OVERVIEW OF GLOBAL FASHION INDUSTRY

Study of Global Fashion Industry with emphasis on Indian Fashion Industry.

Submitted By: Faculty Guide:

Tanya Malhotra Mrs.Garima

(35,mfm1)

FASHION

Fashion is a form of speech. It not only embraces clothing, but also

accessories, jewelry, hairstyles, beauty and body art. What we wear and how

and when we wear it, provides others with a shorthand to subtly read the

surface of a social situation. For example, their are several different

stereotypes of fashion expression. Among them: Fashion victim: buys on trend, not brand loyal Conservative: does not buy the look of the season, but of seasons past Customizers: buy variations within a strict uniform (Muslim headscarves,

black suits with new cuts) Accessorizers: buy smaller items as accents of expression or aspirational

belonging

Fashion is associated with social change and it is itself a tool for change. The

history of creative/design aspects of the fashion business are made up of

people and personalities. In learning about their lives and accomplishments,

the development of the industry automatically unfolds. In order to

understand the dynamics of the industry in each country, it’s always

important to bear in mind the following: Social & economical changes taking place within a period Their impact on consumer demand The reaction of the industrial system

Within a designer’s creativity and research, there is underlying re -

interpretation of the  past

Industry Sectors

Examples of sectors include: Couture Ready-to-Wear Designer Diffusion Bridge Mass

Industry Challenges

The Apparel Industry is growing at a very high rate but still there are some barriers, which are hindering the growth of this industry. Some of them are:

Though the demand for garments is increasing day by day but the production rate has still not been able to match with the ever rising demand. More production facilities are needed to meet the demand. 

Most of the raw material needed for apparel manufacturing is available in the developing or under developed countries and these countries do not have enough resources and manpower to explore them. These countries also do not have finance to set up factories for clothing and garment production. 

Globalization has helped the trade in many ways but due to globalization the competition has increased and so it is not very easy for the firms to cope up with so much competition, as they have to meet the deadlines and also maintain quality. 

The importers of developed economies are facing very stiff competition as countries like China are producing good quality products in low prices due to availability of very cheap labour. 

Some trade laws still are very much in favor of developed countries and they need to be reviewed, to facilitate imports from the developing countries.

As apparel industry is fashion driven, and fashion keeps changing, the firms have to cope with the changing apparel industry trends and still complete orders in time. Thus they usually have to work under pressure.

Future ProspectsThe global apparel manufacturing industry is expected to grow more than ever in times to come. According to an estimate, the global apparel industry will reach a value of US $ 1,781.7 billion by the end of 2010. The apparel manufacturers are now adopting new techniques to increase their trade. New business models and competitive strategies are used to enhance profits and growth. The consumer is more aware and more demanding with the development of media like television and Internet. They have more choices in quality, price and design. This is the reason why apparel chains all over the world are focussing more on improving the quality of the product and offering in varied range of fashion designs. Apparel manufacturers are developing methods to keep up with the pace

of change like offering on wholesale prices to survive in the global competition.

History of Global Fashion

The Global Fashion Industry is divided into certain eras like: Ancient fashions - In general,they are fashions from the Ancient Greek

and Roman periods. Medieval Fashions - With the emergence of Christian influences during

the Medieval era, clothing styles tended to be more modest than the preceding Roman era.

Renaissance Fashions : Because the Renaissance era encompasses approximately 150 years of history, its fashions changed dramatically from beginning to end. At the dawn of the Renaissance in 1450, clothing styles were influenced by Medieval and Gothic designs, as well as the Italian Renaissance movement in art. After the turn of the 15th century, Renaissance fashions began to follow German styles.

Elizabethan Fashions: During the Elizabethan period, fashion served as a mode for self-expression for all social classes.

Baroque Fashions : The "Cavalier" style of dress became popular during Baroque period

Georgian Fashions: The richly decorated gowns worn by wealthy Georgian women were often adorned with an "eschelle stomacher" (a fancy corset designed to be worn in public and adorned with bows of decreasing size) above the waistline and an embroidered and trimmed petticoat below. Ladies' skirts were supported by wide hoops made of cane or rattan, and sometimes laid over quilted under-petticoats.

