Micko Scale ReproductionsMe-109 Gustav

Photo by Joe Balabon

Thank you for purchasing the Messerschmitt Bf 109 model. This is the nextmodel in a “Fun Scale” series of aircraft designed for optimum flight performance whileretaining sport scale appearance. The design layout is similar to a large free flight model;light weight construction and stringers are the main features. The design allows themodeler to modify the build according to their likes, in that one can “sheet” theappropriate areas on the fuse and wing as well as add flaps and other scale touches. If themodeler decides to add sheeting, it is recommended to use from 1/32” to 3/32” balsa or2mm Depron. The prototype model features retracts and flaps with an all up flight weightof 8.5-10 pounds. With that weight the wing loading is 21-24 ounces per square foot. Theconstruction techniques require intermediate skills but the airplane’s flight characteristicsmake it a good first scale subject. If it has been a long time since you have built a model,or if this is your first build, you may wish to purchase and practice on a Guillows orsimilar free flight model, as the construction style is similar. But before we build, let’shave some history.

If your “Blitzbau” (lightning build) doesn’t allow time for delays in startingconstruction, you may wish to skip this step. But when you bring your bird out for thefirst flights, you may want to be able to impress the “Top Guns” with someMesserschmitt trivia.

The Me-109 was designed by Willy Messerschmitt around 1933 for a ReichAviation Ministry (RLM) request for a short range interceptor. Willy was all butblackballed from entering his design due to a feud with the director of RLM, Erhard

Milch. Despite these issues, Willy forged ahead and using many of the design features ofthe Me-108, produced the first prototype Me-109. Oddly enough, this aircraft was firstpowered with a Rolls-Royce engine. Soon a Jumo engine was mounted and she was thenan all German design. Eventually winning the design contest, the 109 forged her steel inthe Spanish Civil War, where she fought the little Russian fighter, the I-16 Rata. The 109completely outclassed the little Soviet fighter and was still outclassing Russian designswhen operation Barbarossa was initiated. The Me-109 soldiered on from the start of thewar against Poland all the way across Russian and back, and ended her career defendingthe Fatherland against Allied bombers. There were several main variants, the classicsbeing the E- Emil, F- Friedrich, G-Gustav (the model version), and K-Kurfurst. The topscoring fighter pilots of all time scored their kills flying the Messerschmitt. Over 33,000were built; some in Spain after the war had ended- with Rolls-Royce engines for power.Around ten countries used them in anger during WWII. There are a few remaining in theworld of this successful fighter, and those that remain are true treasures. That’s a briefoverview of the full size Messerschmitt; let’s start construction on the model.

Prep Work, Tools, and Specialty Items

No special tools are needed but there are a few items the builder might find useful. Abalsa stripper was used to cut all the stringers. A small razor saw or “Zona” makes forease in cutting across stringers. Small files and sanding blocks, especially nail files can behandy. One item that is very useful is a 90 degree triangle. Several sizes and types arerecommended. These can be purchased from a hobby store as well as a homeimprovement store. The entire model was covered with only a “Trim iron”.

It’s best at this time to decide how you plan on completing the model. Do youwish to add sheeting, flaps, full cockpit? Knowing these items in advance can helpprepare the model from the start for these options. As each modeler will tailor the modelto their own desires, not every step in the construction will be covered; just the mainpoints. The first step is to identify all the parts using the Plan Page 3 of 3. Study the parts“trees” and label each of your sheets accordingly. I used masking tap over the part tokeep a more clean build. I recommend laying wax paper over the plans to help protectthem.

Horizontal Stab and Elevator

Start by identifyingparts E-1 to E-8A and H-1 toH-8 and remove them fromthe parts trees. Glue all the“E” parts over the plans perFigure 1. Install H-1 to E-7,and slide into place H-2 to H-8. Now plug E-5 into the rear FIGURE 1

of the H parts. When satisfied with the fit andalignment, glue in place. Add the 1/8” sqr. stringerto the top and bottom. Be sure to leave the sectionbetween H-1 and H-1 open. Trim E-3 at the backof H-8 and set the assembly aside. Install the H-1Rto H-8R parts on E-2 and E-3 per the plan. Plug E-6 into the HR parts, similar to the previous step.When satisfied with the fit and alignment, glue inplace. Add the E-8s on the top and bottom of E-8A.This will create a pocket for the 1/8” wire for theelevator “U” connector that will be installed later.The center section between the elevator halves willbe removed after the U connector is installed. Nowyou can sand the leading and trailing edges to create the “airfoil” shape. The part is readyto be hinged and can be set aside for later. The prototype used CA hinges, but pinnedhinges could be used.

