolatroomtemperaturefor30minutes.
3.Makethebavaroiscream:whisk500mlofcreamintoasoftandrunnywhippedcream.Pouritoverthecrèmeanglaiseandmixwithaspatula.
4.Chopthechocolateandputitinalargebowl.Bringthe50mlofcreamtotheboilandpour it over the chocolate. Stirwith a spatula until it ismelted.Weigh out 300gof thebavaroiscreamand incorporate it into thechocolatemix, startingwitha smallquantity.Pourthechocolatebavaroiscreamintoajugorapipingbag.
5.Placethe8servingglassesover8otherglassesormugs,ata45-degreeangle,andpour
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inthechocolatebavaroiscream.Setinthefridgefor15minutes.
6.Stirtheremainingbavaroiscreamandweighout350ginajugorpipingbag,touseitasitisforthevanillalayer.
7.Removetheglassesfromthefridge,rotatethemone-thirdtotherightandpourinthevanillabavarois.Setinthefridgefor15minutes.
8.Flavourtheremaining350gbavaroiscreamwith1or2teaspoonsofcoffeeextract,totaste.Removetheglassesfromthefridge,putthemflatontheworksurfaceandtopwiththecoffeebavarois.Putinthefridgeandremove15minutesbeforeserving.
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Lemonsoufflé
SOUFFLÉAUCITRON
I’malittlebitfussywhenitcomestosoufflés;Ifindthattheysometimestastetooeggy,whichiswhyIlovethisrecipe–thelemoncrèmepâtissièregivesthesouffléstheir
incrediblyrichtasteandverylighttexture.Justamazing!Serves6/Preparationtime:30minutes/Cookingtime:5minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:1hour/
Bakingtime:8–10minutesat180°C/350°F/GasMark4/Youwillneed6ramekins
INGREDIENTS
Forthelemoncrèmepâtissière
350mlfullfatorsemi-skimmedmilk
zestof1lemon
4eggyolks
50gcastersugar
25gplainflour
150mlsievedlemonjuice(2–3lemons)
Forthemould
30gsoftbutter
30gcastersugar
Forthesoufflémix
260glemoncrèmepâtissière
2eggyolks
4eggwhites
60gcastersugar
1.Bringthemilkwiththelemonzesttotheboilandmakethecrèmepâtissièrefollowingthemethodonpage28.Stirinthelemonjuice,coverwithclingfilmincontactwiththesurfaceofthecreamandplaceinthefridgeforaminimumof1hour.
2.Brush theramekinswithsoftbutterandput themin thefridgefor15minutes.Brushwithbutterasecondtimeandcoatwithcastersugar.
3.Forthesoufflémix,inalargebowl,put260goflemoncrèmepâtissièreandwhiskintheeggyolks.Usinganelectricmixeratmediumspeed,whisk theeggwhites toa softpeak(seepage38)andgraduallyadd thecastersugar.Whisk themeringue topeak(seepage38).Foldathirdofthewhippedeggwhitesintothelemonmix,thentheremaining
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two-thirds,makingacircularmovementfromthebottomupwardswiththespatulainonehand,andgivingaquarterturntothebowlwiththeother.
4.Filltheramekinsusingatablespoonorapipingbagfittedwithalargenozzle.Flattenthem outwith a pallet knife andwipe clean the top of each ramekin using your indexfinger.Bakeandservestraightaway.
CHEF’STOPTIP
The soufflémix, raw and baked, is quite fragile andwill collapse rather quickly. Theymustbemade,bakedandservedstraightaway.It isdeliciousonitsownorservedwithfreshraspberries,astrawberrysaladoracherrysorbet.
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CHAPTER8
Spongecakes
LESPÂTESÀBISCUIT
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Apricotjamrouladecake
BISCUITROULÉÀLACONFITURED’ABRICOT
Thisverylight,butter-freecakeisreallyeasyandfasttomake;itwillsaveyoufromanylast-minutebirthdaycakeemergenciesandbothchildrenandparentsloveit.Youcanvary
theflavourofthejamoruseachocolateandhazelnutspreadinstead.Serves8/Cookingtime:5minutes(forjam)/Preparationtime:30minutesBakingtime:10–12minutes
at180°C/350°F/GasMark4Youwillneeda30×40cmbakingtray
INGREDIENTS
450ggénoisemix(seepage24)
Forthehomemadeapricotjam
300gripeapricots,stonedanddiced
180ggranulatedsugar
(Or1smalljarofapricotjam)
1.Tomaketheapricotjam,placethedicedapricotsandgranulatedsugarinapan.Bringitto theboiloveramediumheat,andcookitfor5minutes,stirringcontinuously.Coolatroomtemperature.
2.Makethegénoisespongemixturefollowingthemethodonpage24.
3.Spreaditoutevenly to8mm–1cmthickona tray linedwithasiliconematorbakingpaper.Ifthespongeistoothickitmighttearwhenyoumaketheroulade.Bakeitstraightaway,turningthetrayintheovenafter7–8minutestofinishbakinguntilgoldenbrown.
4.Whilethespongeisstillhot,usethetipofaknifetoseparateitfromthetrayandturnitupside down onto a clean kitchen cloth. Remove the tray and carefully peel away thesiliconemator thebakingpaper.Place the rectanglespongewith thewideredge facingyouandtrimeachsidewithaknifetoremovethedryparts.
5.Spreadoveragenerouslayerofapricotjam,leaving3cmjam-freeatthetopedge.
6.Maketherouladebystartingtorollfromthebottomoftherectangletothetop.Usetheclothtoliftupandholdthespongewhilerolling.Thebeginningoftherollmustbetightinordertogetaperfectlyroundrouladecake.Finishwiththejoinunderneath.
GOODTOKNOW
Theapricotjamcanbestoredinjarsandkeptuptoayearinacellaroracool,darkplace.Thejarsmustbefilledtothetopstraightaftercooking,whilethejamisstillboilinghot.Placethelidsonandturnthejarsupsidedowninordertosterilizetheairinsidethem.Thefollowingday,turnthemtherightwayupandstorethem.
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Howtomakeahomemadepralinepaste
1.Puttheblanchedalmondsandtheblanchedhazelnutsinabakingtray,andtoastthemintheovenfor10minutesat150°C/300°F/GasMark2.Shake the tray in theovenafter5minutestoevenupthebaking.
2.Putthecastersugarandwaterinalargepanandbringthemtotheboilatahighheat.Cookthesyrupto115°Cusingaprobeorasugarthermometer.
3.Addthetoastednutsandturntheheatdown.
4.Stirwithaspatula;thesugarwillcrystallizeandcoatthenuts.
5.Keepstirringatalowheatuntilthesugarcaramelizesevenlywithoutburning.Coolonbakingpaper.
6.Blitzthecaramelizednutsinafoodprocessorfor10–15minutes.
7.Thepralinepastemustberunny,almostliquid,warmbutnothot.Keepitinthefridge.As thenatural fatcontentof thenuts tends toseparateand rise to the top, stir thepastebeforeuse.
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PralineChristmaslog
BÛCHEDENOËLAUPRALINÉ
ThispâtisserieiseateninFranceonChristmasday.TheclassicChristmaslogsaremadewithaspongebiscuitandaflavouredbuttercream.Butallsortsofsweetvariationscannowbefound:triooficecreamsandsorbets,orfruitsandmousseChristmaslogs.
Serves10/Preparationtime:1½hours/Cookingtime:5+10minutesBakingtime:10–12minutesat180°C/350°F/GasMark4/Youwillneeda30×40cmbakingtray
INGREDIENTS
Forthehomemadepralinepaste
150gblanchedalmonds
150gblanchedhazelnuts
85gcastersugar
50mlwater
Forthesyrup
60gcastersugar
40mlwater
Forthesponge
450ggénoisemix(seepage24)
Forthepralinebuttercream
550gbuttercream(seepage32)
80gpralinepaste(homemadeorreadymade)
Forthedecoration
150gdicedhazelnuts
42gcastersugar
24mlwater
10ggratedwhitechocolate
1.Makethehomemadepralinepaste,ifusing,followingthemethodonpage194.
2.Forthesyrup,inapan,bringthecastersugarandthewatertotheboil.Coolatroomtemperature.
3.Makethegénoisespongemix.Spreaditoutevenlyto8mm–1cmthickonatraylinedwithasiliconematorbakingpaper.Ifthespongeistoothickitmighttearwhenyouroll
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uptheChristmaslog.Bakeitfor7minutes,turnthetrayintheovenandbakeforanother3–5minutesuntilgoldenbrown.
4.Withaknifetip,separatethespongefromthebakingtray.Turnthewarmgénoiseoverontoacleankitchenclothandpeeloffthebakingpaperorthesiliconemat.Brushwiththesyrupwhile it’swarmand trimeach sideof the spongewith a knife to remove thedryparts.
5.Makethebuttercreamfollowingtherecipeonpage32,butwithoutthevanillapods.Setaside 2 tablespoons of plain buttercream to garnish the inside of the branch, andincorporatetheremainderwiththepralinepaste.
