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Transcript of Moser Catalogue III_English_Baselworld 2012_novelties
P A S S I O N A T E LY D I F F E R E N T
W A T C H M A K I N G O V E R T W O C E N T U R I E S
M O S E R S C H A F F H A U S E N A G
S W I T Z E R L A N D
THE PRESENT-DAY COMPANY
HEADQUARTERS OF MOSER GROUP AG
ARE IN THE IMMEDIATE VICINITY OF THE
RHINE FALLS AT SCHAFFHAUSEN. EUROPE’S
LARGEST WATERFALL ATTRACTS VISITORS
FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD EVERY YEAR.
AT AN AVERAGE FLOW, AROUND 700
CUBIC METRES OF WATER PER SECOND
CASCADE OVER THE ROCKS AND OFFER A
SPECTACULAR SIGHT.
7
CONTENTS
9 FOREWORD
10 THE MOSER WATCHMAKING DYNASTY IN SCHAFFHAUSEN 13 COMPANY HISTORY HEINR ICH MOSER THE WATCHMAKER COMPANY, BR AND NAME AND SE AL
24 TURN OF THE MILLENNIUM V IS IONS
28 MOSER PERPETUAL 1 PERPE TUAL CALENDAR AND FL ASH CALENDAR
36 PERPETUAL MOON CENTRE SECONDS MOSER DOUBLE BARREL
42 MONARD
50 MONARD DATE THE B IG DATE FROM MOSER 58 MERIDIAN ALTERNAT ING 12- AND 24-HOUR D ISPL AY AUTOMAT IC PAWL WINDING SYSTEM
66 MAYU WHEEL S, P IN IONS AND LE VERS HACK ING SECOND
76 HENRY DOUBLE HAIRSPRING STR AUMANN DOUBLE HA IRSPRING
84 LIMITED COLLECTORS EDITIONS
90 TECHNICAL DETAILS TE AM SPIR IT AND SPECIAL ISTS DOUBLE PULL CROWN ( DPC ) MECHANISM THE STR AUMANN HA IRSPRING ® INTERCHANGE ABLE ESCAPEMENT MODULE THE CR AF TSMAN’S ART F IN ISH ING
103 TIMELINE
108 IMPRINT
C O N T E N T S
14-CARAT GOLD HUNTER POCKET WATCH
WITH MINUTE REPEATER AND
CHRONOGRAPH, CA 1900
8
9
It gives me great pleasure, dear watch enthusiast, to intro-
duce you to the watches from H. Moser & Cie in this new
edition of our catalogue, although the origins of the com-
pany actually go back some 180 years. The history encom-
passes the life of my great-grandfather Heinrich Moser,
born more than 200 years ago, who had already gained an
international reputation as a watchmaker by the age of 21,
and the successful relaunch of the H. Moser & Cie brand
in 2005.
At the beginning of the 21st century, in the course of his
research, the Schaffhausen horologist Dr. Jürgen Lange
came across the Moser watch dynasty including me as one
of the descendants. The desire to revive the H. Moser & Cie
watch brand arose from our subsequent meeting. I was de-
lighted to accept the honourable task of representing the
company externally. Today our thanks are due primarily
to the friends of the house of Moser, who have remained
loyal to us for so long, and in particular to our highly
committed shareholders and employees. The new start
would not have been possible without their keen interest
and their passionate involvement. We can look back with
pride over everything that has happened during this pe-
riod. Among other things, we were awarded the prestig-
ious Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève for our Moser
Perpetual 1. New calibres, such as the Henry Double
Hairspring with its revolutionary new escapement sys-
tem, and, most recently, the first Moser watch with auto-
matic winding, have also found a place in our family of
watches.
It fills me with pride and joy today, as the great-grandson
of Heinrich Moser, to have returned to the place where he
used to work and to be able again to present watches that
are entitled to bear the name of such an important and
innovative man.
FOREWORD
ROGER NICHOLAS BALSIGER
HONORARY CHAIRMAN OF THE BOARD
OF DIRECTORS MOSER GROUP AG
SCHAFFHAUSEN, MARCH 2012
F O R E W O R D
More than 30 other watchmakers are listed in the town
records in the 17th century. Yet not until Johannes Moser
(1730–1820), the grandfather of Heinrich Moser, would
the town again see a watchmaker whose works have stood
the test of time. As town watchmaker and magistrate in
the local court, Johannes Moser was a respected figure.
10
Schaffhausen’s reputation as an important watchmaking
town can be traced back to the middle of the 16th cen-
tury. Joachim Habrecht, who received the Town Charter
of Schaffhausen in 1539, went on to build the astronomi-
cal clock for the Schaffhausen Fronwagturm tower, which
is still in operation. His two sons, Isaac (1544–1620) and
Josias (1552–1575) Habrecht, built the second astronomi-
cal clock in Strasbourg Cathedral and were among the
most famous watchmakers of their age. A table clock by
Isaac Habrecht exhibited at the Museum of Applied Arts
and Design in the city of Winterthur bears witness to the
artistic skills and refined craftsmanship of the watchmak-
ers of that period.
In the master enameller and engraver Georg Michael Mo-
ser (1706–1783), the town once again produced a horo-
logical craftsman whose fame would spread beyond its
boundaries. His elaborately executed gold cases adorn
many a collection of important watches. Georg Michael
Moser, a distant relative of Heinrich Moser, also became
a founding member of the British Royal Academy of Arts
in later years.
THE MOSER WATCHMAKING DYNAST Y IN SCHAFFHAUSEN
TABLE CLOCK SIGNED
«JOHANNES MOSER IN SCHAFFHAUSEN»,
CA 1770, HOMBERGER COLLECTION, SCHAFFHAUSEN
11W A T C H M A K I N G D Y N A S T Y
VERGE POCKET WATCH SIGNED
«ERHARD MOSER A SCHAFFHOUSE»
EARLY 19TH CENTURY
He established the Moser watchmaking dynasty with the
trade mark of the highest quality and superb craftsman-
ship. His son Erhard Moser (1760–1829) succeeded him in
the trade of town watchmaker. Like his father before him,
Erhard Moser was also well known beyond his occupa-
tion as a watchmaker as a member of the Grand Council
and Town Commissioner. He introduced his son Hein-
rich Moser, born in 1805 in the «Haus zum Blauen Him-
mel» in Schaffhausen, to the watchmaker’s craft.
The artistic skill of Heinrich Moser’s creations very soon
gained him international respect and recognition. He be-
came the leading Schaffhausen exponent of this craft
with businesses in St. Petersburg and Le Locle, among
other locations. He opened a workshop for the manufac-
ture of watch cases in Schaffhausen in 1853, and he estab-
lished a school for watchmakers in 1856. He supported F.
A. Jones in the foundation of the International Watch
Company (IWC) in 1868 by providing him with premises
and low-cost electricity supplied via a power transmission
system.
IWC kept the watchmaking tradition of Schaffhausen
alive for a great many years and with a very chequered
history. Not until 2002 would far-sighted, entrepreneurial
courage once again provide the stimulus for a new, «old»
H. Moser & Cie watch factory.
The records tell us that the establishment of his watch busi-
ness in Schaffhausen was indeed Heinrich Moser’s lifelong
dream. Now, more than 200 years after the birth of Hein-
rich Moser in Schaffhausen, the story of an enterprise
which first set up in business in St. Petersburg in 1826 has
come full circle with the relaunch of the H. Moser & Cie
brand.
13C O M P A N Y H I S T O R Y
Heinrich Moser was born on 12 December 1805 into the
large family of the town watchmaker of Schaffhausen,
Erhard Moser. He grew up in 19th-century Schaffhausen
surrounded by the tradition and experience of a watch-
making dynasty consolidated over several generations. He
worked in the family business from 1820 to 1824, where
he learned the traditional watchmaker’s craft from his
father, and subsequently broadened his knowledge in the
watchmaking town of Le Locle in western Switzerland. In
1826, Heinrich Moser started work on his own account
and built clocks into cases and pieces of furniture for a
German merchant. His plans to succeed to the position of
town watchmaker after the death of his father, a vocation
which had been performed by the family for two genera-
tions, were thwarted by the town council in Schaff-
hausen. He would hold this against the authorities for the
rest of his life.
As an ambitious and visionary watchmaker, Heinrich
Moser decided to set up in business in distant Russia.
Imperial Russia at that time was regarded as an excellent
labour and sales market and as a sound trading base for
watches. In order to prepare for this challenge, Heinrich
Moser used his free time to build watches and tools that
would facilitate his start-up in business. He had the equiv-
alent of around 2,000 Swiss francs in cash at the time of
his departure in November 1827.
His journey to St. Petersburg in 1827 was anything but
comfortable. Heinrich Moser travelled by coach via
Karlsruhe and Weimar to Stettin, and onwards by pas-
senger ship to St. Petersburg.
HEINRICH MOSER THE WATCHMAKER
HEINRICH MOSER’S PASSPORT,
DATING FROM 1872
14
GOLD MINUTE REPEATER
BY HEINRICH MOSER,
END OF THE 19TH CENTURY
15
After working for a number of employers as a watchmaker,
he founded his own company in St. Petersburg at the end
of 1828. This marked the inception of the highly success-
ful H. Moser & Cie brand. Alongside expensive precision
watches and watches designed as pieces of jewellery, Hein-
rich Moser also offered a range of simple watches.
In the course of developing his trading network, he real-
ized that a successful wholesaler would also benefit from
being a manufacturer at the same time. Heinrich Moser
accordingly established a watch factory in Le Locle in
1829, which manufactured watches exclusively for his
own businesses. This enabled him to guarantee the high
quality of the products bearing his name. He was later
made an honorary citizen of Le Locle in recognition of
his services to the town in the Swiss Jura. One of the
company buildings exists there to this day and is listed as
a historic monument. In addition to the movements pro-
duced in his own factory in Le Locle, he also purchased
movement blanks from such prestigious companies as
Urban Jürgensen or Jaeger-LeCoultre. Their records list
him as a regular customer from 1860.
Heinrich Moser’s constant quest for quality was crowned
by success. He supplied the Imperial Court, various
princes and the armed forces in Russia. Within just a few
years, he was selling watches to Persia, China and Japan,
as well as New York and Paris, where his brother Georg
Moser was also working as a watchmaker. Only 15 years
after founding his company, Heinrich Moser was the un-
disputed market leader in the Russian watch trade. He
returned to his home town of Schaffhausen as a prosper-
ous watch manufacturer and merchant at the end of 1848.
