Italy Size Chart Final Doc
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Transcript of Italy Size Chart Final Doc
SIZING SYSTEM OF ITALY
ITALY- FASHION INITIATION :
Submitted by:
Raisa Gupta (15)
Dipali Modi (07)
Ziaul Hoda (11)
Renu Ranjita Lugun (19)
Rashmi Kumari (18)
• Fashion in Italy started to become the most fashionable in Europe since the 11th century.
• Italy produced robes, jewellery, textiles, shoes, fabrics, ornaments and elaborate dresses which were custom- made and targeted towards the royalty.
• Royalty, at the top of both the social and economic ladders, set trends while other members of the aristocracy followed their example to gain approval.
• Italian fashion reached its peak during the Renaissance.
• As Italy is widely recognized as the cradle and birthplace of the Renaissance, art, music, education, finance and philosophy flourished, and along with it, Italian fashion designs became immensely popular.
• Florence was Italy's fashion capital in the 50s and 60s.
TIME PERIOD PRIOR TO THE INDUSTRIAL DEVELOPMENT :
• Prior to industrial developments in Italy, which occurred only after the war, 90% of Italians were rurally employed.
• The elite acquired their luxury products from France, and Italian goods were considered “poor” during that phase.
• Most higher fashion was reserved for men, as women did not have as many black tie events to dress for.
• At the time, the mass fashion industry in Italy was largely non-existent. With the high-end consumers buying their fashions from Paris, or having copies made by local tailors, some industrialists noticed a gap in the market supply, which called for functional, durable, high quality garments.
• This was a major reason for an Italian company Gruppo Finaziario Tessile (GFT) to take the first initiative to measure a wide sample of the Italian population to create national sizing system.
A NEED FOR STANDARDISATION OWING TO THE WAR :
• The industrial basis of the business began in World War I and continued into the 1970s.
• Initially, the pressure of war demands led to clothing production becoming more standardized.
• The military factories that produced fabrics increasingly coordinated their operations with the activities of the women temporarily engaged in sewing uniforms and knitting soldiers’ underwear in their own homes.
• The arrival of fascism and its imposition of autarchic policies during the interwar years accelerated the production of artificial and synthetic materials and spurred attempts to manufacture ready-made clothing.
• During the 1950s and 1960s, large firms that specialized in the production and distribution of men’s clothing—women still preferred custom-made garments—emerged and Italy became transformed into an industrialized country.
• In order to accomplish the task of modernizing production and acquiring technological knowledge, Italy looked to the United States as a model.
• However, Italian firms adopted their own system of sizing to accommodate their distinctive physical features, which were different from those of Americans.
Gruppo Finanziario Tessile (GFT) :
• The morphological structure of the Italian population differed from the American population.
• Thus, in the early 1950’s GFT literally measured more than 25,000 Italians.
• This allowed FACIS ( Fabbrica Abiti Confezionati in Serie) to effectivel construct a size chart able to dress the whole nation for the first time with non- tailored garments.
• There were 37 such charts made initially.
• These standards have been followed ever since with regards to mass production.
• Though now doubts and questions are being raised in the context of this system.
THE NEED OF THE HOUR :
• In 1951, an Italian importer for American goods, named Gian Battista Giorgini, realized the US market was also ready for something new and different from that offered by France.
• They had mass-produced garments, the elite could buy haute couture from Paris, and yet there was nothing in between.
• Giorgini used his US contacts for market research and development, and began to organize Italian designers, whom he encouraged to abandon their French knock-offs and pursue an affordable Italian style.
• With new production technologies from the States being imported into Italy as part of the recovery plan, and a large skilled workforce of women to operate the machinery, GFT and other Italian manufacturing firms such as Marzotto and Lebole developed the production end of the industry.
• As many of top producers had a background in men’s tailoring, there was still a strong industrial concentration in menswear, but the mass-production capabilities in the States found their way into Italian womens wear production soon enough.
PROBLEMS DUE TO THE TRADITIONAL APPROACH :
• Mail-order purchasing requires accurate methods for predicting the best-fitting size.
