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[Type text] Northeast India: March 2011

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Northeast India 14-29 March 2011

Guide: Josh Engel All photos taken on this tour by

the guide.

Bar-winged Wren-Babbler at

left.

INTRODUCTION

Northeast India has been gaining quickly in popularity as a birding destination in recent years.

With elevations ranging from 100m along the Brahmaputra River to high Himalayan peaks, this

region harbors a diversity of birds unrivaled anywhere else in Asia. Our tour covers elevations

ranging from the lowlands of Nameri National Park to Sela Pass at 4200m, though the real focal

point of the tour is the area in between, the remote forests of Eaglenest Wildlife Sanctuary. The

tour extension to Kaziranga National Park not only adds over 100 additional species of birds,

including a wide variety of waterbirds, raptors, and grassland rarities, but gives the opportunity

to visit Asia’s best mammal-viewing park, with its abundance of elephants, rhinoceros, wild

buffalo, and deer. (See separate trip report for the Kaziranga extension.)

We recorded over 400 species between the main tour and the extension, plus an excellent

diversity of mammals. Bird highlights included White-winged Wood Duck, Pied Falconet,

Oriental Hobby eating its avian breakfast, Ibisbill, Long-billed Plover, Black-tailed Crake, six

owls seen, Slender-billed and Coral-billed Scimitar-Babbler, Blackish-breasted Babbler, Wing-

barred and Rufous-breasted Wren-Babblers, Black-headed Shrike-Babbler, Fire-tailed Myzornis,

Green Cochoa, spectacular views of Beautiful Nuthatch, male Blyth’s Tragopan, and a Rufous-

breasted Partridge feeding calmly on the track in front of our vehicle. We were also lucky

enough to see a wild elephant cooling itself in the Jia Bhareli River and to scope a Himalayan

palm civet on a night drive in Eaglenest.

TOUR REPORT

Straight from the airport in Guwahati we were on our way to our first birding destination,

Nameri National Park. The drive took a little longer than expected as we had to detour around a

district-wide protest; we arrived at the eco-camp to the calls of Brown Hawk-Owl. The next

morning we were up early to start birding in earnest. We picked up a few birds around camp,

like Common Hill Myna and Red-breasted Parakeet, but we didn’t linger as we had a date with

White-winged Duck to keep. As soon as we crossed the Jia Bhareli River into the park proper,

new birds started coming at a rapid pace. Among them were Ruddy Shelducks and Pallas’ Fish-



Eagle along the river’s edge and Greater Flameback, Lesser Yellownape, and Golden-fronted

Leafbird in the woodlands. Carefully checking secluded ponds for the park’s most alluring avian

denizen, the rare White-winged Duck, we flushed a pair from a secluded spot and had great

views of their distinctive wing pattern as they flew on to another pond. A young Lesser Adjutant

in the same pond was more cooperative. Checking another pond to try for sitting views of the

duck, we came across a stunning Pied Falconet which gave us leisurely scope views. Further

pond checks yielded one more fleeting glimpse of the duck, as well as a wild boar.

The other main attraction at Nameri is a leisurely boat ride down the river. Besides being great

for birds, it’s simply a very pleasant trip down a beautiful tributary of the Brahmaputra. Our

main target here was the iconic Ibisbill, and after getting only very distant looks at the site where

they had been seen regularly, it was a great relief to get point-blank looks further downriver.

Small Pratincole was abundant, a few River Terns showed nicely, and we had great views of

both Indian and Great Thick-knees. Sand Lark was elusive¸ but we managed nice views of a bird

flying past. A wild elephant enjoying the cool river water was a real bonus.

Pied Falconet (left)—a striking, rare, and diminutive falcon—was a highlight of our visit to

Nameri. Small Pratincoles (right) were abundant on our raft trip down the Jia Bhareli

River.

We also spent a productive early morning and an afternoon birding around the eco-camp. Owls

were definite highlights, including good views of Asian Barred Owlet, Brown Hawk-Owl, and

Spotted Owlet. The famous Oriental Hobby pair was conspicuous throughout the day; on two

mornings we watched them eat their breakfast—one morning an Olive-backed Pipit, the other an

Asian Pied Starling. A Gray-headed Lapwing in the fields behind the lodge was a nice surprise.

We departed early on our final morning to head into the mountains. We did little birding along

the busy road to Dirang (though Long-tailed Sibia and Black Eagle put in appearances), but

made it in time to slip into the more secluded Sangti Valley for the afternoon. We quickly

picked up three new redstarts, including Blue-fronted. We played hide-and-seek with three

calling Black-tailed Crakes, but unfortunately they hid better than we sought. Likewise, the

Long-billed Plovers that reside nearby were nowhere to be found, but great eye-level views of a

Himalayan Buzzard was nice consolation. The time for the crake and the plover would come in

a few days time.



Our first full day in Dirang was spent going to--and quickly retreating from—the tour’s highest

elevation, the 4200m Sela Pass. Unfortunately, the weather scuttled our plans; the wind, fog, and

snow drove us to lower elevations. We spent the remainder of the day working our way down

from the pass, trying to bird on the lee side of ridges to avoid the day’s strong winds. Given the

difficult conditions, the birding was actually pretty good. We picked up some excellent birds,

including a mixed flock of (Himalayan) White-browed and (Himalayan) Beautiful Rosefinches,

some very cooperative Black-faced Laughingthrushes and Streak-chested Scimitar-Babblers,

White-winged Grosbeak, and Ludlow’s Fulvetta. A group of four Tibetan Blackbirds was

somewhat of a surprise, although there had been recent sightings in the area. Lower down the

mountain the sun was actually shining (though that didn’t stop snow from falling occasionally).

