p Pc Booklet

7/27/2019 p Pc Booklet

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and Tanya Visser

Build a concrete bench

Make your own pavers

Build a concrete pond

Hypertufo

Installing cobbled edging

Lay pebble paving

Building floating steps

Grouted outdoor paving

Creative Cementfor your

Garden DIYswith


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A secluded spot, out of direct sunlight, is the

perfect place for a garden bench. A well-

placed bench invites you to sit and admire

your garden and it also acts as a focal point.

What you need:Shutterboard (22 mm thick) to build the moulds, as

follows:Seat (5 pieces)

Base: 1220 x 400 mm (x 1),

Long sides: 1220 x 90 mm (x 2)

Short sides: 440 x 90 mm (x 2)

Legs (8 pieces)

Wide sides: 200 x 400 mm (x 4),

Narrow sides: 300 x 400 mm (x 4)

wood screws ( 60)

3 x 3-m quadrants

35 mm flat head wire nails ( 30)

1 bag PPC cement

3 bags river sand

2 bags 19 mm crushed stone

Build aconcrete bench

1 m BRC mesh

2.8mm gauge

(190 x 210 mm)

80 grit

sandpaper

Toolsmitre box

float, wood or

plastic

drill

saw

paintbrush

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Step 1. Build the boxes that will form the

moulds. Start with the seat, joining the sides and

the base by first drilling holes and then screw-

ing them together. Make two identical boxes for

the legs as above. The boxes for the legs dont

have a base; you should place them on a flat

board to fill them.Step 2. The lengths of quadrant must be sawn

to size so that they can be used to line all the

inside corners of the three boxes. Cut the ends

of the quadrant for the seat at a 45 angle, using

the mitre box. Now fit these pieces into the

corners of the boxes (curved side outwards)

and nail them in place. This completes the

moulds. Now cut the BRC mesh to size you

need a layer for the seat and a piece for each of

the legs.

Step 3. Mix the cement, using 1 part cement, 1

part stone and 1 part river sand (this 1:1:1 ratio

ensures strength). Add enough water to get themix to a yoghurt-like consistency. You need

the mixture to be fairly sloppy because you will

be pouring the concrete into the moulds.

Step 4. For the seat: fill the box three quarters

with concrete, put down the layer of BRC mesh,

then fill the remainder of the box with concrete.

Use the float to agitate the mixture so that thereare no air pockets left in the concrete. For the

legs: make sure the boxes are standing on a

level piece of board then place the BRC mesh

inside them and fill them with concrete.

Step 5. Wait! The concrete must cure for 14

days. Thereafter unscrew the boxes to reveal

your handiwork. Any sharp bits and rough

places can be gently sanded smooth with

sandpaper. Brush off the resulting powder with a

dry paintbrush. (Keep the moulds they can be

reused.)

Step 6. Place the legs in position and lower the

seat onto them, and your bench is ready to use.

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This is a great way to get young children to

go out and play in the garden. Creating this

permanent hopscotch court with custom-made pavers was quick, easy and a lot of fun.

Of course, you dont have to stop at hop-

scotch, they can also be used anywhere else

you would use bought pavers.

What you needMoulds round, square or both. (We made all the

pavers at one time, and used 5 round and 6 square

moulds)

1 bag PPC cement

3 bags river sand

3 bags small stone (no larger than 13 mm in size)

cooking oiloxide 500 g is enough for 2 pavers. This is not

essential, but means you can vary the colour of the

pavers

Make your ownpavers


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Toolsbucket trowelspirit level spade

plastic sheet rubber mallet

Numbers: This is where your children

can get involved. Create the numbers,

using anything appropriate lyingaround the house, including shells,

stones, glass beads, old coins, broken

tiles and mosaic tiles. Form the numbers

on wax paper, using a silicon-based

glue. Be generous with the glue on the

bases of the bits and pieces because it

stops the concrete from covering thenumbers. NB: Make sure the numbers

are formed BACKWARDS on the paper so

that they will be the correct way

around when the pavers are removed

from the moulds.

Step 1. Coat the inside of each mould

generously with cooking oil. This

makes the concrete easy to unmould

when dry. Place the moulds on a flat

surface and put the numbers, still

attached to the paper and with the

paper side down, in the moulds.Step 2. Mix the cement, sand and

stone together in this ratio: 1 part

cement to 2 parts river sand to 3 parts

stone. Add enough water to form a

workable concrete mixture. For col-

oured pavers divide the concrete and

mix in the oxide/s (if you are colouringthem all in a single colour then add the

oxide to the cement powder before

adding water).

