Manual Magic Laser Operators Manual

8/14/2019 Manual Magic Laser Operators Manual

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AceAviation

Magic Laser Manual


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MAGIC SPIRIT MICROLIGHT

OWNER & USERS MANUAL

Owners Name:.

Address: .

.

Trike Serial Number: ...

Wing Serial Number : ...

Date of manufacture ..

Factory Settings:

Hang Point Position: Rear position (Slowest trim)...

Sail Tension Position: Factory set before delivery

Cross Bar Tension Position: Set at Ace Aviation India.

Manufactured by:

Ace Aviation, Downham Estate Kalhatty 643 005, Ooty, The Nilgiri Hills, Tamilnadu, India.Phone: 0423 2252131 (Workshop)

0423 -- 2252088 (at all other times)

Website www.aceaviation.co.ukEmail [email protected]


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SPECIFICATIONS

Wing area 13 sq.m.

Wing span 9.20 m

Empty weight 110 KG (With Rotax 447)

M.A.U.W. 230 Kg

Fuel Burn at cruise 8.5 / 11 l/hr

Fuel tank capacity 18.9 litres

Stall Speed 28 Mph

Cruise Speed 38 42 Mph

Max level speed 54 Mph

VNE 60 Mph

Climb rate 900 Fpm

Propeller 2 blades Ace Aviation wooden

Take off distance 65 metres

Engine Rotax 447

Power output 40 HP

Carburetor Bing 54

Ignition Ducati CDi electronic

Starter Hand Start

Max RPM 6,500

Spark Plugs NGK B 8 ES

Wheels 4 inch / 100 mm / 70 mm wide

Tyres 4.00 x 4

Tyre pressures Front 16 - 18 Psi / 1.1 - 1.2 barTyre pressure rear 14 - 16 Psi / 0.9 - 1 bar


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INTRODUCTION:

The Magic Laser Flexwing Microlight is a weight shift controlled microlight aircraft and NOT a 3-axis aircraft. Hence it is

recommended that to fly this microlight the user is expected to undergo a thorough and professional weight shift aircrafttraining and log at least 15 hours of flying after solo in weight shift microlights before attempting to fly this microlight air-craft.

We also warn that this machine is not a toy to be played with but demands respect that one would accord to any air-craft. Any recklessness might lead to incidents or accidents which may extend to fatal bodily injury to you and others. Re-

spect your machine.The search for a high performance single seater flexwing Microlight has resulted in the design of the Magic Spiritand Laser. With due care and sufficient previous experience on weight shift flying you will have many years of great flying

with your Magic Spirit and Laser.The purpose of this manual is to give guide lines to the user as to rigging, transportation, flying, storing, and mainte-

nance of the machine to keep the machine airworthy all the times. In other words it will help you to maintain your aircraft in

an airworthy condition. However teaching to fly is beyond the purpose of this manual. Most of the procedures of rigging,transportation and so on which are detailed in this manual are expected to be already familiarized by the user which shouldhave been taught in his previous flying experience. If in doubt ask an appropriately qualified flexwing instructor or an experi-enced pilot of Flexwing aircraft.

The user is expected to have sufficient training, knowledge and expertise based on a good number of hours logged.The user is ultimately responsible to judge his capacity for the weather and the conditions that he chooses to fly in. He is also

responsible to do all the preflight checks before each flight.

This manual read along with the engine manual which is supplied separately with the engine makes this manualcomplete. You can find all the information regarding the engine as to assembly, running in, electrical circuit diagram, main-

tenance of the engine in the engine manual separately. You are advised to read the engine manual thoroughly and strictlyadhere to the procedures laid by the manufacturer. Within certain limits you can exercise your own judgment but certainlynot in case of a doubt. If in doubt ask a suitably qualified flexwing maintenance company or an experienced flexwing pilot.

2. LIMITATIONS:

WARNING: This aircraft must only be flown by pilots who are properly trained on weight-shift controlled aircraft.

This Laser wing MUST NEVER be flown:

With more than one person in the cockpit

Exceeding 60 degrees of bank

Exceeding 30 degrees pitch up or down from normal cruise flying angle.

as a hang glider

for aerobatics.

Inverted

In a loop

into a whipstall.

with any auxiliary equipment without prior written permission from the manufacturer or distributor.

with any modifications in any respect without prior written permission from the manufacturer or distributor.

With more than the specified MAUW

Exceeding the specified VNE

Exceeding a cockpit load of 105 KG`s Including pilot and baggage.

Exceeding the load factors of + 4g or - 2

In a wind strength of more than 15 Mph

Cross wing of more than 15 Mph

3. Rigging the machineA lot of thought, experience and effort has been put in while designing this microlight for easy rigging so that minimum ef-fort is needed from the pilot. The total process of rigging of the machine, that is, the wing and trike from it`s de-rigged state

should take less than 45 minutes including the checks. When you get familiar with the rigging procedure the time is substan-tially less. By rigging the wing and trike it is assumed that you have already assembled it out of the export box and riggingtherefore is a procedure of preparing the whole machine for flight. This procedure of rigging is the normal way that you pre-

pare your aircraft after you have transported it to the airfield on your vehicle.There is a separate assembly manual for building the aircraft from the export box.


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3.1. Rigging of WingFirst inspect the place of rigging your aircraft and see that it is free of thorns, stones, or any sharp objects which might dam-age the sail and framework.

The wing is packed in a protective bag. Place the bag pointing the nose of the wing into the wind. Open the zip andturn the wing upside down so that the control frame is facing upwards. (See image on left). Make sure no wires have loopedthrough the control frame. Secure the control bar with the bolts and wing nuts and thread the safety rings through the bolts.Turn the wing around so that the control frame is under the wing. The wing is now in the flying position and into wind.

