JamaicanEats magazine Aug-Nov 2010 preview

JamaicanEatsBringing a taste of the Caribbean to the world

BonusRex Nettleford’sschool boy eatsGrandma

JamaicanEats

Cracking the health secrets of the coconut

Readers remembertheir own grandmas &ol’ time food

Dutchie cooking ‘sweet’ and slow

Barbados’‘Bush Doctor’

RememberingGrandma Mabel

a boyhood friendremembers the late

cultural icon

She turned bread into wine

Last Bite; Sexy Pinkpan Top -page 46

aUg. - nOv. 2010 vOL. 3 nO. 3US$6.95 Can$6.95 Uk £4.50 J$500

Chantel Selman

Ol’ time eats – Fou Fou, Bulla, Irish Moss & more

www.jamaicaneats.com i august - november 2010 Jamaican eats 3

Food inspired by...

Grandma

Actually, she was my great grandmother,

and back in St. Mary, Jamaica, we called

her Sister Wadi. I remember that she

was tall and proud and taught me

how to cook.

The food I serve at my restaurant

may have a modern twist – with

items like the Bob Marley Pizza

Bowl – but every bite is

flavoured with memories

of Sister Wadi.

- Chef Bounty,

Jamaican Pizza Jerk restaurant,

Vancouver, Canada

Jamaican Pizza JerkTel: 604.876.3343 Fax: 604.876.3374 e-mail: [email protected]

2707 Commercial Drive, Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada

Advertisement

Pizza Jerk

4 Jamaican eats august - november 2010 i www.jamaicaneats.com

When we started planning this issue of JamaicanEats earlier in the year, I got a callfromGrandma Mabel Smith of Portland, Jamaica. She was just keeping in touch, shesaid, to let me know she had fallen and broken her hips, but was doing fine. Then, in true Grandma Mabel form, she asked to sell more of the Summer/Fall2008 edition in which she had been featured. Never mind that she had already – sin-gle-handedly – sold more than 50 copies. The entrepreneur and persistent saleswomanthat she was, Grandma reckoned she could make some more spare change, especiallysince we had been generous enough to offer her 50 per cent of each magazine she sold. Before we could make those arrangements though, word came in March thatGranda Mabel had died. The most decorated participant in the nearly 50-year historyof the Jamaica Cultural Development Commission’s (JCDC) amateur culinary com-

petition, she took with her a genius for creating new dishes and beveragesfrom everyday items. And for those of us lucky enough to have met her,she took a tiny piece of our hearts.

Always pleasant and upbeat, she was the quintessential village grandmawho cared for other people’s children though she had none of her own.And, according to neighbours, she always had pot ‘pon’ fire.

So while this issue of the magazine had not started with grandma talesand old-time food, thoughts of Grandma Mabel persisted in its evolution.

It got me thinking about my own grandmothers – Grandma Johnson(Gran) and the other grandma we called Aunt. The culinary divide between these two women could not have been greater. WhereasGrandma Johnson could make you want to lick the plate with the simplest of dishes like cornmeal dumplings and pickup saltfish (cod),Aunt could actually burn water. She tried, but there were many anevening when my grandfather (known as, what else, Uncle) would take alook at dinner and turned it over to the dogs. And, much to the delight ofus children, he would send us to the shop to buy ‘dry’ food like cornbreadand cheese. Flip to page page 12 for grandma stories, recipes, readers’

memories of their grandmothers and dig into old time recipes like fou fou, bulla cake,ackee and saltfish and Irish Moss. We also have more old-time food memories from David Cook, who dished aboutthe schoolboy eats of his boyhood friend, the late Jamaican cultural icon Rex Nettle-ford who died suddenly earlier this year. Then comedienne and cultural educator Joan Andrea Hutchinson, in an excerptfrom her new book Kin Teeth Kibba Heart Bun, takes us back to the days of overnightdumplin’, bun bun and pot water. Besides the good ol’ days, we have Rosemary Parkinson’s piece about Chantel Sel-man, a determined young woman with a vision. Find out why they call her Barbados’‘bush doctor’ and get her Pumpkin Ginger Soup and other recipes. Plus, Florida-based corporate executive chef Sean Lucas serves up a taste of Jamaicahis way, with scrumptious jerk shrimp, a fancy Mac’ and Cheese and more. We alsocrack the health secrets of the coconut and explore why dutch pot cooking is so sweet. As usual, we’re serving up a real bellyful in the pages that follow. Dig in and enjoy!

