Kitchen StorageR

30 SEPTEMBER 2001 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN

More KITCHEN STORAGE

by Spike Carlsen

55Roll-out

pantry cabinetp.44

Chances are, your kitchenhas plenty of storagespaceits just that agood chunk of it is hidden in thehard-to-get-at corners, nooks andcrannies of your cabinets. Deep basecabinets and corner cabinets pose particular problems.

Were going to show you five projects that create more storage spaceand make existing cabinet space moreaccessible. Each project is constructedusing readily available lumber, plywood, hardware, L-moldings, glueand screws. For speed and accuracy,we recommend you borrow, buy orrent (about $20 per day) a power mitersaw. We start with the easiest projectand end with the hardest, so if youre a beginner, you can build your do-it-yourself skills and confidence as youwork your way through.

Since many cabinet openings differfrom ours in height and width, wellconcentrate on the basic steps andkey measurements rather than exact dimensions.

Heres what it takes.

Some of these projectsmount to cabinet doorsor face frames. Makesure your cabinets, doorsand hinges are in goodshape and that you dontoverload your finishedprojects with heavy cansand other objects.

Tip

Door-mounted spice rack

p.32

11

THE FAMILY HANDYMAN SEPTEMBER 2001 31

55projects that spacespace

in your cabinets . . .

createcreatemore

22Door-mounted

lid rackp.32

33Swing-down cookbook rack

p.36

Glide-out and swing-out shelves

p.38

44


1MEASURE the distance between the two verticalstiles and the two horizontal rails to determine theoutside dimensions of your spice rack. Cut existing shelves back 2 in. so they dont interfere with the rackwhen the door is closed.

2TRANSFER the dimensions from Fig. A onto 1/2 x 2-1/2 in. side boards. Cut out the sides of the spice rack. Drill 1-in. holes to create the circularshape, then finish the cutout with a jigsaw. Drill 5/16-in.holes for the dowels. Sand the edges and surfaces smooth.

These simple racks will help transform those chaoticgangs of spice bottles and pan lids into orderly regi-ments. We show you how to build only the spice rack;the lid rack uses the same steps but without the shelves.Each spice rack can hold 20 to 30 bottles, and each lidrack two to six lids, depending on the height and widthof your cabinet doors. Before building, measure yourspice bottles and lids to determine the spacing of yourshelves and dowels. Here are other key measurements

and clearances to keep an eye on:

Existing shelf depth. If theexisting cabinet shelves arefull depth, narrow them byabout 2 in. to accommodateeach door-mounted rack.Shelves that are permanentlyaffixed in grooves in the cabinet sides will need to becut in place with a jigsaw.Adjustable shelves can be

OUTSIDE-TO-OUTSIDE RACKMEASUREMENT

VERTICALSTILE

HORIZONTALRAIL

CLAMP

1" HOLE

1" SPADEBIT

5/16"DRILL BIT

1/2" x 2-1/2"BOARDS

CUT SHELVES SOFRONT EDGE IS 2-1/2"FROM BACK OF DOOR

1 2 Door-mounted spice and lid racks


JIGSAW

&

Tip


removed, cut along the backsidewith a circular saw or table saw,then replaced. You may need tomove brackets or add holes toremount narrowed shelves.

Spice rack depth and position-

ing. Make certain the new rackwont hit the cabinet frame whenthe door swings. We found that fit-ting the rack between the two 2-in.wide vertical stiles (Photo 1) gave usadequate room. If your doors aresolid wood or laminate, hold inplace a scrap of wood the samedepth as the spice rack (2-1/2 in.was the depth we used) and swingthe door. Move it away from thedoor edge until it no longer makescontact with the cabinet frame, thenmark the door. This will determinethe overall width of your spice rack.

We used soft, easy-to-nail pineand basswood for both the spiceand the lid racks. If youre using aharder wood, like maple or oak,position the pieces, then predrill

holes through the side pieces andinto the shelf ends. This will preventsplitting and make nailing easier.Install your shelves one at a time soyou dont have to balance and jugglemultiple pieces as you work. Alwaysnail on a flat, solid surface.

4CLAMP the finished rack to the door, then drillangled pilot holes through the rack and into thedoor every 8 in. Secure with brad nails (removethe door for this step if you find you need a more solidsurface for hammering). Use carpenters glue for a morepermanent installation.

3GLUE AND NAIL the shelves in place one at atime, using 3d finish nails. Then use 3/4-in. bradsto pin the dowels in place. Sink all nailheadsusing a nail set. Apply polyurethane or other finish tomatch the cabinets.


Use high-glosspolyurethane fornatural wood, high-gloss enamelfor painted wood.These finishes aremore scrubbable.