Now gently open the wing, close to the ground, almost to its full

span. Do not lift the wing tips on the leading edges up away from the groundby more than approximately 15 cm`s as this will put an unnecessary amountof strain onto the nose plates and bolts. Any resistance felt during opening the

wing out, stop and look for the cause, tangled wires etc could be the cause. Donot force the wing open. Lookfor the cause and solve the prob-

lem before proceeding.Look for the cross tube

cables inside the keel pocket. Arope is provided at the end of thecables. Pull the cables throughthe keel pocket one either side of

the king post but do not locate the triangular tangs onto the cross tube location

pins yet. Make sure that the rope or the cross tube wire is not kinked or curledaround any of the tubes as it goes through the keel pocket and around the king

post. The cross tube cables should come from their location at the centre of thecross tube plates and on either side of the king post and then directly through thekeel pocket. During this operation check the cables by feeling for any fraying and check that they are not tangled. No wire

should be twisted.

Washout rodsThe washout rods are located in the leading edges at the tips. One per side. (Thisis an anti dive safety devise). These washout rods are held in position by bungeecords and can not be taken fully out of the leading edges as they are attached by

this bungee cord to a fitting that is on the leading edge tube. Pull the end of thewashout rod towards the trailing edge and then push it back towards the leading

edge tube and into the socket. The elastic bungee that is attached to the assemblywill ensure that the washout rod will be guided onto the socket. This may takesome practice.

Compression struts (2 numbers)These tubes are stored in the batten bag. They are 19 mm tubes reducing to 13 mm and just over a meter long. Push these

tubes into the wing tip in between the upper and lower surfaces of the wing. The end locates onto a hook located on the lead-ing edge. BEWARE TO LOCATE THESE COMPRESSION STRUTS ABOVE THE WASHOUT RODS. YOUR

WING WILL NOT FLY PROPERLY IF THEY ARE LOCATED UNDERNEATH THE WASHOUT RODS ! Please

check this. Attach the bungee to the ends of the compression struts.

Inserting the battensThe battens should be inserted when the wing is slack and before the X-Tubes are tensioned as in the description above inRigging the Wing. The battens are color coded. Red battens go to the left side (Or port side) and Green battens go to theright side (Or starboard side) of the wing. Do not mix the battens from left to right.

Start inserting the main sail battens from the tips and work towards the centre. Slidethe battens in slowly as heat can build up and burn the nylon ends. Do not insert theelastics fixed on the sail at this stage. Do not try and push the battens all the way in

at this stage but in until about 10 to 15 Cm`s sticks out further than the trailing edgeof the sail. The final pushing in of the battens is done later. Once all the battens arein push the nose batten in and locate the front end onto the long bolt on the nose

plate. Pull the kingpost up and insert the top rear wires and luff lines into the king-

post S shackle. (Image on left).


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Cross Tube wire

Pull the X-tube wires onto the firstpin at the back of the keel tube and pushthe safety ring in. Then with the X-tube

tensioning tool lever the two tangs ontothe rear attachment holes and locate withthe bolt. Put the safely wires through allbolts for security (Images on left and

right).

Batten elastics

Pull the elastics on to the batten ends now. As you do this give one last firmpush on each batten and they will go right to the end of the batten pockets. Thebatten elastics go around the batten twice. Pull the bottom of the elastic around the

groove first and then pull the top part of the elastic onto the groove. There shouldbe a lot of tension on each batten and the elastics should be quite tight. Now put theundersurface battens in and make sure that they go all the way inside the sail to

touch the underside of the leading edge tube. Poke them in with the end of anotherbatten so that only the pull string is sticking out. You can generally hear the under-surface battens contacting the leading edge tube as you do this. Press the Velcro

sealing strips tightly to trap the undersurface battens.

Batten ProfileThe profile of the battens should be checked each time that you rig and de-rig the wing. Firstly by comparing that the shapesof the left and right hand ones are the same with no kinks and with the template supplied with the wing every 25 hours of

flying.

Lifting the wingLift the wing parallel to the ground holding the nose and the back of the keel. Take the help of a friend if needed as it is im-

portant that the trailing edge of the wing should not scrape along the ground causing damage. Push the control frame as farforward as it goes. If any resistance is encountered, check for kinked cables. Secure the control frame with the front wire

assembly at the nose plates by pushing the locating pin through the swan neck catch and the channel. Secure it with the safetyring. Ask the assistant to hold the wing level by holding the bottom wire front cables. Watch out if the wind had changeddirection and has become a cross wind. Re position the wing into the wind. The rigging of the wing is now complete.

Wing checkIts the time to check the wing. Start checking the wing from one point and complete a circle and end your check at the start-

ing point. See if there are any wires tangled around the cross tube or keel tube. Look in through the zipped inspection hole onthe undersurface to check that the wires are secured properly and that the tangs are not twisted around. At the tips check that

the compression struts and the washout rods are securely fixed. Check the cross bar junction plates by undoing the protectivecovering (This is secured by Velcrostrips). Feel the wires for kinks or fray-

ing. Check all the bolts and nuts whichare accessible that they are secure.When all this is done, walk a few feetaway in front of the wing and check that

its general profile looks correct. Bothhalves of the wing should look thesame. Re-check anything that you sus-pect that is not quite correct.

3.2 Rigging of the Magic TrikeThe Magic trike is designed in a way to minimize the effort of rigging.

First, make sure the ignition switch is offbefore doing anything else. The ignition switch is off when it is in it's

upward position. Do not use the propeller or any part of the engine to lift the trike. The best way to lift the trike off the trailer

or out of the car is to hold it by the front and the back of the seat frame. The back of the seat frame is a natural balance pointof the trike.

The rear wheel axles swivel forward and backwards on articulated joints. Push one axle backwards and locate the

trailing arm into the U channel on the horizontal tube of the trike. Push the locating pin through the U channel and trailingarm tube. Push the safety ring through to secure the pin. (See image on right). Push the other axle backwards and follow the


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Coupling the wing to the trike.