6. Put the diced hazelnuts on a baking tray and toast them for 15 minutes at150°C/300°F/GasMark 2, shaking the tray every 5 minutes. Caramelize the hazelnutsfollowingsteps2–5ofthepralinepastemethodonpage194.Coolonbakingpaperandbreakthemdownbyhand.
7.Placethespongewithoneofthewidestedgesfacingyouandspreadoverathinlayerofpralinebuttercream,leavingthetopedge3cmfreeofcream.
8.RolltheChristmaslogstartingfromthebottomoftherectangle.Thebeginningoftherollmust be tight in order to get a perfectly roundChristmas log. Finishwith the joinunderneaththecake.
9.SliceoffasmallpieceoftheChristmaslogonthediagonal,placeitonthetoptomakea branch and cover its middle with the plain buttercream. Cover the rest of cake withhazelnut buttercream and use a fork to decorate it. Coat the sides with caramelizedhazelnutsandgratesomewhitechocolateoverthetopforthesnow.Keepinthefridgeandleavefor15minutesatroomtemperaturebeforeserving.
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Coffeemoka
MOKAAUCAFÉ
Thisisdefinitelyoneofmyfavouritecakes.Ijustlovethecontrastbetweenthelightgénoisespongeandtherichcoffeebuttercream.Irecommendkeepingtheleftoverdiced
almondsandsprinklingthemoneachsliceofcake.It’ssuperdeliciousthisway.Serves8/Preparationtime:20+35minutes/Cookingtime:5minutesBakingtime:25–30minutesat
160°C/325°F/GasMark3Youwillneeda20cmsquareorroundcaketin
INGREDIENTS
450ggénoisemix(seepage24)
Forthecoffeebuttercream
275gplainbuttercream(½recipeseepage32)
1–2tablespoonscoffeeextract
(or1teaspooninstantcoffee+1teaspoonboilingwater)
Forthegarnish
150gdicedalmonds
Forthecoffeesyrup
5teaspoonscastersugar
1shortespressoorstrong,shortinstantcoffee
1.Makethegénoisespongemixfollowingthemethodonpage24,bakeitandleaveittocooldown.
2.Makethebuttercreamfollowingthemethodonpage32,andflavouritwiththecoffeeextracttotaste.Keepitatroomtemperature.
3.Put thedicedalmondsonabaking trayand toast them in theoven for10minutesat150°C/300°F/GasMark2.Stirthemafter5minutesandcarryonbaking.
4.Makethecoffeesyrupbyaddingthecastersugartothehotcoffee.
5.Turnthegénoiseupsidedownandsplititsidewaysin2equallayers.Soaktheinsideofthe bottompartwith the coffee syrup using a pastry brush, then spread over a layer ofcoffeebuttercream(7mm–1cmthick).Soaktheinsideofthetoppartofthegénoisewiththecoffeesyrupandplaceitonthetopofthebuttercream.
6. Spread some coffee buttercream all over themoka, smoothing it on topwith a longspatulaorknife.Coatitssideswiththetoasteddicedalmonds.
7.Fillapipingbagfittedwithasmallflutednozzlewiththerestofthecoffeebuttercream
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anddecoratethetopofthemoka.
CHEF’SADVICE
Themokamustbekeptinacoolplaceorinthefridge,andtakenout30minutesbeforeserving.Thebuttercreamtastesbetterservedcoolbutnotcold.
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BakedAlaska
OMELETTENORVÉGIENNE
It’sthecontrastbetweenthecoldicecreamandthehotmeringuethatmakesthisdessertspecial.Thewhippedeggwhitesdonotconductheatwell,whichallowstheAlaskatobebakedforafewminuteswithoutmeltingtheicecream.It’sascientific‘magictrick’!
Serves8/Preparationtime:20+40minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:overnight/Bakingtime:15–20minutesat180°C/350°F/GasMark4forthesponge,2minutesat250°C/480°F/GasMark9forthemeringue(optional)/Youwillneeda20cmovalcaketinanda20cmovalbowlora24cmrectanglecaketin
INGREDIENTS
225ggénoise(½recipeonpage24)
Forthevanillaicecream(youcanalsouseready-madeicecream)
8eggyolks
80gcastersugar
250mlsemi-skimmedorfullfatmilk
350mlfreshdoublecream
1tablespoonglucosesyrup
Forthesyrup
1tablespoonboilingwater
2tablespoonscastersugar
3tablespoonsGrandMarnier
FortheFrenchmeringue(seepage36)
3eggwhites(120g)
200gcastersugar
1.Thedaybefore,makethevanillaicecreamfollowingthecrèmeanglaiserecipeonpage26.Addtheglucosesyrupattheend,offtheheat.Restovernightinthefridgeandchurnitinanice-creammakerthenextmorning.Alternativelyyoucanofcourseuseready-madeicecream.
2.Ontheday,makeagénoisespongefollowingthemethodonpage24,and leave it tocooldown.
3.Forthesyrup,bringthewaterandcastersugartotheboil,coolfor15minutesandaddtheGrandMarnier.
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4.BrushthegénoisewithGrandMarniersyrup.Fillthebowlortinwithvanillaicecream,placethegénoiseontopandsetitinthefreezerforaminimumof12hours.
5.BeforeservingmaketheFrenchmeringuebywhiskingtheeggwhiteswiththecastersugartopeak.
6. Place the ice-cream cake bowl/tin in a larger bowl filled with hot water for a fewsecondsandturnitout.
7. Spread over the meringue with a spatula and place the cake in a very hot oven(250°C/480°F/GasMark9)for2minutes.Orburnthemeringuewithablowtorch.Servestraightaway.
HowtoflambéaBakedAlaskaBakedAlaskacanbeflambéedwithGrandMarnierinfrontofyourguests.Warmup50mlofGrandMarnierinapan,lightitcarefullyandpouritovertheBakedAlaska.Itlooksquitespectacularandtastesreallygood,butonthedownsideittendstoburnthemeringueandmakeitabitsoggy.
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Strawberryandpistachiocreamsponge
FRAISIERÀLAPISTACHE
Thiscakeisusuallymadewithavanillacreampreparedwithhalfbuttercreamandhalfcrèmepâtissière.MypistachioFraisierisadeliciousmoderntakeonaclassicFrench
cake.Serves12/Preparationtime:20+40minutes/Bakingtime:10–12minutesat180°C/350°F/GasMark4/
Settingtimeinthefridge:8hours/Youwillneeda20×6cmring,abakingtrayandablowtorch
INGREDIENTS
450gofgénoisemix(seepage24)
Forthekirschsyrup
25gcastersugar
50mlwater
2tablespoonskirschorstrawberryliqueur
Forthegarnish
250gmarzipan
30gicingsugar,todust
2punnetsoflargestrawberries(500geach)
25gwhitechocolate,melted
Forthepistachiocream
4smallgelatineleaves(6g)
30gcastersugar
15mlwater
500mlfreshdoublecream
80–100gpistachiopaste,totaste(readymadeorhomemade,followmethodforpralinepastepage194,withoutdoingstep1)
1.Make the génoisemix folowing themethod on page 24,without baking. Spread themixtureoutina1cmlayeronabakingtraylinedwithasiliconematorbakingpaperusingaspatula.Thespongemustbelargeenoughtocut2ringsof20cm.Bakeitfor7minutes,turnthetrayandbakeforanother3–5minutesuntilgoldenbrown.Coolonthetray.
2.Forthekirschsyrup,putthewaterandsugarinasmallpanandbringthemtotheboil.
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Coolthesyrupfor15minutesthenaddthekirschorstrawberryliqueur.
3. Turn the sponge over onto thework surface and gently peel off the siliconemat orbakingpaper.Placetheringoveritandcutthe2circlesusingasharpknifeontheoutsideofthering.
4.Rolloutthemarzipanwithicingsugarandcutacirclearoundtheoutsideofthering.Placethemarzipanonabakingtrayandcaramelizeitusingablowtorch.
5.Puttheringonaservingtrayandplaceacircleofgénoiseinthebase.Soakitinalittlebitofkirschsyrupusingapastrybrush.
6.Putthestrawberriesinacolanderandwashthemquicklyundercoldwater.Drainandput them on a clean cloth to dry. Cut the bottoms off. Garnish the cake with half-strawberriesaroundtheinsideoftheringandsomewholestrawberriesinsidethecake.
7.Makethepistachiocream:Soakthegelatineleavesincoldwaterfor10minutes.Bringthecaster sugar andwater to theboil and,off theheat, add thepressedgelatine leaves.Whiskthecreamwiththepistachiopasteandaddthegelatinesyrupwhenitstartstorise.Thepistachiocreammustdoubleinsizebutstillberunnyenoughtobepouredoverthestrawberries.
8. Put the second circle of génoise on the top, soak it with the syrup and place thecaramelizedmarzipanontop.Setinthefridgefor8hours.
9. Before serving, blowtorch all the way around the ring to melt the edges and thenremovetheringbyliftingitupwithakitchencloth.Decoratethecakewithstrawberriesusingsomemeltedwhitechocolatetostickthemontothecake.
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Howtomakechocolateshavings
Recipefor150gofchocolateshavingsmadewithtemperedchocolate.
