July 2014

The Skinny on Newts Making a Splash in Billtown Our Maestro Conducts with Sole

FREEas the wind

TAKE A BITE OUT

OF SUMMER

More great food finds in the last great place

By Our Hungry Staff

JULY 2014

Indigo

Bill & Shirley Hebe

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Volume 9 Issue 7

Mother EarthBy Gayle MorrowMinding your ’manders.

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Take a Bite Out of SummerBy Teresa Banik Capuzzo, Maxwell Black, Michael Capuzzo, Cindy Davis Meixel, Olivia Hall, Cornelius O’Donnell, and Amy PackardMore great food finds in the last great place.

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Making a SplashBy Linda RollerFamily-owned for over fifty years, Williamsport’s PDC Spas crafts a lifestyle.

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Cover by Tucker Worthington; Cover photo by Suzan Richar. (This page from top): by Suzan Richar; by Kerry Wixted; by Cindy Davis Meixel; and by Sarah Wagaman.

Conducting with SoleBy Cornelius O’DonnellMaestro Stephen Gunzenhauser cooks up a classic.

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All Aboard...

SCENIC EXCURSIONS, DININg & ThEMED TRAINSMAY - OCTOBERExperienceTioga County

TIOGA CENTRAL

RAILROADPhone: (570)724-0990 Web: TiogaCentral.com

ABOUT US: Mountain Home is the award-winning regional magazine of PA and NY with more than 100,000 readers. The magazine has been published monthly, since 2005, by Beagle Media, LLC, 25 Main St., 2nd Floor, Wellsboro, Pennsylvania, 16901, and online at www.mountainhomego.com. Copyright © 2010 Beagle Media, LLC. All rights reserved. E-mail story ideas to [email protected], or call (570) 724-3838.

TO ADVERTISE: E-mail [email protected], or call us at (570) 724-3838.

AWARDS: Mountain Home has won 63 international and statewide jour-nalism awards from the Pennsylvania NewsMedia Association and the International Regional Magazine Association for excellence in writing, photography, and design. DISTRIBUTION: Mountain Home is available “Free as the Wind” at hundreds of locations in Tioga, Potter, Bradford, Lycoming, Union, and Clinton counties in PA and Steuben, Chemung, Schuyler, Yates, Seneca, Tioga, and Ontario counties in NY.

SUBSCRIPTIONS: For a one-year subscription (12 issues), send $24.95, payable to Beagle Media LLC, 25 Main St., 2nd Floor, Wellsboro, PA 16901 or visit www.mountainhomego.com.

E d i t o r s & P u b l i s h E r sTeresa Banik Capuzzo

Michael Capuzzo A s s o c i A t E P u b l i s h E r s

Dawn Bilder George Bochetto, Esq.

d E s i g n & P h o t o g r A P h yElizabeth Young, Editor

Tucker Worthington, Cover Design

c o n t r i b u t i n g W r i t E r s Angela Cannon-Crothers, Patricia Brown Davis, Alison Fromme,

Holly Howell, George Jansson, McKennaugh Kelley, Roger Kingsley, Adam Mahonske, Cindy Davis Meixel, Fred Metarko, Dave

Milano, Gayle Morrow, Cornelius O’Donnell, Roger Neumann, Gregg Rinkus, Linda Roller, Kathleen Thompson, Joyce M. Tice

c o n t r i b u t i n g P h o t o g r A P h E r s Mia Lisa Anderson, Bill Crowell, Bruce Dart, Ann Kamzelski, Ken Meyer, Tina Tolins, Sarah Wagaman, Curt Weinhold, Terry Wild

s A l E s r E P r E s E n t A t i v E sBrian Earle

Michael BanikLinda Roller

A d m i n i s t r A t i v E A s s i s t A n tAmy Packard

E d i t o r i A l i n t E r nMaxwell Black

t h E b E A g l ECosmo (1996-2014)

Yogi (Assistant)

www.mountainhomemag.com

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What makes your mouth water? Sample Our Menu of Choices!

Take a Bite Out of Summer

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Clockwise from top left: Atwater’s award-winning North Block Six Cabernet Franc; Brad Goodwin with his signature pulled pork sandwich; white sangria and limoncello at The Stone-house; the fried ice cream at Ozzie & Mae’s Hacienda.

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What makes your mouth water? Sample Our Menu of Choices!

Take a Bite Out of Summer

How we picked them: Mountain Home writers and editors Teresa Banik Capuzzo, Maxwell Black, Michael Capuzzo, Cindy Davis Meixel, Olivia Hall, Cornelius O’Donnell, and Amy Packard roamed far and wide over northern Pennsylvania and southern New York finding delectable things to eat and drink.

