Gambero Rosso Wine Travel Food - April 2016

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ANTEPRIMEBRUNELLO 2011AMARONE 2012

TRAVEL & FOODCUBA

EVENTSEN PRIMEUR TASTING

VeronaFOOD&WINE

YEAR 21 N. 95 - APRIL 2016

W I N E T R A V E L F O O D

PERBELLINI: EXPLORE MY CITY

WWW . G AMB E RO RO S S O . I T

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COVER STORY42 | Verona: La mia CasaPerbellini talks about his favorite places. The chef, who has

tells about the many culinary sites he created in the city he returned to a little over a year ago, to realize his dream.. WINE21 | Outperform Rating on Brunello 2011A good vintage year – uncork without concern. This could be the motto to frame the 2011 Montalcino harvest. The year’s climate is perceptible in a large series of wines that are aromatically open, with a Mediterranean feel, mainly focused on ripe fruit, spices, underbrush. Great

at the Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2010...

40| Amarone 2012: a mediocre vintage2012 was a complicated year, uphill all the way for most of Italy, as well as for the rest of Europe. In our tastings, we found a series of ready and expressive wines, in some cases already low on energy, with marked fruity components on one hand, but also with a consistently more thoughtful use of oak and less concentration than you might expect...

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TRAVEL52 | Cuba: the allure of the CaribbeanIn a period of effervescent transition,after the reopening of embassies and the recent trip of the pope, this Caribbean island is a fascinating place to visit. It is exciting to experience the blend between old style and the new on its way in

FOOD58 | Recipes from Great Chefs: PerbelliniThe challenge coming from Giancarlo Perbellini in his Verona Casa: cook only with a small number of meticulously chosen ingredients, those that the season and the farmers’ markets offer. Each dish, then, has its logic and its coherence

NEWS & MORE 4 | Editorial 6 | News 10 | Events 16 | Italians abroad Saitta in Düsseldorf18 | Wine of the month Cesanese di Olevano Romano Sup. Silene ’14 Damiano Ciolli19 | Twitter dixit20 | Design Corkscrews22 | Pairing Lab Lazio

«This is one of the disadvantages of wine,

it makes a man mistake words for thoughts»

Samuel Johnson

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EDITORIAL

For a few days each year, Verona becomes the Italian capital of wine tasting, the place where you meet every-one, try everything, explore what’s new. This has been going on for 50 years, since 1967. From its quiet begin-nings, it has become the international stage for the stars of the recent history of Italian wine, the place for those winemakers who, tired of small town festivals, want the entire world to recognize the extraordinary quality of their products.

a critical moment in the history of Italy’s enology. A few days before, the scandal of adulterated wine had explod-ed. It involved a number of companies that had handled

Narzole, in the province of Cuneo, on the shore of the Tanaro river. That liquid took the lives of 23 people. A criminal in a small town on the border of the extraordi-nary world of the Langa, of Barolo and Barbaresco, was able to imperil the efforts of a generation of grapegrow-ers who had decided to make Italian wine great. They had just begun to garner the success they deserved in the world. Morale was low in those days. Exports had slumped. Italian wines were stopped at the German bor-der to await new analyses.

visit, I felt someone grab my arm. I found a glass thrust into one hand and a slice of salami into the other. A giant of a man shouted, “Taste how great this Barbera is!!!” The wine, lively and fragrant, was very, very good. The salami was extraordinary. The man who grabbed my arm was Giacomo Bologna, the father of modern

-lometers away from the despicable Narzole, Bologna had traveled around the most prestigious wineries in the world to learn how the greatest wines were made. After my baptism with Monella, I was found worthy of tasting Bricco dell’Uccellone, his great wine, a grand vin. Thanks to him and those wines, I understood that I had found my own world. I saw that the universe of Italian wine would, in the end, make it through this disaster. We dedicate the wine pages that follow to Giacomo Tachis, who has just passed away, to Giacomo Bologna, and to all those who over the years have made Italian wine so wonderful, and so beloved around the world.

Marco Sabellico

VINITALY30 YEARS AGO

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http://www.kellerei-kurtatsch.it/

http://www.giustiwine.com

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WINE AND ECONOMY

In the United States, the presi-dential primaries don’t exclude alcohol. In one of his recent press conferences in Florida, Republi-can candidate Donald Trump promoted his winegrowing estate in Virginia. Trump Winery (800 hectares, of which 81 are vine-yard) is run by his son Eric. “It is the largest winery estate on the East Coast,” he affirmed, un-derlining that the enterprise had never incurred any debt. It was a response to the accusations of ex-candidate Mitt Romney, who pointed out that every Trump Business (except wine) had failed, from Trump Airlines to Trump University, from Trump Vodka to Trump Steaks. Meanwhile, on the Democrat front, another al-coholic drink enlivened the pri-maries. Windsor’s Motor Craft Ales dedicated a beer to Bernie Sanders, calling it Bernie. It will be available in a few weeks in a limited edition.

PRESIDENTIAL PRIMARIES IN THE USA. Trump wine versus Sanders’ beer

OXYGEN AND SULFITES. Research explains how they influence each other and how to manage themWhat happens to wine in the pres-ence of oxygen? What is the des-tiny of exogenous anti-oxidants such as sulfur dioxide? These are the questions that a research group formed by Cantine Mezzacorona, Fondazione Edmund Mach and Nomacorc, a wine-closure giant, asked. The study was carried out on 12 white wines, produced from six different grape varieties and in the presence of different quantities of oxygen. “We discovered new chemical reactions that involve sulfur dioxide. We found out that sulfur dioxide reacts with other an-ti-oxidants present in wine, such as glutathione, reducing their overall anti-oxidant capacity,” explained Panagiotis Arapitsas, researcher with the Fondazione Edmund Mach. “Instead of having an add-

on effect, they eliminate each oth-er, leaving the wine less protected.” And now, what will be the practi-cal application of the experimen-tation? “This discovery,” Arapitsas continued, “will help us towards a more intelligent use of sulfur diox-ide. In fact, regular measurement of the compounds capable of re-acting with sulfites could contrib-ute to our better judging the con-centration of sulfites appropriate to best protecting wine, and even-tually, lead to reducing the quanti-ty of sulfite dioxide added.” In this way, it will be possible to find new indicators to better understand the capacity of each wine to resist oxi-dation, and therefore winemakers will be able to better judge how to manage the presence of oxygen during and after bottling.

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Once again in 2015, the export of Italian sparkling wine grew more than that of its competitors, France and Spain. In terms of volume, the increase was 13% (2.7 million hectoliters) compared to 7% for the French (1.8 million hectoliters) and the 4% for the Spanish (1.6

in the world for this type of wine (the United States, United Kingdom and Germany) the proportion of Italian spumante in the total sparkling wine market reached 59% in the UK, 51% in the USA and 29% in Germany. (In the latter case, the data doesn’t include frizzanti wines, which are a relevant element in German imports: from Italy alone, over 500,000 hectoliters ar-rived in 2015, most of it Prosecco). Although the array of sparkling wines is very varied and not easily compa-rable among the different exporting countries (above all in terms of production method, i.e Charmat or bottle fermentation), the fact remains that if, instead of vol-ume you consider value, the Italian share diminishes sharply. The average price at export of French sparkling

wines is 3 times that of Italian ones in Germany, 5 times in the USA and 6 times in the UK. If you compare it to Champagne, the difference increases exponentially (over 8 times in the USA). But the difference still re-mains if you restrict the comparison to spumante DOPs (excluding Champagne in France and Asti in Italy). In this case, the price of French sparkling wine is about 1.5 times that of Italian. The top ranking for affordability goes to the Spanish: In Germany, the average price paid in 2015 was less than 2 euros per liter.

ITALIAN SPUMANTE IS THE WORLD’S FAVORITE. Because it costs less?

Bad news for wine commerce in the United Kingdom. Chancellor George Osborne, presenting his new bud-get to Parliament, announced that the tax on wine

-rettes. Other alcoholic beverages, however, will re-main unchanged. The announcement distressed the

on the sector, above all in a moment when the ster-ling seems weak against the euro, a factor that works against imports from countries such as France, Spain and Italy. The tax on wine in the United Kingdom is the second highest in Europe (after Ireland). Just last year it brought four billion pounds sterling into the government cash drawer. In practice, at the moment (without considering the new increase), the tax on an

55%, or 2.75 pounds. Wine has not had the 1984 ex-cise taxes reduced. Moreover, the tax clips the wings of the emerging wine industry in England. The effects

the United Kingdom.

UNITED KINGDOM. NEW INCREASE IN WINE TAX. Beers and spirits unchanged. Winegrowers’ associations protest: “The regulation damages a growing sector.”

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IN THE UNITED ARAB EMIRATES, A FARM SYSTEM WILL PRODUCE BOTH BIOFUEL AND FOOD. At the same timeA recently published study in Sci-

-duction of biofuel in 2013. It showed that if maize, wheat, soy, sugar cane, palm oil and rapeseed oil were destined to be used as food, they could feed a third of the un-dernourished people on the planet. This is why it is important to de-velop more sustainable production methods, such as that being stud-ied in the United Arab Emirates. A new plant will produce food and

Abu Dhabi project is innovative in many ways. Surrounded by desert, the farm uses sea water to irrigate

-ing algae and aquatic plants which are destined for use as biofuel. The

idea emerged from collaboration between the Masdar Institute of Science and Technology and Eti-had. Boeing and Honeywell UOP have contracted to build the plant to produce renewable biofuel for the aviation industry. The princi-ple is simple. The pilot project will use seawater and recycled waste

food, and the waste will then be pumped into a tank full of salt-tolerant plants grown for use as aviation biofuel and fertilizer for mangroves. The aviation industry has understood the importance of investing in researching biofuels for airplane motors. The innovative Abu Dhabi solution seems to sat-isfy all.

The wait for a table at the restau-rant Celler de Can Roca, in Gi-rona, in Spain, can last almost a year, but the culinary experiences served up by the two brothers is un-forgettable. In their search for cre-ative approaches to cooking, the Roca brothers also conduct their own avant-garde research into kitchen techniques. In partnership with Cata Electrodomésticos, they invented Rocook, an induction plate connected by Bluetooth to a thermostat for cooking at high and low temperatures. It comes with the cookbook entitled “Low-temperature cooking with Joan Roca”, distributed by Planeta. In their own kitchens, home chefs can attain a perfect vacuum that permits low-temperature cooking like that perfected over decades in Celler de Can Roca. The appli-ance and book cost less than 400 euros. As Joan Roca often says, “The best restaurant in the world doesn’t exist, and the best cooking is a mother’s.”

ROCOOK. Vacuum cooking for all, from the Roca brothers, now on the home appliance market

NEWS FROM AROUND THE WORLD

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Phaidon has published excellent and imposing works in the past, such as the six-volume Modernist Cuisine, or the guide to chefs’ favorite restau-rants, Where Chefs Eat. Now edi-tor Daniel Young, New York critic transplanted to London, has curated an encyclopedic guide for those mo-ments, no matter where in the world you are, when the yen for authentic pizza is overwhelming. In this me-ticulous work, Where to Eat Pizza, over 1,000 food experts from around the world have contributed their ad-vice. The 576-page book includes city maps and reviews of more than 1,700 pizzerias. Chefs, critics, and trade professionals participated en-thusiastically in the preparation of this pizza Bible, available in April, 2016. The guide ignores ratings, but just aims to be a substantial list of

outside Naples (which also appears, with many addresses noted), from the Americas to Asia to northern Eu-rope. The volume is a celebration of the global success of an Italian food that today is a part of everyone’s life.

WHERE TO EAT PIZZA.The Phaidon encyclopedia helps find the nearest pizzeria. Anywherein the world

Last year the Criterion on Picca-dilly Circus, one of London’s his-toric restaurants, closed its doors. The expenses of managing the site had become overwhelming. In December 2015, however, an Ital-ian buyer decided to invest in the prestigious location, and the new owner of the Criterion is the Gatto family, known for its restaurant in the Galleria in Milano, Savini. So today, diners at Savini at Criterion

-ents and Italian recipes at this clas-sic London address. Some exam-ples of the tried and true dishes on the menu: roast pork with heirloom borretana onions and balsamic vinegar, eggplant parmigiana, ri-sotto alla milanese (with saffron),

SAVINI AT CRITERION. 150 years of history, from Milano to London. Another triumph for Italian cucinain the world

pappa al pomodoro (bread and to-mato soup), steak with artichokes, eggplant and radicchio, chicken with potatoes and rosemary, osso-

and a wide range of pasta dishes are available, as are international classics, such as French foie gras with pan brioche, or Peruvian veal cheek with star anise and potatoes, or raw oysters and grilled scallops. The restaurant is open from 8 a.m. until midnight. The aim is to join 150 years of Italian and English traditions, since the Savini brand dates back to 1867, when it opened in Milano’s Galleria. The Crite-rion bar is back in action, serving drinks from aperitif time to after-dinner nightcaps.

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Gambero Rosso Italian Night, April 16, 2016

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GAMBERO ROSSO ON THE ROAD

GAMBERO ROSSOLANDS IN DUBAI

DUBAIAn exclusive selection of Top Italian Wines showcased in Dubaiduring a unique Italian NIght

by Lorenzo Ruggeri

hong kong

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ITALY COUNTRY GUEST OF HONOR AT VINEXPO HONG KONGAn exclusive selection of Top Italian Wines and Spirits showcased in Hong Kong for 3 days of celebrating great flavors: tastings, seminars and inimitable aperitivi

An exclusive selection of Top Italian Wines showcased in Dubaiduring a unique Italian NIght

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JANUARY 2016

ITALIAN CHEFS ABROAD

From a small Sicilian town, Partini-co, to Düsseldorf. Giuseppe Saitta’s story is not only about a geograph-ic leap, but also about two com-pletely different worlds that meet. On March !0, 2016, Palermo and Düsseldorf were declared ‘twin cit-ies’. Behind that agreement, is our protagonist. Step by step he created a miniature empire. Today Saitta, who is also a municipal councilor in Düsseldorf, owns four restaurants.

new locations in 2015, Va Veloce 1 and Va Veloce 2. Quality is high and when the city hosts fairs and conference, many traveling Italians make sure they eat at Giuseppe’s. His customers, Italian and not, lin-ger long into the night uncorking great bottles and enjoying reliable, high-quality food, free of any spe-cial effects.