1.Chop50gofdarkchocolate(orone-thirdoftotalquantity)withalargeknife.
2.Melt 100gof dark chocolate (or two-thirds of total quantity) in themicrowave for 1minuteatamediumpower.Stirwithaspatulathenrepeatthisstepevery30secondsuntilthechocolateiscompletelymelted.
3. Add the chopped chocolate to themelted chocolate and stir with a spatula until it’smelted.Thechocolateisnowtempered.
4.Spreadout the chocolate in a thin layeron awork surface, andwait until it starts tocrystallize.
5.Makethechocolateshavingsusingascraperoraknife.
6.Storethechocolateshavingsinacoolplace(about17°C).
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Doublechocolateandraspberrysponge
FRAMBOISIERAUXDEUXCHOCOLATS
Atraditionalframboisierismadewith2layersofplainspongeandavanillacreamcomposedofhalfbuttercreamandhalfcrèmepâtissière.I’veadaptedthisclassicrecipeto
makeanallchocolateandraspberrydessert.Serves12/Preparationtime:20+40minutes/Bakingtime:10–12minutesat180°C/350°F/GasMark4/Settingtimeinthefridge:8hours/Youwillneeda24×4.5cmhexagonalora20cmroundcaketin
INGREDIENTS
Forthechocolatesponge
170gdarkchocolate(70%),chopped
170gbutter
4mediumeggs,separated
170gcastersugar
70gplainflour
7gbakingpowder
80ggroundalmonds
1pinchofsalt
Forthewhitechocolatemousse
2smallgelatineleaves(3g)
120gwhitechocolate
200mlfreshdoublecream
1vanillapod(openedandscraped)
280mlfreshdoublecream
Forthechocolateganache
125gdarkchocolate(64%),chopped
30gbutter
60mlsemi-skimmedorfullfatmilk
25mlfreshdoublecream
Forthegarnish
4punnetsoflargeraspberries
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Forthechocolateshavings(optional)
40gdarkchocolate,melted
20gdarkchocolate,chopped
1.For the chocolate sponge,melt the chocolate and the butter in themicrowave for 30secondsatamediumpower.Stirwithaspatulaandrepeatthisstep3or4timesuntilbotharemelted.Cool for 10minutes then add the egg yolks one at a time, followedby thesiftedcastersugar,flour,bakingpowderandgroundalmonds.Whisktheeggwhiteswithapinch of salt to peak (see page 38). Incorporate a third with the chocolate mix, thenincorporatetheremainingtwo-thirds.Spreaditoutto1cmthickoveratraylinedwithasilicone mat or baking paper. The sponge must be large enough to cut 2 hexagons of24cm.Bakefor7minutesat180°C/350°F/GasMark4,turnthetrayandbakeforanother3–5minutes.Prickthespongewithaknife;ifthebladecomesoutcleanit’scooked.Coolonthemat.
2. Turn the sponge over onto thework surface and gently peel off the siliconemat orbaking paper. Place the cake tin over it and cut 2 hexagons using a sharp knife on theoutsideofthetin.
3.Putthetinonaservingtrayandplaceahexagonofthechocolatespongeinthebase.Garnishthecakewithlargeraspberries.
4.Tomakethewhitechocolatemousse,followthemethodonpage82andpouritovertheraspberries.Putthesecondhexagononthetopandpressgentlywiththefingertips.Setinthefridgefor8hours.
5.Makethechocolateshavingsfollowingthemethodonpage204,ifusing.
6. To make the chocolate ganache, melt the chocolate and butter in the microwavefollowingthemethodinstep1.Thenaddthecoldmilkandthecreamin3or4batches.Thiswillcoolthetemperatureoftheganache.Putbackinthemicrowaveforanextra20secondstowarmitupandbringitbackto40°C(itmustfeelwarmbutnothot),whichisagood temperature touseaganache.Pour itover thecakeandspread itoutwitha largepalletknife.Setinthefridge.
7.Halfanhourbeforeserving,blowtorchall thewayaroundthehexagonframetomelttheedgesof thecreamand remove itby lifting itupwithakitchencloth.Decorate thecakewithwhitechocolatemousse,raspberriesandchocolateshavings.
GOODTOKNOW
Thechocolatespongecanbebakedinacaketin,thensplitinhalfandgarnishedwiththesetwhitechocolatemousseandfreshraspberries.Doubletheingredientsforthechocolateganache,andcoverthecakeentirely.
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Chestnutandpearcharlotte
CHARLOTTEÀLACHÂTAIGNEETAUXPOIRES
Charlottesarelightandmeltinthemouth.Thespongebiscuitscanbesoakedquicklyinthepearpoachingliquor,flavouredwithalittledarkrumifthedessertisintendedfor
adults.Serves8/Preparationtime:20+30minutesBakingtime:8–10minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3/Settingtimeinthefridge:6hoursYouwillneedan18cmhigh-sidedroundcaketinandanon-stick
bakingtray
INGREDIENTS
40spongefingers(seepage248)
butter,forgreasing
Forthepoachedpears
3ripeWilliamspears
500mlwater
150gcastersugar
1vanillapod(openedandscraped)
Forthechestnutmousse
4smallgelatineleaves(6g)
400gchestnutspread
350mlfreshdoublecream
Forthechocolateshavings(optional)
40gdarkchocolate,melted
20gdarkchocolate,chopped
1.Makethepoachedpearsfollowingthemethodonpage68.
2.Makethespongefingersfollowingthemethodonpage248.Coolonthetray.
3.Greasethemouldwithbutterandlinewithbakingpaper.
4.Forthechestnutmousse,soakthegelatineleavesincoldwaterfor10minutes.Putthechestnutcreaminalargebowl.Bring50mlofcreamtotheboiland,offtheheat,addthesqueezedgelatineleaves.Pourthehotcreamontopofthechestnutspreadandstirwithaspatula.Whisktheremaining300mlofcreamtoasoftandrunnywhippedcreamandfolditintothechestnutspread.Thechestnutmoussemustbesoftandrunny.Dice4poached
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pearhalvesandincorporatethemtothemousse.
5.Linethebottomandthesideofthemouldwithspongefingers,placingtheicingsugarsidesincontactwiththebakingpaper.
6.Pourinathirdofthechestnutmousseandcoveritwithalayerofspongefingers.Thenaddanotherthirdofmousseandalayerofspongefingers.Finally,pourintheremainingmousseandafinallayerofspongefingers.Setinthefridgeforaminimumof6hours.
7.Turn themouldupsidedownona serving tray andhelp the charlotte to slideoutbypullinggentlyonthebakingpaper.
8.Decorate thecharlottewith slicedpoachedpearsandchocolate shavings (seemethodpage204).
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Howtomakeahazelnutdacquoise
1.Sifttogethertheicingsugar,groundhazelnutsandplainflour.
2.MakeaFrenchmeringuewiththeeggwhitesandthecastersugar.Whisktheeggwhitesatmedium speed.When they start to rise, gradually add the caster sugar andbeat untilfirm.
3. Pour in the sifted icing sugar, ground hazelnuts and plain flour on the top of themeringueinonego.
4. Gently combine the dry ingredients with the meringue using a spatula, withoutoverworkingit.Makeacircularmovementwiththespatulainonehand,startingfromthebottom upwards, and give the bowl a quarter turn with the other hand. Repeat thesemovementsuntilthedacquoisemixiscombined.Becarefulnottooverworkthedacquoiseotherwiseitwillcollapse.
5.Fillapipingbagfittedwithalargenozzle.
6.Draw3circlesof20cmonbakingpaperandplacethemon2or3bakingtrays.Stickthebakingpapertothetraywithalittlebitofdacquoisemix.
7.Pipethedacquoise,startingfromthemiddleofthecircle,toformasnailshapeuptotheedge.Repeatthisstepwiththe2othercircles.
8.Sprinklethe3dacquoiseswithchoppedblanchedhazelnutsandicingsugar.
9.Bakestraightawayfor14minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3,thenturnthetrayandbakeforanother2–4minutesuntilevenlybeige.Leavetocooldownonthetray.
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Hazelnutlayercake
DACQUOISEÀLANOISETTE
Originatingfromthesouth-westofFrance,thiscakeisnamedaftertheinhabitantsofthetownofDax.Usuallymadewithgroundalmonds,itcanalsobepreparedwithgroundhazelnuts,groundpistachiosordesiccatedcoconutandfilledwithdifferentkindsof
mousse.Irecommendmakingthiscakeadayinadvance;itwillbemoisterandtasteevenbetterthefollowingday.
Serves8/Preparationtime:1hour/Bakingtime:16–18minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3Youwillneed2or3bakingtrays(topipethe3×20cmsponge)
INGREDIENTS
Forthehomemadepralinepaste
150gblanchedalmonds
150gblanchedhazelnuts
85gcastersugar
50mlwater
Forthehazelnutdacquoisesponge
175ggroundhazelnuts
175gicingsugar
40gplainflour
7eggwhites(280g)
110gcastersugar
30gblanchedhazelnuts,chopped
30gicingsugar,fordusting
Forthepralinemousse
2smallgelatineleaves(3g)
3eggwhites(120g)
230gcastersugar
75mlwater
120ghomemadeorreadymadepralinepaste(50%almonds,50%hazelnuts)
1.Makethehomemadepralinepastefollowingthemethodonpage194.