editor’snote

Remembering grandma

Grace Cameron

Photo

by

gla

ce L

awre

nce


ON THE MENU

AUGUST - NOVEMBER 2010

JamaicanEatsLETTERS TO THE EDITORReaders weigh in with tips, recipes and ideasfrom a Jerk BBQ Chicken recipe; a twist toPepper Pot Soup; and comments on enter-tainer Tony Rebel’s take on food and health.

JAMAICA MY WAYFlorida-based Corporate Executive ChefSean Lucas, serves up a posh and tasty version of Jamaica His Way. Get his JerkShrimp, Lobster Mac and Cheese, and MiniCrab Cakes with Lucas Island-style Pineapple Relish

FROM GRANDMA WITH LOVERemembering Grandma Mabel Smith. Plusreaders recall their favourite Grandmadishes. Get her bread wine and BananaMoussa recipes as well as long timefavourites like:. Ackee and Saltfish (cod); . Fou Fou, a tradi-tional African dish that goes by variousnames in the Caribbean. Bulla Cake . Irish Moss, for ‘strong back’

JOAN ANDREA HUTCHINSONBet you didn’t know that fish head couldmake you smart. Cultural educator andcomedienne Joan Andrea Hutchinson hasthis and other old-time jamaican beliefsabout food.

REX NETTLEFORD’S

SCHOOLBOY EATS. David Cook, who went to school with thelate cultural icon recalls their schoolboy eats.. PLUS Writer LaToya West tells us moreabout Nettleford and how he ate during histrips overseas.

BARBADOS’ BUSH DOCTORWriter Rosemary Parkinson tells us whythey call Chantel Selman a ‘bush doctor’ inBarbados. Selman shares her Pumpkin Ginger Soup, Curry Plantain; and specialSushi and Pumpkin Spaghetti recipes.

DUTCH POT COOKINGWriter Wandeka Gayle finds out why somepeople swear by cooking in the dutch pot.

SECRETS OF THE COCONUTCoconut is like the breast of the Earth. Thewater washes out the heart and brings energy to the cells of the body, says raw foodguru Aris LaThamwho likes to wax poeticabout the amazing benefits of coconut water.LaTham isn’t the only one enamored by thenumerous benefits of the coconut. We crackopen the goodness of the coconut.

LAST BITEScrumptious gourmet-style bonbons fromPastry Chef Anthony Walters.

On the cover: Sexy Sexy Pinkpan Top gourmet-style bon bonPhotos by Rosemary Parkinson


Please keepyour lettersand e-mailscoming

Please e-mail us :[email protected], [email protected] write us @ Jamaican eatsmagazine, P.o. box1875, Kingston 8,Jamaica, W.i. or visit us online,jamaicaneats.comand blog with usor join us on face-book or twitter.

I think your magazine is awesome. I am Jamaican and it is a pleasureto sit down and read the articlesand recipes. I still love my Jamaican food. I even cook saltfishand ackee whenever I can find ackees. (Wata come a mi eye.) I first came across the magazinein New York City and I just lovemy hard copies my daughter enjoysthem too.