Giuseppe, what brought you to

Germany?

My father came to Germany in 1965, to work at the Mannesmann

you remember, in 1968 there was a bad earthquake in Sicily. My father came home to get us and the whole family joined him in Germany.

Certainly, language was an obsta-cle at the beginning. I overcame it playing soccer. That was my way of integrating. I played well, and I quickly became one of them.

How did you get interested in

food?

Papà had an accident and couldn’t work in the factory anymore. So suddenly, he had to invent a new job. In front of our house there was a tiny grocery store. We took it over

Saitta’s Story

by Lorenzo Ruggeri

dusseldorfIT BEGAN IN A BASEMENT

JANUARY 2016

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Saitta’s StoryIT BEGAN IN A BASEMENT

with the bit of savings we had. That was 1975, and it was little more than a basement. We began to sell Ital-ian products. You have no idea the reactions of our customers when they saw us cooking for ourselves during lunch hour. Those aromas must have seemed exotic to them. They stopped by to see what we were eating. That’s how we started our tavola calda, a prepared-foods, take-out place, in 1982.

And after the tavola calda?

We got bigger slowly. We opened

in 1990. The idea was to repro-duce our home-cooking, the recipes we made for ourselves: pasta with tomato sauce, lasagna, eggplant. In 1997 we added Piazza Saitta (Barbarossaplatz), and last year we opened Via Veloce 1 and 2. The idea of these last ones was cook-

and fast. Germans have less time to eat compared to Italians, so we cook simple recipes, to order. In the evening, the places become regu-lar restaurants. The formula is the same as before, with a food coun-ter where you can buy good cheese, cured meats, a bottle of wine. We are a wine bar, restaurant and deli-catessen all in one.

What do the Germans like most

about Italian cucina?

We made a name for ourselves for

not exactly from Piedmont. We work with all types, ranging from

to black ones, to more affordable summer varieties. We realized that baked pasta casseroles aren’t pop-ular, but cooked to order, quality dishes, are. In Düsseldorf, the level of restaurant offerings is very high, and the public is demanding.

Is this an Italian wine moment?

By chance we found ourselves working also as distributors in order to satisfy our own demand but also

the most successful was the explo-sion of Venica&Venica wines, and those from southern Italy, above

Lugana phenomenon. We sell riv-ers of it – inexplicable. Pinot Grigio had a moment, then Chardonnay,

tomorrow.

How big is the Italian commu-

nity in Düsseldorf?

Once, we were the second or third largest group in Düsseldorf. Now, many have gone back to Italy. To-day there are about 7,000 of us, and about 700 Italian restaurants! Many have become citizens, and we’re talking about third-genera-tion Italians. Even I speak German to my daughters at home.

All in all, how is life in Düssel-

dorf? What do you miss?

We live divinely well. It’s a safe

city. If you love sports, there are many opportunities. I love the jog-ging paths that cross the old city, the bridge, the views of the Rhine. There’s a rich cultural life with op-era, theater, six museums. People here love Italy. Perhaps they even neglect their own traditions to dedi-cate themselves to ours. They invite me to dinner and cook pasta with sauce that cooked for 10 hours, like my grandmother made. What do I miss? I’ll be trite, but that’s how it is. Light, sea, sun.

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Lazio’s safe betCesanese di Olevano Romano Sup. Silene ’14 Damiano Ciolli20,000 bottlesex-cellar price: 7.00 euros

Where there’s tomato, pecorino and guan--

sion of Amatriciana, one of those dishes con-stantly on the minds and tables of Romans, is Cesanese di Olevano Romano made by

trattorias in Rome often have this wonder-

is its friendly price, another is the quality of the wine, and a third is its innate capacity

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-age of Lazio’s wines, which at times are too anchored to a search for concentration, too aimed at making deep and richly shaded la-

vineyard, farmed without synthetic products,

WINE OF THE MONTH

APRIL 2016

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TWITTER dixitJon Thorsen

The horror!!!

Jamie Goode

Prowein reminded me of the size and scope of the world of wine. It’s huge.It reinforced this: we must remain humble in the face of wine

American Housewife

Yes, instead of deep-cleaning your home for company, you may serve really good wine and just dim the lights.

Quartz

Italy wants kids in primary schools to spend one hour a week studying the country’s “wine culture and history.”

Dance Sing Wine

“One of the disadvantages of wine is that it makes a man mistake words for thoughts”. Samuel Johnson

JF Tobias

Is France more likely to see even more great vintages because of climate change? But will it last?

Ken @ alawine

qz.com/652922/

qz.com/652922/

http://www.theguardian.com/environment/2016/mar/21/wine-lovers-raise-their-glasses-to-climate-change-but-there-may-be-a-hangover
















DESIGN

CORKSCREWS

ALESSANDRIO M.

Stefania Annese collaborated

“The soft extractive note of an aged cork being withdrawn has the true sound of a man opening his heart,” wrote 18th century scholar and cler-ic William S. Benwell. In his short

life (1765-1796) he was able to capture the poetry inher-ent in the opening of a precious bottle of wine. Paolo Annoni, a pharmacist and corkscrew-collector, also sees beauty in the ritual and its tools. He exhibits about 500 of his best in the museum on Piazza Castello in Barolo.

-lish inventor Samuel Henshall. He, like many of his coun-trymen, loved the corked glass wine bottles arriving from France, Italy and Portugal but had trouble opening them. The most common tools were crude instruments — “steel worms” — that were variations on musket barrel cleaning tools (gun worms) manufactured by gunsmiths. They had been in use since the middle of the 17th century.

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CORKSCREWS

Today, corkscrews are still indispensable acces-sories for wine lovers. Although other nation-alities are inclined to look for technological masterpieces to open their bottles, Italians prefer instruments curated in design and clas-sic in their form, corkscrews that preserve the magic of the lyrical moment of extrac-tion. Giuseppe Todeschini made Spiral for Artis Tecnologia e Design based in Thiene (Vicenza), a company specialized in the pro-duction of wine accessories. This corkscrew is made with material derived from aeronautical engineering, and is particularly light, fast and easy to use. A Todeschini corkscrew is in the

permanent exhibition of MOMA in New York, and this new one joins what is by now a vast range of

similar objects made with premium materials. His Crick is made to force the spiral to insert itself in the center of the cork without fail. It has only one handle and an original mechanism that allows even one-handed extraction.

are housed in handy aluminum cases. An external struc-ture in lively colors protects the stainless steel ‘worm’, the

screw itself. Another memorable series is Bar&Wine by Alessi, the leading Italian brand of housewares of all sorts, featuring designs by the great-

est names in contemporary artistic production for the home. Alessandro Men-dini, architect, artist, designer, theoretician

and Milanese journal-ist, works in an unmistak-able style. His Anna G., a bot-

tle opener in thermoplastic resin,

has undergone multiple changes over the decades. This version is an ironic

homage to a real woman with a smiling face, and it has become an iconic ob-ject on Italian tables. Alessandro M., the masculine answer to the success of Anna

G., was the outcome of Mendini’s study of form and function. Another charming Mendini design, Parrot, combines humor and practicality.

INFO: www.artisitaly.it

www.morettoitalia.it

www.alessi.com

LIMITED EDITION ANNA G.

SPIRAL

ANNA G.

PARROT

CRICK

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www.artisitaly.it

www.morettoitalia.it

www.alessi.com

BELLONE BIANCO

Polpette

di bollito

boiled beef meatballs

Carciofi alla romana

FRASCATI SUP.

MINERAL WATER

drawings by Chiara Buosi

Tiella col polpo

savory octopus pie

artichokes alla romana

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APRIL 2016

PAIRING DO AS THE LAZIALI DO

Rigatoni

con la coda

Crostata

ricotta e visciole

Costolette di abbacchio

alla scottadito

NERO BUONO DI CORI

MOSCATO DI TERRACINAPASSITO

CESANESE DEL PIGLIO

baby lamb chops

rigatoni with oxtail sauce

ricotta and sour cherry tart

APRIL 2016

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DO AS THE LAZIALI DO

Pagina Amarone-Ripasso-ITA - Gambero.indd 1 04/03/16 10:21

http://www.tommasi.com/

The third edition of “Anteprima Fiere” (Fair Preview), the Gambero Rosso event that tours Italy’s best wine shops with the country’s wineries, both new and well-established,

is over. Top starring roles were played by not-yet-released recent vintages.On the following pages, you can read our tasting notes.

Save them and check them out during the months to come.

EN PRIMEUR TASTINGS

THE EVENT

MARZO 2016

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THE EVENT/THE WINERIES

The WineriesPIEDMONT

Bel Collefraz. Castagni, 56 |Verduno (CN) |tel. 0172470196 |www.belcolle.it

The Bel Colle vineyards are mostly located in the zones of Verduno and La Morra, with some planted around Asti, Roero and Barbaresco.

its production of Pelaverga,

its nebbiolo-based wines. The Inspiration is traditional, but they are also experimenting with more modern solutions.VERDUNO PELAVERGA ’15Clean and airy fragrances:

-mediate ripe red fruit.Soft tannin, pulpy, enjoyable fruit.

BAROLO MONVIGLIERO ’11Balsamic and alcohol-pre-served red fruit sensations. Great character and mouth-

Bricco Maiolicafraz. Ricca |via Bolangino, 7 |Diano d’Alba (CN) |tel. 0173612049 |www.briccomaiolica.it

Beppe Accomo has been -

tate for thirty years. In this time, he has left behind other crops and concentrated every-

offers numerous other labels. BARBERA D’ALBA SUP. VIGNA VIGIA ’13

and toast, with a spicy element that is in the process of being integrated.NEBBIOLO D’ALBA SUP. CUMOT ’13

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is dense but of praiseworthy extraction.

Cantina Clavesanafraz. Madonna della Neve, 19 |Clavesana (CN) |tel. 0173790451 |www.inclavesana.it

In 1959, 32 members signed an agreement to found the Clavesana cooperative, one of the largest for the produc-

Anna Bracco (director) and Giovanni Bracco (president) head the winery. This is the Langhe, where today over 2,000 families of grapegrow-ers have found a vital uni-

Alta Langa, dolcetto is third in importance, and this co-operative turns out to be one of the most competent in its production. DOGLIANI SUP. IL CLOU ’13

fruit, consistent tannins and good length. DOGLIANI SUP. ALLA GIORNATA 587 ’12Complex fruitiness, with in-

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Cantina Sociale di Vinchio Vaglio Serrareg. San Pancrazio, 1 |Vinchio (AT) |tel. 0141950903 |www.vinchio.com

The long-established coop-erative winery, Vinchio Vaglio Serra, today has almost 200 members. It is still one of the most important winegrowers in the Asti zone and even in all of Piedmont. Most of its

many vines are more than 60 years old, are along the hills of the Alto Monferrato. The soil is mostly calcareous and sandy. Production is generous

-tered on Barbera. BARBERA D’ASTI VIGNE VECCHIE 50 ’13Fruity, admirable complexity and acidic support. BARBERA D’ASTI SUP. I TRE VESCOVI ’13Powerful, with aromas of

An unusual savory note on

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APRIL 2016

www.belcolle.it

www.briccomaiolica.it

www.inclavesana.it

www.vinchio.com

jam.An

jam.An

Ceste Franco di Ceste Pier Guido

Govone (CN) |tel. 017358635 |www.cestevini.com

Guido Ceste is helped in his -

ness by his son Franco, who completed his studies at the Istituto Professionale in Ales-sandria (Piedmont). Ceste began to intensify vineyard

land and planted new vine-yards to offer a broader and better choice of wines. Since the 1990s, the winery is also

with numerous labels from the principal denominations of the Langhe.BARBERA D’ALBA SUP. ’13Fresh fruit, notes of sweet spices and tobacco sensa-tions. Good balance and length.LANGHE PINOT NERO CAMPO ALLE FRATE ’14Marasca cherries and aro-matic herb aromas. Soft pal-ate with evident notes of ripe fruit and sweet spices.

Mauro Sebastefraz. Gallo d’Alba |via Garibaldi, 222bis |Alba (CN) |tel. 0173262148 |www.maurosebaste.it

dominant and unforget-table presence among the

Sebaste has built up his own winery in which he uses grapes of his own and from trusted, long-established

Freisa wine for his mother.

above all from his Barolo selections, constantly dis-tinguished by elegant clas-sicism. NEBBIOLO D’ALBA PARIGI ’13Fine sensations of violets and licorice. Intense spicy notes are perfected with bottle-aging. ROERO ARNEIS ’15Citrus fruit and new-mown grass notes: pleasant, linear freshness. An immediately pleasurable white.

Vite Coltevia Bergesia, 6 |Barolo (CN) |tel. 0173564611 |www.vitecolte.it

Vite Colte (Cultivated Vines) is the new name cho-sen by the Terre da Vino winery to present its new production philosophy to

much for us since these la-bels are ones we have been tasting for years, but for Piero Quadrumolo and

change. Vite Colte is the tip of the group (180 wine-growers cultivate about 300 hectares, including the best in the individual zones) that will enter the regime which has as its goal an absolute search for quality. BARBERA D’ASTI SUP. LA LUNA E I FALÒ ’13Explosive fruit on a palate that is both fresh and vel-vetyBAROLO PAESI TUOI ’11Clean aromas of raspberry and licorice. Rich, power-ful, but never heavy.

LOMBARDY

Cantina Conte Vistarinofraz. Scorzoletta, 82/84 |Pietra de’ Giorgi (PV) |tel. 038585117 |www.contevistarino.it

19th century, Counts Vista-rino and Gancia decided to plant French clones of pinot nero, having chosen the Scu-ropasso valley as ideal for the production of Metodo Clas-

of these great Piedmontese houses carried on. Today the

family estate (828 hectares, of which 200 are vineyard), and under the leadership of the young Ottavia, aims decid-

-tive place.RÏES ’13Peach and bay leaf, pleas-

The palate is supported by a fresh acidic vein and intense minerality. A long and multi-

RÏES ’14

-

sustained by a good acidic -

for decades, but is already very focused.