2.Makethehazelnutdacquoisefollowingthemethodonpage210.
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3.Forthepralinemousse,soakthegelatineleavesincoldwaterfor10minutes.MakeanItalianmeringue following themethod on page 38 and, off the heat, add the squeezedgelatineleavestothesyrup.
4.Inalargebowl,whiskthepralinepasteandaddaquarteroftheItalianmeringuewithawhisktosoften thepralinepaste. Incorporate therestof themeringueinonegousingaspatula,makingacircularmovementfromthebottomupwardswithaspatulainonehand,and giving the bowl a quarter turn with the other. Repeat these movements until thepralinemousseisevenlycombined.Fillapipingbagfittedwithamedium-sizenozzle.
5.Peeloffthebakingpaperfromthe3spongesandbuildupthedacquoise.Place1layerofspongeinthemiddleofaservingdish.Pipeoveralayerofpralinemousseandcoveritwithasecond layerofsponge.Pipeasecond layerofmousseandput the final layerofdacquoisespongeontop.
6.Keepinthefridgeanddustwithicingsugarbeforeserving.
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Chocolateandorangecake
REINEDESABAÀL’ORANGE
Richandmoist,thisisadeliciousandsimplecakeforallthefamily.Youcanalsotryitwithoutorange,orswaptheplainflourforpotatoflourtogetwhatwillprobablybethe
bestgluten-freecakeyou’veevertasted.Serves10/Preparationtime:20minutes/Bakingtime:45–60minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3/You
willneeda20–24cmroundcaketin
INGREDIENTS
250gdarkchocolate(70%),chopped
250gbutter
6mediumeggs,separated
250gcastersugar
100gplainflour
10gbakingpowder
120ggroundalmonds
1mediumorange(finelygratedzestandjuice)
1pinchofsalt
1. Grease themouldwith butter and flour. Turn it over and knock it against the worksurfacetoremovetheexcessflour.
2.Putthechocolateandthebutterinabowl.Melttheminthemicrowave,atamediumpowerfor1minute,thencheckandstirwithaspatula.Repeatthisstepevery30secondsuntilbotharemelted.Ormeltthemslowlyinabain-marie(seepage24).Leavetocoolto35–40°Cfor10–15minutes.
3.Stirintheeggyolksonebyoneusingawhisk.Addthecastersugar,plainflour,bakingpowderandgroundalmondsinonego,thenaddthezestandthejuiceoftheorange.
4.Whiskthe6eggwhiteswithapinchofsalttopeak(seepage38).Incorporateathirdinto the chocolatemix to lighten it, followed by the last two-thirds, making a circularmovementfromthebottomupwardswithaspatulainonehand,andgivingaquarterturntothebowlwiththeother.Repeatthisstepuntilthemixiscombinedwithoutoverworkingit.
5. Fill the cake tin andbake the cake straight away.Prick the cakewith the blade of aknife;ifitcomesoutcleanit’scooked.Coolonawirerack.
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BlackForestgateau
FORÊT-NOIRE
OriginallyfromGermany,theBlackForestgateauisalsoverypopularinAlsaceatthefrontierbetweenFranceandGermany,andeverywhereinFrance.Begenerouswiththe
griottines;theygivethecakeitsuniqueflavour.Serves12/Preparationtime:20+40minutes/Bakingtime:30–40minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3/
Restingtimeinfridge:15+20minutesYouwillneeda20–22cmroundcaketin
INGREDIENTS
Forthechocolategénoise
150gplainflour
30gcocoapowder
6mediumeggs
185gcastersugar
Forthechocolateshavings
100gdarkchocolate,melted
50gdarkchocolate,chopped
Forthekirschgarnish
600gChantillycream(2×recipeonpage34)
200ggriottines(morellocherriespreservedinkirsch)
Forthechocolateganache
125gdarkchocolate(64%),chopped
30gbutter
60mlsemi-skimmedorfullfatmilk
25mlfreshdoublecream
1. Sift the plain flour with the cocoa powder and make the chocolate génoise spongefollowingthemethodonpage24.Bakeandcoolfor1houronawirerack.
2.Makethechocolateshavings(page204).
3.Drainthekirschcherriesandplacethemonkitchenpaper todry.Setasidethekirschliqueurtosoakthechocolategénoise.Cutthecherriesinhalf.
4.MaketheChantillycreamfollowingthemethodonpage34andkeepit in thefridge.Turnthechocolategénoiseupsidedownandsplititsidewaysinto3equalparts.
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5.Soaktheinsideofthebottompartwithkirschliqueurusingapastrybrush.Spreadovera layerofChantillycream(1cmthick),divide thecherryhalvesandpush theminto thecream.
6.Putthemiddlesectionofthecakebackontopofthecream,andrepeatstep5.
7. Soak the inside of the top part of the génoise and place it on top of the cake. Pressgentlyonitwiththepalmofyourhandtolevelitout.RemovetheexcessChantillycreamaroundthesideofthecakeusingaspatulaandplaceitinthefridgefor15minutes.
8.For thechocolateganache,melt thechocolateand thebutter in themicrowavefor30seconds,atamediumpower.Stirwithaspatulaandrepeatthisstep3or4timesuntilbotharemelted.Ormeltthemoverabain-marie(seepage24).Thenaddthecoldmilkandthecream in 3 or 4 batches. This will cool the temperature of the ganache. Return to themicrowaveforanother20secondstowarmitupandbringitbackto40°C(itmustfeelwarmbutnothot).
9.Spreadouttheganacheonthetopofthecakeandlevelitoutusingalongspatulaorknife.Removeroughlytheexcessofganachefromthesideofthecake.Setinthefridgefor20minutes.
10.Spreadouta thin layerofChantillycreamall around thecake, anddecorate itwithchocolateshavings.UsetheleftoverChantillycream,chocolateshavingsandgriottinestodecorate the topof theBlackForest gateau.Keep it in the fridge and remove it 1hourbeforeserving.
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CHAPTER9
Sweettreats
GOURMANDISES
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Darkchocolateandlemonmadeleines
MADELEINESAUCITRONETAUCHOCOLATNOIR
Thisrecipeismygrown-upversionoftheclassicmadeleines.Youcanalsotrythemplainwith1teaspoonofvanillaextractinsteadofthelemonzest.Childrenlovethem.
Serves8(24madeleines)/Preparationtime:15minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:4hours(orovernight)/Bakingtime:8–10minutesat190°C/375°F/GasMark5Youwillneedasiliconemouldfor9
or12madeleines
INGREDIENTS
250gmeltedbutter,warm
250gplainflour
1pinchofsalt
8gbakingpowder
5mediumeggs
250gcastersugarthinlygratedzestof1lemon
100gdarkchocolate,chopped
1.Slowlymeltthebutterinapanorinthemicrowave.
2.Sifttogethertheplainflour,saltandbakingpowder.
3.Inalargebowl,whisktheeggs,castersugarandlemonzestfor1minute.Addthesiftedpowdersallatthesametimeandmixuntilithasanevenconsistency.Finally,incorporateslowlythewarmmeltedbutterintothemix.
4.Coverthemadeleinemixwithclingfilmincontactandrestinthefridgeforaminimumof4hours,orovernightifpossible.Itwillhelpthemadeleinestoriseduringbaking.
5.Grease themadeleinesmouldswith soft butter, and fill them two-thirds full using atablespoonorapipingbag.
6.Bakestraightawayuntilgoldenbrownand turn themoutwhile stillwarm.Put thembackinthemouldontheirsidestocool.
7.Melt thedarkchocolate in themicrowaveatmediumpowerfor1minute, thencheckand stirwith a spatula.Repeat this step every30 secondsuntil the chocolate ismelted.Alternatively, melt it slowly in a bain-marie (see page 24). Dip the bottom of themadeleinesintothechocolateandplacetheminthefridgefor10minutestoallowthemtocrystallize.Enjoythemadeleinesatroomtemperature.
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Apricotfinanciers
FINANCIERSÀL’ABRICOT
FinanciersaresmallindividualrectanglarcakesgenerallyeateninFranceattheendofamealwithcoffee.Theyareusuallymadewithgroundalmonds,andcanalsobeflavouredwithgriottines(morellocherriespreservedinkirsch),lemonzestandblueberries,rhubarborchocolate.Groundhazelnutsoramixofgroundalmondsandgroundpistachioscanbe
usedinsteadofthegroundalmonds.Serves12/Preparationtime:25minutes/Restingtime:1hourinthefridgeBakingtime:15minutesat
160°C/325°F/GasMark3Youwillneedasiliconemouldfor20smallfinanciers(2×4cm)
INGREDIENTS
170gbutter
250gicingsugar
135ggroundalmonds
55gplainflour
5eggwhites(200g)
Forthegarnish
50galmondbatons
8freshapricots,diced
1.Inapan,atalowheat,meltthebutterandcontinuecookingforafewminutesuntilitbecomeslightbrown(beurrenoisette).Leaveitcoolfor20minutes.