There we picked up a number of new birds, including Mrs. Gould’s Sunbird, Black-throated Tit,

and Rufous-breasted Accentor, but a calling Slender-billed Scimitar-Babbler wouldn’t show.

Re-entering the Dirang Valley, a stop along the river produced Brown Dipper and Hodgson’s

Redstart. Our day’s last stop in a grove of trees in the valley held our first White-collared

Blackbird, Russet Sparrow, and Gray-headed Canary-Flycatcher.

Rafting is a good way to get close looks at waterbirds along the Jia Bhareli River. Besides

our main target of Ibisbill, we saw Great Thick-Knee (left) and Ruddy Shelduck (right).

For our second full day in Dirang, we ascended the nearby Mandala Road, reaching an altitude of

3500m. Of course, reaching those heights took some time as we made several productive stops

along the way. Our first one, in scrub and agriculture, yielded great looks at Bhutan

Laughingthrush, Black-throated (Hill) Prinia, Red-flanked (Himalayan) Bluetail, Brownish-

flanked Bush-Warbler, and Chestnut-bellied Rock-Thrush. Our next stop yielded two new

Turdus, both of which posed in the scope, Gray-collared Blackbird and Black-throated Thrush.

A mixed flock was also in the area, and among the many birds that responded strongly to a

Collared Owlet tape was a brilliant male Fire-capped Tit that gave us great views. Further short

stops yielded our first Gold-naped Finch, Rusty-flanked and Hodgson’s (Eurasian) Treecreepers,

and an extremely showy Gray-flanked Bush-Warbler. We soon reached the village of Mandala,

where our high-altitude birding began with some brilliant White-throated Redstarts on the edge

of the settlement. We were soon racking up a number of other great birds, including Red-headed

Bullfinch, Gold-billed Magpie, Spotted Nutcracker, and typical mixed flock birds like Ashy-



throated Leaf-Warbler and Rufous-vented Yuhina. Just before taking a tea break Lakpa called in

a pair of Slender-billed Scimitar-Babblers, showing off why they are among my favorite

Himalayan birds as they used their remarkable bill to probe for insects right out in the open.

Unfortunately Spotted Laughingthrush singing in the same area remained unseen far down the

valley. On our return to Mandala, a pair of Bar-winged Wren- Babblers showed off why they are

one of the few wren-babblers suitably described as exquisite, sitting in the open at close range

while we admired (and photographed) their stunning (and often unseen) plumage.

After lunch we slowly started working our way back down the road. It was soon clear that there

were many more good birds to be had in this area. A Darjeeling Woodpecker posed for the

scope, and just as I was scoping two cooperative Beautiful Sibias, a female Crimson-browed

Finch hopped up to join them in the field of view. A small party of Golden-breasted Fulvettas

passed through some dense roadside rhododendrons, giving us enough glimpses to piece them

together. We finally made it back to the hotel, tired and satiated.

The wintery scene we encountered at Sela Pass (left). Right: Two of a flock of about twenty

Tibetan Serins.

For our final day in the Dirang area, we decided to forego the dust and drive, wind and cold of

Sela Pass for another day in the peace and mixed flocks of the Mandala Road. We started the

day on the lower parts of the road, where riverside scrub delivered a couple of birds that I

generally think of as high altitude denizens, here on their wintering quarters—first a Eurasian

Wren, then a stunning male Golden Bush-Robin. Resident birds, of course, were out in force as

well, including cracking looks at Pygmy Wren-Babbler, our first good looks at Chestnut-

crowned Laughingthrush, and a couple of hyperactive Yellow-bellied Fantail. We even picked

up some quality longer-distance migrants in the form of a flock of 20 or more Black-throated and

Red-throated Thrushes, including males of both species in the same scope view as they hopped

around the road verge. Unfortunately, a Black-headed Shrike-Babbler singing its head off inside

the top of a large, densely leafed oak was wholly unresponsive to playback.

It was a sunny, beautiful day, but the wind was blustery at times. Indeed, the wind picked up and

the birds quieted down as we reached the top. We did add Rufous-winged Fulvetta, followed by

further great looks at the beautiful and range-restricted Ludlow’s Fulvetta. Just before lunch we



saw a confusing redstart that was likely an immature male of the typically more westerly ranging

phoenicuroides subspecies of Black Redstart. The drive back down started out slowly, but when

we finally made it out of the wind bird activity picked up considerably. One area had a showy

pair of the warbler-like Pygmy Blue Flycatcher. Striated Bulbuls grabbed our attention from the

vehicle, and after scoping those we scoped Great Barbet, Scarlet Minivet, Gray-winged

Blackbird, Crimson-browed Finch, and Fire-breasted Flowerpecker quick succession practically

without moving!

Persistence sometimes does indeed pay. Before departing for Eaglenest, we decided to try the

Sangti Valley one more time for its key birds: Black-tailed Crake and Long-billed Plover.

Arriving to the crake spot, we soon were hearing several individuals calling from below. We

scanned and scanned, but saw nothing. Our attention was diverted by other new species for the

trip, Long-tailed Shrike and a migrant Yellow-browed Warbler, when Lakpa excitedly called us

over. There they were—feeding leisurely on the edge of a paddy, giving brilliant scope views in

the early morning light. It was then on to the nearby river, where more carefully scanning

revealed many common birds, but not our main quarry. Distracted, we wandered off after pipits

and others when once again the call came from Lakpa. Rushing over, the plover had disappeared

before we arrived, not to be found again. Dejectedly walking back to the car, Lakpa came

through again, spotting a Long-billed Plover standing completely motionless, blending in

perfectly with the surrounding rocks. We had great views, and some well-placed rocks provided

the perfect cover for a close approach for photos.

