Disclosure to Promote the Right To Information

Whereas the Parliament of India has set out to provide a practical regime of right to information for citizens to secure access to information under the control of public authorities, in order to promote transparency and accountability in the working of every public authority, and whereas the attached publication of the Bureau of Indian Standards is of particular interest to the public, particularly disadvantaged communities and those engaged in the pursuit of education and knowledge, the attached public safety standard is made available to promote the timely dissemination of this information in an accurate manner to the public.

इंटरनेट मानक

“!ान $ एक न' भारत का +नम-ण”Satyanarayan Gangaram Pitroda

“Invent a New India Using Knowledge”

“प0रा1 को छोड न' 5 तरफ”Jawaharlal Nehru

“Step Out From the Old to the New”

“जान1 का अ+धकार, जी1 का अ+धकार”Mazdoor Kisan Shakti Sangathan

“The Right to Information, The Right to Live”

“!ान एक ऐसा खजाना > जो कभी च0राया नहB जा सकता है”Bhartṛhari—Nītiśatakam

“Knowledge is such a treasure which cannot be stolen”

“Invent a New India Using Knowledge”

है”ह”ह

IS 1093 (1981): Handloom Cotton Madras Handkerchiefs [TXD8: Handloom and Khadi]

IS : w!M - 1881

Indian Standard SPECIFKATTON FOR

HANDLOOM COTTON MADRAS HA’NDKERCHIEFS

( First Revision )

Harrdlodm and Khadi Sectional Committee, TDC 13

Chaktnan Rebresenting

DEVELOPMENT COMMISSIONER FOR Development Commissioner for Handlooms, HANDLOOMS New Delhi

Vice-Chairman

DIRECTOR OB HANDLOOMS AND Directorate of Handlooms and Textiles, Govem- TEXTILES ment of Tamil Nadu, Madras

Members

JOINT DIRECTOR OF HANDLOOMS AND TEXTILES ( Alternate to Director of Handlooms & Textiles)

SHRI P. C. AQARWAL Ministry of Defence ( R&D ) SHRI K. NAQARAJAN ( Alternate )

SHRI A. T. BASAK Directorate General of Supplies & Disposals, ( Inspection Wing ), New Delhi

&tar A. R. HALD& ( Atterffute ) SHRI PARITOSH DAS Directorate ,of Industries, Government of West

Bengal, Calcutta SHRI P. K. DAS ( Alternate)

SERI L. DESI GOWDA Development Commissioner of Handlooms, New Delhi

SRRI B. B. GUPTA Government of Uttar Pradesh SHRI G. D. BANERJEE (Alternate)

SFJRI T. MARADEVAN Handloom Export Promotion Council, Madras SHRI K. M~~IVANA~ Directorate of Industries, Government OF

Haryana, Chandigarh SHRI C. R. YADAV (Alternate)

SERI A. P. NAN~IAR Kerala State Handloom Development Corporation Ltd, Cannanore

SHRI G. S. NAIR ( Alternart)

( Confinucd on page 2 )

6 Capyright 1981 INDIAN STANDARDS INSTITUTION

This publication is protected under the Indian Copyright Act (XIV of 1957) and reproduction in whole or in part by any means except with written permission of the

publisher shall be deemed to be an infringement of copyright under the said Act.

IS : 1093 - 1981

( Continuedfrom page 1 )

Members Representing

SHRI R. S. PRAYAO Development Commissioner for Handlooms, New Delhi

SBRI M. G. RAJAN Textiles Committee, Bombay SRRI A. S. RAMA RAO ( Alternate)

SITI~I S. RANQARAJAN Handicrafts and Handlooms Export Corporation of India Ltd, Madras

SHRI T. RANGASWAMY The Southern India Mills’ Association, Coimbatore

REGIONAL MANAGER Andhra Pradesh State Handloom Weavers’ Co- operative Society Ltd, Vijayawada

REPESENTATIVE Khadi and Village Industries Commission, Bombay SECRETAXY All India Handloom Fabrics Marketing

Co-operative Society Ltd, Bombay SHRI A. RAJAMANI ( Alternate )

SEJU_IX;~~~ECUTIVE & SPECIAL The Tamil Nadu Handloom Weavers’ Co-operative Society Ltd, Madras

SENIOR MANAGER (PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT ) ( Alternate)

SHRI K. VIDYA SAGAR Andhra Pradesh State Textile Development Corporation Ltd, Hyderabad

SHRI D. R. YADAV Ministry of Defence (DGI) SHRI K. R. GARQ ( Alternate )