2.Sift the icingsugar,groundalmondsandflour inabowl.Addthecoldmeltedbrownbutterand1eggwhite,andstirwithawhisk.Thenaddtherestoftheeggwhitestwoatatime.
3.Fillapipingbagandrestthemixtureinthefridgefor1hourbeforebaking.
4.Brushthesiliconemouldswithsoftbutterandfillthem(two-thirdsfull).Garnisheachfinancierwith3piecesofdicedapricotandafewalmondbatons.Bakeuntilgoldenbutnottoodarkotherwisetheywillbetoodryandcoolinthemoulds.
5.Repeatstep4a fewtimes to finishoff themix.Thefinanciermixcanbekept in thefridgefor3days.
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Cannelés
CANNELÉSBORDELAIS
OriginatinginBordeaux,theselittlecakescanbeservedasadessertorattheendofamealwithcoffee.Thecondensedmilkisnotatraditionalingredientbutmoreamodern
evolutionofthisrecipe.Ipersonallyfindtheytastebetterthisway.Serves6/Preparationtime:30minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:24hoursBakingtime:25–30
minutesat170°C/325°F/GasMark3Youwillneed12smallcoppermouldsorasiliconemouldfor12smallcannelés
INGREDIENTS
225mlfullfatmilk
2vanillapods(openedandscraped)
1mediumegg
1eggyolk
150gcastersugar
100mlcondensedmilk
80gplainflour
25gdarkrum
25ghotmeltedbutter
50gsoftbutter,forgreasing
1.Bringthefullfatmilkwiththevanillapodstotheboilandleavetocooldownatroomtemperature.
2.Inalargebowl,whisktogethertheegg,yolkandcastersugar,thenaddthecondensedmilkfollowedbytheflourandthedarkrum.
3.Addthecoldmilkandvanillamix,andfinallythehotmeltedbutter.Passthecannelésmixthroughaveryfinesieveandstoreinthefridgefor24hours.
4. The following day, grease the copper or silicone moulds with butter using a pastrybrush.
5.Whiskthecannelésmixfor1minutebeforeuse.Fillthemouldsusingajugorapipingbag, leavinga0.5cmgapat the topof themoulds,andstartbakingat170°C/325°F/GasMark3for10minutes.Thecannelés tend toriseabove theirmoulds.After10minutes,remove the tray from the oven and prick the cannelés with a knife tip to make themcollapseinsidetheirmoulds.Continuebakingforanother15–20minutes.Theyarecookedwhendarkandcaramelizedon theoutside.Cool themoutof theirmouldsona cooling
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rack.Repeatstep4and5withanyremainingmix.
GOODTOKNOW
Copper moulds provide a better-looking and crispier result. Before their first use, thecoppermouldsshouldbebrushedinandoutwithbutter,putintheovenfor20minutesat250°C/480°F/GasMark9,thencleanedwhiletheyarestillhot.Theyshouldthenneverbewashedagain,onlyflashedintheovenfor5minutesandwipedcleanwithakitchencloth.Siliconemouldsworkjustfine,however,andyoucangetasimilarresultbyflashingthecannelésinahotovenfor4minutesoutoftheirmoulds.
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Howtomakemacaroons
Thereare2methodsformakingmacaroons:withaFrenchmeringue,whichisthetraditionalone,orwithanItalianmeringue,whichisthemodernwayusedbymostpastry
chefsandbakers.Theyarelessfragileandmorepracticaltouse.IwastaughtthetraditionalwaywhenIwas18,andeversinceI’vebeenusingaFrenchmeringueinallmymacaroonmixes.Themacaroonshellsaresoftandchewyandcanbefilledandeatenrightaway,whilemacaroonshellsmadewithanItalianmeringuearehard,andneedtobefilled
andplacedinthefridgefor24–48hourstomoisten.
1.Blitztogethertheicingsugarandthegroundalmonds/hazelnutsinafoodprocessorforafewsecondsthenpassthemixthroughasieve.
2.Usinganelectricmixeratmediumspeed,whisktheeggwhites,castersugarandfoodcolouring(accordingtotherecipe)untilastiffpeakforms(seepage38).
3.Pourtheeggwhitesoverthesiftedpowdersandstartmixinggentlywithaspatula.
4. Combine the powders with the egg whites until you get a thick, slightly shiny andalmost runnypaste. It’s important tostopworking themixwhen it starts toshineat therisk of overworking it. When you stop working the mix, it must flatten out almostcompletelyonitsowninthebowl,within30seconds.Ifit’sveryrunnyandflattensoutrightaway,theeggwhitesareoverworked.Andifitdoesn’tflattenoutalmostcompletelyafter30secondsit’sunderworked.
5.Fillapipingbagfittedwithamedium-sizenozzle.
6. On a tray linedwith baking paper, pipe themacaroons in staggered rows. Stick thepapertothetraywithalittlebitofmacaroonmixorputasmallmouldineachcornerofthetraytostopthefanfromblowingitaway.
7.Restthemacaroonsfor1houratroomtemperature,untiltheirtopsstarttodryandformacrust,beforebaking.
8.Bakethemacaroonsonthe topshelfof theoven(toprotect themfromthefan)for7minutesat150°/300°F/GasMark2, thenturnthetrayandbakeforanother3–4minutesaccordingtothesizeofyourmacaroons.Coolonthetray.
9.Fillthemacaroons:pick2macaroonsofthesamesize,placealittlebitofcreaminsideone of them, put the second one on top of it and press gently. Place in the fridge andremove10–20minutesbeforeserving.
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GOODTOKNOW
1.Youcanjudgethequalityofyourmacaroonmixwhenitispipedontothebakingtray:if it doesn’t flatten out evenly, it is underworked; if it spreads out excessively, it’soverworked.
2.Theperfectmacaroonmustbechewyinside:iftheyaredrytheyhavebeenovercooked.If some humidity stains appear on their tops while cooling, they are undercooked andrequireanextra2minutesintheoven.
3.Themacaroonshellscanbefrozenwithoutfilling.
4.Drymacaroonscanbe‘saved’byfillingthemwiththecreamandkeepingtheminthefridgefor24hours.Theywillabsorbthehumidityofthecreamandbecomechewy.
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Raspberrymacaroons
MACARONSÀLAFRAMBOISE
Ialwaystrynottouseanyfoodcolouringinpâtisserie.However,macaroonsaretheonlyexception.Thecolourofthemacaroonshellismeanttorepresentitsflavour.Forexample,
adeep-pinkcolourisusedtorepresentafreshraspberrymacaroon.Makesapproximately35/Preparationtime:20+10minutesRestingtimeatroomtemperature:1hour/Bakingtime:9–11minutesat150°C/300F/GasMark2Youwillneedabakingtraycoveredwithbaking
paper(30×40cm)
INGREDIENTS
125ggroundalmonds
225gicingsugar
3eggwhites(120g)
20gcastersugar
redfoodcolouring
Fortheraspberrycream
200mlfreshdoublecream
30gcastersugar
60gfreshraspberries
1.Makethemacaroonsfollowingthemethodonpage226.
2.Fortheraspberrycream,whiskthecreamwiththecastersugaruntilitstartstothicken,thenaddthefreshraspberriesandkeepwhiskinguntilthemixtureisstiff.Theraspberrycream tends to loosenup in the fridge after a fewhours andmightneed tobewhiskedagain.
3.Fillapipingbagfittedwithamedium-sizenozzlewiththeraspberrycreamandfillthemacaroons. Keep in the fridge and allow 10minutes at room temperature to warm upbeforeserving.
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Lemonmacaroons
MACARONSAUCITRON
Allkindsofextravagantflavoursofmacaroonscannowbefoundinpâtisserieshops.Butsometimesaclassicandsimpleflavourlikelemontogetherwithacrispyalmondshellis
justright.Makesapproximately35/Preparationtime:20+10minutesRestingtimeatroomtemperature:1hour/Bakingtime:9–11minutesat150°C/300F/GasMark2Youwillneedabakingtraycoveredwithbaking
paper(30×40cm)
INGREDIENTS
Forthemacaroons
125ggroundalmonds
225gicingsugar
3eggwhites(120g)
20gcastersugaryellowfoodcolouring
Forthelemoncream
300mlfreshdoublecream
50gcastersugar
1gratedlemonzest
60mllemonjuice
1.Makethemacaroonsfollowingthemethodonpage226.
2.Forthelemoncream,whiskthecreamwiththecastersugarandlemonzestuntilitstartstothicken,thenaddthelemonjuiceandkeepwhiskinguntilit’sstiff.
3.Fill apipingbag fittedwith amedium-sizenozzlewith the lemoncreamand fill themacaroons. Store in the fridge and allow 10minutes at room temperature to warm upbeforeserving.
GOODTOKNOW
Theclassicmacaroonsaremadeofgroundalmondsandfoodcolouring.Theflavourofthefilling(cream,ganacheorjam)andthecolouroftheshellswilldeterminetheflavourofthemacaroons.