Long-billed Plover’s only known breeding site in India is in the Sangti Valley, where we

saw this one (left). Slender-billed Scimitar-Babbler (right) is one of my favorite birds of the

Himalayas.

It was finally time to set off for Eaglenest, where we would be spending the second half of the

tour scouring the beautiful forests for eastern Himalayan specialties and rare forest dwellers.

After lunch in Tenga, we forked onto the dirt track that would take us into and through the

wildlife sanctuary. Our birding started as we neared Lama Camp with a Rufous-bellied Eagle

soaring over valley. We then got out and walked much of the rest of the way to camp, adding

Gray-cheeked and Chestnut-crowned Warblers and Yellow-throated Fulvetta. Just beyond camp,

we called in a Rufous-throated Wren-Babbler which we were able to piece together from several



quick views. We finished off our birding by spotlighting Gray Nightjar flying around the camp

(but always landing somewhere out of view!).

We began our first day in Eaglenest hunting—unsuccessfully as it would turn out—for the

recently described Bugun Liocichla, a bird only known from the area around Lama Camp.

Undeterred, we found lots of other new birds to keep us entertained, starting with two juvenile

Red Crossbills feeding on the ground in the middle of camp. A small party of Gray-headed

Bullfinches posed for a minute at the top of a tree and we enjoyed watching a beautiful Rufous-

bellied Woodpecker rechecking its previously drilled sap holes, with a Beautiful Sibia in tow

picking up any leftovers. A group of Rusty-fronted Barwings got our blood pumping, as the

liocichla sometimes accompanies them, but today it was not to be. It was a good morning for

raptors, with a Mountain Hawk-Eagle cooperatively landing on an exposed perch and a

Himalayan Griffon passing overhead while we enjoyed a tea break.

After lunch we headed upslope from camp, immediately coming across an excellent mixed flock

that contained both Green and Black-eared Shrike-Babblers. Another stop for a flock yielded a

surprise in the form of an unusually showy Chestnut-headed Tesia. The pass itself was windy

and fogged-in, so we returned downslope, screeching to a halt for an adorable Collared Owlet

perched in a roadside tree, completely unbothered by our presence.

We again began the day with an unsuccessful liocichla hunt, but we did find a different rarity in

the form of a stunning male Black-headed Shrike-Babbler, that after much coaxing sat right out

in the open singing for us. We also added Yellow-bellied Flowerpecker and a brilliant male

Scarlet Finch. After breakfast, we turned our attention upslope and spent the rest of the day

wending our way to Sunderview. We stopped at the pass, which was windy and fog-bound, but

managed to call up Spotted Laughingthrush, that sat out nicely singing, showing off its intricate

plumage. A small troop of Streak-throated Barwings also showed nicely. Flocks were abundant

after the pass, especially flocks of yuhinas and sunbirds thoroughly enjoying a particular tree in

bloom with small pink flowers. One of these flocks contained a fog-bound Fire-tailed Myzornis,

seen just well enough to make out its green plumage. Another contained three fire-backed male

Fire-tailed Sunbirds. A close flock of Fork-tailed (Pacific) Swifts fed under the fog layer.

What followed was three full days of birding the incredibly bird-rich forest south of Eaglenest

Pass. The lowest reaches of the road have been closed off, making a few species unavailable, but

a week could easily be spent birding the area that remains open. We spent one day mostly

between Sunderview and Bomphu, another between Bomphu and Sesni, and the final day

working our way up from Sesni.



A pair of fulvettas: Ludlow’s (Brown-throated) is restricted to the eastern

Himalayas; Rufous-winged is more widespread.

The first of these days, at higher elevations, was generally slow going as we fought foggy

conditions. There was, however, lots of excitement early on when a Blyth’s Tragopan sang from

very close to the road. We went in and spent nearly an hour trying to see it, listening to it sing

and scratch in the leaf litter. At one point, I saw just its head sticking up above fallen bamboo.

Finally it came out and Gary had the full bird in view for two glorious seconds before the bird

became aware of his presence and shot off down the improbably steep slope. Back on the main

track, we finally got visuals on Bay Woodpecker, while Broad-billed Warbler showed nicely. A

flock of Brown Bullfinches was typically sedentary feeding on buds in a tall tree and we found

our first Gray-chinned Minivets, a pair with a mixed flock that we found while exploring an

elephant trail off the main track. The day’s other main highlight came on our drive back to camp

when the driver screeched to a halt, pointing to something in front of the vehicle. Three

partridges! Two ran off immediately, but the third, a gorgeous Rufous-throated Partridge,

continued calmly feeding just meters in front of us. It was an extraordinary end to the day.

There are not enough superlatives to describe the following day, spent on the lower accessible

parts of the road. Without doubt, it was one of my best days of birding in India. The day

certainly started out right, when just about our first bird was Blackish-breasted Babbler! Soon

after, we picked up a few additional goodies, including an adorable White-browed Piculet and

scope views of Long-tailed Sibia. We followed with another mega—incredible views of the

bizarre Long-billed Wren-Babbler. Commotion in the understory brought our attention to a large

flock of Rusty-fronted Barwings and Silver-eared Mesia, but the real prize was the half-dozen or

so Coral-billed Scimitar-Babblers that showed off their striking head pattern and eponymous bill

unusually well. We stopped for lunch at Sesni, picking up Sapphire Flycatcher and Mountain

Bulbul while we awaited the delivery of our hot picnic lunch. It was a well-deserved rest, but

there was business to attend to, and we carried on down the road. Lakpa called out Black-headed

Shrike-Babbler, but by the time I set up the scope it had flown. Still, several birds were perched

in the top of the tree. Beautiful Nuthatch! We had been trying for it all morning, and there it

was when we least expected it. Unfortunately, the bird was rather backlit, so we thought to walk

ahead and try for a better view. We took a short detour to get views of some very responsive

Slaty-bellied Tesias. Rounding the next bend, we first heard the nuthatch, then it was perfect

scope views of one singing, the other feeding just below, in all their blue-streaked glory.



