NEWS1

trebicchierimonthly news for wine professionals

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april 2013

PAIRING:PIZZA WITH MORTADELLA

PROWEIN SPECIAL:TRE bICCHIERI TASTING & HARD TO-FIND-WINES

OLTREPò PAvESE: THE THREE FACES OF PINOT NERO

NEWS& MARkET TRENDS

EN PRIMEUR:DON PERIGNON ROSè 2002

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Oltrepò Pavese,Pinot Nero’s Homeland

The number of visiTors To ProWein 2013 has increased WiTh more Than

44,000 Trade visiTors aTTending The Three-day evenT. Hans Werner Reinhard is the vice-director of Messe Dusseldorf, the fair group that organizes ProWein. The first edition was twenty years ago: “350 exhibitors and a space of 2,500 square meters; in 2013, we have 4,783 exhibitors from 43 different countries, and we have 53,000 square meters of space.” This is impressive growth, and in 2012, two other pavilions were added to a fair that is steadily becoming more global. The percentage of international participants grew to 82% (79% in 2012) as did the number of foreign visitors, with a strong presence of traders from Northern Europe, the Low Countries and Russia. “The quality of international exhibitors has improved also, but above all we have worked a great deal on

our visitors’ target, collaborating with sommelier associations from all over Europe. We want to increas the number of visitors from North America and Asia and so we have organized a satellite event for the first time, ProWein China 2013, which will allow us to reach new targets and find new ways of collaborating with Asian traders.” To conclude, a comment about Italian wineries: “They are up 25%, and this year 1180 will attend. Italy has become the most represented country here at ProWein.

TRE bICCHIERI GOES PROWEINDusseldorf enjoys a highly strategic location. This is the area with the highest density of population in the world, 20 kilometers from the Ruhr, the fulcrum of the European commercial zone, the so-called Blue Banana. Gambero Rosso is back here: the Tre Bicchieri event preceded the kick-off of ProWein by 24 hours. A classic formula on the banks of the Rhine: a press

2EvENtS

More Italianexhibitors at ProWein

by Lorenzo Ruggeripresentation of the German version of Vini d’Italia 2013 guide and then the tasting, with over 130 wineries receiving awards. Eight hundred traders and journalists attended, demonstrating the event’s overall growth. “I had a good experience. There were many operators from Germany but also from other countries, above all Austria, Sweden and France,” commented Elena Fucci. The Gambero Rosso-ProWein agreement shows that when Europeans get together and collaborate, success follows. “The event is now an established part of the local scene. We are extremely satisfied. We can only grow from this point on,” said Giuseppe Saitta, owner of three restaurants, excellent examples of Italian cucina in Dusseldorf. Elio Menzione, Italian ambassador to Berlin pointed out: “Italy is the leading country in terms of quantity of wine imported here, and the second in terms of its value. In 2011, exports to Germany generated 946 million euros. Between 2007 and 2011, imports of Italian wines grew 22.5%.”

3

FIRST TIME IN bANGkOk,DELAyS AND OPPORTUNITIES

Bangkok is the city of excess: you can love it for its special mix of history and modernity and curse it for its traffic at the limit of human tolerance. A vibrant city, it is in extraordinary expansion, including its consumption of wine, despite extremely high taxes on local and imported wines as well as complex bureaucratic procedures. The Gambero Rosso Road Show visited Thailand for the first time, and there was no shortage of problems. Because of an unexpected delay at customs, the wines arrived late at the event location. We want to apologize to all the producers and visitors present.The tasting took place at the Dusit Thani Hotel, with which the Gambero is launching a long-term program of cooking and wine-tasting courses.Thailand is a new market which demands new approaches: we will be returning there soon together with the best Italian wineries. Ambassador Michelangelo Pipan opened the event; local wine expert Pairach Intaput and our Marco Sabellico together held a seminar about the thousand facets of Vineyard Italia. At the moment, exports of Italian wine to Thailand amount to under 1% of the entire balance of foreign exports, but opportunities abound. The growing production of Thai wine has stimulated consumption. Up-market wine bars are opening around the city, such as Wine Fusion, which has a well-planned and ample selection of wines. Confirmation of the appeal of this market

comes from Julia Jackson, from the Tenuta di Arceno in Tuscany.