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Hazelnutandmilkchocolatemacaroons
MACARONSÀLANOISETTEETAUCHOCOLATAULAIT
Macaroonshellsmadewithgroundhazelnutsinsteadofgroundalmondsaresomethingalittlebitmoreunusual.It’sacompletelydifferenttastethatIrecommendyoutotry.Makesapproximately35/Preparationtime:20+10minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:2hours/
Restingtimeatroomtemperature:1hour/Bakingtime:9–11minutesat150°C/300F/GasMark2/Youwillneedabakingtraycoveredwithbakingpaper(30×40cm)
INGREDIENTS
Forthemilkchocolatemousse
100gmilkchocolate,chopped
100mlfreshdoublecream
250mlfreshdoublecream,softlywhipped
Forthehazelnutmacaroons
125ggroundhazelnuts
225gicingsugar
3eggwhites(120g)
20gcastersugar
1.Forthemilkchocolatemousse,placethechoppedchocolateinalargebowl.Bringthecreamtotheboilandpouritoverthechocolate,stirringwithaspatulauntilitmelts.Coolatroomtemperaturefor10minutes,thenfoldinthewhippedcream.Setinthefridgeforaminimumof2hours(seethewhitechocolateandvanillamoussemethodonpage82).
2.Makethemacaroonsfollowingthemethodonpage226.
3.Fillapipingbagfittedwithamedium-sizenozzlewiththemilkchocolatemousseandfillthemacaroons.Storeinthefridgeandallow10minutesatroomtemperaturetowarmupbeforeserving.
GOODTOKNOW
The macaroons can be made with various kinds of nut powders (almond, hazelnut,pistachio,peanut,pecan).Thetextureandthelookofthemacaroonsmaychangealittleaccordingtothefatcontentineachnutpowder.
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Flakedalmondtuiles
TUILESAUXAMANDESEFFILÉES
Deliciousandcrispy,theseflakedalmondstuilescanbeservedwithachocolatemousse(page62),vanillaicecream(page26)orcrèmebrûlée(page180).Theyarealsoperfect
withanicecupofteaorcoffee.Serves8(25tuiles)/Preparationtime:15minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:4hoursBakingtime:12–15minutesat150°C/300°F/GasMark2/Youwillneed2bakingtrayscoveredwithasiliconemator2
non-stickbakingtrays(30×40cm)
INGREDIENTS
25gsoftbutter
125gcastersugar
40gplainflour
50mlfreshorangejuice,sieved
65gflakedalmonds
1.Usinganelectricmixerfittedwithapaddle,mixthebutter,castersugarandflouruntilithasanevenconsistency.Thenslowlyincorporatethefreshorangejuice.
2.Byhandwithaspatula,stirintheflakedalmondsandthenrestthemixtureinthefridgeforaminimumof4hoursbeforeuse.
3.Onanon-stickbakingtrayoratraylinedwithasiliconemat,place12teaspoonfulsofmixinstaggeredrows,separatedby15cm.Flattenthemoutwithyourfingertipsandformthemintoaroundshape.Bakeonahighshelfintheoven(abovethefan)for10minutes,thenturnthetrayandcontinuecookingforanother3–5minutesuntilgoldenbrown.
4.Cool the tuileson the tray for2minutes then lift themupwith aplastic scraper andshapethemaroundarollingpin.Storeinanairtightcontainer.
5.Repeatsteps3and4untilallthemixturehasbeenused.
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Darkchocolateflorentines
FLORENTINSAUCHOCOLATNOIR
OriginallyfromBrittanyinnorthernFrance,thesebiscuitscanalsobecoatedwithmilkorwhitechocolate.Irecommendyouenjoythemwithastrongcoffeeattheendofamealor
asanafternoontreat.Serves8/Preparationtime:15+15minutesBakingtime:14–16minutesat150°C/300°F/GasMark2You
willneed2bakingtrayscoveredwithasiliconemator2non-stickbakingtrays(30×40cm)
INGREDIENTS
100gcastersugar
50gplainflour
120mlfreshdoublecream
25grunnyhoney
15gbutter
125gflakedalmonds
60gorangepeel
60glemonpeel
Forthechocolateicing
120gdarkchocolate(70%),chopped
10gbutter
1.Mixtheplainflourwiththecastersugarandpassthoughaveryfinesieve.
2.Putthecream,honeyandbutterinapanandbringitslowlytotheboil.Offtheheat,incorporatethesiftedflourandcastersugarallinonego,stirwithawhiskandbringthemixbacktotheboil.Removethepanfromtheheatanduseaspatulatoincorporatetheflakedalmonds,orangeandlemonpeel.
3.On2trayslinedwithasiliconemator2non-stickbakingtrays,placesmallquantitiesofmixinstaggeredrowsusingateaspoon(metalringscanbeusedtocontroltheshapeofthe florentines while baking). Flatten them out using your fingertips and bake for 10minutes,thenturnthetrayandcontinuebakingfor4–6extraminutesuntilgoldenbrown.Coolonthetray(themetalringsmustberemovedwhiletheyarestillwarm,withaknifetip).
4. Tomake the chocolate icing, put the chocolate and butter in a bowl andmelt in themicrowaveatamediumpower for1minute, thencheckandstirwitha spatula.Repeatthisstepevery30secondsuntilbotharemelted.Alternatively,meltthemslowlyinabain-
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marie(seepage24).
5. Turn the florentines upside down and spread over a teaspoon of chocolate icing.Decoratethemusingaforkoradecoratingcombandleavethechocolatetosetatroomtemperature.
6.Thedarkchocolateflorentineswillkeepforafewdaysinanairtightcontainer.
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Bretonsbiscuits
GALETTESBRETONNES
Lightandcrispy,thesearegreatservedwithacrèmecaramel(page182)orbavarois(page186).SaltedbutteristraditionallyusedinBrittany,but130gofunsaltedbutterand2gof
saltcanbeusedinstead.Makesapproximately25/Preparationtime:10minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:2hoursBakingtime:10–11minutesat170°C/325°F/GasMark3Youwillneed2bakingtrayscoveredwithasilicone
mator2non-stickbakingtrays(30×40cm)
INGREDIENTS
130gsoftsaltedbutter
135gcastersugar
230gplainflour
7gbakingpowder
1mediumegg
1.Creamthebutterwiththecastersugarusinganelectricmixerfittedwithapaddle,orinalargebowlwithaspatula.
2.Addtheplainflourandbakingpowder,andworkthemixuntilithasasandytexture.Incorporatetheegg.
3.Roll thebiscuitmixtureintoasausageshape4cmindiameter,wrapinclingfilmandplaceinthefridgefor2hours.
4.Cutthebiscuitmixinto1cmwideslices.Putthemon2non-stickbakingtraysor2trayscoveredwithasiliconemat instaggeredrows,5cmapart.Bakefor8minutes, thenturnthetrays,andcontinuebakingforanother2–3minutesuntilgolden.Coolonthetrays.
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Nini’ssablésbiscuits
SABLÉSDENINI
MysisterStéphanie,orNini,usedtomakethesebiscuitsallthetimewhenwewereteenagers.Denseandcrumbly,thesesabléscouldbecomparedtoshortbread.Theyare
idealforlunchboxes.Makesapproximately25/Preparationtime:10minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:2hoursBakingtime:14–16minutesat170°C/325°F/GasMark3Youwillneed2bakingtrayscoveredwithasilicone
mator2non-stickbakingtrays(30×40cm)
INGREDIENTS
250gplainflour
125gcastersugar
1pinchsalt
125gsoftbutter
1mediumegg
100gdemerarasugar
1.Work the flour, caster sugar, salt and butter into a sandy texture by hand or use anelectricmixerfittedwithapaddle.Incorporatetheegg.
2.Rollthebiscuitmixintoasausageshape,5cmindiameter.Sprinklethedemerarasugarontheworksurfaceandrollthebiscuitmixacrossit.Wrapinclingfilmandplaceinthefridgefor2hours.
3.Cutthebiscuitmixinto1cmthickslices.Putthemonthenonstickbakingtrays(or2baking trays covered with a silicone mat) in staggered rows, 5cm apart. Bake for 12minutesthenturnthetrayandcontinuebakingforanother2–4minutesuntilgolden.Coolonthetray.
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Fingerbiscuits
LANGUES-DE-CHAT
Ican’tresistgivingyoutheliteraltranslationofLangues-de-chat:it’s‘cat’stongue’.IwillleaveyoutoimaginethesillygamesplayedbychildreninFrance.Thesefingerbiscuits
workwellservedwithacrèmebrûlée(page180),vanillaicecream(page26)orfreshfruitsalad.
Makesapproximately30/Preparationtime:15minutesBakingtime:5–6minutesat200°C/400°F/GasMark6Youwillneed2bakingtrayscoveredwithasiliconemat(30×40cm)
INGREDIENTS
60gsoftbutter
40gcastersugar
70gplainflour
1mediumegg
1teaspoonvanillaextract
1.Inabowl,mixthesoftbutterwiththecastersugarusingaspatula.Addtheflour,thenthe egg, vanilla extract and combine. This can also be done in a food processor or anelectricmixerfittedwithapaddle.
2.Fillapipingbagfittedwithasmallnozzle(oruseateaspoon).