1/2" x 2-1/2"SHELVES

3/4"BRAD

5/16"DOWELS

1/16"DRILL BIT

CLAMP

FIG. ASWING-OUTSPICE RACKDimensions will vary according to thesize of your cabinet doors

1" DIA.CUTOUT

CABINETRAIL

3dFINISHNAILS

BRADNAILS

5/16"DOWEL

1/2" x 2-1/2"BOARDS

CABINETSTILE

1/4"

2"

3/4"

1/2"


1CUT the 1/2-in. thick plywood base to size. To getstraight cuts, measure from the edge of your circu-lar saw base to the edge of the blade, then clamp a straight board to the plywood that distance from yourcutting line to serve as a guide. Cut with the ply-woods good side down.

2GLUE AND NAIL the 3/4 x 3/4-in. lip to the frontof the base, then picture frame the plywoodwith L-moldings. For an exact measurement, cutone end at 45 degrees on a miter saw, hold it in positionand mark the other end. Put a reminder mark on theboard so you remember which direction to cut the angle.Secure the pieces with carpenters glue and 3d nails.

Swing-down cookbook rackWhen counter space is at a minimum and counter mess at amaximum, this swing-down rackwill keep your cookbook up andout of the fray. The special spring-loaded brackets allow you toswing your cookbook down whenyou need it, then out of the waywhen youre done.

Our cookbook platform tucksunder a single cabinet. But youcan make your platform larger tohold larger books, then mount itbeneath two cabinets. With a littlecreativity, you can use this samehardware to create a swing-downknife rack or spice rack too.

Fold-down brackets (No.00S30.02) are available for $17.95plus shipping from Lee ValleyTools, P.O. Box 1780, Ogdens-burg, NY 13669; (800) 871-8158.www.leevalley.com

3d FINISHNAILS

3/4" x 3/4"LIP

L-MOLDINGS

GLUE

STRAIGHT-EDGE

3

SUPPORTBLOCKS

45-DEGREEANGLES

THE FAMILY HANDYMAN SEPTEMBER 2001 37

3MOUNT the hinges to your base using woodscrews. Hold the assembled unit in positionunder the cabinet, then mark the holes for thebrackets (a two-person job). Drill the holes, thensecure the brackets to the cabinet using shortmachine screws, washers and nuts.


MACHINEBOLT

SWING-DOWNHINGES

FIG. BSWING-DOWNCOOKBOOK RACKOverall dimensions can vary according to space available

MACHINE BOLTWITH WASHERAND LOCK NUT

PLYWOOD

3/4" x 3/4" LIP

SWING-DOWNHINGES

3d FINISHNAIL

1" x 1" L-MOLDINGS


1GLUE AND NAIL the 1x3s together using 4d fin-ish nails, then secure the plywood bottom with 3d finish nails.

Blind-corner glide-out and swing-out shelvesBlind-corner cabinetsthose with a blank facethat allows another cab-inet to butt into themmay be great for agingwine, but theyre darnnear impossible to seeand reach into. Thispair of accessories putsan end to this hiddenwasteland. The hingedshelf swings out of the

way, and the gliding shelf slides forward so you canaccess food items stored in the back. You can use thesame hardware and techniques for making base cabinets more accessible too.

The key measurements and clearances:Glide-out shelf dimensions. You can only make the

unit as long as the door opening is wide (or else youcant fit it in!). Make the unit about 1/2 in. narrowerthan the inside width of the cabinet.

3d FINISHNAILS

1x3

1/2" PLYWOODBOTTOM

1" x 1" L-MOLDINGSUPPORT

L-MOLDING TOCOVER BOTTOMEDGE OF TRAY

1/2" PLYWOOD

4

Build the glide-out shelf

2CUT out the two plywood sides, then glue andnail the corners. Connect the trays to the two plywood sides using 1-in. drywall screws, thencut and nail L-molding to support the front corner. Cutand install L-moldings to support and cover the exposedplywood edges of the upper tray. Install 3/4-in. screenmolding to cover the plywood edges of the bottom tray.


PLYWOODSIDES

GLIDE-OUT

SHELF

HINGEDSWING-

OUTSHELF



Beg, borrow or rent a compressor,finish nailer and brad gun, if youcan. Youll work faster, eliminatehammer marks and split thewood less often than you wouldhand-nailing.