APRIL 2016

23

c.so

www.cestevini.com

www.maurosebaste.it

www.vitecolte.it

www.contevistarino.it


F.lli Giorgifraz. Camponoce, 39a |Canneto Pavese (PV) |tel. 0385262151 |www.giorgi-wines.it

The winery, led by Antonio Giorgi and by his exuberant

up with the times, managing to permit its two souls to co-exist: one is more commer-

qualitative level symbolized by Pinot Frizzante. The oth-er aims higher, and the best grapes are used to obtain premium products, especial-ly Metodo Classico labels.BRUT CL. TOP ZEROThis pinot nero monovarietal spends 80 months on its lees. Its powerful nose offers tones of raspberries and candied citrus fruit, then a resinous note. The mousse is caressing, the palate dense and reactive,

OP PINOT NERO BRUT 1870 ’11Complex and varied aromas

medicinal herbs. Mineral and juicy on the palate.

ALTO ADIGE

Cantina Produttori Valle Isarco via Coste, 50 |Chiusa/Klausen (BZ) |tel.0472847553 |www.cantinavalleisarco.it

As you ascend Valle Isarco, viticulture becomes rarer, the vineyards are smaller, steeper and terraced. In this context, Cantina Produttori

is the smallest cooperative winery in the province, but the commitment and pas-sion of its 130 members,

-ter, supervises the entire pro-duction process. A. A. VALLE ISARCO SYLVANER ARISTOS ’14Nose ranges from white fruit to mountain herbs. Savory, austere palate, enlivened by

A. A. VALLE ISARCO KERNER ARISTOS ’14Fine and elegant, with aro-matic herbs and citrus fruit on the nose. Full, long and wonderfully fresh.

TUSCANY

Camiglianoloc. Camigliano |via d’Ingresso, 2 |Montalcino (SI) |tel. 0577844068 |www.camigliano.it

Located on the western edge of the vast territory of Mon-talcino, Camigliano is a ham-let with an ancient history, set in the low green growth of pristine nature and enjoying a beautiful view of the Alta Maremma and the Colline Metallifere. The Ghezzi fam-

the 1950s, and cultivate about 100 hectares of vineyard. ROSSO DI MONTALCINO ’14 The personality of the vin-tage is evident: delicately her-baceous notes of underbrush and red berries. A slim body,

resolved.BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO ’11Warm and ripe fruit fragranc-es. Agile palate with focused

Campo alla Sugheraloc. Caccia al Piano, 280 |Bolgheri (LI) |tel. 0565766936 |www.campoallasughera.com

Founded at the end of the 1990s by the Knauf group, the winery has a certain his-toric importance, given the extreme youth of its terri-tory. Campo alla Sughera has about 20 hectares of special-ized vineyard, in which the varieties are mainly cabernet sauvignon and franc, merlot, petit verdot (for the reds); ver-mentino, sauvignon blanc and chardonnay (for the whites). BOLGHERI SUP. ARNIONE ’10Cabernet sauvignon with small percentages of cabernet franc, merlot and petit verdot, it is a red with a generous, complex bouquet. The body is harmonious and well-bal-anced.BOLGHERI ROSSO ADEO ’12 Iodine notes on the nose, along with interesting spicy tones. Light-hearted, long and

25 7640

42 45 53

VISTO SI STAMPI

CAMIGLIANO

DATA:

Sede Legale e Operativa:Via di Seano, 89/A51030 Catena - Quarrata (PT)Tel. 0573 744436/740059 - Fax 0573 740610

BOZZA DI STAMPA

Cortesemente controllare

con cura, controfirmare

e inviare via mail/fax

per accettazione. Grazie

A

SENSO DI SVOLGIMENTO

B C D

1

SENSO DI STAMPA

2 3 4

ABC

ABC AB

C AB

C

5

SENSO DI STAMPA

6 7 8

ABC

ABC

AB

CAB

C

9

SENSO DI STAMPA

10 11 12

13

SENSO DI STAMPA

14

A) MAX DIAM. ROT. ESTERNO: __________

B) ANIMA INTERNA DEL ROTOLO:

C) LARGHEZZA MAX SUPPORTO: __________

ROTOLI DA: _______________________PZ

A

B

C

COLORI A CAMPIONE

FORMATO:100x100,5mm

2011

270mm

108mm

24

APRIL 2016

F.lli

www.giorgi

-wines.it

www.cantinavalleisarco.it

www.camigliano.it

www.campo

allasughera.com

Maria Caterina Deivia di Martiena, 35 |Montepulciano (SI) |tel. 0578716878 |www.cantinedei.com

A great passion for viticul-

land in the Montepulciano territory and plant vineyards.

in 1985 and the process was completed in 1989 with the

-ing facilities. At the beginning of the 1990s, Maria Caterina

and acting, decided to move to Montepulciano, where she

begun by her grandfather. NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO ’12Aromas of plum intertwine with vegetal notes of aro-matic herbs. Pulpy and sub-stantial on the palate, with a

NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO ’13Eucalyptus, mint, gentian and blueberries. Juicy and

crescendo.

Giannoni Fabbriloc. San Marco in Villa, 2 |Cortona (AR) |tel. 3475883939 |www.giannonifabbri.it

The winery of Marco Gian-noni, president of the Cor-tona consortium, carries on a family tradition begun in the 18th century. Since he

seen to a complete overhaul of the vineyards and a ren-

-vest, is exclusively done by hand, because only human

to intervene on the plant. CORTONA SYRAH AMATO ’12

berries on the nose. Solid

CORTONA VIN SANTO ’06Complex nose, with notes of toast, vanilla, assorted spices and dried fruit. Vel-vety entrance on the palate, broad, dense and wonder-fully generous.

Podere La Regolaloc. San Martino |Riparbella (PI) |tel. 0586698145 |www.laregola.com

The Nuti family owns this winery, which rises where an Etruscan village was once lo-cated, a site chosen for its fertil-ity and climate. It was suitable

-ing wine, as witnessed by the numerous antique amphorae found in the zone. Luca Nuti, after studying agriculture, pro-moted the development of the family estate, which already

-

and promotional sector. SPUMANTE BRUT M. CL.Gros manseng, with a little chardonnay: citrus fruit tones, a slight vegetal note, linear and fresh. LA REGOLA ’11Cabernet franc with some merlot and petit verdot; bal-

crisp tannins and a tasty acidic

Poggio Trevvalleloc. Arcille |Campagnatico (GR) |tel. 0564998142 |www.poggiotrevvalle.it

Bernardo and Umberto Valle chose the Maremma to express their passion for wine at the end of the 1990s. They immediately practiced organic agriculture, con-vinced of the correctness of the method to obtain ex-cellent results. Most of the vineyards are dedicated to sangiovese, but some are also planted with international varieties. MORELLINO DI SCANSANO PASSERA ’14Lively notes of cherries and

-

pleasurable.MORELLINO DI SCANSANO PASSERA ’15Full and naturally sweet with fruit, currants, cherry, and a slight peppery note. The pal-ate is already pleasant, Excel-lent acidic contrast, easy-to-

APRIL 2016

25

www.cantinedei.com

www.giannonifabbri.it

www.laregola.com

www.poggiotrevvalle.it

201 2


San Gervasioloc. San Gervasio |via Palaiese |Palaia (PI) |tel. 0587483360 |www.sangervasio.com

Luca Tommasini carried out a complete transformation of the family estate, starting in the mid-1990s. What had been a classic grapegrow-ing property was converted to high-quality production.

bought new hectares of land and planted avant-garde vine-yards, regrafting old vines and

-lution of the winery. A SIRIO ’09Blend of sangiovese and cab-ernet sauvignon. Excellent structure, aromas of red ber-

-vor.A SIRIO ’10Ripe cherry, blond tobacco and earthy notes. Evolved pro-

palate. Tannin still evident.

LAZIO

Casale del Giglioloc. Le Ferriere |s.da Cisterna-Nettuno km 13 | Latina |tel. 0692902530 |www.casaledelgiglio.it

The purchase of a long-established winery on the island of Ponza to vinify biancolella from the sur-rounding vineyards, along with decades-old vine-yards of bellone in the best zones of Anzio confirmed the new interest of Anto-nio Santarelli and enolo-gist Paolo Tiefenthaler in indigenous varieties. Their results are excellent. TEMPRANIJO ’14Red with concentrated aro-mas of cherries and plum. Powerful and extracted.ANTINOO ’14Blend of viognier and chardonnay offering notes of yellow fruit and sweet

development, pleasant

elderberry.

Omina Romanavia Fontana Parata, 75 |Velletri (RM) |tel. 0696430193 |www.ominaromana.com

In 2004, German entre-preneur Anton F. Borner decided to invest in an 80-hectare estate in Vel-

Rome. Claudio Gori and agronomist Paula Pacheco

-nous and international red grapes, along with seven varieties of white grapes, turning out a series of good quality wines. BELLONE BRUT ’13Monovarietal bellone; yel-low peach and bread crust. Fragrant, fresh palate.DIANA MEMORENSIS I ’12Bordeaux blend, with bell pepper and dried spices on the nose. Clean, fresh pal-ate where soft tannins con-fer character.

MARCHE

Santa Barbarab.go Mazzini, 35 |Barbara (AN) |tel. 0719674249 |www.vinisantabarbara.it

Stefano Antonucci always -

cade of experience, his abil-

mood, and his untiring com-mercial dynamism are pow-erful weapons on the com-munication front, where his

he has managed to release a range of wines that in-clude the principal regional denominations and all their possible typologies.VERDICCHIO STEFANO ANTONUCCI CL SUP. ’14Up-front citrus fruit, fresh notes of anise, compact, in-tense, savory character and great elegance. Compared to other editions, it is already very expressive, with a slim-mer and more reactive body.ROSSO PICENO IL MASCHIO DA MONTE ’13Montepulciano; com-pact, fragrant fruit with

26

APRIL 2016

www.sangervasio.com

s.da

www.casaledelgiglio.it

www.ominaromana.com

b.go

www.vini

santabarbara.it

T I N T I L I A D E L M O L I S E / D E N O M I N A Z I O N E D I O R I G I N E P R O T E T T A

MACCHIAROSSA

MOLISE

Claudio Cipressic.da Montagna, 5b |San Felice del Molise (CB) |tel. 0874874535 |www.cantinecipressi.it

A winery that has focused on rediscovering tintilia, the historic indigenous red of the Molise region, man-ages its land with artisanal

Sixteen hectares of organic vineyard produce the excel-lent raw material that Clau-dio Cipressi interprets in a personal style that is also respectful of tradition.MOLISE TINTILIA MACCHIAROSSA ’11Balsamic and spicy notes on the nose; a palate that is sur-

-cate tannins.MOLISE TINTILIA ROSATO COLLEQUINTO ’15Rose, violets, then cur-rants and a light sensation of iron on the nose. In the

enlivened by a tannic coun-terpoint that lends charac-ter and contrast. A charm-ing rosé.

Tenimenti Griecoc.da Difensola |Portocannone (CB) |tel. 0875590032 |www.tenimentigrieco.it

A winery that has a reputa-tion for very carefully made and interesting wines. Larino is in the heart of the Molisano hills, facing the Adriatic Sea. Grieco

also has an agriturismo and a teaching farm, attract-ing cultural tourism that is helpful for the territory. A committed and passionate

-sions of tintilia-based wine, the indigenous variety of Molise.MOLISE TINTILIA ’14Ripe fruit on the nose, good freshness and energy on the palate.MOLISE TINTILIA 200 METRI ’15Nose still developing; the palate has a savory start and progresses calmly.

CAMPANIA

Sanpaolo - Magistravini di Claudio Quartac.da San Paolo |Torrioni (AV) |tel. 0832704398 |www.magistravini.it

Claudio Quarta and his daughter Alessandra run one of the most dynamic and in-teresting wine businesses in southern Italy. Of their three wineries, two are in Puglia, in Salento, and one is in Ir-pinia in Atripalda, half way between Tufo and the village of Torrioni. Their constant research is admirable, aim-ing to improve all aspects of sustainability, experimenting by means of collaborations with universities and avant-garde studies of biodiversity. GRECO DI TUFO CLAUDIO QUARTA ’13Peach, citron and grape-fruit plus tones of medici-nal herbs. Excellent savory depth. PRIMITIVO ORO DI EMÉRA ’12Rich, generous fruity fra-grances of pomegranate and red plum. Fresh, pleasant palate.

Tenuta Cavalier Pepevia Santa Vara |Sant’Angelo all’Esca (AV) |tel. 082773766 |www.tenutapepe.it

-ing from the hill, rows of vines outline a picturesque

-sphere of France. The propri-etor is Angelo Pepe, a famous restaurateur in Belgium, who was named a Cavaliere della Repubblica in Italy, a title

Italian food culture abroad. Since 2005, his enologist daughter Milena has been at his side in this winery. TAURASI LA LOGGIA DEL CAVALIERE RIS. ’09

and juniper berries; well-ar-ticulated, long and deep on the palate.FIANO DI AVELLINO BRANCATO ’14Alternates tones of yellow peach, tropical fruit and

Still nervous and not completely resolved.

APRIL 2016

27

c.da

www.cantinecipressi.it

c.da

www.tenimentigrieco.it

c.da

www.magistravini.it

www.tenutapepe.it


BASILICATA

Martinovia La Vista, 2a |Rionero in Vulture (PZ) |tel. 0972721422 |www.martinovini.com

The young Carolin Martino

Armando at the helm of this long-established winery, and divides her time between the family business and the Con-

-ture, which she heads. Marti-no today has a super-modern winery in Rionero and vine-yards in the best positions in the zone, such as the Bel Pog-gio estate in Ginestra. The grapes from their own prop-erty cover about one-third

The rest are purchased. AGLIANICO DEL VULTURE PRETORIANO ’10Elegance, structure and bal-

-nal herbs. AGLIANICO DEL VULTURE BEL POGGIO ’10Cherry and marasca cherry:

licorice tones.