Make sure that your wing is pointing into wind!

Your fully rigged wing is now ready to

place onto the trike.

This procedure can be done by one EX-

PERIENCED person but please get a helperuntil you get the hang of it.

Drop the vertical tube onto the seat.

Place the trike/wing coupling bar provided intothe top location hole on the hinge plates(images on left and right)

Pick up the wing by the uprights andplace the control bar onto the trike seat. (See image on the left). Facing backwardswill be easier whilst doing this.

Whilst holding the Keel of the wing and the trike the coupling bar can now beplaced onto the bolt on the back of the wing keel

tube

Align the trike vertical tube with the hangblock bush and push the 10 mm bolt through thewhole lot. Your wing will now be secure resting

on the seat (Image top left). This alignmentshould be done by pulling the control framejunction to the middle (Image on left). Thenpushing the vertical tube into this assembly.

Take out the wing/trike coupling tube

and lift the wing upwards and backwards at thesame time and locate the 8 mm bolt into the hinge plate (Image on left). This can bedone with practice on your own. Be careful that the weight of the wing does not tip

the trike backwards whilst doing this. It can easily happen if you are not experi-enced.

Put the front tube onto the trike with the two L pins and thread the safetyrings through.

Now everything should be ready to fly.


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same procedure as above. There will be some resistance on trying to locate this second axle as the whole wire tensioningsystem of the trike is working against you but once the centre position has been found it will be easy to locate everything inplace. The trike is now ready for coupling the wing.

POST ASSEMBLY CHECKS:After the assembly is over, do the following checks. These checks are necessary before every flight of the day. Always startfrom one place, like the nose of the wing and make a full circle around the wing ending back where you started. Then the

same with the trike. Get onto the ground to check certain parts. Make it a ritual to check as many nuts, bolts, fittings andwires and try not to be distracted by any event especially well meaning people asking all the questions. Pay special attentionto all the quick release bolts pins and safety rings Before you begin the checks ensure the ignition switch is off.

WING:

Look and feel all the cables for any frays and kinks. Make sure that all the cables go directly to the bolts and are not

twisted around any tubes.

Check that all bolts are secure with nuts, safety rings in their proper places. Check that the cross bar tension cable is

properly fixed with the bolts and a safety rings.

Check that all the aluminum and Stainless steel plates components are not distorted such as nose plate, cross bar

junction plates, control frame junction plates etc.

The tubing components are not dented or bent or heavily scratched. Look through the sail from the tips to see that

the bolts and the fittings on the inside of the wing are properly fixed. Make an inspection of the cross bar to leading edgejunction area including all the bolts and plates. Make sure that the side cables from the leading edge to the control frame are

not kinked around the tangs. There should be a uniform smooth curve from nose towards the tips and the same shape on bothhalves of the wing.

Check that all the battens are inserted correctly and the elastic is inserted on the batten ends for the main sail.

Check that the compression struts are properly seated on the hook on the inside of the leading edge and that the

compression struts are over the top of the washout rods

Check the sail for any rips, frayed stitches etc.

Check that the general aerofoil section of the wing is symmetrical on both the wings.

Trike (The information below for the engine is only after the running in period of the engine)

Make sure that the whole flexwing is pointing into wind. Chock all the wheels so that it can not move. Make sure

that the wing is tied to the trike and parallel to the ground by securing it by rope to the top of the seat frame.

Remove the propeller cover. Check that the propeller bolts are tight and locked with mousing wire. Check for any

damage to the prop. This is very important after each transportation or flight. If you are flying from an unprepared air fieldsmall stones can be flicked up from the tyres and into the prop causing sever damage.

Remove the covering for the pitot tube or ventury tube of your ASI.

Make sure that you have enough fuel for the planned flight. Check for fuel leaks.

Check that the engine mounting is firm and check for any cracks in the mounting rubber bushes. Similarly check

that the exhaust and its mounting bushes are OK and not cracked. Make sure that the connecting exhaust springs are intactand are moused with wire. A broken spring will destroy your propeller.

If you are using a different engine with a belt drive then check that this belt is intact and not cracked or frayed.

If dummy spark plugs are in use, replace them with the actual plugs. Secure the spark plug caps. Hear the clicksound to confirm that the plugs caps are secure on the spark plugs. The spark plug cap may look as if it is firmly on butsometimes it needs that final push to contact the plug correctly.

Check for any loose electrical connections. Secure them.

Choke is set to off (If a choke is fitted). This is in its most forward position on the Magic trike console.

Kill switch is set to off position (This is in the UP position).

Throttle lever set to idling This is the most rearward position from the

pilot's seated position. Be careful! Pushing the throttle lever forward is for in-creasing the rpm on the engine and backwards is for reducing the rpm. Acci-

dents have taken place often in confusion by not paying attention to this smalldetail !! SEE IMAGE ON LEFT

This is the throttle lever position and the kill switch position at all times when

the pilot is not sitting in the seat and when the pilot is not intending to fly the

Microlight. That is throttle lever back towards the engine side of the console

and the kill switch in the UP position.


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ContinuedCheck the following:

Seat belts are in place and secure.

Fuel tank cap is tight and secured and no leakages. Tank belts are secured.

Instrument panel nuts are tight. No cracks in the mounting bushes.

Front axle nut is tight. No bend in the steering fork. Hard landings lead to bent axle and forks.

Enough pressure in the tyres. Do not inflate more than the specified limit. See the specification page.

Check the hang bolt and the safety rings. If needed have a closer look. Make sure that the safety ring is in place.

Make sure the safety wire is going over the top of the keel and fixed to the bolt at the back of the top U channel.

Make sure that the bottom of the safety wire is going underneath the Horizontal tube of the trike and attaches onto the bolt onthe axle plates.

Make sure that no loose items are in your pockets if you intend to fly.

You should not wear loose clothing that would go into the prop. Do not wear a scarf as this can easily come off and

tangle in the propeller.

