JAN FEB 2017 - Textile Association of India · 2020-02-06 · January - February 2017 297 Journal...

January - February 2017 297

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1. IntroductionThe yarn structure is dependent primarily upon theraw material, spinning process, spinning principal,machine settings, twist, etc. The structure can be vo-luminous or compact, high or low hairiness; soft orhard; round or flat. Yarn structure has a greater orlesser influence on Hand, Strength and Elongation,Resistance to abrasion and Dye absorption. Rotor andAir-Jet yarn compare to ring spinning, offer the advan-tages such as High production rates, Elimination ofprocessing stages, Considerable reduction in person-nel and space and energy consumption and relativeease of automation.

On other side, Yarns produced from new spinningsystems like rotor and air-jet spinning have harsherfeel compared to ring spun yarn due to the differentouter structure of the yarn. With the proper selectionof raw material, spinning components and machinerysetting, now it would be possible to compensate in

order to improve softness even on new spinning sys-tems. With this the gap between new spinning systemand ring spun yarn can be narrowed down withoutcompromising the parent benefits like better abrasionand pilling resistance of Rotor and Air jet spun yarnrespectively.

1.1 Ring spinningIn ring spinning, the fibre mass in cross section of theroving is reduced by a drafting unit. The twist inserted

Impact of Spinning Parameters & Components on Rotor& Air-Jet Yarn Properties

Nitin T. Patil1*, Prof Dr. S. P. Borkar1, Dr. Stephan Weidner-Bohnenberger2 & Marc Schnell2

1Veermata Jijabai Technological Institute (VJTI)2RIETER Machine Works Ltd.

AbstractToday Ring, Rotor and Air-jet spinning system are commercially used for yarn production. Each spinningtechnology creates a typical yarn structure. This yarn structure determines the characteristics of the yarnitself, the characteristics in downstream processing and finally of the subsequent textile product. Textilefabrics with the softest touch can be undoubtedly produced from combed ring yarn. In order to manufacturea soft rotor yarn, the twist factor must be set low and supportive measures need to be undertaken in textilefinishing. Rotor spinning has a great potential to reduce the twist factor, which is the basic prerequisite forthe production of knitted fabric with a soft touch; by support of a new spin box generation and its com-ponents. Similarly the air-jet spinning system is now moving from 100% CV into new applications like COblends and 100% CO combed for knitting. The challenge is to compete the softness of a conventional ringyarn. The main objective of this study is to compare the effect of twist level, spinning components, processparameters on yarn properties such as yarn packing density which will support in improving the fabric handfor Rotor and Air-jet yarn.The other objective of this study is to check the impact on strength and elongationdue to reducing the twist.

KeywordsAir-jet spinning, New spinning geometry, Ring spinning, Rotor Spinning, Yarn properties, Yarn packingdensity, Yarn diameter

*All the correspondence should be addressed toNitin T. Patil,Veermata Jijabai Technological Institute (VJTI),MumbaiEmail : [email protected]

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Figure1.1: Characteristics of the yarns produced fromdifferent spinning system

January - February 2017298

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by the turning spindle moves back and reaches thefibres leaving the drafting unit. The ring yarn processis characterized by high flexibility in the use of theraw material, the yarn count and the yarn character.Ring yarn possesses a high degree of strength andyarn hairiness. [10]

1.2 Rotor SpinningIn rotor spinning, the input fibre strand is a drawnsliver. A sliver may have more than 20,000 fibres in itscross section. This means that a yarn of 100 fibres percross section will require a total draft of 200. Thisamount of draft is substantially higher than that ap-plied in ring spinning. The separated fibres are fedinto the turning rotor by an air stream. The fibres arecollected in the rotor groove and collected from thereby the rotating open yarn end and bound in by twist-ing. The yarn then is pulled out of the spin box via thenozzle. Loose fibres in this moment are wrapped aroundthe yarn, resulting in the characteristic wrapper fibresor "belly belt fibres" on the surface of the yarn. De-pending on the shape of the rotor groove the yarnshape results more or less compact. The higher thecentrifugal force due to rotor speed and rotor diam-eter, the yarn needs to be stronger and has less elon-gation. [10]

1.3 Air-jet SpinningIn Air- jet spinning, a sliver is fed to the draftingsystem; the drafted sliver enters a spinning nozzle.The leading end of the fibres forms the parallel yarncore; the free fibre ends are wound around the yarncore by the air in the spinning nozzle. The Air- jetyarn is then wound onto a package. The air-jet-spunyarn structure consists of core fibres without signifi-cant twist and covering fibres with a genuine twist,which ultimately produces the corresponding yarn te-nacity. The specific yarn structure results in yarn te-nacity between that of a ring-spun yarn and that of arotor-spun yarn.[10]

2 Part I - Rotor spun yarnThe study carried out on rotor yarn with same mate-rial, same count and same conditions.

Figure2.1: Latest Spin Box

2.1 Latest Rotor Spin Box TechnologyThe possibility to reduce twist in spinning is limitedby the spinning stability. The cohesion of fibres getsless with reduced twist, so that the spinning processgets interrupted by a yarn break more and more fre-quently resulting in loss of efficiency of the process.The newest spin box technology applied for the trialsin this respect allowed additional twist reduction com-pared to older technologies, which are still present inthe market.This better spinning stability is due to:◆ Reduced spinning tension thanks to latest spin

box geometry, new TWISTstop arrangement.◆ Lower spinning tension allows to reduce possible

twist multiplier◆ It is possible to produce soft yarn with the cor-

rect spinning component◆ TWISTstop insert with 3 twist-retaining bars for

high twist-retaining effect◆ High spinning stability

2.1.1 Effect of twist reduction◆ Less twist typically results in softer yarn◆ Less twist at same rotor speed results in higher

productivity◆ Evenness and count variation gets better, as well

as the imperfections

3. Rotor yarn properties evaluationThe basic study is conducted with Ne 30's cotton yarnwith different twist levels to see the impact on physi-cal yarn properties such as yarn strength, elongation,yarn hairiness and yarn packing density.

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Rotor yarn strength and elongation

Graph 3.1. Strength and Elongation

3.1 Yarn strength and elongationTable 1 and graph 3.1 show the increase of yarnstrength and elongation of yarn with increase in twistmultiplier (TM) value. In the other hand, graph 4.2shows also how the TM of yarn influences the hairi-ness of yarn. The hairiness has great impact on yarnsoftness. Low twist causes a more open yarn struc-ture, with the result that single fibers spread out of thesurface of the yarn structure and thus achieve bettersoftness.

3.2 Yarn hairiness

Rotor yarn hairiness

Graph 3.2. Hairiness Curve

In rotor spinning, the yarn hairiness can be designedby means of a wide range of spinning elements likerotor groove and draw-off nozzle. It has been verifiedduring this study that today with latest spin box thereis the possibility to produce yarn with a lower twistmultiplier without affecting spinning stability.

3.3 Yarn packing density and diameterThe packing density, i.e. the fiber distribution in ayarn cross section, can significantly influence the prop-erties and quality of the yarn. Thus, the need for pre-cise and concise information about packing densitybecomes a must for an in-depth understanding of yarn

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Table 3.1 Machine parameter influences softness of yarn

Sample D1 D2 D3 D4 D5

Alpha [?e.]/?m (3.2) 97 (3.6) 109 (4.0) 121 (4.5) 136 (5.0) 151

Delivery [m/min] 162 144 130 115 104

T/M 693 778 864 971 1078

Strength [cN/tex] 10.63 11.41 12.17 12.92 13.00

Elongation [%] 5.08 5.31 5.45 5.75 5.95

USTER CV% 16.05 15.95 16.03 15.74 15.84

USTER Hairiness 4.71 4.59 4.44 4.29 4.06

Package Density g/cm3 0.4 0.41 0.43 0.45 0.47

Yarn SEM images


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structure and hence yarn mechanics. However fromgraph 3.3 it is also clear that twist factor is responsiblefor packing density changes. For a given yarn count,fibers in the yarn with a higher twist factor are distrib-uted in less scattered way, and the peak of packingdensity curves will shift towards the yarn axis. Similarimpact has been observed with diameter change: In-creased twist results in increased yarn density andreduced yarn diameter.

Rotor yarn packing density and diameter

Graph 3.3. Density and Diameter

During the twisting process, an external uniaxial ten-sile load P along the axis of yarn must exist, sincetwisting cannot process without tension. This tensileload can be conveyed to the constituent fibers of theyarn. Assuming that the fibers are perfectly flexiblemembers, incapable of resisting any axial compressiveforces, the stresses M (a bending moment), V (shearforce) and T (a torsional moment), will all vanish.Therefore, the only fiber force that needs to be consid-ered is the tension acting in the direction parallel tothe fiber axis Pr. Since the individual contribution ofPr to the total load Pc in compression is,

Figure3.1: Stress analysis of fibers in spun yarn

P per fiber = Pr sinf r (1) Where, f

r is the fiber helix angle.

Therefore the total load Pc can be calculatedPc = Smi=1 Sinfr (2)

Where, m is the total amount of fibers in the yarncross section. Equation 2 states that if the axis tensioncarried by each fiber is multiplied by the sine of thehelix angle of the fiber and all such products aresummed. The total will represent the compression loadacting on the yarn in the direction normal to the yarnaxis. Apparently, the higher the twist level, the higherthe helix angle f and in turn the more prominent thecompressive load. This is how a more compact yarnstructure is created. [26][27].

4. Part 2: AIR JET SPINNINGRole of Spinning Systems in improving softnessYarns produced from new spinning systems like air-jethave harsher feel as compared to ring spun yarn dueto their different outer structure. With the proper se-lection of raw material, spinning components andmachinery setting, now it would be possible to com-pensate in order to improve softness even on newspinning systems. With this, the gap between newspinning system and ring spun yarn can be narroweddown without compromising the parent benefits likebetter abrasion and pilling resistance of Air-jet spunyarn.[10][17][20]

4.1 Development of Soft YarnSoftness is an important characteristic for those prod-ucts which come directly in contact with skin. Ways toproduce soft yarns.◆ Raw material i.e. to use fine fibres.◆ Process parameters i.e. spinning under lesser ten-

sion.◆ Incorporation of low twist & plying.◆ Production hollow yarns using polyvinyl alcohol

(PVA) fibers.Selection of right spinning technology (ring, ro-tor, Air-jet) [10][2]

4.2 Improvement in Softness during Spinning◆ To improve softness of air-jet yarn with modified

yarn structure with newly developed componentsand process parameter

◆ To improve fabric feels of air-jet yarn by chemi-cal finishing e.g. Softeners to match with Ring.Comparative analysis of yarns, fabrics and gar-ments with different subjective and objective tests.

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Figure: 4.1 Spin nozzle housing

4.3 Spin Nozzle HousingThe spin nozzle is the heart of the air-jet spinning

technology. The bottom part of the spin nozzle con-sists of a fiber-feeding element (FFE), to which adrafted and condensed sliver is delivered. The pre-pared sliver is spun into yarn due to the effect ofpressurized air inside the spinning nozzle. In the nozzlehousing there is a twist element with holes throughwhich pressurized air is supplied at a volume equal tothat of the diameter of the spin air holes and air pres-sure. Air is discharged at an angle to generate a whirlwind. Fibres are fed through the spin tip with the di-ameter of nozzle. Air rotates around the spin tip andcreates a twist in the fibres. [10][20]

5. Air-jet Yarn Properties EvaluationThe basic study is conducted with Ne 30's cotton yarnwith different twist levels to see the impact on physi-cal yarn properties such as yarn strength, elongation,yarn hairiness and yarn packing density and influenc-ing together the softness of the yarns. [31][1][9]

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Table 5.1 Machine parameter influences softness of yarn

Sample E1 E2 E3 E4 E5 E6Machine J 20 J 20 J 20 J 20 J 20 J 20

Yarn [Ne]/Nm 30/51 30/51 30/51 30/51 3/51 30/51

Delivery [m/min] 460 420 380 340 380 380

Spin Tip in mm 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 1.0

Air pressure 4.3 4.3 4.3 4.3 6.0 6.0

Strength [cN/tex] 11.7 13.4 14.8 15.4 15.6 15.5

Elongation [%] 5.1 5.5 6.0 6.3 6.2 6.2

USTER CV% 13.9 13.8 14.3 14.3 14.4 14.1

USTER (H%) 3.8 3.5 3.4 3.4 3.3 3.4

Packing density 0.44 0.46 0.48 0.50 0.52 0.51

Yarn images


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Air-jet yarn strength & elongation

Graph 5.1 Strength & Elongation curve

5.1 Yarn Strength and ElongationTable 2.1 is an overview of the different trials to im-prove the softness of the air-jet yarns. Different deliv-ery speeds, different air pressure and spin tip diameterinfluencing the yarn properties. E5 and E6 with lowdelivery speed and high air pressure results in highestyarn strength and elongation. The yarn packing den-sity is also on the high side. [31][9]

From table 2 and graph 5.1 shows effect of deliveryspeed and air pressure (influencing twist level) on air-jet yarn. Lower speed and/or higher air pressure in-creases simultaneously elongation and strength due tothe higher twist effect on the yarn. On the other hand;graph 4.2 shows the influence on hairiness of yarn atthe same time. The soft feel of fabric can be better if?1+2 hairiness value is higher. Low twist causes morehairiness in the yarn due to the open structure, visibleas well in the yarn packing density. [31]

5.2 Yarn Hairiness

Air-jet yarn hariness

Graph 5.2: Hairiness Curve

However, low hairiness is a drawback where a largenumber of protruding fiber ends contributes to a softhand. First of all, air-jet spun yarns can now be pro-

duced with significantly lower twist multipliers thanpreviously, without any adverse effect on spinningstability. [31][8]

5.3 Air-jet Yarn Packing Density &Diameter

Air-jet yarn packing density and diameter

Graph 5.3: Packing density and diameter

The impact of air pressure ,delivery speed and spin tipis visible on yarn packing density and yarn diameter.Factors affecting real yarn diameter are essentiallythose that affect yarn density or fibre compactness. Ingeneral yarn become softer as the density become lowerand diameter become higher Keeping material andprocess same

6. Statistical AnalysisThe one-way analysis of variance (ANOVA) is used todetermine whether there are any statistically signifi-cant differences between the means of three or moreindependent (unrelated) groups. Including the assump-tions of the test and when you should use this test. Inthis article, ANOVA test used to determine statisticallysignificant differences between the various yarn prop-erties given in a table 6.1 and 6.2

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Table 6.1 Statistical test for rotor yarn properties

Test Analysis Yarn (D1 to D5) Significance

Strength cN/tex MS 4.74F 48.76

P- value 0.000** SignificantF crit 2.866

Elongation % MS 0.59F 8.61 Significant

P- value 0.000**F crit 2.86

CVm % MS 0.0841F 4.711 Significant


Neps MS 32210.06F 7.30 Significant


Hairiness MS 0.31F 118.89 Significant


Diameter MS 0.000315F 366.58 Significant

P- value 0.000**F crit 2.866

Yarn packing MS 0.004056Density F 289.71 Significant

P-value 0.000**F crit 2.866

** Significance at (0.05)

Table 6.2 Statistical results for Air-jet yarn properties

Test Analysis Yarn (E1 to E6) Significance

Strength cN/tex MS 12.03F 2178.15 Significant


Elongation % MS 1.10F 539.72 Significant


CVm % MS 0.34F 2.40 Not

P- value 0.066 SignificantF crit 2.62

Neps MS 18764.12F 72.73 Significant


Hairiness MS 0.1200F 11.39 Significant


Diameter MS 0.0007F 117.76 Significant


Yarn packing MS 0.0041Density F 130.9 Significant

P-value 0.000**F crit 2.62

** Significant at (0.05)

7. Conclusion:An enumeration of various research revealed that allthe studies were interested in the improving the fabrichand for rotor and air-jet yarn .The objective of thiswork is to validate and analyses the impact on theyarn packing density and yarn diameter of rotor andair-jet yarns with determining the more influential in-trinsic yarn parameters like strength, elongation etc. Inthis study, the authors provided a base to carry outfurther investigation in knitted fabric for fabric handdue to spinning and processing. The twist increaseresults in a free air volume reduction hence propor-tionally impact yarn packing density .A statistical studyallowed the authors, by using ANOVA test (Table.6.1& 6.2) to retain the most influential factors in the yarnpacking density, the yarn count and the twist in yarnby keeping the strength and elongation at practicalacceptable level as per requirement of downstreamprocess.

References

1. Anindya Ghosh, 'Studies on structural aspects ofring, rotor Air-jet and open-end friction spunyarns' National conference on Emerging trendsin textile, fiber & apparel engineering, Govt.college of engineering, Berhampore, West Ben-gal, March 2006.

2. Rameshkumar C., et. al., Comparative studies onring rotor and vortex yarn knitted fabrics, AUTEXResearch Journal, 8.4, December 2008.

3. Zhuan Yong Zou, A Study of Generating YarnThin Places of Murata Vortex Spinning, TextileResearch Journal 2009 79: 129.

4. Guldemet Basal, vortex spun yarn vs. Air-jet spunyarn, AUTEX Research Journal, 3, (3) Septem-ber 2003.

5. Huseyin Gazi Ortlek and Levent Onal, Compara-tive Study on the Characteristics of Knitted Fab-rics Made of Vortex-Spun Viscose Yarns, Fibersand Polymers 2008, 9, (2) 194-199.

6. Rieter Com4 Yarns*

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7. Carl Lawrence, Fundamentals of Spun Yarn Tech-nology

8. W.Klein, New Spinning System, Vol., 5, TheTextile institute, First Edition, 1999.

9. T.K. Sinha and Tanveer Malik, A Study to Re-duce the Stiffness of Air Vortex Yarn, Depart-ment of Textile Technology, Shri VaishnavInstitude of Technology and Science

10. J.W.S.Hearle, P.Grosberg, S.Backer, StructuralMechanics of Fiber , Yarns, and Fabrics, Depart-ment of Textile Technology, The

11. X. Y. Jiang, J. L. Hu, K. P.S. Cheng and R. Postle,Determining the Cross-Sectional Packing Den-sity of Rotor Spun Yarns, Textile Research Jour-nal 2005, 75, 233

12. G. Chandramouli, kumaraguru college of Tech-nology, An investigation of Air Vortex Yarn withDifferent Blend Proportion, Journal of the Tex-tile Association, March-April 2012, 376-371.

13. Arindam Basu, Yarn structure - properties rela-tionship, The South India Textile Reserch Asso-ciation, coimbatore 641 014, India

14. G K Tyagi and S Shaw, Structural and character-istic variations in viscose ring- and air-jet spunyarns as a consequence of draw frame speed andits preparatory process, The Technological Insti-tute of Textile & Science Bhiwani 127 021, In-dia. Received 15 November 2010; revised re-ceived and accepted 3 February 2011.

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1. IntroductionThe direction of the twist at each stage of manufactureis indicated by the use of letters S or Z in accordancewith the following convention. Yarn twist helps to holdthe bundle of fibres yarns together. A single yarn hasS twist if, when it is held in the vertical position, thefibres inclined to the axis of the yarn conform in thedirection of the slope to the central portion of theletter S. Similarly the yarn has Z twist if the fibresinclined to the axis of yarn conform in the direction ofslope to the central portion of the letter Z.

Figure 1.1

Woven fabrics are constructed with the interlacing ofthe yarn lengthwise and width wise at right angles toeach other. Each set of yarns (wefts and warps) lookslike parallel straight wires crossing the other set, andas a result the fabric resembles a screen. The interlacing

points are the major locations where interactionsbetween yarns in the two systems take place andthrough which the yarns form an interlocked structure[3]. Without this interaction at the interlacing points,a woven fabric would be equivalent to sheets made ofparallel but isolated yarns; the resultant propertieswould be entirely different from the actual fabric. Inother words, this yarn interaction at the crossing pointsis the essential feature of woven fabric and will affectmore or less all the fabric properties [5]. Differentpatterns can be produced in a fabric by using similaryarns but with different twist levels; a shadow stripecan be produced by weaving alternate bands of S andZ twist yarns.

2. Materials and methodSingle yarn is produced with 'Z' twist and then it isconverted in to the ply yarn of 'S' and 'Z' twist directionas shown in the following figure 2.1.

Figure 2.1

Four fabric samples were manufactured on samplerapier weaving machine as shown in the followingtable 2.1, by varying the arrangement of warp and

Influence of Ply Yarn Twist Direction on theProperties of 100% Cotton Fabric

Prof. Narkhedkar R. N.* & Kupelur R. K.D.K.T.E'S Textile and Engineering Institute

AbstractThere is certain yarn parameter which decides the quality of 100% cotton fabric. In this the author usedplain weave to produce fabric but only change is arrangement of warp and weft with differential twistdirection. Then this sample is tested for the different fabric properties to check its performance. It helps tocheck effect of twist direction and arrangement of warp and weft on these properties. The purpose of thisstudy is to explore the effect of different ply yarn twist direction on various fabric properties. It helps indeciding the suitability of a fabric used for the crease resistant purpose. In this research the four sets offabrics with different combination of warp and weft threads having the 'S' and 'Z' directional twists wereused. The fabric samples were tested for different types of tests like: Air permeability, fabric elongation andabrasion resistance.

KeywordsAbrasion resistance, Air permeability, Porosity, Ply yarn.

* All correspondence should be addressed to,Prof. Narkhedkar R. N.,D.K.T.E'S Textile and Engineering Institute,IchalkaranjiEmail: [email protected]

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weft. The plain weave used for manufacturing thefabrics, with 38 EPI and 36 PPI.

Table 2.1 Arrangement of yarns in fabric

SAMPLE Warp Ply yarn Weft Ply yarn

A SSSS SSSS

B ZZZZ ZZZZ

C ZSZS ZSZS

D ZZZSSS ZZZSSS

3. Results and discussionsFor the fabric testing there is comparison of fabricsamples produced from the yarns arranged as,A) 'SSSS' with 'ZSZS', 'ZZZSSS' andB) 'ZZZZ' with 'ZSZS', 'ZZZSSS'

3.1 Air permeabilityIt is mainly attributed to the porosity of the fabric.Porosity of fabric is purely dependent on the porosityof the constituent yarns and air gaps between theconstituent yarns after interlacement it depends onfabric construction. Since fabric construction was keptconstant, porosity of the fabric was mainly affected bytwist of yarn [4]. Air permeability tests were conductedon air permeability tester according to ASTM standard.The results of Air permeability, in terms of the amountof air passing through a unit fabric area per unit timeare given in table 3.1.

Table 3.1 Avg. air permeability

SAMPLES A B C D

AIR PERMEABILITY 78 67.6 123.2 129.4

Graph 3.1

From graph 3.1 and table 3.1 it is clear that asarrangement of S & Z twist in fabric is changed thereis change in air permeability of fabric samples. But ascompare with first two samples air permeability ofsample 'C' and sample 'D' is more. Sample 'C' &'D'shows highest air permeability because oppositedirectional twisted yarns will have tendency to move

in opposite direction so more gap will be formedbetween the yarns which will give higher airpermeability

3.2 Fabric ElongationFabric elongation is the extinction of the fabric beforeit breaks due to the loading in axial direction. Whenthe load is applied to the fabric, first the longitudinalyarn in the fabric takes that load and starts to elongateto their maximum extension. After reaching themaximum extension they break i.e. fabric breaks.Maximum load caring capacity of the yarn is decidedby the term fabric assistance.