“We were skeptical about this location at first, but we met

with a good reception, an attentive public, and saw a new potential market.” We’ll be back in Bangkok soon to have you taste the best Italian

wines, and hope to reward your trust in us.

EvENtSEvENtS

SINGAPORE ON THE SPOT

Gambero Rosso and its Roadshow has landed in Singapore, the Switzerland of Asia: orderly, clean, and rich, but decidedly cosmopolitan. A city-state was carved out of a forest and is now the fourth principal financial center of the world. Its skyscrapers are home to the most important global banks. A friendly tax system has attracted enormous capital from both Asia and Europe. The city is a place where east and west meet, a contact that is reflected in its restaurants. Italian and Spanish locales are opening rapidly, with a Pan-Asian style predominating. The Gambero Rosso wine event, the second held in the city, brought together a curious and knowledgeable public whose interest in Italian wine is growing exponentially. “The seminars were a great success. Singapore is one of the few cities where both operators and wine fans have shown a thorough understanding of Italy as a wine-growing nation, with Tuscany and Piedmont in pole position. They asked questions that revealed passion and competence,” said Marco Sabellico. “Despite the climate, consumption is very much oriented towards red wines. Bordeaux is still a reference point, but in recent years, the range of wines available in Singapore has exploded. Italian wine has enormous potential, especially because it can offer a quality product at very attractive prices,” journalist Edwin Soon added.

PAOLO bASSO,WORLD’S bEST SOMMELIER

Paolo Basso, Swiss, has been named Best Sommelier in the World by Asi (Association de la sommellerie internationale) after a competition that took place in Tokyo. Among the three finalists were a Belgian, Aristide Spies, and a Canadian, Veronique Rivest, the first woman to be among the winners. The competition, which began on March 27th, started with 54 candidates facing both written and practical tests. After a first round, 12 were chosen to go ahead, among whom was Italian Fabio Masi. The Association de la sommellerie internationale encompasses the professional sommelier associations from 60 countries and is the only association whose competitions are recognized world-wide. These competitions provide the only and the highest recognition for professionals around the globe. Basso, 47, was the Best Sommelier in Europe in 2010. He works at the Conca Balla Restaurant in Vacallo, in the Ticino Canton.

strawberries. The palate is subtle and penetrating, very fresh and fluid, with extraordinary progression and flavor. Tannin is creamy and the finish again presents floral notes and balsamic tones. Only 500 delicious bottes are produced. From Portugal, we cross to Greece and climb Monte Evia, in the northern part of the island of Euboea, the second largest in the country. Alexandros Koutsogiorgakis offers us his Kamares White 2011, a monovarietal from assyrtiko grapes. The nose displays sensations of wisteria and citrus fruit on a delicately smoky background. In the mouth, it is agile and fragrant, with good acidity to guarantee freshness and verve. The finish continues on lightly grassy notes. Simple, charming wine.Our last stop is in Mosel with a great Riesling: Röttgen Goldkapsel Auslese 2010 from the Heymann Löwenstein winery. Reinhard, someone really worth getting to know, outlines for us a territory where slate cuts across vineyards on perilously steep slopes. The high amount of sugar per liter in the wine are balanced by extraordinary acidity. Sensations of white peach and orange peel are the prelude to a harmonious, taut palate with structure that is flavorful, deep and multi-dimensional.

HARD-TO-FIND WINES

We make our way among Portugal’s stands at ProWein and find ourselves south of Douro, along another river: the Dão, which gives its name to one of the most interesting winegrowing regions in the country, a treasure trove of indigenous vine varieties. “In Spain, this variety is known as mencia, here, it’s jaen. Its anthocyanins and its profile resemble that of pinot Nero,” Alvaro Castro tells us, enologist and owner of Quinta de Pellada. His Jaen 2010, in its first release, is the synthesis of vines more than 70 years old that grow on soil rich in granite and clay. Colors are notably pale. The first notes on the nose are feral, then shade towards roses and wild