BUSINESS DEALINGS
WITH NEW YORK AND PARIS
IN 1867 AND 1868
C O M P A N Y H I S T O R Y
17
In addition to watchmaking, Heinrich Moser’s life fol-
lowing his return to Switzerland was also characterized
by other projects combined with restless creativity. With
his pioneering spirit, he initiated the transformation of
the previously sleepy town of Schaffhausen into a dy-
namic industrial location. In 1851, Heinrich Moser com-
pleted the construction of a channel on the River Rhine,
which provided the water power to drive a turbine with an
output of around 80 hp. This was followed in 1853 by a
joint venture with other Schaffhausen personalities for
the establishment of Schweizerische Waggonfabrik bei
Schaffhausen (Swiss Wagonworks at Schaffhausen),
which changed its name to Schweizerische Industrieges-
ellschaft (SIG) Neuhausen (Swiss Industrial Company
Neuhausen) in 1863. He was also a co-founder of the
Schaffhausen–Winterthur railway line in 1853. In the
winter of 1863/64, Heinrich Moser embarked on the con-
struction of the largest Swiss dam at that time on the
River Rhine at Schaffhausen, which enabled him to sup-
ply neighbouring industrial companies with inexpensive
energy via a power transmission system. The subsequent
establishment of Wasserwerk Gesellschaft Schaffhausen
(Schaffhausen Waterworks Company) in 1865 marked
the dawn of the industrial age in Schaffhausen.
His professional success and the acceptance of Heinrich
Moser in social circles contrasted sharply with his private
life, which was at times overshadowed by considerable
disappointments. The premature death of his first wife
Charlotte, née Mayu, in 1850 thus curtailed Moser’s oth-
erwise seemingly inexhaustible creative power for a while.
She would not live to see the completion of the Charlot-
tenfels country estate near Schaffhausen, which had been
named after her. Heinrich Moser was similarly never able
to reconcile himself to the fact that his only son, Henri
Moser (1844–1923), never took up the reins of his father’s
watch business.
Heinrich Moser died on 23 October 1874. Present-day
visitors to Schaffhausen continue to experience the spirit
of Heinrich Moser. The house
where he was born, known as the
«Haus zum Blauen Himmel», and
the Charlottenfels country manor
still exist. A modern power station
now stands on the dam on the Riv-
er Rhine. The majority of the com-
panies founded by or with the sup-
port of Heinrich Moser are
operating successfully to this day.
The residents of Schaffhausen
have honoured their fellow citizen
by naming Moserstrasse after him,
with his bronze bust in the Moser-
garten park and, not least, with the Charlottenfels coun-
try estate, which is open to the public. The top floor of
this building now houses the Moser Family Museum,
with a watch room full of testimonies to his tireless crea-
tivity.
CHARLOTTENFELS COUNTRY MANOR
NEAR SCHAFFHAUSEN, NOW THE SITE OF THE
FAMILY MUSEUM
WATCHMAKER’S WORKPLACE
IN THE WATCH ROOM
C O M P A N Y H I S T O R Y
19
The fi rst internationally ac-
tive company founded by
Heinrich Moser in 1828 was
the St. Petersburg trading
company, H. Moser & Co.
From this name, he devel-
oped the company signature
in Latin and Cyrillic script,
which was almost always accompanied by a seal. In 1829,
he opened a watch factory in Le Locle under the name
«H. Moser & Cie» or also «H. Moser & Co.». These trade
marks were used as the standard signature on all the watch-
es supplied by Moser’s watch business until around 1918.
His watches were of the best quality, and Heinrich Moser
personally paid painstaking attention to purchasing only
from the best suppliers and producing at the highest level.
SIGNATORIES OF
H. MOSER & CIE
DATING FROM 1842
FABERGÉ TABLE CLOCK
WITH MOSER DOUBLE BARREL MOVEMENT
The range at times consisted of up to 70 different calibres.
Moser sold to the Imperial Court, to various princes and
to the armed forces. In Japan, China and Persia, but also
in Paris and New York: The name H. Moser & Cie stood
for quality and met the highest expectations throughout
the world.
Heinrich Moser also included
other watch companies among
his customers. For example, the
famous Fabergé table clocks
were equipped almost without
exception with movements pro-
duced by Moser; even at that
time, incidentally, these clocks
had two spring barrels arranged
in series.
COMPANY, BR AND NAME AND SEAL
C O M P A N Y H I S T O R Y
21
Following Heinrich Moser’s death, his second wife Fanny
sold the two businesses with the proviso that they would
continue to operate under the name «H. Moser & Cie» or
«Heinrich Moser & Co.». In spite of this measure, it was
eventually no longer possible to assure the uniformity of
the company name. The style «Hy Moser & Cie» was evi-
dently also used in Le Locle. By 1979, the watch factory had
become a part of the Dixi Mechanique Group as «Hy Mo-
ser & Cie». Since then, the only trade in Moser watches has
been in the antique market.
BOXES OF MOVEMENT PARTS,
CA 1870 TO 1890,
LANGE COLLECTION, SCHAFFHAUSEN
The Russian operation had already been expropriated
without compensation in 1917 in the aftermath of the
October Revolution. Around the year 1920, the state-
owned «Central Watch Repair Workshop» was formed in
Moscow from the remains of the Moser watch business-
es, from which a watch production facility of its own
would eventually emerge. Moser watches continued to be
regarded as synonymous with work of the highest quality
for some considerable time afterwards. In 1966, the gov-
ernment of what was the USSR presented one of its high-
ranking military officers with an original Moser pocket
watch in 18-carat gold, dating from the period before the
expropriation and bearing an engraved dedication for his
services to the implantation of communism. This watch is
now back in the company museum.
MINUTE REPEATER WITH
PERPETUAL CALENDAR AND
MOON PHASE, CA 1870
GOLD HUNTER POCKET WATCH H. MOSER & CIE,
IMPERIAL EAGLE IN COLOURED ENAMEL
C O M P A N Y H I S T O R Y
23
Heinrich Moser’s only son had no surviving offspring,
and with his death in 1923, the name of Moser also died
out in this branch of the family.
Dr. Jürgen Lange and the great-grandson of Heinrich
Moser, Roger Nicholas Balsiger, jointly with private in-
vestors, founded the Moser Schaffhausen AG watch
company in 2002. Dr. Jürgen Lange also registered the
original H. Moser & Cie brand again internationally.
The sites occupied by the company
today are located, according to
Heinrich Moser’s original plan, in
Schaffhausen and Neuhausen in the
immediate vicinity of the Rhine
Falls. To this day, however, the ex-
traordinary Moser watches are also
produced in the Swiss Jura.
Moser watches of the new era com-
bine horological passion with au-
thentic tradition.
THE FACTORY IN LE LOCLE,
BUILT AROUND 1900
PRESENT-DAY COMPANY BUILDING
IN NEUHAUSEN NEAR THE RHINE FALLS
Mechanical movements of the best quality, developed by
the company and used exclusively in its watches, combine
innovation with maximum customer benefit. Creative
and horological traditions ensure that the new watches
also have a high degree of brand recognition.
The story came full circle with the 200th anniversary of
Heinrich Moser’s birth in 2005: The H. Moser & Cie
brand has returned to Schaffhausen.
C O M P A N Y H I S T O R Y
T U R N O F T H E M I L L E N N I U M
V I S I O N S 27
VISIONS
At the start of this century, the industrial pioneer Hein-
rich Moser, who is well known in the region above all for
his water constructions, came to the notice of the Schaff-
hausen horologist Dr. Jürgen Lange. He began to research
Moser’s life and in particular the history of the Moser
watchmaking dynasty and its watches. He was especially
interested to discover the reason why the H. Moser & Cie
watch brand, highly sought-after in collectors’ circles,
could nowadays only be found in the antique market. In
the course of his investigations, Dr. Jürgen Lange came
across Roger Nicholas Balsiger, the great-grandson of
Heinrich Moser. Balsiger had already made a name for
himself as a family historian in numerous publications.
The meeting between the horological expert Dr. Jürgen
Lange and the internationally active banker Roger Ni-
cholas Balsiger proved to be an auspicious one. The two
men decided to revive the legendary H. Moser & Cie
watch brand. The brand was registered internationally,
and Moser Schaffhausen AG was launched as a watch-
making company in a joint venture with other investors.
A subsequent merger of horological engineering compa-
nies resulted in the formation of Moser Group AG, the
present trade mark owner. Roger Nicholas Balsiger today
holds the position of Honorary Chairman of the Board
of Directors, and Dr. Jürgen Lange has operational re-
sponsibility for the business.
ESCAPEMENT MODULE
ON A SEPARATE CARRIER PLATE
LINE DRAWING OF THE
MONARD MOVEMENT
CAL. HMC 343.505
MONARD MOVEMENT ON THE
ASSEMBLY WORKSTATION
M O S E R P E R P E T UA L 1
The «Double Pull Crown» mechanism makes it easier to
locate the central position of the crown for setting the
date. It effectively prevents the inadvertent adjustment of
the hands with the crown in its outermost position.
The rapidly and easily interchangeable escapement mod-
ule provides enhanced ease of servicing. This module was
used for the first time by Moser and assists the watch-
maker to reduce the length of the service times.
Another exclusive and unique feature is the execution of
the pallet fork and the escapement wheel in hardened
solid gold.
A three-part, round designer case in precious metal, 40.8
mm in diameter and 11.05 mm thick, with freely formed
side surfaces, discreetly convex sapphire glass and a see-
through sapphire glass back give the watch its unmistak-
able appearance.
MOSER PERPETUAL 1
MONTH DISPLAY FROM THE CENTRE
USING THE HOUR INDICES
A mechanical watch with a perpetual calendar, of a kind
never previously seen: the Moser Perpetual 1. Distin-
guished with the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, the
most prestigious and coveted award of the Swiss horo-
logical industry.
This extraordinary watch of the new generation is eq-
uipped with the Moser double barrel and possesses a
minimum power reserve of seven days when fully wound.
The perpetual calendar, coordinated by purely mechani-
cal means to the various lengths of the months and the
leap year, captivates with the unique clarity of its display.
Only the easily legible, big date on the dial and the dis-
play of the month by a small hand from the centre of the
dial reveal to the connoisseur what an horological mas-
terpiece he has before him.
The display also referred to as the «Flash Calendar» pro-
vides for instantaneous changing of the date from the end
of the current month to the start of the following month,
without allowing any invalid numerals to appear in the
date window. This ensures the clear legibility of the date
at all times, without any irritating distractions.
If ever the date needs to be adjusted, this can be done
both forwards and backwards via the crown of the watch.
Adjustment is also possible when the watch is actually in
the process of changing the date. A unique safety mecha-
nism ensures that none of the delicate parts is damaged if
the watch changes to the next day while the wearer is ad-
justing the date backwards via the crown.