Check that the all up weight of your Microlight does not exceed the recommended figure. Never exceed the MAUW

of the aircraft. Include the weight of yourself, your clothing, fuel, helmet and baggage etc. Remember more weight increases

take off distance and landing speed. Hence, it is very important to never exceed the MAUW of the aircraft.

If you intend to fly:

Sit in the seat.

Never fly without a helmet. Strap your helmet on.

Check the load of your aircraft now! Never exceed the MAUW of the aircraft. Include the weight of yourself,

your clothing, fuel, helmet etc. Remember more weight increases take off distance, stall speed goes up and landing speed isincreased. Hence, it is very important to never exceed the MAUW of the aircraft.

Strap your seat belts and hear the click sound of the buckle. Pull the belt and check if it is secured. Push the whole

of your body sharply forward to see that the seat belt stops you. If there is too much forward movement then re-adjust theseat belts to be tighter. You should be comfortable before you fly.

Look behind for any other aircraft, people, especially children or animals in the vicinity of the prop. Make sure the

prop is absolutely clear of all obstructions and no micrlolight aircraft close and directly downwind of the prop wash.

Press the Kill switch on. That is DOWN for starting.

Clearly and loudly shout Clear Prop!

Pull the starter handle and fire up the engine.

Rev the engine gently and increase the RPM to 25% power or sufficient to minimize the vibration.

You should hear a healthy continuous sound with no miss firing or excessive vibration. Gradually increase the rpm

over a period of 10 minutes to around the maximum half revs. Then the engine can be revved to the maximum. This proce-dure is recommended only after the engine has been run in. Read the Rotax engine manual for more details of how tooperate your engine. This procedure should also be monitored by an exhaust gas temperature gauge and a Cylinder head tem-

perature gauge if you have them mounted on your instrument panel. The maximum settings are given in your engine manual.

Remove the chocks on wheels and taxi to the runway.

Remember, this aircraft is fitted with a reliable engine but it is an uncertified engine. Bear this in mind during the entire flightenvelope so that you can avoid any nasty surprises.

The above check list was developed by experienced pilots during the evolution of Microlight flying. Generallycheck everything and you can develop a system of your own as long as it covers everything and that you do it with a system

and without fail. Word of warning! Your flexwing Microlight will cause a lot of attention by the general public so during thepre-flight checks avoid other people being around you. Please tell them that you are doing the vital checks of the aircraft andthat you have to be alone for the entire time of the checks. Many accidents that have happened in the past have been due to

other people distracting the pilot during these vital pre-flight checks. So beware!

5. PREFLIGHT CHECKS:

Taxi the aircraft to the runway and stop at least 30 meters from the edge of the runway and at a downwind angle of 45 to therunway to do your preflight checks. This downwind direction is so that you notice all air traffic coming your way. It keeps

you in tune with the air traffic. Never taxi directly onto the runway and do the preflight checks. There may be another aircraftapproaching to land! Keep clear of the runway unless you are either landing or taking off. Do your preflight checks at this

discrete distance from the edge of the runway. If you taxi too far towards the runway then an approaching aircraft may getirritated or anxious because they will not know of your intension. They may assume that you are going to taxi in front ofthem to take off. This would be a disastrous situation. This is not the action of a competent pilot so keep your distance awayfrom the main runway until it is all clear to move onto the runway it's self.

Push the control bar away from you and then fully back towards your chest. Push the control bar fully to the left and


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right. There should be no restriction in these movements. The movement should be free and smooth. Check if you are able toaccess the foot throttle comfortably and all the controls.

Check that harness and helmet are secured. Double check that your helmet is firmly located with the buckle. There

must be room for easy pushing out of the control bar in pitch for flaring whilst coming into land. Adjusting the seat belt too

tightly may not allow you to fully flare in pitch. Always click the buckle lock to close and to double check by pulling in theopposite direction. See the helmet is comfortably seating and the belt is locked in place with a click.

Instruments must be working properly. Check that the ASI (Air Speed Indicator) pitot tube or the ventury tube cover

is removed. Make sure your engine is not overheating by looking at the EGT or CHT gauges if fitted. Even your watch is an

instrument. Make a mental note of your take off time. It helps you in maintaining your flying log book as well as the enginelog book.

Make sure you have enough fuel for the planned flight. Take a look at the fuel tank level by looking backwards and

downwards to the fuel tube indicator. Fuel may be leaking while you taxi to this point.

Weather and wind? Make sure the wind has not increased its velocity and changed its direction since you taxied to

the runway which may be beyond your capacity to control. Make sure that you are heading into the wind for the take off.Check that no excessive thermic activity has built up which may cause difficulty in the handling of the aircraft, especially ona concrete or tarmac runway. If in doubt ask a suitably qualified pilot before taking off. Use your radio to do this if you

have one fitted.

Check if it is all clear on the runway, no obstructions on the runway and that no aircraft is approaching for landing

or trying to do a low pass over you. If you carry a radio make sure that it is switched on and that you act on any informationthat is given about the air space that you are about to fly into.

There you go! Align the aircraft straight up the runway into the wind and gently increase the power to reach maximum RPMfor take off.

This manual is not a training manual and the user of this aircraft is expected to have gathered sufficient experience on weight

shift flexwing microlight aircraft to fly it competently.

6. Flight:Besides the fact that your Magic Laser is a nice handling machine and you will enjoy flying it a great deal, choose a calm dayfor the first flight. A calm day means with hardly any wind, no thermal activity and with good visibility. Select a big, flat and

wide field without any obstructions in your flight path.Plan your flight before you take off. Your maiden flight in your brand new Magic Laser should be a local one. It is

recommended that you take off and land after one circuit. Repeat this if necessary to give you the confidence on your new

machine before committing yourself to a longer flight.