It was finally time to start the drive back up from 1200m to camp at 2500m. But we weren’t

ready to give up, and almost immediately we stopped for a flock. It was well-timed—four Long-

tailed Broadbills were feeding in a fruiting tree at eye level for unusually good views of this

incredibly brightly-plumaged passerine. Another stop for Green Magpie and Slaty-backed

Forktail. Another for eye-level Mountain Imperial Pigeon. And a final one when a Chestnut-

breasted Partridge flew off the track!

After the previous very long and satisfying day, we got a little later start this morning. It turned

out to make for an interesting comparison—after yesterday’s non-stop action¸ today seemed

oddly quiet. Livening things up was a typically rowdy gang of White-crested Laughingthrushes.

Just after talking to another birding group lower down the road, their leader came running after

us—Green Cochoa sitting up singing! We hurried back and everyone enjoyed scope views of

this uncommon species uncharacteristically sitting atop a bare tree, singing its heart out. The

Beautiful Nuthatches from yesterday were again in the exact same spot, but this time they had

company—one of our day’s main targets, a pair of the bizarre and beautiful Sultan Tit, one of

whom was carrying moss in its bill presumably heading towards its nest. We tried for Red-

headed Trogon on the way up, finding a bird that very impressively managed to respond

aggressively to playback but stay just out of view. This is more that we can say for Ward’s

Trogon—similar attempts yielded no response at all.

Two common residents of higher altitude forests in the Himalayas: Rufous-gorgeted

Flycatcher (left) and Rufous-fronted Tit (right).

Motivated by reports of porcupine on another group’s night drive the previous evening, we set

out on our own pre-dinner night drive. It was a quiet, still, slightly foggy evening. Eventually,

an owl flew across the road, then immediately back the other direction. It looked like a

Himalayan Wood-Owl. Getting out, our suspicion was confirmed, with two calling back in forth

from the valley below, but fog blocked any attempts to spotlight them. We turned around at that

point. On the way back we stopped for mammal eyeshine. A very obliging animal was sitting

on a branch, its luxurious tail held over its back, calmly staring at us. A little research back at

camp revealed it to be a Himalayan palm civet, but for the moment we just enjoyed watching the

beautiful creature on a beautiful night in the mountains.



Before heading back to Lama Camp for our final night in Eaglenest, we made one last go below

Sunderview. An attempt for the Blyth’s Tragopan yielded only a very distant response thirty

minutes later. We also got no response from Ward’s Trogon in some of its usual haunts. More

obliging was a hyper flock of the wonderfully charismatic Black-throated Parrotbills (now split

as Orange-eared Parrotbill) amidst a large understory flock containing Rufous-winged and

Yellow-throated Fulvettas, Streak-breasted Scimitar-Babbler, and Rufous-capped and Golden

Babblers. We also enjoyed watching a Crested Goshawk displaying over the forest.

After packing up the vehicle, we made our way back over the pass to Lama Camp. Before

reaching the pass, we got brief views of another Fire-tailed Myzornis for the half of the group

that hadn’t seen it previously, though it disappeared rather quickly. We devoted the afternoon to

another liocichla search. Once again, no liocichla.

We had one final morning to devote to our liocichla quest. Despite three birding groups scouring

the area, again not a peep! We did see our first Cutias, a fantastic flock that we found three times

as we worked up and down the road, accompanied by, among others, Crimson-breasted

Woodpecker and White-browed Shrike-Babbler. Ward’s Trogon was calling far below Lama

Camp, but wouldn’t come any closer. Just as we were about to leave the area, a small flock of

barwings got our hopes up (yet again!), but we had to settle for great views of a nearby group of

Greater Rufous-headed Parrotbills (now split as White-breasted Parrotbill), before departing for

our overnight in Bhalutpong. We stopped for a walk along a forested river as we dropped in

elevation, improving on our earlier brief views of Slaty-backed Forktail, before arriving at our

hotel and its lack of much-anticipated hot water.

Finally, it was time for the grand finale at Kaziranga. See the Kaziranga trip report for details.

TRIP LIST

Taxonomy follows the latest update of The Clements Checklist of Birds of the World (2007),

available here. Alternate names, mostly from Rasmussen and Anderton (2005; Birds of South

Asia: The Ripley Guide) are in parentheses. Conservation status follows Birdlife International:

CR=Critically Endangered, EN=Endangered, VU=Vulnerable, NT=Near-threatened. H=Heard

only.

Lesser Whistling-Duck Dendrocygna javanica

Bar-headed Goose Anser indicus

Good views of a pair during our rafting trip at Nameri.

Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferruginea

White-winged Duck (EN) Cairina scutulata

A pair flushed from an area of the pond that we unfortunately couldn’t see; we

nonetheless had nice flight views of their striking wing pattern.

Green-winged Teal Anas crecca

Common Merganser Mergus merganser

Hill Partridge (H) Arborophila torqueola

Chestnut-breasted Partridge (VU) Arborophila mandellii

An extremely difficult species to see, we flushed one off the track in Eaglenest.