30
MOSER PERPETUAL 1
REFERENCE NO. 341.501-004
MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 341.501
HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS
DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE
MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS
POWER RESERVE DISPLAY
PERPETUAL FLASH CALENDAR DISPLAY
CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACKWARDS AT ANY
TIME VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT
DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM
HACKING SECOND
SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS
MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT
ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®
WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL
PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF
HARDENED SOLID GOLD
SILVER-PLATED DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH
THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD
DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS
SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK
ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP
WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD FOLDING CLASP
MOSER PERPETUAL 1
REFERENCE NO. 341.501-002
MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 341.501
HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS
DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE
MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS
POWER RESERVE DISPLAY
PERPETUAL FLASH CALENDAR DISPLAY
CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACKWARDS AT ANY
TIME VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT
DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM
HACKING SECOND
SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS
MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT
ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®
WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL
PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF
HARDENED SOLID GOLD
RHODIUM-PLATED DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH
THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN WHITE GOLD
DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS
SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK
ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP
WITH SOLID WHITE GOLD FOLDING CLASP
31M O S E R P E R P E T U A L 1
MOSER PERPETUAL 1
REFERENCE NO. 341.501-001
MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 341.501
HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS
DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE
MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS
POWER RESERVE DISPLAY
PERPETUAL FLASH CALENDAR DISPLAY
CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACKWARDS AT ANY
TIME VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT
DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM
HACKING SECOND
SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS
MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT
ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®
WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL
PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF
HARDENED SOLID GOLD
BLACK DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH
THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD
DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS
SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK
ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP
WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD FOLDING CLASP
MOSER PERPETUAL 1
REFERENCE NO. 341.501-006
MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 341.501
HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS
DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE
MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS
POWER RESERVE DISPLAY
PERPETUAL FLASH CALENDAR DISPLAY
CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACKWARDS AT ANY
TIME VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT
DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM
HACKING SECOND
SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS
MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT
ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®
WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL
PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF
HARDENED SOLID GOLD
ARDOISE SLATE DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH
THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN PLATINUM
DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS
SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK
ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP
WITH SOLID PLATINUM FOLDING CLASPMOVEMENT
CAL. HMC 341.501
33M O S E R P E R P E T U A L 1
34
MOSER PERPETUAL 1
REFERENCE NO. 341.101-009
MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 341.101
HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS
DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE
MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS
POWER RESERVE DISPLAY
PERPETUAL FLASH CALENDAR DISPLAY
CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACKWARDS AT ANY
TIME VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT
DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM
HACKING SECOND
SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS
MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT
WITH STRAUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING
PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF
SOLID WHITE GOLD
FUMÉ DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH
THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN PALLADIUM
DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS
SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK
ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP
WITH SOLID WHITE GOLD FOLDING CLASP
The term «perpetual
calendar» is always ap-
plied to mechanical
watches when the date,
despite the different
lengths of the months,
is always correctly in-
dicated automatically.
Including when Febru-
ary has 29 days every
four years. The Moser
Cal. HMC 341.501 movement is a 7-day hand-wound
movement with a perpetual calendar, which is adjustable
forwards and backwards at any time without restriction
via the winding crown in its central position.
This perpetual calendar is known as the «Flash Calen-
dar», because it possesses the world’s only date display
which changes directly from the last day of the current
month to the first day of the following month without
displaying invalid days; regardless of whether the month
has 30, 31, 28 or 29 days.
In spite of its complicated mechanism, the Flash Calen-
dar is only recognizable on the dial by the big date display
and by the very restrained design of the central hand for
the display of the month with reference to the twelve in-
dices for the hours.
The date can be adjusted via the patented «Double Pull
Crown» mechanism, which permits the crown to be set
reliably in the right position.
The display for the leap year cycle of 4 years is visible on
the movement side of the watch through the convex sap-
phire glass back. The indicator star for the leap year cycle
can be adjusted as required by means of an unobtrusive
pin pusher on the outside of the case.
35M O S E R P E R P E T U A L 1
PERPETUAL CALENDAR AND FL ASH CALENDAR
THE FLASH CALENDAR NEVER
DISPLAYS ANY INVALID DAYS
IDE VIEW OF THE EXCLUSIVE GOLD CASE OF THE MOSER PERPETUAL 1
WITH THE BUTTON FOR ADJUSTING THE LEAP YEAR STAR
LEAP YEAR STAR
P E R P E T UA L M O O NP E R P E T UA L M O O N
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
A special watch with a display of the phases of the moon,
which deviates by only 1 day after more than 1,027 years.
It shows the phases of the moon as seen in the Northern
hemisphere in a large window on the dial. We see various
phases of the moon depending on the relative positions
of the moon and the sun. The phases are depicted in a
unique way on this watch, and can be adjusted, read and
predicted accurately to the minute. One orbit of the
moon round the earth, which brings the moon back to its
original position in relation to the sun, takes on average
29.53059 days. To be precise, 29 days, 12 hours, 44 min-
utes and 2.9 seconds. The Perpetual Moon’s complicated
gear train translates this interval so precisely that the re-
sulting deviation is only 0.23 seconds per day – or one
day after 1,027.3 years.
The moon phase disc shows the currently illuminated
phase of the moon as the light area in the window aper-
ture. The dark area, on the other hand, represents the
shadow of the earth. Together they make up the astro-
nomical phases of the moon, which all over the world are
divided into eight quarters.
PHASES OF THE MOON
In order to achieve the extraordinarily high display ac-
curacy, the moon disc must be securely attached to the
hour indicator and run with it continuously. Neverthe-
less, the moon phase can also be corrected using a pin
pusher at 9 o’clock without interfering with the time dis-
play. A wrap spring clutch – used here for the first time in
a moon phase gear train – allows the time to be displayed
and the phase of the moon to be corrected without inter-
ruption. The pin pusher moves one of the 8 moon phases
forward on each occasion.
Additional orientation between day and night is provided
by a reduced display with a small central hand rotating
once every 24 hours. Together with a moon phase table
and the time setting appropriate for a particular phase of
the moon, the current moon phase can be set accurately
to the minute. The scale on the lower edge of the moon
phase display lets you predict to the day when the next
full moon phase will occur. Each mark on the scale rep-
resents a day.
A three-part, round designer case in precious metal, 40.8
mm in diameter and 11.05 mm thick, with freely formed
side surfaces, discreetly convex sapphire glass and a see-
through sapphire glass back, together with the night-blue
fumé dial, give the watch its unmistakable appearance.
38
1 NEW MOON 5 FULL MOON
2 WAXING CRESCENT MOON 6 WANING GIBBOUS MOON
3 FIRST QUARTER MOON 7 LAST QUARTER MOON
4 WAXING GIBBOUS MOON 8 WANING CRESCENT MOON
39P E R P E T U A L M O O N
PERPETUAL MOON
REFERENCE NO. 348.901-015
MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 348.901
HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS
DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE
MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS
POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE
PERPETUAL MOON PHASE DISPLAY
MOON PHASE ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACKWARDS AT ANY
TIME VIA A PIN PUSHER INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT
HACKING SECOND
SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS
MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT
ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®
WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL
PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF
HARDENED SOLID GOLD
BLUE FUMÉ DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH
THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN PLATINUM
DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS
SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK
ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP
WITH SOLID PLATINUM FOLDING CLASP
PERPETUAL MOON
REFERENCE NO. 348.901-013
MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 348.901
HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS
DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE
MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS
POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE
PERPETUAL MOON PHASE DISPLAY
MOON PHASE ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACKWARDS AT ANY
TIME VIA A PIN PUSHER INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT
HACKING SECOND
SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS
MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT
ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®
WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL
PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF
HARDENED SOLID GOLD
BLUE FUMÉ DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH
THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD
DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS
SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK
ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP
WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD FOLDING CLASP
P E R P E T U A L M O O N
To achieve the longest possible power reserve, the design-
ers have incorporated no fewer than two barrels into the
movement. These are arranged in tandem, so that the
power reserve is multiplied up to at least seven days com-
pared with only a single barrel.
The actual winding springs are made from an unbreaka-
ble and corrosion-resistant Nivafl ex material with a self-
lubricating surface.
In order to keep the wearer informed at all times of the
power reserve of the watch, a differential gear is con-
nected to the barrels. This gear ensures that the ring for
the power reserve display on the movement side moves to
the right when the watch is running normally. When the
watch is wound, however, the ring for the power reserve
display will move to the left. This means that the actual
status of both winding springs in the barrels is always in-
dicated.
Noblesse oblige: both barrels from Moser are supported
in screwed gold mounts. The
gold mount itself is fi xed in
the barrel bridge by three
bright-polished steel screws.
These screws are not blued,
but white, as has always been
the case with Moser.
One of the distinctive features of the Perpetual Moon is
the seconds hand originating from the centre of the mo-
tion work. This has the advantage that the individual,
one-second steps can be read more accurately thanks to
the great length of the hand.
The time can be set accurately to the second via the crown
with the help of the hacking second.
CENTRE SECONDS MOSER DOUBLE BARREL
CENTRE SECONDS HAND AND 24-HOUR INDICATOR ORIGINATING FROM THE CENTRE
WHEEL TRAIN WITH DOUBLE BARREL
MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 348.901
SCREWED GOLD MOUNT
41
M O N A R D
M O N A R D
A classic watch with just three hands to indicate the time,
but incorporating a movement that is full of convincing
innovations and timeless beauty: the Monard from Moser.
The fascination of this watch lies in its puristic appearance
and the renunciation of all fashionable special effects.
Moser would not be Moser, however, if a hint of the spirit
of the age, represented here by a case which is 40.8 mm in
diameter and 10.85 mm thick, had not found a place in the
watch.
The typically three-dimensional Moser hands, in conjunc-
tion with the very clear layout of the dial with a sun pat-
tern ground finish, ensure excellent legibility of the time.
The centre seconds symbolizes both the passage of time
and the function of the watch. Setting the watch accu-
rately to the second is possible in conjunction with the
hacking second when adjusting the hands.
The Monard is equipped with the Moser double barrel for
a minimum power reserve of seven days when fully wound
and incorporates a power reserve display that is visible
through the sapphire glass back on the movement side.
MONARD
An additional highlight of this exclusive watch is the use
of an escapement module, a world-first. Its easy inter-
changeability helps to reduce the time required for adjust-
ment when cleaning and servicing the watch.
The patented execution of the escapement wheel and pal-
let fork in hardened solid gold with highly polished work-
ing surfaces to minimize friction is also an expression of
the constant endeavour by the watchmakers at Moser to
make something that is already special into something
exceptional.
The Cal. HMC 343.505 movement of the Monard was
developed in-house as a hand-wound movement with true
bevel wheels in the winding part and is used exclusively by
Moser. The bevel wheels and the extremely efficient Mo-
ser tooth system used throughout the wheel train counter-
act wear and in so doing ensure a long service life.
All movements are individually numbered on the barrel
bridge and are recorded in the ledgers at Moser Schaff-
hausen AG. The seal on the movement, the screwed gold
mounts and the special Moser ground stripes are an ex-
pression of the watchmaker’s art at its most accomplished.