Table 3.2 Avg. Fabric Elongation of samples

Testing SAMPLESDirection

A B C D

Warp 3.82 3.14 2.852 2.348

Weft 3.06 2.8 2.3 1.7

Graph 3.2

Graph 3.2 and table 3.2 reveals that, sample 'C' &'D'show less warp way and weft way breaking elongationwhich shows that there is a dominant effect of plyyarn twist direction on breaking elongation of fabric.Since in sample 'C' and 'D' the different directionaltwisted yarn are put alternatively and groupedrespectively during the stretching of the fabric, theyarns in the longitudinal direction gathers at particularplace due to their tendency of untwisting, which createsweak place in the fabric and the fabric assistancereduces in the same place and they will breaks earlierSample [2]. 'A' &'B' show more warp as well as weftway strength and breaking elongation due to evenlongitudinal yarn distribution during stretching [1].

3.3 Abrasion resistanceAbrasion resistance was measured as per ASTM onMartindale abrasion Tester. Along with the other fabricproperties the serviceability also plays a vital role indeciding the fabric quality. It is an ability of fabric to

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give useful service. Abrasion resistance is resistanceto wear and rubbing away of components fibres andyarns of fabric [8]. The results for abrasion resistancein terms of % thickness loss and % weight loss fordifferent samples are shown in following table 3.3.

Graph 3.3.1

Graph 3.4

From graph 3.3, 3.4 and table 3.3 it is clear that thereis no such considerable change in fabric thickness andfabric weight as number of cycle's increases. Butespecially the loss is little bit more in case of sample'D'. Since the yarns in sample 'C' & 'D' are placedalternatively with 'S' and 'Z' twist and 'SSSZZZ'respectively, so during the abrasion in right and leftdirection somewhat more fibres will gets removed fromthe yarn which lead to little bit more loss in thicknessand weight [6].

4. ConclusionThis study reveals that, Air permeability of sample 'C'&'D' is higher as compare with others because ofarrangement of ply yarns is with alternate differential

twist direction which leads to tendency to move inopposite direction creating more gaps between the yarnswhich will give higher air permeability.

This study also confirms that, the elongation in weftdirection is less than warp way direction it is due to

the less PPI as compared with EPI. Since in sample 'C'and 'D' the different directional twisted yarn are putalternatively which gives less elongation than othersamples.

It is also found that, the abrasion resistance of sample'C' and 'D' is less as compare with other samples; it isdue to the removal of yarn surface fibres which arefacing their tips from front side to the friction duringthe abrasion which lead to loss in thickness and weightloss.

References1. Mollanoori M., Alamdar-Yazdi A., Fibres & Textiles in Eastem

Europe "Twist Direction Effect on the Mechanical Propertiesof Woven Fabric" 20 (1), 5, (2012).

2. Halari1 N. R., Rakshit1 A. K., Chattopadhyay S. K. &Bhowmick M., Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research,"Effect of twist level and twist direction of core yarn on dref-3 spun yarn", 40, (6), 137, (2015).

3. Ünal P.G., Textile Research Journal, "Investigation of SomeHandle Properties of Fabrics Woven with Two Folded Yarnsof Different Spinning Systems" 80, 19.

4. Banale A. & Chattopadhyay, Indian Journal of TextileResearch, 'Effect of yarn twisting and de-twisting on comfortcharacteristics of fabrics', 40, 144.

5. Sadaf Abbasi, Peerzada M. & Jhatil R., Mehran UniversityResearch Journal of Technology, "Characterization of LowTwist Yarn: Effect of Twist on Physical and MechanicalProperties" 31 (7), 3, (2012).

6. Zeidman M., Sawhney P. & Herrington P., India journal offibre & textile research, "Fibre migration theory of ring spunyarn" 28, (6), 122, (2003).

7. Krishnaswamy R. and Sharma J., India Journal of fibre &textile research, "Modification to drafting system forimprovement in yarn quality", 20, (12), 169, (1995).

8. Milosavljevic S. and Tadic T., Pakistan Textile Journal"Influence of folding twist on abrasion resistance of cottonyarn" 11, (1991).

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Table 3.3 Average Thickness of Samples

SAMPLES NUMBER OF CYCLES

AVG. THICKNESS LOSS AVG. WEIGHT LOSS

0 50 100 150 0 50 100 150

A 0.5375 0.5325 0.5175 0.5 0.232 0.225 0.215 0.2

B 0.5075 0.495 0.4825 0.47 0.237 0.237 0.227 0.212

C 0.4575 0.4375 0.435 0.428 0.182 0.185 0.181 0.195

D 0.2725 0.2475 0.2375 0.228 0.125 0.115 0.112 0.105

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1. IntroductionOne of the most abandoned materials in India iscellulous non-wood fibrous materials, such as rice straw(roughly 20 million tons of rice-straw /annually) [1,2]. Instead of burning the rice-straw, recycling it witha mixture of cement forms a sustainable low costbuilding material, which also reduces atmosphericpollution. In addition to these benefits, the results ofthe rice straw reinforced cement boards could act as asound insulator in building. Many literatures [3-6]indicated various advantages for the use of naturalfibers in cement composites, such as increased flexuralstrength, post-crack load bearing capacity, increasedimpact toughness and improved bending strength [5-14]. The best advantage of using natural fibers is thatthey offer significant cost reduction and benefitsassociated with processing [15, 16], as compared tosynthetic fibers. That's why they are currently gettinga lot of attention for replacing synthetic fibers (glassand asbestos) [17]. Different studies have analysed thesuitability of coir, rice-straw, kenaf, cotton, polyester,glass, acrylic, rock wool and ramie as raw material foracoustic control panel [18-25].

Coconut coir fibre compressed into bales and mattresssheet was found to demonstrate good sound absorptioncoefficient [14]. When compared to a single layer,multi-layer coconut coir fibres with airspace layersincrease the sound absorption coefficient of the materialat lower frequencies. Lee and Chen reported that theacoustic absorption of multi-layer materials is betterwith perforated plates backed with airspaces [15]. Ersoyand Kucuk have investigated with three different layersof tea-leaf fiber waste materials with and withoutbacking provided by a single layer of woven textilecloth were tested for their sound absorption properties[16]. Composite boards of random cut rice straws andwood particles are found to demonstrate higher soundabsorption coefficient than particleboard, fibre boardand plywood in the frequency range of 500-8000 Hz[12, 18]. Khedari et al. have developed particlecomposite boards from agricultural waste productsusing combinations of durian peel and coir fibre strawparticles instead of wood as an insulation board inwooden construction industry [14].

Plant based lignocellulosic fibers such as rice straw,wheat straw or oil palm leaves are crushed into chipsand used as the substitute to the wood - based rawmaterials in the composites for noise controlapplications [22-25]. It is reported that thecharacteristics of rice-straw and waste tire particlecomposite boards are most suitable than wood based

A Study on Acoustic Properties of RiceStraw Reinforced Cement Boards

E. Tholkappiyan, D. Saravanan, D. Sushmitha, P. Leela Devi & S. DeepthiDepartment of Textile Technology,

Bannari Amman Institute of Technology

AbstractAgricultural lignocellulosic fiber (rice-straw) reinforced cement boards were manufactured which is used assound insulation materials. The manufacturing parameters were 1:1:4, 1:2:8 and 2:1:4 (cement: rice-straw:water respectively). Commercial cement was used as the composite binder. The results are compared withcommercial cement board with proportions of 1:4:1 (cement: coarser sand: water). It was observed thatcement: fiber: water mixture ratio by weight of 1:1:4 which is more effective than other two mixingproportions as well as commercial cement board. In addition, the density values of the rice-straw reinforcedcement boards were highly influenced by the rice-straw content and decreased with increasing rice-strawcontent in the rice straw reinforced cement boards. In addition, density, porosity and bending strength ofthe rice straw reinforced cement boards are compared to commercial cement board makes them to be moreattractive option for sound absorption as well as insulation.

KeywordsRice-straw, sound absorption coefficient, density, porosity, bending strength

*All correspondence should be addressed to,E Tholkappiyan,Department of Textile Technology,Bannari Amman Institute of Technology,Sathyamangalam-638401, India.E-Mail: [email protected]

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materials in the frequency range 2000-8000 Hz, due tolow specific gravity and porous nature of the boards[24]. Noise barrier structures such as particle compositeboards produced from agricultural wastes have beenstudied and noise absorption coefficient of porousmaterials depends on the density, thickness, porosityand morphology of porous structures [19-23]. Previousstudy stated that, in designing a material to have ahigh sound absorption coefficient, density shouldincrease along with the propagation of the sound wave[23-25]. Therefore, the main structural properties ofthe porous materials affecting sound absorption aredensity, thickness and porosity. On the other hand, theporosity has a significant effect on sound absorption[33-35]. It can be concluded from the above studiesthat the acoustical properties of material depend onvarious parameters chosen and the interaction betweenthe parameters.

In this study, investigation focuses the use of discreteand randomly oriented rice straw fibers mixed withcement and water. The effect of rice-straw, cement andwater mixing ratio, bulk density and porosity onAverage Sound Residual (ASR) and Sound AbsorptionCoefficient (SAC) are discussed. The physical,mechanical and sound absorption properties weremeasured according to the relevant standards. The mainpurpose of this study was to examine the option ofmaking composite materials by recycling large amountsof rice-straw, thus solving a serious problem ofenvironmental pollution caused by these agriculturalwastes products.

2. Materials and Methods2.1 MaterialsThe agricultural lignocellulosic fiber used in this studywas rice-straw. After removing the top 5 cm, theremaining rice-straw were cut into 1-2 cm lengths.The rice straw fibres width depended on the nativestraw stem, which was wider at the bottom than at thetop (Fig. (2.1)). Rice straw fibers have 63% crystallinecellulose, strength of 3.5 g/denier (450 MPa),elongation of 2.2%, and modulus of 200 g/denier (26GPa), similar to that of linen fibers. The rice strawfibers reported here have better properties than anyother natural cellulose fiber obtained from anagricultural byproduct. With a worldwide annualavailability of 580 million tons, rice straw is an annuallyrenewable, abundant, and cheap source for naturalcellulose fibers [13]. Using rice straw for high-valuefibrous applications will help to add value to the ricecrops, provide a sustainable resource for fibers, andalso benefit the environment.

Figure 2.1: Cut rice straw fibres with thesize of 10-20 mm

2.2 Rice-straw Reinforced Cement Boards (RRCBs)preparation

Rice-straw reinforced cement boards of 30 cm x 30cm x 3 cm were manufactured with various bulkdensities of three different mixture of cement: ricestraw: water by weight at 1:1:4, 1:2:8 and 2:1:4proportions (Table 1). Rice straws were cut as aboveto examine the effect of rice straw particle width (asthe straw width) and length. Portland cement was addedto the sun dried rice-straw fibers and mixed thoroughlybefore adding of water. The mixture was then placedin the molds (30 cm x 30cm x 3 cm) and 10 kg/cm2

pressure was applied for 24 hours at room temperature.The specimens were removed from the molds after 24hours (after initial cure) and then kept at roomtemperature for 28 days to cure completely [22].Physical (density and moisture content) property wasmeasured according to relevant Japanese IndustrialStandard (JIS A 5908-1994) [26]. Mechanical propertywas measured using the ASTM D 1037-99 (AmericanSociety for Testing and Materials, 1999) [22]. RRCBsamples were preconditioned at 250C and 65% RH for24 hours before testing.

3. Physical Properties3.1 Bulk densityBulk density (rb) was calculated by using the followingrelationship [28]:rb = W/t kg/m3; (1)

Where, W is the weight per unit area, t is the thicknessdetermined as per ASTM D 3776.

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Average of five samples was taken for results anddiscussion.

3.2 Weight average absolute density of the variouscement boardsThe weight average absolute density of compositeblocks (ra) was calculated using the following formula[28]:r

a = (P

f D

f + P

c D

c) / (P

f + P

p) kg/m3; (2)

Where, Pf and P

C are the % blend proportion of rice

straw and cement respectively;D

f and D

C, the absolute densities of rice straw fibre

(380 kg/m3) and cement (3500 kg/m3) respectively.Average of five samples was taken for results anddiscussion.

3.3 Porosity (H)Porosity (H) is calculated using the following equation[28]: Average of five samples was taken for resultsand discussion.H = 1- (r

b /r

a);

(3)Where, r

b is the bulk density of rice straw cement

board (kg/m3); and ra, the weight average absolute

density of rice straw cement board (kg/m3).

3.4 Moisture contentMeasure the mass (m1) of a test piece. Put it in an airdryer kept at 1030 ± 20C, measure the mass (m

2) when

it has constant mass and obtain the moisture content tothe tenth's place by the following formula [27]:Moisture content (%) = (m

1 - m

2 / m

2) x 100;

(4)Where, m

2, mass after drying (g); m1, mass before

drying (g).Average of five samples was taken for results anddiscussion.

4. Mechanical propertyThree-point bending strength was determined by usinga Universal Testing Machine (TUE-C-1000) withASTM D 1037-99 (Fig (4.1)). A load of approximately10 mm/min at a mean deformation speed from thesurface was applied to the test piece to measure themaximum load (P). The bending strength of individualtest piece was calculated from the formula shown below[22]:

Figure4.1: Schematic diagram of test apparatus ofbending strength

Bending Strength (N/mm2) = 3PmL / 2bt2;(5)

Where,P

m - maximum load, N

L - Span length, mmb - Width of test piece, mmt - Thickness of test piece, mmAverage of five samples was taken for results anddiscussion.

5. Sound Absorption Coefficient (SAC) TestingThe sound absorption coefficient (a) of a material isthe fraction of incident sound energy the surfaceabsorbs or otherwise does not reflect. This value isused to select or specify materials in noise controlapplications. Where low or very high frequencies areinvolved, however, it is usually better to compare soundabsorption coefficients [29, 30]. Our tests followedASTM C 423-02a [30], and were executed at theAuditory Systems Laboratory at PSG College ofTechnology, India (fig.3). In this method, a loudspeakersystem (Larson-Davis 900 B preamp), a microphone(omni-directional with a flat within 1/3 band, Larson-Davis 0.5 inch, model 2559), a sound pressure levelmeter (real time spectrum analyzer, Larson-Davis 3200series) and a reverberation chamber (room volume12.52 m3) are used. The chamber's air temperature andhumidity were 210C and 50 % RH. The sound energystored in a room depends on the power of the sourceand the room volume; the rate at which energy isabsorbed depends on the area of all surfaces and objectsin the room and their absorption coefficients [30, 31].

Figure 5.1: Schematic diagram of sample made forreverberation chamber method

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The reverberation chamber method [27] was used tomeasure sound absorption of the biocomposite boardsas shown in Fig. (5.1). The experimental results weretaken in the absence and presence of the sample for allthe frequencies. The frequency value, such as low (250Hz), lower middle (500 Hz), upper middle (1000 Hz)and high (2000 to 4000 Hz), were selected which areharmful to human ear. The computer generates soundsignals, which are amplified by the signal amplifier.These signals are then converted into sound waves viathe sound source. The material being tested rests inthe sample holder in the sound path. The sound passesthrough the sample and reaches the sound detector,which converts the received sound signals to electricsignals that are then analyzed by the signal-processingcomputer. The sound absorption was calculated usingthe following equation [33]:

Sound absorption (a) = dBwos

- dBws

/ dBwos;

(6)

Table 7.1: Physical, mechanical and ASR properties of RRCBs

Name of Mixture Weight Bulk Porosity Average Bending Moisturethe sample ratio average density (H) = 1- (rb/ra) Residual strength content %

(cement: absolute (rb) kg/m3 Sound N/mm2

rice straw: density (ra) (ARS)water) kg/m3

Sample- A 1:1:4 1765 907 0.48 39.30 9.6 10

Sample -B 1:2:8 1340 629 0.53 48.05 6.8 12

Sample -C 2:1:4 2100 1277 0.39 51.90 11.4 9

Sample- D* 1:4:1 2580 1888 0.26 64.50 26.7 7

*Sample-D: cement: coarser sands: water - 1:4:1 (commercial cement board)

Where dBwos

is the sound level without sample anddB

ws is the sound level with sample position.

Average Sound Reduction (ASR) [39] = 1/n(7)

Xj = Selected frequencies; n- selected number of

frequencieswhere, X

j = X

1, X

2, X

3……. X

n

6. Data Analysis by Analysis of VarianceThe Analysis of Variance (ANOVA) was conductedfor F-test and Pair wise comparisons on ASR forRRCBs by using Least Significant Difference (LSD)method (SigmaPlot 12.5 Software). Those are used tocompare the mean values of bulk density, porosity andARS of the RRCBs under various refining conditionat the 95% confident level.

7. Results and Discussion7.1 Physical properties of RRCBsThe densities of rice-straw cement composite blockswere found to be lower than the density values of thecommercial cement boards, obviously due to presenceof rice straw fibres in the composites [23, 24]. Also,the bulk density values of the blocks were highlyinfluenced by the rice-straw content in the RRCBs(Table (7.1)) and decreased with increasing rice-strawcontent in the RRCBs. In Table 1, the moisture contentof all RRCBs (Sample A, B, C) with the value of 10%, 12 % and 9 % respectively, is higher than that ofcommercial cement board (Sample -D: 7 %).

7.2. Mechanical properties of RRCBsAs shown in Table. 1 Sample A and B have betterbending strength of 9.6 and 6.8 N/mm2 at lower densityof 907 kg/m3 and 629 kg/m3 respectively. Thus, thesample A and B is efficiently considered as optimumparameters used for cement composition to make fibre

based cement boards. These composite blocks wereprepared for using random cut rice-straw fibres, cementand water. It found to be suitable for sound absorbingmaterials as flexural materials in construction. Theabove statement is in agreed with the results of aprevious study stated that, in designing a material tohave a high sound absorption coefficient, bendingstrength should increase as flexural materials inconstruction [8].

7.3 Effect of rice straw ratio on SACAbsorption of sound by different rice straw boards hasshown significant differences in the values of SAC atlower, medium and higher frequencies (Fig. (4)). Allthe curves obtained from rice-straw reinforced cementboards appeared similar to each other, with stepdecrease in the reduction from 400 - 800 Hz and gradual

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decrease thereafter. However, the RRCBs made using1:1:4 proportion of cement, straw and water specificallyshowed high sound absorption coefficient among thesamples with moderate density and porosity (907 kg/m3 and 0.48 respectively). Low sound absorptioncoefficient was observed in the case of commercialboards (Sample-D) at all the frequency ranges comparedto the rice-straw reinforced cement boards (Sample-A,B & C). In the case of commercial boards, the densityvalue was higher compared to the rice-straw reinforcedcement boards. In addition to the RRCBs resulted inthe lower density values and higher SAC due to thepresence of the rice straw particles [22, 23]. This maybe due to the increase in straw fibre contents as wellas increased the porosity; thus, it shows a compositeporosity of about 0.48 gives the better sound absorptionthroughout the entire range of given frequencies. Theabove statement is in agreed with the results of aprevious study stated that, in designing a material tohave a high sound absorption coefficient, density shouldincrease along with the propagation of the sound wave[23-25].

Figure 7.1: Sound absorption coefficientof RRCBs with density

7.4 Effect of different sound frequency on SACThe graph in Figure 7.1 illustrates three types of trendsin the sound absorbing behavior RRCBs. All theRRCBs (Sample A, B, C) showed high soundabsorption in low frequency sounds, whereas poorabsorption in high frequency sound, and the third casewas showed medium sound absorbance for uppermiddle frequency sound. All the RRCBs poorlyabsorbed in high frequency because of thin samples (3cm), which is in agreed with the results of a previousstudy [32-34] that showed high frequency soundabsorption to be positively related to material thickness.This was confirmed also by the fact that the all samples,

composites with an open structure showed goodabsorption of low frequency due to its greater thickness.Thus, making the composites thicker, regardless of itsdensity, enhanced its absorption of lower frequencysound.

7.5 Effect of bulk density on ASRA comparison of ASR results for various compositesshow composite density to be the major factordetermining sound absorption, even more thancomposite thickness. ASR decreased as compositedensity increased to a certain point, showing the highestvalue at about 907 kg/m3. After this point, ASRincreased (Fig. (7.2)). This is assumed to be highfrequency sound was absorbed more in densecomposite; in other words, in the fiber itself, whereaslow frequency sound was absorbed more in the airpath or in the composite's pores. The above statementis in agreed with the results of a previous study [17,31 & 32] stated that, in designing a material to havea high sound absorption coefficient, density shouldincrease along with the propagation of the sound wave[33-35]. Thus it is recommended that composites bemanufactured with this density for high soundabsorption coefficient. Within a certain range of density(907 kg/m3) of the compositions of RRCBs are expectedto emerge soon as efficient materials for soundabsorption and noise control.

Figure 7.2: Effect of bulk density on ASR

7.6 Effect of porosity on Average Sound Residual(ASR)The pores structure is the important factor that oneshould consider while studying sound absorptionmechanism in porous materials. Equation (3) gives thedefinition for porosity (H) [28]. An Average SoundResidual (ASR) decreased proportional to thecomposites porosity to a certain point of about 0.48,and beyond that point ASR increased as shown inFigure 7.3. The above statement is in agreed with the

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results of a previous study [33-35] stated that, indesigning a material to have a high sound absorptioncoefficient, porosity should increase along thepropagation of the sound wave. The friction betweenthe vibrating air particles and the surface of the poresdissipates energy in the form of heat. Therefore, themain structural properties of the porous materialsaffecting sound absorption are porosity. High porosity(0.48) of composite has lower ASR, whereas lowporosity composites have higher ASR.

Figure 7.3: Effect of porosity on ASR

7.7 Correlation between densities of the RRCBs withSACA good correlation (correlation coefficient, 0.832 -SYSTAT Statistical and Graphical Software) wasobserved between the densities of RRBs and the SACvalues (figure 7.4). The marginal decrease in thecoefficient with increasing frequency was observed.Higher absorption of sound compared to the source, atall the frequency levels were observed in the case ofRRCB made up of 1:1:4 proportions of cement, strawand water (Table 7.1) for the various frequency levelsused for the analysis. The SAC values was found to bedecreasing as follows A > B > C > D, in which thecommercial sample showed only a marginal differencecompared to the source value (reference sound) of thesound in the reverberation chamber. This type ofcomposite boards may be used for many purposesincluding roof and wall sheathing, sub-flooring, interiorsurfaces for walls and ceilings, as bases for plaster andas sound insulation strips for foundation walls andslab floors [36-38].

Figure 7.4: Correlation between densities of thecomposite blocks with sound reduction

7.8 Analysis of Variance (ANOVA) on ASR of RRCBsThe results of analysis of variance (ANOVA) forRRCBs are listed in Table 7.2. It shows that the effectsof refining rice-straw, cement and water blend ratiohave significant effects on ASR in terms of bulk densityand porosity. The mean values according to LeastSignificant Difference (LSD) with pair wisecomparisons of the RRCBs are given in Table 7.3. Thecritical value is the number that the test statistic mustexceed to reject the test. In this Fcrit (8, 3) = 8.85 at? = 0.05. Since F= 137.497 > 8.85, the results aresignificant at the 5% significance level. One wouldreject the null hypothesis, concluding that there isstrong evidence that the expected values in the sixgroups differ. The p-value for this test is P = <0.001.