SHRI S. M. CHAKRABOHTY, Director General, IS1 ( Ex-oflcio Member ) Director (Tex)

Secretary SHRI S. BANERJI

Deputy Director (Tex), IS1

Handloom and Khadi Cotton Cloth Subcommittee, TDC 13 : 1

Convener

PRINCIPAL, INDIAN INSTITUTE OF Development Commissioner for Handlooms, HANDLOOM TECHNOLOGY, New Delhi VARANASI

Members

SHRI A. T. BASAR Directorate General of Supplies & Disposals ( Inspection Wing), New Delhi

SHRI A. R. HALDAR ( Alternate ) SHRI L. DESI GOWDA Development Commissioner for Handlooms,

New Delhi SHRI J. S. GREWAL Directorate of Industries, Government of Punjab,

Chandigarh SERI MOHINDER SINOE ( Alternate )

SHRI R. B. GUPTA Government of Uttar Pradesh SHRI G. D. BANERJEE ( Alternate )

( Continued on page 13 )

2

IS : 1093 - 1981

Indian Standard SPECIFICATION FOR

HANDLOOM COTTON MADRAS HANDKERCHIEFS

( First Revision )

0. FOREWORD

0.1 This Indian Standard ( First Revision) was adopted by the Indian Standards Institution on 9 November 1981, after the draft finalized by the Handloom and Khadi Sectional Committee had been approved by the Textile Division Council.

0.2 This standard, which was first published in 1957, has been taken up for revision in order to make it up-to-date. Important changes carried out in the standard are:

a) deletion of breaking strength values, since the standard recom- mends the use of yarn conforming to IS : 171-1973*; and

b) inclusion of inspection marking and packing clauses.

0.3 Standards of Weights and Measures Act, 1976 stipulates the use of International System of Units in the country; in order to familiarize the industry with this system, the recommended SI units for use in the textile industry are given in Appendix A.

0.4 For the purpose of deciding whether a particular requirement of this standard is complied with, the final value, observed or calculated, express- ing the result of a test or analysis, shall be rounded off in accordance with IS : 2-1960-t. The number of significant places retained in the rounded off value should be the same as that of the specified value in this standard.

1. SCOPE

1.1 This standard prescribes the constructional particulars and other requirements of four varieties of handloom cotton Madras handkerchiefs.

*Specification for grey cotton yarn ( second revision ). tRules for rounding off numerical values ( reuised ).

3

IS : 1093 - l!m

1.2 This standard does not specify the general appearance, feel, finish, shade, etc, of the cloth ( see also 3.3 ).

2. MANUFACTURE

2.1 Yarn - The cotton yarn used in the manufacture of cloth shall be satisfactory in evenness and reasonably free from neps and spinning defects. The yarn shall conform to Grade ‘C’ of IS : 171-1973*.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 The constructional particulars of the cloth shall conform to those given in Table 1.

3.2 The colour fastness ratings and other requirements of the cloth shall conform to those given in Table 2.

3.3 If, in order to illustrate or specify the indeterminable character- istics, such as, general appearance, lustre, feel and shade of the cloth, a sample has been agreed upon and sealed, the supply shall be in conformity with the sample in such respects.

3.3.1 The custody of the sealed sample shall be a matter of prior agreement between the buyer and the seller.

4. INSPECTION

4.1 The cloth when visually inspected shall be reasonably free from the following defects:

a) More than two adjacent ends running parallel, broken or missing and extending beyond 20 cm;

b) Weft crack or more than two missing picks across the width of the material;

c) Prominently noticeable weft bar due to the difference in raw material, count, twist, lustre; etc.

d) Noticeable selvedge defects;

e) Noticeable warp or weft float in the body;

f) Noticeable oil or other stains;

g) Noticeable hole, cut or tear of up to 3 mm size;

h) Smash rupturing the texture of the fabric;

*Specification for grey cotton yarn (sscondrevision ),

IS : 1093 - 1981

j ) Undressed snarls noticeable throughout the piece;

k) Conspicuous gout due to foreign matter, usually lint or waste woven;

m) Conspicuous broken pattern; and

n) Any other flaw which would mar the appearance or affect the serviceability and/or durability of the cloth.

4.1.1 A reference may be made to IS : 4125-1967* for details of these defects.

5. MARKING

5.1 The cloth shall be suitably marked or labelled with the following information:

a) Name of the material and variety number; b) Manufacturer’s name, initials or trade-mark; c) Length and width of the cloth; and d) Count of warp and weft yarn.