LAST STOP bRAZIL

Il Top Italian Wines Roadshow aveva preso il via da Seoul a Novembre, poi Osaka in Giappone, ancora Singapore e Bangkok a Marzo, il finale, anche quest’anno è riservato al Brasile. Due gli appuntamenti in programma, Giovedì, 18 Aprile a Rio de Janeiro, presso il Windsor Atlantica Hotel (Av. Atlantica, 1020 – Capocabana)

e Lunedì 22 Aprile a San Paulo, presso l’Hotel Unique ( Avenida Brigadeiro Luis Antonio, 4700 Jardim Paulista ). La formula? Master Classes dalle 14 alle 15 e dalle 16 alle 17: flight tastingn dalle 2 alle 7.30 p.m. Per confermare la vostra presenza, scrivere a: contato@cristinaneves.com.br

by Lorenzo Ruggeri

5XXXXXXXXXXXXPAIRING

is There anyThing beTTer Than fragranT, crisP, simPle Pizza bread and morTadella? savory, sofT, and aromaTic all aT once, iT is

deliciously satisfying. The choices for a drink to pair it with are practically infinite. We began with the beverages for young people, such as Gazzosa and Chinotto, but they didn’t appeal to adults very much. Then we moved on to Moretti Doppio Malto beer, a pleasing, easy-to-drink match thanks to its gentle hopping. La Rossa, another beer from Moretti, was good, limited only by a dominating smoky note on the finish. Prosecco Extra Dry made by Foss Marai worked very well, thanks to its residual sugar, which balanced the delicate sweetness of the mortadella pleasantly. From Montefiascone, the classic white Est! Est!! Est!!! married the mortadella to perfection. Stefano Fanticelli, a passionate promoter of Tuscan

cigars, pointed out the wine’s warm, but clean, harmonious mouth – an example of perfect synergy. in Lorenzo Ruggeri’s opinion, a point that started us thinking: pizza with mortadella calls for simple wines that aren’t too full-bodied. Oddly enough, the pairing with Lambrusco was forgettable (a little too harsh on the finish), while Barbera d’Asti satisfied everyone. The mouth stayed fully fruity and the fairly cool temperature at which it was served helped.Then, at the last minute, we opened a bottle that rearranged our podium. Isimbarda’s Bonarda was pleasant and aromatic, with a light tannic note and great effervescence that freshened the palate. We thought it would be an easier task, but making a final decision on the order of the best pairings for pizza with mortadella was not obvious: at the end, simplicity won the day.

esT! esT!! esT!!!di monTefiascone 2011Falesco

A Lazio classic, always fresh and pleasant. Its bright, straw-yellow color invitesa sip and doesn’t disappoint: sensations of peach, loquat and melon are perfectly

harmonized with hints of jasmine and acacia. A light drink that is at the same time soft and substantial, savory and fresh. Pairing: 8,5A magic meeting.

olTrePò Pavese bonarda vigna delle more 2011Isimbarda

Deep ruby with shades of violet. A concentrate of berries, cherries and sour cherries in this Croatina lombarda, which offers up a light spicy scent as well. the mouth is a

seductive mix of brio, freshness, savoriness and slight astringency that lasts on the palate for a long time.Pairing: 8,5true lively pleasure

conegliano valdobbiadene

exTra dry sTrada di guia 109Foss Marai

A delicious, light and delicate extra dry from the valdobbiadene zone: elegant, richly fragrant, and fresh, despite a sugar residue of about 15

grams per liter. the notes of acacia and apple stand out among others, offering all their elegance and intensity. Pairing: 8Pastel-colored harmony

birra doPPio malTo

Moretti

A light, tasty, intense ale, discreetly vigorous with its 7 degrees of alcohol; its alcohol doesn’t affect its easy drinkability. Foam is compact and long lasting, revealing a golden body, the result of high fermentation.

Harmonious union of scent and flavor: grassiness, the bitterness of the hops, the sweetness of the malt blend with notes of citrus fruit, orange in particular.Pairing: 7,5Gentle hopping is what makes the difference.