Fuselage

Start by identifying allthe parts listed with “F”,“WS”, and “K” and removethem from the tree. Align K-1through K-7 on the boardover the plan and whensatisfied with their locationglue into place. The fuselageuses 7 “T” braces made frombasswood strips. Make 6 from1/8” thick x 5/8” wide by 24”long stock. Make one “T” from 1/8” thick x 1” wide by 24” long. Cut these 24” strips inhalf and glue at 90 degrees to make the “T”. See Figure 4.

FIGURE 2

FIGURE 3

FIGURE 4

1/8” x 5/8”

1/8” x 1”

Formers F-3, F-4, and F-5 have subparts (labeled F-3a, F-4a, and F-5a) that need to beattached to the main part. Find the Wing Saddle pars WS-1, WS-2, and WS-3 and glueWS-2 and WS-3 to WS-1; these should be on the “inside” of WS-1. Using a 90 degree

triangle, glue in placethe left side of all theformers except F-2.Install the Wing Saddleassembly on F-4 to F-8

and check for alignment. See Figure 6.When satisfied with the fit and alignment, glue inplace. With the keel assembly still on the building board, mark the locations of F-2 on K-1 and K-7- be sure to mark accurately.

Install the 3/16” square basswood stringer at the rear of K-4. Remove the fuse assemblyfrom the building board and install and glue the right half of the formers. Build andinstall the other Wing Saddle assembly and glue in place. Using the template on the plan,mark the center and cross lines onto F-2 and F-2A- DO NOT GLUE THESETOGETHER ATTHIS TIME. Tackglue 3/4" x 1/2" stripsof 1/64”-1/32” plynear the bottom andtop of the right side ofF-1, F-3, F-5, F-8, andF-11. See Figure 7.These ply pieces arethere for the screwsthat will hold the “T”braces to the formers.You can also tack gluethe “T”s in place, butthis might makeremoval later moredifficult. All “T”braces will go on theright side of the keel.

1/32”-1/16” PLYSTRIPS

WS-3 WS-1 WS-2

FIGURE 5

FIGURE 6

FIGURE 7

Start by installing the 1/8” thick x 1” “T”onto the front of F-8 so that the cut out inthe Wing Saddle sits on top of the “T”cross piece. See Figure 9. The remaining“T” braces are made from 1/8” thick x5/8” wide basswood pieces. At this point,the bottom of F-4 should sit flat on thetable and K-2 should close to level. SeeFigure 9. Pin the “T” over the center/thrustline on the plans. Install a “T” to the frontof F-1 and pin over the center/thrust line.

Remove the left side of F-3’s “T” brace, as the left hand side will not fit under K-7. This“T” should be mounted flush against the keel and the backside of F-3. Glue small piecesof 1/64”-1/32” ply to the front of F-2B and the back of F-5A, this will keep a small spacebetween F-2 and F-2B, F-5 and F-5A; simplifying removal later. Pin F-2B and F-5A inplace. Install the “T” brace to the backside of F-5 and pin over the center/thrust line. Adda “T” to the backside of F-11, and tack glue one to the keel in-between formers F-13 andF-14. Attach the last “T” to the 3/16” basswood stringer at the rear of K-4. Pin theremaining “T”s over the center/thrust line and ensure the fuse structure is straight. SeeFigures 8-9. Cut to shape some 1/8” balsa and glue cross grain from F-7 to F-8 acrossfrom Wing Saddle to Wing Saddle- this will be the cockpit floor. Slide F-2 onto thelocation marks on K-1 and K-7 and glue in place. Be sure F-2 is 90 degrees to the keel.