Cynthia Morgan, Owings Mills, MD

I came across your magazine several years ago in the Air Jamaica first class

lounge in Kingston and since then I’ve been hooked. I saw the magazine and

just went nuts. Reading it is like giving me a fantastic meal. Evon Phillips, New York

I am still enjoying your amazingmagazine. I've got quite a number ofpeople hooked now. Each issue seemsbetter than the one before. My daughter and I enjoy tellingpeople about the magazine. Evenfriends of mine in Jamaica who hadnot heard about it are running to thestore now to get a copy. Someone from our church called mydaughter (Nicole Marshall) last weekto find out if she was the one who

wrote the letter in the July-November2009 issue about the patties. The ladywas at Chapters bookstore and decided to buy the issue. She saidevery night before going to bed shereads a story or two. You've got people who don't nor-mally read magazines reading now.My husband is a prime example. Keep up the good work. you’re doinga fantastic job!Althea Thompson, Ajax, Ontario

‘Wata come a mi eye’

Hello from the mountains of New Mexico, USA. I just acquired two copies of your magazine. They are beautiful. Thank you for all the energy that has gone into making them that way. I particularly liked the advertis- ment for the Cinnamon Mint Tea for diabetes. I am a RN and certified clinical herbalist and Iam especially concerned about the toll diabetes is taking around the world. I encourage organic and local foods and, of course, teas to prevent, control and cure diabetes.

I liked the article on Tony Rebel (July-November 2009). His diet recommendations are very similar to what I have people eat who want to detox their bodies. Weshare the same philosophy —

“Let food be your medicine”.Jessie Emerson, New Mexico

Tony Rebel is rightyourletters

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looks forward

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bellyful of

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each issue.

november 2009-March 2010

Editor’s note: To ensure that you always get your copy, become a JamaicanEats member or subscriber

Photo by Jeffrey Marshall

www.jamaicaneats.com i august - november 2010 iJamaican eats 7

I bought one of the back issues and usedone of the recipes to make sweet potatopudding. I added a little Grand Marnierto it to give a little more "strength to itsstructure". My Canadian friends and family enjoyed it with some nice sorrel drink atChristmas. By the way, I also make a great BarbecueJerk Chicken (recipe to the right).Tania Mayne-Hernandez,

Port Coquitlam, British Columbia, Canada

Barbecue Jerk Chickenl 8-12 pieces of chicken - wings, legs, thighl 3-4 tablespoons jerk saucel Seasoning salt to sprinkle on chickenl 1 tablespoon mustardl 1 tablespoon maple syrupl Sweet & sticky bbq sauce to coat chickenl 2 stalks escallion l 8-12 cherry tomatoes

1. Season chicken with

mustard, maple syrup,and jerk seasoning.

2. Rub bbq sauce into

the wings.

3. Let marinate for a

few hours or overnight.

4. Preheat oven to 400 de-

gree F. Bake chicken for35-45 minutes.garnish with tomatoes and escallion.

Instead of crying out for Mercy, use the

amount of jerk sauce you can handle. Mi

Canadian friends like when a give dem

Mango Chutney to help handle di peppa!

What a boonoonoonusmagazine unu mek!!!

Making Solomon gundy

Contributed photo

I love cooking and have usedJamaicanEats to make quite a few

dishes. For example, I can no longerfind Solomon Gundy in the stores soI used your recipe (Winter 2007,recipe below) to make my own. The truth is, it’s awesome the wayway the magazine is put together. Itbrings back home for people like uswho left Jamaica long ago. Food isimportant to keep the culture goingand everytime I look at JamaicanEats Iget hungry.

Paul Davidson, Loxahatchee, FL

P.S. This evening for dinner I’mgoing to roast breadfruit (brought bya friend visiting from Jamaica) withackee and saltfish (cod) and JohnnyCakes (fried dumplings/bakes).

Solomon Gundyl 1 pound smoked herring l ½ cup vinegar l 1 large onion, choppedl 1 scotch bonnet pepper (deseeded) orother hot pepperl 1 stalk escallion l ½ teaspoon thyme l 4 tablespoons vegetable oil l 1 teaspoon sugar

1. Boil smoked herring for about 15 minutes

to remove some of the salt. Or soak in coldwater for an hour.

2. Discard the water, remove bones from

the herring, flake the flesh and set aside.

3.Warm the vinegar and sugar on a low fire,

stirring occasionally to dissolve the sugar. Donot allow it to boil.

4. Puree onion, pepper, escallion, and thyme

in oil for about a minute.