44
MONARD
REFERENCE NO. 343.505-012
MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 343.505
HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS
DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE
MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS
POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE
HACKING SECOND
SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS
MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT
ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®
WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL
PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF
HARDENED SOLID GOLD
RHODIUM-PLATED DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH
THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN WHITE GOLD
DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS
SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK
ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP
WITH SOLID WHITE GOLD BUCKLE
MONARD
REFERENCE NO. 343.505-013
MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 343.505
HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS
DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE
MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS
POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE
HACKING SECOND
SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS
MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT
ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®
WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL
PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF
HARDENED SOLID GOLD
SILVER-PLATED DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH
THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD
DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS
SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK
ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP
WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD BUCKLE
M O N A R D 45
MONARD
REFERENCE NO. 343.505-017
MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 343.505
HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS
DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE
MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS
POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE
HACKING SECOND
SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS
MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT
ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®
WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL
PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF
HARDENED SOLID GOLD
BLACK DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH
THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD
DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS
SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK
ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP
WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD BUCKLE
MONARD
REFERENCE NO. 343.505-015
MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 343.505
HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS
DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE
MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS
POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE
HACKING SECOND
SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS
MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT
ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®
WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL
PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF
HARDENED SOLID GOLD
ARDOISE SLATE DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH
THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN PLATINUM
DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS
SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK
ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP
WITH SOLID PLATINUM BUCKLE
M O N A R D 47
MOVEMENT
CAL. HMC 343.505
48
MONARD
REFERENCE NO. 343.505-018
MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 343.505
HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS
DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE
MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS
POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE
HACKING SECOND
SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS
MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT
ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®
WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL
PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF
HARDENED SOLID GOLD
LIGHT BROWN DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH
THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD
DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS
SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK
ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP
WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD BUCKLE
MONARD
REFERENCE NO. 343.505-019
MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 343.505
HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS
DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE
MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS
POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE
HACKING SECOND
SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS
MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT
ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®
WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL
PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF
HARDENED SOLID GOLD
DARK BROWN DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH
THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN WHITE GOLD
DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS
SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK
ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP
WITH SOLID WHITE GOLD BUCKLE
49
MONARD
REFERENCE NO. 343.506-016
MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 343.506
HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS
DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE
MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS
POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE
HACKING SECOND
SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS
MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT
WITH STRAUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING
PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF
SOLID WHITE GOLD
FUMÉ DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH
THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN PALLADIUM
DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS
SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK
ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP
WITH SOLID PALLADIUM BUCKLE
M O N A R D
M O N A R D DAT EM O N A R D DAT E
MONARD DATE
Timelessly elegant in appearance with centre seconds and
a big date display: the Monard Date from Moser.
The Double Pull Crown mechanism makes it easy to lo-
cate the date adjustment position on the winding crown.
As a result, adjustment of the different lengths of the
months is performed with truly effortless ease, without
inadvertently changing the time.
A power reserve of at least seven days when fully wound
is assured by the Moser double barrel that is connected in
series. The actual power reserve of the watch is indicated
via a differential gear on the movement side and is visible
through the large sapphire glass back.
As in all the other models, the complete wheel train of
the watch is executed with a special Moser tooth system,
which has been designed to provide optimal torque trans-
mission and a long service life. This ensures that the
watch continues to show the time reliably, even after run-
ning for a long period.
Screwed gold mounts, into which synthetic ruby jewel
bearings are pressed, complete the equipment of this ex-
traordinary watch.
The interchangeable escapement module typical of Mo-
ser also ensures ease of servicing for the Monard Date. It
is used by Moser for the first time in the world and helps
to reduce the time required for adjustment when cleaning
and servicing the watch.
A further exclusivity is the patented execution of the pal-
let fork and escapement wheel in hardened solid gold
with polished working surfaces. The ruby pallets of the
pallet fork slide on the escapement wheel with low fric-
tion. The watch is subjected to less wear, and its function
is more reliable.
A three-part case made of precious metal, 40.8 mm in
diameter and 10.85 mm thick, with a discreetly convex
sapphire glass encloses this special manufactory move-
ment. Freely formed flanks on the bracelet lugs give the
watch an individual, refined appearance. The sapphire
glass see-through back permits an uninterrupted view of
the bridges with their characteristic Moser ground stripes.
The seal, already familiar to all collectors and featured on
the historic watches as a guarantee of authenticity, is also
visible through the sapphire glass back.
52
MONARD DATE
REFERENCE NO. 342.502-003
MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 342.502
HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS
DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE
MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS
POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE
BIG DATE
CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACKWARDS AT ANY
TIME VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT
DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM
HACKING SECOND
SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS
MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT
ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®
WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL
PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF
HARDENED SOLID GOLD
SILVER-PLATED DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH
THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD
DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS
SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK
ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP
WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD BUCKLE
MONARD DATE
REFERENCE NO. 342.502-002
MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 342.502
HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS
DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE
MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS
POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE
BIG DATE
CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACKWARDS AT ANY
TIME VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT
DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM
HACKING SECOND
SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS
MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT
ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®
WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL
PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF
HARDENED SOLID GOLD
RHODIUM-PLATED DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH
THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN WHITE GOLD
DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS
SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK
ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP
WITH SOLID WHITE GOLD BUCKLE
M O N A R D D A T E 53
DIAL OF THE CAL. HMC 342.502
MOVEMENT WITH THE TWO DATE RINGS
LYING ONE ON TOP OF THE OTHER
MONARD DATE
REFERENCE NO. 342.502-005
MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 342.502
HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS
DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE
MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS
POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE
BIG DATE
CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACKWARDS AT ANY
TIME VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT
DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM
HACKING SECOND
SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS
MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT
ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®
WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL
PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF
HARDENED SOLID GOLD
ARDOISE SLATE DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH
THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN PLATINUM
DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS
SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK
ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP
WITH SOLID PLATINUM BUCKLE
MONARD DATE
REFERENCE NO. 342.502-001
MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 342.502
HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS
DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE
MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS
POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE
BIG DATE
CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACKWARDS AT ANY
TIME VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT
DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM
HACKING SECOND
SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS
MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT
ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®
WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL
PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF
HARDENED SOLID GOLD
BLACK DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH
THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD
DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS
SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK
ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP
WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD BUCKLE
M O N A R D D A T E 55
MONARD DATE
REFERENCE NO. 342.502-007
MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 342.502
HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS
DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE
MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS
POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE
BIG DATE
CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACKWARDS AT ANY
TIME VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT
DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM
HACKING SECOND
SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS
MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT
ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®
WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL
PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF
HARDENED SOLID GOLD
DARK BROWN DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH
THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN WHITE GOLD
DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS
SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK
ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP
WITH SOLID WHITE GOLD BUCKLE
MONARD DATE
REFERENCE NO. 342.502-006
MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 342.502
HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS
DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE
MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS
POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE
BIG DATE
CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACKWARDS AT ANY
TIME VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT
DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM
HACKING SECOND
SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS
MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT
ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®
WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL
PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF
HARDENED SOLID GOLD
LIGHT BROWN DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH
THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD
DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS
SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK
ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP
WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD BUCKLE
56
THE BIG DATE FROM MOSER
The Monard Date capti-
vates with its elegance and
with the big date change
displayed at 6 o’clock in
the date window. As with
the Moser Perpetual 1, this
is in the form of two rings
lying one on top of the
other. These are the upper
ring with the numbers 1 to 15 and beneath
it the ring with the numbers 16 to 31. This
enables the use of significantly larger num-
bers than if 31 positions were to be present
on only a single ring.
However, a further advantage is associated
with this special design with two rings:
Regardless of the size of each individual
digit, it is always centred in the middle of
the window. This also applies to the single
digits 1 to 9. If the date were to consist of
two individual digits, as in a big date display, a leading
zero or a blank panel would always be visible for single-
digit numbers. This is one reason why Moser does not
favour this solution.
The date change of the Monard Date jumps forward by
one day within one second at midnight every day and can
be adjusted as required by hand via the crown depending
on the length of the month, regardless of whether the
movement itself is changing at the same time.
The ability to adjust the date backwards at any time is
also a matter of course for Moser. An intricately designed
clutch separates the movement from the adjustment
mechanism and in so doing ensures that nothing unfore-
seen occurs.
DATE ADJUSTMENT
VIA THE CROWN
THE BIG
MOSER DATE
M O N A R D D A T E 57
M E R I D I A NM E R I D I A N
M E R I D I A NM E R I D I A N
A very elegant watch with automatic movement and alter-
nating 12- and 24-hour display. The Moser Meridian com-
bines well-known and popular complications with a spe-
cial innovation: a display which changes automatically
from 12 to 24 hours on an ordinary, familiar dial.
The prominent window at the top of the dial displays a 12
in the morning of home time. At midday, this display
changes within the space of a second to read 24. Within
the home region, a different-coloured and somewhat
smaller hand of a different time zone (destination time)
is simply hidden under the normal hour hand and so
moves along with it unseen.
To display the time of another time zone (destination
time), the coloured hour hand which is normally hidden
is adjusted in steps of one hour by means of the crown in
its central position. The unique Moser Double Pull
Crown system allows the central position to be easily lo-
cated without the watch being inadvertently stopped or
the current time being changed.
MERIDIAN
The required number of hours forward or back can be set
and the coloured hand shows the corresponding time.
Home time can still be read as usual. The display in the
window which changes at noon shows whether it is morn-
ing or afternoon in the home time zone.
Thus in far-flung parts of the world it is always possible to
check home time easily in the usual way, without having
to think about whether it is AM or PM there.
With a power reserve of 72 hours, i.e. three full days, the
Moser automatic movement, with its characteristic off-
centre pocket-watch style seconds display, is one of the
longest-running models available. The solid gold rotor
transfers its energy to a highly efficient pawl winding sys-
tem, whose large barrel ensures the very long power re-
serve. The accuracy of this extraordinary watch is assured
by Moser’s characteristic interchangeable escapement.
And, naturally, it also comes with a Straumann Hair-
spring®, produced in-house, Breguet overcoil and pallet
fork and escapement wheel in hardened solid gold.
60
MERIDIAN
REFERENCE NO. 346.121-023
MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 346.121
SECOND TIME zONE DISPLAY
12- AND 24-HOUR DISPLAY
AUTOMATIC MOVEMENT
POWER RESERVE OF AT LEAST 3 DAYS WHEN FULLY WOUND
MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS
DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM
HACKING SECOND
MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT
ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®
WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL
PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF
HARDENED SOLID GOLD
SILVER-PLATED DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH
THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD
DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS
SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK
ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP
WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD FOLDING CLASPMERIDIAN
REFERENCE NO. 346.121-024
MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 346.121
SECOND TIME zONE DISPLAY
12- AND 24-HOUR DISPLAY
AUTOMATIC MOVEMENT
POWER RESERVE OF AT LEAST 3 DAYS WHEN FULLY WOUND
MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS
DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM
HACKING SECOND
MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT
ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®
WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL
PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF
HARDENED SOLID GOLD
ARDOISE SLATE DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH
THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN PLATINUM
DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS
SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK
ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP
WITH SOLID PLATINUM FOLDING CLASP
61M E R I D I A N
The Moser Meridian uses a completely new system of al-
ternating display to indicate morning (AM) and afternoon
(PM): the 24-hour slide. This is a part of a sophisticated
gear train which allows itself to move back and forth, se-
cured by the means of a Maltese cross. The slide contains
only the numbers 1, 2 and 4. The digit 2 in the centre of
the slide is used to display both 12 and 24.
This is achieved by either the digit 4 being hidden to the
right of the window in the dial, giving the representation
of ‘12’, or the slide moving to the left, hiding the 1 under
the dial, resulting in ‘24’ showing in the upper window
of the dial in the afternoon.
