Jeep Wrangler-Outstanding Top Repair

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Hard Top Repair

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11-17-2010,03:38 PM

TaxxGranite Guru

Join Date: Apr2010Member # 8763Location:Indianapolis, INAge: 35Posts: 290Feedback: 1reviews

Hard Top Repair

Let me start by saying I’ve done my share of body work, but I am neither a professional nor an expert, in factquite the novice. I did my research and also talked with a friend that runs a body shop to make sure my planssense before starting my work. In the end the nature of the damage to my hard top may prevent the repair frolasting a life of being taken on and off, but it’s about as good as it can get and I expect it to last many years. This messy to work with and proper personal protection equipment should be used.

I recently picked up a used hardtop for pretty cheap to run on my 07. The reason it was cheap is because it hadropped. All the glass was fine but it had significant cracks at the corners of the rear window which is a prettystructurally important area. It also had some minor damage along the lower lip, purely aesthetic. The followingshow the damage, though only one side is shown there are equal cracks on both sides of the rear; the damageenough you can pull the sides out far enough to stick your finger in the crack.

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Hard Top Repair - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum http://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40455

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The first thing to note and the reason I decide to post this is that most people think this is fiberglass and can brepaired with traditional matting and resin. This is NOT true. The top is made of SMC. Fiberglass resin may worit may hold up for smaller repairs but over time fiberglass and SMC will expand and contract at different ratesrepair will not last, not to mention you won’t get proper adhesion of the fiberglass to the SMC. I am sure thereexceptions to this.

The first thing I had to do was figure out how to reinforce the corners so the repair would last. We have to makworse to make it better. What I chose to do was to sand down the damaged area feathering (dishing) that out sit is thinnest at the damaged area and back to stock thickness elsewhere. This allows me to build up the repairmaterial at the crack, but feather (dish) it out as much as possible for the best adhesion and strength. In additthis I also made the crack into a hole so I could put a corner reinforcement inside. I cut corner reinforcementssheet metal and used a 3M panel bonding adhesive ( 3M 8115) for metal to plastic bonding for the permanentBecause I could not get clamps on it I drilled and riveted it to hold the piece in place while the adhesive dried.rivet heads will be sanded down later.


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The next step is to repair the hole. The material I used for repairing this is 3M Automix Rigid Parts Repairthe adhesive this requires a special gun that can push both sides up at the same time. I borrowed one from a fbody shop, but you can also use a dowel or a screw driver to push them up in a pinch. It’s much easier when yoget to the backside of the area to be repaired but since I could not I was forced to build it up from the front. Atpoint I cut a piece of fiberglass matting bigger than the damaged area and coated it with the Rigid Parts Repairand back and layed it over the hole and pressed it down with a spreader.


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After this it is pretty easy. Just sand and fill and sand and fill until you build it back up. You can mix fiberglassin with the epoxy for strength too. I didn’t do this on this repair but I did this on the lower corner as I built it ulittle at a time. This stuff sands similar to any body filler.


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Because I was going to be coating this top with a textured liner I was less worried about perfecting the body lintiny imperfections as I finished. In the end I finished with what you see above and these:


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11-17-2010,03:38 PM

TaxxGranite Guru

The next step is to prep and paint. Ideally you want to use an epoxy primer over the SMC repair before paint oof choice. My choice of finish was Raptor Liner, but anything goes at this point. So I prepped the area as describthink they might say sand to 180, but I used 120). You don’t want to remove the black coating or primer, you jwant to take the gloss away from it so the liner has something to adhere to (this is only the painted portion, ne


11 of 22 7/10/2012 12:10 PM

Join Date: Apr2010Member # 8763Location:Indianapolis, INAge: 35Posts: 290Feedback: 1reviews

primer doesn't need much work). I have used other liners in the past (Herculiner, Duplicolor, Durabak, Line-x aRhino) and this one beat my expectations more than any other. Granted it’s nowhere near the durability of Linit’s a fraction of the price and lighter. For the price (about $100) it FAR exceeds Herculiner and Durabak whichabout the same price. The end finish is MUCH nicer and more durable. It comes with everything you need incluthe gun. Well it doesn’t come with a compressor. It sprays nicely and it’s easy to master, very little overspray acompared to paint, though I’d still make sure you make yourself a little plastic booth or do it outside. In the enit sit a couple days to cure up and ended up with a nice finished product, along with doing my bumper and a coother things.


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Here you can see the texture I ended up with. You can affect the texture by changing gun distance orby using a reducer. I shot at about 45 PSI, 10 inches and reduced by 10%.


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I hope this helps. Good luck.

11-17-2010, 03:51 PM #3

SONICJKO Addict!