Gently but firmly increase the throttle to the maximum. Hold the bar in the neutral position and when you feel thepressure on the control bar, slowly but firmly push out little by little for your wing to bite into the air. You will be surprisedby the short distance taken by your Magic Laser to take off. If for any reason you fail to take off because of a power loss orfor any other reason and your approach towards the opposite end of the runway seems too close and you still haven't takenoff yet abandon the take off by closing throttle, applying the brake whilst steering the machine straight along the runway and

pulling in gently on the control bar to the neutral position. THERE IS A TENDENCEY FOR THE NEW PILOT TO PUSHTHE BRAKE AND FORGET ABOUT THE STEEERING! Make sure that you guide the machine to a straight standstill.

After your take off there is a surge of climb as the wing bites into the air and gets out of the ground effect. Gently

pull the control bar back towards you slightly and it will naturally find the trimmed position after around 30 feet. Only a littleamount of back pressure is enough just to see you through this critical take off stage of the flight. By this time the end of therunway must be passing underneath you. Climb to 750 feet or the designated circuit height and reduce your throttle to main-

tain this altitude. Gently turn onto your down wind leg and maintain 750 feet. Turn gently onto your cross wind leg and fi-nally onto your final leg. Reduce the throttle setting. The turns must not be sluggish but precise maintaining your airspeed in

the turns. All turns should be to a chosen reference point which should be the touch down point of your aircraft.On the final-leg do your checks. Have your nose wheel straight. Reduce the throttle again to the tick over and come

into land. Always aim to touch down at the 25% point into the runway. If you are too high and feel that you are going to overshoot, do not hesitate! Put full throttle on again and go around for another circuit. If you feel that you are too low on your

finals and in danger of landing before the runway gently push the throttle on to bring the aircraft into the runway before re-ducing the throttle again to drop into the airfield and touch down. Make sure your wings are level. As you reduce your alti-tude and come closer to the ground smoothly push out the control bar against the bar pressure and just a few feet off the

ground push out more and your aircraft will come smoothly down onto the back wheels followed smoothly by the frontwheel. Keep your throttle at tick over and roll to a halt keeping your wings level. Although your flight has finished the wingis still able to be controlled by any wind or thermal activity that is now present. It is very important that you keep your wing

under control all the way to the hangar. Taxi it back with the control bar in neutral position. Whist taxiing downwind pushthe bar slightly out in front of you (Pitch it upwards slightly)

During your flightWhilst flying look out for emergency landing areas. This must become second nature to you. If the engine stops

dont panic as you would have already had an emergency landing area in your mind. Dont waste time in restarting the en-

gine. Switch the kill switch off and chose the best available landing area. Watch out for power lines that are deadly enemies


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for flyers. From a height and certain weather conditions it would be difficult to notice them. Make sure you are landing intothe wind. You can not afford to misjudge your height and find yourself too high as you will over shoot the emergency run-way so you have to get the height correct. It is better to be too high on an approach than come in too low. You can always

loose height by turning the wing before landing. If you have misjudged your height and find yourself too low then there isnothing that you can do to rectify the situation. Resist the temptation to slow the aircraft up too much on your emergencylanding if you find yourself too high. The correct approach height is one where you can land coming straight in from theglide or one where you can burn off the height before landing. Practice these emergency landings in a large airfield often incase you have to use the technique in a real emergency. If you land in a tight emergency field press the front brake smoothly

and then progressively more heavily as soon as you know that the front wheel has touched down. Then pull the bar in to-wards your chest until the microlight comes to a stop. Concentrate on keeping the microlight straight through this emergencylanding procedure. Check for the cause for the engine stoppage.

De-rigging:Reverse the rigging steps to de-rig the microlight.

Packing the Trike:Always have the propeller covered.

If you are transporting the trike on a trailer we suggest that you remove the front vertical tube and lower the rearvertical tube. Tie the rear vertical tube to the front tube bracket on the horizontal beam of the trike.

If you are fully de-rigging the trike remove the trailing arms on the axle legs and slide the wheels forward so that the

wheels come together at the centre underneath the seat and become a padded resting place for the horizontal bar of the trike.

The trike is compact now to go into the back of a vehicle. While doing all of this, we repeat, never to use the propeller orengine to balance or handle the trike.

Wing:If you intend to fly the aircraft the next day or you intend to leave the wing out all night on the field we suggest that

you leave the wing rigged but flat on the ground. You have to detach the wing from the trike for this. Be aware that dew orrain could settle in droplets on the top of the wing. This condition will seriously affect the performance of your wing. Thetake off will also be a surprise to you. We have developed custom made wing covers made from a UV resistant Polyester

which comes as an accessory and bought separately. These covers come complete with ground sheet and wing cover

that covers the whole rigged wing. There are also all webbing straps, pegs and screw in tie downs to hold your wing

securely on the ground even in strong winds. This cover will prevent moisture from collecting on your wing. Please

enquire about these covers.

On the other hand if you intend to de-rig your wing the best is to pack your wing and store it safely. The steps to de-rig yourwing are below. Reverse the procedure for rigging the wing.

a Pull out the nose catch. And lay the wing on the ground.

a. Release the cross bar tension cables on the back of the keel.

b. Remove the under surface battens first then the main sail battens, nose batten and detach the compression struts.c. Pull out the washout tubes.

d. Gently bring the leading edges towards the keel. Each wing at a time so that the leading edges lays close to the keeltube. Pulling the sail fabric out so that you can roll it up later.

e. Take off the lufflines and the rear cable from the S shackle.

f. Lower the kingpost.g. Roll the sail neatly in towards the keel tube.

h. Fix the webbing straps just in front of the hang block and at the tips and one other place in the middle.i. Cover the wing with the bag and pull up the zip a few centimeters on either side.

j. Turnover the wing along with the bag onto the other side (That is turn the whole wing through 180 degrees).

k. Detach the control bar from the frame. Replace the bolts, nuts and rings.

l. Fold the control bar back and carefully pad to cover the sharp bolts which might poke a hole into the sail.

m. Insert padding around the hang block.

n. Fix the other 2 webbing straps And check that all are secure and close thebag.