Table 7.2: One Way Analysis of Varianceon ASR of RRCBs

Source of Variation DF* SS* MS* F* P

Between Subjects 8 718.467 89.808 137.497 <0.001

Between Treatments 3 2955.792 985.264

Residual 24 171.977 7.166

Total 35 3846.237

DF*- Degrees of Freedom; SS*- Sum of Squares; MS* - Meansum of Squares; F* - Variance Ratio

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Table 7.3: The mean value of ASR of RRCBs:Pair wise comparisons on ASR for RRCBs

(Fisher LSD Method)

Comparison Diff of LSD P Diff >=Means (alpha=0.050) LSD

Sample-D vs.Sample-A 25.189 2.604 <0.001 Yes

Sample-D vs.Sample-B 16.461 2.604 <0.001 Yes

Sample-D vs.Sample-C 12.611 2.604 <0.001 Yes

Sample-C vs.Sample-A 12.578 2.604 <0.001 Yes

Sample-C vs.Sample-B 3.85 2.604 0.005 Yes

Sample-B vs.Sample-A 8.728 2.604 <0.001 Yes

8. Economical Study of rice straw reinforced cementboardsCost is a major parameter in any industry. One of themain elements of construction industry is brickmanufacturing and its cost. Also utilization benefits ofa board add indirect savings for comparative purposes.Table 7.4 shows that the manufacturing cost of bothtypes of boards indicates savings up to 25% of thetotal direct cost /1000 boards. This direct saving incosts is added to the environmental profit of recyclingrice straw which is traditionally burnt by farmers inopen fields, boosting air pollution and serious humanhealth problems. Besides, rice straw material is knownfor its high insulation properties which could addanother indirect saving value by minimizing energyconsumption.

Table7.4: Comparison between commercial cementboard and Rice-straw reinforced cement board

Board Type Price /1000 Bricks (INR)

Commercial Standard Brick 4,431

Rice straw-cement brick 3,368

ConclusionIn this study, the development of rice-straw fiberreinforced cement boards was reported. Higher soundabsorption was observed at lower and mediumfrequency levels, while sound absorption graduallydecreased towards high frequency levels of sound.Average sound residual decreased as composite densityincreased to a certain point, showing the highest valueat about 907 kg/m3. Average sound residual decreased

proportional to the composites porosity to a certainpoint of about 0.48, and beyond that point ASRincreased. The SAC values was found to be decreasingas follows A > B > C > D, in which the commercialsample showed only a marginal difference comparedto the source value (reference sound) of the sound inthe reverberation chamber. Sample A and B exhibitedbetter sound absorption compared to the commercialcement board, besides lower density of the blocksproduced. These composite blocks, which wereprepared using random cut rice-straw fibres, cementand water, found to be more suitable for soundabsorbing materials in construction.

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1. INTRODUCTIONClothing is a factor in everyday human lives andinteractions with others. The most obvious function ofclothing is to improve the comfort of the wearer, byprotecting the wearer from the environmentalconditions. It can transmit a vast array of meaningssuch as identity, value, mood, and attitude.

Clothes give you self-confidence and express yourpersonality. Clothes also help you identify with otherpeople. Consumers in different age groups may havetheir own unique perceptions and preferences inclothing. Retail salesperson and serious consumers arethe backbone of the textiles industry. Technology ismoving fast and so is the consumer and salesperson[1].

1.1 ConsumerA person who purchases goods and services for personaluse is known as a consumer. Every consumer brings aset of expectations to their purchase process. Theirexpectations are the function of past history as well asof the current purchase situation.Fashionable clothing

resulted in perceptions of greater sociability than didunfashionable clothing. A person wearing fashionableclothing receives more positive interactions with othersthan a person wearing outof-date clothing [2].

1.1.1 Consumer behaviorConsumer behavior is the behavior that consumersdisplay in searching for, purchasing, using, evaluatingproducts or services and ideas that they expect willsatisfy their needs [3]. It is the behavior of the ultimateconsumers, those who purchase products for personalor household use and not for business purpose.Knowledge of consumer behavior directly affectsmarketing strategy. Also women and men have differentbuying behavior[4].Following are the factorsaffectingconsumer behavior:◆ Occupation◆ Economic status◆ Life Style◆ Attitude◆ Social factors◆ Personality

1.1.2 Consumer Decision -Making processThe words of 'Napoleon I' - 'nothing is more difficult,and therefore more precious, than to be able to decide'tell us that the decision-making process stands as acolossus among the routine phenomena in everydaylife of people [5].When making a purchase decision,

A Survey Report on Retail Salesperson and SeriousConsumers in Textiles and Apparels: Win-win strategy

Mangesh D. Teli*, Bhagyashri Annaldewar, Bholenath Upadhyay & Pooja PanchalDepartment of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology,

Institute of Chemical Technology

AbstractThe present study was conducted with an objective to gain information from serious consumers and retailsalesperson regarding the basic knowledge they have of their textile products. In today's world, whereeverything is alloyed, it is quintessential to ensure that serious consumers are not cheated and thus it isnecessary to educate them with basic information they must have regarding their textiles products. Also,salespeople are a link between producers and customers and they must have consumer knowledge, analyticaland interpersonal skills since a salesperson is a direct reflection of the entire company. The study revealedthat consumer preferences are changing rapidly and becoming highly diversified. Majority of consumers aremore concern about the quality of their apparels by giving less importance to other parameters such as price,brand and fashion. This study clearly indicates that salesperson needs to be educated regarding Eco-labelson apparels, quality marks and economical substitutes of various fabrics.

KeywordsConsumer, Retail salesperson, Quality, Eco- labels

*All correspondence should be addressed to,Prof. (Dr.) M.D. Teli,Institute of Chemical Technology, Matunga (E),Mumbai-400019, IndiaTel.: +91-022-33612811Email : [email protected]


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consumers always judges the relative values of variousalternatives and if the known products or brands arenot corresponding to the rating, the consumers may goin for further search.

Following are the factors affecting Consumer Decision-Making process:◆ Price of the product◆ Quality of the product◆ Lifestyle of the consumer◆ Gender difference◆ Age difference◆ Social influence◆ Suggestions of others

1.2 Retail salespersonA retail salesperson is someone who sells productsdirectly to consumer. A retail salesperson will typicallygreet and welcome a customer in a friendly andengaging manner, then proceeds to help them find whatthey are looking for in the store.Friendliness,availability, product knowledge, and appearance areimportant characteristics of a salesperson [6].The morethe consumer likes the salesperson, the more likely theconsumer accepts the salesperson's recommendations.

1.2.1 Salesperson's selling behaviorSelling behavior of a salesperson includes adapting toconsumers, establishing influence bases, using effectivetechniques, and controlling the sales interaction. Many-times consumers give up their power in theinteractionand asked the salesperson for recommendations andhere the skill set of the salesperson plays a veryimportant role in selecting the most desirable apparelfor the consumer [7].Salespersons need to observe theircustomers carefully to understand each customer'sshopping behaviors.

1.2.2 Influence of the Salesperson on ConsumerA salesperson can have a strong influence on consumersduring shopping. As a critical factor of thesalesperson'sappearance, appropriate clothing of the salesperson maybe an important factor in influencing apparel consumersatisfaction with salesperson's performance. A consumermay fully anticipate buying a particular brand ofproduct, but this purchase intention may not be fulfilledif the appearance of the salesperson is notappropriate.Conversely,a consumer may lack interestin buying a product, but because of the influence ofclothing typeof the salesperson, the consumer maypurchase theproduct [8].

2. MATERIALS & METHODOLOGY2.1 Selection of methodThe geographic area of study was Mumbai. Forcollection of data, survey method was adopted. Thesurvey was done in two ways viz; online survey bypreparing a google form and sending by email toconsumers, and face to face survey by visiting mallsand showrooms and contacting retail salespersons.Questionnaire was prepared and information wascollected.

2.2 Selection of sampleIn all, 209 people participated, 58 % male and 42 %female of which 158 were consumers and 51 retailsalesperson from 41 different branded shops.Withinconsumers, 80 % were students and non earnersconsumers, 10 % of them earned upto Rs 3lakhs/annum,3 % earned between Rs 3 lakhs to Rs 6 lakhs/annumand 7 % earnedabove Rs 6 lakhs/annum.

2.3 Data collectionThe primary data was collected by gatheringinformationthrough questionnaire and secondary datawascollected from books, journals, magazines,researchpapers, news reports and internet for analysis.

2.4 Analysis of dataThe data from the response of the questionnaire wasfilled directly into coding sheets by assigning numeralsto the responses. This facilitates graphicalanalysis ofdata which reflects the percentage of data.

3. Results and Discussion3.1. Consumer3.1.1 With reference to their shopping behaviorResponding to the questions with regard to theshoppingbehavior of the consumers, the responses were asfollow:

Figure 3.1 : Shopping sites


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When asked about their shopping sites, majority of thepeople i.e. 63 (42%) said that they purchase theirclothes from LOCAL SHOPS whereas 58 (39%)respondents buy from malls. 24 (16%) respondentspurchased their clothes from online stores and only 5(3%) respondents from street hawkers. From Figure3.1, it is clear that difference in consumer's shoppingsite is mainly due to the consumer's lifestyle andeconomical background. Also, local shops are preferredas they allow a consumer to get full knowledge ofproduct.

Figure 3.2 : Frequency of buying clothes

When enquired about the frequency of buying clothes(Figure 3.2), a majority of respondents i.e. 45 (30%)purchased clothes 2 to 3 times in THREE monthsfollowed by purchasing clothes less than 4 times inone year and 3 to 4 times in six months, respectively.

Figure 3.3 : Duration of using clothes

Majority of the consumers interviewed belong to middleclass society and they were asked aboutthe durationof using their clothes. As seen from Figure 3.3, 70(47%), that is majority of the people used their clothesTILL IT IS WORN OUT,35 (24%) respondents usedtheir clothes up to 1 year,33 (22%) respondents stoodfor using their clothes up to 6 months and least usageof the clothes was accounted for using them up to 3months. This indicates that people want to make the

most out of their money which they have spent to buytheir clothes.

Figure 3.4 : Reason for shopping in advance

Respondents were questioned about the reason forshopping in advance and their responses are shown inFigure 3.4.71 (54%) people preferred shopping inadvance but due to some OTHER reasons, whereas 38(29%) respondents said that price of the product ismuch lower when they shop in advance. 22 (17%)respondents told that they shop in advance because ofthe good promotions and offers provided by thecompany.

Figure 3.5 : Basic expectation from theirclothes

As seen in Figure 3.5, multiple options were given forthe question regarding the basic expectations from theirclothes. Majority of the consumers i.e. 118 (80%) ofthe total consumers preferred COMFORT and expectthe same from their clothes. Whereas 81 (58%) of thetotal consumers expected that good appearance fromtheir clothes, which indicate that they "Dress toImpress". 64 (43%) of the total consumers expecteddurability, 59 (40%) of the total consumers expectedless colour fading and only 44 (30%)of the totalconsumers expected durability or strength from theirclothes. This clearly indicates that comfort is the mostexpected attribute of a textile product by seriousconsumers.

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Figure 3.6 : Most preferred parameter

Enquiring about the most preferred parameter whileshopping for apparels(Figure 3.6), about 99 (66%)respondents said that they preferred QUALITY themost, while shopping for their clothes. However,fashion comes second on the list of most preferredparameter followed by brand and price, respectively.This indicates that consumers are more concern aboutthe quality of their clothes by giving less importanceto other parameters such as price, brand and fashion.

3.1.2 With reference to Branded Vs Non-BrandedResponding to the questions with regard to theirpreference for branded and non branded clothes, theresponses are as follow:

Figure 3.7 : Preference of Branded and Non branded

Figure 3.7 shows the consumer's preferences amongbranded and non-branded clothes, most respondentsi.e. 99 (67%) said that they prefer BRANDED clothesover the non-branded one, which is understandable asmajority of respondents were students belonging toaspiring class of society.

Figure 3.8 : Identification of branded ornon-branded clothes

Figure 3.8 indicates that 72 (49%) people used TAGas a key to find that their clothes are the branded one.Whereas 60 (41%) respondents recognized brandedclothes by the feel of the fabric on the skin and only15 (10%) respondents felt that price is the determiningfactor for the branded clothes. This indicates thatdifferent people have different perception ofunderstanding the difference between branded and non-branded clothes.

Figure 3.9: Parameters for differentiating brandedcloth from non-branded clothes

Consumers were asked about the parameters whichmake a branded cloth different from non-branded one.As seen from Figure 3.9, majority of the people i.e.94(63%) respondents felt that HIGH QUALITY OF THEPRODUCT is the parameter that makes a branded clothdifferent from a non-branded one. Whereas 28 (19%)respondents preferred their answer as high endprocessing of the fabric and 18 (12%) respondentssupported advertisement. Only 9 (6%) respondents gavecredit to the company's background to make a brandedcloth different from a non-branded one. This showsthat people do believe that branded clothes havesuperior quality than that of non-branded clothes.

3.1.3 With reference to their knowledge regarding theirtextile materialResponding to the questions with respect to their basicknowledge related to textile materials, the responsesare as follow:

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Q.1 Which fabric material you prefer for yourtrousers from comfort point of view?79 (55%) respondents preferred POLYESTER/COTTON blend, whereas 56 (39%) respondentspreferred COTTON for their trousers from comfortpoint of view and the rest go for other options.

Q.2 According to you, which fabric material getswrinkled very easily?A total of 99 (68%) respondents felt that COTTONfabric material gets wrinkled very easily.

Q.3 Which material will you choose for your towelso that it absorbs maximum water?A total of 104 (72%) respondents would chooseCOTTON for their towels so that it absorbs maximumwater.

Q.4 Which fabric material would you use toextinguish fire?75 (53%) respondents would use WOOL fabricmaterial, whereas 57 (26%) respondents would usePOLYESTER fabric material and 30 (21%) respondentswould use COTTON fabric material to extinguish fire.

This indicates that a good number of the consumersprefer P/C blend for trousers; also according to themcotton fabric wrinkles easily and has maximum waterabsorbency. Wool fabric material is the most preferredfabric for extinguishing fire. This showed the gooddegree of knowledge of fibre properties in applicationpoint of view, exists amongst the consumers. This mustbe due to increased information flow available indifferent media.

3.1.4 With reference to style of clothing◆ SUITINGS & FORMALS : 95(67%)

respondents preferred RAYMOND for suitings,whereas 9 (6%) respondents preferred SIYARAMand 4 (3%) respondents preferred BOMBAYDYEING. However, a total of 34 (24%) preferredsome OTHER brand for their suiting purpose.

◆ TRADITIONALS : 37 (28%) respondentspreferred FAB INDIA and almost same numberof respondents i.e. 36 (27%) preferredMANYAWAR for their traditional clothing. 26(19%) respondents preferred GLOBAL DESI, 21(16%) respondents preferred BIBA, 7 (5%)respondents preferred NALLI and least preferredKALANJALI and REGAL.

◆ HOME FURNISHINGS : 55 (40%)respondentspreferred BOMBAY DYEING and 30 (22%)respondents preferred D'DECOR for their home

furnishing. However, 28 (20%) respondentspreferred LIFESTYLE,12 (9%) respondentspreferred FAB INDIA and least preferred brandslike PORTICO, BIANCA, WEAVES andSWAYAM for home furnishing.

◆ SHIRTINGS : 42 (30%)respondents preferredPETER ENGLAND and 30 (21%) respondentspreferred ARROW for their shirting purpose.14(10%) respondents preferred CENTURYCOTTON, 12 (9%) respondents preferredMARKS 'N' SPENCER and least preferred brandslike COLOUR PLUS, MADURA GARMENTSand OXEMBERG. However, 32 (30%)respondents preferred some OTHER brand fortheir shirts.

3.1.5 With preference to Environmental practices usedto manufacture clothesQ.1 Are you aware of the term "Textile-seals" OR"Eco-Labels"?A total of 71% (102) respondents were aware of theterm "Textile-seals" OR "Eco-Labels".

Q.2 Are you ready to pay little extra money foreco-friendly products?A total of 46% (67) respondents are willing to paylittle extra money for eco-friendly products, whereas44% (65) respondents felt that they maypay little extramoney for eco-friendly products.

Q.3 Do you sincerely follow the instructions givenon the "care label" of your clothes?57% (83) respondents felt that they sincerely followthe instructions given on the "care label" of the clothes.

This indicates that majority of the consumers are awareof Eco-Labels and they are ready to pay a little extramoney for eco-friendly products. Also they sincerelyfollow the instructions given on the "care label".

3.2 Retail salesperson3.2.1 With reference to their knowledge in textile field

Figure 3.10 : Sources relied for advising customers

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Salespeople were asked about sources they rely foradvising customers. Figure 3.10shows that 25(49%)respondents used their TEXTILE KNOWLEDGEFOR ADVISING CUSTOMERS, a close second waspast experience with customers which was chosen by23(45%) respondents, Also 3 (6%) respondents suggestedtheir customers by looking on the labels at the end ofbolt and it was good to see that no one suggested onbasis of what others may have said. This indicates thatsalespeople suggest customers on their understandingof textile.

Figure 3.11: Methods of differentiating various fabrics

Respondents were asked about method used by themto differentiate various fabrics. As seen fromFigure3.11, 26 (51%) respondents said, they differentiatedvarious fabric by FEEL,18 (35%) respondentsdifferentiated on their understanding and 7 (14%)respondents distinguished fabrics by looking at the tag.This marks that respondents prefer differentiating fabricby feeling it.

Figure 3.12: Season of maximum sales at shops

Respondents were questioned about season ofmaximum sales at their shops with multiple optionsand their responses are shown in Figure 3.12. It showsthat38 (74%) of the respondents observed that sale attheir shops was highest during FESTIVE SEASON,27(53%) of the respondents said that during annual salethey had maximum footfall of customers and thusmaximum sales,22 (43%) of the respondents markedthat during holidays they had good amount of sales attheir shops, while 10 (20%) of the respondents said

that few customers prefer buying clothes before festiveseason. This shows that customers prefer purchasingduring festive season.

3.2.2 With reference to their knowledge regardingSilk fabric

Figure 3.13 : What is Art Silk?

Figure 3.13 shows the responses of salespeople aboutthe term 'Art Silk'. It can be seen that, majority ofabout 26 (51%) respondents were UNAWARE of it,15(29%) respondents guessed it to be silk, 9 (18%)respondents correctly answered it be rayon. This marksthat majority of people fail to have information about"art silk".

Figure 3.14: Identification of pure silk fabric

Salespeople were asked about various methods toidentify pure silk fabric and their responses are shownin Figure 3.14, 16 (31%) respondents suggested that ifthe FABRIC RECOVERS FROM THE CREASEFORMED BY CRUSHING, it is pure silk.9(17%)respondents said that if the fabric of low plypasses through the wedding ring it is real silk,6 (12%)respondents recognized silk by its luster, while11 (21%)respondents suggested some other method and9 (17%)respondents were unacquainted with any such method.This indicates that different salesperson have differentmethods of identifying pure silk.

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3.2.3 With reference to their knowledge regardingWool fabric

Figure 3.15: What is virgin wool?

Figure 3.15 shows the responses of salespeople aboutthe term "Virgin wool". It can be seen that ,20 (39%)respondents appropriately said that it is the fibre whichhas not been used in fabric previously, 9 (18%) guessedit to be wool from fleece of lambs, 2 (4%) respondentssaid it to be second grade fabric while 20 (39%)respondents were unaware of it. This shows thatmajority of salespeople don't have knowledge aboutvirgin wool.3.2.4 With reference to purchasing behavior ofcustomers

Figure 3.16 : Preference of customers

When enquired about preference of customers, 27(53%) salespeople said that QUALITYwas mostpreferred by customers; 9 (18%) respondents said thatbrand was favourite choice of people; 8 (16%) believedthat price was number one option, while 7 (14%)respondents said that fashion and trend were highlyrecommended..Figure 3.16 indicates that people aremore conscious about quality of their textile product.

Figure 3.17 : Reason for selling branded clothes athigher prices

Respondents were questioned about reason of sellingbranded clothes at higher prices and their responsesare shown in Figure 3.17. 32 (63%) respondents saidthat branded clothes are sold at higher prices becauseof SUPREME QUALITY USED;13 (25%) respondentssaid that it may be due to high-end process used and6 (12%) respondents believed that it is due toestablished brand name. This shows that people believethat due to use of supreme quality of products offeredby brands, they are most preferred.

Figure 3.18 : Major challenge faced by salespersonwhile encountering with various customers

Salespeople were asked about major challenges theyface while encountering various customers, As seenfrom Figure3.18,26 (51%) respondents thought thatWINDOW SHOPPERS were major problem, while 9(17%) respondents thought simultaneous serving ischallenging, followed were about 5 (10%) respondentsof them saying second trial deal, selling on phone andfrequent change in fashion were a tough task to dealwith. This marks that window shoppers seem to be anuisance for salespeople.

3.2.5With reference to background of a RetailSalespersonQ.1Do you have any educational background relatedto textiles?45 (88%) retail salesperson didn't haveany educationalbackground related to textiles.

Q.2Do you have any previous experience as asalesperson? If yes, then in what field?43 (87%) had previous experience as a salesperson butonly 38 (74%) of the respondents had it in the field oftextiles sales.

Q.3Have you taken any training given by shop,before you interact with customers?38 (74%) of interviewed salespeople had taken trainingby company, before they interacted with customers.

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This marks that most of the salesperson have takentraining given by their respective shopkeepers.Although, most of them do not have educationalbackground related to textiles, but they can correctlysell their textile products due to their previousexperience.

3.2.6 With reference to their knowledge in eco-friendlyclothingQ.1Have you heard about Organic Clothing?Majority of about 37 (72%) respondents had not heardabout organic clothing.Q.2Are you aware about Eco-Labels on Textileproducts?32 (63%) of respondents were unaware of eco-labelson textile products.

This indicates that those salespersons are unaware oforganic clothing, eco-labels and different brands relatedto it.3.2.7 With reference to their general knowledge ofvarious fabricsQ.1Talking about wool, do you know the cheapsubstitute for wool? What is it?23 (46%) of interviewed salesperson knew that theeconomical substitute of wool is acrylic.

This marks that salespeople are somewhat aware aboutthe economical substitute of wool.

4. CONCLUSIONThe consumers and salesperson have sufficientknowledge about the fabric made from cotton, wooland silk, but they fail to know their various substitutes.Different consumers have different perception ofunderstanding the difference between branded and non-branded clothes. Many of the consumers do likeexciting offers and different promotion couponsprovided by the company. Also, Indian consumers wantto make the most out of their money which they spendto buy their clothes. Consumers are more concern aboutthe quality of their clothes by giving less importanceto other parameters such as price, brand and fashion.Indian salespeople are unaware of eco-labels onapparels, organic clothing, its importance andbrandsrelated to it. It is essential to educate people about it.