An ingeniously simple solution, showing the 12 hours of
morning and the same number of hours in the afternoon,
without needing to change the arrangement on the dial.
And, as with any seemingly simple solution, behind the
dial lies a highly sophisticated and complex example of
horological craftsmanship.
As you would expect from Moser, the change of display
from 12 to 24 at noon takes only a second to complete.
The watchmakers have achieved this by using a spring
which gains tension over a period of about eight hours
without affecting the workings of the rest of the move-
ment. At noon, the power of the spring is released at once
to achieve the rapid movement of the slide.
ALTERNATING 12- AND 24-HOUR DISPL AY
M E R I D I A N
DIAL
CAL. HMC 346.121
MECHANISM FOR THE 12- AND
24-HOUR DISPLAY
63
With the appearance of the Meridian model, devotees of
the H. Moser & Cie brand will no longer need to pose the
question they occasionally ask: «When will we see the
first watch with automatic winding?»
It took the master watchmakers at Moser five years before
they were ready to give the signal that a completely new
watch movement was fit to be launched on the market.
Exhaustive tests and in-depth research into principles,
materials and construction details were undertaken be-
fore the new movement could be unveiled to the public.
As always, the masterly automatic movement, developed
especially for this extraordinary watch, reveals its special
features only on close examination. The see-through sap-
phire glass back of the watch allows you to marvel at the
large, solid gold rotor as it goes about its winding work.
The energy from its movement is transferred to the barrel
by means of a pawl winding system which is consistently
effective regardless of its direction of turn. A large lubri-
cant-free ball bearing with maintenance-free ceramic
bearing balls and cantilever-mounted ratchet wheel en-
sure very low friction.
AUTOMATIC PAWL WINDING SYSTEM
M E R I D I A N
MOVEMENT
CAL. HMC 346.121
WINDING MECHANISM
PAWLS AND PAWL WHEEL
65
This has the great benefit that, when worn, the watch
continuously gains more power than it uses. This com-
bined with the extra-large barrel means that the Meridi-
an’s energy reserve when fully wound is guaranteed to be
72 hours, or three full days. If it is worn for about eight
hours a day after having stopped, it will usually regain
fully-wound status within four days of wearing.
The high efficiency of the Moser pawl winding system is
partly attributable to the fact that it is wound up by move-
ment of the rotor in either direction. One of the two
pawls turns the pawl wheel on pull, the other on push. A
torque brace is provided to ensure that the pawl does not
buckle or break under the resultant tension. The materials
of the pawls and the pawl wheel are matched and produce
minimum wear.
These technical specifications underline the exclusive so-
phistication of another elegant Moser watch, which, like
all the watches from H. Moser & Cie, does not rely on
mass-produced movement components but combines the
finest materials with the highest levels of intricacy and
functionality. Only a steel bearing ball from a standard
ball bearing and the ceramic bearing balls for the rotor
are mass-produced.
M AY UM AY U
A fine, elegant watch with a certain hint of understate-
ment: the Mayu from Moser.
The name of the watch is a tribute to Heinrich Moser’s
first wife, Charlotte Mayu. The family seat, Charlotten-
fels manor near Schaffhausen, was also named after her.
A timepiece with a decidedly elegant design: As a me-
chanical watch with a height of only 9.3 mm and with a
diameter of 38.8 mm, it is not too large for contemporary
tastes. The watchmakers at Moser have nevertheless suc-
ceeded in accommodating a large barrel in this volume.
The result is a power reserve of 80 hours, which ensures
that the watch will continue to run for at least three days
even without winding.
The harmonious design of the dial is particularly en-
hanced by the rare, large pocket watch seconds hand.
Drawing on pocket watches for its inspiration, the lower
end of this subsidiary seconds display sits as close as pos-
sible to the minute ring. This position can only be
achieved with a large movement designed specifically for
the purpose without a movement retaining ring. The
Mayu’s Cal. 321.503 movement thus exhibits an imposing
diameter of 32 mm. This corresponds quite closely to 14
lines in horological terms.
MAYU
Applied, facetted and diamond-polished indices, but also
the dial with its sun pattern ground finish, play with the
reflected sunlight.
The three-dimensional hands, which are used only in
Moser watches, are optimally adapted to the dimensions
of the watch in both length and form.
In this watch, too, the interchangeable escapement mod-
ule used for the first time by Moser offers high exclusivi-
ty. It guarantees that the watch will retain its value and
helps to reduce the time taken for the cleaning and servic-
ing required by all mechanical watches about every five
years. Another world-first is the execution of the pallet
fork and escapement wheel in hardened solid gold with
functionally optimized surfaces to minimize friction and
the associated wear.
The Mayu has a three-part case made of precious metal
with a discreetly convex sapphire glass and a see-through
sapphire glass back.
68
MAYU
REFERENCE NO. 321.503-005
MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 321.503
HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS
MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE
MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS
POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE
HACKING SECOND
MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT
ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®
WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL
PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF
HARDENED SOLID GOLD
SILVER-PLATED DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH
THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD
DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS
SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK
ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP
WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD BUCKLE
MAYU
REFERENCE NO. 321.503-012
MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 321.503
HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS
MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE
MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS
POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE
HACKING SECOND
MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT
ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®
WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL
PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF
HARDENED SOLID GOLD
RHODIUM-PLATED DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH
THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN WHITE GOLD
DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS
SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK
ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP
WITH SOLID WHITE GOLD BUCKLE
69M A Y U
71M A Y U
MAYU
REFERENCE NO. 321.503-007
MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 321.503
HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS
MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE
MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS
POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE
HACKING SECOND
MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT
ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®
WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL
PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF
HARDENED SOLID GOLD
BLACK DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH
THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD
DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS
SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK
ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP
WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD BUCKLE
MOVEMENT
CAL. HMC 321.503
MAYU
REFERENCE NO. 321.503-003
MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 321.503
HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS
MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE
MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS
POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE
HACKING SECOND
MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT
ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®
WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL
PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF
HARDENED SOLID GOLD
ARDOISE SLATE DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH
THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN PLATINUM
DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS
SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK
ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP
WITH SOLID PLATINUM BUCKLE
72
MAYU
REFERENCE NO. 321.503-015
MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 321.503
HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS
MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE
MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS
POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE
HACKING SECOND
MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT
ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®
WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL
PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF
HARDENED SOLID GOLD
LIGHT BROWN DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH
THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD
DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS
SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK
ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP
WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD BUCKLE
MAYU
REFERENCE NO. 321.503-016
MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 321.503
HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS
MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE
MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS
POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE
HACKING SECOND
MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT
ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®
WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL
PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF
HARDENED SOLID GOLD
DARK BROWN DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH
THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN WHITE GOLD
DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS
SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK
ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP
WITH SOLID WHITE GOLD BUCKLE
REFERENCE NO. 321.503-B15
BEzEL SET WITH 64 BRILLIANT-CUT DIAMONDS
REFERENCE NO. 321.503-B16
BEzEL SET WITH 64 BRILLIANT-CUT DIAMONDS
73M A Y U
MAYU
REFERENCE NO. 321.503-B14
MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 321.503
HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS
MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE
MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS
POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE
HACKING SECOND
MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT
ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®
WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL
PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF
HARDENED SOLID GOLD
LIGHT ROSE-COLOUR MOTHER-OF-PEARL DIAL
THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN WHITE GOLD
84 TOP WESSELTON BRILLIANT-CUT DIAMONDS
DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS
SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK
ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP
WITH SOLID WHITE GOLD BUCKLE
MAYU
REFERENCE NO. 321.503-B13
MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 321.503
HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS
MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE
MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS
POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE
HACKING SECOND
MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT
ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®
WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL
PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF
HARDENED SOLID GOLD
TAHITIAN MOTHER-OF-PEARL DIAL
THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD
84 TOP WESSELTON BRILLIANT-CUT DIAMONDS
DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS
SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK
ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP
WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD BUCKLE
MAYU
REFERENCE NO. 321.503-B05
MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 321.503
HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS
MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE
MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS
POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE
HACKING SECOND
MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT
ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®
WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL
PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF
HARDENED SOLID GOLD
SILVER-PLATED DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH
THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD
64 TOP WESSELTON BRILLIANT-CUT DIAMONDS
DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS
SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK
ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP
WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD BUCKLE
74
MAYU
REFERENCE NO. 325.503-010
MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 325.503
HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS
MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE
MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS
POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE
HACKING SECOND
MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT
WITH STRAUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING
PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF
SOLID WHITE GOLD
FUMÉ DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH
THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN PALLADIUM
DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS
SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK
ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP
WITH SOLID PALLADIUM BUCKLE
The wheel train of the Mayu watches relies on centuries-
old proven principles for its basic design. A couple of de-
tails: an eight-day wheel is included between the barrel
and the great wheel, because the great wheel rotates under
the barrel. The third wheel and the fourth wheel are ar-
ranged beneath a common bridge, which permits close
tolerances in the interests of high efficiency.
The staff of the fourth wheel carries the seconds hand of
the subsidiary seconds display on the dial side. At the
same time, the fourth wheel also acts as the mechanical
interface with the escapement module.
By pulling it out into the second position, the winding
crown of the Mayu is also used to adjust the hands. To
enable this to be done accurately to the second, the watch
also has a hacking second.
As the crown is pulled out, a stop spring is positioned
against the weight compensation
screws of the balance and holds it
securely. This causes the watch to
stop, although the balance spring
remains under tension. When the
crown is pushed back into the nor-
mal position, the stop spring re-
leases the balance once more and
the watch starts to run immedi-
ately.
To show the power reserve availa-
ble at any time, Mayu watches
with a see-through back have a display on the movement
side. This indicates the fully-wound state in the «UP»
position and, after three days, it will have covered about
two-thirds of the distance in the «DOWN» direction.
WHEELS, PINIONS AND LEVERS HACKING SECOND
POWER RESERVE
DISPLAY
MAYU WHEEL TRAIN
M A Y U 75
H E N RY D O U B L E H A I R S P R I N GH E N RY D O U B L E H A I R S P R I N G
An exceptional tonneau watch with a Straumann Double
Hairspring: the Henry Double Hairspring from Moser
with an exclusive rectangular-shaped movement.
An exemplary innovation for the oscillating system, the
most complicated component of the mechanical watch,
gives this movement its particular charisma. The legen-
dary elegance of a Moser watch is combined here with a
unique escapement designed to exclude gravitational er-
ror. Two Straumann balance springs manufactured as a
matched pair, which oscillate against one another and by
so doing prevent the gravitational error of an escapement
from occurring in the first place. Self-compensating and
antimagnetic, of course. This system requires mastery of
the manufacture of the balance springs – from the melt-
ing of the alloy to the finished spring – with in-house
technology and precision. This prerequisite is met within
Moser Group AG with utmost dedication.
HENRY DOUBLE HAIRSPRING
A new escapement and a superlative horological achieve-
ment, which naturally does not sacrifice the interchange-
ability that is typical of Moser escapements.