Pizza with mortadella by Giulia Sampognaro

6PINot NERo

in 1865 counT carlo giorgi di visTarino planted the first cuttings of pinot Nero in the Rocca de’Giorgi valley in Lombardy’s Oltrepò

Pavese zone . His objective: to produce a sparkling, metodo classico wine on the French model. A few years later, thanks also to the experience of Carlo Gancia and engineer Domenico Mazza di Codevilla, who hired an enologist from Reims, the first bottles of an Italian bubbly were produced and sold, the first metodo classico based on pinot Nero. It was an immediate commercial success. Today, twenty-eight hundred hectares of Pinot Nero are planted in Oltrepò Pavese, which makes it the leader in Italy and the third in Europe for this variety.

in 1930 The canTina social la versa, in The beautiful Versa valley was founded. The terrain was hilly, rich in limestone and marl, and enjoyed exceptional temperature swings between night and day – all contributing to a natural habitat for pinot

Nero grapes. Finally, in 1960, after the founding of the Consorzio Vini Tipici, a period of growth and prosperity followed. The leading figure was Duke Antonio Giuseppe Denari, who in the 1970s and 1980s managed to capture the attention of sparkling-wine devotees and direct it towards a territory that by then had been making bubblies for a hundred years. In the last two decades of the 20th century, many grapegrowers decided to bottle the wine from their own grapes, and in 2007, a DOCG was established (denominazione d’origine controllata e garantita) that certified and regulated the production of metodo classico sparkling wines. The regulations require: 15 months on their lees for the basic version, 24 for the vintage type. Pinot Nero must account for a minimum of 70% for the Metodo Classico denomination and at least 85% for Metodo Classico Pinot Nero. The result is a style that displays high acidity, intensity and freshness that is occasionally nervous.

in The lasT five years, The greaTesT efforTs in The spumante field have been devoted

Oltrepò Pavese:the three faces of Pinot Nero

by Lorenzo Ruggeri

CoNtINuES

7

oLtREPò PAvESE: tHE tHREE FACES oF...

to a project known as Cruasé, a Metodo Classico Pinot Nero rosé made by the saignée method. The Consorzio Vini Oltrepò Pavese, owner of the collective brand, Cruasé, has played a key role in a productive process that involves over 40 producers and turns out about 300,000 bottles, a number that is slowly but surely growing. It is difficult to trace a common organoleptic profile among these producers, and the same is true for the wine’s color, which varies from coppery to intense cherry hues. There are many stylistic approaches, but the wines all have a red-fruit immediacy and fairly reduced dosage in common. In the last few years, many producers have segmented their offerings, marketing Cruasé that rest on their lees for a longer time, aiming for more complexity.

The Third TyPe of PinoT nero in olTrePò is the red version, and here the story is a more recent one. Among the first producers was Ruz de Cardenas in the 1980s. This area is around Mairano, the hilly zone above Casteggio, one of the most favorable in all the Oltrepò. Here is the glorious Frecciarossa winery, and in the next municipality, Corvino San Quirico, is the Tenuta Mazzolino, a model of quality production. Another classic zone for still Pinot Nero is Alta Valle Scuro Passo, where the soil alternates clay and marl. This is the location of the splendid Conte Vistarino estate. The area of Montecalvo and Santa Maria nella Valle Versa, however, is a zone where acidity is ideal for the production of metodo classico bottles.

beloW We PresenT our selecTion of The besT, following the categories we delineated above: Metodo Classico, Cruasé, Pinot Nero red. You will find exceptional expressions of the grape, wineries that are on their way up, others that have shown excellent constancy over time. The Oltrepò Pavese, one of the most romantic and pristine winegrowing zones in the entire country of Italy is still seldom visited, and its excellent wines merit more attention

toP oLtREPò PAvESE PINot NERo

MAZZOLINOOP Pinot Nero Noir 2009euro 28

One of the most favorable terroirs in the denomination is ruled over by enologist Jean Francois Coquard.

The splendid estate belonging to the Braggiotti family is an ambassador of excellence in the Oltrepò. For us, Pinot Nero Noir ’09 is one of the best versions of all: it opens on tones of goudron, followed by floral sensations. The palate is elegant, with creamy tannins and sinuous, deep progression. The finish is fresh and balsamic, with very long aromatic persistence. Hats off.