They feel that modern customersbelieve in foreignbrands more than the Indian ones as they offer supremequality of textileproducts. As tradition, customers preferbuying during festive season; also Annual Sale seemstoattract Indians. Majority of salesperson believe thatwindow shoppers are a major problem, butthey aretrained to tackle them well.

REFERENCES

1. Cho S., Influence of Consumer Age and ClothingType of Salesperson on consumer Satisfactionwith Salesperson's Performance, Master of sciencein clothing and textiles, 1-80,(2001).

2. Taylor S., and Cosenza R., The Impact Of E-Commerce On The Merchandising of Women'sClothing In Traditional Shopping Centers/Malls,Journal of shopping centre research, 46-56,(2000).

3. Islam M., and Aktar S.,Role of Brands onConsumer's Buying Behavior in Bangladesh: AStudy on Fashion Cloth, European Journal ofBusiness and Management, 5, 164-174, (2013).

4. Prakash M.R., and Saravanan N., A Study onFemale Consumers Buying Behavior TowardsTextile Showrooms in Chennai, Indian journal ofapplied research, 15, 85-87, (2015).

5. Taylor S., and Cosenza R., The Impact Of E-Commerce On The Merchandising Of WomenClothing In Traditional Shopping Centers/Malls,Journal of shopping centre research, 46-56, (2000).

6. Merwe D., Bosman M., Ellis S., Colff N., andWarnock M.,Consumers knowledge of textile labelinformation: an exploratory investigation,International Journal of Consumer Studies, 38,18-24,(2014).

7. Azevedo S., Pereira M., and Pedroso V., ConsumerBuying behavior in Fashion Retailing: EmpiricalEvidencies, Munich Personal RePEc Archive, 407-411, (2008).

8. Gillivray M., and Wilson B., Clothing andAppearance among Early, Middle and LateAdolescents, Clothing and Textiles ResearchJournal, 15, 43-49, (1997).

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Meet your potential clients, boosting your salesand marketing activities


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Mr. R.N. Yadav is having a wideexperience in the Textile Industry oflast 47 years' service in Spinning &Composite Mills. He has started hiscareer from the supervisory level andgradually with his skill and talent inwork experience he elevated to the MillPresident. He has occupied theindependent top authority of VicePresident & President during his last34 years' service.

Mr. Yadav worked with leadingindustrial houses like BharatCommerce & Industries, BhilwaraGroup, Mohota Group, Suryalata,Siddhartha and Jagdamba Group(Nepal).

Mr. Yadav independently started &worked successfully four new projectsand renovated five mills. Heestablished many new milestones inquality & productivity. He presentedseveral papers in textile conferencesand other meets affiliated to textileindustries. He has 90+ technical &managerial papers published in textilejournals and national dailies. He haswritten a hand book "Productivity" onstrategic industrial management in2004.

He is the recipient of Precitex award& Life Time achievement award fromThe Textile Association (India),M.P.Unit.

He is Patron Member, The TextileAssociation (India) and Life Member,Indian Environmental Association.

Presently Mr. Yadav is working withThe R.S.R. Mohota Mills, Hinganghat(a composite textile unit) as President.

R. N. Yadav

TEXPERIENCE

Abstract :Today textile industry has tough completion for productivityand profit. During processing cost reduction is strongly needed and one ofthe area is hard waste control. In the present paper possible hints aresummarized for keeping the hard waste at minimum level in varioussectionsof spinning, weaving and during transportation whether internal or external.The study is limited for ring spinning system, conventional looms and air-jet looms only, working on cotton and blends.

Keywords :balance sheet, ATIRA, BTRA, NITRA, SITRA, knotting,splicing, unsized hard waste, sized hard waste, comfort zone, ambientcondition, English count Ne, Composite mill.

Introduction :Wastage of anything is bad. Be it human, time, input, power,product or by product. In textile industry and particularly spinning andweaving mills soft waste, hard waste and dust are main waste generatedduring mechanical processing of fibre and yarn to produce grey fabric. Aneffort is made in this paper to standardize the hard waste being necessarilygenerated during production. Minimum the levels of hard waste better theproductivity.

Hardwaste is nothing but yarn waste produced in all departments fromspinning onward. The hardwaste can be classified into two varieties byorigin -(a) Fixed Waste(b) Variable Waste

Fixed waste is that waste which is inherent in the very working of theprocess e.g., piecing wastein spinning, creeling and piecing waste inwinding, warping, pirn winding, creel on sizing, knotting of beams, changeof weft, pirn or cone, selvedge cutting on looms, etc.

Whereas variable waste arises on account of spoilages and poor performanceof operators, process materials, process parameters and machines. Suchtype of classification helps in controlling hard waste. Proper care duringmaterial handling, good house-keeping and regular training of operativesare always helpful to control variable hard waste.

Maintaining a detailed record of hard waste section-wise, machine-wiseand operator-wise in each shift of production helps a lot to act and minimizehard waste. Mind set is the only basic element to establish norms fordifferent section for cotton and synthetic material being processed inspinning and weaving sections. Various research institutions like ATIRA,BTRA, NITRA, SITRA, etc. have done lot of research work and guidedmill personnel in reducing hard wasteand improving productivity. Evenpoint one percent reduction in hard waste has impact on balance sheet ofmedium and large size mills making difference of lakhs of rupees. Reductionof hard waste is possible by working on -

(1) Technicals - Concerning machine and process parameters.(2) Operations - Improving skill of operatives by training, re-training

time-to-time on various types ofmachines.(3) Ambientcondition of departments must be always in comfort zone

having requisite moisture content in air, preferably 12-15 gms/M3 incotton and blend spinning and 14-19gms/M3 in Weaving section.Comfort zone condition means temperature near room temperatureand never above human body temperature and related humidity nearpleasant to body feel.

How to Control Hard Waste


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Hard Waste GenerationBasic causes of hard waste generation are mentionedbelow -◆ Ring Frame - while piecing broken ends.◆ Winding/Autoconer - while knotting/splicing cut

ends due to fault clearing and cop change.◆ Assemby/TFO/Doubler - while creeling/knotting/

splicing.◆ Reeling - for hank forming from ring cops, doubler

cops, cones, cheese, etc.◆ During unwinding/winding of dyed yarn from

cheeses or cones.◆ Warping - taking ends for warp sheet forming,

jointing broken ends etc.◆ Pirn winding - jointing broken ends, defective

pirns.◆ Sizing - drawing warp sheets, entanglements.◆ Drawing & Knotting - ends drawn length,

entanglements, Knotting ends.◆ Loom - beam gaiting/knotiing, last warp sheets,

selvedge, fringe cut yarns, extra warp yarn.◆ Grey folding - clippings, mendings.

SpinningRing frame tenter should not make bad piecing, eitherlong ends from front roller nip or from back of deliverycot, generally known as over piecing. Short and longthick places are produced by such bad operationalpractices result in cut at winding stage and so hardwaste generation. Slough-offs and top/bottom spoilageof ring cops should not be at all. On new generationring frame tail end must be correctly adjusted as peryarn fineness and starting spindle speed. Ring cop yarnquality must be nearly fault-free. Sometimes long thickand thin places in yarn are being created due to doubleroving fed by operator at inter, ring-frame creel orduring manual creel change by ring-frame tenter.

WindingThe winding section contributes substantially to overall hard waste around 60 percent in yarn forming milland 20 percent in composite mill. Bad bobbins andbad cones contribute to most of the hard waste. Whereyarn dyeing or doubling is involved, it will furtherincrease the hard waste generation.The reasons for hard waste at winding stage are asunder and corrective action needed technically,mechanically and operationally to reduce the hard wastegeneration.◆ Winding attendant rejecting bottoms.◆ Double gaiting and thick yarns.◆ Damaged bobbins surface.◆ Fine yarns.◆ Soft yarn, ring-cut, anti-balloon ring-cut, spoiled

doffs, overfilled doffs, etc.◆ Winding Drum defects.◆ Material handling.◆ Bad storing condition.

◆ More cuts at winding stage. As a norm, windingcuts should be below the yarn count, Ne.

For example,Winding cuts 60 in case of 60s count, 30 in case of30s count and so.

WarpingThe reasons of hard waste generation at warping stageconsist of following elements -◆ Damaged package,◆ Package fault like bottom stitches, ribbons, too

hard package or too soft package causingunwindingproblemsand slough-offs respectively.

◆ Weak yarn causing end breaks.◆ Creel boy taking too much yarn from package

while creeling.◆ Variation in creel tension, causing loose/tight ends.◆ Rough warp beam surface.◆ Beam flange not correctly set.◆ Warp sheet not correctly matched in the comb.◆ Improper mending of broken ends.

Preventive & corrective actions are very much neededto control hard waste. Some of the points as under -

◆ Average yarn tension should be adjusted accordingto yarn count within 5 percent of the singlethreadstrength of the yarn.

◆ Beam density should be correct and beam sizemaximum possible.

◆ Ambient conditions should be correctlymaintained.

◆ Perfect preventive maintenance and a good house-keeping is must.

◆ Concentricity of beam-flange be assured.◆ Stop-motion and brakes be fully effective.◆ Yarn on the beam should not have any frictional

damage right from creel package to beamformation point.

◆ Thelength of yarn sheet that can be accommodatedon the warper's beam should not be too low -otherwise there will be large increase in hardwaste.

◆ The set length has to be kept the same on all thecommon beams.

◆ Warp beam should not have damaged flange orbent shaft.

◆ All the warp breaks should be tied with samewarp ends or otherwise it will lead to lappers andmigration of ends during sizing causing hard wastegeneration.

SizingThe followings are the requisite to minimize the hardwaste in sizing and afterwards -◆ Excess lappers and migration ends.◆ Performance of size yarn be up-to norm & above.◆ Sizing ingredients and process, if uncontrolled


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loom breaks occurrencebecomes high, particularwarp-wise.

◆ Size fall on loom be minimum, again to reducebreaks.

◆ Size beam flange must be concentric andundamaged.

◆ Uniform tension from end to end.◆ Ends wound on must be straight and parallel to

each other, with no rolled, crossed, stuck or lostends.

◆ Uniform warp density throughout the sized beam.◆ Selvedge ends not high or low but flat with the

warp.◆ Uniform application of the size.

Preventive & corrective measures during Sizing◆ Warper beams having the same yarn length or

multiple of it should be selected to form a set forsizing.This will reduce hard waste at grey stage.

◆ Damaged warping beams should not be used as itwill lead to problem of lappers during sizing.

◆ Size preparation, proper ingredient and mixing,size adds on and proper process control must tominimize sized yarn waste.

◆ No sticky sizing at all. Proper size processparameters be there to deliver 1st layer to lastlayer for standard size beam functionality.

Non-automatic looms:The following reasons are there for hard wastegeneration -◆ Weft bottom◆ Defective pirns◆ Extra ends◆ Floats◆ Shuttle smashes◆ Tail ends

Weft bottom can be reduced by proper alignment ofpirns, reducing the weft breaks at the end of pirn.Extra ends can be reduced by controlling the lappersat the sizing. Carelessness by drawers and knotters isalso a cause of extra ends. Proper loom settings andgood house keeping can reduce the incidence of floats.Tail end, which is the length of yarn remaining on theloom, is from weaver to breast beam. When the beamis exhausted, it should not exceed two meters. And themost important, standard ambient conditions must bemaintained.

Automatic LoomsThe following are the main reasons for hard wastegeneration -◆ Control of the quality of yarn and package.◆ Control of warp and weft breakages.◆ Efficient House-keeping.◆ Standard ambient conditions.

And to control◆ Battery filler doesn't unwind more than fifty

centimeter of yarn while creeling.◆ Yarn length on reserve should be just enough for

five picks.◆ Proper functioning of filler motion.◆ No more extra ends. Extra ends should be hardly

one end for 1000 ends in warp.◆ Loom tail not more than two meters.◆ Material handling equipments and storage system

be correct.◆ Proper ambient condition in comfort zone be

maintained.

What should be amount of Hard Waste?Records for hard waste generation and control werecollected for a continuous period of six years in acomposite mills working on cotton, synthetic andblended yarn and cloth manufacturing and the normswere established scientifically taking into account ofvarious facts of technical and operational elements.

Below is the summarized norms and super normsregarding hard waste generation in terms of percentageofproduction. Super norms are applicable for fullyautomatic and under control operational mills.

S. No. Section Hard Waste %Norms Super

Norms1 Spinning 0.10 0.05

2 Winding 0.30 0.20

3 Doubling / T.F.O. 0.10 0.05

4 Warping 0.35 0.25

5 Sizing 0.45 0.35

6 Loom Shed 0.90 0.75

Total 2.20 1.65

ConclusionHard waste is a necessary evil. Reduce it to the levelof necessary and finish evil. That means allow onlytechnically needed generation and limit it by completecontrol on operational bad habits.

Author:R.N. YadavPresident,The RaiSahebRekhchandMohota Spinning & WeavingMills Ltd.Hinganghat - 442 301, Dist. Wardha (M.S)E-mail: [email protected]


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Clay is a fine-grained natural rock or soil material thatcombines one or more clay minerals with traces ofmetal oxides and organic matter. Geologic clay depositsare mostly composed of phyllosilicate mineralscontaining variable amounts of water entrapped intothe mineral structure. Clays are plastic due to that watercontent and become hard, brittle and non-plastic upondrying or firing. Depending on the soil's content inwhich it is found, clay can appear in various coloursfrom white to dull grey or brown to deep orange-red.Clays form flat hexagonal sheets similar to the micas.Clay minerals are common weathering products(including weathering of feldspar) and low-temperaturehydrothermal alteration products. Clay minerals arevery common in soils, in fine-grained sedimentary rockssuch as shale, mudstone, and siltstone and in fine-grained metamorphic slate and phyllite.

Depending on the academic source, there are mainlythree or four main groups of clays: Kaolinite,Montmorillonite-Smectite, Illite, and Chlorite. Thereare approximately 30 different types of "pure" clays inthese categories, but most of the "natural" clay depositsare mixtures of these different types, along with otherweathered minerals.

Kaolinite : Itis a clay mineral, part of the group ofindustrial minerals, with the chemical compositionAl

2Si

2O

5(OH)

4. A layered silicate mineral, with one

tetrahedral sheet of silica (SiO4) linked through oxygen

atoms to one octahedral sheet of alumina (AlO6). Rocks

that are rich in kaolinite are known as kaolin or chinaclay.Kaolinite has a low shrink-swell capacity and alow cation-exchange capacity (1-15 meq/100 g). It isa soft, earthy, usually white, mineral(dioctahedralphyllosilicate clay), produced by thechemical weathering of aluminium silicate mineralslike feldspar.

Figure 1: Structure of Kaolinite

Clays: Perspective in TextilesSaptarshi Maiti, Debarghya Mukherjee, Geetal Mahajan & R. V. Adivarekar

Montmorillonite : Is a very soft phyllosilicate groupof minerals that form when they precipitate from watersolution as microscopic crystals, known as clay.Montmorillonite, a member of the smectite group, is a2:1 clay, meaning that it has two tetrahedral sheets ofsilica sandwiching a central octahedral sheet ofalumina.The individual crystals of montmorillonite clayare not tightly bound hence water can intervene, causingthe clay to swell. The water content of montmorilloniteis variable and it increases greatly in volume when itabsorbs water. Chemically, it is hydrated sodiumcalcium aluminium magnesium silicate hydroxide(Na,Ca)

0.33(Al,Mg)

2(Si

4O

10)(OH)

2·nH

2O.Potassium, iron

and other cations are common substitutes, and the exactratio of cations varies with source. It often occursintermixed with chlorite, muscovite, illite, cookeite,and kaolinite.

Figure 2: Structure of Montmorillonite

Illite : Is a non-expanding clay crystalline mineral. Itis a secondary mineral precipitate phyllosilicate orlayered alumino-silicate. Its structure is a 2:1 clay ofsilica tetrahedron-alumina octahedron-silica tetrahedronlayers. The space between individual clay crystals isoccupied by poorly hydrated potassium cations whichare responsible for the absence of swelling. Thechemical formula is given as(K,H

3O)(Al,Mg,Fe)

2(Si,Al)

4O

10[(OH)

2,(H

2O)].The

cation-exchange capacity (CEC) of illite is smaller thanthat of smectite but higher than that of kaolinite,typically around 20 - 30 meq/100 g.


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Figure 3: Structure of Illite

Chlorites : These are not always considered to be aclay, but sometimes being classified as a separate groupwithin the phyllosilicates.The typical general formulais(Mg,Fe)

3(Si,Al)

4O

10(OH)

2·(Mg,Fe)

3(OH)

6. This

formula emphasizes the structure of the group.Chloriteshave a 2:1 sandwich structure (2:1 sandwich layer i.e.tetrahedral-octahedral-tetrahedral). Unlike other 2:1clay minerals, a chlorite's interlayer space (the spacebetween each 2:1 sandwich filled by a cation) iscomposed of (Mg2+, Fe3+)(OH)

6. This (Mg2+, Fe3+)(OH)6

unit is more commonly referred to as the brucite-likelayer, due to its closer resemblance to the mineralbrucite (Mg(OH)

2).That's why often they are called

2:1:1 minerals.

Figure 4: Structure of Chlorite

Applications of Clay in Textiles

Figure 5: Applications in Textiles

NanocompositesClay/polymernanocomposites offer tremendousimprovement in a wide range of physical andengineering properties of polymers. This technologycan now be applied commerciallyand has received greatattention in recent years. The nanocomposite using clayapproach has advantages over traditional fibrereinforced composites in the low filler loading range.Clay/polymer nanocomposites are typical examples ofnanotechnology. This class of material uses smectite-type clays, such as hectorite, montmorillonite, andsynthetic mica, as fillers to enhance the properties ofpolymers. Smectite-type clays have a layered structure.Each layer is constructed from tetrahedrally coordinatedSi atoms fused into an edge shared octahedral plane ofeither Al(OH)

3 or Mg(OH)

2. According to the nature

of the bonding between these atoms, the layers shouldexhibit excellent material properties parallel to the layerdirection. The principle used in clay/polymernanocomposites is to separate not only aggregates butalso individual silicate layers in a polymer by whichthe excellent mechanical properties of the individualclay layers can function effectively, while the numberof reinforcing components also increases dramaticallybecause each clay particle contains hundreds orthousands of layers. As a result, awide range ofengineering properties can be significantly improvedwith a low level of filler loading, typically less than5%.

UV-ProtectionThe harmful effects of sunlight, especially the solarUV radiation on human skin are well known.Chemically, sunscreens are compounds that absorb UVlight and thereby decrease the amount of the solar


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radiation. Most sunscreen preparations on the marketare appropriate only for UV-B rays, but protection fromUV-A rays assumed increasing importance too since itis more dangerous on human skin. The electronicallyexcited sunscreen molecule can decay through differentpathways: in the form of heat, by fluorescence,phosphorescence, interaction with neighbouringmolecules, or by undergoing photoinduceddecompositions. The latter reactions decrease thesunscreen UV-protective capacity during its use.Therefore a high photostability is a pre-requisite forthe effectiveness of sunscreen products.

The photodegradation of chemical sunscreens has beenreduced by providing a protective film around thereacting molecule, by encapsulation in liposomes,microspheres and in glass beads, incorporation innanoparticles or by complexation with cyclodextrines.Such intercalation in inorganic materials as hydrotalcite(HTlc) could represent a new strategy to improvesunscreen photostability.

The advantages of sunscreen intercalation inhydrotalcites are;i. sunscreen stabilization,ii. absorption of ultraviolet lights in both the UV-A

region and the UV-B region, andiii. the absence of a close contact between skin and

filter with consequent elimination of allergyproblems.

So, this concept of the UV-protection can be carriedout for the UV-protective finishes on textiles by usingasimilar type of clay materials.

Effluent TreatmentHealth problems are caused by aluminum salts. Variousreports have mentioned the direct and indirect toxiceffects of metals in the form of tumours, cancers, andallergies. Inorder to replace aluminium salts asadsorbents and coagulants, the bentonite andcombination of bentonite have been used as coagulantsin waste water treatment.

The Chemical Oxygen Demand (COD), turbidity, TotalSuspended Solids (TSS), and major cations are themain concerns of the characteristics of wastewaters.Generally, high levels of COD results in low DissolvedOxygen (DO) in water and this can lead to mortalityof aquatic life. In addition to that, suspended solidssuch as organic and inorganic materials can result inthe water being contaminated with dirt and odour.

Developing countries pay a high price to importchemicals including polyaluminium chloride and alumfor water and waste water treatment. Butpolyaluminium chloride and alum add impurities, suchas epichlodine, which are carcinogenic in nature. Theuse of clay mineral has undoubtedly become morepopular and widely used as adsorbent and ion exchangefor water and waste water treatment applications. Clayminerals, such as bentonite and zeolite, are some ofthe potential alternatives, as they have large specificsurface areas with a net negative charge. Their sorptioncapabilities come from their high surface areas andexchange capacities. It is a highly effective naturalclay mineral, especially in granular form, used for thepurification of waste water and sludge dewatering.

The usage of natural clay minerals such as bentoniteand zeolite for water and wastewater treatment areincreasing because of their abundance, low price, andadsorption capabilities, as well as ion exchange.

Apart from that, bentonite is a natural material thatcontains essential compounds such as aluminium, ironand clay materials which are useful for the treatmentof waste water. Moreover, bentonite is cheaper thanchemicals and it fulfils the economic benefits of theoperators as well as environmental concerns.

Super AbsorbencySuperabsorbent polymers are loosely cross-linkednetworks that can absorb a large amount of water in ashort time and retain water under pressure. Althoughsuperabsorbent polymers have been abundantly usedin the disposable diaper industry for the past 30 years,their applications are still being expanded to manyfields including agriculture and horticulture, sealingcomposites, artificial snow, drilling fluid additives,medicine for drug delivery system and so on.

The preparation of polymer/clay superabsorbentcomposites have received great attention because oftheir relatively low production cost and high waterabsorbency. The water absorbency of the poly(acrylicacid)/attapulgite superabsorbent composite in distilledwater greatly improves as compared with cross-linkedpoly(acrylic acid) superabsorbent polymer, but thewater absorbing ability of superabsorbent compositein saline solutions only slightly increases. It is wellknown that the water absorbing ability ofsuperabsorbent composite in saline solutions is alsovery important for many applications. Therefore, thesynthesis of thenew superabsorbent composite which


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has high water absorbency both in distilled water andsaline solution and developing their applications stillrepresent interesting research areas.

Attapulgite, as a good substrate for superabsorbentcomposite materials, is a layered aluminium silicatewith respective -OH groups on the surface. In order toreduce costs and improve the comprehensive waterabsorbing properties of the superabsorbent materials,to graft acrylic acid and acrylamide copolymerontoattapulgite and fabricate a composite consisting ofpolymer and attapulgitemicropowder can be a priority.