PUGLIA

Cantine San Marzanovia Regina Margherita, 149 |San Marzano di San Giuseppe (TA) |tel.0999576100 |www.cantinesanmarzano.com

The many labels (23, ar-ticulated in different lines) produced by this coopera-tive winery come from over 1,200 contributing members followed all year by the win-ery staff. It is one of the most important winegrowing busi-nesses in all of Salento. Most of the vineyards are located in the municipalities of San Marzano, Sava and Francav-illa Fontana.PRIMITIVO DI MANDURIA SESSANTANNI ’12Great concentration of ripe

earthy notes. The palate is en-ergetic and substantial, dense and well-contrasted by sapid-ity and elegant tannins.ESTELLA MOSCATO ’15

of yellow fruit and almond. Fresh and enjoyable on the palate.

Paolo Leovia Tuturano, 21 |San Donaci (BR) |tel. 0831635073 |www.paololeo.it

The entire Leo family, grape-growers for four generations,

-ning of this winery, founded in 1989. The vineyards lie principally on tufaceous and calcareous soil in the munici-

-cal trellis plantings and 40-year old alberello vineyards. The principal varieties are the classic indigenous ones of Salento: negroamaro, malva-sia nera di Lecce, malvasia bi-anca, and primitivo, as well as

TRIADE ROSSO ’13Blend of primitivo, negroa-maro and nero di troia, it presents notes of fruit and

by excessive alcoholic heat.SALICE SALENTINO NERIMATTI RIS. ’10

and dried aromatic herbs. Rich palate with still-tight tannin and good substance.

Risveglio Agricoloc.da Torre Mozza |Brindisi |tel. 0831519948 |www.cantinerisveglio.it

Risveglio Agricolo is one -

tive wineries. It is headed by Giovanni Nardelli, an agronomist with a passion for enology. Founded in 1958 by a group of Brindisi grapegrowers, today it is an icon of viticulture for Pug-liese wine fans, not only in the zone itself, but in all of Italy. Labels of this coop-erative have even reached

-ders, and these bottles also appear on Swiss and Ger-man tables.72100 ’13

notes. Negroamaro with

-bone and depth.BRINDISI ROSSO SIMPOSIO RIS. ’10Negroamaro and malvasia; pleasant, displaying sweet tones with notes of cherry and chocolate.

L. 0

00-0

0

PRODOTTO IN ITALIA

13,50% Vol750 ml

CONTIENE SOLFITI - CONTAINS SULPHITES - ENTHÄLT SULFITE

BEL POGGIOAGLIANICO DEL VULTURE

DENOMINAZIONE DI ORIGINE PROTETTA

Ottenuto dalla vinificazione in purezza di uve

Aglianico dell’area del Vulture, offre profumi

intensi e speziati, una bocca morbida, calda e

vellutata frutto di un sapiente affinamento in

rovere francese. Accompagna ottimamente

arrosti, selvaggina e formaggi dal gusto forte.

Stappare qualche ora prima di servire a 18-20 °C.

Vinificato e imbottigliato da

Casa vinicola Armando Martino s.r.l.

Rionero in Vulture (PZ) ITALIA

+39 0972 72 14 22 - www.martinovini.com

28

APRIL 2016

www.martinovini.com

www.cantine

sanmarzano.com

www.paololeo.it

c.da

www.cantinerisveglio.it

VERMENTINO DI GALLURA DOCG

RENADORO

DESCRIZIONE:

E’ un vino molto caratteristico, equilibrato

e ben strutturato. Il terreno, la posizione

geografica e la bassa resa di uva, gli

conferiscono la sua tipicità inconfondibile. Ha riflessi verdognoli ed è morbido.

Conservare a 15/18° C, và servito a

8/10°C.

Provenienza: Gallura, Sardegna Vinificazione: In bianco con pressatura

soffice e fermentazione a 18 ° C in

contenitori di acciaio inox Gradazione:

13% Vol. Acidità totale: 5,2 g/l Zuccheri: 3,0 g/l

Capacità-Capacity 0,75 lt Casse/Pallet-Cases/Pallet 95

Unità-Cassa-Unit 6 Casse/Strato-Cases/Layer 19

Peso Cassa-Weight Casse 7,8 kg Strati/Pallet-Layers/Pallet 5

Dimensione Cassa-Case Dimension

Altezza Pallet-Pallets Height 170 cm

Tipo Pallet-Type of Pallet EPAL

Base-Length 25 cm Barcode

Profondità-Width 16,5 cm

Altezza-Height 30cm

SICILY

Tenuta Coste Ghirlanda loc. Piana di Ghirlanda |Pantelleria (TP) |tel. 3388244649 |www.costeghirlanda.it

Coste Ghirlanda shows the best of Pantelleria by wel-coming guests and serving excellent food and wine. This young winery in the center of the island is marvelously promising. Two estates grow zibibbo grapes: Montagnole, in a splendid nature reserve, where the vineyards face Sic-ily, and Nikà, where the day ends with beautiful sunsets towards the coast of Tunisia.SILENZIO ’13From zibibbo grapes, the wine displays elegant notes of sage and orange blossom on the nose. Dynamic palate.PASSITO DI PANTELLERIA ALCOVA ’12Wonderfully complex nose. Sunny fruit, sweet, and very long on the palate.

SARDINIA

Vigneti Zanattavia Spirito Santo |Olbia |tel. 3926947269 |www.vignetizanatta.it

The Zanatta family (in the photo, Marco, son of Bruno Zanatta) has been making premium wines in Sardinia for a long time. To guarantee quality, careful attention to production methods is key: the grapes come from the estate’s own vineyards, har-vested when fully ripe, trans-ported to their own cellars and soft-pressed. The must is then fermented at controlled temperatures.CANNONAU DI SARDEGNA SALANA ’14Myrtle and wild berry aro-mas, slightly spicy, ready to drink now..VERMENTINO DI GALLURA RENADORO ’15Aromatic herbs and yel-low fruit. Palate played on a sweet/bitter contrast.

CANNONAU DI SARDEGNA DOC

SALANA

Di colore granato vivace, ha profumo

intenso, persistente, ampio ed etereo. Il

Cannonau di Sardegna sopporta lunghi

invecchiamenti. Va conservato in una

cantina fresca, a temperatura costante e

buia. Ideale con piatti molto strutturati quali

le carni rosse, la selvaggina da penna e da

pelo, ottimo anche con formaggio pecorino.

Servire ad una temperatura di circa 18-20°C.

Provenienza: Nord Sardegna

Vinificazione: Criomacerazione per 2 giorni e

successiva macerazione tradizionale per 8-10

g i o rn i i n con ten i to r i i nox ad una

temperatura di 24-26° C.

Gradazione: 13,5% Vol.

Acidità totale: 4,6 g/l

Zuccheri: 2,0 g/l

Capacità-Capacity 0,75 lt Casse/Pallet-Cases/Pallet 95

Unità-Cassa-Unit 6 Casse/Strato-Cases/Layer 19

Peso Cassa-Weight Casse 7,8 kg Strati/Pallet-Layers/Pallet 5

Dimensione Cassa-Case Dimension

Altezza Pallet-Pallets Height 170 cm

Tipo Pallet-Type of Pallet EPAL

Base-Length 25 cm Barcode

Profondità-Width 16,5 cm

Altezza-Height 30cm

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An indispensable tool for foodiesbut even more so for industry insiders

promoting the best of Made-in-Italy worldwide

www.gamberorosso.it

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www.vignetizanatta.it

http://www.gamberorosso.it/store/libri-e-guide/top-italian-food-beverage-experience-detail

bortolomiol.com

Discover the new Bortolomiol Tradizionali collection.

http://www.bortolomiol.com/

ANTEPRIME

ANTEPRIMEAmaroneand Brunello

APRIL 2016

31

TUSCAN ANTEPRIME

It isn’t easy to choose what to highlight in a zone of well-known fame and talent, and with 127 wineries presenting their 2010 reserve wines and their 2011 Brunello labels. The tasting was par-ticularly important because this edition, number

-nition of the protected territorial denomination (the DOC) of Brunello di Montalcino. Over all, the vintage years proved to be valid. The tast-ings took place, as they have for some years, in the splendid Cloister Museo di Montalcino. The wines in the tasting were: Brunello di Montalci-no 2011, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2010, Rosso di Montalcino 2014 and 2013, Moscadello di Montalcino and various Sant’Antimo labels. We’ll tell you about those that struck us the most.

Brunello, 2010 and 2011 vintageson the 50th anniversary of the DOC

by Paolo De Cristofaro and Gianni Fabrizio

BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2011Armilla | www.armillawine.comThis little winery belonging to Silverio Marchetti grew, step by step, after its

wife, daughters and grandchildren car-ry on his work. Two hectares of vine-yard, planted in the Tavernelle zone in

with a clean, wonderful note of red berries intertwined with hints of sweet tobacco. Tight tannins are balanced by soft, pulpy fruit. A promising discovery.

Barbi | www.fattoriadeibarbi.it

in a zone that is so frenetically concerned about international markets. An old style

wine, in the best sense of the term, it

incense and a touch of plum that reminds us of the hot vintage year. The palate is

-tained by a vigorous tannin structure to a

Capanna | www.capannamontalcino.comAfter receiving rave reviews from wine

unanimously appreciated Patrizio Cen-

no intention of resting on its laurels. In

tobacco and licorice are elements in a

an assertive tannic structure. A wine of great depth and length that should age for a long time in the cellar.

Fanti | www.tenutafanti.it

his daughter Elisa, who has been full time at the winery since 2007, represents

32

APRIL 2016

www.armillawine.com

www.fattoriadeibarbi.it

www.capannamontalcino.com

www.tenutafanti.it

an archetype of the sangiovese grown in the southeastern part of the Montalcino

has ripe aromas of cherry and plum with hints of sweet spices and tobacco. In the mouth, a dense tannic texture and solid, correct acidity is balanced by the envel-oping softness of alcohol that caresses the palate.

Il Marroneto | www.ilmarroneto.com

-nized the magic that often accompanies

-den treasure of the northern slope of Montalcino,” as described by revered wine writer, Luigi Veronelli. The Ma-donna delle Grazie cru is by now con-sidered the star of the denomination, but in the tastings of 2011, in this phase

-gamot, spices, an edgy tannic charge, but with savory sweetness dictating the

ery today belongs to the Illy family and

done it again with Vigna Loreto 2011, a

stony, thermal tones deepening luxuri-ant fruity aromas. If you must look for a fault, it could be the slightly less dense

unquestionable.

Canalicchio – Franco Pacenti | www.canalicchiofrancopacenti.itIn a steamy vintage year like 2011, we

the northern slope of Montalcino. Not at all. Among the exceptions, is this one

-listically it is very recognizable for its un-usual dialogue between youthful fruity tones (pomegranate and mandarin) and

-

-sion.

Piancornello | www.lacortedeiventi.it

His vineyards are planted on the red soil of the southernmost part of the Mon-talcino municipality, between Castel-

an exposure towards Orcia and Monte Amiata. The wines have generous fra-grances of plum jam and medicinal herbs, austere tannins and, above all, a striking savory vein.

Pieri Agostina | www.pieriagostina.itAgostina Pieri, with the help of her sons,

from the start. In the most recent releas-es, however, the wines grew in harmony

vineyards in Piancornello, stands out for the natural freshness of its nose (cherry, violets, tobacco) and for the amazing dy-

Le Chiuse | www.aziendaagricolalechiuse.it

but also multi-faceted and vital, a san-giovese that above all reveals the inter-pretative know-how of Simonetta Val-iani, Niccolò and Lorenzo Magnelli. A triumph of red fruit, a saline backdrop, hints of berries and resin, a touch of black olive, it joins an evident Mediter-ranean temperament with a rigorous,

now, the depth of the super version.

Le Potazzine | www.lepotazzine.itJoyous, slender, empathetic, the 2011

the hot and dry vintage year, more and more common in Montalcino recently.

generous fruit and the clarity of the bal-samic and medicinal herb shading are evident, even more in the foreground on

marked by a moderate yet slightly unbal-anced tannic structure.

Le Ragnaie | Brunello di Montalcino V.V. | www.leragnaie.comAnother masterful release from Le Rag-

2011 bottles. Among them, the complex

both for its aromatic tones (wild straw-berry, oriental spices, woodsy essences), and for the long lines and penetrating

-sial vintage year is evident in the brusque

the wine is decidedly a success.

Mastrojanni | Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Loreto | www.mastrojanni.comMastrojanni has gotten us accustomed once more to a standard that is simply impressive. The long-established win-

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33

www.ilmarroneto.com

www.canalicchiofrancopacenti.it

www.lacortedeiventi.it

www.pieriagostina.it

www.aziendaagricolalechiuse.it

www.lepotazzine.it

www.leragnaie.com

www.mastrojanni.com

W E M O V E P R E C I O U S C O M M O D I T I E S : Y O U R S .

http://www2.ggori.com/

TUSCAN ANTEPRIME

age altitude of 450 meters, and to its

the Gloder family expresses the most

Montalcino territory. On a base of ripe cherry, complex hints of sweet spices and tobacco emerge, along with the sweetness of tannins and underlying, measured acidity. This is a harmonious

Poggio di Sotto | www.collemassari.itA reading of the vintage year in full Poggio di Sotto style is evident from the

-berry jelly, dried violets, ginseng, me-

-fully reappears in the intense and at the same time rigorous palate. Sweet fruit, tonic, refreshing, with only large-grain

a version worth keeping an eye on.

Sanlorenzo | Brunello di Montalcino Bramante 2011 | sanlorenzomontalcino.it

--

Montalcino-esque, with the austere and Mediterranean accents of the southwestern area where it originates.

-terranean brush and burned wood, its

a caressing palate at the start and a

seems, as usual, one of the wines that is lagging in its evolution, but also one of the most promising.