The next step is installing all the stringers. The stringers are made from 1/4” mediumdensity balsa- try not to use too dense as it will not form to the curves of the nose. On theprototype, I used 1/4” balsa sheets and a balsa stripper to make the stringers. There are anestimated 40-45 stringers used if the balsa sheets are 36” in length. Some stringers willneed to be spliced together.

To begin installing the stingers, count the stringer notches from the top to the bottom ofeach former. Note on F-1 to F-5, there is a double stringer cutout. The top stringer on the

FIGURE 8

FIGURE 91/8” Thick x 1” “T”

double cutout will be considered the “Hatch Rail” and will not be counted, i.e. there are11 counted stringer notches on these formers (see F-3 reference on Plan sheet 1 of 3).(Describing the locations of the stringers is more difficult than finding them on themodel. Using the manual descriptions/figures and the plans, you should not have anydifficulties.)

Using F-6 as a startingpoint, the 8th stringernotch down should belocated just above theWing Saddle. Insert astringer on the bottomstringer notch of F-7,butting the stringeragainst the rear of F-6; thestringer should rest on topof the cockpit floor.Continue to insert the

stringer in into the 9thnotch on F-8 to F-12.From F-12 the stinger isangled upward to parallelthe bottom of the keel andshould be slid into the 5thstringer of F-15, buttingagainst the 3/16”basswood stringer at therear of K-4. See Figure11.

Install this stringer onboth sides and whensatisfied with the fit andalignment, glue in place.Install a stringer on thebottom notch of F-6 (#8)going forward to notch #8of F-1 (remember not tocount the “Hatch Rail”cutout). The next stringerto install is the onedirectly above the firststringer installed (reference F-6 stringer notch #7). This stringer will run from F-1 andends on stinger notch #8 of F-13. Install this stringer on both sides and when satisfiedwith the fit and alignment, glue in place. Install the next stringer above the last; it extendsfrom F-1 (#6), ending at F-14 (#7). This stringer is the one directly below the “Hatch

TAPE

FIGURE 10FIRST STRINGER

F-6 F-7

NOTCH #8

FIGURE 11

FIGURE 12

BEND

Rail”. Install this stringer on both sides and when satisfied with the fit and alignment,glue in place. Place plastic tape on the last stringer (See Figure 12) at stringers F-2 to F-5.This will keep the “Hatch Rail” from being glued to the stringer below it. Install astringer for the “Hatch Rail” from F-1 to F-5. Install this stringer on both sides and whensatisfied with the fit and alignment, glue in place. Install the stringer from notch #1 for F-1 to F-6 on both sides. Install a stringer in notch #2 from F-3 to F-6. There is a shortstringer from F-1 to F-2 in notch #2, then from F-2 notch #2 to F-3 notch #1A. This laststringer makes aangled shape the willeventually be the agun trough. Glue the 2pieces of F-7Atogether and bevel thebottom to match theangle on the plan andglue in place. Installthe remainingstringers on the fuse.Note the differenttypes/sizes of stringerson the tail per theplans. The rear of thestringers can be cutflush with the formersor can be angled to blend into other stringers. See Figure 13.With the fuse still pinned to the board, lightly sand the stringers/formers in the hatch areato blend them in and remove anyhigh spots. Cut the stingers inthe hatch area between F-2 andF-2B, F-5 and F-5A. Using theprecut lines as a guide, separatethe hatch by finishing the cutson F-3 and F-4 and remove thehatch. Remove the remainingpre-cut parts on the hatch andthe hatch area of the fuse. Installthe Battery Mounting Plate bysliding it into the wide notch in F-5and the cutouts in F-3 and F-4. Thefront of the Battery Mounting Plateshould be flush with the back of F-2;sand as needed. See Figure 14. Whensatisfied with the fit and alignment,glue in place. Install magnetmounting points in the four cornersof the hatch and the hatch area in the fuse. See Figure 14 and 15.