Discolouration of DenimDiscolouration of Denim garment can be carried outthrough various methods including mechanical,chemical, physical and enzymatic treatments. Nano-clays can be co-applied in thebio-stone washing ofdenim with cellulase to obtain denim garment with anew look and clear effluent. Denim fabric usually hasa weave of indigo dyed warp and white weft yarns.The abrasion process in stonewashing is done withapumicestone, with or without an oxidizing agent suchas potassium permanganate. But this process results indye removal as well as fabric strength loss toanundesirable extent. The stone washing or abrasioneffect can be created on denim fabric either by usingcellulase individually or along with pumice stone.

The morphology of nano-clay is platelet with athickness of less than 1 nm and width between 100 nmand 1 micron. Due to the huge aspect ratio, nano-clayhas a very large surface area of about 700 m2/g. Thisunique morphological structure provides possibilitiesfor excellent sorption capability. Nano-claycan bemodified with organic quaternary ammonium to providethe required interaction between clay and other organicmolecules. Major contribution forces to dye sorptiononto nano-clayare van der Waals forces andhydrophobic interaction. The Ionic attraction also playsan important role to dye sorption using nano-clays.

Antimicrobial FinishMontmorillonite is the basic component of bentoniticclays. Bentonite is a clay containing not less than 70%of a mineral of montmorillonite group. Montmorilloniteis a fine-grained layered aluminum silicate carrying anextra negative charge because of nonstoichiometricreplacements of cations of thecrystal lattice, whichcompensates exchange cations located in the interlayerspace. This determines high hydrophilic properties ofbentonite. Bentonites with montmorillonite containing

mainly exchangeable sodium cations have the besttechnological properties. Elemental plates of clay arecharged negatively; counterions Na+ are necessary forstabilization of the structure.

Metal cations found in montmorillonite can be replacedwith other ions of metals through theionic exchangethat allows modifying clay by various ions andsubstances. This process is called intercalation. All clayminerals possess thecertain capacity of cation exchange.This measure is an important characteristic of a mineraland indicates the quantity of exchange cations (in mg-equivalents) capable of being replaced by cations ofanother type 100 g of clay. Montmorillonite possessesthe highest capacity of cation exchange among clayminerals (upto 150 meq/100g).

The intercalated montmorillonite is a source of metalions and metal oxides. In the case of such intercalatedmontmorillonite particles coated on textile substratesonmicrobial attack, it does not allow to grow it. Thus,this kind of modified (intercalated)montmorillonite canbe a suitable approach for antimicrobial finishes ontextiles.

Flame RetardancyNano-clay particles can play an important role intheflame retardant textile coating. The exact mechanismof the combustion inhibition caused by the nano-claysis not yet known, but it is presumed that while thepolymer matrix is burned and gasified duringcombustion, the incorporated nano-clays accumulateat the surface and form a barrier to oxygen diffusion,thereby slowing down the burning process.

Besides, these nano-clays do slow down the burningprocess and enhance the char formation, but they haveno effect on the ignition tendency and after flamingproperties. The integration of nano-claycompositesalone is not sufficient to provide a fabric with reliablecombustion protection. Recent research indicates thatoptimized properties can be achieved by combiningthe nanocomposites with low concentrations ofconventional flame retardants. For the integration ofthe described nanocomposites into textile fabrics mainlytwo process pathways are possible. For both applicationpathways, nano-clay or nanoparticle is melt blendedwith the polymer material. Before this process, thenano-clays have to be modified by replacing the(sodium-) cations found between the clay layers withother, sufficiently organophilic ions to make theintegration and dispersion of the nano-clays in thepolymer matrix.


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One possibility to incorporate these nanocompositesinto textiles is by melt spinning them into yarns whichcan subsequently be knitted or woven into textilefabrics. The second possibility is to apply the producedpolymernano-clay composite as a coating to finishedtextiles, as for example cotton or polyester fabrics.

Dyeing & PrintingClay can be used as an exhausting agent in thedyeingof textiles replacing the most commonly usedexhausting agents like salts thus helping to reduce theeffluent load.Apart from that, it is also used asthickening agents replacing sodium alginate in reactiveprinting and synthetic thickener in pigment printing.This replacement in printing yields ahighcolour valueand comparable fastness property. Also, it eliminateshigh amount of water used in removing the unfixedthickener on to the fabric ultimately saving time, energyand cost.

ConclusionClay being widely available in the earth can find asuitable material to be utilised onto the various fieldsof science and technology. It is a rich source of mineralsand ions which can be great for the scientists today tothink over it. Various aspects of the advantages ofnatural clays have been brought forward for theresearches and needs to be explored more.

Clays can be new perspective in textiles looking intoits excellent natural properties. Such phenomenalcharacteristics of flame barrier, good controlled release,bio-sorption capacity, cation exchange capacity,intercalation with metal ions, etc., offers a very goodapproach to enhance the engineering applications oftextiles. Moreover, advent of nanotechnology in claysis also having a great potential in the composite sectors.Lot has been explored and lot more needs further to beexplored in the field of clays so that it can be utilisedto a worldwide extent in the textile arena.

TEXNOTE

TAI continuing Education ProgramsFor enhancing the Skill and Knowledge of working personnel

in Textile Trade and IndustryDid you discontinue your education,during earlier stage of your career?

NO WORRY ……. TAI is at your assistance.Join our ATA or GMTA courses.

ATA is equivalent to Diploma in Textiles andGMTA is equivalent to B Tech Textiles.

The courses are distance education programs and you can take up the courses,as per your convenience tomanage both your

JOB and EDUCATION.

Hurry Up and contact us at:Chairman, PAC

The Textile Association (India)2, Dwarkanath Mansion, Near Nirmal Nursing Home,

91, Ranade Road Extension, Shivaji Park, Dadar (W),

Mumbai - 400 028 India

Tel.: +91 22 2446 1145, Fax: +91 22 2447 4971

E-mail: [email protected]


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The Textile Association (India)

TAI - M.P. Unit

UNIT ACTIVITY

TAI M.P. Unit Successfully organized14th International & 72nd All India Textile

Conference"Shape India - Shape Textile"

Once again after its enormous success in 1956, 1984,1991 & 2006, The Textile Association (India) - M.P.Unit has hosted 14th International & 72nd All IndiaTextile Conference first time in Bhopal, on "ShapeIndia - Shape Textile" on 27th& 28th January, 2017 atHotel Marriott Courtyard, Bhopal, M.P.

Dignitaries lighting the light at inaugural function

At the inaugural function Arvind Sinha,TAINationalPresident, S. Pal, Director, VardhmanGroup, Bhopal, N.S. Nirban, TAI Unit President, ChiefGuest Shri Rajendra Shukla,Hon'blecommerce Indus-try & EmploymentMinister, Govt. of M.P.,Guest ofHonor Siddharth Aggarwal, Managing Director, SagarGroup, S.K. Bhatt, Unit Head, Nahar Spinning Mills,SanjivLathia, Chairman, India ITME Society and AshokVeda, TAI Unit Secretary were on the dais.

Inaugural Function started with the National Anthemand then the lightening of the Deep by Chief Guestand dignetaries.Mr. Ashok Veda, Hon. Secretary, TAIM.P. Unit welcomed one by one all the dignitaries onthe dais with floral bouquet and Moti Mala.

Mr. S. Pal, Director, Vardhman Group, Bhopal, briefedin his welcome address about the current scenario ofTextile Industries in the Madhya Pradesh region. Hementioned that several new textile units and the Tex-tile Parks are coming up and the Ministry of Textiles

have sanctioned such projects to make the MadhyaPradesh as a Textile Hub.

Then Mr. N.S. Nirban, Unit President of TAI M.P.Unit briefed about the Unit activities and involvementof other social activities. Unit organizes Seminars,workshops, Conferences and interaction with the vari-ous organizations time to time. He mentioned that Unitis continuously enrolling the membership of unit.

Mr. Arvind Sinha, National President, TAIis addressing the audience

While inauguration celebration, Mr. Arvind Sinha,National President of the Textile Association (India),welcomed all the guests and the delegates present tograce this Conference. He highlighted about the TAIactivities and the recent Conferences organized at In-ternational standards. He briefed about the 2 WorldTextile Conferences and World Textile Congress orga-nized outside of Indian Shores at Bangkok, Thailand.He also informed about the various future activities tobe organized during next year including 2nd GlobalTextile Congress at Jakarta, Indonesia.

Mr. Awadhesh Kumar Sharma, Conference Advisor,TAI M.P. Unit delivered his Keynote Address. He high-lighted the detail program and the session wise Tech-nical papers to be presented by various eminent speak-ers.

Chief Guest of the Conference, Shri Rajendra Shukla,Hon'bleMinister for CommerceIndustry and Employ-ment, Mineral Resources and Overseas Indians, highlyappreciated and shown his pleasure for organizing suchconference for the first time at Bhopal. Shri Shuklasaid that "Madhya Pradesh has emerged as a hub ofthe Textile Industry of the country since the last onedecade due to the Industrial Friendly Textile policy ofthe State Government of M.P.

He also mentioned that the state has around One Thou-


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sand acres of landbank in all the districts of M.P. toestablish industries. A Special Policy is being broughtsoon to encourage the Garment Industry in the state.

Chief Guest Shri Rajendra Shukla, Hon'bleMinister forCommerce Industry is delivering his inaugural address

He also mentioned that the state has around One Thou-sand acres of landbank in all the districts of M.P. toestablish industries. A Special Policy is being broughtsoon to encourage the Garment Industry in the state.Further, he mentioned that Madhya Pradesh is pro-gressing rapidly and has come up in the category ofthe developed state. All the facilities like good infra-structure, roads and sufficient land is available fordevelopment.

He also said that long term planning has been made inelectricity sector keeping in account of the future re-quirements.

Every year, an increase of 1000 megawatt capacity isbeing registered in the established capacity.He alsomentioned that the State Government is working outwith full steam and commitment in the leadership ofChief Minister, Shri Shivraj Singh Chouhan for thedevelopment of Madhya Pradesh and to maintain thestatus of developed state.

Mr. Shukla informed that the KrishiKarman Awardiscontinuously awarded since last four years and 20percent growth rate is the result of the governmentefforts.There is a wide scope to put up industry asMadhya Pradesh is the biggest investment destinationof the country and Inviting industrialists to establishindustry in the State and urged them to contribute inthe progress of the State. He further mentioned that onone hand textile industries will eliminate unemploy-ment and on the other, it will be pride for the State.

Shri Shukla also mentioned that units of famous Groups

like Vardhman, Trident, Nahar, S.E.L Group, Raymondand Grasim are functioning successfully in the State.An amount of around Rs. 7 Thousand Crore has beeninvested in the textile sector and 40 thousand personshave got employment in last 6 years. Textile projectsworth Rs. 4 thousandcrore will be established in thestate soon. He told that the biggest 750 megawatt solarpower plant of the world is being established at Rewa.An amount of Rs. 6 thousand crore will be invested inthis plant. White Tiger Safari has been made inMukundpur of Rewa, he added.Hon'ble Minister ShriShukla during this international conferencehonouredand complimented the industrialists for theirremarkable contribution in the textile sector. He alsoinaugurated the exhibition focusing textile industry, ofdifferent stalls and opened for inspection to all del-egates of conference.

During the Conference the Textile Association (India)felicitated the personalities for the recognition of theirsignificant contribution to the Association and theIndustry by the hands of Chief GuestShriRajendraShukla. Dr. V.D. Gotmare has been awardedwith Hon. F.T.A., for his significant contribution inthe academic field.

Dr. V.D. Gotmare receiving the Honorary F.T.A. award byhands of Chief Guest Shri Rajendra Shukla

Mr. Ashok Veda receiving the Service Gold Medal byhands of Chief Guest


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Mr. S.C. Jain receiving Service Mementoby hands of Chief Guest

Dr. HemantSonare receiving Service Mementoby hands of Chief Guest

Office Bearers and representatives of M.P. Unit isreceiving the Award by hands of Chief Guest

Mr. Ashok Veda has been awarded with Service GoldMedal, (Instituted in memory of Hon. Maj. R.P.Poddar), for the recognition of his services to theAssociation and his extra ordinary efforts for promo-tion of textile industry in M.P.Mr. S.C. Jain has beenawarded with Service Memento, (Instituted by ShriH.A. Shah) and Dr. HemantSonare has been awardedwith Service Memento, (Instituted by Shri J.J. Randeri),for their services to the Association at Unit level. Alsothe Best Unit Award was awarded to TAI MadhyaPradesh Unit for their all-round best performance &activities done by M. P. Unit.

Chief Guest Hon'ble Minister Shri Shukla inauguratingthe Exhibition

Thereafter, Chief Guest Hon'ble Minister Shri Shuklainaugurated the Exhibition, focusing textile industryand visited the various Exhibition stall along with otherguests. He dialogued with the exhibitors. About 26Exhibitors from all over the Country were exhibitedtheir products for the benefits of participants / del-egates.

On the whole, The 14th International & 72nd All IndiaTextile Conference and Exhibition turned out agrandsuccess with over 200 participants gained much fromthe discussions and deliberations held. This was a grandevent in the history of the TAI Madhya Pradesh Unitat Bhopal.

While inaugural function, all the dignitaries on thedais were honoured and felicitated with the Mementosby hands of various dignitaries of Textile industry, oneby one. At the end of inaugural session. Mr. AshokVeda proposed the vote of thanks.

Technical Sessions on various topics related to theconference were deliberated in Six technical Sessions& Three Parallel Sessions by eminent speakers acrossthe country in two days. All the presented papers wereinformative and interested.

At the end of First day conference an entertainmentprogram of Fashion Show was presented by JD Fash-ion Institute, Indore. Students of JD Fashion Institutepresented their beautiful and attractive new creationslike Seams crazy, Sunset, Ayurvastra, Kasturi, Sanjhi.

Students of JD Fashion Institute presenting Fashion Show

UNIT ACTIVITY


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Also MsUmangShridhar of Khadi Village IndustriesCommission (KVIC) presented the fusion of primitivekhaadi and its modern day counterpart digital printingnamed as KhaDigi.It is an idea of building a non-violent economy and empowering those hands thatweave the fabric into an essence of Indian legacy andhelps in achieving economic stability. She presentedthe spring summer collection 2017 named 'Wheels ofFreedom'.SuhaniShridhar and Payal Rajput, aspiringdesigners who worked in the fashion show for Khadiand handloom fabrics.

They crafted collections by keeping 3 objectives suchas Social objective of providing employment, Economicobjective of providing saleable articles and Widerobjective of creating self-reliance among the peopleand building up of a strong rural community spirit.

The show also involved the differently abled from anNGO Arushi who walked the ramp. Donation of Rs.11,000/-each was awarded by Ashok Veda and Mrs.R.K.Vij to encourage the budding talents fromArushi.That was fantastic Fashion Show of KhadiFabrics having Digital Printing and various fabricstructures along with Fashions. 'Arushi' an organi-zation helping Handicap children, arranged this Fash-ion Show with the help of Fashion designerUmangShridhar in a very touching manner which wasmade appreciated, impressed by everyone presented.

In the concluding session S.K Bhatt, S.Pal, ArvindSinha, Praveen Dhinga, N.S.Nirban, S. Sukumar andAshok Veda participated and deliberated with questionanswers on the conference. From the audience KanannKrishnamurthy, Awadesh Sharma, R.N. Yadav, Dr.N.N.Mahapatra, R.P.Gautam and other senior dignitiesof the field raised various questions which ware an-swered by the dignitaries on dais. Finally Arvind Sinha,National President, TAI explained at length that theconference decision cannot be implemented and changethe scenario in 1 day but it can give a good directiontowards textile policy maker.

Mr. Arvind Sinha felicitating VishwasSarang, Hon'bleRevenue Minister, Govt. of Madhya Pradesh

In valedictory Session Shri VishwasSarang,Hon'bleRevenue Minister, Govt. of Madhya Pradeshwas the Chief Guest of this session. He appreciatedthe team for organizing such an informative confer-ence first time in Bhopal. He highlighted about thegovt. policies of textile industries and he assured theaudience that govt. is definitely encouraging the tex-tile industry in M.P. region. He conveyed that duringthe present govt. most of the industries from PunjabState, such as Vardhman,Nahar,Oswal, Trident,SELGroup etc. has entered in M.P. and they have flour-ished the scenario of textile and with their help nowM.P. is one of the largest hub of textile.

He said, VardhmanFabrics is the largest composite unitin Budhni, Trident is one of the largest Terry Towelunit in the M.P. and also OswalDenim is largest denimplant nearest to Bhopal. These units are giving morethan 50,000 employment directly and indirectly. Mr.Ashok Veda Assured that TAIMP will encourage andlaunch a program for Make in M.P.

During Valedictory Session, Chief Guest ShriVishwasSarangdelivered effective speech in favor ofTextile Industriesof Madhya Pradesh. He also commit-ted to provide help, whatever is needed for TextileIndustry in Madhya Pradesh.

At the end Mr. Ashok Veda proposed the vote of thanks.He thanked and honouredChief Gust of function Mr.A. Sukumar, NTC, Chief Manger, Mr. N.M.Jain, Mr.R.K.Vij of Indorama and alsothanked and honoured toMr. S. Pal, Vardhman Group, Bhopal, all exhibitorslike Rieter, LCC, Autotex, India ITME, SKF,Moserbaer, NTC, AEON, Raymond, PratibhaSyntex,Veda Group, KVIC, YolexInfra, Geratex, ShanthiGears,Inarco, Blow Tech, Premier Color Scan, Igmatex andTrutzschler etc. Mr. Ashok Veda also thanked all TAIteam specially Awadesh Sharma, R.P.Gautam, AnkitVeda, Staff of Veda Group and Staff of Nahar,Vardhman, who helped to make the event successful.

The program was followed by music and dinner withfamilies.

UNIT ACTIVITY

Texttreasure

The aim of education is to manifest in our livesthe perfection, which is the very nature of ourinner self

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Nan Yang is a leadingtextile group in Thailandand one of the largestvertically integrated ap-parel companies in Asia.The company is engagedin manufacturing andmarketing readymadeknitted garments, knittedfabrics and cotton yarn.The garment divisionhas modern machines toensure the bulk produc-tion of T-shirts, poloshirts, night shirts,

pyjamas, leggings, shorts, sportswear and two piecesets, etc. made of cotton and cotton blends with elastaneor viscose. They produce yarn-dyed stripes and prints.The clientele is among others Nike, Uniqlo, Lotus,Under Armour and Adidas.

Nan Yang produce 20,000 MT of yarn per year. Their425 circular knitting machines produce 20,000 MT offabrics and the garmenting facilities in Thailand &Laos produce 31 million pieces of readymade knittedapparel each year. The company sets up a new gar-ment unit in Vietnam with a capacity to produce 18million pieces per year which will start operations in2017.

The company has installed sophisticated machinery

BRÜCKNER Power-Frame stenter forNan Yang Textile Group, Thailand

imported from Germany, Japan, US, Italy, Taiwan,Switzerland and many other European countries toensure a fast and efficient production, reduction ofcosts, optimum equipment utilization and reducedmanpower.

Nan Yang Textile Company Ltd. ordered aBRÜCKNER stenter for their heat-setting operations.The high drying performance in combination with avery homogeneous air flow and temperature distribu-tion because of the alternatingly arranged thermo zonesand the proven split-flow design with separately ad-justable upper and lower air were some of the featuresthat convinced the customer. Reproducible finishingresults and the robust design ensuring a long servicelife of the machines are further strong advantages ofthe BRÜCKNER stenter.

The BRÜCKNER group with head office and produc-tion site located in Germany is worldwide known astechnologically leading producer of high-tech lines forthe dry finishing of knitted and woven fabrics as wellas of technical textiles, nonwovens and floor cover-ings. As a family-owned machinery producer withnearly 70 years of tradition and experienceBRÜCKNER stands for reliability, continuity and apersonal relationship with their customers. All devel-opment engineers are working already today for theinnovations of tomorrow and this gives their custom-ers a considerable advantage in competition.

Rieter is the leading supplierof equipment's for spinningmills processing short staplefibers and provide the com-plete program of machinery,spare parts and components.Rieter aims to generate cus-tomer benefits through systemexpertise, innovative solutions

and value added customer services.

Mr. PrasantaDeka has been taken the position of HeadMarkets India for Rieter Group effective from 1st

Mr. Prasanta Deka is nowHead Markets India for Rieter Group

January, 2017 to represent and orchestrate the workingof their three business groups in India:

- Machines and Systems (RMS)- After Sales Services (RAS)- Components (RCO)

Mr. PrasantaDeka will focus on strengthening rela-tionships with customers, key stakeholders and repre-sent Rieter in India.

Hope he will build a strong and successful relation-ship with all.

Mr. Ben, CEO,Nan Yang Textile

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India's biggest digital inkjet printer manufacturerColorJet India Ltd, a division of ColorJet Group hasbeen acknowledged as 'India's Largest Manufacturerof Wide Format Digital Printer' at the annual 6th Im-aging Solution Awards Night held in New Delhi onJanuary 13, 2017, for which it won an award, insti-tuted by Imaging Solution magazine.The event at whichover 45 awards were given away in various imagingindustry categories was attended by over 400 top im-aging industry professionals who included manufac-turers, importers, exporters, distributors, resellers, etc.from different parts of India and also from China.

ColorJet India now offers the latest and several digitalprintersfor various segments like Textile printers,Signage printers, Eco Solvent printers and UV print-ers. The company also offers a varied range of digitalprinting inks including Textile inks, Solvent inks, EcoSolvent inks, Dye Sublimation inks and UV Curableinks.

The ColorJet textile digital printer range includes thebestselling Metro and Vastrajet textile printers. TheFabjet Duo, Fabjet Grand and Aurajet Series II, makeup for the rest of the ColorJet textile digital printersline-up.

ColorJet is globally reputed for its deep commitmentto technological innovation, strong outreach, service

ColorJet Wins 'India's Largest Manufacturerfor Wide Format Digital Printer' Award

infrastructure and complete customer focus, and oper-ates two manufacturing facilities of which one is inIndia and the other in China. This helps the companyto offer faster deliveries of digital printer spares to itscustomers.ColorJet India markets its products in 14 countriesworldwide and has sales offices spread across sevencountries. To-date, ColorJet has installed over 4,000of its printing solutions across 315 cities around theworld backed by an over 280 strong member team, ofwhich almost 100 are in technical related functions.

"We feel honoured on winning the award for beingnamed 'India's Largest Manufacturer for Wide FormatDigital Printer'. We dedicate this award to the largenumber of Indian digital printing fabric manufactur-ers, who reposed faith in ColorJet digital printers, dueto whom we bagged the award," Smarth Bansal atColorjet India said.

"At the same time, winning the award also increasesour responsibility towards our current and future cus-tomers, as we will need to continue to offer the same'Gold' standard of after sales service, for which Colorjetis recognised in India and the world," he added.

PR Contacts:Smarth BansalBrand ManagerColorJet India LtdNoida, IndiaCell: +91 98102-39602Email: [email protected]

Arun RaoFounderTaurus CommunicationsAhmedabad, IndiaCell: +91 98250-38518 / 91575-07938Email: [email protected]

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Estimates and outlook for global yarn and fabricoutput signal unchanged development for Q4/2016and a decline for Q1/2017.