Vasco Sassetti | Brunello di Montalcino 2011

-setti family has grown sangiovese vine-yards since the beginning of the 20th century, but with Vasco Sassetti, the winery took a marked and irreversible turn towards top quality wines sold by the bottle. With the 2011 vintage, the

Pietroso | www.pietroso.itSince 1995, when Gianni Pignattai in-herited the family winery, production has been limited only to Rosso and

three vineyards with different altitudes and microclimates, and from grapes worked in a straightforward manner,

-pression of the territory. The 2011 is full of personality, with its complex aromas of cherry, licorice and damp soil on the nose and its impressive

-nins on the palate.

Poggio Antico | Brunello di Montalcino Altero | www.poggioantico.com

-ing on stony, calcareous soil at an aver-

fruity aromas take on a tone of cherry marmalade, and the alcohol, less dis-creet than usual, emphasizes the soft-

-come savory note arrives to balance

Sesti | www.sestiwine.comThe Castello di Argiano lies in the most southwestern part of the Mon-talcino municipality, where roe deer and wild boars are more common than human beings. The Sesti family has gotten us used to excellent reviews of its wine. After a somewhat open be-ginning, where medicinal herbs from

Juicy fullness, docile tannins and sa-pidity are the leitmotiv of the tasting.

Talenti | www.talentimontalcino.it-

ery, but Riccardo Talenti seems to have moved into a new dimension

-

the most enthralling and satisfying in

complex, but almost whispered in its stately aromatic pace. It changes gear on the palate into a sweet and saline, continuous, elegant mouthful. The tannin is severe, but drying only for

and mulberry.

Uccelliera | www.uccelliera-montalcino.it

controversial. Either you love them and accept their stylistic license, or their decisive, assertive character leaves you perplexed. The vineyards

great heat of the subzone. On the nose, aromas of tobacco, plum and co-coa have a southern accent. The wine has impressive structure, with tannins that are still rough but dense and pro-gressive.

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35

www.collemassari.it

sanlorenzomontalcino.it

www.pietroso.it

www.poggioantico.com

www.sestiwine.com

www.talentimontalcino.it

www.uccelliera

-montalcino.it

TUSCAN ANTEPRIME

BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO RISERVA 2010Le Chiuse di Sotto - Gianni Brunelli | www.giannibrunelli.it

-use di Sotto, like many others, is the product of a blend of grapes. Maria Laura Vacca, just as her husband and

did, found the secret of harmony by blending the sangiovese from Poderno-vone (350 meters above sea level, facing Monte Amiata) with that from Chiuse

studied power under an aromatic fruity

Canalicchio di Sopra | www.canalicchiodisopra.com

for more maturity and power, the one from Canalicchio di Sopra is regularly notable for its original character. The

illuminates its double soul, rigorous bit-ing and tasting tannin, joyfully juicy, cit-rusy fruit, almost salty.

Il Poggione | Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Paganelli Ris. 2010 | www.tenutailpoggione.it

the southern slope of Montalcino, Vi-gna Paganelli Riserva 2010 from Il Pog-

that was cool overall conferred fruity integrity and a certain aromatic ampli-tude, with balsamic, spicy, and medici-nal herb scents. The usual tannic den-sity is present, but the texture is pulpy and tight, not drying, and allows the savory tonic tone to last for the entire mouthful.

La Fortuna | www.tenutalafortuna.itA few years ago, the Zannoni family celebrated the hundredth anniversary

northeast of the Montalcino center. Over the years, they added vineyards

the present-day 18 hectares. A deep

both charm and depth thanks to a com-pact and vigorous palate. It is probably worth the trouble to wait for it for an-

life is a sure thing.

Caprili | www.caprili.it-

mei family is one of the few in Montalci-

Riserva. A new example appears with the 2010. It starts off slightly reduced

just-gathered currants and blackberries, incense, wax, plowed soil aromas. The palate also is typical of Montalcino to

needs time to soften and harmonize the dense tannin.

Fattoi | www.fattoi.it-

very little. It is certainly the interpreta-tion that best embodies the concept of

without losing in precision and balance. Iodine, earth, roots, and a vital nose that

VENDEMMIA 2011UNCORK WITHOUT CONCERNA good vintage year – uncork without concern. This could be the motto

and trade operators on the occasion of Benvenuto Brunello – Edition

summer luminous and normal, without excesses. But in mid-August there was a long stretch of humid heat, high temperatures, little ther-mal excursion and frequent scirocco winds. The year’s climate is per-ceptible in a large series of wines that are aromatically open, with a Mediterranean feel, mainly focused on ripe fruit, spices, underbrush.

noticeable on the development of the palate, marked by sensations of drying, even dehydration. These factors are due to a tannic weave that

But what is lacking in harmony and depth is well-compensated for, in -

vorful structure that works well with a wide range of pairings. It is a vintage year that the wine shop owners, restaurants and wine bar man-agers will like, a Brunello ideal for drinking by the glass, and probably worth enjoying in its youthful phase, or little more.

36

APRIL 2016

www.giannibrunelli.it

www.canalicchiodisopra.com

www.tenutailpoggione.it

www.tenutalafortuna.it

www.caprili.it

www.fattoi.it

http://www.consorziobrunellomontalcino.it

TUSCAN ANTEPRIME

knowledge of their own territory al-lows the Zannoni to offer a few bottles

the best years. On the nose it reveals a contrast between fruity clarity and spicy sweetness, while on the palate, fresh

-tribute to shaping its character.

Lisini | Brunello di Montalcino Ugolaia 2010 | www.lisini.comToday the grandchildren of that ex-traordinary Montalcino personality Elina Lisini, manage this historic win-ery, located in the southern part of the municipality. The family has the good fortune to own, among the over 20 hect-ares of sangiovese vineyard, some of the oldest vines in the DOC, dating back to the 1930s and 1940s. Vigna Ugolaia is one. The 2010 offers all the warmth of its origin, with opulent fruity aromas re-freshed by notes of tobacco, mint and damp soil. On the palate, extraordinary tactile fullness is balanced by tannins and acidity.

Podere Le Ripi | Brunello di Montalcino Lupi e Sirene Ris. | www.podereleripi.it

coffee entrepreneurs, has owned this

-terpreted his work courageously, plant-ing vineyards at stunning densities and cultivating them according to natural and biodynamic principals. After 48 months of aging in large oak casks, the resulting wine is simply extraordinary. In a nose of great personality, the fruity character marries darker aromas of lic-orice and medicinal herbs. The mouth

-vory and long.

Tenuta di Sesta | www.tenutadisesta.itThe light, progressive style of the

Sesta won us over immediately. The nose is decidedly spring-like, with petals, berries both red and black, almost like

a white wine, and with earthy and bal--

ness and a sense of proportions are also respected on the palate, sustained by vertical character and by saline energy, more than by volume.

Solaria | Brunello di Montalcino 123 Ris. | www.solariacencioni.com The winery was founded in the 1950s thanks to Giuseppe Cencioni, but the aim of producing quality wines came in 1989 with his granddaughter, Patrizia. The wines produced come from ten hectares of vineyard on a plateau about 300 meters above sea level in the south-east zone of Montalcino. The wine has a modern, but not too modern style, with an eye always to tradition as well. In the 2010 Riserva, notes of red fruit and licorice, enriched by sensations of leather on the nose. The mouth is deep and juicy, with a stern tannic texture

RISERVA 2010GREAT EXPECTATIONS, SOME DISAPPOINTMENTS

-ing. Expectations were legitimately high, considering the brilliant performances of many of the regular versions of the year, described enthusiastically in the 2016 edition of Vini d’Italia. It may seem a con-tradiction, but it’s not. The stylistic limitations come forward in an evident way, more than the elements of the vintage year. For too long,

as an ‘important wine’, but basically in a quantitative key. Therefore, more mature fruit, more power, more extractive, the contribution of

drier, more than austere, lacking energy and drinkability, don’t add much to the respective base wines, physiological exceptions aside. Moreover, it is right and normal to take into account the prestige and

-

especially by Anglo-Saxon wine critics. Brunello is a globally famous brand. The cost of land, of grapes and bulk wines explain it better than any logical reconstruction can. This is also why we expect a fur-ther leap in quality in terms of interpretative sensibility for the more ambitious types, which would be, at least in theory, also those with the deepest roots in tradition.

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APRIL 2016

www.lisini.com

www.podereleripi.it

www.tenutadisesta.it

www.solariacencioni.com

CONTRADA CIPARSIA

CASTROVILLARI (CS)

CALABRIA

www.tenuteferrocinto.it

vini del pollino

http://www.tenuteferrocinto.it/

VENETO ANTEPRIME

2012 was a complicated year, up-hill all the way for most of Italy, as well as for the rest of Europe. In Valpolicella, the spring was fairly damp, while between June and August there were four heat waves, with peak temperatures even above those of the dread-ful 2003, along with major water stress. Precipitation was down 35% compared to normal lev-els. Grapegrowers were able to breathe freely only at the end of the summer, thanks to cooler, more linear weather. We blind-tasted all 77 Amarone 2012 labels at the Anteprima (preview) orga-nized by the local Consorzio. Six-ty percent were samples from the barrel (see below, indicated as da

botte). Missing were the labels from the Famiglie dell’Amarone d’arte, which don’t belong to the Consorzio. In our tastings, we found a series of ready and ex-pressive wines, in some cases al-ready low on energy, with marked fruity components on one hand, but also with a consistently more thoughtful use of oak and less concentration than you might ex-pect. As a result, sometimes the sugar component of the vintage was accentuated, but there was no shortage of seductive wines with full, ripe fruit. All in all, the Amarone vintage year makes itself felt and seems to express

-erations: more than ever the vineyards on the upper slopes are markedly different and the selections of the so-called base very often achieved much higher

Amarone. 2012, a vintage ready to drink

Viviani | Amarone della VapolicellaClassico 2012 (da botte) | www.cantinaviviani.comSeductive and well-articulated scents that range from ground coffee to herbs, along with fragrant, ripe, pulpy fruit. The palate proves to be taut, agile, very natural in its expression,

off very well, prolonged by a long re-turn of Asian spices. Elegant and very pleasant.

Ca’ dei Frati | Amarone della Valpolicella 2012 (da botte) | www.cadeifrati.itDark, dense and compact wine. Tones of black pepper, bitter cocoa and underbrush lead into a densely rich but never weak palate, enlivened by rhythmic and well-paced taste

mint and pencil lead. The balance of all the components is praiseworthy.

Monte Zovo – Cottini | Amarone della Valpolicella

Monte Danieli 2012 (da botte) |

www.paolocottini.itOne of the most interesting surprises. A wine of praise-worthy elegance, with a

-ness, ranging from blond tobacco to freshly-ground pepper, a measured bal-

well-calibrated sweet fruiti-ness. A savory tone is clear

and pronounced, the tasting path incisive and satisfying. The

Corte San Benedetto | Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2012 (da botte) | www.cortesanbenedetto.itLess evolved compared to the other samples tasted, but with notable ten-

is warm and enveloping, while the palate changes gear with decisive,

and bitter cocoa.

Corte Rugolin | Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Monte Danieli 2012 (da botte) | www.corterugolin.it

about 350 meters above sea level. The wine seems like the child of another

acidic contrast, certainly not yet re-solved, but with notable depth of

a truly interesting evolution in the bottle.

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APRIL 2016

www.cantinaviviani.com

www.cadeifrati.it

www.paolocottini.it

www.cortesanbenedetto.it

www.corterugolin.it

Sartori | Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Reius 2012 | www.sartorinet.comGood basic harmony in this wine that combines a dark, dense and delicious fruity timbre with well-calibrated extraction in oak. Tones of licorice and pencil lead into a creamy, agile palate and a

Pasqua Vigneti e Cantina | Amarone della Valpolicella Famiglia Pasqua 2012 | www.pasqua.it

and a fairly clear smoky note, which little by little leave space for ripe black fruit tones and sensa-tions of orange peel. The palate has a different pace and an excellent savory tone, fruit that is

aromatic length.

Cantina Valpantena Verona | Amarone della Valpolicella Torre del Falasco 2012 | www.cantinavalpantena.itAn immediate and very pleasant Amarone. Opens on notes of oriental spices, tobacco and alcohol-preserved cherries, enlivened by a pal-ate that is already well-resolved and dynamic, with ripe and truly pleasurable fruit and a cre-

less than 30 euros in wine shops.

Cantina Valpolicella Negrar | Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Domini Veneti 2012 | www.cantinanegrar.it

-vor balance. It opens on aromas of coffee, bitter cocoa and warm, enveloping notes of currants. The mouth is rich and pulpy, lively, with an in-triguing spicy undertone, sensations of thyme and sweet tannins.

Corte Sant’Alda | Valpolicella Ca’ Fiui 2014 | www.cortesantalda.itDrink slightly chilled. The color is pale and in-viting. Pure and clear fragrances of cherries,

Delicious and spontaneous in the mouth, it has a

-utes. During the Amarone presentation dinner for journalists, it was by far the wine most reached for.