Step 3. Fill each mould and use a

trowel to smooth the concrete. Cover

the moulds with plastic and leave for 24

hours before turning out. Remove thewax paper and the silicon to reveal the

numbers. For the first three days ensure

the pavers remain wet so they do not

crack, thereafter ensure that they are

handled carefully until fully cured,

which will take about two weeks.Step 4. The moulds can be reused;

wash them with dishwashing liquid and

dry them before storing.

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Water features are one of the most sought-

after of landscaping elements, not least

because they lend such a calming atmosphere

to a garden. This in-ground pond is perfect

it is simple to build and can take any shape

you like.

What you need:2 bags PPC cement

20 bags river sand

2 kg powdered waterproofing agent

15 m x 4mm galvanised wire

1.5 m thinner wire for tying galvanised wire

Toolstrowel or float

wire cutters

pliers

Build aconcrete pond

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Step 1. After choosing where to site the pond, diga hole to these dimensions: 1500mm long x 700 mm

wide x 500 mm deep.

Step 2. Mix 5 parts of river sand with 1 part cement,

add the waterproofing agent and mix well. Add

water, bit by bit, until the mixture reaches a stiff

porridge-like consistency. It should be able to form

a ball and hold together.Step 3. Start at the base of the hole and, using a

trowel, pack the concrete mixture into the sand to a

thickness of 50 mm. Move from one end to the other

and up the sides. Make sure the concrete is packed

tight to prevent air pockets and make it as smooth

as possible. This should take about 3 hours to

complete.Step 4. Using strips

of galvanised wire

tied together with the

thinner wire, create a

basket-shaped wire

form to reinforce the

pond. Put the form in

the hole and, if

necessary, tack to

the cement base

using 10 mm long U-

shaped nails.

Step 5. Mix a second batch of concrete and layanother 50 mm layer over the entire pond, making

sure the wire reinforcing is covered completely.

Step 6. Leave the pond to cure for at least a week.

From time to time use water to dampen the con-

crete; this will reduce cracking as it cures or simply

fill the pond with water once the concrete has

hardened enough.Step 7. Once the concrete is cured place a layer of

slate (or pavers) around the edge, interspersed with

pebbles. Water loving plants in and around the pond

will complete the look, and a bubbling pump will

help circulate and aerate the water.

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Hypertufa

Hypertufa, which was invented for use inalpine gardens, is a manufactured substitutefor tufa the porous rock that forms aroundmineral water springs. Alpine gardenerstraditionally used antique animal water troughsas planters, but there was obviously a limitedsupply of these. Containers made withhypertufa are more porous and much lighterthan the water troughs, so they are idealalternatives. Hypertufa planters in the originaltrough shape are still popular, however, it is

possible to use it to make many shapes.

What you need:PPC cement

Peat (the finer the better)

Plastic basin and loose plastic

Step 1. Mix 1 part cement to 2 parts peatand add water until the mixture can hold its

shape.

Step 2. Line the basin with the plastic it

does not have to be smooth as the creases

give the pots surface extra texture. Pack a

layer of the cement mixture into the basin,

covering the bottom and sides to a depth of2 to 3 cm.

Step 3. Make a drainage hole in the centre

of the base. Leave to dry, at least overnight,

then remove the pot from the basin.

Add more character: After youve placed

the plastic inside the mould (and before youpack in the cement) line the sides with some

dried sphagnum moss.

You will find peat and dried sphagnum moss at garden centres.

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It is attention to detail that

makes a good garden great, and

well-laid edging is certainly a

prerequisite. Cobbles are easy

to install and come in a variety

of colours use them to edge a

pathway or a bed and take it

from good to great.

Installingcobbled

edging

What you need5 kg PPC cement

1 bag river sand

Cobbles

Toolsspade

trowel

rubber mallet

Step 1. Prepare the area: remove

any grass in a strip slightly wider that

the width of the cobbles, then dig a

small furrow, making its depth a little

more than the height of the cobbles.

Step 2. Mix 4 parts river sand to 1

part cement and add enough waterto form a mixture with the consist-

ency of thick whipped cream.

Step 3. Using a trowel, place a layer

of the mortar along the base of the

furrow. Place your first cobble on

the mortar and tap it gently with the

mallet to seat it in the mixture. Makesure that it does not stick out above

the adjoining lawn (especially when

the lawn is at its ideal height). Slide

the next cobble flush against the

first one so that there is no gap

between them. After laying 4 or 5

cobbles test their levels with the

spirit level and tap them into place

with the mallet where necessary.

Proceed in this manner until all the

cobbles are in place.

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Different textures in a garden make it more

interesting. Pebble paving is an intriguing way

to incorporate a new texture into the hard

landscaping there are so many different

colours and sizes of pebbles available that theskys the limit.