Atwater Estate Vineyards5055 State Rte. 414, Burdett, NY (607) 546-8463

According to Atwater winemaker Vinny Aliperti, “The vintage 2012 North Block Six is the most expressive Cab Franc we’ve ever made.” Expressive enough, it turns out, to have won a unanimous gold at the Riverside International Wine Competition this year. Cabernet franc is a grape that loves the Finger Lakes, and we love it back. So we thrilled as we sipped it at a tasting. But it wasn’t until we poured it next to a fresh red sauce on pasta that it blew our socks off. This is one of those “Why am I telling this to thousands of people?” moments, because the truth is the stash of 2012 North Block is not long for this vineyard. But I, for one, will be keeping an eye on this block of grapes. ~ TBC

See Take a Bite Out of Summer on page 10

More great food finds in the last great place

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Scott Walker, 570-295-1083

Bum Steer105 S. Buffalo St., Elkland, PA

(570) 258-5142 While the name may conjure up images of disgruntled cattle, the Bum Steer in Elkland has surely tamed that fair beast. Their hot roast beef sandwich is testament to that. A mound of juicy beef thinly cut in house, along with sautéed onions sandwiched between Texas-toast-style bread would be more than enough to make this sandwich worth the trek to Elkland. It’s the twist on the classic roast beef sandwich—the addition of fresh cut tomato, lettuce, and a zesty pepper-relish—that really sets this sandwich apart. The intense umami of the beef, beef so juicy that it almost soaks through the bread, is pleasingly cut by the tomato and piquant relish. The expertly balanced yin and yang of flavors makes this a sandwich that does more than exceeds expectations, it trumps them. ~ MB

The Copper Oven6800 New York 89, Ovid, NY

(607) 220-8794 The first thing you’ll notice as you approach The Copper Oven is the warm metallic glow of its eponymous cooking implement, parked right outside the door. As the story goes, Mary Jane Challen-Kircher acquired the Le Panyol as part of a deal with her husband Seth: he was going to build a wood-fired sauna in their backyard, and she answered, “Not until I get a wood-fired oven.” Today the remarkable heat-retaining qualities of its white kaolinic clays from Provence give wafer-thin pizzas—topped with “hyperlocal” meats, vegetables, and cheeses from surrounding towns and villages—their crunchy crust and just the right amount of char. Pair them with a fresh salad or one of the cheese and charcuterie boards for a leisurely meal on the outdoor deck overlooking Cayuga Ridge Estate Winery, run by Mary Jane’s parents.

Take a Bite Out of Summer continued from page 9


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Owlett’s Farm Store We have trophy rocks, salt licks, mineral supplements for antler development, and shelled corn.

Bulk foods available for campers and visitors

Phone: 570-376-2351 • Fax: 570-376-2977 • Email: [email protected]

10987 State Rte 287Wellsboro, PA 16901

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And a name like “Nutella Foreva’” should convince anyone that there’s still room for one of the sweet dessert flatbreads from the short but satisfying menu. ~ OH

Cuba Cheese + TimeRon Osgood (814) 228-3563

Originally from Cuba, New York, a local city famous for its cheese curds, Ron Osgood and Frank Grom are aging some of the best cheddar around. Lily white, with slices that crackle when cut, this cheese is not something to be messed around with. Its bite is bracing, and pairs incredibly well with some oil-preserved sun-dried tomatoes perched atop a cracker. It also proves to be a feisty companion to a Finger Lakes Riesling. Beware, however, of getting too complicated, as this is a cheese you’ll want to appreciate on its own.

This cheese is only by special order, though, and can be bought from Ron. ~ MB

Dano’s9564 Route 414, Lodi, NY

(607) 582-7555 Step into Dano’s and beyond the spacious entry you’ll see the soaring ceiling that arches over the dining space below. Before you move down to your table note the refrigerated cases on your left. Set in gleaming white serving dishes are the various hors d’oeuvre/first courses this Austrian oasis offers. If I were you I’d ask for samples of at least four or five—to share when you get to your table. I always go for my two favorites: Liptauer cheese and celery root remoulade. The former is a smooth mixture of butter, cream cheese, anchovy, caraway seeds, capers,

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No Competition: the wings at Williamsport’s Rivals Sports Bar.

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The Valley (Sayre, Athens, & Waverly)WELCOME TO

“Mind the ’mander!” That’s what we say when we’re mountain biking and one of those adorable coral-

colored spotted salamanders is crossing the trail. They are the most precious things, with their miniscule, perfectly formed toes and their tiny, thrashing tails. I can’t tell you the number of times I’ve almost wrecked trying to avoid the little darlings. I was never sure, however, if what I was seeing was a newt or a salamander, so I thought I should do a little research and get my facts straight. It turns out that newts are a subgroup of salamanders. Just as all squares are rectangles but not all rectangles are squares, all newts are salamanders but not all salamanders are newts. The red spotted newt is what we typically see here in the woods or the yard; it is in the “eft” or terrestrial juvenile stage. Newts are typically an aquatic amphibian, but there are terrestrial newts as well as aquatic salamanders. Most, if not all, return to the water to breed. The aquatic larvae can regenerate limbs, eyes, and other body parts—how helpful is that! Salamanders are predators, eating insects, worms, and spiders. The newts’ bright coloring is a warning to other predators that there are toxins in its skin. If you’re a person who just has to pick them up and marvel at them (I am), don’t worry too much. As long as their skin secretions don’t come in contact with our own mucous membranes and we wash our hands after handling, all is well. Just be gentle as their skin is thin and sensitive. That quality makes them, along with other amphibians, useful as bioindicators, meaning they can clue us in when things are not going well environmentally. Their presence or absence can indicate the health of an ecosystem. In Europe and the United Kingdom, where newt populations are declining due to pollution and habitat destruction, the powers-that-be are taking steps to rectify the situation. A couple of final facts on salamanders and newts: there is a whole section in Wikipedia about the origin of the word “newt” which I found particularly fascinating and, if you are a word lover, you might, too. The “eft” term, for instance, is a derivation of something from Old or Middle English. And there are no ’manders in Australia or Antarctica.