APRIL 2016

41

www.sartorinet.com

www.pasqua.it

www.cantinavalpantena.it

www.cantinanegrar.it

www.cortesantalda.it

TRAVEL

The chef, who has been the symbol of Verona’s

hospitality for twenty-five years, tells about the many

culinary sites he createdin the city he returned to a

little over a year ago,to realize his dream

by Maurizio Berteraphotos by Aromi Creativi

Perbellini talks abouthis favorite places

VERONA LA MIA CASA

Perbellini talks abouthis favorite places

APRIL 2016

43

TRAVEL

From Castel San Pietro – “Be sure you get there on foot, by the staircase to the side of the Teatro Romano” – the view over the city of Romeo and Ju-

liet is spectacular, and especially so on a winter day when the sun is re-

Perbellini, symbol and idol of Ve-

went to my places in the city and

hoped for the success of Casa Per-

in his gourmet jewel box in Piazza San Zeno, local food and wine fans,

the other hand, to the chef ’s dis-may, tourists are beginning to disap-

“We had the most elegant tourism -

think it was an error to aim for mass -

lems with hotels, although the overall quality of restaurants is better than

least a dozen excellent places, more than Mantua, Brescia or Vicenza, for

Perbellini has been a star in Verona

unmissable place) he opened San

launched a revolution in Verona on

of traditional cucina in Verona and

young adventure about it, the plea-sure of doing things together with people you like, who are partners at the start or who become so dur-ing the work and at the end, they

not everyone is suited to opening a

network of places that are always in-teresting, curated in every detail, and

-ents that go to more than one in the same week, and then to Casa Perbel-

sense, having different places stimu-

a while, they want to see Piazza San

The birth of the new concept led to another original idea, a mini-hotel

called Cinque, for the number of its -

dent access, since there’s no recep-

44

APRIL 2016

of the architect who did our last

to be able to offer hospitality to those who were visiting from far away, he came up with this bright idea, restor-

like it because the rooms have an in-

peculiarity of this street hotel is the Tarantino-inspired naming of the

-

de Cope (the two of cups, a tarot card), a pizzeria that has had every table full for over a decade, with

“We were thinking about real Nea-

good pizza was just beginning to be

which is truly Neapolitan, the moz-zarella and tomatoes used are all

FO

TO

ME

RL

O

TRAVEL

from Campania, and the special piz-

Cope is the beer selection – about twenty artisanal brands, selected by

next door is Tapasotto, a place that’s not easily categorized, but that wins

like a cicchetteria veneziana (a snack and wine bar), a little like a tapas bar, and a little like a osteria, since the classic little plates can be followed by a more

of sharing delicious dishes, drinking

New York while we were launching

-

a dynamic pair, chef Federico Zonta

immediately suggest the sea, but all Veronesi consider it a must for an all-

best restaurant in town with superior

want to compete, but to offer seafood -

thing depends on the availability in the market, with appealing ideas like

more famous, and not only in Ve-

the ideal formula, and you have to

GIANCARLO’S CHOICESWhat can you ask a chef who has everything of his own what he thinks about someone else’s food and wine in his city? We tried anyway, and we did get answers. “Right in front of Lo-canda 4 Cuochi is Osteria La Mandorla, a big wine bar where you can drink until late into the night. For breakfast, a look at the newspa-pers and a chat, I go to Urban Café, also in Via Mario Alberto. Another nice place is the CAFÉ CARDUCCI in the heart of Veronetta (www.cafecarducci.it) which is great for an aperitif or for a cheese platter to have with one of the many wines in their cellar. I like their retro atmosphere, which reminds me of Paris. For gelato, I would choose NIQU in Borgo Roma (www.niqugelateria.it) and L’ARTE DEL GE-LATO in via Leoni. Outside the city, I’ve al-ways liked the TRATTORIA ALLA RUOTA in Negrar (www.trattoriaallaruota.it), in wine country, with its menu and lovely outdoor space. In Roverchiara, I adore LE 4 CIACOLE, an inn that has as its slogan ‘magnar, bear e dormir”, eat, drink and sleep! It offers many niche products and has a great wine cellar (www.le4ciacole.it). Another place to visit, in San Giovanni Lupatoto, is CAPRINI BOTTEGA & CUCINA (www.icaprini.it. They have a hun-dred different kinds of cheese and thirty types of cured meats.”

AL CAPITAN, CAPUN MAGRO, SEAFOOD MEDLEY

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APRIL 2016

www.cafecarducci.it

www.cafecarducci.it

www.niqugelateria.it

www.trattoriaallaruota.it

www.le4ciacole.it

www.icaprini.it

Family traditionssince 5 generations

Via Costabella, 9 - 37011 Bardolino (VR) Lago di Garda - Tel. +39 045 7210022 - zeni.it

http://zeni.it/en/index.php

TRAVEL

-ing all my life, that appeared at the

example of how to serve good dishes (“they are reinterpretations of cucina italiana in a contemporary key”, says Perbellini) in a pleasant ambience, where the brigade, let by Moreno

contributes above-average enthusi-

which eliminates the expensive cuts -

ros, and there’s even a small tasting

son and grandson of a family that wrote the history of Veneto’s pastry-making, would be having special

more a chef than a pastry cook,”

-

supplying the other restaurants, but

(rice tarts) are unmatched in Vero-na, but our little pastries, brioches

of Perbellini in the city, we ask him

goodness’ sake, better to avoid -

mit myself to change the quality of

in an important tourist destination where we can speak with the insti-tutions and explain that we need to think more about the decorum of

that Perbellini is not about to en-ter politics, but any future mayor should pay attention to him, if for no other reason than the great love he feels for Verona and its inhabit-

AL CAPITAN. CHEF ANDREA MANZOLI WITH THE SOUSCHEF

A DISH AT TAPASOTTO

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APRIL 2016

Vineyard for Vineyard. Wine for Wine.www.kellerei-kurtatsch.it


text and photographyby Antonella Cecconi

TRAVEL

CUBAthe allure of

the Caribbean

phot

o by

Pao

lo G

otti

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APRIL 2016

In a period of effervescent transition,after the reopening of embassies and the recent trip

of the pope, this Caribbean island is a fascinating place to visit. It is exciting to experience the blend

between old style and the new on its way in

Massimo Bottura will launch his restaurant here before next Christ-mas and a free mega-concert by the Rolling

Stones is scheduled for March 25, 2016. “Cuba will be the new desti-nation over the next ten years,” says Italy’s number one chef. He wants to open, together with Andoni Luis Aduriz from Mugaritz in San Sebas-tian and Enrique Olvera of Pujol in Mexico City, a restaurant that offers a mix of Mediterranean-Caribbe-an food seasoned with good music. Quality ingredients are abundant

free-range chicken. Cuba is an Eden where visitors can forget winter, enjoy the sparkling aromas of sea breezes, combine cocktails and Ca-ribbean rhythms. Although the island is rich in history and art, it has been tested by decades of embargo. The

atmosphere of the 1960s has been

style cars and the absence of the -

vides the basic needs of the people, wide-spread consumerism is still a mirage. The marks of colonialism are evident in the sumptuous art nou-veau architecture, some of it in decay, some splendidly restored. The Grand Hotel is only for foreigners, and the double money system is confusing (1 CUC is a convertible Cuban peso, worth about 1 euro or a little over a dollar for tourists and for imports, and equal to about 29 Cuban pesos, the moneda nacional, or CUP). Just outside the capital city, nature is pristine: deserted beaches, wetlands, tropical forest. Almost a quarter of the island’s nature is protected. Visi-tors can best see Cuba by renting a four-wheel drive or traveling on the comfortable Viazul, air-conditioned

TRAVEL

buses for tourists. A tour of the west-ern half of the island can begin at the national park of the Valle de Vi-ñales: palm trees, corn and tobacco

mogotes, the limestone-karst panettone-shaped rocks from the Ju-rassic period (160 million years ago). Riding a horse through the silent val-ley feels like traveling back in time. Visit a tobacco plantation where the iconic puros are made, the natural cigars that Che Guevara smoked. The Cueva del Indio is a system of caverns that lead to an underground river. After a section on foot, explo-ration continues in a motor boat. The best view of the valley is from Los Jazmines, the hotel near the La Terraza restaurant, set in lush vegeta-tion. For a day at the sea, go north to Cayo Jutías, an island linked by causeway to the main land and its white beach-es. To the southeast is the peninsula

PALACIO DE LOS CAPITANES GENERALES, HOME OF THE MUSEO DE LA CIUDAD

HAVANA

Havana covers a lot of ground and includes many different neighborhoods, from modern Vedado to the historic center, La Habana Vie-ja. Ignore the potholes in the sidewalks but notice the repair work going on everywhere. Relax into the magic of the old city. In the im-portant streets – calle Obispo, Mercaderes, de la Obra Pia – an enchanting mix of archi-tecture surrounds you: Spanish buildings, co-lonial homes, pastel-colored houses and aged art deco pharmacies. The historic plazas are alluring: Plaza de la Catedral (San Cristóbal), Plaza de Armas (with the multicolored book market and Museo de la Ciudad), Plaza Vieja (don’t miss the Museo del Ron). At the end of calle Obispo is the central zone. Il Capitolio and Gran Teatro de La Habana (one of the most capacious theaters in the world where Sarah Bernhardt, Arthur Rubinstein and An-drés Segovia have been on stage) are being re-stored, but you can see them from the terrace of the historic Hotel Inglaterra, along with a beautiful view over the city and a good cock-tail. Paseo del Prado is the most memorable boulevard – Moorish buildings, bronze lions, polychrome marble pavements and birds singing in their cages hung on the trees.

of Zapata, a wetland, bird and ani--

ish. Playa Larga, a renowned beach, although not one of the best, is near the Playa Giron, the site of the unfor-tunate Bay of Pigs invasion in 1961.Along the coast, on the road for Cienfuegos, Caleta Buena is a beauti-ful beach (admission is charged) with many snorkeling facilities. The most startling building in Cienfuegos is Pa-lacio de Valle, a Spanish-Moroccan fantasy with a bar commanding a superb view over the bay. Trinidad, protected by UNESCO, has charm-ing cobbled streets and pastel-colored colonial homes with painted wooden columns (barrotes) at the windows. This capital of the sugar and slave trades has been splendidly preserved thanks to its isolation since 1950. There are many restaurants (paladares) where you can eat and sleep. Sol Ananda, on the central Plaza Mayor, is the best both for atmosphere and food. In the evening, go to Casa de la Trova (or the more crowded Casa de ph

oto

by P

aolo

Got

ti

APRIL 2016

55

TRAVEL

NATIONAL MUSEUM OF DECORATIVE ARTS

la Musica) to dance son or salsa, drink rum and enjoy the sensual physical-ity of Cubans of every size and age when they move to music. Among the numerous musical genres, (rum-ba, mambo, danzòn, bolero, salsa etc.) son is probably the most popu-lar. It is familiar to foreigners from

Buena Vista Social Club.Another genre is trova, two voices and a guitar, born in the eastern part of the country and deriving its name from itinerant musicians, trovadores.

Moron is an unspoiled town with wonderful, honest and generous people. Use it as a base for visiting the Cayos. Reserve the city’s best

crab, in Giraldo and Katia’s Hostal Alicia. To the north is an archipela-go of 400 islands called Jardines del Rey. Once a haven for pirates and

-tiful beaches both at Cayo Coco and Cayo Guillermo. It is a natural oa-

white ibis, black hawks that feast on crabs, zunzùn (emerald-colored bee hummingbirds), herons, and dol-phins. (An area of the sea is fenced off so visitors can swim with these mammals.) Santa Clara is remem-bered as the site of the last battle of Che Guevara, who put an end here to the dictatorship of General Ba-tista. Remedios is known for a dra-matic baroque altarpiece of gilded, carved wood in its cathedral, but also for the celebration of Las Par-randas, which ends on Christmas Eve with a gathering in the Plaza. Everyone comes together to eat,

all night and admiring the creative -

to Cayo Largo, which has the coun-try’s loveliest beaches (Playa Sirena, Paraiso and Tortuga), one more beautiful than the next, with natural swimming pools and fresh coconuts to complete the picture.

MUSIC AND CINEMACULTURAL FERMENTThe capital is striking for its cultural buzz, with many international events taking place, such as the Festival In-ternacional del Nuevo cinema latinoamericano, the Festival Internacional Jazz Plaza, both in December, the Feria Inter-nacional del Libro (February) e the Art Biennial. Young artists can be seen at the Pabellón de Cuba. Nearby is the Hotel Na-cional, an art deco jewel that calls for a visit and a cocktail on the marvelous lawn facing the ocean, the Malecón espla-nade. The Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes, in the contem-porary Cuban art section, is a marvel for its stylistic variety, from the anthropomorphic in-sect gripping a wall by Rober-to Fabelo, (is it Gregor Samsa from Kafka’s Metamorpho-sis?) to the ships laden with slaves by Manuel Mendive. Performances, events and the young people involved show that in Cuba the academies are truly artistic forges, and not stiff institutions. The Na-tional Museum of Decorative Arts in Vedado is an aristo-cratic residence from the end of the 1920’s, complete with furnishings and collections, an immersion in colonial life. It was the property of the Count-ess of Revilla de Camargo, a collector of Asian art, glass and crystal art nouveau, por-celain, English furniture and

during the revolution, hiding all their precious objects in spaces behind the walls, in the hope that someday they could get them back.

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CAYO GUILLERMO, BANANA TREE AND ZUNZÙN (HUMMINGBIRD)

PALADARES AND CASAS PARTICULARESFAMILY FLAVORThanks to recently relaxed rules, Cubans have ob-tained licenses, about half a million, to open small commercial enterprises, such as paladares, res-taurants in private homes featuring local cuisine, and casas particulares, basically bed and break-fast in private houses. Many of these rooms, even if Spartan, are in picturesque colonial residences, and are often preferable to anonymous and mod-ern, international-style hotels. Both paladares and casas particulares are subjected to government scrutiny, but offer an opportunity to be in contact with Cubans and their daily life. In the cities, the most famous paladares are in historic buildings and a favorite with gastronomes. In Havana, La Guarida (which was the set of a popular Cuban movie Strawberries and Chocolate) is in a faded early 20th-century building where laundry is hung

furniture is antique, the photos from another age, the food may be better and less expensive in other places – but La Guarida’s atmosphere is unique. Another spectacular paladar is Café Laurent, a penthouse with a terrace, a view over the city and excellent cuisine. Reserve for sunset.