Keep the battens separately in the batten bag. The compression struts also go into thebatten bag.

Tuning your wing for an unwanted TurnYour Laser wing should fly straight with hands off in nil wind non thermic conditions.

It is factory set to 35 degrees of washout at the tips relative to the keel tube of thewing. The image on the right demonstrates how we arrive at this calculation. Set the


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protractor to 35 degrees. Put an 8 mm rod into the nylon tip block and measure by sighting it against the keel tube. The twowing tips must be the same. After a certain amount of flying, or for any reason you find that your Laser is turning to one sidewithout pilot input you can do the following tuning adjustments to your Laser wing.

Before tuning adjustments, it is best to investigate the cause. Check to see if both the wing tips have the same pro-file. Check that the compression struts are straight. Check that the leading edge tubes are straight and have no bends in them.Check the batten profiles of each batten in turn. Pay special attention towards the last two tip battens which can effect thewing a lot more than the inner 4 battens. Check for bent hang point plates also check the trike alignment with the wing. Sat-isfy yourself that all these points are correct before you embark on the tuning adjust-

ments of your wing.If your wing is turning to the right then your left wing needs to be adjusted.Inside the right wing tip at the back of the leading edge tube there is an adjusting bolt

(See image on right). Slacken this bolt sufficiently so that you can turn or rotate thetip adjusting tube. Turn this tip adjusting bracket anticlockwise.

If the wing is turning to the left. Then the right wing needs adjusting. Go

through the same procedures as above and then turn this tip adjusting bracket clock-wise.

The amount that you turn these tip adjusting brackets depends on the sever-ity of the unwanted turn. If there is only a slight turn in the wing we recommend thatyou turn the tip adjusters by only a maximum of 5 mm of rotation or 5 degrees ofrotation at any one time. Then fly to see if the wing flies straight. This method of tuning keeps your wing in a mild state of

tune and makes sure that your wing always has docile stall characteristics. This is the factory recommended way of tuning

the wing.In time and with more experience you may want to make the wing have slightly more performance by putting the

billow rings into the wing tips. These will pull out the sail on the frame and induce less washout. You will have a flatter sailbut the whole wing will be less responsive. We supply billow rings of 3 and 5 mm for this purpose. The sail has to come offthe wing tip locating nylon balls for this. You then have to get the wing tip adjusting tubes out by going through the above

procedure of slackening off the bolts at the back of the wing tip tubes and then slide the 3 mm billow rings onto the wing tiptubes before tightening up the adjusting bolts again. You then have to re-set the washout angles with a protractor as in thetuning of the wing above. As these billow rings will tighten the sail the washout angles will also be lowered and the washout

angles will be considerably reduced. Under no circumstances should the pilot reduce these washout angles by less than 15degrees relative to the keel of the wing. If in doubt you have to consult the Magic Microlight agent or a suitably qualifiedcompany that has the necessary knowledge on these matters of tuning wings.

9.1. TRIM:

The hang point bush on the keel of the Laser can be moved forward to increase the speed. There are three adjust-ment settings on the keel for this purpose. The hang point should be pushed one hole forward at a time. Each hole forwardwill increase the speed and as a consequence of this the control bar will be closer to the pilot in flight. The factory settingcomes with the slowest tuning.

To adjust the hang point for greater speed take out the bolt from the fronthole and push the Nylon thrust washer forward and, insert the bolt into the nexthole towards the nose, lock it with a nyloc nut. Push the hang point assembly for-

ward or push the wing backwards. This will be easy if you tilt the wing backwards(increase the pitch) and then roll the wing from side to side. The wing slowlymoves backwards on each roll cycle of the wing. Then take out the rear bolt and

push the nylon thrust washer forwards to touch the hang block. Re-locate the boltonto this hole and lock it with the nyloc nut. The control bar will move towards thepilot as a consequence of moving the hang point forward and in flight you will no-

tice that the control frame is closer towards you at this new trim position.

The Hang block (shown Left) is where you adjust the trim.

TRANSPORTING YOUR WING.The Magic Laser can be transported on a Car, or any other similar vehicle. The trike can be de-rigged by undoing the trailing

arm bolts where they fix onto the horizontal tube of the trike. This allows the back wheel axles to fold forward underneaththe seat. The vertical tube also swivels down to meet the nose of the trike by removing the front bar and the 8 mm bolt on theseat frame hinge plate. The whole trike can be gently loaded into the back of your car. Always load your trike upright if there

is any fuel in the tank. Secure the trike with belts or ropes so that it can not move whilst driving. You can use the propellerhub to tie it onto the vehicle but NOT the propeller itself. Insert padding where necessary to protect your tike from damage.

If you have a trike trailer then it is just a case of removing the front tube and lowering the vertical tube by taking out the 8

mm bolt from the seat hinge plates and tying it securely.

The wing can go on the roof rack of your vehicle. Make sure that the wing is supported along most of it's length. The onlyextra fitting to add to a family saloon car is a bar from the front bumper of the vehicle. This bar must be level with your roofrack. This way most of the wing is supported. Generously pad the rack with a material where the wing is loaded. Firmly se-


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cure the wing with rope, bungee or belts. Tie a red ribbon at the back of the wing bag.

STORING:In the season when you can not do much flying it is best to store your microlight safely. Store the wing above the ground toavoid any moisture from getting to the wing. Store in a cool dry place and in a place that is not a fire hazard. Watch for miceand rats or other creatures. We have seen the total destruction of the wing material on several occasions when left stored indubious places for long periods of time. Barns come to mind as being the worst places to store your wing. Just remember that

your wing fabric and seat can be the warmest place for these creatures in an open building especially in the cold Winter.