Set in a well-proportioned case measuring 44.1 mm long
by 38.6 mm wide by 10.4 mm high, this latest masterpiece
of the watchmaker’s art from Moser has a power reserve
of at least four days when fully wound. Exclusive and
unique to Moser, the execution of the pallet fork and the
escapement wheel in hardened, solid white gold is also
retained as a distinguishing feature of the Moser escape-
ment with Straumann Double Hairspring.
78
HENRY DOUBLE HAIRSPRING
REFERENCE NO. 324.607-002
MOSER RECTANGULAR-SHAPED MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 324.607
HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS
LARGE-VOLUME BARREL, MIN. 4-DAY POWER RESERVE
MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS
POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE
HACKING SECOND
MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT
WITH STRAUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING
PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF
SOLID WHITE GOLD
RHODIUM-PLATED DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH
THREE-PART, TONNEAU CASE IN WHITE GOLD
SAPPHIRE GLASS, DISCREETLY CONVEX IN 2 DIRECTIONS
SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK
ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP
WITH SOLID WHITE GOLD BUCKLE
HENRY DOUBLE HAIRSPRING
REFERENCE NO. 324.607-004
MOSER RECTANGULAR-SHAPED MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 324.607
HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS
LARGE-VOLUME BARREL, MIN. 4-DAY POWER RESERVE
MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS
POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE
HACKING SECOND
MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT
WITH STRAUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING
PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF
SOLID WHITE GOLD
SILVER-PLATED DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH
THREE-PART, TONNEAU CASE IN ROSE GOLD
SAPPHIRE GLASS, DISCREETLY CONVEX IN 2 DIRECTIONS
SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK
ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP
WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD BUCKLE
79H E N R Y D O U B L E H A I R S P R I N G
HENRY DOUBLE HAIRSPRING
REFERENCE NO. 324.607-006
MOSER RECTANGULAR-SHAPED MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 324.607
HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS
LARGE-VOLUME BARREL, MIN. 4-DAY POWER RESERVE
MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS
POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE
HACKING SECOND
MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT
WITH STRAUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING
PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF
SOLID WHITE GOLD
ARDOISE SLATE DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH
THREE-PART, TONNEAU CASE IN PLATINUM
SAPPHIRE GLASS, DISCREETLY CONVEX IN 2 DIRECTIONS
SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK
ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP
WITH SOLID PLATINUM BUCKLE
HENRY DOUBLE HAIRSPRING
REFERENCE NO. 324.607-005
MOSER RECTANGULAR-SHAPED MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 324.607
HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS
LARGE-VOLUME BARREL, MIN. 4-DAY POWER RESERVE
MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS
POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE
HACKING SECOND
MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT
WITH STRAUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING
PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF
SOLID WHITE GOLD
BLACK DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH
THREE-PART, TONNEAU CASE IN RED GOLD
SAPPHIRE GLASS, DISCREETLY CONVEX IN 2 DIRECTIONS
SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK
ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP
WITH SOLID RED GOLD BUCKLE
MOVEMENT
CAL. HMC 324.607
81H E N R Y D O U B L E H A I R S P R I N G
82
HENRY DOUBLE HAIRSPRING
REFERENCE NO. 324.607-003
MOSER RECTANGULAR-SHAPED MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 324.607
HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS
LARGE-VOLUME BARREL, MIN. 4-DAY POWER RESERVE
MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS
POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE
HACKING SECOND
MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT
WITH STRAUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING
PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF
SOLID WHITE GOLD
FUMÉ DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH
THREE-PART, TONNEAU CASE IN PALLADIUM
SAPPHIRE GLASS, DISCREETLY CONVEX IN 2 DIRECTIONS
SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK
ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP
WITH SOLID PALLADIUM BUCKLE
H E N R Y D O U B L E H A I R S P R I N G
Using an escapement with Straumann Double Hair-
spring, which is installed in all of the Henry models,
Moser has succeeded in preventing the gravitational error
before it even occurs. The result is more stable accuracy
in all positions.
In this escapement, two balance springs manufactured as
a matched pair are arranged so that they oscillate against
one another. This causes the centres of gravity of the two
springs to move outwards and inwards on opposing sym-
metrical paths as they oscillate. The cumulative centre of
gravity of the two springs thus remains at the centre of the
arbor at all times, and as such has no negative influence
on the accuracy of the watch.
STR AUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING
Clearly, producing such a complicated escapement mod-
ule requires mastery of the whole balance spring produc-
tion process – from melting the material right through to
completing the finished spring. Together with its associ-
ate company Precision Engineering AG, H. Moser & Cie
developed the Straumann Hairspring® based on the for-
mula used by the inventor of Nivarox, Prof. Dr. h.c. Re-
inhard Straumann. This ensures the necessary homoge-
neity of the material’s mechanical properties.
Furthermore, the springs are manufactured so consist-
ently that they are even able to ensure uniform compen-
sation for any elasticity in the presence of temperature
fluctuations. This ensures that the centre of gravity does
not wander from the centre of the arbor even when the
temperature changes.
SCREW BALANCE WITH
STRAUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING
83
ESCAPEMENT MODULE WITH
STRAUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING
L I M I T E D C O L L E C TO R S E D I T I O N S
86
THE L IMITED COLLECTORS EDIT IONS FROM MOSER
Limited editions of individual watches symbolize a spe-
cial event, particular techniques or unusual horological
solutions. This is also true of Moser.
It is now more than five years since the Moser Perpetual 1,
set with 76 brilliant-cut diamonds, was introduced to mark
the international relaunch of the H. Moser & Cie brand in
2005. With its specially formed bezel, it lends itself per-
fectly to mounting with selected diamonds. This watch,
incidentally, also saw the introduction of the now legen-
dary «Flash Calendar».
With the Moser Perpetual 1 Golden Edition, the Moser
master watchmakers have shown in 2011 what they are
capable of achieving. A movement almost entirely in
18-carat gold with the world’s only fully functional dia-
mond end stones in a shock-absorber. Dial, hands, pallet
fork and escapement wheel – all in solid gold. A truly
superlative watch.
Other collectors editions include the Monard and Mayu
models with genuine «grand feu» enamel dials. This is an
enamelling skill that appeared almost to have died out.
The watchmakers at Moser were determined to create a
limited edition before mastery of this technique of coat-
ing metal with vitreous enamel in a furnace is lost.
The Zarenadler (Imperial eagle) Mayu came about for a
different reason: On the one hand there was a desire to
refer to the roots of the company in Imperial Russia, and
on the other hand Moser’s master engravers wished to
demonstrate that they were still able to carry out the ex-
quisite art of relief engraving in a masterly manner. For
once, the sapphire glass back of a Mayu model was re-
placed by a solid gold case back, which depicts the two-
headed Russian Imperial eagle set with brilliant-cut dia-
monds.
The yellow gold Mayu with ivory-coloured lacquered dial
is also a special edition. Here the authentic, subsidiary
pocket watch seconds hand of all Mayu and Perpetual
models is brought to the fore. It is positioned next to the
minute ring, as in the historic examples of pocket watch-
es. This is indeed a rarity, because it calls for a specially
designed movement without the customary movement
retaining ring.
MOSER PERPETUAL 1
REFERENCE NO. 341.501-B04
LIMITED EDITION OF 200 PIECES
MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 341.501
HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS
DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE
MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS
POWER RESERVE DISPLAY
PERPETUAL FLASH CALENDAR DISPLAY
CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACKWARDS AT ANY TIME
VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT
DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM
HACKING SECOND
SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS
MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT
ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®
WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL
PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF
HARDENED SOLID GOLD
SILVER-PLATED DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH
THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD
SET WITH 76 TOP WESSELTON BRILLIANT-CUT DIAMONDS
DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS
SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK
ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP
WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD FOLDING CLASP
87L I M I T E D E D I T I O N S
MOSER PERPETUAL 1 GOLDEN EDITION
REFERENCE NO. 341.101-008
LIMITED EDITION OF 100 PIECES
MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 341.101
HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS
DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE
MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS
POWER RESERVE DISPLAY
PERPETUAL FLASH CALENDAR DISPLAY
CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACKWARDS AT ANY
TIME VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT
DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM
HACKING SECOND
SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS
MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT
WITH STRAUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING
PLATE AND BRIDGES IN 18-CARAT ROSE GOLD
2 FUNCTIONAL DIAMOND END STONES
IN THE INCABLOC SHOCK-ABSORBER
WHITE SAPPHIRE JEWEL BEARING UNDER THE END STONE
PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF
HARDENED SOLID GOLD
SOLID GOLD FUMÉ DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH
HANDS AND INDICES IN 18-CARAT ROSE GOLD
THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD
DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS
SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK
ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP
WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD FOLDING CLASP
88
MAYU
REFERENCE NO. 321.503-L02
LIMITED EDITION OF 50 PIECES
MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 321.503
HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS
MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE
MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS
POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE
HACKING SECOND
MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT
ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®
WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL
PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF
HARDENED SOLID GOLD
WHITE ENAMEL DIAL
THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN WHITE GOLD
DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS
SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK
ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP
WITH SOLID WHITE GOLD BUCKLE
SOLD OUT
MONARD
REFERENCE NO. 343.505-L11
LIMITED EDITION OF 200 PIECES
MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 343.505
HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS
DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE
MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS
POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE
HACKING SECOND
SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS
MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT
ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®
WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL
PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF
HARDENED SOLID GOLD
BLACK ENAMEL DIAL
THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD
DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS
SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK
ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP
WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD BUCKLE
SOLD OUT
MAYU
REFERENCE NO. 321.503-004
LIMITED EDITION OF 50 PIECES
MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 321.503
HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS
MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE
MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS
POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE
HACKING SECOND
MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT
ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®
WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL
PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF
HARDENED SOLID GOLD
IVORY-COLOURED LACQUERED DIAL
THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN YELLOW GOLD
DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS
SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK
ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP
WITH SOLID YELLOW GOLD BUCKLE
SOLD OUT
MAYU
REFERENCE NO. 322.504-LB04
LIMITED EDITION OF 50 PIECES
MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 322.504
HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS
MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE
MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS
HACKING SECOND
MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT
ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®
WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL
PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF
HARDENED SOLID GOLD
BLACK DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH
THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD
SET WITH 64 TOP WESSELTON BRILLIANT-CUT DIAMONDS
DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS
HAND-ENGRAVED SOLID GOLD CASE BACK WITH
25 TOP WESSELTON BRILLIANT-CUT DIAMONDS
ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP
WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD BUCKLE
89L I M I T E D E D I T I O N S
HAND-ENGRAVED TWO-HEADED IMPERIAL EAGLE
T E C H N I C A L D E TA I L S
92
TEAM SPIRIT AND SPECIALISTS
Heinrich Moser’s visionary views are recorded in many of
his letters. They also contain principles which remain
valid to this day.
If you want to build the best watches, you must go to the
best suppliers for the individual components. Only these
specialist, whose knowledge has been passed down
through the generations, are actually in a position to
transform their craftsmanship into real watch parts. Only
by working with them, in their environment, with their
networks and their particular strengths, are such peak
performances still achievable.