• For many types of garments, size cannot be described adequately by just a single number, because two independent body dimensions have to match for a good fit, sometimes even three. (This is a problem in sizing jeans.)
• Scalar ad-hoc sizes based on 1950’s anthropometric studies are no longer adequate, as changes in nutrition and life styles have shifted the distribution of body dimensions.
Conditions leading to change in body type and dimensions:
A. improved living conditions - better nutrition during infancy and childhood B. physical activity - there are two extreme attitudes:
static model of life active model of life
C. better medical care - level of development of medicine access to specialized research equipment, accurate and quick diagnosis and proper conduct of the rehabilitation and action on prevention of disease, strongly improved in comparison to the mid-twentieth.
In view of continuous volatility dimensional characteristics of the human, existing tables of sizes have become unavailable and require significant correction or complete change.
ITALIAN SIZE CHARTS :
Women’s Clothing sizes:XXS XS S M L XL XXL XXXL
Italy 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54
Women’s Bra sizes :Italy 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 n/a n/a
Misses’ Chart :Italy 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50
Women’s Hosiery:
Italy I II III IV
Women's bra sizes:
Men – Clothing:Nation Size
XS S M L XL XXLItaly 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58
Men - Shirt (neck size):
Men – Clothing:Country XXS XS S M L XL XXL XXXL
Italy Trousers Waist (cm) 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58
Italy Neck for Shirt (cm) 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46
Women’s Large Sizes : Italy 52 54 56
Italy 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 n/a n/a
Children’s Sizes:
Italy 35 40 45 50 55 60 65 70 75 80 85 90 95 100
Nation SizeItaly 38 39 40 41 42 43 44
Clothing size converter
In view of the widespread globalization, including the garment industry there is a need to find a relationship between different systems of garment sizes, used in various countries around the world. Only a properly defined and the corresponding correlation makes possibly to commercial transactions.
EN 13402- Size designation for clothing :
Men’s Sizes:Suits, Overcoats, Sweaters and Pajamas
Italy 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58Men’s Shirts:
Italy 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43
EN 13402 is a European standard for labelling clothes sizes. It is based on body dimensions, measured in centimetres. It replaces many older national dress-size systems in popular use before the year 2007. Acceptance of this form of standardization varies from country to country. For example, the Spanish Ministry of Health and Consumer Affairs has commissioned a study to categorise female body types with a view to harmonising Spanish clothing sizes with EN-13402. Few other countries are known to have followed suit.
There are three approaches for size-labelling of clothes:
body dimensions- The product label states for which range of body dimensions the product was designed. (Example: bike helmet labelled "head girth: 56–60 cm", shoe labelled "foot length: 28 cm")
product dimensions - The label states characteristic measures of the product. (Example: jeans labelled with their inner-leg length in centimetres or inches: i.e., not the—several centimetres longer—inner leg length of the intended wearer).
ad-hoc size- The label provides a size number or code with no obvious relationship to any measurement. (Example: Size 12, XL)
Traditionally, clothes have been labelled using many different ad-hoc size systems. This approach has led to a number of problems:
Country-specific or even vendor-specific labels create additional costs.
Ad-hoc sizes have changed with time, often due to "vanity labelling", an inflation in body dimensions associated with a size, to avoid confronting aging customers with uncomfortable anthropometric truths.
Mail-order purchasing requires accurate methods for predicting the best-fitting size.
For many types of garments, size cannot be described adequately by just a single number, because two independent body dimensions have to match for a good fit, sometimes even three. (This is a problem in sizing jeans.)
Scalar ad-hoc sizes based on 1950s anthropometric studies are no longer adequate, as changes in nutrition and life styles have shifted the distribution of body dimensions.
Therefore, the European standards committee CEN/TC 248/WG 10 started in 1996 the process of designing a new modern system of labelling clothes sizes, resulting in the standard EN 13402 "Size designation of clothes".
It is based on:
body-dimensions the metric system (SI) data from new anthropometric studies of the European
population performed in the late 1990s similar existing international standards (ISO 3635, etc.)