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Nice writeup!It looks great!__________________Yes, but there's just something about him. Something around the eyes, I

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11-17-2010, 04:53 PM #4


14 of 22 7/10/2012 12:10 PM

StubEXrubeSuper Moderator

Join Date: Jun 2008Member # 1473Location: Austin TexasPosts: 11,305GarageFeedback: 1 reviews

Quote:

Originally Posted by SONICNice writeup!It looks great!

X2.

Fantastic job.

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11-18-2010, 07:10 AM #5

07unlimitedxJKO Addict!

Join Date: Dec 2008Member # 2682Location: Calgary AlbertaAge: 42Posts: 2,111GarageFeedback: 1 reviews

WOW Nice Job! Looks like factory or better!

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11-18-2010, 07:30 AM #6

TaxxGranite Guru

Join Date: Apr 2010Member # 8763Location: Indianapolis, INAge: 35Posts: 290Feedback: 1 reviews

Thanks. I'm very happy with how it turned out and figured I'd share theprocess.

11-18-2010, 11:39 AM #7

Hound1Granite Guru

Very nice salvage job. It looks mint!

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11-18-2010, 12:34 PM #8

MR LIKAFisting Anyone?

Join Date: Feb 2009Member # 3353Location: Dana Point, CaAge: 48Posts: 1,815Feedback: 0 reviews

Great Job.

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11-18-2010, 01:19 PM #9

HittnthebzJKO Addict!

Join Date: Jun 2009Member # 4908Location: Roanoke, VAAge: 26Posts: 2,846Feedback: 0 reviews

Very nice job! One hell of a salvage job (even though you can't tell it wasdamaged from the end result)!

11-18-2010, 04:13 PM #10

RubiRed UnlimitedRock God

Join Date: Jan 2010Member # 7823Location: Plainsboro, NJPosts: 521Feedback: 1 reviews

Keep us informed of how it holds up!__________________RubiRed Unlimited

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11-18-2010, 10:25 PM #11

RubiCajunJKO Addict!

Join Date: Dec 2008Member # 2650Location: LouisianaPosts: 3,958GarageFeedback: 0 reviews

Excellent repair. I prefer your surface texture to the factory's.

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11-19-2010, 06:12 AM #12

Jaybee1669Rock God

Join Date: Apr 2010Member # 8728Location: Houston, TXAge: 39Posts: 1,438GarageFeedback: 1 reviews

Quote:

Originally Posted by RubiCajunExcellent repair. I prefer your surface texture to the factory's.

agreed, it looks really sharp without just looking like you sprayed over astandard hardtop.__________________I think this thing is finally coming together. Still Needed: drive shafts,frame mount rails...then done son! For a while...

11-19-2010, 07:12 AM #13

TaxxGranite Guru


Quote:

Originally Posted by RubiCajunExcellent repair. I prefer your surface texture to the factory's.

Thanks. I think you could get away with doing two tops with one RaptorLiner Kit. Maybe one 4 door and one two door. Most certainly you could dothree 4 door tops with two kits and split some cost. But even if you onlyuse half the material you can save the other half for later since it's in 4separate containers. I love my Line-x interior, but if I had it to do overagain I'd Raptor line the interior and save $$$. It probably wouldn't holdup as well in the bed of a truck with heavy use as Line-x does, but itwould hold up to foot traffic really well.

I've had the bumper on the trail since I sprayed it and it's holding upquite well. I just put the top on this week so I haven't had it on the trailyet.


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11-25-2010, 02:53 PM #14

spleifyWheeler

Join Date: Jul 2010Member # 10518Location: Denver, ColoradoPosts: 94Feedback: 0 reviews

Nice work man!!__________________NRA Member!ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ/l , [____],l----L -OlllllllO-()_) ()_)------)_)

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01-08-2011, 02:02 AM #15

Sunburst SaharaRock God

Join Date: Jan 2010Member # 7798Location: Louisa, KYAge: 25Posts: 766Feedback: 0 reviews

thanks for the info, I need to repair a little piece on the bottom back leftof my top about an inch tall by 6 inches wide__________________No more Jeep

01-09-2011, 05:27 PM #16

BryGuyGranite Guru

Join Date: Nov 2008Member # 2321Location: C.B.S,NewfoundlandAge: 38Posts: 476Feedback: 2 reviews

Quote:

Originally Posted by TaxxThe first thing to note and the reason I decide to post this is thatmost people think this is fiberglass and can be repaired withtraditional matting and resin. This is NOT true. The top is made ofSMC. Fiberglass resin may work and it may hold up for smallerrepairs but over time fiberglass and SMC will expand and contractat different rates and the repair will not last, not to mention youwon’t get proper adhesion of the fiberglass to the SMC.