FRECCIAROSSAOP Pinot Nero Giorgio Odero 2009euro 24

The Odero family estate is one of the oldest and most glorious in the Oltrepò Pavese. At the top of their production is Pinot Nero

Giorgio Odero, with a characteristic timbre that plays between earthy notes and spicy ones. The ’09 version opens on tones of black berry fruit, graphite and cocoa powder. It is juicy and very young on the palate with well-made dense and close-knit tannins. It will be at its best in a few years, but it is an excellent drink even now. We tasted the 2005 again recently and it was perfection.

CONTE vISTARINOOP Pinot Nero Pernice 2008euro 22

The name Conte Vistarino is synonymous with Valle Scuropasso and the homeland of Italian Pinot Nero. Ottavia Giorgi di

Vistarino now heads this historic estate. It was Conte Giorgi di Vistarino who imported and planted the first clones of Pinot Nero in 1865. The estate’s Pinot Nero Pernice ’08 is flavorful, fragrant and typical of its variety. It reflects the year’s coolish weather well, with its subtle and elegant palate. Among the greatest vintage years, we remember the extraordinary 2006.

MARCHESI ADORNOOP Pinot Nero Rile Nero 2009euro 21

Since 1997 when Marchese Marcello Cattaneo Adorno decided to direct the family estate himself, he has invested in

upgrading the winery and personnel. The first results are showing up, but the potential is still not fully expressed. Pinot Nero Rile Nero ’09 displays well-executed texture, with smooth tannins, structure, elegance and personality. A clear balsamic note on the finish.

PINot NERo

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toP oLtREPò PAvESE PINot NERo MEtoDo CLASSICo

MONSUPELLOOP brut Classese 2006euro 23

There’s little doubt that Monsupello is the best winery for sparkling wines in the Oltrepò in terms of reliability,

quantity and quality. Each year in our blind tastings we have trouble choosing the best label. Classese ’06 is a splendid Tre Bicchieri: it masterfully combines power, elegance and structure. In the mouth, its energy and grip are striking, offering sensations of crisp berry fruit and tones of aromatic herbs. One of the greatest Italian Metodo Classico labels. Finally, a mention of the delicious Rosé and the exceptional Nature: it has purity, traction, personality.

F.LLI GIORGIOP Pinot Nero brut 1870 2008euro 23

This label has won a Tre Bicchieri award for the fourth consecutive year thanks to the winery’s intelligent

and well-designed work. The Giorgi family again presents this little gem: a spumante that is noteworthy above all for the elegance of a nose that ranges from floral to ethereal notes, followed by a note of black truffle. On the palate it is vibrant and vigorous, with a very long finish on shades of citrus fruit.

CASTELLO DI CIGOGNOLAOP brut ’More 2008euro 18

The Castello di Cigognola, owned by Gianmarco and Letizia Moretti, is a wonderful structure built in 1212. It

dominates the entire valley of Scuropasso. The Brut ’More ’08 - 36 months on its lees has won our Tre Bicchieri award. On the nose, sensations of thyme, bread crust and white chocolage. The perlage is extremely creamy. Harmonious with a long, precise finish.

PICCHIONIOP brut Nature Profilo 2000euro 28

Andrea Picchioni has attracted attention for years with this Metodo Classico aged for over ten years on its lees, made with

no dosage and without fermentation in wood of the base wine. It has a marked personality: geNerous and complex, with a beautiful golden color. Evolved, the nose has the typical notes of panettone in the foreground and shades of iodine; a rich, full mouth with hints of caressing bubbles thanks to its long aging.

ANTEOOP Pinot Nerot Nature Ecru 2006euro 20

This winery cellar is memorably beautiful with its vaults, its bottles resting in stacks, its long riddling racks. We’re talking,

obviously, about Metodo Classico wines. This enchanting corner of the Oltrepò from which Valle Versa and Valle Scuropasso branch off has been the perfect habitat for pinot Nero-based spumante for over one hundred years. We particularly liked Nature ’06, which stands out for its tones of dried herbs, anise, sharpish palate and vigor.

toP oP CRuASé

vERCESI DEL CASTELLAZZOOP Cruasé Donna Paola 2008euro 17

Donna Paola ’08 made it to our final selection round: it has balsamic notes on the nose, a precise palate, and is

rich in energy and mineral tones. The finish is long and continuous. A model Cruasé CA’ DI FRARAOP Pinot Nero brut Oltre il Classico Rosé Ris. 2006euro 22

Luca Bellani was one of the first to believe in the Cruasé project, and his results show it. The Rosé Riserva ’06 (technically

we can’t call it Cruasé because that name was launched in 2007) is a complex and intriguing spumante in which citrus and other fruit blend well with an oaky note, along with evident hazelnut, licorice and white pepper aromas. The finish is very long and satisfying. Don’t miss the excellent Cruasé Oltre, its little brother.