EN 13402-1: Terms, definitions and body measurement procedure
The first part of the standard defines the list of body dimensions to be used for designating clothes sizes, together with an anatomical explanation and measurement guidelines:
head girth - maximum horizontal girth (circumference) of the head measured above the ears
neck girth- girth of the neck measured with the tape measure passed 2 cm below the Adam's apple and at the level of the 7th cervical vertebra
chest girth -maximum horizontal girth measured during normal breathing with the subject standing erect and the tape-measure passed over the shoulder blades (scapulae), under the armpits (axillae), and across the chest.
bust girth -maximum horizontal girth measured during normal breathing with the subject standing erect and the tape-measure passed horizontally, under the armpits (axillae), and across the bust prominence (preferably measured with moderate tension over a brassiere that shall not deform the breast in an unnatural way and shall not displace its volume)
underbust girth -horizontal girth of the body measured just below the breasts
waist girth - girth of the natural waistline between the top of the hip bones (iliac crests) and the lower ribs, measured with the subject breathing normally and standing erect with the abdomen relaxed
hip girth -horizontal girth measured round the buttocks at the level of maximum circumference.
height -vertical distance between the crown of the head and the soles of the feet, measured with the subject standing erect without shoes and with the feet together (for infants not yet able to stand upright: length of the body measured in a straight line from the crown of the head to the soles of the feet)
inside leg length - distance between the crotch and the soles of the feet, measured in a straight vertical line with the subject erect, feet slightly apart, and the weight of the body equally distributed on both legs
arm length -distance, measured using the tape-measure, from the armscye/shoulder line intersection (acromion), over the elbow, to the far end of the prominent wrist bone (ulna), with the subject's right fist clenched and placed on the hip, and with the arm bent at 90°
hand girth -maximum girth measured over the knuckles (metacarpals) of the open right hand, fingers together and thumb excluded
foot length- horizontal distance between perpendiculars in contact with the end of the most prominent toe and the most prominent part of the heel, measured with the subject standing barefoot and the weight of the body equally distributed on both feet
body mass - measured with a suitable balance in kilograms
These dimensions are meant to be measured preferably without or as few as possible clothes.
All body dimensions are measured in centimeters, except for the body mass.
The standard also defines a pictogram that can be used in language-neutral labels to indicate one or several of the above body dimensions.
EN 13402-2: Primary and secondary dimensions
The second part of the standard defines for each type of garment one "primary dimension". This is the body measure according to which the product must be labelled.
For some types of garment, a single measure may not be sufficient to select the right product. In these cases, one or two "secondary dimensions" can be added to the label.
The following table shows the primary and secondary dimensions listed in the standard. Secondary dimensions are shown in parenthesis.
Garment Men Women Boys Girls
Jacketschest girth(height, waist girth)
bust girth(height, hip girth)
height(chest girth)
height(bust girth)
Suits chest girth, waist girth
bust girth(height, hip
height(chest girth)
height(bust girth)
(height, inside leg length)
girth)
Overcoatschest girth(height)
bust girth(height)
height(chest girth)
height(bust girth)
Trousers/shorts
waist girth(height, inside leg length)
waist girth(height, hip girth, inside leg length)
height(waist girth)
height(waist girth)
Skirts —waist girth(height, hip girth)
—height(waist girth)
Dresses —
bust girth(height, hip girth, waist girth)
—height(bust girth)
Knits: cardigans, sweaters, T-shirts
chest girth(height)
bust girth(height)
height(chest girth)
height(bust girth)
Shirtsneck girth(height, arm length)
—height(neck girth)
—
Blouses —bust girth(height)
—height(bust girth)
Underpantswaist girth(height)
waist girth(height, hip girth)
height(waist girth)
height(waist girth)
Vestchest girth(height)
bust girth(height)
height(chest girth)
height(bust girth)
PyjamasLadies'
nightdresses
chest girth(height, waist girth)
bust girth(height, waist girth, hip girth)
height(chest girth)
height(bust girth)
Swim-suits/wear and bodies
waist girth(height, chest girth)
bust girth(height, hip girth, underbust girth)
height(chest girth, waist girth)
height(underbust girth, bust girth)
Bras —
underbust girth, bust girth(cup size)
—
underbust girth, bust girth(cup size)
Corsetry/upper and full body
—
underbust girth, bust girth(height, hip girth, waist girth)
— —
Corsetry/lower body
—waist girth, hip girth(height)
— —
Pantyhose —height(waist girth, weight)
— height
Stockings — foot length
Socks foot length
Gloves hand girth
Headwear head girth
EN 13402–3: Measurements and intervals
The third part of the standard defines preferred numbers of primary and secondary body dimensions.