5. add the fish and vinegar solution to the

seasoning and puree for another minute.Variation: add pickled oysters or anchovies to the mix.

Crackers topped with Solomon gundy (redherring fish paste) and green olives.

for soggypuddingrecipe

To get a thicker consistency, combinewhite sweet potato (which is drier)and the orange (moister) sweet potato.Victoria Roy Johnson, Richmond, B.C.

Readers’ Tips

Caroline Brown’s sweet potato pudding (Winter 2007)was very tasty but ended upbeing soggy. I suggest using less waterthan called for in the recipeto ensure a thicker consis-tency. I believe the moisturecontent of sweet potato (yam)is much higher in NorthAmerica than in Jamaica. Besides using less water, Iadded a bit of flour. Myneighbour, Mavis Nembhard,did this too and her puddingcame out perfect.Tania Mayne-Hernandez

Photo by Carlington Wilmot


Editor-in-Chief: grace Cameron

Circulation Manager: LaToya Byfield

Design: Sweet Potato Press

Writers: grace Cameron, Wandeka

gayle, Joan andrea Hutchinson,

Rosemary Parkinson, LaToya West

Photographers: Jeffrey Marshall,

Rosemary Parkinson, Dwight Taylor,

Jenn Walton

Proofreader: LaToya Byfield

CONTACT USgrace Cameron

Tel: 876.655.0879

vOIP: 604.484.4260; 305.515.8430;

0203 318 4699

E-mail: [email protected];

[email protected]

Mailing address: P.O. Box 1875

kingston 8, Jamaica, W.I.

Marketing/Sales:

20Twenty Strategies Consulting,

Suite #6. Sun village Complex, 6 north

Race Course Road, Mandeville, P.O.,

Manchester, Jamaica

Tel: 876-962-7702; Fax 876-961-8675 ;

E-mail: [email protected]

CANADA

Sharlie Johnson, Canada, 647.274.2987

[email protected]

OR 604.484.4260

UNITED STATESLaToya Byfield, new York

646.528.5531, [email protected]

Chris Daley, Washington DC/Maryland

866.896.1816, [email protected]

Doreen Salmon, atlanta, 770.374.9488

EUROPE

Telephone: 0203 318 4699

JamaicanEats magazine is distributed to

members and subscribes in Canada, the

U.S. , U.k., Europe, Jamaica, the Caribbean,

South america, australia, new Zealand,

Japan and some african countries.

To ensure that you get your copy, sign up and

become a member or subscribe today. Retail

sales are limited to a few outlets.

JamaicanEats magazine is published by Sweet Potato Press

JamaicanEats

I posted on Negril.com that I had received my new copy (November 2009-March 2010). Over 500 people viewed themessage within days. Many said theywere going to, or had just subscribed. Ienjoy it so much, so why not share itwith others?http://jsprat.wordpress.com/2010/01/23/jamaican-pepper-pot-soup/ I made the Pepper Pot Soup the day Igot my magazine. I tweaked it a bit to

my liking and my husband loved it. A few months ago I started a food blogand I have been cooking many wonder-ful Caribbean and Jamaican dishes. I think the magazine will inspire manymore to try Caribbean recipes and Iwant to thank you for your hard work.The issues are top notch and I, for one,thoroughly enjoy them.Jackie Fraser-Dunfield

Moncton, New Brunswick, Canada

Jackie’s Pepper

Pot Soupl 1 pound beef short ribsl 1 large onionl 1 head of garlicl 1 teaspoon thyme or 2 freshthyme sprigsl 1 tablespoon pimento (allspice)l 1 teaspoon rosemaryl 2 tablespoons oill 8 cups waterl 1 whole hot pepperl 1 large carrot

l 1 large tomato, dicedl 2 cups sliced okral 1 cup coconut creaml 8-12 whole large shrimpsl Salt and pepper to taste(Frank Chin Loy’s recipe called

for 1/2 cup sliced cho cho

(chayote ); 2 cups dasheen (taro

); 3 cups callaloo)

I substituted and added:l 1 medium zucchini l 1 potatol 1 large sweet potato (yam )l 1/2 cup spinachl 2 beef Oxo cubes

l Few dashes browning sauce

1. Place oil in pot and saute

onions, garlic thyme and pimento for 5 minutes.