Gayle Morrow, former editor of The Wellsboro Gazette, cooks locally, and organically, at the West End Market Café. Gayle recently won another Keystone Press Award for her columns.

Mother EarthMinding Your ’Manders

By Gayle Morrow

Nic

hola

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SeeTake a Bite Out of Summer on page 18


and Hungarian sweet paprika. You won’t easily taste the anchovy. It provides the salt for the dish. The celery root is peeled and shredded or cut into tiny matchstick pieces and then tossed with the remoulade sauce. The latter is a delicious mix of mayonnaise, finely chopped gherkins, Dijon mustard, capers, lemon zest, and tarragon. Of course there is the lentil salad or the roasted beets with horseradish, or maybe the red pepper spread or the… Main dishes delight as well, especially the goulash or the farmer’s plate: pork shank, knockwurst, and smoked pork on sauerkraut. It’s all flavorful, and mixed drinks made with locally distilled ingredients, the best area wines, and brews made in the Finger Lakes make great accompaniments. Save room for the house-made desserts. The strudel is heaven-sent. ~ CO

Florida Fryed Chicken17467 Route 287, Tioga, PA (570) 625-0011

As regular readers of Mountain Home will know, Gary Morey and Bonnie Schroeder misspelled “fried” to pique your curiosity and trick you into their warm abode, but they needn’t have. The eponymous chicken more than suffices. Tender and warm beneath a light coating of fried goodness, the chicken is expertly cooked. It maintains a delicate juiciness that serves only to make this chicken easy, if not a little bit too easy, to chow down on. Served with a variety of sides, like potato salad, sweet potatoes, and coleslaw, this chicken calls to mind the sultry heat of the South, and the décor only enhances that atmosphere. There are few things more strictly American than eating delicious fried chicken from a paper plate with plastic cutlery on a hot day, and there’s nowhere better to spend a summer afternoon. ~ MB

Fulkerson Winery5576 Route 14, Dundee, NY (607) 243-7883

The Fulkerson family staked a claim on this land in 1805, and this month they celebrate the twenty-five years since Sayre Fulkerson—the sixth generation to farm this land since Revolutionary War veteran Caleb Fulkerson turned the first shovel on this ground—turned to grape growing. And from all this old comes something new as well, as the Fulkersons grow the hybrid Traminette, developed at Cornell in the ’60s from Herb C. Barrett’s magical mix of a French American hybrid crossed with the classic Vitas vinifera Gewürztraminer. Dry to semi-dry, this grape nonetheless packs such a knockout front end of floral that it can satisfy taste buds tuned to the sweet side as well. It is the taste of summer itself. ~ TBC

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WELLSBOROWELCOME TO

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Nocchi’s Hoagie Stand445 N. Keystone Ave., Sayre, PA

(570) 888-2267 What’s the secret of the oil? I ask this question of the young lady at Nocchi’s who has just served me what is likely the tastiest cheeseburger hoagie I have ever eaten. And I ask this question innocently, as I figure I will try to replicate this aromatic mixture, which reminds me of the spicing of a gyro (there’s garlic in here for sure—and maybe oregano?). “It’s a secret,” she replies matter-of-factly. “Bob stirs it up downstairs, and locks it in a closet. We are not even allowed to get it ourselves. Bob brings it for us.” Now that is a secret sauce. ~ TBC

Ozzie & Mae’s Hacienda43 W. 4th St., Williamsport, PA

(570) 322-8141 Some secrets are meant to be kept. Some secrets are meant to be

shared. I was reluctant to take the Mountain Home publishers to the site of my favorite dessert in Williamsport. What if they wanted to include the dessert in their “Fabulous Food Finds” issue? What if the dessert started to sell like hotcakes and I could never get it again? Alas, since I adore the publishers as much as the creators of this dessert, I suggested they follow me to Ozzie & Mae’s Hacienda, in center city Billtown. There, we fell silent (except for oohs and aahs) as we indulged in the Mexican restaurant’s signature fried ice cream—a delightful concoction of vanilla (or chocolate) ice cream served atop cinnamon-sprinkled dessert tortillas, with drizzles of honey and chocolate and caramel sauces (and one secret ingredient that Mae is keeping to herself ). Mae and her husband Ozzie opened this authentic Mexican eatery nine years ago. After the birth of their daughter, they were looking to move away from the hectic life of the Philadelphia suburbs into

a quieter locale. Serendipitously, the couple found this sweet spot tucked in the quiet hills of Pennsylvania. Some of life’s sweetest secrets are meant to be discovered. ~ CDM