The product should not be labelled with the average body dimension for which the garment was designed (i.e., not "height: 176 cm."). Instead, the label should show the range of body dimensions from half the step size below to half the step size above the design size (e.g., "height: 172–180 cm.").
For heights, for example, the standard recommends generally to use the following design dimensions, with a step size of 8 cm:
Height
… 160 168 176 184 192 200 …
Range
…156–164
164–172
172–180
180–188
188–196
196–204
…
For trousers, the recommended step size for height is 4 cm:
Height
… 156 160 164 168 172 176 180 184 188 192 196 200 …
Range
…154
–158
158–
162
162–
166
166–
170
170–
174
174–
178
178–
182
182–
186
186–
190
190–
194
194–
198
198–
202…
The standard defines similar tables for other dimensions and garments, only some of which are shown here.
Men:
The standard sizes and ranges for chest and waist girth are defined in steps of 4 cm:
Men’s standard sizes for drop = −12 cm
Chest
girth84 88 92 96
100
104 108 112 116 120 126 132 138 144
Range
82–
86
86–90
90–94
94–98
98–102
102–
106
106–
110
110–
114
114–
118
118–
123
123–
129
129–
135
135–
141
141–
147
Waist
girth72 76 80 84 88 92 96 100 104 108 114 120 126 132
Range
70–
74–78
78–82
82–86
86–90
90–94
94–98
98–102
102–
106–
111–
117–
123–
129–
74 106 111 117 123 129 135
drop = waist girth − chest girth.
Example: While manufacturers will typically design clothes for chest girth = 100 cm such that it fits waist girth = 88 cm, they may also want to combine that chest girth with neighboring waist girth step sizes 84 cm or 92 cm, to cover these drop types (−16 cm and −8 cm) as well.
The standard also suggests that neck girth can be associated with chest girth:
Association of neck and chest girth
Neck
girth
37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46.5 48 49.5 51
Range
36.5–37.5
37.5–38.5
38.5–39.5
39.5–40.5
40.5–
41.5
41.5–42.5
42.5–43.5
43.5–44.5
44.5–45.8
45.8–
47.3
47.3–48.8
48.8–
50.3
50.3–
51.1
Chest
girth
88 92 96 100 104 108 112 116 120 126 132 138 144
The standard further suggests that arm length can be associated with height:
Association of arm length and body height
Height 156 160 164 168 172 176 180 184 188 192 196 200
Arm length
60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71
Range59–60
60–61
61–62
62–63
63–64
64–65
65–66
66–67
67–68
68–69
69–70
70–71
Women:
Dress sizes:
The standard sizes and ranges for bust, waist and hip girth are mostly based on a step of 4 cm, for larger sizes 5 cm:
Bust girth
76 80 84 88 92 96100
104
110
116
122
128
134
140
146
152
Range
74–
78
78–
82
82–
86
86–
90
90–
94
94–98
98–102
102–107
107–113
113–119
119–125
125–131
131–137
137–143
143–149
149–
155
Waist
girth
60 64 68 72 76 80 84 88 94100
106
112
118
124
130
136
Range
58–
62
62–
66
66–
70
70–
74
74–
78
78–82
82–86
86–91
91–97
97–103
103–109
109–115
115–121
121–127
127–133
133–
139
Hip girth
84 88 92 96100
104
108
112
117
122
127
132
137
142
147
152
Range
82–
86
86–
90
90–
94
94–
98
98–
102
102–106
106–110
110–115
115–120
120–125
125–130
130–135
135–140
140–145
145–150
150–
155
Bra sizes:
The European standard EN 13402 also defines bra sizes based on the "bust girth" and the "underbust girth". Bras are labeled with the under bust girth (rounded to the nearest multiple of 5 cm), followed by a letter code that indicates the "cup size" defined below, according to this table defined by the standard.