The global yarn production increased in Q3/2016 quar-ter-on-quarter. Thereby, output in Asia and SouthAmerica rose. In Europe and the USA the yarn pro-duction fell. On an annual basis, the global yarn pro-duction in Q3/2016 increased versus Q3/2015. Globalyarn stocks climbed in Q3/2016 quarter-on-quarter. Yarnstocks were reduced in South America. In Asia, theyincreased. Year-on-year, global yarn stocks declined.Yarn orders in Europe and in South America fell quar-ter-on-quarter. Compared to the same quarter a yearago, yarn orders increased in South America and fellin Europe.

Global fabric production increased in Q3/2016 againstQ2/2016 due to increases in Asia and South America.In contrast, Europe's fabric production decreased. Glo-bal fabric output improved moderately year-on-year inQ3/2016. Thereby, Asian and South American outputclimbed moderately, while it fell in Europe. In Q3/2016, worldwide fabric stocks fell quarter-on-quarter.Fabric inventories were reduced in South America andincreased moderately in Asia and North America. Year-on-year, fabric stocks declined. European and SouthAmerican fabric orders decreased quarter-on-quarter.On a yearly basis South America's fabric orders in-creased and Europe's fell.

Estimates indicate an unchanged global yarn andfabric production for Q4/2016.

The globaloutlook for yarn and fabric production sig-nals a decline for Q1/2017.In Q3/2016, global yarn production increased by 3.4%quarter-on-quarter. Thereby, Asian yarn output strength-

Global yarn and fabric output up in Q3/2016ened by 3.7% quarter-on-quarter and by 2.6% in SouthAmerica. In Europe and North America it fell by 13.3%and 1.4%, respectively. Global yarn output increasedby 3.7% in Q3/2016 versus Q3/2015. In Asia yarnoutput improved by 3.5% year-on-year and in SouthAmerica by 21%. In Europe and North America yarnoutput declined by nearly 4% year-on-year and by 7.8%,respectively.

Global fabric production increased by over 3% in Q3/2016 against the previous quarter. While Asian andSouth American output grew by over 4% each, Euro-pean fabric production fell by nearly 15% quarter-on-quarter. Year-on-year, global fabric output improvedmoderately by 0.6% in Q3/2016. Thereby, Asian pro-duction increased by 0.6% and South America's outputimproved by 4.7%. Europe's fabric output fell by nearly7% year-on-year.

Global yarn inventories increased in Q3/2016 by 4.8%quarter-on-quarter with increases of 5.7% in Asia. Incontrast, in South America inventories fell by 1.4%.In Q3/2016, the annual percentage change of globalyarn inventories recorded a decrease of nearly 6%.Thereby, European yarn stocks increased by 5% year-on-year. Asian yarn stocks, however, fell by nearly 7%annually and South American stocks diminished by0.6%.

Worldwide fabric stocks fell by 1.4% quarter-on-quar-ter in Q3/2016. The major culprit was South America,where stocks were reduced by nearly 8%. In the Asiaand North America fabric stocks were increased mod-erately. On a yearly basis, global fabric inventories inQ3/2016 decreased by 5%. Asia's fabric stocks de-creased by 0.4% annually and South America's inven-tories fell by over 16%. In Europe stocks declined byover 2%, while in North America they increased by0.8% year-on-year.

In Q3/2016, European yarn orders fell by 5% quarter-on-quarter and by 2% year-on-year. In South Americathey fell by over 11% quarter-on-quarter and increasedby over 100% year-on-year. European fabric orders inQ3/2016 fell by nearly 10% quarter-on-quarter and by11.5% year-on-year. South American fabric orders inQ3/2016 fell by 3% quarter-on-quarter and increasedby 10% year-on-year.

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◆ Order intake grows by 13% thanks to a good firsthalf year

◆ Sales of CHF 945 million following a strongersecond half year ? full year below previous yearas expected

◆ EBIT margin of 6% and net profit of 4.5% ofsales expected for 2016

◆ Reorganization of the Ingolstadt site◆ Change in the Group Executive Committee

The Rieter Group achieved an order intake of CHF905.2 million in the 2016 financialyear. This repre-sents an increase of 13% compared to the previousyear (CHF +103.6million). Sales amounted to CHF945.0 million (2015: CHF 1 036.8 million) and asexpected were 9% down on the previous year. Thedevelopment in order intake was heavily influencedby the Business Group Machines & Systems. Thebusiness groups Components and After Sales increasedtheir sales compared to the previous year. At thelngolstadt site, Rieter intends to focus in the future onthe development of machines and the provision oftechnical support for the after-sales business. The fullannual financial statements and the Annual Report willbe published by Rieter on March 14, 2017.

Market environment and order intakeThe market environment in financial year 2016 wascharacterized by strong demand in the first half year(CHF 510.7 million) and by mixed dynamics in theindividual countries and product categories in the sec-ond half year (CHF 394.5 million). The lower demandin the second half of the year, especially in the Busi-ness Group Machines & Systems, was attributable toincreasing political uncertainties in the main marketsof Turkey and India. Thanks to the strong global pres-ence and the broad and technologically advanced prod-uct range, Rieter achieved orders amounting to CHF905.2 million in the full financial year 2016.

Rieter - Financial year 2016

This positive development was mainly driven by theBusiness Group Machines &Systems. In the new ma-chine business, order intake rose by 29% to CHF 591.6million (2015: CHF 457.6 million). The business groupachieved pleasing growth in India thanks to majororders for the compact system K 42. In China, despitea slight upturn in the second half of the year, the valueof orders received was less than the previous year. Inthe other Asian countries, especially thanks toUzbekistan, Pakistan and Bangladesh, Machines &Systems realized slightly higher orders. In Turkey,Machines & Systems achieved a markedly higher or-der volume due to the good demand in the first halfyear. Orders from the Americas declined year-on-year.Demand for rotor spinning systems fell sharply.

In the year under review, the Business Group afterSales increased its orders by 7% to CHF 135.2 million(2015: CHF 126.3 million). After Sales achieved thisthrough increased orders for spare parts and services,and a larger order volume for installations in the newmachine segment. In geographical terms, growth wasbroadbased. The business group achieved particularlydynamic growth in Turkey and India. However, in theAmerican markets, which are significant for After Sales,the business group recorded a slight decline in ordersdue to the lower utilization of regional spinning mills

In the Business Group Components, order intake fellby 18% to CHF 178.4 million, compared to the excep-tionally strong previous year (2015: CHF 217.7 mil-lion). The order intake in the American countries de-veloped positively thanks to a large order in Mexico.In the other Asian countries, order intake was slightlybelow the previous year. By contrast, compared to theparticularly dynamic financial year 2015, customers inChina and India showed restraint in the awarding ofmajor contracts.

Order intake by business group

CHF million (unaudited) 2016 2015 Difference Difference Differencecurrency in local Without divestment

Order intake 905.2 801.6 13% 14% 16%

Machines & Systems 591.6 457.6 29% 31% 36%

After Sales 135.2 126.3 7% 7% 7%

Components 178.4 217.7 -18% -19% -19%

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At the end of 2016, Rieter's order backlog amountedto around CHF 440 million (December 31, 2015:around CHF 470 million).

Sales by business groupRieter's sales amounted to CHF 945.0 million in 2016(2015: CHF 1 036.8 million), which represents a de-cline of 9% compared to the previous year. This devel-opment is mainly attributable to the subdued course ofbusiness at Machines & Systems in the first half of theyear, while the business groups After Sales and Com-ponents showed a slight increase compared to 2015.

previous year. In Europe, sales decreased to CHF 40.9million (2015: CHF 60.2 million) due to the disposalof the Schaltag group in July 2015.

Reorganization of the Ingolstadt site, GermanyAt the lngolstadt site, Rieter intends to focus on thedevelopment of machines and the provision of techni-cal support for the after-sales business. Productionsshall be transferred to Rieter's Usti site in the CzechRepublic. By this means, Rieter intends to increase itscompetitiveness and conclude the reorganization of



Sales 945.0 1036.8 -9% -9% -7%

Machines & Systems 603.4 702.3 -14% -13% -11%

After Sales 141.6 139.8 1% 1% 1%

Components 200.0 194.7 3% 1% 1%

Sales by regionBoth in China and India, Rieter significantly increasedsales in the year under review, by 33% to CHF 186.5million and by 28% to CHF 182.1 million, respec-tively. In the other Asian countries, sales declined by12%, but remained at a good level of CHF 286.3million. In North and South America, following thecompletion of deliveries of large orders in the previ-ous year, sales declined to CHF 86.6 million. In Tur-key, a large portion of the good order intake from thefirst half year was delivered on schedule by the end ofthe year. Despite this, sales in Turkey fell to CHF119.4 million, a reduction of 17% compared to the



Sales 945.0 1036.8 -9% -9% -7%

Europe 40.9 60.2 -32% -33% -5%

Asian Countries 1 286.3 323.8 -12% -11% -11%

China 186.5 139.8 33% 35% 35%

India 182.1 142.0 28% 29% 29%

Turkey 119.4 143.7 -17% -17% -17%

Americas 86.6 200.6 -57% -57% -57%

Africa 43.2 26.7 62% 62% 62%

¹ Not including China, India, Turkey

production, which is a consequence of the capacitybuild-up in China and India.

Spare parts logistics shall be awarded to a serviceprovider within the framework of a European solution.With this step, Rieter aims to achieve a significantreduction in delivery times and create the conditionsfor further growth. Order processing for spare partsshall be concentrated at the Winterthur site.

The development of machines and technical supportfor the after-sales business, which remain in Ingolstadt,are to be housed in a new building, which will provide

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optimal support for the development work and coop-eration between the two areas.

The concept envisages the reduction of around 220jobs at the Ingolstadt site. At the end of December2016, Rieter had 360 employees in Ingolstadt.

Once the measures are complete at all affected sites, acost reduction of CHF 15-20 million is expected from2019. Rieter anticipates that one-off expenditure inthemiddouble-digit million range will be required forimplementation purposes over the next two years.

The consultation process with the employees' repre-sentatives will begin shortly. Rieter will provide infor-mation about the outcome at the appropriate time.

Profit outlook for 2016For the year as a whole, Rieter expects an EBIT mar-gin of 6% and a net profit of 4.5% of sale.

Serge Entleitner takes over as Head of the BusinessGroup Components on April 6, 2017The Board of Directors of Rieter Holding AG hasappointed Serge Entleitner to the Group ExecutiveCommittee of the Rieter Group with effect from April6, 2017. Serge Entleitner takes over the managementof the Business Group Components from WernerStrasser, who, at his own request, takes well-deservedretirement on April 30, 2017. He will resign as amember of the Group Executive Committee with ef-fect from April 6, 2017.

After obtaining an MBA degree from the University ofInnsbruck, Serge Entleitner started his professionalcareer at SaurerSticksysteme AG. Most recently, hewas responsible for the Business Area Consumer Foodsat Bühler AG. He has broad experience in the success-ful development and management of international capi-tal goods business.

Werner Strasser began his career at Rieter in 1994. Heheaded the Business Group Components since 2002and has been a member of the Group Executive Com-

mittee since 2011. The Board of Directors would liketo thank Werner Strasser for his extraordinary contri-bution to the development of the components businessand the Rieter Group and wishes him all the best forthe future.

Annual General Meeting of April 5, 2017The 2017 Annual General Meeting of Rieter HoldingLtd. will take place on April 5 at the Eulach-Hallen inWinterthur, Switzerland. Any proposals regarding theagenda are to be submitted in writing to Rieter Hold-ing Ltd., Office of the Company Secretary,Klosterstrasse 32, CH-8406 Winterthur, Switzerlandby February 22, 2017 at the latest, accompanied byinformation concerning the relevant motions and evi-dence of the necessary shareholdings (with a par valueof CHF 0.5 million as stipulated by Article 699 of theSwiss Code of Obligations and §9 of the Articles ofAssociation).

Presentation materialThe full presentation material and the media releasecan be found at:http://www.rieter.com/en/rieter/media/press-releases/.

You can also register for our media release e-maildispatch service at:http://www.rieter.com/en/subscription/

Forthcoming dates◆ Results press conference 2017: March 14, 2017◆ Annual General Meeting 2017: April 5, 2017◆ Semi-annual report for 2017: July 20, 2017

Investor RelationsJoris GröflinChief Financial OfficerT +41 52 208 70 15F +41 52 208 70 [email protected] RelationsRelindis Wieser

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JTA : An effective marketing tool forstrengthening business promotion


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Q-Package on K 46 compact spinning machine

The production of best yarn quality at lowest manu-facturing costs is the constant challenge of every spin-ner. With the Q-Package, Rieter developed a solutionthat allows all ring and compact spinners to eitherimprove the yarn quality or simplify the choice offibres. The yarn quality can thereby be improved incertain parameters by up to 30 %.

Rieter's ring and compact spinning machines with theirunique spinning geometry are known as standards forproductivity at lowest yarn manufacturing costs.

The latest models G 36 and K 46 are now availablewith up to 1?824 spindles and are always equippedwith the suction system ECOrized for lowest energyconsumption. The latest components in the draftingsystem called Q-Package were presented for the firsttime at the ITMA 2015 in Milan for both machines.

Consistent quality has always set standardsThe Ri-Q-Draft drafting system, tried and tested amillion times, with the low-wear suction drum includ-ing the air guide element "Detect" for the compactspinning machine and the "Best-in-Class" componentsfrom Bracker and Novibra, allow highest productivitywithout compromising the quality. Here, the long-termconsistency of Rieter machines is worth special men-tion. Ri-Q-Draft has always been a key to achievingthe best running properties.

The New Q-Package for Best Yarn Quality

Superior yarn characteristics

The ACP cradle is equipped with a special pin thatimproves the fibre guidance particularly with short fibres,

and consequently raises the yarn quality

The Q-Package is the combination of a newly devel-oped nose bar with the ACP cradleinstead of the famil-iar Ri-Q-Bridge and the standard cradle. This allowsadjusted fibre guidance and can in many cases beoptimised by insertion of a drop-shaped pin. This ver-sion is integrated in the latest machine configurationand alongside the standard system, which is still avail-able, can be selected at the customer's request. Here,the unique spinning geometry and all other provencomponents remain unchanged.

Both machines, G 36 and K 46, that were equipped inthe field with the Q-Package, showed a reduction ofimperfections as well as Classimat faults of up to 30% without influencing the yarn tenacity or the hairi-ness in the process. Additionally, clear advantages withthe K 46 in downstream processing through fewer warpthread breaks could be evidenced.

More advantages at high short fibre ratioThe advantages with the yarn characteristics are clearlyfar more distinctive with a raw material that has a highshort fibre ratio, as due to the pin the short fibres aresignificantly better guided than previously. Thus thechoice of fibre is simplified. A raw material with aslightly higher short fibre content can achieve compa-

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rable yarn values. Also yarns of count Ne 30 and finershowed a reduction of at least 10 % with the imperfec-tions and Classimat faults. In the best case, qualityimprovements of 20 to 30 % are possible. The Q-Package offers a wide field of possibilities to selectthe settings according to the requirements of the yarnbuyer.

The best solutions on one machineAlongside the economical production of best qualityyarns, the G 36 and K 46 machines impress with theirsimple operation. The greatest possible number ofsettings can be adjusted and controlled direct on themachine panel.

The following functions make the machines uniquein their application:◆ draft change in a matter of seconds with

FLEXIdraft◆ cop change without underwinding with

SERVOgrip

◆ reliable doffing with ROBOdoff◆ partial spinning startup of the machine with

FLEXIstart◆ Electrically-driven cop transport SERVOdisc.

The production of specialities such as twin yarns andfancy or core yarn is also easily possible on bothmachines.

The advantages are completed by the extraordinarytechnical competence drawn from over two hundredyears, which allowed Rieter to become the innovationleader. That is an obligation for new and further devel-opments, where the added value for the customers isalways at the forefront.

Author:Vijaykumar MoreProduct Manager Ring / Compact [email protected]

"Faster, better, safer" - this slight variation on theOlympic motto is how Kang Zhongming, Chair-man and General Manager of Xianyang TextilesGroup Co., Ltd., describes the properties of theZinserRing 71. Since 2013, 96 ring spinning ma-chines from the textile machinery manufacturerZinser, featuring a total of more than 136,000spindles, have been in use at the state-run Chinesetextile company in conjunction with the Autoconerpackage winding machine from Schlafhorst. Thenew ring spinning system has far exceeded the ex-pectations of the company, with Xianyang Textilesissuing a positive appraisal following almost fiveyears of operation.

ZinserRing 71 delightsXianyang Textiles Group Co., Ltd.

Xianyang Textiles Group Co., Ltd. has been devel-oped from a company that was originally founded backin 1952. The textile company relocated to XianyangEmerging Textile Industrial Park in 2012, subsequentlyoperating under the name Xianyang Textiles Group.The industrial park is an important textile productioncentre along the new Chinese Silk Road. With around5,000 employees and a production capacity of 400,000spindles, Xianyang Textiles is one of the largest textilecompany in north-west China and boasts an annualproduction of50,000 tons of yarn.

The company processes cotton, manmade fibres andtheir blends to create high-grade yarns in the qualityranges between Ne 21 and Ne 120. Xianyang Textilesoperates its own weaving mills and dye shops, therebycovering a broad scope of the textile net product chain.The yarns are used in the areas of clothing, householdtextiles and technical textiles. Part of the production isexported to over 50 countries, with a particular focuson Europe, North America, Japan, Korea, South-EastAsia and Africa.

Yarn production at Xianyang Textiles is subject to strictquality assurance that is certified according to ISO9001. The careful handling of natural resources is a

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key concern of the company, which is why it pursuesan environmental management system certified accord-ing to ISO 14001.

Stable precision technology reduces spinning costs

Upon commissioning the cutting-edge ring spinningmachines from Zinser, Xianyang Textiles expected toachieve a significant reduction in spinning costs. Thisexpectation was indeed met by the ZinserRing 71, withthe reliable high-level technology continuously pro-ducing top-quality yarn and achieving a noticeableincrease in profitability.

As well as providing particularly high levels of perfor-mance, it also ensures maximum efficiency thanks tothe precision of the assemblies.

The ZinserRing 71 enabled Xianyang Textiles to recorda palpable drop in power consumption. With its en-ergy-saving tangential belt drive, its precision-mountedhigh-speed spindles featuring a low power requirementand its energy-efficient motors, the economicalZinserRing 71 produces more yarn using less electric-ity.

The stable and reliable design of the ZinserRing 71enabled Xianyang Textiles to increase the spinningspeeds without the risk of yarn breaks. The integratedOptiStep software ensures that the start, coast-downand operational spinning speeds are optimally attunedto the technological spinning limit and enables thebobbin build to spin at the absolute maximum speed inevery phase.

Consistent quality via mechanical weighting armsThe drafting system of the ZinserRing 71 featuresmechanical weighting arms that guarantee consistentpressure at all spinning positions. This reliability leadsto yarn values that are consistent at all times, enablingXianyang Textiles to achieve top quality with maxi-

mum process reliability and significantly reducedmaintenance input.

CoWeMat - the doffer featuring unrivalled processreliabilityThe CoWeMat is and remains the leading technologyfor doffing automation.With its renowned process reliability and dependableoperation, the CoWeMat reduces personnel costs andincreases efficiency. Fast, reliable automatic bobbinchanging on the ZinserRing 71 by the CoWeMat makesit possible to utilise the production capacity to opti-mum effect, as it performs the work arising at inter-vals without the need for staff. "In contrast to ourprevious installations, there are no bottlenecks, wait-ing times or downtimes", says Yang Renhong, Head ofSpinning Department at Xianyang Textiles. "This en-sures the highly efficient operation of the ring spin-ning system at all times. In addition, the CoWeMat hasreduced the maintenance input during the doffing pro-cess to a minimum, providing a level of reliability thathas enabled us to reduce our personnel costs."

Personnel enthused by easy operationAlongside the hard factors such as productivity, effi-ciency and quality, the satisfaction of the operatingpersonnel is another important criterion in the assess-ment of a textile machine. Can the operating personnelfulfil the high quality and productivity requirements ofthe spinning plant management using simple means,or is it frequently necessary to perform complex manualinterventions? How difficult is it for the operatingpersonnel to produce a consistent level of quality overan extended period or to reproduce a desired quality atany time? In this regard, the ZinserRing 71 has onceagain exceeded the expectations of Xianyang Textiles.The operators are delighted with the straightforwardmachine operation, all spinning parameters and lot datacan be input centrally on the EasySpin control panel.The simple operating concept and the easy to under-stand input assistants speed up operation and preventsetting errors.

Safe processing of cotton, synthetic staple fibres andtheir blendsWhether the ZinserRing 71 is required to handle syn-thetic staple fibres and their blends or natural fibresmade from cotton, it ensures that processing is consis-tently safe, reliable and productive.

"The markets are constantly changing", says ManagerYang. "There are fluctuations in the availability of rawmaterials and in the level of demand for the various

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yarns. The ZinserRing 71 puts us in a position wherewe can ideally meet changing market requirements, aswe want to continue to grow regardless of fluctuationsin the market."

Partnership with the automation supplierFrom the perspective of Xianyang Textiles, theZinserRing 71 is the perfect solution for the latestrequirements in the Asian textile industry. Due to theincreasingly difficult issue of workforce availability,spinning mills must make themselves less and lessreliant on personnel. Delivery of any desired yarn at aguaranteed quality and at an unrivalled price-perfor-mance ratio is what companies want from their mod-ern machinery.Zinser acts as a powerful partner at theside of Xianyang Textiles, additionally offering inte-grated automation solutions from roving frames and

ring spinning machines through to winding machines.Featuring reliable high-level technology, the ZinserRing71 can be integrated into a fully automated productionsystem at any time, achieving maximum profitabilityand ensuring dynamic growth.

Media contactBirgit JansenExpert Communication Ring SpinningSchlafhorstZweigniederlassung derSaurer Germany GmbH & Co. KG, Carlstrasse 6052531 Übach-Palenberg, GermanyT + 49 2451 905 [email protected]

COTTONGURUTM was invited as an expert Speakerin this Conference and also COTTONGURUTM Me-dia was the official Media Partner for the Conference.

The Global Cotton Summit was organised byBangladesh Cotton Association (BCA) with the sup-port of Bangladesh Textile Mills Association (BTMA)during 27th-28th January, 2017 at Dhaka, Bangladesh.The Summit showcased the rise of Bangladesh as aleading RMG manufacturer and exporter and world'stopmost cotton importer country. More than 300 del-egates from over 10 countries attended the Summit

Global Cotton Summit, Dhaka, Bangladeshand there were many interesting presentations and paneldiscussions from World's leading speakers.

In his presentation on "Supply Chain Management (Keyto making profits in Cotton Spinning)", COTTONGURUTM highlighted the significance of a strongsupply chain and gave a roadmap for Spinners so as tomake Cotton sourcing (purchasing) a Stress-Free ex-perience. The presentation also included report aboutthe global and Indian cotton market trends and hugepossibility of bilateral trade between India andBangladesh.

Currently Bangladesh is largest cotton importing coun-try and 2nd largest Garment producing and exportingcountry in the world.Bangladesh total exports: 34 billion USDBangladesh Textile exports: 28 billion USDTarget for Textile exports by 2021: 50 billion USD.

About 85% of foreign exchange earnings are gener-ated by the Textile Industry.