ANGLED STRINGERS

FIGURE 13

FIGURE 14

MAGNET MOUNTING POINTS

MAGNET MOUNTING POINTS

FIGURE 15

Locate the WMP-2s, they are 1/8” ply and 1/4” balsa parts. Install them in the WingSaddle and K-6 cutouts. The fuse can be unpinned from the table and the “T” bracesremoved. Lightly sand the fuse to blend any stringers and high points. Laminate theWMP-3s and install into the WS-2 and F-7 on both sides. If you do not intend on sheetingthe model, now would be a good time to fill in-between stringers #6-8 on formers F-1 toF-5 per the plans. Sand the infill to match the contour of the fuse. Install the plasticNACA scoops per the plan. You may have noticed the F-2A and SF parts have not beeninstalled. These may need to be adjusted when considering the spinner and motor.

Spinner and Motor

The prototype used a “Power 60” equivalent 400 KV motor spinning both 2 blade and 3blade 16” x 8” propellers. The 3 blade had a more scale appearance but the 2 blade had alower amp draw allowing for a longer flight time. The motor was mounted with the Xmount against F-2 and the bolt-on prop shaft was used. Due to the variation in motorlengths, it is best to prep your motor similarly (X mount and bolt on prop shaft).

You next need to determine if you wish to use the included spinner or to use acommercial one. The included spinner takes some patience and work, but can yield a verylightweight and economical solution. If you choose to use a commercial one, it is best tohave that available before the next step.

Slide the back-plate onto the prop shaft of the motor and hold the motor in place flushagainst F-2. Review the gap between F-1 and the back-plate. If sufficient space is there,tack glue in place parts SF and check forspacing. If there IS sufficient spacing, F-2A canbe glued to the BACK of F-2. If gluing to theback, use the plan guide to cut the top off of F-2A as indicated (this is so it can fit under theBattery Mounting Plate). If there is NOTsufficient spacing between the back-plate andSF, try placing (unglued) F-2A in front of F-2;check for spacing. If there is sufficient spacing,glue F-2A to the FRONT of F-2. If additionalspacing is needed even with F-2A in the front,you can either sand down the SF parts or addadditional shims to the front of F-2A.

If you choose to use the plastic spinner, nowwould be a good time to begin its construction.The spinner is made up of 4 parts, 3 ply discs(back-plate) and a plastic cone. The 3 discs arein decreasing diameter. See Figure 16. Stackthem with the largest on the bottom gettingsmaller going up. There are 6, 1/8” holesaround the outside of the plates. These are used

FIGURE 16

FIGURE 17

to align the discs and are filled with 1/8” dowel. Glue the discs together, using the 1/8”dowel in the alignment holes. Be sure to keep the plates flat. See Figure 17. When dry,chuck the discs in a drill and run the drill, lightly sanding a slight bevel to the discs toconform to the inside of the cone. Test fit the discs/back-plate to the inside of the cone.

Place the disc on a building board and shim underneath so that the cone can slide over thetop of the back-plate and the flange can lay flat on the building board and the fit is snug;this may take some experimenting to find the correct shim height. Once satisfied with thefit, remove the cone and place the back-plate and then prop onto the prop shaft of yourmotor. Mark the locations of where the prop is located on the outside edge of the back-plate. Place the back-plate back on-top of the shim on the building board (minus theprop); be sure the shim and back-plate are flat and level. Place the cone over the back-plate; be sure it is flat on the building board. Mark a point 1/2” on either side of wherethe prop blade is located- centered vertically on the back-plate. Drill a hole using a 1/16”drill bit and install a #2 x 1/2” button head screw. Repeat the same for the other side ofthe propeller blade. See Figure 18. Drill and install and install 2-3 more screws in thearea between the propellerlocations. Cut out just enough ofthe cone for the propeller. Removethe spinner assembly from thebuilding board and trim the excesscone/flange off of the cone. If theback-plate and cone were flatduring assembly, you should nowhave a true spinning spinner. Theprototype motor/battery set upused was a 400 KV motor runningon 6 cells and the plastic spinnerhas been successful with that setup. Always test the spinner duringthe initial run up or with any different power combination a safe distance from you andothers. Check the spinner frequently for any cracks and replace the cone as needed. THESAFE OPERATION OF THE SPINNER AND MODEL IS THE RESPONSIBILITY OFTHE BUILDER AND OPERATOR. Mount the motor onto F-2 or F-2A using thecenterlines marked from the plan. Install the spinner and blend SF to shape.