Rufous-throated Partridge Arborophila rufogularis



Another tough one to see, this one was outrageously cooperative, feeding calmly in

front of the vehicle in the evening on the track in Eaglenest.

Blyth's Tragopan (VU) Tragopan blythii

A stunning male that we called in to close range was seen by just half the group. An

incredibly shy bird.

Red Junglefowl Gallus gallus

Gray Peacock-Pheasant (H) Polyplectron bicalcaratum

Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus

Asian Openbill Anastomus oscitans

Black Stork Ciconia nigra

Lesser Adjutant (VU) Leptoptilos javanicus

Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo

Little Cormorant Phalacrocorax niger

Little Egret Egretta garzetta

Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis

Indian Pond-Heron Ardeola grayii

Striated Heron Butorides striata

Black-shouldered Kite Elanus caeruleus

Black Kite Milvus migrans

Pallas's Fish-Eagle (VU) Haliaeetus leucoryphus

Nesting along the Jia Bhareli River in Nameri, seen during our rafting trip.

Himalayan Griffon Gyps himalayensis

One seen flying over a ridge in Eaglenest.

Crested Serpent-Eagle Spilornis cheela

Crested Goshawk Accipiter trivirgatus

Besra Accipiter virgatus

Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus

Common (Himalayan) Buzzard Buteo (burmanicus) buteo

Black Eagle Ictinaetus malayensis

Rufous-bellied Eagle Lophotriorchis kienerii

Mountain Hawk-Eagle Nisaetus nipalensis

Pied Falconet Microhierax melanoleucos

A definite highlight of the tour was great views this diminutive raptor just after

seeing White-winged Duck in Nameri.

Eurasian Kestrel Falco tinnunculus

Oriental Hobby Falco severus

We frequently saw the resident pair sitting in their favorite tree at Nameri Eco-camp.

The first morning I watched it eat a pipit (probably Olive-backed), the next morning

we watched it eat an Asian Pied Starling.

Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus

One seen streaking across the Jia Bhareli River while we looked for Ibisbill.

White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus

Black-tailed Crake Amaurornis bicolor

A beautiful pair was scoped in the Sangti Valley on our second attempt at this rare



rallid.

Eurasian (Indian) Thick-knee Burhinus (indicus) oedicnemus

Heard at night at Nameri Eco-camp and seen roosting along the Jia Bhareli River on

our rafting trip. Also called Indian Stone-Curlew.

Great Thick-knee Esacus recurvirostris

Also seen while rafting on the Jia Bhareli River. One was seen in flight being

mobbed by Small Pratincole.

River Lapwing Vanellus duvaucelii

Gray-headed Lapwing Vanellus cinereus

One was seen in the fields behind Nameri Eco-camp.

Red-wattled Lapwing Vanellus indicus

Long-billed Plover Charadrius placidus

Our local guide Lakpa really showed off his skills spotting this rare plover sitting

completely motionless in a large expanse of rocks exactly the same color as the bird

at the very last second before we were leaving the area for good. To top it off, there

was a conveniently placed pile of rocks in front of the bird that allowed me to sneak

up on it for photos.

Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius

Ibisbill Ibidorhyncha struthersii

Our main target on the rafting trip, after distant scope views we got very close views

as we went through some small rapids. We had great views, but photography was

difficult!

Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos

Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus

Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia

Temminck's Stint Calidris temminckii

Jack Snipe Lymnocryptes minimus

We were surprised to flush one in a field near Nameri Eco-camp.

Small Pratincole Glareola lactea

Dozens, if not hundreds, seen on our rafting trip on the Jia Bhareli River.

River Tern Sterna aurantia

Rock Pigeon Columba livia

Oriental Turtle-Dove Streptopelia orientalis

Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis

Barred Cuckoo-Dove Macropygia unchall

Yellow-footed Pigeon Treron phoenicopterus

Pin-tailed Pigeon Treron apicauda

Green Imperial-Pigeon Ducula aenea

Mountain Imperial-Pigeon Ducula badia

Red-breasted Parakeet Psittacula alexandri

Large Hawk-Cuckoo Hierococcyx sparverioides

Plaintive Cuckoo Cacomantis merulinus

Asian Koel Eudynamys scolopaceus

Green-billed Malkoha Phaenicophaeus tristis

Greater Coucal Centropus sinensis



Brown Fish-Owl Ketupa zeylonensis

One was seen sitting on a branch over a forested pond in Nameri.

Collared Owlet Glaucidium brodiei

Fantastic views of one on an open branch next to the road in Eaglenest.

Asian Barred Owlet Glaucidium cuculoides

Many good looks in and around Nameri.

Spotted Owlet Athene brama

One seen very well in the fields behind Nameri Eco-camp.

Himalayan Tawny Owl Strix aluco

Seen flying across the track in front of the vehicle on our night drive in Eaglenest.

We then got out of the car and heard two countersinging, a wonderful sound on a

very dark night.

Brown Hawk-Owl Ninox scutulata

Heard frequently and seen a couple of times around Nameri Eco-camp.

Gray Nightjar Caprimulgus indicus

Large-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus macrurus

One flushed a couple of times during the day along the edge of the Jia Bhareli River

while we searched for White-winged Duck.

Himalayan Swiftlet Aerodramus brevirostris

Fork-tailed Swift Apus pacificus

House Swift Apus nipalensis

Asian Palm-Swift Cypsiurus balasiensis

Red-headed Trogon (H) Harpactes erythrocephalus

Heard at extremely close range, yet entirely out of view in Eaglenest. No matter how

creative we were with playback, it just wouldn’t come out.