Regency Fashions: Regardless of the wearer's social class, fashions of the Regency era were lighter and simpler than those of past decades.

Victorian Fashions: During the Victorian era, the precise cut, material and color of a garment revealed the social class of the wearer.

Edwardian Fashions: At the advent of the Edwardian era, the shape of women's fashions transitioned from the popular "hourglass" figure to dresses designed with an "S" curve. The new style allowed women to cast away the confining corsets of the Victorian age and embrace the new "health corsets" that supported the spine and abdomen.

Fashion Timeline

1858Englishman Charles Worth establishes first haute couture fashion house in Paris

1906Paul Poiret establishes fashion house; creates harem pants; first couturier to launch perfume, "Rosina"

1913

Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel opens boutique in Deauville, France; revolutionizes and democratizes women's fashion with tailored suits, chain-belted jerseys, quilted handbags; the most copied fashion designer in history1914-1918

World War I prompts women to work in factories, offices; women wear pants; military cut influences clothes

1920sCirca 1920

Women participate in sports, prompting new styles, including the "flapper"

Early 20s

Madeleine Vionnet creates flowing, feminine clothes, including the chiffon handkerchief dress; creates cowl neck, halter top; sets trends

in1930s

Mid 20sPopularity of rayon causes decline in use of cotton

1926Knee-length hemlines mark new high

Late 20sElsa Schiaparelli opens Paris boutique; pioneers use of zippers, shoulder pads, unusual buttons; favors bright colors, including "shocking pink"

Tennis star Rene Lacoste, known as "le Crocodile," manufactures a versatile new tennis shirt. It features an embroidered crocodile, believed to be the first instance of a designer logo to appear on a garment.

1940-1945World War II forces many Paris couture houses to close

1947

Christian Dior reestablishes Paris as fashion center; revives haute couture; replaces wartime austerity with the glamour of the "New Look" with tight waist, stiff petticoats, billowing skirts

1950Shoes have pointed toes, stiletto heels

1954Cristóbal Balenciaga introduces "semi-fit" dresses with soft, round shoulders; is the classic designer of the 1950s

1960sEarly 1960s

Pierre Cardin becomes first designer to license his name for various products; is first to create ready-to-wear lines

London boutique owner Mary Quant champions the youth movement; introduces mini-skirt, hot pants; launches Twiggy as supermodel; becomes 1960s most influential 1960s designer

1962Yves St. Laurent opens fashion house; often uses ethnic inspirations; remains most classic modern designer, heir to Chanel, Balenciaga

Mid 1960sInfluenced by rock music, "Mod" scene makes London major fashion center with fun, revolutionary clothes: bell bottoms, psychedelic prints, wild colors, dresses made of vinyl, paper, cellophane, metal, covered in mirrors; go-go boots; ruffled shirts for men; Nehru jackets; fur vests

Rudi Gernreich creates "radical" fashion - topless swimsuit, see-through blouse, "no bra" look

1968Calvin Klein begins producing elegant, simple clothes, favoring neural earth tones and luxurious fabrics

Ralph Lauren creates men's wear line; expands into women's wear; favors natural fabrics; designs feature western or country motifs Known as Halston, Roy Halston Frowick dominates 1970s with pantsuits, sweater sets, form-fitting dresses, knit wear

1974Giorgio Armani creates men's wear line; popularizes Italian tailoring

1979Claude Montana founds couture house; specializes in leather

Early 1980s

Japanese "school" of designers, including Issey Miyake, Kenzo, Rei Kawakubo, Hanae Mori, enjoy major couture successDonna Karan launches line of versatile, casual knits; favors black"Anything goes" emerges as fashion credo

Late 1990Alexander McQueen emerges as daring new designer; features cozy, romantic designs, dresses looking like quilt blankets, rabbit-skin dresses; favors highly theatrical fashion shows, models parade in rings of fire, get doused with paint or water, skate on real ice

Indian Fashion Industry

India has a rich and varied textile heritage, where each region of India has its own unique native costume and traditional attire. While traditional clothes are still worn in most of rural India, urban India is changing rapidly, with international fashion trends reflected by the young and glamorous, in the cosmopolitan metros of India. Fashion in India is a vibrant scene, a nascent industry and a colorful and glamorous world where designers and models start new trends every day.