Vertical Stabilizer and Rudder

Set the fuse aside for now and start to prepare for the rudder. The rear part of therudder is made from 3 laminations of 1/16” x 1/4” balsa. At the end of this manual youwill find pages containing templates. These templates can be printed and used for themodel. One neat trick is to print them onto “Sticker Project Paper”. You can find this atmost office supply stores; while you are there pick up a ream of card stock. These aregreat tools for any modeler. Find the template for the rudder and print out. You can make

FIGURE 18

this template from either 1/4” balsa or from 6mm depron. If you have not worked withdepron, this project would be a good beginner’s choice. Depron is a dense foam that canbe sanded easily. “To-go” dinner boxes and meat trays are made of the same foam. Youcan order this foam online or while at the office supply store pick up “foam board”. Thisis depron with paper on either side. To remove the paper, soak in warm water till thepaper softens and you can peal it off.

Use the paper template of the rudder to make one from the depron. Using a balsastripper or X-acto, cut several strips of 1/16” x 1/4” to form the laminations for the tip.Pat Tritle has a great “how to” section that covers laminating parts (making bowedoutlines). The info can be found here: http://www.patscustom-models.com/building_tips.htm His technique yields great results. Let this assembly dryovernight

The some of vertical parts are made from2 laminations; one of 1/8” and one of 1/4”balsa. These parts are numbered R-1 to R-5 and part R-17. Glue the parts togetherand pin over the plan. Insert the remaining“R” parts. See Figure 20. Once it’s dry,trim the rudder lamination and slide it intoplace. When satisfied with the fit andalignment, glue in place. Now you cansand the leading and trailing edges tocreate the “airfoil” shape. The part is ready to be hinged and can be set aside for later.The prototype used CA hinges, but pinned hinges could be used.

Wing Construction

Prep for the wing construction by creating wingtip laminations the same way you did forthe rudder. Begin with the left panel. From extra 1/4” balsa, make the washout jig from a20” long strip. Cut to height on one end 5/16” and taper down to nothing on the otherend. Pin to the plan just forward of the 1/16” x 1/2” trailing edge. Locate the Main Spar(MS), Retract Spar Front and Rear (RSF and RSR), and Front and Rear Aileron Posts(FAP and RAP). Bevel the front top and bottom edge of the Leading Edge, RSF, and

FIGURE 19

FIGURE 20FIGURE 21

RSR to match the contour of the ribs (use W-1 and W-3 as a guide). Bevel the top trailingedge of the MS, FAP, and RAP to match the contour of the ribs (use W-1 and W-1 as aguide). Place clear tape on the front side of RAP, this will keep it from getting glued tothe FAP during construction. Slide W-1, W-2A and W-3 on-top of MS, RSF, RSR, FAP,and RAP. Place over plans and pin in place. See Figure 22.

Do not pin MS beyond W-7 or the Aileron Posts beyond W-5 as they will need flexibilityfor the washout. Slide the remaining ribs in place as well as the Leading Edge. The outeredge of FAP, RAP, and MS will need to be raised to match the washout. When satisfiedwith the fit, glue in place. Install the1/8” square basswood stringers on thetop and bottom. Glue the 4 laminationsof T-5 together and glue in place on W-11. When dry, trim and test fit the wingtip and align centered on the front andrear of W-11. Test fit T-1 to T-4. Youmay need to bevel them slightly up ordown to match the wing tip lamination.When satisfied with the fit andalignment, glue in place. See Figure 23.Add the 1/16” x 1/2” trailing edge andglue in place. Glue the Wing MountingPlate 2 Bottom in place.