That is certainly one of the reasons why
Heinrich Moser’s watchmaking business
was already established in Le Locle in 1828,
and why most components are still made in
the Swiss Jura.
But there is also a machine room at the headquarters in
Neuhausen near the Rhine Falls, home to the top
specialists in the production of the finest and most
accurate precision components. Technologies, tools,
mechanisms and processes are developed here that stretch
technology to its very limits. This expertise and these
processes are then passed on to the traditional supplier
for incorporation into its series production. It is only in
this way and in close cooperation with these specialists
that H. Moser & Cie is today in a position to accomplish
true innovations and world-firsts for the benefit of its
customers all around the globe.
H. Moser & Cie has no aspirations to be a manufactory.
Nevertheless, a great deal of horological know-how and
technological expertise exist in the Moser Group, so that
the Moser movements can be described justifiably as pure
manufactory movements. The watches themselves also
merit manufactory status, because they are assembled by
hand.
In view of the extreme dimensions and tolerances, the
individual parts of the watches are produced by machine
in most cases. Concessions would otherwise have to be
made in the quality of the movements. This would not be
compatible with the present-day opportunities, and not at
all with the ambitions of H. Moser & Cie.
GREAT WHEEL
WITH STAFF AND PINION
THE UNIQUE WINDING GEAR TRAIN
FROM MOSER WITH CONICAL WHEELS
0 1 2
Another world-first can be
found exclusively in the
Moser watches of the new
era: the Double Pull
Crown (DPC) mechanism.
DPC denotes the double
pull on the crown re-
quired in this mechanism
in order to move from
winding to adjustment of
the hands.
The intermediate position
for adjustment of the date
is relatively difficult to
«sense» with the custom-
ary detent function in all
watches without DPC. As
often as not, the crown is
pulled out too far, and the
time is then adjusted un-
intentionally instead of
the date.
The DPC mechanism patented by Moser can be found in
all Moser watches with additional displays and ensures
that merely the position for date adjustment, for instance,
is reached by pulling out the crown once until it stops.
Only by then releasing the crown briefly, if necessary by
giving it a light tap, and pulling it out once more until it
stops is the crown able to move to the position for adjust-
ing the hands.
Errors when adjusting the date or additional displays are
now a thing of the past.
The master watchmakers at Moser have perfected even
the smallest details of a mechanical watch.
DOUBLE PULL CROWN ( DPC) MECHANISM
THREE POSITIONS OF
THE WINDING CROWN
DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM
93T E C H N I C A L D E T A I L S
THE STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING®
95T E C H N I C A L D E T A I L S
The consistent oscillation of the balance spring, in con-
junction with the balance, is solely responsible for the
precise running and the accuracy of the watch. The Moser
development engineers have accordingly devoted a high
degree of attention to it. Working closely with its associ-
ate company, Precision Engineering AG, and drawing on
the know-how of Institut Straumann AG, the original
formula and technology of the legendary Nivarox mate-
rial have been reviewed. It was Prof. Dr. h.c. Reinhard
Straumann – the grandfather of our present Board mem-
ber, Dr. h.c. Thomas Straumann – who in 1931 developed
a fracture-resistant, self-compensating, corrosion-free
and antimagnetic alloy consisting of seven elements,
and applied for a patent for this invention.
The patent describes the first concrete formulation, which
exhibits the desired characteristics and also finds an ap-
plication in watches as a balance spring material. It is still
in use today, in slightly modified form, in practically all
high-quality, volume-produced movements with a me-
chanical oscillating system. A few years ago, Precision
Engineering AG, working jointly with H. Moser & Cie,
installed its own, complete production line, from melting
of the alloy to the finished escapement system.
THE PATENTS
FOR THE NIVAROX MATERIAL
OF REINHARD STRAUMANN
HAMMERING THE GLOWING
NIVAROX MATERIAL
SAWING THE INGOT
CRUCIBLE WITH
PE3000 NIVAROX MELT
All escapement modules from H. Moser & Cie are
equipped exclusively with an in-house Straumann Hair-
spring®. In tribute to its inventor, the brand name Strau-
mann Hairspring® now benefits from international pro-
tection.
The precise combination of all the highest-grade materi-
als in the smelting charge and the processing of the raw
ingot with a diameter of about 20 cm and a weight of 80
kg into a wire with a diameter which is thinner than a
human hair demand technological expertise acquired
over the generations and the very best tools. Yet only the
final homogeneity of the wire and its ultra-precise rolling
from a round shape into a flat strip can provide the condi-
tions necessary for balance springs that are sufficiently
accurate for use in chronometers, self-compensating and
antimagnetic. The wire for the Straumann Hairspring®
springs is thus flat-rolled to an astounding accuracy of
0.1 thousandth of a millimetre.
And, once again, it is the skilled craftsmen and -women
who manage to thread four of these unbelievably thin
wires on to a tool, wind them into a spring assembly, treat
it in a high-vacuum furnace, and then separate it again to
produce the finished balance springs.
The régleuses at H. Moser & Cie then rivet the metal ring
on its inside, bend the Breguet overcoil by hand with
amazing precision, secure the outer end, and thus round
off their contribution to the many hundreds of processes
that go into making a balance spring.
FINISHED STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®
WITH BREGUET OVERCOIL
96
ULTRA HIGH PRECISION ROLLING
OF THE PE3000 NIVAROX MATERIAL
WINDING THE 4 STRIPS INTO A
SPRING ASSEMBLY
The watchmakers at Moser have concerned themselves
from the outset with innovation combined with high cus-
tomer benefit. In the watches of the new era, this finds
expression in one component in particular: the escape-
ment module that is interchangeable as a unit. This was
developed with a view to reducing the time taken for ad-
justment when cleaning and servicing the watch about
every 5 years. The watchmaker concerned removes the
complete module, cleans and oils the rest of the move-
ment and installs an already cleaned and adjusted mod-
ule. Job done.
At the same time, the escapement module itself is opti-
mized in line with the latest knowledge. There are no
longer any temperamental indices, for example. Adjust-
ment of the oscillating frequency of the balance is per-
formed via the cross-
slotted steel screws
around the periphery
of the balance. To
prevent these from
moving of their own
accord due to vibra-
tions, a slot has been made through the screw thread. As
a result, the screw is constantly under spring pressure and
is secured in this way. Just how difficult this is to manu-
facture will be appreciated when the diameter of the
screw holes is taken into consideration: a tiny 0.35 mm.
T E C H N I C A L D E T A I L S 97
INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT MODULE
The complete balance is a traditional screw balance with
weight compensation screws made of white gold and a
driver ellipse made of synthetic ruby; this is an aesthetic
work of art of a special kind in its own right. The materi-
als used in the balance and the balance spring are
matched to one another in such a way that fluctuations
in temperature have no noticeable effects on the accuracy
of the watch.
Since the balance has a relative-
ly high mass, it is protected
from shocks. The balance staff
has high-precision, roller-bur-
nished conical pivots and is car-
ried in a bearing with the capac-
ity to yield in the presence of
shocks and thus prevents frac-
ture of the pivots, which are
only 0.08 mm thick.
SPRING SLOT FOR
THE ADJUSTING SCREW
B A L A N C E W I T H P L A T E , E L L I P S E
A N D S T R A U M A N N H A I R S P R I N G ®
INTERCHANGEABLE
ESCAPEMENT MODULE
A further important consideration for the accuracy is the
facility to adjust the pallet fork very precisely in conjunc-
tion with the escapement wheel. For this purpose, too,
the people at Moser have come up with something new:
the dragon lever.
This stop lever is supported in two eccentric screws, by
means of which the stop surfaces can be positioned very
precisely in relation to the pallet fork. Since the pallet
fork is made of gold and the dragon lever is made of brass,
any vibrations in conjunction with stopping are well
damped. The eccentrics are only accessible from below
via a slot, so they are no longer capable of adjustment
once the escapement module has been installed in the
movement.
Given all this horological love for detail, it is no surprise
to find that the balance spring is formed with a Breguet
overcoil. This overcoil is the only one to provide reliable
assurance that the centre of gravity of the spiral spring
will not be displaced as it oscillates, thereby creating un-
equal oscillation periods in different positions.
The pallet fork and escapement wheel are manufactured
by Moser from gold using a patented process. This offers
the particular advantage that the vertical working sur-
faces are generally executed with a glass-smooth finish.
The friction between the synthetic ruby escape pallets
and the club teeth of the escape-
ment wheel is reduced to a min-
imum in this way. Moser repeat-
edly used gold wheels in its
movements in the past.
THE DRAGON LEVER FOR ADJUSTING THE ESCAPEMENT TRAVEL
GOLD ESCAPEMENT WHEEL
WITH STEEL PINION
98
MOVEMENT SIDE OF THE MOSER PERPETUAL 1
GOLDEN EDITION
WITH SOLID GOLD BRIDGES,
HAND-BEVELLED EDGES
AND SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS
THE CR AFTSMAN’S ART
The watchmaker’s art manifests itself not only through
technically accomplished solutions but also through the
individual features of the component parts that are
worked out with loving attention to detail. One example
of this is the sun pattern ground finish on the plates of all
Moser movements that is only visible to the watchmaker.
This is only revealed when the watch is completely dis-
mantled into its individual parts on the watchmaker’s
workbench.
A large number of Moser watches of the new era actually
feature a see-through sapphire glass back, through which
the beauty of the movements can be appreciated from the
outside. Bevelled and polished edges are visible in this
way, and the jewels sparkle in the light.
99
DIAL SIDE
CAL. HMC 343.505
CRAFTSMANSHIP
IN ITS FINEST FORM
T E C H N I C A L D E T A I L S
The dual ground stripes on the bridges that are so typical
of Moser and the fine gold engravings are as obvious as
the tireless oscillations of the screw balance.
Another entirely traditional Mo-
ser feature is the arrangement of
the third wheel and the fourth
wheel together beneath the same
train-wheel bridge, which exhibits
the typical convex form around
the jewel bearings. Also present on
the train-wheel bridge is the Hein-
rich Moser seal in gold, which
guarantees authenticity both in the
historic watches and in the watches
of the new era.
The exquisite relief engravings on
the solid gold case backs of our
limited collectors editions are testi-
mony to the artistry of individual
watchmakers at H. Moser & Cie,
masters of a craft which is now
only rarely seen due to its sheer
complexity.
MOSER GROUND STRIPES
AND GOLD ENGRAVINGS
PERFECTION IN RELIEF ENGRAVING
ON THE SOLID GOLD CASE BACKS
THE MOSER SEAL ON THE MONARD
TRAIN-WHEEL BRIDGE
100
FINISHING
The finishing process only uses traditional craft methods.
No machine can produce a truly beautifully polished
chamfered edge on the bridges and plates. Manual work
is just as necessary here as it is for the polished finish and
the brushed surfaces of the case or the sun pattern ground
finish under the barrel. The typical Moser ground stripes
on the plates are also created using purely manual work.