PanAsia 18-22 W. Market St., Corning, NY

(607) 936-6300 Stepping into the new PanAsia restaurant at 18-22 Market Street in Corning is like stepping into eateries in Tokyo, Bangkok, Seoul, or Peking. This spacious eatery with a semi-exposed kitchen and large serving staff—all done up in black—has a most impressive menu. There is something here for everyone. The knowledgeable staff will guide you to unfamiliar tastes and flavor combinations. Afraid of food being too hot (spice-wise)? Never fear. They will advise. Often the chef-owner, Craig Wilson, will be roaming the floor and will help introduce you to his amazing foods. (The Web site will give you

Car classes range from

1939 to present. Car types

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Saturday, July 26, 2014Liberty High School, T ioga County

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SeeTake a Bite Out of Summer on page 20


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Car classes range from

1939 to present. Car types

range from sports cars,

custom r ides, rat rod class,

3 Mustang classes, to tractors.

Saturday, July 26, 2014Liberty High School, T ioga County

8:30 AM to 4:00PM

Registration: 8:30 AM to 4:00 PM - $10

Pre-Registrat ion: $8

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Mountain Home 1/3 page – 4.9w x 4.84h

Come join us for the 13th Annual

HICKORY FEST “Music in the Canyon”

August 15-17, 2014 Stony Fork Creek Campground

Wellsboro, PA

3 Days of Great Music & Crafts in the Beautiful PA Grand Canyon Benefitting

the Tioga Chapter of the American Cancer Society

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17 EXCITING ACTS !!! CLAIRE LYNCH BAND•VERLON

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information on his extensive cooking experience.) I say amazing food because everything we sampled was just plain delicious (although I wasn’t wild about the red bean ice cream—but my companion loved it and I must admit I finished it!). I liked the small plates and mixing three or four of those to form a meal. On another visit I may choose from a list of what we called spring rolls (six variations) or the ten “speciality” rolls including a “Corning Roll,” filled with cucumber, red pepper, squash, asparagus, and cream cheese. The combinations are fun to read—and delicious. Then there is the sushi and sashimi. Holy moley! Light eaters and vegetarians might opt for a dish of edamame (soy beans) topped with Seneca Lake salt, and there are ten different noodles and ramen plates. The bar is on one side of the dining room and, while they serve traditional cocktails, you may want to try a Lycheetini: lychee vodka (who knew?), cognac, and peach juice. Or a Sakitini with sake, tangerine vodka, Cointreau, and an orange garnish. This newcomer is already a favorite. ~ CO

Peter Herdic House407 W. 4th St., Williamsport, PA

(570) 322-0165 The term “Blue Plate Special” started to become common in America in the late 1920s and gained avid followers during The Great Depression. Of course, an inexpensive, full meal never goes out of style and one area fine dining restaurant has chosen to put its own luxurious spin on the blue plate. The Peter Herdic House restaurant in Williamsport’s Millionaires’ Row historic district offers a $10 Blue Plate Special ever Wednesday night. While traditional American comfort food is often included as part of the varying weekly presentation, Herdic House’s blue plate also offers more sophisticated fare. Organic fettuccine tossed with wild-caught salmon, asparagus, and


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lemon cream; grilled Korean BBQ-marinated tenderloin tips served over a radish and arugula slaw with spicy avocado cream and tomato-ginger salsa; and wild mushroom and asparagus risotto finished with grilled local shiitake mushrooms and brie are a few of the recent Herdic specials. Liz Miele, executive chef, says she began offering the popular specials five years ago, and it typically sells out each Wednesday. As with her other creations, Miele enjoys incorporating seasonal produce and local meats into the special. Of course, the current garden season abounds with options and she says, “I’m always overbuying at the farmers market, so it’s a great way to pass fresh, local ingredients on to our customers.” That sounds like a blue bon appétit! ~ CDM

Pleasant Valley Inn7979 New York 54,

Hammondsport, NY (607) 569-2282 What’s in a name? Well, at this Inn, “pleasant” describes the surroundings inside and out. This landmark is about halfway on the main road between Bath and Hammondsport. You can’t miss the mid-nineteenth century pink-hued Italianate farmhouse surrounded by rolling hills and vineyards. It’s also a B&B with access to a classic porch alive with rocking chairs plus an adjacent stone patio. Tom and Marianne Simmons have owned the place since 1991, and they have kept the high-ceiling and flocked-wallpapered dining rooms as they were when the house was built. Candlelight dinners in these airy spaces are a delight. Marianne is the chef and Tom is the “front man” conjuring drinks in the cozy and rough-beamed bar and seating patrons. We like to have a pre-dinner drink at the entry/bar well ahead of our reservation (a must here) and study the chalkboard’s listing of the evening specials. Tom makes delicious mixed drinks and has carefully chosen the wines for their impressive list. He is also an adept hand in the