While previously a master weaver was recognized for his skill, today a fashion designer is celebrated for his or her creativity. Young urban Indians can choose from the best of East and West as Indian fashion designers are inspired by both Indian and western styles. This fusion of fashion can be seen on the streets and ramps of the fashionable cities of India. Fashion in India is also beginning to make its mark on the international scene as accessories such as bindis (red dots worn on the forehead),

mehendi (designs made by applying henna to the palms of the hands and other parts of the body) and bangles, have gained international popularity, after being worn by fashion icons like the pop singers Madonna and Gwen Stephani.

Fashion in India has become a growing industry with international events such as the India Fashion Week and annual shows by fashion designers in the major cities of India. The victories of a number of Indian beauty queens in International events such as the Miss World and Miss Universe contests have also made Indian models recognized worldwide. Fashion designers such as Ritu Kumar, Ritu Beri, Rohit Bal, Rina Dhaka, Muzaffar Ali, Satya Paul, Abraham and Thakore, Tarun Tahiliani, JJ Valaya and Manish Malhotra are some of the well known fashion designers in India.

Fashion in India covers a whole range of clothing from ornate clothes designed for wedding ceremonies to prêt lines, sports wear and casual wear. Traditional Indian techniques of embroidery such as chikhan, crewel and zardosi, and traditional weaves and fabrics have been used by Indian designers to create Indo-western clothing in a fusion of the best of East and West.

Traditional costumes in India vary widely depending on the climate and natural fibres grown in a region. In the cold northern state of Jammu and Kashmir, people wear a thick loose shirt called a phiran to keep them warm. In the tropical warmth of south India men wear a sarong like garment called the mundu, while women drape 5 meters of cloth around their bodies in the graceful folds of the saree. Sarees are woven in silk, cotton and artificial fibres. Kanjivaram, Mysore, Paithani, Pochampalli, Jamdani, Balucheri, Benarasi, Sambalpuri, Bandhini are some varieties of beautiful sarees from different regions of India. In the dry regions of Rajasthan and Gujarat men wrap and twist a length of cloth in the form of a dhoti around their lower limbs and a shirt-like kurta above. Colorful turbans complete the picture. In the northeastern regions the tribal communities such as Khasis, Nagas, Mizos, Manipuris and Arunachalis wear colorful woven sarong-like clothing and woven shawls that represent the identity of each tribal group. In urban India the salwar kameez and the churidar kameez, are commonly work by women and the saree is worn on formal occasions. Men wear kurtas and pajamas, or a sherwani for formal wear. Western wear such as shirts and trousers are commonly worn by men across India. Jeans, T-shirts, capris, bermudas and various kinds of casual clothing are worn by the young and the young at heart, who are the trendsetters of fashion in India.

Fashion in India is continuously evolving as new designers from leading institutes such as the National Institutes of Fashion Technology continue to redefine the meaning of Fashion in India.

The Indian fashion industry has experienced significant expansion in the last decade mainly driven by the growth of domestic designers, some of whom have gained international recognition in recent years

Between 2008 and 2012, the Indian fashion industry is expected to grow 178%, and reach USD 189 MM by 2012

The growth of the Indian fashion industry is highlighted by the increase in the number of large fashion events (from 1 in 2004 to 5 in 2008)

Industry growth in India is mainly driven by the growing exposure of domestic designers at international forums, but growth is also supported by other factors such as the launch of focused business education courses for emerging designers and the establishment of an industry association.

Indian fashion industry (18-19 th century)

After mughal rulers ,provincial courts became powerful and some declared themselves independent .Some of the famous provincial courts were Avadh ,Murshidabad,and Punjab.while there were many others in the Rajputana region.During this period an attempt was made to capture the

local identity of each provincial court in various ways,especially in the paintings of the era.

The Avadh provincial court evolved a self conscious style .The cuts,falls/drapes and appearance of the garment vary from that of the mughal court Costumes like the choga,angrakha,jama, paijama,choli,farshi paijama,odhani, and sari of the later Mughal period worn by royalty and nobility,are housed in important museums and collections across the world:the City Palace,Jaipur,the Mehrangarh Fort,Jodhpur;the Victoria and Albert Museum,London;the Mumtaz Mahal Museum and National Museum,Delhi ,to name just a few.