The Swiss watchmaker’s art in its finest form in the
watches and movements of H. Moser & Cie is the result of
this unremitting quest for perfection.
SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH
UNDER THE BARREL
ONE OF THE TWO DIAMOND END STONES
IN THE MOSER PERPETUAL 1 GOLDEN EDITION
T E C H N I C A L D E T A I L S 101
TIMELINE
1730 Johannes Moser, grandfather of Heinrich Moser, is born in Schaffhausen. After an apprenticeship as a watch-
maker, he assumes the hereditary and honorary position of town watchmaker. He later becomes a Cantonal
Councillor.
1760 Erhard Moser, father of Heinrich Moser, is born in Schaffhausen. He succeeds his father in the position of town
watchmaker and is himself a member of the Cantonal Council.
1805 Johann Heinrich Moser is born on 12 December. He learns the traditional watchmaker’s craft from his father
between 1820 and 1824.
1824 Heinrich Moser continues his training in Le Locle, Switzerland, in the master watchmakers’ workshops in the
town. He rapidly gains respect as a skilled watchmaker, and he starts a small business to supply spare parts.
It only takes Moser about eighteen months to develop a reputation as an outstandingly talented specialist, and
he receives offers of work from Italy and Paris.
1826 Moser works on his own account for the first time by building clocks into cases and pieces of furniture.
1827 The prospects of good business draw Moser to St. Petersburg in Russia. After an adventurous journey by horse-
drawn coach and by sea, he nearly runs out of money. He starts work as a watchmaker in the local workshops.
1828 Moser opens the trading company H. Moser & Co. in St. Petersburg. This marks the hour of inception of what
would eventually grown into such a successful brand. Moser’s business flourishes, which can certainly be at-
tributed to the fact that the watches sold by him are supplied only in high quality. Not a single watch is allowed
to pass over the shop counter until it has been inspected personally by him or by one of his representatives.
1829 In order to maintain this claim to superior quality, Moser establishes a watch factory in Le Locle to produce
watches exclusively for his businesses in Europe and Russia.
1848 Moser, by now a wealthy merchant and watch manufacturer, decides to return to Schaffhausen with his family.
From this point on, he sees his true life’s work as the transformation of Schaffhausen, a very quiet town in those
days, into a lively and attractive industrial location. At the same time, he builds the magnificent Charlottenfels
country manor house for his family.
T I M E L I N E 103
1851 Moser completes the construction of a canal on the Rhine, which supplies the water to drive a turbine generat-
ing about 80 hp.
1853 In a joint venture with other Schaffhausen personalities, Moser establishes Schweizerische Waggonfabrik bei
Schaffhausen (Swiss Wagonworks at Schaffhausen), which later changes its name to Schweizerische Indus-
triegesellschaft (SIG) Neuhausen (Swiss Industrial Company Neuhausen). Moser is a co-founder of the Schaff-
hausen–Winterthur railway line, also in 1853. Furthermore, he opens a workshop for the manufacture of watch
cases in Schaffhausen.
1860 The company archive of Jaeger-LeCoultre from this year lists Heinrich Moser as a customer. Over time, he
sources up to 64 different calibres, including 24 complications. The uncompromising quality of his watches
gains him access as a supplier to the Imperial Court, royal households and the armed forces. Within just a few
years, he is selling watches as far afield as Japan, China, Persia but also to the West, in Paris and New York.
1863/64 Heinrich Moser embarks on the construction of the largest Swiss dam on the Rhine, to supply neighbouring
industrial companies with inexpensive energy via a power transmission system. This hydroelectric power sta-
tion marks the start of the industrial age in Schaffhausen.
1868 Moser supports F. A. Jones in the foundation of the International Watch Company (IWC) by providing
premises and energy to drive the machines.
1874 Heinrich Moser dies on 23 October. His will names his second wife, Fanny Moser, as the heiress of all his busi-
ness interests.
1877 Fanny Moser sells the entire Russian trading operation to its managing director Winterhalter. The watch fac-
tory in Le Locle goes to Paul Girard. The contracts of sale stipulate that all successor companies must continue
to operate in perpetuity under the registered brand names of H. Moser & Cie or Heinrich Moser & Co.
1917 The Russian October Revolution completely eradicates the private watch market in the country that is domi-
nated by the Swiss watchmakers. The last of the Swiss Directors of the Moser company return to Switzerland
totally expropriated in early 1918. The business in Le Locle is unaffected by the political turmoil and carries on
as before, attempting to compensate for the loss of the Russian markets through increased exports to other
countries.
104
Favourite Watch with Complication • 2006
MOSER PERPETUAL 1
1920 The State-owned «Central Watch Repair Workshop» in Moscow is formed from the remains of the Moser watch
businesses.
1953 Wristwatch production in Le Locle is expanded, and the proportion of pocket watches produced decreases
steadily. Some of the watches also bear the name «Henry Moser», in spite of this being in breach of the 1877
agreements.
1973 H. Moser & Co. is mentioned as a manufacturer of precision lever escapement watches and special watches,
predominantly in 18-carat gold and in cases set with precious stones. The quartz watch crisis that is widespread
in the Swiss watch industry also affects the business in Le Locle.
1979 The watch factory in Le Locle becomes part of the Dixi Mechanique Group and trades as «Hy Moser & Cie».
2002 The original brand of the founder, «H. Moser & Cie», is once more registered internationally by Dr. Jürgen
Lange. The Moser Schaffhausen AG watch company is launched jointly with representatives of the Moser fam-
ily. The great-grandson of Heinrich Moser, Roger Nicholas Balsiger, is today Honorary Chairman of Moser
Group AG.
2005 To mark the bicentenary of Heinrich Moser’s birth, the successor company Moser Schaffhausen AG, under the
H. Moser & Cie brand, once again launches a range of watches that are faithful to the legacy of the founding
father on the international watch arena.
2006 H. Moser & Cie introduces its four watch ranges, Moser Perpetual 1, Monard Date, Monard and Mayu, to a
broad public for the first time at «Baselworld 2006».
2006 Montre de l’année 2006 – 2nd prize for the Moser Perpetual 1. In the opinion of the professional jury of the
special-interest watch magazine, Montre Passion: «The classic case of the Perpetual 1 / Flash Calendar from
Moser conceals a highly innovative mechanical movement».
2006 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève – Prix de la Montre Compliquée. In November 2006, H. Moser & Cie wins
one of the most highly coveted prizes of the Swiss horological industry. The Moser Perpetual 1 takes first place
in the complicated watches category.
T I M E L I N E 105
2007 «Baselworld 2007» is the venue where H. Moser & Cie introduces the Straumann Hairspring®, developed
jointly over several years with its associate company Precision Engineering AG, Schaffhausen, to an interna-
tional specialist audience.
2007 The new Henry Double Hairspring watch line, a tonneau watch with the revolutionary double hairspring es-
capement from Moser and a specially designed movement, is presented at «Baselworld 2007».
2007 Palladium, an extremely rare precious metal with a brilliantly radiant white lustre, also embraces the realm of
watches from H. Moser & Cie. The Mayu Palladium model is presented to the public.
2007 Moser Group AG is formed from Moser Schaffhausen AG. All the associate companies are now united under
a single roof. Moser Schaffhausen AG, Precision Engineering AG and MSG AG Manufacturing Support
Group together guarantee the independence, the considerable public success and the substantial growth of
the H. Moser & Cie brand.
2008 The H. Moser & Cie brand celebrates its 180th anniversary.
2008 The Mayu Black Pearl and Mayu White Pearl with mother-of-pearl dials and elegant stingray leather straps are
launched.
2008 The Mayu Palladium is equipped with the Straumann Double Hairspring escapement with capement wheel in
hardened white gold. An external indication of this is provided by the new colour used for the dial.
2009 Moser Group AG continues to invest in the verticalization of production for its group members. Around 70
jobs have now been created and an in-house production facility has been set up.
2009 In view of the great success of the highly elegant fumé dial, the Henry and Monard models are now made avail-
able in this design with a brilliant white palladium case with Straumann Double Hairspring escapement.
2009 A reproduction of the original book dating back to 1875 on the life of Heinrich Moser is produced in an exclusive
private edition. The book, which was written shortly after his death and which is rarely to be found in the original,
is now presented in a boxed set together with the translation into other languages, in modern typography.
106
T I M E L I N E 107
2010 The multi-million investments by the Moser Group in expertise, longevity and growth are largely completed.
The Moser Group emerges strongly from the international financial crisis. H. Moser & Cie acts as principal
sponsor of a major equestrian event for the first time. The 4-star CSI Basel 2010 tournament achieves a spec-
tacular debut with outstanding international competitors and an exclusive programme of associated events.
2010 The Moser Perpetual Moon is unveiled. Another superlative watch with a moon phase display which can be set
accurately to the minute and can run over 1,000 years without adjustment.
2011 The CSI in Basel, the world’s best-endowed indoor show jumping competition, is awarded 5-star status, not least
because of the sponsorship of H. Moser & Cie. Moser celebrates this with the launch of the Monard Marrone.
2011 The Perpetual 1 Golden Edition is premiered. With solid gold fumé dial, gold hands and a movement with
solid gold plate and bridges, together with the interchangeable Straumann Double Hairspring escapement, it
releases a torrent of emotions, the high point being the world’s first functional diamond end stone in a shock-
absorber.
2011 The Moser Perpetual 1 Fumé Palladium is the first watch with a perpetual calendar combining the advantages
of the double hairspring escapement with the complexity of an elegant, quintessentially Moser watch.
2012 The first Moser watch with automatic movement is presented at «Baselworld 2012». With its innovative second
time zone, the Meridian range again underlines Moser’s expression of elegance and throws light on the meaning
of its maxim «passionately different».
COPYRIGHT 2012 BY MOSER SCHAFFHAUSEN AG
ALL PRODUCTS SHOWN OR MENTIONED IN THIS CATALOGUE MAY BE PROTECTED BY COPYRIGHT.
FOR BRANDS WHICH DO NOT BELONG TO MOSER SCHAFFHAUSEN AG, THE COPYRIGHT IS PROPERTY OF THE CORRESPONDING COMPANIES.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS AND AVAILABILITY OF ALL MODELS ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE
MANFRED DUBACH, KATHARINA LOCHS, MARCEL STUDER,
SAMMLUNG HOMBERGER, CARL J. KOCH, STADTARCHIV SCHAFFHAUSEN
MANFRED DUBACH, KATHARINA LOCHS
DUBACH.DIGITAL GMBH, GÄCHLINGEN
DUBACH.DIGITAL GMBH, GÄCHLINGEN
SONDEREGGER DRUCK AG, WEINFELDEN
SCHUMACHER AG, SCHMITTEN
MOSER SCHAFFHAUSEN AG
MEMBER OF MOSER GROUP AG
RUNDBUCKSTRASSE 10, CH-8212 NEUHAUSEN AM RHEINFALL, SWITzERLAND
T +41 52 674 00 50, WWW.H-MOSER.COM
Pictures
Art Direction
Layout
Digital Image Processing
Bookbinding