Make the Wing Mounting Plate 1 (Topand Bottom) and Wing Mounting Plate2 Top from the templates at the back ofthis manual. Slide Wing Mounting Plate1, Top and Bottom, into the left panel W-1 notches. Slide into the right panel W-1notches when it is slid into place. Unpin the left panel and build the right panel the sameway. Connect the MS parts with a block of 1” x 2” x 1/4" balsa. Once complete, removefrom the building board. Add the horn mounting plates, 1/4” square infill on the flap, 1/4"balsa block for the flap hinges, and servo mounting items per the plan. Add the 1/4" balsaleading edge, cut to height, and bevel to match the ribs; sand to contour. Infill the centersection and radiator flap section per the plans with 1/8” balsa.

FIGURE 22

WASHOUTJIG

BEVELED EDGES

TIP FRONT

FIGURE 23

Determine the type of retracts you intend to useon the model. The prototype used Robart 609HDmechanical retracts. You could also use air, orthere are several types of electric retracts in thissize. It is best to fit them to RP-1 before gluingin place. When satisfied with the fit, slide RP-1in place and glue the additional piece of W-1 inplace. Make the Retract Mounting Plate from thetemplate at the back of this manual and glue inplace. The Retract Mounting Plate is where theservos are mounted if mechanical retracts are used. See Figure 25, Bevel the trailing edgeof RP-2 (See Figure 24), and mount in place. Install the retracts and ensure smoothextension and retraction.

Lightly sand the entire wing assembly. Sand T-5to shape and contour the rest of the tip. Cut theflaps and ailerons free, contour, and hingeaccording to the plans. Insert the wheel wellcovers with 1/16” balsa or use the templates in theback of the manual and make them from glossycardstock. Make the servo mounting plates from1/16” ply using the templates at the end of themanual. Mount the servos and hook up thecontrols.

Final Assembly

Test fit the horizontal stabilizer over the 1/4” x 1/8”basswood stringers on the fuse tail. The channel madeby E-7 and the H-1s should slip right over thebasswood stringers. Slide the vertical stabilizer intothe same channel on the top. Check for alignment and

FIGURE 24

FIGURE 25

RETRACTMOUNTINGPLATE

MS JOINER

RP-1 AND RP-2

FIGURE 26

FIGURE 27

fit; adjust as needed. Remove the center section of the elevator and install the 1/8” “U”wire joiner. Determine if you are going to mount the elevator and rudder servos near thetail-planes or where indicated on the plans. Install the control horns and any pushrods andexits as needed. See Figure 27. Be sure to secure pushrod tubes to avoid flexing. Installthe tail wheel assembly per the plans.

Test fit the wing and adjust as needed for a flush fit with the Wing Saddle. Square up thewing to the fuse and drill pilot holes into the Wing Mounting Plates on the wing throughthe fuse. Mount the wing with 4 6-32 to 8-32 bolts. The wing fillet can be made frombalsa block using the templates at the back of the manual. See Figure 28.

Radiators and other Details

Trim and test fit the canopy; remove K-2 if installing a cockpit. Make the wheel doorcovers from plastic sheet or ply. These were attached to the 3/16” landing gear wire byslipping 3/8”wheel collarsover the wire andusing short boltsgoing through thegear door andtightened in thewheel collar setscrew location.See Figure 29. Asmall piece of1/4" balsa wasused to create thedoor contour.

The supercharger scoop, oilradiator and wing radiatorswere made from 6mm depron,but could also be made from1/4" light balsa using thetemplates in the back of themanual. These can be

FIGURE 28

WING FILLET

3/8” WHEELCOLLAR

FIGURE 29

FIGURE 30

HINGE LINE

mounted with small screws orglued in-place after covering.

The wing radiators need to behinged if flaps are going to beused. Small pinned or easyhinges are used and a smallpushrod is attached to W-3 andthe radiator flap to allow formovement. See Figure 30-32.The radiator flap could be cutfree and glued to the main flapas a non-scale option.

The supercharger scoop ismade in 2 main sections andthen glued together. The finalpiece is sanded, Spackled, andcontoured. See Figure 33. Alldepron parts were covered withMinwax Polycrylic ProtectiveFinish to seal the foam. SeeFigure 34.