First off... GREAT WRITE-UP

I'm glad I found it before I started my repair tomorrow

I just want to clarify one thing. It's only the fiberglass resin that you needto substitute for 3M panel bonding adhesive ( 3M 8115). You still use thesame fiberglass with the 3M 8115 right?__________________2008 JK X 2dr. Std. BlkPunisher Build

01-09-2011, 05:30 PM #17

e-jeepPretending to give a shit

Looks great!! Well done.__________________Want Jeep Mods? Marcus Has It!! ~ River City Offroad


18 of 22 7/10/2012 12:10 PM

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01-09-2011, 07:38 PM #18

TaxxGranite Guru


Quote:

Originally Posted by BryGuyFirst off... GREAT WRITE-UP

I'm glad I found it before I started my repair tomorrow

I just want to clarify one thing. It's only the fiberglass resin thatyou need to substitute for 3M panel bonding adhesive ( 3M 8115).You still use the same fiberglass with the 3M 8115 right?

Yes you can still use standard fiberglass matting. Just mix it in with the3m stuff. Somewhere there is an instruction sheet from 3m that showsjust that.

01-09-2011, 08:31 PM #19

mckbrewGranite Guru

Join Date: Jul 2010Member # 10199Location: Silverdale, WAPosts: 365Feedback: 2 reviews

Very nicely done. I had a small crack on mine that I needed to repairbefore I sold it. Tried all sorts of stuff, but the only way to get it to staytogether was with the fiberglass matting. My repair was functional, butnowhere near as nice as yours.__________________Northwest Jeep Rovers

01-10-2011, 07:42 AM #20

BryGuyGranite Guru

Quote:

Originally Posted by TaxxYes you can still use standard fiberglass matting. Just mix it in withthe 3m stuff. Somewhere there is an instruction sheet from 3mthat shows just that.


19 of 22 7/10/2012 12:10 PM

Join Date: Nov 2008Member # 2321Location: C.B.S,NewfoundlandAge: 38Posts: 476Feedback: 2 reviews

Thanks

__________________2008 JK X 2dr. Std. BlkPunisher Build

01-11-2011, 08:38 AM #21

Rubicon85Wheeler

Join Date: Oct 2009Member # 6540Posts: 70Feedback: 0 reviews

Wow! Came out great, thanks for sharing the repair. I have a friend whobacked into a pole and punched a hole in his hardtop. I will have to sharethis with him, good work!

01-11-2011, 08:52 AM #22

08detyelJPPounding Pavement

Join Date: Oct 2009Member # 6764Location: DetroitAge: 38Posts: 267Feedback: 0 reviews

3/M 5883 is the part number for rigid parts repair that comes in 5oz.tubes so you do not need a gun instead of using the 8115 or the Automixstuff which you do need the gun for. It is a 1:1 mix. Just an FYI for thoseof you who may not want to buy the gun.

Nice job on the repair man!

8275 -- 5883 is the part number to use if you do not want the gun8115 -- 8300 is another seam sealer by 3M that just uses a standardcaulk gun.

Just trying to help someone out on the money end of it; sorry.

Last edited by 08detyelJP; 01-11-2011 at 09:26 AM. Reason: spelling and partnumbers

01-11-2011, 05:27 PM #23


20 of 22 7/10/2012 12:10 PM

TaxxGranite Guru


Quote:

Originally Posted by 08detyelJP3/M 5883 is the part number for rigid parts repair that comes in5oz. tubes so you do not need a gun instead of using the 8115 orthe Automix stuff which you do need the gun for. It is a 1:1 mix.Just an FYI for those of you who may not want to buy the gun.

Nice job on the repair man!

8275 -- 5883 is the part number to use if you do not want thegun8115 -- 8300 is another seam sealer by 3M that just uses astandard caulk gun.

Just trying to help someone out on the money end of it; sorry.

That's great. I was lucky that I could borrow a gun from a friend. Nothingto be sorry about. Any info is great. I posted this because I couldn't find agood writeup anywhere and barely found it mentioned that the top is SMCand not fiberglass. About the only writeups I could find out there were forCorvette repair and even those left me asking some questions.

01-12-2011, 09:14 AM #24

08detyelJPPounding Pavement

Join Date: Oct 2009Member # 6764Location: DetroitAge: 38Posts: 267Feedback: 0 reviews

I just did not want to take away from the excellent job you did is all.

01-12-2011, 10:24 AM #25

TaxxGranite Guru


Quote:

Originally Posted by 08detyelJPI just did not want to take away from the excellent job you did is

all.

no worries!


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Jeep Wrangler-Outstanding Top Repair

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