Store the trike covered on an even ground, wheels chocked. If you do not plan to fly for long best is to remove the propeller

and store it carefully separately.

MAINTENANCE:

Check daily or each time you fly

Wing

All cables and luff lines. Check for damage and frayed cables. Replace if damaged.

Top wires firmly secured at back of keel and on the S tang near the top of the king post.

All cable tangs secured to their bolts and fittings. Check for corrosion

X-tube wire fixed to keel and the wing-nuts tight and safety pins in place

All nuts and bolts secure with no corrosion No cuts in sail. All sewn seams intact with no fraying of stitches

All tubes straight with no bends

All plates and Channels undamaged with no heavy abrasion or cracks

Check wing batten profile with no cracks of heavy abrasion on fiber glass parts of battens

Compression struts are engaged into their hooks and are straight and go over the top of the washout rods.

Angle of tip rotators should be the same. 35 degrees is the standard setting. See tuning your wing section

Check for rigging tension No really slack wires and no wires too tight

Check that the aerofoil section of the two halves of the wing look the same

The washout (Or wing twist) is the same on both halves of the wing.

That the luff lines are of the same tension on both halves of the wing and the U shackles are firmly bolted onto thesail.

Look inside each wing tip and check that the washout rods are in place and that the leading edges have a smooth curveand an equal curve.

Look inside the wing from the X-Tube side (Or Root of the wing) to check that all bolts on the X-Tube are secure. Youcan pull apart the X-Tube cushion to see this.

Check that the X-Tube tension wire is un damaged and correctly routed around each side of the king post and then ontothe two bolts at the back of the keel.

Check all batten pockets for damage.

Check that there are no tools of other objects inside the wing. Opps!

Trike

All cables are secure and undamaged. They must also be at the correct tension which is tight.

All Tangs are secured to the bolts

All nuts and bolts are in place

Check all bolts for corrosion

All quick pins and safety pins are in place

All tubes and plates should be straight and free form heavy abrasion and cracks.

All baggage compartments should be zipped up and no tears in the fabric.

No cracks in the fibre glass parts if fitted

Tyres should have no cracks and should be of the correct pressure

Wheels should run freely. Pick up each wheel in turn and check for smooth running

All engine bolts secure

All engine mountings should have no cracks

No holes or cracks in the exhaust silencer.

All exhaust rubbers intact with no splits in the rubbers

Exhaust springs intact and mousing wires in place

No distortion on welds and no cracks on steering tube, steering forks, engine mountings, exhaust brackets or back axles.

No cracks or damage to propeller.

All fuel lines intact with no splits or cracks. No damage to fuel filter or pump. No visible dirt in fuel filter.

All wiring secure and all terminations secure. No cracks or frays.


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Plug leads in good condition.

Kill switch in good condition

All seat webbing in good condition. No frays of rips

All seat belts in good condition. No frays or rips.

Seat secured to the seat support webbings.

The above are only guidelines and are generally used for most microlights world wide. Have a definite system when youcheck and do not let anyone disturb you when doing these vital checks.

Every 10 hours

Check the spark plug

Check the fuel filter

Full daily inspection

Every 50 hours or 1 year which ever is the earliest

Change spark plugs

De-carbonization if needed

Change fuel filter

Check exhaust springs

Check all locking wire

Check for sail wear Check all webbing Seat belt in particular

Replace fuel filter

Full daily inspection

Every 100 hours or every 2 years which ever is the earliest

Replace air filter

Take the sail off and give it a full inspection for rips and wear. Especially the batten pockets, eyelets and wing tips forwear and tear. Repair if necessary

Inspect the whole trike and wing by stripping the tubes, nuts and bolts. Replace any suspect of wear and corrosion

Every 200 hours or every 4 years which ever is the earliest

Carry our the full 100 hour inspection

Inspect the whole wing and trike of all the individual parts. Inspect and replace anything that is worn or corroded.

Heavy landing checksThe maintenance on the wing is minimum. Store the wing properly. After each transport check for any dents on all the tub-ing. See that no holes are punched in the sail by any sharp edges during the transportation. Always suspect the transportationif minor damage is seen. Its best to check often the battens with the profile template provided with each wing especially aftereach transportation if the battens are carried in the wing bag. In case of getting any oil stains etc on the sail, use mild soapywater to clean. Do not use any chemicals, thinners etc. Just plain mild soap and water.

TRIKE:

Daily

Keep the trike clean. Remove all the oil stains etc off the trike. Look after your machine, it is the best guarantee that you haveof it giving you good service. Keep your battery charged all the times if you have fitted one. Fuel lines tend to get hard andbrittle with age. When you notice this replace them. The recommended oil is stated in the engine manual. Only use semi or

fully synthetic 2 stroke oil. Buy petrol from a reliable source. Always filter the fuel while pouring into the tank. Be very scru-pulous about having clean fuel going into your tank. Clean the fuel tank every six months. Clean the fuel tank using petrol

only. Be meticulous about maintaining your machine all the time.

Spark Plugs: Use the spark plugs as recommended by Rotax. This is in the engine manual. Do not drop plugs while han-

dling them. Treat the plugs with respect and they wont fail you when you are flying over a forest or open water. Never em-ery paper to clean the plugs. Instead use a fine wire brush or a 400 grade fine glass paper along with clean petrol. Maintainthe electrode gap as stated in the engine manual. A healthy spark plug electrode must be in brown color without any oil on it.Change the spark plugs as stated in the engine manual. Even though you consider it would last longer, just change them at

the recommended time.

Propeller: If the propeller is damaged you can repair this to a certain extent without sacrificing the performance. With a

sharp object remove the loose wooden particles. Mix Araldite epoxy adhesive and hardener 50% each. Leave the mixture forabout 5 to 10 minutes to settle and apply onto the damaged area. Take away the excessive araldite and leave to harden. The


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Araldite that we use for the manufacture of our own propellers is a Standard two part epoxy adhesive. Leave it to dry for 48hours. Then sand off with a medium then a smooth wet and dry paper keeping the profile of the prop equal on both sides andhalves. Use a good quality varnish to paint or spray over the damaged area. Then balance the prop. Balancing the prop is

vital. An unbalanced prop can kill the engine, through bearing failure and will perform very poorly with excessive vibration.