5.1.1 The cloth may also be marked with the IS1 Certification Mark. NOI.E - The use of the IS1 Certification Mark is governed by the provisions of

the Indian Standards Institution (Certification Marks) Act and the Rules and Regulations made thereunder. The IS1 Mark on products covered by an Indian Standard conveys the assurance that they have been produced to comply with the requirements of that standard under a well-defined system of inspection, testing and quality control which is devised and supervised by IS1 and operated by the producer. IS1 marked products are also continuously checked by ISI for conformity to that standard as a further safeguard. Details of conditions under which a licence for the use of the ISI Certification Mark may be granted to manufacturers or processors, may be obtained from thr Indian Standards Institution.

6. PACKING

6.1 Unless otherwise agreed upon by the buyer and the seller, the cloth shall preferably be packed in bales or cases in conformity with the procedure laid down in IS : 1347-19727 or IS : 293-19805.

7. SAMPLING

7.1 Lot - The quantity of handloom cotton Madras handkerchiefs of the same variety, width and colour delivered to a buyer at a time shall constitute a lot.

*Glossary of terms pertaining to defects in fabrics. tCode for inland packaging of cotton cloth and yarn (&t revision ). $Codt> for seaworthy packaging of cotton cloth and yarn ( third revision ).

5

i; TABLE 1 CONSTRUCTIONAL PARTICULARS OF HANDLOOM COTTON MADRAS HANDKERCHIEFS **

( czause 3.1 ) z

If:

VARIETY COUNT OF YARN (see NOTE 1) ENDS/C~ P1cxs/cm LENGTH WIDTH WEAVE ’ No. c------- _-h-------_-_-_~

cotton count Univ;;;l Count z c

Warp

(1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8)

1.

2.

3.

4.

In cm

60s ( 10 tex ) 36s ( 16 tex) 30 34 7 91

60s ( 10 tex ) 36s ( 16 tex ) 32 38 or as or as Plain 60s ( 10 tex) 40s(15tex) 30 40 declared 60s ( 10 tex ) 40s ( 15 tex) 36 44

agreed

m - _~ Tolerance, - - *5 *5 see Note 2 f 2 -

Percent

Method of - Test

- IS: 1963-1981* IS : 1954-196q Visual

NOTE 1 -Count of yarn is given for guidance only.

NOTE 2 - The length shall be not less than the declared or marked value.

*Methods for determination of threads per unit Iength in woven fabrics ( second revision ). tMethods for determioation of length and width of fabric ( first reuisioa )

SL No.

(1)

4

TABLE 2 REQUIREMENTS OF HANDLOOM COTTON MADRAS HANDKERCHIEFS

( Clause 3.2 )

CHARACTERISTIC REQUIREMENT METHOD QB TEST

(2) (3) (4)

Colour fastness to:

a) Light

b) Washing: Test 1

I IS : 2454-1967* 4 or better (see Note)

IS : 687-1966t

ii) Dimensional change, percent, Max 4 IS : 2977-1964x

41 iii) Scouring loss, percent, Max 10 IS : 1383-1977s

( Mild Method)

NOTE - The rating specified is in accordance with IS : 6906-197311, which is the basic document on colour fastness ratings to various agencies.

*Method for determination of colour fastness of textile materials to artificial light (xenon lamp ). tMethod for determination of colour fastness of textile materials to washing: Test 1 (Jirst revision ). IMethod for determination of dimensional changes of woven fabrics ( other than wool ) on soaking in water. $Methods for determination of scouring loss in grey and finished cotton textile materials (first revision ). l]Requirements for colour fastness of handloom cotton textiles.

IS:1093-1981

7.2 To ascertain the conformity of the lot to the requirements of this standard, sample shall be drawn and inspected from each lot separately.

7.3 The number of pieces to be selected at random for inspection shall be in accordance with Table 3.

TABLE 3 SAMPLE SIZE AND PERMISSIBLE NUMBER OF NON-CONFORMING PIECES

LOT SIZE sAMPL.E PERMISSIBLE SUB-SAYPLE PERMISSIBLE SIZE NUMBEROF SIZE NUMBEROF

NON-CONFORM- NON-CONFORM- ING PIECES ING PIEOES

(1) (2) (3) (4) (5)

up to 50 5 0 2 0

51 ,, 150 8 0 3 0

151 ,, 300 13 1 3 0

301 ), 500 20 1 5 0

501 ,) 1000 32 2 8 1

1001 ), 3000 50 3 8 1

3001 and above 80 5 13 2

7.4 Number of Tests and Criteria for Conformity

Characteristics

Visual inspection, ends, picks, length and width

Dimensional change

Colour fastness to washing and scouring loss

Colour fastness to light

.Number of Tests

According to col 2 of Table 3

According to co1 4 of Table 3

-do-

2 for lot size of 500 or less and 3 otherwise

8

Criteria for Conformity

Number of non-conform- ing pieces not to exceed the corresponding number given in co1 3 of Table 3

