SURFACE DESIGN TECHNIQUE

Presented by:

Gargi BiswasJulee KumariNayan ParijatSurbhi Manna

Badla, along with kamdani and mukesh is a name given today to a metal embroidery technique. Badla is also the name for a drawn, flattened metal thread mainly used in embroidery, but also used for the production of plaited and woven trimmings. The technique was probably brought to India by the Mughals in the 16th century. The small metal dots called fardi, can be found on textiles in many countries of Turkish and Muslim influnce, like India, Egypt and Iran.

Mukesh done on a tie-die silk fabric (mid 20th century India). Used by Vohra Muslim women

ABOUT BADLA WORK

Over the years the metal used to make badla and the fabrics on which it has been used, have changed. Originally precious metals, such as silver and gold, were used to plate a base metal, today alternative materials like plain steel and colored steel are used.

The fabrics most frequently employed for badla embroidery have been fine semi-transparent fabrics (net, voile, muslin) made of fine cotton and silk yarn. Today semi-transparent fabrics are used but most of them are from man-made yarns.

Market Survey Done in Dharmatalla…..

ARTISANS WORKING AT THE SITE

In this work, metal ingots are melted and pressed through perforated steel sheets to convert into wires. They are then hammered to the required thinness. Plain wire is called badla, and when wound round a thread, it is called kasav. Smaller spangles are called sitara and tiny dots made of badla are called mukaish.

TEXTURES DEVELOPED ON THE FABRIC SURFACE BY MUKESH WORK

Metal work usually needs to be done on a taut fabric which is stretched on a frame. Badla requires no frame, but it has to be

taut so that the fabric is wrapped around the first finger and held between the third and fourth finger.

This means the technique can be used with others that are worked in the hand and in some places in India badla has been

integrated with a local traditional textile technique, like, in Lucknow mukesh with chikankari; in Jaipur with printed

textiles.

Today the technique is popular in Western India where workshops have traditionally used badla on fine fabrics on

sarees and odhani for the local and Middle Eastern markets.

Rohit Bal presented his collection in the Delhi Couture Week.Titled “Khakastari” the persian word for colors of ash.The colors used were black, gold and burgundy with a varied fabric chart with organza, net, chanderi, silk and velvet which were textured with quilting, pin tucks, metallic and thread embroidery.Intricate zardosi with mukesh work was used to add details and drama to the garments.

ROHIT BAL

JAYA RATHORE

Jaya Rathore showcased her Autumn/Winter 2010 collection at the Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week recently .The theme of Jaya’s collection was ‘Out from my grandmom’s treasury!’ – showcasing her penchant for exclusive antiques.

Here she experiments with medieval-age convent stitches that have been extensively used in appliqué, borders and laces which are then applied on the garment and the badla or mukesh work.   The fabrics used are net, georgettes, silk, handloom, tussar and satin.

Ekru by Ekta and Ruchira showcased their garments in the Delhi Couture week. Their redefined outfits striked a balance between traditional and contemporary.The designer duo had drawn their inspiration from Mughal architecture and costumes.They combined zardosi work with mukesh work to create beautiful designs.

EKTA AND RUCHIRA

THANK YOU