By the early 18th century during the reigns of Farrukhsiyar(1713-19) and Muhammad Shah (1719-48),the jama and the angarkha ,which had already increased in length in the 17th century came right down to the feet.An almost similar style was prevelant in the Avadh court.

The jama became long and trailing almost touching the feet.It was also high waisted with lots of gathers.Full sleeved chapkan,usually in jamdani work,with a short neck and tight fitted waist with little flare below ,was also popular in Avadh court.The paijama became wider and was worn by men and women .

The jama,choga,angarakha,tight paijama,turban and chaddar/shawl were Used more by men in the Punjab Court in the 18th and 19th centuries.The churidar paijama,short kurta,jama and odhani were used by women during this period.

The baghalbandi,mirjai and sadri were the other popular upper garments used by men in North India.The kurta was a new addition .It was modified version of the old nima or nimcha.The focus was on elegant embroidery ,patterning and the judicious selection of the material .Likewise,the topi and the dupalli were simply made of very light material ,but elegantly finished and sometimes worn at a rakish angle.

The angarakha ,as an outer garment continued to be popular in the Rajasthan courts even in the 19th century.The angarkha yielded in part to a chapkan ,a modification of a balabar ,and became very popular among officials and servants in the circles connected with the officers of the court or the East India Company.In the late

18th and early 19th centuries,before the coat became popular,the achkan and sherwani were popular in provincial courts.The sherwani was the preffered attire in the Hyderabadi court,while the achkan remained the choice of the Avadh court.

Under European influence,the sherwani and the achkan were used as upper garments by men.These tight-fitting costumes of varying length had a front opening with buttons,Chinese collars ,drooping shoulders,full sleeves with cuffs ,and two side pockets.The paijama,loose or tight fitting,were commonly used by men and women.During this period ,apart from the farshi paijama,women of North India wore heavily embroidered,ot tinsel –printed.A variety of dress materials was imported and soon became popular among elite groups.

The Mughal Period(16 th -19 th centuries)

This period of Indian history is well recorded in the literature ,architecture, paintings,costumes and jewellery of the time.Costumes worn by Babur and his courtiers resembled those of his country of origin,while the common man during Babur’s reign continued to wear indigeneous costumes ,as Babur himself mentioned in the Baburnama.The common man wore a short wrap-around dhoti,while the upper portion was left bare.Babur also refers to the names of a few costumes,Turkish or Mongol perhaps,some of which are listed:

Nimcha(short tunic);jama(garment with lining);yaktahi jama(garment without linings);charqab(gold-embroidered garment);postin or coat(lined with sheepskin);jiba or surtout;chafan(long coat);ans tahband(girdle or belt).

Costumes from Hamayun’s reign were almost the same like those from Babur’s-qaba,jama,pirahan,jilucha,jiba,and kasaba ,to name a few.Chogas,coats,caps and cloaks were in fashion during Akbar’s reign.

Costumes worn by Babur and his son Hamayun were largely influenced the Turkish or Mongol style,which gradually acquired a more Indian look during the reign of their successor,Akbar.

Akbar coined some Hindi words for common garments:

Sarbgati for jama(coat);yar-pirahan for izar(drawers);tanzeb for nimtana(jacket);patgat for fauta;for burqa(veil) chitragupita. Etc

During Jahangir’s reign thec jama became longer ,almost upto the knees,with a straight ,circular hem.During ShahJahan’s reign jama reached below the knees with the elegant,long,and floral –patterned patka.The natural charm and flow of attires from Jahangir’s and Shah Jahan’s reigns had dimmed by Aurangzeb’s

reign.Costumes became more static and stiff by then.By the 18yh century ,the time of the later Mughals and provincial courts ,the jama reached upto the ankles.

The usual attire of the mughal courtier was the full-sleeved ,long jama covering one third the leg,with a circular hemline;the half sleeved,front open shirt over a golden-colured garment,a long hanging patka ,the paijama and a turban band.The zari or brocade dress had gained popularity by this time.

On emperor’s birthday ,the khilat tailored in the fashion of the emporer’s costume was offered to courtiers according to their ranks,and courtiers were obliged to wear the khilat to the court thereafter.