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EXPLORE A TROPICAL PARADISE

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kitchen during prep time. An experienced wait staff will enhance your evening. Marianne respects the high quality of her ingredients, featuring locally sourced foodstuffs whenever possible. Her cooking respects their natural taste and goodness. The simplicity pays off—the food, and the wine, are exceptional. (Lamb is a specialty—and is perfectly cooked.) The Inn is open for dinner from May through October. I might add that off-season the owners usually visit other countries to pick up ideas. A couple of years ago they were so delighted with the food in Spain, that marcona almonds, Manchego cheese, goat-cheese-stuffed piquillo peppers, and marinated olives appeared on their menu. Go. I promise you will enjoy this upscale place. ~ CO

Red Skillet99 Main St., Wellsboro, PA (570) 787-4545

The Red Skillet sandwich is a doozy. It’s been called extravagant, luxurious, and the more pious (I count myself among them) might even call it sinful. Their concoction, succulent pulled pork doused in a homemade barbecue sauce that’s full of tang with just a hint of sweetness, placed under a crisp, healthy portion of coleslaw, and slapped into a brioche bun, is a sandwich fit for royalty. For those kings or queens whose love of food borders on hedonism, the Red Skillet will happily add bacon to your order. We recommend an accomplished cardiologist to go with this sandwich, but it’s eminently worth it. Better yet, a psychologist, because this sandwich will drive you wild. The Red Skillet has two locations: a food truck located in the parking lot behind Ginn & Vickery, and a fresh-made food stand that can be found at the Wired Rooster. ~ MB

The Red Skillet also offers up a great side order to their sandwiches: their version of a common Canadian dish called poutine. The dish consists of fresh cut French fries covered with a pan-seared gravy and cheese curds, and while it is not uncommon to have fries with gravy, the fresh cheese curds add an entirely pleasant twist for your taste buds. ~ AP

Rico’s Pizza371 W. Morris St., Bath, NY (607) 622-6033;

92 W. Market St., Corning, NY (607) 962-2300; 2162 Grand Central Ave. Horseheads, NY (607) 796-2200 Much of the pizza pride we feel in America is thanks to New York and its storied Italian heritage. New Yorkers make sure their pizza is thin, wide, and exceptionally foldable. This can engender a tendency to gobble, and while that may be the way to eat many an American pie, you’re going to want to savor the ricotta and broccoli pizza at Rico’s Pizza. With fluffy mounds of ricotta whose peaks are lightly browned, and an



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B I L L T O W N

The picture on the PDC Spas Web site is the very epitome of luxury: a beautiful, bubbling

hot tub; a handsome young couple; a redwood deck with a panoramic view of lush mountains. And it is, in fact, a completely homegrown image, right down to the hot tub nestled in those Lycoming County mountains. PDC Spas and three generations of Livingston family entrepreneurial spirit created that tub. The seeds of the now-international business were sown over fifty years ago in a Williamsport fabrication company, Plastic Development Company, founded by David Livingston, Sr. For Dave Sr., Plastic Development was a second job, as he also worked for

PP&L. In those early days, PDC made fiberglass sides for pools, bodies for Jeeps, burial vaults, and other special jobs for people in the area. The little shop was busy, and by the 1970s his son, Dave Livingston, Jr., was involved, too. While teaching business in the Loyalsock School District and fabricating with his dad as a second job, Dave Jr. saw the potential in warm water spas in the late 1970s. And so he began manufacturing gel coat and fiberglass spas to meet a growing demand. By 1981, PDC had invested all its resources in producing spas for the Northeast, and Dave Jr. left his teaching career behind. That leap of faith was tested almost immediately, as a devastating fire leveled

the business in 1983. Undeterred, Dave and his wife Lynda, PDC Spas vice president, rebuilt, and in 1984 moved to their present location. It was a much larger building, and Lynda says that back then they could not imagine ever filling the space. But it has been a phoenix ever rising, and since then they have added onto the building multiple times, with a current expansion bringing the size of the plant to over 80,000 square feet. They developed new manufacturing techniques, designing a stronger, better unit. The company purchased and programmed a robot that is precise enough for their exacting standards, and flexible enough to drill the holes needed

Making a SplashFamily-Owned for Over Fifty Years, Williamsport’s PDC Spas Crafts a Lifestyle

By Linda Roller

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PDC Spas owners Dave and Lynda Livingston model a swim spa in their Williamsport showroom.