Number of non-conform- ing pieces not to exceed the corresponding number given in co1 5 of Table 3

All the test specimens meet the corresponding requirements

-do-

IS : 1093 - 1981

APPENDIX A

( Clcru~e 0.3 )

RECOMMENDED SI UNITS FOR TEXTILES

Sl Characteristic NO.

(1) (2)

1. Length

2. Width

SI Unit r------h_---_

Unit Abbreviation

(3) (4)

Millimetre mm Millimetre, mm, cm

centimetre

Metre m

Millimetre Centimetre Millimetre,

centimetre

mm cm mm, cm

3. Thickness Micrometre rcrn ( micron)

Millimetre mm

4. Linear density Tex Millitex Decitex

Kilotex

tex mtex dtex

ktex

5. Diameter Micrometre Irrn ( micron )

Millimetre mm

Application

(5)

Fibres Samples, test

specimens ( as appropriate )

Yarns, ropes, cordage, fabrics

Narrow fabrics Other fabrics Samples, test

specimens ( as appropriate )

Carpets, druggets, DURRIES ( as appropriate )

Delicate fabrics

Other fabrics, carpets, felts

Yarns Fibres Filaments, filament

yarns Slivers, ropes,

cordage

Fibres

Yarns, ropes, cordage

9

IS :1093-1981

Sl Characteristic SI Unit No. T-_-~-__--~

Unit

(1) (2)

6. Circumference Millimetre

7. Threads in fabric

a) Lengthwise Number per centimetre

Number per decimetre

b) Widthwise Number per centimetre

Number per decimetre

8. Warp threads Number per in loom centimetre

9. Stitches * knitted faizc

a) Lengthwise Courses per centimetre

Courses per decimetre

b) Widthwise Wales per centimetre

Wales Per decimetre

10. Stitch length Millimetre

11. Mass per unit Grams per

Abbreviation

(4)

mm

ends/cm

ends/dm

picks/cm

picks/dm

ends/cm

courses/cm

courses/dm

wales/cm

wales/dm

mm

g/m2 area square metre

12. Mass per unit Grams per g/m length metre

IO

Application

(5)

Ropes, cordage

Woven fabrics ( p?ate )

appro-

Reeds

Knitted fabrics ( as appropriate )

Knitted fabrics, made-up items

Fabrics

Fabrics

Sl ChaYucteYi.Ttic .NO.

(1) (2)

13. Twist

IS : 1093 - 1981

SZ Unit _-_----_----,h____-~

tinit

Application

Abbreviation

(3)

TLllTlS per centimetre

Turns per metre

14. Test or gauge Millimetre, length centimetre

15. Breaking load Millinewton

Newton

16. Breaking length

Kilometre

17. Tenacity Millinewton per tex

18. Twist factor or Turns Per - twist multi- centimetre X

plier square root of tex

Turns per metre x square root of tex

19. Bursting strength

Newton per square centimetre

(4)

turns/cm 1

L turns/m 1

J

mm, cm

mN

N

km Yarns

mN/tex Fibres, yarns ( individual or skeins )

turns/cm 1 x l/tex I

I i

turns/m ! -I x 2/tex I

:

N/cm2

(5)

Yarns, ropes, cordage ( as appropriate )

Fibre, yarn and fabric specimens ( as appropriate )

Fibres, delicate yarns ( indivi- dual or skeins )

Strong yarns (s;t$dual or

ropes, cordagi, fabrics

Yarns ( as appro- priate )

Fabrics

11

IS,: I093 - E98E’

S1 Chma~tdristic

.NO.