2. add water and ribs. Boil

slowly for 1 hour or untiltender.

3. Separate meat from the

bone and cut into smallerbite-sized pieces.

4.Cut up and add vegetables,

coconut cream, salt, pepper.Simmer with meat until vegetables are tender.

Feeling the Pepper Pot Soup in Eastern Canada

Your Passport to Caribbean Eating Around the World.

MyTake onPepper

Pot

yourletters

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We are located at: 225 collingwood streetnelson 7010 -new Zealand

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our mouthwatering 4-in-1 deal will have customers coming & returningto your doorstep. check out the details @ www.jamaicaneats.com, orcall 876.655.0879; 604.484.4260; 305.515.8430; 0203 318 4699

Photo by Cookie kinkead for nyam Jamaica

The most winning participant inthe 47-year history of the Jamaica Cultural Development Commission’s (JCDC) culinarycompetition with 80 medals,grandma Mabel Smith died inMarch. She was 86.

grandmastories

Gwww.jamaicaneats.com i august - november 2010 iJamaican eats 13

randma

just call me

*

gRanDMaS *Yes, we know grandpas are impor-tant too, but in the Caribbean, aselsewhere, grandmothers hold aspecial place in our hearts and delicious dishes in our thoughts. The death of Jamaica’s culinaryQueen, grandma Mabel Smith,earlier this year got us thinkingabout grandmas and ol’ time food.Flip the pages for more

In the coolness of the Blue and John Crow Mountains above the Jamaican capital ofkingston, as the sun played hide and seek one March Sunday in 2004, I met 80-year-oldMabel Smith. While music blasted below, a steady stream of people trekked up to herhillside perch. Many came for her sweet potato pudd’n, but stayed for the wine. >>WRITTEN BY GRACE CAMERON

she turned bread into

wine and made liqueurs

that left you swooning


Latocia said...

It's crazy how leaving Jamaica has made me somuch more appreciative ofour rich, creative and tastyJamaican foods. Jamaicanfoods stand out anywhere.For me, it's the roastbreadfruit with some salt-fish run-dung and lemon-ade to wash it down.Hmmm.

El Pablo said...

I also remember the tasteof the stuff we did whenwe cooked what we couldas kids like – roasted

sweet potatoes, roastedwhatever we caught fromthe river or sea duringsummer...'Rowing boat" asit were. Bird soup, roastbreadfruit with butter byLyssons beach (in the east-ern parish of St. Thomas,Jamaica). gREaaaT!

Princessafri said...

For me, even though I amfollowing the same recipeas back home, for somereason the food does nottaste the same as I amused to in Jamaica. got tolove the rice and peas and

chicken and roast bread-fruit from my grandma. another thing I love dearlyis turn cornmeal withgungo (pigeon) peas andbrown stew fish. Love mychicken back too.

Monique said...

I miss my mom’s bakingand juices made fromscratch every Sunday andall the fresh fruits. We hadabundant juicy mangoes andguavas. You went to yourbackyard and made dinnerfrom what you collected Iabsolutely miss that.

They called her Gran or Miss

Mamas. Growing up in the

Tower Hill area of Kingston,

Jamaica, some 40 years ago, she

was my neighbour across the road

and whenever she made cornmeal

porridge she had to save mine.

Made with freshly grated coconut

milk, it was divine! I get goose

bumps now even thinking about it.- Paulette Shorter, Bronx, N.Y.

Make your ownvegetable stockl Cut onions, carrots and

celery cut in chunks.

ladd a bouquet garni of

about 3 sprigs of thyme,

rosemary also pimento.

l Bring the ingredients to a

boil in 8 cups of water, sim-

mer 20 to 30 minutes.

ladd salt to taste and a cup

of white wine and simmer for

20 minutes more.

l Strain, discarding solids.