Ward's Trogon (NT) (H) Harpactes wardi

Very elusive this year, with just a single distant bird heard near Lama Camp.

White-throated Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis

Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis

Chestnut-headed Bee-eater Merops leschenaulti

Indian Roller Coracias benghalensis

Eurasian Hoopoe Upupa epops

Great Hornbill (NT) (H) Buceros bicornis

One was heard above our tents at Nameri Eco-camp. Fortuantely, we saw one on

the extension in Kaziranga.

Rufous-necked Hornbill (VU) Aceros nipalensis

Some very nice looks at this local bird in Eaglenest.

Wreathed Hornbill Aceros undulatus

Great Barbet Megalaima virens

Lineated Barbet (H) Megalaima lineata

Golden-throated Barbet Megalaima franklinii

Blue-throated Barbet Megalaima asiatica

Coppersmith Barbet Megalaima haemacephala

Gray-capped Woodpecker Dendrocopos canicapillus



Rufous-bellied Woodpecker Dendrocopos hyperythrus

Crimson-breasted Woodpecker Dendrocopos cathpharius

Darjeeling Woodpecker Dendrocopos darjellensis

Lesser Yellownape Picus chlorolophus

Greater Yellownape Picus flavinucha

Greater Flameback Chrysocolaptes lucidus

Bay Woodpecker Blythipicus pyrrhotis

Long-tailed Broadbill Psarisomus dalhousiae

Incredible, eye-level looks at about four birds with a mixed flock in the lower

reaches of Eaglenest.

Common Iora Aegithina tiphia

Large Cuckoo-shrike Coracina macei

Black-winged Cuckoo-shrike Coracina melaschistos

Long-tailed Minivet Pericrocotus ethologus

Scarlet Minivet Pericrocotus flammeus

Gray-chinned Minivet Pericrocotus solaris

Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike Hemipus picatus

Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schach

Gray-backed Shrike Lanius tephronotus

Black-hooded Oriole Oriolus xanthornus

Maroon Oriole Oriolus traillii

Black Drongo Dicrurus macrocercus

Ashy Drongo Dicrurus leucophaeus

Bronzed Drongo Dicrurus aeneus

Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus remifer

Hair-crested (Spangled) Drongo Dicrurus hottentottus

Greater Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus paradiseus

Yellow-bellied Fantail Rhipidura hypoxantha

White-throated Fantail Rhipidura albicollis

Black-naped Monarch Hypothymis azurea

Spotted Nutcracker Nucifraga caryocatactes

Eurasian Jay Garrulus glandarius

Gold-billed Magpie Urocissa flavirostris

Green Magpie Cissa chinensis

Rufous Treepie Dendrocitta vagabunda

House Crow Corvus splendens

Large-billed Crow Corvus macrorhynchos

Red-billed Chough Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax

Sand Lark Calendrella raytal

Plain Martin Riparia paludicola

Nepal House-Martin Delichon nipalense

Gray-headed Canary-Flycatcher Culicicapa ceylonensis

Coal Tit Periparus ater



Rufous-vented Tit Periparus rubidiventris

Great Tit Parus major

Green-backed Tit Parus monticolus

Yellow-cheeked Tit Parus spilonotus

Yellow-browed Tit Sylviparus modestus

Sultan Tit Melanochlora sultanea

Awesome looks at a pair of this remarkable, huge tit keeping company with

Beautiful Nuthatch near Sessi Camp in Eaglenest.

Fire-capped Tit Cephalopyrus flammiceps

A beautiful male responded very strongly to our Collared Owlet tape on the Mandala

Road.

Chestnut-headed Tesia Tesia castaneocoronata

Very common in Eaglenest, we saw this stunning little warbler several times.

Slaty-bellied Tesia Tesia olivea

Great views of a small group of these skulking warblers on the lower slopes of

Eaglenest.

Gray-bellied Tesia (H) Tesia cyaniventer

Brownish-flanked Bush-Warbler Cettia fortipes

Yellowish-bellied Bush-Warbler Cettia acanthizoides

A very responsive bird was seen near Sela Pass once we got below the snow, fog,

and wind.

Gray-sided Bush-Warbler Cettia brunnifrons

Black-faced Warbler Abroscopus schisticeps

Broad-billed Warbler Tickellia hodgsoni

Mountain Tailorbird Phyllergates cucullatus

Black-throated Tit Aegithalos concinnus

Black-browed (Rufous-fronted) Tit Aegithalos iouschistos

White-tailed Nuthatch Sitta himalayensis

Beautiful Nuthatch (VU) Sitta formosa

A definite tour highlight was great views of a pair of beautiful nuthatches singing,

feeding, and generally going about their business. Seen on consecutive days in the

same place.

Eurasian Treecreeper Certhia familiaris

Rusty-flanked Treecreeper Certhia nipalensis

Brown-throated Treecreeper Certhia discolor

Eurasian Wren Troglodytes troglodytes

Brown Dipper Cinclus pallasii

Striated Bulbul Pycnonotus striatus

Red-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus cafer

Red-whiskered Bulbul Pycnonotus jocosus

Mountain Bulbul Ixos mcclellandii

Black Bulbul Hypsipetes leucocephalus

Tickell's Leaf-Warbler Phylloscopus affinis

Buff-barred Warbler Phylloscopus pulcher



Ashy-throated Warbler Phylloscopus maculipennis

Pale-rumped Warbler Phylloscopus chloronotus

Yellow-browed Warbler Phylloscopus inornatus

Greenish Warbler Phylloscopus trochiloides

Blyth's Leaf-Warbler Phylloscopus reguloides

Whistler's Warbler Seicercus whistleri

Gray-hooded Warbler Seicercus xanthoschistos

Gray-cheeked Warbler Seicercus poliogenys

Chestnut-crowned Warbler Seicercus castaniceps

Common Tailorbird Orthotomus sutorius

Hill Prinia Prinia atrogularis

Fire-tailed Myzornis Myzornis pyrrhoura

Seen very briefly twice in Eaglenest, but just enough for everyone to see.