Gold jewellery-necklaces and bajubands(armlets),to sarpechs(head ornaments) and girdles studded with gems –held great sway over all mughal rulers.Shoes and slippers with zardozi embroidery were also used by the mughals.

Indian Fashion Industry in 20 th century

the key moments in fashion, triggered by various socioeconomic movements during the twentieth century. For what we know of the history of fashion until the end of the 19th century,it was mostly a fascinating footnote to the history of art. Much has changed and evolved in the history of fashion in the 1900's. It's a stirring,exotic trip with detours aplenty-from the Fallper girls of the '20s in their Channel dresses to the sheer elegance of Maharani Gayatri Devi's pastel chiffon sarees, to the innocent candy coloured can can dresses of the '50s Americana to the dark, stylish paired down dressing of the '90.

Indian costumes like the silk saris, brightly mirrored cholis, colorful lehangas and the traditional salwar-kameez have fascinated many a traveller over the centuries. Although sari is only one of the many traditional garments worn by women, yet it has become the national dress of Indian women. The tightly fitted, short blouse worn under a sari is a choli, which evolved as a form of clothing in 10th century AD. Apart from the choli, women in Rajasthan wear a form of pleated skirt known as the ghagra or lehanga. Though the majority of Indian women wear traditional costumes, the men in India can be found in more conventional western clothing. Shirts and trousers are worn by men

from all the regions of India. However, men in villages wear traditional attires like kurtas, lungis, dhotis and pyjamas. Indian dressing styles are marked by many variations, both religious and regional and one is likely to witness a plethora of colors, textures and styles. in garments worn by the Indians. Apart from this, the rich tradition of Indian embroidery has long been made use of by fashion designers from other countries. India prides in works like Zardozi, Dabka, brocades, Pashmina, Jamawar and bandhni. It seems paradoxical that fashion is considered a young concept in India since the first fashion show was held only in 1958. Jeannie Naoroji wins the credit for initiating the first wave of fashion shows in India and for giving a degree of professionalism to such shows.

When the century dawned, fashion was an exclusive enterprise,the pursuit of the wealth. The lower tiers of the society settled for garments that were more often than not entirely family hand-made-downs or stitched at home.With time, however,networks of neighbourhood tailors began to evolve into a retail history and the boom followed by boutique selling. Today, garments are laser cut by computers and sourced from all over the world and can easily be bought sitting in the comfort of one's home via the internet. During the '20s, one of the greatest influences on dress code was the movement towards equal status for women. Hence, a new breed of business-like women emerged and made corresponding demands on their dress. India, the fashion scenario was in confusion as it was a turbulent period of conflicting ideologies, when the consciousness of an Indian national identity was beginning to find political expression and the struggle for Indian independence was getting momentum.

Thus the fashion trends within high society, read the loyalty, was strongly influenced by the British with the result that western clothes became a status symbol.

The '30s heralded the idea of socialism,communism and fascism and women's fashion became more and more feminine in keeping with conservative ideas. However this period also saw the emergence of the vamp and the culture of cabaret. The dresses became more body hugging and the colours deep and dark in tune with such themes.

The establishment of the Indian cinema also proved to be the strongest influence on the fashion in the decade.Due to the western influence, the use of angarkhas, choghas and jamas diminished considerably by this time,although the ceremonial pagri,safa and topi were widespread as ever.

They had been replaced by the chapkan, achkan and sherwani, which are still standard items of formal dress for Indian men today. The women even though were accepting change,continued to wear their peshwaz, kurtas,ghaghras and odhnis at religious and ceremonial festivities,sometimes using imported fabrics but using mostly traditional handwoven fabrics.

In the '40s,it was Christian Dior who turned fashion upside down with a new shape, with the bosom pushed up and out, a pinched waist and hips emphasised with short fluted jackets. It was also a decade marked by the second World War and the ensuing independence of India with the result that women's clothing was simple and functional.

The '50s saw the dawn of art colleges and schools, which became places of rebel, and hence in silhouette, narrow waist and balloon skirts with bouncing patterns were in vogue. Also due to the

freedom struggle and the espousal of khadi by Gandhiji,khadi garments became a rage giving a boost to the sagging handloom industry.