Radio Installation

Finalize your servo locations at this time. There are 4 servos in the wings, 2 for theaileron and 2 for the flaps. Ensure the flaps are moving in the correct direction and withthe same amount of travel. Check the travel on the radiator flaps in conjunction with themain flaps. The radiator flaps should move slightly further than the main flaps creating aspace between them when deployed. Hook-up the elevator and rudder servos; be sure tohave smooth travel. Check that the tail wheel turns in the same direction as the rudder.The BEC and ESC can be mounted on top or below the Battery Mounting Plate. Test themotor to be sure it is running in the correct direction.

FIGURE 31W-3

FIGURE 32

FIGURE 33 FIGURE 34

Covering and Finishing

The prototype model was covered with Coverite Microlite iron-on film. Doculamis also a nice covering film substitute. If the model has been sheeted, there are multipleoptions for covering. If you intend to paint the model, its best to scuff the film surfacewith 600 grit sandpaper before attaching to the airframe; this will allow for better paintadhesion. After covering the model, the supercharger scoop, oil radiator and wingradiators can be mounted permanently if desired. The pilot can be installed and canopyattached.

There are many options to paint your Me-109 after; the prototype’s paint schemewas found here: http://wp.scn.ru/ . Callie Graphics was used to make the markings:http://www.callie-graphics.com/ .

Install the batteries and balance the model per the range on the plans. The Me-109is a stable flyer, with no noticeable negative tendencies. The prototype was powered witha 400KV motor controlled by a 60 amp ESC with an external BEC. The battery packsused are 2 3-cell 5000 Lipo packs in series yielding 7-8 minute flights. Furtherinformation can be found on the build athttp://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1284257

We here at Micko Scale Reproductions hope you enjoy building and flying yourMesserschmitt Bf 109. We wish you many successful flights. We welcome you to send uspictures of your model, or offer suggestions to our email at:mickoscalereproductions@hotmail.com

Thanks again and “Keep your face and wings in the wind”.

RUDDER TEMPLATE3 LAMINATIONS OF 1/16" x 1/4" BALSA

RUDDER TEMPLATE MADE FROM 6MM DEPRON

11-A

WING TIP TEMPLATE3 LAMINATIONS OF

1/16" 1/4" BALSA

WING TIP TEMPLATE MADE FROM 6MM DEPRON

EXHAUST STACKSMADE FROM 2 PIECES

OF 1/4 BALSA

ES-1

ES-2

RETRACT MOUNTING PLATE 1/8" PLY

WING MOUNTING PLATE 2 TOP 1/16" PLY

AILERON MOUNTINGPLATE 1/16" PLY

FLAP MOUNTINGPLATE 1/16" PLY

MAKE 2 OF EACH

WING MOUNTING PLATE 1 TOP AND BOTTOM 1/8" PLY

MAKE A TOP AND BOTTOM

BOTTOM

AN

GLE

TEM

P

OUTER

INNER 2MM DEPRON

OIL RADIATOR MADE FROM 6MM DEPRON

INNER

BOTTOM

AN

GLE

TEM

P

OUTER

SUPERCHARGER INTAKE (TOP) MAKE FROM 8

LAMINATIONS OF6MM DEPRON

SUPERCHARGER INTAKE (BOTTOM)MAKE FROM 4 LAMINATIONS OF

6MM DEPRON

2 1 3

BO

TTOM

WIN

G F

ILLE

T SI

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MA

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2 FR

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1/2

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ALS

A

WIN

G F

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T B

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MA

KE

FRO

M 3

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BA

LSA

WING RADIATOR PARTS FILLET PARTS

WING RADIATOR MADEFROM 6MM DEPRON

OR 1/4 BALSA- MAKE 2

HINGE LINE

BEVELED AREA

1 2 3

BOTTOM

W-1W-3

INNER TEMPLATE

WHEEL WELL COVERSMAKE FROM BALSA

OR CARDSTOCK

W-3W-5

OUTER TEMPLATE

WHEEL WELL COVERSMAKE FROM BALSA

OR CARDSTOCK

CANOPY FRAME REAR

CANOPY FRAME FRONT

ARMOUR PLATE

CANOPY FRAMESFROM 1/8 BALSA OR PLY

WHEEL DOOR COVERMAKE FROM 1/16 PLASTIC OR PLY