OP CRUASé.Giorgieuro 17

This winery is located in the heart of the Valle Versa, the key zone for the production of spumante in the Oltrepò.

Giorgi offers an extremely wide and varied selection of labels. The top quality wines are supervised by Alberto Musatti and his results are reliably good. The salmon-colored Cruasé opens on tones of raspberries and currants, offering a mouth-filling, creamy palate.

PINot NERo

9

TENUTA IL bOSCOOP Cruasé Oltreneroeuro 23

This beautiful estate has belonged to the Zonin family for over 20 years. With its 152 hectares of vineyard, it is the

largest winegrower in the Oltrepò Pavese. The winemaking facilities are new, well-equipped, and were designed for low environmental impact under the vigilant eye of Piernicola Olmo. This Cruasé displays tones of violet and rose and offers a well-drawn palate, rich in acidic backbone and tones of citrus fruit.

MAZZOLINOOP Cruaséeuro 16

The Cruasé made by Tenuta Mazzolino has been the model for its type for years. An intense cherry hue precedes a

measured, precise mouth, with sensations of berries and hints of citrus fruit. Fine beading, and on the finish, the sensation of a freshly picked pomegranate.

BESt Buy

FIAMbERTI OP Pinot Nero Nero 2010euro 9

This is one of the best winegrowing zones in Italy and the one with the greatest density of vineyards: Canneto

Pavese. Nero ’10, made by Ambrogio and Giulio Fiamberti, is an appealing wine. Aromas of roses and orange peel are the prologue to a lean and vigorous palate in perfect symmetry with the nose. It closes on fresh minty notes. Deli-cious.

vERDI

OP Pinot Nero 2009 euro 12

Paolo Verdì is without a doubt one of the Oltrepò Pavese’s best producers in terms of reliability, price/quality ratio, and

the territoriality of his wines. Pinot Nero ’09 displays fresh, crisp notes of raspberry and mint – the characteristic timbre of Canneto Pavese. The attack on the palate is precise, the development fluid and elegant, and one sip calls for the next.

QUAQUARINI OP Pinot Nero brut Classeseeuro 9

Here is a solid winery that always manages to maintain a decent level of quality all along its production range. In recent years,

Umberto and Maria Teresa’s work has led to wines that are more defined and territorial. One

of their leading products is Classese, a monovarietal pinot Nero Brut with a strong character, fragrant and compact on the nose, where berries stand out, dynamic and vibrant on the palate. A model of its type.

TERRE D’OLTREPòOP Cruasé euro 8

Terre d’Oltrepò is the result of the fusion of Cantina di Casteggio with the Cantina Sociale di Broni, forming an

important cooperative that can draw on over 900 contributing members. Cruasé is fragrant with floral aromas and citrus fruit. It has energy, dynamism, personality. A fresh and harmonious finish on floral notes.

CA’ DEL GèOP Pinot Nero brut M. Cl.euro 12

Completely family-run by Lucia and her children Stefania, Sara and Carlo, this 36-hectare estate in the Montecalvo

Versiggia area is dedicated to quality production. The Brut Metodo Classico has been a high quality wine for years: floral aromas, elegant and balanced, notes of ripe peaches and apricots emerge on the palate, and the finish is long with a slight residue of sugar that gives fullness.

FRANCESCO MONTAGNAOP Cruasé bertè & Cordini 2009euro 14

In the last few years, this historic winery, with headquarters in the center of Broni, has launched production of metodo classico

wine with good results. Matteo Berté, one of the most talented young enologists in the zone, has put into practice his passion for sparkling wines. Cruasé Bertè & Cordini ’09 is well made, with a typical expression of red berries, hints of violets and good minerality. On the palate it is relaxed, well-sustained, and refreshing.