Black-throated Parrotbill Paradoxornis nipalensis

We saw several of these charismatic little parrotbills with a large understory flock on

our last morning from Sunderview Camp.

Rufous-headed (White-breasted)

Parrotbill Paradoxornis ruficeps

Seen very well just as we were leaving Eaglenest while we were giving one last,

desperate search for Bugun Liocichla. Rufous-headed Parrotbill was recently split

several ways, with this form now called White-breasted Parrotbill.

Rufous-gorgeted Flycatcher Ficedula strophiata

Red-breasted (Taiga) Flycatcher Ficedula albicilla

Snowy-browed Flycatcher Ficedula hyperythra

Nice looks at a male of this uncommon flycatcher in Eaglenest.

Little Pied Flycatcher Ficedula westermanni

Ultramarine Flycatcher Ficedula superciliaris

Sapphire Flycatcher Ficedula sapphira

A beautiful male was seen in the old Sessni Camp as we took a break and awaited

our lunch to arrive.

Verditer Flycatcher Eumyias thalassinus

Large Niltava Niltava grandis

Small Niltava Niltava macgrigoriae

Pale Blue-Flycatcher Cyornis unicolor

Pygmy Blue-Flycatcher Muscicapella hodgsoni

Red-flanked Bluetail Tarsiger cyanurus

Very common this trip, we saw them well many times.

Golden Bush-Robin Tarsiger chrysaeus

A beautiful male was in streamside scrub on the lower reaches of the Mandala Road.

Oriental Magpie-Robin Copsychus saularis

Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros

Hodgson's Redstart Phoenicurus hodgsoni

White-throated Redstart Phoenicurus schisticeps

Great views of this stunning redstart near the village of Mandala.



Blue-fronted Redstart Phoenicurus frontalis

White-capped Redstart Chaimarrornis leucocephalus

Plumbeous Redstart Rhyacornis fuliginosa

White-tailed Robin (H) Cinclidium leucurum

Slaty-backed Forktail Enicurus schistaceus

Green Cochoa Cochoa viridis

Incredible scope views of a bird sitting on a completely exposed branch on the lower

slopes of Eaglenest. We traded the use of our scope for news of the bird! It was a

good deal all around, considering how infrequently this species is actually seen.

Common Stonechat Saxicola torquata

Gray Bushchat Saxicola ferreus

Chestnut-bellied Rock-Thrush Monticola rufiventris

Blue Whistling-Thrush Myophonus caeruleus

White-collared Blackbird Turdus albocinctus

Gray-winged Blackbird Turdus boulboul

Eurasian (Tibetan) Blackbird Turdus merula

A rarity here, this species (often split as Tibetan Blackbird) has been seen each of

the last two winters at Sela Pass, where we saw a group of three females and a male.

Black-throated Thrush Turdus atrogularis

Red-throated Thrush Turdus ruficollis

We found a wonderful mixed flock containing many of both of the former Dark-

throated Thrush complex. We even had males of both species in the scope at the

same time as they fed along the roadside.

White-throated Laughingthrush Garrulax albogularis

White-crested Laughingthrush Garrulax leucolophus

Striated Laughingthrush Garrulax striatus

Gray-sided Laughingthrush (H) Garrulax caerulatus

This always elusive laughingthrush was heard several times, but only glimpsed

briefly. We heard it doing a perfect imitation of Large Hawk-Cuckoo as well.

Bhutan Laughingthrush Garrulax imbricatus

Blue-winged Laughingthrush (H) Garrulax squamatus

Black-faced Laughingthrush Garrulax affinis

Some very nice views below Sela Pass. Fortunately they were close enough to us

that the fog didn’t matter.

Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush Garrulax erythrocephalus

Abbott's Babbler (H) Malacocincla abbotti

Streak-breasted Scimitar-Babbler Pomatorhinus ruficollis

When we were struggling to see anything through the fog as we ascended Sela Pass,

one of these guys came close for us and lifted our spirits.

Coral-billed Scimitar-Babbler Pomatorhinus ferruginosus

Nice views of this rare and difficult-to-see scimitar babbler with a flock of barwings

below Bomphu Camp.

Slender-billed Scimitar-Babbler Xiphirhynchus superciliaris

We had fantastic looks at this outrageous-looking bird at the higher reaches of the

Mandala Road. Also heard several times elsewhere.

Long-billed Wren-Babbler Rimator malacoptilus



We had great looks at this super-skulker singing and feeding in dense scrub below

Bomphu.

Eyebrowed Wren-Babbler (H) Napothera epilepidota

Pygmy Wren-Babbler Pnoepyga pusilla

Rufous-throated Wren-Babbler

(NT) Spelaeornis caudatus

We had nice looks at this lovely babbler below Bomphu.

Bar-winged Wren-Babbler Spelaeornis troglodytoides

Another highlight of the tour was incredible, point-blank views of a pair of these

exquisite wren-babblers on the Mandala Road.

Spotted Wren-Babbler Spelaeornis formosus

We heard this species’ remarkable song at very close range, but only saw it fly across

the road.

Blackish-breasted Babbler (NT) Sphenocichla humei

Nice views of pair below Bomphu. Also heard at a couple of other locales in

Eaglenest.