Photo by Jenn Walton www.digiwerxstudio.com

Photo by Rosemary Parkinson

Hands down, Grandma Johnson’s stew peas and rice was my favourite thing, growing up.

Every birthday I salivated all day long, eagerly anticipating the steaming plate of stew peas -

plump red (kidney) beans, pig’s tail and spinners (tiny dumplings) that would be waiting for

me at dinner time. Ahhh, heaven!- Editor grace Cameron

REaDER TIPSTEW PEAS

Make it meatlessand flavourful. Skipthe meat and usevegetable stock instead of water,to cook the peas, advises CyntiaMorgan, Baltimore,Maryland. Add acouple of potatoesand carrots.

The stock may be frozen and used as needed. A better idea is to use a Tupper-ware ice tray. And, of course, you mustn't forget the coconut milk, adds Morgan apersonal chef who attended Valencia College in Florida and worked at Fulton'sCrab House at Pleasure Island at Disney. “I try to introduce some of my clients to some Jamaican fare. I loved the waymy mom fixed tripe with the lima beans (which I don't prepare) and stew peas,

which I prepare all the time.

continued from page 15...readers on the JamaicanEats blog talk about their grandmothers’ cooking


Stew Peas• 2 cups dried red peas(kidney beans) • 1/2 pound salted beef •1 pound pig’s tail• 1 scotch bonnet pepper • 2 stalks escallion • 3 sprigs fresh thyme • 2 cups coconut milk• 6 pimento (all spice)grains • 3 cloves garlic • Salt and pepper to taste • Spinners (see below)

1. Soak peas in cold

water overnight. Drain,and rinse. Or boil peasuntil tender, about 1 1/2hours.

2. Boil and drain salt beef

two times, to make it lesssalty.

3. Place peas, meat and

garlic in one pot, boil foranother 1/2 hour.

4. add coconut milk,

spinners and seasoning.Cook for another hour.

5. Season to taste.

6..Thicken the stew with

with a mixture of 3 table-spoons flour and 1/4 cupwater. Strain the mixtureinto the stew.

7. Boil until the stew

thickens. Serve with fluffywhite rice.

Spinners• 1 cup flour • 1/2 teaspoon salt • Enough water to make a dough.

1. Place flour and salt in a

bowl.

2. Mix together the flour

and the water to make astiff dough.

3. Pinch off pieces of the

dough and roll into inch-long strips.

4. add the spinners dur-ing the last 20 minutes orso of cooking.

Note: Spinners are acrowd favourite so feelfree to make more. add scotch bonnet pep-per if you like it hot.

Whenever I hear the really old tunes playing on the radio itbrings back memories of Sunday afternoons in Christiana (inthe hills of the parish of Manchester), says Lawrence Robinson. A retired farm management consultant who now lives in theJamaican capital of Kingston, Robinson recalls his grand-mother’s Fou Fou, made with yam, cooked and pounded with amortar. They usually added butter and would serve it with salt-fish (cod) if we had guests. “I remember after eating I would play U.S. records on mygrandmother’s wind up grammaphone while the elders chatted.” The records were bought by his aunts during their travels toplaces like Costa Rica and Cuba, he adds. Robinson reckons that the lack of quality family time like thisis behind most of the problems in Jamaican society today. “It’snot about money, it’s about good socialisation (that calms thenerves) and food plays a part in that socialisation.”

I remember mygrandmother’sFou Fou andSunday after-noons with thewindupgrammaphonein Christiana,Manchester.-Lawrence Robinson

Fou Fou and the good ol’ days

Photo by Rosemary Parkinson

Cou Cou (as Fou Fou is called in Barbados) with black belly sheep. Fou Fou, which has its origin in Western africais still a popular dish in many Caribbean countries where it goes by various names. Turn the page for more.

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a copy of the luscious and much

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of Joan Andrea Hutchinson’s

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educator) new book, Kin Teeth

Kibba Heart Bun. Log on to

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JamaicanEats magazine Aug-Nov 2010 preview

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