ISIMbARDAOP Cruaséeuro 13

The Marchesi Isimbardi estate, located on the hills of Santa Giuletta, is a winery that is clearly on the road to higher quality wines.

Cruasé, in its first appearance, offers a symphony of aromas on the nose, beginning with notes of wild strawberries that evolve towards tones of anise and licorice. Good correspondence on the palate, which displays flavor and aromatic persistence. An excellent start.

PINot NERo

10EN PRIMEuR

venice. a day aT The end of WinTer. A new vintage year of Dom Pérignon arrives in Italy, new at least for the Rosé.

We’re talking about a great year, 2002. We spoke to Vincent Chaperon, the house enologist and right arm of Richard Geffroy, about a wine that will be much discussed in the future – especially since, for now, it has no fear of getting old.

The color is sTarTling and a biT PerPlexing. iT is a brilliant pink, but very dark, with cherry and orange highlights. The chiaroscuro experience begins on the nose, the changes of pace, those sensations that Vincent Chaperon describes by referring continuously to a paradox. First you notice the sweeter, primary sensations of fruit. Then, slowly, clear, fresh notes emerge. Aromas of pastry and berries shift into hints of citrus fruit that immediately resembles rhubarb, spices, alpine herbs. The fragrances continue to change and a sensation of blood orange moves into earthy, slightly smoky tones.

on The PalaTe, The PaTh seems To reverse. iT immediately displays its essence and finesse. The

prickle gives softness, enfolds the mouth, and, together with the sensations of minerals, pushes the mouthful into a deep finish. And it’s here that flavor seems to explode in all its vinosity, with Pinot Nero stepping onto the stage, providing structure, body, chewiness. Dark and light tones, we said, sensations of freshness but mouth-filling, vertical and geNerous. It seems to be everything and its opposite, from contrasts to assonance, from luminosity to darker passages. A bit later Chaperon tells us about the vintage year. It’s fascinating to hear how the year’s weather totally affected the sensations we find in the glass. The spring was dry but July was quite stormy. Even in August, the weather was gray, but the humidity did not win out and the ripening of the grapes was slowed down. At the end of August, more rain arrived along with fears that the weather might ruin the entire year’s harvest. But in early September, the sun came out and then shone for six entire weeks.

“ThaT sPlendid, golden lighT of incredible luminosity brought the grapes to perfect maturity. We find all those highlights in the Rosé 2002, and they lend elegance and crystalline sensations to the ripe fruit that Pinot Nero provides. That light,” says Chaperon, “brings the wine closer to the stars, contrasts with its earthy quality, and aging will render it even more stellar.”

Dom Pérignon Rosé 2002En primeur tasting

by Giuseppe Carrus

11NEWS&tRENDS

ORNELLAIA IN DEMAND IN Ny. THE FIRST AUCTION OF 2013 UP +60%

A winemaking estate with a well-planned and thought-out auction strategy reaps the rewards. Ornellaia, the SuperTuscan with the most constant presence in various international auctions over the last year, offered the latest proof of this thesis, with bottles that very often came directly from their Bolgheri cellars. February 23, 2013, at Sotheby’s in New York, the first 76 lots sold were all different vintages and formats of Ornellaia, on the occasion of its twenty-fifth vintage year. Investors responded well. For five lots from 2007, 2008, 2009 and 2010, the increase amounted to three figures, with a maximum of 145% over pre-sale estimate for the 2008 label. A record was also set for the 2010 balthazar, sold at $11,638, about 8,800€, more than 94% higher than the auction base price. In eleven instances, the offered lots could be compared to 2012 prices, and only two vintages were down. Over all the value of the Ornellaia label went from 1,7636 to 2,382 euros, an increase of 63%. These numbers are even more striking if you consider that the Milan stock exchange in 2012 closed the year up 7.8%, but with an annual volatility that saw the difference between the minimum and maximum reach 38.6%.

2013, NEW ZEALAND’S bEST vINTAGE yEAR FOR WINE?