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We offer banner advertising and advertising/editorial opportunities to companies operating in textile

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Contact: [email protected] +91 9819801922


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Organised in association with The Cancer PatientsAid Association, the show aimed at raising funds forcancer patients.

Fevicol, Asia's largest selling adhesives brand fromthe house of Pidilite, hosted its 12th annual 'Caringwith Style' fashion show in association with the Can-cer Patients Aid Association (CPAA) on Sunday, 26thFebruary, 2017 at the NSCI Club in Mumbai.

As part of Fevicol's flagship campaign #JudengeLadenge Jeetenge, a rallying cry for cancer patientsurging people to join together and fight the disease,the fashion show was a joint initiative organised withthe CPAA.

Fevicol has been associated with the CPAA and pro-vided assistance and support to the organisation forover twelve years.

Funds raised from the show will be donated to theCancer Patients Aid Association (CPAA) towards treat-ment of children suffering from blood cancer. Leadingfashion designers Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla markedtheir debut at 'Caring with Style' this year, showcasingexquisite collections, while ace fashion designer ShainaNC presented her latest designs.The show was hostedby renowned celebrity RitwikDhanjani who engagedthe audience with his charm and witty one liners. Theshow was supported by ASK group, Club Mahindra,Forever Mark, and State Bank of India.

Cancer Patients Aid Association FounderChairmanY. K. Sapru said, "No patients should suf-

Fevicol presents 12th Edition of'Caring with Style' Fashion Show

fer or be deprived of a chance of receiving treatmentdue to lack of resources. Cancer incidence is on therise and cancer treatment in India is extremely expen-sive. Patients of modest means and the underprivi-leged cannot afford treatment. We at CPAA aid needycancer patients and give them access to treatment.Cancer is a dreadful disease but the will to live andthe support of family and friends brings strength andcourage to fight back. We have the power but requirethe funds, so let's work together toward this noblecause."

Shaina NC said, "Caring with Style' is a unique ini-tiative that reflects the spirit of uniting and fightingthis deadly disease. I have been associated with thisevent for several years and it is extremely satisfying tosee that our efforts at raising cancer awareness andfunding for treatment are having an impact. It's anhonour to partner with Pidilite and the CPAA as theyfight to make a difference in the lives of countlesschildren suffering from cancer and I feel really proudto be doing my bit."

Abu Jani& Sandeep Khosla, said, "We have beenblessed with so much and consider it an absolute privi-lege to be able to give back by putting our creativityto the most beautiful of all uses - the empowerment ofothers, especially in their Right to Health. Partneringwith CPAA and Pidilite at 'Caring with Style' is ourendeavour to put our work and our creativity intosending out a vitally important message of solidarityand support. It is our effort to open dialogue to createawareness and thus spur action and therefore empow-erment via fundraising. Glamour and gravitas go handin hand as we work towards effecting change."

Mr. AsitKoticha, Chairman ASK Group, congratu-lated CPAA on its 12th anniversary and said, "ASKGroup is proud to be associated with CPAA in thisnoble cause. ASK strongly believes that a healthy anddisease free new generation is the biggest asset inbuilding our nation's legacy."

NSCI Managing Committee states, We have beenassociated with Cancer Patients Aid Association since2014 and it has been a privilege to support the CPAAand its great cause. We look forward to harnessing

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innovative efforts like 'Caring with Style' which is afar-reaching initiative that creates awareness about acrucial issue and raises funds for needy cancer pa-tients."

Sachin Jain, President, Forevermark India said, "Itis our absolute honour to be a part of this glamorousevent this evening and support the good work CPAAis doing across the country. Forevermark, the diamondbrand from The De Beers Group of Companies,

The 2nd edition of ITMACH India is scheduled from7-10 December 2017 at India's most modern exhibi-tion venue - The Helipad Exhibition Centre,Gandhinagar, Ahmedabad, India. In its second edition,the show has grown to a much larger format covering40,000 square meters of exhibition space at the pictur-esque venue.

The show is expected to host over 750 exhibitors fromaround the world displaying most modern textile ma-chinery and technology to over 45,000 business visi-tors in a four-day extravaganza.

ITMACH India would host entire ranges of textilemachinery and technology in specific halls from Spin-ning, Weaving, Knitting, Dyeing, Printing, Processing,Digital printing, Nonwoven and technical textiles,Garmenting, Quality control and Utility machineryand so on. Already, several well-known machinerycompanies have confirmed their participation inITMACH India and Stall Booking is now open to allpotential exhibitors. The exhibition is jointly organizedby K And D ITMACH Expositions LLP and SpinnersAssociation (Gujarat).

Textile Sector: Booming Investment in Technologyand Capacity BuildingIndian textile industry's growing need of textile ma-

ITMACH India - International Textile Machinery& Accessories Exhibition Returns To Ahmedabad, India

strongly believes in supporting local communitiesworldwide. Integrity and the passion to give back tothe society lies at our core. Forevermark Diamondsare beautiful, rare, responsibly sourced and only 1%of the world's diamonds are worthy to become aForevermark. Each one of these diamonds embodiesour values of integrity, opportunity and environmentalstewardship. This line of thought makes our associa-tion with CPAA, a perfect synergy and we hope tocontinue our support in the future."

chinery and technology backed by continued invest-ment and modernization of production capacities isexpected to grow in the next 3 years. The prime driv-ers of the upbeat investment mood are Government'senhanced allocation of funds towards technology up-gradation subsidy schemes, infrastructure buildingapproach, export incentives and more importantly thefastest growing economy of the country. Adding tothat are the lucrative state Government Textile Poli-cies which are wooing investors to create employmentand additional revenue sources. The state of Gujarat isleading the investment in textile sector for past fewyears. With investment worth US$ 1.2 billion an-nounced by a couple of large textile players at therecently concluded Vibrant Gujarat Business Summit,the total investment plans in textile sector could easilyexceed US$ 10 billion!

Exhibition DetailsITMACH India 20172nd International Textile Machinery and AccessoriesExhibitionVenue: The Helipad Exhibition Centre, Gandhinagar,Ahmedabad, IndiaShow Dates: 7, 8, 9 and 10 December 2017No of Halls: 5Expected Exhibitors: 750+Expected Visitors: 45000+

Concurrent ShowIndian Textile Sourcing ExhibitionITSE would cover entire textile value chain with theaim to promote sourcing of made in India Textiles andApparels

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Oerlikon Neumag presents Innovations at the In-dex 2017 in Geneva, Switzerland

At this year's Index - taking place in Geneva be-tween April 4 and 7 - Oerlikon Neumag will beshowcasing a broad technology portfolio targetedat the efficient manufacturing of nonwovens. At itstrade fair stand 2314 the Oerlikon Neumag expertswill be showcasing process solutions for industrialapplications such as filtration, roofing, geotextilesand automotive as well as medical and hygieneapplications.

Focus on reducing costs

Oerlikon Neumag's multifunctional forming table formeltblown systems with a considerably reduced footprintand a shortened wire length that reduce maintenance costsThe trend in the technical applications sector - particu-larly within the construction industry - is towards uti-lizing spunbond in place of the staple fiber or glassfiber products deployed to date. Among other things,this is due to the fact that the - in this case - one-stepproduction process for these nonwovens generate costoptimization potentials. The strength of the nonwovensis hugely important in industrial applications. Theyneed to be extremely tear-resistant and often simulta-neously very extensible. The objective is to achievethese properties with the smallest running meter weightsand optimum raw material input. Here, the OerlikonNeumagspunbond technologies save more than 5 per-cent of raw materials, something that have been dem-onstrated by a benchmark comparison with standardproducts in Europe. And Oerlikon Neumag also standsout with regards to energy consumption: the new gen-eration of the Oerlikon Neumagspunbond systems cutsenergy consumption by virtually 20 percent.

"By focusing on industrial applications for ourspunbond technology, we have built up comprehensive

Oerlikon Neumag offers customers processsolutions for an efficient nonwovens production

know-how covering the overall process, including thenecessary in-line further processing. With this, we aretoday able to offer our customers' requirements-appro-priate production solutions for many such applications",explains Dr. Ingo Mählmann, Business DevelopmentNonwoven, Oerlikon Neumag.

Productivity increase and product diversity formeltblown nonwovensFor its meltblown technology products, OerlikonNeumag will be premiering two further innovations atthe Index in Geneva: the new forming table for theOerlikon Neumagmeltblown systems is characterizedby its integrated multifunctionality and its simulta-neously considerably reduced footprint. It can be movedhorizontally and vertically under the nozzle and hasvarious storage areas, which can be multiply-segmentedand custom-adjusted. This enables extremely high for-mation flexibility and hence increased product diver-sity. The new FAUS system control and operating unitenables the comprehensive automation of meltblownsystems and ensures a considerable increase in theirproductivity and reliability. In its expandable deliverystate, FAUS comprises five different modes of opera-tion with a total of eight different programs, whichguarantee that future high-end meltblown nonwovenscan be manufactured even more efficiently.

Light airlaid nonwovens at high production speedsIn airlaid technology, the Oerlikon Neumag solutionshave been further optimized with the aim of cateringto the demands of the market. In addition to the highflexibility of the forming technology that enables theproduction of simple wipes, wet-wipes and flushablewipes all the way through to particularly high-endtableware, hygiene and medical nonwovens, there istoday a special focus on commercially-attractive pro-duction speeds and system throughputs. The OerlikonNeumagairlaid technology achieves these as a resultof its new forming head, with which extremely highrequirements-appropriate consistency of the fiber lay-ing can be carried out homogeneously even in the caseof extremely thin nonwovens.

For further information:Claudia [email protected]é [email protected]

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SuvinAdvisors Pvt. Ltd, is privileged to be part of halfday seminar organized by SasmiraAlumini Foundation&SasmiraPowerloom Centre at Hotel Regent, Bhiwandion 9th February 2017. Some of the eminent speakersof the industry shared their knowledge on various in-dustry specific topics during the seminar. The half dayseminar witnessed very good response from industrydelegates which includes entrepreneurs, decision mak-ers, government officials and various stakeholders ofthe industry.

Mr. SharadTondon, M.D.,Standon Consultancy &Presi-dent of SasmiraAlumini Foundation (SAF) deliveredwelcome speech where he discussed on various activi-ties carried out by SAF. He took this opportunity tointroduce world's first and only Marathon Run con-nected to the textile industry organised by SAF as oneof their yearly event. He said "In order to promotegood health and bring this community to light SAFhas taken this initiative. It will encourage textile ex-perts and create an awareness for good health."

Mr. Momin from Colourtex presented the technicalpaper on "Reduction of Re-dyeing during Yarn/Fabricprocessing". In his paper, he threw light on the variousprocess & material parameters which results in rejec-tion due to color variation e.g. lot-wise variation inMaterial to Liquor ratio (MLR), water quality mainlybecause of water hardness, variation in weighing ofdyes & chemicals, use of non-calibrated weighingbalances & variation in raw material quality and it'ssupply. The information really served great knowledgeto processors.

The next paper presented by Mr. Salil Shah fromPrashant Group on the topic of "Importance and De-velopments in Modern Weaving Preparatory". He

Report on half day Seminar at Bhiwandi

mentioned that weaving preparatory is heart of weav-ing and good warp preparation is half weaving. Mr.Shah introduced the various verticals and collabora-tions with foreign technology partners of Prashant groupsuch as PrashantGamatex, PrashantWestpoint, PrashantFerber and PrashantTexmach.

FurtherMr. Shahank Pandey from Regional Office ofTextile Commissioner, Navi Mumbai briefed aboutvarious government policies to support Indian textileentrepreneurs. There are around 79 schemes to boostthe textile sector. He discussed about Amended Tech-nology Up-gradation Fund Scheme (ATUFS), Schemefor Production and Employment Linked support forGarmenting & Made-ups Units under TUFS(SPELSGU), various Power loom schemes, Schemefor Integrated Textile Parks (SITP) and Integrated SkillDevelopment Scheme (ISDS).

Mr. AvinashMayekar (MD & CEO, Suvin AdvisorsPvt. Ltd.) presented on topic of the "Investment andDiversification Opportunities in Textiles". He urgedthe entrepreneurs in & around Bhiwandi region to showtheir interest in investing high profit making TechnicalTextile (TT)sector rather than investing into conven-tional textiles which is running at very low margins.There are around 12 segments of technical textileswhich have ample opportunities for investment. In factthe existing set up can also be modified for producingthe TT products after minor modifications in currenttechnologies.

The seminar was concluded with vote of thanks byMr. S.V.Mohile of SAF. The Seminar provided thegreat technical knowledge on various topics as well asnew investment opportunities available in textile sec-tor.

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The Textile Association (India) Visit us on

www.textileassociationindia.org

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Stäubli at Techtextil Frankfurt, GermanyStäubli at Techtextil Frankfurt, Germany at Booth B02 / Hall 3.0

The world's first and only Marathon Run connected tothe textile industry is being organised bySasmiraAlumini Foundation (SAF) in Mumbai, in-formed Mr. SharadTandon, President, SasmiraAluminiFoundation (SAF), here on 9th July 2017.

Addressing a half-day seminar in Bhiwandiorganisedby SAF and SasmiraPowerloom Centre with aim toprovided technical knowledge on various topics as wellas new investment opportunities available in textilesector, Mr.Tandon informed that the Marathon will beheld in cityon 9th July 2017.

He said "In order to promote good health and bringthis community to light SAF has taken this initiative.It will encourage textile experts and create an aware-ness for good health."

During the seminar, Mr. Momin from Colourtex pre-sented the technical paper on "Reduction of Re-dyeingduring Yarn/Fabric processing". In his paper, he threwlight on the various process& material parameterswhich results in rejection due to color variation e.g.lot-wise variation in Material to Liquor ratio (MLR),water quality mainly because of water hardness, varia-tion in weighing of dyes & chemicals, use of non-calibrated weighing balances & variation in raw mate-rial quality and it's supply. The information reallyserved great knowledge to processors.

The next paper presented by Mr. Salil Shah fromPrashant Group on the topic of "Importance and De-

SAF to host first & only textile marathon in city

velopments in Modern Weaving Preparatory". Hementioned that weaving preparatory is heart of weav-ing and good warp preparation is half weaving. Mr.Shah introduced the various verticals and collabora-tions with foreign technology partners of Prashantgroup such as PrashantGamatex, PrashantWestpoint,Prashant Ferber and PrashantTexmach.

Further Mr. Shahank Pandey from Regional Office ofTextile Commissioner, Navi Mumbai briefed aboutvarious government policies to support Indian textileentrepreneurs. There are around 79 schemes to boostthe textile sector. He discussed about Amended Tech-nology Up-gradation Fund Scheme (ATUFS), Schemefor Production and Employment Linked support forGarmenting & Made-ups Units under TUFS(SPELSGU), various Power loom schemes, Schemefor Integrated Textile Parks (SITP) and Integrated SkillDevelopment Scheme (ISDS).

Mr. AvinashMayekar MD & CEO, Suvin Advisors,presented on topic of the "Investment and Diversifica-tion Opportunities in Textiles". He urged the entrepre-neurs in & around Bhiwandi region to show the inter-est in investing high profit making Technical Textile(TT)sector rather than investing into conventional tex-tiles which is running at very low margins. There arearound 12 segments of technical textiles which haveample opportunities for investment. In fact the exist-ing set up can also be modified for producing the TTproducts after minor modifications in current technolo-gies.

NEWS

Innovative weaving technology for future applica-tionsStäubli has been one of the world's leading manufac-turers of high-speed textile machinery since more thana century. After decades of experience as a supplier ofshedding solutions for weaving machines, weavingpreparation systems, and carpet weaving systems inthe traditional textile industry, Stäubli continued itsefforts in research and development to extend its prod-

uct range. For several years already the company is ina position to offer textile machinery dedicated to theproduction of technical textiles. Weavers who counton Stäubli high-performance machinery benefit fromfeatures like high reliability and flexibility will be ableto take the lead on the market of technical textiles withinnovative and creative products for countless applica-tions.


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Machinery and innovative textile samples on ex-hibitStäubli will showcase two machines that fit especiallywell in the production process of technical textiles andinform about. Furthermore a selection of technicalfabrics including spacers and multilayers with variablethickness that have been produced in conjunction withStäubli products such as TF weaving systems, dobbies,Jacquard machines, warp drawing-in, or tying equip-ment.

Magma T12 warp tying machine

Magma T12 warp tying machine

For technical yarn ties monofilaments, coarse multi-filaments, PP ribbons, bastfibres, coarse staple fibres,and many other fibre types. It has been developed foruniversal application ranging from coarse technicalyarns to medium yarn-count range. Its rigid designincludes an optical double-end detection system.

MAGMA is demonstrated at the booth tying monofila-ment, diameter 0.40mm, density 7 threads/cm, 4 can-ister, 140 threads each.

UNIVAL 100

UNIVAL 100

This single-end control Jacquard machine offers morebenefits for sophisticated technical textiles such asautomotive and aeronautic textiles, technical textilesin the sports, industrial, medical sectors, and new fab-ric constructions, even with glass fibre, carbon, andKevlar.

Information will be provided about newTF weavingsystem providing individual system configuration andmaximum flexibility. This system offers virtually un-limited weaving possibilities, whether for flat, spacer,or complex multi-layer fabrics and 3D fabrics.

Featuring latest sheddingmachines in combination withthe double-rapier weft insertion system and a specialslaying motion this system allows high-volume pro-duction of up to very thick and/or dense fabrics andefficient processing of a wide variety of technical andhighly sensitive yarns. This weaving system is avail-able featuring various machinery combinations and set-ups for weaving any application and desired technicalfabric.

With its Schönherr carpet systems branch, Stäubli willinform visitors about the ALPHA 500 LEANTECweaving system allowing the production of superiorhigh-quality synthetic grass and greige material forprinting.

For more information, please contact:Stäubli AGFritz Legler / Press RelationsPhone: +41 81 725 01 01E-mail: [email protected] Dairain / Press Contact ExecutivePhone: +33 (0)4 50 64 31 68Mobile: +33 (0)7 60 28 22 19E-mail: [email protected]

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Texttreasure

There is an art to science, and a science inart; the two are not enemies, but differentaspects of the whole.

- Isaac Asimov


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With the vision to provide continuous support for thegrowth of Indian Textile Industry, Suvin Advisors Pvt.Ltd. is "One Stop Solution" offering gamut of servicesunder one roof. To address, the rising problem of skilledmanpower of the industry, Suvin started with "SuvinHR Solutions."

Textiles being most ancient industry, some of the tex-tile mills are working since several decades. Most ofthe textile entrepreneurs who started their businessesare now transferring their business in the hands of 2ndor 3rd generations, in some cases it is even the 4thgeneration.The next generation is well qualified andthey have better understanding of doing businesses intoday's global competitive environment. They wouldlike to train their people to make them smarter andtechno savvy. Todays' social, political, environmental,technological and economic scenario is different thanearlier days.

Top five challenges faced by young entrepreneurs arein the areas of:◆ Establishing and stabilizing robust management

process◆ Optimizing operating costs◆ Speeding up supply chain management process◆ Strengthening marketing and sales management

processes

Suvin Offers "End to End HR Solutions"

◆ Developing human resources to meet today's busi-ness challenges.

Suvin has understood the need of an hour for efficientmanpower & developed "End to End HR Solutions"with unique program which includes development ofHR processes, people development & leadership de-velopment.

The core team includes industry stalwarts like Mr.AvinashMayekar (MD & CEO) with 3 decades ofexperience in textile industry, Mr. MakrandRege (Di-rector) who has worked with renowned company likeMercuriGoldmann having 15 years of vast experiencein coaching & training programs andMr.AnandAmbdoskar (Director) having 35 years ofexperience in development of HR processes, mentoring& training.

In depth knowledge of problems faced by of textileindustry & customized industry specific solution dif-ferentiates Suvin from other HR consultancy firms.

So, Suvin is all set to help you in identifying, analyz-ing and addressing the challenges and offer appropri-ate solutions.

Let us carve out… better tomorrow!!!

The young leaders driving China's textile industryUSTER fosters new talent in 10 years

of university programssionals - and USTER is proud to play a role in foster-ing the development of these talented individuals. Thecompany's close links with Chinese universities started10 years ago, and in that period USTER has devel-oped a scholarship program which now covers eightuniversities and has so far involved well over 500students.

Richard Furter, USTER's former Head of Textile Tech-nology, started the scholarship initiative and was per-sonally involved in developing the program throughits early years. At that time, he was assisted by EllenLiu, Head of Textile Technology in China, who trans-

Progress in China's textile industry is increasingly beingdriven by a young and dynamic generation of profes-

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lated. She remembers that students in the program wereimmediately impressed by the concept of quality con-trol and management and the potentiality offered byquality testing and monitoring instruments.

Today, the company is still convinced that the USTERscholarship program will encourage successive gen-erations of students to continue the transformation ofChina's textile industry from a traditional sector to amodern global player in quality markets. USTER be-lieves it's important to lay the foundations for this atthe textile universities, so that students are introducedto new ideas and become inspired by the possibilities.

Internships for practical experienceSince 2010, USTER has also been offering internshipsat its laboratory in Suzhou, in collaboration withDonghua University. Each year, two master's degreestudents are able to gain experience as testing engi-neers, working with USTER staff - as well as havingaccess to latest test technology to help with their the-ses. The internships allocate students' time 50:50 be-tween work in the lab and individual study, all sup-ported by regular training from USTER Textile Tech-nologists.

Ms Liu also continues the popular and valuable pro-gram of university lectures started in 2007 by the lateand highly-respected USTER expert Richard Furter andcontinued by Thomas Nasiou, today CEO of UsterTechnologies. Both these men spent time lecturingstudents at Donghua and Qingdao universities. MrFurterinitiated the lecture program based on his personalstrong belief that the young professionals will drivethe Chinese textile industry into a well-developed,modern business. He put a lot of effort in fostering thefuture generation.Through a career with USTER spanning 47 years, hewas renowned for his seemingly limitless knowledge.He was even asked to write an independent textbook,

titled 'Textile Measuring Technology and Quality Con-trol' which was officially acknowledged by China'stextile education authorities and has been a 'set book'for textile students since 2012.

Scholarships at eight universitiesThe first USTER scholarships at Donghua Universityand Qingdao University started in 2008. Since then,the program has expanded to include six more estab-lishments which regard the company as a partner infulfilling their educational goals: Tianjin PolytechnicUniversity, Xi'an Polytechnic University, JiangnanUniversity, Zhongyuan University of Technology,Nantong University, and Yancheng Institute of Tech-nology. They appreciate the specific technical focus ofthe lectures on quality management and control, aswell as USTER®STATISTICS.

So far, 563 students at different levels (undergraduate,masters and PHD) have been awarded USTER schol-arships. Successful students must demonstrate highperformance - in marks and engagement - but alsoinvolvement in research and university projects, alongwith well-developed personal and interactive skills.

Over the years, many USTER scholarship winners havegone on to work in key textile industry posts, or asuniversity professors themselves. "My company em-ployed me as testing engineer when I graduated justbecause I had learned USTER® instrument knowledgeduring my internship. I can say that USTER knowl-edge helped me to gain this career opportunity," saysGuangZhenGuo, who works as a supervisor in CFIBbranch in Fujian province. He studied at DonghuaUniversity and had the chance to take part in a year-long USTER internship program.