What you needPPC cement

Pebbles (round or egg

shaped) you will need 40 kg

for every square metre to

be covered

River sand

Toolsplastic float or wood

blockrubber gloves

rubber mallet

trowel and bucket

Lay pebblepaving


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Step 1. The area to be paved must be enclosed by a

border. If you are not laying the pebbles within anexisting frame then prepare the border first cobbles

and pavers are good options. Next, prepare the area

to be pebble-paved by digging out the soil to a depth

of 50 mm and then making sure the new surface is

level.

Step 2. Mix 4 parts sand to 1 part cement and addenough water to make a dryish mixture. Pour it into

the dug out area, filling it almost to the top. Level and

compact it with a float or block of wood. If you intend

placing the pebbles in a particular pattern then draw

or trace the pattern into the mortar at this point.

Step 3. Start putting the pebbles in place, working

from the centre of the design outwards, and ensuringeach pebble is embedded in the mortar. When the

area is filled with the pebbles ensure they are level

by placing a plank across them and tapping it with a

rubber mallet.

Step 4. For the grouting make a slurry of cement and

water (it should be the consistency of runny

yoghurt). Pour it over the pebbles so that it fills all thespaces between them and then leave it to set for one

hour. (If the mixture has splashed onto the surround-

ing pavers or cobbles then clean it off immediately.)

Step 5. Use a hose with very fine spray to wash the

cement off the pebbles, taking care not to wash the

mix out from between them. Use a sponge to clean

left over cement off the pebbles and dab up the

excess moisture.


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A front entrance should be the most welcom-

ing part of a garden and floating stepsleading up to the front door certainly lend

maximum appeal. Make sure the size of the

steps is in scale with the size of the door a

double door requires wide rectangles that

make a bold statement.

What you need (per step)Shutterboard (22 mm thick), 5 pieces, as follows:

1800 mm x 100 mm (x 2)

750 mm x 100 mm (x 2)

800 mm x 100 mm (x 1) brace

nails

2 bags PPC cement

4 bags river sand

4 bags stone (19 mm crushed)

1 bag plaster sand

Buildingfloating steps


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Toolsplastic float

corner trowel

Step 1. Floating steps should

be made in situ, especially

when they are long rectan-

gles. Start by compacting and

levelling the area.

Step 2. Make a box mould

using the shutterboard.

Ensure it is perfectly straight

and measure the inside to

make sure the size is correctfor the finished step. Nail the

brace in position across the

top of the box in the centre.

This stops the mould bulging

when the concrete is poured

in.

Step 3. Mix together 4 partsstone, 4 parts sand and 2

parts cement. Add water until

the mixture reaches a pouring

consistency. Pour it into the

mould and pack it down using

the float. Make sure that the

corners are filled. As youwork the cement will rise to

the top and form a smooth

layer.

Step 4. Tap the edges of the

box with a rubber mallet to

remove any air pockets.Leave to cure for at least a

week (preferably longer)

before removing the mould.

Step 5. Plaster the step using

3 parts plaster sand and 1 part

cement mixed with water. Use

a float to make a smooth 10mm layer on the top and sides

of the step. Use a corner

trowel dipped in water to

neaten the edges. When the

plaster finish is nearly dry,

smooth it over using a float in

circular motions. Seal with aconcrete sealer if necessary.

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Using cement to grout the pavers for an

outdoor entertainment area makes it long

lasting and gives it that finishing touch we

all strive for.

What you need5 kg PPC cement

river sand for base

1 bag plaster sand

Sandstone pavers

Toolstrowel

rubber mallet

spirit level

spacer cut from off-cuts of

woodstraight edge (2.2 m)

squeegee

sponge

Groutedoutdoor paving


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Step 1. Prepare the area for the

pavers by removing grass andplants, then put down a layer of

river sand, compact it and level it.

Step 2. If there is no straight

edge from which you can work

then set up a builders line. Next,

decide how big the gaps be-

tween the pavers must be and

cut a piece of wood to this size

to use as a spacer. Start putting

down the pavers, checking their

levels as you work, and using the mallet to tap them

down when necessary. Use the straight edge to

ensure each row is straight before starting the next row.Step 3. For the grouting use 3 parts plaster sand to

1 part cement and enough water to form a mixture

that is the consistency of runny yoghurt. Use a

trowel to pack the mixture into the gaps and use a

squeegee to smooth it over. Do a maximum of 4

linear metres at a time then use a trowel to remove

the excess grouting and use a sponge and water toclean off the pavers, otherwise they may be

permanently stained. Once completed, leave for 48

hours to dry. If it is very hot during this time then

wet the grouting occasionally, using a hose with a

fine spray, to help prevent cracks forming.


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For more advice on cement

please ask your PPC Cement

stockist or call the PPC

toll-free help line

0800 023 470 (SA only)

Visit the website on

www.ppc.co.za

While all information in this brochure

is supplied in good faith, no

responsibility can be accepted by PPC

or the stockist for claims arising from

its use

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