The 2013 vintage is proving to be among the most controversial in recent years. But if we focus our attention on New Zealand the situation is pretty clear: 2013 should be one of the best ever for New Zealand wines. New Zealand Winegrowers’ CEO Philip Gregan uses important words to describe this vintage: conditions as “absolutely perfect for growing and ripening grapes. Still with warm days and now slightly cooler nights prevailing, the prospect is for an outstanding vintage in all our grape growing regions”. Esk Valley winemaker Gordon Russell says that “not only are our grapes ripening perfectly under constantly blue skies, but cooler nights are helping retain acidity and ultimately enrich the wines with a vitality not normally seen in drought seasons”.

We are also seeing an increase of winemakers and, according to the sixth edition of The Great New Zealand Pinot Noir Classification, 120 estates from among the country’s 484 Pinot Noir producers are classified. The Classification includes 23 estates for the first time as well.

DOMAINE JACQUES SELOSSE bURGLED

On Friday March 22, 2013, a team of burglars broke into the cellars of Anselme Selosse’s winery, the Domaine Jacques Selosse, and made off with 3,700 bottles. The thieves, petty local criminals, were arrested and the wine recovered. But it’s still bad news when we have to report a theft. The cuvée stolen were the brut “Initial”; the single vineyard blanc de blancs “Substance”; the blanc de blancs “Version Originale”; and lastly the rosé and the demi-sec “Exquise”. The peculiarity of this theft is that the thieves also made off with 16,000 labels and 12,000 neck collars. Fortunately we are talking about a situation with a happy ending, because counterfeit bottles could have been a big problem.

12EStERI

wine buy of the month

SOAvE CLASSICO MONTE ALTO 2010

Ca’ Rugate (veneto)10,000 bottles

14 euroswww.carugate.it

the Ca’ Rugate winery, a long-established firm

belonging to the tessari family, is in Montecchia di

Crosara, a town between verona and vicenza. the zone is perfectly suited for grape-growing and

has a unique landscape: vineyards stretching to the horizon are punctuated by cherry trees that in spring

cover the terrain with a myriad of white petals,

from the valley to the tops of the surrounding hills. Winegrowing has been part of local tradition

for over a century and focuses on local

varieties. Ca’ Rugate’s winemaking facilities

and cellars cover 4,000 meters of terrain and

are on three levels. this permits the estate to

keep the entire process of vinification - aging,

bottling and storage - under one roof,

thanks also to modern technology.

We want to talk to you about a truly incredible wine: Soave Classico Monte Alto, vintage year 2010. A white made from 100% garganega grapes, it is fascinating right from its lovely, intense straw-yellow color. on the nose it is fragrant with notes of apple and pear, with floral tones, but also dried fruit and almonds. the palate is warm, soft and solid, in a splendid rapport with the oak where it aged for over a year. Persistence in

the mouth is long, and unveils all the aromas previously experienced, well-balanced between sweet and savory sensations. the wine has many facets to its soul: delicate and

elegant, it is at the same time powerful and full of character.We can enjoy it at its best with fresh fish, vegetable sformati and cheese soufflés, but it’s just as suited for tasting on its own, meditatively, in order to perceive every tone, sip after sip..

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A discovery at ProWein. Sherry can

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editorLorenzo Ruggeri ruggeri@gamberorosso.it

ADv Director Franco Dammicco dammicco@gamberorosso.it

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Gambero Rosso Holding spa via Enrico Fermi 161 00146 Rome (Italy)

NEWS&tRENDS

13EStERI

2013/2014

INTERNATIONAL EVENTS

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Vini d’Italia2013tour

APR MAY JUN jul aug sep OCT NOV dec JAN FEB MAR CALENDAR 2013

ROMEoctober

TRE BICCHIERI ROADSHOW VINI D’ITALIA

SHANGHAI4 november

HONG KONG6 november

TOKYO31october

NEW YORK6 february

CHICAGO11 february

16 januarySTOCKHOLM

TORONTO 5 june

VANCOUVER3 june

25 novemberZURICH

27 novemberWARSAW

18 aprilRIO DE JANEIRO

22 aprilSÃO PAULO

CALENDAR 2014

DÜSSELDORF22 march

11 juneMUNICH

MOSCOW19 november

/2014

20 januaryOSLO

PARIS 13 may

SAINT PETERSBURG13 june

SAN FRANCISCO13 february

14 januaryCOPENHAGEN