We manufacture a prop balancing tool.

When mounting the propeller, do not over tighten the bolts as you will squeeze the wood between the propeller plate and thehub.

Engine: For the maintenance of your Rotax engine strictly adhere to the maintenance schedule given in the engine manual.For major maintenance work like de-carbonization of the engine or replacement of rings or pistons, or overhaul of the engine,

it is best to pack the engine and send it to a recognized Rotax dealer or a suitably qualified 2 stroke Microlight mechanic forprofessional work. Power failure or less power at take off might prove fatal. Do not trust it to your local car or bike me-chanic.

Fuel Filter: Use good quality fuel filters. Change them every 25 hours. While mounting check the direction of flow of fuel.There is usually an arrow marked on the filter. Secure it properly.

Carburetor: Your carburetor is set at the factory settings. Never fiddle with the adjustment screws unless you are followingthe recommended way from the engine manual.

Air filters: Clean your air filters regularly. The air filter should be cleaned or replaced as per Rotax engine manual.

REPAIRS:Minor repairs to your aircraft can be carried out by yourself. Any structural bends that may happen after a hard landing orbad transport, sail repair etc must be carried out by a suitably qualified Microlight company. DO NOT attempt this task by

yourself unless you have suitable knowledge.

Repairs to WING:

In case of small holes in the sail, or small tears not extending 25 mm use an adhesive polyester tape on both sides of the fab-ric.

If the battens have distorted and changed their profile, check with the template and bend them back to match the template.While doing so make sure there are no cracks on the batten tubing.

If any structural tubing is bent or dented for some reason and is beyond repair it is best to replace the part with an Ace Avia-tion factory part. Never replace them with any grade of aluminum tubing. We use a high tensile tubing that is specially devel-oped for Microlight use. Any structural repairs are best carried out with genuine Ace Aviation parts. It is an easier prospect to

buy these genuine parts and replace them yourself.

Under no circumstances try to repair the cables. The correct length must be kept and please understand that old cables will

have stretched so a new cable is essential. It is no good copying the length of an old cable. Spares are available from yourAce Aviation agent.

Exposure of the wing to the UV rays of the sun is harmful to the sail cloth. When not in use it is best to keep the wing packedin the bag and store it in the shade. After 350400 hours of flying it is best to replace the sail. Ace Aviation make Flex-

wing covers to protect your wing for this purpose that can be used outside in most weather conditions or inside a han-

gar. Please enquire for these covers to Ace Aviation.

Repairs to TRIKE:

On the trike, as mentioned earlier in the maintenance chapter propeller repairs to a certain extent can be carried out by your-self but once you do this, make sure that the propeller is properly balanced. This is very important. Ace Aviation make apropeller balancing tool. Please enquire if you want one. The engine repairs and overhaul are best done by a suitablyqualified Microlight company and unless you have the knowledge do not attempt to do this work yourself. In the case of re-pairs, never listen to other general vehicle mechanics, who usually appear to be knowledgeable. These two Stroke engines

need a different kind of knowledge so find a suitably qualified Microlight mechanic for these repairs or better a qualifiedRotax engine mechanic. A sudden drop of power at the take off may prove fatal. Please bear in mind that if you compromiseon the cost and time with the maintenance or repair of your engine, you are definitively compromising on the airworthiness

of the aircraft which in turn may affect your safety.

Do not undertake welding of additional parts onto the trike or wing which may upset the balance and alter the attitude of theaircraft in flight.

If the engine has to be removed for any reason such as overhaul. make a note of where everything goes so that you can as-


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semble it correctly. Take images if possible.

Finally, maintain a log book of your aircraft, separately from your personal flying log book. The aircraft log book is very

useful for you to trace the history of engine running hours, maintenance schedules, problems, repairs and so on.

Look after your aircraft, keep it clean, follow the manual and you will have hundreds of happy flying hours on the MagicLaser.

Recommended maximum life of all main components.It is recommended that you adhere to this schedule. It is the maximum required number of hours to change these main com-ponents.

Trike. All rigging wires - 250 Hours or every 4 years.

Trike. Engine mounting rubbers 150 hours

Trike. Engine mounting frames - 500 hours.

Trike main swiveling vertical tube - 500 Hours.

Trike main swiveling vertical tube bushes - 150 Hours

Trike bottom vertical tube - 1000 hours

Trike main horizontal tube - 1000 hours

Trike axle tubes - 750 hours

Trike trailing arms - 750 Hours

Trike front forks - 400 hours or when wear becomes excessive

Trike front fork tube - 400 hours or when wear becomes excessive

Trike seat frame - 750 hours

Trike cruise and foot throttle cables - 250 hours

Wing Main Hang block bolt (Pitch bolt) - 250 Hours or every 4 years

Wing Main hang bolt bushes into hang block side plates - 250 Hours or every 4 years

Wing Hang block bush and all bolts - 400 hours

Wing back up wire - 250 hours

Wing Cross tube tension cable - 250 hours or every 4 years

Wing Sail fabric. That is the whole wing covering. - 400 Hours or every 5 years (Which is the industry standard for

Polyester sailcloth.

Wing Outer Leading edge tubes - 1000 hours Wing Inner leading edge tubes - 1000 hours

Wing Keel tube - 750 Hours

Wing Cross tubes - 1000 hours

Wing King post tube - 1000 hours

Wing control frame and bottom bar tubes - 1000 hours

Thanks and have many happy and safe flying hours. From all at Ace Aviation

Manual Magic Laser Operators Manual

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Transcript of Manual Magic Laser Operators Manual