See Making a Splash on page 27

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in a myriad of spa styles. Tim Martin, vice president of sales for PDC, explains the difference in PDC’s manufacturing process, part of the drive and vision that led the company to grow from a Northeast manufacturer to a worldwide leader in spas. In essence, each spa is custom built for the user. The buyer selects a finish, size, style package, and the spa is made as ordered. The acrylic shell is shaped on a mold, then strengthened with adhesive and fiberglass, which is hand rolled for maximum durability. Then the robot drills the holes for jets, an air massage system, and controls, after which the plumbing, motors, electronics, insulation, and cabinetry are installed by hand. The shipping area is full of the customized spas whose shipping wrap is emblazoned with the buyers’ last names, ready to go home. The quality control and water testing happens right on the production line. The factory floor feels more like a workshop of experienced craftsmen than an assembly line. Tim says that as a ten-year employee, he is one of the “young ones,” since many of PDC’s employees have been with the company for decades. When asked why the company has continued to manufacture in Williamsport, both Lynda and Tim say that a large part of that decision is the dedication and attention to detail of the people who create the spas. Three years ago, in the midst of a deep recession, Dave and Lynda took another leap, this time into the manufacturing of swim spas. These larger units combine the exercise benefits of a pool with the relaxation and hydrotherapy of a spa. When asked about the move, Lynda notes that an aging population will invest in swim spas for the health benefits and the ability to use a heated hot tub year round in most climates, making them a bigger value for people in colder parts of the world. This type of spa takes even more custom drilling and fitting by the production staff, but they have excelled in bringing the new line to life. So much so that within two years PDC was the largest seller of swim spas in the country, with the plant currently manufacturing over twelve units a week and the capacity to expand as demand increases. The future looks bright for PDC, as yet another generation of Livingstons—son Chad Livingston—took his business degree and knowledge gained in his work in the family business into the foundation of a new business in 2010, NORtech Energy Solutions. Like his parents, he is finding manufacturing answers to problems—in Chad’s case, solutions for the burgeoning gas industry. It’s a long way from the small fabrication plant, and a fitting tribute to a long line of entrepreneurs and craftsmen.

Mountain Home contributor Linda Roller is a book seller, appraiser, and writer in Avis, Pennsylvania.

WILLIAMSPORTWELCOME TO

Making a Splash continued from page 25

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intense saltiness from its mixture of broccoli and garlic, all piled on a thin crackling crust, this may not be the food to eat before stealing a kiss from your sweetheart. Even so, if you can forgo romance for an afternoon or evening, this pizza is well worth it. Who knows, you might even fall in love. ~ MB

Rivals Sports Bar420 River Ave., Williamsport, PA

(570) 322-8980 One word: wings. The staple food of bars and parties, everyone has his or her favorite flavor. A recent dinner with my sister introduced me to the wings at Rivals. While the bar looks like your favorite watering hole on your weekly night out, complete with six or seven televisions airing every game possible, the wings should be your focus. Ranging from BBQ to

teriyaki to “southern dynamite,” there’s sure to be a sauce to catch your eye. But my sister ordered two plates of the teriyaki before I could even take it all in. I had never had teriyaki on anything, so my expectations were low. To say I was pleasantly surprised is an understatement I am proud to admit. From the sweet taste of the teriyaki and the crunch of the skin to the drippings left at the bottom of the plate—which are perfect to dip into with a side of fries—these wings had me at first bite. ~ AP

Straub Brewery303 Sorg St., St. Marys, PA

(814) 834-2875 Pennsylvania’s Route 6 is one of America’s most scenic highways according to National Geographic. But the view is even rosier when you stop at the Straub Brewery in St. Marys

for a free golden sip from the Eternal Tap. Yep, an hour or so west and south of Coudersport (a short hop off 6 through Emporium), the small, charming brewery founded by German immigrant Peter Straub in 1872 will give you a tour. Or, Monday through Friday during the main office hours of 9-4:30, you can just go right to the tap, chat with the village regulars, and draw yourself a complimentary glass or two of the sweet-nutty American Amber, the lager, or whatever else is flowing—hand-crafted, fresh, and free—that day. Aside from the usual cautions of roadway laws and etiquette, there’s only one rule: wash the glass for the next traveler. ~ MC

Tioga Central Railroad9 Muck Rd., Wellsboro, PA

(570) 724-0990 The giant Genesee & Wyoming


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Roll out the dessert: Tiramisu on the Tioga Central Railroad.

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railroad, with offices in Connecticut and Rochester, New York, owns 112 short line freight railroads in the United States, Canada, Australia, the Netherlands, and Belgium, but only one passenger railroad in the world—the small, charming Tioga Central Railroad (TCR) at the Wellsboro Junction outside Wellsboro (pop. 3,000 give or take a few). That alone excites train buffs, but for the rest of us meandering through the county’s idyllic green hills, lakes, and streams on the TCR’s burgundy-painted dining train for two or three hours while enjoying a gourmet, white-tablecloth meal is an experience not to be missed. Our dining car formerly was hitched to the Dixie Flyer, a train on the legendary Chicago-to-Florida “Dixie Route,” so the scrumptious half a roast chicken

with Alabama white sauce (a gentle mayo sauce from ’bama’s long barbeque tradition) seemed fitting. Talented chef Shannon Mosher picked that one up while cooking in northern Alabama.Shannon also boasts a pull-behind smoker in which he does the rotisserie chicken before loading it onto the gleaming steel train-car kitchen where the rest of the real cooking gets done while the chef is rocking down the rails. The mashed potatoes pleased my Polish, tater-fussy bride, and the side veggies were fresh summer locals—carrots, cabbage, and zucchini—with a tasty bite of black pepper. The strawberries, barely sugared, rested on an unsweetened buttermilk biscuit under fresh whipped cream for a hard-to-find dessert: a throwback strawberry shortcake, classic as a summer train. The Saturday night

dinner train is $45 for adults, plus wine or a can of beer for $3 apiece. ~ MC

The Stonehouse Wood Fired Pizza & Pasteria

343 Pine St., Williamsport, PA (570) 322-3344

The last time I had homemade limoncello on a restaurant terrace was over a decade and a half ago, on our honeymoon in Italy. The proprietor, learning that we were writers, started plying us with the sweet stuff, hoping we would write about him. And I guess he was right, because Papa Roche’s Limoncello at the Stonehouse Wood Fired Pizza & Pasteria in Williamsport took us back to that sweet night. Limoncello is made of lemons, vodka