PASEO DEL PRADO

MORONHOSTAL ALICIA | CASA PARTICOLAR | LIBERTAD, 90 | ENTRE MARTI Y CASTILLO |TEL. 033 50 5194 FROM THE PROVINCE OF HAVANA | TEL. 0133 50 5194 FROM OUTSIDE HAVANA| FROM CELL. 0053 33 50 5194 | [email protected] | DOPPIA 25-30 EURO | DOUBLE 25-30 EUROS | DINNER OF CRABS AND SEA-FOOD 10 EUROS

REMEDIOSHOSTAL BUEN VIAJE – LESTER MERCEDO Y NATY TORNA | CASA PARTICOLAR | CALLE ANDRES DEL RIO, 20 E/ ENRIQUE MALARET Y MAXIMO GOMEZ |TEL. +53 (42) 396560 | [email protected] DOUBLE 29 EUROS BREAKFAST INCL. DINNER WITH FISH AND CRUSTACEANS 10 EURO

LA ESTANCIA - SR. NOLY Y AMARELYS|CASA PARTICOLAR | CALLE CAMILO CIENFUEGOS, 34 E/AV. GENERAL CARRILLOY JOSÈ A PENA | TEL. 0053 (42) 395582 | [email protected]

CAYO GUILLERMO GRAN CARIBE CLUB | JARDINES DEL REY | CIEGO DE AVILA |TEL. +53 (33) 301712 | JEFE.RECEPCION

@ALLEGROCAYOGUILLERMO.TUR.CU| BUNGALOW, SEA VIEW 60 EUROS PER PERSON, ALL MEALS INCLUDED

CAYO LARGOSOL CAYO LARGO MELIA | TEL. +53 (45) 248260 | WWW.SOLMELIACUBA.COM | PER PERSON, ALL MEALS INCLUDED 150 EUROS

FRUIT, CHICKEN, SEAFOODTHE ORGANIC ISLANDAny exploration of the Cuban countryside makes it evident that organic farming is the norm. Agriculture is as it once was, a matter of hoe and plow, sometimes pulled by oxen. Roads are often only one lane because the other is taken up by rice laid out to dry. Animals wander freely. Tropical fruit – pineapple, strawberries, mango, papaya – is succulent and sweet. The most typical dish is comida criolla, made with pork or chicken, fried or roasted, enlivened with bell peppers, onions, oregano and cumin, and served with the omnipresent rice and beans (moros y cristianos, black or red). Marinated suckling pig (lechos) is roasted or cooked on a spit. But the greatest attraction for foreigners is the fresh seafood: lobsters, enormous crabs, often served grilled (10-20 euros a portion). Shrimps (camarones) appear grilled, baked, steamed and boiled. A seafood dinner in casas particulares and paladares

Coppelia. In Havana it’s an institution, including the inevitable line. Best to forget about wine – it’s costly and inferior. Local beer, however, is excellent and comes in two types, Cristal, which is light, and Bucanero, with a higher degree of alcohol.

It’s rare to end a day in Cuba without having had one or more, often accompanied by the live music so popular in bars. Some locales, famous, touristy and expensive, have become known for particular drinks. The daiquiri made the name of La Floridita, supposedly an Ernest Hemingway hangout; the mojito at Bodeguita del Medio is renowned. The Cuba libre owes its name to liberation from Spanish colonialism, but there’s also the Havana Espe-cial, and the Ron Collins. Rum (ron), made from molasses, comes in various types: after 18 months it is Silver Dry (the base for cocktails), aged 3 years, carta blancait becomes carta oro, and after 7, it is called añejo and is aged in oak barrels for at least 3 years. These are rums that are consumed straight.

DINNER WITH LOBSTER AND CRAB AT NATY AND LESTER

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jefe.recepcion

allegrocayoguillermo.tur.cu

www.solmeliacuba.com

Livia Montagnoli collaborated

THE FOREST IS HER FRIEND

THE STORY

FORAGING 60

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Noris, the Forest Lady, is a master of foraging, the new trendin cooking and the culinary world. She found her pathways

in Val Rendena, in Trentino, at the beginning of this century.It is also a story of green economy that in a short time,

found its way around the world, from the USA to Australia.

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PROFESSIONALS, IN EVERY SENSE.

13-15 November 2016LINGOTTO FIERE TURIN - ITALY

www.gourmetforum.it

FOOD & BEVERAGE VINE & SPIRITS TECHNOLOGIES BAKERY PASTRY ICE CREAM COFFEE CHOCOLATE MACHINERY EQUIPMENT FURNITURE TABLEWARE INNOVATION DESIGN SERVICES PROFESSIONAL TRAINIG JOB OPPORTUNITIES E!COMMERCE WEB MARKETING

PASSION for:

Follow Gourmet on

http://www.gourmetforum.it/s-554%20

THE STORY

Her name is Eleonora Cunaccia and her friends call her Noris. But there are many who refer to her as the ‘Forest Lady’, the forests being those of the Val Rendena,

in the Dolomite mountains of Spiazzo, in Trentino. For over ten years, Noris has turned her special relationship with nature into a unique profession. Each day she renews her bond, a rapport made up of work, silence, solitude and great joy. She moves among the secrets of the moun-tain, where at the food of a walnut tree, even in winter, underneath the snow, she

that if you look around you, learning to listen to nature, you can bring home the best that the woods know how to offer. Among these treasures are rose hips, yar-row, wild fennel, mallow, linden blossoms (the serenity plant), and common nettles, a concentrate of iron and vitamins. “Nature needs time and different types of manual dexterity. It reveals itself only to those who approach with grace and respect, with-out greed. It’s enough to ask for what one needs,” she says. The search can become ritual and “You can discover the joy of nourishment.”

managed with her brother Giovanni in Spiazzo, the town where both were born.

to shift gear. Today Noris is one of Italy’s best known foragers for wild herbs, berries and mushrooms. She understands every-thing edible that her mountains offer. As an expert in foraging, the term for a phe-nomenon that began in the 1960s and that has become a culinary trend, she seeks for the dimension that lets natural resources nourish her body and soul. Noris doesn’t like to speak of trends and movements. In-stead, she reminds us that hers is a profes-sion of commitment, built up slowly. She continues to fear, with reverential re-spect, this majestic force that takes and gives. “I am very afraid of nature,” she revealed sincerely. “I don’t know every-thing, and I always have to be certain what I am bringing home. I have a great store of experiences with my territory, accumulated over time. But I wish ev-

eryone could discover how much life is in the nature that surrounds us, could learn to recognize a few herbs or a wild fruit, could become aware of even ten little remedies that our grandmothers knew well – how much satisfaction they

-covery takes on a different value.”Far from those who trumpet trends

of life that sound like warnings for the elite, Noris wants to contribute to an ethical cause that calls for everyone to work for a better future. But she does it with the simplicity that accompanies her every gesture, without proclamations or life lessons. “My work is ethical be-cause I bend my back, I labor, I earn my bread, I respect and honor nature every day. Nature knows how to be generous, but only if you know how to develop a friendship that takes into account her enormous resources without abusing them.” The point is in the difference

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http://www.gourmetforum.it/s-554%20

THE STORY

between thoughtful consumption and the untrammeled consumption that af-

nature as a pantry to carefully protect, and not as shelves to loot.”Thirteen years ago, when this all be-gan, she worried that her choice would prove to be too extreme. Today, Primi-tivizia goods (the brand name she uses to package her products - www.primi-tivizia.it) are sought after even abroad. “The United States imports almost all our production of Mugolio – or Pine

cherries to Australia.” Noris works closely with her brother Giovanni. “In our workshop, he manages the alche-my part: he cleans, processes, extracts

twenty products, ranging from essenc-

es of chives or dandelions to rose hip ketchup and the herb known as maid-enstears. Now Noris has undertaken a new proj-ect, and for the last few years she has tried to domesticate some wild moun-tainous plants. In four extreme herb gardens she grows radicchio dell’orso, or Alpine sow-thistle, and is beginning to get results. “It’s a hunter’s herb, very famous in our valleys and today protected like edelweiss. In Friuli it is a Slow Food Presidio.” If she has a se-cret, it’s this. “Become a plant yourself. Plants have no voice. Like babies, they communicate only if you know how to interpret them. So then you have to commit yourself to slow domestica-

-plains, ever going against nature.

FORAGING, FOOD AND ECOLOGYThe modern-day trend that involves important young chefs around the world and various pro-fessional gatherers, uses the term foraging to mean the collecting of wild, spontaneous herbs and fruit in the woods for use in the kitchen. In this sense, it is a kind of re-turn to hunter-gatherer cultures in an ancestral era before true agricul-tural models were insti-tuted. But herb gatherers in Italy and elsewhere made up a hard core of food providers for towns and cities until the 1960s, when the post-war boom gave birth to industrial

supermarkets. In ecol-ogy and ethology, forag-ing means the search for wild food resources and above all, the study of animals and their capaci-ty to feed themselves and reproduce in nature. For-aging theory is a branch of behavioral ecology that studies the manner

food in response to the environment in which they live and the ways they maximize their en-ergy and minimize the time spent. The contem-porary foraging trend, instead, is essentially based on the old science of studying the use of ed-ible wild plants in times of famine or other emer-genciesWWW.WOOD-ING.ORG |FORAGE.BERKELEY.EDU |THEURBANEFORAGER.BLOGSPOT.IT

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www.primitivizia.it

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-ing.org

forage.berkeley.edu

blogspot.it

Winter Foraging BY NORBERT NIEDERKOFLER INGREDIENTS FOR 4 SERVINGS VEGETABLES

1 YELLOW TURNIP, 1 BEET, 1 CELERY ROOT, 1 CHIOGGIA BEET, 8 COLORED BABY CARROTS, 12 YELLOW NUTSEDGE

AMARANTH WAFERS 200 G AMARANTH, 1 LITER WATER, 1 LITER VEGETABLE OIL

MASCARPONE (450 ML FRESH CREAM, 20 G POWDERED MILK, 100 G FRESH WHOLE MILK, 5 G CITRIC ACID)

PUMPKIN SEED OIL

CARROT GREENS

Slice the vegetables into thin rounds, using a mandoline. Place the vegetables in sepa-rate vacuum bags, with their juices. Cook in steam oven, 8 minutes at 90°C (195°F). Chill in iced water.

Prepare the amaranth wafers. Cover the amaranth with cold water, bring to a boil and cook until liquid is completely evapo-rated. Spread on a silicone baking mat and dry in a 70°C oven (160°F) for one hour. Then fry at 170°C (340°F).

Mascarpone: heat cream and milk to 70°C (160°F). Add powders. Leave to strain through gauze in refrigerator for 48 hours.

THE CHEFS

NORBERT NIEDERKOFLER | ST. HUBERTUS DELL’HOTEL ROSA ALPINA | SAN CASSIANO IN BADIA (BZ) | WWW.ROSALPINA.IT | WWW.N-N.IT

PIERGIORGIO PARINI | OSTERIA DEL POVERO DIAVOLO |TORRIANA (RN) | WWW.RISTORANTE

POVERODIAVOLO.COM

ENRICO MAZZARONI | IL TIGLIO| LOC. ISOLA DI SAN BIAGIO | MONTEMONACO (AP) | WWW.ENRICODELTIGLIO.IT

ALAN BERGO | THE SALT CELLAR | SAINT PAUL | MINNESOTA (USA) |FORAGERCHEF.COM | WWW.SALTCELLARSAINTPAUL.COM

TOMMY BANKS | BLACK SWAN | OLDSTEAD | YORKSHIRE (GB) | TOMMYBANKS.WORDPRESS.COM | MUNCHIES.VICE.COM

RENE REDZEPI | NOMA | COPENAGHEN (DANIMARCA) | NOMA.DK

DANIEL PATTERSON | 373, BROADWAY | SAN FRANCISCO (USA) | COIRESTAURANT.COM | DPGRP.CO

DAVE CHANG | MOMOFUKU | MOMOFUKU SSÄM BAR | NEW YORK (USA) | MOMOFUKU.COM

BEN SHEWRY | ATTICA | MELBOURNE | AUSTRALIA | WWW.ATTICA.COM.AU

JOCELYN MYERS-ADAMS | TABLEBAY HOTEL | CITTÀ DEL CAPO | SUDAFRICA | THETABLEBAYHOTEL-CAPETOWN.H-REZ.COM

DAVID EVERITT-MATTHIAS | LE CHAMPIGNON SAUVAGE | CHELTENHAM (GB) | WWW.LECHAMPIGNONSAUVAGE.CO.UK Arrange on dish, imaginatively.

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www.rosalpina.it

n-n.it

www.ristorante

poverodiavolo.com

www.enricodeltiglio.it

foragerchef.com

www.saltcellarsaintpaul.com

tommybanks.wordpress.com

munchies.vice.com

noma.dk

coirestaurant.com

dpgrp.co

momofuku.com

www.attica.com.au

h-rez.com

www.lechampignonsauvage.co.uk

An essential bookfor all who love Italian wine

More than 60 experts spent monthsdoing blind tastings

in every region of Italy

2400 producers

22000 wines

421 Tre Bicchieri

80 Tre Bicchieri verdi

www.gamberorosso.it

http://www.gamberorosso.it/it/store/libri-e-guide/italian-wines-2016-detail

Curds of herbs, herring milk, eggBY PIERGIORGIO PARINI FOR THE CURDS 100 G BORAGE

100 G NETTLES

AROMATIC HERBS

WILD HERBS

Cook the wild herbs, borage and nettles in salt-ed water. Cool and drain. Puree in a blender

puree over low heat until it begins to coagulate like ricotta. Remove from heat and transfer to a mould lined with paper towel. Cool at room temperature, taste for salt and sprinkle the top with fresh chopped herbs.

FOR THE SMOKED HERRING MILK 1 SMOKED HERRING

150 G MILK

Leave the herring in the cold milk for two

FOR THE EGG 2 EGG YOLKS

100 G CREAM

LEMON ZEST AND MACE

PARMIGIANO REGGIANO

SALT, PEPPER, SOYA LECITHIN

Boil the cream with the mace, pour the mix-ture onto the egg yolks and mix with Par-migiano. Replace on low heat and cook like

and keep warm.

TO COMPLETE THE DISH MARJORAM

SORREL

FLOWERS

DILL

CHERVIL

and with an immersion blender, emulsify the surface to obtain a foam like that on a cappuc-cino. (A little soya lecithin previously added to the liquid can help.)In a deep plate, arrange the browned curds, dampen the surface with a little creamy egg mixture, arrange the aromatic herbs on top and complete with the whipped herring milk.