EN 13402–1 pictogram for bra size 70B
The standard sizes for brassiere are based on a step of 5 cm:
Underbust girth
60 65 70 75 80 85 90 95100
105 110 115120 125
Range58–
62
63–
67
68–72
73–
77
78–
82
83–
88
88–92
93–
98
98–102
103–
108
108–
112
113–
118
118–
122
123–
128
The secondary dimension cup size can be expressed in terms of the difference
cup size = bust girth − underbust girth
and can be labelled compactly using a letter code appended to the underbust girth:
Code AA A B C D E F G H J K
Cup size range
10–12
12–14
14–16
16–18
18–20
20–22
22–24
24–26
26–28
28–30
30–32
Example 1: Bra size 70B is suitable for women with underbust girth 68–72 cm and bust girth 84–86 cm.
Example 2: A woman with under bust girth 89 cm and bust girth 108 cm has cup size 19 cm (= 108 cm – 89 cm) or "D". Her underbust girth rounded to the nearest multiple of 5 cm is 90 cm. Therefore, her bra size according to the new standard is 90D.
Letter codes:
For clothes where a larger step size is sufficient, the standard also defines a letter code. This code represents the bust girth for women and the chest girth for men. The standard does not define such a code for children. Each range combines two adjacent size steps. The ranges could be extended below XXS or above 3XL if necessary.
MeaningCod
eChest girth
(men)Bust girth (women)
extra extra small XXS 70–78 66–74
extra small XS 78–86 74–82
small S 86–94 82–90
medium M 94–102 90–98
large L 102–110 98–106
extra large XL 110–118 107–119
extra extra large XXL 118–129 119–131
extra extra extra large
3XL 129–141 131–143
4XL 141–154 143–155
5XL 154–166 155–167
EN 13402-4: Coding system
The fourth part of the standard is still under review. It will define a compact coding system for clothes sizes. This was
originally intended primarily for industry use in databases and as a part of stock-keeping identifiers and catalogue ordering numbers, but later users have also expressed a desire to use compact codes for customer communication. Writing out all the centimetre figures of all the primary and secondary measures from EN 13402-2 can – in some cases – require up to 12 digits. The full list of centimetre figures on the pictogram contains a lot of redundancy and the same information can be squeezed into fewer graphemes with lookup tables. EN 13402-4 will define such tables.
An earlier draft of this part of the standard attempted to list all in-use combinations of EN 13402-3 measures and assigned a short 2- or 3-digit code to each.Some of the industry representatives involved in the standardization process considered this approach too restrictive. Others argued that the primary dimension in centimetres should be a prominent part of the code. Therefore this proposal, originally expected to be adopted in 2005, was rejected.
Since then, several new proposals have been presented to the CEN working group. One of these, tabled by the European Association of National Organisations of Textile Traders (AEDT), proposes a 5-character alphanumeric code, consisting of the 3-digit centimetre figure of the primary body dimension, followed by one or two letters that code a secondary dimension, somewhat like the system already defined for bra sizes. For example, an item designed for:
bust girth: 100 cm (100) hip girth: 104 cm (B) height: 176 cm (G)
would bear (in addition to the explanatory pictogram) the compact size code "100BG". This proposal was agreed upon in a March 2006 meeting in Florence and a final draft was produced by AEDT on 6 June 2006.
Latest Development :
• Leading Italian apparel companies met to discuss the new size designation of clothes that will be soon into force.
• TREVISO (ITALY) - Feb 2011. The UNI, Italian organization for standardization, CAD Modelling Ergonomics and the leading Italian clothing companies discussed on the new labeling system of clothing (prEN 13402-4) to define the structure.
• With the support of the leading apparel and industrial units, the Italian standardization body, is setting up the Italian position on the new scheme that will harmonize the different codes available today in the European countries.
• Pressure is being put by the ISO TC 133, the international standardization body for the identification of a unique European code. In the absence of an agreed system, ISO will impose a U.S. & China one, thus forcing Europe to accept it passively.
• The next meeting of CEN in April will create an additional table discussion for the final decision.