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Once, in an Iron Chef kind of competition I was judging in the early 1980s, in the

beautiful ballroom at the Hotel DuPont in Wilmington, Delaware, Stephen Gunzenhauser, then music director of the Delaware Symphony—now the maestro of the summer Endless Mountain Music Festival in the Twin Tiers and of the Lancaster Symphony Orchestra—and his wife Shelly prepared “Vivaldi.” A scrumptious dish they called “Fillet of Sole Vivaldi,” that is, not any of the composer’s musical pieces. It was a “Gourmet Galas” competition that Corning Inc. sponsored as a major benefit in cities around the country for the March of Dimes. Corning’s charity efforts had moved from staging lavish fashion shows (imagine Salvador Dali doing the March of Dimes sets way back when, which he did!) to asking distinguished members of the community (who had reputations as good cooks) to whip up their favorite

dish for the black-tie-clad partygoers—and about five food-expert judges. I conducted some 140 of these philanthropic cooking contests for Corning from coast to coast, but this one in Wilmington was especially memorable. Who knew thirty years later I’d come to personally know Stephen and Shelly and enjoy the maestro’s brilliant concerts in my home territory every summer for the Endless Mountain Music Festival? Back then, I was conducting the affair, and he was nervously waiting to be judged. In the heat of the contest, I sampled his Fillet of Sole Vivaldi with the other judges—the likes of Craig Claiborne (then the food editor of the New York Times), Chicago-based cookbook author William Rice, and Town and Country magazine food writer Jim Villas. All of us loved Fillet of Sole Vivaldi! I presented Stephen the award. He hasn’t forgotten that moment—or the recipe, which I’ve included below.

I talked with Shelly and Stephen about how they got started cooking and how they cook together. In Stephen’s case, he remembers beginning to cook when he was about thirteen in his family’s Queens, New York, kitchen. He helped out, paying close attention to what his mother was cooking. Beef roulade was a family favorite. He also managed to take home economics classes while in junior high school and then went on to New York City’s prestigious High School of Music and Art and all the while learning to master the clarinet as well as the knobs on the stove. Shelly (full name Rochelle) also gravitated to the kitchen as a young woman growing up in New Jersey. She is a registered nurse who nurtured a love for the New York Philharmonic and saw every Bernstein-conducted concert she could. She and Stephen met in December of 1969 and had so much in common—including music—that they

F O O D & D R I N K

Conducting with SoleBy Cornelius O'Donnell

Maestro Stephen Gunzenhauser Cooks up a Classic

See Conducting with Sole on page 32

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were married by June. And today they make a dynamic cooking duo. The sole recipe they collaborated on back in the 80s became their “go to” dish when time for cooking was limited. You’ll see why when you read—and I hope cook—this dish. If you’re a music buff you’ll also appreciate that the sole is poached in a delicious tomato sauce, as Vivaldi, who was born in Venice in 1678, had red hair. Meanwhile, don’t forget to get a taste of Gunzenhauser’s better-known work, including music by Copland, Mozart, Brahms, Dvorak, Gershwin, and a performance by India’s superstar violinist L. Subramaniam. Go to the inside front cover of this issue of Mountain Home to check out the Endless Mountain Music Festival’s astonishing schedule this summer of fifteen concerts in sixteen days, from July 26 to August 10 in venues from Wellsboro to Corning. To hear the talented orchestral players from around the world under the baton of the Grammy-nominated Gunzenhauser, the fifth most-recorded American conductor, is truly special, and also a bargain!

The Gunzenhausers’ Fillet of Sole Vivaldi

Now, if the Gunzenhausers could cook this over a hot plate on a table on the balcony outside the Hotel DuPont ballroom, this is not only doable for any cook but it is quick and savory.

1 c. thinly sliced un-blanched almonds ¼ c. extra-virgin olive oil ½ c. chopped onion ½ tsp. chopped garlic 2 (8 oz.) cans tomato sauce ½ c. water, preferably bottled ½ c. dry white wine 2 bay leaves 1-½ tsp. chopped fresh basil leaves ¾ tsp. salt ½ tsp. sugar 1/8 tsp. freshly ground pepper