(1) (2)

20. Tear strength’

21. Pile height

22. Pile density

2%. Elastic mddulus

SP urlit ~___-A____~,

Unit Abbreviation)

P>

Millinewton, newton

(4)

mN\, N

Millimetre

Mass of pile yarn in grams per square metre per millimetre pile height

mm

g/m2/mm pile. height

Millinewton mN/tex/unit Per tex deforma- Per unit tion deformation

Applicatiun

(5)

Fabrics (a appropriate )

Carpets

Pile

Fibres, strands

carpets

yarns,

12

I§ : 1093 - 1981

( Continued frompage 2 )

Members Representing

SHRI B. R. KOWSHX Textiles Committee, Bombay SHRI C. V. PRAB~AIUIUK Khadi & Village Industries Commission, Bombay

SHRI M. V. RAMACHANURA (Alternate) SDRI S. RANGARUAN The Handicrafts and Handlooms Export

Corporation of India Ltd, Madras SENIOR EXI+XUTIV~ & SPI~:CIA~ The Tamil Nadu Handloom Weavers’

OFFICER Co-operative Society Ltd, Madras SENIOR MANAGER (PRODUCT

DEVELOYXICIYT ) ( Alternate ) SHRI T. 0. THOMAS Kerala State Handloom Weavers, Co-operative

Society Ltd, Trivandrum SHRI D. R. YADAV Ministry of Defence (DGI)

SHRI V. C. MATHUIL ( Alternate )

13

INDIAN STANDARDS

ON

HANDLOOM COTTON FABRICS

IS:

745-1975 Handloom cotton bed sheets, grey (Jiys& revision ) 749-1978 Handloom cotton dungri cloth (Jirst revision ) 750-1976 Handloom cotton lungies (JIrst revision ) 752-1955 Handloom cotton muslin, bleached 753-1955 Handloom cotton pugri cloth, bleached or dyed 755-1955 Handloom cotton malmal, bleached 756-1955 Handloom cotton dosuti, grey, scoured, bleached or dyed 757-1971 Handloom cotton lint, absorbent, bleached (first revision) 758-1975 Handloom cotton gauze, absorbent ( second reuicion ) 854-1981 Handloom cotton turkish towels and towelling cloth (first revision ) 855-1979 Handloom cotton honeycomb towels and towelling cloth (first revision) 856-1971 Handloom cotton huckaback towels (first revision) 858-1981 Handloom cotton table cloth and nipkins ( amnlgamating IS : 857-1956)

(Jirst revision ) . 859-1978 Handloom cotton dusters (Jirst revision ) 860-1956 Handloom cotton sponge cloth, grey, stribed and checked 861-1956 Handloom cotton jaconet cloth, grey, dressed 862-1956 Handloom cotton ticking cloth, grey, striped 863-1969 Handloom cotton bandage cloth (&t revision ) 864-1956 Handloom cotton light sheeting, grey

1094-1976 Handloom cotton gada cloth (Jirst revision ) 1095-1957 Handloom cotton dress material, bleached, dyed, printed, striped or checked 1096-1957 Handloom cotton holland cloth, unscoured 1097-1979 Handloom cotton mosquito netting (Jirst revision ) 1098-1957 Handloom cotton cambric, bleached 1099-1957 Handloom cotton lining cloth, dyed 1 loo-1978 Handloom cotton crepe (first revision ) 1101-1981 Handloom cotton cellular shirting (Jirst revision ) 1102-1968 Handloom buckram cloth (Jirst r&ion ) 1240-1958 Handloom cotton nainsook, bleached or dyed 1241-1958 Handloom cotton calico, bleached or dyed 1242-1975 Handloom cotton shirting (Jirst revision ) 1243-1981 Handloom cotton coating (first revision ) 1244-1958 Handloom cotton longcloth, bleached or dyed 1245-1958 Handloom cottonpyjama cloth, grey, with stripes 1246-1978 Handloom cotton curtain cloth (Jirst revision ) 1247-1958 Handloom cotton Madras check 1451-1979 Handloom cotton drills (Jirst revision) 1556-1960 Handloom cotton poplin, bleached or dyed 1579-1979 Handloom cotton twills (Jirst revision )

1814-1961 Handloom cotton mootus, striped or checked 1937-1961 Handloom cotton bleeding Madras, loomstate 1939-1975 Handloom cotton handkerchiefs (firs’ revision ) 2158-1962 Handloom viscose staple fibre lungies, striped or checked 2159-1962 Handloom viscose staple fibre shirting, bleached, dyed, striped or checked 2160-1962 Handloom viscose staple fibre coating, bleached, dyed, striped or checked 2172-1962 Handloom filament rayon saries 27 15- 1964 Handloom cloth, collar, white 6237-1971 Handloom cotton cloth for plaster of paris bandages and cut bandages 6906-1973 Requirements for colour fastness of handloom cotton textiles 8797-1978 Handloom cotton fabric for school uniforms