THE STORY

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ICE Gambero Rosso P_int 230x285mm Formaggi.indd 1 18/03/16 15:22

https://italianmade.com/

RECIPES FROM GREAT CHEFS

by Maurizio Bertera

Perbellini

The challenge coming from Giancarlo Perbellini in his

Verona Casa: cook only with a small number of meticulously

chosen ingredients, those that the season and the farmers’

markets offer. Each dish, then, has its logic and its coherence

BEGIN WITHTHE MARKET AND

THE SEASONS

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THE MATHEMATICS OF INGREDIENTSHis restaurant, Casa Perbellini, is a true home, a few steps from the splendid Romanesque basilica of San Zeno, facing one of Verona’s great piazzas. A small door opens into an entry with a counter and a table. Im-mediately to the side is a room with about thirty places, divided in two. The larger one is part of the kitchen, totally open, without even a separat-ing window between. The smaller one is more private, yet communicates with the rest of the space. “Casa Perbellini emerged from my desire to change my life and to bring the cook, and I under-line that word, to center stage. There are no mysteries here,” Giancarlo said. The small brigade in the front of the house, with Barbara Manoni in charge, and the larger one in the kitchen, led by sous chef Giacomo Sacchetto, work in sync, without the slightest tension. The result is satisfying: the two dishes of “a Mezzogiorno” (At Noon) are per-fect for a gourmet’s lunch break at 50 euros. The sequence of plates in “As-saggi” (Tastes) for 135 euros delights the palate with Perbellini classics alongside

sceglie…prova” (choose and try) has the client select two out of four possible in-gredients, and the kitchen then prepares two dishes (110 euros) that feature those ingredients. It seems like a Master Chef test, but the idea is simply pure math. “We put together seasonality, good shop-ping in the morning since we don’t have a cold storage zone or a freezer, the abil-ity to surprise our guests and the concept of home.” Another interesting meal costs

offered between 19 and 20.45, allows clients to sample the maestro Veronese’s classic dishes. The restaurant’s wine cel-lar, given Perbellini’s exquisite taste, is up to the kitchen’s standards, and is both in-telligent and deep, with 250 labels (“That we like, obviously,” the chef underlines).

CASA PERBELLINI |

P.ZZA SAN ZENO, 16 | VERONA |

TEL. 045 8780860 |

WWW.CASAPERBELLINI.COM


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SUSHI OF PASTA AND RED SHRIMP WITH NORI ALGAE PESTO

INGREDIENTS FOR 4 SERVINGS

40 MEZZE MANICHE (LARGE, SHORT PASTA)

20 RED SHRIMP

1 BURRATA, CUT INTO 24 PIECES

200 G FISH BROTH

5 PARSLEY STEMS

5 BASIL STEMS

1 CLOVE GARLIC

CHILI PEPPER, LEMON, FRIED ALGAE, EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL, SALT

PREPARATION For the nori algae pesto: work all the ingredients with a mortar and pestle and keep cool.For the wasabi mayonnaise: combine the two ingredients until they are well-blended.Clean the shrimp, removing the shell but keeping the tail on. Slice in half length-wise and season with salt, olive oil and lemon.

parsley.

Assembly: stuff each mezza manica with half a shrimp. Arrange

6 per portion), drops of wasabi mayonnaise and algae pesto. De-corate with fried algae.

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FOR THE NORI ALGAE PESTO: 20 G ALGAE NORI

40 G PINE NUTS

10 G VINEGAR

50 G GARLIC-SCENTED OLIVE OIL

120 G EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL

FOR THE WASABI MAYONNAISE:

100 G MAYONNAISE

20 G WASABI PASTE

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RAVIOLI WITH MILK, LEEKS, BLACK TRUFFLE AND SEA URCHINSINGREDIENTS FOR 6 SERVINGS

2 LEEKS

SEA URCHINS

GRATED BLACK TRUFFLES

BUTTER

EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL

SALT

FOR THE MILK FILLING 1LITER WHOLE MILK

½ LITER HEAVY CREAM

3 G CITRIC ACID

FOR THE PASTA 400 G MANITOBA FLOUR

100 G SEMOLINA

200 G WHOLE EGGS

50 G YOLKS

PREPARATION

cream to a boil, add citric acid and simmer together for 15 minutes until it curdles. Re-move from heat and cool for 20 minutes.

taste for salt.Prepare the pasta working all ingredients to-gether until smooth. Put aside to rest, then roll out very thin sheets. Shape into ravioli

Chop leeks and sauté in a pan with a drop of oil, a teaspoon of butter and a dash of salt. Cut the urchins in half with scissors and ex-tract the pulp with a spoon.Boil the ravioli in abundant salt water. Drain and dress with butter.Assembly: place sautéed leeks in the center of each plate, add buttered ravioli. On each raviolo place 2 teaspoons of sea urchin and

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RICETTE DEI GRANDI CUOCHI


TWO SADDLES OF BABY LAMB

100 G FRESH MORELS

1 BOX FRESH PEA SPROUTS

LAMB STOCK

NEUTRAL VEAL DEMI-GLACE

BUTTER

EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL

FLEUR DE SEL

SALT AND PEPPER

FOR THE PEA PURÉE 700 G FRESH SHELLED PEAS


SALT

FOR THE EUCALYPTUS OIL

10 FRESH EUCALYPTUS LEAVES


LAMB SADDLE, PURÉED PEAS, MORELS AND EUCALYPTUS AROMA

the lamb, but keep meat pink. Leave to rest.

olive oil and butter.On a serving dish, arrange the warm pureed peas, a few whole peas (seasoned with olive oil, salt and pepper) and 4 or 5 pieces of fresh morels. Cut the lamb into pieces (2 or 3 ribs together) and the cutlets separately (one for each set of ribs, as in the photograph). Ar-

Decorate with fresh pea sprouts.

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PREPARATION

Clean the lamb saddles, leaving the ribs

trimmed, held together by the bone. Re-serve the discards and prepare a classic lamb stock. Simmer the peas (keep some aside) for a minute in salt water. Strain, purée in a blender with 150 g of their own cooking water, a pinch of salt and 20 g of extra-vir-gin olive oil until desired density is reached.Simmer the reserved whole peas in salted water, cool and remove skins. Keep aside for garnish.For the eucalyptus oil: Place fresh eucalyptus leaves and extra-virgin olive oil together in a vacuum bag, and leave in a bain-marie infu-

Prepare sauce blending the lamb stock with an equal amount of demi-glace.


CHOCOLATE LEAVES

FOR THE FAKE HAZELNUT TORRONE

75 G ITALIAN MERINGUES

100 G HAZELNUT PASTE

50 G WHIPPED CREAM (NO SUGAR)

20 G CARAMELIZED HAZELNUTS

FOR THE HAZELNUT CRISP

50 G WAFER STICKS

25 G HAZELNUT POWDER

20 G TOASTED HAZELNUTS

30 G CARAMELIZED HAZELNUTS

50 G 41% MILK CHOCOLATE

10 G VEGETABLE OIL

12 G MALDON-TYPE SALT

FOR THE COGNAC GELATIN

100 G COGNAC

.5 G AGAR AGAR

CHOCOLATE SAUCE

40 G WATER

55 G HEAVY CREAM

45 G SUGAR

15 G POWDERED COCOA

SALTED CHOCOLATE, HAZELNUTS AND COGNAC

PREPARATION For the fake hazelnut torrone, mix Italian meringues with hazelnut paste, add whipped cream, then caramelized hazelnuts coarsely chopped. Spread the mixture on silpat to a

freezer).For the hazelnut crisp, melt the milk choco-late. Combine in a bowl crumbled wafer sticks, hazelnut powder, Maldon salt and toasted hazelnuts, chopped coarsely. Com-bine the caramelized hazelnuts with melted chocolate and add vegetable oil. Add the dry ingredients to the creamy mixture and stir well. Spread unevenly on silpat and freeze in

For the cognac gelatin: heat the cognac in a pan, but do not evaporate. Add agar agar, bring to boil, then pour liquid into silicone molds and cool in refrigerator. For the chocolate sauce, boil together water, heavy cream, sugar and cocoa powder, stir-ring constantly. Strain and cool.Assembly: place three little cognac jellies on bottom of plate. On top, place some irregu-lar pieces of fake torrone, pieces of salted chocolate mixture and complete with drops of chocolate sauce. Garnish with chocolate leaves.

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WEHLENER SONNENUHR AUSLESE 2013 MARKUS MOLITOR BERNKASTEL-WEHLEN | MOSELLA (GERMANIA) | MARKUSMOLITOR.COM

Markus Molitor is one of the masters or Riesling, the iconic wine of the Moselle. This wonderfully elegant Auslese goes well with our shrimp antipasto. Besides typical aromatic qualities and fresh-ness, it has perfect equilibrium despite its fundamental acidity.

BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2010 POGGIO DI SOTTO MONTALCINO (SI) | WWW.POGGIODISOTTO.COM

An elegant meat main course that deserves a red that is both elegant and powerful. This Brunello vintage deservedly won a Tre Bicchieri award in Vini d’Italia 2016. Ethereal and fragrant, it is supported by a complex aromatic array.

MOSCATO D’ASTI PIASA SAN MAURIZIO 2014 FORTETO DELLA LUJA LOAZZOLO (AT) | WWW.FORTETODELLALUJA.IT

For a very Piedmontese dish, this Forteto della Luja is a winning choice. A late-harvest Moscato, it is rich and creamy on the pal-ate. Sumptuous and sweet, it is also supported by a fragrant acidic vein. An echo of vanilla and white chocolate lends itself to an

SOAVE CL. LA ROCCA 2013 LEONILDO PIEROPAN

SOAVE (VR) | WWW.PIEROPAN.IT

For the pasta course, we play a home game. This 2013 soave from Pieropan won Due Bicchieri in the Vini d’Italia 2016 guide. Among the labels of this Veneto maison, it is the fruitiest, but maintains the same tension and length as its more important brother, Calvarino, a Tre Bicchieri winner.

LAMB SADDLE, PURÉED PEAS, MORELS AND EUCALYPTUS AROMA

SUSHI OF PASTA AND RED SHRIMP WITH NORI ALGAE PESTO

RAVIOLI WITH MILK, LEEKS, BLACK TRUFFLE AND SEA URCHINS

SALTED CHOCOLATE, HAZELNUTS AND COGNAC

PAIRINGS

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markusmolitor.com

www.poggiodisotto.com

www.fortetodellaluja.it

www.pieropan.it

2016WORLDTOUR

trebicchieri Vini d’Italia

2016

INFO: www.gamberorosso.it/international [email protected]

2016

APRIL

04 SÃO PAULO Top Italian Wines Roadshow

16 DUBAI Top Italian Wines Roadshow

Special Edition

23-24 PALM SPRINGS Gambero Rosso & Vino Veritas

Special edition

MAY

16 SINGAPORE Top Italian Wines Roadshow

18 BANGKOK Top Italian Wines Roadshow

20 MANILA Top Italian Wines Roadshow

25 HONG KONG Gambero Rosso Top Italian Wines

& Spirits Special Edition for VinExpo

JUNE

02-05 MOSCOW Top Italian Food & Beverage Experience

03 MOSCOW Vini d'Italia

06 TORONTO trebicchieri

06-07 TORONTO Top Italian Food & Beverage Experience

10 VANCOUVER trebicchieri

SETTEMBRE

27 WARSAW Vini d’Italia

WARSAW Top Italian Food & Beverage Experience

OCTOBER

25 ZURICH Vini d’Italia

05-07 DUBAI Top Italian Food & Beverage Experience

08 ABU DHABI Top Italian Food & Beverage Experience

NOVEMBER

02 TOKYO trebicchieri

TOKYO Top Italian Food & Beverage Experience

04 BEIJING trebicchieri

07 SHANGHAI trebicchieri

09 HONG KONG trebicchieri

18 MOSCOW trebicchieri

2017

JANUARY

10 STOCKHOLM trebicchieri

12 COPENHAGEN trebicchieri

12-13 COPENHAGEN Top Italian Food & Beverage Experience

30 MUNICH trebicchieri

FEBRUARY

07 CHICAGO trebicchieri

09 NEW YORK trebicchieri

11-13 LOS ANGELES Top Italian Food & Beverage Experience

13 LOS ANGELES trebicchieri

15 SAN FRANCISCO trebicchieri

MARCH

2 LONDON trebicchieri

2-3 LONDON Top Italian Food & Beverage Experience

18 DÜSSELDORF trebicchieri

http://www.gamberorosso.it/international

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APRIL 2016

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GAMBERO ROSSO www.gamberorosso.it

SENIOR EDITOR Lorenzo Ruggeri

PHOTO EDITOR Rossella Fantina

LAYOUT Chiara Buosi, Maria Victoria Santiago

CONTRIBUTORS Stefania Annese, Gianluca Atzeni, Maurizio Bertera,Antonella Cecconi, Livia Montagnoli, Gianni Fabrizio,William Pregentelli, Marco Sabellico, Paolo De Cristoforo

PHOTOGRAPHS AND DRAWINGSChiara Buosi, Ennevi/Verona Fiere, Marco De Felicis, Alberto Biasetti, Giuseppe Ippolito, Francesco Vignali,Aromi Creativi, Antonella Cecconi, Merlo,Fototeca Trentino Sviluppo Spa, Paolo Gotti

GR USA CORP PUBLISHER & PRESIDENT Paolo Cuccia

Advertising GAMBERO ROSSO S.P.A. via Ottavio Gasparri 13/17, 00152 Roma tel +39 06 551121 - +39 06 55112206fax +39 06 55112260

Advertising director Paola Persi

GAMBERO ROSSO is a Registered Trademark used under license by GR USA CORP Copyright by GAMBERO ROSSO S.P.A. 2016.All rights reserved. Nothing may be reprinted in whole or in part without written permission from the publisher. GR USA CORP is not responsible for loss, damage, or any other injury as to unsolicited manuscripts, unsolicited artwork or any other unsolicited materials.April 2016

Gambero Rosso and

are registered trademarks belonging to Gambero Rosso S.p.A.

www.gamberorosso.it

@ [email protected]

Gambero Rosso USA

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Gambero Rosso Wine Travel Food - April 2016

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Transcript of Gambero Rosso Wine Travel Food - April 2016