6 fillets of sole 1/3 c. milk Hot fluffy cooked rice Dash of curry powder Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Cut parchment paper to fit a baking sheet and spread the nuts in a single layer. Place in the preheated oven, toast, stirring often, until lightly browned. Remove from the oven and shake onto a dry surface and let cool. Heat the oil in a heavy skillet on medium and add the onion. Sauté until softened and add the garlic. Cook, stirring, for another minute or until the garlic is fragrant. Stir in the tomato sauce, water, wine, bay leaves, basil, sugar, and pepper. Cover and simmer on low about 45 minutes. Uncover and remove the pan from the heat. Add the toasted nuts to a blender or food processor and finely chop using the on/off pulse. Do not over process; stop the machine when the nuts are just finely chopped. Soak the sole fillets in the milk for about 15 minutes and then drain them and pat dry. With your fingers spread the almond mixture on one side of each fillet. Add remaining chopped nuts to the tomato-based sauce. Roll the fillets with the almond side in, and arrange the rolls seam side down in the sauce in the skillet, spooning a little of it over the fish rolls. Cover and return the pan to the heat. Simmer 15 minutes until the fish is snowy white and flakes easily. Meanwhile prepare the rice. When the rice is cooked toss it with the curry powder. Serve the roulades in the center of the rice and spoon the sauce over the fish. This serves 6. I suppose you can use a baton to fluff the rice. I must ask the Gunzenhausers if they’ve tried that.

Chef, teacher, and author Cornelius O'Donnell lives in Elmira, New York.

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or grain spirits, and lots of sugar, a sweet alcoholic confection that is the perfect drink to end an Italian meal—or begin it. (The Stonehouse recipe comes from the kitchen of the father-in-law of GM Tony Ecker, Dave “Papa” Roche.) They also serve a homemade pasta that is not to be missed, a broad and delicate fettuccine (which I highly recommend under the silky housemade vodka cream sauce). ~ TBC

Two Goats Brewing5027 State Rte. 414, Hector, NY

(607) 546-2337 If you only have one single solitary item that you offer for lunch or dinner, it better be good. And so it is at Two Goats Brewing. Perched on the eastern slope of Seneca Lake, with decks that drink in all that watery view, the menu consists of a roast beef sandwich. Served on a mitt of a roll (made by the Village Bakery in Montour Falls, crusted with sea salt crystals and caraway seeds), the beef is au jus with a creamy horseradish sauce. A big pile of chips, a few pickle spears, and a roll of paper towels (not that the sandwich is inordinately sloppy, but more as a matter of style) are the only sides. The Two Goats “farm-style”

beer list, though, does go on, with a Danger Goat! Blonde Doppelbock and a Whisky Richard Stout on the board the last time we were in, weighing in at 9.75% and 12% alcohol respectively—and coming with a 2-drink limit. A healthy list of bottled beers accompanies the Two Goats brew list. Along with a healthy dose of good times. ~ TBC

Wired Rooster, 76 Main St., Wellsboro, PA

(570) 724-1001 Scones. The word evokes a The-Importance-of-Being-Earnest-esque atmosphere, one populated by witty remarks and cucumber sandwiches. Said with gusto at the Wired Rooster, “scone” will immediately summon a delicious, cakey masterpiece. With all of their baked goods made by co-owner Robin Adams herself, the Wired Rooster offers a deliciously honeyed counterpoint to its Williamsport-roasted coffee. Unlike its Old World cousin, that has a tendency to austerity and plainness, the All-American scones served up at the Wired Rooster are good enough to share, though you may not want to. ~ MB


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Canadian Comfort: Poutine from the Red Skillet

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Mountain Home SERVICE DIRECTORY

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wegmans.com

One-stop shopping

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A Time to Every Purpose

I have the pleasure of driving by this picturesque scene in the Hills Creek area nearly every day. It’s equally beautiful in all seasons: the harsh winters take their toll on the snow-covered structure but accentuate the burnt umber boards; from spring into summer the vines emerge, turning nearly two sides green and concealing it in plain sight; in the fall the green dissipates a little each day as warm colors surround the decaying but still lively barn. Because on rare occasions I see critters scurrying to and fro as I drive by, and I have to confess that I’ve been intrigued enough to visit the inside, which confirmed my theory that it has many inhabitants. Old can be both beautiful and charismatic and—especially—fun to photograph. – S.W.

B A C K O F T H E M O U N TA I N

Photo by Sarah Wagaman

A Time to Every PurposePhoto by Sarah Wagaman

SusquehannaHealth.org

To schedule an appointment, please call Canyon Surgical Associates at (570) 723-0716 or Pine Creek Internal Medicine at (570) 724-3744.

Canyon Surgical Associates and Pine Creek Internal Medicine accept both referred and non-referred patients. Both have little wait time and are scheduling appointments for new patients.

Pine Creek Internal Medicine 103 West Avenue, Wellsboro *Consultation and procedure done on the same day.

Canyon Surgical Associates 1 Main Street, Wellsboro *A consultation is required prior to procedure.

Dr. Darius abaDi

Dr. Michael haraschak

Dr. walter laibinis

Dr. anthony nespola

History of colorectal cancer or over the age of 50? Heartburn or indigestion pain on a daily basis?Routine colonoscopy and gastroscopy are available close to your home.Drs. Darius Abadi and Michael Haraschak of Canyon Surgical Associates and Drs. Walter Laibinis and Anthony Nespola of Pine Creek Internal Medicine all perform routine colonoscopy screening and gastroscopy procedures at Susquehanna Health’s Soldiers + Sailors Memorial Hospital. Take charge of your health. Talk with your doctor about your risk of colon cancer and what causes pain in the upper gastrointestinal tract.

July 2014

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