Tip

COMPLETEDTRAY UNIT

BLINDCORNERCABINET

1/2" PLYWOOD

L-MOLDING

1x3

1x4PINE

1/2" PLYWOOD

MOUNTINGBASE

3/4" SCREENMOLDING

SECURE UNIT TO MOUNTINGBASE WITH 3/4"

DRYWALL SCREW

PLYWOODMOUNTING

BASE

METALSLIDES

3CUT the mounting base plywood slightly smallerthan the other tray bottoms, then secure the twoslides parallel to each other about 1 in. from eachedge. Slip this mounting base into the opening, extendthe slides, then screw them to the cabinet bottom at therear of the cabinet. Install the slides parallel to the cabinetsides, so the base slides back and forth freely.

FIG. CGLIDE-OUT AND SWING-OUT SHELVES

1" x 1" L-MOLDING SLIDES

1x10 CUTTO FIT

22-1/2 DEGREEMITER CUTS

PIANOHINGE

1/2" SPACE

3dFINISHNAIL

1x4 MOLDING

2" DRYWALLSCREWS

1/2" SPACE

CABINETOPENING

WIDTH

These two measurements cannotexceed cabinet opening width

4SCREW the tray unit to the mounting base using3/4-in. screws. After installing the first screw, slidethe unit forward and back, then adjust it until it runsparallel to the cabinet sides and install three more screws.

Shelf unit dimensions willvary according to cabinet size

1/2" SHELF

BOTTOM


6ASSEMBLE the shelf unit. First mark the shelfpositions on the uprights and predrill holes fromthe front side. Create the three shelves by cutting a1x10 to length and width, then cutting the corner at 45 degrees. Hold the shelves in place and drive drywallscrews through these holes from the backside into theshelves. Cut the 22-1/2 degree angles on the front mold-ings and secure them with 3d finish nails. You can use anytype of wide decorative molding thats at least 1/2 x 3 in.

7SCREW the piano hinge to the front edge of theswing-out unit, then to the edge of the cabinetface frame. Make certain the swing-out has 1/2 in.of clearance top and bottom. Use an assistant to helpyou lift and hold the unit at the proper height whileyoure securing it to the cabinet.

Use a damp sponge to wipe up glue dripsimmediately. Itll save hours of sandingdown the line.Tip

2" COARSE-THREADDRYWALL SCREW

PIANOHINGE

DIAGONAL MEASUREMENT

CANNOT EXCEEDOPENING WIDTH

OPENING WIDTH

22-1/2DEGREE

MITER CUTS

EQUALLENGTHS

1x10SHELF

45-DEGREE CORNER

CUT

PREDRILLHOLES,

THEN DRIVESCREWS INTOSHELF FROM

BACKSIDE

1x10UPRIGHTS

CARPENTERSGLUE

Swing-out tray dimensions. The corner-to-corner ordiagonal measurement of the unit (Fig. C) cant exceedthe width of the door opening (or else that wont fiteither!). Make the unitabout 1 in. shorter thanthe opening height so ithas room to swingfreely when installed.

Piano hinges (No. 19283) and bottom slides are available from Rockler Woodworking and Hardware,4365 Willow Drive, Medina, MN 55340; (800) 279-4441.www.rockler.com. The front moldings (No. 673) aremanufactured by House of Fara (800-334-1732;www.houseoffara.com). House of Fara products areavailable at Menards, Home Depot and Lowes stores.Call the company if you need help finding a dealer.

Build the swing-out shelf

5CUT the 1x10 swing-out uprights to length andwidth (one should be 3/4 in. narrower than theother). Use a countersink bit to predrill holes alongone edge, then glue and screw the two edges together.The diagonal measurement (see Fig. C) should be less thanthe cabinet opening.

COUNTER-SINK BIT


Test-fit your shelfunits in the cabinetas you work.Tip


1MEASURE the cabinet face frame opening, then sub-tract the height of the top and bottom glides. Use theguidelines given to arrive at the depth, width and height of your pantry unit. Be sure to install the bottomglides so they run parallel to the cabinet sides. If neces-sary, use plywood to raise the cabinet bottom even withthe bottom lip of the face frame.

2INSTALL the top glide support and top glide sothe support is level and flush to the top of theframe opening. Screw plywood flanges to eachend of the 1x3 support beforehand to make it simpler tosecure it to the front and back of the cabinet.

Roll-out pantry cabinetMost cabinet manufacturers now include roll-outshelves in their base cabinets. But if you dont havethis convenience, this project will one-up thoseshelves. Here well show you how to make an entireroll-out pantry.

The hardware consists of two heavy-duty bottom-mounted slides and one center-mountedtop slide that together can support 130 lbs. Again,construct your unit to suit your needs. We madeour bottom tray 3-1/2 in. tall and the upper ones 2-1/2 in. tall. You may want to include only twotrays if youll be storing cereal boxes and other tall packages.