3. On 2 trays lined with a silicone mat, pipe the finger biscuits in 6cm-long lines, instaggeredrows,with3cmgapsinbetween.
4.Bakefor4minutesandthenturnthetraysandbakeforanextraminuteor2.Coolonthetrays.
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Rolledbiscuits
CIGARETTESRUSSES
Lightandcrispy,rolledbiscuitsareidealservedwithadarkchocolateandorangemousse(page184)orvanillaicecream(page26).
Makesapproximately40/Preparationtime:15minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:1hourBakingtime:5–6minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3/Youwillneed2bakingtrayscoveredwithasiliconemator2
non-stickbakingtrays(30×40cm)
INGREDIENTS
100gbutter
100gicingsugar
75gplainflour
3eggwhites(120g)
1.Putthebutterandicingsugarinafoodprocessorandmixuntilwellcombined.
2.Add all of the flour and process for 1minute. Scrape the inside of the bowlwith aspatula.
3.Finally,incorporatetheeggwhitesoneatatime,withoutoverworkingthemix.Restinthefridgefor1hour.
4. On 2 non-stick baking trays or trays lined with a silicone mat, spread about 12teaspoonfulsofthemixture,usingthebackoftheteaspoontoshape.Trytobeasroundandregularaspossible.
5.One trayata time,bake thebiscuits for4minutes then turn the tray in theovenandbakeforanother1or2minutes.Therolledbiscuitsmustbegoldenbrownontheedgesandstillalittlepaleinthemiddle.
6.Peelonebiscuitoffthetrayusingaplasticscraper.Turnitoveronthetrayandrollthecigarettestartingatoneend.Pressonthecigarettelightlytosealthejoint.
7.Repeatstep6foreachcigarette.Astheystarttocool,putthetraybackintheovenfor1minutetowarmupthebiscuitsandfinishrollingthem.
GOODTOKNOW
Thebiscuitscanalsoberolledaroundathinwoodenstickfollowingthesamemethod.
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Frenchmeringues
MERINGUESFRANÇAISES
Crispyandmelt-in-the-mouth,FrenchmeringuescanbeservedasadessertwithfreshstrawberriesandChantillycream(page34)orcanbeenjoyedontheirown.
Serves12/Preparationtime:15minutesBakingtime:30–40minutesat110°C/225°F/GasMark¼Youwillneed2bakingtrayscoveredwithasiliconematorbakingpaper(30×40cm)
INGREDIENTS
4eggwhites(150g)
140gcastersugar
140gicingsugar
30gflakedalmonds(optional)
20gicingsugar,todust(optional)
1.Whisktheeggwhiteswiththecastersugartofirmpeaks(seepage38)usinganelectricmixeratmediumspeed.Itwilltakeabout10minutes.
2. Sift the icing sugar and use a spatula to incorporate it in one additionwith the eggwhites,withoutoverworkingit.
3.FillapipingbagfittedwithalargeflutednozzleandpipetheFrenchmeringuesonto2trayslinedwithbakingpaperorsiliconemat.
4.Sprinklethemeringueswithflakedalmondsandicingsugar,ifusing.
5.Bakeslowlyfor30–40minutesaccordingtotheirsize.Leavethemtocooldownanddryinsidetheswitched-offovenfor4hours.
GOODTOKNOW
Thesamerecipecanbeusedtomakechewypavlovas.Thebakingtimewillbe25minutesforindividualpavlovasand40minutesat120°C/250°F/GasMark½foralargeone.
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Spongefingers
BISCUITSÀLACUILLÈRE
Spongefingersareusedinthemakingofcharlottes(page208)andtiramisu,sometimessoakedinasyrup.Verylightandbutterfree,theyarealsodeliciousontheirownandmake
asuccessfulsnackforthelunchbox.Makes40/Preparationtime:20minutesBakingtime:8–10minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3Youwill
need2bakingtrayscoveredwithasiliconemat(30×40cm)
INGREDIENTS
3eggs,separated(120g)
70gcastersugar
75gplainflour,sifted
50gicingsugar,todust
1.Whisk the egg whites with the caster sugar to a stiff meringue (page 38) using anelectricmixeratmediumspeed.
2.Reduce the speedof themixer to lowand incorporate theeggyolks to themeringuewithout overworking the mix. Then by hand, fold in the flour in 3 additions, using aspatula.
3.Fillapipingbagfittedwithalargenozzle.
4.On2trayslinedwithasiliconemat,pipethespongefingersin5cmlines,instaggeredrows,leaving3cmgapsbetweeneach.
5.Dustthespongefingerswithicingsugarandletthemmeltatroomtemperaturefor15minutes.Dust the sponge fingers a second time before baking until evenly light beige.Coolonatray.Themeltedicingsugarwillformthesugarpearlsyoucanseeontopofthebiscuits.
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Heart-shapedbiscuits
PALMIERS
Heart-shapedbiscuitsaremadeofcaramelizedpuffpastry.Thisrecipeisagoodwaytouseupsmallpiecesofunusedpuffpastry.Enjoythepalmiersontheirownorservedwith
floatingislands(page178)orlemonsoufflé(page188).Makesapproximately20/Preparationtime:40+15minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:2½hours+15minutes/Bakingtime:10–15minutesat170°C/325°F/GasMark3Youwillneed2non-stickbakingtrays
INGREDIENTS
300gpuffpastryorchocolatepuffpastry(seepages12and112)
50gicingsugar
1beatenegg
1.Makethepuffpastryfollowingthemethodonpage12.Thisstepcanbedonethedaybefore.
2.Rolloutthepuffpastrywithsomeicingsugarintoa20×30cmrectangle,5mmthick.Icingsugar isused insteadof flour tostop thepastryfromsticking to theworksurface.Someofitwillbeabsorbedbythepastry,andcaramelizeduringbaking.
3.Removetheexcessicingsugarwithabrushoryourfingertipsandplaceoneoftheshortsidesoftherectangleinfrontofyou.Brush2bands7cmwidewithaverythinlayerofbeaten egg (at the top and at the bottom of the rectangle) and fold them towards themiddle,leavinga2cmgapinthecentre.Brushthebottomsectionwithaverythinlayerofeggand fold itover the top section.Younowhavea20×8cmwidthways rectangle infrontofyou.
4.Cutthe20cmrectangleinto20pieces1cmwideandputthemontheirsideonanon-sticktray,instaggeredrows,10cmapart.Thefoldsarenowappearingandyoucanstarttoseea flatheat-shape form.Place in the fridge for15minutesbeforebaking.Theheart-shapeformwillappearduringthebakingofthesugar-coatedpuffpastry.
5.Bake thebiscuits for10minutes, turn the traysandcontinue tobake foranother2–5minutes,untilthebiscuitsaregoldenbrownbutnottoodark.
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Crispcinnamonbiscuits
ARLETTESÀLACANNELLE
Thisrecipewillallowyoutouseupallthepuffpastrytrimmings.Servethecrispcinnamonbiscuitwithcrèmecaramel(page182)ordarkchocolateandorangemousse
(page184).Makesapproximately30/Preparationtime:20minutes/Restingtimeinthefreezer:2hoursRestingtimeinthefridge:30minutes/Bakingtime:10–14minutesat180°C/350°F/GasMark4Youwillneed2
non-stickbakingtrays
INGREDIENTS
200gpuffpastryorpuffpastrytrimmings(seepage12,piledupcarefullyontopofeachother)
20gbutter
50gicingsugar
½teaspoongroundcinnamon
1. Make the puff pastry following the method on page 12. This can be done the daybefore.
2.Meltthebutterinapan.Rolloutthepuffpastryintoarectangle,2mmthick,andbrushitwithbutter.Rollthepastryintoasausageshape,andputitinthefreezerfor2hours.
3.Mixtheicingsugarwiththecinnamonusingaforkandspreaditoutonaplate.
4.Removethepuffpastryfromthefreezerandcutitwithasharpknifeinto3mmslices.
5.Coateachslicewithcinnamonicingsugarandrollthemoutverythinlyinordertogetawaffle-thinpastry,10cmindiameter,usingasmuchcinnamonicingsugarasneeded.
6. Place the crisp cinnamon biscuits between 2 sheets of baking paper, then between 2baking trays to keep them flat, and put them in the fridge for 30minutes. Bake for 8minutesthenturnthetraysandbakeforanother2–4minutesuntiltheyaregoldenbrown.Coolonawirerack.
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Acknowledgements
TomysisterIsabelleValette.It’sbeenanincrediblejourney,andaverylongonetoo!Ithasbeen threeyearssince thatextraordinaryevening(with justa littlebit toomuchredwine)onyourOsloterracewhenitallstarted.Isa, thankyouformakingmeunderstandthattheonlylimitsareinourmindsandforbeingthereformeeverystepoftheway.
ToAnnabelleCoelhoandGregBartholomew.ThankyouAnnabelleforyourconstantsupportandencouragementwhenImostneededit!You’reanamazingfriend.Thankyoubothforyourtimeandadvice,andforpatientlygoingoverthemanuscriptinaveryshortperiodoftime.