Professor Yong Liu was, as a PhD student, a winner ofone of the first USTER scholarships in 2008. Today

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he holds the positions of vice-dean of the textile col-lege of Tianjin Polytechnic University and doctorialsupervisor. He says: "I was inspired to devote myselfto the textile industry and contribute to the develop-ment of textile talents as well as to scientific and tech-nological progress." This reaction is typical of themajority of students, who report that their scholarshipgave them the confidence to remain in the textile sec-tor and the encouragement to anticipate and movechanges in China.

Belief in the future of textilesUSTER is convinced that younger staff members arethe key to implementing sustainable and successfulquality management concepts in the spinning industry.The university environment introduces students tomodern methods and attitudes in the textile industry,opening their minds and giving them the courage tochallenge strong traditions. "There is a trend now foryarn producers to realize how textile engineers canhelp to improve the competitive capabilities of theirspinning mills. They seek employees with universitydegrees and offer higher salaries," says Ms Liu. "Somecompanies will even promise quick promotion to en-

sure that young professionals stay in the job for years."The Chinese government has itself recognized thepotential benefits of increased quality standards, andlaunched new initiatives to promote a high quality andbrand oriented policy for manufacturing industries in2016. Students who are ready to embrace qualitymanagement concepts will provide a good foundationfor this campaign. And Uster Technologies is pleasedto take part in the modern development of China'stextile industry through its continuing commitment tosupporting the future textile professionals with its schol-arship and internship programs.

Media contact:Edith AepliSenior Manager Marketing & CommunicationUster Technologies AGSonnenbergstrasse 10CH - 8610 Uster / SwitzerlandDirect: +41 43 366 38 80Mobile: +41 79 916 02 91Fax: +41 43 366 39 58E-mail: [email protected]

The term 'Vanya' is of Sanskrit origin, meaning un-tamed, wild, or forest-based. Wild silks are often re-ferred to in India as 'Vanya' silks. India produces fourkinds of silk: Temperate Tasar, Tropical Tasar, Muga

Vanya Silk- Dress Design Competition:Achievement of SASMIRA students

and Eri. India is one of the leading producers of thesevarieties of silks apart from being second largest pro-ducer of silk next only to China.

Central Silk Board, Ministry of Textiles, Governmentof India is the premier body for development and pro-motion of silk in India. As part of generic promotionof silk and provide confidence in the genuine users ofpure silk, Vanya Silk Market Promotion Cell, CentralSilk Board & Silk Mark Organization of India (SMOI)had organized Vanya Silk- Dress Design CompetitionMumbai. The program has the prime objective of pro-moting & popularizing the Vanya Silks by showcasingtheir commercial applications. Altogether, students from15 colleges from all over Maharashtra had participatedwith almost 45 finalized entries in this competition.

The participants were supposed to design and stitch agarment using Vanya Silk fabrics which are commer-cially available in the market and submit the same tothe jury.

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From SASMIRA 3 entries were shortlisted by the SETP(SASMIRA's Education & Training Program) Dept.,namely,◆ Ms. Shreya Visariya - B Sc (FD) - TY◆ Ms. Priyal Sidhpura - B Sc (FD) - TY◆ Ms. Disha Thakkar - B Sc (FD) - SY

The thought process of the SASMIRA students was tochallenge and change the perception that Silk is onlyused for Sarees and other traditional wear. Their ideaswere well received by the faculties of the departmentwho guided the participants to come up with designsfor Corporate Wear & Club Wear.

On Wednesday 25th January 2017, Vanya Silk MarketPromotion Cell, Central Silk Board & Silk Mark Or-ganization of India organized an interactive seminaron "Vanya Silk Product Development & commercial-ization" along with the Prize Distribution Ceremony

of the Dress Design Competition at SVT College ofHome Science, Juhu, Mumbai.

Out of the three entries from SASMIRA, the follow-ing two entries were awarded as the Best Designs, asunder:◆ 1st Prize - Ms.Disha Thakkar - B Sc (FD) - SY◆ 2nd Prize - Ms. Shreya Visariya - B Sc (FD) - TY

The prize winners were presented with a Winner'scertificate and a cash prize of rupees 14,000/- (1stPosition) and 9,000/- (2nd Position).

The entire exercise has been a great learning and anenjoyable experience for the students. The SETP Dept.,headed by Shri Krishnendu Datta, mentored the stu-dents at each step for the design thought process &development.

◆ ANNUAL CAPACITY TO INCREASE BY60,000 METRIC TONS

◆ AROUND •25 MILLION TO BE INVESTED◆ NEW DISPERSION REACTOR SCHEDULED

FOR COMPLETION THIS YEAR◆ CEO RUDOLF STAUDIGL: "THE ADDI-

TIONAL CAPACITY WILL STRENGTHENOUR MARKET POSITION AS ONE OF THEWORLD'S LEADING MANUFACTURERS OFDISPERSIONS AND DISPERSIBLE POLYMERPOWDERS"

Hoisting the premix tank into the production building

At WACKER's main site in Burghausen, we manufac-ture dispersions and dispersible polymer powders,

WACKER Expands Production Capacity forDispersions at its Burghausen Site

which find use as binders in sectors such as construc-tion, coatings and adhesives. With the new 60,000-metric-tondispersion reactor, WACKER is strengthen-ing its position as a market and technology leader inthis field.WackerChemie AG is expanding its existing produc-tion plants for polymeric binders in Germany. TheMunich-based chemical group is currently buildinganother dispersion reactor with an annual capacity of60,000 metric tons at its Burghausen site. Some •25million have been earmarked for the production andlocal-infrastructure expansion. The plant is scheduledfor completion before the end of the year.

WACKER's dispersions are commonly used to formu-late low-odor and low-emission indoor paints, but canalso be found in plasters, adhesives, carpet applica-tions or technical textiles. Moreover, they are the keyraw material for the production of dispersible polymerpowders for construction applications. WACKERmanufactures these powders by spray drying at itsBurghausen site.

"The enlargement of our dispersion production inBurghausen is part of our strategy to achieve furtherprofitable growth through expansions atexisting pro-duction plants," said Rudolf Staudigl, president & CEOof WackerChemie AG, explaining the investment mea-

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sure. "The additional capacity will strengthen ourmarket position as one of the world's leading manufac-turers of dispersions and dispersible polymer powders,and will help us meet our customers' continuouslyincreasing demand over the long term," emphasizedthe Group CEO.

In this way, WACKER is taking account of the glo-bally rising demand for high-quality polymeric bind-ers, which is being driven by worldwide trends suchas urbanization, renovation and energy efficiency.Alongside the new reactor, the Group is also investingin the expansion and modernization of local infrastruc-ture. "We are not only making a key contribution tosupply security in the years to come, but also to thecost-efficient production of our dispersions and dis-persible polymer powders," explained Peter Summo,head of the WACKER POLYMERS business division.

With over 60 years' experience in the developmentand production of dispersions and dispersible polymerpowders, WACKER is a global technology and marketleader in the field of vinyl-acetate-based copolymersand terpolymers. The binders find use in sectors suchas construction, paints, coatings and adhesives, forexample for formulating high-quality tile adhesives,cementitious waterproofing membranes, energy-savingexternal thermal insulation composite systems, or low-odor, low-emission interior paints.

For further information, please contact:WackerChemie AGMedia Relations & InformationNadine BaumgartlTel. +49 89 6279 [email protected]

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This has been one of thevery successful FreeTrade Agreements whichis really great benefit toUS, Canada & Mexico. Ithas been discussed veryoften during current USelections. Some of theinteresting details are asunder and it is continu-

ous to be a most successful Free Trade Agreement whichhas created travel opportunity of 50 billion USD.

In the 20 years since it entered into force, the NorthAmerican Free Trade Agreement has been both laudedand attacked in the United States. But to properly assessNAFTA's record, it is important to first be clear aboutwhat the agreement has actually done.

Economically speaking, the answer is a lot. By unitingthe economies of Canada, Mexico, and the United States,NAFTA created what is today a $19 trillion regionalmarket with some 470 million consumers. The U.S.Chamber of Commerce figures that some six million U.S.jobs depend on trade with Mexico and another eightmillion on trade with Canada. NAFTA was the first com-prehensive free-trade agreement to join developed anddeveloping nations, and it achieved broader and deepermarket openings than any trade agreement had before.

Then-U.S. President Bill Clinton signs theNorth American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA)

NAFTA did that by eliminating tariffs on all industrialgoods, guaranteeing unrestricted agricultural trade be-

North American Free Trade Agreement(NAFTA) Analyzed

Sourced & Compiled by Arvind Sinha

tween the United States and Mexico, opening up a broadrange of service sectors, and instituting national treat-ment for cross-border service providers. It also set highstandards of protection for patents, trademarks, copy-rights, and trade secrets.

To preserve the rights of investors, it prohibited barrierssuch as local-content and import-substitution rules, whichrequire producers to ensure that specified inputs are pro-duced domestically.

For the United States, the economic consequences ofthese reforms -- which have also had social, political,and cultural impacts -- have been dramatic. If NorthAmerica is to remain a uniquely competitive region,however, it will need to build on NAFTA's success byopening markets beyond its borders.

TRADE AND GROWTH

Trade growth since NAFTA's entry into force

NAFTA ignited an explosion in cross-border economicactivity. Today, Canada ranks as the United States' larg-est single export market, and it sends 98 percent of itstotal energy exports to the United States, making Canadathe United States' largest supplier of energy products andservices. Mexico is the United States' second-largest singleexport market. Over the past two decades, a highly effi-cient and integrated supply chain has developed amongthe three North American economies. Intraregional tradeflows have increased by roughly 400 percent, from around$290 billion in 1993 to over $1.1 trillion in 2012.

Every day, nearly $2 billion in goods and services crossthe United States' northern border and roughly $1 billionworth cross its southern border.

Today, thanks to NAFTA, North Americans not only sellmore things to one another; they also make more things

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together. About half of U.S. trade with Canada andMexico takes place between related companies, and theresulting specialization has boosted productivity in allthree economies. For every dollar of goods that Canadaand Mexico export to the United States, there are 25cents' worth of U.S. inputs in the Canadian goods and 40cents' worth in the Mexican goods. By way of compari-son, there are four cents' worth of U.S. inputs in Chinesegoods going to the American market and two cents' worthfor Japanese goods.

NAFTA has also caused cross-border investment to soar.Since the treaty was signed, the United States, Canada'slargest source of foreign capital, has invested more than$310 billion in Canada, and Canada, the United States'fifth-largest source of foreign capital, has invested over$200 billion in the United States. Mexico has also mademajor investments north of its border since NAFTA wassigned, especially in the cement, bread, dairy, and retailsectors, thereby contributing to U.S. jobs and tax rev-enues. Similarly, U.S. investment in Mexico has grownsubstantially, with about half of it going to the manufac-turing sector and much of that share flowing to the au-tomotive industry. The United States derives a uniquebenefit from its investments in Canada and Mexico be-cause a large percentage of thatoutput returns home asimports of intermediate goods, which allows U.S. firmsto focus on the higher-end task of assembling finishedproducts.

The United States' expanded economic collaboration hascreated another economic benefit: a boom in intraregionaltravel by businesspeople, tourists, and students. Accord-ing to the U.S. Department of Commerce, in 2011,Americans made nearly 12 million trips to Canada andspent almost $8 billion there, and they made 20 milliontrips to Mexico (the top destination for U.S. tourists) andspent over $9 billion there. The United States' neighborsreturned the favor, with Canadians making 21 milliontrips to the United States and spending $24 billion thereand Mexicans making more than 13 million trips andspending almost $8 billion.

In spite of this impressive economic record, NAFTA hasits critics. Most of those who attack it on economicgrounds focus on Mexico, not Canada, and claim that thepartnership is one-sided: that NAFTA is Mexico's gainand America's pain. But the economic data prove other-wise. Last year, roughly 14 percent of U.S. exports wentto Mexico -- more than went to Brazil, Russia, India, andChina combined. Indeed, Mexico buys more U.S. goodsthan the rest of Latin America combined, and more thanFrance, Germany, the Netherlands, and the United King-dom combined. Although economists still debate whetherNAFTA has caused a net gain or a net loss in U.S. jobs,

they agree that the market openings it created have gen-erated more export-related jobs in the United States, whichpay an average of 15 to 20 percent more than thosefocused purely on domestic production.

With 116 million consumers who have a combined pur-chasing power of more than $1 trillion, Mexico repre-sents a major market opportunity for U.S. entrepreneurslarge and small. But small U.S. enterprises, lacking theglobal reach of major corporations, benefit in particularfrom Mexico's proximity and openness. Mexicans pur-chase about 11 percent of the exports of small and me-dium-size U.S. companies, which account for more thanhalf of all job creation in the United States. Even Mexi-can exports worldwide benefit the U.S. economy, be-cause of their high percentage of U.S. content. Andmaking the picture even brighter, for every dollar thatMexico earns from its exports, it spends 50 cents onU.S. goods.

MOVING NORTH AND SOUTHAnother of NAFTA's positive effects has been the in-creased sharing of talent. Today, Canadians constituteabout three percent of the United States' total foreign-born population, and Mexicans constitute about 30 per-cent. Americans make up about four percent of Canada'sforeign-born population and roughly 70 percent ofMexico's. The Canadians and Mexicans who live in theUnited States are younger than the overall U.S. popula-tion. And according to a study conducted by the KauffmanFoundation, immigrants in the United States are almosttwice as likely to start a new business as native-bornAmericans.

Complaints about U.S. immigration policy focus prima-rily on concerns about Mexico. What are the facts?According to the Pew Hispanic Center, 34 million His-panics of Mexican origin live in the United States, roughlytwo-thirds of whom were born there. Of those born inMexico, the majority arrived in the United States after1990, encouraged by the growth of cross-border travel,trade, investment, and business collaboration that NAFTAstimulated.

About half of them reside in the United States legally. Inrecent years, however, as the Mexican economy hasexpanded and created more jobs, both illegal and legalimmigration from Mexico to the United States has plum-meted. Compared with 1990, today, as a result of higher-than-average birthrates, the number of U.S.-born peopleof Mexican origin has more than doubled. Also, com-pared with their predecessors from that year, today'sMexican immigrants tend to be older, with an averageage of 38, versus 29, and better educated, with 41 per-cent holding at least a high school degree, versus 25



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percent. Their numbers have had a cultural impact, too.Holidays such as Cinco de Mayo are widely celebratedacross America. As a nation of immigrants, the UnitedStates celebrates its cultural diversity.

In addition to contributing youth, talent, and culturaldiversity, these immigrants are having an impact on poli-tics. In the 2012 presidential election, Hispanic voterscomposed ten percent of the electorate, up from eightpercent in 2004. They lean Democratic and tend to holdmore liberal views on immigration policy. An exit pollconducted during the 2012 election asked voters whatshould happen to unauthorized immigrants working inthe United States, and 77 percent of Hispanic respon-dents, compared with 65 percent overall, said that theseimmigrants should be given a chance to apply for legalstatus.

Hispanics' growing numbers have contributed to a shiftin the balance of political power in some battlegroundstates. In 2012, President Barack Obama carried 75 per-cent of the Hispanic vote in Colorado and 70 percent inNevada, winning both states. As Hispanics' share of theU.S. population increases, their political voice shouldonly grow stronger. Increasingly, they are joining politi-cally interested civic groups; the United States now has2.3 million Hispanic business owners and 1.2 millionHispanic military veterans.

BEYOND NAFTAThe economic, political, and social integration that hastaken place in North America since NAFTA went intoeffect has made the region one of the most competitiveon the planet. But the rest of the world has not stoodstill. Supply chains encircle the globe, and bilateral andregional trade agreements to which the United States isnot a party are giving other countries preferential accessto key markets.

To ensure that the U.S. economy continues to grow andremain competitive, the United States needs to keep NorthAmerica's supply chains working at maximum efficiencyand global markets open to North American products,services, investment, and ideas. There are a number ofactions the United States could take, building on theNAFTA platform, to create new commercial opportuni-ties. For example, when the U.S. government evaluatesa potential trade arrangement, it should assess the ben-efits not only on a national basis but also on a regionalbasis. In that regard, it was encouraging to see Canadaand Mexico join the negotiations of the Trans-PacificPartnership, a proposed free-trade agreement among 12countries in Asia and the Americas.

Similarly, as the United States negotiates the Transatlan-tic Trade and Investment Partnership with the 28 coun-tries that compose the EU, it would benefit immenselyby including Canada and Mexico, which would add 150million consumers and $3 trillion in GDP, making aneven stronger agreement. Doing so would reduce need-less complexity, too, since Mexico has had a free-tradeagreement with the EU since 2000 and Canada just con-cluded one in October 2013. For entrepreneurs on bothsides of the Atlantic, having to deal with three separateagreements with different rules of origin and differentcustoms measures would add unnecessary costs and regu-latory headaches. It would also erode the hugely benefi-cial economic integration North America has achievedthanks to NAFTA. A single agreement among the threecountries of North America and the EU would bringbadly needed regulatory coherence to more than half ofthe world's trading volume.

In addition, having all three North American govern-ments participate in the negotiations would give them anopportunity to upgrade the provisions of NAFTA thatwere not especially relevant 20 years ago, such as thosedealing with digital data flows. Finally, such a deal couldfacilitate the economic reforms of Mexican PresidentEnrique Peña Nieto, who is seeking to open up Mexico'senergy sector to foreign investment. Pointing to the ben-efits that Mexico could obtain from a mega-agreementthat involved half of global GDP could help Peña Nietobuild political support for his energy reforms, which theUnited States strongly supports.

In just 20 years, NAFTA has succeeded in spurring anenormous amount of economic activity throughoutCanada, the United States, and Mexico.

But in order to maximize future growth, North Americanuniversities, think tanks, and business organizations willneed to better educate the public about the tremendousgains that can come from increased regional economicintegration. Given how closely NAFTA has drawn thenations of North America together -- not just economi-cally but also politically, culturally, and socially -- this isa goal they can and should strive to achieve. Shall beconsidered as most one of the Free Trade Agreement andif it is corrected slightly it will continue a success path.

Sourced & Compiled byMr. Arvind Sinha - CEO & Chief AdvisorM/s. Business Advisors Group, MumbaiCell No. 9820062612 / 8108612612Email ID: [email protected] /[email protected]



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FORTHCOMING EVENTS

INDIA

Tex-Styles IndiaDate : 21st to 24th February, 2017Venue : Pragati Maidan, New Delhi, IndiaContact : Mrs. Hema Maity

India Trade Promotion OrganisationPragati Bhawan, Pragati Maidan,New Delhi - 110001 (INDIA)

Tel. : +91-11-23371818Website : www.texstylesindia.in

Fabrics & Accessories Trade ShowDate : 03rd to 05th March, 2017Venue : Karnataka Trade Promotion Organization

Bengaluru, IndiaOrganizer: SS Textile Media Private Limited

No. 826, 9th Cross 10th Main, Indira Nagar,2nd Stage, Bengaluru, India

6th Edition HOMETEX TECH EXPO - 2017 PanipatDate : 17, 18 & 19th March, 2017Venue : Anaaj Mandi, G.T. Road, Panipat (Haryana), IndiaContact : Rajesh Sinha, M.: +91-9324077881E-mail : [email protected] : www.essentialtradefairs.com

6thTechnotex 2017 ConferenceMinistry of Textiles, Govt. of India in association with (FICCI)Advantage India: Emerging Global Manufacturing Hub forTechnical TextilesDate : 12-14th April, 2017Venue : NSC Complex, Goregaon (E), Mumbai - IndiaContact : Mr. Pradeep Ahire

FICCI-MSC, Krishnamai, Plot No.33-B,Sir Pochkhanwala Road,Worli, Mumbai - 400 030

M. : +91-9594933131/9324058239E-mail : [email protected] : http://www.technotexindia.in

3rd International Textile Exhibition - Textile Expo 2017 SuratDate : 14-16th April, 2017Venue : SIECC Surat International Exhibition &

Convention Centre, SuratContact : Textile Graph Event Management

S-3, Second Floor, Sardar Complex,Central Road No. 6, Udyognagar,Udhna, Surat - 394 210, Gujarat (India)

Tel. : +91-0261-2278787, 2902727M. : +91-9825118176, 8866065888, 9979873343E-mail : [email protected],

[email protected] : www.textileexpo2017surat.com

The Textile Association (India) - Mumbai Unit organizingSeminar on "Opportunities in the Current Challenges inWeaving Sector"Date : 22nd April, 20177Venue : Hotel Fortune Park Galaxy, Daffodil Hall,

N.H. No. 08, Vapi - 396 195 (Gujarat)Contact : Mr. Haresh B. Parekh, Convener

The Textile Association (India), Mumbai UnitAmar Villa, Behind Villa Diana, Flat No. 3,Near Portuguese Church / Maher Hall, 86,College Lane, Dadar (W), Mumbai - 400 028

Tel. : +91-22-24328044 24307702,Fax : +91-22-24307708E-mail : [email protected], [email protected],Website : www.texstileassociationindia.com

Techtextil India 2017International Trade Fair for Technical Textiles and NonwovensDate : 13-15th September, 2017Venue : NSC Complex, Goregaon (E), Mumbai - IndiaContact : Priyanka Pawar - +91-22-61445990

Jesica John - +91-22-61445937E-mail : [email protected],

Jesica.john@ india.messefrankfurt.com

ITMACH INDIA - International Textile Machinery &Accessories ExhibitionDate : 07th to 10th December, 2017Venue : Helipad Exhibition Center, Gandhinagar,

Ahmedabad, Gujarat (India)Contact : Arvind Semlani - M.: +91-9833977743E-mail : [email protected]

Radhika Boddu - M.: +91-9867127598E-mail : [email protected]

Bhavesh Thakar -M. : +91-9375322449E-mail : [email protected]:www.ITMACH.com

ABROAD

International TEXTILE MACHINERY & AccessoriesExhibitionDate : 09 to 11th March, 2017Venue : Belgrade,Contact : Meridyen International Fair Organization

Halil Rifat Pasa Mah., Abullah Eraslan Cad,34149 Istanbul, Turkey

Tel. : +90(0)212 2105050Fax : +90(0)212 2101733Website : www.meridyenfair.tr

Largest International Textile and Garment TechnologyExhibitionDate : 20th to 26th June, 2019Venue : FIRA CE Barcelona Gran Via,

Barcelona, SpainContact : Daphne Poon

Marketing Communications DirectorITMA Services Pte Ltd.73 Ubi Road 1, #08-48 Oxley BizHub,Singapore 408733

Tel. : (65) 6849 9362 M: (65) 94789543E-mail : [email protected] : www.itma.com

Every effort is made to ensure that the infor-mation given is correct. You are however,advised to re-check the dates with the orga-nizers, for any change in schedule, venueetc., before finalizing your travel plans.

JAN FEB 2017 - Textile Association of India · 2020-02-06 · January - February 2017 297 Journal...

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Transcript of JAN FEB 2017 - Textile Association of India · 2020-02-06 · January - February 2017 297 Journal...