Since youll be converting your door from swinging to rolling mode, youll need to remove thedoor and hinges. Youll also have to remove theexisting handle and reinstall it centered on the door.If your hardware mounts from the backside, installit before attaching the door (Photo 6, p. 48).

SUBTRACT 1/2"FROM CABINET

OPENING TODETERMINE

PANTRY UNITWIDTH

SHELF UNITHEIGHT (MINUSDEPTH OF TOP

BRACKET)

PLYWOODFLANGES

1x3 TOPGLIDE

SUPPORT

TOPGLIDE

FACEFRAME

AND DOORHINGES

REMOVED

PLYWOODFILLER

BOTTOMGLIDES

5


TOP OF FRAMEOPENING


The key measurements and clearances:Roll-out unit measurements. The ply-

wood front and back panels should beabout 1/8 in. shorter than the distancebetween the installed top and bottom glides(Photos 1 and 2). The width of the unitshould be 1/2 in. narrower than the cabinetopening. The depth of the unit should be1/2 in. less than the depth of the cabinet(not including the face frame).

Accuride Pantry slides (No. 91968) areavailable for $57.99 plus shipping fromRockler Woodworking and Hardware,4365 Willow Dr., Medina, MN 55340-9701; (800) 279-4441. www.rockler.com

3ASSEMBLE the pantry trays using 1x4s, 1x3s, 6dnails and carpenters glue. Use the plywood bot-toms to square up the trays before nailing themon. L-moldings support and cover the plywood edges ofthe upper two trays; 3/4-in. screen molding covers theexposed plywood edges of the bottom tray.

4SECURE the trays to the 1/2-in. plywood uprightsusing glue and drywall screws. Arrange the spac-ing of the trays to meet your needs.


1x4

6dFINISHNAIL

1/2"PLYWOODBOTTOM

3/4" SCREEN

MOLDING 1/2" PLYWOODUPRIGHT

2" COARSE-THREAD DRYWALL

SCREWS INTOENDS OF 1x3s

AND 1x4s

1" DRYWALLSCREWS

FIG. DROLL-OUT PANTRY CABINET

PANTRYBOTTOMGLIDES

PLYWOODFILLER

EXISTING CABINETFACE FRAME

EXISTING CABINETBOTTOM

1/2" PLYWOODUPRIGHT

TOPGLIDE

1x3

1x3 TOPGLIDE

SUPPORT

1/2" PLYWOOD

1x3

L-MOLDING

3/4" SCREENMOLDING

EXISTINGCABINET

DOOR

BOTTOM GLIDE

Shelf unit dimensions will vary according to cabinet size.

1x4


6CLAMP the cabinet door to the front of thepantry assembly; center it and make the heighteven with adjacent doors. Predrill eight holesthrough the plywood upright and drive screws into theback of the cabinet door. After installing two screws,close the door to check its alignment with the adjacentdoors. Make adjustments, then install the remainingscrews. Use short screws so they dont penetrate thefront of the cabinet door (duh!).

5SCREW the tray assembly to the bottom runners,making sure its centered in the opening and runningparallel to the cabinet sides. The extended portion ofthe top slide is secured to a 1x3 screwed between the twoplywood uprights. You can loosen this 1x3, then adjust theheight so the top glide runs flat and smooth.

TOP GLIDESECURED TO 1x3 SUPPORT

BRACKET-TO-SHELF UNIT

SCREWS

SPRINGCLAMPS

About our kitchen

Allure stainless steel

vent hood from Broan,

(800) 558-17111x6 tongue-and-groove pine

(Sherwin-Williams paint, Moon Slice, No. 1647)

1x3 backsplash

ledge(site-built)

Gallery stainless steelstove from Frigidaire,

(800) 374-4432

3" x 3" blocks withwings (site-built)

Piermont maple cabinets with

honey spice finishfrom Kraftmaid, (888) 562-7744

Ruby laminate cork floor from Wicander, ($9.75 per sq. ft.),www.wicanders.com/wic_us.html

Gilded Elements EM2-2T laminatefrom Nevamar, (800) 638-4380

Pendant light fixture (and cabinet hardware)

from Restoration Hardware,(800) 762-1005

Molding (Sherwin-Williams paint,

Yorkshire Brown, No. 1097)

PLYWOODUPRIGHT

Art Direction BECKY PFLUGERPhotography BILL ZUEHLKEIllustration FRANK ROHRBACHKitchen Design KATHERINE HILLBRAND,

SALA ARCHITECTS

Hartland sinkfrom Kohler,

(800) 456-4537

Faucet (N470-WH)from Delta,

(317) 848-1812

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