AspecialthankyoutoMirandaandPontusCarminger,OckendenManor’sownersandmysponsors,forfinancingthephotoshootsandallowingmetousethefacilitiestotesttherecipes,aswellasorganisethephotosessions.Thankyouforbelievinginmeatanearlystageofthebookandmakingtheadventurepossible.AspecialthankstoStephenCrane,OckendenManor’s head chef, for creating inventive schedules that allowedme to bothwriteandworkatthesametime.AreallybigthankstoMarkCharker,thejuniorsous-chef(andmynumberone),AlasdairMulveyandJackAmstrongforcoveringformeinpastry.Thank you Adam Smith, OckendenManor’s manager, for your guidance, support andadvice.ThankyouStuartDolby(assistantrestaurantmanager),WilliamSpalla(restaurantmanager), Vincent Fayat (sous-chef), SueMaxted and Tiffani Thompson for your helpduring the photo shoots. A big thanks to all my colleagues for tasting the recipes andgivingmefeedback.Ilovedsharingthatexperiencewithyouall.
Thank you Lisa Devlin, an amazing and gifted photographer, for your wonderfulpictures and designing skills. Working with you was inspiring on so many levels andreally fun too. The bookwould not have looked the samewithout you. Thanks PoppyBartholomewforyourlegalexpertise.
Ahugethankstomypublishers,NikkiReadandGilesLewisformakingmydreamofwritingacookbook inEnglisha reality! Iwouldalso like to thankeveryoneatHowToBooksandConstable&Robinson:JoStansall,NickiGyopari,IanHughesandeveryonewhoworkedonthisbook.
Tomy family,my supporting team.ThankyouMaman for all the great inspiration,pastry talksand for sendingmesomepiecesofFranceandhomefor thephotosshoots.Thanks Papa for your strategic advice, and my sisters Stéphanie Valette and EmilieValette, for taking so many nice family pictures. Thanks Øyvind Remme and BorisPageaux for the IT support at keymoments and, a specialmerci toØyvind formakinggreat dinners for Isa and me when we needed to hold it together. A big thanks to
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AngéliqueSalvagnac,Marie-PauleSalvagnac,GuySalvagnac, Jean-PhilippeSalvagnac,Thibault Chaudières, Eric Chirio and my very young commis chef twins Antoine andClaraChirio,togetherwithPaulChirioforyourhelpduringthephotoshootsinFrance.
Thisbookhasbeenafamilyaffair!I’msogladthatyouareallapartofthisadventure,thereisalittleofeachofyouinit.Detoutcœur,merci.
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Index
almondcream(lacrèmed’amande)30
almondcroissants,howtorollup138
Alsatianappletart(tarteAlsacienneauxpommes)52
appleandblackberryturnovers(chaussonsauxpommesetàlamûre)106
appleandcinnamontart(tarteauxpommesetàlacannelle)44
appletartTatin(tarteTatinauxpommes)96
apricotandalmondtart(tarteamandineauxabricots)66
apricotfinanciers(financiersàl’abricot)222
apricotjamrouladecake(biscuitrouléàlaconfitured’abricot)192
Aveyronprunetart(tarteauxpruneauxAveyronnaise)156
bakedAlaska(omelettenorvégienne)200
basictechniques5–40
Basquecustardandblackcherrypie(gâteauBasque)74
BlackForestgateau(forêt-noire)216
blueberryandlemontart(tarteauxmyrtillescitronnées)56
Bretonsbiscuits(galettesBretonnes)238
briochedough(lapâteàbrioche)20
buttercream(lacrèmeaubeurre)32
cannelés(cannelésbordelaise)224
caramel,howtomakea126
caramelizedlemontart(tartecaraméliséeaucitron)60
Chantillychoux(chouxChantilly)116
Chantillycream(lacrèmeChantilly)34
cherryandcinnamonbriochetart(tartebriochéeauxcerises)158
cherryandhazelnutpithiviers(pithiviersàlanoisetteetauxcerises)104
cherryclafoutis(clafoutisauxcerises)166
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chestnutandpearcharlotte(charlotteàlachâtaigneetauxpoires)208
chocolateandorangecake(reinedesabaàl’orange)214
chocolateéclairs(éclairsauchocolat)118
chocolatemoussefilling,howtomakeadark62
chocolateprofiteroles(profiterolesauchocolat)120
chocolateshavings,howtomake204
chocolateViennabreads(painsViennoisauchocolat)150
chouxpastry(lapâteàchoux)14,115–34
coffee,vanillaandchocolatebavarois(bavaroiscafé,vanilleetchocolat)186
coffeemoka(mokaaucafé)198
crèmeanglaise26
crèmepâtissière28
crispcinnamonbiscuits(arlettesàlacannelle)252
croissantdough(lapâteàcroissants)16,18
croissants,almondcroissants,painsauchocolatandpainsauxraisins144
croissants,howtorollup136
darkchocolateandlemonmadeleines(madeleinesaucitronetauchocolatnoir)220
darkchocolateandorangemousse(mousseauchocolatnoiràl’orange)184
darkchocolateflorentines(florentinsauchocolatnoir)236
darkchocolatemillefeuille(mille-feuilletoutchocolat)112
deliciouslylightchocolatetart(tarteauchocolatdélicieusementlégère)64
doublechocolateandraspberrysponge(framboisierauxdeuxchocolats)206
EarlGreycrèmebrûlée(crèmebrûléeauthéEarlGrey)180
fig,honeyandalmondtart(tarteamandineaumieletauxfigues)68
fineplumtart(tartefineauxprunes)100
fingerbiscuits(langues-de-chat)242
flakedalmondtuiles(tuilesauxamandeseffilées)234
flans,creamsandeggbatters(lesflans,crèmesetdessertsauxoeufs)165–89
floatingislands(oeufsàlaneige)178
Frenchmeringue(lameringueFrançaises)36,246
Frenchtoast(painsperdus)172
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Frenchweddingcake(croquembouche)128
Génoisesponge(lapâteàGénoise)24
greengagetart(tarteauxreines-claudes)48
hazelnutandmilkchocolatemacaroons(macaronsàlanoisetteetauchocolataulait)232
hazelnutdacquoise,howtomakea210
hazelnutlayercake(dacquoiseàlanoisette)212
heart-shapedbiscuits(palmiers)250
icedcoffeecreamchoux(religieuseaucafé)124
Italianmeringue(lameringueItalienne)38
kirschsavarinswithcherrycompote(savarinsaukirsch,compotéedecerises)162
kugelhopf(kouglof)152
lemonmacaroons(macaronsaucitron)230
lemonmeringuepies(tartelettesmeringuéesaucitron)90
lemonsoufflé(souffléaucitron)188
macaroons,howtomake226
mygrandmother’spearclafoutis(clafoutisauxpoiresdemamie)168
mymother’scrèmecaramel(crèmecarameldemamaman)182
mymother’srhubarbtart(tarteàlarhubarbedemaman)46
Nini’ssablésbiscuits(sablésdeNini)240
orangeandGrandMarnierpancakes(crêpessuzette)176
painsauchocolat,howtorollup140
painsauxraisins,howtorollup142
pancakemix,howtomakea174
Parisianbrioches(briochesParisiennes)146
Parisianflantart(flanParisien)54
pastrybase,howtoblindbakea50
pear,chocolateandalmondtart(tarteamandineauchocolatetauxpoires)72
pears,howtopoach70
pinkpralinebrioche(briocheauxpralinesroses)148
pralinechouxcake(Paris-Brest)132
pralineChristmaslog(bûchedenoëlaupraliné)196
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pralinepaste,howtomakeahomemade194
puffpastry(lapâtefeuilletée)12,95–114
raspberryandwhitechocolatetart(tarteauxframboisesetauchocolatblancvanilla)84
raspberrymacaroons(macaronsàlaframboise)228
rocsugarchoux(chouquettes)122
rolledbiscuits(cigarettesrusses)244
risingdoughs135–64
rumbabawithvanillawhippedcream(babaaurhum,crèmefouettéeàlavanille)160
sabléepastry(lapâtesablée)10,79–94
Saint-Honoréchouxcake(Saint-Honoré)130
Saint-Tropeztart(tarteTropézienne)154
savarindough(lapâteàsavarin)22
sourcherryandpistachiotartlets(tartelettesâlapistacheetauxcerisesgriottes)80
spongecakes(lespâtesàbiscuit)192–218
spongefingers(biscuitsàlacuillére)248
strawberryandpistachiocreamsponge(fraisieràlapistache)202
strawberrytart(tarteauxfraises)86
summerfruitspufftartlets(tartelettesfeuilletéesauxfruitsd’été)98
sweetpastry(lapâtesucrée)8,59–78
sweetshortcrustpastry(lapâtebriséesucrée)6,41–58
sweettreats(gourmandises)219–53
tarttin,howtolinea42
TwelfthNightcake:almondpitpithivier(galettedesrois)102
vanillaandwhitechocolatemousse,howtomake82
vanillamillefeuille(mille-feuilleàlavanille)108
walnuttart(tarteauxnoix)76
warmchocolatetartlets(tartelettescoulantestoutchocolat)88
WestIndianflan(flanantillais)170