Rufous-capped Babbler Stachyris ruficeps

Golden Babbler Stachyris chrysaea

Gray-throated Babbler (H) Stachyris nigriceps

Pin-striped Tit-Babbler Macronous gularis

Silver-eared Mesia Leiothrix argentauris

Himalayan Cutia Cutia nipalensis

A very showy flock that we came across a few times kept us entertained as we

searched in vain for Bugun Liocichla on our final morning at Eaglenest.

Black-headed Shrike-Babbler Pteruthius rufiventer

Another rare Eastern Himalayan specialty, we had stunning views of a male. We

also heard it several other times.

White-browed Shrike-Babbler Pteruthius flaviscapis

Green Shrike-Babbler Pteruthius xanthochlorus

Black-eared Shrike-Babbler Pteruthius melanotis

Rusty-fronted Barwing Actinodura egertoni

Hoary-throated Barwing Actinodura nipalensis

Streak-throated Barwing Actinodura waldeni

Chestnut-tailed Minla Minla strigula

Red-tailed Minla Minla ignotincta

Golden-breasted Fulvetta Alcippe chrysotis

A characteristic bird of high-elevation bamboo in the eastern Himalayas, we had

stunning views several times of this most-colorful of the fulvettas.

Yellow-throated Fulvetta Alcippe cinerea

Rufous-winged Fulvetta Alcippe castaneceps

Ludlow's Fulvetta Alcippe ludlowi

This range-restricted species replaces White-browed Fulvetta to the east, and is

likewise fairly common.

Beautiful Sibia Heterophasia pulchella

Long-tailed Sibia Heterophasia picaoides

White-naped Yuhina Yuhina bakeri



Whiskered Yuhina Yuhina flavicollis

Stripe-throated Yuhina Yuhina gularis

Rufous-vented Yuhina Yuhina occipitalis

Black-chinned Yuhina Yuhina nigrimenta

White-bellied Yuhina Yuhina zantholeuca

Oriental White-eye Zosterops palpebrosus

Common Hill Myna Gracula religiosa

White-vented Myna Acridotheres grandis

Jungle Myna Acridotheres fuscus

Common Myna Acridotheres tristis

Asian Pied Starling Gracupica contra

Chestnut-tailed Starling Sturnia malabarica

Golden-fronted Leafbird Chloropsis aurifrons

Orange-bellied Leafbird Chloropsis hardwickii

Yellow-bellied Flowerpecker Dicaeum melanoxanthum

We twice had nice looks at this huge flowerpecker.

Fire-breasted Flowerpecker Dicaeum ignipectum

Gould's Sunbird Aethopyga gouldiae

Green-tailed Sunbird Aethopyga nipalensis

Black-throated Sunbird Aethopyga saturata

Fire-tailed Sunbird Aethopyga ignicauda

We saws three beautiful males together at a flowering tree below Sunderview Camp.

Streaked Spiderhunter Arachnothera magna

Rufous-breasted Accentor Prunella strophiata

Citrine Wagtail Motacilla citreola

White Wagtail Motacilla alba

Oriental (Paddyfield) Pipit Anthus rufulus

Olive-backed Pipit Anthus hodgsoni

Little Bunting Emberiza pusilla

Crimson-browed Finch Pinicola subhimachala

Common Rosefinch Carpodacus erythrinus

(Himalayan) White-browed

Rosefinch Carpodacus thura

We saw a small flock of these intensely pink finches below Sela Pass.

(Himalayan) Beautiful Rosefinch Carpodacus pulcherrimus

A male was with the flock of White-browed Rosefinches below Sela Pass.

Scarlet Finch Haematospiza sipahi

Yellow-breasted Greenfinch Chloris spinoides

Tibetan Serin Serinus thibetanus

We were very lucky to have a flock of about twenty of these uncommon finches land

in a tree right next to us on the Mandala Road, where we watched them feed on buds

until we had had our fill.

Brown Bullfinch Pyrrhula nipalensis



Not always an easy bird to find, we saw them very well several times in Eaglenest, in

flocks of up to 15 or more birds.

Red-headed Bullfinch Pyrrhula erythrocephala

Nice looks at a pair on the Mandala Road.

Gray-headed Bullfinch Pyrrhula erythaca

Gold-naped Finch Pyrrhoplectes epauletta

Some very nice looks, first on the Mandala Road, then again at Eaglenest.

White-winged Grosbeak Mycerobas carnipes

Red Crossbill Loxia curvirostra

Two juveniles were feeding on the ground underneath the new restaurant in Lama

Camp one morning.

Russet Sparrow Passer rutilans

Eurasian Tree Sparrow Passer montanus

MAMMAL LIST

Capped Langur Trachyptithecus pileatus

Seen right over our tents in Nameri Eco-camp.

Assam Macaque Macaca assemensis

Black Giant Squirrel Rotufa bicolor

Hoary-bellied Squirrel Callosciurus pygerythrus

Himalayan Striped Squirrel Tamiops mcclellandii

Orange-bellied Himalayan Squirrel Dremomys lokriah

Indian Gray (Common) Mongoose Herpestes edwardsii

Nice views while we were birding in the fields behind Nameri Eco-camp.

Barking Deer Muntiacus muintjak

Good views of one standing on the track in Eaglenest.

Wild Boar Sus scrofa

We startled one taking a mud bath in the forested pond in Nameri.

Indian Elephant Elephas maximus

We watched one cooling itself off in the Jia Bhareli River during our rafting trip.

Northeast India 2011 trip report - Home - Tropical Birding · · 2016-10-19Northeast India has...

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