The '60s one of the most shock-filled decades of the century, saw sweeping fashion and lifestyle changes that reflected the mercurial passions of the times. This decade was full of defiance and celebration in arts and music and cinema,marked by a liberation from constraints and new types of materials such as plastic film and coated polyester fabric got popular. Tight kurtas and churidars and high coiffers competed with the mini-skirts abroad and at the same time,designers understood the need of the moment to launch cheaper, ready-to-wear lines.

One of the most "revisited" and "retro" periods in the fashion, the '70s is often called the 'me decade'. "It saw the beginning of "anything goes" culture with the result that fashion became another form of self-expression and bold colours with flower prints were adapted in tunics,with shirts and bell-bottoms. As drug culture became a mass phenomenon,psychedelic colours were garish,the shoes were tall and hazardous and silhouettes were extreme and the dressing of the '50s was definitely out. The 70s also saw the export of traditional material with the result that export surplus was sold within the country itself and hence, international fashion came to India much before the MTV culture. Synthetics became popular and the disco culture had

a profound influence on fashion and the clothes became as flashy as the mirrored ball that spins over the dancers.

In the '80s the big money ruled.It was the era of self consciousness and American designers like Calvin Klein became household names. In India too,silhouettes became more masculine and the salwar kameez was made with shoulder pads .Power dressing and corporate look became dominant dress code. The influence of cable TV became more prominent and the teenage market boomed with youngsters going in for the trendy look, which in turn influenced the elders.

The '90s the last decade of the millenium, was one of the extremes. The excess of the early decade gave way to the drastic pairing down and stripping away in the hands of German designers like Helmut Lang and Jil Sander. Perhaps the biggest fashion news of the '90s has been the ascendancy of the younger generation of designers into the mainstream. The decade also looked for independent women with comforts, poise and

confidence as key features. But the decade also saw the revival of ethnicity with films too becoming more discreet and launching a "back to ethnic" look.While on the one hand the new drive for information technology popularized the corporate look,an ethno-cultural revival made people again go back to the traditional forms of art and crafts. As it is Indian fashion is extremely alive and whatever the decade or the century,it is here to stay. For not only it is comfortable, practical and

aesthetically beautiful but has changed with time with the result that it has, in the past century,and will in the coming one, remain contemporary.

Indian Fashion Industry in 21 th century

The Indian fashion industry has experienced significant expansion in the last decade mainly driven by the growth of domestic designers, some of whom have gained international recognition in recent years The Indian fashion industry has gained international acclaim and recognition at serveral global forums. This has also helped attract a large number of international clients to the country

Ritu Beri, an internationally renowned Indian designer, has presented her work in various international fashion weeks, including the those held in the US, London, Paris, Mumbai, and Bangalore Ritu Beri is the only Indian Fashion designer to head French fashion brand, Scherrer. She imagine a world of color, where creativity runs on the engine of passion, shape, textures and touch in a pattern leads to the creation of fashion. Her inspiration comes from what makes her generation tick. Ritu Beri, the countries most versatile and dynamic designer is creating a revolution in Indian fashion. She does not restrict herself to fashion alone, but is also devoted to causes-both fashionable and otherwise, this has given her the mantle, as the leader of Indian fashion world.

Ritu Kumar

Ritu Kumar has been designing the wardrobes comprising

swimwear, eveningwear , traditional  Indian wear, casual wear, formal

evening gowns; of the three winning Miss Indias, for their participation

in International Beauty Pageants (Miss Universe, Miss World and Miss Asia

Pacific respectively ). Ritu’s outfits have been patronized by style icons such

as late Princess Diana and Jemima Khan.

Kumar co-authored a book “Costumes and Textiles of Royal India” published

by Christies in 1999, which chronicles the history of textiles and art design in

India.

Kumar has opened a new flagship store in North America in The Mall at Oak

Tree in Edison, New Jersey.

Manish Malhotra

He is considered to be India's leading and most successful fashion designer

Manish Malhotra has designed for many leading actresses in Bollywood. He is known for his different style and his ability to envision a 'look' for the character.

There are many other Indian Designers like Manish Arora,Vikram Phadnis,Aki Narula,Neeta Lulla,Rocky S,Rohit Bal….. who are doing very well in Indian and Global Fashion Industry.